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■ijinU £   'ui.ni
NATIONAL LIBRARY OF MEDICINE
        Bethesda, Maryland
kJ i it 
 
 
Kays' . .     „    'rged Edit.
MACKENZIE'S
FIVE   THOUSAND   RECEIPTS
IN ALL THE
WLwful  auir  momtutit  Mvtu:
CONSTITUTING
A  COMPLETE  PRACTICAL  LIBRARY
Agriculture,
Bees,
Bleaching,
Brewing,
Calico Printing,
Carvingrat Table,
Cements,
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	RELATIVE TO
Crayons, Dairy, Diseases,	Gardening, Gilaing, Glass,
Distillation,	Health,
Dying, Enamelling,	Inks, &c. Jewellers' Pastes,
Engraving, Farriery, Food,	Lithography, Medicines, Metallurgy,
Oil Colours,
Oils,
Painting,
Pastry,
Perfumery,
Pickling,
Pottery,
Preserving,
Scouring,
Silk,
Silk worms,
Silvering,
Tanning,
Trees of all kinds,
Varnishing,
Water Colours,
Wines,
  &c. &c. &c.
        SI Neto American, from t^e latest Hon&on lEttftfon.

WITH NUMEROUS AND IMPORTANT ADDITIONS GENERALLY; AND THE MEDICAL PART CAREFULLY
       REVISED AND ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATE OF THE U. STATES ; AND ALSO A NEW
                         AND MOST COPIOUS INDEX.

                  BY AN AMERICAN  PHYSICIAN.
PUBLISHED BT
JAMES  KAY, JUN. AND BROTHER, PHILADELPHIA.
                    122 Chestnut Street—near 4th.
JOHN I  KAY & CO., PITTSBURGH. 
Eastern District of Pennsylvania, to wit
  BE  IT REMEMBERED, That on the twe^-fifth day of September, in the fifrv-third year of the In-
dependence of tne United States of America, All).  1829, James Kay, Jr. & do. of the said District, have
deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as proprietors, in the wo 2b following,
to wit:

  " Mackenzie's Five Thousand Receipts in all the useful and domestic arts: constituting a complete practical
library relative to  agriculture, bees, bleaching,  brewing, calico printing, carving at table, cements, confec-
tionary, cookery, crayons, dairy, diseases,  distillation, dying, enamelling, engraving, farriery, food, garden-
ing, gilding, glass, health, inks, &c. jeweller's pastes, lithography, medicines, metallurgy, oil colours, oils,
painting, pastry, perfumery, pickling, pottery, preserving, scouring, silk, silk worms, silvering, tanning, trees
of all kinds,  varnishing, wate- colours, wines, &c.  &c. <fcc.   Fourth A.iierican, from the  latest  Lcndon
edition.  With numerous and important  additions generally; and the medical part carefully revised ind
adapted to the climate of the U. States; and also a new and most copious Index.  By an American Physician.''

  In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States, entitled " An Act for the Encouragement
of Learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors  of such
copies, during the  times  therein mentioned;" and also to an Act, entitled, " An Act  Supplementary to an
Act, entitled 'An Aci  for the encouragement of  learning^by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books,
to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times  therein mentioned,' and extending the benefits
thereof to the arts of  designing, engraving, and  etching, historical and other prints."
                                                                            D. CALDWELL,
                                                        Clerk of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. 
             PREFACE

TO THE  LATEST  LONDON EDITION.
  As the object of all  study,  and the
end  of  all wisdom, is practical utility,
so a collection of the most approved Re-
ceipts, in all  the arts of Domestic and
Social Life,  may  be considered  as  a
volume  containing nearly the whole of
the wisdom of man, worthy of preserva-
tion.  In truth, the present volume has
been compiled under the feeling, that if
all other books of Science in the world
were destroyed, this single volume would
be found to  embody the results  of the
useful  experience,  observations,  and
discoveries of mankind  during  the past
ages of  the world.
  Theoretical reasonings and historical
details have,  of  course, been  avoided,
and the object of the compiler has been
to economise his  space, and  come at
once  to  the point.   Whatever  men do,
or desire to do, with the materials with
which nature has  supplied  them, and
with the powers which  they possess, is
here plainly taught and  succinctly pre-
served;   whether it regard  complicated
manufactures, means of  curing diseases,
simple processes of various kinds, or the
economy, happiness, and preservation of
life.
  The best  authorities  have been re-
sorted to, and innumerable volumes con-
sulted, and wherever different processes
of apparently equal value, for attaining
the same end,  have been  found, they
have been introduced.
  Among the works consulted have been,

The Monthly Magazine, 56 vols.
The Repertory of Arts and Sciences, 60 vols.
The London Journal of Arts and Sciences.
The Transactions of the Society of Arts, 30 vols.
The Magazine of Trade and Manufactures, 6
  vols.
The Gazette of Health, 9 vols.
The Series of the Horticultural Society, 5 vols.
The Series of the Agricultural Society, 30 vols
The Farmer's Magazine, 16 vols.
Young's Farmer's Calendar.
Loudon on Gardening, 1 vol.
Jennings's Domestic Cyclopaedia, 2 vols.
Ting re y on Varnishing.
Richardson on the Metallic Arts.
Thomas's Practice of Physic.
Cooper's Dictionary of Surgery.
"Phornton's British Herbal.
Waller's Ditto.
Imison's School of Arts,
Handmaid to the Arts.
Smith's Laboratory of the Arts.
Hamilton on Drawing.
The Editor's Thousand Experiments in Ma
  nufactures and Chemistry.
Davy's Agricultural Chemistry.
Henry's Elements of Chemistry.
Chaptal's Chemistry applied to the Arts.
Gregory's Cyclopaedia.
The English and other Cyclopaedias.

  Besides innumerable treatises on spe-
cial subjects, minor journals, and a great
variety of manuscript communications
from friends and connexions of the edi-
tor and publisher.
  A general,  rather than  a scientific,
arrangement has been adopted, because
the  object of the work is  popular and
universal, and, though  likely to be use- ,
ful to men of science,  it  is  more  espe-
cially addressed to the public at large.
In like manner, as far as possible, tech-
nical  and scientific language  has  been
avoided, and popular names and simple
descriptions have been  preferred.
  Every care has been taken in the print-
ing to avoid errors in quantities, as well
as to select  the" best  receipts  of  each
kind; but notices of errors, omissions,
or experimental improvements,  will  be
thankfully received by the publisher, for
the use of future editions.
  The Index will render it easy to refer
to every article of importance. 
              PREFACE

TO THE FOURTH AMERICAN EDITION.
  Ik fulfilling the duty of preparing for
the press a new and enlarged edition of
the valuable  work  of Mackenzie, the
Editor has steadily borne  in  mind its
evident aim at general practical utility;
and consequently he has submitted both
alterations and additions  to its rules.
While the former  will be found bft
few,—a circumstance arising  from the
nature of the book; the latter are both
numerous  and important,—amounting
to about  fifty pages, exclusive of those
contained in  the Miscellaneous Depart-
ment and  the Appendix.
  The Medical part has been condensed,
simplified, and adapted to the climate
and diseases  of the United  States.   A
short, but complete manual of "Direc-
tions for rearing the Silk Worm, and the
Culture of the White  Mulberry Tree,"
together with an extensive article on the
Diseases  of the Horse, may be noticed
as among  the important additions.  The
Culinary art  has not  been  neglected—
the numerous original receipts from
the best  modern   authorities  of the
"Kitchen," for preparing various deli-
cacies of the  animal and vegetable king-
dom,  including Pastry, Puddings, &c.
will no doubt prove acceptable to Ame-
rican housekeepers.  The man of family,
the Sportsman, the Artist, the Mechanic,
and the Farmer  have  all been remem-
bered.   And  an  unusually large and
correct Index gives  every facility of re-
ference that could be wished.
  The attention of the Reader is called
to the "Miscellaneous Receipts."  In
this portion, which is  very copious, nu-
merous receipts have been placed, which
could not with propriety  be elsewhere
arranged.  It has also been  made  the
receptacle of much valuable matter ob-
tained from several kind female friend9
and the fruit of researches into  many
curious and rare books; and which was
prepared at too late a period for insertion
in  the  appropriate departments.   The
Appendix of  "Instructions in the Art
of  Carving,"  with its  numerous  wood
cuts, will, it is hoped, prove acceptable
and useful to our country readers, for
whose  accommodation this work was
originally designed.
   The  Editor  more  especially notices
the  following works,  as sources  from
.which he has derived considerable  as-
sistance:  The  Franklin Journal;  Wil-
lich's Domestic Encyclopedia, by Pro-
fessor Cooper; a Tract published by the
Pennsylvania  Society for  the Rearing
of  Silk Worms, &c; and the curious
work of  Colonel  Hanger,  of sporting
memory.
   In conclusion, the publishers beg leave
to  state,  that  neither time  nor expense
has been  considered in endeavouring to
render  this  edition cheaper and  better
than any other which has been published,
and at the same time worthy  of the pa-
tronage which is solicited for  it.   They
have availed themselves of the services
of  a gentleman as Editor, who has been
for a considerable time engaged in the
preparatory researches. The type, though
small, is  very legible and  distinct; and
in the selection of the paper,  whilst re-
gard has  been had to  the  colour,  it has
been deemed of main importance that it
should be sufficiently durable to resist the
frequent  usage into which a work of this
description  must necessarily be called. 
THE
vsNmu&aiUL  WBiNUHra  wtwsu
PRACTICAL  LIBRARY.
METALLURGY.
     ASSAYING OF METALLIC ORES.

     Before metallic ores are worked upon  in the
     large way, it will be necessary to inquire what
 sort of metal, and what portion of it, is to be found
 in a determinate quantity  of the ore; to discover
 whether it will be worth while to extract it largely,
 and in what manner the process is to be conducted,
 so as to answer that purpose.  The knowledge re-
 quisite for this is called the art of assaying.
          Assay of ores in the dry -way.
  The assaying of ores may be performed  either
 in the dry or moist way; the first is the most an-
 cient, and,  in many  respects, the most advanta-
 geous, and consequently still continues to be mostly
 used.
  Assays are made either  in crucibles with the
 blast of the bellows, or in tests under a muffle.
                Assay -weights.
  The assay weights are always imaginary,  some-
 times an ounce  represents a hundred weight on the
 large scale,  and is subdivided into the  same num-
 ber of parts, as that hundred weight is in the great;
 so that the contents of the ore, obtai .ed by the as-
 say, shall accurately determine by such relative
 proportion the  quantity to be expected  from any
 weight of the ore on a larger scale.
               Roasting the ore.
  In the lotting of the ores, care  should be taken
 to have small portions from different specimens,
 which should be pulverized, and well mixed in an
 iron or brass mortar.  The proper quantity  of the
 ore is now taken, and if it  contain either sulphur
 or arsenic, it is put into a crucible or test, and ex-
 posed to a moderate degree of heat, till no vapour
 arises from  it;  to assist  this volatilization, some
 add a small  quantity of powdered charcoal.
                   Fluxes.
  To assist the fusion of the ores, and to convert
 the extraneous matters connected with them into
 scoria, ^ssayers use different kinds of fluxes.   The
 most usual and efficacious  materials for  the com-
 position of these are, borax, tartar, nitre, sal am-
 moniac, common salt, glass, fluor-spar, charcoal
 powder, pitch, lime, litharge, &c. in different pro-
 portions.
  As the whole process of which we are speaking
 , merely an experiment, made for the purpose of
 ascertaining  what is the nature of the metal con-
tained in the ore, and the  proportion  the former
bears to the latter; the little additional expense in-
curred by employing  animal instead of  vegetable
charcoal is not to be regarded, particularly,  when
the increased fusibility of the ore, occasioned there-
by, is considered.  For the  mode of preparing it
see charcoal, article dentifrice.
             Crude or -white flux.
   This consists of 1 part of nitre, and 2 of tartar,
 well mixed together.
                  Black flux.
 a The  ahove crude flux detonates by means of
 kindled charcoal, and it the detonation be effected
 in a mortar slightly covered, the  smoke that rises
 unites with the alkalized nitre and the tartar, and
 renders it black.
             Cornish reducing Jlux.
   Mix  well together 10 ounces of tartar,  3 ounces
 and 6 drachms of nitre, and 3 ounces and 1 drachm
 of borax.
             Cornish refining Jlux.
   Deflagrate, and afterwards pulverize, 2 parts of
 nitre, and 1 part of tartar.
   The above fluxes answer the purpose very well,
 provided the ores be deprived of all their sulphur;
 or, if they contain  much earthy matters,  because,
 in the latter case, they unite with them, and con-
 vert them into a thin glass: but if any quantity of
 sulphur remain, these fluxes unite with it,  and
 form a liver of sulphur, which has the power of
 destroying a portion of all the metals; consequent-
 ly, the assay under such circumstances  must be
 very inaccurate.   The principal difficulty in assay-
 ing appears to be in the appropriation of the pro-
 per fluxes to  each particular ore, and it  likewise
 appears, that such a discriminating knowledge can
 only be acquired from  an extensive  practice, or
 from a  knowledge of  the chemical affinities  and
 dctions  of .different bodies upon each other.
   In assaying, we  are  at liberty to use the most
 expensive materials to effect our purpose,  hence
 the use  of different saline fluxes, but in the work-
 ing at large, such  expensive means cannot be  ap-
 plied; as by such  processes the  inferior rnetals
 would be too much enhanced  in value, especially
 in working very poor ores. In consequence ot which,
 in smelting works, where the object is the produc-
 tion of metals' in the great way, cheaper additions
 are used; such as lime-stone, feldt-spar, fluor-sj m;
 quartz,  sand,  slate, and slags.  These are  to  be
 chosen according to the different views of the ope-
 rator, and the nature of the ores.  Thus iron ores,
 on account of the argillaceous  earth they contain,
 require calcareous additions, and the coppei ores,
 rather slags or vitrescent stones,  than calcareous
 earth.
         Humid assay of metallic ores.
  The mode of assaying ores for  their particular
 metals by the drv way, is deficient so far as relates
05 pointing out the different substances connected
 with them, because they are always destroyed  by
the process for obtaining the assay  metal.  The  as-
say by the moist way is more correct, because the 

6
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 different substances can be accurately ascertained.
 The late celebrated Bergmann first communicated
 this method.   It depends upon a knowledge of the
 chemical affinities of different bodies for each other;
 and must bo. varied according to the nature  of the
 ore;  it is very extensive in its  application, and re-
 quires great patience and address  in its execution.
 To describe the treatment of each  variety  of me-
 tallic ores would take up too much of our  room;
 but to give a  general idea, we shall describe the
 procedure, both in the dry and the humid way, on
 one species of all the different ores.
                To assay iron ores.
   The ore must be roasted till the vapour  ceases
 to arise.  Take 2 assaj quintals of it, and triturate
 them  with one of fluor-spar, | of a quintal of pow-
 dered charcoal, and 4 quintals of decrepitated sea
 salt; thi's mixture is to be put into a crucible, lined
 on the inside  with clay and  powdered eh-ru-ccal;  a
 cover must be luted upon the  crucible,  and  the
 crucible itself exposed to a violent fire for an hour,
 and  when it is cool, broken.   When, if the  opera-
 tion has been well conducted, the iron will  be found
 at the bottom of the crucible; to which  must be
 added those metallic partreles, which  may adhere
 to the scoria.   The metallic particles  so adhering
 may be separated, by pulverizing  it in paper, and
 then attracting them with a magn-'  r.
  Another mode.—If the ore should be in a calci-
 form  state,  mixed  with earths, the  roasting of it
 previous to assaying, if not detrimental, is at least
 superfluous; if the earths should be of the argilla-
 ceous and siliceous kind, to half a quintal of  them,
 add of dry quick lime and fluor-spar of each 1 quin-
 tal and £, reduced to powder, and  mix them with
 £ of a quintal of powdered charcoal, covering the
 whole with one ounce of decrepitated common salt;
 and expose the luted crucible to a  strong forge fire
 for an hour and a quarter, then let it gradually cool,
 and let the regulus  be struck off and weighed.
  Another.—If the ore contain calcareous  earth,
 there will be no occasion to  add  quick lime; the
proportion of the ingredients may  be as follows:—
viz. 1  assay quintal of the ore; 1  of decrepitated
sea-salt;  $ of powdered charcoal; and  1 of  fluor-
spar, and the process conducted as above.
  There is a great difference in the reguli of iron;
when the colo  regulus is struck with a hammer and
breaks, the iron is called cold short: if it break on
being struck red-hot, it is called red short:  but if
 it resist the hammer, both in its cold  and ignited
 Btate, it is good iron.
            Humid assay of iron ore.
  To assay the calciform ores,  which do not con-
 tain much earthy or stony matter, they must  be re-
 duced  to a fine powder, and dissolved in the marine
 acid, and precipitated by the Prussian  alkali.  A
determinate quantity of the Piussian alkali  must
be tried previously, to ascertain the portion of iron
which it  will precipitate, and the estimate  made
 accordingly.   If the iron contains any considerable
 portion of zinc or manganese, the precipitate must
 be calcined to redness, and the calx treated with
dephlogisticated nitrous acid, which will then take
up only the  calx of zinc;  when this is separated,
the calx should again be treated either with nitrous
acid, with the addition of sugar, or  with the acetous
acid, which will  dissolve  the manganese, if any;
the remaining  calx of iron may then be dissolved
by the marine acid,  and precipitated  by the  mine-
ral alkali; or it may be farther calcined, and then
 weighed.
                   Zinc ores.
  Take the  assay weight  of roasted ore, and mix
 it well with l-8thpart of charcoal dust,  put it into
 a strong luted earthen retort, to which must be
 fitted a receiver; place the retort in a furnace, and
 j raise the fire, and continue it in a violent heat for
 J two hours, suffer it then to cool gradually, and the
 I zinc will be found adhering to the neck of the re-
 I tort in its metallic form.
               In the humid -way.
    Distil vitriolic acid over calamine to dryness; the
  residuum must be lixiviated in hot water; w'\it re-
  mains undissolved is siliceous earth; to the solu-
 i tion add caustic volatile alkali, which precipitates
  the 'won and argil, but keeps the zinc in solution.
 ' The  precipitate must  be redissolved  in  vitriolic
  acid, and the iron and argil separated.
                     Tin ores.
    Mix a quintal of tin ore^ previously washed, pul-
  verized, and roasted, till no arsenical  vapour arises,
  with half a quintal of calcined borax, and the same
  quantity of pulverized pitch:  these are to be put in
  a crucible moistened with charcoal-dust and water,
  and the crucible placed in an air-furnace.   After
  the pitch is burnt,  give a violent heat for a $ of an
 I hour, and  on withdrawing the crucible, the regulus
 I will be found at the bottom.  If the ore be not well
 I washed from earthy matters,  a larger quantity of
  borax  will be requisite, with some powdered glass;
  and if the  ore contain iron, some alkaline salt may
  be  added.
                 In  the humid -way.
   The assay of tin ores in the liquid way was looked
  upon as impracticable, till Bergmann devised the
  following  ..lethod, which  is generally successful.
  Let the tin ore be  well  separated from its stony
  matrix, by well washing, and then reduced to the
  most subtle powder; digest it in concentrated oil
  of vitriol,  in  a  strong heat for several hours, then,
  when cooled, add a small  portion  of concentrated
  marine acid,  and suffer it to  stand for an hour or
  two; then add water, and when the solution is clear,
  pour it off, and precipitate it by fixed alkali—131
  grains of  this precipitate,  well washed  and dried,
  are equivalent to 100 of tin in its reguline state, if
  the precipitate consist of pure tin;  but if it contain
  copper or iron, it must be c.ilcined in a red heat
  for an hour, and then  digested  in  nitrous acid,
  which  will take up the copper; and afterwards in
 marine acid,  which will separate the  iron.
                    head ores.
   As most of the lead ores contain either sulphur
 or arsenic, they require to be  well  roasted.  Take
 a quintal of roasted ore, with the same quantity of
 calcined borax, ^ a quintal of fine powdered glass,
 a | of a quintal of pitch, and  as much  clean  iron
 filings.   Line the crucible with wetted charcoal
 dust, and  put the mixture into the crucible, and
 place it before the bellows of a forge-fire.   When
 it is red hot,  raise the fire for 15 or 20 minutes,
 then withdraw the  crucible,  aud  break it when
 cold.
                In the humid ivay.
   Dissolve the ore  by boiling  it in dilute nitrous
 acid: the  sulphur, inojluble stony  parts, and  calx
 of iron will remain.  The iron may be separated by
 digestion in the marine acid, and  the sulphur by
 digestion in caustic fixed alkali.  The nitrous solu-
 tion contains the lead and silver, which  should  be
 precipitated by the mineral fixed alkali, and  the
 precipitate well washed in cold water,  dried, and
 weighed. Digest it in caustic volatile alkali, which
 will take up the calx of silver; the residuum, being
 again dried and  weighed, gives the proportion of
 the  calx of lead, 132 grains of which  are equal  to
 100 of lead in its metallic state.  The difference
 of weight  of the  precipitate before and after the
 application of the volatile alkali, gives the quan-
j tity of silver,  129 grain9 of which are  equal to 100
i of silver in its metallic state.
                   Copper  ores.
I   Take an exact troy ounce of the ore, previously 
METALLURGY.
7
pulverized, and calcine it well*  stir it all the time
with an  iron  rod,  without removing it from the,
crucible; after the calcination  add an equal quan-
tity of borax, half the quantity of fusible glass, one-
fourth the quantity  ot  pitch, and a little charcoal
dust; rub the inner  surface of the crucible with a
paste composed of charcoal-dust, jf little fine pow-
dered clay, and water.  Cover the mass with com-
mon salt, and  put a "lid upon the crucible, which is
to be placed in a furnace: the fire  is to be  raised
gradually, till it  burns briskly, and  the crucible
continued in it for half an hour, stirring the metal
frequently with an  iron rod, and  when the scoria
which adheres to the rod appears clear, then the
crucible must be taken out, and suffered to cool;
after which it must be broken,  and the regulus
separated and  weighed; this is called black copper,
to refine which,  equal parts of common salt and
nitre are to be well mixed together.   The black
copper is brought into fusion, and a tea-spoonful of
the flux is thrown upon it, which is repeated three
or four times, when the  metal  is poured into an
ingot  mould,  and the button is found  to be fine
copper.
               In the humid -way.
  Make  a solution of vitreous copper ore, in 5
times its weight of concentrated vitriolic acid, and
boil it to dryness; add as  much  water as will  dis-
solve the vitriol thus formed;  to this solution add
a clean bar of iron, which will precipitate the whole
of the copper in its  metallic form.  If the solution
be contaminated with iron, the copper must be re-
dissolved  in the  same  manner,  and precipitated
again. The sulphur maybe separated by filtration.
  Copper, precipitated from its  solutions  by  any
igent whatever,  is  always  in the  state of a  fine
loose powder.  A solid malle. Me mass of it how-
ever may  be oLtfeined in the  humid way,  by ex-
posing solutions of the sulphate, obtained from the
calcination pf  copper with sulphur, to the  air,  hi
tubs.   After a cer'ain  period, buttons of the pure
metal, eq'ial in specific gravity to fused copper,  will
be found deposited  on the sides of the vessel.
                 Bismuth ores.
  If the ore be mineralized by sulphur, or sulphur
and iron, a previous roa. ting will Le necessary.
The strong ores require no roasting, but only to be
reduced to a fine  powder.  Take the  assay weight
and mix it with half the quantity of calcined borax,
and the  same  of pouuded glass; line the crucible
with charcoal; melt it  as quickly as possible;  and
when well  done,  take  out the crucible, and let it
cool gradually.   The regulus  will be found at the
bottom.
               In the humid -way.
   Bismuth is easily soluble  in nitrousacid or aqua
regia.  Its solution is colourless, and isprecipitabls
by the addition of pure water; 118 grains of the
precipitate  from nitrous acid,  well washed  and
dried,  are equal to  100 of bismuth  in  its metallic
form.
                 Antimonial ores.
   Take a common crucible, bore a number of small
holes in the bottom, and place it in another cruci-
ble a size smaller, luting them well together; then
put the proper quantity of ore in small lumps  into
the upper crucible, and lute thereon a cover; place
these vessels on a hearth, and  surround them with
scones about six inches distant from them; the in-
termediate space must be filled with ashes, so that
the undermost crucible may be covered with them;
but upon the upper, charcoal must be laid, a:id the
wnole  made red hot by the assistance of hand  bel-
lows.   The  antimony being of easy  fusion  is
sepaiated, and runs through the holes of the upper
vessel  into the inferior one, where it is collected.
       Humid assay of arseniated antimony.
   Dissolve the ore  in aqua regia, both the regulus
 and arsenic remain in  the solution, the sulphur ii
 separated by filtration.  If the solution be  boiled
 with twice Its  weight of strong  nitrous acid,  the
 regulus of antimony will be precipitated, and  the
 arsenic, converted into an  acid, which may be  ob-
 tained by evaporation to dryness.
                 Manganese ores.
   The regulus is  obtained  by mixing the calx or
 ore of manganese with pitch, making it into a ball,
 and putting '.t into a crucible, lined with powdered
 charcoal, l-10th of an  inch on  the sides, and £ of
 an inch  at bottom, then  filling the empty  space
] with charcoal dust, covering the,<sucible with  an-
t othf»r inverted and luted on, and exposing it to  the
| strongest heat of a forge for an hour or more.
                In the hw^iid -way.
   The ores should be first well roasted to dephlo-
[ gisticate the  calx of manganese and iron, if any,
i and then treated with nitrous acid to  dissolve the
J earths.   The residuum should now be treated with
| nitrous acid and sugar, by which means a colour-
j les3 solution  of manganese  will be obtained, and
 likewise of the iron, if any.   Prtxipitate with the
 Prussian alkali, and digest the precipitate in pure
 water; the prussiate of manganese will be dissolved
 whilst the prussiate of iron will remain undissolved.
                 Arsenical ores.
   This assay is made by sublimation in close ves-
 sels.  Beat the ore into small pieces, and put them
 into a matrass, which place  in a  sand pot, with a
 proper degree of heat: the arsenic sublimes in this
 operation, and  adheres to the upper part of the
 vessel; when it must be carefully collected with a
 view to ascertain its weight.  Sometimes a single
 sublimation will not !>e sufficient, for  the arsenic
 in many  cases will  melt with the ore, and prevent
 its total  volatilization; .in which  case, it is  better
 to perform the first sublimation  with a moderate
 heat, and afterwards bruise  the remainder  again,
 and expose it to a stronger heat.
                In the humid way.
   Digest the ore in marine acid, adding the nitrous
 by degrees to help the solution.  The sulphur will
 be found on the filter; the arsenic will remain in
 the solution,  and may be precipitated in its metal-
 lic form  by zinc, adding spirit of wine to the solu-
 tion.
                    JVickel ore.
   The ores must be well roasted to expel the sul-
 phur and arsenic; the greener the calx proves du-
 ring this torrefaction, the more it abounds  in the
 nickel; but the redder it is,  the more  iron it con-
 tains.  The proper quantity of this roasted  ore is
 fused in an open crucible, with twice or thrice its
 weight of black flux, and the  whole covered with
 common salt.  By exposing  the  crucrble to the
 strongest heat of a forge fire, and making the lusion
 complete, a regulus will be produced.   This regu-
 lus is not pure, but contains a portion of arsenic,
 cobalt, and iron.  Of the  first it  may be deprived
 by a fresh calcination, with the addition of  pow-
 dered charcoal; and of the second by. scorification;
 but it is with difficulty that it is entirely freed from
 the iron,
                In the  humid -way.
   By solution in nitrous acid,  it is freed from  its
 sulphur; and by adding water  to the solution, bis-
 muth, if any, may be preci^'tated; as  may silver,
 if contained in it, by the marine acid; and copper,
 when any, by iron.
   To separate cobalt from nickel, when the cobalt
 is in considerable quantity, drop a saturated  solu-
 tion of the roasted  ore  in nitrous aeid  into liquid
 volatile alkali; the cobaltic pait is instantly redis-
 solved, and assumes a garnet colour; w^&u filtered,
 a grey  powder remains  on the  filter, wfifoh  is the
 nickel.   The cobalt may be precipitated fron; the
 volatile alkali by any acid. 
ECEIPT  BOOK.
 8                             UNIVERSAL Rl

                   Cobalt ores.
   Free them as much as possible from earthy mat-
 teis by well washing, and  from sulphur and arsenic
 by roasting. The ore thus prepared is to be mixed
 with three parts of black flux, and a little decrepi-
 tated sea-salt; put the mixture in a lined crucible,
 eover it, and place it in  a forge fire, or in a hot
 furnace, for this ore is very difficult of fusion.
   When well  fused, a metallic regulus will be
 found  at the bottom, covered with a scoria of a
 deep blue  colour:  as almost all cobalt ores con-
 tain  bismuth, this  is  reduced by the  sa.ne opera-
 tion  as the  regolus of cobalt; but as they are inca-
 pable  of chemically  uniting together,  they  are
 always found distinct from each other in the cruci-
 ble.   The  regulus of bismuth, having a greater
 specific gravity, is always at  the bottom, and may
 be separated by a blow with a hammer.
               In the humid -way.
   Make a solution  of the ore in nitrous acid, or
 aqua regia, and evaporate to dryness; the residuum,
 treated with the acetous acid, will yield to it the
 cobaltic part; the arsenic  should be first precipi-
 tated by the addition of water.
                Mercurial ores.       ,
  The calciform ores of mercury are easily reduced
 without any addition.  A  quintal of the ore is put
 into  a retort, and a receiver  luted on,  containing
 some water; the retort is placed in a sand bath, and
 a sufficient  degree  of heat given it, to force  over
 the mercury which is condensed in the water of the
 receiver.
         Sulphuretted mercurial ores.
  The sulphurous ores are assayed by distillation
 in the manner above, only these ores require an
equal weight of clean  iron filings to be mixed  with
them, to disengage the sulphur,  while the  heat
volatilizes the mercury, and forces it  into the re-
ceiver.  These ores should likewise  be tried for
cinnabar, to know whether it will answer the pur-
 pose of extracting H from them; for  this a deter-
minate quantity of the ore is finely powdered  and
 put into a glass vessel, which is  exposed to a gen-
tle heat at first, and gradually increased till nothing
more is sublimed.   By the quantity thus acquired,
a judgment may be formed  whether the process
 will  answer.  Sometimes this cinnabar is not of so
 lively a colour as  that which is used  in trade; in
 this case it may be refined by a second sublimation,
 and if  it be still of too dark a colour, it may be
 brightened  by the addition of a quantity of mercury,
 and  subliming it again.
            Humid assay  of cinnabar.
   The stony matrix should be dissolved in nitrous
 acid, and the cinnabar being disengaged, should be
 boiled'in 8  or  10 times its weight of aqua regia,
 composed of3 parts of nitrous, and 1 of marine acid.
 The mercury  may be precipitated in  its running
 form by zinc.
                  Silver  ores.
   Take the assay  quantity of the  ore finely pow-
 dered, and roast it well in a proper degree of heat,
 frequently  stirring it with an iron rod; then add to
 it about double the quantity of granulated lead, put
 it in a covered crucihle, and  place it in a furnace;
 raise the fire  gently  at first,  and  continue to in-
 crease it gradually, till the metal  begins to work;
 if it should appear too thick, make it thinner by
 the  addition of a little  more lead;  if the metal
 should boil too rspidly, the fire should  be diminish-
 ed.  The surface will be covered by degrees with i
 a mass of scoria, at which time the metal should be j
 carefully stirred with an  iron hook heated, espe- |
 cially towards the border, lest any of the ore should ;
 remain undissolved; and if what is adherent to the
 hook when raised  trom the crucible melts quickly j
 Vgain, and the extremity of the hook, after it is |
 grown cold is covered with a thin, shining, smooth
 crust, the scorification is perfect; but, on the con-
 trary, if while stirring it, any considerable clammi-
 ness is perceived in the scoria, and when it adneres
 to the hook, though red hot, and appears unequally
 tinged,  and seems dusty or rough, with grains in-
 terspersed here  and there, the scorification  is in-
 complete; in consequence of which the fire should
 he increased a little, and what adheres to the hook
 should  be  gently beaten off, and returned with  a
 small ladle  into the  crucible again.   When the
 scorification is perfect, the metal should be poured
 into a cone, previously rubbed with a little tallow,
 and when it becomes cold, the scoria may be sepa-
 rated by a few strokes of a hammer.  The button
 is the produce of the assay.
                 By cupeHation.
  Take the assay quantity  of ore, roast and  griod
 i« with an equal  portion of litharge, divide it into
 2 or 3 parts, and wrap each up in a small piece of
 paper; put a cupel previously  seasoned under  a
 muffle,  with about  six times the' quantity of lead
 upon it.  When the lead begins to work, carefully
 put one of the papers upon it,  and after this  is ab-
 sorbed, put on a second, and so on till  the whole
 quantity is introduced; then raise the  fire, and as
 the scoria is formed,  it will be  taken up by the
 cupel, and  at last the silver will remain alone.
 This will be the produce of the assay, unless the
 lead contains a small portion of  silver,  which may
 be discovered by putting an equal quantity of the
 same lead on another cupel, and working it  off at
 the same time; if any silver be produced it must
 be deducted from the assay.  This is called the
 witness.
              In the  humid -way.
  Boil vftreous  silver  ore  in  dilute nitrous  acid,
 using about 25 times its weight,  until the sulphur
 is quite exhausted.  The silver may be precipitat-
 ed from the solution  by marine acid, or common
 salt; 100 grains  of this precipitate contain 75 of
 real  silver; if it contain any gold it will remain un-
 dissolved.  P'ixed alkalies precipitate the earthy
 matters, and the  Prussian  alkali will showif any
 other metal be contained in the solution.
           7 o assay the value  of silver.
  The general method of examining the purity of
 silver is by mixing it  with  a quantity of lead pro-
 portionate to the supposed portion of alloy; by test-
 ing  this mixture,  and afterwards weighing the
 remaining  button of  silver.  This is the  same
 process as refining silver by cupellation.
  It  is supposed  that the mass  of silver  to be exa-
 mined,  consists of 12  equal parts,  called  penny-
 weights; so that  if an ingot weighs an ounce, each
 of the parts will  be 1-I2th of an ounce.   Hence, if
 the mass of silver be pure, it is called silver  of 12
 penny-weights; if it contain 1-12th of its weight of
 alloy, it is called silver of 11 penny-weights; it 2-
 12'hs of its weight be  alloy, it is called silver of
 10 penny-weights; which parts of pure silver are
 called 5 penny-weights. It must be observed here,
 that  assayers  give  the name  penny-weight  to a
 weight equal to 24 real grains, which must not be
 confounded with their ideal weights. The assayers'
 grains are called fine grains.   An ingot of fine sil-
ver,  or silver of  12 penny-weights, contains, then,
288 fine grains;  if this  ingot contain  l-288th of al-
loy, it is said to  be silver of 11 penny-weights and
23 grains; if it contain  4-288ths of alloy, it is said
to be 11 penny-weights, 20 grains, Sec.  Now a
 certain real  weight must be taken to represent the
assay-weights: for instance, 36 real  grains repre-
 sent  12 fine penny-weights; this  is sundivided into
 a sufficient number of other smaller weights, which
 also  represent fractions of fine penny-weights and
 grains.  Thus, 18 real grains represent 6 fine peu- 
*
METALLURGY.
9
	dwt.	gr. dwt.gr.	Requires	from
	f 11	6 to----	5 to 6^	•ri
	0	12 to----	8 to 9	3g
e	19	18 to 9 0	12 to 13	-?
	8	6 to 7 12	13 to 14	>l°
*	6	18 to 6 0	14 to 15	SS
	3	0 to 1 12	Oto 16	£■5
	I	12 to 0 18	Oto 20	is
ny-weights; 3 real grains represent 1 fine penny-
weight, or 24 grains; a real grain and a half repre-
sent 12 fine grains; l-32d of a real grain represents
a quarter of a fine grain, which is only 1-752(1 part
of a mass of 12 penny-weights.
             Double assay of silver.
  It is customary to make a double  assay.  The
silver for the assay should be taken from  opposite
sides of the ingot, and tried on a touch stone.   As-
sayers know prettj nearly the value of silver merely
by the look of the ingot, and still better by the test
of the touch stone.  The quantity of lead to be
added  is regulated by the portion of alloy, which
being in general copper, will be nearly as follows:
           Of silver
          wt. gr. d\
          11   6  to
           0  12  to
          19 18  to
           8   6  to
           6 18  to
           3   0  to
           I 12  to
  The cupel must  be heated red hot for half an
hour before any metal is put upon it,  by which all
moisture is expelled.  When  the cupel is almost
white by heat, the lead  is put into it, and the fire
increased till the lead  becomes red hot, smoking,
and agitated by a motion of all its parts, called its
circulation.  Then the silver is to be put on the
cupel, and the fire continued till the silver has en-
tered the lead; and when the mass circulates well,
the heat must oe diminished by closing more or
less the door of the assay furnace. The heat should
be so regulated, that the metal  on its surface may
appear convex and ardent, while the  cupei is less
red; that  the smoke shall rise to the roof of the
muffle; that undulations shall be made in all direc-
tions; and that the middle of the metal shall appear
smooth, with a small circle of litharge,  which is
continually imbibed  by the cupel.   By this treat-
ment the  lead and alloy will be entirely aosorbed
by  the cupel, and the  silver  become bright  and
shining, when it  is said to lighten; after which, if
the operatioi. has been well performed, the silver
will be covered with rainbow colours, which quick-
ly undulate and cross each other, and then the but-
ton becomes fixed and solid.
  The diminution of weight shows the quantity of
alloy.   As all lead contains a small portion oi sil-
ver, an equal weight with that used in the assay is
tested off, and the product deducted from the assay-
weight. This portion is called the witness.—Ri-
chardson's Metallic Arts.
        Ores and earths containing gold.
  That which  is now  most  generally used is by
amalgamation,  the  proper quantity  is taken  and
reduced to a powder; abo'it one-tenth of its weight
of pure quicksilver is added, and the whole tritu-
rated in an iron mortar.  The attraction subsisting
between the gold and quicksilver, quickly unites
them in the form of an amalgam, which is pressed
through shamoy  leather;  the gold is easily sepa-
rated from this amalgam, by exposure to  a proper
degree of heat, which evaporates the quicksilver,
and leaves the  gold.  This evaporation should be
made with luted  vessels.
  This is the foundation of all the operations by
which gold is obtained from the rich mines of Peru,
in Spanish America.
  Another method.—Take a quantity of the  gold
sand and heat it red  hot, quench it in water; repeat
this two or three  times, and the colour of tl.j sand
will become a reddish brown.  Then mix it with
twice its weight oflithurge, and revive the litharge
into lead, by adding a small portion  of charcoal-
dust, and  exposing it to a proper degree of heat;
       B
when the lead revives, it separates the gold from
the sand; and the freeing of the gold from the lead
must be afterwards performed by cupellation.
  Another.—Bergmann assayed metallic ores con-
taining gold, by mixing two parts of the ore well
pounded and washed, with 1 and a \  of  litharge,
and 3 of glasj; covering the whole with  common
salt, and melting it in a smith's forge, in a covered
crucible; he then  opened the crucible, put a nail
into it, and continued to do so till the iron was no
longer attacked.  The lead was  thus  precipitated
which contained the gold, and was afterwards sepa-
rated  by cupellatiun.
 Humid assay of gold mixed -with martial pyrites.
  Dissolve the ore in  12 times its weight  of dilute
nitrous acid, gradually added; place it in  a proper
degree of heat; this takes up the soluble parts, and
leaves the gold untouched, with the insoluble ma-
trix, from which it may be separated by aqua regia.
The gold may be again separated from the aqua
regia  by pouring ether upon it; the ether  takes up
the gold, and by heing burnt off leaves it in its me-
tallic  state.  The solution may contain iron, cop-
per, manganese, calcareous earth, or argil; if it be
evaporated to dryness, and the residuum heated to
redness for half an hour, volatile alkali will extract
the copper; dephlogisticated nitrous acid the earths;
the acetous  acid the  manganese; and  the marine
acid the calx of iron.   The sulphur  floats on the
first solution, from which it should be separated by
filtration.
    ALLOYS OR COMPOUND  METALS.

  Metals, in general, will unite with each other by
fusion or amalgamation, and  acquire new proper-
ties.  Brass is a compound of copper and zinc; and
possesses a different colour to either of the com-
ponent parts.
  The attraction of cohesion of the different me-
tals which are to form the compound must be over-
come; accordingly, they become intimately mixed
together.   The compound is not formed by a che-
mical union of the particles of the different metals,
but from  an equable diffusion throughout  each
other, in  mass.   As metals fuse in different de-
grees of heat, care should be taken not to add those
metals which fuse  easily,  to others which requ'.re
a greater degree of heat, while  they are too hot;
because the former may evaporate and leave the
compound imperfect.   Or, if they are" brought intc
fusion together, it should be under a flux to prevent
the volatile metals from  evaporating, before the
union is effected.
             Or molu—Mosaic gold.
  Melt together equal parts of copper and zinc,
at the loivest temperature that -will fuse the former j
stir them well to produce  an  intimate mixture of
the metals, ard add by degrees small quantities of
zinc;  the alloy first assumes a yellow  colour like
brass, or. adding a-little more zinc  .t becomes pur-
ple, and lastly perfectly white, which is the propel
appearance of the desired product, when  fused.
The quantity of zinc to be used altogether, should
be from fifty-two to  fifty-five parts out of a hun-
dred.
                Queen's metal.
  Melt  together 4$ lb. of tin, h  lb. of bismuth, \
lb. of antimony,  and £ lb. of lead.   A  very excel-
lent alloy  will be  formed by using these propor-
tions; it is used for making tea-pots and other ves-
sels which are required to imitate silver.  They
retain their brilliancy to the last.
  Another.—A very  fine  silver-looking metal is
composed  of 100 pounds of tin, 8 of regulus of an-
timony, 1 of oismutli, and 4 of copper. 
10
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
                    Tcmbac.
  Melt together 16 pounds of copper, 1 pound of
tin, and 1 pound of zinc.
                  Red tombac.
  Put into a crucible  5 J pounds of copper: when
fused, add \ pound of zinc: these metals will com-
bine, forming an alloy of a reddish colour, but pos-
sessing more lustre than copper, and also greater
durability.
                  IVJdte tombac.
  When copper is combined with arsenic, by melt-
ing them together in a close crucible, and covering
the surface with muriate of soda, to prevent oxi-
dation, a white brittle alloy is formed.
                Common peviter.
  Melt in a  crucible 7 pounds of tin, and when
fused throw in 1 pound  of" lead, 6 ounces  of cop-
per, and  2 ounces  of zinc.  This combination of
metals will form  an  alloy of great durability and
tenacity; also of considerable  lustre.
                  Best pewter.
  The best sort of pewter consists of 100 parts of
tin, and 17 of regulus of antimony.
                 Hard penvter.
  Melt together 12 pounds of tin, 1 p'  md of regu-
lus of antimony, and 4 ounces of copper.
               Flute-key valves.
  Fuse in a crucible 4 ounces of lead and 2 ounces
of antimony, and cast into a bar.   This alloy  is of
considerable hardness and lustre, and  is  used by
flute manufacturers, (when turned into  small but-
tons in a lathe,) for making valves to stop the key-
holes of flutes.
                 Common solder.
  Put into a crucible 2  pounds of lead, and when
melted, throw in 1 pound of tin.  This alloy is that
generally  known  by the name of  solder.  When
Seated  by a hoi iron,- and applied to tinned iron
»ith powdered rosin, it  acts as a cement or solder;
t is also  used to join leaden pipes, kc.
                  Hard solder.
  Melt together 2 pounds of copper, and  I pound
of tin.
                  Soft  solder.
  Melt together 2 pounds of tin, and 1 of lead.
                Printers' types.
  Put into a crucible 10 pounds of lead, and when
it is in  a state of fusion,  throw in 2 pounds of anti-
mony;  these metals, in such proportions, form the
alloy of which common  printing types are made.
The antimony gives a hardness to  the  lead, with-
out which the type would  speedily be rendered
useless in a printing press.   Different proportions
of lead,  copper,  brass,  and antimony, frequently
constitute this metal.   Every artist has  his own
proportions, so that the same composition cannot
be  obtained from different foundries; each boasts
of the superiority of his own mixture.
          Small types and stereotype plates.
   Melt 9 pounds of lead, and throw into the cru-
cible 2 pound« of antimony  and  1  pound of bis-
muth:  these metals will combine, forming an alloy
of  a peculiar  quality.   This quality is expansion
as i* cools, it is therefore well suited for the forma-
tion of  small  printing  types (particularly when
many  are east together to form stereotype plates,)
as the  whole of the mould is accurately filled with
the alloy; consequently  there can be no blemish in
the letters. If a metal or alloy liable to contract in
cooling were to be used, the effect of course would
be very different.
   Another.—The proprietors ofdifferent foundries
adopt different compositions for stereotype plates.
Some  term an  alloy of  8 parts of lead, 2 parts of
  ntimony, and l-8th part of tin.
                Mode of casting.
   for the manufacture of stereotype plates, plaster
of Paris, of the consistence of a batter-pudding be-
fore, baking, is poured over the letter-press page,
and worked into the interstices of the types with a
brush.  It is then collected  from the sides  by a
slip of iron or wood, so as to lie smooth and  com-
pact.  In about two minutes,  the whole mass  is
hardened into a  solid cake.  This cake, which  is
to serve as the matrix of the stereotype plate,  is
now put upon a rack in an  oven, where it under-
goes great heat, so as to drive off superfluous mois-
ture.  When ready for use, these moulds, accord-
ing to their size, are placed in flat oast-iron pots, and
are covered over by another piece of cast-iron per-
forated at each end, to admit the metallic compo-
sition intended for the preparation of the stereotype
plates.  The flat cast-iron pots are now fastened
in a crane, which carries them  steadily to the me-
tallic-bath, or melting pot, where they are immers-
ed and kept for a consideraole  time, until  all the
pores and  crevices of the mould are completely
and accurately filled.   When this has taken place,
the pots  are elevated  from the bath by working
the crane, and are placed  over  a water  trough, to
cool gradually.  When cold, the whole is turned
out of the pots, and the plaster  being separated, by
hammering and washing, the plates  are ready for
use; having received the  most exact and perfect
impression.
    Metallic casts from engravings on copper.
  A mostimportant discovery has lately been made,
which promises to be of considerable utility in the
fine arts: some very beautiful specimens of metal-
lic plates, of a peculiar composition, have lately
appeared under the name of " cast engravings."
This  invention  consists in taking  moulds  from
every kind of engraving, whether lioe, mezzotinto,
or aquatinta, and in pouring on this mould an  alloy
in a state of fusion, capable of taking the finest im-
pression.   The obvious utility of this invention, as
applicable to engravings which meet with a ready
sale,  and of which great numbers are required,
will be incalculable; as it will  wholly prevent the
expense of retouching, which forms  so  prominent
a charge  in all  works of an extended  sale.   No
sooner is one cast -worn out, than another may im-
mediately be procured from the original plate, so
that every impression will be a proof.  Thus the
works of our most celebrated artists  may be hand-
ed down,  ad infinitum, for the improvement and
delight of future ages, and will afford at the  same
time the  greatest satisfaction to every lover of the
fine arts.
                  White metal.
  Melt together 10 ounces of lead, 6  ounces of bis-
muth, and 4 drachms of regulus of antiir.ony.
  Another.—Melt together 2 pounds of regulus of
antimony, 8 ounces of brass, and 10 ounces of tin.
            Common hard-white metal.
  Melt together I pound of brass, 1^  ounce of spel-
ter, and £ an ounce of tin.
                   Tutenag.
  Melt together 2 parts of tin,  and 1 of bismuth.
                  Fusible alloy.
  Put into a  crucible 4 ounces  of  bismuth, and
when in a state of fusion, throw  in  2£  ounces of
lead,  and, 1£ ounce of tin; these  metal- will  com-
bine,  forming an alloy fusible at the temperature
of boiling water; the "iiscovery of which is ascribed
to Sir Isaac Newton.  Mould  this alloy in  bars,
and take them to a silversmith's  to be made  into
half a dozen tea-spoons.  If one of these be given
to a stranger to stir his tea, as soon as it is poured
from  Ue tea-pot, he will be not a little surprised
to find the spoon melt in the tea-cup.
  The fusibility of this alloy is certainly surprising,
far the fusing temperature of each  of its compo-
nents, singly, is higher than twice that of boiling 
METALLURGY.
H
 water.  Bismuth fuses at 476°, lead at 612°, and tin
 at 442°; whilst water boils at 212°.
   Another.—Melt together 1 ounce of zinc, 1 ounce
 of bismuth, and 1 ounce of lead;  this alloy will be
 found to be remarkably fusible (although each of
 the metals,  separately, requires considerable  heat
 to melt it,) and will melt even in hot water: It will
 likewise remain in a fused state on a sheet of paper,
 over the flame <jf a  lamp or candle.
   Metallographical application of fusible alloys.
   Paste a piece of white paper at the  bottom of a
 china saucer,  and lrt it dry:  then write on it with
 common writing ink, and  sprinkle some finely-
 powdered gum arabic over the writing, which will
 produce a slight relief.   When well dried, brush
 off the powder that does not adhere, and pour fusi-
 ble metal  into the  saucer, taking care to cool it
 rapidly, that  crystallization  may not  take place.
 In this  way a  counterpart of the writing will be ob-
 tained,  impressed on  the metal. By immersing
 the cast in slightly  warm water, any  adhering gum
 may be removed, and then, if examined by a glass,
 the writing may easily be read and seen to be per-
 fect.  Afterwards, by using common printer's ink,
 impressions may be taken from it, all of which will
 be true facsimiles  of the first writing.
   The difficulties in this new application of the fu-
 sible  alloy are, to avoid unequal thickness in the
 plate of metal, which causes it  to  alter in form,
 and break under pressure; and to prevent the sur-
 face from crystallizing, when the ink  will adhere
 svnere it is not required.
            Casts from fusible metal.
   A combination of three parts of lead, with 2 of
 tin and  5 of bismuth, forms an alloy which melts at
 the temperature of 197° F.
   In making casts with this  and  similar alloys, it
 is important to use  the metal at  a temperature as
 low as possible; as, if but a few degrees elevated,
 the water which adheres to the things  from which
 casts are to be taken, forms  vapour, and produces
 bubbles.  The fused metal must be allowed to cool
 in a lea-cup until just ready to  set  at the edges,
 and ihen pour it into the moulds, procuring in this
 way beautiful  casts from  moulds of wood, or of
 other similar substances.   When taking impres-
 sions  from gems, seals, &c. the fused alloy should
 be placed  on paper or  paste-board, and  stirred
 about till it becomes pasty, from cooling, at whic'j
 moment the gem, die,  or seal, should be suddenly
 stamped on it, and a very sharp impression  will
 .hen be obtained.  Journal of Science, No. 26.
               Metallic injection.
   Melt together equal  parts of bismuth, lead, and
 '.in, with a sufficient quantity of quicksilver.
   This composition, with the addition of a small
 proportion of mercury,  is used for  injecting the
 vessels of many anatomical preparations;  also for
 taking correct casts of various cavities of the body,
 as those of the ear.   The animal structure  may be
 corroded and  separated by means of a solution of
 potass in water; and the metallic  cast will be pre-
 served in an isolated state.
      For cusldons of electrical machinery.
  Melt  together in a  crucible 2 drachms  of zinc
 and 1  of tin; when  fused, pour them into  a  cold
 crucible, containing 5 drachms of mercury.  The
 mercury will combine with those metals, and form
 an alloy, (or  amalgam, as it is  called,) fit to be
 rubbed on the'cushions  which press the plate, or
 cylinder of an electrical machine.   Before  the
 amalgam is applied, it is proper to rub the cushion
 with a mixture of tallow and  bees-wax.
            For varnisldng figures.
  Fuse \ an ounce of tin, with  the  same quantity
of bismuth in  a crucible: when melted, add A an
ounce of mercury.  When  perfectly  combined,
J take the mixture from the fire, and cool it.   This
 substance mixed with the white of an egg, forms a
 very beautiful varnish, for plaster figure's, &c.
             To plate looking-glasses.
   This art is erroneously termed silvering,  for, as
 will be presently seen, there is not  a particle of
 silver present in the whole composition.
   On tin-foil, fitly disposed  on  a flat table, mercu-
 ry is to be poured, and gently rubbed withahare's
 foot:  it soon unites itself with  the tin, which then
 becomes very splendid, or, as the workmen  say, is
 (pdckencd.  A plate of glass is then cautiously to
 be slid  upcn the tin-leaf, in such a manner as to
 sweep oft" the redundant mercury,  vhich is not in-
 corporated with the tin; leaden weights are then
 to be placed on the glass, and in a little time the
 quicksilvered tin-foil adheres so firmly to the glass,
 that the - weights  may be  removed" without  any
 danger  of its falling off.  The glass thus coated is
 a common looking-glass.  About 2 ounces of mer-
 cury are sufficient  for covering three square feet of
 glass.
   The success of this  operation depends much on
 the clearness of the glass; and the least dirt or dust
 on  its  surface will  prevent the  adhesion of the
 amalgam or alloy.
       Liquid foil for silvering glass globes.
   Melt together 1  ounce of clean lead, and 1 ounce
 of fine tin, in a clean iron ladle; then immediately
 add 1 ounce of bismuth.   Skim off the dross, re-
 move the ladle from the fire,  and  before it sets,
 add 10 ounces of quicksilver.  Now stir the  whole
 carefully together, taking care not to breathe over
 it, as the fumes of the mercury are very pernicious
 Pour this through an earthen  pipe  into the glass
 globe, which turn  repeatedly round.
   Another.—To 4 ounces of quicksilver, add as
 much tin-foil as will  become  barely fluid  when
 mix^d.   Let the globe be clean and warm, and in-
 ject the quicksilver by  means of  a pipe at the
 aperture, turning  it about  till it is silvered  all
 over.  Let  the remainder run out, and hang the
 globe up.
   Another.—For this pui-pose,  1  part of mercury
 and 4 of tin have bven used; but if 2 parts of mer-
 cury, 1  of tin, 1 of  lead, and  1 of bismuth, are melt-
 ed together, the compound  which they form will
 answer  the purpose better:  either of them must be
 made in an iron ladle, over a clear 5re, and must
 bt frequently stirred.
                   Bath metal.
   Melt together 1  pound of brass, and 4£ ounces
 of spelter.
                     Brass.
   Put 4J lbs. of copper into a crucible, expose it
 to heat in a furnace, and when perfectly fused, add
 1^ lb. of zinc.  The metals will combine, forming
 that generally used alloy, called brass.
   Another.—For brass which  is to be  cast into
 plates, from which pans and kettles are to be  made,
 and wire is to be drawn, braziers  use calamine of
 the finest sort, instead of pure zinc, and in a great-
 er proportion than when  common brass is made;
 generally 56 lb. of calamine to 34 lb. of copper.
 Old brass,  which has been frequently.exposed to
 the action of fire, when mixed with the copper and
 calamine, renders the brass  far more ductile, and.
 fitter for the making of fine wire, than it would  be
 without it; but the  Oerman brass,  particilarly that
 of Nuremberg, is,  when  drawn into wire, said  to
 be preferable  to any made  in  England,  for the
 strings of musital instruments.
                   Pinchbeck.
   Put into  a  crucible 5  ounces of pure copper;
 when it is in a state effusion, add 1 ounce of zinc.
 These metals combine, forming an  alloy not un-
 like jeweller's gold: pour it into a mould of any 
12
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 shape.   This  alloy is used  for  inferior jewel-
 lery.
   Some use onlv half this quantity of zinc, in which
 proportion the alloy is more easily worked espe-
 cially in the making of jewellery.
   Another.—Melt together 1 ounce of brass with
 1A or 2 ounces  of  copper, fused under a coat of
 charcoal dust.
                 Prince's metal.
   Melt together 3 ounces of copper, and 1 ounce
 of zinc: or 8 ounces of brass, and 1  ounce of zinc.
   Another.—Melt  in a crucible  4  ounces of cop-
 per, and when fused, add  2  ounces of zinc; they
 will combine and form a very beautiful and useful
 alloy, called Prince Rupert's metal.
                    Bronze.
   Melt in a clean crucible 7 lbs. of pure copper:
 when  fused, throw into it 3 lbs. of zinc, and 2 lbs.
 of tin. These metals will combine, forming bronze,
 which, from the exactness of the impression which
 it takes from a mould, has, in ancient and modern
 times, been generally used in  the formation of
 busts, medals, and  statues.
              Specula of telescopes.
   Melt 7  lbs. of copper, and when fused, add 3 lbs.
 of zinc, and 4 lbs. of tin.  These metals will com-
 bine to form a beautiful alloy  of great lustre,  and
 of a light yellow colour,  fitted to be made into
 specula for telescopes.   Mr Mudge used only cop-
 per and grain tin, in the proportion of 2 lbs. to 14^
 ounces.
                   Gun metal.
   Melt together 112 lbs. of Bristol brass, 14 lbs.
 of spelter, and 7 lbs. of block tin.
   Another.—Melt together 9 parts of copper and
 1 part  v,f tin: the above compounds are  those used
 in the  manufacture  of small and great brass guns,
 swivels, &c.
   The pieces of ordnance used by the besiegers at
the battle  of Prague, were  actually  melted  by the
frequency  of the firing; the  mixture  of which they
were made contained a large portion  of lead; it
would  have been less prone  to  melt, and  conse-
quently preferable,  had it contained none.  A mix-
ture of copper and tin is preferred to pure copper,
not only for the casting of  cannon,  but of statues,
&c.; for pure  copper,  in running through  the
various parts of the  mould,  would lose so much of
its heat as to set, or  become solid too soon.
                   Bell metal.
   Melt together 6 parts of copper, and 2 of tin:
These  proportions are the most approved for bells
throughout Europe, and in  China.
   In the union of the two metals above mentioned,
the combination is  so complete, that the specific
gravity of the alloy is greater than that of the two
metals uncombined.
  A'iotner.—Some  bells are made in the propor-
tion of 10 parts of copper to 2 of tin.  It may be in
general observed, that a less  proportion of tin is
used for making church bells, than clock bells; and
that a little zinc is added for the bells of repeating
watches and other small bells.
               Blanched copper.
  Melt together 8 ounces of copper, and ^ an ounce
of neutral arsenical salt, fused together, undera flux
composed  of calcined borax, charco:d  dust,  and
fine powder glass.
         Composition of ancient statues.
  According to Pliny, the metal used by the Ro-
mans for thJr statues, and for the plates on which
they engraved inscriptions, was composed in the
following manner.  They first melted  a quantity
of copper, into which they put a third of its weight
of old copper, which had been long in use; to every
100 lbs. weight of this mixture they added 12£ lbs.
of an alloy composed of equal parti5 of lead and tin.
                  Mock platina.
    Melt together 8 ounces of brass and 5 ounces of
  spelter.
             Fine casting of brass, &c.
    The principal object in fine casting is to have a
  mould that shall receive a beautiful impression,
  and at the same time sufficiently adhesive  to resist
  the force of the fluid metal, that shall neither wash,
  nor be injured by the heat.  The sand that covers
  or surrounds the model should be fine close sand;
  after removing the mould, the model must be faced
  with burnt rotten  stone, and  covered with  loam,
  each dusted through  a bag, and the mould  laid
  down upon it—this facing  may  be repeated, the
  mould must be dried and  smoked with a  torch, in
  lieu of water, the  sand is moistened with a solu-
  tion of tartar, or the lees of wine, or with cream of
  tartar.   Care must be  taken  to  loosen the bands
  quickly: viz. loosen the first mould, while the se-
  cond is pouring, &c. On removing the work, every
  particle of the facing  should be carefully  scraped
  from the mould and thrown away. Part the moulds
  with coal and black rosin.
                  Gilding metal.
   Melt together 4  parts of copper, 1 of Bristol old
 brass, and 14 oz. of" tin, to every pound of copper.
             For common jewellery.
   Melt together 3 parts of copper, 1 of Bristol
 old brass, and 4 oz.  of tin, to every  pound of copper.
   If this alloy is for fine polishing, the tin may be
 omitted, and a mixture of lead and  antimony sub-
 stituted.  Paler polishing metal is made by reduc-
 ing the copper to two or to one part.
              Yellow dipping metal.
   Melt together 2 parts of Cheadle brass, 1 part of
 copper, with a little Bristol old brass, and £ oz. of
 tin to every pound of copper.
   This alloy is almost oi the colour, &c.  of gold
 coin.  Cheadle brass is the darkest, and gives  the
 metal a greenish hue.  Old  Bristol brass is pale
 and yellow.
   Another.—Good dipping metal may be made ol
 1 pound of copper to 5  oz. of spelter; the copper
 should be tough cake, and not  tile.
   When antimony is u>ed instead of tin, it should
 be in smaller quantity, or the metal will be brittle. •
               Imitation of silver.
   When copper is  melted with tin, about # oz. of
 tin to a pound of  copper, will make a pale bell-
 metal, they will roll and ring very near to sterling
 silver.
          Tutania or Britannia metal.
   Melt together 4 oz. of plate brass, and 4 oz. tin.
 When in fusion, add 4 oz. bismuth, and 4 oz. re-
 gulus of antimony.
   This is the hardening, which is to be added at
 discretion to melted tin, until it has the requisite
 colour and hardness.
   Another.—Melt together 2 lbs. of plate brass, 2
 lbs. of a mixture of copper and arsenic, either  by
 cementing  or melting, 2 Us. of tin,  2 lbs.  of bis-
 muth, and 2 lbs. regulus of antimony.
   This is to be added at discretion,'to melted tin.
  Anotfier.—Melt together 1 lb. of copper, 1 lb.
tin, and 2 lbs. regulus of antimony, with or with-
out a little bismuth.
  Another.—Melt together 8 oz.  Shruff brass; 2
lbs. regulus of antimony, and 10 lbs. tin.
  This is fit for use as Britannia metal.
              German tutania.
  Melt together 2 drachms of copper, 1 oz. of re-
gulus of antimony, and 12 oz. of tin.
               Spanish tutania.
  To 8 oz. of scrap  iron or steel, at a white heat,
add 1 lb. of antimony in small portions, with 3 or.
of nitre.  Melt and harden 1 lb. ol tin with 2 o-j.
of this compound. 
METALLURGY.
13
  Another.—Melt together 4 oz.  of antimony,  1 I
oz. arsenic, and  2 lbs. tin.   This  compound is |
ready for use.  The first of these Spanish alloys
would be a beautiful metal, if arsenic were added.
              Engestroom tutania.
  Melt together 4 parts copper, 8 parts regulus of
antimony, and 1 part binrmth.
  When added to 100 parts of tin, this compound
will be ready for  use.
          Kustitien's metal for tinning.
  To 1 lb. of malleable iron,  at a  white heat,  add
5 oz. regulus of antimony, and 24 ibs. of the purest
Molucca tin.
  This alloy polishes without the hlue tint, and is
free from lead or arsenic.
              Solder for steel joints.
  Take of fine silver, 19 pennyweights, copper, 1
do. and  brass, 2  do.   Melt these under a coat of
charcoal dust.
  This solder possesses several advantages over the
usual spelter solder, or brass, wnen employed in
soldering; cast  steel, &w. as it fuses with less heat,
and its  whiteness has  a  better appearance  than
brass.
             Brass solder for iron.
  Thin plates of  brass are to he melted between
the pieces that are to be joined.   If the work be
very fine, as when two leaves of a broken saw are
to be brazed together,  cover it with pulverized bo-
rax, melted with  water;  that it may incorporate
with the brass powder which is added to  it : the
piece must  be then exposed  to the fire  without
touching the coals, and heated till the brass is seen
to run.
            Silver solder for jetuellers.
   Melt  together  19 pennyweights of fine silver;
copper,  1 pennyweight;  and brass,  10  penny-
weights.
            Silvei' solder for plating.
   Melt together 10 pennyweights  of brass, and I
oz. of pure  silver.
                   Gold solder.
   Melt together  of pure gold, 12 pennyweights ;
pure silver, 2 pennyweights ; and copper, 4 penny-
weights.
        Useful alloy of gold with platinum.
   Put into a clean crucible 7 drachms and a half of
pure gold,  and when  perfectly melted,  throw in
half a drachm of platinum.  The two metals  will
combine intimately, forming an alloy rather whiter
than pure gold, but remarkably ductile and elastic;
it is also less perishable than pure gold or jewel-
lers' gold ; but  more  readily fusible  than  that
metal.
   These excellent qualities must render this alloy
an object of great interest to workers in metals.
For springs, where steel cannot be used, it  will
prove exceedingly advantageous.
   It is a curious circumstance, that the alloy of gold
and platinum  is soluble in nitr'.c acid, which does
not act on either of the metals, in  a separate state.
It is remarkable, too, that the alloy has very nearly
the colour  of platinum, even when composed  of
eleven parts of gold to one of the former metal.
                   Ring gold.
   Melt together of Spanish copper, 6 pennyweights
and 12 grains ; fine silver, 3 pennyweights and 16
grains, to one ounce five pennyweights of gold coin.
This is worth about 3/. per ounce.
         Gold from 35s. to 40s. per ounce.
   Melt together  8 ounces 8 pennyweights of Spa-
nish copper, 10 pennyweights of fine silver, to one
ounce of gold coin.
            Manheim-gold, or similor.
   Melt together  3 ounces and a half of copper, one
ounce artd  a half of brass, and 15 grains of pure
             Preparation of foils.
  Foils are thin plates or leaves of metal that are
put under  stones, or compositions in imitation of
stories, when they are set.
  The intention of foils is either to increase the
lustre or play of the stones, or more generally to
improve the colour, by giving an additional force
to the tinge, whether it he natural or artificial, by
thr.t of a ground of  the same  hue, which the foil is
in this case made to be.
  There .are consequently two kinds of foils ;  the
one is colourless, where the effect of giving lustre
or play to the stone is produced by the polish of
the surface, which makes it act as a mirror, and, by
reflecting the light,  prevents  tha' deadness which
attends the having a duller ground under the stone,
and brings itv by the double refraction of  the light
that is caused, nearer to the effect of the diamond.
The other  is coloured with some pigment or stain
of the same hue as the stone, or of  some other
which  is intended tn modify and change the hue of
the stone in some degree ; as, where a yellow  foil
may be put under green, which is too much incli-
ning to the blue, or under crimson,  where it is de-
sired to have the appearance  more orange or scar-
let.
  Foils may he made  of copper or tin ; and silvet
has been sometimes used, with which  it  has been
advised, for some purposes, to mix gold ;  but the
expense of either is needless, as copper may be
made to answer the same end.
           To prepare copper for foils.
  Where coloured  foils are wanted, copper may
therefore be best used, and may be prepared for the
purpose, by the following means.
  Take copper plates beaten to a proper thickness,
and pass thein betwixt a pair  of fine steel  rollers
very clpse set, and  draw them as thin a?  is possi-
ble to retain a proper tenacity.   Polish them  with
very fine whiting, or rotten stone, till  they shine,
and have as much brightness  as can be given them,
and they will then be  fit to receive the colour.
                To whiten foils.
  Where the yellow, or rather orange-colour of
the ground would  be injurious to the  effect, as in
the case of purples, or crimson red, the foils should
be whitened, which may be done in the  following
manner.
  Take a small quantity of silver, and dissolve  it in
aquafortis, and then put bits of copper into the so-
lution, and precipitate the  silver; which being
done the fluid must be poured off, and  fresh water
added to it, to wash away all  the remainder of the
first fluid ; after which the silver must  be dried, an
equal  weight of cream of taitar and common salt
must then  be ground with it, till the whole be re-
duced to a very fine powder  ; and  with  this mix-
ture,  the foils, being first  slightly moistened, must
be rubbed by the finger, or a bit of linen rag, till
they be of the degree of whiteness desired;  after
which, if it appear to be wanted, the polish must be
refreshed.
  The tin  foils are only used  in the case of colour-
less stones, where  quicksilver is employed ;  and
they  may  be drawn out by  the same  rollers, but
need not be further polished, so that effect is pro-
duced by other means in this case.
Foils for crystals, pebbles, or paste, to give  the lus-
            tre and play of diamonds.
  The manner of preparing foils, so as to give co-
lourless stones the greatest degree of play and lus-
tre, is by raising so high a polish or smoothness on
the surface, as to give them the effect of  a  mirror,
which can only  be  done,  in  a perfect  manner, by
the use of quicksilver, applied in the same  genera)
way as in the case of  looking-glass. The  method
by  which it may he best performed is as  follows. 
14
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
I   Yellow.—Where a full  yellow is  desired, Hie
 foil may be coloured with yellow lacquer, laid on
 as for other purposes; and for  the  slighter colour
 of topazes the burnish and foil  itself will be  suffi-
 ciently strong without any addition.
   Green.—For green, where a deep hue is required,
 the crystals of verdigrise, tempered  in shell-lao
 varnish, should be used, but where the emerald is
 to be imitated, a little yellow lacquer should be
 added, to bring the colour to a truer  green, and
 less verging to the blue.
   Other colours.—The stones of more diluted co-
 lour, such as the amethyst, topaz,  vinegar-garnet,
 and eagle-marine, may be very cheaply imitated bj
 transparent white glass or paste, even without foils
 This is to be done by  tempering the colours above
 enumerated with turpentine and mastic, and paint-
 ing the socket in which the counterfeit stone  is to
 be set with the mixture, the socket and stone itself
 being previously heated.  In this  case,  however,
 the stone should be immediately set, and the socket
 closed upon it before the mixture cools and grows
 hard.   The orange lake above-mentioned was in-
 vented for this purpose, in which it has a beautiful
 effect, and was used with  great success by a  con-
 siderable manufacturer.  The colour  it  produces
 is that of the  vmegar-garnet, which it affords with
 great brightness.   The colours before directed to
 be used in oil should be extremely well ground in
 oil of turpentine,  and tempered with old nut or
 poppy oil; or, if time  can be given for the drying,
 with "strong fat oil; diluted with spirit of turpen-
 tine, which will gain a fine polish of itself.
   The colours used in varnish should  be likewise
 thoroughly  well ground and mixt; ai i, in the case
 of the dragon's blood in the seed-lac varnish and
 the lacquer, the foils should be warmed before they
 are laid out.   All the mixtures  should be laid on
 the  foils with a broad soft brush,  which must be
 passed from  one  end to  the other, and  no part
 should be crossed,  or twice gone over, or, at least,
 not till the first coat can be  dry; when, if the co-
 lour do not lie strong enough, a second coat may
 be given.                                .
   Take leaves of tin, prepared in the same manner
 as for silvering looking-glasses, and cut them into
 small pieces of such size as to cover the surface of
 the sockets or the stones that are to be set.   <ay
 three of these then, one upon another, and having
 moistened the inside  of the socket with thin gum-
 wpter, and suffered it to become again so dry, that
 only  a slight  stickiness remains,  put the three
 pieces of leaves,  lying on each other, into it, and
 adapt them to the surface in as even a manner as
 possible.   When this is done, heat  the socket, and
 fill it with warm quicksilver, which must be  suf-
 fered to continue in it three  or four minutes, and
 then gently poured out.   The stone must then be
 thrust into the socket, and closed with it, care
 having been taken to give such room for it that  it
 may enter without stripping off the tin and quick-
 silver from any part  of the  furnace.  The work
 should be well closed round the stone, to prevent
 the tin and quicksilver contained in the socket from
 being shaken out by any violence.
  The lustre Of stcnes set in this manner will con-
 tinue longer than when they are set  iu the coinm»n
 way, as the cavity round  them  being filled, there
 will be no passage found for moisture, which is so
 injurious to the wear of stones treated in any other
 way.
  This kind of foil likewise gives  same lustre to
 glass  or other transparent matter, which has little
 of itself; but to stones or  pastes, that have some
 share of play, it gives a most beautiful brilliance.
                 To colour foils.
  Two methods have  been invented  for colouring
foils:  the one by tinging the surface of the copper
of the colour  required  by  means  of smoke, the
other by staining or painting it with some pigment
or other colouring substance.
   The colours used for painting foils may be tem-
pered with either oil, water  rendered duly viscid
by gum arahic, size, or varnish.   Where deep co-
lours  are wanted, oil is most proper, because some
pigments become wholly transparent iu it, as lake,
or Prussian blue; but yellow and  green  may be
better laid on iii'varnish, as these colours may be
 had in perfection from a tinge wholly dissolved in
 spirit of  wine, in the  same manner as in the case
 of lacquers; and the most beautiful  green is to be
 produced  by distilled verdigrise, whieh  is apt to
 lose its colour  and turn black with oil.   In com-
 mon  cases, however, any of the colours may be,
 with least trouble, laid on  with isinglass  size, in
 the same  manner as  the glazing colours used in
 miniature painting.
                 Ruby colours.
  For red, where the ruby is to be imitated., car-
 mine, a little lake used in isinglass  size,  or shell-
 lac varnish, is to be employed, if the glass or paste
 be of a full crimson,  verging towards  the purple;
 but if the glass in. line to the  scarlet, or orange,
 very bright lake (that is, not purple) may be  used
 alone in oil.
   Garnet red.—For the garnet red,  dragon's blood
 dissolved  in seed-lac varnish may be used; and for
 the vinegar garnet, the orange lake,  tempered with
 shell-lac varnish, will be found excellent.
  Amethyst.—For the amethyst, lake, with a little
 Prussian blu<», used with oil, and very thinly spread
 on the foil, will completely answer the end.
  Blue.—For  blue, where a deep  colour, or the
 effect of  the  sapphire is wanted, Prussian blue,
 that is -iot too deep, should be  used in oil, and  it
 should be spread more or less thinly on the foil,
 according to the lightness or deepness of which the
 colour is required to be.
   Eagle marine.—:For the eagle marine, common
 verdigrise, with a little Prussian blue, tempered in
 shdl-lac varnish, may be used.
  GILDING, SILVERING, AND TINNING.

