INSTRUCTIONS 
TO THE 
Captain of the Life-Saving Stations 
OF THE 
HUMANE SOCIETY OF MASSACHUSETTS, 
WITH 
DIRECTIONS FOR THE TREATMENT OF 
THE APPARENTLY DROWNED, Etc. 
BOSTON: 
PUBLISHED FOR THE SOCIETY. 
1885. INSTRUCTIONS 
• TO THE 
Captains of the Life-Saving Stations 
OF THE 
HUMANE SOCIETY OF MASSACHUSETTS, 
WITH 
DIRECTIONS FOR THE TREATMENT OF 
THE APPARENTLY DROWNED, Etc. 
BOSTON: 
PUBLISHED FOR THE SOCIETY. 
i 8 8 5. INSTRUCTIONS 
TO THE 
CAPTAINS OF THE EMM STATIONS 
OF THE 
HUMANE SOCIETY OE MASSACHUSETTS. 
Captains in charge of the Humane Society’s Stations 
should not only make themselves familiar with the care 
and use of all the different apparatus at their stations, 
but should endeavor, by every means, to keep their 
neighbors interested in the Society’s work; instructing 
them in the use of the apparatus by occasional practice 
drills, so that in time of need they may work together 
quickly and intelligently. 
REWARDS FOR SERVICE. 
The Society can afford to pay Captains only a small 
sum annually, for their trouble in keeping their stations 
in good order, but will reward, as liberally as possible, 
all actual service in the Society’s cause. 
The object of the Society is the preservation of 
human life, and it is strictly prohibited to launch its 
boats, or use its apparatus to save property for purposes 
of salvage. 4 
Deeds of exceptional bravery will be especially 
rewarded with the Society’s Medal. 
REPORTS. 
Captains must make full reports each quarter, of the 
condition of everything in their charge on the blank 
forms provided for the purpose ; and, whenever assist- 
ance is rendered from their stations, they should, at 
once, report the case in 'writing as fully as possible. 
Wreck reports are also provided which, in event of a 
wreck, must be filled out and mailed to the Society 
at once. 
DIRECTIONS FOR CARE OF STATION AND APPARATUS. 
Keep the Station-house perfectly clean, and, from 
time to time, air it well. See that the gear is kept dry 
to prevent mildew. See that all the Society’s property 
is properly marked with the Society’s name ; for brand- 
ing the oars and other wooden articles a branding iron 
is furnished. 
Keep everything in its proper and most convenient 
place, and allow no property, not belonging to the 
Society, to be kept in the house. 
When any article is worn out or lost, give immediate 
notice, so that it may be replaced without delay ; and 
call attention at once to anything that, in your opinion, 
will make your equipment more efficient. 
BOATS. 
Run the boat into the water at least once a year, and 
occasionally throw a little salt water into the bottom to 
keep it tight. 5 
Keep everything belonging to the boat in it ready for 
instant use, namely : the oars, an anchor and cable, a 
small grapnel to throw into the rigging of a wreck, a 
heaving stick and line, a boat hook, and two balers. 
GUN AND LIFE-LINES. 
Gun. In place of the old-fashioned mortar for throw- 
ing a line to a stranded vessel, the Society uses Hunt’s 
gun and projectiles. Keep the gun well covered with 
black varnish. Always have on hand six projectiles, 
twelve cartridges, and two dozen primers. To load the 
gun, raise the muzzle and put in the cartridge. Settle 
the projectile firmly over the cartridge, heavy end down, 
leaving the winged end projecting from the muzzle. 
Hitch the end of the line hanging from the projectile to 
the end of the shore shot-line. Place the latter at one 
side of the gun to leeward, drawing out a fathom of 
slack line in front of the gun. In firing, put the friction 
primer in the vent, hook on the laniard, and, in pulling 6 
the latter, be careful not to jerk the gun out of position 
and spoil the aim. If possible, aim the gun between 
the masts of a wreck, but at any rate to windward of 
any remaining spar, so that the line may more surely 
be caught by the crew of the vessel. 
The life-line apparatus consists of the following parts : 
1. Shot-line.—This is a small line of braided linen, 
to be shot oft' to a wreck. As the Hunt projectile carries 
the shot-line coiled up in its after end, it does not have 
to drag the line through the air, as is the case when the 
mortar and other life-line guns are used, but the line is 
simply uncoiled and left behind the projectile in its 
flight. 
