BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF AMARIAH BRIGrHAM, M. D., IL1A.TE SUPERINTENDENT OF THE NEW YORK STATE LUNATIC ASYLUM, UTICA, "ST. . UTICA, K Y. W. O. MoCLURE, 17 "7 GENESEE STREET. Curtiss & White, Printers, 171 Genesee Street. 1858. U32L, loo PREFACE. It will be deemed scarcely necessary, I presume, by the surviving friends and acquaintances of the late Dr. Brigham, into whose hands, principally, the following humble and imperfect, yet heart-felt tribute will fall, to say any thing by way of preface. It was prepared for the purpose of preserving a name worthy of our cherished remembrance, and a record of those labors and services which made that name deservedly distinguished. The materials for it, gathered though they were from a variety of sources, were intended and are believed to be strictly authentic. Nor can an apology be due for copying, with some degree of freedom, from his voluminous journal,—so unusual is it that the " inner life" of a man is set forth so entirely without disguise as is here done, and his mental culture, general intelligence, moral and social habits and tendencies, so unmistakably exhibited. As it is, my sole object will be gained, and the desire of my heart gratified, if it but answer the principal aim of its publication, as just suggested, and receive the approval of those for whom it was designed, and to whom it is most respectfully dedicated. E. K. H. Haetkord, May 20, 1858. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. The late Amariah Brigham was a native of New Marlboro', Berkshire County, Massachusetts, where he was born December 26th, 1798. His father was a highly respectable farmer, who died after an illness of several years, leaving a widow and six children. His estimable and eminently pious mother, regarding only the welfare of her beloved child, was induced, soon after the death of her husband, to accept the oifer of his brother, a physician of considerable reputation, living at Schoharie, N. Y., to take Amariah into his family, and educate him to his own profession. Though the youngest of four sons, and only eleven years of age, of a slender and delicate frame, and possessing a constitution by no means vigorous, he left the home of his childhood, with all its endearments, to spend, as was then supposed, the several succeeding years beneath the roof and under the guidance and direction of his paternal uncle. One short year however, only elapsed before he too followed his deceased brother, and his youthful charge was again left without a guide, without means, or other counselor than his wise and affectionate mother. He was naturally a thoughtful and self-reliant boy—made so, in part, by the circumstances of his condition, which had served to awaken and develop these qualities of his mind. This we may safely infer also from the fact, that 6 not long after his uncle's death, at an age which could not much have exceeded thirteen years, he made his way to Albany alone, and there, without a friend to assist or advise him, procured for himself a place as clerk in a bookstore, where he spent the three following years. Here he performed the round of duty which usually devolves upon boys occupying a position of this kind, but, it is said, had much leisure time, which he spent, not slothfully or in idleness, nor in the society of thoughtless or vicious companions, but in the constant reading of the books to which he had access. While his reading was, doubtless, without a definite plan, and probably quite miscellaneous, he here acquired a fondness for books, and habits of study, which ever after constituted a noticeable feature of his character. Indeed, the numerous observations which he made while abroad, relating to historical and other matters with which he was manifestly quite familiar, may, many of them, be safely referred to this, as the time when he first became conversant with them. Here, too, he also had an opportunity to acquire a knowledge of men, as well as of books, which he would not be likely to neglect; and by having no one to look up to for counsel and assistance, developed still further that confidence in himself which his destitute situation required. On leaving Albany, he returned again to New Marlboro', where his mother then resided, and there spent the four following years—occupied, at first, in the studies usually pursued by advanced pupils in our schools, and at length entering the office of Dr. E. C. Peet, of that town, as a student of medicine. It does not appear that his advantages during any part of this preparatory course, at all exceeded those that usually fall to the lot of medical students, or that he obtained 7 a diploma from any medical college. Says one of his biographers, " He spent a year in New York attending lectures," which, in the absence of other evidence may fairly be supposed to signify, that he attended during a single session or term, which at that day was regarded by the profession as sufficient to qualify a candidate to enter upon practice. Subsequently, and before commencing the active duties of professional life, he spent about a year with the late Dr. Plumb, of Canaan, Connecticut; and from a brother practitioner now of this city, but who then resided in a neighboring State, and often saw him, we learn that while his habits of study were somewhat peculiar and original, he was, nevertheless, a diligent and successful student. The period which elapsed between the time of his leaving Albany and entering upon the duties of his profession, must have been a little less than five years, all of which was spent in the pursuit of knowledge, either of a professional or general character. Having acquired a fondness for books, improved, and to some extent tested the powers of his mind, during his residence in Albany, he was, indeed, in some respects, highly favored in the privileges which he enjoyed in the quiet town in which he spent the several following years. Here was nothing to be found calculated either to distract his mind or to call off his thoughts, even temporarily, from study; while the great fact constantly stood forth fully, and sometimes, doubtless, painfully, before him, that he was to be the sole architect of his own fortune. He commenced practice, a youth somewhat short of his majority, in the town of Enfield, Mass., where he remained but two years. He removed thence to Greenfield, the shire-town of Franklin County, a large and flourishing place, lying on the Connecticut river. Of his history while at Enfield we 8 are left to conjecture; but the fact that, after so short a period of practice, he should have felt himself qualified to submit his claims to notice and support, to so searching an ordeal as that of a refined and cultivated community, and was willing to risk the results of active professional competition, shows, at least, his estimate of himself, and his confidence of success. His determined boldness stands out in still stronger relief, when we learn, that he purchased at the outset, the entire property of a practitioner then in ill health, a brother of Judge Washburn, consisting of a dwelling-house and out-buildings, horse, carriage, library, &c, the payment of which not only absorbed the savings of the previous years, but must also have involved him pecuniarily to some extent. Here that industry and system in the management of his affairs—that patience, and accuracy of observation, and soundness of judgment which characterized his after years, were exhibited and largely developed. Here, also, shone forth those genial social qualities which made him everywhere welcome, and the delight of a large circle of admiring friends. He practiced at Greenfield uninterruptedly about seven years, and it is well known that he early secured the confidence of his fellow citizens, was extensively patronized, and eminently successful. He was especially fond of surgery, and achieved considerable reputation in this branch of our art — indeed, so much that he became widely known, and was largely employed in this department. That he was during all this time a diligent student and growing man, though fully employed in the active duties of his profession, we learn in part from the fact, that he prepared and delivered a course of popular lectures on chemistry while here, at once indicating great fondness on his part for natural science, and much careful study of a branch, which it would 9 otherwise have been supposed he would most likely neglect. Besides, he began with his professional life, that most improving of professional exercises, a detailed daily history of every case he was called upon to treat —a practice certain to sharpen the powers of observation, excite to study and research, improve the reflective faculties, strengthen and mature the judgment ; while it also gives one imperceptibly, a readiness in the use of the pen, a capacity of expression, which are not the growth of a day, but which when acquired, become invaluable to the possessor. He at times, also, left temporarily the field of his active labors, ostensibly for relaxation, but in fact, that by visits to the larger cities, intercourse with their medical men, and examination of their hospitals, he might increase his stores of practical knowledge. That a young man, but twenty-nine years of age, whose purse had always been slender, —whose scanty support, for several years previous to the commencement of professional life, had been procured, in part at least, if not wholly, by teaching, during the winter months, district schools, —whose opportunities for mental improvement had been such only as are usually regarded as inferior, and even meager,— whose self-denials of every sort had been many and great, —should so soon, upon the removal of this burden from his mind and spirits, have aspired not only to high rank in his profession, but have boldly resolved to do what very few then undertook, and still fewer of these from resources of their own earning, for the purpose of improving himself professionally and otherwise, by foreign travel, exhibits to every one who reflects upon the procedure, a degree of selfreliance, intelligence, and manly courage, not often equaled. It appears, however, that it was a plan which he devised while engaged in active practice, the contemplation of B 10 which, as the obstacles to its fulfillment yielded one by one to his prolonged reflections, was a solace, doubtless, to many a dark and weary ride. He had already, in a period of seven years, paid for the place which he had purchased on commencing business at Greenfield, had steadily added to his library, lived suitably to his position, and, besides, had accumulated means sufficient, with the sale of his property, to meet the expenses incident to a voyage to Europe, which he had now decided to make, and a year's residence there. In the fulfillment of this purpose he was obliged, though most reluctantly doubtless, to leave the place in which he had spent the dawn of his manho >1, had numerous friends, and unquestionably many and tender attachments. I have regarded it as due to the object we have in view, to copy from the pages of the voluminous journal, kept by him during his entire absence, not only enough