          To gild glass and porcelain.
  Drinking, and other glasses are sometimes gilt
on their edges.   This is done, either by an adhe-
sive varnish, or by heat.  The varnish is prepared
by dissolving in boiled linseed oil an equal weight
either of copal or amber.  This is to be diluted by
a proper quantity of oil of turpentine, so as to be
applied as thin as possible to the parts of the glass
intended to be gilt.  When this  is  done, which.
will be in about 24 hours, the glass is to be placed
in a stove, till it is so warm as almost  to burn the
fingers when handled.  At  this temperature, the
varnish will become adhesive,  and a piece of leaf-
gold, applied in the usual way, will  immediately
stick.  Sweep off the superfluous  portions of the
leaf; and when quite cold,  it  may be burnished,
taking care to interpose a  piece of wry thin paper
 Indian paper) between the gold and the burnisher.
 f the varni-sh is very good, this is the best method
of gilding glass, as the gold is thus fixed on more
evenly, than in  any other way.
  Another method.—It often happens,  when  the
varnish is but indifferent, that by repeated washing
the gald wears off: on this account tne practice ot
burning it in, is sometimes had recourse to.
  For this  purpose, some gold  powder is  ground
with borax, and in this state applied to the clean
surface of the glass, by a camel's hair pencil; when
quite dry, the glass is  put into a stove heated \c 
METALLURGY.
15
about the temperature of an annealing o.ven; the
gum burns off, and  the  borax, by vitrifying, ce-
ments the gold with great firmness to the glass;
after which it may be burnished. The gilding upon
porcelain is in l"ke manner fixed by heat and the
use of borax;  and this kind of ware being neither
transparent nor liable to  soften, and thus to  be in-
jured in its form in a low-red  heat, is free from
the risk and injury which the finer  and more fusi-
ble kinds of glass are apt to sustain from such treat-
ment. Porcelain and other wares may be platinized,
silvered, tinned, and bronzed, in a similar manner.
                To gild leather.
  In  order  to impress  gilt  figures, letters, and
other marks upon leather, as on the covers of books,
edgings  for doors, &c. the leather must first be
dusted over with very finely powdered yellow resin,
or  mastich  gum.   The  iron tools or stamps are
now arranged on a rack before a clear fire, so as to i
be  well heated, without  becoming red hot.  If the
tools are letters,  they  have an alphabetical ar-
rangement on the rack.   Each letter or stamp must I
be  tried  as to its heat, by imprinting its mark on I
the raw side of a piece of  waste leather.  A little
practice  will enable the  workman to judge  of the
heat.  The tool is now  to be pressed downwards
on  the gold leaf; whicii will of course be indented,
and show the figure imprinted op it.  The  next
letter or stamp is now to be  taken  and stamped in
like  manner,  and  so  on with the others;  taking
care to keep the letters  in an even line with each
other, like those in a book. By this operation, the
resin is melted; consequently the gold adheres to
the leather; the superfluous gold may then be rub-
bed off by a cloth, the gilded impressions remain-
ing on the leather.  In this,  as in every other ope-
ration, adroitness is acquired by practice.
   The cloth alluded to  should be  slightly greasy,
to retain the gold wiped off; (otherwise there will
be great waste in a few months,) the cloth will
thus be soon completely saturated  or loaded  with
the gold.  When this is the  case,  these cloths are
generally sold to the refiners,  who burn  them and
recover  the gold.   Some of these  afford so much
gold by  burning, as to be worth from a guinea to a
guinea and a half.
 1 'o gild writings, drawings, &c. on paper or parch-
                      ment.
   Letters written on vellum or paper are gilded in
three ways: in the first, a little size is mixed with
the ink, and the letters are written as usual; when
they are dry,  a slight degree of stickiness is pro-
 duced by breathing on them, upon which the gold
 leaf  is immediately applied, and by a little pres-
 sure may be made to adhere with  sufficient firm-
 ness.  In the second method,  some white-lead or
 chalk is ground up with strong size,  and the let-
 ters are  made with this by means of a brush: when
 the mixture is  almost dry,  the gold leaf may be
 laid on, and afterwards burnished.  The last me-
 thod is to mix up some gold powder with size, and
 to  form  the  letters of this by means of a brush.
 It  is supposed that this latter method was that used
 ly the monks in illuminating their missals, psal-
 ters, and rubrics.
            To gild the  edges of paper.
   The edges of the leaves of books  and letter paper
 are gilded, whilst  in a  horizontal  position in the
 bookbinder's press, by first applying a composition
 formed of four parts of Armenian bole, and one of
 candied sugar, ground  together with water to  a
 proper consistence, and  laid on by  a brush with the
 white of an e^. « This coating, when nearly dry,
 is  smoothed by the burnisher, which is generally
 a crooked piece of agate, very smooth, and  fixed
 in  a  handle.   It is then slightly  moistened by a
 sponge dipped in clean water, ind  sitncezed in the
hand.  The gold  leaf is now taken upon a piece
of cotton from  the leathern cushion, and applied
on the moistened  surface.   When dry, it is to be
burnished by rubbing the agate over it repeatedly
from end to end, taking care not to wound the sur-
face  by the  point  of the burnisher.  A piece  of
silk or India paper is usually  interposed  between
the gold and the burnisher.
  Cotton wool is generally used by bookbinders to
take the leaf up from  the cushion; befog the best
adapted for the purpose on account of its pliabili-
ty, smoothness, softness, and slight moistness.
 To gild silk, satin, ivory, &c. by hydrogen gas.
  Immerse a piece of white satin, silk, or ivory in
a solution of nitro-muriate of gold, in the propor-
tion of one part of the nitro-muriate to three  of
distilled water.  Whilst the substance to b« gilded
is still wet,  immerse it in a jar of hydrogen gas;
it will soon  be covered by a complete coat of gold.
  Another  method.—The  foregoing  experiment
may be very prettily and advantageously varied as
follows:—Paint flowers or other ornaments with a
very fine camel hair pencil, dipped in  the above
mentioned solution of gold, on pieces of silk, satin,
kc. &c. 8tc. and hold them over a Florence flask,
from which hydrogen gas is evolved,  duiing the .
decomposition  of  the wkter by sulphuric acid and
iron filings.  The painted flowers, &c. in a few
minutes, will shine with all the splendour of the
purest gold.  A coating  of this kind will not  tar-
nish on exposure to the air, or in washing.
               Oil t^ilding on  wood.
  The wood must first be covered, or primed, by
two or three coatings of  boiled linseed oil and car-
bonate of lead, in order to fill up the  pores, and
conceal the irregularities of the surface, occasion-
ed by the veins in the wood.  When the priming
is quite dry, a thin coat of gold-size must be  laid
on.  This is prepared by grinding together some
red oxide of lead  with the thickest drying oil  that
can be procured,  and the  older the better, that it
may work freely; it is to be mixed, previously to
being used, with a little oil of turpentine, till it is
brought to a proper consistence.   If the gold-size
is good, it will be sufficiently  dry hi twelve hours,
more or less, to allow the  artist to proceed to the
last part of  the process, which is the application of
 the gold.  For this purpose a leaf of gold is spread
on a cushion (formed  by a few folds of flannel se-
cured on a piece of wood, about eight inches square
by a tight covering of leather,) and is cut into strips
of a proper size by a blunt pallet knife;  each strip
being  then  taken  upon the point of a fine brush,
is applied to the part  intended to be gilded, and is
then  gently pressed down by a ball of soft cotton ,
the gold immediately adheres  to the sticky surface
of the size, and after  a few minutes, the dexterous
Epplication  of a  large camel's hair brush sweeps
away  the loose particles of the gold-leaf without
disturbing the rest.  In a day  or two  the size  will
be  completely dried,  and the  operation will  be
finished.
  The advantages of this method  of gilding  are,
that it is very simple, veiy durable, and  not readi-
ly injured by changes of weather, even  when  ex-
posed to the open air; and when soiled  it may be
^leaned  by a little warm water and a soft brush:
its chief employment is h. outdoor work.  lis dis-
advantage is, that it cannot be  burnished, and there-
fore wants the high lustre  produced by the follow-
ing method:
              To gild by burnishing.
  This, operation  ie chiefly perfor.ned on picture-
frames, mouldings, headings, and fine stucco work
The surface to be gilt must be carefully covered
 with a strong size, made by boiling down pieces of
 while leather,  or  clippings of parchment, till they 
16
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
are reduced to a stiffjelly; this coating being dried,
eight or ten  more must be applied, consisting of
the same size, mixed with fine Paris plaster or
washed chalk; when a sufficient number of layers
have been put on, varying according to the nature
of the work,  and the whole is Lecome quite dry, a
moderately thick layer must be applied, composed
of size and Armenian bole, or yellow oxide of lead:
while this last is yet  moist, the  gold leaf is to be
put on in the usual manner; it will immediately
adhere  on  being pressed by the cotton ball,  and
before the size is become perfectly dry, those parts
which are intended to be the most brilliant are to
be carefully burnished by an agate or a dog's tooth
fixed in a handle.
  In order to save the labour of burnishing, it  is a
common, but bad practice, slightly to burnish  the
brilliant parts, and to deaden the  rest by drawing
a brush  over them dipped in size; the required
contrast between the polished and the unpolished
gold is indeed thus obtained; but the general effect
is much  inferior to that produced in  the  regular
way, and the  smallest drop of water falling on  the
sized part occasions a stain.   This kind of gilding
can only be applied on in-door work; as rain,  and
even a considerable degree of dampness, will occa-
sion the gold  to peal off.  When dirty, it may be
cleaned by  a soft brush, with hot spirit of wine, or
oil of turpentine.
                   Matting.
  The parts to he burnished (in gilding on metals)
being covered with the usual  guarding, the  piece
is fastened by five iron wires to the end of an iron
rod; it is then to be highly heated until the guard-
ing becomes brown, when the gilding will be found
to have acquired a fine gold  colour.   It is now to
be covered  with a mixture of common salt, nitre,
and alum, liquefied in the water of  crystallization
the/ contain;  the piece  is to be carried again to
thf'lire, and heated until the saline coating is in a
^•'.e of fusion, and  becomes nearly transparent,
wiieu it .must be withdrawn and suddenly plunged
into cold water, which removes both coating and
guarding.  Dip it afterwards in  very weak nitric
acid, and wash it repeatedly in several  separate
tubs of water. It may be dried either by exposure
to air,  or gently wiping it  with  clean, soft,  dry
linen.
        To gild copper,  &c. by amalgam.
  Immerse a  very clean bright piece of copper in
» diluted solution of nitrate  of mercury.   By  the
affinity of copper for nitric :.cid,  the mercury will
be precipif°ted: now spread the amalgam of gold,
rather thinly, over the coat of mercury just given
to the copper. This coat unites with the amalgam,
but of course will remaiu on the copper.   Now
place the piece or pieces so operated on in a clean
oven or furnace, where there is no smoke.  If the
heat is a little greater than 660°, the mercury of
the amalgam will be volatilized, and the copper
will be beautifully gilt.
  In the  large way of gilding, the furnaces are so
contrived that the volatilized mercury is again
condensed, and preserved for further  use, so that
there is no  loss in the operation.   There is also a
contrivance by which  the volatile, particles of mer-
cury are prevented from injuring the gilders.
                 To gild steel.
  Pour some of the ethereal solution of gold into
a wine glass,  and dip  therein the blade of a new
pen-knife, lancet, or  razor; withdraw the instru-
ment, and allow the ether to evaporate.  The blade
will be found to be covered by  a  very beautiful
coat of gold.   A clean rag, or small piece  of very
dry sponge, may be dipped in the ether, and used
to moisten  the blade, with the same result.
  In this case there  is no  occasion to pour  the
liquid into a glass, which must undouotedly lose
by evaporation; but the rag or  sponge may  be
moistened by it, by applying either to the mouth
of the phial.  This coating of gold will remain on
the steel for a great length of time, and will pre-
serve it from rusting.
  This is the way in which swords and other cut-
lery are ornamented.  Lancets too are in this way
gilded with great advantage, to secure them from
rust.
            Gold powder for gilding.
  Gold  powder may be  prepared in three differ-
ent ways:—put  into an earthen mortar some gold
leaf,  with a little honey  or thick  gum-water, and
grind the mixture till the gold is reduced to ex-
tremely minute particles.  When this is done, a
little warm water will wash out the honey or gum,
leaving the gold behind  in a pulverulent state.
  Another.—Another way is, to dissolve pure gold,
(or the  leaf,) in  nitro-muriatic acid, and then to
precipitate it by a piece  of copper, or by a solution
of sulphate of iron.  The precipitate (if by copper,)
mu>.t be digested  in  distilled vinegar,  and  thee
washed, (by pouring water over it repeatedly,) and
ivashed, (by
hied.  Thi
             precipitate will be in the  form of a
very fine  powder: it works  better, and is more
easily burnished than gold leaf ground with honey
as above.
  Another.—The best method of preparing gold
po.vder, is by heating a prepared amalgam of gold,
in an open clean crucible, and coutinuing the strong
heat until the whole  of the mercury is evaporated;
at the same time constantly stirring the amalgam
with a glass rod.  When the mercury has com-
pletely left the gold, the  remaining powder is to
be ground in a Wedgwood's mortar, with a little
water, and afterwards dried.  It  is then fit for use.
  Although the last  mode of operating has been
here given, the operator cannot  be tooimuch re-
minded of the danger attending the sublimation of
mercury.   In the small way here  described, it is
impossible to operate without  danger; it is there-
fore better to prepare it according to the  former
directions, than to risk the health by the latter.
To cover bars of copper, &c. with gold, so as to be
              rolled  out into sheets.
  This method of gilding was invented by  Mr
Turner of Birmingham.  Mr Turner first prepares
ingots or pieces of copper or brass, in convenient
lengths and sizes.  He then cleans them from  im-
purity, and makes their surfaces  level, and pre-
pares plates of pure gold, or gold mixed  with a
portion of alloy, of the same size as the ingots of
metal, and of suitable thickness.   Having placed a
piece of gold upon an ingot intended to be  plated,
he hammers and compresses them both together,
so that they may have their surfaces  as  nearly
equal to each other as possible; and then binds them
together with wire, in order  to  keep them in the
same positiou during the  process required to at-
tach them.   Afterwards he  Ukes silver  filings,
which he mixes with borax, to assist the fusion of
the silver.  This mixture he lays upon the edge of
the plate of gold, and next to the ingot of metal.
  Having  thus prepared the two bodies, he places
them on a fire in a  stove or  furnace, where they
remain until the silver and borax placed along the
edges of the metals  melt, and until the adhesion
of the  gold with the metal  is perfect.   He then
takes the ingot carefully out of the stove.  By  this
process the ingot is plated with gold, and prepared
ready for rolling into sheets.
             To silver copper ingots.
  The principal difficulties  in plating copper in-
gots are, to bring the surfaces of  the copper  and
silver into fusion at the same time; and to prevent
the copver h-^vc scaling; for which purposes fluxes 
METALLURGY.
n
are used.   The surface of the copper on which the |
silver is to be fixed must be made flat by filing, and
should be left rough.   The silver is first annealed,
and  afterwards pickled in weak spirit of salt; it is
planished, and then scraped on the surface to  be
fitted on  the copper.  These prepared  surfaces
are anointed  with a  solution of borax, or strewed
with fine powdered borax itself, and then confined
in contact with  each other,  by binding wire.
When they are  exposed to a sufficient degree of
heat, the flux causes the surfaces to fuse at the same
time, and after they become cold, they are found
firmly united.
   Copper may likewise be plated by heating it,
and burnishing leaf-silver upon it; so may iron and
brass.   This process is called French  plating.
               To gild in colours.
   The principal colours of gold for gilding are red,
green, and yellow.  These should be kept in dif-
ferent amalgams.  The part which is  to remain of
the first colour, is to be stopped off with a compo-
 sition of  chalk and  glue; the  variety  required is
produced by gilding the unstopped parts with  the
 proper amalgam, according to  thj usual  mode of
gilding.
   Sometimes the amalgam is applied to the surface
 .0 be gilt, without  any quicking,  by   spreading it
 with aqua fortis; but this depends on the same prin-
ciple as  a previous quicking.
                Grecian gilding.
   Equal parts of sal-ammoniac and corrosive sub-
 limate, are dissolved in spirit of nitre, and a solu-
 tion of gold made with this menstrum.   The silver
 is brushed over with it, which  is turned black, but
 on exposure  to a red heat, it assumes the colour of
 gold.
          To dissolve gold in aqua regia.
   Take an aqua regia, composed of two parts of
 nitrous acid, and one of marine acid; or of one part
 of sal-ammoniac, and four parts of aqua fortis; let
 the gold be granulated, put into a sufficient quanti-
 ty of this menstruum, and exposed to a moderate
 degree of heat. ' During the  solution an efferves-
 cence takes place, and it acquires a beautiful yel-
 low colour, which becomes more and more intense,
 till it has a golden or even orange colour.  When
 the menstruum is saturated,it is very clear and trans-
 parent.
    To gild iron or steel with a  solution of gold.
   Make a solution of 8 ounces of nitre and com-
 mon salt, with  5  ounces of crude alum in a suffi-
 cient quantity of water; dissolve half  an ounce of
 gold thinly plated and cut; and afterwards evapo-
 rate to dryness.  Digest the residuum in rectified
 spirit of wine or  ether, which will   perfectly ab-
 stract the gold.  The iron is  brushed  over with
 this solution and becomes immediately gilt.
     To gild, by dissolving gold in aqua regia.
   Fine linen rags are soaked  in a saturated solu-
 tion of gold  in aqua  regia, gently dried, and after-
 wards burnt to tinder.  The  substance to be  gilt
 must be well polished; a piece of cork is first dip-
 ped into a solution of common  salt in water,  and
 afterwards into the tinder, which is  well rubbed
 on the surface of the metal to be gilt,  and the gold
 appears in all its metallic lustre.
        Amalgam of gold, in tlie large  way.
   A quantity of quicksilver is put into a crucible
 or iron ladle, which is lined with clay and exposed
 to heat till  it begins to  smoke.  The gold to be
 mixed should be previously granulated, and heated
 red hot,  when it should be added to the quicksil-
 ver, and stirred about with an iron rod till it is per-
 fectly dissolved.  If there should be any  superflu-
 ous mercury, it  may be separated by  passing  it
 khrou«-h clean soft leather; and the remaining anial-
       0
gam will have the  consistence of butter, and con-
tain about three parts of mercury to one of gold.
           To gild by amalgamation.
  The metal to be gilt is  previously well cleaned
on its surface, by boiling it in a weak pickle, which
is a very dilute nitrous aeid.  A quantity of aqua
fortis is poured into an earthen vessel, and quick
silver  put therein; when a sufficient quantity of
mercury is dissolved, the articles to be gilt are
put into the  solution, and stirred about  with a
brush till they become white.  This is called quick-
ing.  But, as during quicking by this mode, a nox-
ious vapour continually arises, which proves very
injurious to  the health of the workman, they have
adopted another method, by which they, in a great
measure, avoid that danger.  They now dissolve
the quicksilver in  a  bottle containing aqua fortis,
and leave it in the open air  during the solution, so
that the noxious vapour escapes into the air.  Then
a little of this solution is poured into a basin, and
with a brush dipped therein, they stroke over the
surface of the metal to be gilt, which immediately
becomes  quicked.  The amalgam is  now  applied
by one of the following methods:—viz.
  1st. By proportioning it  to the quantity of arti-
cles to be gilt, and putting  them into a white hat
together, working them about with a soft brush, till
the amalgam is uniformly spread.
  Or, 2dly.   By applying a  portion of the amalgam
upon one part, and spreading It on the surface, if
flat, by working it about with a  harder brush.
  The work thus managed is put into a pan, and
exposed to a gentle degree of heat; when it becomes
hot,  it is frequently put into a hat, and  worked
about with a painter's large brush, to prevent an
irregular dissipation of the mercury, till, at last, the
quicksilver is entirely dissipated by a repetition of
the heat, and the gold is attached to the surface of
the metal.   This  gilt surface is well cleaned by a
wire brush,  and then artists heighten the colour of
the gold by the application of various compositions;
this part of the process is called colouring.
                To silver by heat.
   Dissolve an ounce of pure silver in  aqua fortis,
 and precipitate it  with  common salt; to which
 add £ lb. of sal ammoniac,  sandiver,  and white vi-
 triol, and | oz. of sublimate.
   Another method.—Dissolve an ounce of pure sil-
 ver in aqua fortis; precipitate it with common salt,
 and add, after washing, 6 ounces of common salt, 3
 ounces each of sandiver and white vitriol, and^oz.
 of sublimate.
   These are to be ground into a paste upon a fine
 stone with a muller;  the substance to be  silvered
 must be rubbed over with a sufficient quantity of
 the paste, and exposed to a proper degree of heat.
 Where the  silver runs, it  is taken from the fire,
 and dipped into weak spirit of salt to clean ;t.
      Silveri?ig on gilt work, by amalgamation.
   Silver will not attach itself to any metal by amal-
 gamation, unless it be first gilt.   The process is the
 same as gilding in colours, only no acid should he
 used.
             To silver in the cold way.
   Take two drachms of each, tartar and common
 salt; % a drachm of alum, and 20 grains of silver,
 precipitated from the nitrous acid by copper; make
 them into a  paste with a little water.  This is to be
 rubbed on the surface to be silvered with a cork, &c.
   Another method.—Dissolve pure silver in aqua
 fortis, and  precipitate  the  silver with common
 salt; make this precipitate into a paste, by adding a
 little more salt and  cream of tartar.  It is applied
 as in the former method.
     To separate the silver from plated copper. _
   This process is applied to recover the silver from 
18
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK,
 the plated metal, which has been rolled down for
 buttons,  toys, &c.  without  destroying any  large
 portion of the copper.  For this purpose,  a  men-
 struum is composed of 3 pounds of oil of vitriol, l£
 ounce of nitre, and a pound of water.  The plat-
 ed metal is boiled in it till the silver is dissolved,
 and then the silver is recovered by throwing  com-
 mon salt into the solution.
              To assay plated metals.
   Take a determinate quantity of the plated me-
 tal; put it into an earthen vessel,  with a sufficient
 quantity of the above menstruum, and place it in a
 gentle heat.   When the silver is stripped, it must
 be collected with common salt; the  calx must ^e
 tested with lead, and the estimate mad^ according
 to the product of silver.
                 To plate iron.
   Iron may be plated by three  different modes.
   1st. By polishing the  surface very  clean and
 level with a burnisher; and afterwards by exposing
 it to a blueing heat, a leaf of silver is properly
 placed and carefully burnished down.  This is re-
 peated till a sufficient number of leaves are applied,
 to give the silver a  proper body.
   2d. By the use of a solder; slips of thin solder are
 placed between the iron and silver,  with  a  little
 flux, and secured together by binding wire.  It is
 then placed in a clear fire, and continued in it till
 the solder melts; when it is taken out, and on  cool-
 ing is found to adhere firmly.
   And  3d. By tinning the  iron first, and  uniting
 the silver by the intermedia of slips of rolled tin,
 brought into fusion  in a gentle heat.
      To heighten the colour of yellow gold.
   Take of salt petre, 6  oz. green copperas, 2 oz.
 white vitriol and alum, of each, 1 oz.
   If it be wanted redder, a  small portion of blue
 vitriol must be added.   These  are to  be well  mix-
 ed, and dissolved in water as the colour is wanted.
      To  heighten the colour of green gold.
   Take of salt petre, 1 oz. lOdwts. sal ammoniac,
 1 oz. 4 dwts.  Roman vitriol,  1  oz. 4  dwts. verdi-
 gris, 18 dwts.   Mix them well together, and  dis-
 solve a portion in water, as occasion requires.
   The work must be dipped in these compositions,
 applied to a proper heat to burn them off, and then
 quenched  in water or vinegar.
        To heighten the colour of red gold.
   To 4 oz. of melted yellow wax, add, in fine pow-
 der, 1^ oz. of red  ochre, 1$ oz. of verdigris,  cal-
 cined till it yield no fumes, and ^ an  oz. of calcin-
 ed borax; mix them well together.  It is necessa-
 ry to calcine the verdigris, or else, by the heat ap-
 plied in burning the wax, the vinegar becomes so
 concentrated as to corrode the surface, and make
 it  appear speckled.
   To separate gold from gilt, copper  and silver.
   App.y a solution of borax, in  water, to the  gilt
 surface, with a fine brush, and sprinkle over it some
 fine powdered sulphur. Make the piece red hot, and
 quench  it in water.   The gold may be easily wiped
 off with a  scratch-brush, and recovered by  testing
 it  with lead.
   Gold is  taken from  the  surface  of  silver by
 spreading over it a paste, made of powdered sal am-
moniac, with  aqua  fortis, and  heating it till the
 matter smokes, and is nearly dry;  when the  gold
may be separated by rubbing it with a scratch brush.
           To tin copper and brass.
   Boil six pounds of cream of tartar,  four gallons
 of water, and eight pounds of grain tin, or tin  sha-
 vings.   After the materials have boiled a sufficient
 time, the substance to be tinned is put therein, and
 the boiling continued, when the tin is  precipitated
 in its metallic form.
          To tin iron or copper vessels.
   Iron which is to be tinned, must be previously
i  steeped in acid materials, such as sour  whey, dis-
  tillers'wash, &c; then scoured, and dipped in melt-
  ed  tin, having been first rubbed  over with a solu-
  tion of sal ammoniac.   The  surface of the tin is
  prevented from calcining, by covering it with a coat
  of fat.  Copper vessels must be well cleansed; and
  then a sufficient quantity of tin with sal ammoniac
  is put therein, and brought into fusion, and the cop-
  per vessel  moved about.  A  little resin is  some-
  times added.  The sal ammoniac prevents the cop-
  per from scaling, and causes  the tin to be  fixed
  wherever it touches.  Lately,  zinc has been pro-
  posed for lining vessels instead of tin, to avoid the
  ill consequences which  have  been unjustly appre-
 hended.
            To prepare the  leaden tree.
   Put ^ an ounce of the super-acetate of lead in
 powder, into a clear glass globe or wine decanter,
 filled to the bottom  of the  neck  with distilled
 water, and 10  drops of nitric acid, and  shake the
  mixture well.  Prepare a, rod of zinc with a ham-
 mer and file, so that it may be a quarter of an inch
 thick, and one inch long; at  the  same time form
 notches in each side for  a thread,  by  which it is to
 be suspended, and tie the thread  so that the knot
 shall be uppermost, when the metal hangs quite per-
 pendicular.  When it is tied, pass the two ends o.'
 the thread  through a perforation  in the  cork, and
 let them be again  tied over a small splinter of wood
 which  may pass between them and  the  cork.
 When the string is  tied, let the length between the
 cork and the zinc be such that the precipitant (the
 zinc) may be at equal distances from the sides, bot-
 tom, and top, of the vessel, when immersed in it.
 When all things arc thus prepared,  place the ves-
 sel in a place where it may not be disturbed, and
 introduce the zinc, at the same time fitting in  the
 cork.   The metal will very soon be covered with
 the lead, which it precipitates from  the solution,
 and this will continue to take  place until the whole
 be precipitated upon the zinc, which will assume
 the form of a tree or  bush, whose leaves and
 branches are laminal, or plates of a- metallic lus-
 tre.
             To prepare the tin tree.
   Into the same, or a similar vessel to that used in
 the last experiment, pour distilled water as before,
 and put in three drachms of muriate of tin, adding
 ten drops of nitric acid, and shake the vessel until
 the salt be completely dissolved.  Replace the zinc
 (which must be cleared from the effects of the
 former experiment,) as before, and set the  whole
 aside to precipitate without  disturbance.   In a few
 hours, the effect will be similar to the  last, only
 that the tree of tiu will have  more lustre.   In these
 experiments, it is  surprising to observe the laminae
 shoot out as it were  from nothing ; but this pheno-
 menon setms to proceed from a galvanic action ol
 the metals  and the water.
            To prepare the silver tree.
   Pour into a glass globe or decanter, 4 drachma
 of nitrate of silver,  dissolved  in a pound or more
 of distilled water, and lay the vessel on the chimney
 piece, or in some place where it may not be dis-
 turbed.  Now  pour  in 4 drachms of mercury.  In
 a short time the silver will be precipitated "in the
 most  beautiful arborescent  form, resembling real
 vegetation.   This has been generally termed the
 Arbor Dianse.
      Metallic -watering, or for blanc moire.
   This article, of Parisian invention, which is much
 employed to cover ornamental  cabinet work, dress-
 ing boxes, telescopes, opera glasses, &e. &c. is pre-
 pared in the following manner.
   Sulphuric acid is to be diluted with from seven
 to nine parts of water; then dip a sponge  or rae
 into it, and  wash with it the surface of a  sheet  of 
METALLURGY.
19
tin.  This will speedily exhibit an appearance  of
crystallization, whicn is the moire.
  This effect, however, cannot be easily produced
upon every sort of sheet tin, for if the sheet has
been much  hardened by  hammering  or  rolling,
then the moire cannot be  effected until the sheet
has been heated so as to produce an incipient fusion
on  the surface, after which the acid will  act upon
it, and produce the moire.  Almost any acid will
do as well as the sulphuric,  and  it is said that the
citric acid dissolved in a sufficient quantity of wa-
ter, answers better than any other.
  The moire may  be much  improved by employ-
ing the blow pipe, to form small and beautiful
specks on the surface of the tin, previous to the ap-
plication of the acid.
  When the moire has been formed, the plate is
to be varnished and polished, the varnish being
tinted with any glazing colour, and thus  the  red,
green,  yellow, and pearl coloured moires are ma-
nufactured.
               Chinese sheet lead.
  The operation is carried  on by two men ; one
is seated on the floor with a large flat stone before
him, and with a moveable flat stone-stand at his
side.  His fellow workman stands beside him with
a crucible filled with  melted lead ;  and  having
poured a certain quantity upon the stone, the other
lifts the moveable  stone, and dashing it on the fluid
lead presses it out  into a flat and thin plate, which
he instantly removes  from the  stone.  A  second
quantity of lead is poured in a similar manner, and
a similar plate formed, the process being carried
on with singular rapidity.  The rough edges of the
plates are then cut off, and they are soldered to-
gether for use.
  Mr Waddel has applied this method with great
success to the formation of thin plates of zinc, for
yalvanic purposes.
                  PARTING.

   By this process gold and silvei-are separated from
 each  other.  These  two metals equally resisting
 the action of fire and lead, must therefore be sepa-
 rated by other means.  This is effected by differ-
 ent menstrua.  Nitrous acid, marine acid, and sul-
 phur, which cannot attack gold,  operate upon sil-
 ver ; and these  are the principal agents employed
 in this process.
   Parting by nitrous acid is most convenient, con-
 sequently most used,—indeed, it is the only one |
 employed by goldsmiths.   This is called simply
 parting.
   That made by the marine acid is by cementation,
 and is called centrated parting ;  and parting by
 sulphur is made by fusion, and called  dry part-
 ing.
             Parting by aquafortis.
   This process cannot succeed unless we attend to
 some  essential  circumstances : 1st. the gold and
 silver must be in a proper  portion, viz. the silver
 ought to be three parts  to one of gold ; though a
 mass containing two parts of silver to one of gold
 may be parted.   To judge of the quality of the
 metal to be  parted, assayers make a comparison
 upon a touch-stone, between it and certain needles
composed of gold and silver, in graduated  propor-
tions, and properly  marked ;  which  are called
 puoof needles.   If this trial shews that the silver
 is  not to the gold as three to one, the mass is im-
proper for the.  operation,  unless  more silver be
added ; and 2dly, that the  parting may be exact,
the aqua fortis must be very  pure, especially free
from any mixture of the vitriolic or marine acid.
For if  this were not attended to, a quantity of sil-
 ver proportionable to these two foreign acids would
 be separated during the solution ; and this quanti-
 ty of sulphate of silver would remain mingled with
 the gold, which consequently would not be entirely
 purified by the operation.
   The gold  and silver to be parted ought previous-
 ly to be granulated, by melting it in a crucible, and
 pouring it into  a vessel of water, giving the water
 at the same  time a rapid circular motion, by quick-
 ly stirring it round with a stick.   The vessels ge-
 nerally used iii this  operation are  called parting
 glasses, which ought to be very well annealed, and
 chosen free from flaws; as one of the chief incon-
 veniences attending the operation is, that the glasses
 are apt to crack by exposure to cold, or even when
 touched by the  hand.   Some operators secure the
 bottom of the glasses by a coating composed  of a
 mixture of new-slaked lime, with beer and whites
 of eggs, spread on a cloth, and wrapped round the
 glasses at the  bottom ; over which they  apply a
 composition of  clay and hair.  The parting glasses
 should beplaced in vessels containing water support-
 ed by trivets, with a fire under them ; because if a
 glass should break, the contents  are caught in the
 vessel of water. If the heat communicated to the
 water be too great, it may be properly regulated by
 pouring cold water gradually and carefully down
 the side of the vessel into a parting  glass 15 inches
 high, and 10 or 12  inches  wide at the bottom;
 placed in a  copper pan 12 inches wide at  bottom,
 15 inches wide  at top, and 10 inches high,  there is
 usually put about 80 ounces of metal, with twice as
 much of aqua fortis.
i   The aqua  fortis ought to be so strong as to act
 sensibly on  silver, when cold, but not so'strong  as
 to act violently.  Little heat should be applied  at
 first, as the liquor is apt to swell  and rise over the
 vessel;  but when the acid is nearly  saturated, the
 heat may safely be increased.  AVhen the solution
 ceases, which is known uy the effervescence  dis-
 continuing, the  liquor is to be poured off; if any
 grains  appear  entire, more aqua fortis must be
 added, till the  silver is  all dissolved.  If the  ope-
 ration has been performed slowly, the remaining
 gold will have the form of distinct  masses.   The
 gold appears black after parting ; its parts  have no
 adhesion together, because the silver dissolved from
 it has left many interstices.  To  give them more
 solidity, and improve their colour,  they are put
 into a test under a muffle, and made red hot, after
 which they contract and become  more solid, and
 the gold resumes its  colour and lustre.  It is then
 called grain gold.  If the operation has been per-
 formed hastily, the gold will have the appearance
 of black mud or powder, which, after well washing,
 must be melted.
   The silver is usually recovered by precipitating
 it from the aqua fortis by means of pure copper.
 If the solution be perfectly saturated, no precipi-
 tation can take place, till a few drops of aqua fortis
 are added to the liquor.   The precipitate of silver
 must be well washed  with boiling water, and may
 be fused with nitre, or tested off  with lead.
             Parting by cementation.
   A cement  is  prepared, composed  of four parts
 of bricks powdered  and sifted;  of one  part of
 green vitriol calcined till it becomes red ;  and of
 one part of common saft: this is to  be made  into
 a firm paste with a little  water.  It is called  the
 CEMENT ROIAI..
   The gold to he cemented is reduced into plates
 as thin as money.  At the bottom of the crucible
 or  cementing pot,  a stratum of cement,  of  the
 thickness of  a finger,  is put, which is covered with
 plates of gold ;  and so the strata are  placed alter-
 nately.   The whole is covered with  a lid,  which
 is luted with a mixture  of clay  and sand.  This 
20
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
pot nrast be placed in a furnace, or oven,  heated I
gradually till it becomes red hot, in which it must |
be continued during 24 hours.  The heat must not
melt the gold. The pot or crucible is then suffered
to cool; and the gold carefully separated  from the
cement, and boiled at different times in a large
quantity of pure water.   It is then assayed upon a
touch-stone, or otherwise;  and  if it be not suffi-
ciently pure, it is cemented a second time.  In this
process the vitriolic acid of the bricks, and of the
calcined vitriol, decomposes the common salt du-
ring the  cementation, by uniting to  its  alkaline
base, while the marine acid becomes concentrated
by the heat and dissolves the silver alloyed with the
gold.  This is a  very troublesome process, though
it succeeds when  the portion of silver is  so small
that it would be defended from the action of aqua
fortis by the superabundant gold; but is little used,
except to extract  silver, or base metals, from the
surface of gold, and *hus giving to an alloyed  me-
tal, the colour and appearance of pure gold.
                  Dry parting.
  This process is performed by sulphur, which will
easily unite with  silver, but does  not  attack gold.
As this dry parting is even troublesome, as well as
expensive, it ought not to be undertaken  but on a
considerable quantity of silver  alloyed with gold.
The general procedure  is as follows.—The metal
must be granulated; from 1.8  to 1.5 of it  (accord-
ing as it is richer or poorer in the gold,) is reserv-
ed, and the rest well mingled with an eighth  of
powdered sulphur; and put into a crucible, keeping
a gentle fire, that the silver, before melting,  may
be thoroughly penetrated by the  sulphur;  if the
fire be hastily urged, the sulphur will be dissipated.
If to sulphurated silver in fusion, pure silver  be
added, the latter falls to  the bottom, and forms
there a distinct fluid,  not miscible with the other.
The particles  of gold, having no  affinity  with the
sulphurated silver, join themselves to the pure sil-
ver wherever they come in contact, and  are  thus
transferred from the former into the latter, more
or less perfectly,  according as the  pure silver was
more or less thoroughly diffused through the mix-
ture.  It is for this use that a part of the granulated
silver was reserved.   The  sulphurated mass being
brought into fusion, and kept melting for nearly an
hour in a covered crucible, one-third of the re-
served grains is  thrown in, which, when melted,
the whole is well stirred, that the fresh silver may
be distributed through the mixed to  collect  the
gold from it; this is performed with a wooden rod.
This is repeated  till the whole  reserved  metal  be
introduced.  The sulphurated silver appears,  in
fusion, of a dark brown colour;  after it  has been
kept in fusion for a certain time, a part of the sul-
phur having escaped from the top, the surface be-
comes white, and some bright drops of silver about
the size of a pea, are perceived on it.  When this
happens the fire must be immediately discontinued,
for otherwise more  and more  of the  silver  thus
losing its sulphur, would subside and mingle  with
the part at the bottom, in  which the gold is col»
lected.   The  whole  is poured into an iron  mortar
greased and duly heated.  The gold diffused at first
through the whole mass, is pow found collected in
a part of it at  the bottom, (amounting only to about
   .?>nch as was reserved unsulphurated from the
mass) by a chisel or hammer; or more perfectly by
placing the whole mass with its bottom upwards
in a crucible,  the sulphurated part quickly melts,
leaving, unmelted, that whicti  contains the gold.
The  sulphurated silver is assayed, ,by keeping a
portion of it in  fusion  in an  open enucible, till
the sulphur is dissipated;  and  then  by .dissolving
it in aqua fortis.   If it should still be found to con-
acaro goid, it must be subjected to the same treat-
I  ment as before.  The gold thus collected may be
[  concentrated into a smaller part by repeating the
  whole process, so that at last it may be parted by
  aqua fortis without too much expense.
             IRON AND STEEL.

Expeditious mode of reducing iron ore into malle-
                   able iron.
  The way of proceeding is by stamping, washing,
&lC. the calcine and materials, to separate  the ore
from extraneous matter; then fusing the prepared
ore in an open furnace, and instead of casting it,
to suffer it to remain at the bottom  of  the furnace
till it becomes cold.
New method of shingling and manufacturing iron.
  The ore being fused in a reverberating furnace,
is conveyed, while fluid, into an air-furnace, where
it is exposed to a strong heat, till a bluish flame is
observed on the surface, it is then agitated on the
surface, till it loses  its fusibility, and  is collected
into lumps called loops.  These  loops are then put
into another  air-furnace,  brought  to  a  white or
welding heat, and then shingled into  half-blooms
or slabes.   They are again exposed to  the air-fur-
nace, and the half-blooms taken out and forged into
anconies, bars, half-flats, and rodsiortsire; while
the slabes are passed,  when of a  welding heat,
through the grooved rollers.  In this way  of pro-
ceeding, it matters not whether the iron  is pre-
pared from cold, or  hot-short metal, nor is there
any occasion for the use of finery, charcoal, coke,
chafery or hollow-fire; or any blast by  bellows, or
otherwise; or the use of fluxes, in any  part of the
process.
      Approved method of-welding  iron.
  This consists in the skilful bundling  of the iron
to be welded; in the use of an extraordinarily large
forge-hammer, in.employing a balling-furnace, in-
stead  of a hollow-fire or chafery;  and in passing
the iron, reduced to a melting heat, through grooved
mill rollers of different shapes  and sizes, as re-
quired.—Repertory of Arts, vol. iii.
       Welding steel, or iron and cast-steel.
  Melt borax  in  an earthen vessel, and add one-
tenth of pounded sal ammoniac.  When well mixed,
pour it out on an iron plate, and as soon  as it is
cold, pulverize and mix it with an equal quantity
of unslaked lime.   To proceed to  the operation,
the iron or steel must be first heated to a red heat,
and the powder strewed over it; the pieces of metal
thus prepared are to be again  put in the fire, and
raised to a heat considerably lower than the usual
welding one, when it is to  be withdrawn and well
beaten by a hammer, till the surfaces are perfectly
united.
              Common hardening.
  Iron by being heated red hot, and plunged into
cold water, acquires a great degree of hardness.
This  proceeds from the  coldness  of the water
which contracts the particles of  the  iron into less
space.
                Case-hardening.
   Case-hardening is a superficial conversion of iron
into steel by cementation. It is performed on small
pieces of iron, by enclosing them in an iron box,
containing burnt leather, bone-dust, or any other
phlogistic substance; and exposing them for some
hours to a red heat.   The  surface of the iron thus
becomes perfectly metallized.   Iron thus  treated
is susceptible of the finest polish.
     To convert iron into steel by cementation.
   The iron is formed into bars of a convenient
size, and then placed in a cementing furnace, with
sufficient quantity of cement, which is composed
of coals of animal or vegetable  substanees, mixed 
with calcined bones, &c.  The following are very
excellent cements:—1st, one part of powdered char-
coal, and half a part of wood-ashes well mix^d to-
gether; or, 2dly, two parts of charcoal, moderately
powdered,  one part of bones,  horn, hair, or skins
of animals, burnt in close vessels to blackness and
[fowdered; and half a part of wood-ashes; mix them
well together.  The bars of iron to be converted
into steel, are placed upon a  stratum of cement,
and covered all over with the same; and the vessel
which contains them closely luted, must be exposed
to a red heat for 8 or 10 hours, when the iron will
be converted into steel.
  Steel is prepared from bar iron by fusion; which
consists  of plunging a bar into  melted iron, and
Keeping it there for some time,  by which process
it is converted into good steel.
  All  iron  which becomes harder by suddenly
quenching in cold water is called steel; and that
steel which in quenching acquires the greatest de-
gree of hardness in the lowest degree of heat, and
retains the greatest strength in and after induration,
ought to be considered as the best.
      Improved process of hardening steel.
  Articles manufactured of steel for  the purposes
of cutting,  are,  almost  without an  exception,
hardened from the anvil; in other words, they are
taken from the forger to the hardener without un-
dergoing any intermediate process; and such is the
accustomed routine, that the mischief arising has
escaped observation.  The act of forging produces
a strong scale or coating, which  is spread over the
whole of the blade; and to make  the evil Still more
formidable, this scale or coating is unequal in sub-
stance, varying in proportion to the degree  of heat
communicated to the steel in forging; it is, partial-
ly, almost impenetrable to the action of water
when immersed  for  the purpose of hardening.
Hence it is that different degrees of hardness pre-
vail in  nearly every razor manufactured:  this is
evidently a positive defect; and so long as it conti-
nues to exist, great difference of temperature must
exist likewise.   Razor-blades not unfrequently ex-
hibit the fact here stated in a very striking man-
ner: what are termed clouds, or parts of unequal
polish,  derive their origin  from this cause; and
clearly  and distinctly, or rather distinctly  though
not clearly, show how far this partial coating has
extended, and where  the action  of the water has
been yielded to, and where resisted.  It certainly
cannot be matter of astonishment, that so few im-
provements have been made in  the hardening of
steel, when the evil her*" complained of so univer-
sally obtains, as almost to warrant the supposition
that no  attempt has ever  been  made to remove it.
The remedy, however, is easy ami  simple in the
extreme, and so evidently efficient in its applica-
tion, that it cannot but excite surprise, that, in the
present highly improved  state of our manufactures,
such a communication should be  made as a disco-
very entirely new.
  Instead,  therefore,  of the customary mode of
hardening the blade from the anvil, let it be passed
immediately from the hands of  the forger to the
grinder; a slight application of the stone will re-
move the whole  of the  scale  or coating, and the
razor will then  be properly prepared to undergo
the operation of hardening with advantage.  It will
be easily ascertained, that steel in this state heats
in the fire with greater regularity, and that when
immersed, the obstacles being removed to the im-
mediate  action  of the water on  the  body of the
steel, the latter becomes equally hard from one ex-
tremity to the other.  To this may be added, that,
as the lowest  possible heat at xvluch  steel becomes
hard is indubitably the best, the mode  here recom-
mended will  be  found the only  one by which the
LLURGY.                                    21