To afford elasticity and provide against sudden jerks, 
in case the projectile line should jam at all in uncoiling, 
a second length of shot-line is provided in a can or reel 
to be placed beside the gun to leeward. The ends of 
the shot-line and the second line are of course tied 
together before the gun is fired. 
2. Whi'p-line and Tail-blocks.—The shot-line is 
used by the crew of a wreck to haul off a tail-block, 
through which the bight of the whip-line (i 1-4 inch 
manilla) is rove. Tally-board No. 1 is tied to the 
tail-block directing the crew to “make the tail-block fast 
to the lower mast, well up; if masts are gone, then 
to the best place you can find. Cast off shot-line, see 
that the rope in the block runs freely, and show signal 
to the shore.” 
The whip-line is coiled on two reels in a box, one- 
half on one reel, and the other half on the other reel, 
so that each part runs out separately as the whip-line is 
hauled off to the wreck. After the tail-block is made 7 
fast, the remaining length of line on the reels is cut off; 
one end of the whip-line is passed through a second 
tail-block, and is made fast to the other end. The 
whip-line then makes an endless rope, one part for the 
ozithaul and the other the inhaul. 
3. Hawser.—The hawser is a three-inch manilla 
rope, and is hauled off to a wreck by the whip-line-. 
On the uppermost end of the hawser-coil, which is the 
end, of course, to be hauled off to the wreck, is tally- 
board No. 2, directing the crew to “make this hawser 
fast about two feet above the tail-block; see all clear, 
and that the rope in the block runs freely, then signal to 
the shore.” 
4. Breeches-Buoy.—This is a large circular cork 
life-preserver, to the under side of which is 
a pair of canvas breeches. The buoy is suspended by 
four rope legs meeting over the centre, and hitched to a 
large lizzard or snatch-block, so that it can travel on the 
hawser. 
5. Sand-Anchor and Pennant.—The sand-anchor 
is a simple plank, or sometimes two planks, in form of a 
cross, with the legs pivoted at the centre, for easy stow- 
ing. The anchor is buried in a hole dug in the beach. 
At the centre of the anchor is a strap into which the 
pennant is hooked. The pennant has a snatch-block at 
the other end through which the shore part of the hawser 
is to be rove. 
6. Tackle.—A tackle of two double tail-blocks, 
with a two and one-half inch fall, is used to haul the 
hawser taut between the wreck to the beach. One tail- 
block is hitched to the standing part of the hawser, and 8 
the other to the end which has been rove in the snatch- 
block on the anchor pennant. Setting up the tackle 
will thus haul the hawser taut. 
7. Crotch. — To hold the shore end of the hawser 
as high as possible, it is placed in the jaws of a wooden 
crotch, which is to be set up on the beach outside of the 
tackle just described. 
CART. 
To carry the life-line apparatus, a cart is provided, 
which must be kept ready for leaving the station in- 
stantly, with all the apparatus aboard. Beneath, in their 
beckets, a shovel and pick. Inside, an axe; the hawser 
neatly coiled in the middle, with tally-board No. 2 
attached to its upper end, so that it may be sure to go 
off to the wreck; the reel-box, with the whip-line rove 
through its tail-block, with tally-board No. 1 attached 
to the tail of the block; then the breeches-buoy, crotch, 
sand-anchor, and the tackle ; and, finally, on top of all, 
the gun. The tarpaulin cover must always be kept 
lashed over the cart and its contents. 
In the box, at the front of the cart, are racks for the 
projectiles, and places for the cartridges, primers, and 
laniard. 
Keep the lantern, on the front of the cart, always 
trimmed and filled. See also that the axles are well 
greased that the wheels may run easily. 
When the hawser and whip-lines are new stretch them 
well, with the tackle, to get out all tendency to kink, 
and coil the hawser in a large coil, carefully, so that it 
may run off easily. This is very important, to avoid 
trouble when the time for use arrives. 9 
PROCEDURE IN EVENT OF A WRECK. 
