6

April 25. To Cabo. Dr. Edison not returned. Bene-
dito Pina not at work and is fired.

April 26. To Olinda. Received 708900 of Dr. Alencar
money of Amaro Santa Anna who died in the post.

Receipts of pharmacy 8500

58500
Casket 858000
Direitos 34000

Contents of trunk of Amaro:

MEE HY ENDER PEPPY

straw hat 1 eyewash
bottles of Brillantine 1 fountain pen
soap 1 pen
arithmetic 1 green handkerchief
watch (Omega) 1 pillow
neckties 1 sheet

cap 1 whitecoat
drawers 1 shirt

Dolmas kaki i pair of socks
trousers (Casimir) 1 pair perneiras
toothbrush 1 paper box with
collars Vales cigarro
police badge 1 pair of shoes
handkerchiefs

May 7. Passage Itapure Recife io Kehi» 55$700.

May 8. Maceio. See Kenneth Kirk again and
receive from him a mosquito net loaned to

him at Porto Calvo. (I was at Porto Calvo inves-
tigating some suspect yellow fever cases with the
help of the local medico of the State Dept of
Hygiene. We had checked upon 4 cases sufficiently
to feel assured that they were yellow fever.

We head returned to the hotel and were idly talking
when two men rode up on horseback. One was
palpeabfly a Brazilian but the other with his long
frame, clear skin and blue eyes might have been
English, Scotch, Scandinavian or American. I
spoke to my colleague who understood no English,
and at the sound of my voice, Kirk, for it proved
to be he, asked, "Are you an American?" Pleading
guilty we were soon on rather intimate terms and

I learned that he was a S.0. of Brazil employee,
heart loese and foot free; drinking the water

as he came to it and taking no thought of mos-
quitoes nor mosquito nets. The hotel keeper who
was about 100% African in origin found a net

for him that night and I left him mine the follow-
ing day for his further travels in that section.
Following this incident I wrote to Mr. Boeténa
of the S 0 suggesting that al] men sent north
should be properly instructed regarding choice
of drinking water and the use of mosquito nets. )
Kirk later left S.O. in Rio and finally contr-
acted TB after merrying a Miss White of White
Steamer Car fame. )

May 9th Arrived in Bahie. Find Dr. LW Hackett
already here with a Mr. Campbell oF rane Valve
Co.

May 10th We go to Peri-Peri, close to Bahia
to see a hookworm post with Dr. Jansen de Faria.

4,
May 11th/To Santo Amaro With Dr. LWH,Dr. Jansen
and Dr./Barroso Chief of P.R. (Dr. Barroso later, %.—
had difficulties with Dr. White over C.F.A.
work in Bahis)

May 12th Visit Medical Feculty of Bahia. The
buildings are superior to those of Rush (1921)
but there is little practical or laboratory

instruction. Cape

Cortes +
May 13. Almocamos on Vatape at the home of
Dr. Jansen. Having lunched well we started to
the city in the "bonde." The car being empty
we took a front seat and then both Hackett and
I stretched out with our feet in the opposite
seatand got all set to digest our load of
vataka. Directly a Brazilian with his wife and
child took seats behind us and the following
conversation ensued in Portuguese between husbend
and wife
Husband, "Do you know the nationality of these
men in front of us?"

"Nao, Nao Sei."

"They are North Americans!! I know because
they have their feet in the seat. The North
Americans are the only people in the world who
will sit in one chair and put their feet in
another." This rather irritated Dr. Hackett
who made some remarks abbas to me fortunately
in English, ab 7 si > ef P les

‘ \
Mey 14th Hackett and I embark on train for
Propria on the San Francisco River. We were
the only passengers in the sleeping coach and
the only possible prospects for tips both for
the sleeper and dining car attendants. Need-

less to say we got od attent
consulted fours” befSrenand whe Ope wie nk betas
for the next meal.

May 15th Arrive in Propria late in the afternoon.
Everyone congratulates everybody else over arriv-
ing on schedule and on the cars having been
derailed only 5 times on the two day trip. It
seems that this is a record! (It is nothing
short of marvelous to observe how rapidly and
easily these train crews put coaches back on

the rails.) The hotel proprietor claims that
mosquito bar is unnecessary as there are hardly
any mosquitoes in Propria. His rain barrel
however is full of larvae and we order nets .
placed!