 I process of hardening can be  effected with a less
  portion of fire than is, or can  be, required in any
 ] other way.   These observations are decisive, and
  will, in all probability, tend to establish in gene-
 ! ral use what cannot but be regarded as a very im-
  portant improvement in the manufacturing of edged
  steel instruments.—Rhodes' Essay on the  Manu-
  facture of a Razor.
  Improved mode of hardening steel by  hammering.
    Gravers, axes, and  in fact  all steel instruments
  that require to be excessively hard, may be easily
  rendered so by heating them to the tempering de-
  gree and  hammering them till  cold.   If a graver,
  it is to be heated to a straw colour, hammered on
  the acute edge of the belly, tempered to the straw
  colour again, ground and whetted to a proper shape.
  A graver thus prepared will cut into steel, without
  previous decarbonization.   If the point should on
  trial be found not sufficiently hard, the  operation
  of heating, hammering, and tempering, &c.  may
  he repeated as often as necessary.
                English cast steel.
   The finest of steel called i glish cast  steel, is
  prepared  by breaking to pieces blistered steel, and
  then melting it in a crucible with a flux composed
  of carbonaceous  and vitrifiable ingredients.   The
  vitrifiable ingredient is used only inasmuch as it ii
  a fusible body, which flows over the surface of the
  metal in the crucibles, and prevents the access of
  the oxygen of the  'tmosphere.  Broken glass ii
  sometimes used for this purpose.
   When  thoroughly fused  it  is cast  into ingots,
  which, by gentle heating and  careful hammering,
  are tilted into bars.  By this process, the steel be-
  comes more highly carbonized in proportion to the
  quantity of flux, and in consequence is more brittle
  and fusible than  before.  Hence it  surpasses all
  other steel in uniformity of texture, hardness and
  closeness of grain, and is die material employed in
  all the finest articles of English cutlery.
   To make edge-tools from cast steel and iron.
   This method consists in fixing a clean piece of
  wrought  iron, brought to a welding heat,  in the
  ceVitre of a mould, and then pouring in melted steel,
  so as entirely to envelope the iron ; and then forg-
  ing the mass into the shape  required.
               To colour steel blue.
   The steel must be finely polished on its surface,
  and then exposed to an uniform degree of heat.
  Accordingly,  there are three ways  of colouring:
  first by a flame  producing no  soot, as spirit of
  wine; secondly, by a hot plate of iron ; and third-
  ly, by wood-ashes.   As a very regular degree of
  heat is necessary, wood-ashes for fine work bears
  the preference.   The work must be covered over
  with them, and carefully watched; when the colour
  is sufficiently heightened, the work is perfect.  This
  colour is occasionally taken off with a very dilute
  marine acid.
           To distinguish steel from iron.
   The principal characters by which steel may be
  distinguished from  iron, are as follows :—
   1. After being polished, steel appears of a whiter
  light grey hue, without the blue cast exhibited by
  iron.   It also takes a higher polish.
   2. The hardest steel, when not annealed, appears
  granulated, but dull, and without shining fibres.
   3. When steeped in acids the harder the steel is,
  of a darker hue is its surface.
   4. Steel is not  so much inclined to rust as iron.
   5. In general,  steel  has a greater specific gra-
  vity.
   6. By being hardened and wrought, it  may be
  rendered  much more elastic than iron.
   7. It is not attracted so strongly by the magnet as
  soft iron.   It likewise acquires  magnetic proper-
  ties more slowly,  but retains them longer; for 
22
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
which reason, steel is used in  making needles for
compasses and artificial magnets.
  8. Steel is ignited sooner, and fuses with less de-
gree of heat, than malleable iron, which can scarce-
ly be made to fuse without the addition of powder-
ed  charcoal ; by which it is converted into steel,
and afterwards into crude  iron.
  9. Polished steel is sooner tinged  by heat, and
that with higher colours than iron.
  10. In a calcining heat, it suffers less loss by
burning, than soft iron does in the same heat, and
the same time.   In calcination a light blue  flame
hovers over the steel, either with or without a sul-
phureous odour.
  11. The scales of steel are harder and sharper
      To give a drying quality to poppy oil.
  Into 3 lbs. of pure water, put 1 oz. of sulphate
of zinc, (white vitriol) and rr:\ the  whole  with 2
pounds of oil of pinks, or poppy oil.   Expose this
mixture in an earthen vessel capablcof standing the
fire, to a degree of heat sufficient to maintain it in
a slight state of ebullition.  When one half or two-
thirds of the water has evaporated, pour the whole
into a large glass  bottle or jar, and leave it at rest
tiil the oii becomes clear.  Decant the clearest part
by means of a glass funnel, the  beak of which is
stopped with a  piece of coi'k :  when the separation
of the oil from the water is completely effected,
remove the cork stopper, and supply its place by
the fore-finger, which must be applied in  such a
manner as to suffer the water to escape, and to re-
tain only the oil.
  Poppy-oil when prepared in  this manner  be-
comes, after some weeks, exceedingly limpid and
colourless.
       To give a drying quality to fat oils.
  Take of nut-oil, or linseed-oil, 8 lbs. white lead,
slightly calcined,  yellow acetate of lead, (salsatur-
ni) also calcined,  sulphate of zinc, (white vitriol)
each 1 oz. vitreous oxide of lead, (litharge) 12  oz.
a head of garlic, or a small onion.
  When the dry substances are pulverized, mix
them with, the garlic and oil, over a fire capable of
maintaining the oil in a slight state  of ebullition :
continue it till the oil ceases to throw up scum, till
it assumes a reddish colour, and till  the head of
garlic becomes brown.   A pellicle  will then be
soon formed on the oil, which indicates that  the
operation is completed.   Take the vessel from the
tire, and the pellicle, being precipitated by rest,
wili carry with it all the unctuous parts which ren-
dered the oil fat.  When the oil becomes clear,
separate it from the deposit, and put it into wide-
mouthed bottles,  where it will completely  clarify
itself in time,  and improve in quality.
  Another method.—Take of vitreous oxide of lead,
(litharge) 1$ oz.  sulphate of zinc, (white  vitriol)
j-8 of an oz. or 3 gros. linseed, or nut-oil, 16 oz.
The operation must be conducted as in the preced-
ing case.
  The choice of the oil is not  a  matter of indiffer-
ence. If it be destined for painting articles exposed
to the impression of the external air, or for deli-
cate painting,  nut-oil or poppy-oil will be requi-
site.   Linseed oil is used for coarse painting,  and
that sheltered from '.he effects of the rain and of the
sun.
than those of iron ;  and consequently more fit foi
polishing with.
  12. In a white  heat, when exposed to the blast
of the bellows among the coals, it begins to  sweat,
wet, or melt, partly with light-coloured and bright,
and partly with red sparkles, but  less  crackling
than those of iron.   In a melting heat too, it con-
sumes faster.
  13. In the vitriolic,  nitrous,  and  other  acids,
steel is violently attacked, but is longer in dissolv-
ing than  iron.  After maceration, according as it
is softer or harder, it appears of a lighter, or dark-
er grey  eolour; while iron on the other hand is
white.
  A little negligence in the management of the fire,
has often an influence on the colour of the oil, to
which  a drying quality is communicated; in this
case it is not proper for delicate painting.  This in-
convenience may be avoided by tying  up the dry-
ing matters in a small bag; but the dose of the lith-
arge must then  be doubled.  The bag must be sus-
pended by a piece of packthread fastened to a stick,
which  is made to rest on the edge of the vessel in
such a manner as to keep the bag at  the  distance
of an inch from the  bottom of the vessel.  A pel-
licle will be formed as in the fm-. operation, but it
will be slower in making its appearance.
  Another.—A drying-quality may be  communi-
cated  to oil by treating, in a heat capable of  main-
taining a slight ebullition, linseed  or nut-oil, to
each pound of which  is added 3 oz. of vitreous ox-
ide of lead, (litharge) reduced to fine  powder.
  The preparation of floor-cloths, and all paintings
of large figures  or ornaments,  in which argillaceous
colours, such as yellow and red boles, Dutch pink,
&c. are employed,  require this kind of prepara-
tion, that the desiccation may not be too slow; but
painting for which  metallic oxides are used, such
as preparations of lead,  copper, &c.  require only
the doses before indicated, because  these oxides
contain a great  deal of oxygen, and the oil, by their
contact, acquires more of a drying quality.
  Another.—-Take of nut-oil, 2 lbs. common  wa-
ter, 3 do. sulphate of zinc, (white vitriol) 2 oz.
  Mix these matters, and subject them to a  slight
ebullition,  till  little  water remains.  Decant the
oil which will pass over with a small quantity of
water, and separate the  latter by means of  a fun-
nel. The oil remains nebulous for some time; after
which  it becomes clear, and seems to be very little
coloured.
  Another.—Take of nut oil, or linseed oil, 6 lbs.
common water, 4 lbs. sulphate of zinc, 1 oz.  garlic,
one head.
  Mix these matters  in a large iron or copper pan;
then place them over the fire, and  maintain the
mixture in a state of ebullition during the whole
day; boiling water  must from time to time be ad-
ded, to make up for the loss of  that by  evapora-
tion.   The garlic will assume a brown appearance.
Take the pan from the fire, and having suffered  a
deposit to be formed, decant  the  oil, which  will
clarify itself in the vessel.  By  this process the
drying oil is rendered somewhat more coloured
it is reserved for delicate colours.
VARNISHES. 
VARN1
              Resinous drying oil.
  Take 10 lbs.  of drying nut oil, if the paint is
destined for external  articles, or  10  lbs. of dry-
ing linseed oil, if for internal,  resin, 3 lbs. turpen-
tine, 6 oz.
  Cause the resin to dissolve the oil  by means of
a gentle  heat.  When dissolved and  incorporated
with the oil, add the turpentine:  leave the varnish
at l est,  by which means it will often  deposit por-
tions of resin and other impurities; and then pre-
serve it in wide mouthed bottles.   It  must be used
fresh; when suffered to grow old it abandons some
of its resin.  If this resinous oil assumes too much
consistence, dilute it with  a little essence,  if in-
tended for articles sheltered from the sun, or with
oil  of poppies.
  In Switzerland, where the principal part of  the
mason's work consists of stone subject to crumble
to pieces, it is often found necessary to  give them
a coating of oil paints to stop the effects of this de-
composition.  This painting has  a great deal of
lustre, and  when t'he last coating is  applied with
resinous oil,  it has  the  effect of a  varnish.   To
give it more durability, the first  ought to  be ap-
plied exceedingly warm  and with plain oil, or oil
very little charged, with the grey colour, which is
added to the two following.—
               Fat copal varnish.
  Take picked copal, 16 ounces, prepared linseed
oil, or oil of poppies, 8 do. essence of turpentine,
16 do.
  Liquefy the copal in a matrass over a common
fire, and then add the linseed oil, or oil of poppies, in
a state of ebullition;  when these matters are in-
corporated, take the matrass from the fire, stir the
matter till the greatest heat is subsided, and then
add the essence of turpentine warm.  Strain  the
whole,  while still warm, through a piece of linen,
and put the varnish into a wide-mouthed bottle.
Time contributes towards its clarification; and in
this manner it acquires abetter quality.
 Varnish for watch cases inimitation of tortoise shell.
  Take copal of an  amber colour,  6 oz. Venice
turpentine, 1 \ oz. prepared linseed oil, 24  oz. es-
 sence of turpentine, 6 oz.
  It is customary to  place the turpentine over the
copal,  reduced to small  fragments, in the bottom
of an earthen or metal vessel, or in a matrass  ex-
posed to such a heat as to liquefy the copal: but it
is more advantageous to liquefy the  latter alone,
to add the oil in a state of ebullition,  then the tur-
pentine liquefied, and in the last place the essence.
If the varnish is too  thick, some  essence may bo
added.   The latter liquor  is a regulator for the
consistence in the hands  of an artist.
        To make a colourless copal varnish.
   As all copal is not fit for this purpose, in order
 to ascertain such pieces as are good,  each must be
taken separately, and a single drop of pure essen-
tial oil of  rosemary, not altered by keeping, must
be  let  fall on it.  Those pieces which soften at the
part that  imbibes the oil, are good;  reduce them
to powder, which sift through a very fine hair sieve,
and put it into a glass, on the bottom of  which it
must not lie more than  a finger's breadth  thick.
Pour upon it essence of rosemary to a similar height;
 stir the whole for a few minutes, when the copal
will dissolve into a viscous fluid.  Let it stand for
two hours, and then pour gently on it two or three
drops of very pure alcohol, which distribute over
the oily mass, by  inclining the bottle in  different
directions with a very gentle motion.  Repeat this
operation by little and little, till the  incorporation
is effected, and the varnish reduced to a proper de-
gree of fluidity.   It  must  then  be left to stand a
few days, and when very  clear  be  decanted  off.
This varnish, thus made without heat, may be ap-
3HES.                                       23

plied with equal success to pasteboard, wood, and
metals, and takes  a better polish than any other.
It may be used  on paintings, the beauty  of  which
it greatly heightens.—Monthly Mag. Oct. 1809.
           Gold coloured copal varnish.
   Take copal in powder, 1 ounce, ess .tial oil of
lavender, 2 do. essence of turpentine, 6 do.
   Put the essential oil of lavender  into  a matrass
of a proper size, placed on a sand-bath heated by
an Argand's  lamp, or over a moderate   coal fire.
Add to the oil while very warm,  and at several
times, the copal powder, and stir the mixture with
a  stick of white wood rounded at the end.  When
the copal has  entirely disappeared, add at three
different times the essence almost in a state of ebul-
lition, and  keep continually stirring the mixture.
When the solution is completed, the result will be
a varnish.of a gold colour, exceedingly durable and
brilliant, but less drying than the preceding.
   Another method.—To obtain this varnish colour-
less, it will be proper to rectify the essence of the
shops, which is often highly coloured, and to give
it the necessary density by exposure to the sun in
bottles closed with cork stoppers, leaving an inter-
val of some inches between  the stopper and the
surface of the liquid.  A few months are thus suf-
ficient to communicate to it the required qualities.
Besides, the essence of the shops is rarely possess-
ed of that state of consistence, without having at
the same time a strong amber colour.
   The varnish resulting from the solution of copal
in oil  of turpentine, brought to such a state as to
produce the maximum  of solution,  is exceedingly
durable and brilliant.  It resists the shock of hard
bodies much betfer than the enamel of toys, which
often becomes scratched and whitened by the im-
pression of repeated friction; it is susceptible also
of a fine polish. It is applied with the greatest suc-
cess to philosophical instruments, and the paintings
with which vessels and other utensils of metal are
decorated.
   Another.—Take copal, 4  ounces,  clear turpen-
tine,  1  oz.
   Put the copal, coarsely pulverized, into a varnish
pot, and give it the form of a pyramid, which must
be covered  with turpentine.  Shut the vessel close-
ly, and placing it over  a gentle fire, increase the
heat gradually that it may not attack the  copal; as
soon as the matter is well liquefied,  pour it upon
a  plate of copper, and when it has resumed its con-
sistence reduce it to powder.
   Put half an ounce of this powder into a matrass
with four ounces of the essence of turpentine, and
stir the mixture till the solid matter is entirely dis-
solved.—Journal de Physique.
            Camphorated copal varnish.
   This varnish is destined  for articles which re-
quire  durability,  pliableness,  and  transparency,
such as the varnished wire-gauze, used in ships in-
stead of glass.
   Take cf pulverized copal, 2 oz. essential  oil oi
lavender, 6 do. camphor 1-8 of an oz. essence ot
turpentine, a sufficient  quantity, according to the
consistence required to be given to the varnish.
   Put into a phial of thin glass, or into a small ma-
trass, the essential oil of ^avender and the camphor;
and place the mixture on a moderately open fire,
to bring the oil and the  camphor to a slight state
of ebullition; then add  the copal powder in small
portions, which must be renewed as they disappear
in the liquid.   Favour the solution', by continually
Stirring it with a stick of white wood; and  when the
copal is incorporated with the oil, add the essence
of turpentine boiling; but care must  be  taken to
pour in, at first, only a small portion.
   This varnish is little coloured, and by  rest it ac-
quires a transparency which, united to the soliditv 
£4                             UNIVERSAL R

observed in almost every kind of copal varnishes,
renders it fit to be applied  with great success in
many cases, and particularly in the ingenious  in-
vention of substituting varnished metallic gauze in
the room of Muscovy tale, a kind of mica, in large
lamince, used for the cabin windows of ships, as
presenting more resistance to the concussion of the
air during the firing of the guns.  Varnished me-
tallic gauze, of this kind, is manufactured at Rouen.
            Ethereal copal varnish.
  Take of amberry copal, ^  ounce, ether, 2 ditto.
  Reduce the copal to a very fine powder, and in-
troduce it by small portions  injto  the flask which
contains the ether; close the  flask with a glass or a
cork stopper, and having shaken  the mixture  for
half an hour,  leave it at rest  till the next morning.
In shaking the flask, if the sides  become covered
with small undulations, and if the liquor he not ex-
ceedingly clear, the solution is not complete.  In
this  case, add a little ether, and leave the mixture
at rest.  The varnish is  of a white lemon  colour.
The largest quantity of coDal united to ether may
be a fourth, and the least a fifth.  The use of copal
varnish made with ether seems, by the expense at-
tending it, to be confined to repairing those acci-
dents which frequently happen to the enamel of
toys, as it will supply the place of glass to the co-
loured varnishes employed for mending fractures,
or to restoring the smooth surface  of paintings
which have been cracked and shattered.
  The great  volatility of ether, and  in particular
its high price, do not allow the application of this
varnish to  be recommended,  but for the purpose
here indicated.   It has been  applied to wood with
complete success, and the glazing it produced unit-
ed lustre to solidity.  In consequence of the too
speedy evaporation of the liquid, it often boils un-
der the brush.  Its evaporation, however,  may be
retarded, by spreading over the wood a slight stra-
tum of essential oil of rosemary, or lavender, or
even of turpentine, which may afterwards be  re-
moved by a piece of linen rag; what remains is suf-
ficient to retard the evaporation of the ether.
           Turpentine copal varnish.
  Take of copal, of an amber colour, and in pow-
der, 1£ ounce, best oil of turpentine, 8 ditto.
  Expose the essence  to a  balneum  marise, in a
wide-mouthed matrass with a short neck; as soon
as the water of the bath begins to boil, throw into
the essence a large pinch of copal powder, and keep
the matrass in a state of  circular  motion.  When
the powder is incorporated with the  essence, add
new doses of it; and continue  in  this manner till
you observe that there is formed an insoluble de-
posit.  Then take the matrass from the bath, and
leave it at rest for some days.   Draw off the clear
varnish, and filter it through cotton.
  At the moment when the first portion of the co-
pal is thrown into the essence, if the powder pre-
cipitate itself under the form of lumps, it is need-
less to proceed  any further. This effect arises from
two causes: either the essence  does not possess the
proper degree of concentration, or it has not been
sufficiently deprived of water.  Exposure to the
sun, employing the same matrass, to which a cork
stopper ought to be added,  will give it the quali-
ties requisite for the solution of the copal.  This
effect will be announced by the disappearance of
the portion of copal already put into it.
  Another copal varnish.—Take of copal,  liquefi-
ed, 3 oz. essence of turpentine, 20 do.
  Place the matrass containing the oil in a balneum
marise, and when the water boils add the pulveriz-
ed copal in small doses. Keep stirring the mixture
and add no more copal till the former be incorpo-
rated with the oil. If the oil, in consequence of its
particular disposition, can take up three ounces of |
ECEIPT BOOK.

 it, add a little more; but stop if the liquid becomes
 nebulous; then leave the varnish at rest.   If it be
 too thick, dilute it with a little warm essence, after
 having  heated it in the balneum marise.   \\ hen
 cold, 'filter it through cotton, and preserve it in a
 clean bottle.
  This varnish has a good consistence,  and is as
 free from  colour as the  best alcoholic varnish.
 When extended in one stratum over smooth wood,
 which has undergone no preparation, it forms a
 very brilliant glazing, which, in the course of two
 days, in summer, acquires all the solidity that may
 be required.
  The facility which attends the preparation of this
 varnish by the new method here indicated, will ad-
 mit of its being  applied to all  coloured grounds
 which require solidity, pure whites excepted; paint-
 ed boxes, therefore, and all small articles, colour-
 ed or not coloured, where  it is required to make
 the veins appear in all the richness of their tones,
 call fcr the application of this varnish, which pro
 duces the most beautiful effect, and which is more
 durable than turpentine varnishes composed with
 other resinous substances.
              Fat amber varnish.
  Take of amber coarsely powdered, 16 oz. Venice
 turpentine, or gum lac, 2 do. prepared linseed oil,
 10 do. essence of turpentine, 15 or 16 do.
  The circumstances of the process are the same as
 those prescribed for the preparation  of  the cam-
 phorated copal varnish.
  1 nis varnish was formerly much used;  but it has
 given place, in part, to that  of copal, which is pre-
 ferred on account of its being less coloured.  Watin
 introduces more  essence  and less linseed oil; ex-
 perience and long practice are the only authority
 on which I recommend the adoption of the present
 formula.
     Amber1 varnish with essence of turpentine.
  Take of amber liquefied, and separated from the
 oily portions, which alter its consistence, 6 or 7 oz.
  Reduce the amber to powder, and if the  opera-
 tion of pounding forms it into a paste, break it with
 your fingers:  then mix it with  the  essence, and
 heat the whole in a balneum maris. It will speedily
 dissolve, and the essence will take up, at the least,
 a fourth part of its weight of the prepared amber.
  When one coating of it is applied to white smooth
 wood, but without any preparation, it forms a very
 pure and  very durable glazing,  which  speedily
 dries, but slower than copal varnish.
           Fat amber or copal varnish.
  Take of amber Or copal of one fusion, 4 oz. es-
 sence of turpentine, drying linseed oil, of each 10 oz.
  Put the  whole into a pretty large matrass,  and
 expose it to the heat of a balneum mariaj, or move
 it over the surface of  an  uncovered  chafing-dish,
 but without flame, and at the distance  from  it of
 two or three inches.  When the solution is com-
 pleted, add still a little copal or  amber to saturate
 the liquid; then pour the whole on a filter  prepar-
 ed  with cotton, and leave it to clarify by rest.  If
 the varnish is too thick, add a little warm  essence
 to prevent the separation of any of the amber.
  This, varnish  is coloured, but far less  so than
 those  composed  by the  usual  methods.   When
 spread over white wood, without any preparation,
 it forms a solid glazing, and communicates a slight
 tint to the wood.
  If it is required to charge this varnish with more
 copal, or prepared amber, the liquid must be com-
 posed of two parts of essence for one of oil.
            Compound mastic varnish.
   Take of pure  alcohol, 32 oz. purified mastic,  6
 oz. gum sandarac, 3 oz. very clear Venice turpen-
 tine, 3 oz. glass, coarsely pounded, 4 oz.
   Reduce the mastic and  sandarac to fine powder 
VARNISHES.
25
mix this powder witk /rhite glass, from which the
finest parts have beer separated by means of a hair
sieve;  put  all the ingredients with alcohol into a
short-necked matrass, and adapt  to  it a stick of
white wood, rounded at the end, and of a length
proportioned to the height of  the  matrass, that it
may be put in motion.  Expose the matrass in a
vessel filled with water, made at first a little warm,
and which must afterwards be maintained in a state
of ebullition  for one or two hours.  The matrass
may be made fast to a ring of stratr.
  When the solution seems to be sufficiently ex-
tended, add the turpentine, which must be  kept
separately in a phial or a pot,  and which must "be
melted, by immersing it  for  a moment in a bal-
neum marix.  The matrass must be still left in the
water for half an hour, at the end of which it is ta-
ken off; and  the  varnish is continually stirred till
it is somewhat cool.   Next day it is to be drawn
off, tnd filtered through cotton.   By  these means
it will become exceedingly limpid.
  The addition of glass may appear extraordinary;
but this substance divides the parts of the mixture,
which have been made with  the dry ingredients,
and it retains the same quality when  placed  over
the fire.  It therefore obviates with success two in-
conveniences, which are  exceedingly troublesome
to those who compose varnishes.  In the first place,
by dividing the matters, it facilitates the action of
the alcohol; and  in  the  second its weight, which
surpasses that of resins, prevents these resins from
adhering to the bottom of the matrass, and also the
coloration  acquired by the varnish when a sand-
bath is employed, as is commonly the  case.
  The application of this varnish is suited to arti-
cles belonging  to the toilette, such  as dressing-
boxes, cut-paper works, &c.   The following pos-
sess the same brilliancy and lustre; but they have
more solidity, and are exceedingly diying.
    Camphorated mastic varnish for paintings.
  Take of mastic, cleaned  and washed, 12 ounces,
pure turpentine, \\ oz. camphor, \ oz. white glass,
pounded, 5 oz.  ethereous essence of turpentine, 36
ounces.
  Make the varnish  according to the method indi-
cated for  Compound Mastic Varnish of the first
genus.  The camphor is employed in pieces, and
the turpentine is added when the solution of the
resin is completed.  But if the varnish is to be ap-
plied to old paintings, or paintings which have been
already varnished, the turpentine may be suppress-
ed, as this ingredient is here recommended only in
cases of a first  application to  new paintings, and
just freed from white of egg varnish.
  The ethereous essence recommended for varnish,
is that distilled slowly without any  intermediate
substance, according to the second process already
given for its  rectification.
  The question by able masters, respectingthe kind
of varnish proper to be employed for paintings, has
never yet been determined.
   Some artists, who have paid particular attention
to this object, make a mystery of the means they
employ to obtain the desired effect.  The real end
may be accomplished by giving to the varnish, des-
tined for painting, pliability and  softness, without
being too solicitous  in regard to what may add to
its consistence  or its solidity. The latter quality
is particularly requisite in varnishes which are to
be  applied to articles much  exposed to  friction,
such as boxes, furniture, &c.
       Shaw's mastic varnish for paintings.
  Bruise the mastic with a muller on  a painter's
stone, which will detect the  soft parts, or tears,
which are to be taken out, and the remainder put
into a clean bottle with good spirits of turpentine,
(twice distilled if you can get it) and dissolve the
       D
gum by shaking it in your hand for half an hour,
without heat.  When dissolved, strain it through
a piece of calico, and place it in a bottle well corked,
so that the light of the sun can strike it, for two
or three weeks, which will cause a mucilaginous.
precipitate, leaving the remainder as transparent
as water.  It may then be carefully decanted into
another bottle, and  put  by for use.   The propor-
tions of gum and alcohol are,  mastic, 6 oz. turpen-
tine, 14 oz.   If found on trial to be too thick, thin
it with turpentine.
           To make painter's cream.
  Painters, who have long intervals between their
periods of labour, are accustomed to cover the parts
they have painted with  a preparation which pre-
serves the freshness of the col( urs, and which they
can remove when they resume their work.  This
preparation is as follows:
  Take oi very  clear nut oil,  3  ounces, mastic  in
tears, pulverized, \ oz. sal saturni, in powder (ace-
tate of lead,) 1-3 of an  ounce.
  Dissolve the mastic in oil, over a gentle fire, and
pour the mixture into  a marble mortar, over the
pounded salt of lead; stir it with a wooden pestle,
and add water in small quantities, till the matter
assume the appearance and consistence  of cream,
and refuse to admit more water.
               Sandarac varnish.
  Take of gum  sandarac, 8 oz. pounded mastic, 2
oz. clear turpentine, 4 oz. pounded glass, 4 oz. al-
cohol, 32 oz.  Mix and dissolve as before.
          Compound sandarac varnish.
  Take of pounded copal of an amber colour, once
liquefied, 3 oz. gum sandarac, 6 oz. mastic, cleaned,
3 oz.  clear turpentine,  2| oz. pounded glass, 4 oz.
pure alcohol, 32 oz.   Mix these ingredients, and
pursue the same method as above.
  This varnish is  destined for articles  subject to
friction, such as furniture, chairs,fan-sticks, mould-
ings, &c. and even metals; to which it may be ap-
plied with success.  The sandarac gives it great
durability.
Camphorated sandarac varnish  for  cut-paper
          •works,  dressing-boxes, &c.
  Take of gum  sandarac, 6 oz. gum  elemi, 4 oz.
gum animi, 1 oz. camphor, £ oz. pounded glass, 4
oz. pure alcohol, 32 oz.
   Make the varnish according to the directions al-
ready given.  The soft resins must  be pounded
with the dry  bodies.  The  camphor is to be added
in pieces.
  Another.—Take of gallipot, or white  incense, 6
oz. gum animi, gum elemi,  each 2 oz. pounded
glass, 4 oz. alcohol, 32 oz.
   Make the varnish with the precautions indicated
for the compound mastic varnish.
   The two last varnishes are to be used for ceil-
ings and wainscots, coloured  or not coloured: they
may even be employed as a covering to parts paint-
ed with strong colours.
Sptritous sandarac varnish for -wainscotting small
   articles of furniture,  balustrades, and inside rail-
   ing.
   Take gum sandarac,  6 oz.  shell lac, 2 oz. colo-
phonium, or resin, white glass pounded, clear tur-
pentine, each 4 oz. pure alcohol, 32 oz.
  Dissolve the varnish according to the directions
given for compound mastic varnish.
   This varnish is sufficiently durable to be applied
to articles destined to daily and continual use. Var-
nishes composed with  copal  ought,  however,  in
these cases to be preferred.
   Another.—There is another composition which,
without forming part of the  compound  varnishes,
is employed with success for  giving a polish and
lustre to furniture made of wood:  wax  forms the
basis of it.
                                       C 
26
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
  Many cabinet-makers are contented with waxing
common furniture, such as tables, chests of drawers,
&c.  This covering, by means of repeated friction,
soon acquires a polish and transparency which re-
 -mble those of varnish.  Waxing seems to possess
qualities peculiar to itself; but,  like varnish, it is
attended with inconveniences as well as advantages.
  Varnish supplies better the  part of glazing; it
gives a lustre to the wood which it covers, and
heightens the colours of that destined, in particular,
for delicate articles.  These .-eal and valuable ad-
vantages are counterbalanced by its want of consis-
tence: it yields'too easily to the shrinking or swell-
ing of the wood, and rises in scales  or  splits, on
being exposed to the slightest shock.  These acci-
dents can be repaired only by new strata of varnish,
which render  application to the varnisher neces-
sary, and  occasion trouble and expense.
  Waxing stands shocks; but it does not possess,
in the  same degree  as  varnish, the property ol
giving lustre to the bodies on which it is applied,
and of heightening their tints.   The lustre it com-
municates is dull, but this inconvenience is com-
pensated  by the facility with which any accident
that may have altered its polish car be  repaired,
by rubbing it with a piece of fine cork.  There are
some circumstances, therefore, under which  the
application of wax ought to be preferred  to that of
varnish.   This seems to be the case in particular
with tables of  walnut-tree wood, exposed to daily
use, chairs, mouldings,  and for all small  articles
subject to constant employment.
  But asit is of importance to make the stratum of
wax as thin as possible in order that the veins of
the  wood may be more apparent, the  following
process will be acceptable to the reader.
  Melt over a moderate fire, in a  very clean ves-
sel, two ounces of white  or yellow  wax; and, when
liquefied,  add  four ounces of good essence  of tur-
pentine.  Stir the whole until it is entirely cool,
and the result will be a kind of pomade fit for wax-
ing furniture, and which must be rubbed over them
according to the  usual method.  The essence of
turpentine is soon dissipated; but the wax, which
by its mixture is  reduced to a state of very great
division, may be extended with more ease, and in
a more  uniform manner.   The essence soon pene-
trates the pores of the v/ood, calls forth the colour
of it. causes the wax to adhere better, and the lus-
tra which thence resrdts  is equal to that of varnish,
without having any of its inconveniences.
Coloured vaii'ush for violins, and other stringed in-
  struments, also for plum tree,  mahogany and
   rose-wood.
   Take gum sandarac, 4 oz. seed lac, 2 oz. mastic,
Benjamin in tears, each 1 oz. pounded glass, 4 oz.
Venice turpentine, 2 oz. pure alcohol, 32 oz.
   The gum sandarac and lac render this varnish
durable: it may be coloured with a little saffron or
dragon's blood.
                 French polish.
   The  varnish being  prepared,  (shell-lac)  the
article to be polished, being finished off as smooth-
ly as possible with glass-paper, and your rubber
being prepared as directed  below, proceed to the
operation as follows.  The varnish, in  a  narrow-
necked bottle, is to be applied to the middle of the
flat face of the rubber, by laying the rubber on the
mouth  of the bottle and shaking  up  the  varnish,
once ; as by this means the rubber will imbibe the
proper quantity to varnish a considerable extent of
 surface.  The rubber is then to be enclosed in a
 soft linen cloth, doubled ; the rest of the cloth be-
 in** gathered up at the back of the  rubber to form a
 handle.  Moisten the face of the linen with a little
 raw linseed  oil,  applied  with the  finger to the
 middle of it  Placingyour workopposite thelight,
pass your rubber quickly and lightly over its surface
until the varnish becomes dry, or nearly so—charge
your rubber as before with varnish, (omitting the
oil) and repeat the rubbing, until  three coats are
laid on, when  a little oil mav be applied to the rub-
ber, and two coats more  given to  it.  Proceeding
in this way, until  the varnish has acquired some
thickness, wet the inside of the linen cloth, before
applying the varnish, with  alcohol, and rub quick-
ly, lisjhtly and uniformly the whole surface.  Last-
ly, wet the linec cloth with a little oil and alcohol
without varnish, and rub as before till dry.
              To make the rubber.
  Roll up a strip of  thick woollen cloth which has
been torn off,  so as to form a soft elastic edge.   It
should form a coil, from one to three inches in di-
ameter according to the size of the work.
          Fat varnish of a gold colour.
  Take amber, 8 oz. gum lac, 2 oz. drying linseed
oil, 8 oz. essence of turpentine,  16 oz.
  Dissolve separately the gum lac, and then  add
the amber, prepared and pulverized, with  the  lin-
seed oil and essence very warm.   When the whole
has lost a part of its heat, mix, in relative  propor-
tions, tinctures of annatto, of terra merita, gum gut-
tee, and dragon's blood.   This varnish, when ap-
plied to white metals, gives them a gold colour.
Fat turpentine or golden varnish, being a mordaunl
            to gold and dark colours.
  Take boiled linseed oil, 16 oz. Venice turpen-
tine,  8 oz.  Naptes yellow, 5 oz.
  Heat the oil with  the  turpentine ; and  mix the
Naples yellow pulverized.
  Naples yellow is an oxide of lead, the composi-
tion of which  will be given when we come to treat
of colouring substances.  It is substituted here for
resins, on account of its drying qualities, and  in
particular of its colour,  which resembles that  of
gold ; great use is made  of the varnish in  applying
gold leaf.
  The yellow, however, may be omitted when this
species of  varnish is to be solid and coloured  co-
verings.  In this case an ounce of litharge to each
pound of composition may be  substituted in  its
stead, without this mixture doing any injury to the
colour which  is to constitute the ground, {la teinte
dure).
      To make turner's varnish for boxwood.
  Take seed lac, 5 oz. gum  sandarac, 2  oz. gum
elemi,  \\  oz. Venice turpentine, 2 oz.  pounded
glass, 5 oz. pure alcohol, 24 oz.
  [For a mode of bleaching seed or  shell-lac for
varnishes see  " Bleaching."—Am. Ed.]
  The  artists of St Claude do not all employ this
formula, which requires  to be corrected on account
of its too great dryness,  which is here lessened by
the turpentine and gum elemi.  This composition
is secured from cracking, which disfigures these
boxes after they have been used for some months.
  Another.—Other  turners employ the  gum lac
united to a little elemi and turpentine  digested
some months  in pure alcohol  exposed, to the sun.
If this  method be followed,  it will be proper to
substitute  for the  sandarac  the same quantity  of
gum lac reduced to powder, and not to add the tur-
pentine to the alcohol, which ought to be exceed-
ingly pure, till towards the end of the infusion.
   Solar infusion requires care and attention.  Ves-
sels of a sufficient size to allow the spirituous va-
pours to circulate freely ought to be employed, be-
cause it is necessary that the  vessels should  be
closely shut.   Without this precaution the spirits
would  become weakened, and abandon  the resin
which they laid hold of during the first day's expo-
 sure.  This perfect obituratioa will not  admit of
Uhe vessels being  too full.
   In general die varnishes applied to articles which 
VARNISHES.
27
may be put into the lathe acquire a great deal of
brilliancy by polishing, a piece of woollen cloth is
sufficient for the operation.   If turpentine predo-
minates too much in these compositions the polish
does not retain its lustre,  because the  heat  of the
hands  is capable of softening the  surface of the
varnish,  and in this state it readily tarnishes.
           To varnish dressing-boxes.
  The most of spirit of wine varnishes are destined
for covering preliminary preparations, which have
a certain  degree of lustre.   They  consist  of ce-
ment, coloured or not coloured, charged with land-
scapes and figures cut out in paper, which produces
an effect under the transparent varnish : most of
the dressing-boxes, and other small articles of the
same kind, are covered with this particular com-
position, which, in general,  consists  of  three or
four coatings of Spanish white pounded in  water,
and mixed up with parchment  glue.  The  first
coating is smoothed with pumice-stone, and then
polished with  a piece of new linen and water. The
coating in this state is fit to receive the  destined
colour, after it has been ground with water, and
mixed with parchment glue  diluted with  water.
The cut figures with which it is to be embellished,
are then applied,  and a  coating of gum  or fish-
glue is spread over them, to  prevent  the varnish
from penetrating to  the preparation, and from spoil-
ing the figures.   The operation is finished by ap-
plying three  or four coatings of varnish, which,
when dry, are polished with tripoli and water, by
means of a piece of cloth.  A lustre is then given
to the surface  with  starch and a bit of doe-skin, or
very soft cloth.
                Gallipot varnish.
  Take of gallipot, or white incense, 12 oz. white
glass, pounded, 5 oz. Venice turpentine,  2 oz. es-
sence of turpentine, 32 oz.   Make the varnish af-
ter the white incense has been pounded with the
glass.
  Some authors recommend mastic or sandarac in
the room  of gallipot; hut the varnish is neither
more beautiful nor  more durable.  When the co-
lour is ground with  the preceding  varnish, and
mixed up  with the latter, which, if too  thick,  is
thinned with a little essence, and which is applied
immediately,  and without any sizing, to boxes and
other  articles,  the  coatings  acquire  sufficient
strength to resist the blows of a mallet.  But if
the  varnish  be  applied to  a sized  colour,  it
must be covered with a varnish of the first or se-
cond genus.
         Varnish, for electrical purposes.
  Dissolve the best red sealing-wax in alcohol—
two or three coats will make a complete covering.
It may be applied to wood or  glass.
  Mastic gallipot varnish, for grinding colours.
  Take  of new gallipot, or white incense, 4 oz.
mastic,  2  oz. Venice turpentine, 6 oz.  pounded
glass, 4 oz. essence of turpentine, 32 oz.
  When the varnish is made with the  precautions
already indicated, add prepared nut oil or linseed
oil, two ounces.
  The matters ground with this varnish dry more
slowly; they are then mixed up with the following
varnish, if it be for common painting, or with par-
ticular  varnishes destined fci.* colours  and   for
grounds.
               Lacquer for brass.
  Take of seed lac, 6 oz. amber or copal, ground
on  porphyry,  2 oz.  dragon's blood, 40 grains, ex-
tract of red sandal wood, obtained by water, 30
  trains, oriental saffron, 36 grains, pounded glass,
  oz. very pure alcohol, 40 oz.
  To apply this varnish to articles or ornaments of
brass, expose  them to a gentle heat, and dip them
into varnish  Two or  three coatings may be ap-
plied in this manner, if necessary.  The varnish is
durable, and has a beautiful colour.  Articles var-
nished in this manner, may be cleaned with watei
and a bit of dry rag.
     Lacquer for philosophical instruments.
This lacquer or varnish is destined to change, or to
modify the colour of those bodies to which it is ap-
plied.
  Take of gum guttse, ^ oz. gum sandarac,  gum
elemi,  each 2 oz.  dragon's blood, of the best quali-
ty, 1 oz.  seed lac, 1 oz. terra merita, | oz. orien-
tal  saffron, 2 gr.  pounded glass, 3 oz.  pure alco-
hol, 20 oz.
  The tincture  of  saffron and of terra  merita is
first obtained by infusing them in alcohol for twen-
ty-four hours, or exposing them to the heat of the
sun in summer.  The tincture  must be  strained
through a piece of clean linen cloth, and ought to
be strongly squeezed.  This tincture is poured over
the dragon's blood, the  gum elemi, the seed lac,
and the gum guttse, all pounded and mixed  with
the glass.  The varnish is then made according to
the directions before given.
  It may be applied with great advantage to philo-
sophical instruments: the use of it might  be  ex
tended also to various cast or moulded articles with
which  furniture is ornamented.
  If the dragon's blood be of the first quality, it
may give too high a colour; in this case  the  dose
may be lessened at pleasure, as well as that of the
other colouring matters.
  It is with a similar kind of varnish that the art-
ists of  Geneva give a golden orange colour to the
small  nails employed to  ornament watch cases;
but they keep the process very secret. A beautiful
bright  cqlour might be  easily  communicated  to
this mixture; but they prefer the  orange colour
produced by certain compositions, the preparation
of which has no  relation to that of varnish, and
which  has been  successfully imitated with saline
mixtures, in which orpiment is  a principal ingre-
dient.   The nails are  heated before they are im-
mersed in the varnish, and they are  then spread
out on  sheets of dry paper.
Gold-coloured lacquer for brass watch cases, watch
                   keys, &c.
  Take of seed lac, 6 oz. amber, gum guttse, each
2 oz. extract of red sandal wood in water, 24 grains,
dragon's  blood,  60 grains, oriental  saffron,  36
grains, pounded glass,  4  oz. pure alcohol, 86 oz.
  Grind the amber, the seed lac, gum guttaj, and
dragon's  blood   on  a piece of porphyry;  then
mix them with the pounded glass, i.nd add the  al-
cohol,  after forming with it an infusion of the saf-
fron and an extract of the sandal wood.  The var-
nish must then be completed as before.  The me-
tal articles destined to be covered by this varnish
are heated, and those which will admit of it, are
immersed in packets. The tint of the varnish may
be varied by modifying the doses of the colouring
substances.
        Lacquer of a less drying quality.
  Take of seed  lac, 4 oz.  sandarac, or mastic, 4
oz. dragon's blood, $ oz. terra merita, gumguttae,
each 3C grains, pounded  glass, 5 oz. clear turpen-
tine, 2 oz. essence of turpentine, 32 oz.
  Extract by infusion the tincture of the colouring
substances, and then add the resinous bodies ac-
cording to the directions for compound mastic var-
nish.
  Lacquer or varnishes  of this kind are called
changing, because, when applied tp metals, such a
copper, brass,  or hammered tin,  or  to  wooden
boxes  and  other  furniture, they communicate  to
them a more agreeable colour.   Besides, by their
contact with  the  common  metals, they acquire a
lustre which approaches that of the precious me- 
S8
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
tals, and to which, in consequence of peculiar in-'
Irinsic qualities or  certain laws of convention, a
much greater value  is attached.  It is by means of
these changing varnishes,  that artists are  able to
communicate to their leaves  of silver and copper,
those shining colours observed in foils.  This pro-
duct of industry becomes a source of  prosperity to
the manufacturers of buttons and works  formed
with foil; which in the hands of the jeweller con-
tributes with so much success to produce that re-
flection of the rays of light which doubles the lus- I
treand sparkling quality of precious  stones.
  It is to varnish of this kind  that we are indebted
for the manufactory of gilt leather, which, taking
refuge in England, has given place to that of papier
machee, which is employed for the decoration of
palaces, theatres, &c.
  In the  last place, it is by the effect of a  foreign
tint, obtained from the colouring part  of  saffron,
that the scales of silver disseminated  in confection
d'hyacinthe reflect a beautiful gold colour.
  The colours transmitted by different colouring
substances, require  tones suited to the objects for
which they are destined.   The artist has it in his
own power to vary them  at pleasure,  by  the ad-
dition of annattoto the mixture of dragon's blood,
saffron, &c. or some changes in the doses of the
mode intended to be made in colours.  It is there-
fore impossible to give limited formulx.
       To make lacquers of various tints.
  There is one simple method by which artists
may be enabled to obtain all  the different tints they
require.  Infuse separately 4 ounces of gum  guttae
in 32 ounces of essence of turpentine, and 4 ounces
of dragon's blood, and an ounce of annatto also in
separate doses of essence.  These infusions may be
easily made in  the sun.  After fifteen days'  expo-
sure pour a certain quantity  of these liquors  into a
flask, and by varying the doses different shades of
colour will be obtained.
  These infusions maybe employed also for chang-
ing^ alcoholic varnishes;  but  in this case the use of
saffron, as well as that of red sandal  wood, which
does not  succeed with essence, will soon give the
tone necessary for imitatiag  with other tinctures
the colour of gold.
         Mordant varnish for gilding.
  Take of mastic, I ounce, gum sandarac, 1 do. gum
guttas, £ do. turpentine, \ do. essence of turpentine,
6 do.
  Some artists who  make use of mordants, substi-
tute for the turpentine an ounce of the essence of
 avender, which renders this composition still less
drying.
  In general, the composition of mordants admits
of modifications, according to the kind of work for
which they are destined. The application of them,
however, is confined chiefly  to gold.   When it is
required to fill up a design with gold leaf on any
ground whatever, the composition, which is to serve
as the means of union between the metal  and the
ground, ought to be neither too thick nor too fluid;
because both these  circumstances are equally in-
jurious to  delicacy in the strokes; it will be re-
quisite also that the composition  should  not dry
till the artist has completed his design.
                Other mordants.
   Some prepare their mordants  with Jew's pitch
and drying oil diluted with essence of  turpentine.
They employ it for gilding pale gold, or for bronz-
ing.
   Other  artists imitate the Chinese,  and mix with
their mordants colours proper for assisting the tone
which they are desirous of giving to the gold, such
as yellow, red, &c.
  Others employ merely fat varnish, to  which they
add a little red oxide of lead (minium).
  Others make use of thick glue,  in which  they
dissolve a little honey.  This is what they call hat-
ture.   When they are desirous of heightening the
colour of the gold, they employ this glue, to which
the gold leaf adheres exceedingly well.
  Another.—The qualities of the following are fit
for every kind of application,  and particularly to
metals.  Expose boiled oil to a strong heat in a
pan: when a black smoke is disengaged from  it,
set it on fire, and extinguish it a few moments aftei
by putting on the cover of the pan. Then pour the
matter still warm into a heated bottle, and  add to
it  a little essence of  turpentine.   This mordant
dries very speedily;  it has body and adheres to,
and strongly retains, gold  leaf,  when applied to
wood,  metals, and other substances.
To prepare a composition for  making colourea
  drawings and prints resemble paintings in oil.
  Take of Canada balsam, 1 ounce, spirit of tur-
pentine,  2 ounces: mix them together.   Before
this composition is applied, the drawing or print
should be sized with a solution of  isinglass in wa-
ter, and when dry, apply the varnish with a camel
hair brush.
          A varnish to colour baskets.
  Take either red, black, or white sealing wax,
which ever colour you wish to make: to every 2
ounces of sealing  wax, add  1 ounce of spirit of
wine:  pound the wax fine, then sift it  through a
fine lawn  sieve, till you have made it  extremely
fine; put  it into  a large phial  with the spirit of
wine,  shake it, let it stand near the fire 48 hours,
shaking  it often;  then,  with  a little,  brush the
baskets all over with it; let them dry, and do them
over a second time.
            To prepare anti-attrition.
  According to the specification of the patent, this
mixture consists of one hundred weight of plum-
bago,  to  four  hundred  of hog's lard, or other
grease; the two  to  be well  incorporated.  The
application is to prevent the effects of  friction in
all descriptions of engines or machires; and a suf-
ficient quantity must be rubbed over the surface of
the axle,  spindle, or other part where the bear-
ing is.
     Varnish for pales and coarse wood  -work.
   Take any quantity of tar, and grind it with as
much  Spanish brown as it will bear, without ren-
dering it too thick to be used as a paint or varnish,
and then spread it on the pales,  or other wood, as
soon as  convenient,  for it quickly hardens  by
keeping.
   This mixture must be laid on the wood to be
varnished by- a large  brush,  or house painter's
tool; and the work  should then be kept  as free
from dust and insects as possible,  till the  varnish
be thoroughly dry.  It will,  if laid on  smooth
wood, have a very good gloss, and  is an excellent  *
preservative of it  against moisture; on which ac-
count, as well as its being cheaper, it is far pre-
ferable to painting, not only for pales, but for wea-
ther boarding, and all other  kinds of  woodwork
for  grosser purposes.  Where  the glossy brown
colour is not liked, the work may be made of  a
greyish brown,  by mixing a  small proportion of
white lead, or whiting and ivory  black, with the
Spanish brown.
    A  black varnish for old straw or chip hats.
   Take  of best black sealing wax, ^ an ounce,
rectified spirit of wine, 2 ounces; powder the seal-
ing wax,  and put it with the spirit of wine, into  a
four ounce phial;  digest them in a sand heat, oi
near a fire, till the  wax  is dissolved; lay  it on
warm with a fine soft hair-brush,  before a fire or
in the sun.  It gives a good stiffness to old straw
hats, and a beautiful gloss, equal  to new,  had re-
sists wet. 
To paint sail cloth, &c. so as to be pliant, durable,
            and impervious to -water.
  This  process,  which is  extracted  from  the
Transactions of the Society of Arts, is now uni-
versally practised in the public dock-yards.
   The paint usually laid upon canvas hardens to
such a degree as to crack, and eventually to break
the canvas,  which renders  it unserviceable  in a
short time:  but the canvas painted in the  new
manner is so superior,  that all canvas used in the
navy is thus prepared;  and a saving of a guinea is
made in every one hundred square yards  of  can-
vas so painted.
  The old mode of painting canvas was  to wet
the canvas,  and prime it  with  Spanish  brown;
then to give  it a second coat of a chocolate colour,
made by mixing Spauish brown and black paint;
and, lastly, to finish it  with black.
   The new  method is to grind  96 lbs. of English
ochre with boiled oil,  ard to add 16 lbs. of black
paint,  which mixture  forms an indifferent black.
A pound of  yellow soap, dissolved in 6 pints of wa-
ter over the fire, is  mixed, while hot, with the
paint. This composition is then laid upon the can-
vas (without being wetted, as in the usual way,)
as stiff a ^ can conveniently be done with the brush,
so as to form a  smooth surface; the  next  day,  or
still better,  on the second  day,  a second coat of
ochre and black (without any, or but a very small
portion of soap) is laid on,  and allowing this coat
an intermediate day for drying, the canvas is  then
finished with black paint as usual.   Three  days
being then  allowed  for it to dry and  harden, it
does  not  stick  together when taken down, and
folded in  cloths containing 60 or 70 yards each;
and canvas finished entirely  with the composition,
leaving it to dry one day between each coat, will
not stick together, if laid in quantities.
   It has been ascertained from actual trials, that
the solution of yellow soap is a preservative to red,
yellow, and  black paints, when ground  in oil and
put into casks,  as they acquire  no improper hard-
ness, and dry in a remarkable  manner  when laid
on with the  brush, without the use  of the usual
drying articles.
  It is surprising that the adoption of soap, which
is so well known to be  miscible withoily substan-
ces, or at least, the alkali of which it is composed,
has not already been brought into use in the com-
position of oil colours.
Coloured composition for rendering linen and cloth
             impenetrable to water.
   Begin by  washing the stuff with hot water;  then
dry and rub it between the  hands until such  time
as'it becomes perfectly supple; afterwards  spread
it out by drawing it into a frame,  and give it,  with
the aid of a  brush, a first coat composed of a mix-
ture of 8 quarts of boiling linseed oil, 15 grammes
of calcined amber and  acetate of lead, (of each 7£
  Crammes) to  which add 90 grammes of lamp-
  lack.  For the second coat use the same ingre-
dients as above, except the calx of lead.  This coat
will give a few hours,  according to the season; af-
terwards take a dry plaisterer's brush, and rub the
stuff strongly with it, when the hair, by this opera-
tion,  will become very smooth.  The third and
last coat will give a perfect and durable  jet black.
   Or rather, take 12 quarts of boiling linseed oil,
30 grammes of amber, 15 grammes of acetate of
lead, 7£ sulphate of zinc,  15 Prussian blue, and
7£ verdigris; mix them very fine with a little oil,
and add 120 grammes of lamp-black.  These coats
are used at discretion,  as is done with painting.—
Annales del'Indus, 1821.
To thicken  linen cloth for screens and bed testers.
   Grind whiting  with zinc, and to prevent  its
cracking, add a little honey to  it; then  take a soft
SHES.                                       29