When a wreck is reported in the neighborhood, call 
or send for the men on whom you rely. On arrival at 
the station, keep cool, do not be in too great haste, but 
stop and think a moment over the best plan of action, and 
be sure before leaving that everything is ready. On 
reaching the shore, make signals to the crew of the 
wreck that help is at hand. 
If the gun and life-lines are to be used, the following 
directions should be followed : 
Take from the cart the gun and apparatus, and while 
the former is being placed in position, let one hand see 
that the reel-box and whip-line are ready and clear to 
run smoothly. Two or more men may, at the same 
time, take the rest of the apparatus from the cart and 
arrange the different parts on the beach. They should 
then dig a hole and bury the sand-anchor, leading the 
pennant out in front of it. 
When the gun is fired, one man stands by the shore- 
coil of shot-line, and as soon as he sees that the shot- 
line has fallen across the wreck he must cut off the rest 
of the coil and hitch the end to the bight of the whip- 
line, just below the tail-block. The tail of the latter 
must also be hitched to the shot-line farther out, so that 
it reaches the wreck first. Be as quick as possible in 
doing this, as the crew of the wreck will probably seize 
the shot-line and haul off at once. 
While the whip-line is being hauled off, one man 
should stand by each part, paying out evenly, and 
holding the parts twenty feet from each other to prevent 
turns. . 
As soon as the whip-line has reached the wreck, cut 
off the remaining lengths on the reel, pass one of the 
ends through the inshore tail-block — which should then 10 
be made fast to the pennant half-way down from the 
snatch-block — and knot or splice the two ends together. 
Next bend the leeward part of the whip-line to the 
upper end of the hawser (to which tally-board No. 2 is 
attached), making fast two or three fathoms outside of 
the knot, so that the crew on the wreck may not untie 
the knot and cast the ends adrift, which would, of 
course, make the whip useless. 
When the hawser is made fast, man the weather part 
of whip-line and haul out the hawser, one man tending 
the lee part and another the hawser. The former should 
hold the whip-line wide apart from the hawser to prevent 
turns. 
When signal is made from the wreck that the hawser 
is fast there, haul it hand-taut and put the bight through 
the pennant snatch-block ; bend the inner tackle-block to 
the hawser just inside (that is on the shore-side) of the 
snatch-block; overhaul the tackle and bend the outer 
tackle-block to the standing part of the hawser as far 
out from the pennant as possible (as shown in the ad- 11 
joining figure), and set taut on the tackle. When the 
tackle is block-a-block, and the hawser is still not taut 
enough, rack the two parts of the hawser together, 
overhaul the tackle, make fast as before, and again set 
taut. 
Before the hawser is quite taut, set up the crotch 
under it near the edge of the beach, with the legs in 
and the jaws out, raise it up a little, and as the hawser 
is gradually set taut it will help pull the crotch upright. 
It is well to put the legs of the crotch between the 
two parts of the whip, so that they will be sure to be 
kept separate. 
When the hawser is thus set up, haul in the knot of 
the whip-line, cast it off and make the two ends fast to 
opposite sides of the breeches-buoy, then haul off the 
breeches-buoy, and as soon as some one on the wreck 
is seated in it, haul back, repeating the operation until 
all are landed. 
Note. — The two cuts, on pages 9 and 10, are reproduced from the 
“Instructions to Mariners in case of Shipwreck,” U. S. Life-Saving 
Service. DIRECTIONS 
FOR 
RESTORING THE APPARENTLY DROINEB, 
Rule I. Arouse the -patient. — Unless in danger of 
freezing, do not move the patient, but instantly expose 
the face to a current of fresh air, wipe dry the mouth 
and nostrils, rip the clothing, so as to expose the chest 
and waist, and give two or three quick, smarting slaps 
on the stomach and chest with the open hand. If the 
patient does not revive, then proceed thus : 
Rule II. To draw off water, etc., from the stomach 
and chest.— (See Fig. i.)—If the jaws are clenched, 
Fig. 1. 13 
separate them, and keep the mouth open by placing 
between the teeth a cork or small bit of wood ; turn the 
patient on the face, a large bundle of tightly-rolled 
clothing being placed beneath the stomach, and press 
heavily over it for half a minute, or so long as fluids 
flow freely from the mouth. 
fc'ig'. «f>. 