We passed through Aracaju (Sergipe) and Hackett
had to laugh at the chief statue of the place
which represents the figure of a men facing the
Atlantic with his plug hat held high eloft in
his right hand in greeting to Africa.

May 16 - We take river steamer for Piranhas.
This trip is very beautiful the river which is
wide and deep being flanked in many places by
low lying hills. One of the most striking of
these glories in the name “Pao de Assucaol"
The sail boats on this river are of a somewhat
different type from that I have seen elsewhere.
They are "turtle-backed" and "bat winged." The
dome deck construction gives a maximum of pro-
tected cargo and living space and as most of the
cargo is cotton or cohton goods little or no
deck cargo is carried. The river is wide and
runs in this part of its course almost streight
so that little tacking is necessary; the winds
are generally constant also which makes it desirable
to spresd as much sail as possible. This is done
by using two large triangular sails on a central
mast thus . Of course one or two smaller
sails are also used. When these boats are seen
at a distance, especially if they are carrying
striped sails, as many do, the picture is not
soon to be forgotten.

We arrived in Piranhas (named from the goracious
large mouthed flesh eating fish so plentiful
in these waters) and were taken by special train
to Pedra. The special train was for the benefit
of the military commender of Alagois who happened
to be along. We took advantage of the facilities
offered him, At Pedra we were entertained at the
expense of the cotton factory by Sur Ioni. The
big output of the factory is cotton thread.

WL

Merde 17th Visit Falls of Paulo Affonso. (See
account of trip July 1921) and thread factory.

ce
Marat 19th Auto Pedra to Granhuns. Much rain
fell by spasms during the day.
4

At about 1:30 PM I offered to bet that it would
rain more than half a dozen more times during the
day. Hackett accepted and set the definition of
rain as being a precipitation separated from
other periods of precipitation by the casting of
a shadow. When night fell 5 rains had occurred
but moon rose and cast the necessary shadows

and we arrived in Garanhuns with 7 rains to our
credit. Hackett disallowed the last two because
the shadow was not cast by the sun.

May 20th Train to Ribeirao where we visit post.

Mey 21st Train to Recife. last night LWH and

I stept on canvas cots in the same room at the
hotel. Before retiring I asked for more bedding
but was told there was no more to be had. At
4AM I srose and dressed becayse I was cold! WH
whose b48@d is not so thin, hearing me moving
about and learning the cause offered me his
bedding which I refused. Today when the incident
was mentioned to Mr. Batham of the St. Western 4.
of Brazil he proceeded to get out his record of
max. and min. thermometer readings for the
previous night. The minumum at Gemelleria,

only a few kilometers from Ribeirsao and at the
same attitude etc. was 70 F.!!

S
May 22. Mr. C.R. Cameron, Vat consul end DWH
to dinner.

May 24. To Caruaru a point of interest from
standpoint of pestx, Almost eveyy year cases
occur during the cotton gathering season: when
the cotton comes to the warehouses the rats also
come and bfing about a closer contact between man
and rat fleas. Shortly before Caruaru was to

be installed I received a wire from Dr. Attico
Seabra, our director in Maralihdo, stating that
he was on the eve of moving the hookworm post

to Via but that bubonic plague had appeared
there and asking for instruction. My reply

was that all precautions should be teken but to
go right ahead and install work in Viayfna as
planned. This was done and no ill results
occurred,

When hewever the same situation came up regard-
ing Caruaru, the matter was much more personal,
but 1 abided by my previous decision and again
disregarded the plegue. Vaccine which is supposed
to give some protection from about 12 days to
6 months after injection was available and all
employees going to Carueru were vaecinated,
many under protest. Iffailed to take the vaccine
at this time. Instead of going to Caruaru with
the personnel, I went first to Maceio the capital
of Alagoas. While in Meceio I visited the
Ofer BA

Prophylexia Rural and found that the Director
was in Rio. However on his desk was a familiar
package which with the help of a servant I plifered
of some 20 tubes of plegue serum, which is
thought to give ‘immediate protection of some
days duration and which is also of value in
treatment of early cases. From Macio I returned
to Recife and almost immediately went to Caruaru.
At Caruaru I took en injection of serum and another
of vaccine. Paulo, the secretary of the Recife
office who was with me took the same under protest.
The following day we returned to Recife and found
a telegram stating that the microscopist at
Caruaru had come down with plague that day.
(Paulo was white eyed with fear as we had worked
the previous day in the same room with the
microscopist but congratulated himself on having
taken the serum and vaccine.) I proceeded to
vaccinate Juliet and Damiana much to their pain.
The microscopist received immediate injections
of the Macéio serum and made a speedy recovery.