brush, and lay it upon the cloth, and so do two or
three times,  suffering it the meanwhile to dry be-
tween layings on,  and for the last laying, smooth
it over with Spanish  white, ground with linseed
oil,  the  oil being  first heated, and mixed with a
small quantity of the litharge of gold, the better to
endure the weather, and so it will be lasting.
        Common -wax, or varnished cloth.
  The manufacture of this kind  of cloth is very
simple.  The cloth and linseed oil are the prin:i-
pal articles required for the establishment.   Com-
mon canvas,  of an  open and coarse texture,  is ex-
tended on large  frames,  placed under sheds, the
sides of which are open, so as to afford a free pas-
sage to  the external air.  The manner  in  which
the cloth is fastened to these frames is as follows
it is  fixed to each side of the  frame by  hoois-
which catch the edge of the cloth, and by pieces
of strong packthread passing  through  holes  at the
other extremity of the hooks, which are tied round
moveable pegs placed in the  lower edge of the
frame.  The mechanism by which the strings of a
violin are stretched orunstretched, will give some
idea of the arrangement of the pegs employed for
extending  the cloth in this apparatus.   By these
means the cloth can be easily stretched or relaxed,
when the oily varnish  has exercised an  action on
its texture in tne course of  the  operation.   The
whole being thus arranged,  a  liquid paste made
with drying oil,  which may be varied at pleasure,
is applied to the cloth.
      To make liquid paste -with drying oil.
  Mix Spanish white or tobacco-pipe clay, or any
other argillaceous matter, with water, and leave it
at rest some hours,  which will be sufficient to sepa-
rate the argillaceous parts, and to produce a sedi-
ment.   Stir the sediment with a  broom, to com-
plete the division of the earth ;  and  after it has
rested some seconds,  decant the turbid water into
an earthen or wooden vessel.   By this process the
earth will  be separated  from the sand and othef
foreign bodies, which  are precipitated, and which
must be thrown away.   If the earth has  been
washed by the same process, on a large scale, it is
divided by kneading it.  The supernatant water il
thrown aside, and  the sediment placed  in sieves,
on pieces of cloth, where it is suffered to drain: it
is then mixed up  with  oil  rendered drying by a
large dose of litharge, that is about a fourth  of the
weight of the oil.   The consistence of thin paste
being given to the  mixture,  it is spread over the
cloth by means of an iron spatula, the length oi
which is equal to that  of the breadth of the  cloth;
This spatula  performs the  part  of a  knife, and
pushes  forward the  excess of matter above  the
quantity sufficient to cover the cloth.  When the
first stratum is dry, a second is applied.   The ine-
qualities produced by the coarseness of the  cloth,
or  by  an  unequal extension  of  the paste,  are
smoothed down with pumice-stone. The pumice-
stone is reduced to  powder, and rubbed  over the
cloth with  a piece of soft serge or cork dipped in
water.  The cloth  must then be well washed  in
water to clean it;  and after it is dried, a varnish ol
gum lac dissolved in linseed  oil boiled with tur-
pentine, is to be applied to it.
  This  preparation produces yellowish varnished
cloth.  When wanted  black, mix lamp-black with
the Spanish  white, or tobacco-pipe clay, which
forms  the  basis  of the liquid paste.   Various
shades of grey may be obtained, according to the
quantity of lamp-black which is added.   Umber,
Cologne  earth, and different ochry argillaceous
earths,  may  be used  to  vary  the tints,  without
causing any addition to the expense.
    To prepare fine printed varnished cloths.
  The process thus described  for manufacturing
                                     C 2
II! 
30                            UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 common Varnished and polished cloths,  may serve
 o give some  idea of that employed for making
 fine cloths of  the same kind, decorated with a co-
 loured impression.  The manufactories of Ger-
 many  have  varnished  cloths  embellished with
 large and small subjects, figures, and landscapes,
 well  executed,  and  which arevdestined for cover-
 ing furniture subjected to daily  use.
  This process, which is only  an improvement of
 tne former, requires a finer paste, and cloth of a
 more  delicate texture.  The stratum of paste is
 applied in the same manner,   and when dry and
 polished, the cloth is taken from the frame and re-
 moved to the painter's table, where the art of the
 colourist and  designer is displayed under a thou-
 sand forms; and, as in that of printed cottons, ex-
 hibits  a richness of tints,  a;.d a distribution of sub-
jects, which discover taste, and  insure a ready sale
 for the articles manufactured.
  The processes, however, employed in these two j
 arts to extract the colouring parts are not the same.
 In the art of cotton-printing the colours are ex-
 tracted by the  bath, as in that of dyeing.  In print-
 ing varnished  cloths, the colouring parts are the
 result  of the union of drying oil mixed with var-
nish;  and the different colours employed  in  oil
painting or painting in varnish.
  The varnish applied to common oil cloth is com-
posed of gum lac and drying linseed oil; but that
destined  for  printed varnished  cloths  requires
some choice, both in regard  to the oil and the re-
sinous matter  which gives  it  consistence.   Pre-
pared  oil of pinks and copal form a varnish very
little coloured, pliable, and solid.
           To prepare varnished silk.
  Varnished  silk,  for making umbrellas, capots,
coverings  for  hats, Sec.  is prepared in  the same
manner as the  varnished and polished  cloths  al-
ready described, but with  some  variation in the
liquid  paste or varnish.
  If the  surface of the silk be pretty large, it  is
made fast to a  wooden frame furnished with hooks
:.nd moveable pegs, such as that used in the manu-
facture of common varnished cloths.  A soft paste,
composed of linseed oil boiled  with a fourth part
of litharge; tobacco  pipe clay,  dried and  sifted
through a silk-sieve,  16 parts; litharge ground on
porphyry with water, dried and sifted in the same
manner,  3  parts; and lamp-black, 1 part.  This
paste  is then  spread in  a uniform manner over
the surface of  the silk, by/means of a long knife,
having a handle at each extremity.  In summer,
f wenty-four hours are sufficient for its desiccation.
When dry, the knots produced  by the inequalities
of the silk are smoothed with pumice-stone.  This
operation  is performed  with  water,  and when
finished,  the  surface of the  silk is washed.  It is
then suffered to dry,  and flat copal varnish is ap-
plied.
  If it be intended to polish this varnish, ap dy  a
second stratum; after which polish it with m ball
of cloth and very fine tripoli.  The varnishe t silk I
thus made, is very black, exceedingly pliable, and
 has a fine polish.  It may be rumpled a th  usand
 ways without retaining any fold, or even tu-2 mark
 of one.  It  is light, and thereby proper for  2over-
 ings to hats,  and  for making  cloaks and caps so
 useful to travellers in wet weather.
  Another  method.—A kind  of varnished silk,
 which lias only a yellowish colour, and which suf-
 fers the texture of the stuff to appear, is prepared
 with a mixture of 3 parts boiled oil of pinks, and 1
 part of fat copal varnish,  which  is extended with a
 coarse brush or knife.   Two strata are sufficient
 when oil has been freed from its greasy particles
 over a slow fire, or when boiled with a fourth part
 of its weight of litharge.
   The inequalities are  removed  by pumice-stone
and water; after which the copal varnish is applied.
This simple operation gives to white silk a yellow
colour,  which arises from the boiled  oil and the
varnish.
   This varnished silk possesses all those qualities
ascribed to certain preparations of silk which are
recommended to be worn as jackets  by persons
subject to rheumatism.
          To prepaid -water proof boots.
   Boots  and shoes may  be rendered impervious to
water by the following composition.—'Pake 3 oz.
of spermaceti,  and melt it in a pipkin, or other
earthen vessel,  over  a  slow  fire: add  thereto six
drachms of Indian rubber, cut into slices, and these
will presently dissolve.  Then add, seriatim, of tal-
low, 8 ounces; hog's lard, 2 ounces;  amber  var
nish, 4 ounces.   Mix, and it will  be fit for use im
mediately.  The boots or  other material  to be
treated, are to receive two or three coats, with &
common blacking brush, and a fine polish is the
result.
To make leat/ier and other articles water procf-
                    Patent.
   Dissolve ten pounds of Indian  rubber, cut  into
bits, the smaller the better,  in twenty gallons ol
pure spirits  of  turpentine,  by putting them to-
gether into a tin vessel that will hold forty gallons.
This vessel is to be immersed in  cold water, con-
tained in a boiler, to which fire is to be applied so
as to make the water boil,  occasionally supplying
what is lost by evaporation.   Here it is to remain
until a perfect solution of the caoutchouc  in the
turpentine is obtained.  One  hundred  and fifty
pounds of pure bees wax are now to be dissolved in
one hundred gallons of pure spirits of turpentine,
to which  add twenty pounds of  Burgundy pitch
and ten pounds of gum  frankincense.   The solu-
tion to be obtained as directed for the caoutchouc.
Mix the two solutions, and, when cold, add ten  gal-
lons of copal varnish, and put the whole into a re-
servoir,  diluting  it with one hundred  gallons of
lime water, five gallons at a time,  and stirring it
well up for six or eight hours in succession,  which
stirring must be repeated when any of the compo-
sition is taken out.   If it is wanted black, mix 20
pounds of lamp-black w.ith  20 gallons of turpen-
tine, (which 20 gallons should  be  deducted from
the quantity previously employed) and add it pre-
viously to putting in the lime water.
   To use it, lay  it  onsthe leather with a painter's
brush,  and rub it in.
             To  make black japan.
   Take  of boiled oil, 1 gallon, umber, 8 oz. as-
phaltum,  3 oz.  oil of turpentine,  as much as will
reduce it to the thinness required.
               To preserve tiles.
   \fter the adoption of glazing,  varnishing,  &c.
to increase the hardness of tiles, tarring has been
found completely to stop their pores,  and to ren-
der them impervious to  water.  The  process is
practicable,  and  not  expensive.   Lime and  tar,
whale oil or dregs of oil,  are equally  adapted to
the purpose,  and still cheaper.   Tarring is" parti-
cularly efficacious when tiles are cracked by  the
frost.   It is calculated, that the expense of coal tar
for a roof of a middling extent, and supposing such
a roof to require  one hundred weight,  would  not
exceed two guineas.
           To bronze plaster figures.
   For the ground, after it has been sized and rub-
bed down, take Prussian blue, verditer, and spruce
ochre.   Grind thein  separately in water, turpen-
tine, or oil, according to the work, and mix them
in such proportions as will produce the  colour de-
sired.  Then grind  Dutch metal in a part of  this
composition-  laying it with judgment on the pro- 
VARNISHES.
31
mment parts of the figure, whicn ptoduces a grand
effect.
          To polish varnished furniture.
  Take two ounce* of tripoli powdered, put it in
an earthen pot, with water to cover it; then take a
piece of white flannel,  lay it over a piece of cork
or rubber, and proceed to polish the varnish, al-
ways wetting it with the tripoli and water.  It will
be known when the  process is finished by wiping
a part of  the work with a  sponge, and observing
whether there is a fair even gloss.   When this is
the case, take a bit of mutton suet and fine flour,
and clean the work.
                 To polish wood.
  Take a piece  of pumice  stone, and water, and
pass regularly  over  the work until the  rising of
the grain  is cut down;  then take powdered tripoli
and boiled linseed oil,  and polish the work to a
bright surface.
     To polish brass ornaments inlaid in wood.
  File the brass very  clean with a  smooth file;
then  take some tripoli powdered very fine, and
mix it with the linseed oil.  Dip in this a rubber
of hat, with which polish the work until the de-
sired effect is obtained.
  If the work is ebony, or black rose wood,  take I
some elder coal powdered very fine, and apply it
dry after you have done with the  tripoli,  and it
will produce a superior polish.
  The French mode  of ornamenting with brass
differs widely from ours; theirs being chiefly wa-
ter-gilt [ormoulu'j, excepting the flutes of columns,
&c. which are polished very high with rotten stone,
»nd finished with elder coal.
             To brown gun barrels.
  After the barrel is finished rub it over with aqua
fortis, or  spirit of salt, diluted with water.   Then
lay it by for a week,  till a complete coat of oil is
formed.   A  little oil  is then to be applied, and
after rubbing the  surface dry, polish it with ahard
brush and a little bees' wax.
              To make blacking.
  Take of ivory black and treacle,  each 12 oz.
spermaceti oil, 4 oz. white wine vinegar, 4 pints.
  Mix.   This  blacking,  recommended  by Mr
Gray, lecturer on the materia medica, is superior
in giving leather  a finer polish  than any of those
that are advertised, as they all  contain sulphuric
acid, (oil  of vitriol,) which  is necessary to give it
the polishing quality, but it renders leather rotten,
and very liable to crack.
           To make liquid  blacking.
  Take of vinegar, No. 18, (the common,) 1 quart,
ivory-black,  and  treacle, each 6 oz. vitriolic acid,
and spermaceti, (or common oil,) each 1$ oz.
  Mix the acid and  oil first, afterwards add the
other ingredients; if, when it is  used, it  does not
dry quick enough on the leather, add a little more
of the vitriol, a little at a time, till it dries quick
enough.   When there is too much of the vitriolic
acid, which is various  in its strength, the mixture
will give it a brown colour.
  N.B. Vinegar  is sold by  numbers, viz. No. 18
(the weakest), 19, 20, 21,  22.   The celebrated
blacking is made with No. 18.  When this mixture
is properly finished, the ivory-black will be about
one-third  the contents of the bottle.
To make Bailey's composition for blacking cakes.
  Take gum  tragacanth, one ounce; neat's foot oil,
superfine  ivory-black,  deep  blue,  prepared from
iron and  copper,  each two  ounces;  brown sugar
candy, liver water, each four ounces. Having mix-
ed  well  these ingredients, evaporate the water,
and form  your cakes.
        To make blacking balls for shoes.
  Take mutton   suet,  4 ounces; bees' wax, one
ounce; sweet oil, one ounce; sugar candy and gum-
 arabic, one drachm each, in fine  powder: melt
 these well together over  a gentle  fire,  and add
 thereto about a spoonful of turpentine, and lamp-
 black sufficient to  give it a good  black  colour.
 While hot enough to run,  make it into a ball, by
" pouring the liquor into a tin mould;  or let it  stand
 till almost cold: or it may be moulded by the hand.
        _ To make liquid japan blacking.
   Take 3  ounces of ivory-black, 2 oz. of coarse
 sugar, one ounce  of sulphuric acid,  one  ounce of
 muriatic acid, one table-spoonful of sweet oil and
 lemon acid, and one pint of vinegar. First mix the
 ivory-black and sweet oil together, then the lemon
 and sugar, with a little vinegar, to qualify the black
 ing; then add the sulphuric and muriatic acids, and
 mix them all well together.
   Observation.  The sugar, oil,  and vinegar pre-
 vent the acids from injuring the leather,  and add
 to the lustre of the blacking.
   A cheap method.—Ivory-black, 2  ounces; brown
 sugar, one ounce and a half; and sweet oil, half a
 table-spoonful.  Mix them well, and then gradually
 add half a pint of small beer.
   Another method.—A quarter of a pound of ivory-
 black, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, a table-
 spoonful of flour,  a piece of tallow  about  the size
 of a walnut, and a  small piece of gum-arabic.
 Make a paste of the flour, and whilst hot, put in
 the tallow, then the sugar, and afterwarda mix the
 whole well together in a quart of water.
          To render leather water proof.
   This is  done by rubbing or brushing  into the
 leather a mixture  of drying ails, and any of the ox.
 ides or calxes of lead, copper, or iron; or by sub-
 stituting any of the gummy resins, in the room of
 the metallic oxides.—Repertory, vol. x.
     To make varnish for coloured drawings.
 ,  Take of Canada balsam one ounce, spirit of tur-
 pentine, two ounces.  Mix them together. Before
 this composition is applied, the draw' 'g  or  print
 should be  sized with a solution of isinglass in wa-
 ter; and when dry, apply the varnish with a camel's-
 hair brush.
             To make furniture paste.
   Scrape four ounces of bees'  wax into a basin, and
 add as  much oil  of turpentine as will moisten it
 through.   Now powder a  quarter of an ounce of
 resin, and add as much Indian red as will bring it
 to a deep mahogany colour.   When the composi-
 tion is properly stirred up, it will prove an excel-
 lent cement or paste for blemishes in mahogany,
 and other  furniture.
   Another method.—Scrape four ounces  of  bees'
 wax as before.  To a pint of oil of turpentine, in a
 glazed pipkin, add an ounce of alkanet-root.   Co-
 ver it close, and put it over a  slow  fire, attending
 it carefully that it may not boil over, or catch fire.
 When the liquid is of a deep  red, add as much of
 it to the wax as will  moisten it through, also i
 quarter of an ounce of powdered resin.  Cover the
 whole close, and let it stand six hours, when it will
 be fit for use.
              To make furniture oil.
   Take linseed-oil,  put it  into a glazed pipkin
 with as much alkanet-root as it will cover.  Let it
 boil gently, and it will become of a strong red co-
 lour: when cool it will be fit for use.
 To make wash for preserving drawings made with
               a black lead pencil.
   A thin wash of isinglass will fix  either black
 lead, or hard black chalk,  so  as  to  prevent  their
 rubbing out; or the  same effect may be produced
 by the simple application of skimmed milk, as has
 been proved by frequent trials.  The best way of
 using the  latter is to lay the drawing flat upon the
 surface of the milk;  and then taking it up by one
 corner till  it drains and dries.   The milk  must bo 
32
HTCVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 perfectly free from cream, or it  #11 grease the pa-
 per.
 To make varnish for wood, wk ;h resists the action
                 of boiling water.
   Take a pound and a half of linseed-oil, and boil
 it in a red copper vessel, not t:nned. holding sus-
 pended  over it, in a small linen bag, five ounces of
 litharge, and three ounces of pulverized minium;
 taking care that the bag  does not touch the bottom
 of the vessel.  Continue  the ebullition until the oil
 acquires a deep brown colour; then take away the
 bag,  and substitute another in its place, containing
 a clove  of garlic; continue the ebullition, and re-
 new the clove of garlic  seven or eight times, or
 rather put them all in at once.
   Then throw into the  vessel a pound  of yellow
 amber,  after having melted it in the following man-
 ner:—Add to the pound of amber,  well pulveriz-
 ed, two ounces of linseed-oil, and place the  whole
 on a strong fire.   When the fusion is  complete,
 pour it  boiling into the  prepared linseed-oil, and
 continue to leave it boiling for two or three minutes,
 stirring the whole up well. It is then left to  settle;
 the composition  is decanted and preserved,  when
 it becomes cold,  in well  corked bottles.
   After  polishing the wood on which this varnish is
 to be applied, you give to the wood the colour re-
 quired; for instance, for walnut  wood, a  slight
 coat of  j mixture of soot with the essence of tur-
 pentine.  When  this colour is perfectly dry, give
 it a coat  of varnish with a fine sponge, in order to
 spread it very equal; repeat these coats four times,
 taking care always to let  the preceding  coat be
 dried.—Annales  del'Industrie, 1821.
 To restore the blackness  of old leather cjiairs, &c.
   Many families, especially in the country, pos-
 sess chairs, settees, &c. covered with black leather:
 these, impaired by long use, may be restored near-
 ly to their original good colour and gloss by the
 following easy and approved process:—Take two
 yolks of new laid eggs, anu the white of one.  Let
 these be well beaten up,  and then shaken in a glass
 vessel or jug, to become like thick oil; dissolve in
 about a table-spoonful or less of geneva, an ordi-
 nary tea-lump of loaf-sugar; make this thick with
 ivory black, well worked  up with a bit of stick;
 mix with the  egg for use.   Let this be laid  on as
 blacking ordinarily is for  shoes; after a very few
 minutes polish with  a soft, very clean  brush, till
 completely dry and shining,  then let it remain a
 day to harden.
   The same process answers admirably for ladies'
 cordovan, or gentlemen's dress-shoes, but with the
 following  addition for  protecting the stockings
 from soil.  Let the white or glaire of eggs be  shak-
 en in a large glass phial  until it becomes a perfect
 qil; brush over the inner edges of the shoes with
 it, and  when  completely dry, it  will prevent all
 soiling from the leather.  This requires to  be re-
 peated.
            To polish and soften ivory.
   This article .s  polished with putty and water, by
 means of a rubber, made of hat, which, in a short
 time, produces a fine gloss.  The following direc-
 tions are given to soften ivory.  Let it  stand in a
. warm place 48 hours, and you will be able to bend
 the ivory in any form.
       To varnish drawings and card work.
   Boil some clear parchment cuttings in water, in
 •a glazed pipkin,  till they produce a very clear size.
 Strain it and keep it for use.
   Give the work two coats of the size, passing the
 brush quickly over the work, not to disturb the co-
 lours.
           To make turpentine varnish.
   Mix  one gallon of oil  of turpentine,  and five
 pounds of powdered resin; put it in a tin can, on a
 stove, and let It boil for half an hour.   When cool
 it is fit for use.
       .To make varnishes for violins, &c
   To a gallon of rectified  spirit of wine, add six
 ounces of gum sandarac, three ounces of gum mas-
 tic, and half a pint of turpentine varnish.  Put the
 whole into a tin can, which keep in a warm place,
 frequently shaking it, for twelve  days, until it is
 dissolved.  Then strain and keep  it for use.
        To varnish harps and dulcimers.
   Prepare the work with size and red ochre; then
 take  ochre,  burnt  umber, and  red  lead,  well
 ground, and mix up a dark brown colour in tur-
 pentine varnish, adding so much oil  of turpentine
 that the  brush  may just be able to pass over the
 work fair and even.  While yet wet, take a muslin
 sieve,  and sift as  much  Dutch metal,  previously
 powdered, upon it as is requisite to produce the ef-
 fect, after which varnish  and polish it.
            To preserve steel goods.
   Mr Aikin recommends  a thin coating of caout-
 chouc as an excellent preservative of iron and steel
 articles from the action of the air and moisture; its
 unalterability, consistence when heated, adhesion
 to iron and steel, and facility of removal, render it
 an admirable substance for this purpose.
  The caoutchouc is to be  melted in a close vessel,
 that it may not inflame.  It will require nearly the
 temperature of fusing lead, and must be stirred to
 prevent burning.
  Mr Parkins, to whom  Mr Aikin communicated
 this process, has made much use of it in his blocks,
 plates, dies, &sc.   He mixes some oil  of turpen-
 tine with the caoutchouc, which renders it  easily
applicable, and leaves the substance, when dry, as
a firm varnish, impermeable to moisture.   This,
when required, may easily be removed by a soft
brush dipped in warm oil of turpentine.
       To prepare oil for watch-work, &c.
  Oil used for diminishing frictions in delicate
machinery, should be free from all acids and mu-
cilage.
  Put into a matrass or  glass flask, a portion of
any fine oil, with seven or  eight times  its  weight
of alcohol, and heat the mixture almost to boiling,
 decant the clear upper stratum of fluid, and suffer
 it to cool; a solid portion of fatty matter separates
 which is to be removed, and then the alcoholic so-
 lution evaporated in a retort or basin, until redu-
 ced to one-fifth of  its bulk.  The fluid part of the
 oil will be deposited. rt should be colourless and
 tasteless,  almost free from smell, without action
 on infusion of litmus, having the consistence of
 white olive oil, and not easily congealable.—Jour-
 nal of Science, 1822.
             To make papier mache.
  This is a substance made of cuttings of white or
 brown paper, boiled in water, and beaten in a mor-
 tar till they are reduced into a kind of paste, and
 then boiled with a solution of gum  arabic, or of
 size, to give tenacity to the paste,  which is after-
 wards formed into different toys, Sic. by pressing
 it into oiled moulds.  Whtn dry,  it is  done over
 with a mixture of size and  lamp-black, and after-
 wards varnished.  The black varnish for these toys,
 according to Dr Lewis,  is prepared as follows :
 Some colophony, ar turpentine, boiled down till it
 becomes black and friable, is melted in a glazed
 earthen vessel, and thrice as much amber iu fine
 powder sprinkled in by degrees, with the addition
 of a little  spirit or oil of turpentine now and then.
 when the  amber is melted, sprinkle  in the same
 quantity of sarcocolla, continuing to stir them, and
 to add more spirit of turpentine, till the whole be-
 comes fluid ; then strain out the clear through a
 coarse hair bag, pressing it gently  between hot
 boards.  This varnish, mixed with ivory-black in 
VARNISHES.
35
fine powder, is applied, in a hot room, on the dri-
ed paper paste; which is then set in a gently heat-
ed oven, next day in a hotter oven, and the third
day in a very hot one, and let stand each time till
the oven grows cold.  The paste thus varnished is
hard, durable,  glossy, and bears liquors hot or
co}d.
               To varnish glass..
  Pulverize a quantity of gum adragant, and let it
dissolve for twenty-four hours in the white of eggs
well beat up ; then rub it gently on the glass with
a brush.
To apply copal varnish to the reparation of opake
                    enamels.
  The properties manifested by these varnishes,
and which render them proper for supplying the
vitreous and transparent coating  of enamel,  by a
covering equally brilliant, but  more solid, and
which adheres to  vitreous compositions, and to
metallic surfaces, admit of their  being applied to
other purposes besides those here enumerated.
  By slight  modifications they may be used also
for the reparation of opake enamel which has been
fractured.  These kinds of enamel admit the use
of cements coloured throughout, or only superfi-
cially, by copal varnish   charged  with colouring
parts.  On this account they must be attended with
less difficulty in the reparation than transparent
enamel, because they do not require the same re-
flection of the light.   Compositions of paste, there-
fore, the different grounds of  which may always
harmonize with the colour-. .'-* ground of the pieces
to be  repaired,  and which may be still strengthen-
ed by the same tint introduced into the solid var-
nish,  with which  the articles are glazed, will an-
swer the views  of the artist in a wonderful  man-
ner.
  The bise of the cement ought to be pure  clay
without colour, and exceedingly dry.  If solidity
be required, ceruse is the only substance that can
be  substituted  in  its place.  D-ying oil of pinks
will form an excellent excipient, and the consist-
ence of the cement ought  to be such that it can be
easily extended by a knife or spatula, possessed of
a moderate degree of flexibility.  This sort of paste
soon dries.   It  has the advantage also of presenting
to the colours, applied to it with a brush, a kind
of ground which contributes to their solidity.  The
compound  mastic  being  exceedingly drying, the
application of  it will be  proper in cases  where
speedy reparation, of the damaged articles is re-
quired.
  In more urgent cases, the paste may he compos-
ed with ceruse, and the turpentine copal varnishes;
which dries more speedily than oil of pinks ; and
the colours  may then be glazed  with the ethereal
copal varnish.
  The application  of the paste will be necessary
only in cases when the accident, which has hap-
pened to the enamel, leaves too great a vacuity to
oe filled up by  several strata, of coloured varnish.
But in all cases, the varnish ought to he well dri-
ed, that it may acquire its full' lustre by polish-
ing.
         To make white copal varnish.
  White oxide of lead,  ceruse, Spanish white,
white clay.   Such of these substances as are pre-
ferred ought to be  carefully  dried.   Ceruse a.:d
clay  obstinately retain a great deal of humidity,
which would oppose their adhesion to drying oil
or varnish.   The cement then crumbles under the
fingers, and does not assume a body.
  Another.*—On 16 ounces of melted copal, pour 4,
6, or 8 ounces of linseed oil boiled, and quite free
from g.ease.   When well mixed by repeated stir-
rings, and after they are pretty cool, pour in 16
ounces  of  the  essence   of Venice  turpentine.
      E
 Pass the varnish through a cloth.   Amber varnish
 is made, the same way.
           To make black copal varnish.
    Lamp-black, made of burnt vine twigs, black of
 peach-stones.   The lamp-black must be carefully
 washed and afterwards dried.  Washing carries off
 a great many of its impurities.
           To make yellow copal varnish.
    Yellow oxide of lead of Naples and Montpellier,
 both reduced to impalpable powder..   These yel-
 lows are hurt by the contact of iron and steel; in
 mixing them up, therefore, a horn spatula  with a
 glass mortar and pestle must be employed.
    Gum guttse,  yellow  ochre, or Dutch pink, ac-
 cording to the nature and tone of the colour to  be
 imitated.
            To make blue copal varnish.
    Indigo, prussiate of iron, (Prussian blue) blue
 verditer, and ultra marine. All  these substances
 must be very much divided.
           To make green copal varnish.
    Verdigris,  crystallized  verdigris,  compound
 greeh, (a mixture of yellow and blue).  The first
 two require a mixture  of white in proper propor-
 tions, from a fourth to  two-thirds, according to the
 tint intended to be given.   The white used for this
 purpose is ceruse,  or the white oxide of lead,  oi
 Spanish white,  which  is, less  solid,  or white of
 Moudon.
            To make red copal varnish.
    Red sulphuretted oxide of mercury (cinnabar ver-
 milion).    Red oxide  of lead (minium), different
 red ochres, or Prussian reds, kc.
          To make purple copal varnish.
    Cochineal, carmine,  and  carminated lakes, with
 ceruse and boiled oil.
                    Brick red.
    Dragon's blood.
                Chamois colour.
   Dragon's blood with a paste composed of flowers
 of zinc, or, what is still better, alittle red vermilion.
                     Violet.
   Red sulphuretted ox:de of mercury, mixed with
 lamp-black, washed very dry, or with the black of
 burnt vine  twigs; and to render it mellower, apiu-
 per mixture of red, blue, and white.
                   Pearl grey.
   White and black; white and blue; for example,
1 ceruse and lamp-black; ceruse and indigo.
                  Flaxen grey.
   Ceruse, which forms the ground of the  paste,
 mixed with a  small quantity of Cologne earth,  as
 much English red, or carminated lake, which is
 not so durable,  and a particle of prussiate of iron,
 (Prussian blue).
             To dissolve elastic gum.
   M.  Grossart, by an ingenious method, succeed-
 ed in forming India rubber into elastic tubes.  Cut
 a bottle of the gum circularly,  in a spiral slip of a
 few lines in breadth; then plunge the whole of the
 slip into vitriolic ether, till it becomes softened;
 half an hour is generally sufficient for this purpose.
 The slip is then taken  out of the liquid,  and one
 of the extremities applied to the end of a mould,
 first rolling it on itself, and pressing it, then mount-
 ing spirally along the cylinder, taking care to lay
 over and compress with the hand every edge, one
 against the other, so that ♦.here may not be any va-
 cant space, and that all t> ja edges may join exactly;
 the whole is then to be Aound hard with a tape of
 an inch in width,  tak 4g care to turn it the same
 way with the slip of r jioutchouc.   Over the  tape,
 packthread is to be replied, in such a manner, that
 by every turn  of  the  thread joining another,  an
 equal pressure is given to every part. It is then left
 to dry, and the  tube is made.  ' In removing the
 bandage great care must be taken, th»t none  of the 
34                             UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
outward surface, which may have lodged  within |
the interstices of the tape, (of which  the  caout-
chouc takes the exact impression), may be  pulled
asunder.  If it  is found difficult to withdraw the
mould,  it may be plunged into hot water.   If the
mould  were previously smoked  or rubbed  with
chalk,  it might be removed  with less  difficulty.
Polished metallic cylinders are the most eligible
moulds for this purpose.  As solvents, oils  of* tur- |
pentine and lavender may be  employed, but  both '
are much slower of evaporating the ether, and the j
oil of turpentine, particularly,  appears  to  have a
kind of stickiness. Nevertheless, there is a solvent I
which has not that inconvenience, is cheaper, and
may easily be procured by every  one, viz.  water.
Proceed in  the same manner as with ether.   The
caoutchouc is sufficiently prepared for use when it
has been a quarter of an hour in boiling water: by
this time its edges are sometimes  transparent.  It
is to be turned spirally round the  mould, and re-
plunged frequently into  the boiling water,  during
the time employed in forming the  tube. When the
whole is bound with  packthread, it  is to be  kept ■
some hours in boiling water, after  which  it is to be j
dried, still keeping On the binding.  This method I
may be successfully employed in forming the larger |
sort of tubes, and in any other instruments, but it j
would be impracticable to make the small tubes in
this -way.
  Oil  of lavender, of turpentine, and of spikenard,
dissolve elastic gum, with the assistance  of  a  gen-
.le heat; but a mixture of volatile oil and alcohol
forms a better solvent  for it than oil alone, and
the varnish dries sooner.  If boiled in  a solution
of alum in water, it is rendered softer than  in wa-
ter alone.   Yellow wax,  in a  state of ebullition,
may be  saturated with it, by putting it, cut in small
pieces, gradually into it.  By this means a pliable
varnish  is formed, which may  be  applied to cloth
with a brush, but it still retains a  clamminess.
          To make caoutchouc varnish.
  Take caoutchouc, or elastic resin, boiled linseed
oil, essence  of turpentine, each  16 oz.
  Cut the caoutchouc into thin slips, and put them
irito a  matrass placed  in a  very hot sand-bath.
When the matter is liquefied, add the linseed oil
in a state of ebullition, and then the essence  warm.
When the varnish has lost a great part of its heat,
strain it through a piece of linen, and preserve it
in a  wide-mouthed  bottle.  This varnish  dries (
very slowly, n fault which is owing to the peculiar
nature of the caoutchouc.
  The invention of air  balloons led to the idea of
applying caoutel ouc to the composition of varnish.
It was necessary to have a  varnish  which  should
unite  great pliability and consistence.  No varnish
seemed  capable of corresponding tt_ these  views,
except that of caoutchouc, but the desiccation of it
is exceedingly tedious.
              To varnish balloons.
   The compositions for varnishing balloons have
been variously modified; but, upon the whole, the
most  approved appears to be the bird-lime varnish
of M. FaujasStFond, prepared after M. Cavalfo's
method as follows : " In order  tj render linseed
oil drying, boil it with 2 ounces of sugar of lead,
and 3 ounces of litharge, for every pint  of oil, till
they are dissolved, which may be  in half an hour.
Then put a  pound of bird-lime, and half a  pint of
the drying oil, into an iron or copper vessel, whose
capacity should equal about a gallon, and let it boil
very gently  over a slow charcoal fire, till the bird-
lime ceases  to crackle, which will  be in about half,
or three-quarters,  of an  hour; then pour upon it
2J pints more of  the drying  oil,  and  let  it  boil
about an hour longer; stirring it frequently with
an ir< n or wooden spatula.  As the varnish,  whilst
boiling, and especially when nearly ready,  swells
very  much, care should be taken to  remove, in
those cases, the pot from the fire, and to replace it
when the varnish subsides;  otherwise  it will  boil
over.  Whilst the  stuff is  boiling,  the operator
should occasionally examine whether it ht.s  boiled
enough;  which may  be  known  by  observing
whether, when rubbed between two knives,  which
are then to be separated  from  one another, the
varnish forms  threads between them,  as it must
then be removed from the fire.  When nearly cool,
add  about  an equal quantity of oil of  turpentine.
In using the varnish, the stuff must be stretched,
and the varnish applied lukewarm.  In 24 hours it
will  dry."
  Another.—As the elastic  resin, known  by the
name of Indian rubber, has been much extolled for
a varnish, the following method of making it, as
practised by M. Blanchard,  may not  prove unac-
ceptable.—Dissolve elastic gum, cut small,  in five
times its weight of rectified essential  oil of  tur-
pentine,  by keeping them  some  days together:
then boil 1 ounce of  this solution in  8 ounces of
drying linseed oil  for a few minutes;  strain the
solution, and use it warm.
        To varnish rarefied air balloons.
  With regard to the rarefied  air machines, M.
Cavallo recommends, first,  to soak the cloth in a
solution of sal-ammoniac and common size, using
one pound  of each  to eveiy gallon of  water;  and
when the cloth is quite dry,  to paint it over on the
inside with some earthy colour, and strong size or
glue.   When this paint has dried perfectly,  it will
then be proper to cover it with oily varnish,  which
might dry  before it could penetrate quite through
the cloth.   Simple  drying linseed oil will answe-i
the purpose as well  as anv, provided it be not very
fluid.
         To make varnish for silks, &c.
  To 1 quart of cold-drawn linseed-oil, poured off
from  the lees  (produced  on the addition  of un-
slacked lime,  on which the  oil  has stood 8 or 10
days at the lea6t, in order to communicate a dry-
ing quality,—or brown umber, burnt and powder-
ed, which will have the  like < ffect) and  half an
ounce of litharge; boil them for half an hour, then
add half an ounce of the copal varnish.  While the
ingredients are on the fire, in a copper vessel, put
in 1 oz. of  chios turpentine,  or common resin, and
a few drops of neatsfoot oil,  and stir the  whole
with a knife; when  cool, it is ready for use.   The
neatsfoot oil prevents the varnish from being sticky
or adhesive, and may be put  into the linseed oil at
the same time with the lime, or burnt umber. Re-
sin or chios turpentire may  be added till the var-
nish  has attained the desired thickness.
  The longer the raw linseed-oil remains on  the
unslacked lime or umber,  the sooner will the oil
dry after it is used;  if some  months, so much  the
better; such varnish will set, that is to say,  not
run,  but keep its place on the silk in  four  hours;
the silk may then be turned  and  varnished on  the
other side.
      To make pliable varnish for umbrellas.
  Take any quantity of caoutchouc,  as 10 or 12
ounces, cut into small bits with a pair of scissors,
and  put  a  strong  iron ladle (such as painters,
plumbers,  or  glaziers melt  their lead in,)  over a
common pit-coal or  other fire; which must be gen-
tle, glowing, and without smoke.  When the ladl'.-
is hot put a single bit into it:  if black smoke issues,
it will presently flame and  disappear,  or  it will
evaporate without flame: the ladle  is then too hot.
When the  ladle is less hot,  put in a second bit
which will produce  a white smoke;  tnis  white
smoke will continue  during the  operation, and
evaporate the caoutchouc; therefore no time is *o 
VARNISHES.
35
be lost, but little bits are to be put in, a few at a
time,  till the whole are melted; it should be con-
tinually and gently stirred with an iron  or brass
spoon. The instant the  smoke changes from white
to black, take off the ladle, or the whole will break
out  into a  violent flame, or be spoiled, or lost.
Care must be taken that no water be added, a few
drops only of which would,  on  account of its ex-
pansibility, make  it boil over  furiously,and with
great noise; at this period of the process, 2 pounds
or 1 quart of the  best  drying oil is to be put into
the melted caoutchouc and stirred till hot, and tiie
whole  poured into a glazed vessel through a  coarse
gauze, or  wire sieve.  When  settled and  clear,
which  will be  in a few minutes, it is fit for use,
either  hot or cold.
  The silk should be always stretched horizontally
by pins or  tenter-hooks on  frames: (the greater
they are  in length the better,) and the varnish
poured on cold, in hot  weather, and hot, in cold
weather.  It is perhaps best,  always  to lay it on
when cold.   The art  of laying it on properly, con-
sists in making no intestine motion in the varnish,
which  would create  minute bubbles, therefore
brushes of every kind are improper, as each bub-
ble  breaks  in  drying, and forms a small hole,
through which  the air will transpire.
  This varnish is pliant, unadhesive, and unaltera-
ole by  weather.
         Varnish used for Indian shields.
  Shields made at Silhet,  in Bengal,  are  noted
throughout India, for the  lustre and durability of
the black varnish  with which they are covered;
Silhet  shields  constitute,  therefore,  no  inconsi-
derable article of traffic, being  in request among
natives who carry  arms,  and retain the  ancient
predilection for the scimitar and buckler.  The
varnish is composed of the expressed juice of the
marking nut, Semecarpus A:iacnrdium, and that of
another kindred fruit, Holigarna Ijongifolia.
  The shell of  the Semecarpus Anacardium con-
tains between  its  integuments  numerous  cells,
filled with  a black, acrid, resinous juice; which
likewise is found,  though less abundantly, in the
wood of the tree.  It is commonly employed as an
indelible ink,  to mark all  sorts of cotton  cloth.
The colour  is fixed with quick  lime.  The  corti-
cal part of the fruit of Holigarna Longifolia like-
wise contains between its lamina? numerous  cells,
filled with  a black, thick, acrid fluid.   The  na-
tives of Malabar extract  by incision, with which
they varnish targets.
  To prepare the varnish according to the method
practised  in Silhet, the nuts of the Semecarpus
Anat,ardium, and  the  berries  of the Holigarna
             HOUSE PAINTING.

      To mix the colours for house painting.
   All simple or  compound colours,  and all the
 shades of colour which nature or art can produce,
■and which might be thought proper for the  differ-
 ent kinds of painting, would forma very extensive
 catalogue, were we to take int^i consideration only
 certain external characters, or the intensity of their
 tint.  But art, founded on the experience of several
Longifolia, having been steeped for  a month in
clear water, are cut transversely, and pressed in a
mill.  The expressed juice of each is kept for se-
veral months, taking off the scum from time to time.
Afterwards the liquor is decanted,  and two parts
of the one are added to one part of the other, to be
used' as varnish.   Other proportions of ingre-
dients  are  sometimes  employed; but in all,  the
resinous juice of the  Semecarpus predominates.
The varnish is laid on like paint, and when dry, is
polished by rubbing it with an agate, or smooth
pebble.   This varnish also prevents destruction of
wood, &c. by  the white ant.
         To varnish like gold silver leaf.
  Fix the leaf on the subject, similar to geld leaf,
by the  interposition  of  proper glutinous matters,
spread the varnish upon the piece with a pencil.
When the first coat is dry wash the piece again and
again with the varnish till the colour appears suf-
ficiently deep.  What is  called gilt leather, and
many picture frames, have no other than this gild-
ing; washing  them with a little rectified spirit of
wine affords a  proof of this; the spirit dissolving the
varnish, and leaving the silver leaf of its own white-
ness; for plain frames thick  tin foil may be used
instead of  silver.  The tin leaf fixed on the piece
with glue is to be burnished, then polished  with
emery and  a fine linen cloth, and afterwards with
putty applied  in the same manner: being then lac-
quered over with varnish five  or six times,  it looks
very nearly like burnished gold.   The same var-
nish, made  with a less proportion of colouring ma-
terials, is applied also on  works of brass; both for
heightening the  colour of the metal to a resem-
blance with that of gold, and for preserving it from,
being tarnished by the air.
               To recover vantish.
  Clear off the filth with a ley made of potash, and
the ashes of the lees of wine;  then take 48 ounces
of potash, anil 16 of the above mentioned  ashes,
and put them into six quarts of water, and this com-
pletes the ley.
               To polish varnish.
  This is effected with pumice stone and  tripoli
earth.  The pumice stone must be reduced to an
impalpable powder, and put upon a piece of serge
moistened  with water:  with  this  rub  lightly and
equally the varnish substance.  The tripoli must
also be reduced to a very fine powder, and put up-
on a clean woollen cloth, moistened with olive oil,
with which the polishing is to be performed.  The
varnish is then to be wiped off with soft linen, and
when quite dry, cleaned with  starch or Spanish
white,  and  rubbed with  the palm of the hand.
centuries, has prescribed bounds to the consump-
tion of colouring substances, and  to the application
of them to particular purposes.   rI o cause a sub-
stance to be admitted into the class of colouring
bodies employed by painters, it is nat sufficient for
it to contain a colour; to brightness and splendour
it must also unite  durability  in  the tint tr coloui
which it communicates.
              To make black paint.
  Usage  requires  attention in the  choice of the
Oil.  AND  WATUR  COLOURS. 
36
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
matters destined for black. The following are their
properties:
  Black from peach stones is dull.
  Ivory-black is strong and  beautiful, when it has  }
been well attenuated under the muller.
  Black from the charcoal of beech wood, ground
on porphyry, has a bluish tone.
  Lamp black may be rendered mellower by mak-
ing it with black which has been kept an hour in
a state of redness in a close crucible. It then loses
the fat matter which accompanies this.kind of soot.
  Black furnished by the  charcoal of vine-twigs,
ground  on porphyry,  is weaker, and of a dirty
grey colour, when coarse and alone, but it becomes
blacker the more the charcoal has been divided. It
then forms a black very much sought after,  and
which goes a great way.
        To make paints from lamp black.
  The consumption of lamp black  is very  exten-
sive in common painting.  It serves to modify the
brightness of the tones of the other colours, or to
facilitate the composition of  secondary  colours.
The oil paint applied to iron  grates and railing,
and the paint applied to paper snuff-boxes, to those
made of tin plate,  and to other articles with dark
grounds, consume  a  very large quantity of this
black.   Great solidity may be  given to works of
this kind,  by covering  them  with several  coatings
of the fat turpentine,  or golden varnish, which has
been mixed with lamp black, washed in water, to
separate the foreign bodies introduced into it by
the negligence of the workmen who  prepare it.
  After the varnish  is applied, the articles are
dried  in a stove, by exposing them to a heat some-
what greater than that employed for articles of pa-
per.   Naples yellow, which  enters into the com-
position of  black varnish, is  the basis of the dark
brown observed  00'  tobacco boxes of plate-iron,
because this colour changes  to brown when dried
with the varnish.
        To make a superior lamp black.
  Suspend over a lamp a funnel of tin plate, hav-
ing above it a pipe, to convey from the apartment
the smoke which escapes from the  lamp.   Large
mushrooms, of a very black carbonaceous matter,
and exceedingly light,  will be formed at the sum-
mit of the cone. This carbonaceous part is carried
to such a state of division as  cannot be given to any
other matter, by grinding it on a piece of porphyry.
  This  black  goes a great  way in  every kind of
painting.  It may be rendered drier by calcination
in close vessels.
  The funnel ought to be united to the pipe, which
conveys off the smoke, by  means of wire,  because
solder would be melted by the  flame of the lamp.
      To make  black from ground pitcoal.
  The best for this purpose is that which has  a shin-
ing fracture.  It affords, perhaps, the most useful
brown the artist can place  on his palet; being re-
markably clear, not  so warm as Vandyke brown,
and serving as a shadow for blues,  reds,  or  yelT
lows, when glazed over  them.  It  seems  almost
certain that Titian  made large use of this material.
Coal, when burnt to a  white heat,  then quenched
in water, and ground down, gives an excellent  blue
black. This belongs to artists' colours.
         To make black from wine lees.
  This black results from the calcination of wine
lees and tartar; and  is manufactured on a large
scale in some districts of  Germany, in the en-
virons of  Mentz, and even in  France.  This ope-
ration is performed in large cylindric vessels, or
in pots, having an aperture  in the cover to afford
a passage to the  smoke, and to the acid aBd alka-
line vapours which  escape during  the  process.
When no more  smoke is  observed,  the operation
is finished. The remaining matter, which is merely
a mixture of salts  and a carbonaceous part very
much attenuated, is then washed several times in
boiling water; and it is reduced to the proper de-
gree of fineness by grinding it on porphyry.   _  _
  If this black be extracted  from dry lees, it is
coarser than that obtained from tartar; because the
lees contain earthy matters which  are confounded
with the carbonaceous  part.
  This black goes a great way, and has.a velvety
appearance.  It is used  chiefly by  copper-plate
printers.
  Another.—Peach stones, burnt in a close vessel,
produce a charcoal, which, when ground on por-
phyry, is employed in painting to give an old grey.
  Another.—Vine twigs reduced to charcoal give a
bluish black, which goes a great way. When mix-
ed with white it produces a silver white, which is
not  produced by other  blacks; it has a  pretty near
resemblance to the black of peach stones;  but to
bring this colour to the utmost degree of perfec-
tion, it must be carefully ground on porphyry.
         To make ivory and  bone black.
  Put into a crucible, surrounded by burning coals,
fragments or turnings  of Ivory, or of the osseous
parts of animals, and cover it closely.  The ivoiy
or bones, by exposure to the heat, will be reduced
to charcoal.  When no  more smoke is seen to pass
through the joining of  the cover, leave the cruci-
ble  over the fire for half an hour longer, or until it
has  completely cooled.   There will then be found
in it a  hard carbonaceous matter,  which, when
pounded and  ground on porphyry with water, is
washed on a filter with warm water, and then dried.
Before it is used it must be again subjected to the
matter.
  Black furnished by hones is reddish.  That pro-
duced by  ivory is more beautiful.   It is brighter
than black obtained from peach stones.   When
mixed in a proper dose with white oxide of lead,
it forms a beautiful pearl grey.  Ivory black is
richer.  The Cologne  and Cassel black are form-
ed from ivory.
          To paint in  white distemper.
  Grind fine  in water,   Bougival white, a kind of
marl, or chsdky clay, and mix it with size. It may
he brightened by a small quantity of indigo,  or
charcoal black.
             To make white  paint.
  The white destined for varnish or oil requires a
metallic oxide,  which  gives more body to the co-
lour.  Take ceruse,- reduced to  powder, and grind
it with oil of pinks, and £ oz. qf sulphate of zinc
for  each pound of oil.   Apply the second coating
without the sulphate of zinc, and suffer it to dry.
Cover the whole with  a stratum of  sandarac var-
nish. This colour is durable, brilliant, and agreea-
ble  to the eye.
  Boiled linseed oil might be employed instead of
oil  of pinks,  but the  colour  of it would in some
degree injure the purity of the white.
  Another.—White is  prepared also  with pure
white oxide of lead, ground with a little essence,
added Jp oil of pinks, and mixed with gallipot var-
nish.  The colour may  be mixed also with essence
diluted with oil, and without  varnish, which is re-
served for the two last coatings.  If for a lively
white,  the colour is heightened with  a little Prus-
sian blue, or indigo,   or with a  little prepared
black.   The latter gives it a grey cast.   But  pure
white lead, the price of which is  much higher
than ceruse, is reserved for valuable articles.  In
this particular case, if a very  fine durable white
be required, grind it with a little essence, and mix
it with sandarac var'iish.
     To paint in light  grey,  ard distemper.
  Ceruse,  mixed  with a small quantity of lamp
black,  composes a grey, more or less charged ac-
I 
OIL AND WATER COLOURS.
37
 cording to the quantity of black.  With this mat- |
 ter, therefore, mixed with black in different doses,
 a great variety of shades may be formed, from the
 lightest, to the darkest grey.
   If this colour be destined for distemper,  it is
 mixed with water; if  intended  for oil painting, it
 is ground  with  nut oil, or oil of pinks; and with
 essence added to oil, if designed for varnish. This
 colour  is  durable  and very pure,  if mixed with
 camphorated mastic varnish: the gallipot  varnish
 renders it so solid that  it can bear to be  struck
 with a hammer, if,  after the first  stratum it has
 been applied with varnish, and without size.  For
 the last coating sandarac varnish, and camphorated
 ditto are proper; and for the darkest grey, spiritu-
 ous  sandarac varnish.
      To make economical white house paint.
   Skim milk, 2 quarts, fresh slacked lime, 8 oz.
 linseed  oil,   6  oz.  white burgundy pitch, 2 oz.
 Spanish white, 3 pounds.
   The lime to be slacked in water, exposed to the
 air, mixed in about one-fourth of the milk; the oil
 in which the pitch is  previously dissolved, to be
 added, a little at a time; then the rest of the milk,
 and afterwards the Spanish white.   This quantity
 is sufficient for 27 square yards, two coats, and the
 expense not  more than ten pence.
           To make pearl grey paint.
   If a particle of blue be substituted for the black
 in the preceding composition, or  if this blue be
 combined with a slight portion of black, a silver or
 pearl grey will  be obtained; but that the  ground
 may not be altered by  a foreign tint, the colour for
 the  first  coating  must  be  ground with essence
 mixed with a little oil of pinks: for the succeeding
 strata, grind with camphorated mastic varnish,
 softened with a little oil of pinks, and mix the co-
 lour with the same varnish.  The  pearl grey will
 be still brighter, if the last stratum be glazed with
 sandarac varnish mixed with a little  colour.
              To make flaxen grey.
   Ceruse still predominates in this colour, whicn
 is treated as  the other  greys, but with  this differ-
 ence, that it  admits a mixture  of  lake instead of
 black.  Take the  quantity, therefore, of ceruse
 necessary, and grind  it separately.  Then mix it
 up,  and add the lake and  Prussian  blue,  also
 ground  separately.   The quantities of the last two
 colours ought to be proportioned to the tone of co-
 lour required.
  This  colour is  proper for distemper, varnish,
 and oil painting.   For  varnish, grind it with mas-
 tic gallipot varnish,  to which a little oil of pinks
 has been added,  and then mix it up  with common
 gallipot varnish.   For  oil painting, grind with un-
 prepared oil  of pinks, and  mix up  with resinous
 drying  nut-oil.   The painting is  brilliant  and
 solid.
   When the  artist piques himself in  carefully pre-
 paring those  colours which have splendour, it will
 be  proper,  before he commences his  labour, to
 6top up the holes formed by the heads of the nails
 in wainscotting with a  cement made of ceruse or
 putty.
  Every kind of sizing which, according to usual
custom^ precedes the application of varnish, ought
 to be proscribed as highly  prejudicial, when the
wainscotting  consists of fir-wood.  Sizing may De
admitted for  plaster, but without any mixture.  A
plain stratum of strong glue and water spread over
it, is sufficient to fill up the pores to prevent any
unnecessary consumption of the varnish.
  The  first stratum of colour,  is  ceruse without
any mixture, ground with essence added to a little
oil of pinks,  and mixed up with essence.  If any
of the traces are uneven,  rub it lightly, when dry,
 with  pumice-stone.  This  operation contributes
 greatly to the beauty and elegance of the polish
 when the varnish is applied.
   The  second stratum  is composed of  ceruses
 changed to flaxen grey by  the mixture  of  a  little
 Cologne earth, as much English red or lake, and
 a  particle of Prussian  blue.  First so make the
 mixture with a small quantity of ceruse,  that the
 result shall be a smoky grey, by the addition of the
 Cologne earth.  The red which is added,  makes
 it incline to flesh colour,  and the Prussian blue
 destroys the latter to form a dark flaxen grey.  The
 addition of ceruse brightens the tone.   This stra-
 tum and the next are ground, and mixed up with
 varnish as before.
   This mixture of colours, which produces flaxen
 grey, has the advantage over pearl  grey, as it de-
 fends the  ceruse  from the impression of  the air
 and light, which makes it  assume a yellowish tint.
 Flaxen  grey, composed in this manner, is unalter-
 able.   Besides, the essence which forms the vehi-
 cle of the first stratum contributes to bring  forth a
 colour,  the. tone of which decreases a little, by the
 effect of drying.  This observation ought to serve
 as a  guide  to the artist,  in regard to the  tint,
 which is always stronger in a liquid mixture  than
 when the matter composing it is extended in a thin
 stratum, or when it is dry.
            To make oak wood colcir.
   The basis of this colour is still formed of ceruse.
 Three-fourths of this oxide,  and a fourth of ochre
 de rue, umber earth, and yellow de Berri; the last
 three ingredients being employed  in proportions
 which lead  to the required tint;  give a  matter
 equally proper for distemper, varnish, and oil.
          To make wa'nut wood colour.
   A given quantity of ceruse, half that quantity of
 ochre de rue, a little umber earth, red ochre, and
 yellow ochre de Berri, compose this colour proper
 for distemper, varnish, and oil.
   For varnish, grind with a little drying nut-oil,
 and mix up with the gallipot varnish.
   For  oil painting, grind with  fat oil of pinks
 added to drying oil or essence, and mix up  with
 plain drying oil, or with resinous drying oil.
    To make Naples and Montpellier yellow.
   The composition of these is simple, yellow ochre
 mixed with ceruse,  ground with water, if destined
 for distemper; or  drying nut-oil  and essence,  in
 equal parts, if intended for varnish; and mixed up
 with camphorated  mastic Varnish;  if for aciicate
 objects, or with gallipot  varnish, give a very fine
 colour,  the  splendour of  which  depends  on the
 doses of the ceruse; which must be varied accord-
 ing to the particular nature of the  colouring mat-
 ter employed.  If the ground of the colour is fur-
 nished by ochre, and  if  oil painting be intended,
 the grinding with  oil added to  essence  may be
 omitted, as essence alone will be sufficient.  Oil,
 however, gives more pliability and more body.
               To make jonquil.
  This  is employed only  in distemper.  It may,
 however, be  used  with varnish,   A vegetable co-
 lour serves as its base.  It is made with Dutch pink
 and ceruse,  and ground with mastic gallipot  var-
 nish, and mixed up with gallipot varnish.
          To make golden yellow colour.
  Cases often occur when  it is necessary to pro-
duce a gold  colour without employing a metallic
 substance.  A colour capable of forming an illu-
 sion is then given  to the  composition, the greater
part of which consists of yellow.  This is accom-
plished  by Naples  or Montpellier yellow, bright-
ened by Spanish white, or by white of Morat, mix-
ed with ochre de Berri and realgar.  The last sub
 stance, even in small quantity, gives to the mixture
acolour imitating gold, and which may be employed
 in distemper, varnish, or oil. When destined for oil, 
38
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
it is ground with drying or  pure nut-oil added to
essence, and mixed up with drying oil.
        To make cliamois and buff colour.
  Yellow is the foundation of chamois colour,
which is modified by a particle of minium, or what
is better, cinnabar and ceruse  in small quantity.
This colour may be employed in distemper, varnish,
and oil.  For varnish, it is ground  with one half
common oil of pinks, and one half of mastic galli-
pot varnish.   It  is mixed  with common gallipot
varnish.   For oil painting, it is ground and mixed
up with drying oil.
    ■To make olive colour for oil and varnish.
  Olive coIoiums a composition the shades ol which
may be diversified.  Black and a little blue, mixed
with yellow, will produce an olive colour.  Yel-
low de Berri, or d'Auvergne, with  a little verdi-
gris and charcoal, will also form this colour.
  It  is ground and mixed up with mastic, gallipot
and common gallipot varnishes.  For oil painting,
it is  ground with oil added to essence, and  mixed
up with drying oil.
       To make olive colour for distemper.
  When intended for distemper, it will be neces-
sary  to make a change iu the composition.  The
yellow abovementioned, indigo,  and ceruse,  or
Spanish white, are the new ingredients which must
be employed.
             To make blue colours.
  Blue belongs to the order of vegetable substances,
like indigo ; or to that of metallic substances, like
Prussian blue ;  or to  that of stony mineral sub-
stances, as ultra  marine; or to that of vitreous sub-
stances col oured by a metallic oxide, as Saxon blue.
Ultra marine is more particularly reserved for pic-
tures.  The same may, in some degree, be said of
Saxon blue.
  When prussiate of iron or indigo is  employed
without mixture, the colour produced is too dark.
It has no splendour, and very often the light makes
it appear black;  it is, therefore, usual to soften it
with white.
            To make blue distemper.
  Grind with water as much  ceruse as may be
thought necessary for the whole of the intended
work; and afterwards mix it with indigo, or Prus-
sian blue.
  This colour produces  very little effect in distem-
 fier, ' ut it is not very favourable to  the play of the
 ight; ^ut it soon acquires brilliancy and  splendour
beneath the vitreous lamina of the varnish.   Paint-
ing in  distemper, when carefully varnished, pro-
duces a fine  effect.
          To make Prussian blue paint.
  The ceruse is ground with  oil, if for  varnish
made with essence, or merely with essence, which
is equally proper for oil painting; and a quantity of
either of these blues sufficient to produce the  re-
quired tone is added.
  For varnish, the ceruse is generally ground with
oil of pinks added to a little essence, and is mixed
up with camphorated mastic varnish, if the colour
is destined for delicate  objects; or with gallipot
varnish if for  wainscoting.   This  colour,  when
ground and mixed up  with drying oil, produces  a
fine effect, if covered by a solid varnish made with
alcohol or essence.
  If this oil colour be destined for expensive arti-
cles, such as valuable furniture subject to friction,
it may  be glazed with  the  turpentine copal var-
nish.
              To make  Saxon blue.
  Saxon blue, a  vitreous matter coloured by oxide
of cobalt, gives a tone of colour different from that
of the prussiate of iron and indigo.   It is employed
for sky-blues.  The case is the same with blue ver-
Uiter, a preparation made from oxide of copper and
 lime.   Both these blues  stand well in distempei,
 in varnish, and in oil.
   Saxon blue requires to be ground with drying
 oil, and to be mixed with gallipot varnish.  It in-
 tended for oil painting, it is to be mixed up with
 resinous drying oil, which gives body to this vitre-
 ous matter.
             To  make blue verditer.
  This may be ground with pure alcoholic varnish
 added to a little  essence; and  may be mixed up
 with compound  mastic  varnish if the colour is to
 be applied to delicate articles.  Or mastic gallipot
 varnish, added to a little drying oil, may be used
 for grinding, and common  gallipot  varnish  for
 mixing up, if the painting is intended for ceilings,
 wainscoting,  &c.  This colour is soft and  dull,
 and  requires a varnish to heighten the  tone of it,
 and give it play.   Turpentine copal varnish is pro-
 per for this purpose, if the article has need  of s
 durable varnish.
              To make green colour.
  Every green colour, simple or compound, when
 mixed up with a  whi.e ground, becomes soft,  and
 gives a sea-green of greater or less strength, and
 more or less delicate, in the  ratio of the respective
 quantities of the principal colours.   Thus, green
 oxides of copper, such as mountain green, verdi-
 gris, dry crystallized acetate of copper, green com-
 posed with blue verditer, and the Dutch  pink of
 Troyes, or any other yellow, will form, with a base
 of a white colour, a sea green, the intensity of which
 may be easily changed or  modified.   The  white
 ground for painting in distemper is generally com-
 posed ot'Bougival white (white marl), or white of
 Troyes (chalk), or Spanish white, (pure clay); but
 for varnish or oil  painting,  it is sought for in a me-
 tallic oxide.  In this  case, ceruse or pure  white
 oxide of lead is employed.
        To make sea green for distemper.
  Grind separately with water, mountain green and
 ceruse; and mix up with parchment size and water
 adding ceruse in sufficient quantity to produce the
 degree of intensity required in the  colour.   Watin
 recommends the  use of Dutch pink of Troyes s,nd
 white oxide of lead, in proportions pointed out by
 experience; because the colour thence resulting is
 more durable.
  In the case of a triple composition, begin to make
 the green by  mixing Dutch pink with blue verdi-
 ter, and then  lower the colour to sea green, by the
 addition of ceruse ground with water.
     To make sea green for varnish and oils.
  Varnish requires that this colour should possess
 more body than it has in distemper; and this it ac-
 quires from the oil which is mixed with it.  This
 addition even gives it more splendour.   Besides, a
 green of a'metallic nature  is substituted  for  the
 green of the  Dutch pink, which is of a vegetable
 nature.
  A certain  quantity of verdigris, pounded  and
 sifted  through a  silk sieve,  is ground  separately
 with nut oil, half drying and half fat;  and if the
 colour is intended for metallic surfaces, it must be
 diluted  with  camphorated mastic,  or gallipot var-
 nish.
  On the other hand, the ceruse is ground with es-
sence, or with oils to which one halt of essence has
been added, and the two colours are mixed in pro-
portions relative to the degree of intensity intended
to be given to the mixture.  It may readily be con-
ceived that the principal part of this composition
consists of ceruse.
  If this colour be destined for articles of a certain
value, crystallized verdig;is, dried  and pulverized,
ought to be substituted for common verdigris,  and
the painting must bo covered with  a stratum of the
transparent or turpentine copal varnish. 
OIL AND WATER COLOURS.
39
  The sea-greens, which admit into their compo-
sition metallic colouring parts, are durable and do
not change.
  The last compositions may be employed for sea-
 freen  in  oil painting;  but  it will be  proper to
 righten the tone a little more than when varnish
is used; because this colour becomes darker by the
addition of yellow which  the oil  developes in the
course of  time.
Green for doors, shutters, balustrades, and arti- !
             cles exposed to  the air.              I
  Ceruse  is  the principal  base  of this colour, j
When it is required to bring it to  the tone most
agreeable, grind, with nut-oil, two parts of ceruse, !
and with essence of turpentine  one part of verdi- j
gris.   Then  mix up the two colours with one half |
of common drying nut-oil, and one half of resinous
drying nut-oil.  This colour appears at first to be
a pale blue ;  but the impression of  the  light soon
makes it pass to green,  and  in this  state it is very i
durable.
  The doses of the ceruse ought to be oarried to a
third more,  when the colour is intended to be era-
ployed in  the centre  of large  cities: without this |
precaution it acquires a gloomy tone, which leads ,
to a blackish green.   This effect arises  from the
thick atmosphere, and the exhalations which viti-
ate the air  in large  cities.  In these cases white
ought to be preferred to yellow, as the ground to a
green colour.  The  custom among painters is to
make the first coating yellow.
       To make compound green for rooms.       i
  Take two pounds of ceruse, four ounces of Dutch I
pink of Trojes, and one ounce of Prussian blue or
indigo.  This mixture produces a  green, the in-
tensity of which may be increased  or diminished
by the addition of yellow or  blue.   Grind with oil,
to which a fourth part of essence  has been added,
an*! mix up  with camphorated mastic or gallipot
varnish.  Both  these contribute to  the  durability
of the colour.   If it  be required to destroy the
smell of the turpentine, form a glazing with com-
pound mastic varnish.
To make  a green for  articles exposed to friction, as
             wheels of carriages, &c.
  The great wear to which carriages are exposed
by friction and continual washing, requires  that a
durable varnish  should be employed when they are
paiuted.  Whatever care may be taken by coach-
men, it is impossible that continual rubbing with
a mop or  sponge, which becomes filled with earthy
particles,  should not produce  an  alteration  in the
best varnish.  To render  the work solid, first ap-
ply a ground composed of boiled linseed oil, ceruse
previously dried over a pretty strong fire, to make
it lose the white, and a little  white vitriol, in a
dose of a  quarter of an ounce to each pound of mat-
ter.  The second stratum must be composed of the
preceding green colour, viz. two  parts of ceruse,
and one part of verdigris, pulverized and ground
with  boiled  nut-oil,  added  to a fourth part of fat
oil of  pinks, and mixed up  with drying oil.   The
third stratum consists of  the  same colour mixed
up  with camphorated copal  varnish.
     To make red for the  bodies of carriages.
   Artists differ in regard  to the composition of
the first strata.   Matin recommends red de Berri,
(akind of argillaceous ochre, mixed with litharge).
Others prefer red oxide of lead.  Either of these
substances miy be  employed, as  the artist finds
most convenient.  Take  one-third of these bases
for  the  first stratum, adding a  little litharge, j
ground on   porphvry,  if red de Berri be used.
Grind with oil,  half'fat nnd half  drying, and  mix
up with drying  oil.   The  second stratum should
lie red oxide of lead, ground with drying oil, added
.o  one half  of  essence.  The third  ought to be
composed in the same  manner, but with vermil-
ion.   Now glaze the whole with fat copal varnish,
heightened with a little vermilion, and hasten the
desiccation of the varnish by exposure to the sun,
or to a strong current of air.
  The red  is of';en prepared,  from motives of
economy, with  red  oxide of lead, without  ver-
milion.
          To paint in varnish on wood.
  Lay on the wood two coats of Troyes white, di
luted  with • size water.  Next, lay over these  a
third coat of ceruse,  then mix the colour wanted
with turpentine oil; add the varnish to it, and lay
it on the  wood, previously prepared as follows:—
  Polish the wood first with shave-grass or horse-
tail, and then with pounce-stone.   Lay afterwards
six. or seven coats of colour, mixed with varnish,
allowing after each coat, a  sufficient time to dry,
before laying on the next; then polish over the last
coat with pounce-stone,  ground on marble into a
subtle pov/der.  When  this is done,  lay two or
three coats of pure white varnish.   As soon as this
is dry, rub  it over with a soft rag, dipped in fine
olive oil;  then rub it with tripoli, reduced to sub-
tle powder, and having wiped  it  with a clean
pieoe of linen,  pass  a  piece  of wash leather all
over it.
             To make red for cuffets.
   Varnish with  vermilion  is not confined merely
to the wheels and bodies  of carriages; it  often
forms the ground; and in this case it ought tp be
treated in the same manner. It requires,  however,
a little more labour.   After the first stratum is ap-
plied, itis rubbed with pumice-stone; the varnish
is then laid on. at  several  times, and  polished.
Grind with boiled oil, added to essence, red oxide
of lead, and mix up  with gallipot varnish.   The
second stratum is formed of  vermilion, heighten-
ed with a small particle of Naples yellow.  Then
apply a third stratum of the varnish of the second,
a  little charged with vermilion.  This varnish is
very durable, and is susceptible of a fine polish.
              To make bright red.
   A mixture of lake with  vermilion gives that
beautiful bright red which painters employ for the
sanguine parts.  This red is sometimes imitated
for varnishing small appendages of the toilette. It
ought to be ground with varnish,  and mixed up
with the same, after which it is glazed and polish-
ed. The mastic gallipot varnish is used for grind-
ing; gallipot varnish for mixing up; and campho-
rated mastic varnish for glazing.
         To make crimson, or rose colour.
   Carminated lake,  that which  is  composed of
alum, charged with the colouring part of cochineal,
ceruse, and carmine, forms  a beautiful crimson.
It requires a particle of vermilion and of white lead.
   The use  of this varnish is confined to valuable
articles.
              To make violet colour.
   Violet is made indifferently with red and blacs,
or red and blue; and to render it more  splendid,
with red, white,  and blue.   To compose violet,
therefore, applicable  to varnish,  take minium, or
what is still  better, vermilion, and grind it with
the camphorated mastic varnish, to which a fourth
part of boiled oil,  and  a little ceruse have been
added: then add a little Prussian blue, ground in
oil.   The proportions requisite for the degree of
intensity  tq be given to the colour will soon be
found  by experience.   The white brightens the
tint.  The vermilion and Prussian blue,  separate
or mixed,  give hard tones,'  which must be soften-
ed by an intermediate substance, that modifies, to
their advantage, the reflections of the light.
             To make chesnut colour.
   This colour is composed  of red, yellow,  and 
40
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 Dlack.  The English  red, or red ochre of Au-
 vergne, ochre de rue,  and a little black, form a
 dark chcsnut colour.   It is proper for painting of
 every kind.  If English red, which is dryer than
 that of Auvergne, be employed, it will be proper,
 when the colour  is intended for varnish, to grind
 it with drying nut  oil.   The  ochre of Auvergne
 may be ground with the mastic gallipot, and mixed
 up with gallipot varnish.
   The  most experienced  artists  grind dark co-
 lours with linseed oil, when the situation will ad-
 mit of its being used,  because it is more drying.
 For articles without doors nut  oil is preferable.
 The colours of oak-wood, walnut-tree,  chesnut,
 olive, and yellow, require the addition  of a little
 litharge ground on porphyry; it hastens the desic-
 cation of the colour, and gives it body.
   But if it is intended to cover these colours with
 varnish,  as is generally done in wainscoting, they
 must be mixed up with essence, to which a little
 oil has been added. The colour is  then much bet-
 ter disposed to receive the varnish, under which it
 exhibits all the splendour it can derive from the
 reflection  of the light.
          To make a dryer for painting.
   Vitreous oxide of lead (litharge), is of no other
 use in painting than to free oils from their greasy
 particles,  for the purpose  of communicating to
 them a drying quality.   Red  litharge,  however,
 ought to be preferred to the greenish yellow: it is
 not so hard, and answers better for the purpose to
 which it is destined.
   When painters wish  to obtain a common colour
 of the ochrey kind, and have no boiled oil by them,
 they may  paint with linseed oil, not freed from its
 greasy particles,  by mixing with the colour about
two or three parts of litharge,  ground on a piece
 of porphyry with water, dried, and reduced to fine
 powder,  for 16 parts  of oil.   The colour has a
 great deal of boay, and dries as speedily as  if
 mixed with drying oil.
                 Siccitive oil.
  Boil together for two hours on a slow and equal
fire, half an ounce of litharge, as  much calcined
ceruse, and the same of terre  d'ombre  and talc,
with one pound of linseed  oil, carefully stirring
the whole  time.   It  must be  carefully  skimmed
and clarified.  The older it grows  the better it is.
 A quarter of a pint of this dryer  is required to
 every pound of colour.
      To  make cheap beautiful green paint.
  The cost of this paint is less  than one-fourth of
 oil colour, and the beauty far superior.  Take 4
 pounds of Roman vitriol, and pour  on it a tea-ket-
 tle full of boiling  water; when dissolved,  add 2
 pounds of pearl ash, and stir the mixture well
 with a stick, until the effervescence  cease: then
 add a quarter of a pound  of pulverized yellow ar-
 senic, and stir the whole together.  Lay it on with
 a paint brush, and if the wall has not been painted
 before, two, or even three coats will be requisite.
 To paint a common sized room with this colour,
 will not cost more than 5 or 6 dollars.  If a pea-
 Teen is  required, put in less, and if an apple-
 green more, of the yellow arsenic.
              To paint in fresco.
   It is performed with  water-colours  on fresh
 plaster; or a wall laid with mortar not dry.  This
 sort of painting has a great advantage by its incor-
 porating with the mortar,  and, drying along with
 it, becomes very durable.
   The ancients painted on stucco; and  we may
 remark in Vitruvius, what infinite  care they took
 in making the plastering of their buildings, to ren-
 der them beautiful and lasting; though the modern
 painters find a plaster of lime and sand preferable
 to it.
          To paint fire places and hearths.
   The Genevese employ a  kind of stone, known
 under the name of molasse, for constructing fire-
 places and stoves, after the  German manner. 1 his
 stone is brought from Saura,  a  village of Savoy,
 near Geneva.  It has a greyish colour, inclining
 to blue," which is very agreeable to the eye.   This
 tint is  similar to that communicated to common
 white-washing with lime, chalk, or  gypsum, the
 dulness of which is corrected by a particle of blue
 extract of indigo, or by charcoal black.
          To make red distemper for tiles.
   Dip a brush in water from a common ley, or in
 soapy water, or in water charged with a 2^th part
 of the carbonate of potash  (alkali of potash), and
 draw it over the tiles.  This  washing thoroughly
 cleanses them, and disposes  all the parts of the.
 pavement to receive the distemper.
   When  dry,  dissolve in 8 pints of water half a
 pound of Flanders glue; and while the mixture is
 boiling,  add two  pounds of red ochre; mix the
 whole with great  care.  Then apply a stratum of
 this mixture to the pavement,  and when dry apply
 a  second stratum with drying  linseed oil, and a
 third with  the same red,  mixed  up with  size.
 When the whole is dry, rub it with wax.
             To distemper in badigeon.
   Badigeon is employed for giving an uniform tint
 to houses rendered brown by time, and to churches.
 Badigeon, in general, has  a yellow tint.   That
 which succeeds best is composed of the saw-dust
 or powder of the same kind of stone,  and  slacked
 lime, mixed up in a bucket of  water, holding in
 solution a pound of the sulphate of alumina, (alum).
 It is applied with a brush.
  At Paris, and in other parts of France,  where
 the large edifices are constructed of a soft kind of
 stone, which is yellow, and sometimes white, when
 it comes  from the quarry, but which in time be-
 comes brown,  a little ochre de rue is substituted
 for the powder of the stone  itself, and restores to
 the edifice its original tint.
               To make red lead.
  Fuse a quantity of lead upon a hearth, and work
 it about with an iron wet, till  the calx acquires a
 yellow colour.  Then grind it small with water at
 a mill, constructed for the purpose;  and well  wash
 it to deprive it of small lumps, which may remain
 uncalcined. Put this massicot, well dried, into stone
 pots, which are placed horizontally in the  colour
 furnace, fill them something more than a  quarter
 full, and heat them till they acquire  a red  colour;
 place a brick at the mouth of each pot to confine
 the heat;  but remove it occasionally to work the
 matter about.   By continuing this heat a sufficient
 time, the colour will become finer till the minium
 is perfect.
  Red lead from lead, and also from litharge,  is
 not so good as the former, on account of the scoria
 of other substances mixed  with the litharge.   The
 makers of flint-glass, who use  much red lead in
 their glass, find that it does not flux so well as that
 made from the direct oxidation of the metal, as prac-
tised in  the county of Derby.  Those furnaces are
like a baker's oven, with a low vaulted roof, and
two  party-walls,  rising from their  floor,  which
leave a middle space, where the pit-coal is burned-
the flame being drawn over the party-walls, strikes
on the roof, and is thence reflected on each side, by
which the lead there is kept  melted.   The surface
of lead, by its exposition to air, becomes instantly
 covered with a dusty pellicle, which  is successively
removed:  the greater part of  the metal is thus con-
verted into a yellowish-green powder, which is after-
wards ground fine in a mill, and washed;  the he-
terogeneous particles of lead, still remaining, are
 separated by passing the wast through sieves; the 
OIL AND WATER COLOURS.
4.
yellow colour becomes uniform, and is called mas-
sicot, by the painters.  The  yellow oxide, well
dried, is thrown again into  the furnace, where it
is constantly stirred in a continual heat; so that in
about 48 hours, this oxide acquires a vivid red, in-
clining to orange colour, and is kuown by the name
of minium, or red lead.
  The red lead made in France is of a consider-
ably worse quality than what is made in England
or Holland.   A ton  of lead generally gives twenty-
two hundred weight of minium.   It is said, that at
Nuremberg   the  increased  weight  of red lead
amounts to one-fifth of the  metal; this may pro-
bably depend on the method employed, as Watson
thinks.   Neumann  says,  that the best Venetian
minium is made from ceruse, or white lead.
To make a composition, fir rendering canvas, lin-
 en, and cloth, durable, pliable, and water-proof.
               To  make it black.
  First,  the canvas., linen, or cloth, is to be wash-
ed with hot or cold water, the former preferable,
so as to discharge the stiffening which all new can-
vas,  linen, or cloth  contains; when the stiffening is
perfectly  dischargee, hang the canvas, linen,  or
cloth up to dry; when perfectly so, it must be con-
stantly rubbed by the hand until it becomes supple;
it muet  then be stretched in a hollow frame very
tight, and tlu following ingredients are  to be laid
on with a brush for the first coat,  viz. eight quarts
of boiled linseed oil, half an ounce of burnt umber,
a quarter of an ounce of sugar of lead, a quarter  of
an ounce of white vitriol, a quarter of an ounce  of
white lead.
  The above ingredients, except the white lead,
must be ground fine with a small quantity of the
above-mentioned oil, on a stone and  rnuller; then
mix  all the ingredients up with the oil, and add 3
oz.  of lamp-black,  which must be put over a slow
fire in an iron broad vessel, and kept  stirred until
the grease disappears.  In consequence of the can-
vas  being washed and then rubbed, it will appear
rough and nappy: the  following  method must  be
taken with the second coat, viz. the same ingredi-
ents as before, except the white lead; this coat will
set in a few hours,  according to the weather; when
set, take a dry paint-brush and work it  very hard
with the grain of the canvas;  this will  cause the
nap to lie smooth.
  The third  and last coat makes  a complete jet
black, whioh continues its colour:—take three gal-
lons of boiled linseed oil, an ounce of burnt umber,
half an ounce of sugar of lead, a quarter of an ounce
of white vitriol,  half  an ounce of Prussian blue,
and  a quarter of an  ounce of verdigris; this must
be all ground veiy  fine in a small quantity of the
above oil, then add  four ounces of lamp-black, put
through the same process of fire as  the  first coat.
The above are to be laid on and used at discretion,
in a similar way to  paint.  To make lead colour,
the same ingredients asbefore in making theblack,
with the addition of white lead,  in proportion to
the colour you wish to have, light or dark.
               To  make it green.
  Yellow ochre, four ounces, Prussian blue, three
quarters of an ounce, white lead,  three  ounces,
white vitriol, half an once, sugar ot lead, a quarter
of an ounce, p;ood  boiled linseed oil  sufficient  to
make it of a thin quality, so as to go through the
canvas.
               To  make it yellow.
  Yellow ochre, four ounces, burnt umber, a quar-
ter of an ounce,  white lead, six or seven ounces,
white vitriol, a quarter of an ounce, sugar of lead,
a quarter of an ounce,  boiled linseed  oil, as  in
green.
                To make it red.
  Red lead,  four ounces, vermilion, two ounces,
       F
 white vitriol, a quarter of an ounce, sugar of lead,
 a quarter of an ounce, boiled linseed oil as before.
                 To make it grey.
   Take white lead, a little Prussian blue, accord-
 ing to the quality you want, which will turn  it to
 a grey colour; a proportion of sugar of lead and
 white vitriol, as  mentioned in the other colours,
. boiled linseed oil sufficient to make it of a  thin
 quality.
               To make it wlute.
   White lead, four pounds, spirits of turpentine, a
 quarter  of a  pint,  white vitriol, half an  ounce,
 sugar of lead, half an ounce, boiled oil sufficient to
I make it of a thin quality.
   The above ingredients,  of different colours, are
 calculated as near as possible; but, as one  article
 may be stronger  than  another,  which will  soon be
 discovered in using, in that case the person work-
 ing the colour may add a little, or diminish, as he
 may find necessary.
   The same preparation for wood or iron, only re-
 ducing the oil about three quarts out of eight, and
 to be applied in  the same manner as paint or var-
 nish, with a brush.
         ARTISTS' OIL  COLOURS.

