THE Family’s Best Friend; OR THE Whole ART of COOKERY Made PLAIN and EASY. Together with A Complete System of BREWERY; the Management of Malt Liquors; the Distillery of Simple and Compound Waters, Family Cordials, &c. And Instructions for the Cultivating of the Fruit, Flower, and Kitchen Garden. The Whole being Calculated for the Preservation of HEATH, and upon the Principles of FRUGALITY. CONTAINING The Choicest Receipts and Directions in all the various branches of Cookery, Pastry, Pickling, and Preserving; The Making of Cakes, Creams, Jellies, Soops, and all Sorts of Made Wines; The preparing of Broths, Gruels, and a Variety of pretty light Dishes, proper for the Sick, or for those who have weak Stomachs: The Whole exemplified in more than Six Hundred Receipts. The Result of Forty Years Practice and Experience, together with great Assistance in every Branch. Embellished with Cuts, for trussing Fowls, Game, &c. To which is now Added, Mons. Millien’s famous Discovery for preventing either Steel, Brass or any other Metal from-taking RUST or CANKER; an infallible Remedy to prevent Persons from taking the SMALL-POX, or any other Epidemical Disorder; a certain Cure for the Bite of a MAD-DOG; and a Variety of other Choice Nostrums of equal Value. BY ARABELLA FAIRFAX. The Sixth Edition, greatly enlarged. LONDON: Printed for C. HENDERSON, under the Royal Exchange. [Price Two Shillings and Six Pence bound.] PREFACE. As the Reader will find the following Book in every Respect adequate to what is promised in the Title, we shall avoid as much as possible the various Recommendations which might be given of it: But nevertheless, as it would be doing Injustice to the Author were we entirely silent, it is judged necessary to acquaint the publick, that before the Author at the Re- quest, and from the repeated Solicitations of her Friends, first put this Work to Press, she submitted the Whole to the Perusal of divers of the most skilful Persons that could be found of her Profession, who unanimously declared, that this was the only Works of the Kind where Frugality, Elegance, and good Housewifry had been happily combined, so as to render the whole universally useful. Since this the Book has gone thro' five Edi- tions, and a sixth being now called for, several considerable Additions and Improvements have been made from the Author's own Experience, A2 as PREFACE. as well as her Perusal and careful Inspection of what has lately been published in this Branch of useful knowledge: So that this present Edi- sion it rendered still more valuable than any of she former. To those who have any knowledge of Mrs. Fairfax, and have been Eye-Witnesses of her Behavious and Skill in the Business of her Calling, it if unnecessary to say any Thing: And the extraordinary Demand for her Book is a Proof of the Approbation is has met with. Therefore to prevent unfair Traders from reprinting, or in any wise defrauding she Author or she Publick; by publishing the Whole or any Part of this book, in an injudicious incorrect Manner, the Purchasers are desired to take Heed that the Preface be printed in this remarkable Character, pur- chased on purpose to prevent Impositions, and without which the Books cannot be depended on to be authentick and compleat: It being well known that His Majesty's Royal Letters Patent are not always sufficient alone to prevent Frauds. A COMPLEAT INDEX. A. PAGE ACID for Punch, when Oranges are scarce—112 Almond Cream, to make—108 Almond Custard, Pudding and Puffs—94, 1O5, 106 Anniseed Water, to distil—178 Apricock Tree, to cultivate—203 Apricocks, to preserve—117 Apple Cream, to make—109 —Dumplings—86 —Fritters—87 —Pie—105 —Pudding—87 Apple Tree, to cultivate—202 Aqua Celestis, to distil—171 Aqua Mirabilis—172 Artichoaks, how to raise—192 —Jerusalem, ditto—193 Artichoaks, how to dress—32 Asses Milk artificial to make—185 Asparagus, to raise—193 —to dress—30 —Soup, to make—32, 118 B. Bacon, to make the best Way—53 Balm, how to cultivate—193 Balm Water, to distil—179 Balm Wine, to make—129 Barberries, to pickle—126 —to keep for Tarts all the Year—118 Barley Water, to make—178 Batter Pudding—95 Beef to roast or boil—2, 21 Beef Steaks, to broil—13 Beef, a Leg of, to bake in the best Manner—25 Beef, a Brisket, or Rump, to stew—36 A3 vi INDEX. Beef, a Sirloin, to force—68, 69 —a Piece of, to ragoo—67 —Olives, to make—37 —to Pot different Ways—42,43 —Steak Pie—101 —to collar—46 Beef and Malt Liquors, to brew, work, fine, &c.—135, &c. Beer, to manage from the tunning to the drawing—159 Beet Root, to pickle—126 Birch Wine, to make—129 Birds small, or Larks, to roast—16 Bite of a Mad Dog, Dr. Mead's Receipt for—191 Blights on Trees, how they happen—213 —Method of preventing—215 Boiling of Meat, general Directions for—20 Bread Pudding, to make—84 Bread and Butter Pudding—95 Bread Soap for the Sick—185 Brewing Tubs, to keep sweet and clean—153 Broad Beans, to raise—194 Brocola, to raise—ibid —to dress—29 Broiling, general Directions for—13 Brown Gravy, to draw—27 Budding of Fruit Trees—207 Butter, to melt—27 Buttons, to pickle—123 C. Cabbage, to raise—294 Cabbage, to boil—28 Calves-feet, to fry—52 Calves foot Pudding—83, 92 —Jelly—109 Caraway Water, to distil—175 Carnations, to raise—217 Carp, to stew—76 Carrots, to raise—294 —to dress—30 Carrot Pudding—85 vii INDEX. Casks, a new Method of seasoning—150 —a new Method of keeping them sweet, or of sweetening musty or stinking ones—151, 152 Catchup, to make—123 Candle, for laying-in-Women—183 Cherry Tree, How to raise and cultivate—204 Cherry, to preserve, or dry—113, 114 Cherry Pie—101 Cherry Water, to distil-167 Cheshire Cheese, to Pot—43 Cheese Cakes— l04, 105 Chickens, how to truss for roasting—10 —to fricasy white and brown—50 —to stew, a pretty Way—74 —Pie, to make—101 —to Pull for the Sick—182 —to mince for sick or weak People—ibid —Broth, or Water, to make—183 Cinnamon Water, to distil—168 Citron Water—175 Clove Water, to distil—179 Cockles, to dress—6O Cod's Zoons, to dress—75 Cod's Head, to dress—ibid —sauce for—75, 76 Cold Crust,to make—98 Colliflowers, to raise—294 —to boil—29 —Pudding, to make—95 Comfrey Roots to boil—186 Compleat Family Gardiner—192 Compound Horse-radish Water,to distil—169 Compound Parsley Water—170 Compound Wormwood Water—169 Complea Callarman—146, &c. Cardial Water, to Distil—172, 173 Cowslip Wine, to make—130 Crabs, to roast—58 —to dress to eat cold—59 A4 viii INDEX. Cranberries, to preserve all the Year for Tarts—118 Crawfish, to stew—59 —Soop, to make—35 Cream Curds, to make—108 Crust for Custards—98 Cucumbers, to raise—295 —Soop, to make—34 —to pickle whole or sliced—120, 121 Currant Tree, to raise and cultivate—204 Currant Jelly, to make—113 —Wine—129 Custards, to make-107 D. Damsons, to preserve whole—114 —to keep for Tarts—118 Directions general in Cookery—1 Distillery—66 Dripping, to pot for frying—44 Dripping Crust, to make—98 Ducks, how to truss—10 —to make Sauce for—23 —to boil with Onions—51 —to stew, either wild or tame, or whole—51, 57 Duck Pie, to make—102 Dumplings, to make—91, 92 Dutch Beef, to make—45 E. Eels, to Pitchcock, or broil—81 Eggs, to make a pretty Dish of—65 —to fricasy white and brown—47 Elder Buds, to pickle—124 —Wine, to make—128 Endive, to raise—296 Essence of Ham, to make—70 F. Family Receipts, very valuable—182, &c. Fever Water, to distil—174 Fig-Tree, to raise and manage-205 Filbert or Nut-Tree, ditto—ibid ix INDEX. Fowls to truss for roasting—10 —to roast, or boil—9, 22 —Sauce for—10 —to stew—66 French Cutlets of Mutton—64 French Beans, to dress—30 —to ragoo—62 —to pickle—126 Fricasy of Chickens, white and brown—50 —of Eggs, white and brown—47, 48 —of Lamb, white and brown—49 —of Pig's Ears—48 —of Rabbits, white and brown—49, 50 —of Sweetbreads—48 —of Tripe—49 Fruit Fritters, to make—89 —to Preserve green—118, 119 Fruit Tree, how to cultivate—202, &c. G. Garden Stuff and Greens, to dress—28 Garden Cresses, to raise—296 General Directions for Cookery—1 General Observations—14 Gerkins, to pickle—121 Geese, &c. to roast—9 Gibblets, to dress—72, 73 Gibblet Pie, to make—100 Gold Cordial, to Distil—179 Goose, how to truss—9 Gooseberries, to bottle—112 Gooseberry Wine of ripe Gooseberries—128 —Pudding, or Fool—91, 94 Gooseberry Trees, to raise—206 Grasting after the newest Improvement—205 Gravy, to make—24, 63 —for Soops-26 —to draw Brown—27 Green Pease Soop—33 Green Pease to Keep' till Christmas, or the whole Year—80, 118 Green Plumbs large, to preserve—114 x INDEX. H. Hams, how to make, or boil—23, 54, 55, 56 —Essence of—70 —or Gammon to roast—75 Hang Beef—55 Hare, how to truss—8 —how to keep sweet, or to recover when otherwise—19 —to roast with a Pudding in the Belly—7 —to make a Pudding for the Belly—ibid —Soop, to make—34 —to Pot, or Pye to make—4l, 103, 104 Hasty Dish, Mr. Rich's Way—71 Hog's Puddings, to make—90 Hollyhocks, to raise—801 Honeysuckles, ditto—218 Horse-radish Water, to distil—169 Horse-radish, cultivate—296 House Lamb, to boil—22 Hungary Water, to distil—168 Hunting Pudding, to make—83 I. Jerusalem Artichokes, how to raise—193 Jessamines, to raise—218 Inoculating of Fruit Trees—207 Jonquills, to raise—119 Iron Moulds, a Method of taking them out of Linnen—19l Juniper Water, to distil—17O K. Kidney Beans, (called French Beans) how to raise—296 Knuckle of Veal with Rice, to boil—57 L. Lady Brooke's Treacle Water—171 Lamb, to roast—4 —to fricasy white and brown—49 —or Veal Pie—101 Larks, to roast–16 Leg of Beef, baked in the best manner—25 Leg of Lamb with the Loin or Chickens fried round it—56, 57 Lemon Water, to distil—177 Lettuce, how to raise—297 xi INDEX. Lilly of the Valley, to raise—219 Liquor for curing the Thruss—186 Lobsters, to roast, or butter—57, 58 M. Malt Liquors, to brew—135 Marmalade of Apricocks—117 Mango, to make—125 Marrow Pudding—84 Meat, how to keep hot without being spoiled, or the Gravy be- ing drawn out—19 Milk Punch, different Ways—111 Millet Pudding—95 Mine'd Pies, different Ways—98, 99 Mint, how to raise—297 Mint Water, to distil—168 Mons. Million's secret for preserving Iron from Rust—133 Mulberry Tree, to raise—210 Mushroom Powder, to make—126 Mushrooms, to pickle—122 —to Pot—78 —to stew—ibid Mussels, to dress different Way—60, 61 Mutton, to roast—3 —to roast Venison Fashion—18 —Shoulder of,Forced—63 —Fillet of, to shew—ibid —French Cutlets of or Kebbob'd—64, 71 —Breast of, to carbonade–69 —Chine roasted, with stewed Sellary—ibid —Leg of, a la Royale—70 Mutton Pie,to make—101 N. Neat's Tongue, to roast,or boil—20, 23 Nectarine Tree, to raise—210 New College Puddings, to make—91 Nutmeg Water, to distil—68 O. Observations on roasting Poultry—20 Oisters, to dress in Scollops, or to ragoo—59, 62 —Loaves, or Pye to make—78, 102 xii INDEX. Olives of Beef—37 Onions, how to grow—297 —to pickle-124 Onion Soop, to make—33 Orange Pudding, to make—87, 88 —Cream—109 —Chips—115 —Wine—130 —Brandy—ibid —Ale—131 —Shrub—ibid —Water, to distil—177 Oranges or Lemons, to preserve—116 Ortolans, to dress—72 Oxford Puddings, a choise Dish—91 Ox Cheek, to bake—26 P. Pale Ale, to brew—137 Palsey Water, to distil—176 Panado, to makes—184 Parsley, how to raise—298 —Water compound, to distil—170 Parsnips, to raise—298 Parsnips, to dresss—31 Partridge, to truss—16 Paste for Tarts—96 —for a Venison Pasty—97 —for a Standing Pie—ibid —light, for a Dish Pie—98 Peach-Tree, to raise and manage—210 Peaches, to preserve—115 Pear-Tree, to raise and cultivate—211 Pease, to raise for different Sensons—299 —Soop, to make—32, 33 Pectoral Drink, to make—184 Pepper Mint Water, to distil—181 Pheasant, to truss—16 Pig, to roast, or bake—5, 25 —different Sauces for—6 —a bind Quarter of, to roast Lamb fashion—7 xiii INDEX. Pigs Head, to roll like Brawn—45 —Ears, to fricasy—48 Pigeons, to truss for roasting, and to roast—11 —to broil whole—ibid —marrinaded—12 —to jugg, and stew—11, 12 —to pot, or pickle—40, 52 —Pye, to make—100 Pinks, to raise—219 Piony Water, Compound, to distil—178 Plaque Water, to distril—175 Plaque, how to prevent catching it—189 Plumb Gruel, or Porridge, to make—79, 110 Plumb Tree, to raise—312 Pollony Sausages—79 Pork, to Roast—5 —to pickle—53 Potatoes to Cultivate, the Lancashire Way—299 Potatoes pudding, the best Way—86 Potatoes, to Boil—31 Potted Turkey—40 —Smells or other Fish—41 —Venison—42 —Tongue or Beef—ibid —Beef like Venison—43 —Cheshire Cheese, preferable to Parmesan—ibid —Birds, to save that are bad—44 Prawns, to shew—59 Pudding of Breads and Butter, very nice—95 Pudding of all kinds, General Directions for—82 Puff-paste, to make—98 Punch the common Way—112 —Acids for, when Lemons are scarce-ibid Q. Quaking Pudding—82 R. Rabbits, to roast—17 —to truss for roasting—ibid —to roast Hare fashion—ibid xiv INDEX Rabbits, to boil and truss for boiling—22, 23 —Sauce for—ibid —to fricasy, white and brown—49, 50 —to dress like Moore Game—52 Radishes, how to raise—300 Ragoo of Oisters—62 —of French Beans—ibid Raisin Wine, to make—127 Ranunculas's, to raise—219 Rasberries, to grow—312 Rasberry Fool, to make—94 Ratasia—180 Red Cabbage, to pickle—125 Remedy to prevent Persons from catching the Small Pox, &c.—186 Rice Pudding, or Pancakes—85, 86, 89 —Cream, or Gruel—108, 111 Rosa Solis—178 Rosemary Water—171 Rose Trees, to raise—220 Ruffs and Riess—72 Rules to be observed in Pickling—127 S. Sack Posset, and Sack Whey, to make—107,108 Sage Drink—185 Sagoo Pudding, to make—83 —Gruel, to boil—111, 184 Salomon Gundy, to make—77 Sauces of various Kinds for a Pig—6 —for Venison, Turkey, Fowls, Cod's Head, Salmon, or Turbett—10, 18, 22, 38, 75, 76 Scollops of Oisters, to make—59 Scordium Water compound, to distil—179 Scotch Callops white—51 Shallots, to grow—300 Shell Paste, and short Paste for Tarts—96, 97 Shrimps, to stew—59 Small Birds, to roast—16 Small-Pox, a Remedy against catching them—186 Smelts, to pot—41 Snail Water, good in Consumpations or the Jaundice—180 xv INDEX. Snipes, to truss, and roast—15, 16 Snow Drops,to raise—205 Soops, Gravy to make for—26 Soops of various Kinds—32, 33, 34, 35 Spinach for Summer or Winter Use, to raise—300 Spinach and Sprouts, to dress—28, 32 Spirit of Wine with Camphire, to make—178 Steak Pudding, to make—93 Stephen's Water, from a Receipt the Dr. gave to the Arch- Bishop of Canterbury—173 Stock-July-Flowers, to raise—205 Strawberries, to cultivate—312 Strawberry Fool, to make—94 Stuffing for a Turkey's Breast, a Fillet or Shoulder of Veal —38, 39 Suet Pudding or Dumpling—92, 93 Sugar, to boil Candy height—117 Sun-Flowers, to raise—222 Surfeit Water, to distil—175 Sweetbreads, a Fricasy of—48 Sweet William, to raise—222 T. Tansey, to make—88, 89 Teal, to roast—20 Tench, to stew—76 Thyme, to raise—201 Tongue, to roast, to boil and pot—20, 23, 42 Treacle Water, Lady Brooke's Way—171 Tripe to fry, or roast—15, 74 Trussing, Direction for—8 —a Hare for roasting-ibid Tulips, to cultivate—222 Turbot, Sauce for—76 Turkies, to roast different Ways—9, 37 —to truss for roasting—38 Turkey boiled, or roasted,sauce for—22, 38 —Stuffing for the breast—38 —Pye, to make rich—39 —to dress.a-la-daube, or stew—39, 66 —a nice Way to pot—40 xvi INDEX. Turnips, to raise in the Field or Garden—201 —to dress—31 U. Udder, to roast—20 Veal, to roast—4 —to boil—21 Veal to roast, the Savoury Way—57 —a Breast, Fillet, or Knuckle, to stew—64, 65, 66, 67 Veal Pye—101 Veal or Chicken, to mince for sick, or weak People—182 Venison, to roast—17 —different Sauces for—18 —how to keep sweet, or to recover after it stinks—19 —to pot—43 Venison Pasty, paste for—97 Vermicelly Soop—35 Vinegar to make, an excellent Receipt for—80 Violets, to cultivate—224 Usquebaugh according to the Receipt made use of for King William III.—174 W. Walnut Tree to raise and manage—313 Walnuts, to pickle green, or black—120, 121 Walnut Water to distil—173 Ward's Drops, called Milk Punch—111 Water Gruel—184 Water for weak Stomachs, Small-Pox, Measles, Surfeits, &c. in great Esteem with Queen Elizabeth—170 Whipt Syllabubs—107 White Hog Puddings—90 Widgeon, to roast—2O Wild Ducks, to roast—20, 73 Woodcocks, to roast—15 —to truss—16 Woodcock Pie—lO5 Wormwood Water—169 Y. Yeast, to preserve a Stock of—146 Yorkshire Pudding, to make—93 The whole ART of COOKERY Made Plain and Easy. GOOD Housewifry and Frugality are such valuable Accomplishments, that it be- hoves Persons of very different Circum- stances in Life to be diligent in their Pursuit of them. The Person who is to be Mistress of a Family will do well to be early in her Applications; and the poor Girl whose Qualifica- tions as a Servant are to recommend her to the Means of obtaining a comfortable Livelihood, will abundantly witness the Use of the plain Instructions here laid down; whereby alone the may instruct herself suffi- ciently, and be enabled to fill the Place of Cook in the best Families. General Directions. IN all Kinds of Cookery Cleanliness is an Article of the greatest Consequence; this the young Be- ginner must have constantly in Remembrance. In roasting take particular Care that the Spit Is clean and sweet; for if it has been cleaned with Oil and Brick-dust, or any Kind of Grease, as is the Custom with some, it will give a disagreeable Taste to the Meat. A Spit should be cleaned with nothing else B than 2 The whole Art of COOKERY than a little Sand and Water; and after iris scowered from the Rust, let it be washed with fair Water, and afterwards wiped dry with a clean Cloth, This being so far prepared is ready for Use. The Fire mud also be properly prepared; and for this two Things are to be regarded, viz. that it be made up in Time, and that it be proportioned to the Service. If the Thing to be roasted be thin and tender, let the Fire be little and brisk; when a large Thing is to be roasted, let there be a found good Fire made ready. Let the Fire be all the while clear at the Bottom; give it a gentle Stirring before you lay the Thing down; and when it is half done remove the Spit and Dripping-pan back, and rouse it up thouroughly, that it may brisk up for finishing. To roast a Piece of BEEF. HAVING prepared your Fire in proportion to the Size of the Piece, be sure to paper the Top; throw upon it a Handful of Salt as soon as you lay it down; but never Salt it before, if you intend to roast it, for that draws out the Gravy; baste it well when it is laid down, and at any other Time as it roasts, when you see the Fire catch it, or that it appears dry. It is a general Rule, if the Meat has laid at a pro- per Distance, that when the Smoke draws towards the Fire it is near done; at which Time you must take off the Paper, baste it well, drudge a little Flour over it, and by brisking up the Fire a little quick, it will go up with a fine Froth. Garnish the Dish with a little Horse-radish nicely scraped and carry it to Table. If you would keep it a few Days before you dress it, dry it very well with a clean Cloth, then flour it all over, and hang it where the Air will come to it; but be sure always to mind that there is no damp upon it, if there is, you must wipe it dry with a Cloth. A Piece 3 made Plain and Easy. A Piece of Beef of about ten Pounds will take about an Hour and a half to roast it; one of twenty Pounds three Hours; but it will be proper to have some Re- gard to the Thickness of each Piece according to its Weight, as it will be necessary to make a little Al- lowance for the Thickness. And in frosty Weather, a Piece of Beef of twelve Pounds will take half an Hour extraordinary; and so in Proportion for other Pieces. It must also be observed that all Kinds of Meat, are in like Manner, to have more time allowed them in dressing in frosty Weather, whether they are roasted or boiled. To roast MUTTON. THE Loin must be papered in the same manner as the Beef; and so must the Saddle, which is two Loins: But other Joints of Mutton are to be laid down without being papered. Baste it when you lay it down, and again just before you drudge it with flour and take it up. A Breast of Mutton is always skinned, and roasted brown; and therefore must not be papered. As Beef requires a large found Fire, Mutton re- quires a brisk and fierce one: It is never well done unless it be quick and clear; and a great Error in roast- ing Mutton is the using too much Flour when it is basting. This clogs it up, and robs it of the finest of it s Favour. A little should be used; but Modera- tion is tbs Rule. A very good Way or roasting a Loin of Mutton is in the Manner of the Breast, skinning it, and roasting it brown without Paper. As to the Time; a Leg of six Pounds will take an Hour and a Quarter at a quick Fire; one of nine Pounds two Hours. A small Saddle will take an Hour and a Half or two Hours, a large one three Hours. B2 A Shoulder 4 The whole Art of Cookery A Shoulder, according to its Weight, takes some- what less time than a Leg. A Neck, when large, re- quires an Hour, when smaller less Time. To roast LAMB. LAMB being a tender Meat is easily spoiled in the Dressing. As the various Pieces are small and delicate, the Fire must be little and brisk; and it must be papered on the Outside and basted with Butter. A Leg will take three Quarters of an Hour; any other Joint singly will be done in Half an Hour. A Fore-Quarter if small will be done in an Hour; if large an Hour and a Half. And Care must be taken to keep the Fire very clear all the Time. To roast VEAL. PArticular Care must be taken to roast it brown, and for this Reason a proper Fire must be pre- pared; For a large Joint, a found large Fire; for a small one it must be brisk; The Joint must be laid at some Distance at first and put nearer after it is soaked thro’, in order to brown it up. When the Loin or Fillet are roasted, they must he papered to preserve the Fat from wasting. The Breast must have the Caul over it to preserve it, and the Sweetbread must be skewered on the Outside of it. When Veal is first laid down it is to be basted with Butter, and again when it is going to be taken ups; and then it must be drudged a little with Flour to froth it up. The Caul must be taken away when it is almost done, and that Part which was covered must be frothed and browned up as other Joints. A Joint of Veal that weighs six Pounds requires an Hour and a Half to do it properly; for it must soaked through, and not burnt. A thick Joint of twelve Pounds will require three Hours; and a piece of the same Weight that is thinner less Time in Pro portion. To 5 made Plain and Easy. To roast PORK. MORE is to be said about the roasting of Pork than any other Meat; for in the first Place, particular Care must be taken it be enough done; other Meats are unpleasant when not enough, but Pork is unwhol- some: The best Rule about Time is, that a Piece of eight Pounds requires two Hours. When a Loin is to be roasted the Skin must be first lightly scored cross-wise, to make Crackling more crisp, and better to separate in carving. When a Spearrib is roasted, let some Sage be shred small, and as it is basted with Butter and a little Flour the Sage is to be sprinkled over it. A Leg is more common boiled, but managed as it should be, its is excellent roasted: The Way is this, let it parboiled first; when taken out of the Pot let it be skinned, and then basted with Butter as it roast; and instead of shred Sage alone, let there be a Mix- ture made of Sage, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, and Bread- Crumbs, and let it be sprinkled with this from Time to Time as it roasts. The best Way when a Leg of Pork is roasted in this genteel Manner is, to put a little made Gravy into the Dish with it, and the Crumbs that fall off into it will make Sauce with that. The Spring is commonly Boiled, and the Griskin broiled, but they are both much better roasted. The Spring should be roasted like a Pig. When the Gris- kin is roasted a Mixture of Sage, pepper, salt, and Basted with Butter, and sprinkeld over with this as it is doing. To roast a PIG. PRepare a long Fire, and let it be good at each End; spit the Pig, and take a little Sage Shred small, a little Pepper and Salt, and a Piece of Butter as big as B3 a Wal- 6 The whole Art of COOKERY a Walnut; mix these together with your Fingers and put it into the Belly; then sew it up with strong Thread, and lay it down to the Fire: Hang an Iron in the Middle of the Grate, and flour the Pig well over; and all the while it is roasting, whenever you see the Flour drop off or appear wet, drudge it again. When the Eyes drop out it is a general Rule to suppose the Pig done, but that depends upon the Strength of the Fire at the Head only, and therefore the Cook must judge a little for herself; and when she finds it is near done, and that the Crackling is hard, brisk up the Fire, and take a Cloth with a quarter of a Pound of Butter in it, and rub the Pig all over to take off the Flour: As soon as the Crackling is quite crisp take it up, lay it in a Dish, and with a sharp Knife cut off the Head, and cut it in two down the Back before you draw the Spit out. Cut the Ears off and lay at each End, and cut the under Jaw in two and lay at each Side. You must be sure to save all the Gravy that drops from the Pig in roasting, by set- ting Basons in the Dripping-pan as soon as it begins to run; put the Gravy into a Sauce-pan, and thicken it with a little Butter and Flour, and pour it into the Dish with the Brains bruised fine, and the Sage mixed all together; and send it to Table as speedily as pos- sible. Some People dislike the Sage in the Pig, and rub in a little dry Sage; others scald the Sage, and shred it small to put in the Sauce. Different Sauces for a roast PIG. SOME chuse Pap Sauce, which is made by boiling a little stale white Bread in Water ’till you can beat it to a thickish Substance; boil in it a Blade of Mace, a few whole Pepper Corns, and Salt to your Taste: If it is in the Spring many chuse a small Onion 7 made Plain and Easy Onion or two in it; and some chuse Currants in it, and leave out the Onion and Pepper Corns. Other for Sauce take half a Pint of Beef Gravy and mix with the Gravy that comes out of the Pig, and two Spoonfuls of Catchup; mixing with it the Brains bruised fine, the Sage from the Pig, and a couple of Eggs boiled hard and chopped small; and this is by many called an excellent Sauce. To roast a Hind-Quarter of PIG, Lamb Fashion. AT the Time of the Year when House-Lamb is very dear, take the Hind-Quarter of a large Pig; take off the Skin, and roast it, and it will eat like Lamb, with Mint Sauce, or with a Sallad, or Seville Orange. Half an Hour will roast it. To roast a Hare with a Pudding in the Belly. WHEN you have washed the Hare, truss her as is described in the Print, and when you have spitted, her, put the Pudding into her Belly; and sew it up close; then lay it down to the Fire, baste her well all the Time with Millk or Cream; and when the Hare is almost done clean the Dripping-pan, drudge a little Flour over her, and baste her well with Butter to froth her up. When your Hare is enough, you may take the Gravy out of Dripping- pan, and thicken it up with a little Flour and Butter for the Sauce. But strong Gravy Sauce is much more in use, and is preferable: You must put Part of the Sauce in the Dish, and the rest in Bason: If you have not Sauce in Plenty, it Spoils the Whole; for both the Hare and Pudding re- quires it. To make the Pudding for the Hare’s Belly. TAKE a little beef Suet, the Liver of the Hare raw,a little Parsley and Sweet Marjoram; let them be shred small; add to this some Bread Crumbs B4 finely 8 The whole Art of COOKERY finely grated; mix it up into a Paste with two Eggs, and if it be too stiff, add a Spoonful or two of Cream; and season it to your Taste with Nutmeg, Pepper, Salt, a little shred Lemon-peel, and Thyme. Directions for Trussing. AS the unexperienced Cook cannot have too plain Instructions, at her first setting out, the follow- ing Figures will be of great Advantage, as by them she will more readily receive Information than by any other Means. A Hare truss’d for Roasting. DIRECTIONS. CASE the Hare, and when you come to the Ears, pass a Skewer between the Skin and the Head, and by Degrees raise it up till the Skin leaves both the Ears stripped; give the Head a Twist over the Back, and put a Skewer through; putting the Ears through each other to make them stand upright; then push the Joint of the Shoulder-blade up as high as may be, towards the Back, and pass a Skewer between this Joints, through the bottom Jaw of the Hare, which will keep it steady; then pass another Skewer at the lower Branch of the Leg through the Ribs, passing close by the Blade-bone, to keep that up tight, and then Skewer the Haunches. To truss a Hare short, see the Manner of trussing a Rabbit for boiling. To 9 made Plain and Easy. To roast GEESE, TURKIES, or FOWLS. FOWLS of all Kinds must be singed with white Paper before they are roasted, and basted with butter as soon as they are laid down to the Fire; drudge them over with a little fine Flour, and keep them turning at a proper Distance to prevent their blistering, and when they look plump, and the Smoak draws towards the Fire, baste them again, and drudge a little more Flour over them: At this Time also brisken up the fire to froth them up. N. B. In roasting a Goose, a little Seasoning of pepper, Salt, and Sage Shred small, is to be put into the Belly before it is laid down; and a little Onion shred small: Or some put in an Onion whole; but every one is not fond of Onion, this Particular should be suited to the Taste. In a Tame Duck it is also usual to put the same Seasoning as is here directed for a Goose; but the Green Goose and the Duckling, are dressed without this Seasoning for the most Part; therefore the Cook should never use them unless she is ordered. It may be observed that a Goose which is full grown eats much better for being hanged up a few Days; but young Fowls the same Day they are killed. To truss a Goose, THIS is extremely plain; the Legs and Pinions are taken off close to the thick Joints, and two Skewers performs all the Business. B5 Sauce 10 The whole Art of COOKERY Sauce for a Goose. THERE is generally so much Fat in the Dish, that the Gravy which must be good, is put in a Bason; and it is common also to serve up Apple Sauce in ano- ther Bason, with which it is usual to eat Mustard. Tame Ducks truss’d for roasting. THAT the turning of the Legs Should appear more Plain, the two Figures above shew both Sides of the Duck, with the Skewers necessary. Sauce for Ducks. SOME good Gravy, with a little red Wine in it, put into the Dish; and for those who chuse it Onion Sauce in a Bason. To truss a Chicken or Fowl for roasting. Sauce for Fowls. FOR Fowls as for other Things various Sauces are used; some chuse Gravy in the Dish; others Egg Sauce in a Bason; some Parsley and Butter; and others shred the Livers very small and mix them in melted Butter, shreding in a little pulp of a Lemon, or squeez- ing in a little of the Juice. To 11 made Plain and Easy. To roast Pigeons. THE Pigeons being picked clean from the Stubs, before you put them on the Spit, roll up a Piece of Butter as big as a Wallnut, with as much Pepper and Salt as will season it, and put into each; tie their Necks and Vents close to the Spit, to keep in the Gravy; baste them with Butter, and when they are enough lay them in the Dish. But there is another Way of roasting them which is quite as well; and this is by fastening a String to the Chimney Piece, and after tying up the Necks hanging them up by the Feet, and thus roasting them; for by this Method the Gravy is better preserved. For Sauce nothing is better than a little Parsley and Butter. To truss a Pigeon. THE Liver of the Pigeon is to be left in, as it has no Gall, and the Legs are not cut off, but are turned up over the Body, as in the above Print. To broil Pigeons whole. TAKE your Pigeons, season them as for roasting, and stuff them with a little green Parsley, picked and washed clean; tie them up at both Ends to keep in the Gravy; set a Gridiron pretty high over a clear Fire, that they may not burn, and serve them up with a little melted Butter in a Cup. To Jugg Pigeons. Take six or eight Pigeons and truss them, season them with Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt, To make the Stuffing. Take the Livers and shred them with Beef- 12 The whole Art of COOKERY Beef-Suet, Bread-Crumbs, Parsley, Sweet-Marjoram, and two Eggs; mix all together, then stuff your Pigeons, sewing them up at both Ends, and put them into your Jugg with the Breast downwards, with half a Pound of Butter; stop up the Jugg close with a Cloth that no Steam can get out, then set them in a Pot of boiling Water; they will take about two Hours Stewing. Mind you keep your Pot full of Water, and boiling all the Time. When they are enough clear from them the Gravy, and take the Fat clean off; put to the Gravy a Spoonful of Cream, a little Lemon-peel, an Anchovie shred, a few Mushrooms, and a little white Wine; thicken it with a little Flour and Butter, then dish up your Pigeons, and pour over them the Sauce. This is proper for a Side-dish. Marrinaded Pigeons. TAKE six Pigeons, and truss them as you would do for baking, break the Breast-bones, season and stuff them as you did for Jugging; put them into a little deep Dish, lay over them half a Pound of Butter, and put into your Dish a little Water. Take half a Pound of Rice, boil it soft as you would do for Eating, and pour it upon the back of a Sieve; let it stand while it is cold, then take a Spoon and flat it like Paste on your Hand, and lay on the Breast of every Pigeon a Cake; lay round your Dish some Puff-paste not over thin, and send them to the Oven: About half an Hour will bake them. This is proper at Noon for a side Dish. To stew Pigeons. TAKE your Pigeons, season and stuff them, flat the Breast-bone, and truss them up as you would do for Baking, drudge them over with a little Flour, and fry them in Butter, turning them round till all Sides 13 made Plain and Easy. Sides be brown; then put them into a Stew-pan with as much brown Gravy as will cover them, and let them stew whilst your Pigeons be done; then take part of the Gravy, an Anchovy shred, a little Catchup, a small Onion or a Shalot, and a little Juice of Le- mon for Sauce; pour it over your Pigeons, and lay round them forc’d-meat Balls and crisp Bacon. Gar- nish your Dish with crisp Parsley and Lemon. To broil Beef-Steaks. You must take Care to have a brisk and clear Fire that they may not he smoked; for this Purpose Charcoal is most proper; set your Gridiron at a proper Distance; let it stand ’till is hot and take Care that it be clean. Take a few Coals into a Chafing-dish, and set upon them the Dish which you intend for the Steaks; then take fine Rump Steaks about Half an Inch thick; put a little Pepper and Salt on them, lay them on the Gridiron, and (if you like it) take a Sha- lot or two, or an Onion, cut it fine; and it into your dish. Don't turn your Steaks ’till one Side is done, then when you turn the other Side there will soon be a fine Gravy lie on the Top of the Steak, which you must be careful not to lose. When the Steaks are enough, take them carefully off into your Dish, without losing the Gravy; then have ready a hot Dish or Cover and carry them hot to Table, with the Cover on. General Directions for Broiling. FOR all Steaks it is proper to have a hot Dish; and for this Purpose it is necessary to keep it over a Chafing-Dish of Coals; and Steaks never eat well if they are not sent up directly and eat hot. Mutton and Pork Steaks must be kept turning very quick; Veal When Broild need not be turned so often, but Care must be taken that it be a fine light Brown and not burnt. 14 The whole Art of COOKERY burnt. Chickens, Pigeons, or Fowls must also be carefully kept from burning; and let it be a constant Rule never to baste any thing upon the Gridiron; for this creates a stinking Smoke, which make them eat very disagreeably. Chops should be cut moderately thick, and if Mut- ton the Skin taken off; when you lay Chops of any kind upon the Gridiron, sprinkle a little Salt over them, and so again when you turn them, and if Pep- per is not disagreeable dust on a little; but this de- pends on the Taste. General Observations. NEVER Garnish your Dish whereon you serve up Steaks with any Thing; for if you put on Horse- radish or Pickles before it is set over the hot Coals, the Garnish is dry’d and spoilt; and if you wait the putting it on afterwards, the Steaks as well as Dish get cold, and they are spoilt by it. Therefore if Pickles or Horse-radish are sent to Table with them, put those Things in a Saucer alone. To fry Steaks. LET the Steaks be cut thinner than for broiling, and when the Dish is set over a Chafing-Dish of Coals, shred an Onion into it with a very little Wa- ter; put a Piece of Butter into the Pan, and when it is melted put in the Steaks peppered and salted; when done a little, turn them, and repeat this as Occasion requires. Finally, add a very little Flour, and then put them into the Dish. Some fry the Onion with the Steak, but this makes it stronger. Many other Things are fried, but all in the same Manner, except Tripe, and that we shall give se- parately as follows. To 15 made Plain and Easy. To fry Tripe. FIRST make a Mixture of grated Bread and Yolks of Eggs tolerably thin, then cut the Tripe into Pieces of the Bigness of one’s Hand, set a clean Fry- ing-pan over the Fire, when it is ready put the Pieces of Tripe into the Egg and Bread, and cover them over with it; then put them into the Pan, and turn them as there is Occasion; they will at length be of very fine brown; take them carefully out of the Frying-pan, lay them upon a Dish warmed for that Purpose, and drain them well; then put them upon another clean warm Dish, and send them to Table. Send up Butter and Mustard mixed in a Cup for them. To roast Woodcocks or Snipes. SNIPES and Woodcocks must be put on a small Bird Spit: Before they are laid down there must be a Slice of Bread ready toasted brown, and laid in the Dripping-pan to receive the Roaps as they drop. When you lay them down baste them with Butter, and drudge on a little Flour; and again baste and Flour them to froth them up when they are done. About twenty Minutes, or something more, will roast them; and an earthen Dish is best to set under them whilst they are roasting; into which if you put a little Water, you may pour this with the Gravy that drops from them into a Sauce-pan, and thicken up with Flour and Butter, for Sauce. Serve them up upon the Toast, and garnish the Dish with Lemon. Woodcocks and Snipes are not to be drawn; or if they are the Roap is not taken away, but twisted round the Carcass, and in roasting melts away; and it does so in like Manner if left in: Therefore it is evident that this Trouble is quite unnecessary. To 16 The whole Art of COOKERY To truss a Woodcock or Snipe. THE Woodcock and Snipe are trussed alike; the Pinions are turned back, the Bill is put through the Pinion, and the Legs are turned up and twisted back at the Joints, in the Manner shewn above. To roast a Partridge or Pheasant. A Partridge or Pheasant may be roasted in the same Manner; only adding for the Sauce, Bread Crumbs grated fine, upon which the Birds should drop in roasting, and have a little melted Butter served up in a Cup; or some choose Gravy Sauce, made rich with red Wine; and others admire Pap Sauce. A Pheasant or Partridge truss’d. THE Pheasant and Partridge are trussed in the same Manner, and are so plainly expressed in the above Figure, that it would be needless to describe the Method. To roast Larks, or Small Birds. THESE are most conveniently put upon a Skewer, or a couple of Skewers, and tied to the Spit; for they are not large enough to admit of being spitted in any other Manner, Serve them up with Bread Crumbs browned under them whilst they are roasting, and melted Butter in a Cup. To 17 made Plain and Easy. To roast Rabbits. RABBITS if small and young, by a little brisk clear Fire will be done in twenty Minutes; if large in half an Hour. Baste them with Butter, and drudge on a little Flour when you lay them down, and again just as they are ready. Boil the Livers with a little Parsley, and chop them fine; garnish the Dish with one half of it, and mix the other in melted But- ter and put it into the Dish for Sauce. Let Rabbits always be roasted of a light brown. A Rabbit truss’d for roasting. To roast Rabbits Hare fashion. MAKE a Pudding for the Belly the same as for a Hare, pag. 7, and they will eat very well; but they must be served up with Gravy Sauce. N. B. A Rabbit roasted in this Manner should be truss’d the same as for boiling, (see Pag. 23.) because by being truss’d short, the Legs preserve the Sides from scorching. To roast Venison. HAUNCHES of Venison are so different in their Size, that it is not easy to fix the Time for their Roasting; but as a moderate one with a good Fire will take about two Hours, we must leave it to the Cook’s Judgment accordingly. It was usual formerly to roast Venison in Paste, but Experience convinces us that there is a Method which not liable to make it eat so sodden, and whereby it will be higher flavoured, as well as less expensive: Therefore when you have spitted the Haunch, Neck or 18 The whole Art of COOKERY or Shoulder, take four Sheets of white Paper, butter them well, and wrap them about the Venison; tie on the Paper with a Piece of small Packthread, and baste it well with Butter all the Time it is roasting. When it is done, take off the Paper, and drudge it with Flour just before you take it up, in order to froth it; but you must be very quick lest the Fat should melt. A Neck, or Shoulder will roast in about an Hour and a Half. Serve up very good Gravy Sauce in one Bason, and sweet Sauce in another; and let there be nothing in the Dish but the Gravy which comes from the Venison. To roast Mutton Venison fashion. HAVE the Leg of a Hind Quarter of very fat and large Mutton cut in the Shape of a Haunch of Venison; lay it in an earthen Pan with the back side downwards, and pour over it a Bottle of red Wine; in this Manner let it lie a Day and a Night, or longer; paper it in the Manner directed for Venison, and all the while it is roasting, baste it with the Wine in which it has been soaked; and keep a good brisk Fire. Serve it up with Venison Sauce. Different Kinds of Sauce for Venison. YOUR true Venison eaters generally prefer good strong Gravy alone to any other Sauce; but it is usual to have sweet Sauce on the Table, and this is made different Ways. Currant Jelly dissolved by warming, is the most usual, as sweet Sauce; but for want of this, Half a Pint of red Wine, made hot over a gentle Fire, with a Quarter of a Pound of Sugar in it, makes an excellent sweet Sauce; and I have known good Vinegar simmered up with Sugar in it ’till it become a thin Syrup, used for a Sweet Sauce. To 19 made Plain and Easy. To keep Meat hot after it is dressed without being spoiled, or the Gravy drawn out. THE usual Method is to clap the Dish over a Chafing-dish of Coals, which is a Remedy much worse than be Disease, for the Meat had better con- tinue upon the Spit, and would be less damaged tho’ over-done, than by this Method; for the Gravy thereby is drawn from the Meat; and dries up in the Dish, and it is quite spoiled. Set the Dish with the Meat in it over a Pot of boiling Water, and put a deep Cover over the Meat in the Dish, so as not to touch it, covering it up also with a Cloth, and by this Management it may be kept hot a long while if you wait for Company, and yet go up in as good Order as when first taken off the Spit. The pouring boiling Water into a Pan, and setting the Dish over that just answers the same Purpose. To keep Hares or Venison sweet, or to recover them per- fectly when they stink. IF your Venison is sweet when you receive it, no- thing is so good as wiping it with a dry Cloth, and hanging it up in a Gate Way where there is a great draught of Air, or in any other Place sheltered from the Sun, and where the Wind can come to it freely; and if is intended to be kept long, it will be very serviceable when you have wiped it well with a dry Cloth to rub it over with beaten Ginger before you hang it in the Air. But if it is musty, or stinks, wash it clean in some fair Water lukewarm, after this wash it in Milk and Water, just lukewarm, dry it well with clean dry Cloths, thenrubit well with beaten Ginger, and hang it up in the Air. This will recover it, and all other Means only take away the fine Flavour and spoil the Venison. A Hare is to be managed just in the same Manner. To 20 The whole Art of COOKERY To roast Wild Ducks, Teal, or Wigeon. A Wild Duck is roasted without Seasoning in the Belly, and so is Teal; you must have a brisk Fire, and they are done presently; according to the common Taste for Wild Ducks, ten Minutes will do them; however a Quarter of an Hour roast them thoroughly. Teal requires less Time in Proportion to their Size, Observations on roasting Poultry. IF your Fire is not brisk and clear when you lay them down, they will neither look so beautiful to the Eye, nor eat so sweet. And with a good Fire a large Fowl will road in three Quarters of an Hour; a middling one in Half an Hour; and a Chicken in twenty Minutes, or less if small. Woodcocks will take twenty Minutes to do them; and Pigeons a Quarter of an Hour. To roast a Tongue, or an Udder. THESE either of them make fine Dishes, when properly dressed; but otherwise they quite lose their Elegance. First Parboil them ’till they are ten- der, then stick in about Ten or a Dozen Cloves, and lay them down to the Fire, bade them with Butter; and serve up both Gravy and Sweet Sauce. General Directions for Boiling. Cleanliness in this is as requisite as in any other Branch of Cookery; but in general less Nicety attends Boiling than Roasting, and much less Atten- dance; The chief Mystery is to know what Time is required for boiling any Joint or Piece of Meat; and in order not to be deceived, due Care must be taken that it really boils all the Time; for by neglecting this Particular, the Cook will often find that her Joint will not be sufficiently done, though it has been a pro- per Time upon the Fire. All 21 made Plain and Easy. All fresh Meat should be put into the Water boiling hot, and Salt Meat when the Water is cold; unless you apprehend it is not corn’d quite enough, and in that Case putting it into the Water when hot strikes in the Salt. Chickens, Lamb, and Veal, are much whiter for being boiled with a little Milk in your Wa- ter.