THE 
Country Houfewife 
AND 
LADY’s DIRECTOR. 
IN THE 
Management of a HOUSE, anil the 
Delights and Profits of a FARM. 
.CONTAINING, 
Instructions for managing the Brew-Houfe, 
and Malt-Liquors in the Cellar 5 the Making of 
TVines of all Sorts. 
Di rect 10ns for the Dairy, in the Improve- 
ment of Butter and Cheefe upon the world of 
Soils •, the Feeding and Making of Brawn 5 the 
ordering of Fiji), Fowl, Herbs, Roots, and all o- 
ther ufeful Branches belonging to a Country 
Seat, in the moil elegant Manner for the Table. 
Practical OBSERV A.TION S concerning DI- 
STILLING} with the belt Method of making 
Ketchup, and many other curious and durable Sauces. 
The Whole diftributed in their proper Months, freas ph#- 
Beginning to the End of the Year, 
With particular R E M ARKS relating to or 
Kilning of S AF FROM. 
H-..- 
By K'B R A DLEY, M^ra rv 
Profe(Tor of Botany in the Unlverfity of 
and F. R. S. 
Printed by y. Watts, and fold oppofite the 7Vat ch-loufe 
the North-fide of College-Green, and by R. Norris, hi 
EJfeo-Jtreet, and William Smith, in D ante s-Jl rest. 
I) U B L I N: TO THE 
Lady Wager, 
ConsoFvT to the Right Honourable 
Sir Charles Wager, 
One of the Lords Commiflioners 
of the Admiralty, 
AND 
One of His Majesty’s Moft Honourable 
Privy-Council. 
This Book is mod humbly Dedicated, by 
Her Ladyship’s moft Obedient 
and moft Humble Servant, 
R. BRADLEY. TO THE 
LADIES 
O F 
Great-Britain, &c. 
BH E Reafon which induces me to 
nddrefs the following Piece to the 
Fair Sex, is, hecanfe the principal 
Matters contained in it are with- 
in the Liberty of their Province. 
The Art of Oexonomy is divided, as Xeno- 
phon tells us, between the Men and the Wo- 
men 5 the Men have the moft dangerous and 
laborious Share of it in the Fields, and with- 
out Doors,, and the Women have the Care and 
Management of everv Bufmefs within Doors, 
and to fee after the good ordering of what~  INTRODUCTION. 
ever is belonging to the Houfe, And this, i 
conceive, is no lefs the Practice of thefte 
Days, than it was in the Time of that great 
Philofopher \ therefore it may fteem necejfary 
that I make fome Apology for the Work 
I now pnblijh, which, for the mojl Part, 
falls within the Ladies Jurifdittioti : But I 
hope I am the more excufable, as my Defign 
is rather to afift, than to direEi. I may call 
myftelf rather their Aniamtenfis, than their 
Inf motor •, for the Receipts which I imagine 
will give the great eft Lufire or Ornament to 
the followingTreatife, are fucb as are praCti- 
fed by fome of the moft ingenious Ladies, who 
had Good-nature enough to admit of a Tran- 
fcription of them for publick Benefit \ and to 
do them 'fit(pice, I mufl acknowledge that 
every one who has try*d them, allow them to 
excel in their Way. The other Receipts are 
fucb as I have collected in my Travels, as 
well through England, as in foreign Coun- 
tries, and are fucb as I was prompted to 
cuter into my Lift, as well for their Curiofity 
as for their extraordinary Goodnefs, 
I could have launched much farther in 
this Attempt, but that I confined my felf to ‘ 
publijh only fitch as were necejfary for the 
I fe oft the Farm\ or, in other Terms, for 
the good ordering of every thing which is the 
Produce, INTRODUCTION. 
Prodike of a farm and Garden : And efipe- 
dally, I am induced to publijh a Traft of 
this Nature for two Reafons, which I think 
carry fome Sway with them. 
The fir ft is, that I find many ufeful 
things about Farms, and in Gardens, 
whofe Goodnefs is fo little known, or un- 
der flood, that they are feldom reckon'd of 
any account, and in moft Places are looked 
upon as Incumbrances , finch as Mujhrooms, 
Lupines, Brocoly, Morilles, Truffles, Skirrets, 
Scorzonera, Salfifie, Colerape, Chardones, 
Boorencole, w/zwy /W& like things, 
which are excellent in their kind, 
m?// drefs'd, admired by the greatefi: 
Epicures, 
T&* Reafon which has induced me 
to publijh this Piece, is, the Difficulties I 
have undergone in my Travels, when I 
have met with good Provifions, 
Places in England, which have been mur- 
der'd in the Dr effing. 
I could mention many Injlances as had 
as the common Story of Bacon and Eggs 
flrew'd with brown Sugar : But as this 
was done through Ignorance, as the Story 
relates, I hope I need make no further Apo- X 
INTRODUCTION. 
logy, or have occafwn to give any other 
Reafon for making this Treatife publick 
but that it may improve the Ignorant and 
remind the Learned, how and when to make 
the beji of every thing : Which may he a 
means of providing every one with a tolerable 
Entertainment founded upon PraHice and 
Fafhion, which can never fail of Followerx, 
and of making ns fare much better upon the 
Roads in the Country than we were ufed to do. the 
Country Lady’s 
DIRECTOR* 
JANUARY. 
BpaSgjiyill Shall in this Month take particular notice 
of the whofe Charadterfticks are 
iaTjll chiefly to have fhort Legs, and their Feet of 
a reddifli Colour, to have long Wings, and 
to be quick of Flight; in which the fpread- 
ing of their Tail Feathers greatly contribute, as well as 
to guide them in the Air. They lay for the moft part 
two' Eggs for one fitting, and no more; blit breed often 
in the Year. When Pigeons are once paired, it is obfer- 
ved they are very conftant to one amother, and aiTift each 
other in the Incubation or Sitting on the Eggs, as well as 
in bringing up and feeding the young ones ; and more- 
over it is remarkable, that a Pigeon has no Gall-Blad- 
der. 
The forts are, firft, the blue wild Pigeon, which is the 
moll frequent in Dove-Cotes, but is not very large, nor 
difpofed to breed fo early in the Spring as fome others: 
They are, however, a hardy kind, and will thrive any 
where, if there is plenty of Water; for tho’they are not 2 
The Country Lady's 
of a watery Race, yet it is obfervable, that they covet 
to be where it is, and that they feed frequently upon 
the Banks of Rivers and Ponds. I have known that w’here 
there were two Dove-Cotes, that flood within a Mile of 
one another, and one of them was near a River and the 
other remote from it, the Pigeons of the Houfe diflant 
from the Water, left their Habitation to refide in that 
next the River,even tho’they had an Allowance of good 
Food at home. 
Among the tame Pigeons, thofe which the Italians call'd 
Tronfo, and we Runts, are the largeft; but thefe may be a- 
gain diflinguifhed under the Characters of greater and 
fmaller: Thofe which are commonly call’d theSpaniJhßums, 
are very much elleem’d, being the largeft fort of Pigeon, 
and are fluggifh, and more flow of flight, than the fmaller 
fort of Runts; but the fmaller Runts are better Breeders, 
and quick of flight, which is to be elleem’d; becaufe, if 
they were to feek their Food far, they can range much 
more Ground, or return home much quicker on occafion 
of llormy or wet Weather. As for the Colours of their 
Feathers, they are uncertain, fo that one cannot judge of 
the fort by them. 
The next, which makes the largeft Figure, but is not 
in reality the largeft Bird, is the Cropper; it is fo named, 
becaufe they ufually do, by attracting the Air, blow up 
their Crops to an extraordinary bignefs, even fo fome- 
titries as to be as large as their Bodies. This fort is efteem- 
<ed the better, as it can fwell it’s Crop to the largeft lize. 
The Bodies of this fort are about rhe bignefs of the 
fmaller Runt, but fomewhat more flender. This fort, like 
the former, is of various Colours in the Feathers. 
The next are thofe Pigeons call’d Shakers, and are faid 
to be of two forts, viz. the broad-tail’d Shaker, and the 
narrow-tail’d Shaker: The reafon which is affign’d for 
calling them Shakers; is, becaufe they are almoft conftant 
in wagging their Heads and Necks up and down; and the 
DiftinCtion made between the broad and narrow-tail’d 
Shaker, is becaufe the broad-tail’d fort abounds with Tail 
Feathers, about in number, as Mr. Ray obferves, and 
the narrowT-tail’d Shakers have fewer in number. Thefe, 
when they walk, carry their Tail Feathers ereCt, and 
fpread abroad like a Turkey-Cock. They likewife have 
diverfity of Feathers. 
The next I lhall take notice of are the Jacobines, or 
Cappers: Thefe are call’d Cappers from certain Feathers Director. 
which turn up about the back part ot the Head. There 
areofthefe that are rough-footed; thefe are fhort-bill’d, 
the Iris of their Eye of a Pearl Colour, and the Head is 
commonly white. 
The next is theTutbit, commonly fo calPd, but what is 
theoccafion of the Name, is not known, unlefs Turbit, or 
Turbecli is a Corruption of the Word Conbec\, or 
which is the Name the Hollanders give them, and feems to 
be derived from the French, where Coun-bec would fignify a 
fhort Bill, which this Pigeon is remarkable for ; the Head 
is flat, and the Feathers on the Breaft fpread both wrays, 
Thefe are about the bignefsof the Jacobines. 
The Carrier Pigeon is the next I fliall take notice of; 
it is fo call'd from the Ufe which it fometimes made of 
them in carrying of Letters to and fro .* It is very fure 
that they are nimble Meftengers, for by experience it is 
found, that one of thefe Pigeons will fly three Miles in a 
Minute9 London!n feven Minutes,which 
has been try’d, and I am inform’d, that they have been 
fent of a much longer Meffage: However, they might cer- 
tainly be made very ufeful in Difpatches, which required 
fpeed, if we were to train them regularly between one 
Houfe and another, We have an account of them paf- 
fingand repairing with Advices between Hirtius and Bru- 
tus, at the Siege of Modena, who had, by laying Meat for 
them in fome high Places, inftru&ed their Pigeons to 
fly from place to place for their Meat, having before 
kept them hungry, and fhut up in a dark Place. Thefe 
are about the flze of common Pigeons, and of a dark 
blue or blackifh Colour, which is oneway of diftinguifh- 
ing them from other forts; They-are alfo remarkable for 
having their Eyescompafs’d about with a broad Circle of 
naked fpungy Skin, and for having the upper Chap of 
their Beak cover’d more than half from the Head with a 
double Cruft of the like naked fungous Body. The Bill, 
or Beak, is moderately long, and black. Thefe Birds are 
of that Nature, that tho’ they are carried many Miles 
from the place where they were bred, or brought up, or 
have themfelves hatch’d, or bred up any young ones, 
they will immediately return home as foon as we let them 
fly. Perhaps this may, in fome meafure, depend upon the 
Affection the Male or Female bear to one another. When 
they are to be ufed as Carriers, two Friends muft agree to 
keep them, one in London, and the other at Guilford, or 
elfewhere ; the • Perfon that lives at Guilford muft The Country Lady's 
take two or three Cocks or Hens that were bred at his 
Friends at London, and the other two or three that were 
bred at Guilford; when the Perfon at London has occafion 
to fend anExprefs, he muft roll up a little piece of Paper, 
and tie it gently with a fmall String pafs’d thro1 it about 
the Pigeon’s Neck. But it mull be obferv’d that the 
Pigeon you defign to fend with a Mefiage, be kept pret- 
ty much in the dark, and without Meat, for eight or 
ten Hours before you turn them out, and they will then 
rife and turn round till they have found their way, and 
continue their Flight till they have got home. With 
t wo, or three of thefe-Pigeons on each fide, a Correfpon- 
dence might be carried on in a very expeditious manner, 
efpecially in matters of Curiofity, or thofe things which 
tend to, publick Good. I know a Gentleman that has 
let out on a Journey early in the Morning, where it was 
judged to be dangerous travelling, that has taken one of 
this fort of Pigeons in his Pocket, and at his Journey’s 
End, which he tells me tvas near thirty Miles diftant from 
bis Houfe, has turn’d off the Pigeon, and it has been at 
it’s feeding Place in nine or ten Minutes, with an account 
of his fafety. In Turkey it is very cufiomary for thefe Pi- 
geons to be taken on board a Ship that fails, by the Cap- 
tain, and if any thing extraordinary happens within the 
difiance of 6 or 8 Leagues, the Pigeon is lent back with Ad- 
vice, which fometimes may be a means of favinga Ship 
from being taken by the Pyrates, or other Enemies, ana 
expedite Trade. 
The Barbary Pigeon, or Barb, is another fort, whofe 
Bill is like that of the Turbit, i.e, fhort and thick, and a 
broad and naked Circle of a fpungy white Subfiance round 
about the Eye, like that in the Carrier Pigeon. The Iris 
oftheEyeis white, if the Feathers of the Pigeon are incli- 
ning to a darkifh Colour; but is red, if the Feathers are 
white, as we find in other white Birds. 
Smitersare another fortofPigeon,fuppos’d to be the fame 
that the Hollanders call Draijers. This fort fhake their Wings 
as they fly, and rife commonly in a circular manner 
in their flight; the Males for themofi part riling higher 
than the Females, and frequently falling and flapping 
them with their Wings, which produces a noife that one 
may hear a great from whence it happens that 
their Quill Feathers are commonly broken or Chatter'd. 
Thefe are almofilike the Pigeon call'd the Tumbler; the 
difference chiefly is, that the Tumbler isf&mething final- Director. 
ler, and in it’s flight will turn itfelf backward over it’s 
Head. The diverfity of colours in the Feathers makes no 
difference. 
The Helmet is another kind of Pigeon diftinguifh’d 
from the others, becaufe it has the Head, the Quill Fea- 
thers, and the Tail Feathers alwaysof one colour: Some- 
times black, fometimes white, or red, or blue, or yel- 
low; but the other Feathers of the Body are of a different 
colour. 
The next Pigeon I fhall take notice of, is that which 
is call’d the light Horfeman; this is fuppofed to beacrofs 
ftrain between a Cock Cropper and a Hen of the Carrier 
Breed, becaufe they feem to partake of both, as appears 
from the excrefcent Flefh on their Bills, and the fwell- 
ing of their Crops; hut I am not determin’d concern- 
ing that point, nor can give any good Judgment about it, 
till I have feen whether the Cropper be the Male or Fe- 
male, upon which depends a Debate in Natural Philofo- 
phy, which has not been yet decided; this fort however 
is reckon’d the belt Breeder, and are not inclin’d to leave 
the place of their Birth, or the Houfe where they have 
been aceuftom’d. 
The Ba.jixrd.-bill Pigeon is another fort, which is fome- 
what bigger than the Barbary Pigeon; they have fliort 
Bills, and are generally faid to have red Eyes, but I fup- 
pofe thofe colour’d Eyes are belonging only to thofe 
which have white Feathers. 
There is alfo a Pigeon call’d the Turner, which is faid to 
have a tuft of Feathers hanging backward on the Head, 
which parts, as Mr.Krfy fays, like a Horfe’s Main. 
There is a fmaller fort than the former call’d the Fmibjn, 
but in tother refpefh like the former. There is a fore 
of Pigeon call’d the Spot, fuppos’d, and with good Judg- 
ment. to take its Name from the Spot on its Forehead 
juft above its Bill, and the Feathers of its Tail always 
of the fame colour with the Spots, and all the other Fea- 
thers are white. 
Laftly, I fhall take notice of the Pigeon call’d the 
Mavtmet, or Mahomet, fuppofed to be brought from Turkey; 
however, it is fingular for its large black Eyes; the o- 
ther parts are like thofe of the Barbary Pigeon. 
Thefe are the forts of Pigeons generally known,’ 
for the large Italian Pigeons are only tha larger Runts; 
and lam of opinion, that the diverfity of colours in 
Pigeons only proceed from the diverfity of kinds of 6 
The Country Lady's 
Pigeons, that couple with one another; for I have 
known Swine that have been whole footed, that have 
coupled with thofe that were cloven footed, and the 
Pigs that were produced, were partaking of whole and 
cloven Hoofs, fome one, fome two cloven Hoofs, and 
the reft whole Hoofs. 
Concerning the Life of a Pigeon, Anftotle fays, that a 
Pigeon will live forty Years, but Albemi finiflies the 
Life of a Pigeon at twenty Years; however Aldrovaniut 
tells us of a Pigeon, which continued alive two and 
twenty Years, and bred ail that time except the laft fix 
Months, during which fipace it had loft its Mate, and 
lived in Widowhood. There is a remarkable Particular 
mention'd by Aldrovandus relating to the Pigeon, which 
is, that the young Pigeons always bill the Hens as often 
as they tread them, but the elder Pigeons only bill the 
Hens the firft time before coupling. Pliny and Athemm, 
from Anftotle, tell us, that it is peculiar to Pigeons not 
to hold up their Heads when they drink as other Birds 
and Fowls do, but to drink like Cattle by fucking with- 
out intermiffion; it is eafily obferved, and worth Obfer- 
vation. 
To diftinguifh which are the Males and Females among 
Pigeons, it is chiefly known by the Voice and Cooing; 
the Female has a fmall weak Voice, and the Male a loud 
and deep Voice. 
The Flefli of Pigeons is hard of Digeftion, and there- 
fore is not judged a proper Supper-meat; it is laid to yield 
a Melancholy Juice, but if boyl d are very tender, or 
roafted while they are called Squabs, viz- Pigeons about 
four days old, they are much better for the Stomach, and 
then commonly yield, among the Curious in eating, a- 
bout eighteen Pence, or two Shillings a-piece. The 
Food which is generally given to Pigeons is Tares; but 
if we were to mix Spurry Seeds with it, or Buck-Wheat, 
thofe Grains would forward their breeding, as has been 
try’d; however, if Pigeons are fed only with Tares, and 
are of a good kind, we may expcft them to breed nine or 
ten times in a Year; but fometimes, perhaps, not hatch 
above one at a time, tho’ if they were in full Vigour, 
they •would breed up a Pair at one fitting. 
In the feeding of Pigeons it is advifeable not to let them 
have more Meat at one time than they can eat, for they 
are apt to tofs it about and lofe a great deal of it; fo that Director; 
7 
the contrivance of filling a ftone Bottle with their Meat,' 
and putting the Mouth downwards, lb that it may come 
within an Inch of a Plain or Table, and will give a Rip- 
ply as they feed, is much the belt way. And their drink- 
ing-water fhould be difpenfed to them in the fame way 
out of a Bottle revers’d with the Mouth into a narrow 
Ihallo w Ciftern;but at the fame time they fhould not want 
theconveniency of a Pan of Water, iftherecanbe no bet- 
ter had, to walli themfelves in, for they are of themfelves 
a Bird fubjed to contrad Dirt and Fleas. This is what 
I lliall fay of the breeding of tame Pigeons atprefent. 
As to the preparing of Pigeons for the Table, they 
are commonly either roafted, boiled, baked or broiled ; 
thefe are fo generally underftood, that I need not men- 
tion them, nor that Parlley is almoft become necefifary 
with them either to be roafted or boiled in the Body of 
the Pigeon, or put in the Sauces for them: This every 
one knows, but that the Liver of the Pigeon Ihould be 
always left in the Body of it, is not known every 
where, otherwifeit would not be fo generally taken out 
and loft, as it is in many places remote from London\ but 
this may be, perhaps, becaufe every one does not know 
that a Pigeon has no Gall. As to particular ways of 
Drefling, of Pigeons, there are two or three which I think 
are excellent. The firft I had from a Lady in Ejjex, whom 
I have had occafion to mention in this and other Works, 
and that is in refped to broiling of Pigeons whole. 
When the Pigeon is prepared for the Kitchen, tye the 
Skin of the Neck very tight with Pack-thread, and put 
into the Body a little Pepper, salt, Butter, and a little 
Water at the Vent, and tie it up dole at the Neck, broil 
this upon a gentle Fire,flowring it very well, and bailing 
it with Butter. When this is brought to Table, it 
brings it’s Sauce in it felf. To thofe who are not 10-; 
vers of Spice or Salt, the Butter and Water will be fuffici- 
ent to draw the Gravy in the Pigeon; But a Pigeon which 
is fplit and broiled is of a very different Tafte from this,1 
and not worthy, in my opinion, to be reckon’d with 
it. 
Another way of ordering which I met with 
by accident, and pleafed me as well as feveral Gentlemen 
in my Company, was the boiling of Pigeons in Pafte : 
The Receipt the People gave me for it, was, to fill the 
Belly of the Pigeon with Butter, a little Water, fome Pep- 8 
The Country Lady 's 
per and Salt, and cover it with a thin light Pafle, and then 
to putina fine LinnenCloth, and boil it fora time in 
proportion to it’s bignefs, and ferve it up. When this 
is cut open, it will yield Sauce enough of a very agreeable 
Relifli. 
Stewing of Pigeons? from Monf. La 
an excellent Cook in 
Paris. 
Pick and wafti half a dozen Pigeons, and lay them into 
a Stew-Pan, with a Pint or more of good Gravy, an 
Onion cut fmall, or three or four large Shalots, a 
little Bunch of fweet Herbs, fome Pepper and Salt, a 
Pint of Muflirooms that have been well clean’d, and cut 
into fmall Pieces,and a little Mace; letthefe flew gently 
till they are tender, and add to them about half a Pint of 
White-Wine juft before you take them off the Fire: Then 
lay your Pigeons in your Diflh, and brown your Sauce af- 
ter ’tis difcharged of the Bunch of fweet Herbs and the 
Spice, which ftiould be tied in a little Linnen Cloth; pour 
then your Sauce with the Mufhrooms over the Pigeons, 
and ftrew the whole over with grated Bread, giving 
it a browning with a red-hot Iron; or the grated Bread 
may be omitted. 
Another Way of drejjing Pigeons from 
the fame. 
TAke young Pigeons and par-boil them, then chop 
feme raw Bacon very fmall, with a little Parfley, a 
little fweet_ Marjoram, or fweet Bafil, and a fmall 
Onion; feafon this with Salt and Pepper, and fill the Bo- 
dies of the Pigeons with it. When this is done, flew the 
Pigeons in Gravy, or ftrong Broth, with an Onion ftuck 
with Cloves, a little Verjuice and Salt; when they are Director. 
enough, take them out of the Liquor, and dip them in 
Eggs that have been well beaten, and after that roll them 
in grated Bread, that they may be cover'd with it. Then 
make Ibme Lard very hot, and fry them in it till they are 
brown, and ferve them up with fome of the Liquor they 
were llew'd in, and fry'd Parlley. 
In the beginning of this Month, as well as in Decern* 
ter,, the Eel is commonly laid up in the Mud, and we find 
them there in Clullers folded one over another, which 
I fuppofe is the manner of coupling for in the beginning 
of March, or end of February, we fee young ones as fmall 
as Threads on the edges of the Waters. 1 think it is no 
longer to be doubted, but that the Eel is viviparous; that 
is, it brings it's young ones perfectly framed, and does 
not lay Spawn like other Fifli: And the Refemblance the 
Eel bears to that Fifh, which is call'd by the Filhermen 
the Coney Filh, and is found at this time about the 
Buoy of the More full of young ones, makes me the rather 
conclude the Eel brings forth it's Young perfectly form’d. 
This Fifh is not accounted wholefome at this time of the 
Year, nor fit for eating till they begin to run in March; 
therefore what I have to fay relating to preparing Eels 
for the Table, will be fet do wn in the Month of March. 
FEBRUARY 
AS our Poultry will begin to lay plentifully in this 
Month, it may not be improper to fay fomething 
of them before we proceed to give the Receipts 
for dreffing and preparing their Eggs for the Table. It 
is neceffary to be known firft, the Difference between 
Fowls and Birds; a Fowl always leads it’s young Ones to 
the Meat, and a Bird carries the Meat to the Young : For 
thisßeafon, we find that Fowls always make their Nefts 
upon the Ground, while Birds, for the moft part, build 
their Nefts aloft; fo then our common Poultry are Fowls, 
the Pheafant. Partridge, Peacock, Turkey, Bullard, Quail, The Country Lady's 
lapwing, Duck, and fuch like are all Fowds; But a 
Pigeon is a Bird, and a Stork, or Crane, and a He- 
ron, are Birds, they build their Neds aloft, and car- 
ry Meat to their young ones. 
The Charafteriflick Marks of the Poultry Kind are, 
befides what I have faid above, to have fliort, ftrong, 
and fomewhat crooked Bills, which are belt adapted to 
pick up Grains of Corn, Pulfe, and other Seeds, which 
is chiefly what thefe Fowls Feed upon; and we mayob- 
ferve, that as neither Birds nor Fowls have Teeth to 
macerate their Food with, fo Nature has provided them 
not only with a Crop, to foften their Meat, but a Sto- 
mach furnifli’d with thick ftrong Mufcles, whole ufe 
is to grind the Grains of Corn, or any hard Meat 
fwallow’d whole, which they perform by the help of 
little Stones, which Birds and Fowls fwallow now and 
then, and which fupply the defedt of Teeth. It is ob- 
fervable, that Fowls, fot the mod part, lay a greater 
number of Eggs than Birds, even many more than they 
can lit upon at one time. I have known about thirty 
Eggs lay’d by one common Poultry Hen, but it is fel- 
dom that any Bird lays more than five or fix, except the 
Wren, and the Tom-tit, and the Pigeon not more 
than two. Again, the Poultry, contrary to others of 
the winged Race, are armed with Spurs; and it is ob- 
fervable, that the Cocks of the common Poultry diftin- 
guilh themfelves from diurnal Fowls, by crowing or fing- 
ing in the Night, as the Nightingale diftinguiflies it felt 
from the reft: of the Bird-kind. As for the length of 
life in common Poultry, Jldrovandus makes it to be a- 
bout ten Years, but that the Cock becomes unfit for 
the Hens when he is four Years old; and we find by 
experience the fame, as well as that a Cock fhould not 
have more than fix or feven Hens, if we expeft health- 
ful and ftrong Broods of Chickens. About the Laying- 
time of thefe Fowls, Spurry Seed and Buck-Wheat is an 
excellent ftrengthening Food for them. 
There is another thing relating to Fowls of this kind 
well worthy obfervation ; and that is, of Capons be- 
ing made to bring up a Brood of Chickens like a Hen, 
clucking of 'em, brooding them, and leading them to 
their Meat, with as much Care and Tendernefs as their 
Dams would do. To bring this about, -fo. Baptifia Porta, 
in lib. 4. Mag. Nat. prefcribes to make a Capon very 
tame and familiar, foas to take Meat out of one’s Hand; Director 
then about Evening-time pluck the Feathers off his 
Bread, and rub the bare Skin with Nettles, and then 
put the Chickens to him, which will prel'ently run un- 
der his Bread and Belly; the Chickens then rubbing his 
Bread gently with their Heads perhaps allay the dinging 
and itching occafioned by the Nettles, or perhaps they 
may contribute to warm that part where the Feathers 
are away; however, the bare part mud be rubb'd with 
Nettles three or four Nights fucceffively, till he begins 
to love and delight in the Chickens. 
When a Capon is once accudomed to this Service, he 
will noteafily leave it off; but as foonas he has brought 
up one Brood of Chickens, we may put another to 
him, and when they are fit to fhift for themfelves, we 
may give him the Care of a third. 
The forts of the Houfe Pullen, or common Poultry’ 
are many; but as the ufe of them for the Table is the 
fame. I lhall only take notice of fuch as are of the 
large Dunghill kind, or of the Hamburg fort, of the 
Game kind, and of the fmall Dutch kind ; which lad is 
admired by fome for the finenefs of their Flefh, and for 
being great layers, efpecially in the Winter : But it is 
certain that the larger fort fell the bed at Market, and 
lay the larged Eggs, and therefore fliould be the mod 
cultivated about a Farm. As for the Game Breed, fome 
fancy that their Flefh is more white and tender than 
the orher forts; but they are always quarrelling, which 
contributes to make themfelves and their Brood Weak. 
Wherg we propofe to raife a large Stock of Poultry, 
we fliould be careful to fecure our Hen-Houfe from Ver- 
min of all forts, and keep it dry and clean, allowingalfo as 
much Air as podible; for if it is not often clean'd, the 
fcent of the Dung will give your Fowl the Roop: So 
likewife there mud be eafy Convenience for perch- 
ing of the Fowls, difpofed in fuch a manner, that the 
Pearches be not placed over any of the Hen's Neds 
which mud always lie dry and clean, bedded with Straw, 
for Hay is apt to make the fitting Hens faint and weak. 
When we defign to fet a Hen, we fliould fave her Eggs 
in dry Bran, and when fhe clucks, put no more in her 
Ned than flie can well cover; for as to certain 
numbers to be more lucky in hatching there is 
nothing in that : And if we fat Fowls, then 
ufe the method prefcribed in my Country Gentleman 
mi Farmer's Monthly Vireftor in the Month of January, which 12 
The Country Lady's 
is much the heft: way of any that has yet been difco- 
verecL In the choice of Fowls for eating,'thofe which 
are white feather’d and white legg’d, are much tender- 
er and finer in their Flefh than thofe of other Colours, 
and are much weaker; for which reafon, thofe who un- 
derftand Cocking, do not approve of fuch as happen 
to be white feather’d: and thofe which are black Fea- 
ther’d, are accounted the hotteft and moft fiery, and 
their Flefh is coarfef than in other Fowls. But let ns 
pow come to the ufe of the Flefh of thefe Fowls, which 
is either eaten roafted, boiled, fricafled, baked, or broil- 
ed either flit or whole. It is to be noted, that the Flefh 
of thefe Fowls or Chickens boiled is more eafily digeft- 
ed than the Flefh of thofe that are roafted, and the 
Flefh of the Legs is more eafy of Digeftion than that of 
the Breaft. Mr. Rzy takes notice, that thofe parts of Fowls, 
which are continually in Adlion, are efteem’d the beft, 
for which reafon he prefers the Legs of tame Fowls, and 
what we call the Wings in wild Fowl, that is, the flefh y 
part on the Breaft. Gefner and Aldrovandm have both large- 
ly treated of the ufe of the Flefh and Eggs of thefe Fowls, 
but I believe fome of the following Receipts for drefling 
them, will not be unacceptable, they being more adapted 
to the tafte of our Times. 
I fhall begin with fome curious ways- of drefling of 
Eggs, which I had from a Gentleman of Bruffels, who had 
collected them from moft parts of Europe. 
Firfl Way of dr effing of Eggs. 
BOil your Eggs till they are hard, and cut the Whites 
only into Rings or large pieces; then cut fomePar- 
i K fley, and Onions fmall, and ftew them with a little 
Salt, Pepper, and Nutmeg in half a Pint of Water, till 
the Onion and Parfley is tender ; wdien this is done, put 
in your Eggs well flower’d, and as foon as they are hot, 
put half a Pint of Cream to them, and thicken them for 
ferving at the Table. The Yolks may be fry’d to garpifh 
the Dilh, • PIREC T 0 R, 
Second Way of preparing of Eggs. 
BOil your Eggs hard as before, and cut the 
likewife as directed in the above Receipt, and then 
prepare fome Gravy, a bunch of fweet Herbs, a lit- 
tle Salt, fome Lemon Peel, fome Jamaica, Pepper beaten 
fmall, an Onion Aired fmall, and let thefe flew together 
till it is fufficiently feafon’d j after which, ftrain it off, 
and put in the Eggs to heat them thoroughly, and then 
thicken the whole with burnt B utter. 
Third Way of preparing of Eggs, 
BReak fome Eggs, beat them well, and feafon them with 
Salt and fome Jamaica Pepper finely powder’d, then 
make fome Butter very hot in a Pan, and pour in 
the Mixture to fry,till it is hard enough to hold together; 
then it muff be taken out, and cut into feveral Pieces, 
and ferved with the fame Sauce dire&ed in the foregoing 
Receipt. 
Fourth Way of dr effing of Eggs. 
TAke the Hearts of two or three Cabbage Lettuces, a 
little Sorrel, Parfley, Cherville, and a large Muflh- 
roqm, put them in Water over the Fire till they 
are tender, then chop them together very fmall with fome 
Yolks of hard Eggs, and feafon the whole with Salt, Pep- 
per or Nutmeg; and when the Mafs is well mixt together, 
put them in pafte, making them into fmall flat Puffs, and 
fry them. This may be diverfify’d, by adding fome fweet 
Herbs clipp’d fmall to the Mixture, before it is put into 
Pafte. The Country Lady's 
Fifth Way of dr effing of Eggs. 
BEat as many Eggs as you think convenient, and at the 
fame time fqueeze the Juice of an Orange among 
them ; being well beaten, feafon them with a little 
Salt, then take a Stew-Pan, and if it is aFaft-day, put forae 
Butter into it and pour in your Eggs, keeping them iHr- 
ring continually over the Fire till they are enough, then 
pour them into a Plate upon Sippets. But on Flefh-days, 
inftead of Butter ufe ftrong Gravy, or on Filh-days feme 
Mufliroom-Gravy may be ufed inftead of Butter, or with 
it. 
