University of Tokyo
June 12, 1956

Dear Josh,

What good news that you are coming! I hope isther can mke it also;

you would botn enjoy the visit on all counts. ~ut please, Josh, don'!t
protest the junket aspect of your NSF grant. You have gs .uctoing to give,
and may gain many things in return. Of course it is a luxury, but our
nation's economy can support many more frivolous. “urthsrmore, you
would not be consistent if you protested that the sum sould be given

to some poor Indians, for then you ought not to live as well at home as
you do.

O.K. - you're coming, and want some suggestions. I'll do my vest but

Ow

I'm mak sure Iino can improves on my remarks.

1. itinerary - a tourist flight overseas is as comfortable as a first-
Class one back home. wWe always fly that way, and sometimes get tourist
accomodations on Ist class flishts. You won't be tired.

If you arrive a week early you'll have a chance to look around Tokyo and
its environs a bit and enjoy Kabuki and Noh drama, etc. short and fas-
cinating trips can be taken to Nikko, Kamakura, Hakone, atami Hot -orings,
and the Izu veninsula. But you can fit what you wish into your schedule
wien you arrive, no plans are necessary. You might even be able to take
one of these trips with someone you wisned to talk witn, and the sational
Institute of venetics is near Hakone (go is “uji-san).

If you can make a start at getting a few people to gather in Tokyo a few
days before the symposium, I'li follow through and try to add a few
others here and make arrangements. Your list of Japanese you want to
see is good ~- Uetake, Iseki, FPukimi and Kikxawa. I'd add lsujita,
Watanabe Itaru, “atanabe Tsutomu, “shida, a couple of nikkawa's students,
and a few more. (You should and will also in23t some outstanding chaps
outside of our field, such as ‘amiya, Sakaguchi, Yanagita, Kihara, Van,
Yamashita, .latsuura, Komai, etc.) I understand that there is a good
chance that tne following foreign microbial geneticists might attend:
Novick, “eadle, Watson, Hollaender, Demneree, Ephrussi, Slonimski, teslot,
Haemmerling, Plough 4, Stendt, Winge, Lindegrens, Woodward, 5. “merson,
D. Sonner(?), and Marshak.

Tne second part of the Symposium will be held in Kyoto, one of Japan's

old, lovely places (Tokyo is roaring modern). Take the organized e¢ x-
cursion in Kyoto and, if possible, see nearby Nara and especially

soryuji (ask Iino). The longer plained excursions would be fasinating,

but will take time. If you had just a few days over, it «lght be better to
wisit Kikkawa at nearby Osaka; I understand ne is arranging a s.uall
post-Symposium meetings on nucleic acids with Mirsky, vatson, and -vwarshak.
Mayos from there you could take a boat in the evening on the Inland Sea
(Setonaikai) to Yakamatsu and Yashiima on Shikoku, end return the next Gaye

2. Bageage - the weather will be warm, so bring summer clothes and a
raincoat. Travel as lightly as possible, for-you may want to take
souething back with you.

3- Accomodations - the hotel to which you are assigned will write you
directly. whe Organizing Committes is still working on this. They (herefs )
will all be western style, i.e., with chairs, beds and toilets; nice

ard comfortable, but not expensive (probably less than «5 a day, with
breakfast). I wish we could put you up, but with one tatami-ed sleeping
room in our tiny house it isn't possible. Jowever, if you will give up
privacy completely, we'll invite you to stay with us for one night to

see wiat it's like + raw fish, o-furo, and all.
urfiad
‘le aXpenses - hard for me to say. Probably cas {10 a day because of
the type of life you will have to lead - taxis end so on.* One can
live very cheaply here, but it involves settling; you won't want to
waste your time saving a few $3. Settled here, I blow my top wnen
our dally expenses (excluding rent) exceed 2 a day for the three of
us (Takao-san, our maid). Carry your money in Yraveller's checks -
the 75¢ per wl0O insurance is worth it (I once lost 50 of theml).