–The Time for dressing different Joints depends on the Size of them: A Leg of Mutton of about seven or eight Pounds will take two Hours boiling, a young Fowl about Half an Hour, a middle-sized Leg Lamb about an Hour, a thick Piece of Beef of twelve or fourteen Pounds will take about two Hours and a Half after the Water boils if you put in the Beef when Water is cold; and so in proportion to the Thickness and Weight of the Piece: But it may not be improper to observe, that less Time is neces- sary for Meat that has hung some Days than for at which is fresh killed, whether roasted or boiled. Of boiling Beef. THE general Rules being laid down as above, we shall be very brief and concise. The Beef being in the Pot, let Cook take Care to take off all Scum and Foulness as it rises to the Top of the Water; otherwise she will never have any Thing look well: For it is neglected it boils down again into the Water, sticks to the Meat, make it look black and coarse, and gives it a slovenly Appearance. The most general allowance of Time is a Quarter of an to every Pound. To boil Veal. LET your Veal be put into the Water cold; have a good Fire that will not want disturbing often, and sufficient to keep it boiling; skim the Pot well, and two Hours will boil a Joint of eight Pounds, and so in Proportion for larger or lesser Pieces. To 22 The whole Art of COOKERY To boil House-Lamb, Fowls, or Rabbits. THE Necessity of bringing Meat clean to Table, put Cooks first upon quite wrong Methods; for to keep it clean they wrapped it in Cloths, which only smothers and robs it of its true Flavour. But to answer all the Purposes wanted, it is only necessary to keep a good Fire, let there be Plenty of room and Water in the Pot, and let it be kept boiling and clean skimmed as often as any thing rises; and Veal, Lamb, or Mutton will come out as white as a Curd, and will have its true Flavour, which is always lost by be- ing muffled up. Lamb is frequently brought to Table under-done, occasioned by the Cook’s imagining that it will not take so much Time as Beef or Mutton; there lies her Mistake; for all Butchers Meat requires nearly the same Time according to its Weight, and a Joint of Mutton will be ready as soon or rather sooner, than one of Lamb of the same Size. House-Lamb, or Fowls should never have any thing boiled along with them. A large Fowl, or a little Turkey will boil in an Hour; a small Fowl in less than Half an Hour; a small Chicken in fifteen Mi- nutes; a large one in twenty; a good well-grown Goose or Turkey in an Hour and a Half; and a full- sized Duck in an Hour. A young Rabbit will boil in Half an Hour, an old one will require an Hour. Sauce for a boiled Turkey. TAKE a little Mutton Gravy, or if you have not that, a little Water, a Blade of Mace, a little Lemon-peel, an Anchovy, with a little Thyme, and boil them well together; strain them through a Sieve, and then mix this with a little melted Butter. Fry a few Sausages or Force-meat Balls, and lay round the Dish; and garnish with Lemon. The 23 made Plain and Easy. The Manner of trussing a Rabbit for boiling. CUT the two Haunches of the Rabbit close to the Back-bone, two Inches, and run up the Haunches, by the Side of the Rabbit, skewer the Haunches through the Middle Part of the Back; then put a skewer through the utmost Joints of the Legs, the shoulder-blades and Neck; trussing the Shoulders high, and bending the Neck backwards that the Skewer may pass through the Whole. Sauce for boiled Rabbits or Ducks, THESE are generally smothered, as it is called with Onions; which is thus prepared—To make Onion sauce. Take a sufficient Quantity of Onions, peel and then boil them in a great deal of Water; shift your Water, then let them boil about two Hours, take them up and throw them into a Cullender to drain, then with a Knife chop them on a Board; put them into a Sauce-pan, just shake a little Flour over them, put in a little Milk or Cream, with a good Piece of Butter; set them over the Fire, and when the Butter is all melted they are enough, If you would have Onion Sauce in Half an Hour, take your Onions, peel them, and cut them in thin slices, put them into Milk and Water, and when the Water boils they will be done in twenty Minutes, then throw them into a Cullender to drain, and chop them and put them into a Sauce-pan; shake in a lit- tle 24 The whole Art of COOKERY tle Flour, with a little Cream, if you have it, and a good Piece of Butter; stir all together over the Fire till the Butter is melted, and they will be very fine; if not, beat them through a Hair Sieve with the Back of a Spoon. This Sauce is very good with roast Mut- ton, and it is the best Way of boiling Onions. To boil a Neat’s Tongue. IF your Neat’s Tongue is taken out of the Pickle and has not been dried, put it into the Water boiling, and two Hours will dress it; but if it has been hanged up, and is dry, soak it over Night, and in the Morning put it upon the Fire in cold Water, and let it be upon so slow a Fire as to be three Hours before it boils; After this let it boil very gently and in about two Hours more it will be done properly. To boil a Ham. PLENTY of Room and Water is very necessary in boiling a Ham; therefore it is best done in a Cop- per: Put the Ham in when the Water is cold, and let the Fire be so gentle to keep it only scimmering for at least five or six Hours; this will make it tender, and without this Management Hams always eat hard; after this let it boil very gently for two Hours if the Ham is large. It is also very serviceable to let them soak all Night in clear Water, under a Cock where the Water keeps running. To make Gravy. IF you live in the Country where you can’t have Gravy Meat, when your Meat comes from the Butcher take a Piece of Beef, a Piece of Veal, and a Piece of Mutton; cut them into as small Bits as you can, and take a large deep Sauce-pan with a Cover; lay your Beef at Bottom, then your Mutton, then a very little Piece of Bacon, a Slice or two of Carrot, some Mace, Cloves, Whole Pepper Black and 25 made Plain and Easy. and White, a large Onion cut in Slices, a Bundle of Sweet Herbs, and then lay in your Veal. Cover it close over a very slow Fire for six or seven Minutes, shaking the Sauce-pan now and then; then shake some Flour in, and have ready some boiling Water, pour it in till you cover the Meat and something more. Cover it close, and let it stew till it is quite rich and good: Season it to your Taste with Salt, and then strain it off. This will do for most Things. To bake a PIG. If you should be in a Place where you cannot roast a Pig, lay it in a Dish, flour it all over very well, and rub it over with Butter; Butter the Dish you lay it in, and put it into an Oven. When it is enough, draw it out of the Oven’s Mouth, and rub it over a buttery Cloth; then put it into the Oven again till it is dry, take it out and lay it in a Dish; cut it up, take a little Veal Gravy, and take off the Fat in Dish it was baked in, and there will be some good Gravy at the Bottom; put that to it with a little Piece of Butter rolled in Flour; boil it up, and put it into the Dish with the Brains and Sage in the Belly. To Bake a Leg of Beef in the best manner. TAKE a fine Leg of Beef, cut and hack it to Pieces; put it into a large earthen Pan, with a Bunch of sweet Herbs, a Couple of Onions stuck with Cloves, a Blade or two of Mace, a Piece of Carrot, a Spoonful of Whole Black and White Pepper, and a Quart of stale Beer; cover it with Water; Butter a Sheet of brown Paper, and tie it close over the Pan, and send it to the Oven over Night to be well baked: When it comes home strain it through a coarse Sieve; pick out the Fat and the Sinews, and put them into a Sauce-pan with a few Spoonfuls of red Wine, and C some 26 The whole Art of COOKERY some strong Gravy, with a Piece of Butter rolled in Flour; and when the Sauce is hot and thick, dish up your Leg of Beef and send it to the Table. Or if you rather chuse it, about an Hour before you fetch your Leg of Beef from the Oven, put in a Quantity of Sellary cut small, and a few Slices of Turnips, and serve it up in a Soup Dish without any other Addition, except a little toasted Bread cut in Dice. To bake an Ox Cheek. TAKE a fine fat Cheek, and order as you do the Leg of Beef; put to it a Quantity of fair Water and the same Seasoning as to the Leg of Beef, and Par- boil it well over Night upon the Fire; skimming it well as often as any thing rises, which will be very plentiful; and this cleans away all that Filth which would otherwise discolour it, and make it appear dis- agreeable: Next Morning put it into an earthen Pan as you do the Leg of Beef, and let it be baked in the same Liquor it was boiled in. This makes a great Addition to the Ox’s Cheek. If the Soup is too strong, put to it boiling Water; but be sure not to mix it with cold Water, for that will entirely spoil it. To make Gravy for Soups. TAKE a Leg of Beef, order it just in the same Manner as you did for baking it, and after it has been in the Oven ’till it is quite baked down, strain it thro’ a coarse Cloth, and lay the Meat in a Dish for Use. This Soup is a very useful Thing in a House, and will serve for Gravy, thickened up with a Piece of Butter, red Wine, Catchup, or whatever you have a mind to put in, and is always ready for Soups of most Sorts. If you have Pease ready boiled, your Soup will soon be made: Or take some of the Broth and some Ver- micelli, boil it together, fry a French Roll and put in the 27 A made Plain and Easy. the Middle, and you have a good Soup. You may add a few Truffles and Morels, or Sellery Stew’d ten- der, and then you are always ready. To melt Butter. AS we undertake to instruct the young Beginner; she must not be offended at meeting with every Thing that is necessary for her Accomplishment; for which Reason we cannot omit this Article, it being in frequent Use, and often spoilt for want of proper Management. Nothing melts Butter so well as a silver Sauce-pan; but as this is not to be expected in every Family, Care must be had to the Copper one being well Tinned; this being observed, take a Spoonful of cold Water and dust in a little Flour, cut your Butter to Pieces, set it upon a brisk Fire, and shake it one Way or it be liable to Oil: When it Is all melted let it boil up, but take Care that it boils not over for fear of setting your Chimney on fire, as well as wasting the Butter. Another Way of melting Butter is to work as much flour into it as will thicken it sufficiently, and put- ting it into the Sauce-pan with a Spoonful of fair Wa- ter; then letting it melt and boil up as before, In either Case it will be smooth and fine; and if by Accident, it should oil, the way to remedy this Complaint is to put in a little cold Water, and pour it briskly backwards and forwards between the Sauce- and a Bason, ’till it comes to itself again. To draw brown Gravy. LAY a small thin Piece of Bacon at the Bottom of a Stew-pan, cut a Pound of Beef, Veal, or Mutton, very thin, and lay it upon the Bacon; cut a Carrot to Pieces and sprinkle over it; set it on the Fire, and let it stew two or three Minutes alone, covered: Then Pour in a Quart of boiling Water, and add an Onion C2 chopped 28 The whole Art of COOKERY chopped to Pieces, a Bundle of sweet Herbs, Half a Dozen Pepper Corns, and a Couple of Blades of Mace: Last of all, add a Crust of Bread well toasted, and cover it up. Let it stew over a slow Fire, and when it is enough, throw in a Piece of Butter rolled in Flour; then season it with Salt, and strain it off. This kind of Gravy is what is mostly used for made Dishes; but those who dislike the Bacon or the Carrot, may leave out either or both of them. To dress Greens, and other Kinds of Garden Stuff. MANY People spoil both the Taste and Appear- ance of Greens by over boiling them; for they should have a little Crispness left, or they lose both their Flavour and Beauty. Take particular Care that they be nicely picked and washed, not only to clean them from Dirt, but also to prevent Snails or Caterpillars from being boiled with them In the Summer Season, as is often the Case where sluttish- ness and Negligence take Place of Cleanliness and Good Housewifry. A Wooden Bowl is very impro- per to wash them in, as the Sand hangs upon it: Therefore use an earthen Pan. Boil them in Copper or Brass Pots and by themselves; for if they are boiled with Meat it discolours them. To boll Cabbage or Sprouts. ALWAYS throw Salt in your Water before you put in the Greens; and it is a general Rule that when the Stalks are tender, or fall to the Bottom, they are sufficiently boiled: As soon as you find this take them off directly, or the Colour will be gone. If it is Cabbage cut it in Quarters, and wash them very clean in several Waters, opening them to see there are neither Snails, small Worms, nor Cate- pillars; and in this Manner open the Sprouts to pick and 29 made Plain and Easy. and wash them, but let them be boiled whole. Lay them upon a small Dish, or on a Plate, according to Quantity, and send the melted Butter for them to Table in a Cup or Sauce Boat. Let nothing be boiled along with your Greens, for the Fat of Meat makes them look greasy. As any Skum rises take it off, or it will sink into the Greens. To dress Cauliflowers. CUT off all the green Part of them, and then cut the Flowers into four, and lay them in Water for an Hour: Have some Milk and Water boiling, put in the Cauliflowers, and be sure to skim the Sauce-pan well. When the Stalks are tender, take them care- fully up, and put them into a Cullender to drain: Lay them in a Dish, and send them up with melted Butter poured over them, and some in a Cup. Ten Minutes will boil them. Or take half the Cauli- flower after it is boiled, put it into a Stew-pan with a little Salt and Pepper, a Dust of Flour, about a Quar- ter of a Pound of Butter, and shake it round till it is all finely melted; then take the other Half of the Cauliflower and cut it as for Pickling, lay it into the stew-pan, turn it, and shake the Pan round. Lay stewed in the Middle of your Dish, and the boiled around it. Pour the Butter you did it in over it, and send it to Table. To dress Brocola. BE careful to preserve the Heads as you strip the Stalks, and peel off the outside Skin, both from the Stalks and Branches: Throw them into clean cold water. Set on a Stew-pan of Water with some Salt in it; Put in your Brocola when it boils, and boil it ’till the Stalks are tender; then lay them in a Cullender to drain, and send it to Table with Butter in a Cup. C3 To 30 The whole Art of COOKERY To dress French Beans. STRING them well, then cut them in two, and afterwards a-cross: But if you would do them nice, cut the Bean into four, and then a-cross, which is eight Pieces. Lay them into Water and Salt, and when your Stew-pan, or large Sauce-pan boils, put in some Salt and the Beans: When they are tender they are enough; they will be soon done. Take Care they don’t lose their fine Green. Lay them in a Plate, and have Butter in a Cup. If the Beans are very young they have a finer Fla- vour by being boiled whole; but this Method is not proper if they are of full Growth. To dress Asparagus. THIS is a Thing that requires a good deal of Care to do it in a neat and Housewifely manner; there- fore I shall be the more Particular. Scrape all the Stalks very carefully till they look white, then cut all the Stalks even alike, throw them into Water, and have ready a Stew-pan boiling. Put in some Salt, and tie the Asparagus in little Bundles. Let the Water keep boiling, and when they are a little tender take them up. If you boil them too much you lose both Colour and Taste. Cut the Round of a small Loaf about Half an Inch thick, toast it Brown on both Sides, dip it in the Asparagus Liquor, and lay it in your Dish: Pour a little Butter over the Toast, then lay your Asparagus on the Toast all round the Dish, with the Tops outward. Some pour Butter over them, and others send all the Butter in a Bason, because the pouring it over them greases the Fingers in eating them. To dress Carrots YOUNG Spring Carrots will boil in half an Hour; large ones will take a full Hour; and the old Sandwich 31 made Plain and Easy. Sandwich Carrot two Hours. Let them be well washed and scraped before you boil them, and when they are taken up, wipe them with a clean dry Cloth; then slice them, if large, into a Plate, and pour melted Butter over them. To dress Parsnips. PARSNIPS must be washed and scraped clean in like manner with the Carrots, and must be boiled in plenty of Water ’till they are soft, which may be perceived by running a Fork into them. After they are boiled take away all the sticky Parts, and put the rest into a Sauce-pan with some Milk; stir them over Fire ’till they are thick; but take particular Care that they do not burn; then add a Lump of Butter a little Salt, and send them hot to Table. To dress Turnips. TURNIPS eat best boiled in the Pot with your Meat; when enough put them into a Pan, and mash them with Butter and a little Salt, and send them to Table. But you may do them thus; Pare your Tur- nips, and cut them into Dice, as big as the Top of one’s Finger; put them into a clean Sauce-pan, and just cover them with Water. When enough throw them into a Sieve to drain, and put them into a Sauce- Pan with a good Piece of Butter; stir them over the Fire for five or six Minutes, and send them to Table. To dress Potatoes, ALMOST all other Garden Stuff, (except Spinach) boils best in Plenty of Water, but Potatoes should have as little as possible to cover them, and prevent the Sauce-pan from burning; cover the Sauce-pan close, let them boil very slowly or they will break to pieces, and when the Skin begins to crack they are enough. Drain all the Water out, and let them stand covered for a Minute or two; then peel them, lay C4 them 32 The whole Art of COOKERY them in your Plate, and pour some melted Butter over them. The best Way to do them is, when they are peeled to lay them on a Gridiron ’till they are of a fine Brown, and send them to Table. Another Way is to put them into a Sauce-pan with some good Beef Dripping, cover them close, and shake the Sauce-pan often for fear of burning to the Bottom. When they are of a fine brown and crisp, send them to Table after draining off the Fat. To dress Artichokes. TWIST or cut off the Stalks, and put them into the Pot to boil when the Water is cold, with the Tops downwards, by which Means the Dust and Sand will boil out. After the Water boils they will be done in an Hour and a Half. To dress Spinach. PICK it very clean, and wash it in five or six Wa- ters; put it in a Sauce-pan that will just hold it, throw a little Salt over it, and cover the Pan close, but don’t put any Water in; and shake the Pan often. You must put your Sauce-pan on a clear quick Fire. As soon as you find the Greens are shrunk and fallen to the Bottom, and that the Liquor which comes out of them boils up, they are enough. Throw them into a clean Sieve to drain, and just give them a little Squeeze. Lay them in a Plate, and send up your Butter in a Cup. To make Pease Soup in Lent. TAKE a Quart of nice split Pease, put them into a Pot with a Gallon of Water, two or three large Onions, Half a Dozen Anchovies, a little Whole Pepper and Salt; boil all together ’till your Soup is thick; strain it thro’ a Cullender into a Stew-pan, and put six Ounces of Butter (worked in Flour) into the Soup to thicken it. Put in likewise a little boiled Sellery, 33 made Plain and Easy. Sellery, stewed Spinach, crisp Bread, and a little dried Mint powdered; so serve it up. Common Pease Soup in Winter. TAKE a Quart of good boiling Pease, and put into a Pot with a Gallon of cold soft Water; add thereto a little Beef or Mutton, a Piece of Salt Pork or Bacon, and two or three large Onions. Boil them all together ’till your Soup is thick; salt it to your Taste, and Strain it thro’ a Cullender. Boil a little Sellery, cut it in small Pieces, with a little crisp Bread, and crisp a little Spinach as you would do Parsley, then put it in a Dish, and serve it up. To make Onion Soup. TAKE four or five large Onions, peel and boil them in Milk and Water ’till they are tender, (Shifting them two or three Times in the boiling) beat ’em in a Marble Mortar to a Pulp, rub them through a Hair Sieve, and put them into a little good Gravy: Then fry a few Slices of Veal, and two or three Slices of lean Bacon; beat them in a Marble Mortar as small as Force-meat; put it into your Stew-pan with the Gravy and Onions, and boil them. Mix a Spoon- ful of Flour with a little Water, and put it into the Soup to keep it from running: Strain all through a Cullender, and season it to your Taste. Then put into the Dish a little Spinach stewed in Butter, and a little crisp Bread; so serve it up. To make Green Pease Soup. TAKE a Scrag of Mutton, and a Knuckle of Veal, make of them a little good Gravy; then take half a Peck of the greenest young Pease, boil and beat them to a Pulp in a Marble Mortar: Put to them a little of the Gravy; and strain them through a Hair Sieve to take out all the Pulp: Then put all together, with a little Salt and Whole Pepper; give it a boil C5 and 34 The whole Art of COOKERY and it you think the Soup not Green enough, boil a Handful of Spinach very tender, rub it through a Hair Sieve, and put into the Soup with one Spoonful of Flour: You must not let it boil after the Spinach is put in, for it will discolour it. Then cut white Bread in little Diamonds, fry them in Butter ’till they are crisp, and put it into a Dish with a few whole Pease. Garnish your Dish with red Beet Root. To make Asparagus Soup. YOU may make Asparagus Soup the same Way as is directed for the Green Pease Soup, only add Tops of Asparagus, instead of whole Pease. To make Hare Soup. CUT the Hare into small Pieces, wash it and put it into a Stew-pan, with a Knuckle of Veal; put in with it a Gallon of Water, a little Salt, and a Handful of sweet Herbs; let it stew ’till the Gravy be good; and fry a little of the Hare to brown the Soup. You may put some Crusts of white Bread among the Meat to thicken the Soup; and put it into a Dish, with a lit- tle stewed Spinach, crisped Bread, and a few Force- meat Balls. Garish your Dish with boiled Spinach, and Turnips cut in thin square Slices. Cucumber Soup. TAKE a Leg of Beef, break it small and put it into a Stew-pan, with Part of a Neck of Mutton, a little Whole Pepper, an Onion, and a little Salt; cover it with Water, and let it stand in the Oven all Night; then strain it and take off the Fat; Pare six or eight middle-sized Cucumbers, and slice them, not very thin, stew them, and put in a little Butter and a little Whole Pepper; take them out of the Butter and put ’em into the Gravy, and serve it up with Toasts of Bread, or French Roll. To 35 made Plain and Easy. To make Vermicelly Soup. TAKE a Neck of Beef, or any other coarse Piece; cut off some Slices, and fry them with Butter ’till they are very brown; wash your Pan out every Time with a little of the Gravy; and you may broil a few Slices of the Beef upon a Gridiron. Put all together into a Pot, with a large Onion, a little Salt, and a little Whole Pepper; let it stew ’till the Meat is tender, and skim off the Fat in the boiling; then strain it into your Dish, and boil four Ounces of Ver- micelly in a little of the Gravy ’till it is soft: Add a little stewed Spinach; then put all together into a with Toasts of Bread; laying a little Vermi- celly upon every Toast. Garnish your Dish with boiled Spinach, or Carrots sliced thin. Craw-Fish Soup. TAKE a Knuckle of Veal, and Part of a Neck of Mutton to make white Gravy, puting in an Onion, a little Whole Pepper and Salt to your Taste: Then take a Quarter of a Hundred of Craw-Fish, boil and beat them in a Marble Mortar, adding thereto a little of the Gravy, strain them and put them into the Gravy, with two or three Pieces of white Bread, to thicken the Soup. Boil twelve or fourteen of the smallest Craw-Fish, and put them into the Dish, with a few Toasts, or a French Roll, which you please; so serve it up. You may make Lobster Soup the same Way, only add into the Soup the Seeds of the Lobster. To make Scotch Soup. TAKE a Leg of Beef, cut it in Pieces, with Part of a Neck of Mutton, and a Pound of French Barley; put them all into your Pot, with six Quarts of Water; let it boil ’till the Barley be soft, then put in a Fowl, As soon as ’tis enough put in a Handful of 36 The whole Art of Cookery of red Beet Leaves or Brocola, a Handful of the Blades of Onions, a Handful of Spinach, washed and shred very small: Only let them have a little boil, for it will spoil the Greenness. Serve it up with the Fowl in the Dish, garnished with Raspings of Bread. To stew a Brisket of Beef, TAKE the thin Part of a Brisket of Beef, score the Skin at the Top, and take off the under Skin; then take out the Bones, season it highly with Mace, a little Salt, and a little Whole Pepper; rub it on both Sides, and let it lay all Night. Make Broth of the Bones, skim the Fat clean off, put in as much Water as will cover it well, and let it stew over a slow Fire four or five Hours, with a Bunch of sweet Herbs and an Onion cut in Quarters. Turn the Beef over every Hour, and when you find it tender take it out of the Broth and drain it very well, having made a little good strong Gravy. Make a Ragoo with Sweet-breads cut in Pieces, Pallets boiled tender and cut in long Pieces, Truffles and Morels, Mushrooms, with a little red Wine, and throw in your Beef, let it stew a Quarter of an Hour in the Ragoo, turning it over sometimes; then take out the Beef, and thicken your Ragoo with a Lump of Butter and a little Flour. Garnish your Dish with Horse-radish and Pickles. Lay the Ragoo round your Beef, and a little upon the Top; so serve it up. To stew a Rump of Beef. TAKE a fat Rump of young Beef and cut off the Fag End, lard the lower Part with fat Bacon, and stuff the other Part with shred Parsley; put it into your Pan with two or three Quarts of Water, a Quart of red Wine, two or three Anchovies, an Onion, two or three Blades of Mace, a little Whole Pepper, and a Bunch of sweet Herbs. Let it stew over a slow Fire 37 made Plain and Easy. Fire five or six Hours, turning it several Times in the Stewing, and keep it dose covered; when your Beef is enough take from it the Gravy, thicken Part of it with a Lump of Butter and Flour, and put it upon the Dish with the Beef. Garnish the Dish with Horse- radish and red Beet Root. There must be no Salt upon the Beef, only salt the Gravy to your Taste. You may stew any other Piece the same Way; or an Ox Cheek thus managed is a good Dish. To make Olives of Beef. TAKE some Slices of a Rump of Beef, or any other tender Part, and beat them with a Paste-pin; season them with Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt, and rub them over with the Yolk of an Egg; make a little force-meat of Veal, Beef-suet, a few Bread-crumbs, sweet Herbs, a little shred Mace, Pepper, Salt, and two Eggs, mixed all together; take two or three Slices the Beef, according as they are in Bigness, and a Lump of Force-meat the Size of an Egg; lay your beef round it, and roll it in Part of a Call of Veal, Put it in an earthen Dish, with a little Water, a Glass of red Wine, and a small Onion shred fine: Lay upon them a little Butter, and bake them in an Oven about an Hour; when they come out take off the Fat, and thicken the Gravy with a little Butter and Flour: Six of them is enough for a Side-Dish. Garnish the Dish with Horse-radish and Pickles. Olives of Veal may be made the same Way. To roast a Turkey stuffed. CHUSE a young Hen Turkey, that is well fed; for the Hen is much preferable to the Cock; let her be trussed in the Manner here directed, and in order to make her look plump, break down the Breast Bone. Stuff and then spit her, and roast her before a slow Fire that she may soak through and not blister; but 38 The whole Art of COOKERY but just brisk up the Fire to froth her up when she is enough done, which will be in an Hour and a Quar- ter if she is young, but if not she will take an Hour and a Half or three Quarters. People of Taste chuse to have a Turkey larded, which is done by cutting Slices of fat Bacon to cover the Breast, Sides, and Back, and tying them on: These Slices by the fashionable Cooks are called Lar doons; and they may be used or let alone. When you dish up the Turkey, lay a few Force meat Balls round her; put a little Sauce in the Dish, and the rest in a Bason. Garnish with Slices of Lemon. A Turkey Truss'd for roasting. THE Turkey for roasting has the Pinions turned back in the same Manner as a Fowl; the Legs are cut off at the short Joint, and Skewered close to the vent; the Head is left on, and the Neck brought through the Pinion as is directed in the above Figure. Sauce for the Turkey. FOR Sauce have good white Gravy; and boil in it a few Bread Crumbs, and a little Whole Pep- per; thicken it with Flour and a Lump of Butter, and if you have no Dislike to it boil up an Onion in it. To make Stuffing for the Turkey’s Breast. SCALD the Liver and shred it very fine; take also a little nice Beef Suet finely shred, or if you not this some fresh Butter; shred also a little Parsley and Lemon-peel, and mix these with Bread Crumbs grated 39 made Plain and Easy. grated very fine; season it with Pepper, Nutmeg, and salt, to your Taste: Then mix it up with a Couple and a Spoonful or two of Cream. Stuffing for a Fillet or Shoulder of Veal. THE Stuffing above directed for the Turkey, is proper for either a Shoulder or Fillet of Veal, only the Liver is omitted; this is likewise proper for a Hare or Rabbit. Many People add to it an An- chovy, which is a very proper Addition for those who like the Flavour. To make a rich Turkey Pie. TAKE a young Turkey and bone her, only leave in the thigh Bones and Short Pinions; bone also a large Fowl, and season them on the inside with a little shred Mace, Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt; lay the Fowl in the inside of the low part of the Turkey, and stuff the Breast with a little white Stuffing. Take a deep Dish, lay a Paste round the Edge without any in the Bottom; lay in the Turkey, and lay round it a few Force-meat Balls, put in Half a Pound of But- ter, and Half a Pint of Water; then close up the Pie. An Hour and a Half will bake it; when it comes from the Oven take off the Lid, put in a Pint of stewed Oisters, the Yolks of six or eight Eggs, and lay them an equal Distance round the Turkey. You must not stew your Oisters in Gravy but in Water, and pour them upon your Turkey’s Breast; lay round six or eight Artichoke Bottoms fry’d; so serve it up with- out the Lid. Take the Fat out of the Pie before you put the Oisters. A Turkey A-la-Daube. HAVE a large Turkey, truss it, take down the Breast-bone, and stuff it in the Breast with some Stuffing, as you did the roast Turkey; lard it with Bacon, rub the Skin of the Turkey with the Yolk of an 40 The whole Art of COOKERY an Egg, and strew over it a little Nutmeg, Pepper, Salt, and a few Bread-crumbs; then put it, into a Copper-dish and send it to the Oven; when you dish it up, make for the Turkey brown Gravy Sauce; shred into your Sauce a few Oisters and Mushrooms; lay round Artichoke Bottoms fried, stewed Pallets, Force-meat Balls, and a little crisp Bacon. Garnish your Dish with pickled Mushrooms, and Slices of Lemon. This is a proper Dish for a Remove. Potted Turkey. TAKE a Turkey, bone her as you did for the Pie, and season it very well in the Inside and Outside with Mace, Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt, then put it into a Pot that you design to keep it in; put over it a Pound of Butter; when it is baked draw from it the Gravy, and take off the Fat, then squeeze it down very tight in the Pot, and to keep it down lay upon it a Weight: When it is cold take Part of the Butter that came from it, and clarify a little more with it to cover your Turkey, and keep it in a cool Place for Use; you may put a Fowl in the Belly if you please. Ducks or Geese are potted the same Way. To Pot Pigeons. TRUSS your Pigeons in the same manner as for roasting; season them in the Inside with Pepper and Salt, and then roast them. When they are done put them into a Pot suited to the Number of them, and let the Feet stand up as when trussed. When they are cold cover them with clarified Butter, and they are done. This is attended with very little Trouble, and is an excellent Method. To 41 made Plain and Easy. To Pot a Hare. THE old Method of beating them in a Mortar like potted Beef, is now justly laid aside by all good Cooks; for by that Custom one thing Potted was just as good as another. Therefore the only right Method is this: Having cased the Hare, wipe her dry; cut her in Joints as if she was dressed, and that you was carving her on the Table; keep out all the bloody Parts and Skins, and season the rest with Mace, Pep- Per, and Salt: Then put your Hare in an earthen Pan that will bear the Fire, and having covered the Meat with a Pound of fresh Beef Suet, send it to the Oven, and let it stand in a slow Heat all Night. When it comes home take off the Fat, put the Pieces in different Pots, cover them with clarified Butter, and keep it for Use. Some put in a Slice or two of Bacon before they bake it, which gives a Flavour very agreeable to many. By the same Method, and by adding Seasoning to your Taste, you may Pot Partridge, Woodcocks, Wild-Ducks, Teal, Fowls, &c. &c. whole or in Quarters. To Pot Smelts. LET your Smelts be both fresh and large; wipe them well with a clean dry Cloth, and take out the Guts with a Skewer; but be sure to leave in both the Melt and the Roes: Season them with a little Mace, Nutmeg, and Salt, and then lay them in a long flat baking Pan. If you have about forty, lay over them Half a Pound of Butter, and after tying a Paper over, send them to a slow Oven, or it will burn them black. Let them stand in the Oven an Hour; after this take them out carefully, so as not to break them, and lay them in a Dish to drain; when they are drained, put them in long Pots, suitable to their 42 The whole Art of COOKERY their Size, and sprinkle between each Layer, some of the same Seasoning you used before, in order to make them keep. As soon as they are cold cover them with clarified Butter, and they are fit for Use. Trout or any other Fish may be Potted in the same Manner; and Eels Potted are very rich eating. To Pot Venison. TAKE a Piece of Venison, Fat and Lean together, lay it in a Dish, and Stick Pieces of Butter all over; tie a Brown Paper over it, and bake it. When it comes out of the Oven, take it out of the Liquor hot, drain it, and lay it in a Dish; when cold, take off all the Skin, and beat it in a Marble Mortar, Fat and Lean together; season it with Mace, Cloves, Nutmeg, Black Pepper, and Salt to your Mind. When the Butter is cold, that it was baked in, take a little of it, and beat in with it to moisten it; then put it down close, and cover it with clarified Butter. To Pot a Cold Tongue, or Beef. CUT it small, then beat it well in a Marble Mortar, with melted Butter, and two Anchovies, ’till the Meat is mellow and fine; after this put it down close in your Pots, and cover it with clarified Butter. To Pot Tongues. TAKE a Neat’s Tongue, rub it with a Pound of White Salt, an Ounce of Salt-petre, Half a Pound of coarse Sugar, rub it well, turn it every Day in this Pickle for a Fortnight, This Pickle will do several Tongues, only adding a little more White Salt; or we generally do them after our Hams. Take Tongue out of the Pickle, cut off the Root, and boil it well, ’till it will peel; then take your Tongue and season it with Salt, Pepper, Cloves, Mace and Nutmeg, all beat fine; rub it well with your Hands whilst it is hot, then put it into a Pot, and melt 43 made Plain and Easy. melt as much Butter as will cover it all over. Bake it an Hour in the Oven, then take it out, let it stand to cool, rub a little fresh Spice on it; and when it is quite cold, lay it in your Pickling-pot. When your Butter is cold you baked it in, take it off clean from the Gravy, set it in an earthen Pan before the Fire; and when it is melted, pour it over the Tongue. You may Pigeons or Chickens on each Side. Be sure to let the Butter be about an Inch above the Tongue. To Pot Beef like Venison. CUT the Lean of a Buttock of Beef in Pound Pieces; for eight Pounds of Beef, take four Ounces of Salt-petre, and four Ounces of Peter-salt; a Pint of White Salt, and one Ounce of Sal-prunella; beat the salts all very fine, mix them well together, rub the Salts all into the Beef, then let it lie four Days, turn- ing it twice a Day; then put it into a Pan, cover it with Pump-Water, and a little of its own Brine, and bake it in an Oven with Household Bread ’till it is as tender as a Chicken; then drain it from the Gravy and bruise it abroad, and take out all the Skin and Sinews; pound it in a Marble Mortar, lay it in a broad Dish, mix in it an Ounce of Cloves and Mace, three Quar- ers of an Ounce of Pepper, and one Nutmeg, all beat very fine. Mix it all very well with the Meat, then clarify a little fresh Butter, and mix with the Meat, to make a little moist; mix it very well together, press it down into the Pots very hard, set it at the Oven’s Mouth just to settle, and cover it two Inches thick with clarified Butter. After it is cold tie white Paper over it. To Pot Cheshire Cheese. A Slice of this exceeds all the Cream Cheese that can be made. Take three Pounds of Cheshire Cheese, and put it into a Mortar, with Half a Pound of 44 The whole Art of COOKERY of the best fresh Butter you can get, pound them to- gether, and in the beating, add a Gill of rich Canary Wine, and Half an Ounce of Mace finely beaten and sifted. When all is extreamly well mixed, press it hard down into a Pot of a proper Size, cover it with clarified Butter, and keep it cool. To save potted Birds, that begin to be bad. SET a large Sauce-pan of clean Water on the Fire; when it boils, take off the Butter of the Top, then take the Fowls out one by one, throw them into that Sauce-pan of Water Half a Minute, wipe it out, and dry it in a clean Cloth inside and out; so do all ’till they are quite done. Scald the Pot clean, when the Birds are quite cold; season them with Mace, Pepper and Salt to your Mind, put them down close in the Pot, and pour clarified Butter over them. Potted Birds which have come a great Way, have often smelled so bad, that no Body could bear them the Butter being so rank, and by managing them in the following Manner, have been quite recovered, and as good as ever was eat. To pot Dripping, to fry Fish, Meat, or Fritters, &c. TAKE six Pounds of good Beef-Dripping, boil it in soft Water, strain it into a Pan, let it stand ’till cold; then take off the hard Fat, and scrape off the Gravy which sticks to the Inside. Thus do eight Times; when it is cold and hard, take it off clean from the Water, put it into a large Sauce-pan, with Half a Dozen Bay-Leaves, a Dozen Cloves, Half a Pound of Salt, and a Quarter of a Pound of Whole Pepper. Let the Fat be all melted and just hot, let it stand ’till it is hot enough to strain through a Sieve into the Pot, and after it is quite cold, then cover it up. Thus you may do what Quantity you please. The best Way to keep any Sort of Dripping is to turn 45 made Plain and Easy. turn the Pot upside-down, and then no Rats can get at it. It will make as fine Puff-paste Crust, as any Butter can do, or Crust for Puddings, &c. To make Dutch Beef. THE Dutch are particularly fond of the Juniper Berry, and ’tis for want of this Knowledge that all our Cooks have failed in their Attempts to make Dutch Beef; for the Flavour that they want is given by the Juniper: Therefore when prepared by this Receipt, it cannot be known from that which has been brought from Holland. Take the lean Part of a Buttock of Beef raw; where they divide the Buttock into an under and upper Lift, the Piece most Proper is easy to be had, which is the Ine solid smooth Part of the under Lift; this is all lean and of a proper Bigness, being about eight or ten Inches long, and about five or six round; But if you cannot have this, take some lean Part of the Buttock; rub it well with Brown Sugar all over, and let it lie in a Pan or Tray two or three Hours, turning it two or three Times, then salt it well with common Salt and Salt-petre, adding thereto a Couple of Ounces of Juniper Berries; in this Pickle let it lie a Fortnight, turning it every Day; then roll it very strait in a coarse cloth, put it in a Cheese-press a Day and a Night, and then tie it round like Brawn with coarse Inkle, and hang it to dry in a Chimney. When you boil it, you must put it in a Cloth; and when it is cold, keep it for Use. To roll a Pig's Head to eat like Brawn. TAKE a large Pig’s Head, cut off the Snout Ends, crack the Bones and put it in Water, shift it once or twice, and cut off the Ears; then boil it so tender that the Bones will slip out. Nick it with a knife in the thick Part of your Head, throw over it a pretty 46 The whole Art of COOKERY pretty large Handful of Salt; take Half a Dozen of large Neat’s Feet, boil them while they be soft, split them, and take out all the Bones and black Bits. Then take a strong coarse Cloth; and lay your Feet with the skin Side downwards, with all the loose Pieces on the Inside; press them with your Hand to make them of an equal thickness, lay them that Length that they will reach round the Head, and throw over them a Handful of Salt: When you have done this, lay your Head across, one thick Part one Way, and the other another, that the Fat may appear alike at both Ends; leave one Foot out to lay at the Top to make a Lantern to reach round, and then bind it with coarse Inkle as you would do Brawn, and tie it very close at both Ends. Take it out of the Cloth the next Day, take off the Filletting and wash it; and then wrap it about again very tight, and keep it in Brawn Pickle. This has been often taken for real Brawn. How to Collar a Piece of Beef to eat cold. TAKE a Flank of Beef, bone it, and take off the inner Skin; nick your Beef about an Inch dis- tance, but mind you do not cut through the Skin on the Outside: Then take two Ounces of Salt-petre, and beat it small, and mix with it a large Handful of common Salt; but first sprinkling your Beef over with a little Water, and lay it in a earthen Dish, and then sprinkle your Salt over it; To let it stand, four or five Days. Then take a pretty large Quantity of all Sorts of mild sweet Herbs, pick and shred them very small, and cut some Bacon in long Pieces the thickness of your Finger; lay a Layer of Bacon, and another of Greens in every Nick, when you have done season your Beef with a little beaten Mace, Pepper, Salt, and Nutmeg: You may add a little Neat’s Tongue if you chuse 47 made Plain and Easy. chuse it, and an Anchovie in some of the Nicks; so roll it up tight, bind it in a Cloth with coarse Inkle round it, put it into a large Stew-pot and cover it with Water. Let the Beef lie with the Ends downwards, put to it the Pickle that was in the Beef when it lay in salt, set it in a slow Oven all the Night, and then take it out and bind it tight, and tie up both Ends. The next Day take it out of the Cloth, and put it into Pickle. You must have the same Pickle it was Baked in: Take off the Fat, boil the Pickle, put in a Handful of Salt, a few Bay Leaves, a little whole Jamaica and black Pepper, a Quart of stale strong Beer, and a little Vinegar. If you make the Pickle very good, it will keep five or six Months very well. Take Care your Beef be not too much baked, and it will cut all in Diamonds, To make a white Fricasy of Eggs. TAKE ten or twelve Eggs, boil them hard and peel them; put them in a Stew-pan with a little Gravy: Take the Yolks of two or three Eggs, beat them very well, put to them two or three Spoon- fuls of Cream, a Spoonful of white Wine, a little Juice of Lemon, shred Parsley, and Salt to your Taste; shake all together over the Stove ’till it be as thick as Cream, but don’t let it boil; lay one Part of your Eggs whole on the Dish, the rest cut in Halves Quarters, and lay round your Dish. You must not cut them ’till you want to lay them on the Dish. Garnish your Dish with Sippets, and serve it up. To make a brown Fricasy of Eggs. TAKE eight or ten Eggs, boil them hard, put them in Water, take off the Shell, fry them in Butter whilst they be a deep Brown, put them into a Stew- pan with a little brown Gravy, and a Lump of But- er; so thicken it up with Flour; Take two or three Eggs, 48 The whole Art of COOKERY Eggs, lay them in the middle of the Dish, then cut the other in two, and set them with the small Ends upwards, round the Dish: Fry some Sippets and lay round them. And garnish the Dish with crisp Parsley. This is proper for a Side-dish in Lent or any other Time. To make a Fricasy of Sweet Breads. TAKE five or six Veal Sweetbreads, according as you would have your Dish in Bigness; boil them in Water, cut them in thin Slices the length Way, dip them in Egg, season them with Pepper and Salt, and fry them a little Brown, Then put them into a Stew-pan with a little brown Gravy, a Spoonful of white Wine, or Juice of Lemon, which you please: Thicken it up with Flour and Butter; and serve it up. Garnish your Dish with crisp Parsley. To make a Fricasy of Pig’s Ears. TAKE three or four Pig’s Ears according as you would have your Dish in Bigness, clean and boil them very tender, cut in small Shreds the length of your Finger, and fry them with Butter ’till they be brown: Then put them into a Stew-pan with a little brown Gravy, a Lump of Butter, a Spoonful of Vine- gar, and a little Mustard and Salt, thickened with Flour. Take two or three Pig’s Feet and boil them very tender, fit for eating; then cut them in two and take out the large Bones, dip them in Egg, strew over them a few Bread-crumbs, and season them with Pep- per and Salt. These you may either fry or boil, lay them in the middle of your Dish with the Pig’s Ears and Gravy. They are proper for a Side-dish, and are very elegant eating when thus dressed. Pigg’s Ears ragoo’d are justly esteemed a fine Dish; it is prepared with some Trouble, but the Expence is trifling. To 49 made Plain and Easy. To make a Fricasy of Tripe. TAKE the whitest seam Tripes you can get, and cut them in long Pieces, put them into a Stew- pan with a little good Gravy, a few Bread-crumbs, a Lump of Butter, a little Vinegar, and a little Mustard if you like it; and shake it up together with a little shred Parsley. Garnish your Dish with Sippets. This is also proper for a Side-dish. A Fricasy of Lamb White. TAKE a Leg of Lamb, half roast it, when it is cold cut it in Slices, put it into a Stew-pan with a little white Gravy, a Shalot shred fine, a little Nut- meg, Salt, and a few shred Capers; let it boil over a Stove whilst the Lamb is enough. To thicken your Sauce, take three Spoonfuls of Cream, the Yolks of two Eggs, a little shred Parsley, and beat them well together; then put it into your Stew-pan and shake it whilst it is thick, but don’t let it boil; if this do not make it thick, put in a little Flour and Butter, so serve it up. Garnish your Dish with Mushrooms, Oisters, and Lemon. A Brown Fricasy of Lamb. TAKE a Leg of Lamb, cut it in thin Slices and season it with Pepper and Salt, then fry it brown Butter; when it is fried put it into your Stew- Pan with a little brown Gravy, an Anchovy, a Spoon- ful or two of Wine, grate in a little Nutmeg, and set it over the Stove; thicken your Sauce with Flour and Butter. Garnish your Dish with Mushrooms, Oisters and Lemon. A white Fricasy of Rabbits. TAKE a Couple of young Rabbits and half roast them; when they are cold take off the Skin, and cut the Rabbits in small Pieces, (but take only the white Part:) When you have cut it in Pieces, put it D into 50 The whole Art of COOKERY a Stew-pan with white Gravy, a small Anchovy, a little Onion, shred Mace, and Lemon-peel; set it over a Stove, and let it have one Boil. Then take a little Cream, the Yolks of two Eggs, a Lump of Butter, a little Juice of Lemon and shred Parsley; Put them all together into a Stew-pan, and shake them over the Fire whilst they be as white as Cream; you must not let it boil, if you do it will curdle. Garnish your Dish with shred Lemon and Pickles. To make a brown Fricasy of Rabbits. TAKE a Rabbit, cut the Legs in three Pieces, and the remainder of the Rabbit the same Bigness; beat them thin, and fry them in Butter over a quick Fire: When they are fried put them into a Stew-pan with a little Gravy, a Spoonful of Catchup, and a little Nutmeg; then shake it up with a little Flour and Butter. Garnish your Dish with crisp Parsley. To make a white Fricasy of Chickens. TAKE two or more Chickens, half roast them, cut them up as you do for Eating, and skin them; put them into a Stew-pan with a little white Gravy, Juice of Lemon, two Anchovies, shred Mace and Nutmeg; then boil it. Take the Yolks of three Eggs, a little sweet Cream and shred Parsley, put them into your Stew-pan with a Lump of Butter and a little Salt; shake them all the while they are over the Stove, and be sure you do not let them boil left they should curdle. Garnish your Dish with Sippets and Lemon. To make a brown Fricasy of Chickens. TAKE two or more Chickens, as you would have your Dish in Bigness, cut them up as you do for Eating, and flat them a