Sixth Way of ordering of Eggs, 
EOil Eggs till they are hard, peel them, and Cut them 
length-ways, then quarter each half and dip the fe- 
veral quarters in Batter made of Flower, Eggs and 
milk; fry them then in Butter very hot, over a quick Fire, 
and lay them a while before the Fire to drain. In the 
mean while prepare for them the following Sauce of burnt 
or brown Butter, feafoned with fweet Herbs, Salt, Pep- 
per, Nutmeg, and a little Elder Vinegar, with fome Mufh- 
xooms ftew’d, and hafh’d; and garnifli your Difh, or 
Plate, with fry’d Bread, Parfley, and fry’d Mufhrooms. 
Thefeareafew out of many Receipts, which the above 
Gentleman gave me. and may ferveasDireftions for many 
ethers; for by what I can find, all the others depend upon 
the fame Principles. The variation of thefe depends 
upon the variety of Taftes : Some like Amletts, orFrazes 
of Eggs, with Bacon, or with Clary, or other high-tafted 
Herbs, which every good Houfewife knows how to, direft. 
The fame Gentleman obferves, that Amletts with boiled 
Artichoke Bottoms Hie d, Amletts with the Tops of boil’d 
Afparagus, green Peafe boiled, Mufh rooms ftew’d and 
flic’d or Truffles, thefe he tells me are extraordinary. Director. 
As to the particulars relating to the dreffing of fatted 
Fowls, the methods which moll agree with my Palate, and 
have been admired by the beft Judges of my Acquaint 
tance, are the following, which I had from France. 
To drefs a Capon? or other Fowl. 
WHen your Fowl is trufs’d for Reading, cover the 
Bread: with a thin dice of fat Bacon, and put an 
Onion duck with Cloves into the Belly, with 
fomeSalt and Pepper; when it isroaded enough, takeoff 
the Bacon, and drew it with graced Bread, till it is brown. 
This is eaten, either with Orange Juice and Salt, or if Cy- 
ders are at hand, as they are about many Farms in England, 
they may be dew’d gently, with a little white Wine, Spice, 
and a little Butter, which will make an agreeable Sauce 
for it. Orelfe it may be eaten with a very good Sauce, 
which I have often met with, and have lik’d as well, 
which is made with fmall Beer and Water, equal quanti- 
ties, an Onion dic'd, fome Pepper and Salt, and about an 
Ounce of Flelh, either of Mutton or Beef, to boil till it 
comes to about half,fuppofing at fird ’tis not above half 
a Pint; and at fome places, indead of Mutton, &c. this 
Sauce has been only made of the Neck of a Fowl. This 
Sauce, in my Opinion, has a very rich Tade, and has been 
well approv’d of by fome curious Travellers: Where we 
could have this, we rather chofe it than Wine Sauce. Ca- 
pons, Pullets, or others of this fort of Fowl, may be alfo 
larded with Bacon, if they are roadecl; but the Gentleman 
aforefaid, who gave me this Receipt, told me that no 
.Water-Fowl mud be larded wdch Bacon. 
To farce or fluff'a Fowl. From Mr. 
Agneau. 
WHen your Fowl is made ready for RoafHng, take 
the Liver boil’d a Shallot, a little Fat of Bacon, 
fome grated Bread, the Bottom of a boil’d Artichoke, and 
fome Muflirooms. chop thefe very fmall, and make a The Country Lady's 
forc’d Meat of them, feafon’d with Salt and Spices at plea- 
fure 5 fill the Belly of the fowl with this, and then trufsit, 
covering the Bread with a thin llice of fat Bacon, and o- 
ver that put a piece of writing Paper. Road this, and 
ferve it up with the following Sauce ; Make a hafli of 
Mufhrooms, an Anchovy, a few Capers and fome Gravy, 
boiled together with fuch Seafoning as you approve, the 
Sauce fhould be thicken’d or brown’d, and it is fit for the 
Table. 
To farce Fowls another way. From 
the fame. 
TAke Pullets and road them, then take the Flefh of 
the Bread, and mince it fmall, writh fome Pat of Ba- 
con boiled, a few Muflarooms, a little Onion and 
Pardey, and fome Crumbs of Bread foak’d in Cream over 
a gentle Fire; when all thefe are well minc’d, add the Yoiks 
of two or three Eggs, and mix all together ; then rvith 
this forced Meat fill the Bread of the Fowls in their proper 
lhape, and beat fome Whites of Eggs to go over them, and 
then cover them thick with Crumbs of Bread, having Hrd 
laid your Fowls commodioudy in a Difh, and then put 
them in the Oven till they have taken a fine brown Colour. 
If you have more of this farc’d Meat than you ufe in making 
good the Fowls, either make it into Balls and fry them, 
or elfemakea Batter of Eggs, Milk, and Wheat Flower, 
and dip fmall parcels of the Farce into it to fry for gar- 
nidiing. You may make a Sauce to thefe farc’d Fowls 
with dew’d Mufhrooms tofs’d up with Cream, the fame 
may be done with Turkeys, Pheafants, &V. 
To make a brown or white Fricaffee of 
Chickens. From the fame. 
STrip the Chickens of their Skins as foon as they ate 
kill’d, and when they are drawn cut their Wings, 
Legs, and moil fleihly parts in Pieces; then fry them a little Director. 
Butter and Gravy, for a brown Fricaflee, or Butter and 
Water for a white Fricaflee ; to either of thefe add a 
Glafs of white Wine, with a Seafoning of Salt, Pepper, 
Nutmeg, Cherville cut fmall, and three or four young 
Onions whole, that they may be withdrawn when the 
Fricaflee is enough : Then brown the Sauce with fome of 
the fame Lard the Chickens were fryed in. and thicken it 
with burnt Flower, to this you may add fry’d or ftew’d 
Muflirooms. But for a white Fricaflee, inftead of the 
browning with the Lard and burnt Flower, thicken the 
Sauce with three or four Yolks of Eggs, and a little Verjuice 
or elfe when the Fricaflee is ftew’d enough, take oft the 
Fat as much as poflible,and tofs it up with Cream; this 
will ferve to fricaflee Rabbits. 
In Lent, and on Faft-days,l have eaten very good Soups 
abroad, that were made without any Flefh. And as that 
is not very common in England, I thought it convenient 
to bring over the Receipts with me, that we may know 
how to make the beft of every thing about a Farm. 
To make Fifh~Gra<vy for Soup. 
TO make this Fifii-Gravy, which may ferve for a Foun- 
dation of all Fifti Soups, take Tench or Eels, op 
both, well fcour’d from Mud, and their Outfides fcour’d 
well with Salt; then pull out their Gills, and put them 
in a Kettle with Water, Salt, a bunch of fweet Herbs, 
and an Onionftuck with Cloves; fyoil thefe an hour and 
a half, and thenftrain off the Liquor thro1 a Cloth; add 
to this the Peelings of Mufhrooms well wafli’d, or Mu- 
fhrooms themfelves cut fmall; boil thefe together, and 
ftrain the Liquor thro1 a Sieve into a Stew-Pan, upon 
fome burnt or fry’d Flower, and a little Lemon which 
will foon render it of a good Colour, and delicate Fla- 
vour, fit for Soups, which may be varied according to 
the Palate, by putting in Pot-Herbs and Spices to every 
one’s liking; this will keep good fome time. When you 
make any of this into Soup, remember to put a Glafs of 
white Wine into your Soup a little before you ferve it. 18 
The Country Lady's 
A Foundation for Herb Soup. 
TAke a quantity of good Herbs, fuch is Cherville, 
Spinage, Sallery, Leeks, Beet-Cards, and filch like, 
with two or three large Crufts of Bread, fome Butter, a 
bunch of fweet Herbs, and a little Salt; put thefe, with 
a moderate quantity of Water, into a Kettle, and boil 
them an hour and half, and ftrain off the Liquor thro3 a 
Sieve, and it will be a good Foundation for Soups, either 
of Afparagus Buds, Lettuce, or any other kind, fit for 
Lent or Faft-Days. Thefe Herb Soups are fometimes ftrength- 
ened with two or three Yolks of Eggs, a little before they 
are ferv3d to the Table. 
As in this Month there is plenty of Oranges, fo it is a 
proper Seafon to make Orange Wine, which is a moft plea- 
fant and refreflring Liquor in the Summer Sealon. The 
following Receipt is an approved one for it. 
To make Orange Wine. From Mrs. E. B. 
TAke twenty Gallons of Water, and forty Pounds of 
fine Sugar, mix thefe together, boil and clarify it 
with the Whites of Eggs: againft this is done, have two 
hundred middling Oranges, pared fo thin that no White 
appear upon the Rinds; and as foon as the Syrup is taken 
off the Fire, put the Peels of five and twenty Oranges in- 
to it; and when the Liquor is quite cold, put in the Juice 
of the Oranges, with fome frefli Ale-Yeaft fpread upon a 
warmToaft of white Bread; let this work two days, and 
then put it into the Veflel or Cask, adding at the fame time, 
two Gallons of white Port Wine; and then to every Gal- 
lon of Liquor, add an Ounce of Syrup of Citron, or Sy- 
rup of Lemon, and in two Months time it will be fit to 
bottle. 
In this Month it may not be unneceflary to obferve 
that Oranges are declining, andwafte apace; but they are 
commonly very cheap, and therefore fitch as have a great Director. 
Call for Orange-peel, as Confectioners, &c. now buy 
them in quantities; but a little Carriage by Land will 
contribute to their quicker decay. The Orange, tho’ it is 
not found in every Garden, yet I efteem it as aneceflary 
Fruit in many Cafes, and what a Family rcan hardly be 
without; and truly confidering how good Oranges we 
might have in our Gardens, and how eafily they may 
be cultivated againft Garden-walls, I much wonder that 
they are not more generally planted with us. There is 
a very good Inftance of their profpering well againft a 
Wall, and thriving in the natural Ground, at Mr. Hea- 
thers, a curious Gentleman at Tmttenham, which Trees bear 
very well, and bring very large Fruit. 
But as I have obfervd above, that this is the Seafon 
when foreign Oranges are generally in the greateft plen- 
ty about London, it is a good time to preferve their Juice 5 
especially it may prove ulefulto fuch as have opportuni- 
ties of vending Punch in large Quantities, or for fuch who 
find that Liquor agreeable to them ; For tho’l have known 
feveral who have exprefs’d the Juice of Oranges and Le- 
mons, and bottled it up againft a dear Time, yet fuch Juice 
has turn'd to be of a very difagreeable Sournefs in a Ihort 
feafon. The Method which I have taken to preferve this 
Juice to be ufed in Punch, wastoexprefs the Juice, and 
pafs it thro'a Jelly-bag, with about two Ounces of double 
refined Loaf-Sugar to each Pint of Juice, and a Pint of 
Brandy, or Arrack ; bottle this up, and cork it well with 
found Corks, and you may keep it a Year. Before you 
pafs this Liquor thro’ the Bag. you may put about the 
Rind of two Oranges to fteep for two Hours, into each 
Quart of Liquor, which will give it a rich Flavour. 
When you have occafion to ufe it for Punch, it is at 
the difcretion of the maker to add what quantity of 
Brandy, or Arrack, he thinks proper, only remember- 
ing that there is already a Pint in each Bottle. This 
may be of good advantage to Inn-keepers,, &c. who 
live remote from London’-, and by.this way they need not 
run the hazard of lofing this fort of Fruit, by bruif- 
ing or roting, which they will be fubjedl to, if they 
are not well pack’d, and have bad Roads. And befides, 
confidering the vaft difference that there is in the Price 
of Oranges, fo much, that at fome Seafons you muft pay 
as much for one, as will at another timepurchafe near a 
Dozen, it is the beft to confider of this when they are 
atthecheapeft Price. We may likewifeufe the fame Me-  The Country Lady's 
thod with Lemons-, but it is not convenient to fteep 
any of the Peels in the Liquor, for they will give it a 
difagreeable Flavour. But it is to be underftood alfo, 
that Lemons are to be met with in perfection all the 
Year ; only this Seafon they are at the cheapeft Price. 
The Peel of an Orange or two may be put to each Quart 
of Juice, to fteep as above directed, bruifing every piece 
of Peel as you put it into the Juice. Note, that the Le- 
mon and Orange Juice mull not be mix’d together in the 
fame Bottles. 
MARCH. 
| 
THIS Month all forts of Pond-fiHa are in Seafon; 
viz. the Jack, the Carp, the Tench, the Perch 
and the Eel; but it mull be noted, that both the Males 
and Females of every kind of Fifh are in their greateft Per- 
fection before the Spawning-time, and they are lick 
and unwholefom for three Weeks after Spawning. The 
Eel, indeed, has not yet been known to lay any Spawn, 
but is likely to be Viviparous, as I have mention'd in 
the Month of January. The Jack, or Pike, this Month 
runs, as the Sportfmen call it; that is, they retire into 
the Ditches, if there are any in their wray, and feed up- 
on Frogs; or elfe in warm Days, lie upon the top of 
the Waters and are ealily taken by Snares; However, 
they are this Month full row'd, and are then in their 
greateft Strength, and in the heft condition for the Ta- 
ble. We judge thofe are the beft which are broad-back’d, 
and deep Filh; for thofe that are long and flender, have 
not their Flelh firm, which is reckon’d the Perfection of 
a Fifh. The way of preparing this Filh in the beft man- 
ner, in my Opinion, if it is large, is to roaft it accord- 
ing to the following Receipt, which I had from Mr. John 
Hughs, an excellent Cook in London. 
NHE N a Jack or Pike is difcharged of it? Scales and 
Entrails, and well clean’d, prepare a Mixture in the 
following manner, to be few’d up in the Belly of the 
Fifh : Take of grated Bread about one third part, the Ri- Director 
vet. or Liver of the Fifh cut fmall, with Oyllers chopp'd, 
or the Flefh of Eels cut fmall; mix thefe with three or 
four Eggs butter’d in a Sauce-pan, to which add Pepper 
and Salt, with fome dry’d Sweet Morjoram well pouder’d, 
or fuch other Sweet-herbs as are moil grateful to the Pa- 
late, with an Anchovy fhred fmall, fill the Belly of the 
Fifh with the Preparation, and few it up. When this is 
done, cut two fmall Laths of Willow,'or any other Wood, 
except Deal, or fuch as has a Turpentine Juice in it, of 
the length of the Fifh, and lay the Filh upon the Spit, 
with the two Laths upon the Fifh, and bind them toge- 
ther with a Fillet of Linnen, about„an Inch wide, which 
muil be wrapp'd round them in a Screw-like manner, 
and then laid down to the Fire, and balled very well 
with Butter, and drudged with Crumbs of Bread, and 
the fame fort of Sweet-herbs that were ufed in the Mix- 
ture above-mention’d. Where you have not the conve- 
niencyof Oyllers, or Eels, to compofe the afore-mention’d 
Mixture, you may add a larger quantity of butter’d Eggs. 
Where there is the conveniency of an Oven, we may 
bake fuch a Filh with lefs trouble than roafling it ; and 
in that cafe rub the outfide with the Yolk of an Egg, and 
roll it in fome of the Mixture ahove-mention’d, the An- 
chovy and butter’d Eggs excepted, putting fome Vinegar 
and Butter in the Pan. The Sauce to this Fifh is Butter 
melted, a little White-wine, mix’d with a third- 
part of feafon’d Beef Gravy, a Spoonful or two 
of Mufhroom Ketchup, and an Anchovy or two 
difiblved. 
The fmaller Sort of thefe Filh, t. e. fuch as are about a 
Foot long, are moll commonly boiled, but they will do 
well baked, as above dfredled. The fame Sauce may be 
ufed truth the boil d Fifh; or inllead of Beef Gravy, may 
be ufed the Mufhroom Gravy, as diredled in this Work, 
which will have a much finer Relilh than the Beef Gravy. 
In this Month likewife, the Carp is fit for the Table, 
and is commonly much admir’d, if it be well llew’d; o- 
therwife I think it makes but an indifferent Dilh. being 
a Fifh full of Crofs-bones. The Head is accounted much 
the bell part of the Fifh, and is therefore pre Tented as 
a Compliment to the greatell Stranger at the Table. The 
Carp, as it is a Fifh which thrives bell in black, deep, 
franding Waters, is therefore commonly given to talle 
of the Mud ; but to cure this, thofe Carps you intend 
for the Table Ihould be put into a clear Water for a Week 22 
The Country "Lady's 
before you ufe them, that they may purge themfelves. 
You may keep two Brace of large Carps well enough in 
a two-dozen Hamper, plung’d into any part of a River 
where there is a clear Stream, or Trench that is fed by a 
Spring, and they will become of an extraordinary Tweet 
Tafte. And fo we may do with Tench and Eels, when 
we catch them in foul feeding Waters. When your FilTi 
are thus purified, drefs your Carps after the following 
manner: 
To Stezv Carps or Tench 
TAke a Brace of live Carps, fcale them, gut and wafb 
them, and bleed them in the Tails. To that the Blood 
be not loft; for according to all the Receipts for ftew- 
ing this kind of Filb . the Blood, however fmall the Quan- 
tity is of it, muft make part of the Sauce ; Lay thel’e in 
a Stew-pan with the Blood, a Pint of Beef Gravy, a Pint 
of Claret, a large Onion ftuck with Cloves, three large 
Anchovies, a Stick of Horfe-radiib fticed, the peel of half 
a large Lemon, Pepper and Salt at pleafure, a Bunch of 
Sweet-herbs, two or three Spoonfuls of Vinegar. This 
Liquor Ibould nearly cover the Carps ; To that if the 
Gravy and Claret, mention’d above, be not Tufficient, add 
equal quantities of each till you have enough; cover this 
clofe, and fet the Stew-pan over a gentle Fire, till the 
lower-fide of the Fifh are ftew’denough; then turn them, 
and keep them ftewing as before, clofe cover’d, till they 
are enough; after which, lay them in a Difh upon Sippets 
of fry’d Bread, and Train off the Sauce, to be thicken'd 
and brown'd with burnt Butter. This muft be poured 
over the Filb, and the Dilb garnifli’d with the Row or 
Milt, Barberries, and Lemons fticed. 
The fame Method is alfo ufed for ftewing of large 
Roach Dace, and Chubb ; but a Tench ftew’d this way, 
is much better than a Carp. The Back of this Fifh, and 
the Rend are the Pieces which are moft in efteem. 
It is worth our remark, that when we find our Tench 
cover’d with black Scales, they will alwavs tafte muddy, 
which is the fault of the River-Tench about Citnhrilge ; 
but where we find Tench of a golden Colour, we are fare 
of good Filb, that will eat Tweet without the trouble of 
putting ’em into clear Water to purify. Director. 
As there is fome trouble in the drefling of this Fifh, 
they may be llew'dthe Night before they are to be eaten, 
and will keep very well; and half an hour before they 
are to beferv'd up, fet them over the Fire to be thorough- 
ly hot, and then brown their Sauce as before diredled. 
It is to be obferv'd, that to bake thefe Fifli w'ith the 
above Ingredients is as good a Way as the Hewing them. 
It is likewife necelfary to obferve, that all Filb which 
keep a long time alive out of Water, will ficken, and 
their Flefli become unfirm by lying in the Air; therefore, 
if Fifh are to be fent a long Journey, or kept a Day be- 
fore they are dreft. kill them as foon as they are taken out 
of the Water, and the Flefh will be firm. 
I iliall add one thing more concerning the boyling of 
Fifh, which was communicated to me by a very ingeni- 
ous Gentleman, who has made Filhing his Study for many 
Years: He fays, that the Goodnefs of boil'd Fifh confifts 
chiefly in the Firmnefs of the Flefh ; and in the next 
place, that the Fifh parts eafily from the the Bone; to do 
which, he direfts to kill the Fifh immediately after they 
are taken out of the Water ; and when you defign to 
boil 'em, put a large handful of Salt into about two or 
three quarts of Water, and fo in proportion: Put in the 
Fifh while the Water is cold ; then fet them over the 
Fire, and make them boil as quick as polfible, without 
any Cover over the Pan. This is approved to do very 
well. This Receipt is particularly good for boiling of 
Flounders. His Receipt for Sauce for boil'd Fifh, is the 
following. 
Sauce for loiPd Fifh. 
TAke Beef-Gravy, an Onion, a little White-wine, 
fome Horfe-radifh diced. Lemon Peel, an Anchovy, 
a Bunch of Sweet herbs, boil them well together, and 
flrainoffthe Liquor, then put a Spoonful of Mufliroom 
Ketchup to it, and thicken it with Butter mix'd with 
Flower : or for Fall-days the Gravy may be omitted, and 
in the place of it put Mufliroom-Gravy, or a larger quan- 
tity of Mufliroom-Ketchup, or fome of the Fifh-Gravy 
mention'd in February which is good to put in Sauce for 
any fort of Fifh. The Country Lady^s 
As this is the Month when Eels begin to be good, I 
fhall give two or three Receipts for the Drefllng of 
them in the beft manner: The firft for Roafting of Eels, 
or Pitch-cotting them, I had from the Crown at Hufing* 
Stohve fome Years ago; and that for Collaring of Eels, 
from Mr. John Hughs, a celebrated Cook in London. But 
I (ball firft obferve, that the Silver Eel is counted the 
beft; and that allfuch as lie and feed in clear Streams, 
may be ufed without purging them, as I have directed 
above; but all Pond-Eels muft be put into clear Waters 
for a Week, at leaft, before they are ufed, if you would 
have them in Perfection. And now to the Receipts. 
To Roafl or Broil an Eel) from the 
Crown at Bafingftoke, An. 1718. 
TAke a large Eel, rub the Skin well with Salt, then 
gut it and wafb it well; cut off the Head and skin 
it, laying by the Skin in Water and Salt, then lay your 
Eel in a clean Difb, and pour about a Pint of Vinegar 
upon it, letting it remain in the Vinegar near an hour; 
then withdraw your Eel from the Vinegar, and make fe- 
veral Incifions at proper diftances in the Flefh of the 
Back and Sides, which Spaces muft be fill'd with the fol- 
lowing Mixture; 
Take grated Bread, the Yolks, of two or three hard 
Eggs, one Anchovy, minced fmall, fome Sweet-Marjoram 
dry’d and Pouder’d ; or for want of that, fome Green- 
Marjoram fhred fmall: to this add Pepper, Salt, a little 
Ponder of Cloves, or Jamaica. Pepper, and a little frefb 
Butter, to be beat all together in a Stone Mortar, till it 
becomes like a Pafte; with which Mixture fill all the In- 
cifions that you cut in the Eel, and draw the Skin over 
it: then tie the end of the Skin next the Head, and prick 
it with a Pork in feveral Places; then tieit to a Spit to 
roaft, or lay it on a Grid-iron to broil, without bailing. 
The Sauce for this is Butter, Anchovy, a little Pepper, 
and Lemon-juice. Director. 
To Pitchcot Eels. 
TAke a large Eel, clean it well with Salt and Water, 
both the Skin and the Infide, then pull off the 
Skin, and prepare the following Mixture of Bread grated. 
Sweet-herbs pouder’d, or minced final!, fuch as Sweet- 
marjoram, Sage, and fome Pepper and Salt; then rub 
your Eel with Yolks of Eggs, and after that, roll it in 
the Mixture, then draw the Skin over it, and cut your 
Eel infeveral pieces about three Inches in length, dip- 
ping them again in Yolks of Eggs, and after that, in the 
above Mixture : then lay them on the Grid-iron, and. 
when they are enough, ferve them to the Table, with 
the Sauce prefcribed for the Roaffed Eels, above-menti- 
on d. 
To Collar Eels, from Mr. John Hughs? 
a famous Cook in London. 
TAke a large Eel, and fcour the Skin and the Inffde 
very well with Salt, cut off the Head and fplit ic 
down the Back, then lay it abroad upon your Drefler, and 
feafon it well with Spice, Salt, and a good quantity of 
Red Sage minced fmall: mix thefe well and fprinkle the 
Mixture thick upon your Eel, then roll it up, and tye it 
clofe in a thin Cloth at each end, and in the middle; boil 
it theninaftrong Pickle of Vinegar, Water, . Salt, fome 
Spice, and a Bay-leaf or two ; and when it is boiled enough, 
takeout the Eel, and let it ftand till it is quite cold, and 
when the Pickle is cold likewife, pour the Pickle into a 
glazed Earthen Pan, and put your Eel into it to keep 
for life; this will remain good feyeral Weeks, if it is 
kept clofe cover’d. When the Eel is quite cold, take off 
the Cloth. 
The Eel is alfo good in Pyes fry’d and boil’d,'which 
every one knows howto prepare. 
About the end of this Month, the Trout begins to 
come in Seafon; for before this time, ifs Body is co- 
ver’d with little Infedis, which is a Demonftration of it’s 
being fick and unwholefom. The beft way of eating 26 
The Country Lady's 
this Filh is to boil it, and ferve it with Butter and Ancho- 
vy for Sauce; as is commonly pra&is'd about Hungerford, 
Spmhatu-Land, am! other noted Places for Trout. 
If thefeafonisnowmild, about the end of the Month 
the Sap in the Birch-Tree will begin to be very fluent. 
And fo in the Choice of Filh to be feafonable, we mull: 
have regard to the Temper of the Air; for if the Air be 
mild and gentle, fooner or later all parts of the Creation 
are govern’d by it: but when I direft for this Month 
or another any thing to be done, I fuppofe the Temper 
of the Air to be what it is for the generality; but the 
Birch-Tree Sap we will fuppofe begins now to flow, and 
then we are to take the opportunity of making Wine of 
it. The bell Receipt I have met with for making this 
Wine, is the following. 
To make Birch-Wine, From Lady W. 
WHen the Sap of the feirch-Tree will run, cut a 
large Notch in the Bark of the Trunk of the 
Tree, in fuch a place as one may conveniently place a 
VelTelto receive the Sap; which will flow at the Incifion 
very plentifully, without doing any harm to the Tree. 
If the Trees are pretty large you may expeft about a 
Gallon of Liquor from each of them, which mull: be or- 
der’d in the following manner. Take five Gallons of 
the Liquor, to which put five Pounds of Powder-Sugar* 
and two Pounds of Raifins of the Sun ftoned; to this, 
put the Peel of one large Lemon, and about forty large 
frefh Cloves; boil all thefe together, taking of the Scum 
carefully as itrifes; then pour it of into lome Veflel to 
cool, and as foon as it is cool enough to put Yeaft to it, 
work it as you would do Ale for two days, and then 
tunn it, taking care not to flop the Veflel till it has done 
Working, and in a Month’s time it will be ready 
to Bottle. This is not only a very Pleafant, but a very 
Wholefom Wine. 
This Month is efleem’d one of the principal Seafons 
for brewing of Malt Liquors for long keeping; the 
Reafon is, becaufe the Air at this time of the Year is 
temperate, and contributes to the good Working or Fer- 
menting the Drink, wdiich chiefly promotes its Preferva- 
tion and good Keeping: for very cold Weather prevents Director, 
27 
the free Fermentation or Working of Liquors, as well as 
very hot Weather ; fo that if we brew in very cold Wea- 
ther, unlefs we ufe lome Means to warm the Cellar while 
new Drink is Working-it will never clear it felfas it ought 
to do; and the lame Misfortune will it lie under, if in 
very hot Weather the Cellar is not put in a temperate 
fate, the Conlequence of which will be, that fuch Drink 
will be Muddy and Sour, and, perhaps, never recover ; 
or if it does, perhaps not under two or three Years. A- 
gain, fuch Misfortunes are often owing to the badnefs 
of the Cellars; for where they are dug in fpringy Ground, 
orarefubied: to Wet in the Winter, then the Drink will 
chill, ana grow flat and dead. But where Cellars are 
of this fort, it is advifableto make your great Brewings 
in this Month rather than in Oftokr'-, for you may keep 
fuch Cellars temperate in Summer, but cannot warm them 
in Winter, and foyourDrink brewred in MW; will have 
due time to fettle and adjuftit felf before the cold can do 
it any great harm It is advifeablelikew'ifeto build your 
Cellars for keeping of Drink, after fuch a Manner, that 
none of the external Air may come into them; for the 
variation of the Air abroad, was there free admiffion of 
it into the Cellars, wmuldcaufeas many Alterations, in 
the Liqours, and fo would keep them perpetually diflurb'd 
and unfit for Drinking. I know fome curious Gentle- 
men in thefe things, that keep double Doors to their Cel- 
lars, on purpofe that none of the outw'ard Air may get 
into them, and they have good Reafon to boaftof their 
Malt Liquors. The meaning of the double Doors, is to 
keep one Unit while the other is open that the out- 
ward Air may be excluded ; fuch Cellars, if they lie dry 
as they ought to do, are faid to be cool in Summer, and 
warm in Winter, tho’ in reality, they arecondantly the 
fame in point of Temper; they feem indeed cool in hoc 
Weather, but that is becaufe we come into them from a 
hotter abroad; and fo they feem to us w7arm in Winter, 
becaufe we come out of a colder Air to them; fo that they 
are onlvcold or warm comparatively, as the Air we come 
out of is hotter or colder. This is the Cafe, and a Cel- 
lar fliould be thusdifpos’d if we expeft good Drink. As 
for the Brewing Partitfelf I fhall leave that to the Brew- 
ers in the feveral Counties in England, who have mod of 
them different Manners even of Brewing honedly. What 
I fhall chiefly touch upon, befides w7hat I fliall fpeak of The Country Lady's 
Cellaring, will relate to Water, Malt, Hopps, and the keep- 
ing Liquors. 
The heft Water, to fpeak in general, is River Water, 
fuch as is foft, and has partook of the Air and Sun •, for 
this ealily infinuates it felf into the Malt, and extradls 
its Virtue: whereas the hard Waters aftringe and bind 
the Parts of the Malt, fo that its Virtue is not freely com- 
municated to the Liquor. It is a Rule with a Friend of 
mine, that all Water that will mix with Soap is fit for 
Brewing, and he will by no means allow of any other; and 
I have more than once experienc’d, that where the fame 
Quantity of Malt has been itfedto a Barrel of River Wa- 
ter, and the fame to a Barrel of Spring Water, the River 
"Water Brewing has excell’d the other in Strength above 
five degrees in twelve Months, as I prov’d by a fmall Glafs 
Tube with a Seal, and was much preferable to the talle. I 
mull obferve too, that the Malt was not only in Quantity 
the fame for one Barrel as for another, but was the lame 
in Quality, having been all meafur’d from the fame Heap; 
fo alfothe Hops were the fame both in Quality and Quan- 
tity, and the Time of boiling and both work’d in the 
lame manner, and tunn’d and kept in the fame Cellar. Here 
it was plain that there was no difference but the Water, 
and yet one Barrel,was worth two of the other. 
There is one thing which has long puzzled the bell 
Brewers which I fhall here endeavour to explain; and that 
is. where feveral Gentlemen in the fime Town have em- 
ploy'd the fame Brewer, have had the fame Malt, the fame 
Hops, and the fame Water too and brew’d all in the 
fame Month and broach’d their Drink at the fame time ; 
and yet one has had Beer which has been extremely fine, 
flrong, and well tailed, while the others have hardly had 
any worth drinking. I conjecture there may be three 
Reafons for this difference; One may be the different 
Weather which might happen at the different Brewings 
in this Month, which might make an Alteration in the 
Working of the Liquors: or, fecondlv, that the Yeall 
or Barm might be of different forts, or in different Hates, 
wherewith thefe Liquors were work’d ; and thirdly, that 
the Cellars were not equally good: for lam very fenfible, 
the goodneis of fuch Drink, as is brewed for keeping, de- 
pends upon the goodnefs of the Cellars where it is kept; 
for ata Gentleman’s of my Acquaintance, who for many 
Years has ufed the fame Brewer, and the fame Method, his Director. 
Beer is always of the fame Tafte, his Cellars, or Vaults, are 
very dry, and have two or three Doors to them. 
The Vorchefter Beer, which is efteem'd preferable to moil 
of the Malt Liquor in England, is for the moft part brew'd 
of Chalky Water, which is almoft every where in that 
County, and as the Soil is generally Chalk there, I am 
of Opinion, that the Cellars being dug in that dry Soil 
contributes to the good keeping of their Drink, it being 
of aclofe texture, and of a drying quality, fo as to diffipate 
Damps j for damp Cellars, we find by experience, are inju- 
rious to keeping Liquors, as well as deftruftive to the 
Casks. The Malt of this Country is of a pale Colour ; and 
the bell Drink of this County that I have met with to be 
fold, is at a fmall Houfe againft the Church at BUclpoater, 
four Miles beyond Dorchefter, in the Road to Bridport, in 
Vorfetjhire; they broach no Beer till it is a Year old, and has 
had time to mellow. But there muft be fuch Cellars as I 
fpeak of, which inclofe a temperate Air. to ripen Drink 
in; the conftant temperate Air, digefts and foftens thefe 
Malt Liquors, fo that they drink fmooth as Oil; but in 
the Cellars which are unequal, by letting in Heats and 
Golds, the Drink is fubjeftto grow Rale and (harp: For 
this reafon it is that Drink, which is brewed for a long 
Voyage at Sea, fhould be perfectly ripe and fine before it 
is exported, for when it has had fufficient time to digeft in 
the Cask, and is rack'd from the Bottom or Lee, it will 
bear carriage without injury. It is farther to be noted, 
that in proportion to the quantity of Liquor, which is 
enclofed in one Cask, fo will it be a longer or a fborter 
time in ripening. A VelTel which will contain two Hog- 
{heads of Beer, will require twice as much time to perfeft it 
felf as one of a Hogfhead; and from my experience I find 
there fhould be no Veflel ufed forflrong Beer, which we 
defign to keep, lefs than a Hogfhead: for one of that quan- 
tity, if it be fit to draw in a Year, has Body enough to 
fupport ittw'o, or three, or four Years, if it hasftrength 
of Malt and Hopps in it, as the Vorfetjhire Beer has ; and 
this will bear the Sea very well, as we find everyday. 