to indicate the route of his travels, and the opportunities they consequently afforded for extended and interesting observations ; but also, to give the reader a correct idea, as well of what he saw, as his method of viewing things, and to exhibit also, to some extent, his mental culture and acquirements at this time. It will be observed, I think, by those who subsequently became acquainted with Dr. B., and who may peruse these pages, that the basis of that character, which was afterwards so well illustrated in a public capacity, was fully established before he went abroad. His systematic, independent, and often original observations and descriptions, show that those qualities of mind from which they spring were already well developed and in active exercise. For example: at the commencement of his voyage, undertaken July 16th, 1828, he describes the vessel in which he sails, the number and sex of his fellow 11 passengers, the name of the captain and number of the crew, the articles of food provided at the different meals, cost of passage, &c. Often, while he graphically represents the outline, or exterior of some noble park or edifice, he also, where opportunity offers, examines and describes the several parts, and in numerous instances, after noticing some imposing structure as a whole, also describes the apartments devoted to culinary or other domestic purposes ; enumerating such articles or arrangements as struck his mind as either peculiarly adapted to their respective purposes or otherwise. This is especially true of the many hospitals which he visited in the course of his journeyings. It is further proper to remark here, —and it is an observation worthy of notice —that though his journal contains only the hastily written observations of each day, prepared for his private use, without a thought, probably, of its ever being opened to the inspection of any one besides himself, or possibly, to the glance of here and there a partial and trusted friend, I have found nothing anywhere, which did not exhibit on his part, entire purity of heart and correctness of conduct. He was manifestly controlled at this time by no strong religious scruples, and went, in whatever place he was, just where his tastes and inclinations suggested ; but never, I repeat, at any time, so far as appears, where either good taste or sound morals would have forbidden. The tour embraced travels, and a residence more or less prolonged, in England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Italy, Sicily, and Spain, and brief extracts from the record made by him while in these several countries, or a reference to it will be made. On arriving at Liverpool, among the many objects of interest which attracted his attention, was the Botanic Gar- 12 den ; and the following is his entry in reference to it. After complimenting the politeness of the keeper,—who permitted him to enter without a ticket contrary to the regulations, because he was a stranger from the United States, —he says: " There are seven hundred proprietors of this garden, which contains ten thousands distinct species of plants. It excels in plants from the tropics, which are abundant and beautiful. I noticed the banana, twenty to thirty feet high, and its trunk five or eight inches through, its leaves two and a half feet wide, and six or seven long, and very green. Also I saw the Stalitiza < Angusta, from Africa, which resembles the banana, and is very rare. I noticed* the papyrus, which the ancients used as paper. It is found five feet high, with single stem, and a top like dill. Its stalk is slender, and only an inch in diameter; the outer bark the ancients stripped off and wrote upon. It is now very green. I saw our common brake in a flower pot. It looked sickly, as though much notice and high living had disordered its digestion; while the mullen, also found here, has become so puffed out and bloated, that I hardly recognized it, having, like an over-fed alderman, grown out of all natural proportion. The garden occupies eight acres, and is intersected by numerous graveled walks lined with evergreens. There is also a pond for aquatic plants, like lilies, &c. The celebrated Eoscoe, who resides but a little way from here in the suburbs, was one of the founders of this garden, and now often visits it: also a Mr. Le Philips (I believe,) has contributed much to it. I was much gratified with a view of the garden. The keeper told me it was the best in the kingdom, and that the one in Glasgow was second to it. I offered him money which he declined." His observations at Liverpool embraced its " splendid docks," its churches and other public buildings, theatres, 13 &c. From Liverpool he went to Manchester by Chester, to which latter place he walked ; making copious notes of the character of the soil, husbandry, conversations with the people by the way, etc. He seems to have made quite a careful survey of this ancient town, and found much to interest him ; among them, the wall which surrounds the town, and the Roodie, a large beautiful meadow of eighty acres, where the celebrated Chester races are run. Of one of its churches he says : " I looked in at the neat and purely Gothic church of St. Mary's; the congregation looked like the nobility. Several ancient families are buried here, but what attracted my attention most was the graves of three witches in the yard, who were hung at Manchester Assizes, A. D. 1036. This church is near the town, on the hill, is .very ancient, and was given by Randall, second Earl of Chester, to the Monks of St. Werburgh. What good times the Monks have had round this hill! " He also gives, drawn in outline, a plan of the town, and located upon it in their relative positions, the principal objects of interest, both within and without its walls. The next object that especially called for his notice, was the splendid residence of Earl Grosvenor—Eaton Hall. His description of this place, I shall transcribe, and it must stand as a specimen of those that he left in his journal, of numerous other structures, public and private, which he visited while in England. " As the morning was fine," he says, " I concluded after breakfast, to walk to Eaton Hall, four miles. I left Chester with a feeling of thankfulness for the pleasure I had derived from a view of its old relics, and long shall I remember it. I passed over a fine stone bridge, by the mills, across the Dee, and after walking about a mile over a beautiful, level, hard road, I came to a handsome gate, and a small stone house, where a girl 14 told me, that through this gate was the way to Eaton Hall. I left the main road on the left, and entered upon the grounds attached to the residence of the Earl. There are eight or nine hundred acres all along the road, and for most of the way are beautiful flowers and low trees, and I saw some birds that appeared quite tame, and more than a dozen hare of various sizes passed me. There was some rising ground and open space occasionally, where I had a fine view of the surrounding county of Chester, its spires, etc. About a mile from the Hall, is a large stone gate, with the Earl's arms upon it, or ' dogs,' also a house. Here the shrubbery disappears, and a large field opens, inclosed with an iron railing, and in which I saw great numbers of sheep, cows, horses, and deer ; the sheep were very fat and very large, and not fine-wooled, —the cows very large. I saw forty deer, with large broad horns, and was told the Earl had eight hundred; they were small, but very fat. Near the Hall I passed through a wooden gate, and as it was but ten o'clock, and the Hall is never opened until eleven, I rang the bell of the garden gate, and the gardener came and very civilly exhibited to me his beautiful domain. The garden occupies seventy acres, and within it is a small artificial lake, with sail boats, etc. The view from the garden is very beautiful, of the Hall especially. The garden itself abounded with flowers and fruit, and appeared a paradise. Here was the large aloe plant, though it has not blossomed yet, grapes in hot houses trained against the walls, pine apples, peaches, apricots, hollyhocks, the sweet pea, etc. etc. In some parts of the garden were fragments of beautiful stones, crystals, etc., laid around to adorn the walks. The grounds employ seventy hands, often more, and the house fifty or sixty more. Near the Hall and in the garden are majestic oaks and elms, and the prospect all 15 around is beautiful—but the place wants elevation and elevated scenery—it is nearly level. The whole establishment is now in fine order, as the Earl is expected in a few days. The Hall is splendid externally, pure gothic, with elegant outhouses, the whole built of gray stone, apparently hard, and sawed. Spires and towers project from all parts of the extensive building ; the windows are large, especially those of the lower story. " But the splendor outside, is not to be compared with the magnificence, and beauty, and elegance within. Visitors first enter a large hall, where they write their names in a book. I saw many from the United States had been here. This entrance hall contains two large paintings. The floor is beautiful, of colored marble, and cost eighteen hundred guineas. The inside doors are very large, and massive, and cost one hundred guineas each. In the saloon or music room, are painted windows, by Collins of London, which cost six hundred guineas each, and also those in the dining room. The state-bed room and drawing rooms are immense, and the state-bed is superb. Here are elegant chairs that cost fifty guineas each, and fire-places that cost four thousand, and chandeliers fifteen hundred guineas. In this are some ancient paintings, —and some modern by West, —one of Cromwell dissolving Parliament, backed by a set of sturdy looking fellows ; and one of the landing of Charles II. In the dining room, are portraits of Lord and Lady Grosvenor, and of the Earls of Chester,- on the windows. I visited the Library, and saw that much of it was made up of wood painted like books, as ' Gil Bias,' ' Encyclop. Britan.' I saw, however, some real books, mostly modern, as ' Hall's South America,' ' Napoleon in Exile,' ' Scott's Novels.' All the furniture is gothic. The rooms are, many of them, hung around with elegant satin in folds, 16 and in the drawing room are all sorts of luxurious seats, Turkish beds, etc. In the library are tables made up of all the varieties of the British oak, highly polished and beautiful. Overhead, the rooms and halls preserve the Gothic style, and being gilded, look superb and heavenly. Standing at one end of the hall which runs through the building, and looking through to the other, the painted windows, chandeliers, gilded ceilings, etc., present a glorious spectacle. The Hall is said to be four hundred and fifty feet long, and with the out buildings seven hundred feet. The Earl's income is immense; notwithstanding, a teamster I met on the road, told me, he was not lenient to his tenants, but often drove the farmers of Cheshire for their rent. May our country never have such an unequal distribution of wealth as is here seen—such splendid edifices, and near by, squalid poverty to a great extent." After a