             On colouring materials.
  The composition of colours as respects  those
leading tests of excellence, preservation of general
tints, and  permanency of  brilliant hues, during
their exposure for many centuries to the impairing
assaults of  the atmosphere, is a preparation  in
which the ancient  preparers  of  these oily  com-
pounds, have very much excelled, in their skilful-
ness, the moderns.  It is a fact, that  the ancient
painted walls,  to be  seen  at Dendaras,  although
exposed for many  a^es to the open air, without
any covering or protection, still possess a perfect
brilliancy of colour, as vivid a? when painted, per-
haps 2000 years ago.  The Egyptians mixelS  their
colours with some  gummy  substance,  and applied
them detached from each other, without any blend-
ing or mixture.  They appear to have  used six co-
lours,  viz. white,  black, blue,  red,  yellow, and
green; they first covered the canvas entirely with
white, upon which they traced the design  in black,
leaving out the lights of the ground  colour.   They
used  isinium for red, and generally of a  darK
tinge.  Pliny mentions some painted  ceilings  in
his day in the town  of Ardea, which had  been ex-
ecuted at a date prior to  the foundation of Rome.
He expresses great surprise and admiration at their
freshness, after the  lapse of  so  many centuries.
These are, undoubtedly,  evidences of the excel-
lences of the ancients in their art  of preparing co-
lours.  In-the number of them, there is, probably,
not much difference between the  ancient and mo-
dern knowledge. The ancients seem to have  been
possessed of some  colours of which we are  igno-
rant,  while they were unacquainted,  themselves,
with some in those more recently discovered.  The
improvements of chemistry have, certainly, in later
times, enriched painting with a profusion of  tints,
to which, in point of brilliancy at least, no combina-
tion of primitive colours known to the ancients  could
pretend;  but the rapid  fading in the colours of
some of the most esteemed masters of the Modern
School, proves, at least, there is something defec-
tive in their bases,  or mode of preparing them.
This fault is peculiarly evident in many of the pro-
ductions  from our  esteemed master,  Sir Joshua
Reynolds, which, although they have  not issued
from his  pallet more than  40 years, carry an im-
poverishment of surface,  fiom the premature fad-
ing of their colours, so as almost  to lose, in many 
42
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
  instances, the identity of the subjects they repre-
  sent. On this head, (and a most important one it is),
  the superiority of the ancient compounders com-
  pletely carries away the palm of merit.
             To prepare ultramarine.
   Separate from the stone the most apparent parts
 of the ultramarine;  reduce them to the size of a
 pea, and, having brought them to a red heat in a
  crucible, throw them in that state, into the strong-
 est distilled vinegar.  Then grind them with the
 vinegar, and reduce them to an impalpable powder;
 next take of wax, red colophonium, and lapis lazuli,
 an equal  quantity,  say half  an  ounce of each  of
 these three substances ; melt the wax and the co-
 lophonium iu a proper vessel, and add the powder
 to the melted matter, then pour the mass into cold
 water, and let it rest eight days.   Next take two
 glass vessels filled with water, as hot as the hand
 can bear, knead the mass in the water,  and when
 that the purest part of the ultramarine has been ex-
 tracted, remove the resinous mass into the other
 vessels, where finish the kneading to separate the
 remainder; if the latter portion appears to be mr.ch
 inferior, and paler than the former,  let it rest for
 four days, to facilitate  the precipitation  of the ul-
 tramarine, which extract by decantation, and wash
 it in fair water.
   Ultramarine of four qualities  maj' be separated
 by this  process.  The first  separation  gives the
 finest, and as the operation is repeated, the beauty
 of the powder decreases.
   Kinckel considers immersion in vinegar as the
 essential part of the operation.  It facilitates the
 division, and even the  solution of the zeolitic and
 earthy particles soluble in that acid.
   Another method.—Separate the blue parts, and
 reduce them, on a piece of porphyry, to an impal-
 pable powder, which besprinkle with linseed oil,
 then make a paste with equal parts of yellow wax,
 pine resin, and colophonium, say,  eight ounces of
 each; and add to this paste, half an ounce of lin-
 seed oil, two ounces of oil of turpentine, and  as
 much pure mastic.
   Then take four parts of this mixture, and one of
lapis lazuli, ground with oil ou a piece of porphy-
ry, mix the  whole  warm, and  suffer it to digest
for a month, at the end of which, knead the mix-
ture thoroughly in warm water,  till  the blue part
 separates from it,  and at the end of some days de-
cant the liquor.  This ultramarine is exceedingly
 beautiful.
   These two processes are nearly  similar, if we
except the preliminary preparation  of Kinckel,
 which consists in bringing the lapis lazuli to a red
 heat, and immersing it in vinegar.  It may be rea-
 dily seen, by  the judicious observations of Mor-
 graff on the nature of this colouring part, that this
 calcination may  be  hurtful  to  certain .kinds  of
 azure stone.   This  preliminary operation,  how-
 ever,  is a test which ascertains  the purity of the
 ultramarine.
    To extract the remainder of ultramarine.
   As this matter is valuable, some portions of ul-
 tramarine may be extracted from the paste which
 has been kneaded in water; nothing is  necessary
 but to mix it with four  times its weight of linseed
 oil, to pour the matter into a glass of conical form,
and to expose the vessel in the balneum maria of
 an alembic. The water of which must be kept in
 a state of ebullition for several hours.  The liquidi-
 ty of the mixture allows the ultramarine to sepa-
 rate  itself, and the  supernatant oil  is  decanted.
 The  same immersion of*  the  colouring matter in
 oil is  repeated, to  separate the resinous  parts
 which still adhere to it; and the operation is finish-
 ed by boiling it iu water to separate the oil.   The
 deposit is ultramarine;  but  it  is inferior  to  that
 separated by the first washing.
 To ascertain whether ultramarine be adulterated-
   As the price of ultramarine,  which is already
 very high, may become more so on account cf the
 difficulty  of obtaining  lapis lazuli,  it is of great
 importance that painters  should be able to detect
 adulteration.  Ultramarine is pure if, when brought
 to a red heat in a crucible, it stands  that trial with-
 out changing its colour; as  small  quantities only
 are subjected to  this test, a comparison may be
 made, at very little expense, with the part  which
 has not been exposed to the fire.   If adulterated.
 it becomes blackish or paler.
   This proof,  however, may not always be con-
 clusive.   When ultramarine of .the lowest quality
 is mixed with azure, it exhibits no more body than
 sand ground on porphyry would do; ultramarine
 treated with oil assumes a  brown tint.
   Anot/ier method.—Ultramarine is extracted ft om
 lapis lazuli, or azure stone,  a kind  of heavy zeo-
 lite, which is so hard as to  strike fire with steel,
 to cut glass, and to be susceptible of a fine polish
 It is of a bright blue colour, variegated with white
 or yellow veins,  enriched  with small  metallic
 glands, and even veins of a gold colour, which are
 only sulphurets of iron  (martial pyrites): it  breaks
 irregularly.  The  specimens most esteemed  are
 those charged with the greatest  quantity of blue.
   Several  artists have employed their ingenuity on
 processes capable of extracting  ultramarine in its
 greatest  purity: some, however, are contented with
 separating the uncoloured portions  of the stone,
 reducing the coloured part to an impalpable pow-
 der, and then grinding  it for a long time with oil
 of poppies.  But it is certain that, in consequence
 of this ineffectual method, the beauty of the colout
 is injured  by  parts which  are foreign  to it: and
 that it does  not produce  the whole effect  which
 ought to  be expected from pure ultramarine.
  It may  be  readily conceived  that the eminent
 qualities of ultramarine  must have  induced those
 first acquainted with the processes proper for in-
 creasing the merit and value  of it, to keep them a
 profouild secret.  This was indeed the case;  ultra-
 marine was prepared long  before any account of
 the method of  extracting and  purifying  it was
 known.
    To prepare cobalt blue.—Bleu de Thenard.
  Having reduced the ore to  powder, calcine it in
 a reverberatory  furnaee,  stirring it  frequently.
 The chimney of the furnace  should have'a strong
 draught,  in  order  that  the calcination may  be
 perfect, and the arsenical and sulphurous acid va-
 pours may be carried off.   The calcination is to
 be continued until these vapours cease to be disen-
 gaged, which is easily ascertained by collecting in
 a ladle a little of the gas in the  furnace; the pre-
 sence or  absence of the garlic odour determines
the fact.   When calcined, boil  the result slightly
 in an excess of weak nitrous  acid, in a glass ma-
trass, decant the supernatant liquor,  and evaporate
the. solution thus obtained, nearly to  dryness, in a
 capsule of platina or porcelain.   This residuum is
to be thrown into boiling water and filtered, and a
 solution of the sub-phosphate of soda to be poured
into the clear liquor, which precipitates an insolu-
ble phosphate of cobalt.   After washing it well on
 a filter, collect it while yet in a gelatinous form,
 and mix  it  intimately, with eight times its weight
 of alumine, in the  same state—if properly  done,
the paste  will have a  uniform  tint, through its
whole mass. This mixture is now to be spread on
 smooth plates and put into  a  stove; when dry and
brittle, pound it in a mortar, enclose it in a'cover-
 ed earthen crucible, and heat it to  a cherry red, 
                                 ARTISTS' Oil

for half an hour.  On opening the crucible, if the
operation has been carefully conducted, the beau-
tiful and desired  product will be  found.  Care
should be taken that the alumine in  the gelatinous
''orm, I* precipitated from the alum  by a sufficient
excess of ammonia, and that it is completely puri-
fied by washing with water filtered through char-
coal.
          To make artificial Saxon blue.
   Saxon blue  may  be successfully imitated, by
mixing with a divided earth prussiate of iron, at
the moment of its formation and precipitation.
   Into a solution of 144 grains of sulphate of iron, ,
pour a solution of prussiate of potash.
   At the time of the formation of iron, add, in the
same vessel, a solution of two ounces of alum, and
pour in with it, the  solution  of potash, just suffi-
cient to decompose the sulphate of alumine;  for a
dose of alkali  superabundant to the decomposition
of that salt might alter the prussiate of iron.  It
will, therefore, be much  better to leave a little
alum,  which  may  afterwards  be carried off by
washing.
   As soon as the alkaline liquor is added, the alu-
mine precipitated becomes exactly mixed with the
prussiate of iron, the  intensity of which it lessens
by bringing it to the tone of  common Saxon blue.
The matter is then thrown  on a filter,  and  after
being washed in clean water, is dried.   This sub-
stance is a kind of blue verditer, the  intensity of
which may vary according to the greater or  less
quantity of the sulphate of alumine decomposed.
It may be used for painting in  distemper.
            To compose blue verditer.
   Dissolve  the copper,  cold,  in nitric acid (aqua
fortis),  and produce a precipitation of it by means
of quick-lime, employed in such doses that it will
be absorbed by the acid, in order that the precipi-
tate may be pure copper, that is, without any mix-
ture.  When the liquor has been decanted, wash
the precipitate, and spread it  out  on a piece of
linen cloth to  drain.   If a portion of this precipi-
tate, which is  green, be placed on a grinding stone,
and if a little quick-lime in powder be added, the
green colour will  be immediately changed into  a
beautiful blue.  The proportion of the lime added
is from seven to ten parts in a hundred.  When
the whole matter acquires the consistence of paste,
desiccation soon takes place.
   Blue verditer is proper for distemper, and for
varnish;  but it is not fit for oil painting, as the oil
renders it very dark. If used it ought to be bright-
ened with a great deal of white.
             To make Naples yellow.
   Take 12 ounces of ceruse, 2 ounces of the sul-
 phuret of antimony, half an ounce of calcined alum,
 1 ounce of sal ammoniac.
   Pulverize these ingredients,  and having mixed
them thoroughly,  put them into a capsule or  cru-
 cible of earth, and place over it a covering of the
 same substance.  Expose it at first to a gentle heat,
 which must be gradually increased till the capsule
 is moderately red.   The oxidation arising from
 this process requires, at least,  three hours' expo-
 sure to heat before it is completed.  The result of
 this calcination is Naples yellow, which is ground
 in water on a porphyry slab  with an ivory spatula,
 as lion would alter the colour.   The paste is then
dried and preserved for use.  It is a yellow oxide
 of lead and antimony.
   There is no necessity of adhering so strictly to
 the doses as to  prevent their being varied.  If a
 goldt n colour be required in the yellow, the pro-
 portions of the sulphuret of antimony  and muriate
 of ammoniac must be increased.  In like manner,
 if you wish it to be more fusible, increase the quan-
, COLOURS.                                43

titles of sulphuret of antimony and calcined  sul-
phate of alumine.
           To make Montpellier yellow.
   Take 4 pounds of litharge, well sifted, divide it
into four eqnal portions, and put it into as many
glazed earthen vessels.   Dissolve also I pound of
sea salt in about 4 pounds of water.
   Pour a fourth part of this  solution into each of
the four earthen vessels, to form a light paste.  Let
the whole rest for some hours, and when the  sur-
face begins to grow  white, stir the mass with a
strong wooden spatula.   Without this motion  it
would require too great hardness, and a part of the
salt would escape decomposition.
   As the consistence increases,  dilute the matter
with a new quantity of  the  solution; and if this is
not sufficient,  recourse  must be  had to simple wa-
ter to maintain the  same consistence.  The paste
will  then  be very white,  and  in  the course of
twenty-four hours becomes uniform and free from
lumps; let it remain for the  same  space of time,
but  stir it at intervals to complete the  decomposi-
tion of the salt.   The paste is then well washed to
carry off the  caustic soda (soda deprived of  car-
bonic acid) which adheres to it, the mass is put In-
to strong linen cloth and subjected to a press.
   The remaining paste  is distributed in flat vessels;
and these vessels are exposed to heat,  in order to
effect a proper oxidation (calcination), which  con-
verts it into a solid, yellow, brilliant matter, some-
times crystallized in transverse  strise.
   This is  Montpellier  yellow, which  maybe ap-
plied to the same pjrposes  as Naples yellow.
              To prepare carmine.
   This kind of fecula,  so  fertile in gradations  of
tone by the effect of mixtures, and so grateful to
the  eye in all its shades, so useful to the painter,
and so  agreeable to the delicate beauty, is only the
colouring part of a kind of dried insect known un-
der the name of cochineal.
   A mixture  of 36 grains of chosen  seed,  18 grains
of cutour bark,  and  as much alum  thrown into  a
decoction of 5 grains of pulverized cochineal, and
5 pounds of water, gives, at the end of from five to
ten days, a red fecula,  which when dried weighs
from 40 to 48 grai.-s. This fecula is carmine.  The
remaining decoction, which is'still  highly colour-
 ed,  is reserved for  the  preparatipn of carminated
 lakes.
        To prepare Dutch pink from woad.
   Boil the stems of woad in alum water, and  then
 mix the liquor witji clay,   marl or chalk, which
 will become  charged  with the colour of the de-
 coction.   When the  earthy matter has acquired
 consistence, form it into small cakes, and expose
 them to dry.   It is under this form  that  the Dutch
 pinks are sold in the colour shops.
         Dutch pink from yellow berries.
   The small  blackthorn produces  a fruit which,
 when collected green,  are  called  yellow berries.
 These seeds, when boiled in alum  water, form a
 Dutch  pink  superior,  to the former.   A certain
 quantity of clay, or marl, is mixed with the decoc-
 tion, by which  means, the colouring part of the
 berries unites with the earthy matter, and commu-
 nicates to it a beautiful yellow colour.
          Brownish yellow  Dutch pink.
   Boil for an hour in 12 pounds of  water, 1 pound
 of yellow  berries, 1-2 pound of the shavings of the
 wood of the Barberry shrub, and 1 pound of wood-
 ashes.   The  decoction  is strained through a  piece
 of linen clcth.
   Pour into  this mixture  warm, and at different
 times, a solution of  2  pounds of the sulphate of
 alumine in 5 pounds  of water; a slight efferves-
 cence will take place;  and the sulphate  beiuR de- 
44
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 composed, the alumine, which is precipitated, will
 seize on the colouring part.  The liquor must then
 be filtered through a piece of close linen, and the
 paste whichremainson the cloth, when divided into
 square pieces, is exposed on boards to dry. This is
 brown Dutch pink, because the clay in it is pure.
 The intensity of the  colour  shews the quality of
 this pink, which is superior to that of the  other
 compositions.
            Dutch pink for oil painting.
   By substituting for  clay a substance which pre-
 sents a mixture of that  earth and metallic  oxide,
 the result will be Dutch pink of a very  superior
 kind.
   Boil separately 1 lb. of yellow berries, and 3  oz.
 of the  sulphate of alumine in 12 pounds of water,
 which must be  reduced to 4 pounds.   Strain  the
 decoction  through apiece of linen, and squeeze it
 strongly. Then mix up with it 2 pounds of ceruse,
 finely ground on porphyry, and 1 pound of pulver-
 ized Spanish  white.  Evaporate the mixture  till
 the mass acquires the  consistence  of a paste; and
 having formed it into small cakes, dry  them in the
 shade.
   When these cakes are dry, reduce them to powr
 der, and mix them with a new decoction of yellow
 berries.  By repeating this process a third time, a
 brown Dutch pink will be obtained.
   In general the decoctions  must be  warm when
 mixed with the  earth.  They ought not to be long
 kept, as their colour is speedily altered by the fer-
 mentation; care must be taken  also to use a wooden
 spatula for stirring the mixture.
   When only one decoction of wood or  yellow ber-
 ries is employed to colour a given quantity of earth,
 the Dutch  pink resulting from it is of a bright-yel-
 low colour, and  is easily mixed for use. When the
 colouring part of several decoctions is absorbed,
 the  composition becomes brown,  and is mixed
 with more difficulty, especially if the paste  be ar-
 gillaceous: for it is'the  property of this  earth to
 unite with oily and resinous parts, adhere strongly
 to them, and incorporate with  them.   In the latter
 case, the artist must not be satisfied with mixing the
 colour: it ought to be ground,  an operation equally
 proper for every kind of Dutch pink, and even the
 softest, when destined for oil painting.
         To make lake from Brazil wood.
   Boil 4 oz. of  the raspings of  brazil  wood in 15
 pints of pure water, till  the liquor is reduced to 2
pints.   It will be of a dark red colour, inclining to
 violet; but the addition of 4 or 5 oz. of alum will
 give it a hue inclining to rose-colour.   When the
 liquor has  been  strained through a piece of linen
 cloth if 4oz. of the carbonate of soda be added with
 caution, on account of  the  effervescence which
 takes place, the  colour, which by this  addition is
 deprived of its  mordant, will resume its former
 tint, and deposit a lake, which, when washed and
 properly dried, has an exceedingly rich and mel-
 low violet-red colour.
   Another.—If only one half of the dose of mineral
 alkali be employecjLfor diis precipitation, the tint
 of the lake becomes clearer: because the bath still
 retains the undecomposed aluminous mordant.
   Another.—If the method employed for Dutch
 pinks be followed by mixing the  aluminous decoc-
 tion of Brazil wood with pure clay, such as Span-
 ish white and  white of Morat, and if the mixture
 be deposited  on a filter to receive the necessary
 washing, a lake of a very bright dark rose-colour
 will be obtained from the driers.
      Lakes frorp other colouring substances.
   By the same process a very beautiful lake maybe
 extracted from a decoction of logwood.  In general,
 lakes of all colours, and of all the shades of these co-
 Ota's, may be extracted from substances which give
 up their colouring part to boiling water;becaUse it is
 afterwards communicated by decomposition^ to f/ie
 alumine precipitated from sulphate of alumine, by
 m^ans of an alkali; or the tincture  may be mixed
 with a pure and exceedingly white argillaceous sub
 stance, such as real Spanish white, or white  ol
 Morat.
               To prepare rouge.
   Carmine united to talc, in different proportions,
 forms rouge employed  for the  toilette.   Talc is
 distinguished also by the name of Briancon chalk.
 It is a substance composed, in a great measure,  of
»«lay, combined naturally with silex.
   Carmine,  as well as carminated lakes, the co-
 louring part of which is borrowed from cochineal,
 are  the most esteemed  of all the compositions of
 this kind, because their colouring part maintains
 itself without degradation.  There are even cases
 where the addition of caustiu ammonia, which al-
 ters so  many colouring matters, is  employed  to
 heighten its colour.  It is for this purpose that thoae
 who colour prints employ it.
          Carminated lake from madder.
   Boil 1 part of madder in from 12 to  15 pints of
 water, and continue the ebullition till it  be reduced
 to about 2 lbs.  Then strain the decoction through
 a piece of strong linen cloth, which must be well
 squeezed;  and add to the decoction 4 ^.z. of alum.
 The tint will be a beautiful  bright red, which the
 matter will retain if it be mixed with proper clay.
 In this case,  expose the thick liquor which i* thus
 produced,  on a linen filter,  and  subject it to one
 washing, to remove the alum. The lake, when ta
 ken from the driers, will retain this bright primi-
 tive colour given by the alum.
  Anotfwr method.—If in the  process for making
 this lake, decomposition be employed,  by mixing
 with the bath an alkaline liquor, the alum, which is
 decomposed, deprives the bath of its mordant, and
 the lake, obtained after the  subsequent washings,
 appears of the colour of the madder bath, without
 any  addition: it is of a reddish brown. In this ope-
 ration 7 or 8 oz. of alum ought to be employed for
 each pound of madder.
  This kind  of   lake  is exceedingly  fine,  but a
 brighter red  colour may be  given to it, by mix-
 ing the washed precipitate with alum water, before
 drying.
              Improvement on ditto.
  If the aluminated madder bath  be  sharpened
 with acetate  of lead, or with arseniate  of potash,
 the operator  still obtains, by the  addition of car-
 bonate of soda, a rose-coloured lake  of  greater or
 less strength.
      To prepare  a substitute for cochineal.
  The  insects  of the feverfew,  or  mother  wort
 (matricaria parthenium), will produce a substance
 to replace cochineal, in fine  scarlet dyes.  To de-
 tach the insects from the plants, without ^raising
 them, and thereby losing the colouring matter, put
 a quantity, as sixteen pounds of stalks, in a case
 nearly air-tight, and heat it in an oven,  which will
 suffocate the insects. This quantity will yield above
 a drachm of, dried insects.   In an instance where-
 in a comparison  was  made  with cochineal,  two
 similar pieces of woollen cloth were passed through
 the common  mordant bath of muriaU of tin, and
 then one of the pieces in a cochineal bath, and the
 other in a bath prepared with the mother-wort in-
 sects.  The  difference between the  two dyes was
 scarcely perceptible, and they equally resisted the
 chemical re-agents.   Nor were they destroyed by
 sulphuric acid, or oxygenated muriatic acid.
               To make dark red.
  Dragon's blood, infused warm in  varnish, gives
 reds, more or less dark, according to the quantity
 of the colouring resin  which combines with the 
ARTISTS' OIL COLOURS.
45
 varnish.  The artist, therefore, has it in his power
 to vary the tones at pleasure.
   Though cochineal, in a state of division, gives to
 essence very little colour in comparison with that
 which it communicates to water, carmine may be
 introduced into the composition of varnish colour-
 ed by dragon's blood.  The result will be  a pur-
 ple red, from which various shades may be easily
 formed.
                To prepare violet.
   A mixture of carminated varnish  and dragon's
 blood, added to that coloured by prussiate of iron,
 produces  violet.
            To make a fine red lake.
   Boil  stick-lac in water, filter the decoction, and
 evaporate the clear liquor to dryness  over a gentle
 fire.  The occasion of this easy separation is, that
 the beautiful  red coloui  here separated, adheres
 only slightly to  the outsides of  the sticks broken off
 the trees along with the gum lac, and readily com-
 municates itself to boiling water.  Some of this
 sticking matter  also adhering to the gum itself, it
 is proper  to boil the whole together;  for the gum
 does not at all prejudice the colour, nor dissolve in
 ooiling water: so that after this operation the gum
 is as lit for making sealing-wax as before, and  for
 all other uses which do not require its colour.
          To make a beautiful red lake.
  Take any quantity of cochineal,  on which pour
 twice its weight of alcohol, and as much distilled
 water.  Infuse for some  days  near a gentle fire,
 and then filter.   To the filtered liquor add a few
 drops of the solution of tin, and a fine red precipi-
 tate will be formed.  Continue to add a little  so-
 lution of tin every two hours, till the  whole of the
 colouring matter is precipitated.   Lastly, edulco-
 rate the precipitate by washing it in a large quan-
 tity of  distilled water and then dry it.  Monthly
 Magazine.
           To prepare Florentine lake.
   The  sediment of cochineal that remains  in the
 bottom  of the  kettle in  which carmine is  made,
 may be boiled with about four quarts  of water, and
 the red liquor left after the preparation of the car-
 mine, mixed with  it, and the  whole  precipitated
 with the solution of tin.  The red precipitate must
 be frequently  washed over  with water.  Exclu-
 sively of this, two  ounces of fresh cochineal, and
 one of crystals of tartar, are to be boiled with a
 sufficient  quantity of water, poured off clear, and
 precipitated with the solution of tin,  and the pre-
 cipitate washed.  At the same  time two pounds of
 alum are also to be dissolved in water, precipitat-
 ed with a  lixivium of potash, and the  white earth
 repeatedly washed  with  boiling  water.  Penally,
 both precipitates are to be mixed together in their
 liquid state, put upon a filter and dried.  For the
 preparation of a cheaper sort, instead  of cochineal,
 one pound of brazil wood  may be employed  in the
 preceding manner.
           To make a lake from madder.
  Inclose  two ounces t-oy of the finest Dutch mad-
 der in a bag of fine and strong calico, large enough
 to hold  three or four times as much.  Put it into a
 large marble or porcelain mortar, and pour on it a
 pint of  clear soft water  cold.   Press the bag in
 everv direction, and pound and rub it  about with a
pestle, as  much  as can be done without  tearing it,
and when  the water is loaded with colour, pour it
off.  Repeat this process till the water  comes off
 but slightly tinged, for which about five pints will
be sufficient.   Heat all the liquor in an  earthen or
 silver vessel, till it  is near boiling, and then pour
it into a large  basin, into  which  a troy  ounce  of
alum, dissolved  in a pint of boiling soft water, has
been previously put: stir the mixture together, and
while stirring, pour in gently about l£ oz. of a sa-
 turated solution of sub-carbonate of potash, let it
 stand till cold, to settle; pour off the clear yellow
 liquor ; add to the precipitate  a quart of boiling
 soft water, stirring it well; and when cold, sepa-
 rate by filtration the lake, Svhich should weigh half
 an ounce.  Fresh madder root i3 superior to the
 dry.
           To give various tones to laLe.
   A beautiful tone of violet, red, and even of pur-
 ple red,  may  be  communicated to the  colouring
 part of cochineal, by adding to the coloured bath a
 solution of tin in nitro-muriatic acid.  Tne effect
 will be greater, if, instead of  this solution, one of
 oxygenated muriate of tin be employed.
   Another.—The addition of arseniate  of potash
 (neutral arsenical salt), gives  shades which would
 be sought for  in  vain with sulphate  of alumine
 (alum).
 To make a carminated lake by  extracting the co-
          louring part from scarlet cloth.
   To prepare a carminated lake without employ-
 ing cochineal in a direct manner, by extracting the
 colouring matter from any substance impregnated
 with it, such as the shearings  of scarlet cloth.
   Put into a kettle  1 pound  of fine  wood  ashes,
 with 40 pounds of water, and subject the water to
 ebullition for a quarter of an hour: then filler the
 solution through a piece of linen cloth till the li-
 quor passes through clear.
   Place it on the fire ; and having brought it to a
 state  of ebullition, add 2 lbs. of the shearings oi
 shreds  of  scarlet cloth,  dyed  with cochineal,
 which must be boiled  till  they  become  white ;
 then filter the liquor again, and press the shreds
 to  squeeze out all the colouring part.
   Put the filtered liquor into a clean kettle, and
 place it  over the  tire.  When it  boils, pour in a
 solution of 10  or  12  ounces of  alum  in  2 pounds
 of filtered spring water.   Stir  the whole with a
 wooden  spatula, till  the  froth  that is  formed is
 dissipated; and having mixed with it  2  lbs. of a
 strong decoction of Brazil wood, pour it  upon a
 filter.  Afterwards wash the sediment with spring
 water, and remove the cloth filter charged with
 it,  to plaster dryers, or to a bed of dry  bricks.
 The result of this operation will be a beautiful lake,
 but it has not the  soft velvety appearance  of that
 obtained by the first method.   Besides, the colour-
 ing part of the  Brazil wood which unites to that of
 the cochineal in the shreds of scarlet cloth, lessens
 in a relative proportion  the unalterability of the
 colouring part of the  cochineal.   For this reason
 purified potash ought to be substituted for the wood
 ashes.
              To make a red lake.
  Dissolve  1 lb. of the best  pearl ashes  in two
 quarts of water, and filter the liquor through pa-
 per; next add two more quarts of water and a pound
 of clean scarlet shreds, boil them in a  pewter boil-
 er? till the shreds have lost their scarlet colour ;
 take out the shreds and press them, and put the*
 coloured water yielded by them to the other :  In
the same solution boil another pound of the shreds,
 proceeding in the same  manner; and likewise a
 a third and fourth  pound.   Whilst this is doing,
 dissolve a pound and a half of cuttle-fish bone in a
 pound of strong aqua fortis in a glass receiver; add
 more of the hone if it appear to produce any ebulli-
 tion in the aqua fortis; and pour this strained solu-
tion gradually into the other; but if any ebullition
be occasioned,,more of the cuttle-fish bone must
be dissolved as  before, and added till no ebullition
appears in the mixture.  The  crimson  sediment
deposited  by this liquor is the lake : pour off the
 water;  and stir the lake in two gallons  of  hard
 spring water, and mix the sediment in two gallons
 of fresh water;  let this method be repeated four or 
46
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 five times.   If no hard water can be procured, or
 the lake appears too purple, half an ounce of alum
 should be added to each quantity of water  before
 it be used.   Having thus sufficiently freed the lat-
 ter from the salts, drain off the water through a fil-
 ter, covered with a worn linen cloth.  When it has
 been drained to a proper dryness, let it be dropped
 through a pr>per funnel on clean  boards, and the
 drops will  become  small  cones or pyramids, in
 which form the lake must  be dried, and the pre-
 paration is completed.
   Another metliod.—Boil two ounces of cochineal
 in a pint of water, filter the  solution through pa-
 per, and add two ounces of pearl-ashes, dissolved
 in half a pint of  warm water, and filtered through
 paper.  Make a solution of cuttle-bone as in the for-
 mer process; and to a pint of it add two ounces of
 alum dissolved in half a pint of water.  Put  this
 mixture gradually to the cochineal and pearl-ashes,
 aslongasanyebullitionarises,and proceed as above.
   A beautiful lake may be prepared from Brazil
 wood, by boiling three pounds of it for an hour in
 a solution of three pounds cf common salt in three
 gallons of water, and filtering the hot fluid through
 paper; add to this a solution of five pounds of alum
 in three ^gallons of water.  Dissolve three pounds
 of the best pearl-ashes in a gallon and a half of wa-
 ter, and purify it by filtering; put this gradually to
 the other, till the whole of the colour appear to be
 precipitated, and the fluid be left clear and colour-
 less.   But if any appearance of purple be seen, add
 a fresh quantity of the solution of alum by degrees,
 till a scarlet hue be produced.   Then pursue the
 directions given in the first process with regard*fo
 the sediment.  If half a pound of seed lac be add-
 ed to the solution of pearl ashes, and dissolved in
 it  before  its purification  by the  filter,  and two
 pounds of the wood, and a proportional quantity of
 common salt and  water be used in the coloured so-
 lution, a lake will be produced that will stand well
 in oil or water, bat it is not so transparent in oil as
 without the seed lac.  The lake with Brazil wood
 may be also made by adding  half an ounce of an-
 nalto to each pound of the wood; but the annatto
must be dissolved in the solution of pearl-ashes.
  After the operation, tree dryers of plaster, or the
bricks, which have extracted the moisture from the
precipitate, are exposed to the sun, that they may
be fitted for another operation.
            To make Prussian  blue.
  Previous to the making of this substance, aa al-
kali must be prepared as  follows: viz.—Fixed al-
kali must be  burnt in ox's blood,  or with  horn
 shavings, or any. other animal matter.   The salt is
now to be  washed out.  It is  of an amber colour,
 and has the scent of peach blossoms.
  A solution of martial  vitriol, and another of
alum, are put together in a large glass, and the al-
kaline ley poured upon them.   A greenish preci-
pitate is thrown down.   The liquor is filtered in
order to get the precipitate by itself, which is col-
lected, and put into a glass cup.  Upon  pouring a
little marine  acid on this precipitate, it immediate-
ly acquires a fine blue colour.   This part of  the
process is called the brightening.
  Prussian blue may be made without alum, in the
following manner:—Pour a little of the alkaline
ley into a glass,  drop in an acid till no farther ef-
fervescence ensues.   Let a little of the solution of
 martial vitriol  be poured into the ley,  and a fine
 Prussian blue is formed that needs flo brightening.
  The common stone blues are Prussian blue, pre-
 cipitated on large quantities of clay.
  Another method.—A quantity of horns and  hoofs
 are to be mixed with an equal weight of-clippings
 of leather, and the whole submitted to  distillation
 in  a large  iron retort fixed in a reverberator}' fur-
  nace; the oil and impure ammonia, resulting from
  this process, are collected  in a receiver,  and the
  distillation is carried on at a high heat, till no fluid
  or vapour of any kind  come over—the oil and al-
  kali are disposed of to different manufacturers, and
  the black spongy coal remaining in the retort is the
  only part made use of in the preparation of  the
  Prussian blue.
    Ten pounds of this coal, and 30 pounds of com-
 J mon potash, are reduced together to a coarse pow-
 I der, and heated to redness in an  iron pot; by de-
 i grees the mass is brought into a  state of semi-fu-
 I sion, in which it is suffered to continue 12 hours,
  when the matter gives  out a strong odour of sul-
  phur; it is then taken out red hot, and thrown into
  a  boiler of  water,  where it undergoes  ebullition
  for about half an hour.   The clear liquor is sepa-
  rated by filtration,,  and the  residue is  boiled in
  fresh parcels of water,  till all the saline matter is
  extracted.  These different  lixivia are then mixed
  together.  Four lbs. of alum, and one and a half of
  sulphate of iron, are dissolved in  warm water, and
  this  solution is added  to the former; a copious
  whitish  precipitate is immediately  deposited,
  which being collected  and washed,  acquires, by
  exposure to the air, a beautiful blue colour.
    Another.—Boil 6 pounds of clippings of leather,
  6  pounds of hoofs and horns, and  10 pounds of
  common potash, together in an iron pot to dry-
  ness; mix the residue with  two  pounds of crude
  tartar, and,  by means of a strong fire, bring it into
  fusion.   The lixiviation is conducted in the usual
  way,  and a solution of 5 pounds of sulphate of iron,
  and 15  of alum being  added,  a  precipitate takes
  place, which is the  Prussian blue.
    Another.—This colour is made in the following
  manner: two parts of purified potass are most inti-
! mately  blended with three  parts of dried finely
  pulverized bullock's blood.
I   The mass is first calcined  in a covered crucible,
  on a moderate  fire, until no smoke  or flame ap-
i  pears; and it is  after this brought  to a complete yet
  moderate ignition: or,   equal parts of potass and
|  finely-powdered coals, prepared from bones, horns,
  claws, &c. are mingled and heated  in a covered
  crucible to a moderate redness. This done, either
  of these two calcined masses is, after Woling, lixi-
  viated with boiling water, and the  lixivium filtered.
  Now make a solution of one part of green vitriol
  and two parts of alum;  and  add  to it, while yet
 hot, the above lixivium, little by  little; and sepa-
 rate  the greenish-blue precipitate,  which  then
 forms, by means of a filter. If, afterwards, a slight
  quantity of  diluted muriatic acid is  affused upon
 this precipitate, it assumes a beautiful dark blue
  colour.   The operation is terminated by edulco-
 rating and drying the pigment thus prepared.
          To prepare a superb liquid blue.
    Put into  a small matrass or common phial an
  ounce of fine prussiate of iron (Prussian blue) re-
 duced to powder, and pour  over  it from 1£ oz. to
 2  oz. of concentrated muriatic acid.  The mix-
  ture  produces an effervescence, and the prussiate
  soon assumes the consistence of thin paste.  Leave
 it in  this state for 24 hours;  then  dilute it with  8
 or 9 ounces of water, and preserve the colour thus
 diluted  in a bottle well  stopped.
   The intensity of this colour may be lessened, if
 necessary, by new doses of water.   If the whole of
 this mixture be poured into a quart of water; it
 will  still exhibit a colour  sufficiently dark for
 washing prints.
   This colour,  charged  with its mordant, requires
 the use of  gum-water,  made of  gum tragaeanth.
 Mucilage of gum arabic does not possess sufficient
 consistence.
   This colour,  applied  with gum-water,  and co 
                                   ARTISTS' C

vered, when  dry, with copal varnish, would form
very beautiful foil.
             To make blue verditer.
  Into 100 pounds  of whiting, pour the copper-
water, and stir them together every day for some
hours, till the water  grows pale; then pour that
away, set it by for other use, and pour on more of
the green water, and  so till the verditer be made;
which, being taken  out, is laid on large pieces of
chalk in the sun, till it be dry and fit for market.
  Another method.—Fully  saturate the  liquor
which is used in parting with silver, which is pre-
cipitated by  adding very pure copper.   This ni-
trous solution of copper must  be  properly diluted
with very pure water;—distilled is  the  best; and
the copper precipitated  on  chalk properly pre-
pared.  The colour and chalk must be well mixed
together and  properly dried.
  Another.—To a  solution of nitrate of copper,
add lime  or lime-water, as long as any green pre-
cipitate falls  down.   Filter the solution, and dry
the precipitate, which must be ground,  and kept
quite free from dust.  The green colour will, by
this time, be  converted into a beautiful blue.
                 To make blue.
  A diluted solution of sulphate of indigo.
                 To make pink.
  Cochineal  boiled with supertartrate  of potash
and sulphate  alumine, or a decoction  of Brazil
wood with sulphate alumine; the colour may be
varied by the addition of carbonate potash.
                To make green.
  The acetic  copper (verdige) dissolved in acetous
acid, forms an elegant green.
                To make purple.
  A decoction of Brazil wood  and  logwood af-
fords,  with  carbonate of potash,  a permanent
purple.
              To make orange lake.
  Boil 4 ounces of the best annatto and 1 pound of
pearl ashes, half an hour,  in a gallon of water, and
strain the solution through paper.  Mix gradually
with this  1^ lb. of alum,   in another gallon of wa-
ter, desisting when  no ebullition attends  the com-
mixture.  Treat the sediment in the manner al-
ready directed for other kinds of  lake, and dry it
in Square bits or lozenges.
             To make a yellow lake.
  Take a pound of turmeric root, in fine powder,
3 pints of water, and  an  ounce of  salt  of tartar;
put all into a glazed earthen vessel, and boil them
together over a clear gentle fire, till the water ap-
pears highly  impregnated and  stains  a paper to a
beautiful yellow.   Filter this liquor, and gradually
add to it a strong solution of rcche alum,  iu water,
till the yellow matter is  all curdled and precipi-
tated.  After this, pour the whole into a filter  of
paper, and the water  will run oft', and  leave the
yellow matter behind.  Wash it with fresh water,
till the. water comes off insipid, and then is obtain-
ed the beautiful yellow called lac^ue of turmeric.
  In this manner make a lake of  any of  the  sub-
Btances that are of a  strong texture, as madder, log-
wood, &c. but it will  not succeed in the more ten-
der species, as the flowers of roses, violets, &c. as
it destroys the nice  arrangement of parts in those
subjects, en which the colour depends.
          To  make another yellow lake.
  Make  a ley of  potashes and  lime sufficiently
strong; in this boil, gently, fresh broom-flowers,
till they are white;  then takeout  the dowers, and
put the ley to boil in earthen vessels over the fire;
add as much  alum as the liquor will dissolve: then
empty  this ley into a vessel of clean water, and it
will give a yellow colour at the  bottom.  Settle,
and decant off the clear liquor.  Wash this pow-
der, which is found at the bottom, with more wa-
                                            47

ter, till all the salts of the ley are washed off; then
separate the  yellow  matter, and  dry it in the
shade.
                To make a yellow.
   Gum guttse and terra merita give very beautiful
yellows, and readily communicate  their colour to
copal varnish, made with turpentine.  Aloes give
a varied and orange tint.
                 Lemon yellow.
   A beautiful lemon yellow may be formed by fol-
lowing the prescription of the old  painters,  who
mixed together the oxides of arsenic, (realgar and
orpiment).  But these colours, which may be imi-
tated in another manner, have the disadvantage ot
being of a poisonous  quality. It will, therefore,
be better to substitute in their room, Dutch  pink
of Troyes and Naples yellow.  This composition
is proper for distemper  and for varnish.   When
ground, and mixed with the varnishes indicated for
the preceding colour, the result will be  a bright
solid colour, without smell, if an alcoholic varnish
be applied for the last stratum.
             To make Naples yellow.
   There are two processes given for making this
colour.  1st. One pound of antimony, 1^ pound-ot
lead, I oz. of alum, and 1 oz.  of common salt.
   2d. 1^ oz. of  pure  ceruse, 2 oz.  of  diaphoretic
antimony,  £ oz.  of calcined alum,  and 1 oz. ot
pure sal-ammoniac. The ingredients are to be well
mixed together, and calcined in a  moderate heat
for three hours,  in a  covered crucible, till it be-
comes barely red hot, when the mass will become
of a beautiful yellow colour.  With  a larger  por-
tion  of calx of antimony and sal ammoniac, the yel-
low verges towards gold colour.
   Glass may be  tinged yellow with the  above  pre-
paration.
            To make a patent yellow.
   It  is prepared by triturating minium or red ox-
ide of lead and  common salt together, and  then
exposing them in a crucible to a gentle heat.   In
this process, the salt  is decomposed, and  the acid
unites  with the oxide  of lead, and forms  the pa-
tent yellow. The alkaline base of the salt  remains
in the compound, which is to be carefully washed
and crystallized.
   Muriate of lead tinges vitreous matters of a yel-
low colour.  Hence the beautiful glazing given to
Queen's ware. It is composed of 80  pounds of mu-
riate of lead, and 20  pounds of flints  ground to-
gether very fine, and'mixed with  water, till the
whole becomes as thick as cream.   The vessels to
be glazed are dipped  in the glaze, and suffered to
dry,  when they are exposed  to a sufficient degree
of heat to vitrify the surface.
            To make  Chinese yellow.
   The acacia, an Egyptian thorn, is a species of
mimosa, from which the  Chinese make that  yel-
low which bears washing in their silks and stuffs,
and appears with so much elegance in their paint-
ing on paper.  The flowers  are  gathered before
they are fully opened, and put into an earthen ves-
sel over a gentle heat,  being stirred  continually
until they are nearly dry, and of a yellow colour:
then to half a  pound of the flowers,  a sufficient
quantity of rain-water is added, to hold the flowers
incorporated together.  It is then to be boiled un-
til it becomes thick, when it must be strained.  To
the liquor is added, half an ounce of common alum,
and one ounce of calcined oyster-shells, reduced to
a fine powder.   All these are mixed together into a
mass. An addition of a proportion of the ripe seeds
to the  flowers,   renders  the colours  somewhat
deeper.  P'or  making the deepest yellow, add a
small quantity of Brazil wood.
             To make a pearl white.
   Pour some distilled water into a solution of nt-
»1L COLOURS. 
 48                              UNIVERSAL I

 trate  of bismuth, as long as precipitation takes
 place; filter the solution, and wash the precipitate
 with distilled water as it lies on the filter.  When
 properly dried, by a gentle heat, this powder  is
 what  is generally termed pearl white.
              To make a green colour.
   Mix  a  solution of common salt and blue vitriol
 in water, by putting copper  plates therein, and a
 green precipitate will be gradually formed.
             To make Scheele's green.
   Dissolve 2 pounds of blue vitriol in 6 pounds of
 water, in a copper  vessel;  and, in another vessel,
 dissolve 2 pounds  of  dry white potash,  and  11
 ounces of white arsenic, in 2 pounds of water. When
 the solutions are perfect, pour the arsenical ley into
 the other gradually, and about 1 pound 6 ounces of
 good green precipitate will be obtained.
                Brut >swick green.
   This is obtained from the solution of a precipi-
 tate of copper in tartar and water, -which, by eva-
'poration,  yields a transparent  cupreous  tartar,
 which is similar to the  superfine Brunswick green.
                Ne~w green colour.
   Dissolve in a small quantity of hot water, 6 parts
 of sulphate of copper; in another part, boil 6 parts
 of oxide of arsenic with  8 parts of potash, until it
 throws out no more carbonic acid;  mix by degrees,
 this hot solution with the  first, agitating continu-
 ally until the  effervescence  has  entirely ceased;
 these  then form a precipitate of a dirty greenish
 yellow, very abundant; add to it about three parts
 of acetic acid, or such t. quantity that there may'be
 a slight excess  perceptible to the  smell  after the
 mixture; by degrees the precipitate diminishes the
 bulk,  and in a'few hours there  deposes spontane-
 ously  at the bottom of the liquor, entirely disco-
 loured,  a powder of a  contexture slightly crystal-
 line,  and of a very beautiful green; afterwauls the
 floating liquor is separated.
   This process has been repeated on a large scale
 by using arsenic potass which was prepared with 8
 parts  oxide of arsenic in place of 6.   The liquors
 were  concentrated; some hours  after the mixture
 there  was formed  at  the surface a psllicle of a
 superb  green colour; the  whole was exposed to
 heat,  and a heavy powder  precipitated which was
 washed, to free  it from a great  excess of arsenic.
 1'he green thus obtained was  magnihque.—Annals
 de Chimie, Sept. 1822.
              To improve green paint.
   Take 14 ounces  of crude potash, 14 drachms of
 crude white arsenic.
   Boil  them in 2 gallons of soft water, until quite
 dissolved; then put the liquor into a cast iron ves-
 sel to  coat and settle;  draw off  the  liquor clean
 from  the sediment, and put it into a vessel that
 will hold 200 gallons; add to  it six gallons of clean
 soft water, cold; take one pound of Roman vitriol,
 and boil it in two gallons ot soft water till dissolved;
 putting the  solution into an open vessel  till quite
 cold; then add it gradually to the aforesaid  solu-
 tion of fixed alkali, stirring it well all the time, and
 it will produce a genuine green  oxide, with which
 proceed in the usual way of mineral green.  It is
 essential in this preparation to make the mineral
 green without using  caustic alkali  which  is the
 general way of manufacturing it for this purpose;
 because the caustic alkali acts powerfully on the
 vegetable quality of linseed oil used  in this opera-
 tion,  and renders it mucilaginous.
   To prepare the precipitate of copper to mix with
  the  aforesaid oxide, take one  pound ot  Roman
 vitriol, and boil it till dissolved  in two gallons ot
  soft water;  at the  same time dissolve in another
  vessel half a pound of the first soft American pearl-
  ash-  put the solution of vitriol boiling hot, into a
  vessel that  will hold 10 or 12 gallons; then add to
   t gradually the solution of pearl-ash, boiling hot;
ECEIPT BOOK.

 to be well stirred all the time.  On mixing the so-
 lution together, it will cause a strong effervescence,
 if the pearl-ash is good, it will be enough to pre-
 cipitate  the vitriol,  which will be  known by the
 effervescence immediately subsiding, and the preci-
 pitate falling to the bottom of the vessel and thereby
 producing a fine green colour: when settled, draw
 off the clear liquor, then put it into bags, made of
 canvas, to filler, and when well  drained lay it on
 chalk-stones,  to draw a further quantity from it;
 then put it into a stove to dry.
   To mix the mineral substances in linseed oil.
  Take  1 lb. of  the genuine mineral green, pre-
 pared and well powdered, I lb. of the  precipitate
 of copper, 1$ lb. of refiners' blue verditer, 3  lbs.
 of white lead,  dry powdered, 3 ounces of  sugar ol
 lead, powdered fine.
  Mix  the whole of these ingredients in linseed
 oil, and  grind  them in a levigating mill, passing it
 through until quite fine; it will thereby produce a
 bright mineral pea green paint,  preserve a blue
 tint, and keep  any length of time, in any climate,
 without  injury, by putting oil or water over it.
  To use this colour for house or ship painting:
 take 1 lb. of the green colour paint, with  1 gill of
 pale boiled oil; mix them well together, and this will
 produce a strong pea-green paint: the tint may be
 varied at pleasure, by adding a further quantity of
 white lead, ground in linseed oil.  This colour will
 stand the weather, and resist salt water; it may
 also be  used  for flatting rooms,  by adding three
 pounds of white lead,  ground in half  linseed oil;
 and  half turpentine, to one pound  of  the  green,-
 then to be mixed up in turpentine spirits, tit  tor
 use.  It may also be  used for painting Venetian
 window  blinds, by adding to 1 lb. of the green paint
 ten ounces of  white  lead, ground  in  turpentine-
 then to be mixed up with turpentine varnish  for
 use.  In all  the aforesaid preparations it will re-
 tain a blue tint, which is very desirable.  When
 used for blinds, a small quantity of Dutch pink may
 be put to the  white  lead if the colour is required
 of a yellow cast.—Repertory, 1814.
               An excellent azure.
  Take  2 oz.  of quicksilver;  sulphur,  and ammo-
 niac salt, cf each half oz.  Grind all together,  and
 put the contents to digest in a matrass over a slow
 heat: increase the fire a little, and when an azure
 fume arises, take the matrass from the fire. When
 cool, these will make as beautiful an azure as ultra
 marine.
           To make a fine brown pink.
   Bruise, and boil in 3 quarts of water,  4 oz. of
 French berries, to the reduction of one half. Strain
 them through  a cloth, and put in  this juice a dis-
 cretional quantity of whiting, pounded and sifi>d
 into a subtle powder, so as to make a thick paste,
 which put into small tied bags, and set it to dry on
 tiles.
   When dry,  use it with gum;  and to render it
 finer, put in some gamboge.
               To imitate jlesh coiour.
   Mix a little white and yellow together; then add
 a little more red than yellow.  These form an ex-
 cellent imitation of the complexion.
 A white j'or painters which may  be preserved fo) -
                      ever.
   Put into a pan 3 quarts of linseed oil,  with an
 equal quantity of brandy, and 4 quarts of the best
 double distilled vinegar, 3 dozen of whole new-laid
 eggs, 4 lbs. of mutton  suet, chopped small: cover
 all with a lead plate, and lute it well.  Lay  this
 pan in the cellar for  three weeks, then take skil-
 fully the white oft", and dry it.  The dose  of  this
 composition  is 6 ounces of white to 1  of bismuth.
                To clean pictures.
   Take the picture  out of the frame; lay a clean
 towel on it, for 10 or  14 days.  Keep continually 
WATER COLOURS.
49
wetting it, until it has drawn out all the filthiness |
from the picture: pass some linseed oil over  it,
which has been a long time seasoned in the sun to
purify it, and the picture will become as  lively  on
its surface as new.
  Another method.—Put into 2 quarts of the oldest
ley, a quarter of a pound of Genoa soap,  rasped
very fine, with about a pint of  spirit of wine, and
boil all together.  Then strain it through a cloth,
and let it cool.   With a brush dipped in  the com-
position  rub the picture all over, and let it dry;
repeat this process, and  let it dry again.  Then
dip a little cotton in oil of nut, and pass it over  its
surface.  When perfectly dry, rub it well  over
with a warm cloth,  and it will appear of a beauti-
ful freshness.
Compound for receiving the colours used in encaus-
                 tic painting.
  Dissolve 9 oz. of gum arabic in 1 pint  of water;
add 14 oz. of finely powdered mastic, and 10 oz.
of white wax, cut in small pieces; and, whilst hot,
add by degrees 2 pints of  cold spring water:  then
strain the composition.
  Another method.—Mix 24 ounces of mastic with
gum water,  leaving out the wax; and when suffi-
ciently beaten and dissolved over the fire, add,  by
degrees, 1^ pints of cold water, and strain.
  Or, dissolve 9 ounces of gum arabic in 1$ pints
of water,  then add 1 pound of white wax   Boil
them over a slow fire, pour them  into a  cold ves-
sel, and beat it well together.  When this is mix-
ed with the colours,  it  will  require more water
than the others.  This is used in painting, the co-
lours being mixed with tiiese compositions as with
oil, adding water if necessar)-.   When the paint-
ing is finished,  melt some white wax, and with  a
hard brush varnish the painting, and when cold,
rub it to make it entirely smooth.
       Grecian method of painting on wax.
  Take an ounce of white wax,  and one ounce of
gum mastic, in drops, made into powder; put the
wax into a glazed pan, over a slow fire, and when
melted  add the mastic;  then  stir the same until
they are both incorporated.  Next throw the paste
into water, and when hard take it out, wipe it dry,
and beat it  in  a mortar; when dry pound it in a
linen ploth,  till it is reduced to  a fine powder.
Make some strong gum water, and when painting
take a little of the powder, some colour,  and  mix
them all with the gum water.   Light colours re-
quire but a small quanc>ty of the powder,  but more
must be put in  proportion to the darkness of the
colours, and to black there should be almost  as
much of the powder as of colour.
  Having mixed the colours, paint with  water,  as
is practised in  painting with water colours,  a
ground on the wood  being first painted, of some
proper colour, prepared as described for the pic-
ture. When the painting is quite dry, with a hard
brush,  passing  it one way, varnish it with white
wax, which is melted over a slow fire till the pic-
ture is varnished.  Take  care the  wax  does not
boil.  Afterwards  hold the picture before a  fire,
near enough to melt the wax, but net to  run; and
when the varnish is entirely cold  and hard, rub it
o-ently with a linen cloth.   Should the varnish blis-
ter, warm the picture again very slowly, and the
bubbles will subside.
 WATER COLOURS USED IN DRAWING.