There is one thing more to be confidered in the pre- 
fervation of Beer ; and that is, when once the Veflel is 
broach'd, we ought to have regard to the time in which 
it will expended .’ for if there happens to be a quick 
Draught for it, then it will laft good to the very bottom ; 
but if there is likely to be a flow draught, then do not 
draw off quite half, before you bottle it, or elfe your The Country Lady’s 
Beer will grow flat, dead, or four. This is obfervedvery 
much among the Curious. 
One great piece of Oeconomy is the good management 
of Small Beer ; for if that is not good, the Drinkers of 
it will be feeble in Summer-time, and incapable offtrong 
Work, and will be very fubjed: to Diftempers; and be- 
fides, when Drink is notgood, a great deal will be thrown 
away. The life of Drink, as well as Meat, is to nourifo 
the Body; and the more Labour there is upon any one. 
the more fubftantial fhould be the Dyet. In the time of 
Harveft I have often feen the bad effeds of had Small-Bcer 
among the Workmen; and in great Families, where that 
Article has not been taken care of, the Apothecaries Bills 
have amounted to twice as much more as the Malt would 
have come to, that would have kept the Servants in ftrengtfi 
and good health; befides one thing more,which lobler- 
ved above, good wholefom Drink is feldom flung away 
by Servants, fothat the fparing of a little Malt ends in 
lofs to the Matter. Where there is good Cellaring, there- 
fore. it is advifeable to brew a flock of Small-Beer, either 
in this Month or Oftoher, or in both Months, and to be 
kept in Hogfheads, ifpoflible: The Beer brewed in March 
to begin drawing in Otfober, and that brewed in Oftober to 
begin in March, for Summer drinking; having this regard 
to the quantity, that a Family of the fame number of 
working Perfons, will drink a third more in Summer than 
in Winter. 
If Water happens to be of a hard nature, it may be foft- 
ened by fetting itexpofed to the Air and Sun, and put- 
ting into it fome Pieces of foft Chalk to infufe, orelle 
when the Water is fet on to boil, for pouring upon the 
Malt, put into it a quantity of Bran, which will help a 
little to foftcn it. 
I fball now mention two or three Particulars relating 
to Malt, which may help thole who are unacquainted with 
brewing: In the firfl place, the general Diflmftions. be- 
tween one Malt and another, is only, that one is high 
dried, the other low dried; that wdiich we call high dried, 
will, bv brewing, produce a Liquor of a brown, deep 
Colour; and the other, which is the low dried, will give 
us a Liquor of a pale Colour. The firfl: is dried in fuch a 
manner, as may be fai'd rather to be fcorch'd than dried, 
and will promote the Gravel and Stone, and is much lefs 
nourifhing than the low dried, or pale Malt, as they call 
it; for all Corn in the moil Ample way is the moflfeed- Director. 
ing to the Body. I have experienc’d too, that the brown 
Malt, eventho’it be well brew’d, willfooner turn (harp 
than the pale Malt, if that be fairly brewed. I knew a 
Gentleman in Northamptonjlnre who dried his Malt upon the 
Leads of a Houfe, and has made very good Drink of it: And 
the Method of drying Malt by hot Air, which was once 
propofed to the Publick, will do very well for a fmall 
quantity, but’tis much too tedious to be ever rendered 
profitable; however, any means that can be ufed to dry 
Malt without parching of it, will certainly contribute to 
the goodnefs of the Malt. At the Greyhound at Marlborough 
I have drank of the paleft-colouf’d Ale I ever faw, and the 
bell tailed, and the ftrongeft that I have met with. In 
that place they dry their Malt very tenderly, and brew 
with chalky Water, and their Cellars are dug in Chalk : So 
at the Crown at Hoc by ell near Bifhop-Starfori in HertfordJJnre, i$ 
excellent Beer of a pale Colour, ftrong, and w'ell tailed; 
there the Malt is tenderly dried and the Soil chalky : like- 
wife at Nottingham and Darby they brew with pale Malt, 
chalky Water, and their Cellars are dug in Chalk. 
Thefe Places are noted for the Goodnefs of their Ale all 
over England, infomuch that it has been computed, that 
there has been above two Hundred Thoufand Pounds 
Worth of Ale fold in and about London under the Denomi- 
nation of Nottingham, Derby, Dorchefier, &c. in one Year’s 
time: but it is not in that we mull expedl to talle 
thefe Liquors in Perfe&ion; for it is rare to find any of 
them there without being adulterated, or elfe fuch Liquors 
are fold for them as are unskilful Imitations of them; and 
1 may add. are unwholefom into the bargain. While lam 
writing this, a Gentleman of good Judgment in this Af- 
fair informs me, that the brown Malt he finds makes the 
bell Drink when it is brew’d with acoarfeßiver Water, 
fuch as that of the River Thames about London; and that like- 
Wife being brew’d with fuch Water, it makes very good 
Ale: But that it will not keep above fix Months, without 
turning Hale, and a little fharp, eventho’ he allows four- 
teen Bulhels to the Hoglhead. He adds, that hehas try’d 
the high dry’d Malt to brew Beer with for keeping, and 
Hopp’d it accordingly; and yet he could never brew it fo 
as to drink foft and mellow, like that brew’d with pale 
Malt. There is an acid Quality in the high-dry’d Malt, 
which occafions that Dillemper commonly called the Heart- 
burn, in thofe that drink of the Ale or Beer made of it. 
When I mention Malt, in what I have already faid above. The Country Lady's 
I mean only Malt made of Barley ; for Wheat-malt, 
Pea-malt, or thefe mix’d with Barly-malt, tho’ they pro- 
duce a high-colour’d Liquor, will keep many Years, 
and drink foft and fmooth; but then they have the Mum- 
Flavour. I have known fome People, who ufed Brew- 
ing with high-dry’d Barley-Malt, to put a Bag, con- 
taining about three Pints of Wheat, into every Hogfhead 
of Drink, and that has fined it, and made it to drink mel- 
low: others I have feen put about three Pints of Wheat- 
malt into a Hogfhead, which has produced the fameEffedh 
But all Malt-Liquors, however they may be well-brew’d, 
may be fpoiled by bad Cellaring, and be now and then 
fubjeft to ferment in the Cask, and confequently turn 
thick and four. The beft way to help this, and bring the 
Drink to it felf, is to open the Bung of the Cask for two 
or three Days, and if that does not Hop the Fermentation, 
then put about two or three Pounds of Oyfler-fhells walh'd 
and dry’dwell in an Oven, and then beaten to fine Pow- 
der and ftirring it a little, it will prefently fettle the 
Drink, make it fine, and take off the fharp Tafte of it; and 
asfoon as that is done, draw it off into another VefTel, and 
put a fmall Bag of Wheat or Wheat-malt into it, as above 
dire&ed.or in proportion, as the VefTel is larger or fmaller. 
Sometimes fuch Fermentations will happen in Drink, by 
change of Weather, if it is in a bad Cellar, and it will 
in a few Months fall fine of it felf, and grow mellow. 
It is remarkable, that high-dry’d Maltfhould not be u- 
fed in brewing till it has been ground ten Days, or a Fort- 
night, it yields much ftronger Drink than the fame quan- 
tity ofMaltfrcfh ground ; but if you defign to keep Malt 
fometime before you ufe it, you mufl take care to keep it 
very dry, and the Air at that time fhould likewife be dry. 
And as for pale Malt, which has not partaken fo much of 
the Fire, it mufl not remain ground above a Week before 
you ufe it. 
As for Hopps, the neweft are much the befr, tho’ they 
will remain very good two Years; but after that, they 
begin to decay, and lofe their good Flavour, unlefs great 
Quantities have been kept together; for in that cafe they 
will keep much longer good than in fmall Quantities. 
Thefe for their better prefervation, fiiould be kept in a 
very dry Place, tho’ the Dealers in them rather chufe 
fuch Places as are moderately between moiftand dry, that 
they may not lofe of their Weight;. I cannot help tak- 
ing notice here of a Method which was ufed to fomeftale Director. 
and decay’d Hopps the laft Year 172Y, to make them re- 
cover their Bitternefs; which was to unbag them, and 
fprinkle them with Aloes and Water, which, together 
with the badnefs of the Malt of the fame Years growth, 
fpoil’d great quantities of Drink about London’, for even 
where the Water, the Malt, and the Brewer, and Cellars 
are good, a bad Hop will fpoil all : So that every one 6f 
thefe Particulars fhould be well-chofen before the Brew- 
ing is fet about, or elfe we muft expedt but a bad Ac- 
count of our Labour. And fo likewife the Yeaft or Barm 
that you work your Drink with, muft be well confider- 
ed, or a good Brewing may be fpoil’d by that alone;and 
be fure that be always provided before you begin Brew- 
ing, for your Wort will not ftay for it. 
In fome remote Places from Towns it is pradlifed to 
dip Whisks into Yeaft, and beat it well, and fb hang 
up the Whisks with the Yeaft in them to dry ; and if 
there is no Brewing till two Months afterwards, the beat- 
ing and ftirring one of thefe Whisks in new Wort, will 
raife a Working or Fermentation in it. It is a Rule, 
that all Drink fhould be work’d in the Tun. or Keel, be- 
fore it be put in the Vcflel, or elfe It will not eafily 
grow fine. Some follow the Rule of beating down the 
Yeaft pretty often while it is in the Tun, and keep it 
there working for two or three Days, obferving to put it 
in the Veflel juft when the Yeaft begins to fall. This 
Drink is commonly very fine; whereas that, which is 
put into the Veftel quickly after ’tis brew’d, will not be 
fine in many Months. 
We may yet obferve, that with relation to the Seafon 
for brewing of Drink for keeping, if the Cellars are fub- 
jedt to the heat of the Sun, or warm Summer Air, it is 
beft to brew in Otfober, that the Drink may have time to 
digeft before the warm Seafon comespn. And if Cellars 
are inclinable to Damps, and to receive Water, the beft 
time is to brew in March, and I know fome experienced 
Brewers, who always chufe the brewing of Pale Malt irt 
March, and the Brown in Oftober; for they guels that the 
Pale-Malt being made with a lefler degree of Fire than the 
other, wants the Summer-Seafon to ripen in; and fo oti 
the contrary, the Brown having had a larger fliare of the 
Fire to dry it, is more capable of defending it felf againft 
the cold of the Winter-Seafon. But how far thefe Rea- 
sons maybe juft, I ftiall not pretend to determine; but 
in fucha Work as this, nothing fhould be omitted that 34 
The Country Lady’s 
inay contribute to give the lead Hint towards meliora- 
ting lb valuable a Manufacture ; the Artills in the Brew ing 
Way are at liberty to judge as they pleafe. 
But when we have been careful in all the above Parti- 
culars, if the Casks are not in good order, Hill the Brew- 
ing may be fpoil’d. New Casks are apt to give Drink an 
ill Tafle, if they are not well fcalded and feafon’d ieveral 
Daysfucceflively, before theyare putin ufe; and for old 
Casks, if they Hand any time outofufe. they are apt to 
grow7 muHy; unflack’d Lime, about a Gallon to a Hog- 
mead, with about fix Gallons of Water put in with it, 
and the Hogfhead prefently Hopp'd up. will clear it of 
its Taint, if the fame be repeated four or rive times; or 
burning of Linnen dipp’d in Brimflone, to be dole Hop- 
ped in a Cask, three or four times repeated, will do the 
lame: or elfe put Water in your Veflels, and throw in 
Home burning Coals, and Hop them dole, will do the like, 
if it be often repeated. 
I have now but little more to fay about the Manage- 
ment of Drink, and that is concerning the Bottling of it. 
The Bottles firfl mufl be well clean’d and dry’d; for wet 
JBottles will make the Drink turn mouldy, or motherry, 
as they call it; and by wet Bottles, many Veflels of good 
Drink are fpoil’d ; but if the Bottles are clean and dry, 
3'et if the Corks are not new and found, the drink is flill 
liable to be damaged; for if the Air can get into the Bot- 
tles, the Drink will grow' Fat and will never rife. I have 
known many who have flatter’d themfelves that they 
knew how to befaving, and have ufed old Corks on this 
occafion. that have fpoiled as much Liquor as has flood 
them in four or rive Pounds, only for want of layingout 
three or four fhillings. If Bottles are cork’d as they fbould 
be, it is hard to pull out the Corks without a Screw, and 
to be Hire to draw the Cork without breaking, the Screw- 
ought to go through the Cork, and then the Air mufl ne- 
ceflarily find a Paflage where the Screw' has pafs d. and 
therefore the Cork is good for nothing; or if a Cork has 
once been in a Bottle, and has been drawn without a Screw, 
yet that Cork will turn mufly as foon as it is expofpd to 
the Air, and will communicate its ill Flavour to the Bot- 
tle w'hereitis next put, and fpoil the Drink, that way. 
In the choice of Corks, chufe thole that are foft, and 
clear from Specks, and lay them in Water a day or two 
before you ufe them; but let them dry again before you 
put them in the Bottles, left they fbould happen to turn Director. 
mouldy: with this care you may make good Drink, and 
preferve it to anlwer your expectation. 
In the bottling of Drink, you may alfoobferve, that 
the top and middle of the Hogfhead is the flrongefl, and 
will fooner rife in the Bottles than the bottom; And 
■when once you begin to Bottlea Veflel of any Liquor, be 
fure not to leave it till all is compleated, for elfe you will 
have fomeof one Tafle and fome of another. 
If you find that a Veflel of Drink begins to grow flat, 
whiHl it is in common draught, bottle it, and into every 
Bottle put a piece of Loaf-Sugar, about the quan- 
tity of a Walnut, which wfill make the Drink rife and come 
toitfelf; and to forward its ,ripening. you may let fome 
Bottles in Hay in a warm place; but Straw wall not a fi- 
lm its ripening. 
Where there are not good Cellars, I have knowm Holes 
iunk in the Ground, and large Oil Jars put into them, 
and the Earth filled clofe about the fides: One of thefe 
Jars may hold about a dozen quart Bottles, and will keep 
the Drink very well; but the tops of the Jars muft be 
kept dole cover'd up. And in Winter-time, when the 
Weather is frofly. fhut up all the Lights or Windows 
into fuch Cellars, and cover them dole with frefh Horfie- 
Dung, or Horfe-Litter; but stis much better to have no 
Lights or Windows at all to any Cellar, for ths reafons 
I have given above. 
If there has been opportunity of brewing a good flock 
of Small Beer in March and October, fome of it mav be bot- 
tled at fix Months end, putting into every Bottle a lump 
of Loaf-Sugar as bigas a Walnut; thisefpecially will be 
very refreshing Drink in the Summer : Or if you hap- 
pen to brew in Summer, and are defirous of brisk Small 
Beer, bottle it, as above, as loon as it has done work 
ing. 
35 
APRIL. 
FROM the beginning of this Month, the Perch is in 
great Perfection, and holds good till Winter. One The Country Lady's 
of the ways of dreeing this Fifh, according to the Hollan- 
ders, and which is much admired by Travellers, is after the 
following manner, and is called Water-Soochy. 
To make a Water-Soochy. 
TAKE Perch about five Inches long, fcale and clean 
them well ; then lay them in a Difh, and pour Vine- 
gar'upon them, and let them lie an Hour in it; after 
which put them into aSkellet with Water and Salt, fome 
Parfley Leaves and Parfley Roots, well wafhfd and fcrap- 
ed : let thefe boil over a quick Fire till they are enough, 
and then pour the Fifh, Roots, and Water into a Soop- 
Difh, and ferve them up hot with a Garnilh about the 
Difh of Lemon lliced. Thefe Fifh and Roots are com- 
monly eaten wfith Bread and Butter in Holland, or there 
may be melted Butter in a little Bafon for thofe who chufe 
it. It is to be noted, that the Parfley Roots mull be taken 
before they run to Seed; and if they happen to be very large, 
they fhould be boiled by themfelves, for they will require 
more boiling than the Fifh. This I had from Mr. Rozelli 
at the Hague. 
The following Receipt for drefting of Perch, I had like- 
wife from the fame Perfon, and is an excellent Difh. 
To prepare Perch with Mufhrooms. 
PIC FC, and dean, and cue your Muflirooms into, 
fmall pieces, and put them in a Sauce-pan, to ftew 
tender without any Liquor, but what will come from 
them ; then pour off their Liquor, and put a little Cream 
to them j having ready at the fame time, a Brace of large 
Perch well fealed, waflLd, and cut in Fillets or thick Sli- 
ces, and parboiled : put your Perch thus prepared to your 
Muflirooms, and with them the Yolks of three Eggs beat- 
en, fome Parfley boiled and cut fmall, fome Nutmeg gra- 
ted, a little Salt, and a little Lemon-Juice : keep all thefe 
ftirring gently over a flow Fire, taking care not to break 
your Fifh; and when they are enough, garnifh them with 
Slices of Lemon, and pickled Barberries. 
The following general Sauce I had from the fame Per- 
ron 3 it is always ready to be ufed with every kind of Director. 
Flefh, Fowl, or Fifh, that require rich Sauces, and will 
keep good twelve Months. 
A Travelling Sauce. 
TAke two Quarts of Claret, a* quarter of a Pint of 
Vinegar, and as much Ver-juice j put thefe toge- 
ther in a new Stone-Jarr, that will admit of being if op’d 
clofe : put to this a quarter of a Pound of Salt that has 
been well dry’d over the Fire, an Ounce of Black-Pepper, 
a Drachm of Nutmeg beaten fine, and as much Cloves : 
a Scruple of Ginger, two or three little Bits of dry’d 
Orange-Peel, half an Ounce of Muftard-Seed bruifed, half 
a dozen Shallots bruifed a little, five or fix Bay-Leaves, a 
little Sprig of Sweet Bafil, or Sweet Marjoram, a Sprig of 
Thyme, and a little Cinnamon ; then flop your Jarr 
dole, and let the Mixture infufe for twenty-four Hours 
upon hot Embers : when this is done, ftrain your Com- 
pofition through a Linnen-Cloth, till you have exprefs’d 
as much Liquor as pofTible. and put it in a dry Stone- 
Bottle or Jarr. and flop it clofe as foon as ’tis cold. You 
muft keep this in a dry Place, and it will remain good 
twelve Months. This is a good Companion for Travel- 
lers, who more frequently find good Meat than good 
Cooks. My Author adds, that thofe who are Admirers 
of the Tafte of Garlick, may add it to this Sauce, or di- 
minifti, or leave out any particular Ingredient that they 
do not approve of. It may alfo be made of Water on- 
ly, or of Ver-juice, or of Wine, or of Orange or Lemon- 
Juice ; but if it is made of Water, it will keep but a 
Month good : if it be made of Ver-juice, it will laft good 
three Months; if w'e-make it of Vinegar, it will laft a 
Year ;or of Wine, it will laft as long. Life a little of 
this at a time, ftirring it well when you ufe it. 
In this Month I likewife judge it will be a good Sea- 
fon, to make the following curious Preparation for the 
ufe of Gentlemen that travel *, the Life of which I eftcen 
to be of extraordinary Service, to fuch as travel in wild 
and open Countries, where few or no Provifions ar to 
be met with ; and it will be of no Ids Benefit to uch 
Families, as have not immediate Recourfe to Markets or' 
the Readinefs of it for making of Soups, or its life, 
where Gravy is required : and particularly to rhof£ bat 
travel, the lightnefs of its Carriage, the Imdl room it 38 
The Country Lady's 
takes up, and the eafy way of putting it in life, renders 
it extremely ferviceable. This is what one may call 
Veal-Glue. 
To make Veal-Glue? or to 
be carried in the Pocket. 
TAke a Leg of Veal, flrip it of the Skin and the Fat, 
then take all the Mufcular or fieflry Parts from the 
Bones ; boil this Flefh gently in fuch a quantity of 
Water, and fo long a time, till the Liquor will make a 
flrong Jelly when Jtis cold ; this you may try by raking 
out a fmall Spoonful now and then, and letting it cool. 
Here it is to be fuppofed, that tho’ it will jelly prefentiy 
in fmall quantities, yet all the Juice of the Meat may not 
be extraded j however, w'hen you find it very flrong, 
llrain the Liquor thro’ a Sieve, and let it fettle, then pro- 
vide a large Stew-Pan with Water, and fome China-Cups, 
or glazed Earthen-Ware ; fill thefe Cups with- the Jelly 
taken clear from the Settling, and fet them in the Stew- 
Pan of Water, and let the Water boil gently till the Jelly 
becomes thick as Glue : after which, let them Hand to 
cool, and then turn out the Glue upon a piece of new 
Flannel, which will draw out the Moiflure ; turn them 
in fix or eight Hours, and put them upon a frefh Flan- 
nel, and fo continue to do till they are quite dry, and 
keep it in a dry warm Place : this will harden fo much, 
that it will be fliff and hard as Glue in a little time, and 
may be carried in the Pocket without Inconvenience. 
We are toufethisby boiling about a Pint of Water, and 
pouring it upon a Piece of the Glue or Cake of the big- 
nefs of a fmall Walnut, and flirting it with a Spoon till 
the Cake dilfolves, which will make very flrong good 
Broth. As for the Seafoning part, every one may add 
Pepper and Salt as they pleafe, for there mufl be no- 
thing of that kind put among the Veal when we make the 
Glue, forany thing of that fort would make it mouldy. 
Some of this fort of Cake Gravev has lately been fold, 
as T am inform'd at fome of the Taverns near Temple-Bar, 
where I fuppofe. it may now he had. As I have ob- 
ferv d above, that there is nothing of Seafoning in this 
Soup, fo there mav be always added what we defire* eir 
ther of Spices or Herbs, to make it favory to the Palate; Director. 
but it mult be noted, that all the Herbs that are ufed 
on this occafion, muft be boiled tender in plain Water, 
and that Water mtift be ufed to pour upon the Cake 
Gravey inftead of Ample Water; fo may a Difh of good 
Soup be made without trouble, only allowing the Pro- 
portion if Cake Gravey anfwering to the above-faid 
Direction. Or if Gravey be wanted for Sauce, double 
the Quantity may be ufed that is prefcribed for Broth 
or Soup. I am inform’d by a Perfon of Honour, that 
Upon this Foundation, there has been made a Cake 
Gravey of Beef, which for high Sauces and flrong Sto- 
machs, is ftill of good ufe ; and therefore I fhall here 
give the Method of it. 
To make Cake-Soup of Beef ] &c. 
TAke a Leg, or what they call in fome Places a 
Shin of Beef, prepare it as prefcribed above for 
the Leg of Veal, and ufe the mufcular parts only, as 
directed in the foregoing Receipt; do every thing as a- 
bove-mention'd, and you will have a Beef Glue, which, 
for Sauces, may be more definable in a Country Houfe, 
as Beef is of the flrongeft: nature of any Flefli. Some 
prefcribe to add to the Flefli of the Leg of Beef, the 
Flefli of two old Hares, and of old Cocks to flrengthen 
it the more; this may be done at pleafure, but the Foun- 
dation of all thefe Cake Graveys or Glues is the firft. 
Thefe indeed are good for Soups and Sauces, and may 
be enrich’d by Cellary, Cherville, beat Chards, Leaks, 
or other Soup Herbs. A little of this is alfo good to 
put into Sauces, either of Flefli, Fifli, or Fowl, and will- 
make a fine mixture with the Travelling Sauce. So 
that whenever there is mentioned the life of Gravey 
in any of the Receipts contained in this Treatife, this 
may be ufed on Feaft-Days, and the Mufliroom Gravey, 
or Travelling Sauce on Faft-Days. 
This is alfo a time of the Year when potted Meats 
begin to come in fafliion ; to do which, the following 
Receipt may be an Example.  The Country JLddy^ 
40 
To pot a Leg of Beef to imitate potted 
Venifon? from Col, Bradbury of 
Wicken-Hall. 
PRovide a Leg of Beef, and take off the Skin as whole 
as you can, then cut off' all the Flefli, and feafon 
it with Pepper, Salt, and All-fpice; then break the Bones 
and take out what Marrow you can to mix among your 
llices of Beef, which muff be put in a deep Earthen Pot; 
cover then the whole with the Skin, and lay the Bones 
over that, covering all with Paper, and tying it down 
dole; after which, bake it with grated Bread, and let 
it Hand in the Oven all Night. When this is done, 
take off the Bones and the Skin, and clear it from the 
Liquor as well as you can, then put the Meat into a 
Wooden Bowl, and beat it as fmall as poflible with a 
Wooden Peftle, often putting in fome Butter, and fome 
of the Fat of the Marrow, which will fwim upon the 
Gravey, but fuffer none of the Gravey to go in with 
it: When this is beat enough, while it is warm, butter 
the Bottoms and Sides of the Pan which you defign to 
keep it in, and prefs down your Meat in it as hard as 
poffible; when that is done, cover it with melted Butter, 
if you Would have your Meat look red, rub it with a 
little Sak-peter before you feafon it. By the fame Me- 
thod you may pot Venifon, Mutton, or what Flefh elfe 
you pieafe, obferving that ’tis only the flefliy or muf- 
dular Parts that are ufed in that way ; and that they 
friuft be feafon-d and bak’d till they are tender, and then 
beat into a fort of Pafte, with a little Butter added now 
and then while the Meat is beating. Keep thefe Meats 
iri a cool dry Place, and you may preferve them- good 
feveral Weeks. If you delire to pot a Hare, take the 
following Receipt. 
To Pot a Harey from the fame. 
TAke a Hare and bone it, then mince the Flefli 
very fmall, with a Pound of the Fat of Bacon; 
after which, beat thefe in a Mortar, and then feafon Director. 
41 
your Meat with Pepper, Salt, Cloves and Mace, adding 
to it an Ounce of Salt-peter: mix all thefe well, and let 
the Meat lie twenty-four Hours, then put it in an ear- 
then glazed Pot, and bake it three Hours; after which, 
take it out, and dry it from the Gravey, then return 
it to the Pot again, and cover it with clarified But- 
ter. This Receipt might have been put in fome of the 
former Months, as the Hare is then in feafon; but as it 
depends upon the foregoing Receipt, I thought conve- 
nient to infert it in this Place ; however, a Jack-Hare 
may now be drefs’d in this fafhion, but the Doe-Hare 
are now either with Young, or have Young-ones, fo 
that they are out of feafon. Thefe potted Meats are 
ufeful in Houfe-keeping, being always ready for the 
Table; So likewife the following Receipt for Collar’d 
Beef is of the fame fervice. 
To Collar Beef. 
GET the Rand or Flank of Beef cut about a foot 
in length ; bone it, and then mix two Ounces of 
Salt-peter, with a good handful of common Salt: after 
which, carbonade the outward Skin of the Beef, and rub 
the whole well with the Salts, letting it lie for twenty- 
four hours in Salt before you collar it; but obferving 
to turn it twice a day, at leaft, whilft it is in Salt. When 
it has lain thus to feafon, get fome Sweet-Marjoram, a 
little Winter-Savoury, fome Red Sage-leaves, and a lit- 
tle Thyme, and Hired them fmall ; among which put 
an Ounce of Pepper ground fmall, half an Ounce of 
Cloves and Mace beat, and a handful of Salt; mix thefe 
together, and ftrew the mixture thick over the infide 
of your Meat, that when it is roll’d up, it may be equal- 
ly bound in with the Turnings of the Beef; then pro- 
vide fome thin Slices of the fame Beef to lay before the 
firft Turn, that the Collar may not be hollow in the 
middle. This mull be roll’d as hard as poflible, fo that 
every Part is equally prefs’d to each other; then get 
fome Tape about an Inch wide, and bind it hard about 
your Collar of Beef, in a Screw-like manner, till you 
have clofed your Collar from top to bottom as tight 
as can be ; obferving to bind the top and bottom in 
an extraordinary manner with ftrong Packthread. Put 
this in a glazed earthen Pan, with as much Claret as  .The Country Lady's 
will cover it, putting over the whole fome coarfe Pafte, 
and fend it to the Oven to ftand five or fix Hours. 
When it is baked enough, take out your Collar, and 
fet it upright till it fie cold, and then take off the Fil- 
lets, or the Tape that braced it together, and keep it 
for ufe. This is cut in thin Slices, and’ eaten with 
Vinegar, as are mod of the CollarJd-meats and Potted- 
meats. This Example is enough for any one either to 
Collar other Meats by, only obferving tFat fuch Flcfh 
as is tender, as Pig and a Bread: of Veal, muff not he 
falted before they are collar'd, and the Spice of Herbs 
to be roll'd up with them, may be at difcrepon 5 but 
for the boiling or baking, the Time muft: be in propor- 
tion to their Size, or natural Tendernefs. It muff ne- 
Verthelefs be obl’erved, that they muft be baked or boil- 
ed till all the Gravey is out of them ; for the Gravey 
being in them, will contribute to their fpoiling by 
growing mufty, or other ways foetid. 
We have now Flounders in good Perfection, and be- 
fides the common Way of Drefftng them either by boil- 
ing them, as mention'd in the former Months they are 
alio fometimes fried and fometimes broil’d ; but the 
following is after fuch a manner, as is extremely agree- 
able. and will preferve them good a long time. Thefe, 
or other Fill) fry’d, are kept after the fame manner: 
the Receipt I had from a worthy Gentleman,' Where I eat 
fome in great Perfection. 
Pickled Fijh. From Aaron Harring- 
ton, Efq. 
LET the Fifli be fry’d after the common manner, and 
when they are cold lay them in a DilE, and pom- 
on the following Pickle : Water and Vinegar equal 
quantities, Jamaica Pepper, Pepper and Salt, a little Mace, 
a few Bav-leaves, and fome White-wine : when thefe 
have boiled together, pour the Pickle on the Fifh while 
it is not too hot; thefe eat extremely well. 
Trouts are now in good perfection in the South 
parts of our Country ; that is. where the Weather has 
been favourable in the former Month ; and then befides 
the common way of boiling them we may have them 
potted, which will make them as valuable as potted 
Charrs, which are a fort of Trout. Director. 
43 
To pott Trouts. From Mrs. R. S. of 
Preilon in Lancafhire, 
SCale and clean youi4 Trouts very well, walh them 
in Vinegar, and flit them down the Back, after 
which put Pepper and Salt into the Incifion, and on 
their Outfides, and let them lie upon a Dilb three Hours, 
then lay them in an earthen glar'd Pan, with pieces 
of Butter upon .them, and put them in an Oven two 
Hours, if they are Trouts fourteen Inches long, or lefs 
in proportion, taking care to tie fame Paper clofe o- 
ver the Pan. When this is done, take away from them 
all the Liquor, and put them in a Pot, and as foon as 
they are quite Cold, pour foriie clarified Butter upon 
them to cover them : Thefe will eat as well as potted 
Charts. Some will take out the Bone upon flitting the 
Back, and thefe have been often taken for Charts, 
fho’ I don’t know above two Places where the Charts 
are, one is a Pool where a River or Brook runs thro’ 
in Ldncajhire, and the other is''in a Pool at Hunt, with- 
in four Miles of Caernarvon. But the Charr is of the 
Trout kind, and it rauft be a good judge in Fifb to 
difHflguitb one from another however, there is foma 
fmall difference, which the Criticks’in fifhing take no- 
tice of. 
Fifh may alfo be kept in pickle feVerat Weeks, as the 
Jack and Trout efpecially are agreeable Varieties. 
This time is a proper Seafon for making a pleafant 
and ffrong Wine of Malagaßaifins. which will keep good 
many Years, and among the bcft Judges of Wine is 
much admired j it is not unlike a ftrong Mountain 
Wine, at this time alfo the Raifins are very cheap. 
To make Raijln Wine. 
TAke half a hundred weight of Malaga Raifins, pick 
them clean from the Stalks, and chop the Raifins 
fmall, then put them into a large Tub, and boil ten 
Gallons of River Water, or fuch Water as is Toft, and 
po.ur it hot upon them ; let this be ftirr’d twice or 
thrice eve*7 Day for twelve Days fuccefllvely, and then 44 
The Country Lady^s 
pour the Liquor into a Cask, and make a Toaft of Bread, 
and while it is hot fpread it on both fides with Yeaft or 
Barm, and put it into the Velfel to the Wine, and it 
will make it ferment gently, which you may know by 
its making a hiding Noife ; during the time of working, 
the Bung of the Velfel mud: be left open, and as foon 
as that is over, flop it up clpfe. This will be fine and 
fit for Drinking in about four Months time; but if you 
make twice the quantity, it fhpuld hand five or fix 
Months before you broach it : Obferve that you fet it 
in a good Cellar, fuch as I have mentioned in the Month 
of March, under the Article of Brewing. 
To make Fronteniac Wine* 
THE foregoing Receipt mud be followed in every par- 
ticulr, only when you put it into the Velfel, add 
to it fome of the Syrup of the white Fronteniac Grape, 
which we may make in England, tho3 the Seafon is not 
favourable enough to ripen that fort of Grape ; for iri 
a bad Year, when the w’hite Fronteniac, or the Mufca- 
della Grapes are hard and unripe, and without Flavour, 
yet if you bake them they will take the rich Flavour, 
wdiich a good Ibare of Sun would have given them. 