In connection with this serum the delicate
question arose as to whether the limited supply
of serum should be made svailable to cases in
the community or should be held in reserve for
possible cases in our own personnel for whose
presence in the plague srea we were directly
responsible. Our answer to the question will not
be noted here.

May 26 Dr. Hackett leaves for Rio. (It was on
arrival in Rio from this trip that LWH developed
his case of "measles" (dengue?) during which

he wrote his famous autobiography which appeared
in the bulletin of the I.H.B.) Meet Dr. Sousa
Arafjo for the first time. It was he who called
down Dr lodoknhy Machodopor working in the lab-
oratory without a coat and whistling while at
work, “Coisas dos Americanos." I received his
visit in shirt sleeves rolled to the elbow.
Meeting him at a coffee house Dr. LWH began to
expound on the situation revealed by the federal
census and among other things mentioned that
there were 18000 fucambos*in Recife. "How many"
asked Dr, Araujo taking out his notebook. "Eight
thousand" replied Dr. Hackett giving me a warning
glance to not correct him.

June 4th Mr. A. Rice, H.C.Fraser, RebcoY and

I leave Recife on horseback at 2 PM; @ine at
Tiuma; change horses; end ride to Floresta dos
Legos, where we sleep from 3:30 AM to 5:30 AM,
Then back to Olina where we arrive at 1PM

too tired to eat. At 3 PM start to Recife to

get Ford to go to Morenos with Drs Servulo Limay
Waldemar de Sa Antunes, Inauguration of post,
Dinner, Singing and dancing occupy us till almost

*Mucambo - mud hut
Moorreans.

midnight then return to Olinda. Needless to say
I failed to awaken the following morning. The
ride was estimated at 126 kilometers in 23 hours,
much of it st a gallop. Freser and Rice would
not admit they were even sore from the ride.

June llth Itasussce’ for Maceio.

Sunday June 12. Re Posse do Governador. Foot-
ball game in the P.M. Governor proceeds to make
sport of the Portuguese used in my note to him
regarding cases of yf in Porto Calvo. I say
nothing but feel like asking him to write a note
in English!

June 13th Conference with Dr. Fernandes Lima

and lunch at the Palace. Again I get scored

for my poor Partuguese and finally tell the
governor as politely as possible and with a

smile on my face, that in order not to disturb
him with my "foreign" Portuguese that our future
negotiations well be carried out through a Brazi-
lian doctor who speaks good Brazilian Portuguese.
(And so it has been. I have not since seen
Fernandes Lima. )

June 15th Return to Recife

July lst Cabo to ATogados 30 minutes in the rain.
Score 2 dogs, 2 blackbirds.

8
July 2nd Rice's leave Recife for good. JBoetsma
in town.

July 4th Famous 4th at Santa Isabel Theater;
dinner at Fraser's, Fraser's trousers lost, much
rain, lete dinner. Fraser finally goes in my
trousers 50% too big for him.

July 6th Start for Paulo Affonso. Jule and I
and the Ford go by train to Gamelleria and

remain over night with the Batham's. Two glasses
of mil& to drink.

July 7th Mr. and Mrs. Batham and FS & JS go to
Garanhuns on train. Cold and wet.

July 8th Caraven consisting of ome Ford with
Bathams and Sopers and one Oldsmobile truck with
2 chauffers and food and drink sets out for

Santa Anna do Ipanenfa. Trail is lost but leter
found. Rain slows progress and finally about nine
P.M. both cars settle in sandy gravelly liquid

and remain in spite of 3 hours hard work by all
hands. The #irls sleep in the truck the chanffers
on the truck seat and Batham and Isin the Ford.
Lannpoiy

7

Morning light reveals our situation to be in the
midst of a small cluster of houses, the existence
of which had escaped us in the darkness. fhe
inhabitants bring hot coffee and help get the
cars out of the mud. The place is called San

Ajrtopiio.

July 9th Through rein and cactus and catinga
country with many goats we finally arrive at
Santa Anne. A town of some size and much move-
ment on’ fair day.

July 10 Rested in Santa Anna

July 11 Through more goat country to Pedra.
Put up in Cotton Factory House.

July 12 and 13 to Piranhas and to Jatobé inspect-
ing RR Line.