                  Implements.
  Those  necessary  for  drawing  are a drawing-
board, a ruler,  compasses,  charcoal, black  lead
pencils, penknife,  porte-crayons,  black,  white,
and red chalks,  Indian ink, crow-quill  pens, ca-
      G
mel's hair pencils, boxes of colours, paper of se-
veral sorts, and portfolios.
  Drawing-boards are used  to fix the paper so
that it may not shift,  and also to strain it, to pre
vent the colours when laid  wet on  the paper from
causing it to swell, so as to become uneven-   The
simplest sort is made  of a deal board framed, with
a strong piece across each end to prevent warping.
Upon this the paper may be fixed with pins, wa-
fers, or sealing-wax,  or it may be strained with
paste or glue.
  Drawing compasses are instruments of brass and
steel, for dividing lines, and laying down measures
from scales,  &c; a  steel pen is also useful for
drawing lines, cleaner than they can be done by a
eommon pen.
  Black-lead pencils are either hard  or soft, the
best are without any grit, not too soft, and cut easily
without breaking; those that are gritty and brittle
will not answer so well.
  Indian ink.—The best is stamped with Chinese
characters, breaks with a glossy fracture, and feels
smooth when rubbed  on the shell  or plate.   The
inferiorTdnd, made in this country, may be easily
known by its grittiness.
  Hair pencils are made of camel's-hair; if they
come to a point, when moistened, without split-
ting, they are good.
  Drawing paper.—That which is made without
any wire  marks,  and called  wove paper, is  the
best;  it is made of various sizes and thicknesses.
Middle tint paper is of a brownish or of a grey co-
lour, and is used for drawing upon with black and
white chalk.
  Crow pens are used for fining the outline with
ink after it has been determined by the pencil.
           To draw in water colours.
  This  is an art capable of affording the highest
delight; since no  mode of representation can disw
play the appearances of Nature with greater truth:'
it is an art which  has of late been  carried to un-
precedented success; and may  be said,  at present,
to be the most perfect species of painting which is
in practice.  To this  the facility of its materials
mainly contributes.—It is  not attended with the
embarrassments to which oil painting is liable, but
proceeds,  by  ready and uninterrupted progress, to
its completion.
  The general or simple colours, and the various
species of each fit for painting in water colours, are
as follow:—
  Whites.—Ceruse, constant  white, white lead,
Spanish white, flake white, spodium. •
  Blacks.—Burnt  cherry   stones, ivory  black,
Keating's black, lamp black;
  Greens.—Green  bice,   green verditer,  grass
green, sap green, verdigris distilled.
  Blues.—Sanders blue, terre blue, blue verditer,
indigo, litmus, smelt, Prussian blue,  light ditto,
ultramarine,  ultramarine ashes, blue bice.
  Browns.—Spanish  brown,  Spanish  liquorice,
umber,  bistre, burnt  terra  de Sienna,  unburnt
ditto.
  Reds.—Native  cinnabar, burnt ochre, Indian
red, red lead, minium,  lake, vermilion, carmine,
red ink, Indian lake.
  Yellows.—English ochre, gall stone, gamboge,
masticot, ochre de luce, orpiment, Roman ochre,
Dutch pink, saffron water, king's yellow, gold yel-
low, French berries.
       To prepare water colours.—White.
  Use  white  lead, and clarify it with white wine
vinegar; after the white is settled, pour off the
vinegar,  and  wash  it  with water,  thus: Put the
powder into a glass of water, stir it, and presently
pour the water oft", while it is  white, into another
glass; when it is  settled, pour off the  water, and 
50
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
an excellent white will be obtained; to which add
as much gum as is necessary to give it a gloss.
  Another.—Take a  pound of the shreddings of
glove leather,  and steep them in water; boil them
with twelve quarts of water, till it wastes  to two;
strain  t through a linen cloth, into a  well glazed
earthen pan; this is called glue or size, and proper
to use with colours in candle light pieces; to know
if this  is strong enough, try if il is stiff and firm
under the hand.
  The glue being melted, reduce some white chalk
to a powder, and while it is hot add such a quan-
tity of the chalk as will bring it to  the consistency
of a paste, letting it steep for a quarter of an hour;
stir it with a brush made of hog's bristles.
  In order to make this white brighter, add more
glue.  Be careful to observe that every  layer is
dry before putting on another.   If the  artist works
upon wood,  he must put on a dozen; but six or
seven are sufficient  if the paper is thfok.  After-
wards dip a soft brush in some water, drain it with
the fingers; rub the work with it in order to make
it smooth.   When the brush is full of white, wash
it again; and also change the water when  it is  too
white   .Or use a wet linen rag instead of a brush.
                    Yellows.
  It> some objects there may frequently be seen a
shining, like that of gold, through  colours of red,
Dlue, or green, such as some sorts  of  flies or bee-
tles, and the cantharides.  This  may be well imi-
tated by laying some leaf-gold on the  shaded side
of the drawing, giving: a littleto the light side.  To
lay on  the  gold-leaf,  press it smooth and close
with cotton, after having  washed it with strong
water;  but take care that in laying on the gum,  the
limits are not exceeded through which the gold is
to appear.  In this case,  the gold  is only to shine
through the transparent colour,  which is to be laid
over it.
  As leaf-gold will not receive water-colours  re-
gularly, procure some water of ox-gall, and with
this  liquor stroke oyer the  gold  leaf,  by  which it
will receive any colour the artist is  desirous of lay-
ing over it.
  In some manuscripts there may be seen gold
letters,  which  seem to rise above the surface ot the
paper.   The composition  which  raises  them is
made of vermilion and the white of an egg, beaten
to the consistence of an oil, and fixed  to the paper
with gum-rarabic; on  th.s figurative letter,  wash
some gum-water, with a camel's-hair pencil;  lay
on the gold  leaf close with some cotton; and when
dry, rub it again with cotton, and  burnish it with
a dog's tooth,  when  it will  appear as if cast in
gold-
   There is also  another way of working in gold,
which is performed by shell gold.  Cover the sha-
dy parts with vermilion, before using this gold,
and  when  it has been  rectified with spirit of wine,
lay it on;  when dry burnish it as before.
   In laying on this gold, leave  the lights without
it,  as  it will  appear to much  greater advantage
than if all the  objects were covered; but  provided
the whole performance should be covered, the best
way of setting it off is to trace over the shady parts
with gall-stone, or the yellow made of French L_-r-
ries, heightened with minium.
   Gamboge is one of the mellowest colours nature
'ras produced; it is of so mild a temperature, that
when it is touched with any fluid,  it instantly dis-
solves;  it is productive of a variety  of most agreea-
ble tints,  and  will generally  shade itself, though
sometimes it requires help.
   Gall-stone is a very rich deep yellow, tending
towards a brown;  it is exceedingly useful in many
cases,  needs  but little gumming  or grinding,
works free, but will not shade itself.
   If we cut the roots of barberries, and put them
 into a strong lixivium of pearl-ashes and  water, a
 very agreeable yellow will proceed from them.
   Another fine  transparent yellow is  made  by
 boiling the root of a mulberry-tree, well cleansed,
 in the foregoing lixivium.
   Yellow ochre makes a very good pale  yellow;
 and being ground with gum water proves extreme-
 ly useful.
   Another very agreeable yellow  is made by inr
 fusing the plant celadine in water;  gently  press it,
 and add to the liquor some alum-water;  then let it
 boil.
      To extract yellow from French berries.
   In a quart  of the preceding lixivium, boil 2 oz.
 of French berries,  till  the liquor  is of  a  fine yel-
 low; strain it from the yellow  berries,  and when
 cold it is fit for use.   To the berries put a pint ot
 the  same lixivium,  and boil it till the liq  lor is a9
 strong as gall-stones;  with  which  shade any yel-
 lows: this boil till it comes to a brown; with the
 addition of a little ox-gall, it will serve to shade
 the  gt;ld-Ieaf.
   A yellow  may be made by infusing  saffron in
 pure water.  When  this is steeped in  rectified
 spirit of wine, there is  nothing higher; but it is
 very apt to fly unless it is highly gummed.
   A good yeilow,  for the illumination  of prints,
 may be extracted from the roots of ginger; which
 make a good green,  when mixed with transparent
 verdigris.
   Those yellows, called English and Dutch pinks,
 are  made with  French  berries, ground to a fine
 powder, and then boiled.
   King's yellow, a fine body-colour, is much used
 in heightening the ochre for gold lace, Sic.
   Orange colour is made of a mixture of  vermil
 ion  and gamboge, the latter most predominant.
                      Reds.
   Red-lead, or minium,  is a strong heavy colour.
 The following are the directions tor preparing it:
 Put four ounces in.a glass, to a quart of rain water,
 and when it has been thoroughly stirred,  pour oft
 the  water; by a frequent repetition of this, therg
 will remain at the bottom of the glass a beautiful
 red, when dry, which is to be used with gum-wa-
 ter.  When  the colour  has been  thus  prtjppred,
 not  more than twenty  grains will remain out of
 four ounces.
   Caitnine  affords  the  highest  and most perfect
 crimson,  and is the most beautiful of all reds, for
 with this colour and lake the shades may be made
 as strong as wanted.   This colour should never be
 purchased but in day-light; for if not good, it will
 spoil the work.
                     Lakes.
   Lake is a fine transparent colour, not much in
 ferior to  carmine;  but  in painting with  carmine
 on that part of the print on which the light is supr
 posed to strike, lay on the first tint as light as pos-
 sible, working it stronger af it grows darker,  and
 touch it it. the darker parts with lake.
   To make  lake, prepare a lixivium,  made with
 the ashes of  vine-twigs,  and to three pints add a
 pound of the best ground Brazil-wood;  boil it till
 halt the  lixivium is evaporated; strain it  off;  boil
 it again with the addition of four ounces  of fresh
 Brazil-wood, two  ounces  of cochineal,  half an
 ounce of terra merita, and a pint of water; evapo-
 rate as before;  add half an  ounce  of burnt  alum
 (reduced to an impalpable powder), and a quarter
 of  a drachm of arsenic; dissolve  them  in it, by
 stirring it with a stick; when settled strain it.  To
 give this a body, reduce two cuttle-fish  bones to a
i powder,  and putting it in,  let it dry leisurely.
|| Grind it inaquantity of water, in which let it steep;
'I strain it through a cloth, and making it into a few 
WATER COLOURS.
51
takes,  set it by  for use, after drying it on a piece
of i narble.
  If this is wanted redder, add some of the juice
of a lemon ;  and to make it deeper, add  oil of
tartar.
                 Another lake.
  Boil the shreds of superfine scarlet cloth in a ley
made of the ashes of burnt tartar; when sufficient-
ly boiled, add some cochineal, powdered mastic,
and alum;  boil this again, and strain it through a
bag several times.  The first time, the bag  must
be strained from top to bottom; and the remaining
gross matter being taken out,  let the  bag be well
washed; after this strain the liquor through the
bag again,  when a paste will remain on the sides,
which  divide into small cakes, for use.
  Another.—Steep four ounces of the best Brazil-
wood  in a pint  and  a half of the finest distilled
vinegar, for three weeks at least, though the longer
it remains  the better it is; seethe the whole in bal-
neum maris, till it boils up three or four times;
let  it settle for a day or two; put it to an ounce of
powdered alum, and into a clean pan with the li-
quor; let it remain for twenty-four hours; heat the
composition, and stir it till it is cold;  when it has
stood about twelve hours, strain it, and add two I
cuttle-fish  bones, prepared as before.
                    Crimson.
  In twelve  ounces of pale stale  beer, boil one
ounce  of ground Brazil-wood, till the colour is as
strong as desired; strain, it through a linen cloth,
and bottle  it up for use.  If wanted to bring this
colour  to a body, take some dried ox-blood, re-
duced  to a powder, and mix it with the colour.
  A fine crimson may be extracted from the berry-
 bearing spinach,  which,  being pressed, affords a
 very agreeable juice;  to  this add a fourth part of
 alum;  boil it, and when cold it is fit for use.
  Or a very beautiful  red may be extracted from
 the red beet root,  baked with a little strong'vine-
 gar and alum; when cold it is fit for use.
   Another.—Put twenty or more grains of bruised
 cochineal  into a gallipot, with as many drops of
 the ley of tartar as will make it give forth  its co-
 lour; add  to this mixture about half a spoonful of
 water,  or more,  and a very agreeable purple will
 be  obtained.  Reduce some alum to a very fine
 powder, put it to the purple liquor, and a beautiful
 crimson will appear; strain it through a fine cloth:
 use it  as soon as possible; for though this is a co-
lour which,  if soon used, looks extremely well,
 yet by long standing it is subject to  decay.
   Indian lake is far superior to any  other  of the
 kind,  for the deep shades of red of  all kinds, and
 works as free as gamboge.  The best is brought
 from  China in  pots, and has the appearance of
 raspberry-jam, but very bitter to the  taste:  it re-
 quires no gum.
                    Purple.
   Take eight ounces of logwood,  a pint of rain
 water, and an ounce of alum; infuse it well over a
 slow fire,  in a well glazed pan or pipkin, for about
 2-t hours;  add $ ounce of gum-arabic, let it stand
 for a week:  strain it through a piece of fine cloth.
 Keep  it close,  or it will mould.
   Another.—A  redder purple  may  be made by
 adding to 1 oz.  of the above, four ounces of Brazil-
 wood, and a pint of. stale beer; boiling it till the
 liquor is as stnng as is desired.  It may be made
 darker by adding more logwood.
   The richest purple is made by blending carmine
 and Prussiau blue, cr indigo, to whatever shade is
 wanted.
                     Blues.
   Ultramarine is the best and brightest blue. Pre-
 pare it by heating six ounces of the lapis lazuli till
 it is red;' cool it in strong vinegar;  grind it with a
stone and muller  to  an impalpable powder; then
make a composition of bees'-wax,  resin, linseed-
oil, and turpentine,  of each three ounces: incor-
porate the  whole together over a slow fire, till it
is near boiling; pour them into a pan well g'.azed.
This is called the paste of ultramarine.  The lapia
lazuli being prepared,  add to it  an equal quantity
of the pastil, or paste; mix them together thorough-
ly, and let  them remain twelve hours.  To extract
the ultramarine from the paste, pour clean water
upon it;  on pressing the paste with the hands,  the
ultramarine will come  out for its reception: place
a glass tumbler under the  hand; let  it settle in
this water till the ultramarine sinks to the  bottom.
  If the colour seems foul, cleanse it thus: Dissolve
some tartar in water; add as much of it to the ul-
tramarine as will cover it; let it stand twelve hours;
wash it in  warm  water, when the colour  will  be
well clarified and perfectly clean.  Let the ultra-
marine be of a high colour, and  well ground.
  Next to ultramarine in beauty, is Prussian blue,
but it does not grind kindly with water, on account
of its oily substance.
  Blue bice is a colour of a very good body, and
flows very agreeably in the pencil; wash it accord-
ing to the rules laid down for ultramarine.
                    Blacks.
  The proper blacks for  water  colours are  as
follows:
  Ivory  black, which is prepared in the following
manner: Let the ivory black be thoroughly ground,
and there will naturally proceed from it  a liquor-
of an  oily substance;  mix as much of it as will
make it work freely in the pencil.   It has a fine
gloss, and  is extremely serviceable in painting  of
shining objects.
  Indian ink is a very good black, and  of great
service,  as it may be laid to any shade, and will
always shade itself;  on which account it  is often
used for drawings.
                    Greens.
  Sap-green is a  colour extremely serviceable, and
the best green for water colours,  being of a gummy
substance, and diluting easily in water.  It produces
an endless  variety of tints, and has the advantage
of shading itself.
  A sea or artificial green,  is made by mixing in-
digo and sap-green, which may be made lighter by
adding more or less indigo;  it is a very servicea-
ble colour, easily worked, and productive  of many
tints.  This colour, as well as  sap-green, shades
itself.    The  indigo must be well ground before
you mix it.
  Another is made with indigo and gamboge, well
ground together : extremely useful in  painting of
trees, grass, vegetables, &c,  With the addition of
sap-green, it is very  serviceable in flowers,  and
shading-in of garments.
                    Browns.
   Burnt and unburnt teiva  de Sienna, are the
warmest browns for front grounds, dead leaves, &c.
work verv free, and are  of general use.
   Bistre'is also a good and serviceable colour.—
The best sort is very bright and close: as it is a
colour difficult to work ot itself, mix a little Span-
ish liquorice with it, that will mellow  and takeoff
its harshness.  It must  be  well ground;  and the
higher it is gummed, the better for use.   i
   Spanish liquorice is productive of a  great, varie-
ty  of brown tints,  of  a very agreeable colour; it
will not shade itself, but works as free as any gum
colours by diluting it in fair water.
  A brown mixture is made by incorporating sap-
green and  carmine,  which is of  an extraordinarily
soft nature; it is a concur extremely serviceable in
painting flowers in water colours.
  Another, by blending vermilion and bistre tho- 
52
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
 roughly: the bistre must be extremely well ground
 before it is incorporated with the vermilion, and it
 will produce a very good brown.
      Directions for preparing mixed colours.
   Ash colour.—Ceruse, Keating's black and white,
 shaded with cherry-stone black.
   Bay.—-Lake and flake white, shaded  with car-
 mine ; bistre and vermilion shaded with black.
   Changeable silk.—Red lead and masticot-water,
 shaded with sap-green and verdigris.
   Another.—Lake and yellow, shaded  with lake
 and Prussian blue.
   Cloud colour.—Light masticot, or lake and white,
 shaded with blue verc'iter.
   Another.—Constant white and Indian ink, a little
 vermilion.
   Another.—White with a little lake and blue ver-
 diter, makes a very agreeable  cloud colour, for
 that part next the horizon.
   Crimson.—Lake and white, with a little vermil-
 ion, shaded with lake and carmine.
   Flame colour.—Vermilion and orpiment, height-
 ened with white.
   Another.—Gamboge, shaded with minium and
 red lead.
   Flesh colour.—Ceruse, red lead, and lake, for a
 swarthy complexion, and yellow-ochre.
   Another.—Constant white and a little  carmine,
 shaded  with Spanish liquorice, washed with car-
 mine.
   French green.—Light  pink  and Dutch bice,
 shaded with green pink.
   Glass grey.—Ceruse, with a little blue  of any
 kind.
   Hair  colour.—Masticot,  ochre, umber, ceruse,
 and cherry-stone  black.
   Lead colour.— Indigo and white.
   Light blue.—Blue  bice, heightened with flake
 white.
   Another.—Blue verditer, and white of any sort,
 well ground.
   Light green.—Pink, smalt, and white.
   Another.—Blue verditer and gamboge.
   Another.—Gamboge and verdigris.  The chief
 use of this green is to lay the  ground colours for
 trees, fields, &c.
   Lion tawney.—Red lead, and  masticot, shaded
with umber.
   Murrey.—Lake and white lead.
   Orange.—Red  lead and a little masticot, shaded
with gall-stone and lake.
   Orange tawney.—Lake, light pink, a little mas-
ticot,  shaded with gall-stone and lake.
   Pearl colour.—Carmine, a little white, shaded
 with lake.
   Popinjay green.—Green and masticot; or pink
and a little indigo, shaded with indigo.
   Purple.—Indigo,  Spanish  brown, and  white ;
 or blue  bice, red and white  lead;  or blue bice
and lake.
   Russet.—Cherry-stone black and white.
   Scarlet.—Red  lead and lake, with or without
vermilion.
   Sea-green.—Bice, pink, and white, shaded with
pink.
   Sky colour.—Light masticot and white, for the
lowest and lightest parts ; second, red  ink  arid
white; third, blue bice and white; fourth, blue bice
alone.   These are all to be softened into one ano-
ther at the edges, so as not to appear harsh.
   Sky colour for drapery.—Blue bice and ceruse,
or ultramarine and white, shaded with indigo.
 ,  Straw colour.—Masticot and a very little lake,
 shaded with Dutch pink.
   """- :*>-m colour.—Indigo, white, and lake; or fine
Uutch "bice and lake, shaded  with  indigo; or lit-
   I
  mus, smalt,  and bice, the latter  most predomw
  mint.
    Water.— Blue and white, shaded with blue, and
  heightened with white.
   Another.—Blue verdigris,  shaded with indigo,
  and heightened with white.
          Directions for using the colours.
   The pencils must be fast in the quills, not apt to
 part in the middle.
   Before  beginning, have all the colou"s ready
 and a palette  for the conveniency of mixing them;
 a paper to lay under the hand, as well as to try the
 colours upon  ; also a large brush, called a fitch, to
 wipe off the dust from them.
   Being now prepared, proceed in the painting;
 which,  if a  landscape, lay on first dead  colours
 freely  all over the  piece leaving no part unco-
 vered.
   Then proceed with the lighter parts, as the sky,
 sun-beams, &c.: then  the yellowish beams, with
 masticot and  white;  next the  blueness of the sky,
 with blue verditer alone; for purple clouds, mix
 only lake and white, making the colours  deeper
 as they go upwards from the horizon, except in
 tempestuous skies.  The tops of distant mountains
 must be worked so faint, that they may seem to lose
 themselves in the air.
   Bring the colours forward  as the distance de-
 creases; painting the first ground next the horizon,
 downwards, of a bluish sea-green; and as you ad-
 vance forward, of a darker green, till you come to
 the fore-ground itself; which, as it is the darkest
 part of all, with dark green, worked so as to give
 the appearance of shrubbeiy, &c.
   In painting  trees, having first laid a little verdi-
 gris green for  a dead colour, proceed with working
 it so as to give a leafy appearance.
   Bring some of the leaves forward with masticot
 and white; for the trunk,-work  the brown with sap-
 green; if oak  trees are introduced, lay on some
 touches to express leaves of ivy twined about it.
   All distinct  objects are to be made imperfect, as
 they appear to the eye.
   In painting flesh, the following are the best di-
 rections for preparing the  work so as  afterwards
 more readily to produce the effects of colours seen
 in nature.
   Take flake-white and a little lake, blend them
 together,  aud  with that lay the ground colour;
 then shade with red ochre, cherry-stone black, and
 a  little lake,  mixed together,  touching the  lips,
 cheeks, &c. with a tint  of carmine, and heighten
 the flesh  with white and  a little  carmine;  Re
 member never to heighten it with pure  white,
 which will always give it a cold appearance.
  It may be recommended to the student in gene-
ral, whatever is the subject of his drawing, not tc
finish any one  part first, but to work up every part
gradually alike, until he finds nothing wanting to
complete the whole.
  Wherever he lays on strong  touches, he must be
careful in those places to bring up his work to an
equal roundness and strength, tempering and sweet-
ening the colours with a sharper pencil than  the
first, that no lumps or harsh edges may be left, but
that the  shadows may  all  lie  dispersed, soft and
smooth, and gliding gently into one another.
  The occasional roughness of the work need  not
discourage the artist; for  it is easily softened by
degrees with other tints and shadows: observing
only to sweeten,  mellow,  and  heighten them  ac-
cording as the  light happens to fall.
  A method has been lately discovered of combm
ing the effects  of water colours with those of cray-
on-painting by  means of wax crayons.  It is an in-
genious and pleasing mode of practice. 
WATER  COLOURS.
53
      To prevent the colours from cracking.
  Boil 2 ounces of the best and clearest glue, with
1 pint of clear water, and a half an ounce of the
finest alum, till dissolved.  This is a very service-
able liquor, with which temper those colours, in-
tended for sky, as it will prevent them from crack-
ing.
           To make a solution of gum.
  Dissolve an ounce of white  gum arabic, and half
an  ounce of  double refined  sugar, in a  quart of
spring-water; strain it through a piece of muslin,
then bottle it off for use, keeping it free from dust.
  Another method.—Take some of the whitest sort
of gum arabic, then bruise and  tie it in a piece of
woollen cloth, steep it in spring water till dissolved.
If too stiff,  which is known by the shining of the
colours, add more water; if too weak, more gum.
With this water temper most of the colours, using
such a quantity of it, that the colours,  when dry,
being touched, will  come off.
           To keep flies from the work.
  Having prepared  the gum water, add a little co-
loquintida, which, if the work should be exposed,
will keep it from being damaged by the flies.
             To prepare alum water.
  Take 4  ounces  of alum, and a pint of spring-
water; boil it till the alum is thoroughly dissolved;
filter it through blotting paper, and it is fit for use.
  Before laying on  the colours, take some of this
water hot, and with a sponge  wet the back of the
paper, which, if not good, must be wetted three or
four times.  This will not  only prevent the sink-
ing of the colours,  but  will  also keep them from
fading, and  give  an additional  beauty and lustre.
Remember that the paper must be dried each time
before wetting it again.
              To make lime-water.
  Put some unslacked lime in a  well-glazed pan ;
cover it with pure water; let  it remain so for one
day,then strain off the water, and keep it for use. By
the means of this water, sap green may be changed
into blue.
        To make a  lixivium of pearl ashes.
  Steep half an ounce of pearl ashes in clear water
for one  day; strain off the water as clean as possi-
ble/  This infusion will prove extremely servicea-
ble in many colours, particularly Brazil wood; to
which it will give an additional beauty and lustre.
           7 b restore decayed colours.
  Take distilled rosemary water, or  essence  of
rosemary, and with a few drops temper the colours,
which, however dead or faded,  will recover thejr
primitive brilliancy.  This essence will  prevent
the bubbles which are  troublesome in  grinding
white and umbre.
         Liquid gold for  vellum painting.
  Having procured some of  the  finest leaf gold,
grind it with strong gum-water, adding more gum-
water as is found requisite; when thoroughly ground
temper it  with  a small  quantity of sublimate of
mercury, binding it in  the shell with a little dis-
solved gum; spread it equally over the shell, and
use it with water only, for gilding fans, &c.
            Liquid silver for  the same.
  The manner of making this is the same as that
of liquid gold, only remembering to temper it with
glaire of eggs, and  not water.
             To make glaire  of eggs.
  Beat the whites with a spoon till they rise  in a
foam; let them stand  twelve  hours,  and they will
be clarified into good glaire.
          To restore rusted liquid silver.
  If  silver becomes rusty,  cover that part of the
performance with the juice of garlic, which will
recover it effectually.
        Ground to lay silver or gold upon.        I
  Take the new shre~ds of parchment, (as they are !
 I far preferable to glove leather) and boil them in a
 ! quart of spring water till consumed to a pint; strain
 | the size from  the  shreds, and put it into a well
 | glazed pan; use it before it is cold.   Be  careful,
 I when laying on the  silver or gold, that the size is
 j not too moist, nor too dry, for in either case there
 | will be  danger  of impairing the work.
           To prevent gloss on drawings.
    Too much gum in the  composition of  ink em-
  ployed  in drawings is the  cause  of  the  offensive
  gloss which arises, in different degrees, from what
  is called Indian ink, according  to the caprice  or
  ignorance  of the  manufacturer.   This  evil  is
  irremediable, made with such ink, without the risk
  of defacing their surfaces.   But it may be avoided
  by the artist composing his own  ink, by an union
  of ivory or lamp black, with a  small portion  ol
  Prussian blue,  or indigo, for a blue black; and the
  same blacks united with raw or burnt umber, bis-
  tre, Vandyke, or any other brown instead of the
 | blue for a brown black.  These  should be incor-
 I porated by mixing them in weak gum water, (or
  perhaps malt-wort would answer better), first levi-
  gating them very fine in common  water, on a mar-
  ble slab.  When dried to a paste,  the glutinous
  matter  should be, and not till  then, well mixed
  with them.  The proper  strength may be readily
  known by a fe,w trials, and that will be found suf-
  ficiently  strong  which  binds the   composition
  enough to prevent rubbing off by the touch. Indian
  ink drawings should be handled as little as possi-
  ble, for the slightest rubbing produces a certain
  degree  of gloss, and frequent  repetitions ot  it
  make the gloss more apparent and decided.
   To prepare wash colours for maps.  For  yellow.
    Dissolve  gamboge in water: or French berries
  steeped in water, the liquor strained, and gum ara-
  bic added.
                     For red.
    Steep Brazil dust in vinegar, with  alum.
    Or, dissolve  litmus in water,  and add  spirit of
  wine.
    Or, steep cochineal in water, strained, and add
  gum.
                    For blue.
    Dilute Saxon blue with  water.
    Or, to the solution of litmus add distilled vine-
  gar.
                    For green.
    Dissolve distilled water in verdigris,  and add
  gum.
    Or, dissolve  sap green in water, and add gum.
  Litmus is rendered green by adding p. p. m. kali
  to its solution.
        To keep water-colours from sinking.
  .  Boil 4 ounces of alum in a pint of spring water,
  till it  is  thoroughly dissolved;  filter it  through
  brown paper, and keep it for use.
    Before laying on the colours, take a sponge, and
  wet the back of the paper with this water  while it
  is hot This will not only prevent  the colours from
  sinking, but will likewise give them an additional
  beauty and lustre, and preserve them from fading.
  If the paper is not good it must be washed  three or
  four times with this water, drying it every  time.
    If the prints  are to be varnished, wash them all
  over with white starch, before beginning to lay on
  the colours.
    To prepare charcoal and chalks for drawing.
    Saw the finest grain charcoal into slips ot the
  size wanted, and put them into a pipkin of melted
  bee's-wax; put them near a slow  fire for  half an
  hour, take them out, and when they  are perfectly
  cool they are fit for use.  The advantages  of these
  pencils  are, that they can  be made at the most
I  trifling expense, and that drawings made with it tra
!  are as permanent as ink.
                                      E  2 
54                             UNIVERSAL

  The above  process  will harden both  red and
black chalks, and make them permanent also.
      lo make carminated akefor c ayons.
 . The decoction which  floats over the coloured
precipitate known by the name of carmine, being
still highly coloured, the addition of sulphate of
alumine, which is afterwards decomposed by a so-
lution of carbonate of soda, disengages the alumine,
and the latter, in precipitating itself, carries with
it the colouring part of the bath.  According to the
dose prescribed tor the composition, 2 or 3 ounces
of alum may be employed.   The greater or less
quantity of this substance, the base of which seizes
on the colouring fecula, determines the greater or
less intensity observed  in the colour of the lake re-
sulting from it. When the process is conducted on a
small scale, and by way of trial, the  precipitate is
received on a filter.  It is then washed with warm
water, and when it has acquired the consistence of
soft paste, it is formed into small cakes or sticks. It
is this substance  which constitutes  the beautiful
carminated lakes used for crayon painting.
  Another, in the large way.—Iu operating on a
large  scale, the whole of the alkaline liquor judged
necessary,  after a few trials, to decompose  the
quantity of alum intended to be employed, may be
divided  into three or four separate portions.   As
many cloth filters as there are alkaline portions,
being then prepared, the first portion of alkaline
liquor is poured out, and the  coloured precipitate
resulting from it is received on one  of the filters :
the coloured liquor which passes through the filter
receives the second portion of alkaline liquor, and
the'latter produces a second  precipitate, which is
received on a  new filter.  This operation is then
continued till the last  portion of alkaline  liquor
has been employed.  The lakes  deposited  on the
filters are  washed in warm water; and when drain-
ed, are carried along with their  cloth to the plas-
ter dryers, or to beds of new bricks. These dryers,
made of wrought plaister in the form of thick ba-
sins, attract the moisture  of the paste, and shorten
the process.  The first precipitation gives  a  car-
minated lake of  a very high colour; the second is
somewhat higher; and the rest go on decreasing in
the same manner.
  By  these means the artist obtains from the same
bath shades of colour varied to infinity, much mel-
lower, and more delicate than those resulting from
a mechanical  mixture  of white clay in different
doses, and lake saturated with colour by one ope-
ration.
     To preserve pencil and chalk drawings.
  Get a pan or tub,  sufficiently  spacious to admit
the drawing horizontally; fill it  with clean  water;
and  run  the drawing  through in that direction:
then lay it on something flat to dry.   (Do not lay
the d"aw.ing,  while  wet, on  any coloured wood,,
such as mahogany, &cc. which will stain the paper
in streaks.)  This will take oft'the loose lead.
  Secondly.  Fill the same vessel a second time,
with  rather more than one-third new milk, and
the remaining part clean water, through which run
the drawing again horizontally, and leave it to dry
as before.
   Should  milk be scarce, mix a little (in the pro-
portions above-mentioned), in a  tea-cup,  and run
the drawing lightly over with a camel-hair pencil,
the water having already taken off the superfluous
lead,  and, in some degree, fixed  the other;  but be
pat ticularly light with the pencil, never touching
the drawing twice in the same place.
      To preserve black lead pencil drawings.
   Apply a thin wash of isinglass, which will pre-
vent rubbing off of either black lead, or of hard
black chalk.   The simple application of skimmed
milk will  produce the same effect.  In using the
ECEIPT BOOK.

latter, lay the drawing flat, upon the surface of the
milk; then taking it up expeditiously, hang it, by
one corner, till  it drains and dries.   The milk
must  be  perfectly free from cream,  or it  will
grease the paper.
              To fix crayon colours.
   Paste  your paper  on  canvas,  stretched on a
frame in the usual way.  When  your drawing  is
finished, dilute drying oil with spirits of turpen-
tine,  and apply  the mixture to the back of the
drawing, or on the canvas.  In a few  days, when
perfectly dry, give the face of the picture a coating
of the same, and your crayon drawing will become
(as the discoverer terms it) an oil painting.
       To make artificial black lead pencils.
   Melt  together fine  Cumberland  black-lead in
powder  and shell  lac.  This compound is to be
repeatedly powdered and re-melted until of  uni-
form  composition; it is then sawn into slips,  and
mounted as usual. Pencils thus made are uniform,
and of great strength, and there is no waste of ma-
terials.
        To make English drawing pencils.
    They  are  formed  of black-lead alone, sawn
into slips, which  are fitted into a groove made in a
piece of wood, and another slip of wood glued over
them: the softest wood, as cedar,  is made choice
of, that the pencil  may be the easier cut; and a
part at one end, too  short to be conveniently used
after  the rest has been worn and  cut away,  is left
unfilled with the black-lead, that there may be no
waste of so valuable a commodity.
   These pencils  are greatly preferable to others,
being accompanied with some degree of the same
inconveniences,  and being very unequal in their
quality, on account of different sorts of the  mine-
ral being fraudulently joined together in one pen-
cil, the fore-part  being commonly pretty  good,
and the rest of an inferior  kind.   Some, to avoid
these imperfections, take the finer pieces of black-
lead itself, which they saw  into slips,  and fix for
use in port-crayons: this is doubtless  the  surest
way of obtaining black-lead crayons, whose good-
ness can be depended on.
          To make crayonsfo' drawing.
   Mix to  one pint  of boiling water 3 ounces ol
spermaceti, 1  lb.  of  fine ground long ash with the
colouring matter a sufficient quantity; roll out the
paste, and when half diy, cut it in pipes.
   Another method.—This  preparation has given
birth to a particular kind of painting. In the large
way,  it consists  in  mixing  up with the coloured
bath  an argillaceous matter of the first quality, and
subjecting the whole to careful evaporation, or in
exposing the liquid paste on dryers of plaster with
a clean cloth to prevent the  crayon from adhering
to the dryer.
   This method is more  economical than the che-
mical process; but it  requires a very nice choice
In the quality of the white desired  for the opera-
tion,  and in particular the precaution of previous
washing, to removethefine sandy parts with which
the finest white clays are mixed.
   If the composer of crayons be also  a  manufac-
turer of carminated  lakes,  and prefer  to mix the
bath  of cochineal with white clay, well  washed,
and of the first quality,  he may  obtain the same
shades by diluting with one measure of the decoc-
tion of cochineal, different quantities of clay.   For
example, a pound of decoction saturated with co-
lour, and a quarter  of a pound of clay;  the same
quantity of decoction,  and half a pound of clay; a
pound, and so on.
    To enlarge or diminish the size of a picture.
   Divide the  sides  of the  original with a pair oi
compasses into any  number of equal parts,  and
rule lines across with a black lead pencil from side 
WATER COLOURS.
55
to side, and from top to bottom.  Then having the
paper of the size intended, divide it into the same
number of squares, either larger or less,  to enlarge
or contract it.  Then placing the  original before
you, draw square by square the several parts, ob-
serving to make the part of the figure  you draw
fall in the same part of the squares in the copy as
it  does in the  original.   To  prevent  mistakes,
number the squares both  of the original and copy.
  To prevent the necessity of  ruling across the
original, which  may injure it, take a square pane
of crown glass and divide its sides,  and also its tcp
and bottom into equal parts;  then from  each divi-
sion draw  lines across the glass with lamp black
ground with gum water,  and divide the glass into
squares.  Then lay the glass upon the  original,
and having drawn the same number of squares upon
the paper, proceed to copy  into each square on the
paper  what appears  behind each corresponding
square of the  glass.   Instead of a glass, an open
frame with threads stretched across will answer.
      To take a copy of a print or drawing.
  Take a sheet of the finest white paper, wet it
over with clean  linseed oil on one  side, and wipe
the oil off clean, then let it stand and dry, other-
wise it will spoil a printed picture by the soaking
through of the oil.  Having thus prepared the pa-
per, lay it on any printed or painted  picture, and
it may he seen perfectly through; theu with a black
lead pencil copy with ease any picture on the oiled
paper, then put it upon a sheet of  clean white pa-
per, and with  a little pointed tracer or burnisher,
go over the strokes drawn  upon the oiled paper,
and the same will be very neatly and exactly drawn
upon the white paper.
To make a scale for  dividing the vanishing  lines
                 in perspective.
  Take a sheet of paper,  and having made an hori-
zontal line, fix on a point,  as a centre, called the
point  of  sight.  Let this  point be  crossed  with
diagonal lines, in various directions.
  1 he instrument thus prepared, will form a sure
guide to an unexperienced eye, in taking the pros-
pective lines  of all objects  placed at right angles,
such as streets,  buildings,  churches,  apartments,
by merely placing it under the leaf to be  drawn on.
To render the instrument more complete, a plate
of glass should oe added of the same size as the
leaf of the drawing book on which the dark lines
should be drawn.
        To mix water colours for animals.
                    Horses.
   Chesnut- brown.—Red ochre and black, mixed
together, shaded with black, heightened with red
ochre and while.
   Grey.—Black and white  mixed,  shaded  with
black, white,  and bistre;  heightened  with pure
water.
  Black.—Black lightly laid on, shaded withKeat-
ing's black and bistre; heightened with masticot.
                     Lions.
   Colour much the same manner as hPg^j adding
lake in the ground colour.
                     Bears.
  Brown-ochre,  red-ochre,  and  black,  mixed;
shaded with bistre and ivory-black.
                     Wolves.
  Spanish liquorice and black, shaded with black.
                     Asses.
  Black and white mixed; or add a little brown
ochre shaded  with black.
                   Elephants.
  Black,  white, and  Spanish  liqaorice  mixed;
shaded with  black  and  bistre; the inner part  of
the nose vermilion and white, shaded with black.
                 Monkeys, &c.
  Dutch pink aud black,  heightened  with masti-
| cot and white: the face, black and bistre mixed,
| as also their feet, and below their bellies, shaded
| with black and  pink mixed with a little brown-
I ochre.
i                     Stags.
   Brown-ochre,  shaded with bistre towards the
 back; the neck  an'd belly  white,  the mouth and
 ears inclining to red, the  hoofs black,  and legs
 shaded with black.
          To paint fruit in water colours.
   Apples.—'Thin masticot  mixed  vith  verdigris,
 shaded with brown ochre.
   Pears.—Masticot, deepened and mellowed with
 brown-ochre; the bloom the same as the apple.
    Cherries.— Vermilion and lake,  shaded wiUi
 carmine, heightened with vermilion  and white.
   Strawberries.—White; draw it over  with ver-
 milion and lake,  shaded with fine lake, heightened
 with red  lead and masticot, mixed; and,  after,
 with white; stipple them with white and thin lead
 only.
   Blue Grapes.—Dark purple, shaded with blue;
 the bloom bice.
    White  Grapes.—A  mixture of verdigris and
 masticot,  shaded with  thin verdigris, heightened
 with masticot and white.
   Peaches.—Thin masticot, shaded with brown-
 ochre;  the bloom lake, heightened with white.
                 To paint flowers.
   Auriculas.—A tender wash, of gamboge, shaded
 with sap  green  and carmine,  blended  together.
 Round the centre leave a broad white space, which
 shade with Indian ink and green sap, mixed; stip-
 ple the  gamboge with a purple  extracted from
 logwood;  the cup,,  in  the  inside-, strong yellow,
 shaded with Dutch pink, or gall-stones;  stipple it
 with white,  darkening the white  gradually with
 Indian ink, i»s. the shade increases*
   Anemones.-^-h. thin wash of  gamboge, shaded
 with bistre, or carmine and sap green blended to-
 gether; the stripes carmine, shaded with the same,,
 indigo in the  darkest parts, or stipple with it. The:
 leaves sap green, shaded with indigo and French
 berries: the stalk brown.
    Yellow  Crown Imperials.—A thin wash of gam-
 boge, upon that  another of washed red lead,  shad-
 ed with carmine.  The leaves sap green, shaded
 with indigo and  French berries.
   Roses.—A light tiut of pure carmine, over which
 another equally light of Peruvian blue, which will
 give the flowers  a tint of that bloom which appears
 in nature; proceed with darker shades of carmine,
 of the best sort.  In the darkest parts.of the flower,
 add a little indigo, which  will give a  roundness
 and body  to your work.—rlf the seeds are seen, lay
 on some gamboge, shaded with gall stone; the up-i
 per side of the leaves sap green, shaded  with indi-
 go and  French  berries mixed;  the under part,
 white indigo  and sap green,  mixed; shaded with
 the same.  The  stalks brown, made of  sap green
 and carmine,  shaded with indigo.
   Rose-buds.—A pale wash of carmine, shaded with
 a stronger wash  of the same; let the hatchings be
 extremely tender,  preserving that  transparency
 and sweetness the flower has by nature. The stalks
 and leaves begin and finish with sap green, after
 which, a slight wash of carmine.
    Orange Crown Imperials.—A thin wash ol red
 lead, the light shades carmine, the daik  vermilion
 and bistre mixed; the seed  the same as the flower.
 The leaves and stalks as the preceding.
   Honey Suckles.—The inside of the petals white
 shaded  with  sap green, or gamboge and bistre;
 which insides are to be shewn by curling the leaves
 back at the ends, or splitting them. The outsides.
 a thin wash of ermine and lake m'xed, shaded with
 carmine,—indigo for the darkest shades.  It is to 
tECEIPT BOOK.
 56                            UNIVERSAL E

 be observed, that some of the flowers growing on
 the  same stalk are inclinable to purple, others tr
 carmine; the style and buttons,to be seen at the end
 of the flower, are of a faint green.   The stalks,
 sap-green  and  carmine; the leaves,  sap green,
 shaded with indigo and  French berries.
         To draw birds in water colours.
  Frzles.—Black and brown, shaded with indigo;
 the leathers heightened by brown ochre and white;
 the beak and claws saffron, shaded with bistre; the
 eyes with vermilion, heightened with masticot or
 saffron, shaded with vermilion.
   Turkeys.—Both  male  and female:—the  back
 black and white, mixed gradually, shaded  off to a
 white under the  belly; sprinkled and shaded with
 black.
  Swqns.—White shaded with black; the legs and
 bills black; the eyes yellow, a ball in  the midst.
   Geese.—Ceruse  shaded  with black; the legs
 black; the bill red.
  Pheasants.—White and black mixed; the eyes
 like those of the falcon; the legs  Dutch pink, shad-
 ed with black.
   Owls.—Ochre mixed  with white,  in different
 shades; the legs yellow ochre.
  Rules for painting landscapes in water colours.
  The most useful colours for landscapes are, lake,
 burnt ochre, gamboge, indigo, or light red, sepia,
 Prussian blue, and terra de sienna.
  Skies are tinted with indigo; and the distant hills
 may also receive a finish wash of the same  colour.
 Buildings, ground, and road, should be tinted with
 ochre.  The bushes and grass may be forwarded
with a tint  of gamboge.  The  distances  may be
heightened with a tint of  lake, and the dark sha-
dows of the building may be tinted with sepia.
  In retiring hills, tint the whole with weak blue,
then the nearer ones with indigo and lake; then add
a little gamboge to the next, keeping  one subordi-
nate to the other; the most  distant being  lost  in
the aerial tints.  Clouds  should  be tinted with se-
pia.   Opposing masses .of trees  should be tinted
with sepia and indigo, and distant trees with grey.
The lights warmed with gamboge  and ochre, and
their  shades deepened with indigo.   Force is ac-
quired by adding sepia to  indigo, in the cold parts,
and sepia with lake to the glowing parts. Breadths
of light are  obtained by  destroying the scattered
lights with greys.
            To prepare a landscape.
  The student is first to sketch the outlines faintly
 with a black lead pencil, and then proceed with
 the hair pencil to tint and shadow, without the in-
tervention of the crow-pen,  or  without any other
 fixed outline than what the tints  and shadows pro-
 duce.
  The mixture of the grey colour is made of burnt
 umber,  indigo, and  lake; each  to be rubbed in a
 saucer separately, and then mixed in due propor-
 tion in a fourth saucer, so as to  produce the exact
 colour, which may be called a warm grey.
  The colour is then to be thinned with water for
 the light tints, as the sky, distances, &c.  Deeper
 are to be used for the darker shadows, and  near
 parts, finishing off,  and  softening with water, till
 ihe exact effect is produced.
  He may then proceed to colour according to the
 following directions.
   Colours to be used.—Coal  brown, rosy madder,
 Prussian blue, indigo, ultramarine, brown sienna,
 Roman ochre, yellow ochre, Venetian red, gam-
 boge, burnt sienna,  lamp black, Vandyke  brown,
 purple lake.
              To select the colours.
  The clouds are produced by a thin mixture of in-
 digo and lake.
  The azure sky, towards the horizon, is of lake
 and  gamboge,  and should be done with a clear
 brush.
   The lower, or horizontal clouds, are tinged with
 ultramarine.
   The distant lands are of ultramarine and lake.
   The distant trees are also of ultramarine, with a
 wash of indigo, gamboge, and burnt sienna.
   The middle  distance trees are produced  by a
j thin wash of burnt sienna and gamboge.
   The nearer trees are tinted with a wash of burnt
 sienna, indigo, and gamboge; towards the shadows
 more of indigo is incorporated.
   The grass is.washed with a mixture of burnt sien-
 na, indigo,  and gamboge; that in shadow has rather
 more indigo.
   The road and paths are produced by a mixture
 of lake, burnt umber, and burnt sienna.
   The house is  sometimes tinted with a mixture
 of lake and  gamboge. The tiling and shadows have
 an excess of lake.
   The windows are of indigo and  burnt umber.
   The smoke is lake and indigo.
   The sheep are of burnt umber and gamboge.
   The figures are touched  with lake and indigo.
   For landscapes, no other colours than the above
 are requisite, and they can be purchased in prepar-
 ed cakes.
         TO PAINT IN CRAYONS.

                  Implements.
  The student must provide himself with  some
strong blue paper, the thicker the better, if the
grain is not too coarse or knotty, the knots should
be levelled  with a penknife or razor,  otherwise
they will prove  exceedingly troublesome.  After
this is done, the paper must be pr.ssed very smooth
on a  linen cloth,  previously strained  on a  deal
frame, the  size according to the artist's pleasure:
on this the picture is to be executed; but it is most
eligible not to paste  the  paper on till  the whole
subject is first dead coloured   Now lay the paper
with  the dead colour on its face  upon a smooth
board, when, by means of a brush, the back side of
the paper must be  covered with paste: the frame,
with the strained cloth,  must then be laid on the
pasted side of the paper; after  which turn the
painted side uppermost, and  lay a piece of clean
paper upon it, to  prevent smearing it; this being
done, it may be  stroked  over gently by the hand,
by which means all the air between the  cloth and
the paper will be forced out.
  When the paste is  perfectly dry, the  painting
may be proceeded with.
             Drawing the outlines.
  Let the outlines be drawn on the glass with a
small camel's hair pencil dipped  in lake, ground
them  with oils, which may be done with great ex-
actness.  After this is accomplished, take a sheet
Of paper of the same size,  and place it on the glass,
stroking over all the line3 with the  hand, by which
means the colour  will adhere to the paste, which
must be pierced with pin  holes pretty close.   The
paper must be next laid upon the table, and the
pierced paper laid upon  it; then with some fine
pounded charcoal, tied up in a piece of lawn, rub
over the pierced  lines, which will  give  an  exact
outline; but great care must be taken not to brush
this off till the whole is drawn over with sketching
chalk, which is a composition made of whiting and
tobacco-pipe clay, rolled like the crayons and point-
ed at each end.
              Painting from life.
  When a student paints  immediately from life, it
will be prudent to make a correct drawing  of the
outlines on another paper, the size of the picture 
CRAYONS.
5P<
he is going to paint, when he may trace by the pre-
ceding method, because  erroneous strokes of the
sketching chalk will prevent the crayons from ad-
hering to the paper, owing to a certain greasy qua-
lity in the composition.
               Posture and light.
  The student will find the sitting posture with the
"box of crayons in his lap the most convenient me-
thod for him to paint.  The part of the picture he
is immediately painting, should  be rather below
his face; for if it  is placed too high, the arm will
be fatigued.   Let the window  of the room where
he paints be darkened at least to the height of six
feet from the ground; and the subject to be painted
should be situated in such a manner, that the light
may fall with every advantage on the face, avoiding
much shadow, which seldom has  a good effect in
portrait painting.
               Features of the face.
  The features of the face  being correctly drawn
with chalks, let the student take  a crayon of  pure
carmine, and carefully draw the nostril and edge of
the nose next the shadow; then with the faintest car-
mine tint, lay in  the highest light upon the  nose
and forehead, which must be executed broad.  Then
proceed gradually with  the second tint, and the
succeeding ones,  till arrived at the shadows, which
must be covered brilliant, enriched with much lake,
carmine, and deep green.   This method appears
at first uninviting, but in the finishing it will pro-
duce a pleasing effect, colours being  much easier
sullied when too  bright, than, when its colouring is
lull, to raise the picture into a brilliant state.  The
several  pearly tints distinguishable in fine com-
plexions, must be imitated with blue verditer and
white, which answers to the ultramarine tints used
in oil.   But if the parts of the face  where these
tints  appear are  in shaVlow, the crayons composed
of black and white must be substituted in their place.
When the student begins  the eyes, let him  draw
them with a crayon inclined to the carmined tint, of
whatever colour the irises are; he must lay them on
brilliant and thin of colour, not yet noticing the pu-
pil : he must then let the light of the eye  incline
very much to the blue cast, cautiously avoiding a sta-
ring white appearance, preferring a broad shadow
thrown on the upper part of the eye-lash.  A black
and heavy tint is also to be avoided in the eye brows;
it i s therefore best to execute them like a broad glow-
 ing shadow at first, on which, in  the finishing, the
hairs of the brow are to be  painted; by which me-
 thod of proceeding the former tints will shew them-
 selves  through,  and produce the most pleasing
 effect.
   The student should begin the lips with pure car-
 mine and lake, and in the  shadow use some car-
 mine and black;  the strong vermilion tints should
 be laid on afterwards.   He  must  be aware of exe-
 cuting them with stiff hard lines, gently intermix-
 ing each with the neighbouring colours, making
 the shadow beneath broad and enriched  with bril-
 liant crayons.   He must form the corner of the
 mouth with carmine, brown ochre, and greens, va-
 riously intermixed. If the hair is dark, he should
 preserve much of the lake  and deep carmine tints
 therein; this may be overpowered easily by the
 warmer hair-tints, which, as observed in painting
 the  eye-brows, will produce a richer effect when
 the picture is finished; on the contrary, if this me-
 thod is neglected, a poverty of  colouring will be
 discernible.
   After the artist has dead  coloured  the head, he
 is to begin rubbing the  forehead at the strongest
 light, first  over  with  his  finger, passing it very
 lightly till he unites it with the next, tint, and so on
till the whole is softened  together,  often wiping
his  finger to prevent the colours being rubbed.
       H
After the head is forwarded let him lay in the back-
ground, covering it as thin as possible and rubbing
it into the paper with a leather stump.   Near the
face the paper should be almost free from colour.
In the  back-ground also  those crayons which are
the most brilliant should be used, next  paint the
edges of the hair over in a light and  free man-
ner.
  The artist may now note what parts are too light
and what too  dark.   He  is then to complete die
back-ground,  and the hair, as the dust in painting
these will fall on the face, and would much injure
it if completed first.
  In the last  painting of the forehead, begin the
highest light with the most faint  vermilion tint; in
the next shade, succeeding the lightest, the student
must work in some light  blue tints, composed of
verditer and white, intermixing with them some of
the deeper vermilion tints, so as  to let them insen-
sibly melt into each other: some brilliant yellows
may be  sparingly used; and towards the roots of
the hair, strong verditer tints,  intermixed with
green,  will apply well.   Beneath  the  eyes the
sweet pearly tints are to be kept  oomposed of ver-
diter and white, and under the  nose, and on the
temples, the same may be used:  beneath the lips
the same is also proper, mixing them  with light
green and some vermilion.
  In finishing the cheeks, clear them  with pure
lake, then  with the same intermix  bright vermi-
lion; and last of all, if required, a few touches of
the orange coloured crayon.  After, sweeten  that
part with the finger as little as possible, for fear of
producing  a heaviness on the  cheeks.
  The eye is the most difficult feature to execute.
If the eye lashes are dark he must use some of the
carmine and brown ochre, and the  crayon of car-
mine and black; and with these  last, of brown or
hazel, make a broad shadow caused by the eye-lash.
The pupil of the eye must be made of pure lamp
black;  between this and the lower part of the iris
the light will catch  very strong, but it must be
gently diffused round the pupil till it  is lost in
shade.   When the eye-balls are sufficiently pie-
pared, the shining speck must be made with a pure
white crayon, first broken to a point, and then laid
on firm; out as it is possible they may be defective
in neatness, they should be corrected with a pin,
taking off the redundant parts.
  The difficulty, with respect to the nose is to pre-
serve the lines properly  determined, and at the
same time so artfully blended into the cheek, as to
express its projection, and yet no real line to be
perceptible upon a close examination; in some cir-
cumstances it should be quite blended with the
cheek, which  appears behind it, and determined
entirely with a  slight touch  of  red chalk.  The
shadow caused by the nose is generally the darkest
in the whole face.   Carmine and brown ochre, and
carmine and black, will compose it  best.
  Having prepared the lips with the strongest lake
and  carmine, they must, with these colours,  be
made perfectly correct;  and when finished, intro-
duce the strong vermilions, but with great caution
as they  are extremely predominant.   This, if pro-
perly touched, will  give the  lips an appearance,
equal, if not  superior, to those  executed in oils,
notwithstanding the seeming superiority the latter
ha3 by means of glazing.
                 The neck, &c.
  To paint the neck, the  artist  should. avoid ex-
pressing the muscles too strong  in  the  stem, nor
should the bones appear too evident on  the chest,
as both  have an unpleasing effect  denoting a violent
agitation of the body—a circumstaD~e- seldom ne-
cessary to express in poi .rait painting.   The most
necessary part to be expressed, and whioh should 
58
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT 300K.
 ever be observed, even in the most delicate subject,
 is a strong marking just above the place where the
 collar bones unite; and if the  head is much thrown
 over the shoulders, some notice should betaken of
 a large muscle that rises from behind the ear, and
 is inserted  into  the pit between the collar bones.
 All  inferior muscles should  be  in  general  quite
 avoided.  The student will find this caution neces-
 sary, as most subjects, especially thin persons, have
 the  muscle of the neck much  more apparent than
 would  be judiciuus to imitate.   In colouring the
 neck, let  the stem of a pearly hue predominate,
 and  the light not so strong as on the chest.  If any
 part of the  breast appears, its transparency  must
 also be expressed by pearly tints; bnt the upper
 part of the chest should be coloured with beautiful
 vermilions, delicately blended with the other.
                Draperies, &c.
  Dark blue, purple, black, pink, and all kinds of
 red draperies also, should be first tinged with car-
 mine, which will render the colours much more
 brilliant than any other method;  over  this should
 be laid  on the paper the middle tint,  (a medium
 between the light and dark tints, of which the dra-
 pery is  to be painted), except the dark masses  of
 shadow; which should be laid on at first as deep as
 possible;  these  sweetened with  the  finger, be-
 ing destitute of smaller folds, will exhibit a  mas-
 terly breadth, which the lesser folds, when added,
 ought by no means to destroy.   With the light and
 dark tints, the smaller parts are next to  be made
 with freedom,'executing as much with  the crayon,
 and as little with  the finger as possible : in  eijch
 fold touching the last stroke with the crayon, which
 stroke the finger must never touch.  In the case of
 reflections, the simple touch of the crayon will be
 too harsh, therefore fingering will be necessary af-
 terwards,  as reflected lights are always more gentle
 than those which are direct.  With respect to re-
 flections in general, they must always  partake  of
 the same  colour as the object reflecting; but  in
cases of single  figures, it may be useful to make
 some particular observations.
  Iu a blue drapery, let the reflections he of a green-
ish cast: in green draperies, make them  of a yel-
low tint, in yellow of an orange, in orange reflect
a reddish cast;  in all reds something of their  own
nature,  but inclined to the yellow;  black  should
have-a reddish reflection; the reflection of a reddish
tint will also present purples to the best advantage.
Of whatever colour ths drapery is, the reflection of
the face must partake thereof, otherwise the  pic-
ture, like painting un glass, will have but a gaudy
effect.
  Linen, lace, fur, &c. should be touched spirit-
edly  with the crayon, fingering very little, except
the latter; and  the last touches even of this,  like
all other parts, should be executed with  the crayon,
without sweetening with the finger.
          To prepare coloured crayons.
  Take a large vessel of water,  put lue  whiting
into it, and mix them well together;  let this stand
about half a minute, then pour the top into another
vessel,  and  throw the gritty  sediment away; let i
 what is prepared rest about  a minute, then pour it
off as before, which will purity the  whiting, and
render it free from all dirt and grittiness.   When
this is done, let the whi.ing settle, and then pour
the water from  it,  after which, lay it on the chalk
to dry, and keep it for use,  either for white cray-
ons, or the purpose of preparing  tints  with other
 colours, for with this all other  tints may be safely
prepared.   If the student wishes to make crayons
 of the whiting directly after it is washed, it is not
necessary  to dry it  on the chalk, for it may be
mixed instantly with an, other colour,  which will
 save considerable trouble. All colours of a heavy or |
 grittv nature, especially blue  verditer, must be
 purified by washing after this method.
   The student must be provided with a large flexi-
 ble pallet-knife, a large stone and muller to levi-
 gate the colours^two or three large pieces of chalk,
 to absorb the moisture from the colours after they
 have been levigated,  a piece  of flat glass, to pre-
 vent the moisture from being absorbed too  much,
 till the  colours are' rolled into form,  and vessels
 for water, spirits,  &c. as necessity and conveni-
 ence  shall direct.
                      Reds.
   It is rather difficult to procure either good car-
 mine or good lake.   Good carmine is inclined to
 the vermilion tint, and good lake to the carmine
 tint.  The carmine crayons arc  prepared  in the
 following manner.
                    Carmine.
   As their texture is inclinable  to hardness, in-
 stead of grinding and  rolling them, take a suffi-
 cient quantity of carmine, laying it upon the grind-
 ing-stone; mix it with a levigating-knife with spirit
 of  wine,  till  it becomes smooth  and even.   The
 chalk-stone being ready,  lay  the  cover upon it to
 absorb  the spirit; but be careful that it is laid in
 a proper state for painting.   If it  is levigated  too
 thin,  the crayons will be too flat,  and if too thick,
 it will occasion a waste of colour,  by their adher-
 ing to the pallet-knife; but practice will render
 the proper degree  of consistence familiar.   The
 simple colour being prepared, the next step is to
 compose  the different tints  by the mixture with
 whiting; the proportion to be observed consisting
 of twenty gradations to one, which maybe clearly
 understood by the following gradations.  Take
 some of  the  simple   colour and  levigate it with
 spirit of wine, adding about one  part  of washed
 whiting to three parts of carmi..e, of which, when
 properly  incorporated,  make two parcels.  The
 next gradation should be composed of equal parts
 of carmine and  whiting,  of which four crayons
 may be made. The third composition should nave
 one-fourth carmine, and three-fourths whiting; of
 this mix six crayons,  which will be a  good  pro-
 portion  for the rest.  The last tint should be made
 of whiting, very faintly tinged with carmin0, of
 which make about twenty cravons, which  will
 complete the above-mentioned  proportion.    As
 these  compound tints are levigated, they are  to be
 laid immediately upon the cloth, tnat the moisture
 may be  absorbed to the proper degree  of dryness
 to form  it into crayons,  which may be known by
 its losing the greater part of  its adhesi' e quality
 when  taken  into the hand; if the consistency  is
found to be right,  it may be  then laid  upon the
glass, which,  having  no pores,  will prevent the
moisture from being carried off before it is conve-
nient  to  form it into crayons, otherwise the cray-
ons will be full of cracks and very brittle, which
will be a great inconvenience when they are  used
in painting.
                     Iidke.
  This is a colour veiy apt to he hard,  to prevent
which the student must observe the following par-
ticulars.   Take about half the quantity  of lake in-
tended for the crayns; and grind  it very fine wit!.
 spirit of wine; let it dry, and then pulverize it,
which, if the hike is good,  is  easily done; then
take the other half  and grind it with spirit;  after
 which mix it with the pulverized  lake, and lay it
out directly in crayons on 'he chalk.  This colour
 will not bear  rolling.   The  simple colour being
thus prepared,  proceed with the compound cray-
 ons as directed before, and in the same gradation
as the carmine tint.
                   Vermilion.
  The best is inclined to the carmine tint. Noth- 
fng is required to prepare  this colour more than
to mix it on the stone with soft water or spirit, af-
ter which it may be rolled wuh cravons. The dif-
ferent tints are produced by a mixture of the sim-
ple colour with whiting, according to  the propor-
tions already given.
                    Blues.
   Prussian blue is a colour veiy apt to bind, and
is rendered soft with more difficulty than carmine
and lake.  The same method of preparation to be
followed with this, as directed with respect to lake,
only it is necessary to grind a large quantity of the
pure colour, as it is chiefly used for painting dra-
peries.   The different tints may be  made accord-
ing to necessity.   Blue verditer is a colour natu-
rally  gritty, and therefore it is necessary to make
it well.   Its particles are so coarse  as to require
some binding matter to unite them,  otherwise the
crayons  will  never  adhere together.  To accom-
plish this, take a quantity sufficient to form two or
three crayons, to which add a piece of .iaked plas-
ter of Paris, about the  size of a  pea; mix these
well together, and form the crayons  upon a chalk.
This  blue is extremely brilliant  and will  be of
great use in heightening draperies, &c. The tints
must be formed with whiting, as  directed  in the
former  instances,  and  are  highly serviceable in
painting flesh, to produce  those  pearly tints  so
beautiful in crayon  pictures.  It  is  not necessary
to mix the compound with  spirit,  as clear  water
will be sufficient.
                     Greens.
  Brilliant greens  are  produced with great diffi-
culty.   In Switzerland they have  a method of
making them far superior to ours.   We usually
take yellow ochre, and, after grinding it with spi-
rit, mix it with the powder of Prussian blue  ; then
temper it with a knife, and lay the crayons on the
chalk without rolling them.*  Instead of this, some
use King's yellow  mixed with Prussian blue, and
others,  brown ochre with  Prussian blue.   The
crayons made of the two last may  be rolled.  Va-
rious tints may be produced by these colours, ac-
cording to fancy  or necessity; some to  partake
more of the blue, and others of the yellow.
                    Yellows.
  King's yellow is the  most  useful and the most
brilliant, levigated with spirit of wine, to compose
the different tints as  before directed.   Yellow
ochre, and Naples yellow ground with spirits, will
'  roduce useful crayons.  Orange is produced with
King's yellow  and vermilion  ground together,
and the tints formed as in other cases, but no great
quantity ». i'them is required.
                   Browns.
   Cullen's earth is a fine dark brown.  After six
or eight of the simple crayons are prepared, several
rich compound tints may be prepared  from it, by
a moisture of carmine of various degrees.   Black
carmine, and this colour, mixed  together,  make
useful tints for painting hair; several gradations
may be  produced from each othe-  of these by a
mixture with whiting.   Roman,  or brown ochre,
is an excellent colour, either simple or compound-
ed with carmine.  Whiting,  tinged in  several  de-
grees with either of these, will prove very service-
able in painting.   Umber may be  treated in just
the same manner, only  it is necessary to levigate
with spirit of wine.
                    Purples.
  Prussian blue ground with spirit and mixed with
pulverized lake, will produce a good purple.  Car-
mine, thus mixed with Prussian blue, will produce
a purple somewhat different from the former. Va-
rious  tints may be made from either  of these com-
pounds, by a mixture with whiting.
ONS.                                        69

                      Black.
    Lamp-black is the  only black that can be used
  with  safety,  as  all others  are  subject to mildew,
  but as good lamp-black is very scarce, the student
  will,  perhaps, find  it most  expedient to make  it
  himself; the process of which is as follows :  Pro-
  vide a tin cone, fixed over a lamp, at such a height
  that the flame may just reach the cone for the soot
  to gather within it.  When a sufficient quantity  is
  collected, take it out and burn all the grease from
  it, in a crucible.  It must then be ground with spi-
  rits, and laid on the chalk to absorb  all the  mois-
  ture.   Various grey tints may be formed from this
  by a mixture with whiting, as mentioned in former
  instances.  Vermilion mixed with  carmine : this
  is a composition of great use, and tints made from
  this  with whiting, will be found to be very  servi
  ceable.  Carmine and black is another good  com-
  pound, of which five or six  gradations  should be
  made, some partaking of the black, and others hav-
  ing the carmine  most predominant,  besides  seve-
  ral tints by a mixture with whiting.  Vermilion and
  black is also  a very useful compound, from which
  several tints should  be  made.   Prussian blue and
  black is another good compound, and will befounc
  of singular service in painting draperies.
    It is impossible to lay down rules for the form
  ing of every tint necessary in composing a set of
  crayons, there being many accidental  compositions
  entirely dependent  upon fancy and opinion.   Th'
  student should make it a rule to save the leaving*
  of his colours, for of these he may  form various
  tints, which will occasionally be useful.
    The different  compositions of colours  must b<
  cut into a prvper magnitude, after they are prepar.
  ed, in order to roll ii.to  pastils, for  the conveni
  ence of using them.  Each crayon should be form-
  ed in  the left hand,  with the ball of the right, first
  formed cylindrically, and  then tapering at  each
  end.   If the composition is  too dry,  dip the finger
  in water; if too wet, the composition  must be laid
  on the chalk again,  to absorb more of the moisture.
  The crayons should be rolled as quick as possible,
  and when finished, must be laid on the chalk again,
  to absorb all remaining moisture. After the grada
  tion of tints, from one colour is formed, the  stoni
  should be scraped and well  cleaned with water, be-
  fore it is Uoed  for another colour.
           Arrangement of the crayons.
    When the  set of crayons is completed,  they
  should be arranged in classes, for the convenience
  of painting with them. Some thin drawers, divid-
  ed into a number of partitions, is the most conve-
'  nient  method of disposing  tl.em properly.   The
1  bottom of the  partitions must be covered with bran,
j  as a bed for the colours, which will preservs  them
  clean and unbroken.  The  box  made use of, when
I  the student paints,  should be about  a foot square,
|  with nine partitions.  In the upper corner on the
!  left hand (supposing the box to be on the lap when
I  he paints), let him place the black and  grey cray-
  ons, those being the most seldom used; in the se-
  cond partition, the  blues; in the third,  the greens
1  and browns; in the first partition on the left hand
!  of the second row, the carmines, lakes, and ver-
|  milions,  and  all aeep reds; the yellows  and or-
!  ange in the middle, and the pearly tints next; and
I  as these last  are of a  very delicate nature, they
  must  be kept very clean, that the gradation of co-
  lour may be easily distinguished; in the lower row
  let the first partition contain  a fine piece of  linen
  rag, to wipe the  crayons with while they are using;
  the second, all the pure lake and vermilion  tints;
  and the other partition  may contain those  tints
  which, from their complex >  «ture, cannot be class-
  ed with any of the former.. 
60
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 TO PAINT  ON IVORY AND  MINIATURE
                 PAINTING.