You may either bake the Fronteniac Grapes with Sugar, 
or boil them to a Syrup of their Juice, about a Quart 
of which Syrup will be enough to put to five Quarts of 
the Raifin Wine. When thefe have work'd togethef, 
and {food a time, as directed in the foregoing Receipt, 
you will have a Fronteniac Wine of as rich a Flavour as 
the French fort, befides the Pleafure of knowing that all 
the Ingredients are wholefome. 
This Month is the principal time for Afparagus, which 
every one knows how to prepare in the common way; 
but there are fome particulars relating to the fitting them 
for the Table, which I had from a curious Gentleman 
it Antwerp, which I Avail here fet down. 
To prefers Afparagus, 
CUT away all the hard part of your Afparagus, ar|d 
juft boil them up with Butter and Salt, then fling 
them into cold Water, and prefently take them out again Director. 
snd let them drain; when they are cold, put them in a 
Gally-pot, large enough for them to lie without bend- 
ing, putting to them fome whole Cloves, Tome Salt, 
and as much Vinegar and Water, in equal Quantities, 
as will cover them half an Inch, than take afingleLin- 
nen Cloth, and let it into the Pot upon the Water, 
and pour melted Butter over it, and keep them in a 
temperate Place: When you ufe them, lay them to fteep 
in warm Water, and drefs them as you would do frefh 
Afparagus. It is to be noted, that in Holland, and mod 
Places abroad, the Afparagus is always white, which is 
done according to a Method which I have inferted in 
my other Works; the Method of bringing them to Table 
the foreign Way, is to ferve them with melted Butter, 
Salt, Vinegar, and Nutmeg grated. 
The Tops or Heads of Afparagus being broken in 
fmall Pieces and boiled, are -ufed in Soups like green 
Peafe. 
Afparagus in Cream, From the fame. 
BReak the Tops of yodr Afparagus in fmall Pieces, then 
blanch them a little in boiling Water, or par- 
boil after which put them in a Stew-pan or Fry- 
ing-pan with Butter or Hog's Lard, and let them remain 
a little while over a brisk Fire, taking care that they 
are not too greafy, but well drain'd; then put them in 
a clean Stew-pan with fome Milk and Cream, a gentle 
Seafoning of Salt and Spice, with a fmall Bunch of fweet 
Herbs; and juft when they are enough, add to them the 
Yolks of two or three Eggs beaten, with a little Cream 
to bind your Sauce. 
The Greens, which are now fit for boiling, are Sprouts 
of Cabbage, and young Cabbage-plants, which every 
one knows how to prepare. There is alfo Spinage, 
which is heft ftew'd without any Water, its own Juice 
being fufftcient; and we have ftill plenty of Lupines, 
that is, the flowring Stalks of Turnips, which eat very 
agreeably; they fhould be gather'd about the length of 
Afparagus, when the Tops are knotted for flowering, 
and the Strings in the Outfide of the Stalks ftripp’d from 
them ; then tie them in Bunches, as you do Afparagus, 
and put them in boiling Water with fome Salt, and jet 
ihem boil three or four Minutes, then lay them to drain. The Country Lady s 
without prefling, and ferve them to Table as you would 
do Afparagus. The fame Way is ufed in the Manage- 
ment of Brocoli. 
The Middle of this Month the Cowflip is in flower, or 
as fome call it the Peigle. and now is the Seafon to make 
a moll Pleafant Wine of the Flowers. This Receipt is 
the heft I have met with. 
To make Peigle5 or Cowflip Wine, 
From Mrs. E. 13. 
TO three Gallons of Wine, put fix Pounds of fine 
Sugar, boil thefe together half an Hour, and as 
the Scum riles, take it off; then fet the Liquor to cool, 
and when it is quite cold, take a Spoonful of the bell: 
Ale-Yeaft, and beat it well with three Ounces of Syrup 
of Citron, or Syrup of Lemon ; mix thefe very well to- 
gether with the Liquor; and then put into it a Pound 
and three Quarters of the yellow Part of the Cowr- 
flip. or Peigle Flowers, which mull: be cut from the 
Stalks a little before-hand, but no other Parc mull be 
ufed: Let thefe infufe and work three Days in art Earthen 
Velfel. cover’d with a Cloth; then ftrain them, and put 
your Liquor into a clean dry Cask, and let it Hand to- 
fettle three Weeks, or a Month before you bottle it. 
MAY. 
AS this is the bufy Mdnth in the Dairy, I fhall here 
infert the Remarks I have by me concerning the 
making of Cheefes \ and in this Work it is Hrft necef- 
farv to know how to manage the Rennet. 
The Rennet is made of the Calves Bag, which is taken 
as loon as the Calf is killed, and fcour’d Infide and 
Outfide with Salt, after having firft difcharg’d, it of the 
Curd, which is always found in it; this Curd mull 
likewife be well wafli’d in a Cullender with Water, 
and the Hairs pick’d out of it till it becomes very white. Director. 
47 
then return the Gurd again into the Bag, and add to it 
two good Handfuls of Salt, and fhut the Mouth of the 
Bag clofewith a Skewer, then lay the Bag in an Earthen 
P£n, and cover it clofe, and keep it in a dry Place; 
this will remain lit for ufe twelve Months. When you 
would ufe it, boil a Quart of Water, after you have 
faked it, fo as to bear an Egg, and letting it fland to 
be quite cold, pour it into the Bag, and prick the Bag 
full of very imall Holes, and lay it in a clean Pan for 
ule. While this Rennet is frefh, a Spoonful of the Li- 
quor will turn or let about fixteen or twenty Gallons 
of Milk; bat as it is longer kept, it grows weaker, 
and muft be ufed in greater Quantity: This Rennet will 
la ft good about a Month. This is the [flex and Hertford- 
Jhire Way. 
Another Way of preparing of Rennet Bags, is to take 
the Calves Bag. and walk and fcour it with Salt, and 
the Curd likevvife, as directed above ; and then, faking 
it yery well, hang it up in the Corner of a Kitchen 
Chimney, and dry it ; and as foon as you want to ufe 
it, boil Water and Salt as before, and fill the Bag with 
it, making fmall Holes in the Bag, as before dire&ed, 
and keeping it in a clean Pan. 
It is to be noted, that the Bag of the Calf, which is the 
part that receives the Milk, is fo difpofed, as to change 
the Milk into Curd, as foon as it is received into it; and 
the Curd, which is found in it, partaking of that quali- 
ty of the Bag, Which difpofes it to harden the Milk; 
tbel’e are therefore to be preferv'd for the fame ufe, 
when w?e employ common Milk to be made into Curd; 
But as the Calves Bag is warm. When it naturally receives 
the Milk from the Cow, and it then curdles in it; lb, 
w hen we want to fet or turn Milk, for Cheefe, or other 
u ie, we muft have the Milk warm as one may guefs the Bo- 
dy of the Calf was, and the Milk was likewife, when the 
Calf receiv'd it from the Cow. There is great danger if 
the Milk be too hot when the Rennet is put to it, for 
then it lets or turns to Curd very quick, and the Cheefe 
will be hard; but it is good to let the Milk be of fuch a 
warmth as not to come too foon, as it is called in the 
Dairies, but to have it of fuch a warmth, as to let the 
Curd fet eafily, and come moderately, for the quicker the 
Curd comes, the harder it is, and the harder the Curd is, 
the harder is the Cheefe. Again, we muft have fome re- 
gard to the Pafture where our Cows feed; thofe that feed 48 
The Country Lady's 
in rank Grafs have more watry parts in their Milk than 
thofe Cows which feed on fhort Grafs : And fometimes, 
as I have obferved before, in my other Works, the Caws 
which feed upon Crow Garlick, or the Alliaria, or Sauce a- 
lone, or Jack in the Hedge, or Goofe-grafs, or Clivers, or 
Rennet Wort, and their Milk will either be ill tailed, or 
elfe turn or curd of it felf, altho’ the Cow has had a due 
time after Calving; and if the Goofe-grafs or Clivers 
happen to be the occafion of the turning of the Milk, 
then a lefs quantity of Rennet fliould be u fed; For the on- 
ly ufe of Rennet is to fix the Milk, and turn it to Curd, 
and if already there is near an equivalent for Rennet in 
the Milk, by the Cows eating fuch Herbs, then a little of 
it will do. But as I have obferv’d above, where Cattle 
feed upon long rank Grafs, the Milk is watery, and does 
not contain two thirds of the Cream, or Richnefs that 
there is in the fame quantity of Milk from Cows fed upon 
fiiort fine Grafs: So that if one was to make Cheefe, one 
would chufe the Milk of Cows that feed upon the pureft 
fine Grafs. Here the Milk would be rich, and if the Ren- 
net is good and well proportion'd, the Cheefe will be lb 
too. It is to be obferv a likewife, that when Cow'S feed 
upon fuch Weeds as I have mention’d, I mean the Clivets, 
which turn their Milk, the Curd is always hard and fcat- 
ter’d, and never comes into a Body, as the pure Milk will 
do that isfet with Rennet, and confequently the Cheefe 
will be hard. There is one thing likewife to be taken 
notice of, with regard to the Rennet, that as the Bag, of 
which it is made, happens to be good, fo is the Rennet 
good in proportion. I mean the Bag is good when the 
Milk of the Cow, that fuckled the Calf, is good*, for the 
goodnefs of the Food of the Cow does not only difpofe 
the Body of the Calf to produce a gentlenefs or foftnefs 
in the Acid, which- promotes the curdling of the Milk, 
when it is received into the Body of the Calf, but makes 
the Rennet more tender to the fetting of the Cheefe 
Curd, and fo the Cheefe will confequently be the better 
for it: And I judge that one reafon w?hy the SuffolkCheele 
is fo much noted for it’s hardnefs, is on account of the 
badnefs of the Rennet, tho’ it is certain, that the 
Cheefes of that Country are made of Skim- Milk; however, 
the nature of the Milk is fuch. according to my Obfervati- 
on, that it makes very rich Butter, but the Cream rifes 
on it fo quickly, and fo fubfiantially, that it leaves no 
fatnefs or richnefs in the other part, which we call the Director. 
Skim-Milk, but that remains little better than Water; fo 
that his no wonder in this Cafe, and thro’the rank Food 
of the Cows, that the Cheeles of thofe parts are not good. 
I think however the Cheefeof Suffolk might be helptina 
good meafure, if the Farmers there were to have their Ren- 
net Baggs from places where the Grafs was fhort and fine ; 
for I guefs then, from the above reafoning, that the 
Curd would be of a more tender nature, or not of fo bind- 
ing a quality as it now is, and the Cheefe confequently 
would be the better. But befides the goodnefs of the 
Milk and the Rennet, if a Cheefe is over prefs’d, it will 
be hard and unpleafant; but it is to be remark’d, that 
all Cheefes that are hard prefs’d will keep longer than 
thofe that are gently prefs'd, and bear trahfporting thro* 
the hotteft Climates, which the more tender-made Cheefes 
will not without they are put into 
Oil. There is one thing which I may obferve particularly, 
relating to the Rennet Bag; which is, that the Calf Ihould 
fuck it full about an hour before it is kill’d, that there 
may be more and frelherCurd in it; tho’ in the killing 
of Calves it is a rule to let the Calf fall fome time before 
killing, which we are told contributes to the Whitenefs 
of the Flefh. Again, it would bean advantage in the mak- 
ing of Cheefe to have your Cattle all of one fort, and to 
feed all upon the fame fort of Failure; for when it hap- 
pens to be otherwife, the Cheefes are apt to decay, from 
the different Tempers of the Milk; but let our Milk be 
what it will, be careful of the former method prefcrib’d, 
i. e. to break the Curd by gentle degrees, and as equally 
as pofllble every where : The little pains extraordinary 
will be paid in the goodnefs of the Cheefe, for then it 
will not be full of Eyes or Hollows, and will fell the 
But befides the ways of preparing the Rennet, as I 
have here fet down, it is pradlifed to make an artificial 
Rennet, which will dp very well for making of Cheefe $ 
and that is, to boil the CliVer, or as fbme call it Goofe- 
grafs. or others Rennet-Wort, in Water, and you may 
add fome tops of fweet Bryar; about a fpoonful of which 
Decodlion. or boiled Liquor, will, turn a Pail-full of 
Milk, of about five Gallons, without any other help; but 
in the preparation of this, as well as the other, for the 
Improvement of the Cheefes, in giving them rich fla- 
vours, it is advifable to infert, while we are boiling the 
Waters for them, either fome of fuch fweet Herbs as we 
like, or fuch Spices as we moll covet the tafie of. As for The Country Lady's 
the famous Stilton Cheefe, which I have already publilhed 
the Receipt of, we are to make the Rennet ftrong of Mace, 
by boiling the Mace in the Salt and Water, for without 
that is done, the Cheefe will not have the true Relifli 
that the firft famous Stilton Cheefes had; and without the 
People of Stilton keep up the antient way of making it, 
agreeable to the old Receipt, they mull of neceflity lofe 
the Reputation they have gain’d by their Cheefes. I 
fhall not pretend to affirm why the Cheefes now in that 
Town are not generally fogood as they were formerly; 
but perhaps it is becaufe fome of the Cheefe-Sellers there 
depend upon the reputation of the firll Cheefes. and now 
buy Cheefes from other parts, where nothing of the true 
Receipt is known but the Figure. However, it would 
be injullice in me if I did not take notice, that the Mailer 
of the Blue-Bell Inn in Stilton provided me with one that 
was excellent in it’s w7ay, and yearly furnifhes as many 
Cullomers with them as give him timely Notice: But as 
thefe Cheefes require time in the Dairy, before they are 
fit for eating, and the feafon of making them is in the 
Bloom of the Year, fo it is necelfary to fpeak for them be- 
times, to have them to one’s mind. I lhall not give the 
Receipt of it at this time, as it has already fallen into a 
good number of hands with my former Pieces, and has 
been thought good enough to have been copied from me, 
with many other Articles, andpublifhed by Mr. Lawrence. 
I fhall proceed therefore to give the Receipts for making 
of fome other kinds of Cheefes, which yet have not ap- 
pear’d in the World, which I have collected from fome of 
the bell Dairies in England The following is the famous 
Buckingham Cheefe, which I had from Mr. Foord, a very cu- 
rious Gentleman of that place. 
To make Buckingham Cheefe. From 
Mr. Foord of that Place. 
PRepare aCheefeVator Cheefe Mote of a fquare Fi- 
gure, fix Inches over, and nine Inches deep, full of 
fmall Holes for the convenience of letting out the Whey 
when the Curd is put into it: Then take the Night’s Director 
Cream, and mix it with the Morning's Milk, and put the 
Rennet to it cool. When the Curd is come, take it gent- 
ly from the Whey and fill the Cheefe Vat with it, and lay 
a Board upon the Curd, and as that finks fill up the Cheefe 
Vat with frefh Curds; this fhould be done once every 
Hour till Night. The next Day turn your Cheefe up-fido 
down, and continue turning it every Night and Morning 
till it fhrinks from the Vat or Cheefe Mote, and is ftiff 
enough to take out without breaking, and then lay it upon 
the Shelf to be turn’d, and flaift it Night and Morning till 
'tisdry for ufe. This Mr. Foord tells me is the beftfortof 
Cheefe he has met with in England. 
The following I have experienced to be an extraordi- 
nary Cheefe; in fome places 'tis call’d the Golden Cheefe, 
and in others the Marygold Cheefe, which it is properly. 
The Juice of the Marygoldsadds a very great richnefs to 
the Milk, and contributes almoftas much to it as Cream 
would do. The following is a Receipt to make it. 
To make Marygold Cheefe, 
GAther your Marygold Flowers in a Dry Day, and 
pick the golden-colour'd Leaves from them, (thefe 
we call the Petals of the Flowers:) As foon as you have 
pick’d a fufficient quantity of thefe Leaves for your ufe, 
brillfe them in a Mortar or grind them, if you have Con- 
veniency,and ftrain out the Juice; this Juice, when you 
put the Rennet to the Milk, muft be put into the Milk, 
and flirt’d into it. The Milk muft then befet,andas foon 
as the Curd is come, break it gently, and as equally as pof- 
fible, and put it into the Cheefe Vat, and prefs it with a 
gentle Weight, letting the bottom part of the Vat have 
jfuch a number of Holes in it, as will let out the Whey 
eafily, or elfe a Spout to carry off the Wheyt but the 
Holes are much better than the Spout. This Cheefe, 
which is made in a Cloth, muft be ufed like other Cheefes 
made after that manner. 
As for the making of Sage-Cheefe, the following is the 
heft way that I have met with, and therefore I think the 
Receipt may be ufeful to the Publick. 52 
The Country Lady's 
To make a plain Sage-Cheeje 
GAther the young Tops of red Sage, and bruife them 
in a Mortar till you can prefs the Juice from them, 
then take Leaves of Spinach or Spinage, and bruife them 
likewife, and prefs out the Juice to mix with the Sage 
Juice 5 for the Sage Juice of itfelf is not of a plealant 
green Colour, and the Spinach Juice is added to it to. ren- 
der it more bright to the Sight; it alfo ferves to take off 
the bitternefs of the Sage. When this Juice is prepared, 
put your Rennet to the Milk, and, at the fame time, mix 
as much of your Sage and Spinach Juice with it, as will 
give the Milk the green Colour you defire. If you would 
have it ftrongof the Sage, you mud have the greater (hare 
of Sage Juice ; or weaker of the Sage, the greater (hare 
of Spinach Juice. When the Curd is come, break the 
Curd gently, and when it is all equally broken, put it in- 
to the Vat or Cheefe Mote, and prefs it gently; remember 
that the equal and due breaking of the Curd will keep 
your Cheefe from having Hollows or Eyes in it, and the 
gentle pre/fing of Cheefe will make it eat tender and 
mellow. This, as well as the Marygold Cheefe, mull: be 
falted. when it has been prefs’d about eight Hours. 
To make Sage-Cheefe in Figures. 
THofe that are willing to have figur’d Cheefes, fiich 
Cheefes as are partly green and partly otherwife, 
wuft take the following Method. Provide two Gheefe 
Vats of the fame bignefs, and fet your Milk in two dif- 
ferent Veflelsjone part with plain Rennet only, and the 
other with Rennet and Sage Juice, as dire&ed in the a- 
bove Receipt: Make thefe as you would do two diftinft 
Cheefes, and put them into the Preffesat the fame time; 
when each of thefe Cheefes has been preft half an hour, 
take them out and cut fome fquare Pieces, or long Slips, 
quite out of the plain Gheefe, and lay them upon a Plate; 
then cut as many Pieces out of the Sage Gheefe, of the 
fame Size and Figure of thofe that were cut out of the 
plain Gheefe, and prefently put the pieces of the Sage Director. 
Cheefe into the holes that were cut in the plain Cheefe, 
and the pieces cut out of the plain Cheefe, into the holes 
of the Sage Cheefe, contriving to make them fit exactly ; 
For this ul’e fome have Tin Plate, made into Figures of 
feveral Shapes, with which they cut out the pieces of their 
Cheefes fo exadlly, that they fit without trouble. When 
this is done, return them to the Prefles, and treat them 
like common Cheefes, fo will you have one Cheefe Sage, 
with white or plain Figures in it. and the other a white 
Cheefe. with green Figures in it. In the making of thefe 
Cheefes you muft particularly obferve to break your 
Curd very equally, and prefs both your Cheefes as e- 
qually as poffible before you cut out the Figures; for 
eke when they come to be prefs’d for the laft time, your 
Figures will prefs unequally and lofe their Shapes. When 
thefe Cheefes are made, they muft be frequently turn'd 
and fhifted on the Shelf, and often rub’d with a coarfe 
Cloth. Thefe Cheefes may be made about twm Inches 
thick, for if they are thicker, it will be more difficult to 
make the figures regular; thefe will be fit to eat in about 
eight Months. 
To make Cheefe in imitation of Che- 
(hire CUejc, 
WHen your Milk is fet, and the Curd is come, it 
mull not be broken with a Difli, as is ufual in 
the making of other Cheefes. but drawn together by the 
Hands to one Side of the VelTel, gently and regularly bro- 
ken; for if it is roughly prefs’d.a great deal of the Rich- 
nefs of the Milk will go into the Whey. As you ga- 
ther your Curd, put it into Vat orCheefe Mote till it is 
full, then prefs it and turn it often, faking it at feve- 
ral times. It is to be noted, that the Cheefes Ihould he 
fix or eight Inches thick, and will be fit to eat in a Year; 
they mull be frequently turn’d and drifted upon the 
Shelf, and rubb’d often with a dry coarfe Cloth, and at 
the Year’s End may have a Hole bored in the Middle, fo 
as to contain a Quarter of a Pint of Sack, which mull be 
pour’d into it. and then the Hole Hopp’d clofewkh fome 
of the fame Cheefe, and the Cheefe let in a Wine Cel,-? The Country Lady's 
lar for fix Months to mellow; at the End of which 
Time, the Sack will be all loft, and the Hole will be in 
a manner clos’d up. 
To make Cheefe in imitation of thofe 
made in Gloucefterfhire. 
THefe Cheefes are to be about two Inches thick, 
and the Vats or Cheefe Motes muft be provided 
accordingly; fet your Milk as diredled in the former Re- 
ceipts, and breaking it as equally and tenderly as porfi- 
ble, put it in a Cloth into the Vat, and fet it in the 
Prefs for an Hour; then take it out of the Prefs, and 
cut it in fmall Pieces, as big as Nutmegs, into a Pan of 
fcalding Water, taking them again foon out of the Wa- 
ter, and fprinkle them with Salt at your Pleafure, and 
return them again to the Vat or Cheefe Mote, and keep 
them in the Prefs till the next Morning, after that 
turn them and wipe them often, till they come to be 
very dry; Or elfe when you have let one of thefe Cheefes 
prefs about two Hours, fait it on the upper Side, and 
turn it at Night, and fait the Side that lies uppermoft, 
to lie in the Prefs till Morning; but the firft Way of 
cutting and faking it is much the beft. Thefe Cheefes 
will be fit to cut when they have been made eight 
Months; it is to be obferv’d, that if we fait them in the 
Manner firft mention’d, that is by cutting the Cheefe, 
fuch Cheefes will be fmooth-coated. 
To make Slip-Coat Cheefe which is the 
thin Summer Cheefe? call'd in Lon- 
don Cream Cheefe, From the Farm 
call'd th Vaifes in Effex. 
TAke fix Quarters of new Milk, and a Pint of Cream, 
put it together with a Spoonful of Rennet Juft 
warm, and let it ftand till the Curd is come; then lay 
a Cloth in your Cheefe Vat, and with a Skimming-dim Director. 
cu t out the Curd, and lay it in the Vat till it is full, turn- 
ing your Cheefe-cloth over it; and as the Curd fettles, 
lay more on, till you have laid on all. When the Whey 
is drain’d out, turn the Cheefe into a dry Cloth, and 
then lay a Weight of a Pound u-pon if, at Night turn it 
into another ary Cloth, and the next Morning fait it 
a little, then make a Bed of Nettles or Afti-Leaves to lay 
it on, and cover it with the fame, fhifting them twice 
a Day, till the Cheefe is fit to eat, which will be in a- 
bout ten Days. This Cheefe is approved to be the beft 
of the kind in the whole Country, and may be made 
all the Summer. 
It is to be obferv’d, that if in any fort of Cheefe, 
which is here mentioned, there is not a ftrength or 
brisknefs of Tafte agreeable to every Palate, it may be 
ftrengthned, by putting either Spice into the Rennet 
Bag, as Pepper, or Mace, or Gloves, which will make 
the Rennet very ftrong, and the Cheefe of confequence 
more fharp to the Palate; or elfe add the Juices of ftrong* 
fweet Herbs to the Milk, when the Rennet is put in: the 
Juice of Mary golds efpecially helps the richnefs of the 
Milk, or Cheefe. The Mace in good quantity put into 
the Rennet will give the Cheefe a moft agreeable warmth. 
As for the Antipathy which fome People bear to 
Cheefe, I judge that it muft proceed from the firft im- 
preffion made from the Nurfe that fuckles Children, or 
from the firft Cow’s Milk that is given them: for as the 
Stomach is the firft part which the Nourifhment is re- 
ceived into; fo, as that Nourifhment is at firft favou- 
rably receiv’d into the Stomach, fo the Tone of the 
Stomach will ever remain afterwards, unlefs it could be 
fo clear’d from the firft Impreflion by fuch a tryal as 
humane Nature can hardly bear. I guefs too, that from 
this prejudice in the Stomach proceeds the Averfion 
which fome People have to the fmell of Cheefe ; and if 
1 may go a little farther this way, I fuppofe that the 
diflike to Cats, and the Antipathy fome People bear to 
them, is from Frights which the Mothers have receiv’d 
from them during their Pregnancy: concerning which 
laft Particular, I have offer’d my Sentiments in the Ar- 
ticle of the Longing of Women, in my Phitofophical Ac- 
count of the fPbrfa of Nature. But as for the other things, 
which fome People bear an averfion to, as the Mut- 
ton of black Sheep, or bread: of Mutton, &c. they 
depend upon the loathing of the Stomach, from the  The Country Lady s 
firft Impreflion. What I have remark'd here, concern- 
ing the preparing and foftning of the quality of the 
Rennet Bag, is in part a reafon for the firft good or bad 
Impreflion that may be made upon Mankind with re- 
gard to Cheefe ; and I think the following relation, 
which I had from a noble Peer, from whom I have 
learnt many curious and ufeful things, tending to the 
good of my Country, will be acceptable to the World 
Some Gentlemen that had been hunting, and were led 
by their Sport to a retir'd part of the Country, where 
they found only a Cottage to refrefh themfelves in, 
were forc'd to take up with Bread and Cheefe ; there 
was nothing elfe to be had, and they had craving Sto- 
machs: but one of the Company was fo unfortunate as 
to have an averfion to Cheefe, and could never bear 
either the tafte or fmell of it; however, at this time 
feeing how heartily it was eaten by his Companions, 
and being very hungry, he refolved to venture upon it, 
and eat heartily of it j but about an Hour after was taken 
fo very ill with Purging and Vomiting, that in a fhort 
time his Life was defpair’d of. He had the Advice of the 
beft Phyficians, but no Medicine took place, and he was 
given over, after he had lain in that condition a Week j 
however, at length the Diftemper went off, and by de- 
grees he got ftrength enough to go homeward, and in 
his way happening to ftop at an Inn, where there 
a Waggon Load of Chejhire Cheefes. he found that he had 
a ftrong Appetite to eat fome of that fort, and had one 
cut on purpofe. and eat heartily of it, without fuffering 
the leaft inconvenience, and has been ever fince a great lo- 
ver of Cheefe. So that there is anF.xampleof getting over 
this Averfion j but confidering the difficulty he went 
thro’, it (hews the danger of fuch ar Attempt; Nothing 
lefs than the violent Scouring he underwent could have 
chang’d the firft Impreffion made in his Stomach. But 
thus far of Cheefe. 
It is necelTary, in the next place, to fay fomething of 
Butter, and how far that may be mended in many parts 
of England as well for private as for more general ufe. 
In the firft place it is to be remark'd, that fome Grounds 
will never produce good Butter, and others will not 
produce good Cheefe, tho’ there is the beft management 
in the Dairy. Again, there is one fort of Cattle, 
which tho’ we feed them in the fineft Grafs, and beft 
Pafture, will never yield a rich Milk ; while on the o- Director. 
other hand, there are fome forts of Cattle which will 
yield a rich Milk for Butter in any Failure: tho3, as I 
have obferv’d before, the Milk and Butter will be ill 
tailed if the Cows fed upon Crow Garlick, Alliaria, or 
Saxifrage. What I have faid of this, with regard to the 
making of Cheefe, mull here be conlider'd; that is, if the 
Cows feed upon Ihort fine Grafs, there will be more 
Cream in the Milk than if they feed upon long Grafs, 
Indeed the long rank Grafs will give more Milk than 
the Ihort, but lefs Butter, and worfe into the Bargain. 
Again, the Milk of one Cow lhall give richer and bet- 
ter Butter than the Milk of others, tho3 they all feed on 
the fame Failure, even fo that the Milk of one Cow will 
cover of enrich the Butter made from nine or ten o- 
ther Cows ; her Milk will make Butter of a rich yellow 
Colour, full of Fatnefs, and the others will only pro- 
duce a pale, Jean Butter, but all together will be good : 
I know feveral Infances of this, and every One who is 
Skilful in a Dairy may obferve it. I have already treat- 
ed largely concerning this Farticular, in my Works of 
Husbandry, and I lhall therefore proceed to fpeak of the 
managment of Milk in the Dairy for making Butter; for 
I am very fenfible. that many Farmers might have tw7ice 
the benefit from their Dairies, if the Articles of Butter 
and Cheefe were conlider'd in a rational-way, and the 
oldCullom could be broke through; and moreover, if 
the bell Rules for managing of the Dairy were knowui 
and put in practice, the whole Country would be the 
better for it. every one might enjoy the benefit of good 
things: whereas for want of knowledge among fome 
Farmers, their Goods are of fmall value, and the People 
are alfo diffatisfied. 
In many parts of EmUrd it is common to fet Milk in 
Brafs Fans, and that gives an ill Talle to the Milk ; and 
again, there is a cullom of fetting the Cream in Brafs- 
Kettles over the Fire, and as it w'arms to llroak the But- 
ter as it rifes to the edge of the Kettle: this w?ay is very 
bad for Butter, for the Brafs alfuredly will fpoil 
the Talle of the Cream, and it is often fmoak’d. The 
furell is to fet the Milk in glaz'd Earthen Pans, 
or in Leaden Pans, but the Earthen Pans are preferable. 
It fhould be particularly obferv3d, that the Dairy be 
kept cool, for that in hot Weather contributes greatly 
to the advantage of the Butter: I have known fome that 
have had llreams of Water running thro3 them, and at The Country Lady's 
the fame places, inftead of Glafs Windows, there have 
been no Lights at all to them but thro' Wyer, and Shut- 
ters to them, to open or dole as the Sun chang’d its 
Courfe. The thatching of the Dairy is much cooler 
alfo than Tyling; and whatever will contribute to keep 
off the Sun fhould be practis'd. There are yet in lb me 
Places in England fome Farmers that do not know the 
life of the Churn; however, it is certain, that there is 
no better way of making Butter than by that means, 
or fomething equivalent to it; that is, by beating the 
Cream, lb that the Oily, or Fat Parts Separate from 
the watery Parts, in the moll conftant and gentle way 
that is poffible, for to life this beating of the Cream 
too violently, will make the Butter like Greafe; where- 
as a gentle beating of the Cream will render it more 
firm or friff: and befides, when the Cream is beat with 
too much hurry, the Butter will ferment, and prefent- 
ly change to be of a bad Tafte : but if it be gently 
beat or churn'd, it will be firm, and will be fit for keep- 
ing. Again, it mull be obferv'd, that as the beating 
or churning of Cream, to bring it to Butter, is only to 
feparate the Oily from the watery Parts of the Cream, 
fo wteen once you begin to churn, or beat the Cream, 
you mull: continue to churn or beat it in the moftcon- 
ffant manner you can till the Butter is made : for if you 
bad perhaps beat the Cream within three or four Minu- 
tes of its becoming Butter, if you leave off the Work 
but a Minute, the Oily and watery Parts will return to 
one another, and will require as much Labour as before 
to feparate them : it is like Oil and Vinegar that have 
been mix'd by Labour, and then let alone for a Minute 
or two, they will divide and feparate from one ano- 
ther, as much as if they had never been mix'd; but the 
beating of it too violently, will make the Butter Oily, 
as obferv'd before. As for the Figure of our common 
Churn, I fhall not give a draught of it, becaufe fetch as 
are unacquainted with it may underftand it much bet- 
ter by feeing a Model of it, which may be had at any 
Toy-Shop in London; nay, the very beating of Cream 
with a Spoon, in a fmall Bowl, w ill bring it to Butter j 
but it mull be beat regularly. 
In the great Daires in Holland, wdiere one Farmer keeps 
four or five hundred Cows, the Cream is put into a large 
Well, lined with Lead, and a large Beam fet with crofs 
£ars is turn'd in the Cream by a Horfe; but the viodence Director. 
59 
of the Motion makes the Butter rather like Oil than But- 
ter; and the conlequence is, that it will not keep long, 
and as I have heard fay, will not melt well, like the But- 
ter that is made by more gentle means. Where a gentle 
way is iifed in making Butter, it will cut like Wax, and 
it fhould efpecially be well wrought with the Hands, when 
it is frelh taken from the Churn and faked for common 
ufe; for if the Milk be not well work'd out of it, the 
Butter will not keep. However, if Butter begins to de- 
cay in goodnefs, or change to an ill Tafte, let it be work'd 
well, and walk’d with Water, and it will come to it felf, 
and will bear faking and potting as well as frefh Butter; 
but always obferve not to put up Butters of feveral forts 
into the fame Pot or Veflel, but chufe that of the fame 
Dairy, and of the fame making, if poflrble. One of the 
moll curious Women I have met with in this way. is Mrs. 
Careen, a Shopkeeper at Newport Pond in EJfex, who pots 
great quantities every Year; there are undoubtedly many 
others who are very good in this way, bur as Ido not 
know them, therefore I may be excus'd if I mention her 
in particular. 