I am sure when you are here you will want to buy some things to take houie.

Of course you can sped as much here as anywhere, but many things are

really inexpensive and of good quelity - cameras, microscopes, tape

recorders, binoculars, and indigenous iters like Lacquer ware, pottery,

par bucod pearls, silk, ete. You can take back y500 worth of stuff duty
Preee

You may also want to bring some gifts to Javan with you; you will be
embarrassed by the hospitality and the VIP treatment. there are many
cheaplyimade cigarette lighters, fountain pens and so on nere, but good
Ronson lighters, American fountain pens, or Kodachrome (preferably
developing not included) are exorbitantly expensive here and much  .

coveted. Long-flaying classical records are aso much appreciated. feprek
As a basis for corparison, a newly graduated research assistant rere will

earn about {30 a month, a first-rate full professor maybe 150 a month.
lie can live cheaply at home, but many things, such as imported goods,
clothes, hotels, and restaurants are dear. ‘Yet they shower us with
expensive sifts. Yometimes, when an assistant can't afford a dollar
for train fare to a picnic, he will allow me to pay it. any extra
American presents you don't unload, we'll take off your nands, for we
ars burdened with giri.

5. Language - we are dolts, ~etty less so tuan I, but even she can't
interpret a discussion. “ut some Japanese easily can. uJave Lino
teach you a few polite phrases; then when you arrive you won't be
mistaken for a Frenchman, for you wil have tried.

6. Books - cheap editions, worth buying, are put out by VYhas. Tuttle
Publishing Co., ilutland, Vermont, and, when awailable in addition to
another edition, are marked with *.

Rutan senedict The Vhrysanthemum and the Sword.*
(an excellent anthropological study)
Vonald Keene anthology of Japanese Literature. «*
(Collected with taste.)
J. Osaragi Homecoming. (A translation of a fine siodern
novel that is at the same time educa&tional.)

In addition, you may want to browse in the library among:
Lady Murasaki The Zale of Genji (Trans. by #rvhur waley)

a. 4eischauer Japan Past and Present.
N.B. James Michener The #loating world.

Susuki Studies in 4en.
waimbree n Javanese Village, Suye ijura.

 

Finally, thers are good translations of akutagawa's worss, appa, .
saghomons, etc. (See the film, Gate of Hell, if you haven't already);
and diverting as wall as scholarly works by Lafcadio Kearns, “riuest
Fenollosa and szra Pound. In the front of the Tourist's Muide to Japan.
there are lots of good, brief articles on such tings as history,
economics, arcnitecture, language, etc.

I told “inoto of your pending visit; he was overjoyed, and wants you to
talk. Please get in touch with him again for arranfsoments.

we look forward to seeing you - both (?) - and or your side, be pre-
pared for anything.

et fet hein 4 tee

Lt.

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All best wishes and congratulations to Hans and Jim vrow as weil,
both of whom are welcome to ths information this letter contains.

Sincerely,

P.3. Soneone wrote that the CSH Symposium this June would be very
interesting, and was gorry I would not be able to atterd. He failed

to mention the subject and such news trickles to Ja.an slowly. what
was it on? Not genetics again I hope, but I fear so - 149i), 194.6, 1951

W--- ?

P.P.S. we just had a letter from ‘jans, as you predicted. therefore,
to save me time and money, will you please be sure to stow him this?
(iy apologies, Hans, for not writing a sevarate letter - perhaps later.) >
a Poom at the YMCA costs ca. 42.30 per day with beeakfast. There are
probably emen cheaper Japunese yadoya, but those Betty and I have stayed
at in our travels were nore expensive, but every bit worth tue cost. I
would strougly recomiend that at some time during your trip all of you
plan to stay at least one nignt in a yadoya (ca. wi without seals). ‘he
ervironmsnt, service, and food can be wonderful - there is notuing Like
it in the west - but you must wear yukata, sleep on quilts on the floor,
usually ..0ot with the girl who is assigned as your attendant, and may
have to usé a conmunal bath.

dR