little with a Paste Pin; fry them a little Brown, and put them into your Stew-pan with a little Gravy, a Spoonful or two of white Wine, a little 51 made Plain and Easy. a little Nutmeg and Salt; thicken it up with Flour and Butter. Garnish your Dish with Sippets and crisp Parsley. To boil Ducks with Onion Sauce. TAKE two fat Ducks, and season them with a little Pepper and Salt, skewer them up at both Ends, and boil them whilst they are tender. Take four or five large Onions and boil them in Milk and Water; change the Water two or three Times in the boiling, and when they are enough chop them very small; rub them through a Hair Sieve with the back of a Spoon, ’till you have rubb’d them quite through; then melt a little Butter, put in your Onions and a little Salt, and Pour it upon your Ducks. Garnish your Dish with Onions and Sippets. To stew Ducks either Wild or Tame. TAKE a Couple of Ducks and half roast them; cut them up as you would do for Eating, then put into a Stew-pan with a little brown Gravy, a Glass of red Wine, two Anchovies, a small Onion shred very fine, and a little Salt; let them simmer ’till they are hot, thicken it with Flour and Butter, so serve it Up. Garnish your Dish with Sippets. To make white Scotch Collops. TAKE about four Pounds of a Fillet of Veal, cut it in small Pieces as thin as you can, then take a Stew-pan, butter it well over, and shake a little Flour over it; then lay your Meat in Piece by Piece, whilst all your Pan be covered; put in two or three Blades of Mace, and a little Nutmeg, set your Stew-pan over the Fire, and toss it up together ’till all your Meat be white; then take Half a Pint of strong Veal Broth, which must be ready made, a Quarter of a Pint of Cream, and the Yolks of two Eggs; mix all these together, put it to your Meat, keeping it tossing all D2 the 52 The whole Art of COOKERY the Time ’till they just boil up, then they are enough: The last thing you do squeeze in a little Lemon. You may put in Oisters, Mushrooms, or what you will to make it Rich. To dress Rabbits to look like Moor-game. TAKE a young Rabbit, when it is cased cut off the Wings and the Head; leave the Neck of your Rabbit as long as you can: When you case it you must leave on the Feet; pull off the Skin, leave on the Claws, so double your Rabbit and skewer it like a Fowl; put a Skewer at the Bottom through the Legs and Neck, and tie it with a String, to prevent it from flying open; when you dish it up make the same Sauce as you would do for Patridges. Three is enough for one Dish. To fry Calf's Feet in Butter. BLANCH four Calves Feet, and boil them as you would do for Eating; take out the large Bones and cut them in two; then beat a Spoonful of Wheat- Flour and four Eggs together; put to it a little Nut- meg, Pepper and Salt; dip in your Calves Feet, and fry them in Butter a light brown. Lay them upon your Dish with a little melted Butter over them. Garnish with Slices of Lemon. To Pickle Pigeons. TAKE your Pigeons and bone them: You must begin to bone them at the Neck, and turn the Skin downwards; when they are boned season them with Pepper, Salt, and Nutmeg, sew up both Ends, and boil them in Water and white Wine Vinegar, with a few Bay Leaves, and a little Whole Pepper and Salt. When they are enough take them out of the Pickle, and boil it down with a little more Salt; and when it cold put in the Pigeons and keep them for Use. To 53 made Plain and Easy. To pickle Pork for keeping. CUT off the Leg, Shoulder Pieces, the bloody Neck and the Spare-Rib as bare as you can, then cut the middle Pieces as large as they can lie in the Pub, salt them with Saltpetre, Bay-salt, and white Salt. Your Saltpetre must be beat small, and mixed with the other Salts. Half a Peck of white Salt, a Quart of Bay-salt, and Half a Pound of Saltpetre, is enough for a large Hog. You must rub the Pork very well with your Salt, then lay a thick Layer of Salt all over the Tub, then a Piece of Pork, and do so ’till all your Pork is in: Lay the Skin Side downwards, fill up all the Hollows and Sides of the Tub with little Pieces that are not bloody, press all down as close as possible, and lay on a good Layer of Salt on the Top; then lay on the Legs and Shoulder Pieces, which must be used first; the rest will keep two Years if not pulled up, nor the Pickle poured from it. You must observe to see it be covered with Pickle. To pickle Pork to eat soon. You must take two Gallons of Pump-water, one Pound of Bay-salt, one Pound of coarse Sugar, six Ounces of Salt-petre; boil it all together, and skim it when cold. Cut the Pork in what Pieces you please, lay it down close, and pour the Liquor over it. Lay a Weight on it to keep it close, cover it up from the Air, and it will be fit to use in a Week. If you find the Pickle begins to spoil, boil it up again, and skim it; and when it is cold, pour it on your Pork again. To make Bacon. IN some Countries it is usual to scald Bacon Hogs as well as Porkers; but the Bacon is firmer by scorch- ing off the Hairs with Straw. D3 Your 54 The whole Art of COOKERY Your Hog being cut up, take the Sides for the Flitches and take off all the inside Fat, lay it on a long Board or Dresser, that the Blood may run away; rub it well with good Salt on both Sides, let it lie thus a Week, then take a Pint of Bay-salt, and a Quarter of a Pound of Salt-petre, beat them fine, and mix them with two Pounds of coarse Sugar, and a Quarter of a Peck of common Salt. Lay your Pork in some- thing that will hold the Pickle, and rub it well with the above Ingredients. Lay the skin Side downwards, and baste it every Day with the Pickle for a Fortnight; then hang it in Wood-Smoke to dry, and afterwards keep it in a dry Place, but not hot. You are to ob- serve, that all Hams and Bacon should hang clear from every Thing, and not against a Wall. Observe to wipe off all the old Salt before you put it into this Pickle, and never keep Bacon nor Hams in a hot Kitchen, or in a Room where the Sun comes. It makes them all rusty. To make Bacon Hams. YOU must chuse the Legs of fine well fed Bacon Hogs, or very fat Porkers, and cut them large and fine. Take an Ounce of Salt-petre, a Pound of coarse Sugar, and a Pound of common Salt; mix all together, and rub it well. Let it lie a Month in this Pickle, turning and basting it every Day, then hang it in Wood-smoke in a dry Place, so as no Heat comes to it; and if you keep them long, hang them a Month or two in a damp Place, so as they will be Mouldy, and it will make them cut fine and Mellow. To boil Hams the best Way for making them eat fine, without destroying the true Flavour, see pag. 23. The Pickle in which these Hams were cured, does finely for Tongues afterwards, to lie in it a Fortnight; and 55 made Plain and Easy. and then they may be hung in the Wood-smoke a Fortnight, or be boiled out of the Pickle. Yorkshire is famous for Hams; and the Reason is this: Their Salt is much finer than ours in London, it is a large clear Salt, and gives the Meat a fine Flavour. I used to have it from Malding in Essex, and that Salt will make any Ham as fine as you can desire. It is by much the best Salt, for salting of Meat. A deep hollow Wooden Tray is better than a Pan, because the Pickle swells best about it. When you broil any of these Hams in Slices or Bacon, have some boiling Water ready, and let the Slices lay a Minute or two in the Water; then broil them, it takes out the Salt, and makes them eat finer. To make Veal Hams. CUT the Leg of Veal like a Ham, then take a Pint of Bay-salt, two Ounces of Salt-petre, a Pound of common Salt; mix them together, with an Ounce of Juniper Berries beat; rub the Ham well, and lay in a hollow Tray, with the skin Side downwards. Baste it every Day with the Pickle for a Fortnight, and then hang it in Wood-Smoke for a Fortnight. You may boil it or parboil it, and roast it. In this Pickle you may afterwards do two or three Tongues, or a Piece of Pork. To make Beef Hams, or Hang Beef. YOU must take a Leg of fat, but small Beef, (the fat Scotch or Welch Cattle is best) and cut it Ham Fashion. Take an Ounce of Bay-salt, an Ounce of Salt-petre, a Pound of common Salt, and a Pound of coarse Sugar (this Quantity for about fourteen or fifteen Pounds Weight, and so accordingly, if you pickle the whole Quarter) rub it with the above In- gredients, turn it every Day, and baste it well with Pickle for a Month: Take it out and roll it in D4 Bran 56 The whole Art of COOKERY Bran or Sawdust, then hang it in Wood-smoke, where there is but little Fire and a constant Smoke, for a Month; then take it down, and hang it in a dry Place, not hot, and keep it for Use. You may cut a Piece off as you have Occasion, and either boil it or cut it in Rashers, and broil it with poached Eggs, or boil a Piece, and it eats fine cold, and will shiver like Dutch Beef. After this Beef is done, you may do a thick Briscuit of Beef in the same Pickle. Let it lay a Month, rubbing it every Day with the Pickle, then boil it ’till it is tender, hang it in a dry Place, and it eats finely cold, cut in Slices on a Plate, it is a pretty Thing for a Side-dish, or for Supper, A Shoulder of Mutton laid in this Pickle a Week, hung in Wood- smoke two or three Days, and then boiled with Cab- bage, is very good. To make Mutton Hams. A Hind-Quarter of Mutton must be cut like a Ham; then take one Ounce of Salt-petre, a Pound of coarse Sugar, a Pound of common Salt; mix them and rub your Ham, lay it in a hollow Tray with the Skin downwards, baste it every Day for a Fortnight, then roll it in Bran, or Sawdust, and hang it in the Wood-smoke a Fortnight; then hang it in a dry Place, and cut it out in Rashers. It don’t eat well boiled, but eats finely broiled. To boil a Leg of Lamb, with the Loin fried about it. WHEN your Lamb is boiled Lay it in the Dish, and pour upon, it a little Parsley and Butter; then lay your fried Lamb round it; and cut some Asparagus to the Bigness of Pease; boil it Green, and lay it round your Lamb in Spoonfuls. Garnish the Dish with crisp’d Parsley. A Leg 57 made Plain and Easy. A Leg of Lamb boiled with Chickens round it. When your Lamb is boiled pour over it Parsley and Butter; lay the Chickens round your Lamb, and pour over the Chickens a little white fricasy Sauce. Garnish your Dish with Sippets and Lemon. A Knuckle of Veal with Rice. TAKE a Knuckle of Veal and a Scrag of Mutton, put them into a Kettle with as much Water as will cover them, and Half a Pound of Rice; before you put in the Rice let the Kettle be skim’d very well, it will make the Rice the Whiter. Put in a Blade or two of Mace, and a little Salt; so let them boil all together, ’till the Rice and Meat he thoroughly enough. You must not let the Broth be over thick; and serve it up with the Knuckle in the middle of the Dish, and Sippets round it. To stew Ducks whole. TAKE Ducks when they are drawn and clean washed, put them into a Stew-pan with Gravy, red Wine, Mace, Whole Pepper, an Onion, an An- chovy, and a little Lemon-peel; when well stewed put in a Piece of Butter and some grated Bread to thicken it: Lay round them crisp Bacon and Force- meat Balls. Garnish with Shalots. To roast Veal a savoury Way. WHEN you have stuffed your Veal, strew some of the Ingredients over it; when it is roasted make your Sauce of what drops from the Meat, put an Anchovy in Water, and when dissolved pour it into the Dripping-pan, with a large Lump of Butter and Oisters; toss it up with Flour to thicken it. To roast Lobsters. Lobsters for roasting should be alive; tie your Lobster tight to the Spit, and if it is a small one roast it Half an Hour, basting it with Salt and Water. D5 Split 58 The whole Art of COOKERY Split the Tail, lay it in a Dish, and carry melted But- ter to Table in a Sauce Boat. But some boil their Lobsters, then lay them before the Fire, and baste them with Butter, ’till they have a fine Froth. This is as good a Way to the full as roasting them, and not half the Trouble. To butter Lobsters. THESE are convenient either for a Plate, or to make a fine and elegant Dish; for the whole matter is only to add such a Number as will suit your Purpose. Parboil your Lobsters, then break the Shells, pick out all the Meat, cut it small, take the Meat out of the Body, mix it fine with a Spoon in a little white Wine: For Example, to a small Lobster, one Spoonful of Wine; put it into a Sauce-pan with the Meat of the Lobster, four Spoonfuls of white Wine, a Blade of Mace, and a little beaten Pepper and Salt. Let it stew all together a few Minutes, then stir in a Piece of But- ter, shake your Sauce-pan round ’till your Butter is melted, put in a Spoonful of Vinegar, and strew in as many Crumbs of Bread as will make it thick enough. When it is hot, pour it into your Plate, and garnish with the Chine of a Lobster cut in four, peppered, salted, and broiled. To butter Crabs, or Lobsters another Way. TAKE two Crabs, or Lobsters, being boiled, and cold, pick all the Meat out of the Shells and Bodies, mince it small, and put it all together into a Sauce-pan; add to it a Glass of white Wine, two Spoonfuls of Vinegar, and a Nutmeg grated; then let it boil up ’till it is thoroughly hot. Have ready Half a Pound of fresh Butter, melted with an Anchovy, and the Yolks of two Eggs beat up and mixed with the Butter, then mix Crab and Butter all together, shaking the 59 made Plain and Easy. the Sauce-pan constantly round ’till it is quite hot. Put the great Shell, either of the Crab, or Lobster in the middle of your Dish; pour part into the Shell, and the rest into little Saucers round the Shell; sticking three-corner Toasts between the Saucers, and round the Shell. This is a fine Side-Dish at a Second Course. To dress a Crab to eat hot. HAVING taken out the Meat, and cleansed it from the Skin, put it into a Stew-pan, with Half a Pint of white Wine, a little Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt, over a slow Fire. Throw in a few Crumbs of Bread, beat up one Yolk of an Egg with a Spoonful of Vinegar, throw it in, then shake the Sauce-pan round a Minute, and serve it up on a Plate. To Stew Prawns, Shrimps, or Crawfish. PICK out the Tails, ’till there are about two Quarts, take the Bodies, give them a bruise, and put them into a Pint of white Wine, with a Blade of Mace: Let them stew a Quarter of an Hour, stir them toge- ther, and strain them; then wash out the Sauce-pan, put to it the strained Liquor, and Tails: Grate a small Nutmeg in, add a little Salt, and a Quarter of a Pound of Butter rolled in Flour; shake it all together, cut a pretty thin Toast round a Quarter of a Peck Loaf, toast it Brown on both Sides, cut it into six Pieces, lay it close together in the Bottom of your Dish, and pour your Fish and Sauce over it. Send it to Table hot. If it be Crawfish or Prawns, garnish your Dish with some of the biggest Claws, laid thick round. Water will do in the room of Wine, only add a Spoon- ful of Vinegar. To make Scollops of Oisters. PUT your Oisters into Scollop-shells for that pur- pose, set them on your Gridiron over a good clear Fire, let them stew ’till you think your Oisters are enough, 60 The whole Art of COOKERY enough, then have ready some Crumbs of Bread rub- bed in a Napkin, fill your Shells, and set them before a good Fire, and baste them well with Butter. Let them be of a fine Brown, keeping them turning, to be brown all over alike; but a Tin Oven does them best before the Fire. They eat much the best done this Way, though most People stew the Oisters first in a Sauce-pan, with a Blade of Mace, thickened with a Piece of Butter and fill the Shells, and then cover them with Crumbs, and brown them with a hot Iron: But the Bread has not the fine Taste of the former. To dress Mussels. NOTHING requires less Trouble if they are to be eat out of the Shell. Wash them clean, put them in a Stew-pan, and cover them dose with a wet Cloth; as soon as they open they are enough done. Put them into a Dish, and carry Vinegar to Table in Saucers, with a little Pepper; and they are eat thus with Bread and Butter. In eating Mussels Care should be taken to look un- der the Tongue, and see there are no Crabs; for they are very pernicious, if not absolute Poison: But avoid- ing these, the Mussel is a delicious Shell-Fish. Those who are unacquainted with the Crab in a Mussel, will be pleased with having it described so as to know it. This Crab then, is about the Bigness of a Pea; ’tis directly in the Shape of a Sea Crab, and of the Colour of the Mussel, or rather redder. To dress Cockles the common Way. COCKLES require being well washed in like man- ner with the Mussels, or else the Sand will hang upon them, and they eat very greety. Stew them as you did the Mussels; and they are eat in the same Manner; but in these there is nothing of the Crab Kind. To 61 made Plain and Easy. To Stew Mussels. WASH them very clean from the Sand in two or three Waters, put them into a Stew-pan, cover them close, and let them Stew ’till all the Shells are open; then take them out one by one, pick them out of the Shells, and look under the Tongue to see if there be a Crab; if there is, throw away the Mussel; tho’ some will only pick out the Crab, and eat the Mussel. When you have picked them all clean, put them into a Sauce-pan; and to a Quart of Mussels put Half a Pint of the Liquor strained through a Sieve; Put in a Blade or two of Mace, and a Piece of Butter as big as a large Walnut rolled in Flour: Let them stew; toast some Bread brown, and lay round the Dish, cut Three-corner-ways; pour in the Mussels, and send them to Table hot. Another Way to Stew Mussels. CLEAN and stew your Mussels as in the foregoing Receipt, only to a Quart of Mussels put a Pint of Liquor and a Quarter of a Pound of Butter rolled in a very little Flour. When they are enough, have some Crumbs of Bread ready, and cover the Bottom of your dish thick; grate Half a Nutmeg over them, and pour the Mussels and Sauce all over the Crumbs, and send them to Table. A third Way to dress Mussels. STEW them as above, and lay them in your Dish; strew your Crumbs of Bread thick all over them, then set them before a good Fire, turning the Dish round and round, that they may be brown all alike. Keep basting them with Butter, that the Crumbs may be crisp, and it will make a pretty Side-dish. Cockles may be stewed in the same Manner, and are equally good. To 62 The whole Art of COOKERY To ragoo Oisters. OPEN a Quart of the largest Oisters you can get, save the Liquor, and strain it through a fine Sieve; wash your Oisters in warm Water, and make a Bat- ter thus: Take two Yolks of Eggs, beat them well, grate in Half a Nutmeg, cut a little Lemon-peel small, a good deal of Parsley, a Spoonful of the Juice of Spinach, two Spoonfuls of Cream or Milk, and beat it up with Flour to a thick Batter. Have ready some Butter in a Stew-pan, dip your Oisters one by one into the Batter, and have ready Crumbs of Bread, then roll them in it, and fry them quick and brown; some with the Crumbs of Bread, and some without. When they are fried, take them out of the Pan, and set them before the Fire. Pour the Fat out of the Pan, shake a little Flour all over the Pan, and rub a Piece of Butter as big as a Hen’s Egg all over the Pan with your Spoon, ’till it is melted and thick; then put in the Oister-Liquor, three or four Blades of Mace, stir it round, put in a few Pistacho-Nuts shelled, and let them boil; then put in Half a Pint of white Wine, and have ready the Yolks of two Eggs beat up with four Spoonfuls of Cream; stir all well together, when it is thick and fine, lay the Oisters in the Dish, and pour the Ragoo over them. Garnish with Chesnuts and Lemon. You may ragoo Mussels the same Way; and you may leave out the Pistacho-Nuts, if you don’t like them; but they give the Sauce a fine Flavour. To ragoo French Beans. TAKE a few Beans, boil them tender, then take your Stew-pan, put in a Piece of Butter, when it is melted, shake in some Flour, and peel a large Onion, slice it and fry it brown in that Butter; then put in the Beans, shake in a little Pepper and a little Salt; 63 made Plain and Easy. Salt; grate a little Nutmeg in, have ready the Yolk of an Egg and some Cream; stir them all together for a Minute or two, and dish them up. To make good Brown Gravy. TAKE Half a Pint of Small Beer, or Ale that is not bitter, and Half a Pint of Water, an Onion cut small, a little Bit of Lemon-peel cut small, three Cloves, a Blade of Mace, some Whole Pepper, a Spoonful of Mushroom-Pickle, a Spoonful of Wal- nut-Pickle, a Spoonful of Catchup and an Anchovy; first put a Piece of Butter into a Sauce-pan, as big as a Hen’s Egg, when it is melted shake in a little Flour, and let it be a little Brown; then by Degrees stir in the above Ingredients, and let it boil a Quarter of an Hour, then strain it, and it is fit for Fish or Roots. A Shoulder of Mutton forc’d. TAKE a Pint of Oisters and chop them, put in a few Bread Crumbs, a little Pepper, shred Mace, and an Onion; mix them all together, and stuff your Mutton on both Sides, then roast it at a slow Fire, and baste it with nothing but Butter: Put into the Dripping-pan a little Water, two or three Spoonfuls of the Pickle of Oisters, a Glass of red Wine, an Onion shred small, and an Anchovy. If your Liquor waste before your Mutton is enough, put in a little more Water; and when the Meat is roasted, take up the Gravy, skim off the Fat, and thicken it with Flour and Butter; then serve it up. Garnish your dish with Horse-radish and Pickles. To stew a Fillet of Mutton. TAKE a Fillet of Mutton, stuff it the same as the Shoulder, half roast it, and put it into a Stew-pan with a little Gravy, Half a Pint of red Wine, an An- chovy, and a shred Onion: You may also put in a little Horse-radish and some Mushrooms. Stew it over 64 The whole Art of COOKERY over a slow Fire while the Mutton is enough; then take the Gravy, skim off the Fat, and thicken it with Flour and Butter. Lay Force-meat Balls round the Mutton, and garnish your Dish with Horse-radish and Mushrooms. It is proper either for a Side-dish or Bottom-dish. If you have it for a Bottom-dish, cut your Mutton into two Fillets. To make French Cutlets of Mutton. TAKE a Neck of Mutton, cut it in Joints, cut off the Ends of the long Bones, then scrape the Meat clean off the Bones about an Inch. Take a little of the in-part of the Meat of the Cutlets, and make it into Force meat; season it with Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt; then lay it upon your Cutlets, rub over them the Yolk of an Egg to make it stick; then chop a few sweet Herbs, put to them a few Bread Crumbs, and a little Pepper and Salt; strew it over the Cutlets, and wrap them in double Writing-Paper; Either broil them be- fore the Fire or in an Oven. Half an Hour will do them; and when you dish them up, take off the Out- Paper, and set in the midst of the Dish a little brown Gravy in a China-bason; or you may broil them with- out Paper if you please. To stew a Breast of Veal. CUT off both Ends of the fattest and whitest Breast of Veal you can get, and boil them for a little Gravy: Take the Veal and raise up the thin Part, make a Force-meat of the Sweet-bread boiled, a few Bread Crumbs, a little Beef-suet, two Eggs, a little Pepper and Salt, a Spoonful or two of Cream, and a little Nutmeg mixed all together: So stuff the Veal, skewer the Skin close down, dredge it over with Flour; tie it up in a Cloth, and boil it in Milk and Water about an Hour. For the Sauce take a little Gravy, about 65 made Plain and Easy. about Half a Pint of Oisters, a few Mushrooms shred, a little, Lemon shred fine, and a little Juice of Le- mon: Thicken it up with Flour and Butter; and when you dish it up pour the same over it. Lay over it a Sweet-bread or two cut in Slices and fried, and fried Oisters. Garnish your Dish with Lemon, Pickles and Mushrooms. This is proper for a Top-dish either at Noon or Night. To stew a Fillet of Veal. TAKE a fine fat Leg of Veal, cut off the Knuckle, and cut the rest into two Fillets; then take the fat Part and cut it in Pieces the thickness of your Finger. You must stuff the Veal with the fat; make the Hole with a Penknife, draw it thro’ and skewer it round; season it with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, and shred Parsley; then put it into your Stew-pan, with Half a Pound of Butter, (without Water) and set it on your Stove; let it boil very slow, and cover it close up, turning it very often: It will take about two Hours in Stewing. When it is done enough pour the Gravy from it; take off the Fat, put into the Gravy a Pint of Oisters and a few Capers, a little Lemon- peel, a Spoonful or two of white Wine, and a little Juice of Lemon; thicken it with Butter and Flour thickness of Cream: Lay round it Force-meat Balls and Oisters fried; so serve it up. Garnish your Dish with a few Capers and sliced Lemon. A pretty Dish of Eggs. BOIL six Eggs hard, peel them and cut them in thin Slices; put a Quarter of a Pound of Butter into the Stew-pan, then put in your Eggs and fry them quick. Half a Quarter of an Hour will do them; but you must be very careful not to break them. Throw over them Pepper, Salt and Nutmeg; lay them in your Dish 66 The whole Art of COOKERY Dish before the Fire, pour out all the Fat, shake in a little flour, and have ready two Shallots cut small; throw them into the Pan, pour in a Quarter of a Pint of white Wine, a little Juice of Lemon, and a little Piece of Butter rolled in Flour. Stir all together ’till it is thick; and if you have not Sauce enough, put in a little more Wine; toast some thin Slices of Bread cut Three-corner-ways, and lay round your Dish, pour the Sauce all over, and send it to Table hot. You may put Sweet Oil on the Toast, if it be agreeable. To stew a Turkey or Fowl. FIRST let your Pot be very clean, lay four clean Skewers at the Bottom, lay your Turkey or Fowl upon them, put in a Quart of Gravy, a Bunch of Sellery, cut small, and washed very clean; put it into your Pot, with two or three Blades of Mace, let it stew softly ’till there is just enough for Sauce, then add a good Piece of Butter rolled in Flour, two Spoon- fuls of red Wine, two of Catchup, and just as much Pepper and Salt as will season it; lay your Fowl of Turkey in the Dish, pour the Sauce over it, and send it to Table. If the Fowl or Turkey is enough before the Sauce, take it up, and keep it hot ’till the Sauce is boiled enough, then put it in, let it boil a Minute of two, and dish it up. To stew a Knuckle of Veal. BE sure let the Pot or Sauce-pan be very clean, lay at the Bottom four clean wooden Skewers, wash and clean the Knuckle very well, then lay it in the Pot with two or three Blades of Mace, a little Whole Pepper, a little Piece of Thyme, a small Onion, a Crust of Bread, and two Quarts of Water. Cover it down close, make it boll, then only let it simmer for two Hours, and when it is enough take it up, lay it in a Dish, and strain the Broth over it. Another 67 made Plain and Easy. Another Way to stew a Knuckle of Veal. CLEAN it as before directed, and boil it ’till there is just enough for Sauce; add one Spoonful of Catchup, one of red Wine, and one of Walnut Pickle, some Truffles and Morels, or some dried Mushrooms cut small; boil it all together, take up the Knuckle, lay it in a Dish, pour the Sauce over it, and send it to Table. Note, It eats very well done as the Turkey, before directed. To ragoo a Piece of Beef. TAKE a large Piece of the Flank which has Fat at the Top cut square, or any Piece that is all Meat, and has Fat at the Top, but no Bones. The Rump does well. Cut all nicely off the Bone (which makes fine Soup) then take a large Stew-pan and with a good Piece of Butter fry it a little Brown all over, flouring your Meat well before you put it into the Pan; then pour in as much Gravy as will cover it, made thus: Take about a Pound of coarse Beef, a little Piece of cut small, a Bundle of sweet Herbs, an Onion, some Whole Pepper and White Pepper, two or three large Blades of Mace, four or five Cloves, a Piece of Carrot, a little Piece of Bacon steeped in Vinegar a little while, a Crust of Bread toasted Brown; put to this a Quart of Water, and let it boil ’till Half is wasted. While this is making, pour a Quart of boil- ing Water into the Stew-pan, cover it close, and let it be stewing softly; when the Gravy is done strain it, pour it into the Pan where the Beef is, take an Ounce of Truffles and Morels cut small, some fresh or dried Mushrooms cut small, two Spoonfuls of Catchup, and cover it close. Let all this stew ’till the Sauce is rich and thick, then have ready some Artichoke Bottoms cut into four, and a few pickled Mushrooms; give them 68 The whole Art of COOKERY them a Boil or two, and when your Meat is tender and your Sauce quite rich, lay the Meat into a Dish and pour the Sauce over it. You may add a Sweet- bread cut in six Pieces, a Palate stewed tender cut into little Pieces, some Cocks-Combs, and a few Force- meat Balls. These are a great Addition, but it will be good without. Note, For Variety when the Beef is ready and the Gravy put to it, add a large Bunch of Sellery cut small and washed clean, two Spoonfuls of Catchup, and a Glass of red Wine. Omit all the other Ingredients. When the Meat and Sellery are tender, and the Sauce rich and good, serve it up. It is also very good this Way. Take six large Cucumbers, scoop out the Seeds, pare them, cut them into Slices, and do them just as you do the Sellery. To force the Inside of a Surloin of Beef. TAKE a sharp Knife, and carefully lift up the Fat of the Inside, take out all the Meat close to the Bone, chop it small, take a Pound of Suet and chop fine, about as many Crumbs of Bread, a little Thyme and Lemon-peel, a little Pepper and Salt, Half a Nut- meg grated, and two Shalots chopped fine; mix all to- gether, with a Glass of red Wine, then put it into the same Place, cover it with the Skin and Fat, skewer it down with fine Skewers, and cover it Paper. Don’t take the Paper off ’till the Meat is in the Dish. Take a Quarter of a Pint of red Wine, two Shalots shred small, boil them, and pour into the Dish with the Gravy which comes out of the Meat, and it eats well. Spit your Meat before you take out the Inside. Another 69 made Plain and Easy. Another Way to force a Surloin. WHEN it is quite roasted, take it up, and lay it in the Dish with the Inside uppermost; with a sharp Knife lift up the Skin, hack and cut the Inside very fine, shake a little Pepper and Salt over it, with two Shalots; cover it with the Skin, and send it to Table. You may add red Wine, or Vinegar, just as you like. To force the Inside of a Rump of Beef. YOU may do it just in the same Manner, only lift up the outside Skin, take the Middle of the Meat, and do as before directed; put it into the same Place, and with fine Skewers put it down close. How to Carbonade a Breast of Mutton. TAKE a Breast of Mutton, Half boil it, nick it cross, season it with Pepper and Salt; then broil it before the Fire whilst it be enough; sprinkling it over with Bread-crumbs; let the Sauce be a little Gravy and Butter, and a few shred Capers; put it upon the Dish with the Mutton. Garnish it with Horse-radish and Pickles. This is proper for a Side- dish at Noon, or a Bottom-dish at Night. A Chine of Mutton roasted, with stewed Sellery. TAKE a Loin of Mutton, cut off the thin Part and both Ends, take off the Skin, and score it in the Roasting as you would do Pork; then take a little Sellery, boil it, and cut it in Pieces about an Inch long, put to it a little good Gravy, Whole Pepper and Salt, two or three Spoonfuls of Cream and a Lump of Butter; so thicken it up, and pour it upon your Dish with your Mutton. This is proper for a Side-dish. Stewed Sellery eats very well with either Beef or Mutton; and those who like the Flavour are fond of it in almost every Thing. How 70 The whole Art of COOKERY How to dress a Leg of Mutton à la Royale. HAVING taken off all the Fat, Skin, and Shank Bone, lard it with Bacon, and season it with Pep- per and Salt; take a round Piece of about three or four Pounds of Beef or Leg of Veal, lard it; have ready some Hog’s-lard boiling, flour your Meat, and give it a Colour in the Lard, then take the Meat out and put it into a Pot, with a Bundle of sweet Herbs, some Parsley, an Onion stuck with Cloves, two or three Blades of Mace, some Whole Pepper and three Quarts of Water. Cover it close, and let it boil very softly for two Hours; mean while get ready a Sweet- bread split, cut into four, and broiled; a few Truffles and Morels stewed in a Quarter of a Pint of strong Gravy, a Glass of red Wine, a few Mushrooms, two Spoonfuls of Catchup, and some Asparagus Tops: Boil all these together, then lay the Mutton in the Middle of the Dish, cut the Beet or Veal into Slices, make a Rim round your Mutton with the Slices, and pour the Ragoo over it: When you have taken the Meat out of the Pot, skim all the Fat off the Gravy, strain it, and add as much to the other as will fill the Dish. Garnish with Lemon. Essence of Ham. TAKE off the Fat of a Ham, and cut the Lean in Slices, beat them well and lay them in the Bot- tom of a Stew-pan, with Slices of Carrots, Parsnips and Onions; cover your Pan, and set it over a gentle Fire: Let them stew ’till they begin to stick, then sprinkle on a little Flour, and turn them; then moisten with Broth and Veal Gravy. Season them with three or four Mushrooms, as many Truffles, a whole Leek, some Parsley, and Half a Dozen Cloves; or instead of a Leek, a Clove of Garlick. Put in some Crusts of Bread, and let them simmer over the Fire for a Quarter 71 made Plain and Easy. Quarter of an Hour; strain it, and set it away for Use. Any Pork or Ham does for this, that is well made. Mutton Kebobb’d. JOINT a Loin of Mutton between every Bone: season it with Pepper and Salt moderately; grate a small Nutmeg all over, dip them in the Yolks of three Eggs, and have ready Crumbs of Bread and sweet Herbs; dip them in and clap them together in the same Shape again; put it on a small Spit, roast it before a quick Fire, set a Dish under, and baste it with a little Piece of Butter, and then keep basting with what comes from it, and throw some Crumbs of Bread all over them as it is roasting: When it is enough take it up, and lay it in the Dish, and have ready Half a Pint of good Gravy, and what comes from it: Take two Spoonfuls of Catchup, and mix a Tea Spoonful of Flour with it and put to the Gravy, stir it together and give it a boil, and pour it over the Mutton. Note, You must observe to take off the Fat of the Inside, and the Skin off the Top of the Meat, and some of the Fat, if there be too much. When you put in what comes from your Meat into the Gravy, observe to pour out all the Fat. A Neck of Mutton, called the Hasty Dish. TAKE a large Pewter or Silver Dish, made like a deep Soup Dish, with an Edge about an Inch deep on the Inside, on which the Lid fixes (with a handle at Top) so fast that you may lift it up full, by that Handle without falling. This Dish is called a Necromancer. Take a Neck of Mutton about six pound, take off the Skin, cut it into Chops, not too thick, slice a French Roll thin, peel and slice a very large Onion, pare and slice three or four Turnips, lay a Row of Mutton in the Dish, on that a Row of Roll, then 72 The whole Art of COOKERY then a Row of Turnips, and then Onions, a little Salt, then the Meat, and so on; put in a little Bundle of sweet Herbs, and two or three Blades of Mace; have a Tea Kettle of Water boiling, fill the Dish and cover it close, hang the Dish on the Back of two Chairs by the Rim, have ready three Sheets of Brown Paper, tear each Sheet in five Pieces, and draw them through your Hand, light one Piece and hold it under the Bot- tom of the Dish, moving the Paper about; as fast as the Paper burns light another ’till all is burnt, and your Meat will be enough. Fifteen Minutes just does it. Send it to Table hot in the Dish. How to dress Ruffs and Reiss. THEY are Lincolnshire Birds, and you may fatten them as you do Chickens, with white Bread, Milk and Sugar. They feed fast, and will die in their Fat if not killed in Time; truss them cross-legged as you do a Snipe, spit them the same Way, but you must gut them, and you must have good Gravy in the Dish thickened with Butter and Toast under them: Serve them up quick. How to dress Ortolans SPIT them Sideways, with a Bay-Leaf between; baste them with Butter, and have fried Crumbs of Bread round the Dish. Dress Quails the same Way. How to stew Giblets. LET them be nicely scalded and picked, break the two Pinion Bones in two, cut the Head in two and cut off the Nostrils; cut the Liver in two, Gizzard in four, and the Neck in two; slip off Skin of the Neck, and make a Pudding with two hard Eggs chopped fine, the Crumb of a French Roll steeped in hot Milk two or three Hours, then mix it with hard Egg, a little Nutmeg, Pepper, Salt, and a little Sage chopped fine, a very little melted Butter, and stir 73 made Plain and Easy. stir it together: Tie one End of the Skin, and fill it with the Ingredients; tie the other End tight, and put all together in the Sauce-pan, with a Quart of good Mutton Broth, a Bundle of sweet Herbs, an Onion, some Whole Pepper, Mace, two or three Cloves tied up loose in a Muslin Rag, and a very little Piece of Lemon-peel; cover them close, and let them stew ’till quite tender; then take a small French Roll toasted Brown on all Sides, and put it into the Sauce-pan, give it a shake, and let it stew ’till there is just Gravy enough to eat with them, then take out the Onion, sweet Herbs and Spice, lay the Roll in the Middle, the Giblets round, the Pudding cut in Slices and laid round, and then pour the Sauce over all. Another Way. TAKE the Giblets clean picked and washed, the Feet skinned, and Bill cut off, the Head cut in two, the Pinion Bones broke into two, the Liver cut in two, the Gizzard cut into four, the Pipe pulled out of the Neck, the Neck cut in two: Put them into a Pipkin with half a Pint of Water, some Whole Pepper, Black and White, a Blade of Mace, a little Sprig of Thyme, a small Onion, and a little Crust of Bread; then cover them close, and set them on a very slow Fire. Wood Embers is best. Let them stew ’till they are quite tender, then take out the Herbs and Onions, and pour them into a little Dish. Season them with Salt. To dress a Wild Duck the best Way. FIRST half roast it, then lay It in a Dish, carve it, but leave the Joints hanging together; throw a little Pepper and Salt, and squeeze the Juice of a Le- mon over it, turn it on the Breast, and press it hard with a Plate, then add to it its own Gravy, and two or three Spoonfuls of good Gravy; cover it close with E another 74 The whole Art of COOKERY another Dish, and set it over a Stove ten Minutes, then send it to Table hot in the Dish it was done in, and garnish with Lemon. You may add a little red Wine, and a Shalot cut small, if you like it, but it is apt to make the Duck eat hard, unless you first heat the Wine and pour it in just as it is done. A pretty Way of stewing Chickens. TAKE two fine Chickens, half boil them, then take them up in a Pewter or Silver Dish, if you have one; cut up your Fowls, and separate all the Joint-Bones one from another, and then take out the Breast-Bones. If there is not Liquor enough from the Fowls add a few Spoonfuls of the Water they were boiled in, put in a Blade of Mace, and a little Salt; cover it close with another Dish, set it over a Stove or Chaffing-dish of Coals, let it stew ’till the Chickens are enough, and then send them hot to the Table in the same Dish they were stewed in. This is a very pretty Dish for any sick Person, or for a lying-in Lady. For Change it is better than Butter, and the Sauce is very agreeable and pretty. N. B. You may do Rabbits, Partridges, or Moor Game this Way. How to roast Tripe. CUT your Tripe in two square Pieces, somewhat long, have a Force-meat made of Crumbs of Bread, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, sweet Herbs, Lemon- peel, and the Yolks of Eggs mixt all together; spread it on the fat Side of the Tripe, and lay the other fat Side next it; then roll it as light as you can, and tie it with a Packthread; spit it, roast it, and baste it with Butter; when roasted lay it in your Dish, and for Sauce melt some Butter, and add what dropped from the Tripe. Boil it together, and garnish with Raspings. How 75 made Plain and Easy. How to roast a Ham or Gammon. TAKE off the Swerd, or what we call the Skin, or Rind, and lay it in luke-warm Water for two or three Hours; then lay it in a Pan, pour upon it a Quart of Canary, and let it steep in it for ten or twelve Hours. When you have spitted it, put some Sheets of white Paper over the fat Side, pour the Canary it was soaked in into the Dripping-pan, and baste it with it all the Time it is roasting; when it is roasted enough pull off the Paper, and drudge it well with Crumbed Bread and Parsley shred fine; make the Fire brisk, and Brown it well. If you eat it hot, garnish it with Raspings of Bread; if cold, serve it on a clean Napkin, and garnish it with Green Parsley for a Second Course. To dress Cod’s Zoons. LAY them in Water all Night, and then boil them; if they be Salt shift them once in the boiling, and when they are tender cut them in long Pieces; Dress them up with Eggs as you do Salt Fish, take one or two of them and cut into square Pieces, dip them in Egg and fry them to lay round your Dish. It is proper to lay about any other Dish. To dress a Cod’s Head. TAKE a Cod’s Head, wash and clean it, take out the Gills, cut it open, and make it to lie flat; (if you have not Conveniency of boiling it you may do it in an Oven, and it will be as well or better) put it into a Copper Dish, or Earthen one, lie upon it a little Butter, Salt, and Flour, and when it is enough take off the Skin. Sauce for the Cod’s Head. TAKE a white Gravy, about a Pint of Oisters or Cockles, a little shred Lemon-peel, two or three Spoonfuls of white Wine, and about half a E2 Pound 76 The whole Art of COOKERY Pound of Butter thickened with Flour, and put it into your Boat or Bason. Another Sauce for a Cod’s Head. TAKE a Pint of good Gravy, a Lobster or Crab, which you can get, dress and put it into your Gravy with a little Butter, Juice of Lemon, shred Lemon-peel, and a few Shrimps if you have them; thicken it with a little Flour, and put it into your Bason, set the Oisters on one Side of the Dish and this on the other; lay round the Head boiled Whit- ings, or any fried Fish; pour over your Head a little melted Butter. Garnish your Dish with Horse-radish, Slices of Lemon and Pickles. To stew Carp or Tench. TAKE your Carp or Tench and wash them; scale the Carp but not the Tench; when you have cleaned them wipe them with a Cloth, and fry them in a Frying-pan with a little Butter to harden the Skin; before you put them into the Stew-pan, put to them a little good Gravy, the Quantity will be ac- cording to the Largeness of your Fish, with a Jill of red Wine, three or four Anchovies at least, a little shred Lemon-peel, a Blade or two of Mace, let all stew together, ’till your Carp be enough, over a slow Fire; when it is enough take Part of the Liquor, put to it half a Pound of Butter, and thicken it with a little Flour; so serve them up. Garnish your Dish with crisp Parsley, Slices of Lemon and Pickles. If you have not the Convenience of stewing them, you may broil them before a Fire, only adding the same Sauce. Sauce for a boiled Salmon or Turbot. TAKE a little mild white Gravy, two or three An- chovies, a Spoonful of Oister or Cockle Pickle, a little shred Lemon-peel, half a Pound of Butter, a little 77 made Plain and Easy. little Parsley and Fennel shred small, and a little Juice of Lemon, but not too much, for fear it should take off the Sweetness. Solomon Gundie to eat in Lent. TAKE five or six white Herrings, lay them in Wa- ter all Night, boil them as soft as you would do for Eating, and shift them in the boiling to take out the Saltness; when they are boiled take the Fish from the Bone, and mind you don't break the Bone in Pieces, leaving on the Head and Tail; take the while Part of the Herrings, a Quarter of a Pound of An- chovies, a large Apple, a little Onion shred fine, or Shalot, and a little Lemon-peel, fined them all toge- ther, and lay them over the Bones on both Sides, in the Shape of a Herring; then take off the Peel of a Lemon very thin, and cut it in long Bits, just as it will reach over the Herrings; you must lie this Peel over every Herring pretty thick. Garnish your Dish with a few pickled Oisters, Capers, and Mushrooms if you have any; so serve them up. Solomon Gundie another Way. TAKE the white Part of a Turkey, or other Fowl, if you have neither, take a little white Veal and mince it pretty small; take a little hang Beef or Tongues, scrape them very fine, a few shred Capers, and the Yolks of four or five Eggs shred small; take a China or Delf Dish, and lie a Plate in it with the wrong Side up; so lay on your Meat and other In- gredients, all single in Quarters, one to answer ano- ther; set in the Middle a large Lemon or Mango, and lay round your Dish Anchovies in Lumps, pickled Oisters or Cockles, and a few pickled Mushrooms, slices of Lemon and Capers; so serve it up. This is proper for a Side-dish either at Noon or Night. E3 To 78 The whole Art of COOKERY To pot Mushrooms. TAKE the largest Mushrooms, scrape and clean them, put them into your Pan with a Lump of Butter, and a little Salt, let them stew over a slow Fire whilst they are enough, then put to them a little Mace and Whole Pepper; dry them with a Cloth, and put them down into a Pot as close as you can; and as you lay them down, sprinkle in a little Salt and Mace; when they are cold cover them over with But- ter. When you use them toss them up with Gravy, a few Bread-Crumbs and Butter: Do not make your Pot over large, but rather put them into two Pots; they will keep the better if you take the Gravy from them when they are stewed. They are good for Fish Sauce, or any other whilst they are fresh. To Stew Mushrooms. TAKE Mushrooms, and clean them, the Buttons you may wash, but the Flaps you must peel both inside and out: When you have cleaned them, pick out the little ones for pickling, and cut the rest in Pieces for stewing: Wash them and put them into a little Water, give them a boil and it will take off the Faintness, so drain from them all the Water; then put them into a Pan with a Lump of Butter, a little shred Mace, Pepper and Salt to your Taste; (putting to them a little Water) hang them over a slow Fire for half an Hour; and when they are enough thicken them with a little Flour. They are fine Sauce for a roast Fowl, for roast Beef, Beef Steaks, Mutton Chops, &c.