Again Butter that was good originally, and well pot- 
ted. may he wafh'd and beaten in the Winter, fo as to be 
made more fweet and palatable than frelk Butter, made in 
many Places, at that time of the Year; and this is fre- 
quently pra&ifed about London, wkere the workers of it 
get more than twice the firft Price of the Butter, by their 
Care and Labour. 
Before. I conclude this Article, it may be neceffary to 
obferve, that the beft managers of the Dairy frequently 
fill up their Churns with cold Water, before they put in 
the Cream to Churn, in the heat of the Summer, for fear 
of over-heating the Butter in the making, and in the 
Winter heat their Churns with warm Water before they 
life them, but the over-heating of the Churns fpoils the 
Butterthe beft way is to fet the bottom of the Churn in 
warm Water, when you churn in cold Weather, to fave 
Trouble. 
I {ball now proceed to fay fomethxng of preparing Cor- 
dial Waters; for this Month gives us a vaft variety of 
Herbs in full perfedlion.and in the moll proper condition 
for the ufe of the Shops, whether for drying, infuftng* 
diftilling, &c. 
In the firft place, all Herbs defign'd to be dried, muft 
be gather’d in dry Weather, and laid in forae Room, or  The Country Lady’s 
cover’d Place, to dry in the Shade, to be afterwards ufcd 
for infufion or diftillation, for which Bufinefs the dried 
Herbs are as ufeful as the green Herbs, if they be fuch as 
are Aromatick, viz,. Thyme, Sweet Marjoram, Savory, 
Hyfop, Sage, Mint, Rofemary, the Leaves of the Bay Tree, 
the Tops of juniper, Gill, or Ground-Ivy, and fuch like: 
The Infufions, or Spirits, drawn from dried Herbs are 
more free from the Earthy and Watery Parts, than the In- 
fufion yor Spirits drawn from green Herbs. I obferve, 
that in making ftfeb Infufions as Tea’s of dried Herbs, the 
beft way is to pour boiling Water upon them, and in half 
a Minute, at moft, pour out the Water again from the 
Herbs, if we have them in fmall quantities, as we do Sage 
Tea, or other Tea; fuch Tea will then be of a fine green 
Colour, and full of Spirit: but if the Herbs ftand longer 
with Water upon them, the Water will change of a 
brownifh Colour, will lofe the fine Flavour of the Herb, 
and become ill-tafted; fo that in the making of Sage Tea, 
for example, pour on your boiling Water, and when it 
has been half a Minute upon the Sage-Leaves, pour it off 
and fling away the Leaves; for if you pour more Water 
upon them, you mull: expeft your Tea of a dark Colour 
and ill tafted; therefore have frefli Sage to every frefh 
quantity of Water. And the fame method fhould be ufed 
in the making of all kinds of Teas, to make them palatable 
and more wholefome. But when I fpeak of Teas having 
good qualities in them, I mu ft not be underfiood to mean 
any of the Foreign Teas, fuch as Green. andßohea Teas, 
&c. For I have had experience enough in them to know 
that they are injurious to the Body, of which I fhall fay 
more in a Treatife by it felf. What I mention here, is 
only with regard to the infufing of Herbs in the Tea man- 
ner; but there are Infufions of Herbs inspirits; here 
the Spirits that the Herbs are put into, mu ft be cold, oru- 
fed without any Fire at all. and the Herbs in this cafe may 
be ufed either green or dry; here they may ftand feveral 
da vs before the Spirit that they are infus’d in be drawn 
off as the following CordiaJ, call’d Surfeit Water, may 
ferve to inftance. Director. 
To male red Surfeit-Water. From 
Mrs. B. 
TO three Gallons of Brandy, put the Flower Leaves 
of a Bufhel of red Poppies, one Pound of Railins 
of the Sun Ironed, a large Stick of Liquorice ft’ ’ed, a 
quarter Pound of Caraway-Seeds bru.'ed, a large Hand- 
ful of Angelica, Sweet Marjoram, red Sage, Dragon's Mint, 
and Baulm, of each an handful; let all thefe be cover’d 
clofe in a Glafs, or glaz’d Earthen Veflel, and ftand to 
infufe orfteep in the Brandy for nine Days, keeping it, 
during that time, in a Cellar; then drain it oft*upon a 
Pound and half of loaf Sugar, and put it into Bottles. 
This is a good Cordial if ufed only when occafton re- 
quires. 
In this Month, Orange Flowers are in the gteateft plen- 
ty ; about half a Pound of them put into a Gallon of 
• Brandy, with a quarter Pound of Orange-Peel, and half a 
Pound of double refin’d loaf Sugar, makes a very agreea- 
ble Cordial; We may let theie Ingredients infufe in the 
Brandy nine or ten Days before we pour the Brandy 
from them. Some chufe rather to put the Sugar to the 
Brandy after it is pour'd from the Orange-Flowers. 
As for the diftilling part, we have already feveral Books 
which treat largely of that Bufmefs. both with refped to 
management of what is call'd the cold Still, and the Alem- 
bick, to which I fhall refer: But in this place I (ball only 
take notice, that whereas feveral kinds of diftill’d Waters 
are drawn from many Herbs, which do not appear all the 
Year about; fo if one has not an opportunity of collec- 
ting all our Herbs together, juft wrhen we want them, we 
may yet diftil thofe w'e can get at one time, and make a- 
nother Diftillation of thofe we colled at another time, 
and fornix both Spirits or Water together: For example, 
in thofe Cordial Waters where the Ros Solis, or Rofa So- 
lis is ufed, which is an Herb not always to be found, and 
will not keep above a Dayortw'o after 'tis gather’d, this 
I fay may be diftill’d by it felf, and kept to ufe with other 
Waters at pleafure; putting of this fuch a proportion as 
would have been produc’d from the quantity direded, of 
the Plant, in the Receipt, if it had been diftill’d with the 
other Herbs; and fo of any other Herb that is hard to 
come by, The Country Lady's 
This Herb, however, I may inform my Reader, grows 
in Bogs, and when we find it we may preferve it artifici- 
ally, by either planting it immediately in other boggy 
places, or elfe in artificial Bogs, made of Earth and Water 
in Tubs, or Earthen Pots, made without holes at the botr 
tom. 
This Seafon affords us great variety of Neceffaries for 
Food, in the Farm and Garden ; the Pond Fifh, as Pike or 
Jack, Carp, Tench and Perch as well as Eels are in Seafon, 
and may be prepared for the Table, as directed in March', 
there are likewife green Geefe, young Ducks, Chickens, 
Pidgeons,and Rabbits in fltfc artificial Warren; and in the 
Garden, Spinage an<i Cabbage Lettuce to boil, fome for- 
ward Peafe and Beans, Afparagus, Artichokes, the firft Cab- 
bages, and Caulyflowers. Cucumbers for fiewingand in 
raw Sallads: However, in this Seafon all raw Sallads 
fiiould yet partake of fome warm Herbs, as I have direfled 
in my Neva Improvement of Planting and Gardening. The method 
which I moft approve of for dreffing aSallad.is, after we 
have duly proportion’d the Herbs, to take two thirds 
Oil Olive, one third true Vinegar, fome hard Eggs 
cur fmall, both the Whites and Yolks, a little Salt and 
fome Muftard, all which muftbe well mix’d and pour’d 
over the Sallad, having firft cut the large Herbs, fuchas Sal- 
lery, Endive, or Cabbage Lettuce, but none of the fmall 
ones: Then mix all thefe well together, that it may be rea- 
dy juft when you want to life it, for the Oil will make it 
prefently foften, and lofe its brisknefs. Onions fhould 
always be kept in referve, becaufe it is not every one 
that like their relifh. nor is Oil agreeable to every one ; 
but where Oil is not liked, the Yolks of hard Eggs, bruis’d 
and mix’d with the Vinegar, may be ufed as above. The 
difficulty of getting good Oil in England is, I fuppofe, the 
reafon why every one does not admire it; for I was once 
of opinion I could never like it: But when I was once 
perfuaded to tafte fuch as was of the bell: fort, I could ne- 
ver after like a Sallad without it. The beft Oil that I have 
met with in England, is at Mr. Crojfe’s, a Genouefe Merchant, 
at the Geneouefe Jrtns in Kaiherine-Street in the Strand London. 
As for the ordering of the above Animals and Vegeta- 
bles fbr the Table, we may find Directions in this Work. 
In this Month gather Elder-Flowers when they are dry, 
and pick them from the Stalks; let them dry in the Shade, 
and then put an Ounce to each Quart of White-Wine Vi- 
negar, to ftand in the Vinegar for two. Months, then pour 
the Vinegar from them, for ufe. Director- 
63 
About the end of this Month is a proper time to make 
Sage-Wine, which is a very pleafant one, and I think wor- 
thy a place among the beft Receipts. 
To make Sage-Wine. From Mrs. E. B. 
three Gallons of Water, put fix Pounds of Sugar, 
I boil thefe together, and as the Scum rifes take it off, 
and when it is well boiled put it in a Tub boiling hot, in 
Which there is already a Gallon of red Sage Leaves clean 
pick’d and vvafhd; when the Liquor is near cold, put in 
the Juice of four large Lemons, beaten well with a little 
AleYeart, mix thefe all well together, and oover it very 
clofe from the Air, and let it ftand forty eight Hours, 
then ftrain all throJ a fine Hair Sieve, and put it into a 
VelTel that will but juft hold it, and when it has done 
Working, ftopit down clofe, and let it ftand three Weeks 
or a Month before you bottle it, putting a Lump of loaf 
Sugar into every Bottle. This Wine is beft when it is 
three Months old. After this manner you may make 
Wine of any other Herb or Flower. 
JUNE. 
TH I S Month is a proper Seafon for making 
forts of Wine, whether it be that of Goofeberries, 
Currants, Cherries, Apricots or Rasberries, all which are 
very agreeable and worth the trouble; the Expence, where 
thefe Fruits are growing, being very inconfiderable. The 
following Receipts are approved to be very excellent. 
Preliminaries to the making of Goofs- 
berry-Wine. 
jr’Oosberry-Wine is one of the richeft and ftrongeft 
vJ Wines made in England, it will keep many Years, 
and improve by keeping, if it be well made j and is not, 
in my opinion, inferior to Mountain "**  The Country Lady's 
To make this Wine, we muft have regard to the fort of 
Goosberry wedefign to ufe, for there is a great deal of differ- 
ence in the time of one fort’s ripening and another: The 
earlieft ripe are the Champaign, the Green, the Black, and 
Red hairy Goosberries, every one of which has a flavour 
diftinft from the other forts, and fo will yield each of 
them a Wine of as different a relifh from the reft, as one 
may expedt to find among the feveral Varieties of the 
French growth. The moft forward of thefe kinds about 
London ripen early in this Month, if the Seafon be good ; 
but the latter forts are not generally ripe till the end of 
the Month, or in jfuly. The latter forts are commonly 
the white Dptch, the Amber, and the Walnut Goosber- 
ries, each of which has like wife a different fort of tafle ; 
of the Amber efpecially i have known an excellent Wine 
to be made. Again, we muft confuler, that as to the time 
of their ripening, the diverlity of Situations will for- 
ward or retard them a Fortnight or three Weeks ; and 
befides, as we have obferved above, every Seafon is not 
alike, and we muft have regard alfo to the difference of 
Climate one part of Britm is three Weeks fooner or 
later than another: And when I fay in any one of my 
Kalenders, or Monthly Directories, that any particular 
Fruit is ripe, or any particular thing is to be done in 
fucha Month, it may be underftood that it is generally 
fo, but will vary now and then, as the Seafon is more or 
lefs forward. There is likewife another thing to becon- 
fiderd relating to the ripenefs of Fruits, and that is, the 
different Opinions or Taftes of Mankind; fome call them 
ripe when they juft begin to turn: But what I mean by 
ripenefs. is, when a Fruit is as tender as it can be, and 
pofle/Ting its higheft Flavour: And by thofe Fruits which 
I call half" ripe, I mean fuch as have their inward Juices 
fweet,and their outward Parts a little hard and four. In 
this ftate fhould the Goosberry be gather’d for making of 
,Wine. See the following Receipt. 
To make Goo sherry-Wine. 
GAtheryour Goosberries in dry Weather, when they 
are half ripe, as I have explained in the above Pre- 
liminaries, pick them and bruife them in a Tub, with a 
wooden Mallet, or other fuch like Inftrument, for no 
Metal is proper; then take about the quantity of a Peck Director. 
65 
of the bruifed Goosberries, put them into a Bag made 
of Horfe-Hair, and prefs them as much as poflible, with- 
out breaking the Kernels, repeat this Work till all your 
Goosberries are prefs’d, and adding to this prefs’d Juice, 
the other which you will find in the Tub. add to every 
Gallon three Pounds of powder Sugar, for Lhhon Sugar 
will give the Wine a tafte which may be difagreeable to 
fome People, and befides it will fweeten much more than 
the dry powder Sugar; ftir this together till the Sugar 
is diftblved. and then put it in a Veftel or Cask, which 
mull be quite fill’d with it. If the, Veftel holds about 
ten or twelve Gallons, it mud Hand a Fortnight or three 
Weeks, or if about twenty Gallons, then about four or 
five Weeks, to fettle, in a cool Place : then draw oft" 
the Wine from the Lee, and after you have difcharg’d 
the Veftel from the Lees, return the clear Liquor again 
into the VefTel, and let it ftand three Months, if the 
Cask is about ten Gallons ; or between four and five 
Months, if it be twenty Gallons, and then bottle it 
off- We muft note, that a fmall Cask of any Liquor is 
always fooner ripe and fit for drinking than the Liquor 
of a larger Cask will be; but a fmall Body ofLiquor will 
fooner change four than that which is in a larger Cask. 
The Wine, if it is truly prepared, according to the a- 
bove Directions, will improve every Year, and laft feve- 
ral Years. 
Preliminaries to the making of Cur- 
rant Wine. 
IT is to be noted, that tho1 there are two forts of 
Currants, which may be ufed for making of Wine, 
that is, the Red and the White; yet the Tafte and Good- 
hefs will be the fame, whether "tis made of the White 
or the Red, for they have both the fame qualities, ex- 
cept in the colour. Obferve alfo, that the Fruit be 
gather’d in a dry time, and that if you make a large 
quantity it muft ftand longer in the VeftH, before bott- 
ling, than a fmall quantity. The Country Lady's 
To make Currant-Wine. 
WHen your Currants are full ripe, gather them and 
pick them from the Stalks and weigh them, in 
order to proportion your Water and Sugar to them. 
When this is done, bruile them to pieces with your Hands, 
and add to every three Pounds of Currants a quart of 
Water, ftirring all together, and letting it ftand three 
Hours, at the end of which time, ftrain it off gently thro’ 
a Sieve, and put your Sugar into your Liquor, after the 
rateof a Pound to every three Pounds of the Currants. 
This Sugar fhould be powder Sugar, for Lisbon Sugar 
would give the Wine an illTafte. Stir this well together, 
and boil it till you have taken off all the Scum, which will 
rife plentifully; fet it then to cool, at leaftfixteen Hours, 
before you put it into the Veffel. If you make the quan- 
tity of twenty Gallons, it may ftand in the Veffel three 
Weeks before it will befit for bottling; and if you make 
thirty Gallons, then it may ftand a Month before it be 
bottled off,obferving then to put a fmall lump of Sugar 
into every Bottle ; it muft be kept in a cool place, to pre- 
vent its fretting. By this method it will keep good many 
Years, and beaveryftrong andpleafant Wine, at a very 
cheap rate. 
It is neceftary to obferve, that the fame fort of Currant 
is not always of the fame fweetnefs when it is ripe, thofe 
growing in the (hade will be lefs Tweet than thofe that 
are more expofed to the Sun. And when the Summer 
happens to be wet and cold, they will not be fo fweet as 
in a dry warm Sealbn ; therefore tho’ the Standard of 
the above Receipt be one Pound of Sugar to three Pounds 
of pick’d Currants, yet the Palate of the Perfon who 
makes the Wine fhould be the Regulator, when the Su- 
gar is put to the Juice, confidering at the fame time, that 
it is a Wine they are making, and not a Syrup. The Su- 
gar is only put to foften and preferve the Juice, and too 
much will make the Wine ropey. 
This Seafon is proper for making Cherry Wine, the 
Kmijh and FlemiJJ) Cherries being now full ripe, which 
are much the beft for this purpofe: This is a very plea- 
fant ftrong Wine, Director. 
67 
To make Cherry Wine. 
GAther your Cherries in dry Weather,, when they 
are full ripe, pick them from the Stalks, and 
bruile them well with your Hands till they are all bro- 
ken ; then put them into a Hair Bag, and prefs them till 
you have as much Liquor from them as will run with- 
out breaking the Stones. To every Gallon of this Juice 
put one Pound of powder Sugar, and having ftirr’d it 
well together, boil it and fcum it as long as any Scum 
will rife ; then let it in a cool place till it is quite cold, 
and put it into your VefTel, when it will prefently 
begin to work. When the working is over, flop the 
VefTel clofe, and let it Hand four Months; if it holds 
the quantity of twenty Gallons, or more or lefs, as the 
quantity happensto be, then bottle it off, putting a lump 
of loaf Sugar into each Bottle. It will keep two or three 
Years. if it be fetin a cool place. 
I have now done with the Wines that are to be made in 
this Month: I fhall in the next place fet down the me- 
thod of keeping or preferving Fruits for Tarts all the 
Year about, as I had it from a verv curious Perfon, in 
whofe Houfelhave feen itpraftifed with extraordinary 
Succefs. The Fruits which are chiefly to be put up this 
Month, are Goosberries, Currants and Cherries. 
To freferve Fruits for Tarts all the 
Tear. 
THE Goosberries mail be full grown, but not ripe, 
they maft be gather’d in dry Weather, and pick'd 
clean of their Stalks and Tops; then put them into quart 
Bottles, that are made on purpofe, with large wide Necks, 
and cork them gently with new found Corks, and put 
them into an Oven after the Bread is drawn, letting them 
ftand there till they have fhrunk about a fourth part; 
obferving to change them now and then, becaufe thofe 
which you let at the further part of the Oven will be 
iboneft done. When you find them enough, according 
to the above Dire&ion, take them out, and immediately 
beat the Corks in as tight as you can, and cut the Tops off 68 
The Country Lady's 
even with the Bottles, and pitch them over; you mull 
then fee your Bottles by, in a dry Place. I have tafted 
of Fruits done this way, that have made as good Tarts at 
the Year's end, as thofe that were frefli gather'd : The on- 
ly difference between the preferving Goosberries and 
Currants, is, that the Currants muft be full ripe when 
we put them into the Bottles, and fo likewife the Cher- 
ries. 
There is another way of putting up Fruits for this ufe, 
which is, by half preferving them with Sugar, i.e. half a 
Pound of Sugar to every Pound of Fruit. Apricots ef- 
pecially, when they are near ripe, make excclfent Tarts, 
being fplit and pared from the Skin, and boiled in a Sy- 
rup, they will keep the Year round, as an ingenious La- 
dy has told me. It is alfo to be remark’d, that ripe Goos- 
berries make very fine Tarts. 
The beginning of this Month, when the Goosberries 
are full grown, but not ripe, is the right Seafon for pre- 
ferving of them in fweet-meat: The white Dutch Goos- 
berry is the bed: for this ufe. 
So likewife if you have plenty of Kentijh Cherries, pick 
fomeof them from the Stalks, and lay the Cherries upon 
a fine Wire Sieve, anddrv them in an Oven; when they 
ar.e dried enough, and quite cold, put them in an Earthen 
glazed Jar. and flop them up dole ; Thefe muft be kept 
in a dry place. 
Upon the foot of the above Receipt, for preferving of 
Fruits, I have a Notion that we may preferve green 
Peafe. after the fame manner, in Bottles, that I have men- 
tion’d for the preferving of Goosberries, Currants, &c. 
So that they will eat tender and well tafted at Chrifitnas: 
It is well worth the tryal, feeing that a Bottle or two 
cannot beany great Expence, and that Peafe are accepta- 
ble almoft to every one. This I have perfliaded fome of 
my Acquaintance to try, but particularly a very curious 
Perfoh in fuch matters, who tells me, that provided this 
method anfwers what we aim at, he fuppofes they will be 
the moft agreeable, either to be boiled with Cream, or 
ftew’d in Gravy, after the French manner, for it is a difpute 
with him, whether they will hold their green Colour ; 
but, as I obferv’d before, it may be try'd at an eafy Ex- 
pence. 
The beginning of this Month is the time to pickle 
Walnuts, for then the Walnuts have not begun to fliell, 
and moreover are not fo bitter nor hollow as they will Director. 
be afterwards; they will now be full fleflfd, and you 
will have no lofs. The following method I learnt from 
Mr. Foori, a Curious Gentleman of Buctyngham, and has 
been experienced to be the beft way. There is one thing 
indeed which muft be regarded in this Pickle, which is, 
that every one does not love the Tafte of Onion or Gar- 
lick ; but that may be omitted as we pleafe, only fupply- 
ing the place with Ginger. 
To Pickle Walnuts. 
TH E Walnuts being fit for pickling, walh them, and 
put them into a Kettle to fcald; then with a piece 
of Flannel rub off the outer Skin, and let them He till 
they are quite cold, after which put them into a Veflel 
of Salt and Water for 24 Hours more; then fliift them as 
•before, and continue this Pradlice for fourteen Days, at 
the end of which time wipe them dry, and lay them in a 
glazed Earthen Pot, Stratum [uper Stratum, with Spice, whole 
Muftard-Seed, Horfeßadifli llic’d, andGarlick, orEfcha- 
lots: That is to fay, make a Layer of Walnuts, and ftrew 
over it whole Pepper, Ginger llic’d, Horfe-Radifli, flic’d, 
fome whole Muftard-Seed, and three or four Cloves of 
Garlick ; or if Garlick be too ftrong, as many Cloves of 
Shalots. Then lay upon thefe another Layer of Walnuts, 
and upon them the Roots and Spices as before, and fo 
continue till your Pot is full; then pour over the whole, 
as much boiling Vinegar as will cover them, and immedi- 
ately cover the Pot clofe, and let it Hand till the next 
Day, when we may again pour off the Vinegar from them, 
without difturbing them; and make it again boiling hot, 
pour it upon them, and ftop them clofe, as before, to be 
let by for ufe. But thefe will not be fit for eating under 
three Weeks or a Month, and will be much better by 
keeping a few Months. 
This Month is a proper time to make Syrup of Clove- 
Gillyflowers, and likewife to make Gillyflower Wine, 
which is a very rich Liquor, and may be made in the beft 
manner, by the following Receipt from Mrs. 8.8. The Country Lady’s 
To make Gillyflower Wine. 
TAke nine Gallons of Water, and twenty four 
Pounds of Sugar, boil thefe on a gentle Fire till 
one Gallon is loft, or evaporated, talking off the Scum as 
it rifes. Then having prepared aßulhel of Clove Gilly- 
flowers, the red Flower Leaves only, pour the Liquor 
fcalding hot upon them, and cover them dole till the 
next Day, then prefling them with a Screw Prefs. When 
this is done, bake a piece of Bread hard, without fcqrch- 
ing, before the Fire, and while it is warm fpread fome 
Ale Yeaft upon it, and put it into the Liquor, in an open 
Tub, till it begins to work or ferment; the next Day 
after which, add two quarts of Sack, and one of Rhenijh 
Wine,and barrel it for three Weeks or a Month; let 
then be bottled, and kept in a cool Place. 
In this Month fuch Carp and Tench are good as have 
not lately fpawn’d ; the drefling of them, and of Pikes, or 
Jacks, fee in March. Perch are now very good, the large 
ones for rtewing, as recommended for Carp, or boiled or 
fry’d, or elfe in the Dutch manner, call'd Water Soochy ; 
which is to boil the Perches with Salt in the Water, and 
Parfley-Roots and Parfley-Leaves, to be brought to Table 
in the Water they are boiled in, and eaten with Btead 
and Butter. 'Tis an odd way to the Englijl.), but is much 
admir’d by many Gentlemen who havetravell’d. 
The Garden is now very rich in Eatables, as may be 
feen in my Gardeners Kalendar. printed for Mr. Mean. 
The Tragopogan. or Goatsbeard, is now, as well as in 
the former Month, fit for boiling, it is in much requeft in 
fome of the Weftern parts of England, efpecially about 
Brifiol, as lam inform'd, where the Country People call it 
Trangompoop, or Crangompoop, a corruption, as I fup- 
pofe, from the true Name above written : This is eaten 
like Afparagus, and drefs'd the fame way, the part which 
is eaten is the bloflbmv Bud. a little before it would flow- 
er, with about fix Inches of the Stalk to it. 
There are now Chickens, Pidgeons, Ducks and fome 
young wild Ducks, and Rabbets, which may not only 
make great Variety at a Table, to be dreft after the corn- 
man plain way, but may alfo bemadeinto elegant Difhes, 
after the feveral manners mention'd in this Work, if 
there is an occaflion to entertain particular People of 
fine Tafte. Director. 
71 
Theßonceval and Mooretto Peafe, and Beans, are 
alfo good Helps to a Table: I need lay Nothing of their 
Drelfmg; but that I am of Opinion, that the iVmifor Beans 
when they are blanch’d, that is, boiled long enough till 
we can take off their Skins, and then put into large-neck’d 
Bottles, and order’d as I have preferibed for the prefer- 
ving of Peafe •, by this Means I fuppofe they may be pre- 
serv'd many Months: But we may defer this Experiment 
tillthe End of September, to be tryed uponthe latter Crops. 
Near the Sea we have Mackrel in the Height of Perfec- 
tion, and Mullet, Turbut, Herrings, Scate, and Soles, as 
alfo Lobftersand Crabs; and in the Rivers, Salmon and 
Trout are ftill good, and fome Cray-Fifli. 
'Tisnowa properSealbn to put up Rafberries, either 
in Sweetmeat, or to infufe in Brandy; but they mull be 
gather'd dry. There are certain People who know how 
to mix thefe with Port Wine, and imitate the richeft 
Florence Wine. 
About Midfummer is a proper time to put up a Boar for 
Brawn againft Chrifimas, or againft the beginning of Decem- 
ber, for then is the Seafon it fells beft, and is chiefly in re- 
quefl, felling at that time for twelve Pence per Pound. 
For this end we fliould chufe an old Boar, for the old- 
er he is, the more horny will the Brawn be: We mull 
provide for this ufe a Frank, as the Farmers call it, which 
mull be built very ftrong to keep the Boar in. The fi- 
gure of the Frank fhould be fome what like a Dog-Ken- 
nel,a little longer than the Boar, which we put up fo clofe 
on the Sides that the Boar cannot turn about in it; the 
Back of this Frank muft have a Aiding Board, to open and 
(hut at pleafure, for the conveniency of taking away the 
Dung, which fliould be done every Day. When all this 
is very fecure, and made as direfted, put up your Boar, 
and take care that he is fo placed, as never to fee or even 
hear any Hogs, for if he does, he will pine away, and lofe 
more good Flefli in one Day than he gets in a Fortnight: 
He muft then be fed with as many Peafe as he will eat, 
and as much skim'd Milk, or flet Milk, as is neceffary for 
him. This method muft be ufed with him till he declines 
his Meat, or will eat very little of it, and then the Peafe 
muft be left off, and muft be fed with Pafte of Barley 
Meal, made into Balls as big as large Hen-Eggs, and ftill 
the Skim-Milk continued, till you find him decline that 
likewif*, at which time he will be fit to kill for Brawn;  The Country Lady's 
the Directions for making of which. With the 
Pickle for it, fee in the Month of December. During 
the time he is thus feeding, great care muft be taken that 
he has always Meat before him, for negleCl in this will 
fpoil the whole Defign. 
This is the way of feeding a Boar for Brawn, but I can- 
not help thinking ’tis a little barbarous, and especially 
as the Creature is by fome People put info dole a Pen, 
that, as I hear, it cannot lie down all the while ’tis feed- 
ing ; and at laft, confidering the expence of Food, Brawn 
is but an infipid kind of Meat: However, as fome are lo- 
wers of it, it is neceflary to prefcribe the method which 
flipuld be ufed in the preparing it. 
In this Month we have plenty of Artichokes, and it is a 
goodSeafonto put them up for Winter Ufe, to be ufed 
fimply, or to be piltin Sauces, or in compound Diflies; 
they are eafily dried or pickled, to be kept, and if they are 
not gather’d as foon as they are in their perfection, they 
will loofe the goodnefs of their Hearts, or the Bottoms, 
as fome call them. In a plentiful Year of them I have 
had a great number driedfor Winter ufe, in the follow- 
ing Manner. 
Concerning the gatherings and ordering 
Artichokes for drying. 
IN the gathering of Artichokes, obferve, that the Leaves 
of what is call’d the Artichoke be pointing inwards, 
and lie clofe at the Top, tor then the Bootom will be large 
and full; but if you find many of the Leaves of the Ar- 
tichoke fpread from the Top, then the Choke, or briftly 
part is fhot fo much, that it has drawn out much of the 
Heart of the Artichoke, and as the Flower comes for- 
ward, the more that growrs, the thinner’ will be the Bot- 
ttom, which is the belt part of it. 
When you cut the Artichoke, cut it with a long Stalk, 
that when you ufe it you may clear it wellofit’s Strings, 
which will elfe fpoil thegoodnefs of the Bottom, where- 
in the Strings wTill remain; to do this, lay the Artichoke 
upon a Table, and hold it down hard with one Hand, 
while with the other Hand you pull the Stalk hard up and 
down, till it quits the Artichoke, and will then pull away 
the Strings along with it; this being done, lay the Art i- Director. 
chokes in Water for an Hour, and then put them into a 
Kettle of cold Water to boil, till they are tender enough 
to feparate the Leaves and Chokes from them. When 
this is done, lay the Hearts, or Bottoms upon a Cullender, 
or fome’ other thing, to drain conveniently ; then dry 
them upon a Wire Sieve, or Gridiron, in a gentle Oven, 
by degrees, till they are hard as Wood. Thefe will keep 
good twelve Months if they are lain by in a dry Place. 
When we want toufe thefe for boiling, frying, or to 
accompany other Meats, we muft put them into warm 
Water, often repeating it to them for eight and forty 
Hours; by which means they will come to themfelves, 
and be as good when they come to be fcalded as if they 
Were frefli gather’d. But they may alfo be preferv’d af- 
ter the following manner. 
Second Way to freferve Artichokes♦ 
HAving chofen your Artichokes according to thfe 
above Directions, cut the Bottoms, with a ftiarp 
Knite, clear of their Leaves and their Choaks, flinging 
them immediately into cold Water, to prevent their 
turning black. When they have lain in the Water for 
feven or eight Minutes, wafli them and drain them a li ttle, 
and then fling them into Wheat or Barley Flower, fo 
that they be all over cover’d with it; after which, lay 
them upon Wire-Sieves, or Pieces of Wicker-work to dry 
in an Oven gently, till they are quite dry and hard: 
Thefe muft be kept in a dry Place, and when they are 
to be tiled, fteep them in Water four and twenty Hours, 
and boil them till they are tender, they will eat as well as 
if they were frefli cut. 
The Artichoke may likewife be pickled in the follow- 
ing manner. 
To freferve Artichoke by Pickling. 
GAther and prepare your Artichokes as before, and 
put them into cold Water to boil, with a mode- 
rate quantity of Salt; then take them off the Fire, and let 
the Water ftand in the Kettle for a quarter of an hour, 
till the Salt is fettled to the bottom; then Pour off your 
Water clear into an Earthen glazed Veffel where you de-  The Country Lady's 
lign to put your Artichokes, and clearing them from the 
Leaves and Chokes, wafli them well in two or three Wa- 
ters, and put them in the Brine or Pickle they were boil- 
ed in, when both are quite cold ; upon which' pour as 
much Oil as will cover it half an Inch thick, or 
Oil is wanting melted Butter will ferve; Be lure you put 
fo much as will keep the Air from the Artichokes. Some 
will add Vinegar to the Water, but that is at plea- 
fure; when this is done, cover the top of the Earthen 
Pot clofe with Paper, and lay a Board over it to keep it 
from any Air, or elfe cover the Pot with a wet Bladder, 
and tie it down clofe. They will keep good a Year, and 
when we want to ufe them, lay them to deep in cold 
Water to take out the Salt ; you may drift the Water 
three or four times, they will be the better for it, and 
then ufe them in Pyes, or other compound Dilhes. 
In Holland I have often eat the fmall Suckers of Arti- 
chokes frysd, which have made an agreeable Diih. The 
Receipt for preparing them is the following. 
To fry fmall Suckers of Artichokes? or 
fmall Artichokes, 
GAther the young Heads of Artichokes, and boil them 
with Salt and Water till they are tender; thefe Arti- 
chokes (hould be no bigger than middling Apples; fplit 
them in four or fix Parts each. Flowrer them well, and fry 
them crifp in Hogs-lard. then eat them with Butter, Pepper, 
and a little Verjuice or Orange-Juice. 
It is a common praftice in France to eat the fmall Heads 
of Artichokes raw, with Vinegar, Pepper and Salt; the 
method is to pull off the (ingle Leaves, and dip theflefliy 
part of the I eaves into it and eat that. They are agree- 
ably bitter, and create an Apetite. 
This Month Rasberries are ripe; and as they make a 
moft pleafant Winea I (hall here give the Receipt for 
making it. Director. 