         To prepare ivory for miniatures.
 • Take the ivory leaves, or tables on which  the
 painting is to be made, and having cleansed them,
 rub them over with the juice of garlic.
  This takes off that greasiness which is so much
 complained of, as preventing the colours from tak-
 ing on the ground, and which  is not otherwise to
 be remedied by the use of soap, or even gall.
  Another method.—Ivory is never sold in a state
 sufficiently  polished or  white.  The process of
 whitening must be done by placing it in a mode-
 :ately heated oven, or in  the sun, which will warp
 >ne side;  turn it then  on the other, and when it
 las the degree of whiteness required, take it out,
 that it  may not become too dry; for in that case it
 loses its transparency, and is apt to split when cut.
 This operation finished, proceed to the polishing.
 Some painters use a large scratcber; others, an in-
 strument, with a blade three or four inches long,
 and of a triangular shape.  To either of these,  the
 use of a razor is preferable;  to benefit completely
 by it be sure it has not the smallest notch in it, or
 that it be not too sharp.  Open it so that the back
 part of the blade  touches the handle; in that way
 use it  to  scrape the ivory from angle  to angle.
 When  the whole is thus polished, begin again from
 the contrary angles, in  order that no traces of  the
 saw may remain  upon the  side required to be
 painted.   Having provided pounce-stone, pulver-
 ized and  passed  through a  silk  sieve, place  the
 ivory in the middle of the bottom  of a hand box,
 holding it firm with one hand, while with the other,
take a small bit of paper, ard  rub the pounce on
the side of the  ivoiy  which has  been  polished;
being always careful to do it with a circular move-
ment.
  If the ivory be now of a dead white, and has lost
the shine given to it by the  razor, take  it out of
the box, holding it so that the fingers do not touch
the surface, so troublesome to prepare, and brush
off lightly with a painting brush any grits that may
have adhered to  it; for this  purpose, take one of
the largest hair-pencils;  it may be serviceable to
remove, in the same way, any specks or dust while
painting.
  Never suffer the fingers to  touch  the ivory; hold
 it always at the extremities, for the colour will  not
 settle in a place touched by the hands. If, however,
 such an  accident happens, have recourse to  the
 pumice-powder,  and with a  paper  stump, rather
 pointed,  gently rub the  place affected.  But, to
 avoid, as much as possible, a recurrence of such
 accidents, when  at work, take a sheet of paper to
 rest the hand upon, and when there is occasion to
 use body-colour, have  a  piece of wood or paste-
 board made for the same purpose, in  such a way
 that it touch not the miniature: for, inconsequence
 of the gum which is in the colours, the heat of the
 hand might cause the paper to  stick to the paint-
 ing.  The ivory at last prepared, begin  the work
 by  placing it on the desk, in  the  middle, with a
 sheet of paper under it, and the sketch above.
                To soften ivory.
  Slice half a pound of mandrake, and put it into
 i quart of the best vinegar, into which put the ivory;
 let  it stand in a warm place for 48 hours, and  the
 ivory may be bent in any direction.
              Manner of sketching.
  Begin by attacking  the strongest shades of the
 head: it is only when perfectly sure of the form of
 the four features, that the pupil may try to express
 the exterior shape of  the head, and the wave of
 the hair.  Endeavour, while indicating carefully
 the form, not to render  the lines too hard.  If,
 when painting the eyes, the lids are marked by tot-
 strong an ouUine, it will be very difficult to soften
 it afterwards.  The same may be observed relative
 to the eye-lashes,  and the shade of the nose and
■ Jlin: be'gin by sketching them lightly;  observe if
 thev are exactly of the same colour and shape as
 those of the model; then go over  them several
 times,till they have acquired the necessary strength.
   In order to succeed upon what the pupil is now
 employed, (suppose it to be the head of an old man
 painted by Greuse) take care  at first to use  only
 warm colours, and  do not till afterwards employ
 those grey tints which are perceived at the edge of
 the middle tints, towards the side approaching the
 light, otherwise the shades would not be sufficient-
ly transparent.  Be very  careful to preserve the
lights, particularly those which are placed upon
the upper part of the cheeks, the extremity of the
nose, and the forehead.
  There are some painters who make use, with
success,  of a pen-knife, to scratch out the colour,
but it requires skill, and  the edge of the  blade
must only be employed, avoiding to touch with the
point: it is better to proceed carefully, to be oblig-
ed to add colour rather than take it off.  Work  by
etching; endeavour to place them at equal distar ces
the one from the other, that they may as nearly as
possible denote the forms of the  flesh, and the mo-
tions of the muscles.
   If, notwithstanding these precautions, the coloui
is found too thick, in some parts, or in consequence
of taking too much  water in your brush, some clot-
ted strokes are perceived,  use  the point of the
brush, dipped in water, tinged with the slightest
quantity of colour,  in order to dissolve it wiihou'
entirely  taking it away.  It is essential, also, tc
avoid working  too  long upon the  same spot, for
fear of disturbing the colours already put on.
             Colours to be employed.
  The principal shades of the head are made with
bistre, mixed with  burnt  sienna, and in  some
places with precipit", or  a mixture of lake and
lamp-black.  The middle tints are made with yel-
low ochre, ultramarine, and very little of the mix-
ture above-mentioned.  The flesh-tints are  made
with red brown, upon which touch with a  small
quantity of orange-lake. The green tints, near the
mouth and neck, are made with  yellow-ochre, ul-
tramarine, and a little lake.  The grey hairs  of
this old man are prepared in the shades with tints
of bistre and black: in the middle tints, with ultra-
marine, to wjiich add some precipite'.
  The eye-balls are made with  burnt sienna and
bistre; it would be well to make use of mdigo for
their outlines.  In  the white of the eyes there are
ultramarine, black, and lake; make the mouth with
brown-red mixed with lake and ultramarine.  For
the mouth of a woman, or young man, one  may
employ, with good effect,  a little vermilion in the
under lip, as it usually is of a higher colour.  At
present it will  be  sufficient to touch the corners
with burnt sienna and lake.
  Colours to be used in sketching  a woman's hcaa.
  Be careful to put scarcely any bistre in  the
shades,  but  make them with the same  colours as
those already named for  the middle tints of the
old man, namely, ochre, ultramarine, and pvea-
pite; the local  shades of the  flesh  are made  with
orange-lake, which must be enlivened in the parts
most highly coloured with pure lake and even a
little vermilion.   Make the middle  tints with i
 slight mixture of  lake, ochre,  and ultramarin*.
 Sketch  the mouth  with lake and  vermilion, and
 retouch the upper-lip with a  little red-brown, ul-
 tramarine, and pretipite; put also a small  quantity
 of ultramarine in the cast shadow of the upper-lip,
 and slightly heighten the corners of the mouth with 
MINIATURE PAINTING.
61
s touch of yellow-ochre, or burnt sienna, mixed
with lake.
  In painting the neck and breast do not lose sight
of the local lint of the flesh, which must be done
with orange-lake: let the shading be very transpa-
rent; wash in well'the contours; try to round them
in placing the etching nearer to each other towards
the edge, being careful  not  to  lose the original
form.  If the woman's hair is of a bright chesnut,
in order to give  this colour, sketch it with bistre,
mixed with a little black; put also a mixture of car-
mine, lake, and lamp-black in the strongest shades,
and after having carefully preserved the lights, go
over them with water, coloured with  very little
ochre.   There is nothing in nature, lighter, more
transparent, or more uncertain, than hair; there-
fore endeavour to study and express it accordingly.
Make the extremities harmonize  with  the  back-
ground, and do not begin the latter till the head be
in some degree of forwardness.  Sketch it boldly,
but with light tints, and work upon them as equal-
ly as possible.  The blue parts are made with ul-
tramarine, then add, in those that  are grey, some
black, and a little precipite.   Work it  over with
tints of burnt sienna in the auburn parts, then har-
monize the whole with one single tint to finish it:
that is to say, if the general effect be too blue, em-
ploy black for that purpose; if too black, use blue;
and if too cold, add some yellow.   As to the dress,
which is muslin, employ lake mixed with yellow-
ochre and ultramarine. ' Put some  glazing of In-
dian yellow in the reflected light, and shade with
sienna, lake, and a little  black.
       Use and advantage of body-colours.
  The use of body-colours is absolutely necessary
in painting in miniature for those that are desirous
of producing much effect.   It would be nearly im-
possible to make a good copy of a painting in oil,
without employing them; besides which, for those
who are become proficient in the use of them, they
possess  the  great advantage  of enabling them to
paint faster.  Before making use of these colours
it is necessary to know them; the following is the
list.
        French colours—English colours.
  Blanc  leger, Light white.—Ocre jaune. Yellow
ochre.—Vere  de rut, Roman ochre.—'Orpin jaune,
Yellow orpiment.—Orpin rouge, Red orpiment.—
Terre  de  sienne  brulee, Burnt  sienna.—Brun
rouge, Light or  Indian red.—Vermilion, Vermil-
ion.—Laque, Lake.—Precipite-Violet, Mixture of
carmine, lake with Indigo.—Carmin, Carmine.—
Indigo,  Indigo.—Blue de Prusse, Prussian blue.—
BisjBte, Bistre.—Terre de Cologne, Cologne earth.
—Noir de bougie, Lamp-black.—Gomme   gutte,
Gamboge.—Verd de vessie, Mixture of sap-green
with permanent green.
  In colouring f^sh, the lights are only obtained
by  the assistance of the transparency of the colours,
and the natural whiteness of the ivory;  with body-
colours, on the contrary, it is entirely covered, and
the relief can only be  produced by the  use of co-
lours more or less luminous.
           To cut and paste the ivory.
  Cut the ivory according to the form desired for
the picture before beginning to paint with  body-
colours; for this purpose make use of scissars, and
take care always to  direct the points towards the
centre from which ever side the pupil is  cutting, in
order to prevent the ivory from  splitting;  then
paste it upon a sheet of very white pasteboard, of
a thickness  proportioned to the size ot  the minia-
ture.                                   .
  For this purpose use paste extremely white, such
as is made with  starch; then leave it under a press
for  some hours.   Some painters use sheets ot sil-
ver which they place between the ivory and the
 pasteboard, to give brilliancy to the painting; but
 the effect produced by this is" very trifling, and fre-
 quently turns out in the end very bad, as this me-
 tal is subject to become stained:  When there is a
 back-ground, or a drapery to paint in body-colours,
 beg.n by making  a mixture upon the palette, ap-
 proaching as nearly as possible to the general tint
 of the  object  intended  to  represent, observing,
 however, that it is better to  sketch with too dark
j than too light a tint, foi  it is always easier to add
 to the lightness than to the darkness of a body-co-
' lour.   Avoid wetting the pencil  more than is ab-
[ solutely necessary for spreading the colour.  It is
 better to use a  little more in making the mixture
 than for spreading it upon the  ivory; but be very
 careful  not to begin painting till  it evaporates a
 moment, as the painting will be better and quicker
 done if the colour employed be sufficiently dry.
            To sketch portraits on ivory.
   Take for the model the picture of a man boldly
 drawn, but, at the same time, finished.  Choose a
 dark man, because black hair is more easily ex
 pressed upon a back-ground done with body-colour.
 Procure before-hand a glass of the same size as the
 model, if you wish to preserve the copy; and when
 the sketch  is  finished, use the same glass to trace
 the form of the picture upon the ivory, with the
 assistance of a  leaden pencil. Be very careful to
 trace in such a  manner, as that the head may be in
 every direction at the same distance from the oval,
 as it is in the modek  In painting from nature, the
 pupil will perceive the importance  of placing the
 head in its proper place, in order to give  grace to
 the picture.  It should approach more or less to
 the border at the top, according to the height  of
 the person, but in  no case should it ever touch, and
 there should always be at least the distance of two
 parts, equivalent to the half of the head.
   Now carefully sketch  the head, attentively exa-
 mining the model, to know what colours to use;
 but, while endeavouring to render the work neat and
 even, do not put the etchings too close,  or be in
 too great a hurry to finish.   In  finishing too soon,
 the pupil is frequently obliged to go again over the
 painting with large touches, in  order to give it
 strength; the colour in consequence becomes heavy,
 and the shades are rarely transparent.  Sketch the
 hair with black, mixed with  bistre, then  touch it
 in certain parts with pure black; and, in finishing,
 spread some glazings of lake and lamp-black, and
 burnt sienna, with a great deal of gum.   For  the
 back-ground take a large pencil, with which make
 a mi\ture on the palette of body-colours with white,
 black,  ochre, and  Cologne earth, to which add a
 slight quantity  of indigo.  Then compare the ef-
 fect of this mixture with the back-ground of the
 model, and if it is the same, take a pencil of squir-
 rel's hair,  with not too large a  point, and spread
 carefully round the head  and  shoulders the colour
 of the back-ground.   Endeavour as little as possi-
 ble to alter the  masses of hair, or the contour of the
 shoulders.  . Now use a larger pencil for the  pur-
 pose of spreading the colour with wide short etch-
 ings placed one beside the otf>er.
   WTtien this work has become  perfectly dry,  go
 over it in the same manner, but without ever pass-
 ing twice over the same spot, for fear of taking it
 off.  Continue doing this until the ivory no longer
 appears in any  part.  If any unevenness or thick-
 ness be perceived, caused by dust falling from the
 colours, or the  inequality of the work, (as soon as
 the back ground is perfectly dry) use the  flat side
 of the blade of a scratcher, in order to smooth  it.
 To imitate the variety  of colours  in the model,
 bring forward the head, and give transparency and
 vagueness to the back-ground: make a greyish tint
 with white, black, and  a small  degree of ochre. 
62
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
 take a very little of this in  a large  pencil, being
 careful to pass it over a piece of paper, or upon the
 corners of the ivory, that there  may not remain too
 much  colour; then  touch  with  confidence,  but
 lightly, the parts  of the back-ground which  ap-
 proach to the head.
   In consulting the model the pupil  will discover
 if it be necessary to go over it  again.  Touch the
 other parts with glazings of ochre, or burnt sienna,
 always mixed with a little white, to be able to ma-
 nage  them.   These last strokes must  be  given
 boldly, using scarcely any thing but water coloured,
 keeping as near as possible to the tint.  To  make
 the coat, whichlis blue, use indigo, lake, and a lit-
 tle white.for the  local tint; for the shades black and
 indigo, with a little gum.   Add to  the local tint
 rather more white and touch the lights  with it,
 using for that purpose a smaller pencil.   To pre-
 vent  the outline of the coat from appearing  too
 hard upon the back-ground, touch the edges with
 slight glazings made with the  colours  employed
 for both.  Endeavour to avoid,  particularly in fe-
 male pictures, letting the back-ground of body co-
 lour touch the extremities of the flesh; but fill up
 this space with etchings, made with the  colour of
 the  back-ground a little lightened; it is the only
 method of harmonizing the carnations with body-
 polour.  In order to finish the hair,  the prepara-
 tion of which  is already explained, and the lights
 of which are of body-colour, make a mixture com-
 posed of white, indigo, redrbrown, and ochre, then
 touch  with it the locks of hair,  where lights have
 been  reserved, very slightly, and  with  a pencil
 nearly dry: add then a little white to the same mix-
 ture, and make use of it to  give another touch to
 the masses that rise the most.  To represent the
 small locks which are made upon the back-ground,
 and give lightness, employ a colour  rather paler
 than that of the hair, otherwise it will  appear much
 too dark upon the body-colour,  and will  want the
 transparency which is always found in nature,
           Use of the magnifying glass.
   In miniature painting the magnifying glass is of
 great use: in the first place, to find out in the mo-
 del the method of colouring, employed by the mas-
 ter intended to copy: secondly, to giyeto the work
 the necessary  finish, and to touch accurately some
 parts  of the head,  and at times the accessories.
 What  is  done without  the  magnifier is  always
 softer; make it a  rule to have recourse to  it only
 when the naked eye perceives nothing more to be
 done.
  Procure also a  little bottle of gum arabic dis-
 solved in water, with a  quantity of sugar candied
 equivalent to a fourth part of the gum; this prepa-
 ration  is of the utmost necessity to mix the colours
 before putting them on the palette, for it  will hap-
 pen that in painting,,and above all in  using body-
 colour, it will be  required  for some particular
 touches.
             To  execute light hair.
   Draw the mass  as correctly as  possible, covering
 it over with a  general tint, without, however, los-
 ing the contours.   Make this tint with a little yel-
low  ochre, black, and  a small  quantity  of lake;
prepare the shades with black,  ultramarine, and
bistre, dot them with tinged water, preserving al-
ways the lights, and finish the-m  as much  as possi-
 ble; retaining, however, their transparency: were
the light parts to be covered too  much, they would
become heavy  when touching them with  body-co-
lour.   When the  hair is in a  state of forwardness,
 that is to say, when by finishing it, it becomes very
 transparent and very silky, then take a short camel- j
 hair pencil, and make a  mixture of yellow ochre I
 and white, with which touch the  light you have left j
 ttf-.done.   Add a little more to this same  mixture, '
 in order to do the ntronger lights;  then touch the
 chief shades with bistre, lake with lamp-black, and
 a great deal of gums.
 To represent velvet and satins of different colours.
   Black velvet.—In order to make a black velvet,
 first cover the ivory with a local tint made of lamp-?
 black, with very little gum, and as smooth  as pos-
 sible; denote the shades with black mixed with in-
 digo and a little  more  gum; make the lights with
 a mixture of black and blue, with half the quantity
 of gum, to which add a little brown-red and yellow
 ochre.  Be very careful, with the  assistance of a
 mixed tint, to blend the darker with  the  lighter
 shades; then  add a little white to this  same  tint,
 and touch the lights with it as freely as possible;
 to finish, do over the shades with mixed black, in-
 digo, precipit", and as much gum as possible, then
 pass over  smoothly the  reflected lights with  lake,
 Vandyke brown, or burnt sienna.
   Violet velvet.—Take some indigo and carmine to
 cover the ivory as equally as possible, avoiding
 with  care  to  make thicknesses;  then draw the
 shades ovrr it with some black, carmine, and more
 gum than in the local tints; for the last touches,
 make use of carmine and white, with half the quan-
 tity of gum mixed with a little white and carmine,
 to touch the lights; then  harmonize  the  shades
 with a little violet precipit" with a great deal of gum
 if the lights are too raw, smooth  them over with a,
 little carmine and lake,  with much gum.
   Green velvet.—Green velvet is made  with a pre-
 paration of Prussian  blue  and red orpiment, well
 and smoothly laid on; the shades are drawn  with
 black and precipit^, then some white and Prussian
 blue, with a little  gum, is used to mark the lights;
 the whole is then touched with the finest sap-green.
 The strong lights may again be touched with  a  mix-i
 ture of white, ultramarine, but  very slightly  with
 sap-green.
   Red velvet.—To  make red velvet, mix a  local
 tint  of carmine with a  little red brown; use  this
 mixture with  great care, only doing it  over again
 when thoroughly dry, that colour being very diffi-
 cult to use as body-colour; indicate the shades  with
precipite and gum; for the strongest parts mark the
 lights with pure  carmine, and  afterwards touch
 those  most brilliant with  pure  white,  then again
 glaze them lightly with carmine.
   The models copied will show you sufficiently the
 manner in»wliich to  place the light on the velvets;
 yet it will be useful to point out" that this drapery
 is only brilliant in the reflected lights, and that it
 is different in  its effects from all others.
   White satin,—It is very difficult to produce the
 effect of white satin with body-colour; it would be
 better attained by dotting the shades, the middle
 tints, and touching the  lights with a little white.
 To obtain the desired effect, it is necessary, at first,
 to indicate with exactness the folcfSof the drapery,
to niake the silvery middle tints  that are seen in
 it, take a little ultramarine, very little lake, and a
touch of yellow ochre;' for the "strongest parts use
Indian yellow, black, and ultramarine.   Be parti-
cular in making the shades of the satin partake of
the tints of the objects around  it.   When  thus
sketched, prepare the lights with some white and
a little gum, which smooth as much as possible;
finish the middle tints with  the same colour used
to begin them, only adding a little ultramarine, and
the most brilliant  lights with white without gum,
the shades with bistre, ultramarine, and precipiti
  Coloured satins, as well as many other silk  dra-
peries, may be done with body-colour.
            To paint white feathers.
  Outline the shape and  the wave with  care  then
sketch them  in with ultramarine,  ochre  and a
touch of lake; dot  them  lightly over, without at 
MINIATURE FAINTING.
63
 tending at first to the minutiae, after which mark
 out the more massy shades, by the addition  of a
 little black to the first tint; then, with care, begin
 to put in  the white, and lightly indicate the little
 particles of the feather which hang over the back
 gi ound or the drapery; with the point of a stronger
 pf ncil mark out  the lines of the body of the fea-
 ther, being careful  to  avoid roughness; touch the
 strongest  shades with precipite, aud do the lights
 with white without gum.
             To gild in body-colours.
  When  there is an  embroidery or  some other
 gilding to do  over a  drapery or body-coloured
 ground, draw the outline of" it with Roman ochre,
 and sketch with the same tint;  do the middle tints
 with bistre and burnt sienna, the lights with yellow
 ochre and white; then  dot the shades with precipi-
 te,  arid a little bistre;  in these last touches there
 should be a great deal  of gum.  The more power-
 ful lights are done with white mixed with  a  little
 gamboge.
  To make the  same  gilding  with  dots, prepare
 them with a simple wash of pure burnt sienna, and
 do it over in the manner above mentioned.
        To execute linen, lace, and gauze.
  The difficulty of painting linen is extreme, and
 every attention ought to be paid to it. The shades
 of white draperies always partake of the colours of
 the ground  and surrounding  objects;  white not
 being considered as a colour, it would be all black,
 were  they not to be reflected by other objects from
 which they borrow  their colouring.   Muslin, be-
 cause of its transparency, partakes much of the co-
 lour of the flesh which it is near, and more parti-
 cularly  when it covers it;  this drapery requiring
 little  light, the shades of it consequently should be
 very soft.
  Laces, blond, and gauzes are made over the ob-
 jects they are  to decorate; the lights are dotted
 with  brilliant  white,  and  the under colours are
 used for the shades; it should border on the yel-
 low, that  being the predominant colour of these
 draperies.  For instance, if you wish to make a
 lace  or blond trimming  over a  violet-coloured
 gown, and the folds of  the trimming approach the
 flesh, the tint in that case should be of a red grey—
 when over the dress of a violet grey; because then
 the tint becomes mixed and partakes of the colour
 of the flesh, the gown, and the blond, the shades
 of which are grey.
   To, represent pearls  upon the flesh, hair,  &c.
  If the pupil has a pearl necklace to make, draw
 the outline of  each pearl with ultramarine,  then
 make the  shade with a little burnt sienna and ultra-
 marine, the reflected lights with ochre, the cast j
 shadow upon the flesh with burnt sienna, softening
 the extremities with some ultramarine: the middle
 tint on the side of the light is made with ultrama-
 rine, and the light is touched with white. Be care-
 ful to proportion the strength of the shading to the
 size of the pearl.
  When pearls are to be made either upon the hair,
 above the back-ground, or  upon draperies, where
 the pearl is to be placed, first, with a wet pencil,
 take the unoer colour  off,  until the  ivory, which
 answers the  purpose of local  tint,  appear; then
make the pearls with the tints above mentioned,
being careful, however, particularly if they be ra-
ther large, to make thern partake in the reflected
parts of the objects which surround them.
 Colours to be employed in sketcldng a portrait from
                    nature.
  We shall now give some rules upon the proper-
 ties and the employment of the colours, advising
the pupil, at the same  time, not to  make the  ap-
plication of them until  he feels convinced that na-
ture indicates it.  Sketch boldly; place the etch-
  ings, as much as possible, at equal distances from
  each other, and make them in such a manner as to
  fhow the movement of the muscles,  and the form
  of the features. In the shades, use some lustre and
  burnt sienna, mixed with a little precipit".   The
  grey tints are done with ultramarine and precipite i
  the  green tints with yellow ochre,  ultramarine,
  mixed more or less with lake, to heighten  them
  and  make them brighter.  The local tints of the
  flesh must always be chosen from the model, and
  serve in a greater or less degree to modify all the
  others.  Observe in painting the eyes, that the
  ball   being  transparent,  and  the  light passing
j  through it, ought to be rather less dark on the op-
  posite side to the white  speck.  However, endear
  vour not to commit  the fault, so common to all be-
  ginners in painting from  nature—that of never giv-r
  ing sufficient vigour to the eye-balls.  In Vandyke,
  particularly in his portraitsof women and children,
  the colour of the eye-balls is much  stronger  than
  any of the shades of the  head:  this  is one of the
  means employed, with success, to give, at the same
  time, expression and softness to the physiognomy.
 To make  the pupil or  black spot, make use of
 black, and a little precipit".  The edge of the  eye-
 lid is made with bistre,  mixed with  red precipite.
 If the person,  whose portrait is painting, has  a
 florid complexion,  replace the bistre with yellow
  ochre mixed with lake.
   The white of the eye is made with ultramarine,
 pure near  the ball; in the  corners,  add a little
 ochre and  lake;  in  men's heads, employ on the
 shaded side a small quantity  of bistre, black,  and
 precipite; which  is heightened, if necessary, with
 a glazing of burnt sienna.  Observe, th,at the setting
 of the eyes towards the extremities of the lids, and
 the lid itself, is generally of a violet tint, whitji
 must, however, be heightened with a little yellow
 ochre, and to which vigour may be given, in  cer-
 tain heads, by a touch of bistre, mixed with precU
 [rite,   The lower part of the face  is almost always
 of a greenish shade, mixed with lake.  The shadow
 cast by  the head  upon the  neck, is nearly of the
 same tint,  although stronger  and warmer in certain
 parts, which will !>e discovered by consulting the
 model.
    The chin in  women is nearly of the same tint
 as the cheeks in the parts most highly coloured.
 It is  the same in men, with  this exception, that it
 is of a stronger tint, and there must be added to it,
 as well as to all the lower part of the face, a greater
 quantity of ultramarine, to indicate the using of the
 beard.  The mouth  is the greatest difficulty for all
 beginners, not so much for the colouring, as for the
 form and expression.  They generally place it too
 far from the nose, in consequence of the  .serious
 and wearied expression frequently to befound in the
 countenance of the model while sitting. In endea-
 vouring to  remedy this evil, they raise the corners,
 and  believe  by this  means that they produce a
 smile, which is never natural but when the ej'es,
 nose, and all the muscles of the face partake of
 this expression.   The upper  lip ought always to be
 of a stronger tint, but of a less brilliant colour than
 the under one.  They are, generally, both of a very
 lively colour, and modelled in young persons, in a
 determined manner,  while in old men, the relaxa-
 tion of their forms, and the loss of their original
 colour, scarcely allows them  to be distinguished
 from the local tint of the flesh.  The corners of the
 mouth are made with a mixture of carmine, lake,
 ultramarine, aud raw sienna.   The last shadow of
 the under lip is made with nearly the same tint,
 adding to it a little touch  of  bistre.  Observe that
 the reflpct of the chin is of a brighter and warmer
 tint than that of the top of the cheek,  particularly
 where the bosom is uncovered.   It ought, in every 
 64                           UNIVERSAL Rl

 other  Instance, without  losing the tint  of the
 flesh, to partake more or less of that of the drapery
 which surrounds it.
   When beginning the hair, observe that its shade
 upon the flesh  has  always a warmer tint, with a
 bluish edge.  There is  also a greyish tint at the
 rise of the hair upon the forehead, which  must be
 indicated, otherwise the flesh will  appear too ab-
 ruptly cut.   It  is  the same with the  eye-brows,
 which apptar, at the extremity of the temple, of
 a pinker colour, and must be blended with the
 flesh at the opposite extremity by a greyish tint.
 Many painters use too much lake at the extremity
 of the  nose; it produces  a disagreeable effect to
 the sight, and destroys the charm of the portrait.
 To avoid this, sketch this part lightly with the lo-
 cal tint which nature presents,  and model it with
 tints more or less grey.   In portraits of  women,
 the middle tints on the side of the light, which are
 perceived upon the  bosom and  arms,  are made
 with a slight mixture of  ochre, ultramarine,  and
 lake; on the shaded side add yellow ochre,  some-
 times red precipite and bistre, in particular where
 the back ground is  deeply coloured.   The local
 tint of  the hands ought to be the same as that of
 the flesh; the nails  are  rather more  violet;  the
 ends of the fingers pink.
   The shadow cast by the hand upon the flesh, is
 made with brown mixed with ultramarine and pre-
 cipite.   The cast shadow  is always stronger than
 the shade of the fingers or the hand that occasions
 it, and  must always  be separated from it by a re-
 flected  light.  Generally  speaking, the reflected
 parts ought to have more strength than the middle
 tints, but less than the shades.
              To cdjust the drapery.
  • We shall now proceed to the accessor, as of. a
,portrait: these consist of the  drapery, the back-
 ground, and  many objects which may be introduc-
 ed and infinitely  varied  according to the subject
 represented.  They  should be subordinate in co-
 lour, light, and effect, to the head, which must, in
 preserving the  same energv and the same truth,
 unceasingly attract the sight and observation.
   The  manner  of adjusting the drapery  contri-
 butes more, than is generally believed by portrait
 painters,  to  give  animation and character,  and
 even expression, to  their  figures.   Raphael, the
 model of perfection in eveiy style, has taught us
 that the draperies are intended to cover, but not to
 hide, the forms.  The large folds ought always to
 be placed on the largest parts of the'body.   If the
 nature of the drapery requires small  folds, give
 them but little relief, in order that they may yield
 in effect  to those  which  indicate  the principal
 parts.   Denote the curved folds at the bending of
 the joints,  and it should  be the form underneath
 which  determines  those  of the drapery.   Place
 also larger folds upon the  projecting parts,  than
 upon the receding ones,  and  be careful never to
 indicate two folds of the same  size and form be-
 side each other.
   All the great  masters  succeeded in expressing
 by the  drapery, not  only the exact form of their
 models at the moment taken, but even discovered,
 by their scientific execution, the position in which
 they were placed the instant before.  In order to
 produce this  effect,  study it in nature; never be-
 gin to dress until  the  principal lines of  it are
 drawn from the person sitting: afterwards it may
 be adjusted upon  a lay figure, the  immobility
 of which will allow  the effect to be more easily
 represented.  This  machine, made use of  by al-
 most all painters, resembles a  skeleton in its con-
 struction; it even expresses the movements, by the
 assistance of balls placed in the joints:  it is stuffed
 with horse-hair, covered with  knitting,  and is
CEIPT BOOK.

 made in imitation of the interior forms of the hu-
 man figure.   After dressing it in the drapery in-
 tended to copy, place it exactly in the same situa-
 tion and the same attitude as those of the model.
 Then, attentively examine if the folds it offers re-
 semble those which were presented by nature.  If
 this be not the case, remedy it as much as  possi-
 ble, by making this figure  perform  some move-
 ments of  the body  and arms,  and then,  (lightly
 with the finger) arranging the folds into which the
 drapery falls in the most natural manner, and fol-
 lowing, as far as possible, the rules just given.
   The execution  of  the  draperies has great influ-
 ence on the harmony of a portrait, not only from
 the colour and variety  of tints,  but  also from the
 becoming arrangement of the folds,  the distribu-
 tion of the light, and the blending of the light with
 the shade.  There are colours that agree together,
 others that are injurious to each other; in general,
 strong contrasts, produced by opposing colours, or
 bri ght lights  and  strong  shades abruptly brought
 together,  offend the sight, and are contrary  to the
I laws  of harmony.  A portrait-painter,  notwith-
 standing  the very  little latitude usually allowed
 him, ought, however, to endeavour to follow these
 law3<as near as he possibly can, and for this pur-
 pose, avail himself of the advantage which he can
 obtain from  the  arrangement  of the folds, the
 chiaro oscuro, and the expression of the reflected
 lights.
           To execute the back ground.
   In the composition of the back-ground, the opi-
 nion of the artist  is usually of much importance in
 the mind of the person painted.   The colours em-
 ployed in  this will offer many resources for giving
 effect to the head  and drapery, and to correct the
 general aspect of  them, when that is necessary. If
 the portrait require colour and  relief, and the vi-
 gour of it  is  not increased, for fear of destroying
 the resemblance,  then make a bright back-ground,
 of a grayish tint  mixed with blue: this will con-
 tribute to  bring it  forward, and make it appear
 more animated.   If, on the contrary, the head b:>
 of too high a colour,  by  the assistance of a warm
 and deep-coloured back-ground, an aspect may be
■ given it more resembling that of nature. However
 simple may be the back-ground  it is thought right
 to adopt,  it must on no account  be of an equal
 shade throughout, and it is  highly  essential,  by
 the variety of the  primitive tints and  glazings  by
 which they are covered,  to  produce  some differ-
 ence in the  tints, particularly  around the  head.
 This will  give  space and uncertainty, detach the
 head, and give it  roundness.
      Primitive colours and their combinations.
   We have  confined ourselves to indicating  12
 combinations of the principal colours'of the flesh,
 and, in reality,  we might confine  ourselves  to 4,
 for  with black,  blue, red, yellow, and reserving
 the  lights upon the ivory,  we might succeed  in
 making all the  mixtures  necessary for miniature
 painting.
   The history of the fine  arts teaches that the emi-
 nent masters  executed for a  length of time with
 only red, blue, and yellow,  which are the  three
 primitive  colours, black being only the abstraction
 from light, and white the light  itself.  A learned
 German, named  Mayer,  has calculated that witVi
 the three primitive colours,  modified  more or iess
 with black and white, we might produce by  their
 different combinations, eight hundred and nineteen
 tints.  We have, then, reason to believe that the
 Greeks, who have left us such  beautiful  master-
 pieces in sculpture, had reached an  equal degree
 of perfection in painting.
 Discovery of new substances by modern painters.
   Modern painters have 'Uscovered in'nature sub- 
MINIATURE PAINTING.
65
stances which presented, ready prepared, the same |
mixture which the ancients were obliged to seek j
for upon their palettes, have increased their mini- '
ber of materials for painting, and have furnished ]
anists with newer and speedier means of acquiring j
perfection in their art.
   There have, however, been painters, who, since
these discoveries, have thought they might dispense
with making use of them.   Santerre, a French art-
ist, living at the commencement of the last ceptury,
was one of these.   He voluntarily .confined himself
to the five colours used by the ancients.  Notwith-
standing this, his  productions  were remarked for
their soft  and  pleasing colouring ; the only sub-
stances he employed were ultramarine, massicot,
red, brown, French white, and Polish black.  This
proves, that it is not the great variety of tints upon
'the palette which  produces fine colouring, but the .
manner of employing them.
Manner  of laying the body colours on the palette.
   When the pupil is desirous of renewing the co-
lours upon the palette, or of putting on fresh, re-
member, that ochres, raw sienna,  brown, bistre,
black, vermilion,  and ultramarine, require to be
ground again,  and to have gum: habit can alone
give a just idea of the degree necessary.   Lake,
carmine lake, »nA precipite, are generally sold with
gum;  experience will teach  whether in  sufficient
quantity, but there is no harm  in grinding them as
much as possible.
   In laying the body-colour on the palette, put a
large quantity of each, and let here be only three
or four at most on one side of the palette, in such a
manner as to leave room for the mixtures.   Grind
them as much as possible, and add a moderate quan-
tity of gum.  We only make use of light white for
miniature painting, the white of lead being subject
to become black from the effect of the air.  Put
 some of this white into two different places: one
of these quantities, with much  less gum, will serve
to go a second time over the lights which are pre-
pared with the other, in order to render them more
brilliant.  Some painters, who wish to give more
 solidity to the back ground and draperies in body-
colours, put more gum in the first sketch; this pre-
caution is unnecessary, when the ivory is properly
prepared; but, in order to succeed in painting bo-
dy colours, they  must not have too  much gum.
When the pupil has finished, and has been able to
express all that he was desirous of executing, with
the assistance of glazings of a warm  tint, he may
make that grey and earthy aspect, which it so often
presents, disappear.
  Different substances used in miniature painting.
   Miniature painting can be executed upon several
kinds of  white substances, such as marble, alabas-
ter, and even egg-shell: artists have succeeded in
preparing and softening the latter by means of hu-
midity ;  they  may then be easily spread  upon a
plate of metal, or a thick sheet of paste-board, after
which they are susceptible, as well as ivory, of re-
ceiving the preparation already  explained.  The
paper and Bristol paste-board, used for the aqua-
relles, cannot be chosen too fine or too even; as they
then require no other preparation than that of the
agate-stone.   Vellum,  which must  be  carefully
stretched  upon paste-board, or a plate of metal,
may be lightly pounced.
   Ivory has generally been adopted in preference
to any of these substances, because it  is subject to
fewer inconveniences, and in its local tint  comes
nearer to that of the  flesh itself; and because it is
ca[>able of receiving a higher finish, and of being
executed  upon with greater vigour,  and,  conse-
quently,  produces works of longer^ duration.  It
ought to be chosen extremely white, without appa-
rent veins, very even, and cut in very thin sheets;
       I
because, in proportion to its thickness, its opaeity
will give it a yellow tint, when otherwise, if it be
transparent, the  whiteness of the  paper or paste-
board it is placed upon, will penetrate and increase
that which is natural to it.
                Choice of brushes.
  It is extremely important to know how to make
a judicious choice of  pencils:  those for the back
ground ought to  be square at  the end,  short and
thick; they must be  dipt in water,  and then be
tried upon paper to see if they remain uivted, and
if there be not  one hair longer than the others
The pencils of squirrel's hair, made for sketching,
ought  not to be too  long, their points should, be
round and firm.  The sable pencils must be full of
hair;  the colour will not then dry so quickly, and
in consequence render the touch larger and softer;
the points should be firm, supple, and elastic.  In
order to be assured  of this, wet them, and turn
them in every direction  upon the finger, or upon
paper: if they make but one point, it may then be
concluded that they are good; if,  on the contrary,
they do  not unite well, or that some hairs are
longer than »thers, in that case they are good for
nothing.   The pupil may, however, still make use
of a pencil too pointed, (provided the hair remains
united) by cutting them with scissors, but be very
careful not to do it too much.  A surer method ot
making a proper point is by wetting  it,  and pass-
ing it rapidly through the flame of a wax taper.
  Most miniature painters have a habit of passing
their pencils  between the lips while  painting, in
order to unite the hair and make a good point; if
there be too much water, they, by this means, draw
it from the pencils, and leave only sufficient to ena-
ble them to employ the colour with softness.  There
is no fear of this being  injurious, for all  colours
used in miniature painting, when prepared (except
the orpiment, which is  a poison), have  no bad
qualities, or disagreeable taste.   This last men-
tioned dangerous colour does not make a part of
the flesh palette, therefore it will  be better to em-
ploy this method for  the purpose of  making the
work even, and prevent its being too much loaded
with colour.  In painting with body colour, gather
only the  hair  of the  pencil, and  if there be too
much colour, discharge ft upon paper, or upon the
palette itself.  In short, it will only be after hav-
ing bought both bad and good pencils, that the pu-
pil will be able to discover those  most favourable
to his own particular manner.
         TO PAINT ON VELVET.

              Materials required.
  Best white cotton velvet, or velveteen.   Box of
water colours.  Assielte rouge, or  saucer of pink
dye.  Towne's alumina.   Velvet  scrubs.  Filch
pencils of different sizes.  Small saucers to con-
tain the diluted colours.
             Subjects for the same.
  Flowers, as the rose, demand peculiar attention:
likewise fine ripe fruits, large and beautiful shells,
and the charming tints of the feathered tribe, See.
  Animals, especially the lion, tiger, leopard, &c.
may be imitated with great fidelity.   In landscapes
choose from  artic scenery, without attending to
the minuteness of figures.
  In the selection of subjects, ever prefer those
that admit of the broadest light and  shade; attempt
first the most simple, as a flower or two: the faci-
lity with which they may be  completed will pre-
pare and encourage for greater works.
             Appropriate  colours.
  Reds.—Lake, carmine, vermilion, light red, and
assielte rouge.
          6                         F 2 
c>6
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
   2?ft«».---Prus3ian, indigo, Antwerp, verditer.
   Yellows.—Gamboge, yellow and Roman ochre.
   Terra de sienna, burnt and Uuburnt.—Umber,
 do. do.—Vandyke brown.—Bistre.—Lamp-black.
 —Indian ink.
               Compound colours.
   Neutral tint, compounded  of lake, indigo, and
 lamp-black.'
   Green, compounded of Prussian blue and gam-
 boge in various shades, or with raw terra de sienna,
 or with burnt terra de sienna.
   Purple, of Prussian blue, or indigo, with lake
 or carmine.
   Orange, of gamboge with carmine, Roman ochre
 with vermilion, yellow ochre with red lead, the 2
 siennas with light red.
   Brown, of umber, lake and lamp-black, differ-
 ent shades, (a deep shade) of lake or carmine, with
 lamp-black or Indian ink.
          Directions to paint on velvet.
   The  only  preparation velvet reqrires  is, the
 making it perfectly smooth by passing over the
 back of it a warm iron.
  • Fitch pencils should be cut almostv^o a point, in
 the same nr.anner as the velvet  scrubs.   Except for
 very large pieces, the former are preferable to the
 latter, being sufficiently strong to  force the colour
 into the velvet, without injuring the foil.
   The subject being  chosen, it will be requisite
 for those  who  are not proficient, to trace in the
 same by attaching it to the velvet, and holding both
 against a window, making a neat and faint outline
 with a black lead pencil; but as velvet does not ad-
 mit the same correction as paper,  great care must
 be taken  at first to obtain  a  correct outline, by
 tracing the subject with  any  smooth round point;
 the impression thus will also  be left on the vel-
 vet.
   Dilute the colours with alumini, except the pink
 dye, carmine,  and  lake; with those use lemon
juice, particularly the pink dye, which is prefera-
 ble to any other colour for the  red rose.
   In diluting the colours make them of a*  creamy
 consistence; in the same manner  prepare  in sau-
 cers the requisite compounds from the primitive
 colours.
   The assiette rouge is an exception to this direc-
 tion.  With a fitch and lemon juice  wash some of
 it from the saucer into smaller  ones, in shades
 from the faintest tinge to the deepest hue of the
 rose.
   Lay in the drawing with the faintest colouring.
 By this means the design will be seen at one view,
 and so correct any little inaccuracy by the subse-
 quent shades.   Observe in this stage to rub the
 colour well into the velvet with the scrubs or large
 fitcher, then let the work dry, and if the velvet is
 not well saturated with the colour, repeat the ope-
 ration, but by  no means in this  stage attempt a
 great depth of colouring.
   Proceed with the shadows, lay them with a fitch
forming the flowers, or any other subject, as accu-
 rately as possible, softening  off the edges of the
 shadows when necessary, according to the  size of
the design, either with a scrub  or fitch, before the
work gets too dry.
  Before proceeding  any further,  the drawing
 should be well examined ; the shadows deepened
and the light heightened as they may require; cor-
 rect the whole, and add the finishing tints;  then
vein the leaves.
  For large flowers, especially  the rose, damp the
back of the velvet moderately to assist the colour-
ing through; wherever there is a large surface to
be covered, this mode will be found advantageous.
  Towards the extremities of the design and form-
ing any part ol the outline,  do not let the fitch be
 too full of colour, but rather dryer than the other
 parts; attention  to this point will preserve the
 drawing perfectly neat and correct.
   Be careful that the scrubs and  fitches be kept
 perfectly clean, otherwise they will injure the bril-
 liancy of  the  drawing, a fault it will be in some
 cases impossible  to correct on velvet.
   Have always ready some clean fitches to take off
 any super-abundance  of colour, also for blending
 the colour while  wet.
          To paint on silks, satins, &c.
   When the outline is made, lay on a wash of isin»
 glass with care, to take away the glare of the satin,
 otherwise the colours will not work freely.   Melt
 the isinglass thin  in very clear water, over the fire,
 otherwise it will  discolour the satin, and spoil the
 colours.
   The lights are to be made by a small tincture of
 the colour of the  intended flower,  mixed with the
 flake white, so as just to make a degree from the
 colour of the satin; if white, or of any other colour,
 to be mixed proportionably to the colour of t!ie
 flower.  If a blue flower, use a very small quantity
 of bice or verditer with the white, using less of it
 as the shades grow darker; and in the most dark,
 use indigo alone,  it being  by  that time rendered
 opaque enough; but take care not to lay the colours
 on too  thick, otherwise they will crack.   A little
 white sugar-candy will be  found  necessary, when
 mixed  with the  gum water,  as a preventive to
 cracking.  If a flower happens to be of so deep a
 colour  as not to  aJmil of any pure white in the
 lightest of the parts,  a sort of priming of white
 should  be laid on; after which, when 017,  begin
 with the ground-colour of the flower, and proceed
gradually with the  shades, with any selected ex-
amples, peculiarly chosen  from nature, for that
purpose.
               LITHOGRAPHY.

        To write and engrave upon stone.
  The  stones  should  be of a calcareous natur»,
pure, hard, and of a fine grain. They must imbibe
both moisture and grease with equal avidity.  The
chalk is a composition of grease,  wax, shell-lac,
soap, and black.  The  lithographic ink is  com-
posed of the same mater als, but rather softer.
  The stone must be rubbed down with fine sand,
to a perfect level, after which it is ready to receive
the drawing: a weak solution of nitric acid should
be thrown over the stone.   This operation will
slightly corrode its surface, and dispose  it to im-
bibe moisture, with  more facility.   While the
stone is still wet, a cylinder of about three inches
in diameter, and  covered with common printer's
ink,  should be rolled over the whole surface of the
stone.  While the wet part refuses to take the ink,
the chalk, being  greasy, will  take a portion of it
from the  roller.   The  stone  is then ready for
printing.
  The press consists of a box drawn by  a wheel,
under a wooden scraper, pressing on it with great
power.  After the first impression, the stone must
be wetted afresh, again rolled over with the cylin-
der, drawn under the scraper, and so on.
  The same process is employed for ink drawings,
except  that the solution of aqua-fortis  must  be
stronger, and the printing ink stiffer.
  Imitations of wood cuts are produced by  cover-
ing the stone with lithographic ink, and  scraping
out the intended lights.   As the finer touches may
be added with a hair pencil, prints far superior to
wood cuts may be obtained, but the chief advan-
tage  of  wooa cuts, that of printing  them  at the
same time with the text of the book, is lost. 
LITHOGRAPHY.
67
   Engraving upon stone is performed by polish- [
 ing the stone,  and covering it with a thin coating
 of gum and black.
   The part intended for the drawing must  be
 scraped out. and  when finished, of course, it ap-
 pears white, instead of black.  The thicker lines,
 as in copper, must be cut deeper, and when the
 whole is finis jed, the stone should be rubbed with
 linseed oil,  which not being able to penetrate the
 coating of gum, will only touch the stone, where
 it is scraped Away.
    Laurent's new method of drawing in stone.
   Take the outline of the original design upon
 transparent paper, by tracing all the lines of the
 original with a dry point; the outline is then glued
 by its edges on a board, and there is spread over it,
 with a piece, of fine linen, a tolerably hard paste,
 formed of lithographic ink, dissolved in essence of
 turpentine.   The outline is then rubbed hard with
 a piece of clean linen, until  the linen ceases to
 have a black tint.   The outline is then transferred
 to the stone  by means of  the  press, placing in a
 vertical  paper press the stone and the outline in
 contact,  laying upon  the  latter  five and twenty
 sheets of paper, wetted  in water with some solu-
 tion of calcined muriate of lime.   Upon these last
 sheets are placed large plates of paper,  about  an j
 inch  thick,  to  prevent  injury from  a thick and
 straight  plank,  which is  to be  laid over them.
 Pressure is  now applied for one hour, when the
 outline will be found adhering to  the  stone.   The
 paper is to be removed by hot water and the de-
 sign will be left on the stone,  which is now wash-
 ed with cold water till no  trace of the paper re-
 mains.
    Thenard and Blainville's lithograpldc ink.
   Soap one-fourth;  mutton suet  one-half; yellow
 wax one  part;  mastic in  tears one-half, and as
 much  lamp black as necessary.
   Three different methods ofprinting from stone.
   In the chemical printing office at Vienna,  three
 different methods are employed,  but  that termed
 in relief, is most  frequently used.   This is  the
 general mode of printing music.
   The second  method is ths sunk, which is pre-
 ferred for prints.
   The third method  is the fiat, that is, neither
 raised nor  sunk.   This is  useful for imitating
 drawings, particularly  where the impression is in-
 tended to  resemble crayons.  For printing and
 engraving in this  method, a  block of marble is
 employed, or  any other  calcareous stone that is
 easily corroded, and will take  a  good polish.  It
 should be two  inches and a half thick,  and of a
 size proportioned to the purpose for which it is
 intended.  A close texture is considered as advan-
 tageous.  When the stone is  well polished and
 dry, the first step is to trace the  drawing, notes,
 or leters to be printed with  a  pencil; the design
 Is not very conspicuous, but it is rendered so by
 passing over the strokes of the pencil a paiticular
 ink, of which a great secret is made.  This ink is
 made of a solution of lac in potash, coloured with
 the soot from burning  wax, and appears to be the
 most suitable black for the purpose.   When the
 design has been gone over with this ink, it is left
 to dry about two hours. After it is dry, nitric acid,
 more or less diluted,  according to the degree of
 relief desired, is poured on the stone, which cor-
 rodes every part of  it,  except when defended by
 the resinous ink. The block being washed with
 water, ink,  similar to that commonly used for
printing, is  distributed over it by printer's balls;
a sheet of paper disposed on a frame is laid on it,
and this is pressed  down by means of a copper
roller or copper press.
  The sunk,  or chalk method, differs  from that
 termed relief, only in having stone much more
 corroded by  the  nitric acid.   In the flat method,
 less nitric acid  is used.  It is not to be supposed
 that the surface is quite plain in  this way, but the
 lines are very little raised so that they can scarcely
 be perceived to stand above the ground,  but by the
 finger.
 Process for printing designs with porcelain plates.
    Lithography  offers to draughtsmen  the means
 of multiplying original designs at pleasure; but it
 carries with it great difficulties for the impression.
 If the stones are defective,  if the workman is not
 clever and has not had long experience, the de-
 signs are  speedily impaired.  It  is then generally
 to be wished, that lithography might be rendered
 more simple, that the traits may not grow larger,
 and that it may be easy to  clean  the parts of the
 stone not  occupied by the drawing. M. Langlois,
 porcelain manufacturer at Bayeux, has discovered
 a peculiar composition which gives him the me-
 thod of tracing  with the pencil, and of fixing by a
 second dressing,  designs on the porcelain plates
 covered with  enamel,  and  of rendering the traits
 sufficiently rough to retain  the  ink in the impres-
 sion,  whilst the  enamel is washed that  surrounds
 them.  By  this method proofs may be multiplied
 to infinity,  without impairing the designs,  and
 traits extremely sharp, fine grains, and even smooth
 tints may  be obtained.
    To apply lithography to wood engraving.
   The stone should be covered with  a fat varnish,
 which may easily be removed with  an engraver's
 point.  Then let the stone be hollowed  out or bit,
 as copper is done, with aqua fortis,  so  as to pro-
 duce, however, a contrary effect,  for the traces of
 the design,  instead of being hollow, are here in re-
 lief.  The traces should be afterwards worked up
 and repaired,  and the hollow part dug stil. deeper,
 so as  to be out of the reach  of  the printer's ball.
 In this state, the stone will resemble an  engraving
 on wood, and may, in case of necessity, answer
 the same purpose, but it would not have the same
 solidity.   It may  be used, however, as a matrix
 for casting metal plates, presenting the adverse of
 the impression, and with the relief being now hol-
 low,  may themselves  serve to  cast new matrixes,
 in every respect similar to the  stone.  By this
 means, an endless number of impressions may  be
 taken, because the materials themselves may be
 multiplied.
   The invention is of advantage,  not only for vig-
 nettes and figures to be inserted  in the text, but
 also for imitating exactly Turkish or Chinese cha-
 racters, &c.   It may also be applied to printing of
 paper.
          To make lithographic pencils.
   Mix the following ingredients:
   Soap 3 ounces, tallow 2 ounces, wax 1 ounce.
   When melted smooth, add a sufficient quantity
 of lamp black, and pour it into moulds.
 To take impressions on paper from designs made
                   in stone.
   The stone  should  be  close  grained,  and the
 drawing or  writing should  be  made  with a  pen
 dipped in  ink, formed of a solution of lac, in leys
 of pure soda, to which  some soap  and lamp black
 should be  added,  for colouring.   Leave  it to har-
 den for a few days ; then take impressions in the
 following manner:  Dip the surface in water, then
 aab it with printer's ink and printer's balls.  The
 ink will stick to the design and  not to the stone,
and the impressions may be taken with wet paper,
by a rolling or screw press, in the ordinary  way.
Several  hundred copies may be  taken  from the
same design, in this simple manner.
     Cheap substitute for lithographic stone.
  Paste-board, or card paper, covered with an ar- 
68
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
gillo-calcareous mixture, has been employed with
complete success, and effects a great saving.  The
material is to be reduced to a powder, and laid on
wet; it sets, of course,  immediately, and may be
applied  to a more substantial article than paper,
and upon a more extensive  scale than the inventor
has yet  carried it to.   This coating receives the
ink or crayon in the same way that the stone does,
and furnishes impressions  precisely in the same
manner.
TO PAINT AND STAIN GLASS AND POR-
                   CELAIN.

  To paint upon  glass is an art which has gene-
rally appeared  difficult; yet there is no represen-
tation more elegant than that ofa mezzotinto paint-
ed in this manner, for it gives all the softness that
can be desired in a picture, and is easy to work,
as there are no outlines to draw, nor any shades to
make.
  The prints are  those done in mezzotinto: for
their shades being  rubbed  down  on the glass,  the
several lines, which represent the shady part of any
common  print, are by this means blended together,
and appear as soft and united as iu any drawing of
Indian ink.
  Provide such mezzotintos as are wanted; cut off
the margin; then get a piece  of fine crown glass,
the size of the print, and as flat and free from knuts
and scratches as possible;  clean the glass, and lay
some Venice turpentine, quite thin and smooth, on
one side, with a brush of hog's hair. Lay the print
flat in water, and let it remain on the surface till it
sinks, it is then enough; take it carefully out, and
dab it between some papers, that no water may be
seen, yet so as to be damp.
  Next lay the damp print with its face uppermost
upon a flat table; then hold the glass over it, with-
out touching the turpentine,  till it is exactly even
with the print,  let it fall gently on it.  Press the
glass down car3fully with the  fingers in  several
parts, so that the turpentine may stick to the print;
after which take it  up, then holding the glass to-
wards you, press the prints with the hngers,  from
the centre towards the  edges, till no  blisters re-
main.
  When this is done, wet the back of the paint with
a sponge, till the paper will rub oft" with the fingers;
then rub it gently,  and the white paper will roll off,
leaving the impression  only upon the glass; then
let it dry, and, with a camel's hair pencil,  dipped
in oil of turpentine, wet it all over, and it will be
perfectly transparent and fit for painting.
               Improved method.
  The first thing to be done, in order to paint, or
stain glass in the modern way,  is to design,  and
even colour the whole subject on paper.  Then
choose such pieces of glass as are clear, even,  and
smooth, and proper to receive  the several parts.
Proceed to distribute the design itself, or the pa-
per it is drawn on, into pieces suitable to those  of
the glass; always taking care that the glasses  may
join in the contours of the figures, and the folds of
the draperies; that  the carnations  and other finer
parts may not be impaired by the lead with which
the pieces are to be joined together.  The  distri-
bution being made, mark all the glasses,  as  well
as papers, that  they may be known again:  which
done, apply every part of the design upon the glass
intended for  it;  and copy or transfer the design
upon this glass  with the black colour diluted  in
gum-water, by tracing and follwwing all the lines
and  strokes that appear through the glass, with the
point ofa pencil.
  When these strokes are well dried, which will
 be in about  two days; (the work being only  in
 black and white,) give it a slight wash  over with
 urine, gum-arabic, and a little black; and  repeat
 this several times, according as the shades are de-
 sired to be heightened, with this precaution, never
 to apply a new wash till the former is sufficiently
 dried. This  done, the lights and risings are given
 by rubbing off the colour in the respective  places
 with a w ooden point, or by the handle of the pencil.
   The colours are used with gum-water, the same
 as in painting in miniature,  taking  Care to apply
 them lightly, for fear of effacing the outlines of
 the design; or even, for the  greater security, to
 apply them on the  other side; especially yellow,
 which is  veiy pernicious to the other colours,  by
 blending therewith.  And here too, as in  pieces of
 black and white, particular regard must always be
 had not to lay colour on colour, till such time as
 the former is well dried.
   When the painting of all  the pieces is finished,
 they are carried to the furnace to anneal, or to bake
 the colours.
     Colours propei* to paint with upon glass.
  The several sorts of colours, ground  in oil lor
 this purpose,  may be  had at all the capital colour
 shops, &c.
   Wldtes.—Flake white, podium.
  Blacks.—Lamp-black, ivory-black.
  Browns.—Spanish brown, umber, spruce ochre,
 Dutch pink,  orpiment.
  Blues.—Blue bice, Prussian blue.
  Reds.—Rose pink, vermilion,  red lead, Indian
 red, lake  cinnabar.
   Yellows.—English pink, masticot, English ochre,
 Saunders  blue, smalt.
   Greens.—Verdigris, terra vert, verditer.
  The ultramarine  for blue,  and the carmine for
 red, are rather to be bought  in powders, as in that
 state they are less apt to dry;  and as the  least tint
 of these will  give the  picture  a cast, mix up what
 is wanted for present use with  a d.sp or two of nut
 oil upon the pallet with the pallet-knife.
  To get the colour out, prick a hole at the bottom
 of each bladder, and  press it till there is enough
 upon the pallet for use.
  Then lay a sheet of white paper on the  table,
 and taking the picture in the  h ft hand, with the
 turpentine side next you, hold it sloping,  (the bot-
 tom resting on the white paper),  and all outlines
 and tints of the prints  will be seen on the  glass;
 and nothing remains but to lay on the colours pro-
 per for the different parts, as follow:—
              To use the colours.
  As the lights and shades of the picture open, lay
 the lighter colours first on the lighter parts of the
print, and the darker  over the shaded parts; and
having laid on the brighter colours, it is not mate-
rial if  the darker sorts are laid a little over them;
 for the. first colour will hide those  laid on after-
 wards.  For example:—
  Reus.—Lay on the first red lead, and shade with
lake or carmine.
  Yellows.—The lightest yellow  may be laid on
first, and shaded with Dutch pink.
  Blues.—Blue bice, or ultramarine,  used for the
lights, may be shaded with indigo.
  Greens.—Lay on  verdigris first, and then a mix-
ture of that and Dutch  pink.   This  green may be
lightened  by an addition of Dutch pink.
  When any  of these are too strong, they may be
lightened, by mixing white with  them upon the
 pallet; or darken them as  much as required by
 mixing them with a deeper shade of the same co-
 lour.
  The colours must not be laid on too thick; but,
 if troublesome, thin them before using them, witi
 a little turpentine oil. 
                                  TO PAINT (

   Take care to have a pencil for each colour,  and
 uever use that which has been used for green with
 any other colour, without first washing it well with
 ►.urpentine oil, as that colour is apt to appear pre-
 dominant when the colours are dry.
   Wash all the pencils, after using,  in turpentine
 oil.
   The  glass, when painted, must stand three or
 Four days free from dust, before it js framed.
               To draw on glass.
   Grind lamp-black with  gum water and some
 common salt.  With  a pen  or hair pencil, draw
 the design on the  glass,  and afterwards shade and
 paint it with any of the following compositions.
          Colour for grounds on glass.
   Take iron filings and Dutch yellow beads, equal
 parts.  If a little red cast is wanted, add a little
 copper filings.   With a steel muller grind these
 together,  on a thick and strong copper plate, or on
 porphyry.  Then add a little gum arabic, borax,
 common salt, and clear water.   Mix these with a
 little fluid, and put the composition in a phial for
 use.
   When it is to be used there is nothing to do but,
 with a hair pencil, to lay it quite flat on the design
 drawn the day before; and, having left this to diy
 also for another day, with the quill of a turkey, the
 nib unsplit, heighten the lights in the same manner
 as with crayons on blue paper.   Whenever there
 are more  coats of the above composition  put one
 upon another, the  shade will naturally be stronger;
 and, when this is finished, lay the colours for gar-
 ments and complexions.
            To prepare lake for glass.
   Grind the lake with water impregnated with gum
 and salt: then make use of it with the brush.   The
 shading is operated by laying a  double, treble, or
 more  coals  of the colour, where it is wanted
 darker.
   Blue purple for the same.—Make a compound of
 lake and  indigo, ground together with gum  and
 salt water; and use it as directed iu the preceding
 article.
   Green.—Mix with a proportionable quantity of
 gamboge, ground together as above.
   Yellow.—Grind gamboge with  salt water only.
   White.—Heighten much the white parts with  a
 pen.
        To  transfer engravings on glass.
  Metallic colours prepared and  mixed with fat
 oil are applied to the stamp on the engraved brass.
 Wipe witn the hand in the manner of the  printers
 of coloured plates; take a proof on a sheet of silver
 paper, which is immediately transferred on the ta-
 blet of glass destined to be painted, being careful
 to turn the coloured side against the glass; it ad-
 heres to it, and as soon as the copy is quite  dry,
 take off the superfluous paper by washing it with a
 sponge; there will remain only  the colour trans-
 ferred to the glass; it is fixed by passing the glass
 through the ovens.
  The basis of all the colours employed in painting
 on glass are oxidated metallic substances.
  In painting on glass it is necessary that the mat-
 ter should be very transparent.
 To prepare metallic  calces,  and  precipitates of
                     gold.
  A solution of gold in aqua-regia, which is evapo-
rated  to dryness,  leaves a ct.x of gold, which is
used for glass, enamel, and porcelain  gilding; or
by precipitating the solution with green vitriol dis-
solved in  water, with  copper, or  perhaps all the
metals  a similar  calx  is produced.  This calx is
mixed with  some essential oil, as oil of spike,  and
calcined borax, and the whole made to adhere to
t/ie surface of the glass, by a solution  of gum ara-
IN GLASS.                                  eg

 bic.   It is then applied with a fine pencil, and burnt
 in under a muffle.
            To prepare oxide of cobalt.
   When regulus of cobalt is exposed to a moderate
 fire in the open air, it calcines, and is reduced to a
 blackish powder.
   This calx vitrifies with vitrifiable  matters,  and
 forms beautiful  blue glasses.   Cobalt is, at pre-
 sent, the only substauce known which has the pro-
 perty of furnishing a  vjry fine blue,  that is not
 changed by the most intense heat.
                To prepare zaffre.
   Zaffre is the oxide ot cobalt, for painting pottery
 ware and porcelain of a  blue  colour.  Break the
 cobalt with hammers into pieces about the size of
 a hen's egg: and the stony involucrum, with  such
 other heterogeneous  matters  as are  distinguish-
 able,  separate as much as possible.    Pound the
 chosen  mineral  in  stamping-mills,  and  sift it
 through brass wire  sieves.  Wash off the lighter
 parts  by water, and afterwards put it into a large
 flat-bottomed arched furnace, resembling a bakinr
 oven, where the flame of the wobd reverberates
 upon  the ore  ; which  stir occasionally,  and  turn
 with long-handled iron hooks, or rakes; and the
 process  is to be continued till its fumes cease.
 The oven or furnace terminates by a long horizon-
 tal gallery, which serves  for a  chimney;  in which
 the arsenic, naturally  mixed  with the ore,  sub-
 limes.   If the ore contains a little bismuth, as this
 semi-metal is very fusible, collect it at the bottom
 of the furnace.  The  cobalt remains  in  the  state
 of a dark grey oxide and is called zaffre.  This
 operation is continued four, or even nine hours,
 according to the quality of the ore.  The roasted
 ore being taken out from the furnace, such parts as
 are concreted into lumps, pound and  sift afresh.
 Zaffre, in commerce,  is never pure,  being  mixed
 with two or rather three parts  of powdered flints.
 A proper quantity of the best sort of these, aftei
 being ignited in a furnace, are to be  thrown into
 water, to render them friable,  and more easily re-
 duced to powder; which, being  sifted, is mixed with
 the zaffre, according to the before-mentioned dose;
 and the mixture is put into casks, after being moist-
 ened with water.   This oxide,  fused  with  three
 parts of sand,  and one of potass, forms a blue glass
 which, when pounded, sifted, and ground in mills,
 (included in large casks), forms sma't.
   The blue of zaffre is the  most solid and fixed of
 all the colours employed in vitrification.   It suffers
 no change from the  most violent fire.  It is  suc-
 cessfully employed to give shades of blue to  ena-
 mels,  and to crystal glasses made in  imitation of
 opaque and transparent precious stones, as the lapis
 lazuli, the turquoise, the  sapphire and others.
           Purple precipitate of Cassius.
   Dissolve some pure gold in nitro-muriatic  acid,
 add either acid,  or metal, until saturation takes
 place.  Now dissolve some pure tin in the  same
 kind of acid; observe the sume point of saturation
 as with the gold;  and pour it into the  solution of
 gold.  A  purple powder  will  be precipitated,
 which must be collected  and washed  in  distilled
 water.
   This beautiful purple colour, as before mention-
 ed, is extremely useful to enamellers, and to glass
 stainers.
   When brought into fusion with a clear  transpa-
 rent glass, it  tinges it  of a purple, red, or violet
 colour.  Hence the method of making false rubies
 and garnets.
       To paint coloured drawings on glass.
   This art is  exercised two ways.  1. Plates of
 stained glass are cut into the shape of figures, and
 joined by leaden outlines.  On these plates, a 
»
70                          UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
shading is afterwards traced by the painter, which
gives features to the face, and folds to the drapery.
2. Vitrifiable colours are attached to plates of white
glass, which are afterwards placed in the oven, and
thus converted into a transparent enamelling. The
first sort is cheaper, but the shading wears off, by
the insensible corrosion of the atmosphere.  The
second sort defies every accident except fracture,
but the colour of the figures  suffers in the oven.
For small objects, the first  sort, and for large ob-
jects, the second, as far as art is concerned, seems
best adapted.
          To paint or stain glass black.
  The colours used  in painting or staining glass
are very different from those used in painting either
in water or oil colours.
  For black, take scales of iron, 1 oz.  scales  of
copper, 1 oz. jet, half oz.  Reduce them to pow-
der, and  mix them.
          To paint or stain glass  blue.
  Take fine white sand, twelve ounces, zaffre and
minium, each three  ounces; reduce them to a fine
powder in a bell metal  mortar, then put the pow-
der into a very strong crucible, cover it and lute it
well, and, being dry, calcine  it over a quick fire
for an hour; take out the matter and pound it: then
to sixteen ounces of this powder,  add  fourteen of
nitre powder; mix  them well, and put them into
the crucible agrdn: cover and lute it, and calcine it
for two hours on a very strong fire.
           To paint glass  carnation.
  Take red chalk, 8 oz.  iron scales, and litharge
of silver,  each 2 oz. gum arabic, half oz.  Dissolve
in water; grind altogether for half an hour till stiff,
then put the compound in a glass,  and stir  it well,
and let it stand for 14 days.
  Green.—Take red lead,  1 lb. scales of copper,
I lb. and flint, 5 lbs.   Divide them into three parts,
and  add  to them as much nitrate of potass; put
them into a crucible, and melt them  by a  strong
fire; and when  the  mass is cold, powder it, and
grind it on a slab of porphyry.
  Gold colour.—Take silver, 1 oz. antimony, half
oz.   Melt them in a crucible, then pound the mass
to powder, and grind it on  a copper plate; add to
it, yellow ochre, or  brick-dust calcined again, 1$
ounces, and grind them well together with water.
  Purple.—Take minium, 1 lb. brown stone, 1 lb.
white flint, 5  lbs. Divide them into three parts,
and add to them as much nitrate of potass as one
of the parts; calcine, melt, and grind the compound.
  Red.—Take jet, 4 oz. litharge of silver,  2 oz.
red chalk, 1 oz.   Powder them fine, and mix them.
  White.—Take jet, 2 parts, white flint,  ground
on a glass very fine,  1 part.   Mix them.
  Yellow.—Take Spanish brown, 10 parts, silver-
leaf, I part, antimony, half part.   Put all  into a
crucible, and calcine them well.
     TO COLOUR PAPER HANGINGS.