&c. To make Oister Loaves. TAKE half a Dozen French Loaves, rasp them and make a Hole at the Top, take out all the Crumbs, and fry them in Butter ’till they be Crisp: When 79 made Plain and Easy. When your Oisters are stewed, put them into your Loaves, cover them up before the Fire to keep hot Whilst you want them; so serve them up. You may make Cockle Loaves or Mushroom Loaves the same Way. To make Plumb Porridge. PLUMB Porridge is an old English Dish, and de- serves to be remembered when thus prepared: Take two Shanks of Beef, and ten Quarts of Water, let them boil over a slow Fire ’till they be tender, and when the Broth is strong, strain it out; wipe the Pot and put in the Broth again; cut a two-penny Loaf in thin Slices, taking off the Top and Bottom; put some of the Liquor to it, cover it up and let it stand for a Quar- ter of an Hour, then let it boil a Quarter of an Hour longer. Put in four Pounds of Currants, and let them boil a little; and then add two Pounds of Raisins, and two Pounds of Prunes; Let them boil ’till they swell; then put in a Quarter of an Ounce of Mace, and a few Cloves beat fine; mix it with a little Water, and put it into your Pot, with a Pound of Sugar; a little salt, a Quart or better of red Wine, and the Juice of two or three Lemons; thicken it with Sagoo in- stead of Bread; so put it in earthen Pots, and keep it for Use. To make Pollony Sausages. TAKE part of a Leg of Pork or Veal, pick it clean from the Skins and Fat; put to every Pound of lean Meat a Pound of Beef-Suet, picked from the skins; shred the Meat and Suet separate, and very fine; mix them well together, with a Handful of green Sage shred very small; season it with Pepper and Salt, mix it Well, press it down hard in an earthen Pot, and keep it for Use. E4 When 80 The whole Art of COOKERY When you use them roll them up with as much Egg as will make them roll smooth. In rolling them up, make them about the length of your Finger, and as thick as two Fingers; fry them in Butter, which must be boiled hot before you can put them in, and keep them rolling about in the Pan ’till they are enough. An excellent Way to make Vinegar, by which a Person has lately acquired a good Fortune. PUT a Pound of coarse Sugar to every Gallon of Water, let it boil, and keep scumming it as long as any scum will arise; it must afterwards be put in Tubs to cool like Beer; and when it is cold as Beer to Work, toast a large Piece of Bread, and rub it all over with Yeast, put this into a stout Iron-bound painted Calk, which must be set in the Sun, and in such a Place as it can remain in. If made in March, it will be fit for Use about July: It will be best to draw it off into Bottles, and keep it for Use. This is the strongest of Vinegar, and will do very well for Pickling, with a third Part of cold Spring Water to it, and be full four enough; it will likewise when used alone, keep most Sorts of Pickles without boiling: nor indeed do I ever use it hot, unless with my Green Pickles. To keep Green Pease ’till Christmas. SHELL what Quantity you please of young Pease, put them in the Pot when the Water boils, and let them have a gentle Boil; pour them into a Cul- lander, and then spread a Cloth on a Table, and put them on that, and dry them well in it; have Bottles ready dried, and fill them to the Neck, and pour over them melted Mutton Fat, and Cork them, down very close, that no Air can come at them in your Cellar; and when you use them put them into boiling Water, with 81 made Plain and Easy. with a good Piece of Butter; and when they are enough, drain and Butter them. To pitchcock Eels in the best manner. TAKE a fine large Silver Eel that is alive; skin it, slit it down the Back, and cut it across into square Pieces. Have ready a few Bread Crumbs grated fine, mix with them a few sweet Herbs, a little Nutmeg grated, Pepper and Salt: Rub your Eels with the Yolks of Eggs, and immediately clap it upon the Bread-Crumbs and Seasoning as you do Veal Cutlets, and then broil them to a fine Brown upon a Gridiron over a Charcoal Fire. For Sauce have strong Gravy in a Bason, and melted Butter in another. N. B. The best Way of broiling a Pitchcock Eel, to keep it sweet, is to butter a Sheet of writing Paper very well all over, and then turn up the Sides and Pin the Corners, which makes it like a Dripping-pan; lay this upon the Gridiron, and the Pieces of Eel upon it: The Butter, if there is no Blaze, will pre- vent the Paper from taking Fire; and the Paper pre- vents the Fat of the Eel from falling into the Fire to cause a Smoke, which gives a very disagreeable Taste. This Method is the best for all kinds of broiling, whe- ther it be Veal Cutlets, or any other Thing, as it pre- serves them from Smoke. Many People only scour their Eels with Salt, instead of skinning them, which is just as well; for the Skin dries and is not discovered in the Eating. To broil Eels. HAVE them alive, scour them well with Salt, and and cut them down the Back without skinning them: and cut them in square Pieces, sprinkle them E5 over 82 The whole Art of COOKERY over with Salt and a Dust of Pepper; dip them in melted Butter, and broil them brown. Serve them up with melted Butter, or Gravy. Rules to be observed in making PUDDINGS. IT is a great Nicety in the making of Batter Pud- dings to have them smooth and free from Lumps; the best Way to do this is, first to mix the Flour well with a little Milk, ’till it is all wetted, and then add more by Degrees, to make it of a proper Thickness, and add your other Ingredients; but if it is a plain Pudding, the easiest Method of freeing it from any Inconvenience of this Kind, is to put it through a Hair Sieve, which takes out both the Lumps and the Treadles of the Eggs. In boiling Puddings take great Care that your Cloth be clean and free from the Taste of Soap; dip it in hot Water when you are to use it, and then flour it well. If it is a Batter Pud- ding you are going to boil, tie it tight in the Cloth; if a Bread Pudding, give it Room. Move your Pud- dings frequently in the Pot to prevent their sticking to; and be sure the Water boils when you put them in. If you boil them in China Dishes or Wooden Bowls, you must butter them in the Inside; and you must also butter the Pan or Dish before you put in a Pudding to bake. In breaking Eggs it is best to do them one by one into a Bason, and not to break them all into a Bowl together, because if you should meet with a bad one, in that Case the whole is spoiled; and the best Way is to strain them through a Cloth to take out the Treadles. To make a quaking Pudding. TAKE eight Eggs and beat them very well, put to them three Spoonfuls of fine Flour, a little Salt, three half Pints of Cream, and boil it with a Stick of Cinnamon and a Blade of Mace; when it is cold mix it 83 made Plain and Easy. it with your Eggs and Flour, butter your Cloth, and do not give it over much room in your Cloth; About half an Hour will boil it. You must turn it in the boiling or the Flour will settle. Serve it up with a little melted Butter. A Hunting Pudding. TAKE a Pound of fine Flour, a Pound of Beef Suet shred fine, three Quarters of a Pound of Currants well cleaned, a Quarter of a Pound of Raisins stoned and shred, five Eggs, a little Lemon-peel shred fine, half a Nutmeg grated, half a Pint of Cream, a little Salt, about two Spoonfuls of Sugar, and a little Brandy; mix all well together, and tie it up tight in your Cloth; it will take two Hours boiling. You must have a little white Wine and Butter for your Sauce. A Calves Foot Pudding. TAKE two Calves Feet, when they are cleaned boil them as you would for Eating; take out all the Bones; when they are cold shred them in a wooden Bowl as small as Bread-Crumbs; then take the Crumb of a Penny Loaf, three Quarters of a Pound of Beef Suet Shred fine, and grate in half a Nutmeg; take half a Pound of Currants well washed, half a Pound Raisins stoned and shred, half a Pound of Sugar, six Eggs, and a little Salt; mix them all together very well, with as much Cream as will wet them, so but- ter your Cloth and tie it up tight: It will take two Hours boiling. You must have a little Sack and Butter for the Sauce; and you may if you please stick it with a little Orange, and serve it up. A Sagoo Pudding. TAKE three or four Ounces of Sagoo, and wash it in two or three Waters, set it on to boil in a Pint of Water, when you think it is enough take it up, set 84 The whole Art Of COOKERY set it to cool, and take half of a candid Lemon shred fine, grate in half of a Nutmeg, mix two Ounces of Jordan Almonds blanched; grate in three Ounces of Bisket if you have it, if not a few Bread-Crumbs grated, with a little Rose-Water and half a Pint of Cream; then take six Eggs, leave out two of the Whites, beat them with a Spoonful or two of Sack, and put them to your Sagoo, with about half a Pound of clarified Butter; mix them all together, then sweeten it with fine Sugar, and put in a little Salt: Bake it in a Dish with a little Puff-paste about the Dish Edge. When you serve it up you may stick a little Citron or candid Orange, or any Sweet-meats you please. To make a Bread Pudding. TAKE three half Pints of Milk, when boiled, a penny Loaf sliced thin, cut off the out Crust, put on the boiling Milk, let it stand close covered ’till it be cold, and beat it very well ’till all the Lumps be broke: Take five Eggs beat very well, grate in a little Nutmeg, shred some Lemon-peel, and a Quarter of a Pound of Butter or Beef-suet, with as much Sugar as will sweeten it; and Currants as many as you please; let them be well cleaned; so put them into your Dish, and bake or boil it. A Marrow Pudding. TAKE a penny Loaf, pare off the Outside, then cut one half in thin Slices; take the Marrow of two Bones, half a Pound of Currants well cleaned, shred your Marrow, and sprinkle a little Marrow and Currants over the Dish; if you have not Marrow enough you may add to it a little Beef-suet shred fine: Take five Eggs and beat them very well, put to them a Pint and a half of Milk, grate in half a Nutmeg, and sweeten it to your Taste; mix all together, pour it 85 made Plain and Easy. it over your Pudding, and save a little Marrow to sprinkle over the Top of your Pudding: When you send it to the Oven lay a Puff-paste round the Edge of the Dish. A Carrot Pudding. TAKE three or four clear red Carrots, boil and peel them; beat the red Part of the Carrot very fine in a Marble Mortar; put to it the Crumb of a Penny Loaf, six Eggs, half a Pound of clarified Butter, two or three Spoonfuls of Rose Water, and a little Lemon-peel shred fine; grate in a little Nutmeg, mix them well together, and bake it with a Puff-paste found your Dish. Have a little white Wine, Butter and Sugar, for the Sauce. To make a whole Rice Pudding. WHOLE Rice is much preferable to ground Rice when properly managed; but the Difficulty has always been to prevent it’s burning to the Pan, and therefore our Cooks have generally left the Rice hard for want of being sufficiently creed before it is made into the Pudding. It has been usual to boil the Rice in Milk, which always burns to the Sauce- Pan more or less, take what Care you will: Here lays the Error. The Method is This: Take half a Pound of Rice, pick it clean from Husks, and put it upon a slow Fire, with a Pint of soft Water; let it simmer ’till it swells and sucks up the Water; then add a Pint more, stir it now and then, and let it still simmer very gently: By the Time that the Rice has sucked up this Water it will be swelled prodigiously, and upon tasting it, if you do not find it quite soft, add a little more Water, and let it stand ’till it is soft. Then take it off, let it stand ’till it is cold, and add to five Eggs well beaten, a Quart of New Milk, half a Pound of Butter, half a Nutmeg grated, and half a Pound of Sugar, with a little Salt. Mix all well together, 86 The whole Art of COOKERY together, put a Rim of Puff-paste round your Dish, butter the Dish, and pour it in. Bake it in a slow Oven, and send melted Butter to Table in a Bason and Sugar in a Castor. By adding Fruit and candid Lemon or Orange to the above, you will have a rich Rice Padding. A ground Rice Pudding. TAKE half a Pound of ground Rice, half boil it in a Quart of Milk, when it is cold put to it five Eggs well beat, half a Pint of Cream, a little Lemon- peel shred fine, half a Nutmeg grated, half a Pound of Butter, and half a Pound of Sugar; mix them well together, put them into your Dish with a little Salt, and bake it with a Puff-paste round your Dish; Have a little Rose-Water, Butter and Sugar to pour over it. You may prick in it candid Lemon or Citron if you please. Half of the above Quantity will make a Pudding for a Side Dish. A Potatoe Pudding. TAKE three or four large Potatoes, boil them as you would do for Eating; beat them with a little Rose-Water and a Glass of Sack in a Marble Mortar, put to them half a Pound of Sugar, six Eggs, half a Pound of melted Butter, halt a Pound of Currants well cleaned, a little shred Lemon-peel, and candid Orange, mix all together and serve it up. To make Apple Dumplins. TAKE Half a Dozen Codlins, or any other good Apples, pare and core them, make a little cold Butter Paste, and roll it up about the Thickness of your Finger, so lap round every Apple, and tie them single in a fine Cloth, boil them in a little Salt and Water, and let the Water boil before you put them in; an Hour will boil them; you must have for Sauce a little white 87 made Plain and Easy. white Wine and Butter; grate some Sugar round the Dish serve them up. An Apple Puddings. TAKE half a Dozen large Codlins, or Pippins, roast them and take out the Pulp; take eight Eggs, (leave out six of the Whites) half a Pound of fine Powder Sugar, beat your Eggs and Sugar well and put to them the Pulp of your Apples, half a Pound of clarified Butter, a little Lemon-peel shred fine, a Handful of Bread-Crumbs or Bisket, four Ounces of candid Orange or Citron, and bake it a thin Paste under it. To make Apple Fritters. TAKE four Eggs and beat them very well, put to them four Spoonfuls of fine Flour, a little Milk, Quarter of a Pound of Sugar, a little Nutmeg Salt; so beat them very well together; you must not make it very thin, if you do it will not stick to the Apple; take a middling Apple and pare it, cut out the Core, and cut the rest in round Slices about the Thickness of a Shilling; (you may take out the Core after you have cut it with your Thimble) have ready a little Lard in a Stew-pan; or any other deep Pan; then take your Apple every Slice single, and dip it into your Batter, let your Lard be very hot, so drop them in: You must keep them turning whilst enough, and mind that they be not over Brown: As you take them out lay them on a Pewter Dish before the Fire whist you have done; have a little white Wine, Butter and Sugar for the Sauce; grate over them a little Loaf Sugar and serve them up. An Orange Pudding. TAKE three large Seville Oranges, the clearest Kind you can get, grate off all the Out-rhind; take eight Eggs, (leave out six of the Whites) Half a Pound 88 The whole Art of COOKERY Pound of double refined Sugar, beat and put it to your Eggs, then beat them both together for half an Hour: Take three Ounces of sweet Almonds blanched, beat them with a Spoonful or two of fair Water to keep them from oiling, half a Pound of Butter, melt it without Water, and the Juice of two Oranges, then put in the Rasping of your Oranges, and mix all to- gether: Lay a thin Paste over your Dish and bake it, but not in too hot an Oven. An Orange Pudding another Way. TAKE half a Pound of candid Oranges, cut them in thin Slices, and beat them in a Marble Mortar to a Pulp; take six Eggs, (leave out half of the Whites) half a Pound of Butter, and the Juice of one Orange; mix them together, and sweeten it with fine powder Sugar; then bake it with thin Paste under it. A baked Tansey. TAKE a stale penny Loaf, cut off the out Crust, slice it very thin, and put to it as much hot Milk as will wet it; take six Eggs, beat them very well, grate in half a Nutmeg, a little shred Lemon-peel, half a Pound of clarified Butter, half a Pound of Su- gar, and a little Salt; mix them well together. To green your Tansey. Take a Handful or two of Spinach, a Handful of Tansey, a Handful of Sorrel, clean them and beat them in a Marble Mortar, or grind it as you would do Green Sauce, strain it through a Linnen Cloth into a Bason, and put in your Tansey as much of the Juice as will green it, pour over for the Sauce a little white Wine, Butter and Sugar; lay a Rim of Paste round your Dish and bake it. When you serve it up cut a Seville Orange in Quarters, and lay it round the Edge of the Dish. To 89 made Plain and Easy. To make a boiled Tansey. Take a stale penny Loaf, cut off the out Crust, slice it thin, put to it as much hot Cream as will wet it, six Eggs well beaten, a little shred Lemon- peel, grate in a little Nutmeg, and a little Salt; green it as you did your baked Tansey, so tie it up in a Cloth and boil it: It will take an Hour and a Quarter boil- ing. When you dish it up stick it with candid Orange, and lay a Seville Orange cut in Quarters round the Dish. Serve it up with melted Butter. A Third Way to make a Tansey. TAKE a Pint of Cream, some Biskets without seeds, two or three Spoonfuls of fine Flour, nine Eggs, leaving out two of the Whites, some Nutmeg, and Orange-Flower-Water, a little Juice of Tansey and Spinach, put it into a Pan ’till it be pretty thick, then fry or bake it, if fried take Care that you do not let it be over brown. Garnish with Orange and Sugar, so serve it up. To make Rice Pancakes. TAKE half a Pound of Rice, wash and pick it clean, cree it in fair Water ’till it be a Jelly, when it is cold take a Pint of Cream and the Yolks of four Eggs, beat them very well together, and put them to the Rice, with grated Nutmeg and some Salt; then Put in half a Pound of Butter, and as much Flour as will make it thick enough to fry, with as little Butter as you can. To make Fruit Fritters. TAKE a penny Loaf, cut oft' the out Crust, slice it, put to it as much hot Milk as will wet it; beat five or six Eggs, put to them a Quarter of a Pound of Currants well cleaned, and a little candid Orange shred fine, so mix them well together; drop them with a Spoon into a Stew-pan in clarified Butter; have a little 90 The whole Art of COOKERY a little white Wine, Butter and Sugar for your Sauce; put it into a China Bason, lay your Fritters round, grate a little Sugar over them, and serve them up. To make white Hog Puddings in Skins. TAKE half a Pound of Rice, cree it in Milk while it be soft, when it is creed put it into a Cullander to drain; take a penny Loaf, cut off the out Crust, then cut it in thin Slices, scald it in a little Milk, but do not make it over wet; take six Eggs and beat them very well, a Pound of Currants well cleaned, a Pound of Beef-Suet shred fine, two or three Spoonfuls of Rose-Water, half a Pound of powder Sugar, a little Salt, a Quarter of an Ounce of Mace, a large Nut- meg grated, and a small Stick of Cinnamon; beat them together, mix them very well, and put them into the Skins; if you find it be too thick put to it a little Cream: You may boil them near half an Hour; it will make them keep the better. To make black Hog Puddings in Skins. OF whole Oatmeal take two Quarts, pick it and half boil it, give it room in your Cloth, (you must do it the Day before you use it) put it into the Blood while it is warm, with a Handful of Salt; stir it very well; Beat eight or nine Eggs in about a Pint of Cream, and a Quart of Bread-Crumbs, a Handful or two of Meal dressed through a Hair Sieve, if you have it, if not put in Wheat-Flour: To this Quan- tity you may put an Ounce of Jamaica Pepper, an Ounce of Black Pepper, a large Nutmeg, and a little more Salt; and Sweet-Marjoram and Thyme, if they be Green; Mix them well together, and if it be too Thick put to it a little Milk. Take four Pounds of Beef-Suet, and four Pounds of Lard, skin and cut it in thin Pieces, put it into your Blood by Handfuls, as you fill your Puddings: When they are filled and tied 91 made Plain and Easy. tied prick them with a Pin, it will keep them from bursting in the boiling; (you must boil them twice) cover them close and it will make them Black. To make plain Fruit Dumplins. TAKE as much Flour as you would have Dumplins in Quantity, put to it a Spoonful of Sugar, a little Salt, a little Nutmeg, a Spoonful of light Yeast, and half a Pound of Currants well washed and cleaned; so knead them the Stiffness you do a common Dum- plin: You must have white Wine, Sugar and Butter for Sauce. You may boil them either in a Cloth or without; so serve them up. To make a Gooseberry Pudding. PICK a Quart of green Gooseberries, coddle, bruise and rub them through a Hair Sieve to take out the Pulp; take six Spoonfuls of the Pulp, six Eggs, three Quarters of a Pound of Sugar, half a Pound of clari- fied Butter, a little Lemon-peel shred fine, a Handful of Bread-Crumbs or Biskets, a Spoonful of Rose-Wa- ter or Orange-Flower-Water; mix these well together, and bake it with Paste round the Dish; you may add Sweetmeats if you please. To make Oxford Puddings; A very curious Dish, and known at that famous University by the Name of New College Puddings. TAKE the Crumb of two penny Loaves grated small, half a Pound of nice Beef-Suet shred fine, six Ounces of Currants picked clean, washed, and plumped; an Ounce of Citron shred small, half a Nutmeg grated, six Eggs both Yolks and Whites, and Sugar to your Taste. Mix these Ingredients well together, and make them up in the Size and Shape of a Turkey's Egg. Put half a Pound of Butter in a clean Stew-pan, set it over a Stove, put in the Pud- dings and let them fry ’till they are enough, and of a dark 92 The whole Art of COOKERY dark brown, turning them three or four Times in the doing. Put them in a Dish, dredge Sugar, upon them, and round the Dish, and send up melted Butter, with a Jill of Sack in it, for Sauce. N. B. The Plumping of Currants is done by pour- ing a little boiling Water upon them for a few Minutes, and then laying them upon a dry Cloth before the Fire; and this Method is best for all Fruit Puddings, as it not only makes the Currants look better, but also cleans them from all Filth. In making New College Puddings your Dish will look the better if you make one of them Square, or in any other Form to lay in the Middle, and so put the rest round it. To make a Calves Foot Pudding. TAKE of Calves Feet one Pound minced very fine, the Fat and the Brown to be taken out; a Pound and a hall of Suet, pick off all the Skin and shred it small, six Eggs, but only half the Whites; beat them well, the Crumb of a Halfpenny Roll grated, a Pound of Currants clean picked, and washed and rubbed in a Cloth, Milk, as much as will moisten it with the Eggs, a Handful of Flour, a little Salt, Nutmeg and Sugar, to season it to your Taste. Boil it nine Hours with your Meat; when it is done, lay it in your Dish, and pour melted Butter over it. It is very good with white Wine and Sugar in the Butter. A boiled Suet Pudding. TAKE a Quart of Milk, a Pound of Flour, a Pound of Suet shred small, four Eggs, two Spoonfuls of beaten Ginger, a Tea Spoonful of Salt; mix the Eggs and Flour with a Pint of the Milk very thick, and the Seasoning; mix in the rest of the Milk and the Suet- Let your Batter be pretty thick, and boil it two Hours. A York- 93 made Plain and Easy. A Yorkshire Pudding. TAKE a Quart of Milk, four Eggs, and a little Salt; make it up into a Batter with Flour, like a Pancake Batter. You must have a good Piece of Meat at the Fire, take a Stew-pan and put some Dripping in, set it on the Fire; when it boils, pour your Pudding; let it bake on the Fire ’till you think it is high enough, then turn a Plate upside-down in the Dripping-pan, that the Dripping may not be blacked; set your Stew-pan on it under your Meat, and let the Dripping drop on the Pudding, and the Heat of the Fire come to it, to make it of a fine Brown. When your Meat is done and sent to Table, drain all the Fat from your Pudding, and set it on the Fire again to dry a little; then slide it as dry as you can into a Dish, melt some Butter, and pour into a Cup and set in the Middle of the Pudding. It is an exceeding good Pudding; the Gravy of the Meat eats Well with it. A Steak Pudding. MAKE a good Paste, with Suet shred fine and Flour, and mix it up with cold Water. Season it with a little Salt, and make a pretty stiff Crust; about two Pounds of Suet, to a Quarter of a Peck of Flour. Let your Steaks be either Beef or Mutton, well seasoned with Pepper and Salt; make it up as you do an Apple-pudding, tie it in a Cloth, and put it into the Water boiling. If it be a large Pudding, it will take five Hours; if a small one, three Hours. This is the best Crust for an Apple-pudding. Pigeons eat well this Way. Suet Dumplings. TAKE a Pint of Milk, four Eggs, a Pound of Suet, and a Pound of Currants; two Tea Spoonfuls of Salt, and three of Ginger; first take Half the Milk, and mix 94 The whole Art of COOKERY mix it like a thick Batter, then put in the Eggs, and the Salt and Ginger, then the rest of the Milk by De- grees, with the Suet and Currants, and Flour to make it like a light Paste. When the Water boils, make them in Rolls as big as a large Turkey’s Egg, with a little Flour; then flat them, and throw them into boiling Water. Move them softly, that they don't stick together, keep the Water boiling all the Time, and half and Hour will boil them. To make Strawberry and Rasberry Fool. SQUEEZE and strain a Pint of Strawberries, take the Juice, with a Spoonful of Orange Water, and put to it six Ounces of fine Sugar, and boil it over the Fire; then take a Pint of Cream and boil it, mix them all well together, and heat them over the Fire, but not to boil, if it do it will curdle; stir it ’till it be cold, put it into your Bason and keep it for Use. Gooseberry Fool. THIS is made in the same Manner as Rasberry Fool, only by coddling green Gooseberries, and rub- bing the Pulp thro’ a Hair Sieve with the Back of a Spoon, and sweetening it to your Taste. To make an Almond Pudding. BEAT a Pound of sweet Almonds as fine as possible, with three Spoonfuls of Rose-Water, and a Jill of Sack or white Wine, and mix in half a Pound of fresh Butter melted, with five Yolks of Eggs and two Whites, a Quart of Cream, a Quarter of a Pound of Sugar, half a Nutmeg grated, one Spoonful of Flour and three Spoonfuls of Crumbs of Bread; mix all well together, and boil it. It will take half an Hour boiling. Millet 95 made Plain and Easy. Millet Pudding. YOU must get half a Pound of Millet-Seed, and after it is washed and picked clean, put to it half a Pound of Sugar, a whole Nutmeg grated, and three Quarts of Milk. When you have mixed all well to- gether, break in half a Pound of fresh Butter; butter your Dish, pour it in, and bake it. To make a Batter Pudding. TAKE a Quart of Milk, beat up six Eggs, half the Whites, mix with them six Spoonfuls of Flour, a Tea Spoonful of Salt, and one of beaten Ginger; then mix all together, boil it an Hour and a Quarter, and pour melted Butter over it. You may Put in eight Eggs, if you have plenty, and for Change, half a Pound of Prunes or Currants. To make a Bread and Butter Pudding. CUT a penny Loaf into thin Slices of Bread and Butter, as you do for Tea; butter your Dish as you cut them; lay Slices all over the Dish, then shred Currants clean washed and picked, then a Row of Bread and Butter, then a few Currants, and so on ’till all your Bread and Butter is in: Then take a Pint of Milk, beatup four Eggs, a little Salt, and half a Nut- meg grated; mix all together with Sugar to your Taste; pour this over the Bread, and bake it half an Hour. A Puff-paste under does best. You may put in two spoonfuls of Rose-Water. To make a Cauliflower Pudding. BOlL the Flowers in Milk, take the Tops and lay them in a Dish, then take three Jills of Cream, the Yolks of eight Eggs, and the Whites of two, season it with Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Mace, Sugar, Sack or Orange-Flower-Water; beat all well toge- ther; then pour it over the Cauliflower, put it into the 96 The whole Art of COOKERY the Oven, bake it as you would a Custard, and grate Sugar over it when it comes from the Oven. Take Sugar, Sack, and Butter for Sauce. An excellent Paste for Tarts. JUST as you would have Paste in Quantity; take the Yolks of five or six Eggs, put to them a Pound of Batter; work the Butter with your Hand, whilst it take up all the Eggs; then take some fine Flour and work it with your Butter whilst it comes to a Paste; put in about two Spoonfuls of Loaf Sugar beat and sifted, and about half a Jill of Water; when you have wrought it well together it is fit for Use. This is a Paste that seldom runs if it be even rolled; roll it thin, but let your Lids be thinner than your Bottoms; When you have made your Tarts, prick them over with a Pin to keep them from blistering; when you are going to put them into the Oven, wet them over with a Feather dipt in fair Water, and grate over them a little double refined Loaf Sugar, it will Ice them; but don't let them be baked in a hot Oven. Another Way to make Paste for Tarts. RUB a Quarter of a Pound of Butter into a Pint Flour, beat two Eggs with a Spoonful of double refined Sugar, and two or three Spoonfuls of Cream to make it into a Paste; work it as little as you can, roll it out thin; butter your Tins, dust on some Flour, then lay in your Paste, and do not fill them too full. To make a Shell Paste. TAKE half a Pound of fine Flour, and a Quarter of a Pound of Butter, the Yolks of two Eggs and one White, and two Ounces of Sugar finely sifted; mix all these together with a little Water, and roll it very thin whilst you can see through it; When you Lid 97 made Plain and Easy. Lid your Tarts, prick them to keep them from Blister- ing; make sure to roll them even, and when you bake them Ice them. A short Paste for Tarts. TAKE a Pound of Flour, and rub it very small; three Quarters of a Pound of Butter, rub it as small as the Flour; put to it three Spoonfuls of Loaf Sugar beat and sifted, and the Yolks of four Eggs very well beaten; put to them a Spoonful or two of Rose- Water and work them into a Paste; then roll them thin, and Ice them over as you did the other, and bake them in a slow Oven. To make a light Paste for a Venison Pasty, or other Pie. HAVE a Quarter of a Peck of fine Flour, or as much as you think you have Occasion for, and of every Quartern of Flour put a Pound and a Quarter Butter; break the third Part of your Butter into the Flour; Then take the Whites of three or four Eggs, beat them very well to a Froth, and put to them as much Water as will work the Meal; do not knead it over Stiff; and then roll in the rest of your Butter; You must roll it five or six Times over at least and sprinkle a little Flour over your Butter every Time you roll it up. Lay it up the cross Way, and it will be fit for Use. To make a Paste for a standing Pie. TAKE a Quartern of Flour or more if you have Occasion, and to every Quartern of Flour put a Pound of Butter and a little Salt; knead it with boiling Water, then work it very well, and let it lie whilst it is cold. This Paste is good enough for a Goose Pie, or any other standing Pie. F A light 98 The whole Art of COOKERY A light Paste for a Dish Pie. BREAK into a Quartern of Flour, a Pound of Butter in large Pieces, knead it very Stiff, handle it as lightly as you can, and roll it once or twice; then it is fit for Use. Puff-Paste. TAKE a Quarter of a Peck of Flour, rub fine half a Pound of Butter, and a little Salt; make it up into a light Paste with cold Water, just stiff enough to work it well up; then roll it out, and stick Pieces of Butter all over, and strew a little Flour; roll it up, and roll it out again; and so do nine or ten Times, ’till you have rolled in a Pound and Half of Butter. This Crust is mostly used for all Sorts of Pies. A Dripping Crust. TAKE a Pound and Half of Beef-dripping, boil it in Water, strain it, then let it stand to be cold, and take off the hard Fat; scrape it, and boil it so four or five Times; then work it well up in three Pounds of Flour, as fine as you can, and make it up into Paste with cold Water. It makes a very fine Crust. A Cold Crust. TO three Pounds of Flour, rub in a Pound and a Half of Butter, break in two Eggs, and make it up with cold Water. A Crust for Custards. TAKE Half a Pound of Flour, six Ounces of Butter, the Yolks of two Eggs, three Spoonfuls of Cream; mix them together, and let them stand a Quarter of an Hour, then work it up and down, and roll it very thin. To make a minc’d Pie of Calf’s Feet. TAKE two or three Calf’s Feet and boil them as you would do for Eating; take out the long Bones, shred them very fine, put to them double their Weight of 99 made Plain and Easy. of Beef-Suet shred fine, and about a Pound of Cur- rants well cleaned, a Quarter of a Pound of candid Orange or Citron, cut in small Pieces, Half a Pound of Sugar, a little Salt, a Quarter of a Pound of Mace, and a large Nutmeg, beat them together, put in a little Juice of Lemon or Verjuice to your Taste, a Glass of Mountain Wine or Sack, which you please, so mix all together; bake them in Puff-paste. Minc'd Pies another Way. TALKE a Pound of the finest seam Tripes you can get, a Pound and a Half of Currants well cleaned, three or four Apples pared and shred very fine, a little green Lemon-peel and Mace shred, a large Nutmeg, a glass of Sack or Brandy, (which you please) Half a Pound of Sugar, a little Salt, so mix them well toge- and fill your Patty-pans, then stick five or six Bits of candid Lemon or Orange in every Patty-pan, cover them, and when baked they are fit for Use. To make Minc'd Pies the best Way. SHRED very fine and chop as SmaLl as possible three Pounds of Beef-Suet; take two Pounds of Raisins stoned, and chopped as fine as possible, two Pounds of Currants nicely picked, washed, rubbed, and dried at the Fire, half a Hundred of fine Pippins, pared, cored, and chopped small, half a Pound of fine Sugar pounded fine, a Quarter of an Ounce of Mace, a Quarter of an Ounce of Cloves, two large Nutmegs, all beat fine; put all together into a great Pan, and mix it well together with half a Pint of Brandy, and half a Pint of Sack; put it down close in a Stone-pot, and it will keep good four Months. when you make your Pies, take a little Dish, some- thing bigger than a Soup-plate, lay a very thin Crust all over it, lay a thin Layer of Meat, and then a thin Layer of Citron cut very thin, then a Layer of Mince F2 Meat, 100 The whole Art of COOKERY Meat, and a thin Layer of Orange-peel cut thin, over that a little Meat, squeeze half the Juice of a fine Seville Orange or Lemon, and pour in three Spoon- fuls of red Wine; lay on your Crust, and bake it nicely: These Pies eat finely cold. If you make them in little Patties, mix your Meat and Sweet Meats accordingly. If you chuse Meat in your Pies, parboil a Neat's Tongue, peel it, and chop the Meat as fine as possible, and mix with the rest; or two Pounds of the Inside of a Surloin of Beef boiled, To make a Pigeon Pie. MAKE a Puff-paste Crust, cover your Dish, let your Pigeons be very nicely picked and cleaned, season them with Pepper and Salt, and put a good Piece of fine fresh Butter with Pepper and Salt in their Bellies; lay them in your Pan, and the Necks, Giz- zards, Livers, Pinions and Hearts lay between, with the Yolk of a hard Egg and a Beef Steak in the Middle; put as much Water as will almost fill the Dish, lay on the Top-crust, and bake it well. To make a Gibblet Pie. TAKE two Pair of Gibblets nicely cleaned, put all but the Livers into a Sauce-pan, with two Quarts of Water, twenty Corns of Whole Pepper, three Blades of Mace, a Bundle of sweet Herbs, and a large Onion; cover them close, and let them stew very softly ’till they are quite tender, then have a good Crust ready, cover your Dish, lay a fine Rump Steak at the Bottom, seasoned with Pepper and Salt; then lay in your Gibblets with the Livers, and strain the Liquor they were stewed in. Season it with Salt, and pour it into your Pie; put on the Lid, and bake it all Hour and a Half. A Beef 101 made Plain and Easy. A Beef Steak Pie. BEAT some fine Rump Steaks with a Rolling-pin, then season them with Pepper and Salt, according your Palate. Make a good Crust, lay in your Steaks, fill your Dish, then pour in as much Water as will half fill the Dish. Put on the Crust, and bake it well. To make a Mutton Pie. TAKE a Loin of Mutton, take off the Skin and Fat of the Inside, cut it into Steaks; season it well with Pepper and Salt to your Palate. Lay it into your Crust, fill it, pour in as much Water as will al- most fill the Dish; then put on the Crust, and bake it well. A savoury Veal Pie. CUT into Pieces a fine Breast of Veal, season it with Pepper and Salt, lay it all into your Crust, boil six or eight Eggs hard, take only the Yolks, put them into the Pie here and there, fill your Dish almost full of Water, put on the Lid, and bake it well. To make Lamb or Veal Pie. FIRST make a good Crust, butter the Dish, and lay in your Bottom and Side-crust; then cut your Meat into small Pieces; season with a very little Salt, some Mace and Nutmeg beat fine, and strewed over; then lay a Layer of Meat, and strew according to your Fancy, some Currants clean washed and picked, a few Raisins stoned, all over the Meat; lay another Layer Meat, put a little Butter at the Top, and a little Water, just enough to bake it and no more. Have ready against it comes out of the Oven, a white Wine Caudle made very sweet, and send it to Table hot. To make a Chicken Pie. MAKE a Puff-paste Crust, take two young Chickens, cut them to Pieces, season them with F3 Pepper 102 The whole Art of COOKERY Pepper, Salt, and a little beaten Mace; and lay a Force- meat made thus round the Side of the Dish: Take half a Pound of Veal, half a Pound of Suet, beat them quite fine in a Marble Mortar, with as many Crumbs of Bread; season it with a very little Pepper, Salt, and an Anchovy with the Liquor; cut the Anchovy to Pieces; a little Lemon-peel cut very fine and shred small, a very little Thyme; mix all together with the Yolk of an Egg; make some into round Balls about twelve, the rest lay round the Dish. Lay in one Chicken over the Bottom of the Dish; take two Sweetbreads, cut them into five or six Pieces, lay them all over, season them with Pepper and Salt, put over them a few Cocks-Combs, if you have them, a Palate boiled tender and cut to Pieces; then lay on the other Part of the Chicken; put half a Pint of Water in, and cover the Pie. Bake it well, and when it comes out of the Oven, fill it with good Gravy, lay on the Crust, and send it to Table. To make a Duck Pie. MAKE a Puff-paste Crust, take two Ducks, scald them and make them very clean, cut off the Feet, the Pinions, the Neck and Head, all clean picked and scalded, with the Gizzards, Livers and Hearts; pick out all the Fat of the Inside, lay a Crust all over the Dish, season the Ducks with Pepper and Salt, In- side and out, lay them in your Dish, and the Gibblets at each End seasoned; put in as much Water as will almost fill the Pie, lay on the Crust, and bake it, but not too much. To make an Oister Pie. TAKE a Pint of the largest. Oisters you can get, clean them very well in their own Liquor, if you have not Liquor enough add to them three or four Spoonfuls of Water; take the Kidney of a Loin of Veal, 103 made Plain and Easy. Veal, cut it in thin Slices, and season it with a little Pepper and Salt, lay the Slices in the Bottom of the Dish, (but there must be no Paste in the Bottom of your Dish) cover them with the Oisters, strew over a little of the Seasoning you did for the Veal; take the Marrow of one or two Bones, lay it over your Oisters; and cover them with Puff-paste; when it is baked take off the Lid, put into it a Spoonful or two of white Wine, shake it up all together, and serve it up. It is proper for a Side-dish, either for Noon or Night. To make a Woodcock Pie. TAKE three or four Brace of Woodcocks, accord- ing as you would have the Pie in Bigness, dress and skewer them as you would do for Roasting; draw them, and season the Inside with a little Pepper, Salt and Mace, but don't wash them; put the Trales into the Belly again, but nothing else, for there is some- thing in them that gives them a more bitter Taste in the baking than in the roasting; when you put them into your Dish lay them with the Breast down- wards, and beat them upon the Breast as flat as you can; you must season them on the Outside as you do the Inside; bake them in Puff-paste, but lay none in the Bottom of the Dish; put to them a Jill of Gravy and a little Butter; you must be very careful your Pie be hot too much baked; when you serve it up, take off the Lid, and turn the Woodcocks wdth the Breast up- wards. You may bake Partridge the same Way. To make a Hare Pie. PARBOIL the Hare, take out all the Bones, and beat the Meat in a Mortar with some fat Pork or new Bacon, then soak it in red Wine all Night, the next Day take it out, season it with Pepper, Salt and F4 Nutmeg, 104 The whole Art of COOKERY Nutmeg, then lay the Backbone into the Middle of the Pie, put the Meat about it with about three Quarters of a Pound of Butter, and bake it in Puff- paste, but lay no Paste in the Bottom of the Dish. To make a Hare Pie another Way. TAKE the Flesh of a Hare after it is skinned, and stiring it; take a Pound of Beef-suet or Marrow shred small, with Sweet-Marjoram, Parsley and Sha- lots; take the Hare, cut it in Pieces, season it with Mace, Pepper, Salt and Nutmeg, then bake it either in cold or hot Paste, and when it is baked open it and put to it some melted Butter. To make Cheese Cakes. TAKE a Gallon of New Milk, make of it a tender Curd, wring the Whey from it, put it into a Ba- son, and break three Quarters of a Pound of Butter into the Curd, then with a clean Hand work the Butter and Curd together ’till all the Butter be melted, and rub it in a Hair Sieve with the Back of a Spoon ’till all be through; then take six Eggs, beat them with a few Spoonfuls of Rose-Water or Sack, put it into your Curd with half a Pound of fine Sugar and a Nut- meg grated; mix them all together with a little Salt, some Currants and Almonds; then make up your Paste of fine Flour, with cold Butter and a little Sugar; roll your Paste very thin, fill your Tins with the Curd, and set them in an Oven; when they are almost enough take them out, then take a Quarter of a Pound of Butter, with a little Rose-Water, and Part of a half Pound of Sugar, let it stand on the Coals ’till the Butter be melted, then pour into each Cake some of it, set them in the Oven again ’till they be brown; so keep them for Use. To 105 made Plain and Easy. To make Lemon Cheese Cakes. BLANCH half a Pound of Almonds, and beat them in a Stone Mortar very fine, with a little Rose- Water; put in eight Eggs, leaving out five of the Whites; take three Quarters of a Pound of Sugar, and three Quarters of a Pound of melted Butter, beat all together, then take three Lemon Skins, boiled tender, the Rind and all, beat them very well, and mix them with the rest, then put them into your Paste, You may make a Lemon Pudding the same Way, only add the Juice of half a Lemon: Before you set them in the Oven, grate over them a little fine Loaf Sugar. To make Almond Puffs. TAKE a Pound of Almonds blanched, and beat them with Orange-Flower-Water, then take a Pound of Sugar, and boil them almost to a Candy Height; put in your Almonds and stir them on the Fire; keep stirring them ’till they be stiff, then take them off the Fire and stir them ’till they be cold; beat them a Quarter of an Hour in a Mortar, putting to them a Pound of Sugar sifted, and a little Lemon-peel grated; make it into a Paste with the Whites of three Eggs, and beat it into a Froth more or less as you think proper; bake them in an Oven almost cold, and keep them for Use. To make an Apple Pie. MAKE a good Puff-paste Crust, lay some round the Sides of the Dish, pare and quarter your Apples, and take out the Cores; lay a Row of Apples thick, throw in half the Sugar you design for your Pie, mince a little Lemon-peel fine, squeeze into and throw a little Lemon over them, then a few Cloves, here and there one, then the rest of your Apples, and the rest of your Sugar. You must sweeten to your F5 Palate, 106 The whole Art of COOKERY Palate, and squeeze a little more Lemon. Boil the Peeling of the Apples and the Cores in some fair Wa- ter, with a Blade of Mace, ’till it is very good; strain it and boil the Syrup with a little Sugar, ’till it is good, and there is but very little; pour it into your Pie; put on your Upper-crust and bake it. You may put in a little Quince or Marmalade, if you please. Thus make a Pear Pie, but don't put in any Quince. You may butter them when they come out of the Oven; or beat up the Yolks of two Eggs and half a Pint of Cream, with a little Nutmeg, sweetened with Sugar: Take off the Lid and pour in the Cream. Cut the Crust in little Three-corner Pieces, and stick about the Pie, and send it to Table. To make a Cherry Pie. MAKE a good Crust, lay a little round the Sides of your Dish, throw Sugar at the Bottom, and lay in your Fruit and Sugar at Top. A few red Cur- rants does well with them; put on your Lid, and bake in a slack Oven. Make a Plumb Pie the same Way, and a Goose- berry Pie. If you would have it red, let it stand a good while in the Oven, after the Bread is drawn. A Custard is very good with the Gooseberry Pie. To make Almond Custards TAKE a Pint of Cream, blanch and beat a Quarter of a Pound of Almonds fine, with two Spoonfuls of Rose-Water. Sweeten it to your Palate. Beat up the Yolks of four Eggs, stir all together one Way over the Fire ’till it is thick, then pour it out into Cups; or you may bake it in little China Cups. To make Baked Custards. TAKE a Pint of Cream boiled with Mace and Cin- namon; when cold, take four Eggs, two Whites left out, a little Rose and Orange-Flower-Water and Sack, 107 made Plain and Easy. Sack, Nutmeg and Sugar to your Palate; mix them Well together, and bake them in China Cups. To make plain Custards. TAKE a Quart of New Milk, sweeten it to your Taste, grate in a little Nutmeg, beat up eight Eggs, leave out half the Whites, beat them up well, stir them into the Milk, and bake it in China Basons, or put them in a deep China Dish; have a Kettle of Water boiling, set the Cup in, let the Water come above half Way, but don't let it boil too fast for fear of its getting into the Cups. You may add a little Rose-Water. To make a Sack Posset. TAKE a Quart of Cream, boil it with two or three Blades of Mace, and grate in a long Bisket: Take eight Eggs, leave out half the Whites, beat them very well, with a Pint of Gooseberry Wine; make it hot, so mix it well with your Eggs, set it over a slow Fire, and stir it about whilst it be as thick as Custard; set a Dish that is deep over a Stove; put in your Sack and Eggs, when your Cream is boiling hot, put it to your Sack by Degrees, and stir it all the Time it stands over your Stove, ’till it be thoroughly hot, but don't let it boil: You must make it about half an Hour before you want it: Set it upon a hot Hearth, and then it will be as thick as Custard. Make a little Froth of Cream, to lay over the Posset: When you dish it up sweeten it to your Taste. You may make it without Bisket if you please; but don't lay on your Froth 'till you serve it up. To make Whipt Sillabubs. TAKE two Porringers of Cream and one of white Wine, grate in the Skin of a Lemon, take the Whites of three Eggs, sweeten it to your Taste, then whip it with a Whisk, take off the Froth as it rises, and 108 The whole Art of COOKERY and put it into your Sillabub-Glasses or Pots, which you have, and then they are fit for Use. To make Sack Whey. PUT half a Pint of New-Milk in a clean Sauce-pan; set it upon a clear Fire; and as soon as it boils up put in a Jill of Sack or white Wine; let it continue upon the Fire ’till it just boils up again, and ’till the Curd separates from the Whey. Take it off, let it settle, and then pour off the Whey. Add to it half a Pint of boiling Water, or as much as will make it of a proper Strength for the Person's Palate, or the Oc- casion requires. To make Cream Curds. TAKE a Gallon of Water, put to it a Quart of new Milk, a little Salt, a Pint of sweet Cream, and eight Eggs, leaving out half the Whites and Strains, beat them very well, put to them a Pint of four Cream, mix them very well together, and when your Pan is just at boiling (but it must not boil) put in the four Cream and your Eggs, stir it about and keep it from settling to the Bottom: Let it stand whilst it begins to rise up, then have a little fair Water, and as they rise keep putting it in whilst they be well risen, then take them off the Fire, and let them stand a little to settle; have ready a Sieve with a clean Cloth over it, and take up the Curds with a Ladle or Egg- Slice, You must always make them the Night before you use them. If you think your Curds be too thick, mix two or three Spoonfuls of good