75 
To make Rasberry Wine. 
TO every Quart of the Juice of Rasberries, put a 
Pint of Water, and to every Quart of Liquor a 
Pound of fine Sugar; then fet it on the Fire to boil half 
an hour, taking off the Scum as it rifes; Then fet it to 
cool, and when it is quite cold, put it in a Vefifel, and let 
it ftand ten Weeks or fomething more if the Weather 
prove cold; when it is fettled, bottle it, and it will keep 
two Years. Altho’ I have fet down in this Month a 
good experienced way of making Goosberry Wine, 
which will keep twenty Years, and grow better by 
Age, yet I cannot pafs by a Receipt which is highly 
commended for making Wine of Red Goosberries, which 
I had from an Acquaintance who frequently makes it. 
To make Red Goosberry Wine. 
WHen the Red Goosberries are well colour’d and 
not over-ripe, but grateful to the Tafle, gather 
them in a dry Day ; take a Peck of thefe, and flit them 
a little more than half thro’the middle, putting them in- 
to a large glazed Earthen Pan, with eight Pounds of fine 
fmwder’d Sugar ftrew’d over them; then boil four Gal- 
ons of Cyder, and pour it boiling hot upon the Sugar 
and Goosberries: This muft ftand eight or ten Days, flir- 
ting it once each Day, and at length ftrain it thro5 a Flen- 
nel in a Prefs, and put the Liquor into the Veflel with 
a warm Toafl of Wheat-bread, fpread on both fides with 
Ale-Yeaft; it mufl fland two or three Months till it is 
fine, and then bottle it. This is a very ftrong Wine, and 
of a bright red Colour. The Country Lady's 
JULY. 
THIS Month is the principal Seafon for pickling of 
Cucumbers, for that Fruit is now in the greateft 
Perfection, as well for pickling them in imitation of 
Mango’s, or as Girkins. They are now to be had ir* 
great plenty, and are free from Spots. 
The following is an extraordinary 
Receipt for pickling of Cucumbers 
to imitate Mango's. 
GAther large Cucumbers of as green as Colour as may 
be, walh them well in common Water, and then 
either cut off their Tops, and fcoop out all the feedypart, 
or elfe cut a Slice out of the Side of each of them, and 
fcrape out the Seedy part with a fmall Spoon, taking 
care not to mifmatch the Slices or Tops of the Cucum- 
bers, that they may tie up the better when we come to 
fill them with Spices, &c- When we have thus prepa- 
red enough to fill the Jar or Earthen Veflel which we de- 
fign for them, peel fome Garlick or Shalots, which you 
like heft, and put either two Cloves of Shalot into each 
Cucumber, or one middling Clove of Garlick ; and alfo 
into every one put a thin flice or two of Horfe-radifli, 
a flice of Ginger, and. according to cuftom, a Tea 
Spoonful of whole Muftard feed; but, in my opinion 
that may be left put. Then putting on the tops of the 
Cucumbers, or the Slices that were cut out of them, tie 
them clofe with ftrong Thread, and place them in your 
Jar. Then prepare your Pickle of Vinegar, which we 
fuppofe to be about five Quarts to two dozen of large 
Cucumbers, to which put a pound of Bay Salt, half an Director. 
Ounce of whole Pepper, about an Ounce of Ginger fliced, 
and a large Root of Horfe-Radiflr lliced; boil thefe in 
a Brafs Sauce-pan for above fifteen Minutes, taking off 
the Scum as it rifes, and then pour it upon your Cucum- 
bers, and cover the top of the Veffel with a coarfe Lin- 
nen Gloath four or five times double, and fet theVeflel 
near the Fire to keep warm; the day following you will 
find them changed to a yellow Colour, but that will alter 
in a day or two to be much greener than they were at 
firfi:, if you ufe the following Method: Pour all your 
Pickle into a brafs Skellet, and add to it a piece of Allum 
as big as a Walnut, and fet it over the Fire till it boils* 
then pour it on your Cucumbers as before, and repeat 
the fame every day till the Cucumbers are of the Green- 
nefs you defire. When you have pour'd on your Pickle 
for the laft time, the Jar mull be cover’d as before, but 
remain without Corking till it is quite cold, then flop it 
clofe and fet it by. in a drv place. The Corks for the 
flopping of thefe Jars fhould be cover’d with foft glove- 
leather, for the naked Corks will make the Pickles muf- 
ty. See the Mango’s made of green Melons in the Month 
of September, 
To prefers e Green Cucumbers for JU 
cing in the Winter7 by Mr. Foord 
of Buckingham. 
GAther Cucumbers half growrn, that is, before they 
incline to be feedy, put them in Salt and Water 
for five or fix days, Drifting it every day; then wipe 
them dry, and put them in Vinegar with a little Allum 
to green over the fire; then take out the Cucumbers, and 
boil tjie Pickle to pour hot upon them, covering the 
the Jar with a coarfe Cloth four or five times 
doubled, and let the Jar Hand near the fire. When this 
Pickle is quite cold/ftop the Jar clofe with a leather’d 
Cork, as mention’d in the foregoing Receipt for Mango 
Cucumbers. Thefe Cucumbers may be ufedin the Win- 
der to be pared and fliced like thofe gather’d frelb from 
the Garden; you may cut an Onion with them, and eac 
shem with Pepper, Vinegar and Oil. The Country Lady's 
To Pickle Cucumber5) from Mr. Foord 
of Buckingham. 
GAther the fmalleft Cucumbers you can find, for it is 
the fmalleft Size, which is moft commonly brought 
to Table among People of the firft Rank; tho’ a Cucum- 
ber of two Inches long will do very well, or even one of 
three Inches. Thefe muft be put in Salt and Water, to 
be fliifted every Day till they change to a yellow Colour: 
Wipe them dry, and prepare Pickle of Vinegar, a piece 
of Allum as big as a Walnut to a Gallon, or in proporti- 
on, Ginger fliced, Mace whole Pepper a few Bay-leaves, 
and fome Dill-Seed, which will do better than the Herb it 
felf. Tye the Seeds in a piece of Mufiin, that when the 
Pickle by boiling is ftrong enough of the Dill, you may 
take it out. This Pickle, when it is of a right Flavour, 
muft be pour'd boiling hot upon the Cucumbers, which 
muft belaid in a Stone jar or Gallypot proper for them, 
and then cover'd with a coarfe Linnen Cloth folded in 
feveral Doubles, and let them ftand near the Fire : Re- 
peat the boiling of the Pickle every Day, pouring it hot 
upon the Cucumbers, and covering them as before, till 
they become of the green Colour you Defire. When 
they are quite cold, ftop them clofe with a leather'd Cork, 
as direfted in the former Receipt, if you ufe ajar, orelfe 
if you make ufe of a Gallypot, tye them down with Lea- 
ther or a wet Bladder. It is to be underftood, that Allum 
and boiling Vinegar will ftrike a green Colour to any 
unripe Fruit; but care muft be taken that too much Al- 
lum be not ufed, left the ftomach be offended by it. It is 
a cuftom in fome Places to pickle the green Pods of Ctyft~ 
earn Iniicim with their Cucumbers, which will contribute 
to make them much hotter or warmer to the Stomach, and 
promote Digeftion in cold Conftitutions. But the Capp* 
turns fliould be boiled in Water gently, and wiped dry, 
before you put them among the Cucumbers, where they 
muft be placed before the Pickle is poured upon them. 
Kidney-Beans are pickled the fame way as the Cucum- 
bers, only leaving out the Dill; and the Dill alfo may be 
left out of the Cucumber-Pickle, if it is not agreeable to 
the Palate ; and fo likewife in other Pickles, Garlick or O- 
nions, or any particular Spice may be left out which is Director. 
difagreeable, for it is not the bufinefs here to pin dowD 
the Palate of any one to a certain Relifh that I may like 
my felf, but to put it in the Power of every one to pre- 
ferve or order fuch things as a Farm or Garden affords, fo 
that they may be pleafed with them; The Receipts which 
I have here given, are what I have generally found to be 
the moll approved. We have fome who pickle the green 
Fruit of the Paffion-Tree, the Berougella, and Fig j but 
for my part I can find nothing to recommend them, but 
the relifh of the Pickle, neither are they by any means 
wholefome. 
The Flowers of the Nafiunium Indicum make an excel- 
lent Sallad in this Month, and the Seeds of the Plant, 
while they are green, may be pickled to our Satisfaction: 
The Receipt for pickling them is as follows. 
To pickle Naflurtium Seeds. 
GAther the Seeds when they are full grown and green, 
in a dry Day, and lay them in Salt and Water for 
two or three Days; then boil Vinegar, with fome Mace, 
Ginger fliced. and a few Bay Leaves, for fifteen Minutes, 
and pour it boiling hot upon them, covering them with 
a Cloth, as prefcribed in this Month for the other Pickles, 
and repeat the boiling of the Pickle, and fcalding them 
with it for three Days fucceffively ; and when the laft is 
poured on, let it be cold before you crock it up. The 
folded Cloth which fliould be put over the mouth of the 
Jar, will fuffer fome of the Steam of the Pickle to pafs 
thro' it, and by that means the Pickles will not turn 
mouldy, fo foon as they might otherwifedo, and befides 
will be much greener than if they were to be clofe flop- 
ped. All thefe Pickles Ibould be kept in a dry Place, and 
look’d into every Month, left by chance they turn moul- 
dy ; which if you find they incline to, boil the Pickle 
afrefh, and pour it on them as before. 
There is now the Skerret fit to be eaten; it is a very 
nourifhing and pleafant Root, and is prepared in the fol- 
lowing Manner for the Table : The Culture of it is fee 
at large in my new Improvements of Planting and Gardening, 
printed for Mr. Mean, near Temple-Bar. 
TH E Skerret, tho* it is none of the largefl Roots, yet 
is certainly one of the heft Products of the Garden, 
if it be rightly drefs’d i the way of doing which, is to  The Country Lady's 
wafh the Roots very well, and boil them till they are 
tender, which need not be very long. Then the Skin of 
the Roots mud be taken off, and a Sauce of melted But- 
ter and Sack pour’d over them. In this manner are they 
ferved at the Table, and eaten with the Juice of Orange, 
and fome likewife ufe Sugar with them, but the Root is 
very Tweet of it felf. 
Some after the Root is boil’d, and the Skin is taken off, 
fry them, and ufe the Sauce as above : So likewife the 
Roots of Salfifie and Scorzonera are to be prepared for the 
Table. 
The Apple call’d the Codlin is in good perfection for 
Raiding, the manner of doing which, that they may be 
brought to Table, of a fine green Colour, is as follows. 
GAther yourCodlins half grown, and without Spots, 
for if they are fpotted, they are commonly Worm 
eaten ; fcald them in Water till the Skin will come off 
eafily, then put them again into cold Water, and a fmall 
piece of Allum to green in a Brafs Pan over the Fire ; 
which they will foon do if they are kept clofe cover’d. 
The following Receipt is fent me by a curious Perfort 
for pickling of Codlins, in imitation of Mangos. 
Gather Codlins green and near full grown, blanch them, 
that is, fcald them in foft Water till the Skin will peel 
off, then prepare your Pickle of Vinegar and Bay Salt, 
about a large Spoonful of Salt to a Quart of Vinegar, 
three or four Cloves of Garlick, a quarter of an Ounce 
of Ginger fliced, and as much whole Pepper; boil this in 
a Brafs Pan, with a piece of Allum as bigas aHorfe-bean, 
for half a quarter of an Hour, and pour it hot upon 
your Codlins, covering the Mouth of the Jar with a 
Cloath, and let it ftand by the Fire fide ; boil the Pickle 
again the Day following, and apply it as before, and re- 
peat the fame till your Codlins are as green as you defire, 
and when they are quite cold, cork them clofe, and fet 
them by in a dry Place. There is one thing mull how- 
ever be obferved in all thefe Picklings, which is, that if 
the Pickles do not come to their fine green Colour pre- 
fently ; by boiling often of the Pickle at firft, yet by 
ftanding three or four Weeks, and then boiling the Pic- 
kle afrelb, they will come to a good Colour; and then 
your Pickles will eat the firmer and keep the longer,[when 
thoy are not too foon brought to Colour. Director. 
In this Month we have the Morello and Black Cherry 
iripe, which both are pleafant in Brandy ; to thofe who 
would have Drams by them, the way of making black 
Cherry brandy, is only to pick the Cherries from the 
Stalks, and put them whole into the Brandy, about a 
Pound of Cherries to a Quart; this may remain for a- 
bout a Month before it is fit to drink, and then the Bran- 
dy may be pour'd from the Cherries, and the Cherries 
put then into a Veftel of Ale will make it extremely 
ftrong, only about the proportion of a Pound of Cher- 
ries to a Gallon of Ale ; but fome will put frefh Brandy 
to them, and the Cherries will turn the Brandy of a deep 
Colour, and give it a ftrong tafte of Ratafia; others will 
diftil thefe Cherries in a cold Still, with as much Water as 
will cover them, and draw a fine Cordial from them. 
To make Vifney, 
THis Vifney is made of pure Brandy, and as many 
Morello Cherries as will fill the Bottles or Casks; 
with one Ounce of Loaf-Sugar to each full Quart; thefe 
VelTels or Bottles mult be gently flopp'd, when the Cher- 
ries are put in, and Hand in a cool Cellar for two Months 
before the Liquor is poured from them, and then the Li- 
quor may be put in fmall Bottles for ufe ; It is not very 
ftrong, but very pleafant. The Cherries, when they are 
taken out, may be diftill'd, and will yield a fine Spirit. 
In fome Places, where there are Laurels grow wild, with- 
out cutting or pruning, I mean, the Lauro-Cerafus. as we 
find in many old Gardens, that Plant is apt to bear Ber- 
ries, which in reality are Cherries, from whence it has its 
Name; thefe Berries or Cherries, are ripe about this 
time, and make a fine Cordial, if we infufe them in Bran- 
dy. for two or three Months, with a little Sugar; this will 
have a Flavour of Apricot Kernels, and be of a rich red 
Colour. While lam (peaking of this, I cannot help tak- 
ing Notice of a particular Dram which I tailed at a curi- 
ous Gentleman's Houfe at Putney in Surrey, IV. Curtis Efq; 
which he made by infufing of the Cornelian Cherry in 
Brandy ; that Gentleman is the only one who I think has 
yet tryed it, and to my Palate it feems to be fo like Toe {ay 
Wine, that it mull be a very good judge who can difeo- 
ver the difference. I have drank that Wine in Perfecti- 
on, and this preparation has both the Colour, Tafte, and The Country Lady’s 
Proportion of flrength equal to it; for the great flrength 
of the Brandy is 101 l in the Cornelian Cherry, and tho" 
the Cornelian Cherry is of a bright red Colour, -yet this 
Liquor is of the Colour of Wine. 
Thofe who live neat London, may, about this Seafon, 
buy Geefe out of the Flocks, which are now drove up to 
that City, at about five and twenty, or thirty Shillings 
a fcore ; and till the Seafon we are to turn them into the 
Stubble, we may feed them chiefly with the Offals of the 
Garden, Lettuce efpecially, which will fatten them, if 
you have enough; But as for their particular Food for 
fatting, I {ball fpeak of that in another Place. 
About this Seafon Apricots are ripe, and where there 
are-plenty of them, we may make a pleafant Wine with 
them. The following Receipt is a very good one. 
To make Apricot Wine. From Mrs* 
J- L. 
TO every Quart of water put a Pound and half of A- 
pricots, that are not over-ripe, let them be wiped 
clean, and cut in Pieces; boil thele till the Liquor is flrong 
of the Apricot Flavour ; then ftrain the Liquor thro" a 
Sieve, and put to every Quart four or five Ounces of white 
Sugar, boil it again, and fcurh itasitrifes. and when the 
Scum rifes no more, pour it into an Earthen Pot; the 
Day following bottle it, putting into every Bottle a lump 
of Loaf-Sugar, as big as a Nutmeg. This will prefently 
be fit for drinking, is a very pleafant Liquor ; but will 
not keep long. 
AUGUST. 
IN this Month there are many Delicacies about aCoun* 
try Seat; all kinds of Pond-Fifh are good, there is 
plenty of Poultry of all kinds both wild and tame, ex- 
cept the Water-Fowl, which fhould yet remain un- 
touch'd. Turkey Poults, Pheafant Poults, Partidges, and Director. 
83 
ibme fort of Pigeons, are good ; but for the moft' part 
the Dove-cote Pigeons are diftemper’d, and are now full 
of Knots in their Skhis, and unwholefome. The Eggs of 
Fowls likewife at this Seafon, as well as in the former 
Month, are unhealthful. Towards the end, Pork comes 
again in Seafon, and young Pigs alfo a’re pretty plenti- 
ful; ’tis a good time likewife tofave young Pigs to grow 
up, for now you may turn them with their Dams into 
the Stubbles, and foon after into the Woods. About 
the end of this Months, you have Rabbets full grown in 
common Warrens, and young wild Ducks ; and thofe 
who live near the Sea, have plenty of Oyfters, and in 
great Perfeftion, much better, in my Opinion, than in 
the Winter. Hares are alfo now good, and Buck Venifon 
is ftill good. Turnips, Carrots, Cabbages, Caulvflow- 
ers, Artichokes, Melons, Cucumbers, and fuclj like, are 
in prime ; Sallary and Endive, Nnjiurtium Indie im Flowers, 
Cabbage Lettice, and blanch’d fweet Fennel is now good 
for Sallads. Peas and Beans, and Kidney-beans, are like- 
wife to be met with, fo that a Country Gentleman and 
Farmer may have every thing at home, and fet out a Table 
fit for a Prince, without being beholden to the Markets; 
and the great variety of Fruits which this Seafon 
Gps, renders it ftill more delightful and profitable. 
Now Elder-berries are ripe and fit for making of Wine’ 
as well the white as the red fort ; thefe are both very 
good if they are rightly managed. The following Drinks 
very much like the French Wine call’d Hermuge, and is 
full as ftrong- 
To make red Elder Wine, 
TAKE twenty Pounds of Malign Raifms pick’d and 
rubbd clean, but notwaih’d ; lured them fmall, and 
fteep them in five Gallons of Spring Water, putting the 
Water cold to them, and ftirring them every Day, then 
pafs the Liquor tho’ a Hair Sieve, prefting the Raifins with 
your Hands and have in readineTs fix Pints of the Juice 
of Elder-Berries that have been firft pick’d from the Stalks, 
and then drawn by boiling the Berries in a glaz’d Earthen 
Pot, fet in a Pan of Water over the Fire. Put this Juice 
cold into the Liquor, ftirring it well together, and then 
tunning it in a VelTel that will juft hold it, and let it 
ftand Weeks or two Months in a warm place; then 84 
The Country Lady's 
bottle it, and it will keep a Year if the Bottles are well 
flopp'd. Note, that the Elder-Berries mufl be full ripe, 
and gather’d in a dry Day; and when you have tunn’d 
your Wine, let the place where you fet it be warm and 
dry, where no external Air is admitted, that it may fer- 
ment or work duly, for that is a material Point. If it 
be otherwife difpofed, fo that is Hands in a Place which 
is fubjeft to Heats and Cold, the Ferment will flop upon 
Cold, or be too violent upon Heats ; but in cold Wea- 
ther put fbme Straw about it. See more of the working 
of Liquors in March, in the Article of Brewing, and 
likewife take care that your Bottles are dry when you 
bottle your Wine, and that you have good Corks; take 
care likewife that your Wine be clear before you bottle 
it, or it will be good for nothing. If this Wine be 
rightly managed according to the above Directions, it 
will befit for drinking after it has been bottled a Month. 
In the making of white Elder-Wine, there is no differ- 
ence if you make it with Raifins; but it is much the bell, 
in my Opinion, if you make it with Sugar after the fol- 
lowing Manner ; Only it is to be confider’d, that white 
Elder-Berries are yet very fcarce, and there mufl be more 
of themufed in the Sugar Wine than in the Raifin Wine. 
To make white Elder-Wine? or red El-* 
derWine? with Sugar. 
GAther the Elder-Berries ripe and dry, pkk them, 
bruife'them with your Hands, and ftrain them; then 
fet the liquor by in glaz’d Earthen Veflels for twelve 
Hours to fettle, then put to every Pint of juice a Pint 
and half of Water, and to every Gallon of this Liquor 
put three Pounds of Lhbon Sugar: Set this in a Kettle over 
the Fire, and when it is ready to boil clarify it with the 
Whites of four or five Eggs ; let it boil an Hour, and 
when it is almofl cold, work it with fome ftrong Ale- 
Yeaft, and then tun it, filling up the Veflel from time to 
time with the fame Liquor faved on Purpofe, as it finks 
by Working. In a Month’s time, if the VelTel holds a- 
bout eight Gallons, it will be fine and fit to bottle, and 
after bottling, will be fit to drink in two Months: But 
remember, that all Liquors muft be fine before they are 
bottle or elfe they will grow fharp and ferment in the 
Bottles., and never be good for any thing. Director. 
N- B■ Add to every Gallon of this Liquor a Pint of 
ftrong Mountain Wine, but not fuch as has theßorachio 
or Hogskin flavour. This Wine will be very ftrong and 
pleafant, and will keep feveral Years. 
We muft prepare our red Elder-Wine in the fame man- 
ner that we make with S,ugar, and if our Veflel hold a- 
bout eight or ten Gallons, it will be fit for bottling in a- 
bout a Month ; but if the Vefifel be larger, it muft ftand 
longer in proportion three or four Months at leaft for a 
Hogfhead. 
This Month Barberries are ripe and fit for pickling ; 
they make a pretty Garnifh, and are prepared as follows. 
To fickle Barberries? or Pifferages? as 
calTd in fome Places. 
GAther your Barberries in dry Weather, and lay them 
in theirßunches into an Earthen glazed Pot, then 
boil a quantity of Water made ftrong with Salt, fcum- 
ming it as it rifes, and let it ftand to be quite cold ; then 
pour it upon the Barberries, fo as to cover them an Inch, 
and cover it clofe. Some ufe half Vinegar and half Water 
for this Pickle, but it is at every one’s Pleafure, I think 
one is as good as the other. 
Partridges are now in Seafon, and are prepared after 
feveral Manners 5 fpme of the Principal are the follow- 
ing, 
Boifid Partridges with ftezrfd Salleryy 
from Lady W 
THE Partridges being clean’d and trufled, boil them 
tender, and make the following Sauce for them. 
Take half a fcore large Sallary Plants that are well whi- 
ten’d or blanched, boil them firft in Water and Salt, and 
then flew them tender with Gravey, Salt, fome Pepper, 
and a Spoonful or two of white Wine 5 and when they 
are enough, thicken and brown the Sauce they areftew’d 
in with burnt Butter, lay your Sallery at the bottom of 
theDifli, and your Partridges upon that, then pour your 
Sauce overall, and garnifh with Lemmon or Orange flic’d. 
This is the method of ftewing Sallery, which is an agree- 
able Plate of Jtfelf. 86 
The Country Lady's 
From the fame Lady I had the following Dire&lons 
for roafted Partridges : Partridges which are defigned for 
reading may be larded with fine Bacon-Fat on the Bread, 
or roafted without larding ; but in a Difh of thefe Fowls, 
there fhould be fome of one and fotne of the other. The 
Sauce for them fhould be of two forts, one of Gravey 
in the Difh with them and the other of Bread in Saucers 
on the fides of the Difh. The Gravey is made of Beef, an 
Onion, a Bunch of fweet Herbs, fome Salt and Pepper, 
dew'd half an Hour together, in a little more Water than 
will cover them, then drain off the Liquor into the Difh. 
The Pap-Sauce,is made of grated Crumb of Bread, boil- 
ed with as much Water as will cover it, a little B’ ter, an 
Onion, and fome whole Pepper ; this muft be ,»;ept’flirt- 
ing often, and when it is very thick, withdraw the Oni- 
on, and ferve it in a Saucer with your Partridges. Thefe 
Sauces may likewife be ferved with Pheafants, or Quails, 
Thefe may alfo be ftew'd, farced, baked, or put in Soups, 
or ufed in Fricaffees. Thus far the Lady. 
Hares begin now to be in Seafon, and are well drefs’d 
by the following Receipt, which I purchafed a few Years 
ago, at a noted Tavern in London. 
A Hare and its Sauces. 
IF you kill a Hare by Courting, you may keep it if the 
Weather be cool three Days before you roaft it; but if 
it has been run hard by the Hounds, then it will not 
keep fo long. When the Skin is taken off, it is the fafhi- 
on to leave the Ears on, but that is at Pleafure i then 
truls it for Roafh'ng, and take the Liver and boil it. and 
mince it very fmall ; add to this grated Bread, a little 
All-Spice, but fine, fome butter’d Eggs, a little dry’d fweet 
Marjoram, with a feafoningof Pepper and Salt at difcre- 
tion, and fome Parfley flared fmall : Mix this well toge- 
ther, and add the Yolk of an Egg to it to bind it; then 
fill the Body of the Hare moderately with this Farce, and 
few up the Belly. When the Hare is firft laid down to the 
Fire put about three Pints of Water with an Onion, 
fome Salt and whole Pepper, in the Dripping-pan, and 
bade the Hare with this till it is near roafted enough, and 
bade it with a piece of fat burning Bacon, or in the place 
of that, common Butter ; but the Bacon is heft, if the 
Perfon knows how to life it. When it is enough, pour Director. 
the following Sauce into the Difli with it; Take the Li- 
quor, with the Onion and Pepper in the Dripping-pan, 
out before you bafte the Hare with Butter or Bacon, and 
boil it with a glafs of Claret; it will be very rich when 
it comes to be mixt with the Farce out of the Belly of 
the Hare, and is little trouble. You may thicken this 
with a little Butter and Flower, if you pleafe. 
The following is alfo a very good one; Take a Pound 
of lean Beef, boil it in about three Pints of Water with 
an Onion, a Bunch of fweet Herbs, fome All-fpice, Pep- 
per and Salt, till the Beef is boil’d half enough ; then cut 
the Beef in feveral Places to let out the Gravey, and con- 
tinue to boil all thofe till the Liquor has 101 l a third 
Part *, then add a little Claret to it, and ftrain the Liquor 
through a Sieve pouring theGravey hot into the Difh be- 
fore you put the Hare in it; and when you lay in the 
Flare, cut away the part that was few’d up, or take away 
the Thread that few’d it. Some chufe to skewer up the 
Belly of the Hare, rather than few it. You may ferye 
this with Lemmon lliced, and in a Plate by it have the 
following Sauce. 
Sweet Venifon Sauce. 
TAKE half a Pint of Claret, a little Stick of Cinna- 
mon, and boil them together till the Flavour of 
the Cinnamon is in the Claret; then fweeten it to your 
Mind with double-refined Loaf-Sugar. Or elfe, 
Grate fome Crumb of Bread and put to it as much 
Claret as will make it like thin Pap; add to this a fmall 
piece of Cinnamon and boil it well, then fweeten it 
with double-refined Loaf-Sugar grated fmall. Thefe arc 
the fweet Sauces ufed for Hare, and all other Venifon. 
To drefs a Hare with white or brown 
Sauce. From the late curious Mr. 
Harrifoji of Henley upon Thames. 
CU T your Hare in four or eight Pieces, and flit the 
Head y fry it a little in Hog's Lard and then put it 
o ftew in an Earthen glazed VelTel, with Grave/, naif a The Country Lady's 
Pint of White-wine, Pepper, Nutmeg, Salt, a bunch of 
fweet Herbs, and a dice or two of Lemmon-peel; keep 
this clofe covered, and ftewit gently till Jtis tender, then 
drain off the Sauce, and brown it with fry’d Flower, or 
burnt Butter ; Four the Sauce hot over the Hare, and 
ferve it with aGarnilh of Lemmon in Slices j but if you 
would have your Sauce of a brighter Colour, inftead of 
the burnt Butter, or fry'd Flower, thicken it with the 
Yolks of three or four Eggs. This is an excellent way of 
dreffing a Hare, and more generally admired than any ci- 
ther. 
This being the Seafon for taking Honey, I {hall here 
fet down the Method of making of Mead, after two 
Ways, which are both extraordinary. 
To make Mead0 from Lady G, 
TAKE eight Gallons of Water, and as much Honey 
as will make it bear an Egg ; add to this the Rine of 
fix Lemmons, and boil it well, fcumming it carefully as it 
rifes. When Jtis off the Fire, put to it the Juice of the 
fix Lemmons, and pour it into a clean Tub, or open ear- 
then Veflel, if you have one large enough, to work three 
Days ; then fcumit well, and pour off the clear into the 
Cask, and let it {land open till it has done making a hifs- 
tng Noife; after which, ftop it up clofe, and in three 
Months time it will be fine, and fit for bottling; 
To make Hydromell? or Mead, 
TAKE eight Gallons of Water, and as much Honey 
as will make the Water bear an Eggj pat to this a 
quarter of a Pound of Cloves tied in three or four pieces 
of Muflin or Linnen Cloth, and fet it to boil till the Scum 
has donerifing, fcummingitas it rifes; then take it off 
the Fire, and take out the Cloves, which may be waflVd 
anddry'd for other Ufes, and pour your Mead into an o- 
J)enTub to ferment for about three Days, till the Vio- 
ence of the Working is over; after which, fcum it ve- 
ry well, and pour the clear into a Veflel, leaving the Bung 
open till it has done hiding, which you may know by 
holding your Ear clofe to it for at a diftance you can 
hardly difcover it. When this hiding is over, flop ic Director. 
clofe, and let it ftand three Months till it is fine, before 
you bottle it; remember in bottling this, as well as all 
other Liquors, that the Bottles muft be clean, and perfect- 
ly dry, and that every Bottle be well cork'd. This will 
keep good feveral Years. 
Befides this way of making Mead, there is another 
which I have approved to be very good, which, in all par- 
ticulars, except the Water, is the fame with this; aha in- 
ftead of the Water, put the like Quantity of fmall Ale- 
Wort, brew’d with pale Malt ; But this will require lefs 
Honey than the former, and will require more time in 
the Vefifel before it is fine and fit to bottle; but it will 
laft many Years good and will drink like Cyprm Wine 
when it is a Year old. In this Liquor take particular 
care that your Cloves are frefli and found, or elfe you 
muft add a Quantity in proportion* 
N. B. We may make thele Meads in the Spring of the 
Year, as well as at this Seafon; only the advantage of 
making it now, is, that you have an opportunity of 
waffling the Honey-Combs after the Honey is run off, 
and thereby will fave Expence in Honey. 
The Potatoe now begins to be gather’d., and is a very 
ufeful Root, being either boil’d or rpafted, in hot Embere; 
and after it is boiled, to be broiled, or after boiling it 
tender, and beaten in a Mortar, it is ufed to thicken 
Sauces, and for making of rich Puddings, as lam inform’d 
by a Skilful Perfon in this way. 
The Roots of red Beets now begin to come in feafon, 
and are very good boiled, and fliced, to be put in a Pickle 
of Vinegar only : Thus you may keep them to garniflt 
Sallads of fmall Herbs, and in fome Intervails put Horfe-. 
Radifii fcraped. Thefe Roots will hold all the 
The Root of the red Beet makes an excellent Difh, 
red after the following manner, which I got abroad. 
To fry the Roots of Red Beets 
WASH your Beet-Roots, and lay them in an Earth- 
en glazed Pan, bake thern in an Oven, and then 
peel the Skin off them: After this is done, flit them from 
the Top to the Tail, and cut them in the fliape of the 
Fifli call'd a Sole, a bout the thicknefs of the third part of 
an Inch; dip thefe in a thick Batter, made of WMte-Wine, 
fine Flower, fweet Cream, the Whites and Yolks of Eggs,  The Country Lady’s 
rather more Yolks than Whites, fome Pepper, Salt, and 
Cloves beaten fine, all well mix’d; as you dip every piece 
of Beet-Root in this Batter, ftrew them over thick with 
fine Flower mix d with grated Bread, and Parlley Aired 
fmall and then fry them in Lard : When they are enough, 
let them dry, and ferve them with a Garnifh of Lemmon. 
Thefe likewife may be put about ftew’d Carps, Tench, 
or roafted Jacks, byway of Garnifh, with fcraped Horfe- 
Radifh. and pickled Barberries. 
In the Heats of this Month, the following Jelly isufed 
by a curious Gentleman abroad, who gave me the Re- 
ceipt of it, under the Name of The Jelly of Health: It is of 
great ufe to weak People, and extremely pleafant. 
To make the Jelly of Health 
TAKE fome Calves Feet, according to the Jelly you 
defign to make, and alfo get a Cock of the common 
Poultry kind ; wafli thefe well, and put them in a Kettle 
to boil, with a proportionable Quantity of Water, par- 
ticularly taking' off the Scum as it riles. When thefe 
Meats are Bbilfed' almoft to pieces, it is a fignthat your 
Jelly is boiled’enough; but take care that it is not too 
ftiff, which you may try by taking a little out with a 
Spoon, and then fetting it to cool. Then pour the Li- 
quor thro’ a Sieve into a Stew-pan. and take off all the Fat; 
after which, put to the Liquor a proportionable Quan- 
tity of double-refined Loaf Sugar, a fmall Stick or two 
of Cinnamon, three or four Cloves, and the Rines of 
two or three Lemmons; Boil all thefe together gently 
for about a quarter of an hour, till it is well tafted, and 
then beat up the Whites of four or five Eggs, with the 
Juice of the fix Lemmons, and pour them into the Jelly, 
flirting the whole a little time over the Fire; then let 
this Mixture ftand fiill upon the Fire till it rifes ready 
to boil over; at which time, you mud take it off and 
pour it into the Jelly-Bag, and as it runs throJ into a Pan 
fet to receive it, pour it again into the Jelly-Bag for three 
or four times till it comes clear, and then let it drop into 
Jelly-Glaffes. _ Sometimes, the above Gentleman told me, 
he has put a little White-Wine into the Liquor while the 
Meats were boiling in it, which he thinks helps it. Director. 