July 14th To visit once more the Paulo Affonso
Falis. Jule does not like the high bridge on
foot. Visit to thread factory using power of
Faaas. (Some years later this factory was bought
up by the British thread interests and dismantled
to prevent it from influencing the price of
thread in Brazil.

July 15th. Leave early with car and truck.
Batham and I stop to hunt duck, but after some
time a cautious warning comes to move on since
lampeo passed the night with his band of bandits
not Par from the pond we had stopped at and had
made people prepare him food. We return towards
Pedra to find the truck which had had engine
trouble and in so doing run into and through

® group of men probably soldiers but of doubt-
ful appearance. Sheared axle pin on Ford is fixed
with foil from film but eventually the Ford has
to be towed and is towed into the River at

Santa Anna about midnight where it remains until
morning. Hotel about 1 AM is pretty dead and
herd to awaken.

July 16th Cars brought in by two yoke of o-xen

and repairs begin by local blacksmith. Nickel

on fender for boys who can pick it off and hold it.
July 17th Santa Anna to Garanhuns OK

July 18th. Train to Gamelleira - Drink glass
of milk and second glass at Betham's.

July 19th Train to Recife.

July 26th To CaruariL
July 28th To Olinda

C
July 29th To Morenos - Drs Amilkar and Alencar Nevd
to dinner.

July 30, Dr. Alencar returns to Rio.
Aug 3rd. Vapor Acre for Sao Luis

4th. See James Sisters in Natal.

Ls

7th. Sunday - Fortaftezg

8th. Sao Luiz

9th. Take Boat called Bardo de Guara ja
to Vermelho. Sleep in hammock over dining room

table.

10th. To Vianna by canoe.

TRIP TO MARANHAO, August 1921

 

August 3. The Acre was scheduled to go yesterday
but like so many things this side of the Equator was
delayed and only left today. I am well supplied
with Portuguese literature and plenty of work from
the office. The sea is rather rough but the boat

is the best I have been on of the Lloyd Brazilian
boats. The food is actually edible and the service
is not bad. There are a number of English or
Americans on board. Spent most of the afternoon
asleep in the lounge.

August 1. Last evening I overheard two passengers
conversing in English and immediately spotted the
woman for an American, There's no mistaking Ameri-
can slang when it gets this far from home. She is
a gray haired woman of doubtful age, but well pre-
served and might be anywhere from thirty-five to
fifty years of age. Her companion is an elderly
man, very anemic and pale, and this anemia is
accentuated by the snow white fringe circling his
65

head above the ears. The snowy mustache and goatee
fail to conceal the fact that he is using artificial
grinders upstairs and down,

The boat stops in Cabedello late in the afternoon
but no one goes ashore. My cabin mate is a lad
thirty-two years old but with a young outlook on
life. He is from Ceara and his family runs true to
type. Ceara is noted for families that rival in
size those of the Jewish patriarchs. The eldest son
of a family of 1, whose photographs he carries with
him and proudly displays, he has known enough of the
skimpy side of a large family to undertake nothing
along that line himself. One brother is a doctor of
medicine and another is a lawyer while this boy has
gone into business for himself. The doctor of the
family spent some two years in Acre--the Alaska of
Brazil as far as isolation is concerned but very
different in respect to climate. Here he was able
to save thirty contos (about 7,000 dollars) and is
now the company doctor for an agricultural company
engaged in the exploration of matte, or South Ameri-
ean tea, on the frontier of Brazil and Paraguay.
With another 8,000 dollars which he expects to save
there, he plans on going to Europe to complete and
finish or polish his medical education. Then with

a full German office outfit he will return to Ceara
and set up in the old home town.

August 5. I entered into conversation today with the
passengers suspected of being Americans far from home.
The diagnosis proved to be correct. The woman states
that she is seeing South America as a relaxation from
the strain occasioned by the care for several years
of an invalid father. The father having died, the
daughter, being a widow with a competence, started
from San Francisco along the coast, visiting Panama,
Yuatemala, Sao Salvador, Guayaquil, Peru, and Chile,
and then crossing the Andes mileback through the snow
to Argentina. From Buenos Aires she travelled over-
land to Rio de Janeiro, visiting the falls of Iguassu
and the capital city of Paraguay on the trip. She
spent some time in Rio and but for lonesomeness would
have remained there. She now has passage aboard the
Acre to Manaus. From there she expects to go to Dutch
Guiana, Trinidad, Venezuela, and Colombia. She is
the possessor of a German name but is undoubtedly of
Irish descent.