Cream with them; lay them upon a China Dish in Lumps, and serve them up. To make Rice or Almond Cream. TAKE two Quarts of Cream, boil it with a Stick of Cinnamon, then take it from the Fire and sweeten it; pick out the Cinnamon and divide it into two 109 made Plain and Easy. two Parts: Take a Quarter of a Pound of blanched Almonds well beaten with Orange-Flower-Water, set that on the Fire, and put to it the Yolks of four Eggs well beat and strained, keep it stirring all the Time it is on the Fire; when it rises to boil take it off, stir it a little, then put it into your Bason, the other half set on the Fire, and thicken it with Flour of Rice: When you take it off put to it the Juice of a Lemon, Orange-Flower-Water or Sack, and stir it ’till it be cold, then serve it up. To make Apple Cream. TAKE half a Dozen large Apples, Codlings or any other Apples that will be soft, and coddle them, when they are cold take out the Pulp; then take the Whites of four or five Eggs (leaving out the Strains) three Quarters of a Pound of double refined Sugar beat and sifted, a Spoonful or two of Rose-Water, and grate in a little Lemon-peel; so beat all together for an Hour, whilst it be white, then lay it on a China Dish, and so serve it up. To make Orange Cream. TAKE two Seville Oranges and peel them very thin, put the Peel into a Pint of fair Water, and let it lay for an Hour or two: Take four Eggs, and beat them very well, put to them the Juice of three or four Oranges, according as they are in Goodness, and sweeten them with double refined Sugar to your Taste: Mix the Water and Sugar together, and strain them through a fine Cloth into your Tankard; set it over the Fire as you did the Lemon Cream, and put it into your Glasses for Use. To make Calves Foot Jelly. DRESS four Calves Feet, boil them in six Quarts of Water over a slow Fire, whilst all the Bones will come out, and half the Water be boiled away; strain 110 The whole Art of COOKERY strain it into a Stone Bowl, then put to them two or three Quarts more Water, and let it boil away to one: If you want a large Quantity of Flummery or Jelly at one Time, take two Calves Feet more, it will make your Stock the stronger; You must make your Stock the Day before you use it, and before you put your Stock into the Pan take off the Fat, and put it into your Pan to melt. Take the Whites of eight or ten Eggs, just as you have Jelly in Quantity, (for the more Whites you have makes your Jelly the finer) beat your Whites to a Froth, and put to them five or six Lemons, according as they are of Goodness, a little white Wine or Rhenish, mix them well together (but let not your Stock be too hot when you put them in) and sweeten it to your Taste; keep it stirring all the Time it boils; take your Bag and dip it in hot Water, and wring it well out; then put in your Jelly, and keep it shifting whilst it comes clear: Throw a Lemon-peel or two into your Bag as the Jelly is com- ing off, and put in some Bits of Peel into your Glasses. You may make Hartshorn Jelly the same Way. To make Plumb Gruel. TAKE half a Pound of Pearl Barley, set it on to cree; put to it three Quarts of Water; when it has boiled a while, shift it into another fresh Water, and put to it three or four Blades of Mace, and a little Lemon-peel cut in long Pieces, so let it boil ’till the the Barley is very soft: If it be too thick you may add a little more Water. Take half a Pound of Currants, wash them well and plump them, and put to them your Barley, and half a Pound of Raisins stoned. Let them boil in the Gruel ’till they are plump; when they are enough put to them a little white Wine, a little Juice of Lemon, and half a Nutmeg grated; sweeten it to your Taste, so serve them up. To 111 made Plain and Easy. To make Rice Gruel. BOIL half a Pound of Rice in two Quarts of soft Water, as soft as you would have it for Rice Milk, with some Slices of Lemon-peel, and a Stick of Cinnamon; add to it a little white Wine and Juice of Lemon to your Taste; put in a little candied Orange sliced thin, and sweeten it with fine powder Sugar. Don't let it boil after you put in your Wine and Le- mon. Put it in a China Dish, with five or six Slices of Lemon, so serve it up. To make Sagoo Gruel. TAKE four Ounces of Sagoo and wash it, set it over a slow Fire to cree in two Quarts of Spring Water, let it boil whilst it be thickish and soft, put in a Blade or two of Mace, and a Stick of Cinnamon, let it boil in a while, and then put in a little more Water; take it off, put to it a Pint of red Wine, and a little candied Orange; shift them, and then put the Juice of a Lemon. Sweeten it to your Taste; so serve it up. To make Milk Punch. TAKE two Quarts of skim Milk, a Quart of good Brandy, the Juice of six Lemons or Oranges, which you please, and about six Ounces of Loaf Sugar; mix them well all together and drop them thro’ a Jelly- Bag; take off the Peel of two of the Lemons or Oranges, and put it into your Bag, when it is run off bottle it; ’twill keep as long as you please. To make Milk Punch another Way. TAKE three half Pints of Water, half a Pint of skim'd Milk, and half a Pint of Brandy; sweeten it to your Taste: You must not put any Acid into this, for it will make it curdle. This is a cooling Punch to drink in a Morning, and has of late been called Ward's Drops. To 112 The whole Art of COOKERY To make Punch the common Way. TAKE three Pints of boiling Water and one Pint of Brandy or Rum, add to it the Juice of two Lemons or Oranges, and about four Ounces of Loaf Sugar; when you have mixed it together, strain it through a Hair Sieve or Cloth, and put into your Bowl the Peel of a Lemon or Orange. To make Acid for Punch. AT particular Times fruit is so extravagantly dear, that it is necessary to make use of other Kinds of Acid, many of which are very unwholsome; but the following is what every one will be satisfied withal, and will answer the Purpose very well. Take Gooseberries at their full Growth, pick and beat them in a Marble Mortar, and squeeze them through a coarse Canvas Bag in a Press; when you have done run it thro’ a Flannel Bag, and then bottle it in small Bottles; put a little Oil on every Bottle, so keep it for Use. To bottle Gooseberries. GATHER your Gooseberries when they are young, pick and bottle them, put in the Cork loose, set them in a Pan of Water, with a little Hay in the Bottom; put them into the Pan when the Water is cold, let it stand on a slow Fire, and mind when they are coddled; don't let the Pan boil, if you do it win break the Bottles; when they are cold fasten the Cork, and put on a little Rosin, so keep them for Use. Another Way to bottle Gooseberries. GATHER your Gooseberries in a dry Day, and when they are full Grown; pick off the black Eyes, but be sure not to break the Skin of the Goose- berry. When you have done this put them into wide- mouth’d Bottles, cork them close up, seal the Cork- and Head of the Bottles with Rosin, and bury them at 113 made Plain and Easy. at least two Feet deep in dry Earth or Gravel. These Gooseberries will keep all the Winter, provided they are so deep as that the Frost cannot reach them, and that they are in a very dry Place, and they will make better Pies or Tarts than by any other Method of keep- ing them; besides the little Trouble there is in doing them. To make Jelly of Currants. TAKE a Quartern of the largest and best Currants you can get, strip them from the Stalks, and put them in a Pot; stop them close up, and boil them in a Pot of Water over the Fire, ’till they be thoroughly coddled and begin to look pale, then press them thro’ a clean Hair Sieve, and afterwards run the Liquor thro’ a Flannel Bag; To every Pint of your Liquor put in a Pound of your double refin’d Sugar. You must beat the Sugar fine, and put it in by Degrees; set it over the Fire, and boil it fo long as any Skum will rise; then put it into Glass for Use; The next Day clip a Paper round, and dip it in Brandy to lie on your Jelly. If you would have your Jelly a light Red, put in half white Currants; and in my Opinion it looks much better. To dry Cherries. TO four Pounds of Cherries put one Pound of Su- gar, and just put as much Water to the Sugar as will wet it; when it is melted, make it boil, stone your Cherries, put them in, and make them boil: Skim them two or three Times, take them off, and let them stand in the Syrup two or three Days, then boil your Syrup and put to them again, but don't boil Your Cherries any more. Let them stand three or four Days longer, then take them out, lay them in Sieves to dry, and lay them in the Sun, or in a slow Oven to dry; when dry, lay them in Rows in Papers, and so a Row 114 The whole Art of COOKERY a Row of Cherries, and a Row of white Paper in Boxes. To preserve Cherries, with the Leaves and Stalks Green. FIRST dip the Stalk and Leaves in the best Vinegar, boiling hot, stick the Sprig upright in a Sieve ’till they are dry; in the mean Time boil some double refin’d Sugar to a Syrup, and dip the Cherries, Stalks and Leaves in the Syrup, and just let them scald; lay them on a Sieve, and boil the Sugar to a candy Height, then dip the Cherries, Stalks, Leaves and all; then stick the Branches in Sieves, and dry them as you do other Sweetmeats. They look very pretty at Candle- light in a Desart. To preserve Damsons whole. YOU must take some Damsons and cut them in Pieces, put them in a Skillet over the Fire, with as much Water as will cover them. When they are boiled and the Liquor pretty strong, strain it out: Add for every Pound of the whole Damsons wiped clean, a Pound of single refin’d Sugar, put the third Part of your Sugar into the Liquor, set it over the Fire, and when it simmers put in the Damsons. Let them have one good Boil, and take them off for half an Hour covered up close; then set them on again, and let them simmer over the Fire after turning them; then take them out and put them in a Bason, strew all the Sugar that was left on them, and pour the hot Liquor over them. Cover them up, and let them Land ’till next Day, then boil them up again ’till they are enough. Take them up, and put them in Pots; boil the Liquor ’till it jellies, and pour it on them when it is almost cold, so paper them up. To preserve the large Green Plumbs. FIRST dip the Stalk and Leaves in boiling Vinegar, when they are dry have your Syrup ready, and first 115 made Plain and Easy. first give them a scald, and very carefully with a Pin take off the Skin; boil your Sugar to a candy Height, and dip in your Plumbs, hang them by the Stalk to dry, and they will look finely transparent, and by hanging that Way to dry, will have a clear Drop at the Top. You must take great Care to clear your Sugar nicely. A nice Way to preserve Peaches. PUT your Peaches in boiling Water, just give them a scald, but don't let them boil; take them out and put them in cold Water, then dry them in a Sieve, and put them in long wide-mouth'd Bottles; To half a Dozen Peaches take a Quarter of a Pound of Sugar, clarify it, pour it over your Peaches, and fill the Bottles With Brandy. Stop them close, and keep them in a close Place. A second Way to preserve Peaches. MAKE your Syrup as above, and when it is clear just dip in your Peaches and take them out again, lay them on a Dish to cool, then put them into large Wide-mouth'd Bottles, and when the Syrup is cool pour it over them; let them stand 'till cold, and fill up the Bottle with the best French Brandy. Observe that you leave room enough for the Peaches to be well covered with Brandy, and cover the Glass close with a Bladder and Leather, and tie them down close. To preserve Orange Chips to put in Glasses. TAKE clear skinned Seville Oranges, pare them very thin from the White, then take a Pair of Scissars and clip them in Shreds; boil them in two or three Waters to take out the Bitter; then take a Pound of double refined Sugar, boil it and skim it; put in your Orange, so let it boil over the Fire whilst your Syrup be thick, and your Orange look clear, then put it into Glasses; cover it with Papers dipt in Brandy. To 116 The whole Art of COOKERY To preserve Oranges or Lemons. TAKE Seville Oranges, the largest and roughest you can get, and clear of Spots; chip them very fine, and put them in Water for two Days, shifting them twice or three times a Day; then boil them 'till they are soft; cut them in Quarters, and take out all the Pippins with a Penknife: Weigh them, and to every Pound of Orange, take a Pound and half of Loaf Sugar; put your Sugar into a Pan, and to every Pound of Sugar a Pint of Water. Set it over the Fire to melt, and when it boils skim it very well; then put in your Oranges; if you would have any of them whole, make a little Hole at the Top, and take out the Meat with a Tea Spoon, set your Oranges over a slow Fire to boil, and keep them skimming all the while: Keep your Oranges as much as you can with the Skin downwards. You may cover them with a Delf-plate, to keep them down in the boiling; and let them boil for three Quarters of an Hour, then put them into a Pot or Bason, and let them stand two Days covered; Then boil them again 'till they look clear, and the Syrup be thick; so put them into a Pot, and lay close over them a Paper dipped in Brandy, and tie a double Paper at the Top; set them in a cool Place, and keep them for Use. If you would have your Oranges that are whole, look pale and clear, to put in Glasses, you must make a Syrup of Pippin Jelly; then take ten or a Dozen Pippins, as they are of Bigness, pare and slice them, and boil them in as much Water as will cover them, 'till they be thoroughly tender, so strain your Water from the Pippins through a Hair Sieve, and afterwards through a Flannel Bag; and to every Pint of Jelly take a Pound of double refin'd Sugar, set it over a Fire to boil, and skim it; let it boil whilst it be thick, then put 117 made Plain and Easy. put it into a Pot and cover it, but they will keep best if they be put every one in different Pots. To preserve Apricocks. TAKE Apricocks before they be full ripe, stone and pare 'em, then weigh 'em, and to every Pound Apricocks take a Pound of double refin'd Sugar, beat it very small, lay one Part of your Sugar under the Apricocks, and the other Part at the Top, let them stand all Night, the next Day put them in a Stew-pan or Brass-pan; don't do over many at once in your Pan, for fear of breaking. Let them boil over a slow Fire, skim them very well, and turn them two or three Times in boiling; You must but half do 'em at the first, and let them stand whilst they be cool, then let them boil till your Apricocks look clear, and the Syrup thick; put them into your Pots or Glasses, when they are cold cover them with a Paper dipt in Brandy, and then tie another Paper close over your Pot to keep out the Air. To make Marmalade of Apricocks, TAKE Quantity of Apricocks you shall think proper, stone them and put them immediately into a Skillet of boiling Water; keep them under Water on the Fire 'till they be soft, then take them out of the Water and wipe them with a Cloth: Weigh your Sugar with your Apricocks, Weight for Weight, then dissolve your Sugar in Water, and boil it to a candy Height; put in your Apricocks, being a little bruised, and let them boil but a Quarter of an Hour; then glass them up. To know when your Sugar is at Candy Height. TAKE some Sugar and clarify it 'till it comes to a Candy Height, and keep it still boiling 'till it be- comes thick; then stir it with a Stick, and when it is at Candy Height it will fly from your Stick like Flakes of 118 The whole Art of COOKERY of Snow, or Feathers flying in the Air, and 'till it comes to that Height it will not fly in that Manner. To keep Barberries or Cranberries for Tarts all these year. TAKE Barberries or Cranberries when they are full ripe, and pick them from the Stalk; put them into dry Bottles, cork them up very close end keep them for Use. How to keep Damsons for Tarts. TAKE Damsons before they are full ripe, to every Quart of Damsons put a Pound of powder Sugar, put them into a pretty broad Pot, a Layer of Sugar and a Layer of Damsons, tie them close up, set them in a slow Oven, and let them have a Heat every Day whilst the Syrup be thick and the Damsons enough; melt a little Sheep Suet and pour over them, so keep them for Use. To keep Damsons another Way. TAKE Damsons before they be quite ripe, pick off the Stalks, and put them into dry Bottles; cork them as you would do Ale, and keep them in a Cellar or cool Place for Use; and cover the Bottles with Sand. To keep Asparagus or Green Pease all the Year. TAKE Green Pease, scald them as you do other Pickles in Salt and Water; let it be always new Pickle, and when you would use them boil them in fresh Water. To preserve Fruit Green. TAKE your Fruit when they are green, and some fair Water, set it on the Fire, and when it is hot put in the Apples; cover them close, but they must not boil; so let them stand 'till they be soft, and there will be a thin Skin on them, peel it off, and set them to cool, then put them in again, let them boil 'till they be very Green, and keep them as whole as you can: 119 made Plain and Easy. can: When you think them ready to take up, make your Syrup for them. Take their Weight in Sugar, and your Syrup is ready put the Apples into it, and boil them very well in it. They will keep all the Year if you put them in a dry Place near the Fire. You may do green Plumbs or other Fruit in the same Manner. To preserve Fruit green all the Year. GATHER your Fruit when they are three Parts ripe, on a very dry Day, whilst the Sun shines on them; then take earthen Pots and put them in, cover the Pots with Cork, or bung them that no Air can get into them; dig a Place in the Earth a Yard deep, set the Pots therein and cover them with the Earth very close, and keep them for Use. When you take any out cover them up again as at the first. How to make Gooseberry Vinegar. TO every Gallon of Water take six Pounds of ripe A Gooseberries, bruise them, and pour the Water boiling hot upon your Berries; cover it close, and set it in a warm Place to ferment, 'till all the Berries come to the Top, then draw it off, and to every Gallon of Liquor put a Pound and half of Sugar, then tun it into a Cask. Set it in a warm Place, and in six Months it will be fit for Use. How to keep Kidney Beans all Winter. TAKE Kidney Beans when they are young, leave on both the Ends, lay a Layer of Salt at the bottom of your Pot, and then a Layer of Beans, and so on 'till your Pot be full, cover them close at the Top that they get no Air, and set them in a cool Place: Before you boil them lay them in Water all Night, let your Water boil when you put them in, (without Salt) and put into it a Lump of Butter about the Bigness of a Walnut. How 120 The whole Art of COOKERY How to pickle Cucumbers sliced. PARE thirty large Cucumbers, slice them into a Pewter Dish; take six Onions, slice and straw on them some Salt; so cover them, and let them stand to drain twenty four Hours: Make your Pickle of white Wine Vinegar, Nutmeg, Pepper, Cloves and Mace; boil the Spices in the Pickle, drain the Liquor clean from the Cucumbers, put them into a deep Pot, pour the Liquor upon them boiling hot, and cover them very close: When they are cold drain the Liquor from them, give it another boil, and after it is cold pour it on them again; so keep them for Use. How to pickle Walnuts Green. GATHER Walnuts when the Shell is so tender that you can run a Pin thro' them, pare them and put them in Water; let them lie four or five Days, stir- ring it twice a Day to take out the Bitter; then put them in strong Salt and Water, and let them lie a Week or ten Days, stirring it once or twice a Day. Then put them in fresh Salt and Water, and hang them over a Fire; put to them a little Allum, and cover them up close with Vine Leaves; let them hang over a slow Fire whilst they be green, but be sure don't let them boil. When they are green put them into a Sieve to drain the Water from them. How to make Pickle for them. TAKE a little good Vinegar, put to it a little long Pepper and Jamaica Pepper, a few Bay Leaves, a little Horse-radish, a Handful or two of Mustard- Seed, a few Cloves of Garlick, a little Salt and a little Rockambol if you have any, if not a few Shalots; boil them all together in the Vinegar, which put to your Walnuts, and let it stand three or four Days, giving them a Scald once a Day; then tie them up for Use. A Spoon- 121 made Piain and Easy. A Spoonful of this Pickle is good for Fish-Sauce, or a Calf's Head Hash. How to pickle Walnuts Black. GATHER Walnuts when they are so tender that you can run a Pin thro' them, prick them all with a Pin very well, lay them in fresh Water, and let them lie for a Week, Shifting them once a Day; make for them a strong Salt and Water, and let them lie whilst they be Yellow, stirring them once a Day; then take them out of the Salt and Water, and boil it; put it on your Walnuts, and let your Pot stand in the Warmth of the Fire, and scald them once or twice a Day 'till they are black. You may make the same Pickle for those, as you did for the Green ones. To pickle Gerkins. TAKE Gerkins of the first Growth, pick them clean, put them in a strong Salt and Water; let them lie a Week or ten Days 'till they be thoroughly Yellow; then scald them in the same Salt and Water they lie in, once a Day, and let them lie whilst they are Green; then set them in a warm Place close covered. To make Pickle for your Cucumbers. TAKE good Vinegar (the Quantity must be equal to the Quantity of your Cucumbers, and so must your Seasoning) Black Pepper, Jamaica Pepper, and long Pepper; two or three Shalots, a little Horse- radish scraped or sliced, a little Salt and a Bit of Al- lum; boil them all together, and scald your Cucum- bers two or three Times with your Pickle; and tie them up for Use. To pickle large Cucumbers. TAKE large Cucumbers and put them in a strong Salt and Water; let them lie 'till they be G thoroughly 122 The whole Art of COOKERY thoroughly Yellow, then scald them in the same Salt and Water they lie in once a Day 'till they are Green: Then take the best Vinegar you can get, put to it a little Jamaica Pepper and black Pepper, some Horse- radish in Slices, a few Bay Leaves, and a little Dill and Salt; so scald your Cucumbers twice or thrice in this Pickle, and then put them up for Use. How to pickle Mushrooms. TAKE Mushrooms when fresh gathered, fort the large ones from the Buttons, cut off the Stalks, wash them in Water with a Flannel, and have a Pan of Water ready on the Fire to boil them in, for the less they lie in the Water the better: Let them have two or three Boils over the Fire, then put them into a Sieve, and when you have drained the Water from them put them into a Pot; throw over them a Hand- ful of Salt, stop them up close with a Cloth, and let them hand two or three Hours before the Fire, or at the End of the Grate, giving your Pot a shake now and then; then drain the Pickle from them, and lay them in a Cloth for an Hour or two, so put into them as much distilled Vinegar as will cover them. Let them lie a Week or ten Days, then take them out, and put them in dry Bottles; put to them a little white Pepper and Salt, and Ginger diced; fill them up with distilled Vinegar, put over them a little sweet Oil, and cork them up close. If your Vinegar be good they will keep two or three Years. I know it by Experience. You must be sure not to fill your Bottles above three Parts full, if you do they will not keep. Another Way to pickle Mushrooms. TAKE Mushrooms and wash them with a Flannel in Milk and Water, throw them into Water as you wash them, only pick the small from the large; put 123 made Plain and Easy. put them into a Pot, throw over them a little Salt, and, stop up your Pot close with a Cloth: Boil them in a Pot of Water as you do Currants when you make a Jelly, giving them a Shake now and then: You may guess when they are enough by the Quantity of Liquor that comes from them. When you think they are enough strain from them the Liquor, put in a little white Wine Vinegar, and boil in it a little Mace, White Pepper, Jamaica Pepper, and sliced Ginger: When it is cold put it to the Mushrooms, bottle them and keep them for Use. They will keep this Way very well, and have more of the Taste of Mushrooms, but they will not be altogether so white. How to pickle large Buttons. TAKE your Buttons, clean them and cut them in three or four Pieces, and put them into a large Sauce-pan to stew in their own Liquor; put to them a little Jamaica and whole Pepper, a Blade or two of Mace, and a little Salt; cover them up, Jet them stew over a flow Fire 'till you think they are enough, then strain from them their Liquor, and put to them a little White Wine Vinegar give all a boil together, and when it is cold put it to your Mushrooms, and keep them for Use. You may pickle Flaps the same Way. To make Catchup. TAKE large Mushrooms which are called Flaps, when they are fresh gathered, cut off the dirty Ends, break them small in your Hands, put them in a stone Bowl, with a Handful or two of Salt; and let them Hand all Night: If you don't get Mushrooms enough at once, with a little Salt they will keep a Day or two whilst you get more; so put them in a Stew-pot, and set them in an Oven with Houshold G2 Bread. 124 The whole Art of COOKERY Bread. When they are enough strain from them the Liquor, and let it stand to settle; then boil it with a little Mace, Jamaica and whole Black Pepper, and two or three Shalots; Boil it over a slow Fire for an Hour, when it is boiled, let it stand to settle, and when it is cold bottle it. If you boil it well it will keep a Year or two. You must put in Spices accord- ing to the Quantity of your Catchup; but you must not wash them, nor put to them any Water. To pickle Elder Buds. TAKE Elder Buds when they are tender, lay them in a strong Salt and Water for ten Days, and then scald them in Salt and Water fresh made; put in a Lump of Allum, let them stand near the Fire close covered up, and scald them once a Day 'till they are green. You may do Radish Pods or Brown Buds the same Way. To make the Pickle. TAKE a little Beer or White Wine Vinegar, and put to it two or three Blades of Mace, with a little whole Pepper and Jamaica Pepper, a few Bay Leaves and a little Salt, put it to your Buds, and scald them two or three Times; then they are fit for Use. To pickle Onions. TAKE the smallest Onions you can get, peel and put them into a large Quantity of fair Water, let them lay two Days, and shift them twice a Day; then drain them from the Water: Take a little distill'd Vinegar, put to them two or three Blades of Mace, and a little white Pepper and Salt; boil it, and pour it upon your Onions; let them stand three Days, so put them into little Glasses, and tie a Bladder over them. They 125 made Plain and Easy. They are very good done with Beer Vinegar for common use, only put in Jamaica Pepper instead of Mace. To make Mango of Cucumbers or small Mellons. GATHER Cucumbers when they are green, cut a Bit off the End and take out all the Meat; lay them in a strong Salt and Water, let them lay for a Week or ten Days whilst they be Yellow, then scald them in the same Salt and Water they lay in whilst Green; then drain from them the Water; Take a little Mustard-seed, a little Horse-radish, some scraped and some shred fine, a Handful of Shalots, a Clove or two of Garlick if you like the Taste, and a little shred Mace: Take six or eight Cucumbers shred fine, mix them amongst the rest of the Ingredients, then fill your Mellons or Cucumbers with the Meat, and put in the Bits at the Ends; tie them on with a String; so take as much Beer or White Wine Vinegar as will well cover them, and put into it a little Jamaica and whole Pepper, a little Horse-radish and a Handful or two ol Mustard-seed; then boil it, and pour it upon your Mango; Let it stand in the Heat of the fire two or three Days, scald them once a Day, and then tie them up for Use. To pickle Red Cabbage. CHUSE a Red Cabbage, that is of a purple Red, for the light Red never proves a good Colour; shred it in very thin Slices, season it with Pepper and Salt very well, let it lay all Night upon a broad Tin, or a Dripping-pan; take a Quantity of Beer Vinegar, put to it a little Jamaica Pepper, and two or three Rases of Ginger; boil them together, and when it is cold pour it upon your Cabbage, and in two or three Days Time, it will be fit for Use. G3 You 126 The whole Art of COOKERY You may throw a little Colliflower among it, and it will turn Red. To pickle Barberries. TAKE Barberries when full Ripe, put them into a Pot, boil a strong Salt and Water, then pour it on them boiling hot; when they are cold, put them into Pots and tie them up close. To make Mushroom Powder. TAKE about half a Peck of large Buttons or Flaps, clean them and let them in an Earthen Dish or Dripping-pan one by one, let them stand in a slow Oven to dry 'till they will beat to Powder, and when they are Powdered sift them through a Sieve: Take half a Quarter of an Ounce of Mace, and a Nutmeg, beat them very fine, and mix them with your Mushroom Powder, then put it into a Bottle, and it will be fit for Use. You must not wash your Mushrooms. This Powder is of great Use in all brown Gravies. To pickle French Beans. PICKLE your Beans as you do the Gerkins; and they are a nice Pickle and very useful, particularly in Garnishing. How to pickle Beat-Root. SET a Pot of Spring-Water on the Fire, when it boils, put in your Beats, and let them boil till they are tender, then peel them with a Cloth, and lay them in a Stone Jar: Take three Quarts of Vine- gar, two of Spring-Water, and so do 'till you think you have enough to cover your Beats. Put your Vine- gar and Water in a Pan, and Salt to your Taste; stir it well together, 'till the Salt is all melted, then pour them on the Beats, and cover it with a Bladder. Do not boil the Pickle. Rules 127 made Plain and Easy. Rules to he observed in Pickling. ALWAYS use Stone Jars for all Sorts of Pickles, that require hot Pickle to them. The first Charge is the least, for these not only last longer, but keep the Pickle better; for Vinegar and Salt will penetrate through all earthen Vessels: Stone and Glass is the Only Thing to keep Pickles in. Be sure never to put your Hands in to take Pickles out, it will soon spoil it. The best Way is, to every Pot tie a Wooden Spoon full of little Holes, to take the Pickles out with. How to make Raisin Wine. TAKE ten Gallons of Water, and fifty Pounds of Malaga Raisins, pick out the large Stalks and boil them in your Water; when your Water is boiled put it into a Tub; take the Raisins and chop them very small, and when your Water is blood warm, put them in, and rub them very well with your Hand; let them work for ten Days, stirring them twice a Day, then strain out the Raisins in a Hair Sieve, and put them into a clean Canvass or Hair Bag, and squeeze it in the Press to take out the Liquor, so put it into your Barrel; don't let it be over full, bung it up close, and let it stand 'till it is fine. When you tap your Wine you must not tap it too near the Bot- tom, for fear of the Grounds; when it is drawn off, take the Grounds out of the Barrel, and wash it out with a little of your Wine, then put your Wine into the Barrel again, draw your Grounds through a Flan- nel Bag, and put them into the Barrel to the rest; add to them two Pounds of Loaf Sugar, then bung it Up, and let it stand a Week or ten Days; if it be very Sweet to your Taste, let it stand some time longer, and bottle it. G4 How 128 The whole Art of COOKERY How to make Elder Wine. TAKE twenty Pounds of Malaga Raisins, pick and chop them, then put them into a Tub with twenty Quarts of Water, let the Water be boiled and stand 'till it be cold again before you put in your Raisin, let them remain together ten Days, stirring it twice a Day; then strain the Liquor very well from the Rai- sins, through a Canvas Strainer or Hair Sieve; add to it six Quarts of Elder Juice, five Pounds of Loaf Sugar, and a little Juice of Sloes to make it acid, just as you please; put it into a Vessel, and let it stand in a pretty warm Place three Months, then bottle it; the Vessel must not be stopped up 'till it has done Work- ing. If your Raisins be very good you may leave out the Sugar. To make Gooseberry Wine of ripe Gooseberries. PICK clean, and beat your Gooseberries in a Mar- ble Mortar or Wooden Bowl, measure them in Quarts up-heaped, add two Quarts of Spring-Water, and let them stand all Night or twelve Hours; then rub or press out the Husks very well, strain them through a wide Strainer, and to every Gallon put three Pounds of Sugar, and a Jill of Brandy; put all into a sweet Vessel, not very full, and keep it very close for four Months; and then decant it off 'till it comes clear: Pour out the Grounds, and wash the Vessel clean with a little of the Wine; add to every Gallon a Pound more Sugar, and let it stand a Month in the Vessel again; drop the Grounds through a Flannel Bag, and put it to the other in the Vessel. The tap Hole must not be over near the Bottom of the Cask, for fear of letting out the Grounds. The same Receipt will ferve for Currant Wine the same Way: Let them be red Currants. How 129 made Plain and Easy. How to make Balm Wine. TAKE a Peck of Balm Leaves, put them in a Tub or large Pot, heat four Gallons of Water scalding hot, ready to boil, then pour it upon the Leaves, so let it stand all Night; in the Morning strain them through a Hair Sieve; put to every Gallon of Water two Pounds of fine Sugar, and stir it very well; take the Whites of four or five Eggs, beat them very well, put them into a Pan, and whisk it very well before it be over hot; when the Skim begins to rise take it off, and keep it skimming all the while it is boiling; let it boil three Quarters of an Hour, and then put it into the Tub; when it is cold put a little new Yeast upon it, and beat it in every two Hours, that it may Head the better; so work it for two Days, then put it into a sweet Vessel, bung it up close, and when it is fine bottle it. To make Birch Wine. TAKE your Birch Water and boil it, and clear it with whites of Eggs; to every Gallon of Water take two Pounds and a half of fine Sugar; boil it three Quarters of an Hour, and when it is almost cold, put in a little Yeast; work it two or three Days, then put it into the Barrel, and to every five Gallons put in a Quart of Brandy, and half a Pound of stoned Raisins. Before you put up your Wine burn a Brimstone Match in the Barrel. To make white Currant Wine. TAKE the largest white Currants you can get, strip and break them in your Hand, 'till you break all the Berries; to every Quart of Pulp take a Quart of Water; let the Water be boiled and cold again; mix them well together, let them stand all Night in your Tub, then strain them through a Hair Sieve, and to every Gallon put two Pounds and a half of six-penny G5 Sugar; 130 The whole Art of COOKERY Sugar; when your Sugar is dissolved, put it into your Barrel, dissolve a little Isinglass, whisk it with Whites of Eggs, and put it in; to every four Gallons put in a Quart of Mountain Wine, so bung up your Barrel. When it is fine draw it off, and take out the Grounds, (but don't tap the Barrel over low at the Bottom) wash out the Barrel with a little of your Wine, and drop the Grounds through a Bag; then put it to the rest of your Wine, and put it all into your Barrel again: To every Gallon add half a Pound more Sugar, and let it stand another Week or two; if it be too sweet let it stand a little longer, then bottle it, and it will keep two or three Years. To make Orange Wine. TAKE six Gallons of Water, fifteen Pounds of pow- der and Sugar, and the Whites of six Eggs well beaten; boil them three Quarters of an Hour, and skim them while any Skim will rise; when it is cold enough for working, put to it six Ounces of the Syrup of Citron or Lemons, and six Spoonfuls of Yeast; beat the Syrup and Yeast well together, and put in the Peel and Juice of fifty Oranges; work it two Days and a Night, then tun it up into a Barrel, and bottle it at three or four Months old. To make Cowslip Wine. TAKE ten Gallons of Water, when it is almost at boiling, add to it twenty one Pounds of fine powder Sugar, let it boil half an Hour, and skim it very clean; when it is boiled put it in a Tub, let it stand 'till you think it cold enough to set on the Yeast; take a Poringer of new Yeast off the Vat, and put to it a few Cowslips; when you put on the Yeast, put in a few every Time it is stirred, 'till all the Cowslips be in, which must be six Pecks, and let it work three or four Days; add to it six Lemons peeled, and cut in 131 make Plain and Easy. in Slices; then put in a Pint of Brandy: When you think it has done working, close up your Vessel, let it stand a Month, and then bottle it. You may let your Cowslips lay a Week or ten Days to dry before you make your Wine, for it makes it much finer. You may put in a Pint of while Wine that is good, instead of the Brandy. To make strong Mead. TAKE twelve Gallons of Water, eight Pounds of Sugar, two Quarts of Honey, and a few Cloves; when your Pan boils take the Whites of eight or ten Eggs, beat them very well, put them into your Wa- ter before it be hot, and whisk them very well toge- ther; do not let it boil but skim it as it rises 'till it has done rising, then put it into your Tub; when it is about Blood-warm put to it three Spoonfuls of new Yeast; take eight or nine Lemons, pare them and squeeze out the Juice, put them both together into your Tub, and let them work two or three Days, then put it into your Barrel, but it must not be too full; take two or three Penny-worth of Isinglass, cut it as small as you can, beat it in a Mortar about a Quarter of an Hour, it will not make it small; but that it may dissolve sooner, draw out a little of the Mead into a Quart Mug, and let it stand within the Air of the Fire all Night; take the Whites of three Eggs, beat them very well, mix them with your Isin- glass, whisk them together, and put them into your Barrel; bung it up, and when it is fine bottle it. You may order Isinglass this Way to put into any sort of made Wine. To make Orange Brandy. TAKE a Quart of Brandy, the Peels of eight or ten Oranges thin pared, steep them in the Brandy forty-eight Hours in a close Pitcher; then take three Pints 132 The whole Art of COOKERY Pints of Water, put into it three Quarters of a Pound of Loaf Sugar, boil it 'till half be consumed, ahd let it stand 'till cold, then mix it with the Brandy. To make Orange Ale. TAKE forty of the best coloured Seville Oranges you can get; pare and cut them in Slices, and put them all with the Juice and Seeds into half a Hogs- head of Ale; when it is tunned up and working, put in the Oranges, and at the same Time a Pound and a half of Raisins of the Sun stoned; When it has done Working close up the Bung, and it will be ready to drink in a Month. To make Orange Shrub. TAKE Seville Oranges when they are full ripe; to three Dozen of Oranges put half a Dozen of large Lemons, pare them very thin, the thinner the better; squeeze the Lemons and Oranges together, strain the Juice through a Hair Sieve, and to a Quart of the juice put a Pound and a Quarter of Loaf Sugar; (about three Dozen of Oranges, if they be good, will make a Quart of Juice) to every Quart of Juice, put a Gallon of Brandy; put it into a little Barrel with an open Bung, with all the Chippings of your Oranges, and bung it up close. When it is fine bottle it. This is a pleasant Dram, and ready for Punch all the Year. Mons. 133 made Plain and Easy. Mons. Millien's Account of preserving Metals from Rust, as delivered to the Academy of Sciences, in France, July 18, 1749. IT is to be observed, that whatever Brass, Steel, or Iron, is intended to be kept bright, such Metals should be first scowred or polished very well; after which it is to be made very hot, by standing near a good Fire, not put into it, and then the Utensils thus prepared are to be put hot into, or rubbed over. With a Liquid made as follows: Burn a Parcel of Nightshade, Berries and all, to Ashes; add about half a Pint of these Ashes to a Gal- lon of Water, and let it boil for two Hours; when this Liquor is cold, it is fit for Use; and whatever bright Steel, Iron, &c. is made hot, and rubbed over, or put into this Liquid, such Metal will retain its Bright- ness many Years without any further Trouble. It is to be well dried by the Fire after taken out of the liquid; and then may be set by for Use. The Night- shade must be got in June or July, when the Berries are on, and in their Prime. It is very true, Mons. MILLIEN says in his Original, that the Utensils are to be put into the Liquid: But though I am willing to give him his due, in regard to owning him to be the first Inventor, yet I cannot Help declaring that I have made several considerable Improvements. In the first Place, instead of putting the Utensils. (which often prove troublesome, especially when they are large) I only dip a small Piece of Spunge into the Liquid, and rub such Things as I would have kept Bright therewith.