SEPTEMBER. 
AS this Month produces great numbers of Mulhrooms 
in the Fields, it is now chiefly that we ought to 
provide our felves with them for making of Ketchup, and 
Mufhroom Gravey: And it is alfo a proper Seafon for 
pickling them. Indeed, where we have Mufhroom-Beds, 
we may do thefe Works at any time of the Year. It is to 
be remark’d, that the heft Mufhrooms have their Gills of 
a Flefh Colour, even while the Mufhrooms are in button; 
and as they tend to fpread in their Head, or to open their 
Cap, the Gills turn redder, till at length, when their Heads 
are fully fpread open, they will become quite black. 
Thefe large-flap Mufhrooms are ftill good for ftewing or 
broiling, fo long as they have no Worms in them, and 
the Gills are then in the bell ftate for making Ketchup, 
or Mufhroom Gravey; altho’ the red Gills will do, but 
thefmaller Buttons are what moft People covet for Pick-* 
ling. 
In the gathering of Mufhrooms, we are fure to meet 
with fome of all fizes; the very fmall for pickling, the 
large Buttons for ftewing or making Mufhroom-Loaves, 
and Mufhroom-Gravey, and the large Flaps for broiling 
or making of Ragous, or ftewing, and Ketchup: There- 
fore to follow the common way, we fliouldmake two or 
three Parcels of them. 
The cleaning of Mufhrooms, or preparing them for 
any of the above llfes, will afford us nothing but what is 
ufeful; the Parings fhould be faved by themfelves to be 
wafhfd towards the making of what is called Mufhroom- 
Gravey ; the Gills muft be faved by themfelves for making 
either Ketchup, or Mufhroom-Gravey; and the Parts to- 
wards the Roots, and the Roots themfelves, muft be kept 
to dry in the Sun, or a warm Room, to raife Mufhrooms 
from, efpecially if they are of a large good fort that has 
red Gills, for thofe which have white Gills, prove often- 
times unwholefome, and are apt to turn yellow wheq they  The Country Lady's 
are cut and put in Water: However, fome People eat of 
this fort, and I have eaten of fuch a fort my felf; but as 
there are fome with white Gills that are deadly, it is 
dangerous for unskilful Perfons to meddle with any of 
that fort: And therefore I thought it convenient when I 
was in France, to learn the Method of railing them in Beds, 
that wte might be fure of our fort, and have them all the 
Year about: The Method of doing which, is in my Appen- 
dix to my New Improvements of Planting and Gardening printed 
for Mr. Mears, at Temple-Bar. 
The following Receipts for making of Mufhroom- 
Ketchup, and Mufliroom-Gravey, I had from a Gentleman 
named Garneau, whom I met at Bruffets, and by Experience 
find them to be very good. 
To make Mujhroom Ketchup. 
TAKE the Gills of large Muflirooms, fuch as are 
fpread quite open, put them into a Skellet of Bell- 
Metal, or a Veflel of Earthen-Ware glazed, fet 
them over a gentle Fire till they begin to change into 
Water; and then Frequently ftirring them till there is as 
much Liquor come out of them as can be expedled, prelling 
them often with a Spoon againft the fide of the Veflel; 
then ftrain off the Liquor, and put to every Quart of it 
about eighty Cloves, if they are frefli and good, or half 
as many more, if they are dry, or have been kept a long 
time, and about a Drachm of Mace; add to this about a 
Pint offtrong red Port Wine that has not been adultera- 
ted, and boil them all together till you judge that every 
Quart has lofl about a fourth Part or half a Pint; then 
pafs it thro5 a Sieve, and let it fland to cool, and when 
it is quite cold, bottle it up in dry Bottles of Pints or 
Half-pints, and cork them clofe, for it is the fureff way 
to keep thefe kind of Liquors in fuch fmall quantities a» 
may be ufed quickly, when they come to be expofed to 
the Air for fear of growing mouldy ; but I hive had a Bot- 
tle of this fort of Ketchup. that has been open’d and fet by for above i 
Tear, that has not received the leafl Damage; and fome Acquain- 
tance of mine have made or the fame fort, and have kept 
it in Quart-Bottles to ufeas occafion required, and have 
kept it good much longer than 1 have done. A little of 
it is very rich in any Sauce, and efpecially when Gravey 
is wanting: Therefore it may be of fervice to Travellers, Director. 
who too frequently meet with good Fifli, and other 
Meats, in Britain, as well as in feveral other parts of Eu- 
rope, that are fpoiled in the drefting; but it mud be con* 
fider'd, that there is no Salt in this, fo that whenever it 
is ufed, Salt. Anchovies, or other fuch like relifliing things 
may be ufed with it, if they are agreeable to the Palate, 
and fo likewife with the Mufliroom Gravey in the follow- 
ing Receipt. 
Of Mujhroom Gravey. 
WHEN you clean your Muflirooms, fave the Par- 
ings, and wafli them well from the Dirt, and 
then put to them the Gills that have been fcraped from 
the large Buttons, and with a verry little Water put 
them in a Sauce-pan, and ftir them frequently till you 
have got all the Juice from them; then ftrain the Liquor 
from them, and fet it by to cool, or elfe till you have 
ftew'd the Muflirooms that they were taken from, and 
then add the Liquor of the ftew’d Muflirooms to the afore- 
flid Liquor, and boilthem both together, with about 80 
Cloves, about a Drachm of Mace, and two Drachms of 
whole Pepper to each Quart of Liquor, which will he fit 
to take off the Fire when it has loft about a third part by 
boiling; then pafs it thro1 a dry Sieve, into a dry earthen 
Pan, and let it ftand till it be quite cold before you bot- 
tle it, obferving then that the Bottles be very dry, for if 
they happen to be wet, it will foon turn mouldy. When 
the Bottles are fill'd, cork them well with found new 
Corks, andtyea piece of Bladder, that has been fbftened 
in warm Water, over every Cork as tight as poflible, and 
fet the Bottles in a dry Place; with this management it 
will keep a long time. 
What I learn'd elfe from the above mention'd Gentle- 
man, concerning the preparing of Muflirooms for eating, 
was, that they ftiould be always ufed when they are frefli 
gather’d, and then only fuch as are without Worms, 
which may be eafily perceived by cutting their Stems 
crofs-wife; and alfo that as foon as the Peel is pared off, 
and the Gills, let the large Muflirooms be cut into pieces, 
of thebignefs of Nutmegs, and thrown into Water, as 
well as the Stems at the Caps, for they are both good ; 
then wafli them well, and ftew them in a Sauce-pan, with- 
out putting any Liquor to them, or Spice, or Salt, till  Tfe Country Lady^s 
have difcharged a great deal of their own Liquor, and 
begin to grow tender; you will then find them (brink 
into a very narrow compafs, and mull: have the greateft 
part of the Liquor poured from them, with which you 
may make the Mufhroom-Gravey abovemention’d. The 
Mufhrooms being thus prepared, put to them a Seafoning 
of Pepper, Salt, Mace, and fuch other Ingredients as will 
not rob the Mufhrooms too much of their own natural 
Flavour, and (Hr them frequently till they are enough; 
then put a little White-Wine and Butter to them, and 
they will make an excellent good Di(b : Or elfe they may 
be made brown with fome burned Butter, or be made 
into a Ragout. As for the broiling of the Caps of the 
large Mufhrooms,the fame Perfon’s Receipt direfts to rub 
the Caps with Butter on both fides, and drew Pepper 
and Salt on them, and broil them till they are quite hot 
through, turning them two or three times on the Fire, 
they will make their own Sauce when they come to be 
cut. Another way which he direds, is to make a pretty 
thick Batter of Flower, Water, or Milk and Eggs beaten 
together with fome Salt and Pepper to dip them in, and 
then fry them like Tripe; and for their Sauce, he recom- 
mends Butter, a little White-wine,, and fome of the 
Mulhroom-Gravey, to be well mix’d together. 
Some of my Acquaintance, who have try’d thefe Direct 
tions, approve of them; and, for my own part, I think 
them as agreeable as any that 1 have eaten; but as the 
Tafte is not alike in every one, I (hall add an Obfervati- 
on or two more of Monfieur Garneau s, concerning the 
Mufhroom, which I think not unworthy our notice. The 
Mulhroom, fays that Gentleman, is not only a good 
Ground work for all high Sauces, but itfelf a good Meat 
to be drefs’d after any manner, either to compofe a 
white or brown Fricaflee, orfry’d or broil’d, or baked in 
Pyes with common Seafoning, and (lands in the room of 
Flelh better than any thing that has yet been found 
out. 
This Month islikewife a good time, if it is not over-i 
wet, to gather Mulhrooms for drying) but they ftiould 
chiefly be fuch as are newly open'd in their Caps, before 
the Gills turn black. For this end, take off the Gills very 
clean, and wipe the Caps with wet Flannel, and as foon 
as they are a little dry, run a String through them, and 
hang them at fome diltance from the Fire, turning them 
now and then till they are dry enough to be reduced to Director. 
Powder; when they are thus dry'd, keep them in dry 
Bottles with wide Necks, clofe flopp'd, till you have oc- 
cafion to ufe them in Sauces. Keep this in a dry place. 
Some dry them in Ovens after the Bread is drawn, but an 
Oven in it's full heat will be too ftrong for them. 
To fickle Mufhrooms White. 
TAkea Quart offmall Buttons of Muflirooms, cutoff 
their Roots, and wafli them well with Flannel dipt 
in Water and then fling them into clean Water, to re- 
main thereabout two hours. In the next place, get rea- 
dy fome frefli Water in a well-tinn'd Veflel, or glaz'd 
Veflel, to which put your Muflirooms, and let them boil a 
little to foften ; which being done, take out your Mufli- 
rooms, and prefently put them into cold Water, and let 
them remain there till they are quite cold; after this, 
free them from the Water, and dry them well in a linnen 
Cloth, then put them either into a wide-neck’d Bottle, 
or glaz'd earthen Veflel, difpofing here and there among 
them three or four Bay-leaves to a Quart, two Nutmegs 
cut in quarters, about a quarter of an Ounce of Mace; 
and boil as much White-wine and Vinegar, in equal 
quantities, as will ferve to cover the Muflirooms. This 
Pickle muft be put to them cold, and the Bottle, or earth- 
en Veflel, clofe ftopt and ty’d down with a wet Bladder. 
The reafon why the Spice mould not be boiled with the 
Pickle, is, becaufethe Muflirooms would change black by 
means of the boil'd Spices; and if this plain Pickle was 
to be pour’d upon the Muflirooms hot, it would immedi- 
ately draw a Colour from the Spices, which would darken 
the Colour of the Muflirooms: Therefore to fill up the 
glafles in the manner here related, is the beft way to have 
your Muflirooms look clean and white. 
This Month is the proper time to pickle Onions, which 
make an agreeable Pickle if they are prepared after the 
following manner. 
To pickle Onions? from Mrs. A. W. 
TITTHeii your Onions are dry enough to be laid up 
VV in the Houfe, take the fmalleft of them, fuch as 
are about the bignefs of a fmall Walnut, and of that fort  The Country Lady's 
which we call the Spanijh Onion, for thefe are not fo ftrong 
flavour’d as the ftrasburgh Onions; take off only the out- 
ward dry Coat, and boil them in one Water without 
Drifting, till they begin to grow tender; then take them 
off the Fire, lay them in a Sieve or Cullendar to drain and 
cool ; and as foon as they are quite cold, takeoff two o- 
ther Coats or Skins from each, and rub them gently in 
a linnen Cloth to dry. When this is done, put them in- 
to wide mouth d Glaffes, with about fix or eight frefh 
Bay-leaves to a Quart, a quarter of an Ounce of Mace, 
two large Rafes of Ginger fliced. All thefe Ingredients 
muft be interfperfed here and therein the Glaffes among 
the Onions, and then boil your Vinegar with about two 
Ounces of Bay-falt to each Quart, taking off the Scum as 
itrifes,and letting it Hand to be cold ; pour it into the 
Glaffes. and cover them clofe with wet Bladders, and 
tie them down ; they will eat well, and look very white,. 
About the end of this Month, if the Seafon has been to- 
lerable, the Grapes in our Englijh Vineyards will he ripe, 
and then we muft be careful to gather them in dry Wea- 
ther, that the Wine may keep the better. I have already 
mention’d, in my other Works, the curious Vineyard 
near Bath, and that belonging to Mr. John Warner at Rother- 
hitb, where good Wines are made every year; and alfo 
that at Darling at Surrey, belongiog to Mr. Horoari, which is 
a very good one; but as fome years are lefs favourable 
than others to the Grape, as well with us as abroad, it will 
not be unneceffary to take notice of a few Particulars, 
which I have obferv’d this Year 1716, concerning the 
management of Vines, which I have only communicated 
to a few. I {ball alfo fet down a few Directions for the 
making of Wine, which have not been hitherto menti- 
on’d in any of my Works, or by Mr. Evelyn, or Mr. Morti- 
mer. 
As to the Hrft, we are to obferve, that the Situation of 
our Ifland occafions our Seafons to be more uncertain 
than on the Continent, or between the Tropics. The 
cold and wet Summer, *72?, prevented the ripening of 
our later kind of Grapes; and indeed I did not meet any 
where with a Grape that had its perfeCt Flavour, unlefs 
the Vines were forced; but yet there were abundance. 
However, this Year. 1726, on the contrary, there are very 
few Grapes, and thofe are likely to be very good, fome 
being already ripe againft common Walls, without Art; 
filch at the white Mufcadine the 24th of and black Director. 
Clufter-Grape. And at Sir Nicholas Garrard’s Garden in 
Ejfcx, I eat lome of the black Frontiniacli full in perfection, 
at the fame time ; and then the grilly and white Frontiniac\ 
Grapes, which are the lateft kinds, were tranfparent, and 
within a little of being fit to gather ; Which is a Novel- 
ty fo great, that has not been obferv’d in England in my 
time j for the Frontiniacli Grapes feldom ripen till the end 
of September, and then in a bad Year we cannot expeCt them 
without Art. However, the Vines in this worthy Gen- 
tleman's Garden are of long Handing, and have been, by 
his own Directions, order'd and manag'd in a very art- 
ful manner for feveral , Years. And tho' this Year general- 
ly we find fo fmall a quantity in other Gardens, yet at 
this place there are as many as I judge are in the whole 
Country befides. In moft other places that I have 
obferv'd this Year, the common way of management has 
been rather regarded than the rational part; and even 
the beft Gardeners have fail’d in their Pruning the laft 
Year, for the production of this Year's Fruit. 1 much 
wonder, that after the Demonftrations I have given from 
FaCls, ever fince the Year 1717, that Vines would grow and 
profper well to be planted in old dry Walls; and the In- 
ftances I publish'd in the fame Year, in my new Improve- 
ments of Vines bearing beft in dry Rubbifh, or the moft 
dry Soil: I fay, it is furprizing, that fome of thofe to 
whom I gave that fatisfaClion, fhould not guard againft 
excefs of Wet, efpecially when every one, who has judge- 
ment in the Affair of Vegetation, mull know, that over- 
abundant Moifture will deftroy the bearing Quality of 
any Plant, and more efpecially of fuch a kind of Plant as 
delights in dry mountainous Countries, as the Vine is 
known to do; but a common method of Management 
has fo poffefs'd fome People, that they will not give them- 
felves leave to think that an alteration of a Seafon from 
a dry to a wet, will occafion an alteration in a Plant. 
There is one inftance particularly, which I cannot help 
mentioning, relating to Vines, and the neceffity of keep- 
ing their Roots from Wet, which I obferv'd this Year at 
Twittenham, at John Robarts’s, Efq ; This Gentleman has fe- 
veral Vines laid up againft the fide of his Houfe, as full of 
Grapes as I have ever feen any ; but at the bottom where 
they grow, the Ground is paved with Bricks for about 
tenor twelve foot from the Wall they are nail’d to. This 
Pavement, in the laft wet Summer, kept the Roots from 
imbibing, or receiving too much Moifture. and therefore The Country Lady s 
the Juices of the Vines are digefted, and capable of produ- 
cing Fruit this Year; whereas fuch Vines as were not 
growing in dry places naturally, or had their Roots de- 
fended from the violent Wet by accident have few or 
no Grapes at all. My Obfervations this Year, in fome 
places w here there are Pavements, Hill confirms me in my 
Opinion*, and where there was any tolerable Skill in 
Pruning, 1 am perfuadcd every one will find that there 
have been Grapes this Year, or now is on thofe Vines that 
have flood in paved places, where the Pavement defended 
the Roots from the Wet of the laft Year. And as I have 
already mention'd in this, and other Works, the neceftity 
of planting Vines in dry places, for regular Seafons; and 
thefe Inftances fhewing us the advantage of doing the 
fame in w;et Seafons; I think one may reafonably judge, 
that Pavements made over fuch places where Vines are 
planted, as well as Rubbifh and dry Ground to plant 
them in, is the bell way we can take for them. This way, 
particularly in a wet Year, w ill keep our Vines from 
running into long Joints, and the Juices confequently in 
digefling as we find by experience ; for no long-jointed 
Shoots of Vines are fruitful as they ought to be, and rare- 
ly bear any Fruit at all. ’Tis the fhort-jointed Shoots 
that will bear Fruit plentifully ; and w'here there is much 
Wet at the Root, you mufl expedl very few fhort Joints, 
and alfo very little Fruit; Therefore, in this cafe, the 
Roots ought always to be defended from Wet. 
This Year, 1726, was, at the beginning, a gentle and 
moifl Spring, but Jpriland Mxy were hot; which brought 
every thing fo forward, that our Harveft wras about five or 
fix Weeks forwarder than it has been for feveral Years 
pa ft. The Cafe I have mention’d of the Grapes ripen- 
ing naturally, was in proportion to the forwardnels of 
the Harvell; every thing that I have obferved in the fame 
was alike. The laft Year was as extraordinary in 
the latenefs of the Crops, for then every thing was as back- 
ward through the perpetual Rain we had in the Summer, 
Some time or other this Memorandum may be of ufe, if 
my Papers laft fo long; however, for the prefent, confi- 
derhow thefe two different Years have afteCted the Vine; 
the laft wet Year made the Vines {hoot ftrong and vigo- 
rous, and there was no Fruit this Year ; Nor w'as this only 
wfith us in Britain, but every w here in Europe. The laft 
Year produced fuch Floods, from the continued Rains at 
unexpected Seafons, as was never known in the memory Director. 
of Man, the Vines (hot vigoroufly; and this Year there 
were very few Grapes of the firft Crop; but this Summer 
was fo good and favourable, by its warm Months at the 
beginning of the Summer, that the Vines abroad fliot 
out frefh Crops, or fecond Crops of Grapes, which made 
up for the other deficiency. I expedl the next Year from 
hence, that the Vines will produce a full Crop of Grapes 
abroad, becaufe this Year has fettled the Juices, and di- 
geftedthem; but what Seafon there may be for ripening, 
is Hill uncertain, efpecially when we have the two laft 
Years in view. But in our Gardens, I fear, we fliall 
have worfe Succefs ; for what this Year has done, will 
give the Gardeners generally a hard piece of Work; for, 
as I imagine, there was little care taken in the beginning 
of the Year to lay up the Vines, efpecially becaufe there 
was but afmall, or no appearance of Grapes then ; and 
the negledl of that Seafon in managing of Vines, will be 
the occafion of lofing the Crop the next Year. What I 
fay here about the management of Vines in the early 
part of the Year, I have already treated of in my other 
Works. 
I fhall now proceed to give fome Particulars relating to 
the making of Wines of Grapes, which I believemay help 
thofe who make Wines in our Englijh Vineyards, and make 
them ftrongerand richer than they have ufually been, 
Confidering the uncertainty of Seafons, and that eve- 
ry fort of Grape will not always ripen without Art, it 
will be neceflary to contrive how thatDefedl may be a- 
mended. The richnefs of Wine depends upon the ripe- 
nefs of the Grapes ; and therefore w hen Grapes have not 
had the advantage of a favourable Seafon to ripen, the 
Liquor prefs'd from the Grapes, may be amended by boil- 
ing; for this extraordinary Heat will corredt the Juice, 
by evaporating the too great quantity of watery parts. 
This Method, however ripe the Grapes were among the 
antient Greets and Romans, was frequently, if not always 
pradHfed ; and if pradHfed in thofe more Southern Climes, 
svhy is it not as reafonable in ours? But that this is not 
now pradHfed any where in Europe is no reafon W'hy 
Wines may not be the better for it. I fuppofe the only 
Reafon why it is not now pradHfed, is, becaufe it would 
be an Expence and Trouble, more than the Mailers of 
Vineyards have ufually been at; and fo long as they can 
fell their Wines at a conllant Price, they do not care to 
so out of the way: but in a bad Seafon there is no The Country Lady’s 
doubt but even the Wines in France might be meliorated 
by boiling: As in the Inftance of the Frontiniacfi Grapes, 
that are four and unripe, and without Flavour, yet, by- 
boiling or baking, they will gain the high Flavour that is 
found in them when they are well ripen'd by the Sun ; 
but in baking or boiling unripe Grapes in the Skins, one 
muft expeft that the fournefs of the Skins will communi- 
cate a fournefs to the Juices enclofed ; but the Juices be- 
ing prefs'd and boil'd, will ripen and become pleafant. 
In my New Improvements of Planting and. Gardening, I have gi- 
ven large Directions for making of Wine of Grapes, and 
In this, have alfo given variety of Receipts for making of 
"Wines of Fruits of our own growth ; from whence we 
may learn the life of boiling Juices of Fruits, and what 
will require fermenting by Yeaft, and what do not. You 
will find that fuch Wines as are boiled with Sugar are to 
be fermented with Yeaft, and fuch as have Raifins for 
their Foundation, will ferment in fome meafure of them- 
felves. And efpecially obferve, that while any Liquor is 
fermenting, the Veftel it is enclofed in muft be kept o- 
pen till it has quite done working ; for if we (houldftop 
it up before that Aftion is over, it will certainly burft 
the Veftel; or if it has room enough, will turn four, and 
be always thick and troubled. Again, all Wines, and 
other Liquors, muft be ftopt clofe as foon as thev have 
done working, or elfe the Liquors will grow flat and 
dead. Some Wines will ferment fix Weeks or two Months 
after they are in the Veftel, as one may know by the 
biffing Noife which they make; but when that is done, 
then the ferment is over, and they fliould be clofed up. 
But fome Wines will ferment much longer than two 
Months, and then it is a fign that they ftand too hot; 
then they muft be put in a cooler Place, or the outfide of 
the Veftel frequently cool'd, or refrefh’d with Water, 
which will ftop the ferment. Again, fome will not fer- 
ment as they ought to do and then they muft be fet in 
warmer Places, which will raife the ferment. 
In very bad Years we may help our Wines with a fmall 
quantity of Sugar, perhaps a Pound to a Gallon of Juice, 
to boil together; but whether we add Sugar or no, we 
muft be lure to take the Scum off the Wines as it rifes 
When they are boiling. 
In the colder Climates, we ought’not to prefs the Grapes 
fo clofe as they do in the hot Countries, bccaufe in the 
colder parts of the World, and in places the moft remote Director. 
from the Sun, the Skins of the Grapes are much thicker, 
and carry a fournefs in them which ftiould not be too 
much prefs’d to mix with the richer part of the Grape ; 
but in the hotter Climes the Skins of the Grapes are thin, 
and the fournefs redify’d by the Sun, and will bear prefix- 
ing without injuring the finer Juices. 
There is one thing which I (hall mention with regard 
to the Endeavours that have been ufed to make Wine in 
the Hand of St. Helena j a Place fo fituate, that it lies as 
a refting-place between thefe Northern Parts, and the 
Eaft-Indies, and fo remote from other Places, that could 
there be good Wine made there, it would be of great 
help and affiftance to the Ships that fail that way: But I 
am informed by a curious Gentleman, who has had many 
good Accounts of that Place, that the Vines which have 
been planted there, are of fuch forts, as bring the Grapes 
ripe and rotten on one fide of the Bunch, and green on 
the other at the fame time, which furelycan never make 
good Wine. But upon enquiry, they are only fuch forts 
of Grapes as grow in dole Clufters, and therefore the 
fide next the Sun mull be ripe much , fooner than the 
other ; for the Climate there is fo violent hot, that there 
are no Walls ufed behind them to refled: the Heat to ri- 
pen the Backs of the Bunches. 
Therefore, I fuppofe that the beft way to have good 
Wine made in thofe Parts, is to furnilh that Place with 
Vines which may bring their Grapes in open or loole 
Bunches, fuch as the Raifin«grape, and fome others, which 
do not duller $ for then the Sun would have an equal 
effed upon all the Grapes, and good Wine might be made 
of them ; But the worthy Gentleman who told me of 
this, has, I hear, fent to St. Helena a Golledion of fuch 
Grapes as will anfwer the defired End. 
This is likewife the Month when Saffron appears above 
Ground ; fometimes fooner, fometimes later, according 
as the Seafonis earlier or later. This Year I was in 
the Saffron Country, and in the beginning of Aufiuft the 
Saffron-heads or Roots had fliot up fo long in the flower- 
ing part, that the Planters were forced to put them into 
the Ground: I mean, fuch as were defign'd for new Plan- 
tations, which is fooner by nearaMonth than they ufed 
to fprout, though they lay dry in heaps, the Weather 
had fo great an Effed upon them. 
Near Littlebury, Chefterford, Linton, and fome other Pla- 
ces thereabouts, is certainly now the g reateft quantity of 102 
The Country Lady's 
Saffron of any part of the Kingdom ; the famous Place 
noted formerly for it, being at this 
time without it. However, the People of the Places 
which I have named, do not forbear bringing it to Wal- 
den Market, or driving Bargains there for large Quanti- 
ties of it, tho’ the Market at Linton is look'd upon to be 
much the belt. What I have faid in my Country Gentleman 
and Farmers Monthly Director, gives ample Indru&ions for 
the management of Saffron, but I may here add a Word 
or two more concerning it; which is, that confidering 
how many Accidents the Saffron is fubjeftto, that isdry’d 
upon the common Kilns, by the fcorching of it by too 
hot a Fire, and the unskilfulnefs of the dryers; Ido not 
wonder that there is fo much Saffron fpoiled. Where 
there are unskilful Hands employ’d in the drying part, 
one ought to provide fuch Kilns for them as are large e- 
nough to didribute the Heat moderately, and ascondant 
as podible; which may partly be help’d by providing 
fuch a’Fire as may be condant, and not give more Heat at 
onetime than another; for there is a great deal of Judg- 
ment in that. I find, that by the common way, fome 
Saffron is fcorch’d, and fome unequally dry’d, for which 
Reafon I have contriv’d fuch a Kiln as mud neceffarily 
anfwer the end which is propofed in the drying of Saf- 
fron ; that is, to put it into a date of keeping with its 
Virtue in it, and to put it out of the danger of being 
fcorch’d in the drying. This I fhall publifh in my Nitu- 
ul Hifiory of Cambridgefhire and Effex, which will foon ap- 
pear in the World v 
As for the way which is now commonly praftifed in 
the drying of Saffron, it is, when you have provided a 
Kiln, fuch as I have defcribed in my Farmer’s Monthly Di- 
rector, with a Cloth made of Horfe-hair on the top, drain 
the Hair-cloth tight, and lay on two Sheets of Saffron-pa- 
per, that is. a fort of Paper made on purpofe for that 
life, which is very large; and prepare a little Veffel with 
fome Small-beer, and as many Chives of Saffron as will 
make it of a deep Colour to dand by yon; fprinkle over 
the Paper with a Brufh or Feather dipt in this Liquor, and 
fpread your Saffron upon it, either in a fquare ora round 
Figure, about three Inches thick, and cover the Saffron 
with two Sheets more of the fame kind of Paper, and lay 
a woollen Cloth upon them, and over that a Board, which 
will cover the top of the Kiln : View this now and then, 
till you fee that the Steam of the Saffron comes through Director. 
the upper Papers; then take off the Board and Wollen- 
cloth, and taking the Papers on each fide with your 
hands, turn the Saffron in the Papers, fo that the under- 
fide be uppermoft; taking off prefently after the Papers 
which were firft the undermolt, and then linooth down 
the fide of the Saffron that was firft: next the Fire with a 
Knife, fo that it He all equal; then cover it as it was at 
firft, and after a little time turn the Saffron as you did be- 
fore, and fpread then the upper fide even with a Knife 
as you did at firft; then fprinkle your Saffron w-ith the 
Brufh dipt in the prepared Liquor upon the dry parts of 
the Cake, and cover it as before ; let it lie a little, 
and turn it as occafion requires, which may be fdoner or 
later, as the Fire in the Kiln is quick or flow, minding e- 
very time as you turn it, to fprinkle the dry parts with 
the Liquor ; the more it Ihrinks, the oftner you muft turn 
your Cake of Saffron, minding ftill to fprinkle the dry 
parts; and when it has fhrunk about three fourths of the 
firft thicknefs, lay a Stone or Weight upon the Board at 
the top of the Kiln, ofabout feven or eight pound weight, 
the Board already being about ten or a dozen Pounds ; 
When it is dry enough, take it off the Kiln, and the Tap- 
pers it was dried in will be off good ufe; remember to 
keep your Fire gentle and clear. We may note, that a 
Gatherer of Saffron has his Year about ten Pence per Drain, 
and that about fix Pounds, or fix Pounds and a half of 
raw Saffron will dry to a Pound, but generally they allow 
only fix Pounds of wet Saffron to a Pound of dry Saf- 
ron: But that depends upon the Dyers, who fometimes 
out of a wiliingnefs to get Money, do not dry it fo much 
as they ought to do. It is a Rule among the Saffron Plan- 
ters in CamhidgeJJnre,that fixteen Quarts of Saffron-Roots, 
or Heads, will Plant an Acre; and that a full Acre this 
Year produces about feventeen or eighteen Pounds of 
dry Saffron, tho1 the common rate is about fixteen 
Pounds. 
About this time you have many green Melons upon 
the Vines which will not ripen; and befides, if they would, 
that Fruit would now be too cold for the Stomach: 
Therefore it is advifable to pickle them to make them 
Imitate Mango’s, which fome prefer before Mango Cu- 
cumbers. The following is the Receipt to pickle them.  Tfe Country Lady's 
To pickle green Melons? imitation 
of Mango. 
fTiHE Mango is a Fruit brought to us from the Eafi~ 
X Indies, about the fhape and bignefs of a fmall Melon; 
it has a large Stone in it, and comes to us in a Pickle 
which is ftrong tailed of Garlick, but approved by moil: 
People. When we gather Melons for this ufe, we mull 
wafh them and cut them, as directed for the Mango Cu- 
cumbers; then lay them in Salt and Water, ihifting the 
Salt and Water every four and twenty hours for 
nine Days fuccelfively ; after which take them out and 
wipe them dry, and put into the infide of each, which has 
been already feraped, the fame Ingredients diredled for 
your Mango Cucumbers, and tie them up: Then boil your 
Pickle of Vinegar, Bay Salt, and Spices, with thefe Man- 
goes in it; feummingit as it rifes, and with it a piece of 
Allum as direfted in the Receipt of Mango Cucumbers, 
and afterwards follow that Receipt till your Melons are 
fit toufe. 
Now we have Wild Ducks fit for the Table, and it is to 
be noted that thefe Ihould not be larded as Land-Fowls, 
in theroafting of them. It mull be obferv’d, that they 
be fent to Table with the Gravey in them; but before 
they are laid down to the Fire, it is pradlis’d in many pla- 
ces, to chop Onions, with the Leaves of red Sage, and mix 
thefe with Pepper and Salt to be put in the Belly of the 
Ducks 5 and when they are brought to Table, pouraGlals 
of Claret warm d through the Body of the Ducks, which 
with fome Gravey, that mull be fent in the Difh, under 
the Ducks, will make a proper Sauce for them. 
Another agreeable way of eating Ducks, is roafling 
them and eating them with boil’d Onions; they are fome 
times ufed in Soups, and bak’d, and they likewife eat very 
well when they are half roalled, and then cut to pieces 
and llew’d with their own Gravey and Claret. 