Her companion she met aboard the boat after leaving
Rio. He is a doctor--a ship's doctor to be more
explicit--who missed his boat in Rio and is trying
to intercept it in Para. He can never be less than
66

sixty-eight or seventy years of age, but seems to be
quite interested in the widow. When in her presence
I asked him his age, he replied "Forty-five." Noting
the look of surprise on my face, he assured me that
he had been white headed since he was thirty years
old, that it ran in his family. The widow then spoke
and said that if the doctor was forty-five, that she
was twenty-seven.

We arrive in Natal at five p.m. I go ashore for
jantar after suggesting that we three Americans visit
the Domestic Science school in Natal in the evening.
Plans are made to meet on the dock at 7:30 p.m. What
is my surprise to find the widow alone on the dock at
7:30. She was not real sure that I wanted the old
doctor along and so she had slipped off and left him.
Of course if I insisted we would take a boat out to
the Acre and get him. No, I did not insist.

We went to the school and visited with the James sis-
ters. South Carolinians, the elder came to Pernambuco
some years ago as an instructor in domestic science
in one of the missionary schools. Later, at the
invitation of the State of Rio Grande do Norte, she
had left the school in Recife with a leave of absence
of two years to found the State School of Domestic
Science in Natal. At the end of the two years, ano-
ther leave of five years had been granted. Three
years ago she returned to the United States to
recruit her teaching staff and brought back with her
a number of American girls. By the end of the first
year, these had all deserted her, some going to Rio
to work in business houses at increased salaries and
others going into matrimony. The only one to stay
with her is her sister, a graduate nurse, who has
taken charge of the nursery. She seems to be very
interested in this part of the work but feels very
keenly the lack of medical preparation. The end of
this school year will probably see her back in the
United States beginning her course in medicine.

(She is much more attractive than she was when I
visited the school one year ago, and I do not believe
that she would escape the bonds of matrimony very
long in the United States.)

At ten o'clock we bid the sisters good night and go
back to the boat. The widow sorrowfully goes to bed.

August 6. All day on the boat. The widow proposes
playing poker. I insist that I do not know the game
buthave no objection to learning with a hundred reis
67

limit. So we start with the deck stripped rather low.
The first three times that I deal the cards my hand
shows four of a kind. The doctor says that if we were
playing for money he would think that I were a crook.

August 7. Ceara comes into view early. I go ashore
to get a decent meal and to buy some lace for the

frau and for the Boetsmas. In the city one finds more
life in the cafes than in any other place in the north
of Brazil, with the exception of Paré. In fact, my
impressions here were those of my first days in Para.
One always takes a bath landing in Ceara but I think
it is worth it to get a good meal.

The doctor's visit has no more than been made than
the first-class passenger deck is crowded with lace
sellers. However, the same lace can generally be
bought cheaper ashore, and we are not tempted by the
gorgeous display aboard. Ashore the vendors of lace
are in the public market. There they sit on a wooden
stool with a chair in front of them for their customer
and their wares arranged around them in a circle in
large wooden boxes. Handkerchiefs, night shirts for
women, woven shirts for men, bed spreads, babies caps,
doilies, and many things for which a mere man could
never imagine a use, all worked by hand, are spread
out for examination. Lace, lace, lace. While one

is examining the goods at one of these booths, he is
surrounded by from three to ten women, who in their
dress show their extreme poverty, who importunately
implore him to look at their goods. Hach of them has
a dirty cardboard box containing one or two pieces,
the work of their own hands, which the dealers have
probably refused to purchase. Crowding in among these
are beggars, blind, halt, and dirty, asking an esmola
por amor de Deus.

One goes through the entire collection, sorting and
resorting the desirable pieces and asking prices.

One does not pay much attention, however, to the
prices asked. One lays aside what he wants, makes a
mental calculation of what the material is worth, and
says that he will give so much. No. NO. NO. For
the love of God, the thing is impossible. The price
of thread is so high, and everything is hand made,
and it takes so many months to make what the senhor
has chosen and the price paid the maker was so much
more than the price offered. Very well. And the
senhor starts away and begins looking at the material
displayed in a neighboring booth. Customer! Come
back! Maybe we can make an adjustment. And then
~
r
Mee
a
~,

68

begins the haggle in earnest. Eventually a reasonable
price is secured and the material purchased. Reason-
able price! No, there is no reasonable price for the
hand labor that goes into the making of these laces,
but a reasonable price is one that gives a reasonable
profit to the dealer who buys at the lowest possible
price from the makers,

August 8, Aboard.