gen'eral survey of Manchester, under the guidancy of a polite resident, visiting its Exchange, Post-office, Collegiate Church, Town Hall, Portico, and noted the busy industry of this great manufacturing town, of which its numerous tall chimneys constantly sending forth their immense volumes of smoke are the index, he says : " The houses are in general low, seldom over three stories, and all look old and dirty outside, and the knockers of all are japanned black. In fact, everything looks dirty and smoky, except the pretty girls; indeed, all the well dressed females here are pretty." Returning to Liverpool, he immediately passed over to Ireland, taking a steamer for Dublin. His subsequent movements, indicate his purpose to have been, to suspend temporarily at this point his travels in England, to pass through Ireland from south to north, then to visit Scotland, and return through England to London. On reaching 17 Dublin, he remarks as follows: " Much depends on the bills, how a traveler likes a place :—Liverpool I cannot like, as I had enormous bills at the Adelphi. Here, at Holmes' Commercial Hotel, I am yet much pleased. The house is immense, containing several hundred rooms, with bed, carpet, chest, etc. in each, and the rules, prices, etc., are posted in each, and everything cheap. Breakfast of coffee and roll, and two eggs, one shilling; mock turtle soup, eighteen pence ; whisky or ale, thirteen pence ; roast beef and potatoes, one shilling sixpence ; a night's lodging, one shilling sixpence; sixpence for servants; two pence per day for brushing, and same for boots." Of the many objects of interest of which he took notes while here, I refe,r only to the Mendicity House, so called, where the poor are fed. Of this he says: " Usually fifteen hundred get food here daily. They are required to work from nine o'clock, A. M., to six P. M. None are compelled to come, and all sleep elsewhere ; I saw them taking breakfast. Ninety-eight out of a hundred of them are ragged women, each having a tin dish and spoon, and receives a large lump of mashed potato, which contains a trifle of meat, or is mixed up with meat broth. It was curious to see them, seated and standing all round a hall and yard, eating this their whole diet. I saw the kitchen, where the potatos —four tons a day—are boiled in large potash kettles, and mixed up with the broth of meat in another, then mashed and carried in large wooden kegs or half barrels, to an office, where it is dealt out. I also saw in the yard, the small carts, that are sent out to beg for this institution, meat, • etc. The employment of the inmates is picking oakum, and spinning. I saw many of them spinning on a little wheel common in our country; also schools for the children of these poor; one room of boys, with slates, and c 18 man teacher, and two rooms of girls, with woman teacher. In one, they sung the multiplication table, keeping time with their newly washed hands ; I saw but few pretty ones. In another room, the girls were making lace. Young ladies of the first families, give their time and attention here, to the instruction of these children, —ministering angels, thought I. The parents here receive no clothing, but the children do ; each little girl's apron I observed, was marked ' Mendicity.' I was much pleased with the institution." He visited the Ferris Street Hospital, Steven's Hospital, Swift's Lunatic Hospital, and Royal Hospital. As at Chester, he leaves upon his journal, an outline plan of Dublin, with the relative position of the more prominent objects laid down upon it. As he passed on to Belfast, through Newry, Hillsborough, Lisbourne, etc., while charmed with the fine views, he is saddened by the extreme poverty of the people. He says: " The view is pleasing, from the extent of highly cultivated fields, interspersed with occasional hills and streams. The want of woods, howeverj is a defect, and the thousand mud cottages, with no floors, and often with no roofs, spoil all the lovely prospect." Stopping at Belfast for a short time only, though sufficient to enable him to ramble over the place, and get some idea of it, he proceeds to the Giant's Causeway. Reaching it at length, he makes a deliberate and delighted survey of it. In concluding a description of it, and an imperfeet attempt to illustrate it by a drawing, he says: " The entire Causeway presents a scene I can never forget. Sublime, yet beautiful as art; how it came I know not, but would fain believe giants built it." Returning to.Belfast, he took a steamer for Glasgow. 19 Here the Cathedral, University, and Botanic Garden attracted his notice especially. " The impression I have received here," he says, " is, that it is a business place,—considerable manufacturing, houses good, and have a smooth and fair appearance, being built of stone; but there is here a disagreeable smoke, from factory chimneys. There are many churches ; some of them look well; but the Roman Catholic, a gothic structure, fronting the Clyde, is by far the best." Leaving Glasgow, he proceeds to Dumbarton, on a tour to Loch Lommond and Lock Katrine, by Stirling to Edinburgh. With this interesting region, the copious entries in his diary, show him to have been much pleased, and also that his readings had made him beforehand, acquainted with the classic ground over which he was passing. On reaching Edinburgh, he first went to witness the fine prospect to be obtained from Carlton Hill, then with a friend to the Castle, from whence he says, he beheld the finest view he had ever seen. What he found within the wall of this remarkable fortress, it would take long to enumerate, nor is it necessary. Holyrood palace, and the old Abbey, were both visited, and their most interesting features described ; also the Royal Society House, Botanic Garden, and Herriot's Hospital for free burghers' boys. Of the last he says, " There are here an hundred and eighty boys,— take them from seven to fourteen, and teach all branches. Saw their bed rooms, dining room, gymnasium and baths, which I liked much. If the boys do not wash by six or seven o'clock, they are showered as a punishment. Some boys have brown coats and leather caps. Saw the chapel, portrait of Herriot, and in library Dwight's travels." Of his visit to the Royal Infirmary, he says: " It is four stories, with large wings. I like the external better than 20 its internal appearance. There are twenty to fifty beds in each ward, somewhat dirty, not as clean as some in Dublin, or in the United States; a little more white-wash wanted. Patient's name, age, by whom recommended, and when admitted, is on a small board at the head of each bed. I walked round it, and thought of the great Medics, who had and who now attend." Here follow the items of his bill at Barry's Hotel, which it was his custom, as appears from his diary, to record. Of this hotel he says: "I think it the best house for a family journeying I ever saw: but a traveler should go to a house that has a public room." Leaving Edinburgh for Newcastle, he passed Melrose, Jedburgh, Alenwick Castle, where he saw the Dutchess' breakfast on a table, " about as good as mine at Barry's," he says. At York, visited the Cathedral, or Minster, and heard the Dean preach. Stopped also at Newstead Abbey, which he describes, with the surrounding grounds; " also saw within, Byron's bed, a good one, gilt frame; also a sofa without a back ; his dressing-room and a portrait; besides his cup, made from a human skull, and lines on it. The skull is very dark colored, light, and artery of dura-mater very plain ; has a silver rim three-fourths of an inch broad. In the cellar I saw the stone coffin it was taken from. No one knows whose skull it was, but it was ancient. I also saw the dog's tomb, back of the Abbey, but near it; is a large, high and square monument, with sides of marble, on one of which are the lines, and also a description I never saw published, of his qualities. It is surrounded by many circular steps of free-stone—all must have cost considerable. ' He was born,' it says, ' 1803, and died 1808; was killed for madness;' but Byron never knew, never was told 21 of it." The Abbey itself is curious, its cloisters, its chapel —(now a chapel, Byron had it for a bath,) and the old wall, with huge windows over-run with ivy, on which you look from the house; nothing in England has so interested me." Passing many pleasant towns, he arrives at London, September 10th, where he spends the several following weeks. Of the many wonders which he saw in London, and of which he makes a copious record, I shall specify but few. His daily notes are evidence, both of his untiring activity, and high appreciation of the privilege which his previous industry and economy had opened to him. Among other objects, which a physician would hardly have been expected to notice, but which he visited, was the Old Bailey; at one of the sessions of the Court which sits there daily, he was present, and gives a graphic account of his visit, and of the proceedings of the tribunal. The despatch of business, the kindness and fairness, as well as the patience of the judges, forcibly struck and exceedingly pleased him. Though he visited Europe, ostensibly for the purpose of gratifying a commendable curiosity, and improving himself generally, he rarely failed to visit the Hospitals, and many other benevolent institutions which were to be found in the great cities through which he passed, or in which he sojourned. He went, more or less frequently, to all the principal Hospitals of London ; where he made himself known, was politely noticed, and on some occasions accompanied the physician having charge, in his daily round. Not long after reaching London, he makes the following entry : " Went to St. Thomas' Hospital, and then to Guy's, where I accompanied Mr. Bransby Cooper to see his patients; and as the patients of each" surgeon and physician are scattered over all the wards, mixed together, I saw them all. Thought it would be better to have each sur- 22 geon's cases together; also to have surgical and medical separate. There are many wards, and each has thirty to forty beds, which have curtains that can be pulled around —rooms are finely ventilated, and clean, though not so clean as I have seen in the United States. At the bed of each patient hang two cards, one saying, low or middle diet, &c; the other has on it the patient's name, time of admission, and in large letters that of his physician or surgeon, and under it is written the name of the house-surgeon in attendance. Why not also say what the disease is ? I think I saw an uncommon number of incurables, swelled joints, for which limbs must be amputated, noli me tangere, or lupus ; saw some suffering from vicious indulgences in garret. I notice they give iodine for tumors, also quinine, calomel, and opium, as we do. Common emetic is gr. 15 ipecac, and gr. 1 tart, antim. et potass, mixed. Was kindly admitted to the, operating room. It is quite small, quite inferior to Boston. " Saw Mr. Cooper perform lithotomy—on a little boy, only eight years old ; was but about three minutes about it; that is, from taking the knife till stone was out. He was instantly carried away; bore it well; no dressing; was