Now Stubble Geefe will be in feafon, after they have 
been taken up and fed for a Fortnight or thereabouts, in 
a clofeplace, with Barley and Water; but during their 
confinement, they mull never want Victuals. Note, the 
Barley pull have no mote Water with it than will juft 
cover it, and they mull never have their Corn dry. If Director. 
during the time of their feeding you happen to let 
them out to ramble for a few hours, they will lofe more 
good Flelh in that time, than they can regain in three 
days j therefore when you have once put them up, keep 
them up till they are fit to kill: But if you would have them 
very fat, put them in a Coup for a Week or ten Days be- 
fore you kill them, and feed them with Barley-Meal and 
Water, made aimoft as thick as Parte; and always let there 
be feveral of them together, for a (ingle one will pine, and 
lofe Flelh inrtead of increafing it by Eating. As to the 
drefling of this Fowl while it is young, in the Spring un- 
der the Charadier of a Green Goofe, it is fatted in a Coup 
with Barley-Meal and Water, and being kill’d and fcald- 
ed when ’tis fat, ’tis roafted and eaten with green Sauce, 
or fcaldedGoosberries: But being full grown,as at this time 
of the Year, is roarted, being firft faked and pepper’d with- 
in fide, and faked without fide. Some put an Onion, 
and fome Sage Leaves into the Bodyof the Goofe, and when 
it is laid down to the Fire, and when it is brought to Ta- 
ble it is ferved with Apples rtew’d and malh’d in a Plate 
by the Side i but for the Sauce in the Difli, there need be 
none but fome Claret heated, and pour’d thro’ the Body 
of the Goofe, to mix with its own Gravey. Some alfo fait 
Geefe, and boil them with Greens, as with other fait Meat; 
a Goofe may alfo be bak’d in aPye to be eaten cold. A 
Goofe is to be kill’d, by pulling firft the Feathers at the 
back of the Head, and cutting pretty deep with a fharp 
Pen-knife, between the back of the Head and the Neck, 
taking care that it does not ftruggle, fo as to make the 
Feathers bloody, for that will fpoil them: And ’tis to be 
noted, the Feathers of a full-grown Goofe are worth four 
Pence to be fold in the Country ; this I had from a Gentle- 
Woman in Surrey. In Holland they flit Geefe down the 
Back, and fait them with Salt Peter, and other Salt, and 
then dry them like Bacon j they eat very well, if they are 
boiled tender. The Country Lady’s 
OCTOBER. 
THIS Month is a noted Month for brewing of Malt 
Liquors efpecially._ Brown or high-dried Malt is 
to be ufed as I have mentioned at large in the Month of 
March, under the Article of Brewing; to which I refer my 
Reader, to be fully fatisfied of fuch particulars relating 
to it, as feem to be the leaft confider’d, altho" they are the 
moft contributing to the perfection of Malt Liquors. 
At thisSeafon, Oyfters, Muftels, Cockles, and fuch kind 
of Shell-Filh are good and in feafon •, as for the Oyfter, it is 
not only to be eaten raw, but makes an agreeable Dilh 
ftew'd or in Scallop Shells', and befides, being ufeful in 
many Sauces, are extremely good when they are well 
pickled. Altho’ the Oyfter may feem foreign to a Farm, 
or fome parts of the Country, yet coniidering that we live 
in a part of the World furrounded with a Sea that pro- 
duces the beft Oyfters, and that they are a fort of Shell- 
Fifh which we can keep a long time, and feed them, I 
think it neceftary to take Notice of them. About Colchef* 
ter the Oyfter-Pits are only fmall Holes about twelve foot 
fquare, by the fide of the River, where the fait Water 
comes upland hasa paflageinto them at the height of the 
Tides*, in thefe places the Oyfters are laid, and there grow 
fat, and become green, by a fort of Weed which is called 
Crow-Silk: And this may be done any where if there is a 
River with fait Water, as w ell as by Colchejier, and be kept 
uvo or three Months; fo that I wonder Jtis not praClifed 
in other places. But if we have not this conveniency, 
yet if we lay them in Salt and Water after the Shells are 
w ell wafh'd, juft wdien they come from the Sea, they will 
keep a Fortnight in pretty good order, if the Weather be 
cool, and they can have the open Air ; but then the Salt 
and Water fhould be changed every four and twenty 
hours. The following Receipts are very good for prepa- 
ring them for the Table, Director* 
107 
To flew Oyflers. From Exeter. 
TAke large Oyfters, open them, and lave their Liquor; 
then when the Liquor is fettled, pour off the Clear, 
and put it in a Stew-Pan, with fome Blades of Mace, a 
little grated Nutmeg, and fome whole Pepper, to boil gent- 
ly, till it is ftrong enough of the Spices: Then take out 
the Spices, and put in the Oyfters to few gently, that they 
be not hard ; and when they are near enough, add a piece 
of Butter, and as much grated Bread as will thicken the 
Liquor of the Oyfters; and juft before you take them from 
the Fire, ftir in a Glafs of White-Wine. 
Roafled Oyflers in Scallop Shells. From 
Exeter. 
PRovide fome large fcallop Shells, filch as are the deepeft 
and holloweft you can get, which Shells are fold at 
the Fiflimonger’s at London ; then open fuch a Number 
of Oyfters as will near fill the Shells you defign, and fave 
the Liquor to fettle; then pour a moderate quantity of 
the Liquor into each Shell, and put a Blade of Mace, and 
fome whole Pepper with it; after which, put into your 
Shells a fmall piece of Butter, and cover the whole with 
grated Bread: Then fet thefe on a Grid-Iron over the 
Fire, and when they are enough, give the grated Bread at 
the tops of the Shells a browning with a red-hot Iron, 
and ferve them. 
The fame Perfon who fent the foregoing Receipts, con- 
cerning Oyfters, advifes another way of roafting Oyfters, 
which I think is a very good one, andnot much known. 
It is, to take large Oyfters, open them, and hang them by 
the finny part on a fmall Spit, after having firft dipt 
them in the Yolk of an Egg, and rolfd them in Crumbs 
of Bread ; turn them three or four times before the Fire, 
and bafte them gently with Butter till the Crumbs of 
Bread are crifp upon them, and ferve them hot. As 
for their ufe in Sauces, they are proper with Fifii, 
and are fometimes ufed with Fowls; their own Liquor 
is always put in fuch Sauces where they are ufed. 108 
The Country' Lady's 
For pickling Oyfters, the following is an excellent Re- 
ceipt. 
To pickle Oyflers 
OPen a quantity of large Oyfters, faving their Liquor, 
and lepting it fettle; then pour the Liquor elear 
off into a Stew-pan, and wafli the Oyfters in Water and 
Salt ; After which, boil them gently in their own Liquor, 
1q that they are not too hard. When they are enough, 
take them out, and add to the Liquor fome Mace, a few 
Cloves, fome whole Pepper, a little Ginger, and a Bay 
Leaf or two, and let the Liquor boil, putting to it about 
a fourth part of White-wine Vinegar, letting it continue 
to boil a little more ; then take it off, and let it ftand to 
be quite cold. When the Oyfters are cold, put them in- 
to jars ar Gaily pots, and pour the Liquor writh the Spice 
pold upon them; then tie them down with Leather. 
The Muffel and Cockle may be pickled after the fame 
manner, only allowing this difference ; i. e. that Cockles 
and Muffels are taken out of their Shells by fetting them 
over the Fire, and opening them by the Heat; but before- 
hand the Shells muff bewaflfd very clean, and then muff 
be put in the Sauce-pan without. Water, they of them- 
felves will foon produce Liquor enough : Then as the 
Shells open, take out the Fifh. and wafli every one well 
in Salt and Water; bat as for the Muffels they muff every 
one be carefully look d into, and difcharg’d from that 
part which is call d the Beard, and alfo particular care 
muff be taken to examine whether there are any Crabs in 
them, for they are very poifonous, and as they lie in 
the Mouth of the Muffel may eafily be difcover’d ; they 
are commonly as large as a Pea, and of the fhape of a 
Sea-Crab, but are properly Sea Spiders; theMulfeishow- 
ever where you nnd them. 'are not unwholefome, and it 
is only the eating of this little Animal, which has been 
the occafion of Peoples fwelling after they had eaten 
Muffels, but the goodnefs of the Fifh is well enough 
worth the Care of looking after that. When your Muf- 
fels or Cockles are all clean pick’d and waflfd, lay them 
?o cool; and when their Liquor isivell fettled, pour off 
the Clear, and boil it up with the fame fort of Spices 
above for the pickled Oyffers, with the fame 
proportion of Vinegar; and letting it ftand till it is Director; 
quite cold, put your Fifli into proper Pot?, or little Bar- 
rels, and pour the Liquor upon them till they are co- 
ver'd with it, and ftop them up clofe ; They will keep 
good two or three Months, if the Liquor is now and 
then boiled up, but it muft be always cold before it be 
put upon the Fifli. 
In the management of Cockles for pickling, or for 
eating any other Way, let the Shells be very well wafli'd, 
and then lay the Cockles in a Pan of Salt and Water for 
two or three Days to fcour themfelves from the Sand 
that is in them at their firft taking; but obferve tofliifc 
the Salt and Water every Day. The largeft: Cockles that 
I have obferv'd on the Englijl) Goafts are thofe found a- 
bout Torbay, which are fometimes brought to Exeter Mar- 
ket ; the Fifli is as large as a good Oyfter, and the Shells 
of fome are above two Inches and a half Diameter. Muf- 
fels and Cockles may likewife be ftew'd and grill'd in 
Scallop Shells, as dire&ed for Oyfters. The Muffels after 
they are well pick'd are flower'd and fryed in fome Pla- 
ces, and eaten with Butter and Muftard, and the French 
make rich Soups of them. 
As this is a Seafon when we have plenty of Quinces, I 
fliall infert the following Receipt for making W|ne of 
them, which is very pleafant. 
To make Quince Wine. From Mrs, 
E. B. 
GAther your Quinces when they are dry, and wipe 
them very clean with a coarfe Cloth, then grate 
them with a coarfe Grater or a Rafp, as near the Coreras 
you can ; but grate in none of the Core, nor the hard part 
about it ; Then ftrain your grated Quinces into an ear- 
then Pot, and to each Gallon of Liquor put two Pounds 
of fine Loaf-Sugar, and IHr it till your Sugar is diffqlved 5 
then cover it clofe, and let it Hand twenty four Hours, 
by which time it will be fit enough to bottle, taking care 
in the bottling of it that none of the Settlement go into 
the Bottles. This will keep good about a Year ; obferve 
that your Quinces muft be very ripe \yhen you gather 
them for this life. 
Rabbits ft ill continue in Seafon this Month, and be- 
fides the common way of drefftng them, they may be The Country Lady's 
larded, and dreft in the following Manner j which I had 
from a Gentleman in Suffolk- Make a Farce for them, like 
that mentioned for the Belly of a Hare in the preceding 
Month, and order its management and Sauce as for a 
Hare. A young Rabbit, or Hare, is known by the ten- 
dernefs Jaw-Bones, which will eafily break by 
prefling with the Finger and Thumb. 
# Woodcocks are now in Seafon, and it is to be adver* 
tifed of them, that they are to be only pull’d of their 
Feathers, and not drawn like other Fowls, but the Guts 
left in them ; when they are roafted, they muft be ferv’d 
upon Toafts of Bread, upon which the Guts are fpread 
and eaten, when they are brought to Table. The inward 
of this Bird eats like Marrow; this is generally eaten 
with Juice of Orange, a little Salt and Pepper, without 
other Sauce. The legs of this Bird are efteem’d the mod, 
and are therefore p refen ted to the greateft Strangers at 
Table ; but the Wings and Breafl of a Partridge are the 
principal parts of that Fowl, for the Legs are full of 
Strings, like the Legs of Turkeys and Pheafants. 
The Snipe is of the fame nature with the Woodcock, 
and is ordered in every refpeft like it. Thefe may be 
larded with Bacon upon the Breafl, or elfe flrew’d with 
Salt and Crumbs of Bread, while they are roafling. Be- 
fides the Sauce ufed for Woodcocks and Snipes, the afore- 
faid Suffolk Gentleman has the following, which is Gra- 
vey with a little minced Anchovy, a Rocambole, feme 
Lemon-Juice, and a little White-wine boiled together; 
and when it is ftrain’d, pour it in a Saucer, and ierve it 
with the Fowls. 
Thefe Birds are in plenty among the woody parts of 
England, from September till the end of March, and then, 
they all leave us at one time, except only fuch as have 
been lamed by the Sportfmen, and difabled for flight; 
and then they will breed in England, as there are Inflan- 
ces enough : AhontTunbridge, it is frequent to find them 
in Summer; and I have known the fame in Leicejierflnre. I 
chink if one could take Woodcocks here in Hay-Nets, as 
they da in France, and pinion them or difable a Wing, 
and then turn them loofe again, we might raife a Breed 
of them that would flay with us; but I have experien- 
ced that they will not feed if they are confined in Cages 
or Aviaries, for they rnufl have liberty to run in fearch 
of their Food, which they find for the mod partinmoift 
Places, near Springs; For I have often taken both the Director; 
Woodcock and the Snipe with fuch Snares as are made for 
Larks, by laying them in the Night on the Bank of Rivu- 
lets, orwatry Trenches near Woods. 
NOVEMBER, 
PHeafants are ftill in Seafon, and are now chiefly roafl- 
ed, for they are not fo frequently boiled, till about 
April, and then only the Hens when they are full of Eggs; 
but that, I think, is too deflroying a Way. The boil- 
ed Pheafants are generally drefs’d with Oyfter-Sauce, or 
Egg-Sauce, but the roalled are either larded on the Breafi: 
with fine Bacon-Fat, or elfe mailed and flrew’d with 
Crumbs of Bread fays the SujfoUiGentlem&n who 
fent me the foregoing method of ordering the Woodcock 
and Snipe, fliould be ferved with the fame Sauces that 
are us’d for Partridges. The Sauces in his Directions are 
within a trifle the lame as thofe I have already letdown 
in September for Partridges or Quails, fo that I lhall not re- 
peat them here. 
The Truffle, which I have treated of at large as to its 
Manner of Growth and Seafon of Maturity, in my Gen- 
tleman ani Farmers Monthly Director, affords fuch variety of 
agreeable Dirties, that I have taken care to fend to a curi- 
ous Gentleman abroad for the Receipt how to drefs it; 
They are very plenty in our Woods inEnglani, as I un- 
derftand by feveral who have found them this Summer by 
my Directions, and I believe will be much more fo, fince 
feveral curious Gentlemen have followed my Advice in 
propagating them. It is now, as well as in the two pre- 
ceding Months, that we may find them of a fine Flavour ; 
but they being fomething more in perfection in this 
Month than in the others, I think it the properefl to 
give the Methods of ordering them for the Table in this 
Plac;; The firft manner is to broil them. 112 
The Country Lady 's 
To broil Truffles, 
THE Truffle being brought in frefli, wafli it well, 
and cut off the rough Coat on the out fide : Some 
of thefe Will be as large as one’s Fift, and they are the 
beft for this Purpofe; but let them be of any Size, as 
foon as the Coat is off, cut them through a little morex 
than half-way, and put Pepper and Salt into the open- 
ing, and clofe it again; then wrap up each Truffle in 
wet Paper clofe, and broil them over a gentle Fireof 
Wood-Embers till you judge they are enough, which 
will be as foon as they are very hot quite through ; let 
them be turn’d as occafion requires, that they may be 
all equally done, and then ferve them to the Table in a 
folded Napkin. This is a very good way of eating them, 
but the other I have more frequently eaten. 
To flew Truffles in Wine• 
*TpHE Truffles muft be peel’d from the rough Coat 
X on the outfide, and well-wafh’d; then cut your 
Truffles into flices, and flew them in White-wine, or 
Claret, which you pleafe, with Salt, Pepper, and a Bay- 
leaf ; or in the lieu of that, fome Jamaica Pepper, and 
ferve them. White-wine for this ufe is generally pre- 
ferred. 
To flew Truffles after another man- 
ner. 
GAther Truffles, peel them and walli them, and then 
cut them in flices; after which fry them a lit- 
tle in a Stew-pan, with either Butter or Hog’s-Lard, and 
a little Wheat-Flower; then take them out and drain 
them, and put them again into a Stew-pan with Gravey, 
a bunch of Sweet-Herbs, fome Salt, Pepper, and Nut- 
meg grated; and when they have flewed a little in this, 
flrain the Liquor, and difh them for the Table, garnifhed 
■with Slices of Lemmon. Belides this way, they may be 
ufed in the fame manner as Fow4s are flew’d or fricaffeed. Director. 
with brown or white Sauces, after they have been fof- 
ten d a little by boiling. 
While lam fpeakingof the Truffle, I may well enough 
mention the Receipts for the Management of the Morille: 
Altho’ the Morille grows in April, which is the only time 
when it may be gather’d frelh, yet one may drefs the 
dry’d ones now, by firft foftening them in warm Water 
and Salt for three or four Minutes ; but, as obferv’d be- 
fore, they are bell frelh gather’d. And again, I chufe to 
put the Receipts for their Management in this Place, be- 
caufe they are fo near a-kin to the Truffle. In the firft 
place, I fiiall fpeak of drying them, which I have done 
in England, after the following manner: Gather, and 
walh them, and when they are well drain'd, then lay 
them in aDilh, and dry them by degrees in a gentle O- 
ven; and when they are thoroughly dry, keep them in a 
dry Place, and in a cover’d earthen glazed Pot; but 
when they are frelh, order them according to the fol- 
lowing Receipts. And I am the more ready to thele 
to the Publick, becaufe all fuch who know the niceffc 
way of eating, may not be difappointed in their Travels 
thro’ England, and denied at the Inns fuch things as per- 
haps are as agreeable in that way, as any in the Country. 
Particularly I remember at Newbury, or Spinhamtarid, in 
the publick Road to Bath, I was at the moll publick and 
noted Inn in that Road, and had got fome very good 
Mulhrooms, and the People there were of opinion that 
they were poifonous, or elfe did not know how to drefs 
them, and by nO means they would fend them to the Ta- 
ble. I fay, if fuch Midakes can be made in a Place where 
fo many People of Falhion Travel continually, it is not 
likely that Morilles or Truffles will be received with 
more Favour than my Mulhrooms; and I believe that 
fome of the greatell Niceties of our Country may ever 
remain unknown, wdthout a Work of this nature, which 
I have pick’d up Inch by Inch, viz., in my Travels. And 
.befides, . confidering the llrange difagreeable Coinpofiti- 
ons which One meets with in fome of our Travels, as Su- 
gar with pickled Trout, and many more as ridiculous; 
I think this little Piece of Work not unworth my Time. 
Again, there are many Families in England which have 
plenty ,about them and do not know What to do with 
it;and therefore I think this the more necelTary., But 
tOcOme to my point, the Morille may be drefs’d when it 114 
The Country Lady’s 
is either frefb or blanch'd in warm Water, according to 
the following Receipts, which I had from France. 
To make a Ragoufl of Mori lies. 
TH H Morllles being frefb gather’d, take off the Roots, 
and wafh them in many Waters, for the Wrinkles 
in their Tops harbour a great deal of Dirt and Sand ; 
then flit them lengthways, and fry them a little in a Stew- 
pan, with Butter or Hog’s Lard, letting either be very 
not when you put in the Morilles; then let them drain, 
and put them ina frefb Stew-pan with Gravy, in which 
(bred fome Parfley and .Chervil very fmall, with a young 
Onion, feme Salt, and a little Nutmeg: Let thefe flew 
gently, and fend them to the Table garnilb’d with Slices 
of Lemmon, or they may befent to the Table in Cream, 
as we have already mentioned concerning other things in 
the fame manner. 
To fry the Morilles. 
PRepare your Morilles as directed in the former Re- 
ceipt, and boil them in a little Gravy gently; when 
they begin to be tender take them out of the Liquor, and 
flower them very well, then fry them in Hog’s Lard: 
When they are thus prepared, and make a Sauce tor them 
of the Liquor or Gravy the Morilles were ftew’d in, fea- 
-I'on’d with Salt, Nutmeg and a little Juice of Lemmon. 
The following Directions 1 had from a Gentleman in 
Suffolk The Turkey is now in good Seafon, and may be 
either boiled or roafted ; when it is boiled, it is moll com- 
monly ferved with Oifter-Sauce, and when it is defigned 
for roafting,it may be larded with fine Fat of Bacon on 
the Breafl:, or elfe well flrew’d with Crums of Bread, 
having firfl: made a Farce to fill the Hollow of the Neck, 
where the Crop lay; this Farce may be made of gra- 
ted Bread, Spice, Salt, butter'd Eggs, and fome fweet 
Herbs powder’d, the whole well mix’d and bound with the 
Yolk of a raw Egg; or the Liver of a Fowl may be boiled 
and chop’d fmall and put into it. The Receipt as I re- 
ceiv’d it direCls Beef-Suet chop’d fmall inftead of butter’d 
Eggs; but Mr. John Hughs, a noted Cook in London, tells me 
that Suet fhouid be avoided in thefe Farces, becaufe it is Director. 
apt to cool too foon, and offend the Roof of the Mouth, 
and therefore dire&s butter’d Eggs in their (lead. As for 
the Sauce for the roafled Turkey, it mull be made with 
Gravy, a Bunch of fweet Herbs, fome Lemmon-peel, a 
Shalotor two, and fome whole Pepper andAll-fpice boil- 
ed together and {trained. 
Concerning the Lark, which is now in feafon, the above- 
mention’d Gentleman gives the following Directions: 
Let the Larks be pick’d only, and not gutted, trufs the 
Legs with a Leaf of red Sage to every Lark between the 
Joints of the Legs; then with a Feather dip'd in the Yolk 
of an Egg beaten, wafli the Body of every Lark, and cover 
it_ well with Crums of Bread; after which, cut fome thin 
Slices of fat Bacon, about three Inches long, and an Inch 
broad, and lay the Larks in a Row, Side to Side, with a 
Piece of this Bacon between every two Larks; then have 
Email Spits about ten Inches long, andpafsthe Spits thro* 
the Sides of the Larks and the Bacon, fo that you have 
Haifa dozen Larks upon each Spit, obferving to have a 
Piece of Bacon on both the Outhdes of the half dozen 
Larks; bafle thefe well while they are roafting, and for 
the Sauce for them, fry fome grated Bread crifp in But- 
ter, and fet them to drain before the Fire, that they may 
harden ; ferve thefe under the Larks when you fend them 
to Table, andgamifh with Slices of Lemmon. Some have 
their Lark-Spits made of Silver, and ferve their Larks upon 
the Spits to the Table, by which means they keep hot the 
longer: You may eat them with Juice of Lemmon with 
the fry’d Crums, but fome like fuch Gravy-Sauce with 
them as is direfted for the roafled Turkey, Tho’ the Guts 
are left in the Larks, yet they are not to be eaten. 
In my Travels I obferved a kind of Soop, which was 
very frequently ufed abroad, and quickly ready, that was 
very taking to mofi: Travellers who delighted in favoury 
Diflies, which the People abroad gall Soop cl I'Xvrogne. It is 
made as follows, 
TAke Haifa fcore Onions, peel them, and cut them in 
fmall Pieces into a Stew-pan, and fry them brown 
with Batter, and a little Pepper and Salt; and when they 
are enough, pour fuch a quantity of Water upon them as 
you think proper to make a Soop of them; then let thefe 
boil together, and thicken it with as many Eggs as are 
necellary, keeping it ftirring to prevent the Eggs from 
Curdling. Some add to this a large Glafs of White-wine, 116 
The Country Lady^s 
which I think makes it better tailed than 'tis without it; 
This is ferved with a French Rowl in the middle. At the 
fame .time I met with the following Receipt for Beef A-U* 
fnode, which is as good as any I have eaten. 
To make Zk^A-la-mode. 
TAke a flefhy Piece of Beef, without Fat, and beat it 
well with a Roiling-pin,then lard it with pretty large 
Pieces of Bacon-Fat, and if you pleafe put it over the Fire 
a little to fry till the Outfide is brown, and then put it to 
ftew in a deep Stew-pan, or glaz'd Earthen-Veftel, with 
Salt, Pepper, Bay-Leaves, or Jamaica. Pepper, fome Lem- 
mon-Peel, Haifa Dozen large Mufliroqms, two Cloves of 
Garlick, or four or five Gloves of Shalot, half a Pint of 
Wine, and a Pint pf Water; cover it clpfe, and let it 
ftew gently till it is tender: When it is enough, fry fome 
Flower in Hog’s Lard, and add to it, with fome Lemmon- 
Juice, or a little Verjuice. This very good hot, but is 
for the mpft part eaten cold, cut in Slices of about half 
an Inch thick. 
DECEMBER. 
NO W is the principal Seafon for killing of Hogsj 
as well for Pork as for Bacon, and likewife for 
Brawn. I have already in my other Works given Direc- 
tions for making of pickled Pork and Bacon; fo that I 
fhall fay little of it in this Place, but give the Receipts 
for ordering fome particular Parts of Hogs. The follow- 
Receipt I received from France, concerning the pre- 
paring the Jolepfa Wild Boar, and have had ittry’din 
Englani with the Head of a common Hog, and I find little 
difference, efpecially if the Hag has been fed with Acorns. Director, 
To drefs a Hog’s Head? in imitation 
of the foie of a wild Boar. 
TAke aHog’sHeadand burnit wellallover uponaclear 
Fire, till all the Hair is burnt to the Skin, then take 
a Piece of Brick, and rub the Head all over as hard as pof* 
fible, to grind off the Stumps of the Briftles, and finifli 
the whole with your Knife, and then clean the Head very 
well; when this is done,' you muff take out all the Bones, 
opening the Head in the under Part, and beginning 
with the under Jaw-Bones and the Muzzle, then cleave 
the Head, leaving only the Skin over the Scull to hold it 
together: Take out the Tongue and the Brains; when 
thus you have taken away all the Bones, ftab the FlefH 
with the Point of your Knife in many Places on the Tn- 
ftde, without wounding the Skin, and put Salt into eve- 
ry Incifion, then jqin the Head together, and tie it well 
together with Packthread, and then wrapping it up in 
a Napkin, put it in a Kettle with a large quantity of Wa- 
ter, a large Bunch of all kinds of fweet Herbs, a little Co- 
riander and Annife-Seeds, two or three Bay Leaves, fome 
Cloves, and two or three Nutmegs cut in Pieces, and fome 
Salt, if you think there is any wanting; add likewifetwo 
or three large Onions and a Sprig orjwo of Rofemary. 
When this has boiled half enough, pour in a Bottle of 
Wine, and let it boil three or four Hours longer, till’tis 
tender; for it will not be fo under feven or eight Hours 
boiling, if the Hog be large, and if it is a Boar’s Head that 
has been put up for Brawn, it will take more time to boil. 
Being boiled enough, let it cool in the Liquor, and then 
take it out and untie it, and lay it in a Difh to be carrv’d 
cold to the Table, either whole or in Slices. If you will, 
you may fait it three or four Days before you boil it. 
To m&ke Sdufages? from Lady M. 
TAke the Flefh of a Leg of Pork, and mince it fmall, 
and tq every Pound of the Flefh minced, mince a- 
bout a quarter of a Pound of the hard Fat of the Hog ; 
then beat feme Jamaica Pepper very fine, and mix with 
it fome Pepper and Salt, with a little Sweet-Marjoram 
powder’d, and fame Leaves of red Sage minced very fmall; 118 
The Country Lady's 
mix all thefe very well, and if you fill them, into Gut% 
either of Hogs or Sheep, beat two or three Yolks of Eggs 
and mix with them, taking care not to fill the Guts too 
full, left they burft when you broil or fry them : But if 
you defign them to be eaten without putting them in 
Guts, then put no Eggs to them, but beat the Flefli and 
the Fat in a Stone Mortar, and work the Spice and Herbs 
well in it with your Hands, fo that it be well mix’d, and 
keep it in a Mafs to ufe at your pleafure, breaking off 
Pieces, and rolling them in your Hands, and then flower- 
ing them well before you fry them. If you ufe them in 
Guts, take fpecial care that the Guts are well clean’d, and 
lie fometime in a little warm White-wine and Spice be- 
fore you ufe them; if any Herb happens to be difagreeable 
in this Mixture, it may be left out, or others added at 
pleafure. 
The following Receipt to make Saufages of Fifh for 
Paft-Days, I had at Brnxelles, which I have experienced to 
be very good. 
To make Saufages of Fijh, 
#TiAke the Flefli ofEels,‘or of Tench, and to either of 
I thefe put fome of the Flefli of frefh Cod, or of Pike 
orjack, chop thefe well together with Parfley, and a few 
fmall Onions; feSfon thefe with a little Salt, Pepper, 
Cloves in powder, a little grated Nutmeg, and if you will, 
a little powder’d Ginger, with fome Thyme, Sweet-Mar- 
joram, a little Bay-Leaf,all dry’d and powder’d; and mix 
all thefe well together with a little Butter. 
Then beat the Bones of the Fifli in a Mortar, pouring in 
them while they are beating a Glafs or two of 
Claret, which muft afterwards be poured upon the above 
Mixture; then take the Guts of a Calf well and 
clear’d of the Fat, for in that Condition I find there is no 
fcrupletoufe them abroad, being well difcharged of the 
Fat: Fill thefe Skins with your Mixture of Fifli, &c. 
tying them at both Ends, and lay them for twenty-four 
Hours in a Pickle of Wine and Salt; and taking them out 
from thence,hang them in a Chimney, where they may 
be well fmoak’dwith a Wood-Fire, or burning Saw-duft 
for twenty-four Hours, orlonger if you pleafe, provided 
you have allow’d Salt and Spices enough. When you 
would ufe them, boil them gently in White-wine, with Director. 
a Bunch of fweet Herbs; or in Water, with one third 
part White-wine, and Sweet-Herbs. Thefe are ferved 
cold to the Table, and eat very well. 
The Boars that were put up for Brawn, are now fit to 
kill. It is to beobferv’d, that what is ufed for Brawn, is 
the Flitches only, without the legs, and they mull have the 
Bones taken out, and then fprinkled with Salt, and lay’d 
in a Tray, or fome other thing, to drain off the Blood ; 
when this is done, fait it a little, and roll it up as hard as 
poffible, fo that the length of the Collar of Brawn be as 
much as one Side of the Boar will bear, and to be, when it 
is rolled up, about nine or ten Inches diameter. When 
you have rolled up your Collar as clofeas you can, tye it 
with Linnen Tape, as tight as poffible, and then prepare 
a Cauldron with a large Quantity of Water to boil it. In 
this boil your Brawn till it is tender enough for a Straw 
to pafsinto it, and then let it cool; and when it is quite 
cold, put it in the following Pickle. Put to every Gal- 
lon of Water a Handful or two of Salt, and as much Wheat- 
Bran ; boil them well together, andi then flrain the Li- 
quor as clear as you can from the Brawn, and let it (land 
till it is quite cold, at which time put your Brawn in it; 
but this Pickle mull be renewed every three Weeks. Some 
put half fmall Beer and half Water; but then the fmall 
Beer (liquid be brewed with pale Malt: But I think the firft 
Pickle is the bell. Note, The fame Boar’s, Head being 
well cleaned, may be boiled and pickled like the Brawn, 
and is as much elleem’d. 
This is a good Seafon to make what they call Hung-Beef: 
The way of doing it, is, to the thin Pieces of the Beef, 
and faking them with Salt-Petre about two Ounces to a 
Pound of common Salt, and rubbing it well into the Meat- 
dry it in a Chimney with Wood Smoke. When this i 
thoroughly cured, it will be red quite through,which one 
may try by cutting; for if there is any of the Flefh green, 
it is not fmoked enough. It is, in my opinion, better 
than any Bacon to be boiled and eaten hot. 
This is what I fhall fay, concerning the life of fuch 
things as are generally found about a Gentleman's Coun- 
try-Seat, or about a Farm, which I think will be very ufe- 
ful, tho’ a little out of the common Road, and fo I fhall 
make no Apology for publifhing fuch Receipts as lam 
fure are good. If Ido not ufe proper Terms in fome of 
my Receipts in Cookery, I hare at lead put my Re- The Country Lady\ &c 
ceipts into fuch a Method, as I fuppofe will make them 
intelligible, and what any one may underhand: But I 
mull: take notice before 1 conclude, that the Meaning of 
publifhing this, is to inftrudl thofe who may not have had 
Opportunity ofobfervingotcolledlingfo much as I have 
done and not any way pretending to inform thofe who 
are full enough of Knowledge already. However, I hope 
iuy Readers will be contented tvith what I have here given 
them, and meet with fomething that is New and llfeful. 
FINIS. 
Tn the Prefs, and will be publifli’d in Eafier Term. 
DTCTIONAIR E OECO NOMIQUE: Or, The Fami- 
ly Dictionary. With a Preface by Mr. Bradley, containing di- 
vers Methods of improving Efates, and of preferring Health j the 
TP ays of Breeding, Keeping, and making Profit of Horfes, Kine, Sheep, 
Swine, Poultry, Bees, &x. Great Variety of Rules, Direftions, and 
new Difcoveri§s relating to Gardening and Husbandry, Soil and Manure 
cf all Sorts; planting Fruit-Trees, Foref-Trees, Underwoods, Shrubs, 
and their feveral Ufes, &c. The different Kinds of Nets and En- 
gines for taking all Sorts of Fiji), Birds, and other Game. The befi 
way of preparing feveral Sorts of Waters and Liquors for every Seafon, 
by D filiation and otherwife j of preferving all /find cf Fruits; and 
ether profitable Curiofities in the Confeclionary and Culinary Arts, The 
Method to take or dejiroy Vermtfl and other Animals injurious to Gar- 
dening and Husbandry j with a Defcription of Garden and other Coun- 
try Tools and Utenfils, &c. Illuf rated with great Variety of Figures, 
In two Volumes in Folio.