—And this has always answered in every Thing I have used it in. In 134 The whole Art of COOKERY In his Original he only makes use of the Term Nightshade, but the Reader is desired to take Notice, that there are several Sorts of this Weed growing in most Hedges; and the Sort to be used is that which is called Deadly Nightshade. This Nightshade has a thin Stalk, and small Leaf; it grows very fast in damp Places, bears a bluish Flower about the Middle of May, and has a red Berry (first green) the Beginning of June, if it be a forward Season. It has puzzled many curious People to discover in what Manner the Liquid above described secures Me- tals from Rust in the surprizing Manner it does, and most of them declare, it must be by bracing up the Pores of the Metal, But as I am not for entering into a long Discourse on this Head, I will content myself with assuring the Reader, that it has never once failed me in the great Number of Experiments I have made. The Method used in France to preserve Furniture, Fire- Arms, &c. before Mons. MILLIEN's new in- vented Liquid came in Use. Dissolve half a Pound of Venetian, or (where that is not to be met with) half a Pound of common Tur- pentine, provided it be clear, in half a Pint of good Oil of Turpentine, and add to it half a Pint of good drying Linseed Oil, in which red Lead has been mix- ed; this must be made clear by Insolution, or long standing in the hot Sun; mix them well together, and with a Piece of Sponge dipped therein, rub over such Fire Arms, Furniture, &c. as you would have kept bright, and you may depend on the End being an- swered in this Manner. When the above Liquid is used, it is generally made warm, and then dipping a Sponge therein, such Things 135 made Plain and Easy. Things as you would preserve should be brushed over with if as thin as possible. Of Brewing MALT-LIQUORS. CHAP I. Brewing a Butt of pale Strong Beer, by an Innkeeper. I HAVE my Malt just broke in Grinding, to pre- vent my having soul Drink, by the Mixture of its fine Flour in too great a Quantity, which I let stand in Sacks by the Mash-tun Side, ready to be put in after the Water that is now heating in a Copper, hold- ing a Hogshead and a Firkin under a close Wooden cover to keep in the Steam, where it is to continue 'till it is ready to boil. In this condition, a Hogshead it must be put immediately into the Mash-tun, and as soon as possible, a Pail of cold Water in that, to qualify it, (though most others venture to mix this tough Malt with it in a boiling Heat) for receiving ten Bushels of Malt, that I put in very leisurely, whilst a second Person stirs it with an Oar or Paddle, as it runs out of the Sack, without any further mashing through- out the Brewing of Strong-Beer or Ale. Then im- mediately, with my Oar, I make room about the Basket upright Strainer for the sifted hully Part of one Bushel more of Malt, which I lay round it as close as I can; and, the Flour thereof, I spread over the Top, besides a single Bushel of Wheat Bran over all that; here it is to remain three Hours in Winter, and two in Summer. At this Time, I have a Firkin of hot Water left in my Copper, to which I add a Barrel of cold to make it up forty-five Gallons: This I heat away, and make it just ready to boil against my first Wort comes off the Goods; which when it is fit to do, 136 The whole Art of COOKERY do, I loosen my Plug and spend it off by a small Stream on one Pound of rubbed Hops, returning first what comes foul 'till it runs clear; Then I make use of my hot Water in the Copper, and leak it over the Goods by a Jett, or three Hand-bowls at a Time, letting that almost go off before I put on more; and so con- tinue 'till I have a Hogshead and six Gallons of Wort, which will about empty my Copper; for in this Case, I allow near a third Part of the Water's being drank up by the Malt never to be returned, and sometimes more than the Waste of one eighth Part for the Worts boiling away. As soon as this is done, I rub three Pounds of Hops more, with near the Quarter of all Ounce of Salt of Tartar, and throw all into the Cop- per. At this Time I have another Copper, that holds a Barrel of Water, now boiling hot, which I lave over the Goods by Degrees as before, 'till I get a second Wort off for making me half a Hogshead of Ale, that I sell within Doors for Four-pence a Quart. In the mean Time, I boil my Copper of first Wort, 'till all the Hops sink, which is the Sign of its being enough, without staying for the Wort's breaking or curdling; accordingly I strain it, and let it lay very shallow in Coolers. By this Time, I receive a Barrel of second Wort off, having here as much Wort returned as the Water that went in. This I boil with all the Hops that came out of the First, 'till it breaks, and then strain it into Coolers; observing to supply the Grains with a Hogshead of cold Water as soon as the second Wort comes off; which after it is foundly mashed, and has lain three Quarters of an Hour, I draw off, and boil it without any Hops a Quarter of an Hour; then I discharge it into my Coolers, to be heated next Morning and used instead of the first Water, which is called Doubling, for Brewing eleven Bushels more of 137 made Plain and Easy. of Malt in the same Manner the last was done; only with this Difference, that when at last I mash up with cold Water for Small-Beer, I put only so much on as will bring me off thirty-four Gallons, for making me half a Hogshead in my little Copper, with the Hops that I us'd before. CHAP II. Brewing a Hogshead and a Half of Pale-Ale from fresh Malt, by a private Person. AS my Copper holds a Hogshead and a Firkin, and I am to brew twelve Bushels of Malt, I charge it full of Spring-Water, which I heat 'till it is just ready to boil, but not boil: This I put into my Mash- tun, and run ten Bushels of Malt very leisurely on the same, keeping it all the while stirred by a second Person; which when it is sufficiently done, I cap with the eleventh Bushel, and let it stand while I get ano- ther Copper full of boiling Water as fast as I can; twenty-four Gallons of which I put into my Tun and mash up, covering all with the twelfth Bushel. Then I immediately add eighteen Gallons of cold Water to thirty-nine of hot left in the Copper, and get it into a boiling heat against all my first Wort comes off; which after it has stood two Hours, I spend away, and boil it with two Pounds of Hops, (first well rub- bed) in a roomly Canvas or such as they call straining Cloth; and at the end of thirty Minutes after it has begun to boil, I take them out, continuing the Ebul- lition 'till the Wort breaks enough, when I directly empty it into Coolers, and there have about forty-two Gallons. By this time, my second Wort is ready to go into the Copper, that I made by mashing up my Goods with the fifty-seven Gallons of boiling Water, and 138 The whole Art of COOKERY and letting it stand three Quarters of an Hour before I discharge it. This I boil away with two Pounds more of fresh Hops in the Canvas Bag, in all respects as did my first Wort, and so receive off forty-nine Gallons, which with thirty-seven I had before, makes me eighty-six, that will (allowing for after Wastes) be about a Hogshead and a Half of Ale: And last of all, I mash up with thirty-six Gallons of cold Water to stand three Quarters of an Hour; and then I boil it with all my Strong-drink Hops, about an Hour and a half, 'till I have about twenty-seven Gallons or half a Hogshead off for Small-Beer. CHAP III. An Account of Brewing Malt Liquors without Boiling. A Miller 'near Chelmsford in Essex, is famous for brewing his Drink after this Manner, that he makes so strong as to burn if thrown into the Fire, and is always fine. His Way is to boil the Hops in Wa- ter, and after they are strained out, he puts that Wa- ter into his Tun for the first Mash; and if he had oc- casion for more hot Water, he boils fresh Hops, strains them out, and puts the Liquor over the Goods, as he did the first time; because the more terrene, and fe- culent Parts of the Hop commonly extracted by Ebul- lition, are by this Method as it were filtred out, and left behind in the Grains; for there is a natural Con- tact between the earthly, Phlegmatick Parts of the Malt and Hops, and so the Salts of the Yeast sooner join or have a readier Contact with those of the cor rupted or fermented Grain, i. e. Malt in Wort, than they do with Molesses, or other Bodies, that have not more or less undergone a Pre-fermentation: After this he cools his Wort and ferments as usual, but with- out 139 made Plain and Easy. out boiling it at all. And also in Hertfordshire, I know a Man that has brewed all his Drink for his own Fa- mily many Years after this Manner, with great Re- putation. The same likewise I found practised at Froome, and some other Parts of Somersetshire, and is certainly an excellent Way, provided this can be done without losing any of the Hop's Spirit by Evaporation: Wherefore instead of boiling them in an open Copper, they should be infused or boiled under such a confining Cover, as will secure their Virtue; then if they are strained out, and the Water put over the Malt, the Wort will certainly be the better; and in this Case fewer Hops will do, because their whole Strength is thus intirely preserved. Wort is better for not being boiled, because boiling thickens and hardens it; and Water also by evaporating the lighter, softer, and more pure Part: Though I cannot say that any Spirit eva- porates in boiling Wort; because if the Grain is so opened as to emit any Spirits in Malting, it is thoroughly lost in the watering and drying. Also the common Objection of its being raw, and not fit for keeping, I have already obviated by this reason, that it is not boiling that maturates and preserves Malt Liquors, but a right, and due Fermentation, and its spirit; which is likewise further confirmed by the Practice of a certain wealthy Virtuoso near Bristol, who constantly brews his Ale and Table Drink with- out boiling their Worts; and, in his own Words, He sometimes keeps his Ale near twelve Months, and be- lieves both to be as good as any of his Neighbours: Notwithstanding he is very particular in another Re- spect, which is, that he never puts Hop or any other Bitter to either Sort, and affirms it to be pleasanter and wholsomer without: tho' he formerly used to brew in the common Way. CHAP 140 The whole Art of COOOKERY CHAP IV. Of Brewing Butt Beer called Porter. THE Water just breaks or boils when they let in a- Quantity of cold to keep it from scalding, which they let run off by a great brass Cock down a wooden Trunk (which is fixed to the Side of the Mash-tun) and up through a false Bottom into the Malt: Then Mash with wooden Oars half an Hour; by this time the Water in the Copper is scalding hot, which they likewise let run into the Mash, and mash half an Hour longer. This they cap or cover with fresh Malt, and let it stand two Hours; then spend away by a Cock- Stream into the Under-back, where it lies a little while 'till a second Liquor is ready to boil, but not boil, with which they Mash again to have a sufficient Length of Wort that they boil at once, or twice, ac- cording to the Bigness of their Utensils. Others will make a third Mash, and boil a second Copper of Wort. The first is allowed an Hour and a half's boil- ing with three Pounds of Hops to each Barrel. The second Wort two Hours with the same Hops, and so on. Some calling the 1st, Hop-wort; the 2d, Mash- wort; the 3d, Neighbour-wort; and the 4th, Blew. Which last being a most small Sort, is sometimes al- lowed Six or Seven Hours boiling with the same used Hops. When in a right Temper they let down the Worts out of the Backs into the Tun from the grosser Contents, where they coolly ferment it with Yeast, 'till a fine curled Head rises and just falls again, that sometimes requires Twenty-four, sometimes Forty- eight Hours, as the Weather is hot or cold to perform this Operation. Then they cleanse it off into Barrels one Day, and carry it out the next to their Customers, keeping 141 made Plain and Easy. keeping the Vessels filling up now and then in the In- terim. For making this Drink with a good Body, they commonly draw oft a Barrel and a Firkin, or a Hogshead, from a Quarter of brown Malt, and sell it for Twenty-three Shillings, per Barrel. But this is govern'd by the Price of the Customer; so that two or three Sorts are sometimes carried out from one Brewing, for with the Blew they can lower it at plea- sure; always observing that the higher the Malt is dried the cooler the first Liquor or Water must be taken or used; therefore the first Wort governs the second Liquor either to be hotter or cooler. If that was too hot you may know it by its bearing too great a Head or Froth in the Receiver; for a midling Head Glows the first Liquor to have been taken right. CHAP V. Working Beer and Ale after the old Way. AS I have all along, in the several foregoing Opera- tions endeavoured to preserve the more pure, light, and subtil Parts of the Water, Malt, Wort and Hops. I shall here likewise do the same in Fer- mentation. In the Working of Beer, and Ale, the Spirits have the greatest Opportunity of making their Escape, and therefore here is the Place for your chiefest Care, that the Fermentation may be brought cool and leisurely under the close Cover of a Lid and Cloaths to preserve the Spirits; for if you put your Nose over it while it is working, you will find the Strength ready to suffocate you; which plainly shews it emits a great deal of spirituous Effluvia, that will fly away if not kept well in, as you may also prove by putting a lighted Candle a little down under the Cover and it will extinguish it. But if the Fer- mentation 142 The whole Art of COOKERY mentation is not thus confined, your Candle will re- main lighted, because the Spirits will then evaporate freely. After the new Way. THIS is very different from the old; for by this the Use of Tubs and working Tubs are wholly laid aside, on account of the great Loss of Spirits that such open Utensils expose the Drink to, that here have such a free Communication with the circumambient Air, as to be influenced by it in a most plenary Manner; so that if too free an Access to the aerial Particles is de- terimental to the Malt-Liquor, here is full Liberty for their Action. To prevent which, take a little Wort before it is quite cold, and mix it with some Yeast; when it is fermented, put it into a Hogshead or Butt, and on that let the Wort run out of the Back, or pour it out your Tubs as fine as possible, and as cool as the Season will permit. Then stop up the Bung-hole in the Head with a turned Piece of Wood wrapped round with wetted brown Paper, and let the Yeast work out of a common Cork-hole made in the Front of the upright Cask within about an Inch of the upper Head, by a little Piece of Leather nailed under it, and a wooden Spout under that, to convey the Yeast into a Tub on the Ground; so will you enjoy a Drink much stronger, finer, and better relished, than when worked and tunned after the old Fashion: For this Way causes the Beer or Ale to taste smooth and retain a brisk, lively Quality to the last. But then such Working must be in a right Manner, neither too much nor too little. If in the first Degree, it will be apt to boil in the Cask in Summer almost like the Motion in a Copper, and bring it under a stale Hard- ness, make it taste harsh in the Mouth, and give too deep a Colour to the paler Sort of Drink: For this Reason 143 made Plain and Easy. Reason some will follow this Method of fermenting it all together in the Cask only in Winter and not in Summer. If in the second Degree, it will be always sputtering and never fine. But the Danger of these Extreams will not be very hazardous where Care and Judgment attend the Work, and so may be performed at any time in the Year with Safety, tho' the Equi- noxes or most temperate Seasons are certainly the best. Besides which, here is a great deal of Waste prevent- ed that always accompanies the Vat, Tun, Pump, Pail, or Jett, used in working Malt-Liquors after the old Way. And if there is almost half the Waste of Wort saved in boiling Malt-Liquors by a Copper-back, there is also a Waste of the Drink prevented that otherwise would happen if worked in the open Tub or Tun: And to prove the great Benefit of this Me- thod, make but an Experiment even in your small Beer, and you will find, that worked in the Cask, stronger, pleasanter, and will keep longer, than that first worked in an open Vessel, and afterwards put into the Barrel, which consequently must likewise render it much wholsomer, than Drink fermented in the open Tun, because by this Means it is furnished with a great Plenty of its own original Spirits, that other- wise would certainly make their Escape, and the Li- quor become flat and weak. So that in my humble Opinion, (and I hope it will become general in a few Years) no Drink made from Malt will be esteemed, but what is brewed by infusing or boiling the Hops a little while, according to these my Directions, and worked only in the upright Cask, as I have here directed. To forward Fermentation. IF you have but little, or if you have bad Yeast mix a little Sugar, Flour, and Salt with it, and some warm Wort, 144 The whole Art of COOKERY Wort, or Beer, and it will raise it, and make it go a great way in working Beers and Ales. So it will if mixed with Grounds of strong Beer, and will make it both to bake Bread and work Beers and Ales, and the sooner if you let the Mixture lay by a Fire. But some for a Make-shift will mix only hot Water and Sugar with stale Yeast, and recover it fit for Service. Others will knead Bean Flour with Water into a Dough, and put it into the Wort. Or if you put Wort into a Vessel on its Grounds, it will ferment it, provided it is not four; but the Grounds will not work the Wort if put among it in an open Tub. Others when Drink is backward in working will put some Stone-Lime into it. Salt, Pepper, and Flour, mixed together will make Drink work that would not before. Pow- dered Ginger alone will help. Or Ginger, Brandy, and Flour mixed together. Or a Gallon Stone-Bottle filled with hot Water. Or in case you can get no Yeast, Honey, Sugar, Leaven, or Treacle, will do it alone. Or Flour, Salt, and Whites of Eggs mixed with Treacle. Or by putting a Chaffing-dish of live Coals under the Bottom of a Tub or Tun. Or by using some Salt of Tartar. But in particular be very careful not to break the young yeasty Head, for this Cover helps the viscid Body of the Wort to keep in the Spirits; for all Fermentation is much promoted by rest, Also to supply the Want of common Yeast, in Gentlemens Houses distant from Towns, I have heard, they cut and beat Isinglass small and fine, which being four Ounces in Quantity, they mix with two Quarts of stale Beer; then let it stand in Infusion 'till dissolved, but without stirring it; then draw pour off the Beer, and keep the thick Part in a Pan before the Fire, so as just to keep it warm, and in about two or three Hours time, it will rise and fer- ment 145 made Plain and Easy. ment and look like Yeast; and then it is fit to use, either to work Drink with, or to bake Bread, If your Yeast is fourish it will be apt to fox your Drink. If you work your Drink too hot, you may expect to have it quickly fall, and either fox, or be flat, and suddenly stale. You may make as much Yeast as will lay on a Crown-piece work a Thousand Barrels, by first putting it into a Pint, then a Quart, and so on. All new Drink must be tunned before it falls, or else it loses its Spirits, Some are so ignorantly covetous that they will reserve out some raw Wort, and set it a working in order to save the Waste of it in boiling; the Consequence may likely cause a sweet and bitter disagreeable Taste in the Drink, and afterwards brings it into a prick'd Condition. Yeast will be good two Months together, if cold Water is put upon such thick Yeast as is settled at the Bottom of a Tub, and poured off once a Week, and fresh immediately put on. Or when the Drink is working, put into the Vat, a Whisk, Hasle-rod, Broom, or a Branch of Juniper, or Furze, and let it lay all the time it is fermenting; then take it and hang it up in a dry Place, and though it be Six or Eight Months before it is used, it will be sweet and serviceable for the next Brewing. Or when strong Drink works slowly through the Vi- scidity or Calmminess of the fermenting Liquor, or Coldness of the Season, a few live Coals or new made Wood-ashes will remedy that Inconveniency; by dis- solving the oleaginous Particles and separating them, the alkaline Salt in the Ashes being excellently adapted for this Purpose; the same Effect will be produced by a little Salt of Tartar, or on Onion dipped in strong Mustard, or a Ball made of Quick Lime. Wheat Flour, and the White of an Egg beat up into a Paste, a Piece of which being thrown in will occasion a new H Fermen- 146 The whole Art of COOKERY Fermentation: But theSe last are only to be used when you are sure this Defeat proceeds solely from the Thickness of the Liquor; for otherwise these volatile and fiery saline Substances will so break and divide the Texture of the Fluid, that with themselves they will make way for all the contained spirituous Particles to fly off at the Surface. An excellent Method to preserve a constant Stock of Yeast. WHEN you can spare Yeast, take a Quantity, stir and work it well with a Whisk, 'till it seems liquid and thin. Then get a large wooden Dish, or Tub, clean and dry, and with a soft Brush lay a thin Layer of the Yeast thereon, turning the Mouth downwards, to prevent its getting Dust, but so that the Air may come to it to dry it: When that Coat or Crust, is sufficiently dryed, lay on another, which serve in the same Manner, and continue putting on others, as they dry, 'till it is two or three Inches thick, which will be useful on many Occasions: But be sure the Yeast in the Vessel be dry, before more be laid on. When wanted for Use, cut a Piece, lay it in warm Water, stir it together, and it will be fit for Use: If for Brewing, take a Handful of Birch, tied together, dip it into the Yeast, and hang it to dry, taking care of Dust getting at it. When your Beef is fit to let to work, throw in one of these and it will Work as well as if you had fresh Yeast: You must whip it about in the Wort, and then let it lie: When the Beer works well, take out the Broom, dry it again, and it will do for the next Brewing. CHAP. VI. The CELLER-MAN. WOEFUL Experience shews the Want of this Art in those who are ignorant in a Cellar of Malt- Liquors, 147 made Plain and Easy. Liquors, by the great Number of Vessels of Drink which are annually damaged or spoiled on this very Account. For this Reason, some think that a well qualified Person who has under his Care great Quan- tities of Beers and Ales is no less useful than a skilful Brewer; for though the latter, is the prior Workman in preparing and finishing Liquors for the Cellar in a short Time, yet is the former engaged sometimes Years together to preserve and keep in due order his several Sorts, that their Owner may not sustain any Damage by Leakage, ill scented Casks, Staleness, Ro- pyness, Foulness, or any other Incident; but that through the Skill and good Management of this Person such Liquors be improved even beyond that natural Order the Brewer left them in. On this Account also may Victuallers, as well as private Persons, be- come Curers of their own Drinks, which by these Means they may improve after their own Taste, with- out being confined to the Caprice of a Cooper, or the Nigggardliness of his Matter: For I know some Brewers that are seldom at a greater Expence than Elder-berries and Isinglass for their brown Drinks, and but little otherwise for their Pale; which brings to my Me- mory, the Expression of a Person who invited his Friend to a good Pot of Drink; says he, if you will go to a House I know off, we shall be sure to have right, for this Man never fails of having excellent Drink in his Cellar. Of Foxing, Bucking, or Charning Malt-Liquors. THREE Synonimous Terms for what in London they call only by the Name of Foxing; but in some Parts by other two. I shall endeavour to write such Receipts, as I hope will contribute to its great Service, if not a Cure, and make such Damaged Drinks whol- some and pleasant. H2 First 148 The whole Art COOKERY First Receipt. TAKE a large Handful of Hyssop out of a Garden, and cut it small; with this mix a small Handful of Salt, and put all into a Hogshead of ropy Drink, and in two Weeks it will be clear, if you stir the Vessel well when it is put in, and let the Ingredients remain to the last, stopping all close directly. Second Receipt for ropy Drink. TWO Handfuls of Bean Flour, half the Quantity of Salt; throw this into a sixteen Gallon Cask of Beer, but do not stop it 'till it has done fermenting; let it stand about a Month, and it will be fit for Use. Third Receipt. I Knew a Person catched in his Brewing with this Disease, by means of a Tub that the Servant had used in Washing, and put by without scouring or scalding; for all Soap naturally leaves a white Furr behind it on the Sides of the Tub, which by drying on encreases its Acidity, and turns the Wort into what we call a foxed ropy Condition, in some measure, as Rennet does Milk. Now as Hops are of an active, rigid Nature, they are certainly an Enemy to the ramous Quality of the corrupted Drink, by piercing and cutting through the cohering Parts. For which, take a Parcel of fresh, strong Hops (according to the Quantity and Property of the Drink in the Vessel, and put into an Earthen, glazed Pot, with a little Salt of Tartar; then pour on them boiling Water enough for the Hops to infuse in like Tea, cover- ing the Pot very close to keep all the Steam in. When cold strain the Liquor off, pour it into your Vessel, and stop it close directly. Fourth Receipt. TAKE an Ounce of beaten Allum, with two Ounces of Mustard-seed bruised and an Ounce of 149 made Plain and Easy. of rased Ginger, likewise well bruised; put all into half a Hogshead of foxed, ropy Drink, and it will easier cure this Misfortune in the Barrel than in the Ton; because in the latter, the Efficacy of the Re- medy will work off with the Yeast to a great degree. This Composition will break the ropy Parts of the Drink and fine it well. Fifth Receipt. I Knew a great common Brewer experienced a Secret that absolutely cured his foxed Drink, which was in the following Manner, viz. At every Brewing after he had strained the Sweepings of his Coolers through a Flannel-Bag, (as they all do) he runs through the same Part of his damaged strong Drink, and put it into a Barrel by itself, and so on, some every Brew- ing 'till all was done, and it proved an entire Cure. Sixth Receipt. TAKE Ash, or rather Beechen Billets, and let their Ashes run through a Wire-Sieve fiery hot into the Drink while in the Tun. If you put foxed Drink into a Barrel, and let it remain some Time, the Vessel wil not be tainted by it, but will be sweet and good or only Washing it, first with cold, and then with salding Water: The Reason is, the Joints of the Saves are so close by the Force of the Hoops, that the Liquor has not Room to penetrate as in the square Tuns and Coolers. But above all 'tis the diligent, cleanly Brewer that escapes this Damage, when the indolent Sloven is in for it. Of the first Sort, some are so curious, as not to suffer a Pail to be dipt in cold Water, but to be scalded before it is used again. Others will allow a good Distance of time before they brew again, that the Utensils may be thoroughly cleaned and dried; for all seasoned Tuns, Tubs, and Casks are capable even of themselves to excite and H3 bring 150 The whole Art of COOKERY bring new Worts into a Fermentation in time. So likewise Worts that are laid too deep in Coolers in warm Weather will ferment of themselves, in no great distance of time, without the help of Yeast: The same in Winter though more slow: For this reason some are so justly nice as to lay them but two or three Inches Thick, while others will venture them six or eight, to make haste for the next Piece of Wort to succeed, and then often the Fox is bred. It's true, that it is best working Beers and Ales in reason'd Tuns and Tubs, because the Powers of the former fermen- ted Liquor that remained in the Wood will commu- nicate its Quality to the next Wort, and impregnate it with its fermenting Parts, and so forward the Ope- rations much sooner than any new Back, Tun, or Tub, that will rather drink its Spirits, work it more slow, and leave the Drink vapid and weak. A Kilderkin of fox'd Drink Cured. A Fortnight after it had been in the Vessel, it vas racked off into another, and then two Pound of Malaga Raisins were cut in Bits and hung in a Bagby a String, that at a Month's End were taken out, left after they had emitted their Sweetness an Acidty should ensue; besides which, a Mixture of Treace, Bean-Flour, Mustard-Seed bruited, and Allum pow- dered, were added; which not only cured the fox Part, but also a burnt Tang that the Malt gave the Liquor. A new Method of Seasoning new Casks. PUT the Staves just cut and shaped, before they are worked into Vessels, loose in a Copper of cold Water, and let them heat gradually so that they must be well boiled, and in boiling take out a Hand-bowl of Water at a Time, putting in fresh 'till all the Re- ness is out of the Liquor, and it become clear from a Scum 151 made Plain and Easy. Scum of Filth that will arise from the Sap so boiled out: Also take care to turn the Staves upside down, that all their Parts may equally have the Benefit of the hot Water. Observe also that in a dry, sultry Sum- mer the Sap is more strongly retained in the Wood, than in a cool and moist one, and therefore must have the more boiling. Then when the Vessel is made, scald it twice with Water and Salt boiled together, and then you may boldly fill it with strong Beer with- out fearing any Tang from the Wood. To keep empty Casks sweet. I Knew a Person that brews his Drink for publick Sale, so curious in this Affair, that though he has red Clay before his Door in plenty, yet will never use it for stopping or bunging his Vessels, saying it will make the Bung-hole stink in a little Time, even though it is mixed with Bay-salt; and therefore makes use of a wooden Bung, which as soon as he has put into the Vessel with some brown Paper, he directly mixes some Wood-Ashes with Water and puts it all about the same, with as much care as if the Cask had been full of strong Drink, though it is done only to keep the Grounds sweet while they are so. And thus a Vessel may be preserved in found Order near half a Year; for it is the Air that makes them stink; but if the Grounds are stale or four before this is done, then it will not answer. To sweeten very stinking or musty Casks. FIRST I make a strong Lee of Ash, Beech, or other hard Wood-Ashes, and pour it boiling hot into the Bung-hole, and repeat the same if there is Oc- casion. This is a most searching Thing that will pene- trate into the Pores and minuted; Crevices, and over- come this horrid Misfortune. H4 The 152 The whole Art of COOKERY The second Way. Is done by Malt-dust boiled in Water, and immedi- ately poured off into the stinking or musty Cask, where it must be well bunged in for some Time. The third and best Way is, WHAT I have thoroughly experienced to answer the full End of sweetning a stinking and musty Cask, even beyond the Cooper's firing; and that is to fill your Vessel with boiling Water, near, but not quite to the Brim, and then directly put in Pieces of unslack'd Stone-Lime, which will presently set the Water a boiling, that must still be fed on with more Pieces 'till the Ebullition has continued half an Hour at least, but if very bad, longer: And after you have so done, bung all down, and let it remain, 'till it is almost cold and no longer, least the Lime at bottom harden too much, and it be difficult to wash out. In this Manner you may make the Water boil in the Cask as in a Copper, and by the subtile Salts of the Lime, it will make its way into the Pores and Chinks of the Wood, so as to extirpate all ill Scent and Taste, provided the Taint has not quite got through the whole Wood. A fourth Way. Is to mix Bay-Salt with boiling Water, and pour it into the stinking or musty Cask, which must be bunged down directly, and let remain some time to soak. A fifth Way. IS to take the Head out of the Cask, and burn some Pitch on a Chaffing-dish of Coals, clapping the loose Head on again while the Fire burns; When this is done, burn some Frankincense in the same manner to sweeten the Vessel, though Pitch of itself is not bad. To 153 Made Plain and Easy. To preserve Brewing Tubs sweet and clean. A Nottingham Woman-Brewer is always so careful to keep her cooling Tubs sweet and clean, that she never fails, as soon as she has done brewing, to rub the Inside of them with a Brush and scalding Wa- ter; then sets them by, and never fears the Fox. But if there is any Yeast or Furr left on their Sides, its a Chance if the next Wort does not ferment into a creamy Head, and Fox. To Fine, Relish, and Preserve a Butt of strong Beer. TAKE a Gallon of Wheat-Flour, six Pounds of Melasses, four Pounds of Malaga Raisins, one Handful of Salt; make it into Dumplins, and put them into the Bung-hole in the Head as soon as you have racked the Drink into another Butt. To Recover a Butt of flat brown Beer, and to fine and Mellow stale, pricked, and soul Drinks. TAKE a Handful of Salt, and as much Chalk scraped down fine and well dried on a Plate before the Fire; then take Isinglass and dissolve it in stale Beer 'till it is about the Consistence of a Syrup; which strain, and add a Quart of it to the Salt and Chalk, and also two Quarts of Melasses mixed first all toge- ther with a Gallon of the Drink, and put it into the Butt. Then with a Staff slit into four at the lower End, stir the racked Beer well about 'till it ferments, on which immediately stop it up very close, and in Eight and Forty Hours you may draw it. To Fine and keep Malt Drinks. IT has been many Years a Custom with some to do this by boiling, either Ivory, or Hartshorn Sha- vings in the Wort; about one Pound to a Hogshead I think will do. Most of it will dissolve in the Liquor, for after it is well boiled, there will be but little per- ceived. This not only fines the Drink by its gluti- H5 nous 154 The whole Art Of COOKERY nous Disolution, which by its Gravity drives down the lighter Fæces, but it also preserves it found and healthy by reason of its alcalious Nature. However you must take Care not to use it in too great a Quan- tity, because then it will certainly give the Beer or Ale an urinous Taste, and also make it rope. To stop the Fretting of Drink. BOIL three or four Ounces of fresh Hops in a Bag a few Minutes, then dry them in the Sun, or otherwise, put them into the Cask in which the Drink frets and it will cure it. To Fine, keep Sounds and add a Flavour to pale Drinks. TAKE white Pebble-Stones and bake in an Oven 'till they crack, then beat them to a Powder, therewith mix a good Parcel of Syrup of white Elder- berries, which are now pretty common (or Honey, but this is apt to turn Acid) or Treacle: To this add Lemon-peel, and a few Sprigs of Clary if you think fit, while it is in Seed. Put these into a Butt of pale strong Beer or Ale as soon as it is racked off, and stir all together well with a Paddle. To Fine and keep pale Drink from Fretting. TAKE a Pound of Rice, dry it, and beat it very small, with a Penny-worth of powdered Allum, and a Handful of powdered fat Chalk; for Chalk is a great Absorbent, and with other Ingredients carries down the Fæces, and keeps them from damaging the strong Drink. But in time the Salt and Sulphur of such Fæces will tincture the whole Mass to its preju- dice; therefore when the Drink is fine, rack it off, and feed it with Rice, Allum, and Chalk as afore- said. To 155 made Plain and Easy. To Renew and Fine the Bottoms of Casks, or any flat Drink. TAKE one Pound and a half of Sugar, and boil it in Water, when cold add a little Yeast, when fermented put it into a Firkin of such Liquor, and it will set the Whole a working, and make it drink brisk and pleasant. To Recover ropy, flat, or pricked Drink without put- ting any Ingredients into the Vessel. THEY roll and tumble the Barrel backwards and forwards up and down a Stilling, 'till they have thoroughly broke the caked hard Fæces, and thus bring the Liquor under a fresh Fermentation, so strong as almost to endanger the Head or Hoops flying off, if kept stopt. Then after it has stood a while and settled, they peg and draw it. If once serving it thus does not answer, it must be repeated 'till it does. Once performing this Operation, recovered a large Cellar full of strong Beer in Norwich, which, though it was roped after an extraordinary Manner, and not saleable (but well tasted) yet by this Management they were courted for it, even by another Brewer, who bought most of it. To Fine any Sort of Drink. TAKE the best staple Isinglass, cut it small with Scissars and boil one Ounce in three Quarts of Beer; let it lay all Night to cool; this dissolved, put it into your Hogshead next Morning perfectly cold; for if it is but as warm as new Milk, it will jelly all the Drink. The Beer or Ale in a Week after should be tapt, else it's apt to flat, for this Ingredient Flats as well as Fines, and therefore is now more in Difuse than formerly; but remember to stir it thoroughly well with a wooden Paddle, when the Isinglass is put into the Cask. A second 156 the whole Art of COOKERY A second Way. PUT two or three Handfuls of small red Gravel, or Hetter scouring Sand into a Barrel, stir it well about and it will answer. A third Way. BOIL a Pint of Wheat in two Quarts of Water, then squeeze out the liquid Part through a fine Linen Cloth. Put a Pint of it into a twelve or six- teen Gallon Cask of Ale, it not only fines but pre- serves. A fourth Way. SOME Brewers put, for fining and heightning the Colour of brown Beer, five or six Quarts of pick'd Elderberries into a Pail of Isinglass Beer. In time they will dissolve in the Beer, or you may squeeze and strain them through a Sieve, and then it is fit for Use. To Fine and Feed Drink a fifth Way. TAKE the Whites of three Eggs and their Shells, and-mix with Flour of Horse-Beans made fine, (that have been split and dried on the Kiln) but none of the Husk, and some clean Brandy, make it all up with some Treacle, and put it into a Kilderkin. A sixth Way. THEY will take Hops that have been boiled Twenty or Thirty Minutes in a first Wort, and dry them again; then put half a Pound into a Kilder- kin, and it will fine it very well; and are better than fresh unboiled Hops; because these will gather, some into a Head, and some settle, and so are apt to soul the Drink in Draught. Others have used green Hops off the Vine, when they have been near ripe, and put into a Vessel, that answered very well. A seventh 157 made Plain and Easy. A severth Way. IT is the Practice of a certain Man, whenever he happens to have any Drink too stale, to put some scalding Water on Hops under a Cover; where after having infused some time, he puts all into the Bung- hole to fine, recover, and preserve the same. To keep small Beer without Hops. ANOTHER uses no Hops in making his small Beer, all the Winter especially, but instead thereof, mixes a Penny-worth of Treacle with a Handful of Wheat and Bean-Flour, to which he adds a Penny-worth of beaten Ginger, and kneads it into a due Consistence, which he puts into a Hogshead and bungs up. The Method of a private Family to improve their Drink. THEY never Tun without putting a little Salt and A powdered Ginger mixed together into it. Musty Drink. IS occasioned by musty Vessels, it is cured by run- ning it through the Grains. To preserve Drink that is to he sent Abroad. DRAW off the Ale, or Beer into a clean Cask; then pound some slit, dried Horse-Beans, free of their Hulls, 'till they are well powdered, or made so by grinding them in a Mill: With this mix a little Yeast and knead it; then dry it by a Fire; but not in an Oven, because it may be too hot for this Use. The Quantity of a small Dumplin will serve for a Hogshead. To help decayed Drink. SOME will put the Ashes of Beech into a Bag which they will let hang in the Liquor by a String, and bung close; some put Horse-Beans into the Drink to 158 The whole Art of COOKERY to preserve it mellow, but too many will give it a disagreeable bitter Tang. When Beer is sour proceed thus: TO a Kilderkin of Beer throw in a Quart of Oat- Meal, leave the Bung loose for three or four Days, after which stop it close; let it stand a Month, and it will be fit for Use. Or thus: Throw in a Lump of Chalk of about half a Pound; and when it has done working, stop it close for five or six Weeks before you tap it. In Lincolnshire they proceed thus: WHEN sour or foul Beer, they throw in at the Bung-hole a Piece of unslaked Lime (accord- ing to the Size of the Vessel, about a Pound to a Kil- derkin) leaving the Bung loose two or three Days; then stop it close, and it will be fit for Use in about a Month. To Cure a Hogshead of sour Ale or Beer. TAKE a Pound and a half of Oister Shell Powder, half an Ounce of Cream of Tartar, the like Quantity of Bay-salt, and one Ounce and a half of Isinglass.—If Sour, take four or five Pounds of Mutton cut in Pieces, four Ounces of Egg Shells dried, and half an Ounce of Salt of Tartar; put these into the Calks, and your Liquor will soon be restored to its first Perfection.—Note, The above Quantity of Ingredients are for half a Hogshead of either Ale or Beer; if the Liquor be more in Quantity, the In- gredients must: be increased in Proportion thereto. Vamping Malt Liquors. IS of late much in Practice for its excellent Service in recovering, preserving, and fining strong Oc- tober and March Beers in particular; because by a new Fermentation the whole Body of the old Drink is re- newed and brought under a fresh Nature; and thus a Butt 159 made Plain and Easy. Butt of such Liquor need never suffer Damage or be spoiled by Staleness or Age, since you may alter the Case at pleasure. The Way to do it is thus: Divide your Butt into two Parts by racking it off, then fill both up with new Drink of the same Sort, and in three Weeks or a Month you may draw it off fine. The new Way of Managing strong Drink from the Tunning to the Drawing. TO do this there is more than one Way used. One Person I know never stops the Cork-hole of the upright Butt, but lets it alone a Month, two, or three, 'till he perceives the Drink well settled, and then racks it off into another Butt, with two Pounds of new Hops, which he immediately stops up at both Bung and Cork-hole. Another leaves his Cork-hole open only a Month, and then stops it up; then about a Month before he draws for good, he takes out a little of the same Beer, and puts it on two Pounds of rubbed new Hops, which he pours into the Cask, and stops all close and secure. Another lets his large Cask of three Hogsheads stand, with an open Vent, six Months, only with a Piece of brown Paper pasted be- fore the Cock-hole; and then he puts in two Pounds of Hops that had been boiled but twenty Minutes In a first Wort, and dried, and one good Handful of Salt; then directly stops all very close. In about a Month's Time it will be fine and fit to draw and be brisk to the last. But others are so nice in this Point, that instead of keeping these boiled Hops dried by them, they so contrive to brew, that they may have them directly, to put into the Casks of Beer which they want to fine down, just as they are done with; and say, that for this purpose an used Hop boiled but a little While, is better than an entire dry one, because the former will sink and drive down the Fæces pre- sently, 160 The whole Art of COOKERY sently, when the fresh ones are apt to remain on the Top. On these Accounts People differ, some will fine without Racking, others will rack before they fine; some will use Salt, others none but Hops. But when they intend to tap their Butt-Beer at four Months old, they always use Salt with the Hops: For Salt stales Malt Liquors in four Months, as much as twelve Months Age will do without it. And as for the leaving open the Cork-hole Vent, I am of Opini- on, that Malt Liquors digest and maturate in the Cask in some measure, as Food does in the Stomach, and thus become more fitted for the animal Secretions by a due Age, which must be more or less according to the Strength of them. Therefore it's the Practice of some not to stop up the Cork-hole for six Months together, on purpose to expose the Drink all that time to the free Admission of the Air, which will rush in, and, by its Elasticity and Pressure, throw down the gross Particles, keep it from fretting, and thereby fine and ripen it the sooner. The Racking of Malt Liquors. DREGS (in my Opinion) consist of the earthy and farinaceous Parts, mixed with the acrid Salts of the Compound the Liquor is made up of, and intrin- fically contain no Spirit but what they absorb from it; which Salts not being fixed, are capable by sundry Causes to be incited into Motion, and so cause extra Fermentations, which, when frequent, so exhaust the Spirit of the Drink as to get the Ascendant, and ren- der it vapid, four and ill tasted. But I remember the Assertion of a certain Person to be otherwise, who said that the Lee of any Liquor is the strongest Part of it, but most and soonest subject to spoil and corrupt, and so long as that holds good the Liquor seeds on it, but after such a critical Time it will spoil the Drink, and this 161 made Plain and Easy. this he says is the Cause for Racking; but how rea- sonable this is I leave others to determine. Some are so curious in the Observation of this, that they will not draw off their Drink into another Cask, before it has passed a second Fermentation in the first Butt, and this happens sooner or later, by the Quantity of Fæces, the Temper of the Air, and the Place it stands in is; the Crown of Yeast that lies just below the Cork-hole (while it remains on) securing it from taking damage several Months together; And when they do not rack it, such Beer is accounted in best Order when it is drawn after the middle Hole is stopt up, because it has the greater Feed from the remaining Fæces. Observe also, that the Cask you intend to receive your rack'd off Liquor in, Should always be first seasoned by the Steam of a Brimstone Rag, which will effectually stop it's Fermentation and fine it. I must likewise hint that it's too common a Way with some to drive the Brass Cock with a Hammer or Mallet into the middle Hole of the Butt, and then very likely the Crown of Yest falls down, and the Drink grows vapid, flat, and thick; so also are those liable to the same Incon- veniences who thus inconsiderately peg a Cask. To Bottle Malt Liquors. THIS is certainly a great Improvement if perform'd in a right Time and Manner, because Drink thus confined is more free from Air, Heat, and Fæces, than in a Barrel, which often exposes its Spirits to Loss by Vent and frequent Drawings out. But the greatest Improvement of all, is when Drink becomes flat and deadened by the Casks absorbing its Spirits, or that the Sediments have attracted them, &c. In all which Cases Bottling often recovers the Liquor and re-establishes it in a greater Fineness, Purity, and Briskness than ever, and especially if an additional proper 162 The whole Art of COOKERY proper Food be allowed it that will give it a long Du- ration in a safe mellow and cool Condition, and the surer if kept from heat and corked well. In this Oeco- nomy particular Regard ought to be had to the Age of the Liquor, that it be full ripe and not too young when it is bottled; if it is, very likely it will throw out the Cork or burst the Bottles; which to prevent, cork loose at first, and afterwards firm; and if after this a Ferment is perceived, loosen again. Stone Bottles are not so good as Glass, because of their rough Inside, that is sooner apt to furr, taint and leak, their Mouths uneven to Cork, and their Sides not to be seen through. Some are so curious as to use the Glass Stopple instead of the Cork, which if rightly sitted, admits of no penetration, as is well known to the Chymist, who by this means retains the Spirits of his fiery Liquors in the best Manner. You may for a Day or two after bottling keep the Bottles in cold Water or in a cold Place, or have some cold Water now and then thrown over them, to prevent any Fer- ment coming on, least the Air, by being thus closely confined, should break the Bottles, when a Cork in the room of a Glass Stopple would save them as being of a porous Nature. Glass Bottles are sweetned and cleaned either by hot or cold Water, if stinking put them in a Kettle of cold and boil them, but do not put them down while hot on a cold Place, least they crack; then lay them on dry Boards, Straw, or Cloth; if dirty, wash with hard Sand, small Stones, or better with Shot. Some steep Corks in scalding Water to make them more pliable to the Mouths of the Bottles and to fill up their Pores, and for a further Security fasten them in with small Iron Wire twisted about, after the Herefordshire Fashion, that they practise in bottling their fine Styre Cyder. Weak Drink sooner breaks 163 made Plain and Easy. breaks Bottles than Strong, because the Liquor has not Strength enough to detain the Spirits. To pre- serve Drink in Bottles, lay them side-ways to keep the Cork moist, the Air out, and confine it to the Side, where it cannot escape, a Way much better than putting the Mouth downwards in a Frame; for then if there be any Fæces they will come out at first, Putting Bottles in Sand in some measure keeps them from the Power of the Air, but this is not quite so good as if they were kept in Water, which prevents Fretting or Fermentation, and adds a Strength to the Drink by its intense Coldness, which likewise checks the Activity of its Spirits, and by its close Body keeps out Air especially if it is spring Water. For this Pur- pose in many Cellars there may be Tanks or Cisterns made to hold Water either with Stone or Brick by the help of Plaister of Paris, or with a cementing Com- position made of Oil, new flaked Lime, and a little Cotton-Wool, that will harden the more, the longer the Water lies in them: Or lay such Stone or Brick in a Bed of Clay beaten and trod very fine before, so that it may be a Foot thick at least on all the Sides and Bottom, as the Brewers order their Tuns; and to empty them at pleasure, a Hand-pump of a small Size may be made use of; or in Cellars there may be large Holes made in the Side-Walls that will contain a Number of Bottles, as is commonly done in the Country, and the nearer these are to the Ground the better the Liquor will keep. But if this Way be too Troublesome, little Vaults may be built in the Cellar, arched over, that may be made so close as to keep out much Air, and so prevent the Damage that Drinks are subject to from their changeable Nature: On the contrary, if you have a mind to have your Bottle- drink soon ripe, keep it above Ground. When 164 The whole Art of COOKERY When Malt Liquors are to be bottled off, observe the following Directions. Common strong brown Beer of eight or nine Bushels to the Hogshead, brewed in October, may, if free and clear of Ferment, be bottled off at Midsummer; pale strong Beer brewed in March, may be bottled off at Christmas, under the same Proviso; But always forbear this Work when it's Muddy by Change of Weather, or the falling down of the Crown of Yeast, because then the Drink goes through some Alterations that thicken and work it in a small Degree, which causes the Lees at last to receive the Spirits, that are hereby made smaller by the Transaction, and from hence the Liquor is fed 'till it is ripe for Bottling. To feed bottled Beer of Ale there are several Ways. First put three Horse- Beans into each Bottle of strong Beer, and it will preserve it mellow a long Time. Secondly, put into a Quart of Spring Water half a Pound of Sugar, (the finer the better) and a Pennyworth of Cloves; boil all together moderately half an Hour, and scum it well in that Time; when cold put two Spoonfuls into each Bottle that is to be kept long, and three to be drank soon; it is such a great Improvement that it is generally made use of by some Publicans to recover their Tap-droppings, which it will do in two or three Days, if the Bottle is kept in a warm Place. To keep Bottles from bursting, make a Hole in the middle of the Cork with a Nail or Awl, and the Bottle will never burst, it will keep out the Wind, because the Moisture of the Drink will swell it: Or put into each Bottle one or two Pepper-Corns, and it will never fly. The common Way of making Drink ripe presently is to boil some coarse Sugar in Water, and when cold, work it with little Yeast, of this put two, three, or four Spoonful into a Bottle with two Cloves over Night, 165 made Plain and Easy. Night, and if it stands in a warm Place, it will be ready next Day, and be very apt to swell the Belly of the Drinkers with its windy, unwholsome, yeasty Quality. Others will do this Feat more quickly, even in the time of a Mug of Liquor is bringing out of the Cellar, though it be Tap-droppings; they will put a Piece of Diaper or Damask over the Pot or Mug, and with a Jirk turn it Topsey-turvey and back again, which with a Jolt or two more, will cause a frothy Head in Imitation of bottled Drink. Or if Drink is a little pricked or fading, put to it a little Syrup of Clary, and let it ferment with a little Barm, and it will recover it, and when it is well settled, bottle it up, putting in a Clove or two with a Lump of Sugar into each Bottle. A private Person used to bottle off a clear Ale by boiling a Bag of Wheat in the Wort. Another would put a Spoonful of sugared Water into each Bottle. Another would have clear Drink to Bottle off, by put- ting two or three Chalk-Stones into the Barrel, or Powder of Chalk. Thus by trying frequent Experiments, of adding more or less to any of the foregoing Receipts, accord- ing to your Palate, you will arrive to the Knowledge of discerning at at first view what every particular Subject requires or will bear: And remember that all Liquors must be fine before they are bottled, or they will grow sharp and ferment in the Bottles, and will never be good. THE 166 The whole Art of COOKERY THE Compleat Family DISTILLER. BEFORE We enter upon the Business of Distillery, it may not be improper to make our Readers per- fectly acquainted with the Nature of it. In Books of Chemistry we see a Variety of Stills in different Forms, but there are only two