tied. Mr. C. operated solely with the knife ; ran in director first through urethra. There was some delay in getting hold of stone, which was hard and rough. Mr. Cooper is nephew of Sir Astley ; appears to be blind of left eye, or has a film over it, is a man of good size ; made no fuss about operation; did not take off coat; had no artery to tie. Never use gorget here, knife only, and finger for director. Judging from Mr. C.'s looks, I think he might be a passionate or rather an obstinate man, likely to stand his antagonists of the lancet a long pull" Wherever he spent much time, he occasionally visited 23 the theatre, which always came in for a full notice upon the pages of his journal. The following is an average specimen : " In evening, went to Haymarket Theatre ; paid five shillings; pit three ; first gallery, which affords good seats here, is two shillings. There is also another gallery behind, still cheaper. The house is small, but very neat; much gilding, and good, though small, glass chandeliers; candles are also used. House, (Covent Garden, and Drury Lane, being yet closed,) is very full—pit and every part; more females than males, I think. You do not get the lower tier of boxes without engaging them beforehand, or give the door-keeper a shilling; they do not often wear bonnets below. The plays were the Foundling of Faust, Valeria, and Green eyed monster. I liked first best, though Valeria, a blind girl restored to sight, is the chief attraction. I laughed, till I ached, at the green eyed monster. A miss K. is best here ; she acted Valeria; is handsome, and speaks plain; and so do all here, not as much rant here I think, as in United States, often. Mr. C. was best male actor, though all did well. But how strange the fancy for French pieces; Valeria is French. What I most wondered at here, is the mixing up of bad with virtuous women. I saw hundreds of them in second tier, and can go below. They keep coming in and going out, flauntingly and rediculously dressed : why is it suffered that they should thus mix up with modest, respectable females ?" He often speaks of the weather while in London, in September, as very pleasant for successive days ; attended with a clearness of sky, equal to that of the United States. The exterior of St. Paul's did not much delight him. There is not a look of vastness without, " though the more I see it," he says, " the more I like it. I admire the interior ; it is vast, high, and splendid. He notices at length 24 its monuments, dome, choir, etc., etc., and remarks, "but somehow it does not to me look like a temple of God." The poverty and wretchedness which he often sees, makes a deep impression upon his mind, and on one occasion he exclaims: " But Oh, what forms of misery ! This day, a paper contains the notice of two suicides from poverty, i. e. of men out of employment. Strive to peddle, beg, etc. and often drink, I suppose —and who would not— but finally kill themselves; it is termed,from derangement, but could they receive two shillings a day for hard labor, such cases would not be. See men and women all day and night, striving to sell a few apples and canes for support; too honest to steal, too proud to beg. I pity them. How heedless great cities are of suffering. To-night, a drunken, sick or dying woman lay on door-step; every passer stopped a moment —said nothing—and passed, and forgot forever. England excels in many things; the fine country seats of the rich surpass anything in the United States; each is a paradise —but how many poor around. In fine, I find England a better country for the rich, and a worse one for the poor, than I had anticipated." His account of his visit to the House of Lords, House of Commons, and Westminster Abbey, of which he gives a drawing indicative of the position of its principal monuments, is lenghty, and afforded him much satisfaction. At the Royal College of Surgeons, he was permitted to examine the museum of John Hunter, with the additions by Sir Joseph Banks, Sir Wm. Blizard, etc. His description of such things only, as especially attracted his attention is very full, and indicates the great interest he took in beholding this wonderful exhibition, though he concludes his remarks in relation to it, with the following qualified compliment.—" A grand collection, well arranged; requiring industry, and nothing else." 25 At his first visit at St. Bartholomew's, he went the rounds of the Hospital with Mr. Lawrence, then in attendance, and gives a description of the forms of disease, and the method of treating some of those which he saw, its arrangements, etc.; also of the personal appearance, and dress of Mr. L. Here he subsequently heard Mr. Abernethy lecture; and speaks of him and his lecture, as follows: " Mr. A. came in hobbling; is lame, and appeared when he rose to leave, as if he had pain of hip. He is old and white headed, and may wear a wig, though I think not; is sixty-five ; florid complexion, and appears to be an old wit, like an old comedy actor. He was clapped, but he never heeded it, and was busy looking at his watch, and then looked up at a new bust, (of himself, I believe,) behind him. He seated himself, and began to talk, had no notes. Said he did not know what surgery was —but now, medical men concluded that all cases in which neither honor nor profit was to be gained, were surgical. He said he was of the old school —all indebted to Hunter—had made little progress before Hunter or since—and intimated that fever had local origin. Said, Take a case of compound fracture, in a few days/ever, —here many bleed, especially French; in town cannot bleed; may in country ; but be careful of that fluid ; buffy coat best indication of the need of bleeding :—allay irritation by opium in regular doses, day and night; soon sore suppurates, fever subsides, does well. But if fever again returns, then you have what you may call erysipelas if you please ; pulse uniformly fast, here give opium and cordials and bark, it will strengthen; but do not throw in the bark. Egad, it is a phrase germain to the matter, for they shovel it in. Lastly comes on delirium in bad cases, sore sloughs, granulations die away, often from disorder of the bowels, D 26 tongue becomes black and dry, and patient usually dies. Here any medical man called, would say it was typhus fever. I once amputated at this stage a compound fracture; tibia sawed oft' an ii&h ; saw granulations from both ends nearly together; but patient had diarrhoea, and all the granulations died in one night; case became typhus, artery burst, and patient was covered with blood; student said he was dead; I said, if so, no harm to amputate ; I threw his leg over side of bed, and cut off the thigh. Egad, he revived; at last got well, and was a sturdy beggar for many years. I have known many limbs taken off when patients were unconscious. It seems as if I had said enough about this, all I know, in fact. So he lectures and talks; many egads, and ohs, an so so's, eh, eh ; has much wit. I think he is amusing, but after all, is he profound ; is he not behind the young men following him ? I think likely the class he belongs to, are passing off, to be succeeded by a more learned and modest set. "Who cannot rely upon oddity or wit for reputation ? Mr. A.'s has made him." At the London University he heard Dr. Conolly's introductory lecture on medicine. " House full," he says," near eight hundred present; room good; is half circle; designed for all lectures, chemistry and all. Dr. C. was attended by the other professors, all in gowns, etc. Is of middle size; say of F. R., [Dr. B. is in the habit of comparing those whom he describes to some acquaintance whom he thinks they resemble,] very handsome ; blue eyes, darkish hair, tolerably fine head, whiskers; lisps; but is very elegant and genteel. He gave a long and good discourse; advised the students to virtuous, and even religious lives ; to persevere and give all their time to their profession; to cultivate polite literature, and avoid low pleasures. He 27 urged them to strive to become useful, and they need have no fear of failure; never knew an instance of failure after due perseverance, or of success without merit. Dr. 0. had gloves on; had many drawings, and said he should teach by them." Br. B. saw on this occasion, Sir Charles Bell, Dr. Paris, Dr. Scudamore, and had some conversation with Dr. James Johnson, and describes the personal appearance of each. He heard, and describes in a similar manner, several other of the more distinguished lecturers of the metropolis ; and on the 6th of October, leaves for France, arriving at Paris on the 8th. He thus describes the first dinner which he took at the table d'hote of the Hotel de Lille, and which cost three francs, exclusive of wine, which is from two to nine francs a bottle. " We had excellent soup, good large fish, sole, venison cut in slices, and little pieces of pork stuck in it, and some acid with it; beef, pigeons and onions, potatoes, red cabbage fried, very good, veal, fricasseed fowl, maccaroni, etc. ete.; then fine grapes, pears, cheese, small sugar-like cakes, almonds, walnuts, etc. etc.; in short, one of the best dinners I ever ate. Just as the fruit came in, three men and two women, with violins and guitars, entered, and each gave them a few sous. I was delighted; for, as it is not well to hurry at dinner, and especially immediately after, it is exceedingly pleasing to have good music while sipping wine and munching nuts. I am sure it helps digestion, by putting one into that quiet state of mind necessary for this." Everything was new, possessed the charm of novelty, and found our subject in a frame to enjoy. He at once commenced the study of the French language, which he continued uninterruptedly during his residence in Paris. He subsequently took a few lessons in drawing, and also 28 in dancing. He made an early visit to the garden of the Tuilleries, to which he again and again returned; never ceasing to admire it, and to make an exception in its favor whenever subsequently, he saw any grounds of a similar character. Of the numerous amusements, and more simple occupations of the French people, as he witnessed them in his walks and rambles, he took much notice, 1 and describes such as especially struck his fancy. Here, it is quite likely, he obtained some of those useful suggestions in regard to employments, which he afterwards so appropriately applied to the uses of the insane. After visiting the Museum of Natural History; where, as on other occasions, he was reminded of the generosity and politeness of the French, he remarks : " I can not but admire, and be thankful for the liberality, which opens all these wonders to the public." From the large volume in manuscript, which contains his notes while here, it is difficult to select. That he saw everything worth seeing, in the few months that he spent in Paris, can not be supposed; but every day was fully and well occupied, and furnished a large amount of useful information, as well as valuable material for thought and reflection in after years. Here, as elsewhere, he spent more time, at places devoted to works of art, and exhibited a stronger relish for them, than I supposed him to