August 9. Bid the widow and the doctor good bye. Stn Famrg
Arrive on shore top side up. Baggage goes to be
disinfected. This is done in a dirty little hole
down by the water's edge. The baggage is all piled
out in the street, just out of reach of the tide

but not out of reach of the rain. The passengers

are mostly there with their trunk keys, because all
trunks must be opened during the disinfection.
Everybody is peeved but everybody agrees that it is

a good thing. But if a good thing why is it that

the same thing is not done in the other ports of
Brazil, Everybody agrees that the service here is
too particular or that the service in the other ports
is very lax--and nobody seems to know which it is.

At last the chief of the service arrives and the bag -
gage is piled into the room and the formaline disin-
fectors lit. After twenty minutes in the rain, the
passengers egp get their baggage in the rain.

August 10. Visit Dr. Costa Rodrigues and Dry Cassig
Miranda. Buy passage on the Barao de Guerajt from
Sao: Iwiz to Barro Vermelho, “~~~ GRapae

 

se ee

GRASAY
huge Gal

secend Dc
During this Set visit to the state of Maranhao I oe
was charged with the responsibility of visiting the
Rockefeller Foundation's Hookworm Disease Post at
Vianyla and of preparing a report on the work done
there. Dr. Attico 6@abra was the chief of the Foun-
dation's activities there. He had been taught to
handle the necessary finances and keep accounts
sufficient for a rotating fund and had been trained
in making out the monthly reports of the Hookworm
Disease Camgaign. He had, however, no experience
in preparing summary reports, which was one of the
objects of my visit. I still have memories of
sitting with him in the post in Vianna and labor-
ously asking him in my very poor Portuguese for
certain data, only to receive what became the stan-
dard classic answer, "so sommando"! (Only by adding!)
And so we spent most of the time in Vianna only
adding and preparing the report.

Bore Vanvaihy Tapenr ¥
The boat to,Viayina left Sao Luiz during the middle
of the night. Sao Luiz being one of the places in
Brazil which has a very high tidal variation in
water level. Fortunately, I went to the boat after
dinner in the evening, expecting to have a cabin
or at least a bed in a cabin, only to learn that
the boat was not provided with individual cabins,
but with one large enclosed space where the female
passengers slept.

The male passengers slept in hammocks, their ow
hammocks, which were suspended above the tables in
the dim ing room. I had time to return to the
hotel, borrow a hammock for the trip and return
before the boat sailed. Never having slept in a
hammock, my first night's rest was not too geod,
but after the secret of sleeping on the bias so
that the body lies level was discovered, I came to
enjoy hammock sleeping very much.

The area between Sao Luiz and Vianna is naturally
low lying country and is largely flooded during the
rainy season of the year so that human habitations
and towns are all located on the few bits of land
Sue

which remain above flood level during the half of

the year when the water is high. The semi-isolation
of this period is due to the faet that there are areas
where the flooding is too deep for horse-back riders
but at the same time in certain areas is too shallow
for dug out canoes, This is the one area in my
experience where I have seen the regular use of steers
as riding animals. At the season of my visit, many
cattle were feeding in flooded areas on vegetation
which seemed to be Browing at about the level of

their backs. (I was to see similar feeding of buf-
faloes during the monsoon period of the delta area
of East Pakistan many years later.)

The flooding of the land during such a long period
precludes the year round utilization of garden pro-
duce and leafy vegetables and fruit were at a
minimum. Bananas were available. Beri-beri is
Said to be very common - as a matter of fact, one
of the local school teachers developed a case and
was on the boat with me going back to Sao Luiz in
search of a cure, away from Vianna.

On the last morning, while waiting for the boat poet

which was to take me to Sao Luiz, Dr. Attico Giabra Pumcdure’ Ruer
and I spent a couple of hours shooting aliigatp?s

from a dug out canoe. We sat on falding chairs in

the center of the canoe and were poled by men at

each end. The arms we used were ancient vintage

-44 Winchesters; we made no attempt to retrieve the

animals we shoft, Dr. S@abra assuring me that

the pargnhas would quickly finish up any wounded

and bleeding animal in these waters,