Sorts that are useful; and these are the common Stills with a Worm Tub, and the Bucket Headed ones. The Still with a Worm Tub is fittest for making Simple Waters; but that with a Bucket Head is useful for Cordial Waters in a Family; the other be- ing rather adapted to larger Quantities. That the Reader may be the better acquainted with what distilling is, it will be proper to observe, That when a Pot boils a Steam always rises; this Steam is the Water itself, only in a lighter Form. These Vapours by being condensed with Cold become Wa- ter again, as may be observed by only putting a Lid or Cover upon a boiling Pot, where you will find it form the Steam into Drops. The Still is an open Pot, but instead of a Lid, a Head is put on it; this is hollow, and has a through which the Vapour finds its Way: When there is a Worm Tub the Head is naked and hot, and the Vapour running through the Worm, which is a spi- ral Pipe covered with cold Water, there condenses into a Liquid. In the other Way, a Sort of Bucket is fixed round the Head, and cold Water being put into that, the Vapour is turned into Water there, and runs out 167 made Plain and Easy. out at the Pipe or Nose, where a Vessel is placed to receive it. In the other Case, this Vessel is put at the End of the Worm which comes out of the Tub. Take Care that the Head in the Bucket-Still be al- ways kept cool by drawing off the Water in the Buc- ket as fast as it grows at all hot, and putting cold Water in the Place. As to the Worm Tub Still, if the Tub be tolerably large, the Quantity of Water it holds will be sufficient to keep the Worm cool during the Time of distilling the Quantity of any one Water used in a Family without changing; but it should be let out after every Time using, and supplied with fresh, otherwise it will grow stinking and offensive. The Fire must be brisk for Simple Waters, and gentle for Cordial Ones; and if, from its being too violent, either of them boil over, and run thick and foul into the Vessel that is set to receive the Water, the whole must be put back, and distilled over again. The Waters that have powdered Ingredients are most liable to these Accidents. Cinnamon Water is the most apt to boil over of all others, and Care must therefore be taken accordingly. All Things will not yield their Virtues in Water, but most will: The Water of Gentian is not bitter, nor is the Water of Jalap a Purge; but the Water of Penny Royal has all the Virtues of the Herb; and in kke Manner almost any other Herb or Ingredient: And it may serve as an universal Maxim, That all Things whose Virtue lies in their Oil, yield it all by Distillation. To distil Cherry Water. TAKE two Quarts of red Wine, four Pounds of common Cherries, one Ounce of Rosemary, one Ounce of Balm, two Ounces of Cinnamon broken in Sticks, one Dram of Nutmegs, quartered; steep them in 168 The whole Art of COOKERY in an earthen Pot all Night; the next Morning distil them in an ordinary Still, and keep a pretty quick Fire under them; after it is distilled, put to every Quart of Water four Ounces of white Sugar- candy, and hang in it a Bag with a little Musk and Ambergrease; stop it close. It is good in any Weak- ness or Fevers, where other hot Waters cannot be given, to comfort the Stomach and Spirits. Strong Cinnamon Water. TAKE of Cinnamon bruised, two Pounds; Canary, two Quarts; Sherry, four Quarts; Brandy, four Quarts: Distil it in a hot Still, and when it is cold, add to it two Pounds of double-refined Sugar pounded, and after it has stood a-while, rack it off into new Bottles, which will render it fit for use. Cordial Cinnamon Water. TAKE of Cinnamon bruised, twelve Ounces; of Fountain-Water, five Quarts; French Barley, half a Pound; distil it in a cold Still according to Art. Hungary Water. TAKE Flowers of Rosemary twenty Ounces, rec- tified Spirit of Wine three Pints; let them infuse some Days, and then draw off as much as there was Spirit put in. Mint Water. TAKE Mint dried four Pounds; two Gallons and a half of Proof-spirits; three Gallons of Water; distil them, and sweeten with one Pound and a half Sugar. Nutmeg Water. TAKE Nutmegs bruised, half a Pound; Orange- peels, an Ounce; Spirit of Wine rectified, three Gallons, with a sufficient Quantity of Water; distil and sweeten it with two Pounds of Loaf-Sugar. It is a most 169 made Plain and Easy. a most excellent Cephalick and Stomachick Cordial; it helps the Memory, and strengthens the Eye-sight. Compound Horse-radish Water. TAKE the Leaves of both the Scurvy-Grasses, fresh gathered in the Spring, of each six Ounces; add of Brook-lime and Water-cresses, each four Ounces; of Horse-radish-root two Pounds; Arum-root fresh six Ounces; Winter's Bark and Nutmegs, of each four Ounces; Lemon-peels dried two Ounces; French- Brandy two Quarts; draw off by distillation one Gallon. It is good against all Obstructions of the Kidneys and Viscera, and prevails against the Jaun- dice, Weakness of Constitution, and Dropsies; and is of great Service in all Scorbutick Cases. The Dose is from half an Ounce to three or four Ounces, unless at first distilling, and then it must be diluted. You must fix the Worm dose to the Receiver by a Bladder, to prevent Spirits flying away. Compound Wormwood Water. TAKE the outward fresh Rinds ot Lemons, one Pound and a half; Orange-peels, one Pound; Tops of dried Wormwood, Winter's Cinnamon, of each half a Pound; Flowers of Chamomile four Ounces, lesser Cardamums not husk'd, Cloves, Cu- bebs, Camels-hay, of each one Ounce; Cinnamon, Nutmegs, Caraways, of each two Ounces; Spirits of Wine six Quarts, Spring-Water four Gallons and a half; Digest for three Days, then distil in Balneo Mariœ to dryness. It is an excellent Stomachick Water, and a good Cordial. Simple Wormwood Water. TAKE Wormwood dried one Pound, Caraway- Seeds bruised four Ounces, Spirits of Wine three Gallons; infuse them, and distil them, and then put in one Pound and half of Sugar, and keep it for use. I To 170 The whole Art of COOKERY To make Compound Parsley Water. TAKE of Parsley-Roots four Ounces; fresh Horse- radish-root, and Juniper-berries, of each three Ounces; the Tops of St, John's-Wort, Biting Ars- mart, and Elder-Flowers, of each two Ounces; the Seeds of Wild Carrot, Sweet Fennel and Parsley, of each an Ounce and a half: Slice and bruise the Ingre- dients; add thereto two Gallons of French-Brandy, and common Water two Gallons; let them steep together in the Still three or four Days, and then draw off two Gallons. It is good for the Gravel and Stone. A Water for weak Stomachs, Small-Pox, Measles and Surfeits, in great esteem with Queen Elizabeth. TAKE Sage, Celandine, Rosemary, Wormwood, Dragon, Mugwort, Pimpernel, Scabius, Agri- mony, Balm, Scordium, Centaury, Carduus, Betony, Rosa Solis, of each one Ounce; Angelica-roots, Gen- tian, Tormentil-roots, Zedoary-roots, and Liquorice, of each an Ounce; slice the Roots, and shred the Herbs, and put them all together into a Gallon of white-Wine; cover them close, and let them infuse for forty eight Hours; then distil them in an ordinary Still, and keep the Top of the Still cold with wet Cloths; Draw off three Quarts, and keep each Quart by itself. When you take it, sweeten it with Sugar; give a Child two Spoonfuls of the first or second Drawing, or four of the last Drawing: To grown Persons give double the Quantity. Juniper Water. TAKE the best Juniper-berries twelve Ounces, proof Spirit of Wine three Gallons, a sufficient Quantity of Water, and distil them. You may sweeten it with Sugar. It is an excellent Remedy against Wind in the Stomach and Bowels; it power- fully provokes Urine, and is therefore a good Diure- tick in the Gravel and the Jaundice. Lady 171 made Plain and Easy. Lady Brooke's Treacle Water. TAKE the Roots of Elecampane, Gentian, Cy- press, Tormentil, Angelica, of each an Ounce; of the Leaves of our Lady's Thistle, a Handful and a half; Bugloss-Flowers, Borage, Marigold, and Rose- mary, of each two Ounces; of Citron-peels, an Ounce; Venice-treacle, a Pound, dissolved in three Quarts of Sack; one Pint of red-rose Water; a Quart of Carduus-Water: Infuse them all together one and then distil in a Rose-Headed Still. Rosemary Water. TAKE three Quarts of Rosemary-Flowers, one Quart of Cowslip-Flowers, half a Pound of Dates, two Drams of Nutmegs, half a Pound of Clove July Flowers, half a Pound of Cinnamon, and two Ounces of Raisins of the Sun stoned; bruise the Cinnamon, and slice the Nutmegs and Dates; steep with the Flowers all Night in six Quarts of Sack; the next Day distil them in an Alembick, and draw away three Quarts of Water with a slow Fire; put into your Receiver one Pound of white Sugar-candy. ou may put the first and last Runnings together, and keep the Middle by itself. Aqua Cœlestis. TAKE Cinnamon one Ounce, Ginger half an Ounce; of all the Sanders, each six Drams; Cloves, Galingals, Nutmegs, of each two Drams and a half; Mace, Cubebs, of each one Dram; Car- damums the greater and lesser, of each three Drams; Zedory half an Ounce; Seeds of Fennel-Flowers three Drams; of Anise, Fennel, Wild-Carrot, Basil, of each one Dram and a half; Roots of Angelica, Avens, Liquorice, Valerian, Calamus Aromaticus, Leaves of Clary, Thyme, Calamint, Penny-Royal, Mint, Mother of Thyme, Marjoram, of each two Drams; I2 Flowers 172 The whole Art of COOKERY Flowers of red Roses, Sage, Rosemary, Betony, Stœchas, Borage, Bugloss, of each one Dram and a half; Citron-peels three Drams; bruise them to a gross Powder all together; infuse them two or three Weeks in six Quarts of Spirit of Wine; then draw off as much by Distillation, and add to the Water Species Diambrœ, Aromaticum Rosaceum, Diamoschu Dulcis Diarrhod. Abbat. and Electuary of Gems, of each three Drams; Yellow Sanders two Drams; Ambergrease and Musk, of each one Scruple; Julapium Roseatum one Pound; Let them Hand one Month, frequently shaking the Vessel, and then decant it for Use. An excellent Cordial Water. TAKE Peels of dried Citrons and Oranges, Nut- megs, Cloves, Cinnamon, of each two Ounces; Roots of Cypress, Florentine-orrice, Calamus Aroma- ticus, of each one Ounce; Zedoary, Galingals, Ginger, of each half an Ounce; Tops of Lavender and Rosemary, of each two Ounces; Leaves of Bays, Marjoram, Mint, Sage, Thyme, of each one Ounce; fresh Flowers of white and damask Roses, of each one Ounce; infuse them in two Quarts of Damask- rose Water, and one Gallon of Brandy; distil them, and draw off five Quarts. It is a very good Cepha- lick, and a convenient Julip in all nervous Cases; also a pleasant Dram, and very good upon any sudden Sickness. Aqua Mirabilis. TAKE Cardamum, Cubebs, Galingal, CIoves, Ginger, Mace, Nutmegs, of each a Dram; the Juice of Celandine, half a Pint; mingle all these to- gether, bruised to Powder with the Juice, and a Pint of Aqua Vitœ, and three Pints of white Wine; put them together into a Glass-Still; let it stand all Night, and in the Morning distil it with a very gentle Fire. It is excellent against the Palsy, and very restorative. In 173 made Plain and Easy. In the Summer one Spoonful may be taken in a Week, fasting; and in the Winter two Spoonfuls. Aqua Mirabilis Another Way. TAKE Balm, Mint, Celandine, Angelica, of each a sufficient Quantity; Dates, twelve Ounces; Cubebs, Galingal, Cardamums, Ginger, Cloves, Mace, Nutmegs, of each one Ounce; Orange and Lemon-rind, of each half an Ounce; Carraway and Corriander-seeds, of each two Ounces; Rosemary- Flowers, Marigold-Flowers, and Melilot-Flowers, of each an Ounce; Bruise the Things which ought to he bruised, and infuse them in a sufficient Quantity of Water for the Space of twenty four Hours; then, with seven Gallons of Brandy, distil it in an Alem- bick; Add four Pounds of Sugar to sweeten it. Walnut Water. TAKE green Walnuts in the Beginning of June; beat them in a Mortar, and distil them in a cold Still, and keep the Water by itself: Then about Mid- summer gather some more, and use them as you did the first, and keep that also by itself; Gather your Walnuts a third Time, a Fortnight after Midsum- mer, and use them in the same Manner. Then take Quart of each, mix them together, and distil them in a Glass-Still, and keep it for Use. It is deemed good in Paralytical and Dropsical Disorders. To make Dr. Stephen's Water; from a Receipt he him- self gave (a little before his Death) to the Archbishop of Canterbury. Take Cinnamon, Ginger, Nutmegs, Grains of Paradise, Cloves, Aniseeds, Fennel-seeds, Cara- way-seeds, of each two Drams; Sage, Chamomile, Marjoram, Lavender, Mint, Red-Roses, Pellitory of the Wall, Rosemary and Thyme, and Wild Thyme, of each one Ounce; break the Spices fine, I3 bruise 174 The whole Art of COOKERY bruise the Herbs small, and put them into two Gallons of Bourdeaux red Wine, and let them stand twenty four Hours, stirring them; then put them into an Alembick, and keep the first Water by itself, for it is best; the second Water is good, but not equal with the first. It comforts the Spirits, and helps all diseases that arise from cold: It kills Worms in the Body, and comforts the Stomach: With this Water the old Doctor preserved his Life till he was not able to go nor ride, having kept his Bed five Years, when all other Physicians thought it impossible for him to live one Year: He owned before his Death, that he never used any other Physick but this. It will be the better if you set it in the Sun in the Summer. A good Water to be drank in a Fever. TAKE a Quart of red Wine, and a Quart of Milk; distil them together. The Patient may drink plentifully of it, and it will allay the Heat, and bring the Body into a good Temperature. To make right Usquebaugh, according to the Receipt of that which was made for the Use of King William III. when in Ireland. TAKE ten Gallons of a good Brandy-Spirit, made from strong Beer, and some new Malt; Aniseeds one Pound; Cloves two Ounces; Nutmegs, Ginger, and Caraway-Seeds, each four Ounces: Distil them into Proof-Spirit, according to Art; then add to the liquid Part Spanish-Liquorice, Raisins ot the Sun stoned, of each two Pounds well bruised; Dates stoned, and the white Skin taken off, four Ounces; Cinnamon the like Quantity; keep them four Days in a close Vessel, well stopped; and at the End of three Days add three Grains of Musk and Amber- grease, dissolved and dulcified with five Pounds of Nevis Sugar; stir them well at Times, ten Days, and 175 made Plain and Easy. and strain the liquid Part through a Flannel, fixed on a Sieve, or any other convenient Place; fine it down wash Whites of Eggs and Flour. Some there are who only draw it off the Lees into other Casks, that keep it when fine. And thus, as you would have it richer or weaker; you may take better or worse Spirits, or more or less of the Ingredients, tho' the Way of making and ordering is the same. Surfeit Water. TAKE Centaury, Marigold-Flowers, Mint, Rose- mary, Mugwort, Scordium, Rue, Carduus, Balm, Dragons, St. John's wort, of each three Ounces; Roots of Angelica, Butter-bur, Piony, Scorzonera, of each seven Ounces; Calamus Aroma- ticus, Galingal, Angelica-Seeds, Caraway-Seeds, of each ten Drams; Ginger six Drams; red Poppy- Flowers three Handfuls; Proof-Spirits three Gallons; Water one Gallon and a half: Macerate, distil, and sweeten with fine Sugar one Pound and a half, and keep it for Use. Caraway Water. TAKE Caraway-Seeds bruised, one Pound; Proof- Spirits, three Gallons; Water, one Gallon and a half: Draw off, and sweeten with one Pound and a half of Sugar. Citron Water. Take the best Lemon-peel bruised, eighteen Ounces; Orange-peel, nine Ounces; Nutmegs bruised, one Quarter of a Pound; strong Proof-Spirits, three Gallons; Water, two Gallons: Macerate and distil them; then sweeten it with two Pounds of double-refined Loaf-Sugar, and keep it for Use. To make an excellent Plague Water. TAKE of the Roots of Angelica, fresh dug up, nine Ounces; Zedoary, the Leaves of Rue, I4 Mint, 176 The whole Art of COOKERY Mint, and Rosemary, Juniper-Berries, and Venice Treacle, of each an Ounce and a half; Virginia Sneak-root, and Seeds of Angelica, each six Drams Add thereto rectified Spirit of Wine, one Gallon; Water, four Gallons: Draw off three Gallons. A highly approved Palsey Water. TAKE Sage, Rosemary, Betony-Flowers, of each half an Handful; of Lilly of the Valley, single Piony, Borage, Bugloss-Flowers, each an Handful: Steep these in Spirits of Wine, Muscadine or Aqua Vitæ; then add Balm and Spikenard, two Ounces; Motherwort, Bay-Leaves, Orange-Leaves and Flow- ers, each an Ounce: put to them as many Lavender- Flowers, stripped from the Stalks, as will fill a large Gallon-Glass; gather them all in their Season: After they are steeped six Weeks, distil them carefully in an Alembick; then put to this Water Citron-peel, and dried Piony-seeds hulled, each six Drams; Cinnamon, half an Ounce; Nutmegs, Mace, Cardamums, Cubebs, yellow Saunders, each half an Ounce; Lignum Aloes, one Dram ; Make these into Powders, put them to the Water of Jujubes, new and good, half a Pound, with their Stones taken out, and cut them small; close the Vessel with a double Bladder; let them all digest six Weeks; then press out the Liquor, and strain it through a clean Cloth: Afterwards put to it prepared Pearl, Smaragds, Musk and Saffron, each ten Grains; Ambergrease, one Scruple; Red-Roses dried, red and yellow Saunders, each an Ounce; Hang these in a Sarsenet Bag in the Water. Give forty Drops at Night In Sugar, or Crumbs of Bread to a Man, at going to Bed, especially in the Full and New of the Moon. January is the best Time for gathering the Roots. Some add Lime-Flowers and Marum, about a Hand- ful of each; a Pound of single Piony-roots; and half a Pound of Angelica-roots. A Poppy 177 made Plain and Easy A Poppy Water for Surfeits and Over-eating. BREW ten Gallons of strong Alewort; when it is cool, work it with Yeast, and add as many fresh red Poppies as the Wort will conveniently wet, so that you may stir it daily; Let the Poppies infuse in this Wort three Days and Nights; then draw it off in an Alembick, as quick as you can, till the whole is distilled off; mix the small and strong together, and take a Glass at a Time, with or without Sugar, after a full and disgusting Meal. 'Tis not much stronger than a simple Water, but has done great Things this Way. To make Lemon Water. TAKE two Dozen of Lemons, pare the Rinds of them very thin, and put them into an earthen Pot; then put to them a Quart of the best Brandy, and stop it very close, that the Air may not come in; let it stand a Fortnight; afterwards put it in a cold Still, with a Quart of the best Malaga-Sack, and paste it up close, to prevent the Air from entering: Keep it with wet Cloths: When your Water is all stilled, put it all together, and put half a Pound of double- refined Sugar unbeaten to two Quarts of Water, and let it stand in an earthen Pot, till all be dissolved; or else you may sweeten with Sugar beaten fine to your Taste. To make Orange Water. TAKE the Parings of forty Oranges, if they be very good and large; if not, fifty; steep them in a Gallon of Sack three Days; then distil the Sack and Peels together in an Alembick: If you chuse it very strong, distil it in an ordinary Rose-Headed Still; put into the Bottles it drops in, some white Sugar- candy; divide the Oranges and Sack, and do it twice. I5 To 178 The whole Art of COOKERY To mate Barley Water. TAKE two Quarts of fair Water; French Barley, two Ounces; Hartshorn and Ivory, of each half an Ounce: boil it together till it comes to one; sweeten it with what Syrup you please. To make Compound Piony Water. TAKE of the Roots of Piony fresh gathered, eighteen Ounces; of bitter Almonds, six Ounces; of the Leaves of Rosemary, Rue, wild Thyme, and Flowers of Lavender dried, each three Ounces; of Cinnamon, Cubebs, Seeds of Angelica, Corriander, Caraway, Anise, each half an Ounce; rectfied Spirit of Wine, one Gallon; Water, five Gallons: Draw off by Distillation, three Gallons.'Tis good in all nervous Cases. Spirit of Wine with Camphire. IS made by dissolving half an Ounce of Camphire in a Pint of rectified Spirit of Wine. Rosa Solis. TAKE Rosa Solis clean picked, one Pound and a Quarter; Cinnamon, Cloves, and Nutmegs, each one Ounce; Marygolds one Quarter of a Pound; Caraway-Seeds three Ounces; Proof-Spirits three Gallons; Water two Gallons: Draw off your Proof- Spirits, and in a Quart of Liquor put four Ounces of Liquorice sliced; Raisins stoned one Pound; red San- ders four Ounces: Infuse upon hot Ashes to a due Extraction of their Virtue; strain and dissolve therein white Sugar, one Pound and a half; which when cold mix with the Proof-Spirits, and keep it for Use, Aniseed Water. TAKE Aniseeds twelve Ounces; Proof-Spirits three Gallons; Spring-Water one Gallon and a half; Infuse them all Night in the Still, and draw off with 179 made Plain and Easy. with a gentle Heat, no more than runs Proof; sweeten with brown Sugar two Pounds. Balm Water. TAKE two Gallons of strong Ale, and a Quart of Sack, four Pounds of young Balm-Leaves shred, Aniseeds and Liquorice, of each a Pound, beaten to Powder; put them all into the Ale and Sack; let them steep twelve Hours, and then put them into an Alembick, and distil it. Compound Scordium Water. TAKE Goats-rue, Sorrel, Scordium, and Citrons, of each one Pound; London Treacle two Ounces; put them into an Alembick, with a sufficient Quantity of Water, and two Quarts of Spirit of Wine; draw off about a Gallon. It is an excellent Sudorifick, and, if joined with an Acid, is preferable to Treacle Water. White Clove Water. TAKE Winter's-Bark six Drams; Pimento one Ounce; Cloves two Drams; bruise them, and infuse all Night in Proof-Spirits three Gallons; a suf- ficient Quantity of Water; draw off the Spirits, and sweeten with one Pound and a half of fine Sugar. Red Clove Water. TAKE Cloves bruised, six Drams; Jamaica-Pep- per an Ounce and a half; Proof-Spirits, three Gallons; a due Quantity of Water: Macerate and distil as long as it runs Proof; sweeten it with two Pounds and a half of brown Sugar or Treacle, colour it with five or six Pints of Elder-Juice, to the Colour of red Wine. Gold Cordial. TAKE the bed Brandy, three Pints; Confection of Alkermes, half an Ounce; Oil of Cloves, ten Drops; Loaf-Sugar, six Ounces; Musk and Amber- grease 180 The whole Art of COOKERY grease tied in a Rag, of each three Grains: Infuse them all together in a large Glass-Bottle, close corked, and shake it every Day; filtre or decant off the clear Liquor, adding six Leaves of Gold thereto. It is a great Cordial, and prevents Faintings, Swoonings, and Sickness at the Stomach, and is good in nervous Cases. Ratifia. TAKE Melasses-Brandy, three Gallons; Nuts, two Ounces and a half; bitter Almonds one Pound and a half: Bruise them, and infuse in the Brandy; add Ambergrease, three Grains, mixt with fine Lisbon-Sugar, three Pounds; infuse them all for seven or eight Days, and then strain off for Use. A Snail Water, good in Consumptions and Jaundice. TAKE a Peck of large shell Snails, lay them on a hot Hearth before the Fire; let them lay 'till they have done hissing and spitting; then wipe them from the froth, and break them in a Mortar; have a Quart of Earth Worms, scoured clean with Salt and Water and slit: Beat them with the Snails; then take An- gelica, Celandine, Wood-Sorrel, Agrimony, Bear- Foot, Barberry-Bark, great Dock-Roots, of each two Ounces; Rue one Ounce; Rosemary-Flowers one Quart; half a Pound of Harts-horn; Turmerick and Fenugreek, of each two Ounces; half an Ounce of powdered Saffron, and three Ounces of Cloves fresh beat: Shred these Ingredients, and infuse all in three Gallons of strong Ale, for twelve Hours; then distil it, and draw oft what runs good, and take three Spoonfuls of this in a Glass of Sack or white Wine, an Hour before every Meal; use moderate Exercise with it, 'Tis highly recommended. Pepper- 181 made Plain and Easy. Pepper-Mint Water. CUT up Pepper-Mint just when it is going to flower, and cut to Pieces three Pounds and a half of it into the Still with seven Quarts of Water; light the Fire, close on the Head, and draw off a Gallon. So easily as this are all the Simple Waters made. They require no more Trouble than cutting the Herb to Pieces, putting it into the Still with Water enough, and drawing off as much as is strong and good. The fresh Herbs make them best, but they will be very good from the dry, and from Herbs pro- perly dried, they may be made when fresh Herbs in Flower cannot be got. For this Purpose they are to be cut in Summer, just when they are beginning to Flower, tied up in small Bunches, and hung on Lines at a Distance from one another to dry. When they are thoroughly dried they must be put up in Boxes, and then when they are wanted for distilling in a dead Season, they are to be taken out, cut to Pieces, and distilled with the same Quantity of Water, and in the same Manner, only with this Difference, that less is to be used of the dry Herb by Weight, than of the same green. Thus, as we have ordered three Pounds of fresh Penny-Royal to be used for a Gallon of the Water, two Pounds of dry Penny-Royal is enough for the same Quantity. In the same man- ner in general, two Thirds of the Weight of an Herb answers when it is dry; for it is principally the watery Part that goes off in drying, the Virtue almost all remaining; so that there is more of it in a smaller Compass. Many prefer dry Herbs for distil- ling on all Occasions, but this is a weak Notion, for many Herbs lose Part of their Virtues in drying, and none receive any. Valuable 182 The whole Art of COOKERY Valuable Family Receipts. THE following Receipts many of them could not so properly be ranged under any other Head; and as they will be particularly useful, it would have been unpardonable to omit them. The Writer of this Book does not here put herself in the Place of a Physician, but in the useful Capacity of Nurse; in which Situation it cannot be impertinent to give Instructions for preparing Diets proper for the Sick; among which indeed some things may be found which are properly called Family Medicines, and for their Use highly deserves to be regarded: Therefore farther Apology would be needless. To mince Veal or Chicken, for the Sick, or weak People. MINCE a Chicken or Veal very fine, taking off the Skin; just boil as much Water as will moisten it, and no more, with a very little Salt, grate in a little Nutmeg, then throw a little Flour over it, and when the Water boils put In the Meat. Keep shak- ing it about over the Fire a Minute; then have ready two or three very thin Sippets toasted nice and brown, laid in the Plate, and pour the Mince-meat over it. To pull a Chicken for the Sick. YOU must take as much cold Chicken as you think proper, take off the Skin, and pull the Meat into little Bits as thick as a Quill; then take the Bones, boil them with a little Salt till they are good, strain it, then take a Spoonful of the Liquor, a Spoonful of Milk, 183 made Plain and Easy. Milk, a little Bit of Butter as big as as a large Nut- meg rolled in Flour, a little chopped Parsley as much as will lay on a Six-pence, and a little Salt, if wanted. This will be enough for half a small Chicken. Put all together into the Sauce-pan; then keep shaking it 'till it is thick, and pour it into a hot Plate. To make Chicken Broth. YOU must take an old Cock, or large Fowl, skin it, then pick off all the Fat, and break it all to Pieces with a Rolling-pin; put it into two Quarts of Water, with a good Crust of Bread, and a Blade of Mace. Let it boil softly 'till the Broth is good, and drain it off. Season with a very little Salt. When you boil a Chicken save the Liquor, and when the Meat is eat, take the Bones, then break them and put to the Liquor in which you boiled the Chicken, with a Blade of Mace, and a Crust of Bread. Let it boil 'till it is good, and drain it off. To make Chicken Water. TAKE a Cock, or a large Fowl, skin it, then bruise it with a Hammer, and put it into a Gallon of Water, with a Crust of Bread. Let it boil half away, and drain it off. To make Brown Caudle for a Laying-in Woman. YOU must take two Quarts of Water, mix in six Spoonfuls of Oatmeal, a Blade or two of Mace, and a Piece of Lemon-peel; let it boil well, keep stir- ting of it often, and take Care it does not boil over; strain it through a coarse Sieve; then add a Quart of good Ale, not bitter; boil it again, sweeten it to your Palate, and add half a Pint of white Wine. When you don't put in white Wine, let it be half Ale. To 184 The whole Art of COOKERY To make Water Gruel. YOU must take a Pint of Water, and a large Spoonful of Oatmeal; then stir it together, and let it boil up three or four Times, stirring it often. Don't let it boil over Then strain it through a Sieve, salt it to your Palate, put in a good Piece of fresh Butter, bruise it with a Spoon 'till the Butter is all melted, then it will be fine and smooth, and very good. Some like a little Pepper in it. To make Panado. YOU must take a Quart of Water in a nice clean Sauce-pan, a Blade of Mace, a large Piece of Crumb of Bread; let it boil two Minutes, then take out the Bread, and bruise it in a Bason very fine. Mix as much Water as will make it as thick as you would have it, the rest pour away, and sweeten it to your Palate. Put in a Piece of Butter as big as a Walnut, but don't put in any Wine, for it spoils it; you may grate in a little Nutmeg. This is hearty and good Diet for sick People. To boil Segoo. PUT a large Spoonful of Segoo into three Quarters of a Pint of Water, stir it and boil it as thick as you would have it; then put in Wine and Sugar, with a little Nutmeg to your Palate. To make the Pectoral Drink. TAKE a Gallon of Water, and half a Pound of Pearl Barley, boil it with a Quarter of a Pound of Figs split, a Pennyworth of Liquorice diced to Pieces, a Quarter of a Pound of Raisins of the Sun stoned; boil all together 'till half is wasted, then strain it off. This is ordered in the Measles, and several other Disorders, for a Drink. To 185 made Plain and Easy. To make Bread-Soop for the Sick. TAKE a Quart of Water, set it on the Fire in a clean Sauce-pan, and as much dry Crust of Bread cut to Pieces as the Top of a Penny-Loaf, (the drier the better) and a Bit of Butter as big as a Walnut; let it boil, then beat it with a Spoon, and keep boiling it 'till the Bread and Water is well mixed; then season it with a very little Salt, and it is a pretty Thing for a weak Stomach. To make artificial Asses Milk. TAKE two Ounces of Pearl Barley, two large Spoonfuls of Hartshorn Shavings, one Ounce of Eringo Root, one Ounce of China Root, one Ounce of preserved Ginger, eighteen Snails bruised with the Shells, to be boiled in three Quarts of Water, 'till it comes to three Pints, then boil a Pint of new Milk, mix it with the rest, and put in two Ounces of Bal- sam of Tolu. Take half a Pint in the Morning, and half a Pint at Night. Cows Milk next to Asses Milk, done thus: TAKE a Quart of Milk, set it in a Pan over Night, the next Morning take off all the Cream, then boil it, and set it in the Pan again 'till Night; then skim it again, and boil it; set it in the Pan again, and the next Morning skim it; warm it Blood-warm, and drink it as you do Asses Milk. It is very near as good, and with some consumptive People it is better. To make Sage Drink. PUT a little Sage, and a little Balm, into a Pan, slice a Lemon, peel and all, add a few Knobs of Sugar, and a Glass of white Wine; pour on these two or three Quarts of boiling Water, cover it, and drink when dry. When you think it strong enough of the Herbs, take them out, otherwise it will make it bitter. To 186 The whole Art of COOKERY To boil Comfrey Roots. TAKE a Pound of Comfrey Roots, scrape them clean, cut them into little Pieces, and put them into three Pints of Water. Let them boil 'till there is about a Pint, then strain it, and when it is cold, put it into a Sauce-pan. If there is any Settling at the Bottom, throw it away; mix it with Sugar to your Palate, half a Pint of Mountain Wine, and the Juice of a Lemon. Let it boil, then pour it into a clean earthen Pot, and set it by for Use. Some boil it in Milk, and it is very good where it will agree, and is reckoned a very great Strengthener. Liquor for a Child that has the Thrush. TAKE half a Pint of Spring Water, a Knob of double-refined Sugar; and a little Bit of Allum, beat it well together with the Yolk of an Egg, then beat into it a large Spoonful of the Juice of Sage; tie a Rag to the End of a Stick, dip it in this Liquor, and often clean the Mouth. Give the Child over Night one Drop of Laudanum, and the next Day proper Physick, washing the Mouth often with this Liquor. A valuable REMEDY to prevent Persons from catching SMALL POX, PLAGUE, or any other Epidemical Disorder. IF we give Credit,to the Opinion of that learned and judicious Physician Dr. Mead, we must look upon the Small Pox as a Species of the Plague; for in his Treatise on the Small-Pox and Measles, pag. 8. he says, " I really take this Disease to be a Plague of its own " Kind, which was originally bred in Africa, and " more especially In Ethiopia, as the Heat is excessive " there; 187 made Plain and Easy. " there; and thence, like the true Plague, was " brought into Arabia and Egypt." The Doctor accounts rationally for the spreading of the Disease to distant Countries; He says that this contagious Disease did not spread 'till Traffic and Commerce had been established; and that then the Infection spread far and wide. For the Matter from the Pustules being imbibed by the Wearing Apparel or Merchandize, and there drying and remaining in- visible, becomes a Nursery of the Disease, which breaks forth on those who happen to come in contact with it at such Seasons of the Year, and in such State of the Air as is favourable to its Action. And as a Confirmation of this Doctrine, he says, " It may " not be improper to relate the following Fact, which " was attested to me by a Gentleman of great Ex- " perience, who had been for many Years Governor " of Fort St. George, in the East Indies. While he " was in that Post, a Dutch Ship put into the Cape of " Good Hope, some of the Crew of which had had the " Small-Pox in the Voyage thither, The Natives of " that Country, who are called Hottentots, are so " wild and stupid, that they might seem to be of a " middle Species between Men and Brutes; and it is " their Custom to do all servile Offices for the Sailors, " who land there. Now it happened, that some of " these miserable Wretches were employed in wash- " ing the Linnen and Clothes of those Men, who " had had the Distemper: Whereupon they were " seized with it, and it raged among them with such " Violence, that most of them perished under it. But " as soon as fatal Experience had convinced this igno- " rant People, that the Disease was spread by Con- " tagion, it appeared that they had natural Sagacity " enough to defend themselves. For they contrived " to 188 The whole Art of COOKERY " to draw Lines round the infected Part of their " Country, which were so strictly guarded, that if " any Person attempted to break through them, in " order to fly from the Infection, he was immediately " shot dead.—This Fact seems the more remark- " able, as it Evinces, that Necessity compelled a " People of the most gross Ignorance and Stupidity " to take the same Measure, which a Chain of Rea- " soning led us formerly to propose, in order to stop " the Progress of the Plague; and which, some Time " after, had a happy Effect not only in checking, " but even entirely extinguishing that dreadful Cala- " mity in France, where it broke forth, and threatened " the rest of Europe with Destruction." Now by Experience we are taught, that whatever new epidemical Disease has been once produced in any Clime or Country, though its Progress may have been checked or apparently extinguished, yet the Seeds of the Disease have scarce ever been totally eradicated; but has by almost unaccountable Incidents spread at distant Times with the utmost Rage and Violence: As a Confirmation of this Fact also, I would refer the judicious Reader to his own Knowledge and Expe- rience in regard to new Kinds of Fevers, &c. as well as the epidemical Distemper amongst the Horned Cattle. The Chinese have long had the Art of inoculating for the Small-Pox; which they did by letting the Pa- tient snuff some of the Matter up the Nostrils; And that the Small-Pox is taken through the Nostrils, or by Breathing appears evident from the most curious Observations; and this may in some Measure account for such having the Disease more slightly who are ino- culated in the manner now practised, than those who take the Small-Pox in the natural Way. Dr. Mead says, 189 made Plain and Easy. says, " I myself have had an Opportunity of making " an Experiment to this Purpose. For, when in the " Year 1721, by Order of his sacred Majesty, both " for the Sake of his own Family, and of his Subjects, " a Trial was to be made upon seven condemned " Malefactors, whether or not the Small-Pox could " safely be communicated by Inoculation; I easily " obtained Leave to make the Chinese Experiment in " one of them. There was among those, who were " chosen out to undergo the Operation, a young Girl " of eighteen Years of Age; I put into her Nostrils " a Tent wetted with Matter taken out of ripe Puf- " tules. The Event answered; for she, in like " Manner with the others, who were Infected by In- " cisions made in the Skin, fell sick, and recovered; " but suffered much more than they did, being, im- " mediately after the Poison was received into the " Nose, miserably tormented with sharp Pains in " her Head, and a Fever, which never left her till " the Eruption of the Pustules." According to Dr. Mead's Opinion, It being there- fore granted that the Small Pox is a Plague of its own Kind, there remains no Doubt, that the same Means and Medicines which will repel that fatal Distemper in its mod violent State, will be altogether effectual to stop a Degree of the same Disease less destructive in its Consequences. The Remedy for which is as follows: A Receipt to prevent Persons from catching the Plague, &c. TAKE of Rue, Sage, Mint, Rosemary, Worm- wood and Lavender, a Handful of each; infuse them together in a Gallon of White Wine Vinegar, put the Whole into a Stone-pot closely covered up, upon 190 The whole Art of COOKERY upon warm Wood Ashes for four Days: After which draw off (or strain through fine Flannel) the Liquid, and put it into Bottles well corked; and into every Quart Bottle, put a Quarter of an Ounce of Cam- phire. With this Preparation wash your Mouth, and rub your Loins and your Temples every Day; snuff a little up your Nostrils when you go into the Air, and carry about you a Bit of Spunge dipped in the same, in order to smell to upon all Occasions, espe- cially when you are near any Place or Person that is infected. It is recorded that four Malefactors (who had robbed the infested Houses, and murdered the People during the Course of the Plague) owned, when they came to the Gal- lows, that they had preserved themselves from the Con- tagion by using the above Medicine only; and that they went the whole Time from House to House, without any fear of the Distemper. It is a rational as well as an approved Method, in order to avoid the ill Effects arising from noxious Efflu- viums to provide an Antidote whose repellant Effluvia will counteract their malignant Efforts; and this Prac- tice is founded on the obvious Maxim of repelling Force by Force. Therefore the above Method has Rea- son as well as Experience on its Side, and is certain in its Operation. Yet it will be necessary to observe, it does not follow, that because any Nostrum whatso- ever, will free the Party from Infection at one particu- lar Time, or cure him of one Disease, that he will never again want its Help; for this Reason those who dread the Disorder will think it their Duty to avoid as much as possible the running wantonly into Danger, and when Necessity obliges them to be exposed to it they will administer this Preservative with Care and proper 191 made Plain and Easy. proper Application; It having been often found that a Person has taken the Small-Pox at the Distance of two Months or upwards, by only removing the Cloaths of a Person who so long before had been where the Distemper was; and the Plague has broke out by opening a Bale of Cotton near a Year after its landing. Dr. MEAD'S 'Receipt for the Bite of a Mad Dog. LET the Patient be blooded at the Arm nine or ten Ounces. Take the Herb, called in Latin, Lichen Cinereus Terrestris: in English, Ash-coloured Ground Liverwort, cleaned, dried and powdered, half an Ounce. Of Black Pepper powdered, two Drams. Mix these well together, and divide the Powder into four Doses; one of which must be taken every Morning fasting, for four Mornings successively, in half a Pint of Cow's Milk warm. After these four Doses are taken, the Patient must go into the cold Bath or a cold Spring, or River, every Morning fasting, for a Month. He must be dipt all over, but not stay in (with his Head above Water) longer than Half a Mi- nitue, if the Water be very cold. After this he must go in three Times a Week for a Fortnight longer. N. B. The Lichen is a very common Herb, and grows generally in sandy and barren Soils all over England. The right Time to gather it, is in the Months of October and November, To take Ironmolds out of Linnen. TAKE Sorrel, bruise it well in a Mortar, squeeze it through a Cloth, bottle it and keep it for Use. Take a little of the above Juice, in a Sauce-pan well Tinned, boil it over a Lamp, as it boils dip in the Ironmold, don't rub it, but only squeeze it. As soon as the Ironmold is out, throw it into cold Water. 192 The whole Art of COOKERY THE Compleat FAMILY GARDINER. CHAP. I. The Management of a Kitchen Garden. To raise ARTICHOKES. THE Red Artichoke is at present the only Kind that is cultivated about London, where this Plant has been always better managed than by Country Gardiners, in the following Manner. In the latter End of February, or the Beginning of March, according to the Season, transplant the Suckers or Slips from the old Roots into rich Ground, and earth them very close; these young Plants will pro- duce large fair Fruit the Autumn following. About this Time of the Year it will be proper to dress up the old Stocks also; from which the Earth should be care- fully removed as low as any Suckers are produc'd, and all of them well cleared away; after this, put a Quantity of very rich Earth to each Root. When you gather your Artichokes, cut them down close to the Ground, and in October or November cover them over with Earth to secure them from the Frost, and they will need no other Care 'till the Spring. Some Persons cover them up with Horse Dung, which is very detrimental, as it draws and weakens the Root. The 193 made Plain and Easy. The JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. THIS a Species of the Sunflower, and is an Ame- rican Plant, but as the Roots are valued by many, being somewhat like Potatoes, it is frequently planted in the Kitchen Garden, in some waste Parts; where, being once introduced, 'tis difficult to get quit of again, and needs no Trouble. ASPARAGUS. ABOUT the Middle of February sow your Seeds on a Bed of good Earth, tread it gently into the Ground, and rake it smooth. When they appear, take Care to keep the Bed clear from Weeds; and in the Beginning of the following Winter spread some rotten Dung about half an Inch thick over the Bed, to preserve it from the Frost. About the April fol- lowing your Plants will be lit to remove; when you must prepare a Piece of Ground in Trenches of about half a Foot deep, and a Foot distant from each other; lay your Roots in these Trenches about ten Inches a- part, and cover them with the Earth, making the Bed level. Keep your Beds clear from Weeds in the Summer, cut down the Haulm in Autumn, and lighten the Earth with a Fork in the Spring; and the third Season after planting, you may begin cutting your Asparagus for Use. A Bed of Asparagus thus managed will bear cutting for ten or twelve Years, throwing a little rotten Dung over the Bed annually, or at farthest every other Winter. BALM. THIS is to be met with in most Gardens, in the Cultivation of which it is necessary to keep the Bed clear of Weeds, and at Spring or Autumn, once in two Years, take up the Roots, and separate them, to prevent their being too thick. If the Season prove K dry, 194 The whole Art of COOKERY dry, it will be necessary to refresh them with Water, when newly planted, 'till they have struck Root. Broad BEANS. THESE are raised from planting the Seeds: The Sorts which best endure cold is the Portugal, or Spanish, which may be planted about Michaelmas; and for Crops to succeed these, they are planted in October, and so on as the Weather permits. If the Soil is dry and warm, the Windsor, or broad Spanish may be planted from Christmas 'till March, according to the Weather; and many Persons, to have them early, plant them on gentle Hot-beds, with Hoops and Mats over them, and transplant them out in Rows when the Mildness of the Season will allow. They do best in good light Earth while Colds con- tinue, but afterwards any Ground will do. BROCOLI. THIS is a fine Species of the Cabbage; the Time for sowing them is May, in rich, moist Ground, from whence they must be transplanted at the Distance of about three Inches; and in the Beginning of Au- gust let them be planted out in Beds well sheltered from Cold, at least two Feet asunder, and they will be fit to cut from December 'till March. CABBAGE. THE Management of Cabbages is so easy as to re- quire little Instruction; they are raised from Seed in the same Manner as Brocoli, and ought to be plan- ted three Feet asunder. There are various Kinds, which are adapted to different Seasons of the Year, and succeed each other. CARROTS. CARROTS should be sown in January, if the Weather is mild, in a warm sandy Soil, dug very deep: After sowing, tread the Bed all over, and then rake 195 made Plain and Easy. rake it smooth ; and when they appear, take Care to thin them sufficiently with the Hoe. They thrive best near Pales or Hedges where it is warm. COLLIFLOWERS. THESE are produced from Seed: If you would have them succeed each other, begin sowing about the End of July, and for later Crops omit about a Week between each. An old Melon or Cucumber Bed is very proper to sow them upon, which must be made level, and covered with light fresh Earth, and after you have sowed your Seeds, strew over them a little more fresh Earth; shade them from the Sun, if very hot, and give them gentle Waterings as you see they require Refreshment. In about a Month's Time your Plants will be fit to remove, which you may do into a Bed of the same Nature of that they were first sowed in, and set them about the Distance of three Inches by four asunder: Here they may continue 'till about the Middle of October, when they should be removed to the Place where they are to remain all the Winter, which ought to be in Frames, or on a Bor- der with a warm Aspect. They will be ready for the Table in May, and will continue June and July. CUCUMBERS. IN the early Season Cucumbers are sown on Hot- beds, and afterwards, when the Weather is warm, they will do in the natural Ground; these are the Sort made use of for pickling. In order to have them early, make a Hot-bed at Christmas; cover it about four Inches with fine Mould, put on your Frame and Glasses, and as soon as you find it warm, prick your Seeds; and you may continue to raise them in this Manner 'till the Beginning of April. K2 ENDIVE 196 The whole Art of COOKERY ENDIVE. ENDIVE should be sowed at Midsummer, and so on, at about three Weeks Distance from each other, 'till Michaelmas, in order to have a Succession for the Winter. As soon as it has four or five Leaves, plant it out at the Distance of about six Inches square, from whence, in a Month's Time, plant it in Drills, at the Distance of a Foot, and the Plants at about six Inches. When it is grown up, tie the Tops with Bass-matting to blanch it, and as soon as 'tis white, let it be used immediately. This is a warm, fine Winter Sallad, and not so much known as it deserves. GARDEN CRESSES. THESE are also Winter Sallading, and should be sown on warm Borders for the Spring, and in Winter on Hot-beds; when you have cut it, water the Bed, and it will grow again, and bear cutting a considerable Time. HORSE-RADISH. IN the Spring of the Year, when you use Horse- Radish, plant the Heads of the Sticks in a rich deep Soil that is free from Roots or Rubbish; Keep them clean from Weeds, and no other Trouble is required. It is best if the Soil is four or five Feet deep; and after it has flood 'till it is fit to dig up, trench the Ground away, and take up all that you can without Regard to leaving any Sets, for it will not be destroyed by either digging or drawing it up: Put in plenty of Dung, and let lie, keeping it clear of Weeds, and you will find a more plentiful Crop than at first; and this is all the Trouble required. KIDNEY-BEANS. TO have a Succession of Kidney-Beans, they should be sown at different Times; the first in March or April; then again in May and June; this last Crop will 197 made Plain and Easy. will continue 'till the Frost takes them. For the early Season, put them on warm Borders, and under Walls; and some raise them in Hot-beds. When they are in Flower, give them Water frequently, and they will bear much better. Sow them in shallow Drills, and cover them very lightly with Earth. LETTUCE ARE propagated from Seed sown at different Times, as the Weather will permit, from Newyear's-day to Michaelmas. Those sown late are for the Winter, and should be planted out into Beds or Borders shel- tered from the Cold, and where they will have the Benefit of the Sun. The Lettuce chiefly in Use are the green and white Cos, the brown Dutch, Imperial and Silesia. All the different Kinds must be planted out from the Seed Bed, when they have five Leaves, or soon after. MINT. IS raised from Seed sown on Borders of common Earth, in February or March, which must be afterwards transplanted into Beds; or by dividing the Roots in Spring or Autumn, and planting in dry Ground: This Method is attended with least Trouble, if you can procure Roots. ONIONS. DRY sandy light Ground is most proper for Onions; sow about the Beginning of March, but not too thick, eight Pounds being a sufficient Quantity for an Acre of Land. In a Month or six Weeks, accord- ing to the Weather, they will be up high enough to be drawn or thinned with a small Hoe; at which Time let the Bed be cleared of Weeds, and the Blades left at the Distance of about two Inches, and they will need no other Care for a Month, unless there should be Occasion to refresh them with Water: at the Ex- K3 piration 198 The whole Art of COOKERY piration of the Month, hoe them a second Time, when the Weather is dry, that the Weeds may die as soon as they are cut up, and thin the Onions so as to leave them at least three Inches a-part: At the Expiration of another Month after this, hoe them or draw them again to the Distance of six Inches a-part, that they may have Room to grow large. If the Weather proves dry, tins may be sufficient, and by having thinned the Crop, they will be large, and fit to gather by the Middle, or latter End of July. The frequent hoeing away the Weeds, and keeping the Ground loose, is of great Service before the Heads begin to be large. The white Spanish is the Onion most in Esteem. PARSLEY. PARSLEY Should be sown in February, in a light moist Soil, not over thick, which will be a Means of making the Roots much stronger, and will produce more Leaves. It is very hardy, and when grown up; will bear cutting very often. If the Weather is dry it requires watering frequently; especially when you have just cut it, and at all other Times when the Season is so dry as to make the Ground want Water to refresh it. PARSNEPS. THESE may be sown in a Bed alone, or with Car- rots, in a mellow deep Soil, in February or March, and should be hoed out to the Distance of eight or nine Inches, in order to let them have Room to grow large, which is esteemed the Perfection of this Root; for which Reason it is the best Way to sow them in the same Bed with Carrots, and as the Car- rots come off, they will have sufficient Room. When the Top begins to decay, they are fit to gather, and before that Time they are seldom well tasted, nor are 199 made Plain and Easy. are they good in the Spring, after beginning to grow again. PEASE. THE first Season for sowing Pease is about the Be- ginning or Middle of November, under Walls with a South Aspect, well sheltered from the Winds; when they are up, earth them from Time to Time as you see Occasion. The Hot-spur, commonly called the Nimble Pea, is the most proper for this Season, as it best endures the Cold; it is also preser- able to any other for a late Crop to come in after the common Season. Those for the Middle Season, when the Weather is kind, is the Mastic Hot-spur, the Dwarf and common Marrow-fats, the Nonpariel, and the Reading. Pease grow best in a light sandy Earth. POTATOES. THESE should be planted in a light deep Soil that is rich, in the latter End of February, if the Season is mild: If it is in a Garden, dig a Trench a Spit deep, and lay in some Straw Thatch, or any kind of long Straw Dung; if your Potatoes have many Eyes, they may be cut into several Parts, taking Care that one or more Eye be left in each; lay in these at the Distance of eight or nine Inches, and cover them over again with Litter; then throw the Earth upon them. Let your next Trench be at such a Distance as to permit you to go between, and earth them after they are grown up. If they are planted in the Field, a deep Furrow will answer the Purpose of a Trench dug with a Spade, which may be closed up again by the Plow; and in this Method leave proper Room be- tween each Ridge, then they may be earthed by the Plow, and cultivated with very little Trouble. K4 RADISHES. 