possess. But his frequent visits to the Louvre, and other places, where either superior pictures or statuary were to be found, leave us no room for doubt. I shall extract his description of his first visit to the Opera, or Academy of Music, which he occasionally attended, which will indicate, both his object in visiting it, and his capacity to appreciate performances of this character. " After dinner," he says: "went with friends to the Opera, 29 or Royal Academy of Music. The price is ten francs for balcony; second tier, seven; and pit, three francs twelve sous. We went into the pit; house was well tilled, and is very splendid; only one light, that one an immense chandelier over the pit; also lights in front of the orchestra. The house is very large, I judged larger than Drury or Covent Garden; has five rows of boxes. King's is very splendid, ornamented with green silk, gold, etc. All the house is extensively and beautifully gilded, and columns large; the ground, with cushions, etc., are all green. I liked it better than the red of London. The opera was the 1 Muette de Portici;' founded on the fact of the government of Naples being in possession of the lower class for eleven days, in consequence of some offense given to the daughter of one of this class, by a prince. The whole is in music, and a dumb girl acted the pantomime well. The scenery consisted of interior of gardens of palaces, in the environs of Naples. The view of the market of Naples was fine, and I presume true; men with legs bare above the knee, and only shirts and caps on, with a great coat, hung or pegged on one shoulder; all peddling fruit, fish, fowls, dancing, etc. Last, was a view of Mt. Yesuvius, exceedingly grand, more so than I ever saw. At first, the mountain appears quiet, only emitting a little smoke, and then large columns of black and white smoke ascend and descend; then comes lightning and soon flames, and lastly, the lava is seen ascending or spouting up with immense rapidity, like an upward shower of red hot metal, and runs down in streams, forming large streaks of molten flame, on the sides of the mountain; accompanied with heavy thunder, lightning, and lastly, a shower of stones and earth. In the midst of this, the stage is crowded with combatants, firing, and all appear like men of flame, from the glare thrown on them from the burning mountain. 30 " The orchestra is very large, consisting, 1 thought, of about a hundred performers. I saw eight or ten large bass viols and drums; and all make a tremendous noise. I could not like this noise, but at one time, when the vast crowd on the stage fell on their knees to give thanks for their deliverance from their enemies, the sweet music of the instruments, accompanied by hundreds of voices, all kneeling in a suppliant manner, and between the pauses—entire stillness pervading the house, seemed in fancy, like that of heaven. The dancing was extraordinary m but I do not admire modern dancing in all its parts. Some of the balances are very fine, but the whirling, and the putting out of one leg at right angles with tffe body, I cannot think graceful, though it may be difficult. I was, however, on the whole, much pleased with it. The dancers were numerous, and dressed elegantly; some in green habits, and yellow satin gowns, holding white gauze scarfs in their hands; others with red gowns, and tambourines, and all with rattles in their hands; and so many, and such a vast crowd of hundreds, all moving at once in perfect time, was admirable. Indeed, the truth of the scenery was accurate, by having vast crowds of performers, so as to fill the immense stage, and coming and going as in real life, as at market or a dance. " I was pleased with the manners of the audience—all still. In the pit, there are no women, though at the upper part of it, it is railed off, and there women are ; and indeed the lower tier of boxes is on a level with the pit; but I saw many instances of men going out of the pit, leaving a glove or handkerchief to keep their place." Among the customs prevailing at Paris, he describes that which he found existing at first class boarding houses, as follows: 31 " Wine, usually red wine, Vm ordinaire, is everywhere drank. At public houses, a card is handed to each guest, who selects the wine he prefers, and is charged extra therefor—but at my boarding house, wine at breakfast and dinner is found without separate charge—all included in two hundred francs a month. Everywhere, soup is the first dish. At Hotel de Lille, all the dishes were brought on at first, but here each one is separate, and always dessert. Here also, each one is furnished with a napkin, i. e. a white towel-like —some paving a band or mark for them —and all roll them up so as to know them, and have them again. All have four-tined silver forks, and attention to wiping knives at each change of plates is not as strict as in our country ; —though it is always done if you indicate that it is desired —but changes of plates are more frequent. Drinking of healths I have never known practised, and although all are polite at table, none are foppishly or ridiculously so. Dinner is the only meal we have together; breakfast being taken in our bed-rooms, sitting-rooms, or at a cafe. If tea or coffee is wanted after dinner, go to the cafe for them. Usually, but two meals are taken daily. Here, I rise at eight o'clock, have my coffee or breakfast at nine; which consists of a little tin-shaving-cup-like of hot coffee, a large earthen cup of boiling hot milk, two small rolls of bread, butter and salt; the salt is necessary on account of the freshness of the butter. A servant fetches it all in on a server, and carries it away, and I remain in my room till twelve or after; then ramble until two, three, or five, and dine at about half past five, or six o'clock, and take nothing else, unless coffee at a cafe. Bedroom is well furnished; each has a bureau, table, good chairs, and fireplace ; beds very good, though not as lavishly supplied with pillows as the English; and every room has from two to four mirrors, four or five feet square." 32 Of the numerous public buildings noticed and described while in Paris, I shall give but a single example, that of the Palace at St. Cloud, as follows: "St. Cloud is six miles from Paris, formerly the favorite residence of Napoleon, and now the summer one of the present Royal family. "We passed along the Tuilleries, and also through the immense Triumphal Arch de l'Etoile, and then through the wood of Boulogne, to the village of that name; then across a bridge of the Seine, into the village of St. Cloud, and the Palace, which stands upon a hill, rising above the village, and looking towards Paris. Here a large group were waiting, and soon a servant appeared with keys, and conducted us over the Palace, explaining each room, pictures, etc. The Palace consists of a front, and wings; each side as large as the front, extending out in front of it, thus leaving an area before the middle front. We entered the middle front through a hall, and up a broad flight of stairs, exceedingly rich and magnificent, to the left, into the second story, into a splendid ante-chamber. From here we went into the first saloon, i. e., saloon of Mars, in which the painted ceilings are very fine, and fine large Ionic columns. From this, we went into the gallery of Apollo—the largest room we saw—occupying most of this wing of the building. It is most splendidly furnished, ceilings finely painted, and each side lined with pictures of the seasons; and over the windows are fruits painted, and there are some immense porcelain vases, with two bronze boys crawling over the brim; many bass-reliefs, much gilding, some curiosities, such as a bronze horse with Henry (king) on it, small —and small bronze Laocoon and a Centaur, Greek, etc. From this, we went into the saloon of Diana, (smaller,) but contains elegant furniture; paintings, etc. From here we returned, and went through the front rooms in the front 33 part, —consisting of billiard room, with table and suites of rooms, elegantly furnished with time pieces by Sappant, and Robin, and the curtains of rich silk, which cost immense sums. From these rooms, we went into those of the right wing, through several not very richly furnished, for the Dauphiness ; I was surprised at it—her bed though was rich, and a large looking-glass back of it. Then her toilette was fine, and all the rooms of hers neat, but not rich. Turning round, and going back behind these, through the Dauphin's rooms, which are very richly furnished, rich bed, paintings, (one of a tiger strangled by a snake, fine,) sofas, billiards, etc., we went into the back rooms, forming the rear of the front, in which is the King's bed, —a small cot —his library,—a good collection. I took up a volume of Segur's Memoirs on the table. The rooms are grandly furnished, two having large portraits in them. I noticed one of Marquis D'Elbe covered with blood; Pichegru, Moreau, Cadoudal, etc. etc. It seemed as if they consisted mostly of the traitors to Napoleon. From here, we came round to where we entered, and left. Thus we saw only the second story, and indeed in this, a suite of rooms behind the saloon of Mars and Apollo, we did not see. From here, we ascended the hill, back of the gardens, from which is the best ,view I ever saw: all Paris and its environs; the Seine, St. Cloud, etc., lie before you. We rambled through the garden —some fine resting houses, and elegant little carriage for young Duke of Bordeaux —then we examined the water-spouts, and rambled through the woods, down into the thickets, where huge trees, statues and fountains, make an enchanting scene. We came out at the foot of the hill by an artificial cascade, —the water falling from one basin into another, —while hundreds of fountains playing on its top, bottom, sides, etc., dogs, snakes, men, E 34 etc., etc., spouting forth water, make a pleasing and a wonderful sight. The trees are mostly elm, chestnut, (horse,) ash, etc. I saw immensely large horse chestnut trees, as large as any elms, and a grand row of large elms. Indeed, it is a beautiful residence, combining all of the beautiful and luxurious in art, with the wildness and beauty of nature. I examined it with much attention as the loved residence of Napoleon. The floors are all of oak in small bits, laid in diamond form, as is usual here, with all floors that are not stone or brick." A visit which he made to Pere la Chaise, and thus describes, will repay perusal: "The grounds gradually rise from where you enter, until you reach a height that overlooks Paris. On this high ground, the most noted are buried. On entering, the Jews' burial ground is on the right; and the public graves,i. e. for common people, on the le/t; (there the bodies are removed in a few years;) Abelard and Heloise are buried on the right, near the Jews' burial ground, in a gothic, open building, very neat and good, chaste, etc. The Marshals appear to be near each other, i. e., Lefebvre, Marshal Davoust, Massena, and near is Ney; Massena, I think, has best monument. It is a high, square, marble column, and thus lettered, in succession, beginning at the top; Rivoli—Zurich—Genes—Essling—Massena, mort 