Rule III. To Tr°duce breathing.—(See Fig. 2.)— 
Clear the mouth and throat of mucus, by introducing 
into the throat the corner of a handkerchief wrapped 
closely around the fore-finger; turn the patient on the 
back, the roll of clothing being so placed beneath it as 
to raise the pit of the stomach above the level of any 
other part of the body. If there be another person 
present, let him, with a piece of dry cloth, hold the tip 
of the tongue out of one corner of the mouth (this 
prevents the tongue from falling back and choking the 
entrance to the windpipe), and with the other hand 
grasp both wrists and keep the arms forcibly stretched 
back above the head, thereby increasing the promi- 
nence of the ribs, which tends to enlarge the chest. 14 
The two last-named positions are not, however, essential 
to success. Kneel beside or astride the patient's hips, 
and with the balls of the thumbs resting on either side 
of the pit of the stomach, let the fingers fall into the 
grooves between the short ribs, so as to afford the best 
grasp of the waist. Now, using your knees as a pivot, 
throw all your weight forward on your hands, and at the 
same time squeeze the waist between them, as if you 
wished to force everything in the chest upward out of 
the mouth; deepen the pressure while you can count 
slowly one, two, three ; then suddenly let go with a final 
push, which springs you back to your first kneeling 
position. Remain erect on your knees while you can 
count one, two, three ; then repeat the same motions as 
before at a rate gradually increased from four or five to 
fifteen times in a minute, and continue thus this bellows 
movement with the same regularity that is observable in 
the natural motions of breathing which you are imitating. 
If natural breathing be not restored, after a trial of the 
bellows movement for the space of three or four minutes, 
then, without interrupting the artificial respiration, turn 
the patient a second time on the stomach, as directed in 
Rule II, rolling the body in the opposite direction from 
that in which it was first turned, for the purpose of free- 
ing the air-passages from any remaining water. Con- 
tinue the artificial respiration from one to four hours, or 
until the patient breathes; and for a while, after the 
appearance of returning life, carefully aid the first short 
gasps until deepened into full breaths. Continue the 
drying and rubbing, which should have been unceas- 
ingly practiced from the beginning, taking care not to 
interfere with the means employed to produce breathing. 
Thus the limbs of the patient should be rubbed, always 
in an upright direction towards the body, with firm- 
grasping pressure and energy, using the bare hands, 15 
dry flannels or handkerchiefs, and continuing the fric- 
tion under the blankets or over the dry clothing. The 
warmth of the body can also be promoted by the appli- 
cation of hot flannels to the stomach and arm-pits, 
bottles or bladders of hot water, heated bricks, etc., to 
the limbs and soles of the feet. 
Rule IV. After Treatment. — Extemially: As 
soon as breathing is established, let the patient be stripped 
of all wet clothing, wrapped in blankets only, put to 
bed comfortably warm, but with a free circulation of 
fresh air, and left to perfect rest. Internally: Give a 
little brandy and hot water, or other stimulant at hand, 
every ten or fifteen minutes for the first hour, and as 
often thereafter as may seem expedient. Later mani- 
festations: After reaction is fully established, there is 
great danger of congestion of the lungs, and if perfect 
rest is not maintained for at least forty-eight hours, it 
sometimes occurs that the patient is seized with great 
difficulty of breathing, and death is liable to follow 
unless immediate relief is afforded. In such cases, apply 
a large mustard-plaster over the breast. If the patient 
gasps for breath before the mustard takes effect, assist 
the breathing by carefully repeating the artificial respi- 
ration. « 
Note.—An eminent authority, Dr. Labordette, the 
Supervising Surgeon of the Hospital of Lisieux, in 
France, appears to have established that the clenching 
of the jaws and the semi-contraction of the fingers, 
which have hitherto been considered signs of death, are, 
in fact, evidences of remaining vitality. After numer- 
ous experiments with apparently drowned persons, and 16 
also with animals, he concludes that these are only 
signs accompanying the first stage of suffocation by 
drowning, the jaws and hands becoming relaxed when 
death ensues.* This being so, the mere clenching of 
the jaws and semi-contraction of the hands must not be 
considered as reasons for the discontinuance of efforts 
to save life, but should serve as a stimulant to vigorous 
and prolonged efforts to quicken vitality. Persons en- 
gaged in the tasks of resuscitation are, therefore, earn- 
estly desired to take hope and encouragement for the 
life of the sufferer, from the signs above referred to, 
and to continue their endeavors accordingly. In a 
number of cases, Dr. Labordette restored to life persons 
whose jaws were so firmly clenched that, to aid respira- 
tion, their teeth had to be forced apart writh iron instru- 
ments. 