200 The whole Art of COOKERY RADISHES. RADISHES are now used for Salading in the Win- ter season; and are raised under Frames on Hot- beds for this Purpose, and sown very thick; those in- tended for eating otherwise, require a good rich Soil, and for an early Crop, must be sown upon warm well-sheltered Borders, in the Middle of October; and, when up, they must be hoed or thinned to the Distance of about three Inches square. The next Season for sowing is about the Beginning of the New Year, if the Weather is favourable; these must also be well sheltered. In the Middle of February, and so on to the Middle or latter End of March, they will do upon open Ground; and after this Time they are subject to what is called the Black Fly, which gene- rally destroys them entirely. Birds are also very troublesome where Radishes are sown, and, for Want of Care, often destroy the whole Crop. SHALLOTS. THESE are propagated by separating the Roots, and planting them in a warm Border, at about the Distance of four Inches by nine, there to stand till they are fit to be taken up, which will be known by the Declining of the Heads. Then take them up, and dry them in the Sun, and house them in some conve- nient Place. SPINACH. THE prickly narrow-leaved Spinach is hardy, and will endure the Winter; sow it in the latter End of July, in an open Spot of Ground, when it is likely to rain, otherwise when dry Weather succeeds, the Crop is seldom regular. When it is up, hoe it in dry Weather, to destroy the Weeds and thin the Crop, leaving them about five Inches a-part. As the Weeds grow, about once a Month clear them away, and in October 201 made Plain and Easy. October it will be fit to cut for Use: When you gather it, crop the largest Leaves, and leave those in the Centre to grow bigger; thus you may continue crop- ping it all the Winter. The other tenderer Sorts should be sown from the latter End of February to the latter End of March; when this is up, hoe it as the other, and take Care that your Spinach be kept clear of Weeds, which cause the Plants to run up weak. This Spring Crop will be fit for use in April, as the Winter Plants go off. This Plant requires a good rich Soil. THYME. THE Lemon-thyme, and the Variegated, which has striped Leaves, are the only Sorts propagated in Gardens; the latter has a beautiful Appearance; but the Lemon-thyme is that which is used for Season- ing. Both these Sorts are easily propagated; their trailing Branches strike out Roots from the Joints that lay upon the Earth, and from one Root, soon produce a large Stock. The striped Sorts were for- merly used for Edgings to Borders, and look'd very beautiful; but as they cannot well be kept within Bounds, it is now disus'd. TURNIPS. THIS Root has been of great Use in the Improve- ment of dry sandy Lands, as well as Food for Cattle in Winter: They are grown to great Advan- tage in barren Lands, from whence they are generally sweetest, and least liable to be sticky: The ground should be ploughed in May, and twy-fallowed in June, and made very fine: The Seed should be sown very thin the latter End of July; at which Time it custo- marily receives the Benefit of some refreshing Showers, without which it is very common to have the whole Crop destroyed by the Fly. The Seed must be har- K5 rowed 202 The whole Art of COOKERY rowed in, and rolled, and if the first Crop is destroyed, sow it again. When they are up in about five Leaves, hoe them to the Distance of six Inches, that they may have Room to apple. In Gardens where the Ground is moist, they are frequently sown in April, May, and June; but, if the Weather prove dry, they fre- quently miscarry. But in order to employ Ground to to the greatest Advantage, tho' a sallow was formerly the Method of raising Turnips, the present Practice is to sow Pease, and after the Ground is cleared of that Crop, immediately Plow it up and sow the Tur- nips; For Pease mellows the Ground and smother the Weeds. CHAP. II. The Manner of Cultivating Fruit Trees. The Apple Tree. THIS Fruit is cultivated in England in great Variety, and planted sometimes against Walls, but more commonly as Standards in Orchards and Gardens, or in Espaliers. Those intended for Dwarfs, whe- ther in Espaliers, or otherwise, should be grafted on the Codling, or the Paradise Stock; but if they are intended for Standards, the Crab Stock is much more durable and hardy. The proper Time for planting, in a dry Soil, is October, as soon as the Leaves are off; but, in wet Ground, it is most adviseable to de- fer it 'till February. And it will serve as an invari- able Maxim, that the greater Distance Fruit Trees are planted from each other the better; since the Trees will be more healthy, and afford much larger Crops. APRICOCK: 203 made Plain and Easy. APRICOCK OF this Fruit there are also various Sorts cultivated in English Gardens, viz. the Algier, Turkey, Roman, Breda, Orange, Masculine, and the Trans- parent Apricock; all which are propagated by budding them on Plumb Stocks; whereon, if the Stocks be free and thriving, they will grow with very little Dif- ficulty. An East or West Aspect is most suitable to this Fruit, because too much Heat is apt to make them mealy before they are ripe. The Borders under the Walls where they are planted ought to be at least two Feet wide, and about the same Depth of Earth: If the Soil is not good, fresh Earth from dry Pasture Ground is most proper. Before they are planted, cut off the small Fibres of the Root, and after they are put into the Ground, nail the Branches to the Wall in an horizontal Lino, and such Shoots as are proper to remain, ought not to be checked in their Growth, but those which are produced foreright, may be oc- casionally taken off, to prevent their hanging from the Wall. At Michaelmas, when the Growth is ceased, loose the Branches from the Wall, and shorten them according to their Strength; a weak Branch should be cut to about five or six Inches, and a strong one to about eight or nine; after this, nail them again in an horizontal Position, because they bud best. Observe this Method every Year, whereby the Tree may be kept full of bearing Wood, instead of being confined to the Ends of each Branch only. Blossoms are pro- duced from the Spurs of the two Years Wood, as well as from that of the last Year's Growth, as will be found by Experience; therefore great Care should be taken to preserve these in the Summer, but not to leave any Part of the Branches for Snags or Spurs. CHERRY 204 The whole Art of COOKERY CHERRY TREE. THE different Sorts of this Fruit, which are very numerous, are propagated from budding or graft- ing into Stocks of the Black or wild Cherry, which are strong shooting Plants, and of great Duration. Some of the Ancients used to graft this Fruit upon the Laurel Stock, which is said to give the Fruit an agreeable Bitter; but this Experiment is seldom tryed in England. The best Method of raising Stocks, is to take the wild black or red Cherries, when full ripe, and lay them in Sand for the Winter; early in the Spring sow them in light Ground, and when they appear, take Care to keep them clear of Weeds, re- freshing them frequently with Water, if the Season is dry: They should remain in the Seed-bed 'till the second Autumn after sowing; and in October plant them in Rows, about three Feet asunder, in good fresh Ground. The second Year after planting, they will be fit to bud. The Sorts usually planted against Walls, with a South Aspect, is the Early-May, and May-Duke; the Heart and common Duke will do upon a West Wall, and the Morello on a North. Morello Cherries are most esteemed for preserving, their Juice having a pleasant sharp Acid; but this Tree, when planted in a South Aspect, produces a rich and well tasted Fruit. It must be observed, in pruning the Cherry-tree, never to shorten the Shoots, because the Fruit is chiefly produced at the extreme Parts; therefore in the Spring the Shoots should be trained along the Wall in a horizontal Position. CURRANT TREE. THIS Tree is propapated with great Ease, by plant- ing the Cuttings any Time from September to March; but they are least liable to Misfortunes when planted 205 made Plain and Easy. planted about the latter End of September. The finest Fruit of this Kind is produced when they are planted against Walls, or in Espaliers, and the Shoots laid out horizontally. FIG TREE. THE best Method of propagating this Plant is from Layers, tho' many Gardiners are accustomed to raise them from the Suckers of old Trees. In Janu- ary lay down all the convenient strong Shoots, and they will be fit to transplant in twelve Months. A light sandy Soil is most proper; but Land that is cold and wet may be much improved by digging it about three Feet deep, and throwing in Rubbish from Build- ings, or Gravel, about a Foot deep, and then covered with two Feet of Earth. If they are for Standards, little Trouble is required; let them have a South As- pect, prune them in October, and take off all the second Crop of Figs, which are very detrimental, if left to rot upon the Tree. FILBERT, or NUT-TREE. ALL Kinds of Nuts are raised with very little Dif- ficulty, by sowing the Nuts; but as it seldom happens that those raised by this Method prove so good as the Nuts they are produced from, it is the surest Method of obtaining the Sorts desired to raise them from Layers, and is also the most expeditious Way. If you raise them from Seed, it is best to put the Nuts in Sand all the Winter to preserve them from Vermin. GRAFTING. I Shall first speak of the Implements made Use of, which are a Knife with a strong Back, a small Hand-saw, a Grafting-chissel, and small Mallet, and a Penknife to cut the Buds: You should also be pro- vided with Clay well prepared, and Bass-strings, or Woollen- 206 The whole Art of COOKERY Woollen-yarn to tie the Grafts. There are various Methods made use of according to the Size of the Stock; large Trees are grafted in the Rind, which is called Shoulder-grafting; Stocks of about an Inch, or two Inches Diameter, are cleft, and the Buds laid in; and Whip-grafting is made Use of where the Stocks are an Inch Diameter, and under, and is the most effectual Way of any, and at present most in Use: But as this has been so often treated of in Books of Gardening and Agriculture, I shall only give the necessary General Directions with Regard to the Stocks which different Fruits should be grafted upon. All such Trees as agree in Flower and Fruit, will take upon each other; For Example; all Nut-bearing Trees may be safely grafted on each other; as in like Manner may the Plumb-bearing Trees, under which Head I reckon not only the several Sorts of Plumbs, but also the Almond, Peach, Nectarine, Apricot, &c. All such Trees as bear Cones will do well upon each other, though they may differ in one being ever-green, and the other shedding its Leaves in Winter; as is observed in the Cedar of Libanus and the Larch-Tree; as also the Cherry on the Laurel, or the Laurel on the Cherry. See Inoculation. GOOSEBERRY-TREE. THIS Tree is raised from Cuttings in like Manner with the Currants, tho' it is very common to plant Suckers; but it has been found by Experience, that most Plants raised from Suckers are more produc- tive of them than any other, and therefore ought to be avoided. The different Sorts of Gooseberries are so numerous, that it would be difficult to ascertain how many there are; and new kinds are every Day produced, differing either in Taste, Shape, or Colour, by 207 made Plain and Easy. by sowing the Seeds; for Seeds of the same Tree will be productive of a great Variety of Sorts. INOCULATING or BUDDING. THIS is commonly practised upon all Sorts of Stone Fruit; in particular such as Peaches, Nectarines, Cherries, Plumbs, &c. as also upon Oranges and Jes- samines, and is preferable to any Sort of Grafting for most Kinds of Fruit. The Method of performing it is as follows: You must be provided with a sharp Penknife, having a flat Hast (the Use of which is to raise the Bark of the Stock, to admit the Bud) and some found Bass-mat, which should be soaked in Wa- ter, to increase its Strength, and make it more pli- able; then having taken off the Cuttings from the Trees you would propogate, you should chuse a smooth Part of the Stock about five or six Inches above the Surface of the Ground, if designed for Dwarfs; but if for Standards, they should be budded six Feet above Ground; Then with your Knife make an horizontal Cut cross the Rind of the Stock, and from the Middle of that Cut make a Slit downwards about two Inches in Length, so that it may be in the Form of a T: But you must be careful not to cut too deep, left you wound the Stock: Then having cut off the Leaf from the Bud, leaving the Foot-stalk remaining, you should make a cross Cut about half an Inch below the Eye, and with your Knife slit off the Bud, with Part of Wood to it, in Form of an Escutcheon: This done, you must with your Knife pull off that Part of the Wood which was taken with the Bud, observing whe- ther the Eye of the Bud be left to it, or not (for all those Buds which lose their Eyes in stripping, should be thrown away, being good for nothing) then having gently raised the Bark of the Stock with the flat Haft of your Penknife clear to the Wood, you should thrust 208 The whole Art of COOKERY thrust the Bud therein, observing to place it smooth between the Rind and the Wood of the Stock, cutting off any Part of the Rind belonging to the Bud, which may be too long for the Slit made in the Stock, and so having exactly fitted the Bud to the Stock, you must tie them closely round with Bass-mat, beginning at the under Part of the Slit, and so proceed to the Top, taking Care that you do not bind round the Eye of the Bud, which should be left open. When your Buds have been inoculated three Weeks or a Month, you will see which of them are taken; those of them which appear shrivelled and black, being dead; but those which remain fresh and plump, you may depend, are joined; And at this Time you should loosen the Bandage, which, if not done in Time, will pinch the Stock, and greatly injure, if not destroy the Bud. The March following you must cut off the Stock, about three Inches above the Bud, stoping it, that the Wet may pass off, and not enter the Stock: To this Part of the Stock left above the Bud, it is very proper to fasten the Shoot which proceeds from the Bud, and would be in Danger of being blown out, if not pre- vented: But this must continue on no longer than one Year, after which it must be cut off close above the Bud, that the Stock may be covered thereby. The Time for Inoculating is from the Middle of June until the Middle of August, according to the Forwardness of the Season, and the particular Sorts of Trees, which may be easily known, by trying the Buds whe- ther they will come off well from the Wood. But the most general Rule is, when you observe the Buds formed at the Extremity of the same Year's Shoots, which is a Sign of their having finished their Spring Growth. The first Sort commonly inoculated is the Apricot; and the last the Orange-Tree, which should never 209 made Plain and Easy. never be done until the Middle of August. And in doing of this Work, you should always make Choice of cloudy Weather, for if it be done in the Middle of the Day in very hot Weather, the Shoots will per- spire so fast, as to leave the Buds destitute of Moisture. Nor should you take off the Cuttings from the Trees long before they are used: But if you are obliged to fetch your Cuttings from some Distance, as it often happens, you should then be provided with a Tin In- strument, having a Socket about ten Inches long, and a Cover to the Top, which must have five or six Holes; in this Socket you should put as much Water as will fill it about two or three Inches high, and place your Cuttings therein in an upright Position, so that That Part which was cut from the Tree may be set in the Water, and so fallen down the Cover to keep out the Air; and the Holes in the Cover will be sufficient to let the Perspiration of these Branches pass off; which, if pent up, would be very hurtful to them: And you must be careful to carry it upright, that the Water may not reach to the Buds; for it is a very wrong Practice in those who throw their Cuttings all over in Water, which so saturates the Buds with Moisture, that they have no attractive Force left to imbibe the Sap of the Stock, whereby they very often miscarry. But before I leave this Head, I beg Leave to observe, that tho' it is the ordinary Practice to di- vest the Bud of that Part of the Wood which was taken from the Shoot with it; yet in many Sorts of tender Trees it is best to preserve a little Wood to the Bud, without which they often miscarry. The not obser- ving this, has often occasioned some People to imagine that some Sorts of Trees are not to be propagated by Inoculation; whereas, if they had performed it in this Method, they might have succeeded, as I have several times experienced. MUL- 210 The whole Art of COOKERY MULBERRY. IT has been usual to raise this Tree from Seeds, and from Layers; the Seeds indeed have been always productive of the most sightly Trees, but as these have generally proved of the Male Kind, they bear but little Fruit; and those from Layers are mostly crooked, and troublesome to form into handsome Trees: But the only Method to have full-grown Trees, and Plenty of Fruit in a few Years, is to take some handsome Branches, about as thick as a Man's Thigh, from large Trees in October, when the Leaves are fallen off; cut off the Tops and Boughs, and bark them at the thick End, about eight or nine Inches; plant them in lightish Ground, neither wet nor dry, where they will have the Benefit of the East and South East Sun, and if they are sheltered from the West and South West Winds, the Fruit will be bet- ter preserved. Six Stakes in the Ground to support them, in order to prevent their being shook by the Wind as they are striking Root. NECTARINE. THIS Tree is cultivated in the same Manner as the Peach, to which I shall refer my Reader in the following Article, PEACH. WE have a prodigious Catalogue of the different Sorts of this Fruit, but I consess that I could never convince myself that they were all real; how- ever, it must be confessed, that though we have not above two Sorts of them Natives of England, yet there are many other Species of this Plant in America. But let the Sort be what it will, a good Peach should have these Qualities: A firm thick Flesh, thin Skin, a deep or bright red next the Sun, small Stone, and full of high- 211 made Plain and Easy. high-flavoured Juice. The Peach and Nectarine are propagated to the greatest Perfection by Inoculation upon Stocks of the Muscle and white Pear Plumb; and some of the tender Sorts upon the Apricot and Almond Stocks. The Stocks are fit to bud upon at two Years old: The proper Season is about Midsum- mer; and great Care should be taken to make Choice of the Cuttings of Such Trees as are healthy and free from Blights; for if the Juice of the Tree is distem- pered, it can seldom be recovered by any Art. Your Cuttings should be taken from the Trees in a cloudy Day, or when the Sun is gone off. In pruning the Peach or Nectarine, take Care that the Tree be equally furnished with Bearing Wood, and not left too full of Branches. In May rub off the irregular Shoots, and train those that are left in regular Order: This Management will leave room for the Sun to ripen the Fruit, and prepare the young Wood for next Year's bearing. Too much cutting is of great Disadvantage to this Sort of Trees, their Wood being tender and subject to canker by the Wet before they are healed. When the Fruit is set, and about the Bigness of a Nut, you should carefully look over the Tree, and if they are in Clusters, thin them till they are at least five or six Inches asunder; for this will not only pre- serve the Strength and Vigour of the Tree, but make the Fruit much larger, and better tasted. PEARS. BUD or graft upon Stocks of their own Kind; these are called free Stocks, and upon these the Fruit is found to prosper best; but if they are intended for Dwarfs, it will be proper to check their Growth by budding or grafting upon the White Thorn or Quince Stock. The Fruit is produced from the Cursons or Spurs; so that if the Branches are laid horizontally against 212 The whole Art of COOKERY against a Wall they will be covered with Fruit more than twenty Feet from the Stem. The Standards, many of which are very large, are but fickle Bearers; and when they become old, it has often been found neces- sary to bark the Trunk of the Tree quite round two Feet from the Ground, to check their Growth and throw them into bearing Wood. PLUMB TREE. THIS Tree grows best in a Soil neither very light nor heavy; many Persons plant them as Stan- dards, but the Fruit is not so fair as when planted against Walls, and is more subject to be blown off. They are propagated by grafting or budding upon the Stocks of any Kind of free-shooting Plumb; the pro- per Time for removing or planting is October or February. RASBERRY. THIS is a Fruit well known, and easily cultivated, as they will grow in any dry Soil. Plant the Succours, in February or March, in Rows, at such a Distance as will permit you to walk between when they are grown up, both for the Conveniency of ga- thering the Fruit, and keeping them free from Weeds. When they have stood a few Years, it will be best to cut away the old Wood, and leave the young Shoots standing; by which Means the Fruit will be larger, and better flavoured. STRAWBERRIES. OF these there are five Sorts, viz, the large Chili Strawberry, the Hautboy, the Wood Strawberry, the Scarlet Virginia Strawberry, and the Common Strawberry: The best Soil for these Plants is a hazly Loam. The Ground should be cleansed from the Roots of noxious Weeds, and well dug. Plant them in Rows, that you can walk between them con- veniently, 213 made Plain and Easy. veniently, for they must be well watered in the Spring all the Time they are blowing; set the Plants about sixteen or eighteen Inches asunder, and in Autumn take away all the Strings or Runners, clear them from Weeds, and throw a little line Earth very thin upon the Beds. Michaelmas is the best Time for planting; and they must be kept clear of Weeds all the Year. WALNUT TREE. THIS Tree is best raised from Seed, and if it is in- tended for Timber, ought not to be removed, as it retards the Growth, and makes them break out in Branches, but if it is cultivated for Fruit, the trans- planting is of great Advantage. It delights in a rich loamy Soil that is firm, and will thrive well in chalky or stony Ground. It is a common Maxim, that this Tree bears best for being well beat and wounded, which Notion Mr. Miller says is ill founded; but Experience tells us, that whatever Methods are taken, that will cause a great Number of young Shoots to break out, Fruit will be plentifully produced, and beating is known to answer this End. If you would raise them from Seed, keep the Nuts in Sand till February before you put them in the Seed-bed, BLIGHTS; In what Manner they happen. WE are seldom troubled with this Disorder, but upon the Blowing of sharp easterly Winds, which are most frequent with us about March; whence that Month proves, of all others, the most fatal to Plants. From this Circumstance, some imagine the Colds that then reign, being exasperated by the eastern Winds, effect Blights; but Mr. Bradley furnishes a more plausible Account; for, on this Principle, it were hard to say, why one Plant, or one Part of a Plant, 214 The whole Art of COOKERY Plant, should be blighted more than another. He observes then, that Caterpillars generally attend those Winds, and that they infect some one Kind of Tree more than another, and even some particular Branch more than others; and thence infers, either that the Eggs of those Insects, or the Insects themselves, are brought to us by the easterly Winds; or that the Temperature of the Air, when the eastern Winds blow, is necessary to hatch those Creatures, supposing the Eggs to have been already laid on the infected Parts. Now each of these Causes seems to have its Effect; those Blights, attended with large Worms, or Caterpillars, seen hatched by the eastern Winds; and those others, which only produce the small In- fects, that occasion the Curling the Leaves of Trees, may proceed from Swarms of them, either ready hatched, or in the Egg, brought with the Wind. The Coldness of those Winds Mr. Bradley shews to be no Objection against their being fitted to hatch In- fects; different Insects requiring vastly different De- grees of Heat. To this he adds, that every Infect has its proper Plant, or Tribe of Plants, which it natu- rally requires for its Nourishment, and will feed on no other; and in which, therefore, it lays its Eggs; it is no Wonder then, that one Kind of Tree should be infected, and all the rest escape. The Wind which brings, or hatches, the Caterpillars on the Apple-tree, will not infect the Pear, Plumb, or Cherry; because, were the Shoals of Infects natural to the Apple, to light on those other Trees mentioned, they would either want their proper Matrix to hatch in; or, were they ready hatched, would perish for Want of proper Food: So that it is morally impossible, all Kinds of Plants should be blighted at the same Time, unless the Eggs of every Kind of Insect natural to each Tree, 215 made Plain and Easy. Tree, could be brought at one Time with the Wind; or that an easterly Wind could contain in it, at once, as many different Degrees of Cold, or Heat, as would be required to hatch and maintain each different Class of Infects, Nor is it any Objection, that in Blights there are not frequently any Animals immediately per- ceived. By the Microscope, we discover Animal- cules a Million of Times less than the smallest which comes under our ordinary Notice: These, the gent- lest Air may be conceived capable of blowing from Place to Place; so that it is no Wonder, if they be brought to us from the remotest Regions, especially the north-east Part of Great Tartary, &c. where the Cold is intense enough to give them Life; and from whence there is not Sea enough, by the Warmth and Saltness of whose Vapours they might be suffocated. Those brought from the north-east Parts of America, are probably destroyed by passing the vast Atlantic Ocean, which may be the Reason why the north-west Wind is not so infectious. To prevent Blights. THE more knowing among the Country People, while the easterly Winds blow, used to guard against them, by burning Heaps of Weeds, Chaff, &c. on the Wind-Side of their Orchards or Gardens, that the Smoke may either poison the Insects, or their Eggs, as they pass along. It may be added, that these Fires are often made with good Success to destroy the Caterpillars, even after they are hatched, and have begun to devour the Trees. Another Method of preserving Trees, &c. from Blights is, by sprink- ling Tobacco-dust, Tobacco-water, Pepper-dust, &c. which is present Death to all Insects and Animalcules. It is said that Lime, in fine Powder, or Lime-water, made very strong, answers the same End. 216 The whole Art of COOKERY CHAP. III. The Manner of Cultivating Flowers. AMARANTHUS. IN the East and West-Indies this Plant is cultivated in great Variety, but there are not more than ten or eleven Sorts produced in English Gardens: The Seeds of the various Sorts must be sown in February, or March, in a good Hot-bed, covered about four Inches thick with rich light Earth, and they will rise in about a Fortnight, at which Time you must have a second Hot-bed ready to receive them, with a deep Frame, to give Room for their growing: Plant them at the Distance of about four Inches, and be careful in transplanting that you break not the tender Fibers of the Root. Water them gently, so that the Plant break not down, and as they get Strength, give them a little Air in serene Weather, to enable them to bear being transplanted into Pots. When you transplant them into Pots, take Care to screen them from the Sun, and refresh them frequently with Water; let your Pots be sheltered from the Violence of the strong Winds, as well as the Sun, and water them every Day. The Amaranth is a tender Plant, and must be diligently followed, which Trouble, in a fine Season, is recom- penced by a wonderful large fine Flower, justly esteem- ed one of the greatest Ornaments of a fine Garden. ARICULA. THIS Flower is produced from Seed and from Slips. The Time of sowing is in Autumn, in a light sandy Mould, mixed with rotten Cow-dung, and put in Boxes or Pots. Remove them in March to some Part of the Garden, where they will not have too much Sun, 217 made Plain and Easy. Sun, and in July they will be large enough so trans- plant. The Spring following they will flower; when you will have an Opportunity of seeing which is good, and these may be propagated by taking Slips from the Root, when they are in Flower, and transplanting them; observing that they must not have too much Sun in the Summer, nor too much Wet in Winter. CARNATION. IT is impossible to enumerate the various Sorts of this Flower, since so many new ones are produced every Year from Seed, and are generally called by the- favourite Name of some Nobleman, or the Person who raised them. The Time for sowing is in March, in the same Kind of Earth as the Aricula: Take Care not to sow your Seed too thick, and sift some fine Mould very thin over the Pots; set the Pots where they will receive the Benefit of the Morning-Sun only, and refresh them frequently with gentle Waterings. They will soon appear, and may be transplanted into Beds, about three Inches did ant from each other, in July. In a Month's Time it will be proper to trans- plant them a second time at the Distance of about six Inches, where they may stand to flower. Let your Alleys that divide the Beds be at least two Feet broad, that you mav have Room to go between without hurting the Plants; and when they are in Flower, you will have an Opportunity of seeing which is worth propagating; this is done by Layers, which will strike Root so as to be fit to remove in about six Weeks. HOLLYHOCK. THESE Plants are raised from Seed, which should be sowed in March upon a Bed of fresh Earth; when the Plants are come up, and pretty strong; they must be transplanted into a Nursery-bed, about eight L Inches 218 The whole Art of COOKERY Inches asunder, and watered frequently 'till they have taken Root; after which, keep them clear from Weeds, and they will require no farther Care 'till about Michaelmas, at which Time it is proper to transplant them again into Rows two Feet asunder: Here let them remain 'till they flower, and such as prove good, may be removed to ornament proper Places. Put down Stakes to prevent the Wind from breaking them down, and when the Stalk decays, cut it off. You should raise a fresh Supply every three or four Years, because the Plant grows weaker, and should be dug up in that Time to make Room for young Plants. HONEY-SUCKLE. THIS Plant, for the Fragrance of its Smell, Beauty, and long Continuance in Flower, is justly ad- mired, and is a proper Ornament for a Wall, a Tree, an Espalier, or as a Dwarf in a Border. They are propagated from Layers, or from Cuttings; if from Cuttings, take off Branches that have four Joints, or Buds, and plant them in Rows about eighteen Inches a-part; this may be done either in the Spring or Au- tumn, and when they have stood about a Year, they will be fit to transplant; or they may stand two Years, as is most convenient. JESSAMINE. THE Jessamine is easily propagated by laying down the tender Branches in the Spring, which will be rooted and fit to transplant the Spring following. They may also be raised by planting the Cuttings in March in a damp Soil and skreened from the Violence of the Sun. This Method is not much practised, as the Plants are seldom so good as those raised from Layer. JON- 219 made Plain and Easy. JONQUILL. IN England few Persons have Patience to produce this Flower from the Seed, as it is five Years in coming to Perfection; for which Reason the new Sorts are genarally the Produce of Holland. Our Method of propagating them is from Off-sets, or small Roots divided from the old ones; The Time of planting them is about the latter End of September, when they should be planted in Beds or Borders separate from the other Roots, because they require being dug up and transplanted every Year. The Soil which best suits- them is a Hazly Loam, not over stiff, nor yet too light; it is also remarkable that where they have too rich a Soil, they never continue good; so that nothing is required but a fresh loamy Soil, free from Roots and noxious Weeds. LILLY of the VALLEY. THIS Plant delights in shady moist Ground, and is propagated by separating the Roots, and trans- planting them early in the Spring, before they begin to shoot. This Plant is judged worthy of Cultivation for the well-known physical Qualities of its Root, as well as Beauty of its Flower, and is found in the Woods in for Parts of England. We have also a double Sort brought from Holland some Years ago; but whether produced originally from Seed, or found by Accident, is uncertain. PINKS. These are propagated by Layers In the same Man- ner as Carnations: as also by planting Cuttings- in July, and by sowing Seeds. They require very little Care when planted on Borders, only to be well watered while they are blowing; during which Season no Flower has a more beautiful Appearance, or affords a more agreeable Smell. L2 POLY- 220 The whole Art of COOKERY POLYANTHUS. THIS Primrose, or Polyanthus, may be annually produced from Seed, and requires but very little Culture; by this Means too new Sorts are produced in great Variety; But if you would have any particu- lar one, it must be propagated from a Slip, as the Seed scarce ever produces the same Kind. The Seed is ripe about the Beginning of June, which is seen by the Pods changing brown and opening. The Pro- perties of a good Flower are large upright Stems, pro- ducing many Flowers on a Stalk, the Flowers large, beautifully striped, and such as open flat. They should be sown about the Middle of March in a fine light, rich Soil, under a Wall, or Hedge, with a North, or northward Aspect; as soon as they are up in five or six Leaves, it will be proper to prick them out in shady Borders, where they are intended to blow. The Beauty of these Flowers, when the good Sorts are se- lected from the rest, are not inferior to Ariculas. RANUNCULUS. THE different Sorts of this Flower are propagated some from Seeds, others from the Off-sets of the Root: For it will be found that the way double Sorts never produce Seed, for which Reason the same Change cannot be expected. The Seeds of the other Kinds are sown about the Middle of March, in Pots, or Boxes, filled with fine light Earth under a Wall, with a South-east Aspect. After sowing, sift a little of the Earth lightly over them, and as the Sun has more Influence, remove them to a cooler Aspect. The proper Time for planting the Roots is in Octo- ber: And good Florists never blow their Ranunculas two Years in the same Earth. ROSE- 221 made Plain and Easy, ROSE-TREE. OF this Shrub there are forty-six different Kinds, many of which are found in the Hedges in dif- ferent Parts of England and Scotland; others are of foreign Growth; but they are all hardy enough to bear our Climate, and are propagated by Layers, or Succours, which may be planted out either in the Spring or Autumn: If in the Spring, they should be well watered, and often. SNOW-DROPS. THIS Plant is easily propagated by Off-sets; for where they remain two or three Years undisturb'd, each Bud will have ten or a Dozen flowering Roots, and the like Number of Off-sets. The Snow-Drop is valued, as being the Flower that ushers in the Spring. They will thrive in almost any Soil, and may be planted in any Situation. The best Season for transplanting them is in May; when they must be taken up, and after being dried in a shady Place, it will be unnecessary to put it in the Ground again till September, when they should be planted about two Inches deep, and pretty dose together, because the Flower is small, and without this makes but a poor Appearance. STOCK-JULY-FLOWERS. COME People prefer the planting Slips from the double Sorts of this Flower, but as they seldom produce strong Plants, it will be found most practi- cable to raise them from Seed in the Month of April, or Beginning of May; they require a light rich Earth, and the Morning Sun: They are indeed somewhat subject to be destroyed by the Fly; to prevent which, throw a small Quantity of Radish-seeds into the Bed, and the Fly will adhere to those only. As soon as they are 222 The whole Art of COOKERY are up in five Leaves, transplant them into good rich Beds, and let them stand till they are about six Inches high; frequently refreshing them with Water, and taking Care that they are not over-powered by the Sun before they strike Root. Here let them stand till they shew their Bloom, in order to distinguish which is double, and those that you preserve must be taken up with as much Earth as possible to root when you re- move them where they are to stand. SUN-FLOWER. THIS Plant is raised from Seeds, sown in March, in the same Manner as the Hollyhock, to which, for the sake of avoiding Repetition, I refer the Reader. SWEET-WILLIAM. THERE are about seven different Kinds of this Flower; the single ones are propagated by Seeds, sown in the latter End of March in light Earth; which will be fit to transplant into Beds, at the Distance of about six Inches, in May; where they may remain- till Michaelmas following, when they may be trans- planted into the Wilderness, or Pleasure Garden. The double ones are propagated by Layers in the same Manner as Carnations, and when pat in Pots, are pretty Ornaments for Courtyards, or Balconies. TULIP. IT would be in vain to endeavour to enumerate the various Sorts of this Flower; for what are valued by some, are by others rejected and deemed of little Worth; However it may not be improper to point out the Characteristicks of a good Tulip, which should have a strong tall Stem; the Flower should consist of six Leaves, three within, and three without, the for- mer of which ought to be larger than the latter; the Bottom of the Leaves should be proportioned to the Tops, and the upper Part should be rounded off in- stead 223 made Plain and Easy. stead of terminating in a Point: These Leaves, when opened, should stand erect, neither turning inward, nor bending out; the Flower should be of a middling Size, with small but regular Stripes rising quite from the Bottom of the Flower; and the Chives should be yellow, but of a brownish Cast. This Sort of Flower is universally allowed by Judges to be good. As to the Management of a Tulip, a great many Persons pretend to much more Knowledge than is real, espe- cially in regard to breaking the Breeders. These who would cultivate this Flower from Seed, will find it most expedient to gather their Seed from the Breeders, as these will produce the strongest and best Plants. The Beginning or Middle of September is the proper Time for sowing, when shallow Pans, or Boxes, should be provided, with Holes thro' the Bottom, to let out the Wet; these being filled with light sandy Earth as even as possible, and the Seeds placed at a regular Distance, sift over them a little of the same Earth, about the Thickness of half an Inch; let these Pans, or Boxes, receive the Benefit of the Morning Sun till October, and then remove them where they will have the Sun upon them all Day, and be sheltered from the North Winds for the Winter Season; in the Spring let them be again removed to the Morning Sun; and, if the Season is dry, refresh them occasion- ally with a little Water, till the Tops begin to decay; after this, give them no more Water, but remove them into the Shade for the Summer, where they will be free from the Drop of Trees. The first Appearance of these Plants are somewhat like the Onion, with bending Heads, and the Leaves seldom expand much the first Year, as they seldom appear till the latter End of March, and decay again about the Beginning of June. Keep the Boxes clear from Weeds and Moss, 224 The whole Art of COOKERY Moss, and put a little fine Earth over them occasion- ally, to preserve the Roots, giving them the Benefit of the Sun in Winter, as before. In the Spring fol- lowing plant the Bulbs out into a Bed of light sandy Earth, with Tiles under it to prevent their shooting downwards; Plant them about two Inches deep, and in October cover the Beds over with a little more fresh Earth, to preserve the Roots; covering the Beds with Mats to save it from the Frost while the Roots are young and tender. Let the Bulbs remain in these Beds for two Years, keeping them clear from Weeds, and refreshing them with Water occasionally; and at Spring and Autumn sift on a little fresh Earth. When the Bulbs are large enough to blow, plant them out into fresh Beds to see what Flowers they will produce, which cannot be judged of till they have flower'd two or three Years, Tulip Roots should be taken up every Year as soon as the Leaves are decayed, and being carrfully dried, and preserved from the Vermin, may be planted again at about the Distance of ten Inches square, the latter End of September, or sooner. Take Care that the Wet do not lay upon the Roots in Winter, for that is very destructive. VIOLET. THIS Plant is found wild in many Places, and the single Sort is that which affords so fine an Odour; but as the other Sorts are beautiful to the Eye, they are frequently diversifyed in Borders of Gardens. The Violet is an Annual, but requires no further Care than to plant a few Roots, and keep them clear of Weeds; for they sow themselves plentifully. FINIS.