4th April 1817, and nothing more. Talma is buried near, but has no monument yet; Ney is buried near, but has no monument. Ney, is cut with a penknife, coarsely, on the stone over him, and a large, stout iron railing surrounds him; many people were around his grave. Gen. Foy is buried west of Ney some distance, a small tablet for the present, but an immense number of wreaths are thrown in upon his grave. The beautiful monuments are very numerous, covering acres; and all among 35 the cypresses and other trees, forming a complete wood, about ten or twenty feet high, and all evergreen. Almost every grave has a monument; —some are large, almost houses, and painted glass windows—others fine columns; others canopy with fine supports; such is that to Countess DemidofF, of Russia—most superb monument here. Many have round columns, some gilded, most of them are of Paris stone; some of marble, as Massena's; some granite; some black; some have cloth coverings, being made of frail materials, or have images under the canopy. To-day, is the F6te des morts—the day when kindred and friends resort here, to bedeck the tombs of their deceased : for a half mile before I reached Pere la Chaise, I saw many women, engaged in making wreaths and crosses of flowers, by sewing flowers, both natural and artificial, on to hoops, and selling them to visitants, and almost every grave had some; Gen. Foy's, many. Some have hooks in the stone to hang them on; others have glasses attached to the stone to hold them; some have images holding flowers and fruit. Some graves have only crosses. I saw here many priests; went into the small chapel; some giving money; some praying by graves, etc. In fine, I never before saw any thing so properly contrived for a cemetery —the rising ground, and the evergreens are very appropriate—and how delightful, or rather, what a soothing pleasure must it give friends, here to resort, and, as I see hundreds to-day, decorate the tombs of their beloved but departed friends; I should, I think, do so myself, had I any friends here interred: I shall visit it again." Early in November, he began attendance upon lectures at the School of Medicine; his entry Nov. 5th, being, "Got my tickets; heard Thenard; is about forty-five, good size, speaks slow, sits while lecturing." His diary indicates, 36 that he attended lectures regularly, either here or elsewhere, though he did not take copious notes. It may reasonably be doubted, whether he understood the language as spoken, sufficiently well to derive that amount of benefit from lectures, that a more perfect acquaintance with it would have enabled him to acquire. He witnessed many operations,—describes them, also the subsequent treatment. He visited several, if*not all the principal Hospitals; recording their internal arrangements, etc., etc., as in London. Some of his entries I shall quote. With a friend he called upon Magendie. " M. lives in good style ; rooms carpeted, paintings, engraving etc.; is not married, is from thirty-five to forty, speaks English tolerably, rather short, and stout, has round head, forehead not high but broad ; appears amiable, and undoubtedly is so ; talked about cir - culation of his books in the United States, invited me to visit insane hospital at eight o'clock, A. M.' a Of a visit to Hotel Dieu he thus speaks : " Wards very large, some two hundred feet long and fifty feet wide, three rows of beds; mostly, but not all, iron bedsteads ; brick floors, arched roof, high, light and airy; places to boil water, etc., in each ward, shelf at head of bed for patient's cup, and a note of time of admission. Operating room small and dirty ; kitchen dark, but neat; also pharmaceutical room; use copper boilers, all look neat. All rooms warmed by large earthen stoves with copper pipes; beds have white curtains. Saw many sick, especially women; and some of the Sisters, with long flowing bonnets, waiting upon them. In the wards, saw bust of Charles X, and monuments to Desault and Bichat. At the Anatomical museum, found many dry preparations, also casts of diseased parts; some paintings of disease, and many fine wax preparations. Among others, he heard Roux lecture 37 on surgical pathology. "He spoke very fast, and without notes, to some three or four hundred students, in a room that would accommodate twelve hundred. Many students were dirty, and poorly clad; some took notes." He also heard Orfila address a crowded audience. He is from thirty-five to forty, middle size, genteel, dark hair, but a strip of baldness across his head; has a retreating forehead; said to be a Spaniard, and to have hesitated long, whether to be a doctor or a stage player." On one occasion, he followed M. Dupuytren, and one hundred or more students, in his round at the Hotel Dieu. He says: " M. D. appears well, rather rough, and thorough going, but says, 1 bon jour' to all sick; little of the French manner ; gave good attention to all the wants of the sick, by leaning forward his head, so that they could whisper their secrets. He is about fifty, stout, gray, bullet-head, has white sheet for apron, looks like -, of Canaan Ct. After visiting the sick, went into the operating room, and lectured at his ease, sitting, on lumbar abscess, aneurisms, etc., cases they had just seen." Having heard M. Guizot, Professor of Modern History, lecture at the Sorbonne, he says: " M. G-. appears to be very popular, and was long and loudly cheered when he entered; he is small and middle aged. He lectured in the large and elegant room of the Sorbonne. In this room are four full-sized casts ; two of them of Corneille and Racine; about twenty busts, of Homer, Cicero, etc.; and twenty sitting portraits of distinguished modern scientific men— Buffon, Leibnitz, Newton, Le Grange, Lavoisier ; —it is the finest lecture room I have ever seen, and was crowded." At a visit to the National Institute, he happened to witness a sitting of the Academy of Sciences; consisting of sixty-five members, to which are to be added, a hundred 38 corresponding members. Nearly all the members were present, so that he was enabled to see them, and notice the proceedings. Of Cuvier, he says, " He is a large, healthy looking man, wears a high shirt collar; with long gray hair; large, long nose, but on the whole, a good countenance. He is from fifty-five to sixty years old, vigorous, and will weigh two hundred and twenty-five pounds." After a similar notice of several other members, he remarks: " I should say, that here the doctrine of temperaments and craniology must be put to flight, for there are forms and heads of all kinds, and all equally great men. I should say, one-third are very large, fleshy men; onethird small and short, below middle size; and one-third, tall, and very slim men. I also noticed some singular foreheads, exceedingly retreating. A distinguished engineer has a retreating forehead, by high back part. Cuvier has a very large head, but others small ones. " Indeed, Cruveilhier says, 4 there is no more in Gall's bumps than in lines on hand; but much in the general notion that a good forehead indicates intellect—shows many thick skulls, and those which on the inside had depressions not indicated by bumps on the outside.'" He took notes as above, of several other distinguished men and lecturers, and for some three months, attended with regularity, several lectures daily. Of his visit to Versailles, Trianon, etc., his description is more full than that of St. Cloud. In conclusion, he says: "After a day spent in viewing the wonders presented by the former, I have never seen and never expect to see so splendid a place as Versailles, such a useless display of wealth or waste of it—and after all it is not very grand; but astonishing, in view of the labor spent upon it, and its cost. I do not admire it as much as St. Cloudj and do not wonder that Napoleon chose the latter." 39 His habits while in Paris, as might have been anticipated, were eminently social; his evenings, many of them, perhaps a majority, having been spent in society. He gives a detailed description of the etiquette which was observed at social gatherings, or parties, at which he was present; and of a soiree, given by the Marquis De Lafayette, to which he was invited, says: " In the evening went to the Marquis De Lafayette's Soiree. The old General looks younger and more fleshy in the face than when in the United States. His sister is with him, and his son-in-law and family, live in same street. On entering, he took me by both my hands, and several times inquired about the United States; talked of Presidency; was anxious to hear who formed the new cabinet; heard, he said, that Galatin would be one. " The General's house contained many rooms, but only three for company. These were not large, and none ornamented, except his bed-room, which has a few ornaments ; such as an engraving of the Battle of Bunker Hill, —Death of Gen. Montgomery,—Washington's Farewell Address, — Declaration of Independence; and the same on parchment, voted him in '24, —a clock with bust of Gen. Washington, —French Declaration of Rights of Man, —a silver vase given him by the midshipmen of the Brandywine,—Explanation of Constitution of the United States. His bed, —small and neat —with good chairs and sofas, is in this room. There was no music, dancing, or gaming ; refreshments consisted of tea, lemonade, cake. Many Americans I saw there, also MM. Villmain and Guizot. I understood that Lafayette had been to court but once since the return of the king. There were many ladies present, and I again saw his grand daughters,—dressed neatly, immense muslin sleeves with blue silk gowns, hair dressed high, but no head ornaments." 40 Just before leaving Paris, he went to visit the school for the deaf and dumb; an account of which will close my observations here. " It is," he remarks, " in a large building; was founded by Abbe de 1' Epee, in 1760, has had many directors, among whom the Abbe Siccard was the most useful, as he made great improvements. He died in 1822. Clerc w*as his pupil. There was to-day, a large assemblage of men and women; and first, a man habited somewhat as a priest, made an address; saying that ancient Greece and Rome had nothing to compare with it. There were seen only about a dozen scholars, and two at a time were examined. Their dress is dark, with blue cuffs and collars, and metal buttons; except one most advanced, who was dressed as others. First, two young ones examined; they wrote on a large black board, what he made signs for; (all wrote fast,) he made signs of beasts,-cat, dog, etc. Then others were exercised with adjectives added. I see they have signs for these things ; do not spell them; then others answered questions that were written for them by the company of visitors ; such as, What is honor ? glory ? roguery ? hypocrisy ? etc. All, all, I thought answered very well, without hesitating. I believe the best had been there four years; the crowd clapped them. I thought this very unnecessary toward the deaf and dumb, and saw they manifested very little sensibility to this kind of applause. I was most surprised at the readiness with which they wrote and comprehended, and was affected by this proof of the perfection to which this system of instruction is carried; all wrote well, and appeared as bright looking boys as I ever saw, and no appearance of being deaf and dumb. They seemed to have acquired a perfectability of sight. I saw in the ante-chamber things which they made; they were pretty articles in wood, some turned, looking-glasses, boxes, etc., etc., all very neat indeed." 