* The muscular rigidity of death (rigor mortis) occurs later, after the 
temporary relaxation here referred to. INSTRUCTIONS 
FOR 
Saving Drowning Persons by Swimming 
to their Relief. 
1. When you approach a person drowning in the 
water assure him, in a loud and firm voice, that he is 
safe. 
2. Before jumping in to save him, divest yourself as 
far and as quickly as possible of all clothes; tear them 
off, if necessary; but if there is not time, loose, at all 
events the foot of your drawers, if they are tied, as, if 
you do not do so, they will fill with water and drag you. 
3. On swimming to a person in the sea, if he be 
struggling, do not seize him then, but keep off for a few 
seconds till he gets quiet, for it is sheer madness to take 
hold of a man when he is struggling in the water, and 
if you do you run a great risk. 
4- Then get close to him and get fast hold of the 
hair of his head, turn him as quickly as possible on to 
his back, give him a sudden pull, and this will cause 
him to float, then throw yourself on your back also and 
swim for the shore, both hands having hold of his hair, 
you on your back and he also on his, and of course his 18 
back to your stomach. In this way you will get sooner 
and safer ashore than by any other means, and you can 
easily thus swim with two or three persons; the writer 
has even, as an experiment, done it with four, and gone 
with them forty or fifty yards in the sea. One great 
advantage of this method is that it enables you to keep 
your head up, and also to hold the person’s head up you 
are trying to save. It is of primary importance that 
you take fast hold of the hair and throw both the per- 
son and yourself on your backs. After many experi- 
ments it is usually found preferable to all other methods. 
You can in this manner float nearly as long as you 
please, or until a boat or other help can be obtained. 
5. It is believed there is no such a thing as a death- 
grasp; at least it is very unusual to witness it. As soon 
as a drowning man begins to get feeble and to lose his 
recollection, he gradually slackens his hold until he 
quits it altogether. No apprehension need, therefore, 
be felt on that head when attempting to rescue a drown- 
ing person. 
6. After a person has sunk to the bottom, if the 
water be smooth, the exact position where the body lies 
may be known by the air-bubbles, which will occasion- 
ally rise to the surface, allowance being of course made 
for the motion of the water, if in a tide-way or stream, 
which will have carried the bubbles out of a perpen- 
dicular course in rising to the surface. A body may be 
often regained from the bottom, before too late for 
recovery, by diving for it in the direction indicated by 
these bubbles. 
7. On rescuing a person by diving to the bottom, the 
hair of the head should be seized by one hand only, and 19 
the other used, in conjunction with the feet, in raising 
yourself and the drowning person to the surface. 
8. If in the sea, it may sometimes be a great error 
to try to get to land. If there be a strong “ outsetting ” 
tide, and you are swimming either by yourself, or 
having hold of a person who cannot swim, then get on 
your back and float till help comes. Many a man 
exhausts himself by stemming the billows for the shore 
on a back-going tide, and sinks in the effort, when, if 
he had floated, a boat or other aid might have been 
obtained. 
9- These instructions apply alike to all circum- 
stances,— whether as regards the roughest sea or 
smooth water. 20 
TREATMENT OE FROST-BITE* 
Frost-bite is the result of exposure to severe cold. 
The vitality of the part affected is reduced to a very 
low point, loses its natural color, and becomes blue or 
purple. 
Treatment. — Bring about reaction gradually by 
friction. Place the patient in a room without a fire, and 
avoid heat. Rub the part with snow or other cold appli- 
cation, and administer brandy and water carefully in 
small quantities. If a person is found insensible from 
cold he must be kept away from the heat. Remove the 
clothing and rub thoroughly with snow or cloths wrung 
out in cold water. Continue the friction, especially to 
the extremities, until signs of recovery appear. Arti- 
ficial respiration may be necessary. Give brandy and 
beef tea in small quantities. 
* From “ First Aid to the Injured.”