41 He left for Lyons, Feb. 18th, 1829, after a residence of four months in the capital of France. His copious notes taken by the way, show that he was still observant of what was going on around him. Though early in the season, the people of the agricultural districts had already commenced preparations for the ensuing crops. Men and women were busily engaged in clearing up the fields, and an opportunity was afforded of learning something of the character of the soil, people, etc. The brief occasional stops of the diligence, enabled him to survey many little villages through which they passed; an opportunity, which his journal shows, he did not fail to improve. Though he spent but little time at Lyons, it was sufficiently long, to enable him to ramble about the place, and to visit, among other things, its hospital and museum : the latter containing pictures, antiquities, specimens in natural history, etc. " We saw," he says " several Professors in the different rooms of the building, giving lectures, —one on chemistry, another on drawing, free to all who wished to be present, and the rooms were well filled." Leaving Lyons for Geneva, he was soon traveling among the still snow-clad mountains of Italy, and a people suffering from a disease which he was for the first time to behold. Of that portion of his journey where goitre and cretinism seem to be indigenous, he says : "The route all day, since leaving Chambray, has been along the banks of small brooks, through narrow valleys, bounded on either side by mighty mountains of rock. These valleys appear warm, produce wine, grain, &c, and the mountains are frequently cultivated for a considerable distance up their sides. I see many huts here—small, made of stone, and roofs covered with straw. All day I have met people with goitres ; onehalf I saw are so; and many cretins—rickety-looking chil- F 42 dren, with broad heads, sometimes projecting foreheads, and eyes nearly closed, breast bones projecting, and sometimes lame. Some came to the diligence to beg —always smiling and showing their goitres—their voices sounding horribly, as if they spoke through throats ulcerated and without palates. I saw some goitres hanging down half a foot—three or more on one person—and observed that it was not always the thyroid gland that was enlarged, but others, above and below. All the people of the valleys that I have seen, are under size, have an old look, and are generally clad in coarse, white woolen clothes —the women and children all wearing caps. I never saw so great a pro - portion of children, especially girls—all dirty, but generally healthy, though there are many exceptions, some being pale and bloodless. I was much interested in examining these wretched specimens of the human race." Not many miles beyond, and while in the valley of the Air, he says: " I can see there have been many marshes, which the construction of this new road has mostly drained; though there are yet some exceptions where the brook spreads out to a great extent, leaving, in a dry time, a barren track of nothing but pebbles and sand. It is said that this road, by draining the marshes, has exterminated goitres and cretinism, which, I think, may be in a great measure true." Passing over Mount Cenis, and along charming vallies, containing numerous little villages, he at length arrives at Turin. After a general survey of the place, visiting the Cabinet of Natural History, the Eoyal Palace, several churches, the theatre, which he thought superior to the Royal Opera of Paris; he says: " I think it must be a lovely place in summer; situated in a charming valley, surrounded by mountain scenery, and fine streets, or rather shaded walks, delightful promenades, etc. But I see too 43 many soldiers and priests, to take away the hard earned means of the industrious. There must, however, be much wealth here, as I see many, a very great proportion of welldressed men, especially young men, perhaps students." Leaving Turin, a ride of twenty-four hours over the Appenines brought him to Genoa. " I was not so much struck," he says, " by the magnificence of Genoa, as I expected to be ; as it does not look, indeed, is not, large; but some of the palaces, and they are numerous, have an external appearance of magnificence, greatness, like residences of kings, that I have never noticed in any buildings I have yet seen." After a visit to several of the churches, the paintings and statuary in which he describes; the University, King's Palace, etc., he goes to the Hospitals. Of that for Incurables, he says: " It is a noble institution, and has the look of being old, as it is embellished with many statues of its benefactors, that look old and black. The number of inmates is between eight and nine hundred, I think. The bedsteads are of iron, but without curtains or posts for them. The rooms are spacious, tolerably well aired and clean, for an old house. I noticed most of the Incurables were deformed, maimed men, women and children; also maniacs. These last interested me much. I was surprised to see them all—that is, all the crazy men—in one room, and without any partitions; most of them had strong chains, fastening them to their beds; and I saw some in women's apartment, where they were eating breakfast of lettuce and oil, I thought. But oh, the fury and noise, — probably some excited by my entering. Some were hallooing, some laughing, some eating and screaming like fiends ; some beckoned to me with fury, others with smiles. In fact, I .never had so perfect an idea of Bedlam, as in these rooms; there are from fifty to a hundred crazy peo- 44 pie. I think it is very wrong that all should be thus together, as their beds joined, and nothing intervened. The kitchen and apothecary establishment looked well, and spacious. " The great Hospital for Sick and Foundlings, had six hundred men, and eight hundred women, sick in it. The building is immense, looks newish, and has many statues. Its rooms are high, well aired, and tolerably neat, with brick floors. The bedsteads are of iron, but low, and no curtains, except for a few who have just been operated on. The beds are arranged in four rows in one hall; two rows on a side, thus leaving a great space in the middle, which renders the hall supportable, and better than 2A, Lyons, though I think bedsteads here not as good as at Paris. The apothecary's apartment is large, neat and good; but kitchen small, and did not look very neat. I was pleased to see in some few instances, a history of the case written out, and put above the patient, but I did not often see it. I saw the operating room; not very well lighted; but as well as Hotel Dieu, at Paris. The Museum of Anatomy was very small, consisting only of a few skeletons and preparations. On the whole, I liked this spacious and well aired hospital, founded by Bartholemo Bosco, whose statue is here." From the Carnival, which was in full activity during the days he stopped here, he says, " I derived no pleasure, and cannot perceive that others did." On leaving Genoa, he next proceeded to Pisa, on his way to Florence. This part of Italy abounds in olives, oranges, and lemons, as well as the vine; the road for some distance being lined with trees of the one kind or the other. I was surprised to see olive trees high up the mountain, in some instances on the very pinnacle of the 45 Appenines; whence probably Noah's dove plucked her leaf or branch. I think both olives and raisins might be cultivated successfully in the United States, were it not that labor is so high." Speaking of the many showy villages they passed, he says : " What is shameful and surprising is, that these villages are more crowded than cities, i. e., the houses are more compactly built; streets exceedingly narrow, and often not clean." They stopped at Pisa, long enough to see the Leaning Tower, Campo Santo, Baptistery, Duomo, and Hospital, all situated near each other, and near the outskirts, instead of the central part of the town. A plan of all, with a description of each, is found in his journal. Of the Hospital, he says : " It is large, and the wards I visited, I liked; large, long, and very broad, and had but one row of beds each side; thus leaving a great empty space for air. I did not like the bedsteads, they were like iron cot bedsteads somewhat, and had no upward projecting posts." Judging from his own observations of the climate, he remarks: " I think I shall never advise consumptive persons to come to any part of Europe I have yet seen, for the sake of a warm climate in winter." An early visit after reaching Florence, was made to the Royal Gallery. Of the building itself, and its several parts, with their precious contents, he gives a lengthy description. I shall, however, only transcribe from his notes a part of his description of the paintings, which he saw on his visit to the Palazzo Pitti, or Royal residence. After passing through, several family apartments, naming and describing such articles as especially attracted his notice, he proceeds to the rooms —six in number—occupied by paintings. " There are here about two hundred, and all have large and elegant frames; among the rest I 46 noticed some fine, large landscapes, by S. Rosa; one as fine as Claude Loraine's, though different. C. L. takes his on a warm sunset; but S. Rosa as if in the cold season; he also excels in rocks. I saw an awful battle-piece of his here, in which I felt the agony of some of the wounded. I was surprised to see two "landscapes of Reubens'; they were excellent, soft, green, —and pity he had not confined himself to such. I think Our Saviour, dead —and St. John— the Madonna, —and Mary Magdalen, by Fra Bartolemeo, very excellent. St. Mark by same, is good, but colossal— hence unnatural. The Fates, by M. Angelo, ugly looking; a child, i. e. head and face, by Corregio, laughing, and shaded pale and blue, is very good. I saw here some of the stiff paintings of Peitro Perugino,—well painted but stiff. He was Raphael's master, and Raphael's first are like P. P.'s school, his second style is more free ; his last, such as one here, and a few others, are perhaps, best in the world. His Madonna Delia Seggiola, in his third and best style, is perfect. The painting is small, round, —say three feet in diameter, has a large frame, and glass case. The painting is but little cracked, as varnished ones are, and looks quite new. I think I never saw any thing so perfect, so lovely. We gazed long at it, —left it, and returned, —and finally parted with great regret. The Madonna is seated, looks young, Grecian, a slightly colored cheek, auburn hair, wears a handkerchief turban, a shawl, red sleeves and gown, and blue petticoat—is dressed simply. Jesus, from six to twelve months old, is seated in her lap, with his legs bare, and she presses him gently to her, and inclines her head towards him. St. John is seen standing by her lap, on the side opposite the spectator; leaning against her, his headland hands only being seen. He holds a small crucifix, and his hands are crossed as if in prayer; while with 47 a loving, adoring look he is surveying Jesus. 1 think his countenance —a boy two years old, —is most beautiful. The Madonna herself, is looking towards the spectator, and it seems as if her eyes, and the parts about them, were actually flesh and blood. Jesus is looking, not at any particular thing, but has a reflective expression. I think it is all perfect : the best parts, (if there are any not best,) is the Madonna's sweet, young, happy face; her shawl also is exact. Jesus' face and hair especially, are exact and lovely, and also his feet; then St. John's face and hands— but I have already described all. I never saw any thing in painting to be compared with it. There are others here of Raphael's ; and in tine, it is a grand collection." In regard to statuary, his description of the Venus de Medici must suffice. "I think all below the head and neck perfect,—but the more perfect the lower down, — nothing can be finer than the lower limbs from the knee down. But all is delicate, —head and neck too much so, — indeed, head and face, are at least, not more than twothirds large enough. She must have been without much intellect. The statue is fine, very smooth, and white marble, but little discolored. She is tallish, and delicate; rests on the left foot her principal weight, and the right knee is, of course, a little bent. The legs unite about one half the way from the knee upwards, breasts middling large, high, prominent; left hand is crossed low down, and right hand crosses her breast; though both, two or three inches from her body. Her hair is in curls around her head, and little of it. Her back is exceedingly beautiful and perfect; no shoulder-blades; feet and ancles plump, round, small, and perfect; in fine, I loved to gaze on this almost perfect beauty. No thought, but of delicacy, love and purity, can be entertained when gaizng on her. The great beauty of 48 it is delicacy,—not slenderness, —but exact and lovely proportion. No muscle is seen as if acting; all is round and plump; if any fault, it is, that the thighs are too short, and too much about the hips, though I suspect I am mistaken." In a note, he says : u Long after having seen the above, I can recall its loveliness, and can say that this is probably the most perfect specimen of ideal beauty extant." The description of his visits to the Library of MSS., to the Museum of Natural History, (containing the most wonderful representations in wax, of the different parts of the human body,) Hospital, Cathedral, etc., are full and interesting. From Florence he goes to Rome, which he reaches after a five days' journey. Stopping a few hours at Siena, he makes a hasty survey of the place, and visits its Hospital, of which he says: " It is very neat; large rooms and fine beds; not too thick. Posts of beds four feet high, of iron, with brass knobs; also shelf, or foot piece, and a notch in the wall, at the head of the bed for shelf; also a large board, a foot and a half square, at the head of each bed, relating to the case, history, treatment, and also meteorological observations. All this I admired, and thought I had never seen any thing of the kind better." Immediately after breakfast, on his first morning after arriving at Rome, he went to see the Pantheon, and St. Peter's. "I must confess," he says, "neither quite answered my expectations, the Pantheon especially. I can not think it superior to Bourse, or rather to Palace Louvre, at Paris. St. Peter's is large and elegant, but too splendid, too grand and majestic. Had it been plain Doric, and less ornamented, I think it would have looked better." Though his time was fully occupied while at Rome, as his many references to, and descriptions of numerous 49 objects and places of interest attest, I shall only copy the notes of his visit to the Vatican, which will sufficiently illustrate my purpose. " At one o'clock went to the Vatican, where I saw so much, that I was confounded and lost in the immensity of the curiosities there. Here indeed is now ancient Rome, and perhaps I might add, Greece and Egypt. Some think the staircase at the Vatican, or that at the Sistine chapel, the finest in Europe. I do not think it so grand as some in France ; those for example, at the Palace Luxembourg, St. Cloud, Louvre, or Tuilleries. " I visited the rooms containing Raphael's Frescos, but was not greatly struck with their beauty, and had not time to examine them. They are large, and no doubt good. From here I went to a story above, and saw an admirable, full length portrait of George IV, of England, by Sir T. Lawrence. He is in full dress, is tall, and less fleshy than I thought he really was ; has blue eyes, and is good looking. The ftrst room contains old paintings, not interesting to me. Second room is best; here is a small painting, quite good, by Paul Potter; the Madonna, etc. by Titian ; Communion of San Girolomo, by Dominiclrino, and Raphael's Transfiguration. These three are all large, say ten or twelve feet high, perhaps more, and six, to eight or ten broad. Titian's is good ; D.'s better; and R.'s best. That of D.'s is very fine, especially the apparently dying old saint- But Raphael exceeds all praise for coloring,— it is on board, not on canvass. There are twenty-six figures in it, and but two or three groups." He attempts to represent the relative position of the figures and groups, and then proceeds : " It is indeed perfect, if we except the two figures on each side of Christ. Christ is well represented, unless he should have been paler. The lights, the coloring, are superb; as fresh as of to-day. I have seen better G 50 countenances of Christ; but as a whole, this is superior to any I ever saw. Christ, and Moses and Elias, are in the air; the back ground of trees, mountains and village, with the setting sun, are line. If possible, the lower group should have had the appearance of being further removed from the group on the Mount. Here also, is Raphael's Madonna de Foligno, consisting of seven figures, I think, very fine. The Madonna and Child are neither of them as good as his at Florence ; the other figures are good, especially the boy-angel. It has, however, a tinge of the Perugino school; i. e., precision, stiffness. The Crucifixion of St. Peter is very good. The Communion of San Girolomo, by Dominichino is very excellent and impressive; especially the old saint. After looking at the paintings, which, though few, are choice, I visited the Museo Chiaramonti, or rooms of Statuary : in comparison with which all others together I ever saw, dwindled to nothing in extent and number." Of the Belvidere Apollo, he says: " It is exquisitely fine, light and beautiful; if any thing, too tall for its other proportions. It is the finest man I ever saw ; young, say twenty-five. Its airy tread is its great beauty." Leaving Rome, he proceeds through a country abounding in mighty monuments of the past, as well as in charming scenery, to Naples. Though he describes many objects of interest which he passed on the way, I shall only refer to the Maddalena, a Lunatic Asylum, situated between Capua and Naples, and founded by Marat. He remarks : " It is spacious, and has a large garden and church attached to it. It contains about five hundred patients, who are well attended, and treated with great gentleness and indulgence ; each paying about fifteen dollars a month, which defrays all expenses. I noticed a singular, yet pleasing arrangement —outside, the windows look as though they 51 were filled with flower pots containing beautiful flowers; but on examination, I found that the iron grates had thus been made and painted, in order to give a pleaing appearance to the eye. The contrast between this, and the Asylum I had just seen at Genoa, was great and striking. Here, they are all comfortable and cleanly, and well attended; while there, they were all confined in one room, each chained to his bed; the ravings of one exciting others, so that when I entered, the shouting, swearing, and attempts to break their chains, for a moment frightened me. I cannot believe another such horrid Bedlam exists on earth. Beaching Naples at length, he was soon prepared to study the many objects of intense interest which the city itself, and its neighborhood, offer to the notice of the traveler. An unexpected detention, prolonged his stay for several weeks beyond the time which he intended to spend here, enabling him twice to visit, and deliberately survey the long buried city of Pompeii. He visited Vesuvius also twice, and Herculaneum. The relics of the firstnamed city, as all know, are numerous; and even then, had been collected and well arranged under the auspices of the government. These, he saw, again and again;— enumerated the several classes into which they were divided, and described many of them with considerable minuteness. From the notes of his visits to these remarkable places, and his observations, I propose to extract a few sentences. " One of the many attractive things in Naples, is the Public Garden. It is of great extent, bounded on one of its sides by the Bay, and is ornamented with trees of luxuriant growth, shrubs, flowers, fountains, statuary, and surrounded by an iron fence. It equals the Elysian Fields of Virgil, and is surpassed in nothing I have yet seen, excepting the garden of the Tuilleries at Paris. 52 " On entering Pompeii," he says, in describing his first visit, "there is nothing to remind one that it has ever been a buried city. I believe a person might walk through it without a thought of any thing but an earthquake which had broken down the houses ; so completely are the rooms cleared from ashes, lava and sand. The houses all join,— are very small, and most of them but one story. There are few rooms exceeding ten or twelve feet square ; floors all mosaic work, of a coarse kind—colored glass or stones, laid in figures resembling carpets. The public edifices, theatres, temples, and forum, appear to have been spacious and elegant." After a general survey of the place, he withdrew to a rising ground which overlooked the ruins, and, as he says," was especially struck by the evidence surrounding him, of the trifling impression which this awful calamity has made upon the succeeding generations. On the very track of the lava, sand and ashes, that overwhelmed Pompeii, are now elegant buildings, and careless inhabitants ; living several miles nearer the crater than was Pompeii. Yet it has not ceased to burn, and is as threatening now, as it was a little while before the eruption." "The contents of the several apartments in which the relics, brought from the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum are deposited, contain the bones of those who lived eighteen hundred years ago; still with rings of gold on their fingers, and clasps and chains of gold upon their limbs and necks, their hands still clenched upon golden purses of coin. One female skeleton is here, with the lava that surrounded it; the flesh is gone, but the lava retains the impress of