  There are three methods of effecting this.  The
first by printing the colours; the second by using
the stencil; and the third by laying them on with
a pencil, as in other kinds of painting.
             Printing the colours.
  When the colours are laid on, the impression is
made by wooden  prints, which are cut in such  a
manner that the figure to be expressed is made to
project from the surface, by cutting away all the
other part, and this being charged with the colours
properly tempered (by letting it gently down on
the block on which the colour is previously spread,)
conveys it to the ground of the paper, on which it
is made to fall forcibly by means of its weight, and
dv the effort of the arm of the person  who uses the
print.  There must be as many separate prints aa
there are colours to be printed.
                  Stencilling.
  The manner of stencilling the colours is this:
The figure, which all the parts  of any  particular
colour make in the uesign to be painted, is to be
cut out in apiece of tinned iron, thin leather, oroil-
cloth; these pieces are called stencils; and being
laid flat on the sheets of paper to be printed, spread
on a table or floor, are to be rubbed over with  the
colour, properly tempered, by means of  a large
brush.   The colour passing over the whole, is con-
sequently spread on those parts of the paper where
the tin, cloth, or leather is  cut away, and give the
same effect as if laid on by a print.  This i s, never-
theless, only practicable  in parts where there  are
only detached masses or spots of colours; for where
there are small continued lines, or parts that run
one into another, it is difficult to preserve the con-
nexion or continuity  of the parts of the cloth, or to
keep the smaller corners close down  to the paper:
therefore in such cases prints are preferable.
                  Pencilling.
  Pencilling is only used in the case of nicer work,
such as the better imitations of India  paper.  It is
performed in the same manner as other paintings
in water or varnish.   It is sometimes used only to
fill the outlines already formed by printing, where
the price  of the colour, or the exactness of  the
manner in which it is required to be  laid on, ren-
der the stencilling,  or  printing, less proper; at
other times, it is used for forming or delineating
some parts of the design, where a spirit of free-
dom and variety, not to be had in printed outlines,
are desirable in the work.
         To make flock paper hangings.
  The paper designed for receiving  the flock, is
first prepared  with a varnish ground with some
proper colour, or by  that of the paper itself. It ia
frequently practised to print some Mosaic, orbther
small running figure  in colours, on the ground,  be-
fore the flock be laid on; and it may  be done with
any pigment of the colour desired, tempered with
varnish, and laid on by a print cut correspondently
to that end.  The method of laying on the flock is
this: a wooden print  being cut, as above described,
for laying on the colour in such  a manner that  the
part of the design which is intended  for the flock
may project beyond  the  rest of the  surface,  the
varnish is put on a block covered with leather, or
oil-cloth, and the print  is  to be used also in  the
same manner, to lay the  varnish on  all  the parts
where  the flock is to be fixed.
  The sheet thus  prepared by the varnished im-
pression, is then to be removed to another block,
or table, and to be strewed over with  flock, which
is afterwards to be gently compressed by a  board,
or some other flat body,  to  make the varnish take
the better hold  of it: and then  the sheet is to be
hung on a frame till  the varnish be perfectly dry;
at which time the superfluous parts of flock are to
be brushed off by a soft camel's hair brush, and  the
proper flock will  be found to  adhere  in  a very
strong manner. The method of preparing the flock
is by cutting woollen rags or pieces of cloth, with
the hand, by means  of a  large bill or chopping
knife; or by means of a machine worked by a horse-
mill.
          TO  COLOUR MARBLE.

  This is a nice art, and, in order to succeed in it,
the pieces of marble on which the experiments are
tried, must be  well polished, and free from the
least spot or vein.  The harder the  marble is, the
better it will bear the heat necessary in the opera- 
                                ,   TO COLOI

inn;  therefore alabaster, and  the  common  soft
w hite marble, are very improper for performing
Jiese operations upon.
              Application of heat.
  Heat is always  necessary tor opening the pores
of marble, so as to render it fit  to receive the co-
lours; but the marble must never be made red-hot;
for then the texture of it is injured, and the colours
are burnt, and lose their beauty.  Too  small a de-
gree of heat is as bad as too great; for, in this case,
though the marble receives the colour, it will not
be fixed in it, nor strike deep enough.   The pro-
per degree is that which, without making the mar-
ble red, wiil make the liquor boil upon its surface.
      Menstruums to strike in tlie colours.
  These must be  varied according to the nature of
the  colour to be used.  A lixivium  made with
horse's  or dog's  urine, with four parts of quick
ljme, and one of  pot-ashes, is  excellent for some
colours;  common ley of  wood-ashes is very good
for others; for some, spirit of wine is best; and
lastly, for others,  oily liquors,  or common white
wine.
                    Colours.
  The colours which have been found  to succeed
best with the peculiar menstruums are these: stone-
blue dissolved in six times the quantity of spirit of
wine, or of the vinous lixivium,  and litmus dissolv-
ed in common ley of wood-ashes.   An extract of
saffron, and that colour made of buckthorn berries,
and called sap-green, both succeed well when dis-
solved in wine and quicklime.   Vermilion, and a
very fine powder of cochineal, also succeed very
well in the same liquors.  Dragon's blood succeeds
in spirit of wine, as does also a tincture  of logwood
in the same spirit. Alkanet-root gives a fine colour;
but the only menstruum to be  used with it is the
oil of turpentine.
           Dry and unmixed colours.
  Besides these mixtures, there are  other colours
which must be laid on dry and  unmixed: viz. dra-
gon's blood of the finest kind, for a red; gamboge
tor  a yellow; green wax, for  a green;  common
brimstone, pitch,  and turpentine, for a brown co-
lour.  The marble for these experiments must he
mads considerably hot, and then the colours are to
be rubbed on dry  in the lump.
           To give a fine gold colour.
  Take crude  sal ammoniac,  white vitriol,  and
verdigris, of each equal quantities.  Mix the whole
thoroughly in fine powder.
          To stain marble red or yellow.
  The staining of marble to all degrees of red or
yellow, by solutions of dragon's blood or gamboge,
may be done by reducing these gums  to powder,
and  grinding them with the  spirit of Wine in a
glass mortar.  But, for smaller attempts, no  me-
thod is so good as the mixing a little of either of
  The art of enamelling consists  in the applica-
tion of a smooth coating of vitrified matter to a
bright polished metallic surface.  It is, therefore,
a kind of varnish made of glass, and melted upon
the substance to  which  it is  applied, affording a
fine uniform ground for an infinite variety of orna-
ments which are also fixed on by heat.
R MARBLE.                               7]

those powders with spirit of wine in a silver spoon,
and holding it  over burning charcoal.   By this
means a fine tincture will be extracted: and with a
pencil dipped in this, the finest traces may be made
on  the marble while cold; which, on the heating of
it afterwards, either on sand, or  in a baker's oven,
will all sink very deep, .and remain perfectly dis-
tinct on the stone.  It  is very easy to make  the
ground colour of the marble red or yellow by this
mode, and leave white veins in it.   This is  to be
done by covering the places where the whiteness is
to remain with some white paint, or even with two
or  three doubles only of paper; either  of which
will prevent the colour from penetrating.
             To give a  blue colour.
  Dissolve turnsole in lixivium, in lime and urine,
or in the volatile spirit of urine; but a better blue,
and used in an easier manner, is furnished by the
Canaiy turnsole. This is  only to be dissolved in
water, and drawn on the place with a pencil: it pene-
trates very deeply into the marble; and the colour
may be increased,  by drawing the pencil wetted
afresh  several  times over the same lines.  This
colour  is  subject to spread and diffuse itself irre-
gularly; but it may be kept in regular bounds, by
circumscribing its lines with beds of wax, or any
such substance.  It should always be laid on cold,
and no heat given afterwards to the marble.
    To prepare brimstone in imitation of marble.
  Provide a flat and smooth piece  of marble; on
this make a border  or wall, to encompass either a
square or oval table, which may be done either
with wax  or clay.   Then having several  sorts of
colours, as white lead, vermilion, lake, orpiment
masticot,  smalt, Prussian blue, &c. melt on a slow
fire some  brimstone in several glazed pipkins;  put
one particular sort of colour  into each, and  stir it
well together; then having before oiled the marble
all over within the  wall with  one colour, quickly
drop spots upon it  of larger  and less size; after
this, take another colour and do as before, and  so
on  till the stone is covered with spots of all the co-
lours designed  to be used.   When this is  done,
consider next what  colour the mass  or ground of
the table is to be: if of a grey colour, then take fine
sifted ashes, and mix it  up with melted brimstone;
or  if red, with  English  red ochre; if white, with
white lead;  if black, with lamp or ivory black-
The brimstone for the ground must be pretty hot,
that  the coloured  drops on the stone may unite
and  incorporate with it.  When  the ground is
poured even all over, next, if necessary, put a thin
wainscot board upon it:  this must be done  while
the brimstone  is hot,  making also the hoard hot,
which  ought to be thoroughly dry, in  order to
cause the  brimstone to stick  better to it.  When
the whole is cold, take it up, and polish  it with a
cloth and  oil, and it will look very beautiful.
  The only metals that are enamelled are gold and
copper; and with the latter the opaque enamels
only are used.  Where  the enamel is transparent
and  coloured, the metal chosen should not only
have  its  surface unalterable when fully red-hot,
but also be in no degree chemically altered by the
close contact of melted glass, containing an abun-
ENAMELLING. 
n
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
dance of some kind of metallic oxide.  This is the
chief reason why coloured enamelling on silver is
impracticable, though the brilliancy of its surface
is not impaired by mere heat; forifan enamel, made
yellow by oxide  of lead or antimony, be laid on
the surface of bright silver, and be kept melted on
it for a certain time, the silver and  the enamel act
on  each other so powerfully,  that the colour soon
changes from a yellow to an orange, and lastly to a
dirty olive.  Copper is equally altered by the co-
loured enamels,  so that gold is the only  metal
which can bear the long contact of the coloured
glass at a full red heal without bei ng altered by them.
             To enamel dial plates.
  A piece of thin sheet  copper, hammered to the
requisite convexity, is first accurately cut out,  a
hole drilled in the middle for the axis of the hand?,
and both the  surfaces  made perfectly bright with
a brush.  A small rim is then made round the cir-
sumference, with a thin  brass band rising  a little
above the level, and a similar rim round the mar-
gin of  the  central hole.  The use of these is to
confine  the enamel when in fusion, and to keep
the edges of the plate quite neat and even.   The
substance of the  enamel is a fine  white opaque
glass; this is bought in lump by the enamellers, and
is first broken down with a hammer,  then ground
to a powder sufficiently fine, with some water, in
an agate mortar; the superfluous water being then
poured off,  the pulverized enamel remains ot about
the consistence of wetted sand, and  is spread very
evenly over the  surface of the  copperplate.  In
most enamellings, and especially on this, it is ne-
cessary also to counter-enamel the  under concave
surface of  the copperplate,  to prevent its being
drawn out of its true shape by the unequal shrink-
ing of the  metal and enamel, on  cooling.  For
this kind of work, the counter-enamel is only about
half the thickness on the concave, as on the convex
side.  For flat plates, the thickness  is the same on
both sides.
  The plate, covered with the moist enamel pow-
der, is warmed and thoroughly dried, then gently
set upon a thin earthen ring, that supports it only
by touching the outer rim, and put gradually into
the red hot muffle of the ename.ller's furnace.  This
furnace is  constructed somewhat like the ass^y-
furnace, but the  upper part alone of the muffle is
much heated, and some peculiarities are observed
in the construction, to enable the artist to govern
the fire more  accurately.
  The precise degree of heat to be  given here, as
in all enamelling,  is that at which the particles of
the enamel run together into an uniform pasty con-
sistence, and extend themselves evenly, showing a
fine polished face; carefully avoiding, on the other
hand, so great a heat as would endanger the melt-
ing of Che thin metallic pkte.  When the enamel
is thus seen to sweat down, as it were, to an uni-
form glossy glazing,  the piece is gradually with-
drawn and cooled, otherwise it would fly by the
action of the cold air.
  A second coating of  enamel is then laid on and
fired as before; but this time, the finest powder of
enamel is taken, or that which remains suspended
in the washings.  It is then ready  to receive the
figures and division marks, which are made of a
black  enamel,  ground  in  an agate mortar, to a
most impalpable powder, worked up, on a pallet,
with oil of lavender, and laid on with an extremely
fine hair brush.   The plate is then stoved to eva-
porate the essential oil, and the figure is burnt in
as  before.   Polishing  with tripoli,  and  minuter
parts of the process, need not be here described.
 'To make the purple enamel used in the Mosaic pic-
          tures of St. Peter's at Rome.
   Take of sulphur,  saltpetre,  vitriol, antimony,
 and oxide of tin, each, 1 lb. minium, or oxide of
 lead,  60 lbs.
   Mix all together in a crucible, and melt in a fur-
 nace: next take it out aid wash it to carry off the
 salts:  after melting in the crucible,  add 19 ounces
 of rose copper, half an ounce of prepared zaffre, 1
 ounce and a half of crocus marlis, made with sul-
 phur, 3 ounces of refined borax, and 1 lb. ot a com-
 position of gold, silver, and mercury.
   When all are well  combined, the mass is to be
 stirred  with a copper rod, and the  fire gradually
I diminished to prevent the metals from  burning.
I The composition thus prepared is finally to  be put
 into crucibles and placed in  a reverberatory fur-
 nace,  where they are to remain  24 hours.  The
 same  composition will answer for other colours, by
 merely changing the  colouring matter.  This com-
 position has almost all the characters of real  stone;
 and when broken, exhibits a  vitreous fracture.—
 Philosoph.  Mag.
       To make white enamel, for porcelain.
   Mix 100 parts  of  pure lead with  from 20 to 25
 of the best tin, and bring them to a low  red heat
 in an  open vessel. The mixture then burns nearly
 as rapidly  as charcoal,  and  oxidates very fast.
 Skim  off the crusts of oxide successively formed,
 till the whole is thoroughly calcined.
   Then mix all the skimmings, and again heat as
 before,  till  no flame arises  from them, and the
 whole is of an uniform  grey  colour.  Take 100
I parts  of this oxide, 100  of white sand, and 25 or
 30 of  common salt,  and  melt the whole by a mo-
 derate heat.  This gives a greyish mass, often po-
 rous  and apparently imperfect,  but which, how-
 ever,  runs to a  good enamel when  afterwards
 heated.
           For metals and finer works.
   The sand is previously calcined in a very  strong
 heat with a fourth of  its weight; or, if a more fusi-
 ble compound is wanted,  as much of the oxides of
 tin and lead as of salt are taken, and the whole is
 melted  into a white porous  mass.   This is then
 employed instead of the rough sand, as in the pre-
 ceding process.
|   The above proportions, however,  are not inva-
I riable, for if more fusibility is wanted,  the dose of
i oxide is increased, and that of the sand diminished,
I the quantity of common  salt  remaining the  same.
I The sand employed in this process is not the com-
I mon sort, however fine;  but a  micaceous sand, in
I which the mica forms about one-fourth of the mix-
I ture.
            New enamel for porcelain.
I   Melt together, pulverized  feldspar,  27  parts,
1 borax 18 parts, sand, 4 do. potash, nitre,  and pot-
' ter's earth, 3 parts each.
   Then add three parts of borax  reduced to fine
 powder.
   From the trial which the society of Arts in Lon-
 don ordered to be made of this enamel, it has been
 found superior to any hitherto known.  It is easily
| and uniformly applied, and spreads without pro-
 ducing  bubbles,  or  spoutings out; it  neither co-
 vers nor impairs  even the most delicate colours.
j It incorporates perfectly with them, and the por-
' celain which is  covered over with it may pass  a
{ second time through the fire,  without this enamel
 cracking or breaking out.
            Malerialfor  opaque enamels.
    Neri, in his valuable  treatise on  glass making,
 has long ago given the  following proportions for
 the common material of all the opaque enamels,
 which Kunckel and  other practical chemists have
 confirmed.—Calcine 30  parts of lead, with 33 of
 tin, with the usual precautions.  Then take of this
 calcined mixed oxide 50 lbs. and as much ofpow-
' dered flints (prepared by being thrown into watci 
ENAMELLING.
73
when red hot, and then ground to powder), and 8 |
ounces  of salt of tartar;  melt the mixture in a
strong fire kept up for ten hours, after which re-
duce the mass to powder.
               To make it white.
  Mix 6 lbs. of the  compound with 48 grains of
the best black oxide of manganese,  and melt in a
clear fire.  When fully  fused, throw it into cold
water, then  re-melt and cool as  before, two  or
three  times, till the enamel is quite white and fine.
           Rich red coloured enamel.
  The most beautiful  and costly colour known in
enamelling, is an exquisitely fine rich red, with a
purplish tinge, given by the salts and oxides of
gold;  especially by the purple precipitate, formed
by tin in one form or other; and by nitromuriate
of gold; and  also by the  fulminating gold.   This
beautiful colour requires much skill in the artist,
to be fully  brought out.  When  most perfect it
should come from the fire quite colourless, and af-
terwards receive its colour by the flame of a can-
dle.
  Other, and common reds, are given by the oxide |
of iron;  but this requires the mixture of alumine,
or  some other substance refractory  in the  fire,
otherwise at a full  red heat,  the colour will de-
generate into black.
To pi°epare the flux for enamelling on glass vessels.
  Take of salurnus glorificatus, I lb. natural crys-
tal, calcined to whiteness, 1-2 lb. salt of polverine,
1 lb.
  Mix them  together,  and bake in a slow heat for
about 12 hours, then melt the mass, and pulverize
the same in an agate mortar, or any other proper
vessel, which is not capable of communicating any
metallic or other impurity.
             To prepare glorificatus.
  Take litharge  of white lead, put it in a pan,
pour  on distilled  vinegar, stirring it  well over a
gentle fire till the vinegar becomes impregnated
with the salt of the lead; evaporate half the vine-
gar, put it in a cool place to crystallize, and keep
the crystals dry for use.
             To make green enamel.
  Take of copper-dust, 1 oz. sand,  2 oz. litharge,
1 oz. nitre,  ^ oz.   Or, copper, 2  oz.  sand, 1 oz.
litharge, 2 oz. nitre, 1$ oz.
  Mix them  with dqual parts of flux, or vary the
proportions of them as  may be found necessary,
according to  the tint of colour required.
  Black enameli—Take  of calcined iron, cobait,
crude or prepared,  each  1 oz.  Or, zaffre,  2 oz.
manganese, 1 oz.
  Mix them  with equal parts Of flux,  by melting
or grinding together.
  Yellow enamel.—-Take  of lead and tin  ashes,
litharge, antimony  and sand, each  1  oz. nitre, 4
ounces.
  Calcine, or melt them  together;  pulverize, and
mix them with a due. proportion of flux, as the na-
ture of the glass may require; or take more or less
of any or all  of the above, according to the depth
of colour desired.
  Blue enamel.—Take of prepared cobalt, sand,
red-lead, and nitre, each 1 oz. flint glass, 2 oz.
  Melt them together by fire, pulverized and flux-
ed according  to the degree of softness,  or strength
of colour required.
  Olive enamel.—Take, of the blue as prepared
above, 1 oz.  black, £ oz.  yellow, £  oz.   Grind
them  for use.  If necessary add flux  to make it
softer.
  White enamel.—Take of tin, prepared by aqua-
fortis, and red-lead, each  I oz. white pebble-stone,
or natural  crystal,  2 oz. nitre,  1 oz. arsenfo 1
drachm, with equal parts of flux, or more or less,
      K
as the softness or opacity may require: melt to-
gether, calcine, or use raw.
  Purple enamel.—Take the finest gold ; dissolve
it in aqua-regia, regulated with sal-ammoniac; put
it in a sand heut for about 48 hours, to digest the
gold, collect the powder,  grind it with 6 times its
weight of sulphur, put it into a crucible on the fire
till the sulphur is evaporated; then amalgamate the
powder with twice its weight of  mercury,  put it
into a mortar or other vessel, and rub it together
for about six hours, with a small quantity of water
in the mortar, which change frequently; evaporate
the remaining mercury in a crucible, and add to
the powder 10 times its weight of flux, or more or
less, as the hardness or softness of the colour may
require.
  Rose-coloured enamel—Take  purple as  pre-
pared above, mix  it with 30 times its weight of
flux, and 100th part of its weight of silver leaf, or
any preparation of silver, or vary the proportion of
the flux and silver as the quality of the colour may
require;  or any of the other preparations for  pur-
ple will  do,  varying the proportions of the flux
and silver as above; or any materials, from which
purple can be produced, will, with the addition of
silver and flux, answer.
  Brown enamel.—Take of red-lead, 1 ounce, cal-
cined iron, 1 oz.  antimony, 2 oz. litharge, 2 oz.
zaffre. I oz. sand, 2 oz.
  Calcine, or melt together,  or  use raw, as may
be most expedient;  or vary the proportions of any
or all the above, as tint or quality may require.
              Mode of application.
  The preceding colours may be applied to vessels
of glass in the following manner,  viz. by painting,
printing,  or transferring,  dipping, floating,  and
grounding.
  By painting.—Mix  the colours (when reduced
by grinding to a fine powder) with  spirits of tur-
pentine,  temper them with thick oil of turpentine,
and  apply them with camel-hair  pencils, or  any
other proper instrument, or mix them with nut or
spike oil, or any other essential or volatile oil, or
with water, in which case use gum  arabic,  or any
other gum that will dissolve in water, or with spi-
rits,  varnishes, gums of every kind,  waxes, or re-
sins;  but the first is conceived to be the best.
  By printing.—Take a glue bat, full size for the
subject, charge the copperplate with the oil or co-
lour, and take the impression with the bat from the
plate, which impression transfer on the  glass: if
the impression is not  strong enough, shake some
dry colour on  it which will adhere to the moist co-
lour; or take any engraving or etching, or stamp,
or cast, and having charged it with the oil or co-
lour,  transfer it on the  glass by means of prepared
paper, vellum, leather, or any  other,, substance
that will answer; but the first  is the best.   Any
engravings,  etchings,  stamps, casts, or devices,
may  be charged with  waters, oils,  varnishes, or
glutinous matters of anykird, reduced to a proper
state, as is necessary in  printing in general; any
or all of these may be used alone, or mixed  with
the colours.  When used alone,  the colour is to
be applied in powder.
  By dipping.—Mix the colour to about the  con-
sistency of a cream  with any of the ingredients
used for printing, in whieh dip the glass vessel,
and keep it in  motion till smooth.
  By floating.—Mix the  colour  with any of the
ingredients used for printing, to a consistency ac-
cording to the strength of the ground  required,
float it through a tube, or any other vessel, moving
or shaking the piece  of  glass till  the colour is
spread over the part required.
  By grounding.—First charge  the  glass  vessel 
74
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 with oil of turpentine, with a camel-hair pencil,
 and while moist apply the colour In a dry pi wder,
 which will adhere to the oil, or, instead  of oil of
 turpentine, use any of the materials used-for print-
 ing;  but the first is the best.
 Cautions to be observed in making  coloured ena-
                      mels.
   In making these enamels, the following general
 cautions are necessary to be observed.   1st. That
 the pots be glazed with white glass, and be such as
 will bear the fire.
   2d. That the matter of enamels be very nicely
 mixed with the colours.
   3d. When the enamel  is good,  and  the colour
 well  incorporated, it must be taken  from the fire
 with  a pair of tongs.
    General method of making coloured enamels.
   Powder, sift, and grind all the colours very nice-
 ly, and first mix them with one another,  and then
 with  the common matter  of enamels;  then  set
 them in pots in a furnace, and when they are well
 mixed and incorporated, cast them into water, and
 when dry, set them in a furnace again to melt, and
 when melted take a proof of it.  If too deep  co-
 loured, add more of the common matter  of ena-
 mels; and if too pale add more of the colours.
       To obtain black enamel with platina.
   Mix some chlorine of platina, dissolved in wa-
 ter, with neuter-nitrate of mercury,  and expose
 the precipitate,  whichwill be formed, to a heat
 simply sufficient to volatilize the proto-chlorine of
 mercury;  there will be obtained a black  powder,
 which, applied  with a dissolvent or flux, gives a
 beautiful black  enamel.—Annales de  Chimie.
         To make enamel, called niello.
  Take I  part of pure silver,  2 of copper, and 3
 of pure lead, fuse them together, and pour the
 amalgam into a long-necked earthenware matrass,
 half filled  with levigated sulphur; let the mouth
 of the vessel be immediately closed, and  the con-
 •ents left to cool. The mass which results, when
levigated and washed, is ready for the purposes of
the artist.  The cavities left by the fusion having
been filled with  it, the plate  is to be held over a
 small furnace, fed with a mixture of charcoal and
wood, taking care  to  distribute the  enamel with
the proper instrument.  As soon as fusion has  ta-
ken place, the plate  is to be removed;  and, when
sufficiently cooled, is to be cleared by the  file, and
polished by fine pumice and tripoli. \
              To paint in  enamel.
  The enamel painter has to work, not with actual
colours, but with mixtures, which he only knows
from experience will produce certain colours after
the delicate operation of the fire; and to the com-
mon skill of the painter, in the arrangement of his
palette and choice of his colours, the enameller has
to add much practical knowledge of the chemical
operation of one. metallic oxide on another; the fu-
 sibility of his materials; and the utmost degree  of
heat at which they w'll retain, not  only the accu-
racy of the figures which he has given, but the pre-
cise shade of colour which he intends to lay on.
  Painting in enamel requires a succession of fir-
ings:  first of the ground which is to receive the
design, and which itself requires two firings, and
then of the different parts of the design itself  The
ground is laid on in the same general way as the
common watch  face enamelling.  The colours are
the different metallic oxides,  melted with some
vitrescent mixture, and ground to extreme fineness.
These are worked up with an essential oil (that of
 spikenard is preferred, and next to it oil of laven-
 der) to the proper consistence of oil colours, and
 are laid on with a very fine hair brush.   The es-
 sential oil should be very pure, and the use of this,
 rather than of any fixed oil, is, that the whole may
 evaporate completely in a moderate heat, and leave
 no carbonaceous matter in contact with the colour
 when red hot, which might affoctits degree of oxi-
 dation, and thence the shade of colour which it is
 intended to produce.   As the colour of some vitri-
 fied metallic oxides  (such  as  that  of gold) will
 stand at a very moderate heat,  whilst others will
 bear, and even require a higher temperature to be
 properly fixed, it forms a great  part of the techni-
 cal skill of the artist to supply the different colours
 in proper order; fixing first those shades which are
 produced by the colours that will endure the high-
 est, and finishing with those  that demand the least
 heat.  The outline of the design is first traced on
 the enamel, ground and burnt in;  after which, the
 parts are filled up gradually by repeated burnings,
 to the last and finest touches  of the tenderest ena-
 mel.
   Transparent enamels are scarcely ever laid upon
 any other metal than  gold, on account of the  dis-
 coloration produced by other metals.   If, however,
 copper is the metal used, it is first covered with a
 thin enamel coating, over which gold  leaf is  laid
 and burnt in, so that,  in fact, it  is still this metal
 that is the basis of the ornamental enamel.
      To manufacture  Mosaic as at Rome.
  Mosaic work consists of variously shaped pieces
 of coloured glass enamel; and when these pieces
 are cemented together, they form those regular
 and other beautiful figures which constitute tessel-
 lated pavements.
  The enamel, consisting of glass mixed with me-
 tallic colouring matter, is heated for eight days in
 a glass-house, each  colour in  a separate pot.   The
 melted enamel is taken out with an iron spoon, and
 poured  on polished marble  placed  horizontally;
and another flat marble  slab  is  laid upon  the sur-
 face, so that  the enamel cools  into the form of a
 round cake, of the thickness  of three-tenths of an
 inch.
  In order to divide the cake into  smaller pieces,
 it is placed on a sharp steel anvil, called tagliulo,
 which has the edge uppermost;  and a stroice of an
edged hammer is given on the upper surface of the
cake, which is thus divided  into  long parallele-
pipeds,  or prisms,  whose bases are three-tenths of
an inch square.  These parallelopipeds are  again
divided across their length by  the tagliulo and ham-
 mer into pieces of  the length of eight-tenths of an
 inch, to  be used in the Mosaic pictures.   Some-
times the cakes are made thicker and the pieces
larger.
  For smaller pictures, the enamel, whilst fused,
is drawn into long parallelopipeds, or quadrangu-
lar sticks; and these are divided  across by  (lie tag-
liulo and hammer, or  by a file; sometimes, also,
these pieces are divided by  a saw without teeth,
consisting of a copper  blade  and emery;  and the
pieces are sometimes  polished on  a horizontal
 wheel of lead with emery.
                Gilded Mosaic.
  Gilded Mosaic is formed by applying the gold
leaf on the hot surface of a brown  enamel, imme-
 diately after the enamel is taken from the furnace;
the whole is put into the furnace again for a short
time, and when it is taken out the gold is firmly
 fixed  on the surface.  In the  gilded enamel, used
 in Mosaic at Rome, there is a thin coat oftranspa
 rent glass over the gold. 
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
75
ENGRAVING.
   The different modes of engraving are the follow-
 ing:—
   1. In strokes cut through a thin wax, laid upon
 the copper, with a point, and  these strokes bitten
 or corroded into the copper with aqua-fortis. This
 is called etching.
   2. In strokes with the graver alone unassisted by
 aqua-fortis.  In this instance,  the design is  traced
 with a sharp tool,  called a dry point,  upon the
 plate; and the strokes are cut or ploughed upon the
 copper with an instrument distinguished by the
 name of a graver.
   3. In mezzotinto, which is  performed by a dark
 ground being raised uniformly upon the plate with
 a torthed tool.
   4. In aquatinta, the outline is first etched, and
 afterwards a sort of wash is laid by the aqua-fortis
 upon the plate, resembling drawings in Indian ink,
 bistre, &c.
   5. On wood, performed with a single block.
   6. On wood, with two, three, or more blocks.
   This mode of engraving is called chiar' oscuro,
 and was designed to represent the  drawings of the
 old masters.
   7. Engraving on steel.
                   Etching.
  Etching is a method  of working  on  copper,
 wherein the lines or strokes instead of being cut
 with a graver, are eaten with aqua-fortis.
                Materials, &c.
   The principal materials for this art are, the cop-
 per-plate, hard and soft ground, (the first for win-
 ter, and the other for summer,) a dabber, turpen-
 tine-varnish, lamp-black, soft wax, and aqua-fortis.
   The tools are an oil-rubber, a burnisher,a scraper,
 a hand-vice,  etching-boards, etching-needles,  an
 oil stone, and a parallel ruler.
        To lay on the ground  or varnish.
   Having provided a plate of the size  of the draw-
 ing intended to be copied, rub it well with an oil-
 rubber made of swan-skin flannel, till all the  marks
 of the charcoal used  in polishing it, entirely  disap-
 pear; then, wipe off  the dirty oil with a linen rag,
 dip the finger in some clean oil, and touch it over
 every part of the plate; after which, with the bur-
 nisher, polish the plate; and in case any sand-holes
 or flaws  appear, the scraper will assist in taking
 them out.  The marks left by the scraper are to
 be taken out by the burnisher till nothing appear.
 Having fixed the hand-vice at  one end of the plate
 with a rag and whiting, clean the plate  carefully
 from grease; then heat it over a charcoal fire, or
 lighted paper, lay the ground on thinly, arid dab it
 all over with the dabber, till it is perfectly smooth
 and even; then warm the plate again, and, holding
 it up with the ground downwards, smoke it all over
 with a wax candle, taking care that the snuff of it
 does not touch the ground, and wave the candle
 continually over every part, so that the ground may
 not be  burnt by heating it more in one place than
 •mother.   If the plate be large, bind four wax-ta-
ners together.
              To trace the outlines.
  Ru>  the back part of the drawing all over with
a bi'. cfi rag or cotton, dipt in the scrapings of red
chalk, and shake off the loose  dust, or wipe it off
gently  with a clean rag.  Place the red side upon
the plate, making it fast at  each corner with a lit-
 tle bit of soft wax.   Lay the etching board  under
the hand, to prevent bruising the ground; f'.ien with
a blunt etching needle trace  lightly  the outlines
and breadths of the shadows till the marks of them
appear upon the ground, taking care not to pene-
trate it by tracing too hard.
  As great nicety is required  in this  part of the
work, it will be necessary now and then to lift up
one corner of the original, and examine whether
every part be traced before the taking it off, as it
will be extremely difficult to lay it down again in
its former position.
             Directions for etching.
  Having carefully traced the original, take it  off,
and lay  a silk handkerchief next  the  plate,  and
over that the etching board;  then  proceed to  the
etching; for which,  observe  the following direc-
tions.
  Distances in landscapes, or the faint parts of any
other picture, are the first  tc be done: and these
are to be worked closer, and with a  sharper pointed
needle: the  darker parts must be etched wider,
and with a blunter needle; but to prevent mistakes,
the needles may be marked according to their  dif-
ferent degrees,  and the uses for which they are in-
tended.   As for the very faintest parts of all, they
are to be left for the graver, or dry needle.
  In buildings, and all architecture in general, use
a parallel ruler, till frequent  practice enables  the
artist to do them well enough without.
  The needles  may, when necessary, be whetted
upon the oil-stone, keeping them  turning in  the
hand, so as to whet them equally all round.  The
oil-stune  will be further useful in whetting  the
scraper, which  is to be r.bbed flat  upon the stone,
and with a steady hand, keeping oil constantly upon
the stone.
    To bite or eat in the work with  aquafortis.
  Examine the work carefully and see that nothing
is omitted; and if any  scratches appear upon  the
ground, or mistakes be  committed, stop them out,
by  covering them with a mixture of  lamp-black
and varnish, laid on  thinly  with a  hair-pencil,
which, when dry, will  resist  the  aqua-fortis.   I*
will be better, however, to stop these out, as they
occur in  the course of the  work, as they will
be less liable to escape notice; when the varnish is
dry, etch it over again if required.
  Then inclose the work with a rim or border of
soft wax, about half an inch high, bending the wax
in the form, of a spout, at one corner,  to pour  oft'
the aqua-fortis; take care to lay the wax so close
to the plate that no vacancies be left.
  The aqua-fortis must be single; and if too strong,
as will be seen  in the biting, take  it off, and mix
it with a little water, shaking them together in  a
bottle; and when, by often using,  it becomes  too
weak, it may be strengthened by mixing it with a
little double aqua-fortis. The bottle  which con-
tains the aqua-fortis, should  have  a large mouth
and a glass stopper.
  Let the aqua-fortis lie on the plate a  short time,
wiping off vhe bubbles as they arise with a feather,
which may remain upon the plate while it is bit-
ing; after which take it off, and wash the plate with
water; then let it dry, and by scraping off part of
the ground from the faintest part of the work,  try
if it be  bit enough; and if not, slop out the part
which has been tried with the lamp-black and var-
nish, and when that is dry,  pour on the a^ua-fortis
again.
  When the faint parts of the work are bit enough,
stop them out,  and proceed to bite the stronger
parts, stopping them out as occasion requires,  till 
7G                            UNIVERSAL K

the whole work is sufficiently bit; then warm the
plate, and take off the soft wax: after which, heat
the plate  till the ground melts, pour on a little oil,
and wipe the  whole off with  a rag.   When the
ground is taken off, rub the work well with the oil-
rubber, and wipe the plate clean; then proceed to
finish it with the graver.
                Engraving tools.
   The tools necessary for engraving,  are the  oil-
rubber, burnisher, scraper, oil-stone, needles,  and
ruler, alreadv  mentioned to be used  in etching;
also gravers, compasses, and a sand bag.
   Gravers are  of two sorts, square and lozenge.
Three of each sort should be provided.  The first
is used  in cutting the broader strokes, the  other
for the fainter  and  more  delicate  ones.    No
graver should exeeedthe length of five inches  and
a half, the handle included, excepting for  straight
lines.
   The sand-bag or cushion  is used to lay  the
plate on, for the convenience of turning it about.
         To whet and temper the graver.
   As great pains are required to whet  the graver
nicely,  particularly the belly of it, care must be
taken to lay  the two  angles of the graver, which
are to be held next the plate, flat  upon the stone,
and rub them steadily, till the belly rises gradual-
ly above the plate, sc that when the graver is laid
flat upon it, the light may be  just perceived under
the point, otherwise it will dig into the copper, and
then it will be impossible to keep a point, or exe-
cute the work with freedom.   Keep the right arm
close to the  side, and place  the forefinger of  the
left hand upon that part of the graver  which  lies
uppermost on the stone.  When this  is done, in
order to whet the face, place the flat part of the
handle in the hollow of the hand, with the belly of
the graver upwards, upon a  moderate slope, and
rub the extremity or face upon the stone, till it has
an exceeding sharp point.  The oil-stone, while in
use, must never be kept without oil.
  When the graver is too hard, which may be
known by the frequent breaking of the point,  the
method of tempering it is as follows:—
  Heat a poker red-hot, and  hold tlie graver upon
it within half an inch of the point, waving it to and
fro till the steel changes to  a light straw colour;
then  put  the point  into oil to cool; or hold  the
graver close to the flame of a candle till it be of
the same  colour, and cool it in the tallow; but be
careful either way not to hold it too long, for then
it  will be  too soft; andinthis case the point, which
will then turn blue, must  be broken off, whetted
afresh, and tempered again if required.
               To hold the graver.
   Hold the handle in the hollow of the hand, and
extending the fore-finger down towards the point,
let it rest u^on the back of the graver, so as to hold
it flat and parallel with the plate.
   Take care that the fingers do not interpose  be-
tween the plate and the graver, for they will pre-
vent the artist from carrying the graver level with
the plate, and from cutting the strokes so  clean as
they ought to be.
         To lay the design upon the plate.
   After polishing it fine and smooth, heat it so that
it will melt  virgin wax, with which rub it thinly
and equally over/and let it cool.  Then the design
must be drawn on paper with a black lead pencil,
and laid upon the plate with its pencilled side upon
the wax;  press it to, and with a burnisher go over
every part of the design; then with a sharp-pointed
tool, trace it through the wax upon the plate, take
off the wax  and proceed to work.
             To engrave  on copper.
   Place the sand-bag on a firm table, or fixed board
with the plate upon  it; and  holding the graver as
CEIPT BOOK.

 above directed, proceed to business in the follow-
 ing manner:—
   For straight strokes, hold the plate firm upon the
 sand-bag with the left hand, moving the right hand
 forwards, leaning lighter where the stroke should
 be fine, and harder where it should be broader.
   For circular or crooked strokes, hold the graver
 steadfast, moving the  hand or the  plate as  most
 convenient.  Carry the hand with such a sleight,
 that the stroke may be ended as finely as it was be-
 •Min;  and if  there is occasion to make one  part
 deeper or blacker than anotner, do it by  degrees,
 taking care that the strokes be not too close nor too
 wide.
   In the course of the work, scrape off the bur or
 roughness which arises with the belly of the grav-
 er, but be careful in doing this, not to scratch the
 plate; rub it  with the oil rubber, and wipe the plate
 clean, which will take off the glare of the copper,
 and shew what has been done to the best advantage.
 Any  mistakes or scratches in the  plate may be
 rubbed out with the burnisher, and the part level-
 led with the  scraper, polishing it  again afterwards
 lightly with the burnisher.
   The piece may now be finished by graving up
 the several parts  to the colour of the original, be-
 ginning, as in etching, with the fainter parts, and
 advancing gradually with the stronger, till the whole
 is completed.
   The dry needle (so called because not used till
 the ground is taken off the plate) is principally em-
 ployed in the extreme light parts of water, sky, dra-
 pery, architecture, &c.
   To prevent too great a degree of light, use a sash,
 made of transparent or fan paper, pasted on a frame
 and placed sloping at a convenient distance between
 the work and the light.
      To engrave upon copper in alto relievo.
   The new art of engraving  upon copper, vhich
 Mr Lizars of Edinburgh has invented, is  a substi-
 tute for wood engraving, in the same manner as li-
 thography is a substitute for  copper-plate engra-
 ving; but while Mr Lizars has given us a cheaper
 art for a more expensive one, he has also given us
 a more perfect art for one which is full ol imper-
 fections.
   In  the  common operation of engraving, the de-
 sired effect is produced by making incisions upon
 the copper-plate  with a steel instrument of an an-
 gular shape,  which  incisions are filled with print-
 ing ink, and  transferred to the  paper by the pres-
 sure of a roller,  which is  passed  over ;ts surface.
 There is another mode of producing these lines 01
 incisions by means of diluted nitrous acid, in which
 the impression is taken in the same way.   Mr Li-
 zars' new method of engraving is done upon a prin-
 ciple exactly the reverse, for instead of the subject
 being cut into the copper, it is the interstice between
 the lines which is removed by diluted aqua-fortis,
 and the lines are left as the surface:  from  which
 the impression is taken by  means  of a  common
 type  printing press,  instead of  a copper-plate
 press.
   This is effected by drawing with common tur-
 pentine varnish, covered with lamp-black, whatever
 is required upon the plate, and when the varnish
 is thoroughly dry, the acid is poured  upon it, and
 the interstice of course removed by its action upon
 the uncovered part of the copper.  If the subject is
 very full of dark shadows, this operation will be
 performed with little risk of accident, and with the
 removal of very little of the interstice between the
 linelt but if the distance between the lines is great,
 the risk and difficulty  is very  much  increased, and
 it will be requisite to cut away the parts which sur-
 round >he lines, with a grayer, in order to prevent
 the dabDer with  the prinUi.g  ink from  reaching
E 
ENGRAVING.
77
the bottom, and thus producing a blurred impres- I
sion.   It is obvious, therefore, that  the  more the
plate is covered with work, the less risk will there
be in the preparation of it with the acid, after the
subject is drawn, and the less trouble will there be
in removing the interstice (if any) from those places
where there is little shading.
    To make bordering wax for copperplates.
  Take one-third of bees wax, and two-thirds of
pitch;  melt them  in  a pipkin or  iron ladle, and
pour them into luke-warm  water.  When well
mixed, and the water is squeezed out, form it into
rolls of convenient size.
  When wanted for use, ."t must be put into luke-
warm water to soften it, and render it easily worked
by  the nand.   When  sufficiently pliable, it must
be  drawn  out  into long rolls, and put round the
edges of the plate, from half an inch to an inch
high.   Mould a spout at one corner to pour off the
aqua-fortis.
  Another method.—Melt bees-wax with  a small
portion of  Venice turpentine  and  tallow, until it
becomes of a proper consistency.
  TJiis is used for placing round the plate about
an inch high, previously to pouring on the aqua-
fortis.  At one corner a spout or gutter should be
made for the purpose of pouring offthe aqua-fortis,
when the etching is sufficiently bit in.
To make Rembrandt's white varnish for engraving.
  Take of virgin-wax, one ounce,  of mastic, half
an ounce, of calcined asphaltum, or of amber, half
an ounce.  Pound the mastic and asphaltum sepa-
rately  in a mortar; put the wax into a new earthen-
ware pot well glazed, and place it over a fire, till
the wax be melted; then sprinkle in, by little and
little,  the mastic and asphaltum, and stir the mix-
ture well together till the whole be incorporated.
Pour the melted matter afterwards into clean water,
and form it into a ball which  must  be kept for use.
  In using this varnish, it is proper to take particu-
lar care of three things.  The first, not to heat the
plate too much when the varnish  is put upon it.
The second, to lay the first coat of varnish as thin
as possible, in order to be able to spread the white
varnish upon it, without rendering the whole of too
great a thickness: The tIJrd, to omit blackening
this varnish with smoke, as is done with the com-
mon; but when it is become  entirely cold, take  a
piece of white lead, and having ground it extreme-
ly fine, temper it with gum water; and then, with
a pencil, lay  a coat of it very thinly and equally
over the whole plate.   This is the manner in which
Rembrandt varnished his plates.
               Callot's soft varnish.
  Take of virgin-wax, four ounces, of amber, (or
of  the best asphaltum calcined),  and of mastic,
each two ounces, of resin, common pitch,  or shoe-
maker's wax, each one ounce, and  of varnish, or
turpentine, half an ounce.
   Having  prepared all these ingredients, take  a
new earthen-pot, and put it over the fire, with the
virgin-wax in it; and when that is melted, add gra-
dually to it the pitch; and afterwards the powders,
stirring the mixture each time in proportion to the
addition made to it. When the whole is sufficiently
melted and mixt together, take the pot from the
fire, and having poured the mass in an earthen ves-
sel, full of clean water, form  it into balls, by work-
ing it  with the hands, and keep them in a box, free
from  dust, for use.
  The two ounces of mastic are to be used only in
summer, because it hardens the varnish, and pre-
serves it from being cracked by the engraver's lean-
ing over the plate  during the graving; but in that
designed  for  winter, ouly one ounce  should be
put                                           '
              Salmon's soft varnish.
   Take of virgin-wax, four ounces, asphaltum, two
 ounces, amber and mastic, each one ounce.
   The preparation is much the  same as for the
 preceding, only caution should be used that the
 fire be not too  strong, as the varnish will, other-
 wise, be apt to burn.  This varnish is only  for
 summer use, and would be too hard for winter.
         Excellent Parisian soft varnish.
   Take of virgin-wax, and of asphaltum, or Greek
 pitch, each one ounce; of black pitch, half an ounce,
 and of Burgundy pitch, a quarter of an ounce. The
 asphaltum must be pounded in a mortar, and the
 wax melted over  a  slow fire, in a pot of glazed
 earthenware; and the re3t of the ingredients added
 little by little,  stirring the mixture accordingly,
 till the whole  be  well  melted and incorporated;
 and  taking care that the matter be not suffered  to
 burn.  Afterwards throw  the whole mass into an
 earthen vessel full of  clean water, and knead it
 with the hands, to form  it  into little balls; and then
 roll  them up in new strong taffety for use.
   Another soft varnish.—Take of virgin-wax, two
 ounces and a half, of Burgundy pitch, three ounces,
 of resin,  half an ounce,  asphaltum, two  ounces,
 and  turpentine, one  penny-worth: this  varnish is
 very good, and  well approved.   The preparation
 is the same  as that of those already given.
             Lawrence's soft varnish.
   Take of  virgin-wax  and asphaltum, each two
 ounces, of black pitch  and Burgundy pitch, each
 half an ounce.   Melt the  wax and pitch in a new
 earthen-ware glazed pot, and add to them, by de-
 grees, the asphaltum finely powdered.  Let  the
 whole boil  till such time, as that taking  a drop
 upon a plate,  it will break when  it is cold,  on
 bending it double three or four times, betwixt the
 fingers; the varnish being then enough boiled, must
 be taken off the fire, and  having  been suffered to
 cool a little, must be poured into  warm water, that
 it may work the more easily with the hands, so as
 to be formed into balls, which must be wrapt in
 taffety for use.
   It must be observed, first, that the fire be not too
 violent, for fear of burning the ingredients;  a slight
 simmering will be sufficient:  2dly, that while the
 asphaltum is putting in, and even after it is mixt
 with them,  the ingredients should be stirred con-
 tinually with a  spatula; and 3dly, that the water,
 into which  this composition is \nrown, should  be
 nearly of the  same degree of warmth with it, to
 prevent a kind of cracking that happens when the
 water is too cold.
   The varnish ought always to be harder in sum-
 mer than in winter, and it will become so,  if it be
 suffered to boil longer, or if a greater proportion
 of the asphaltum or brown resin  be used.
        To  apply soft varnish to copper plates.
   The plate being well  polished anil burnished,
 also cleansed from all greasiness, by chalk or Spa-
 nish white, put it upon a chafing-dish, in which
 there is a moderate fire, observing to hold it so that
 it may not burn.  It is to  be left  over the fire, till
 it be so hot that the varnish, being brought in con-
 tact with it, may  melt.  Then take some of the
 soft varnish well" wrapt up in taffety, that  is free
 from all grease and dirt, and also  strong and sound
 in every part.  With this rub the plate, fixed over
 the  fire till  it grow hot.  In doing this, it should
 be gently passed from one side to the  other in a
| right line, so as to form several rows, till the plate
 be every where moderately covered.   After this,
 with a sort of ball made  of cotton,  tied up in taffety,
 beat every part of the plate gentiy, while the var-
 nish is yet in a fluid state; and to unite it still more,
1 and give it a finer grain,  it is proper *»■ take  the 
78
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
  plate from the fire immediately, and continue strik-
  ing it on every part  with  the ball, till it  attain a
  harder  consistence  m cooling.  This must not,
  nevertheless, be prolonged till the varnish be too
  eold, for then the ball would be apt to make it rise
  from the plate.
             Le Basse's hard varnish.
   Take of Greek or Burgundy pitch and resin, or
  colophony of Tyre,  or  common  resin, each two
  ounces.   Melt them together upon a moderate fi re,
  in a  new earthen pot, well glazed; and, these in-
  gredients being thoroughly mixt, put to them eight
  ounces of good nut, or linseed oil, and incorporate
  the whole well together, over the fire, for  a full
  half hour.  Continue afterwards to boil the mix-
  ture  till such time as, having taken a little of it
 out, and suffered it to cool, it ropes on touching it
 with the finger, like  a very thick syrup.   Take the
 pot then from the fire, and the varnish being a lit-
 tle cooled, pass it through a new linen  cloth, into
 some vessel that will  not soak it up, and can be well
 corked.   Varnish made in this manner, may be
 kept for twenty years, and will, indeed be the bet-
 ter for age.
             To blacken tlxe varnish.
   When the plate is  uniformly and thinly covered
 with  the varnish, it must be biackened by a piece
 of flambeau, or large wax  candle  which affords a
 copious smoke: sometimes 2, or even 4 such can-
 dles are  used together, for the  sake  of dispatch,
 that the varnish may  not grow cold during the ope-
 ration.  The plate must be heated again, that  it
 may  be  in a melted  state  when the operation of
 blackening is performed;  but great care must be
 taken not to burn it, which may be easily perceiv-
 ed by the varnish smoking and running into little
 lumps, as if it had contracted some foulness.
   It is proper likewise to be very cautious in keep-
 ing the flambeau or candle at a due distance from
 the plate, for fear the wick  should touch the var-
 nish,  which would both sully and  mark it.  If it
 anpear that the black has not penetrated the var-
 nish,  the plate  must  be again placed, for a short
 time,  over  the chafing-dish; and it will  be  found,
 that in proportion as the plate grows hot, the var-
 nish will melt and  incorporate with  the  black,
 w.iich lay above it, in  such a manner that the whole
 will be equally pervaded by it.   .
   Above all things, the greatest caution should be
 used in this op< ration to keep a  moderate  fire all
 the time, and to move the plate  frequently, and
 change the place of all the parts of it, that the var-
 nish  may be alike melted every  where, and be
 kept from burning.  Care must betaken, that du-
 ring this time, and even till the varnish be entirely
 cold,  no filth, sparks,  nor dust, fly on it, for they
 would then stick fast and spoil the work.
      To apply hard varnish to copperplates.
   The plate  being perfectly cleansed and freed
 from  greasiness,  must be put on  a  chafing-dish,
 containing a small fire; and  when it is become mo-
 derately hot, it must be taken off again, in order
 to receive the varnish, which must be thus laid on:
—Take a proper quantity of the varnish, and put-
 ting it on the end of the finger with a stick or other
 small   instrument, touch  the plate with it gently,
in order that it  may be spread in small spots of the
same  size,  at  as  equal distances as possible over
every  part; and if the plate cool too much  before
the whole be finished, heat it again as at first, care-
fully preserving it, nevertheless, from any dust or
foulness that may be liable to fall upon it.   When
this is done, spread the varnish with a little ball,
or puff, made of the cotton  and taffety, as is done
in the  case  of the soft varnish.
 To take soft varnish off the plates wlien tlie corro-
                 sion is finished.
   When  the soft varnish is to be taken off, after
 I finishing the corrosion,  the  plate must firs  be
 | warmed at the fire, and the border of wax rou .1 it
  removed.   Then it must be made hotter til) the
  mixture  or composition,  as well as the varnish
 i melt, when it must be well  wiped with » oJean
  linen cloth, afterwards  rubbed  heartily in  every
 I part with oil of olives: which  being performed, it
  is ready to  be re-touched by the graver, if there hi
 J occasion.
             To remove the hard varnish.
    Choose  a very soft coal of fallow wood,  and,
  without burning  it,  strip  off the bark, and then
  dipping it in water, of which some likewise should
  be poured on the  plate,  rub the varnish with it,
  but  continually the same  way as in polishing the
  copper, which will take  off the varnish.  Be par-
  ticularly careful, nevertheless, to prevent any gra-
  vel  from falling on the plate; as also to observe
  that there are no hard grains in the coal, for either
  of these would make scratches on the plate, which
  would be very difficult to  efface, especially  upon
  the tender parts.
  To  cleanse copperplates after the removal of the
                     varnish.
   When the varnish is all taken off from the plate,
  the copper remains of a disagreeable colour,  from
  the effect the fire and water have had upon it; but
  in order to restore it to its  usual appearance, use
 this  method;—Take some of the refiners' aqua
 fortis, and  if it be pure, put twb-thirds, or more,
 of water to  it.   Then take a linen rag  dipped in
 the aqua fortis  thus lowered with water, and rub
  with  it all  the  engraved parts of the copper, by
  which it will be found to become bright and clean,
 and of the common colour of copper.
   Wipe the plate immediately after this with an-
l other linen rag that is dry and clean,  till not the
 least of the aquafortis and water  remain on it, and
 pour upon it afterwards a little olive oil, and  with
 a small piece of old hat,  or  other such thing,  rub
 the oil strongly over every  part of it.   After this
 clean the plate with a linen cloth, being cautious
 not to employ the rag for that purpose which had
 been used to wipe off the refiners' aquafortis.
       To prepare box-wood for engraving.
   The wood being chosen,  and cut into a proper
 form and size, it must be planed as even and truly
 as possible, and will be then ready to receive the
 drawing or chalking, of  the design to be  en-
 graved.
   Now take white lead and  temper it with watd
 by grinding; then spread it  first thinly on the sur-
 face by  a brush pencil, and afterwards rub it well
 with  a fine linen rag, while yet wet, and, when it
 is dry, brush oft"  any loose or  powdery  part by a
 soft pencil.
   If the design be sketched on the wood by draw-
 ing, it may be done by Indian or common ink (but
 the first is far preferable), either by a pen or pen-
 cil, or by a black-lead pencil, though that scarcely
 marks strong enough for finer work.
        To free  copperplates from grease.
   When the plates are desigued for etching, being
 thus  finished with the burnisher, they should be
 well washed  with clean water, and then  dried by
 the fire.  After  which  they  should be wiped dry
 with  a linen cloth; and  to  be certain that there
 may be no kind of grease upon them they should
 be rubbed over with the crumb of very stale bread.
 Scraping very soft chalk over it, and rubbing the
 plate well, are very sure means of preventing either
 any grease, bread, or other foulness whatever re-
 maining.
     To secure copperplates from corrosion.
   Take equal p«irts  of wax and  turpentine, and
 double the quantity of olive oil, with  the same
 quantity of hog's lard.  Melt the whole over the
 fire in an earthen vessel, taking care to  mix the 
ENGRAVING.
79
ingredients  well,  and  leave  them to boil some
time, till they be well incorporated.
  The advantage of this mixture is, that it may at
any time, being warmed, be put with the finger on
the places desired  to be covered; by which means
the further  operation of the  aqua fortis on such
places,  may  be instantly prevented without  any
other trouble or preparation, or without interrupt-
ing or delaying the principal operation.
  This mixture may be employed equally well
with the hard as with the soft varnish; the inten-
tion of using such a composition is, if any scratches
or false strokes happen in the etching,  they are to
be  stopped  out with a  hair pencil  dipped in  this
composition  mixed  with lamp-black, previously
to laying on the aqua fortis, or as it is  called, bit-
ing in.
        To choose copper for engravtiig.
 ■ Plates intended  for engraving ought to be of the
best copper,  which should be veiy malleable, firm,
and with some degree of hardness, free from veins,
or specks, or dissimilar parts.  The redness of
copper is  a presumptive mark of its being good,
but not an infallible one; for though it is, in gene-
ral, a proof of the  purity of the copper, yet it does
not evince that the quantities  may  not be injured
by too frequent infusion.
  Copper-plates may be had  ready prepared in
most large towns;  but when these cannot be  had,
procure a pretty  thick sheet of copper, rather
larger than the drawing, and let the brazier plan-
ish it well; then take a piece of pumice-stone, and
with water rub it all  one way, till it  becomes toler-
ably smooth and level; a piece of charcoal is next
used with water for polishing  it still farther,  and
removing  the deep scratches made by the pumice-
stone, and it is then finished with a  piece of char-
coal of a finer grain,  with a little oil.
            To engrave in  mezzotinto.
  This art is recommended for the amazing ease
with which it is executed, especially by those who
have any notion of drawing.
  Mezzotinto  prints are  those which  have no
hatching or strokes of the graver, but whose lights
and shades are blended together,  and appear like
a drawing of Indian ink.
  The  tools used in this  art, after procuring  a
well-polished copperplate, are—oil-stone, ground-
ing-tools,  scrapers, burnishers, aud  needles.
               To lay the ground.
  Mark off upon the bottom of the plate the dis-
tance intended for  the writing, coat of arms,  fete.
then lay the plate, with a piece of swan-skin flan-
nel under it, upon the table, hold the  grounding- |
tool in the hand perpendicularly; lean upon it mo- [
derately hard, continually rocking  the hand  in  a
right line from end to end,  till the plate is wholly ]
covered in one  direction:  next cross  the strokes j
from  side to side, afterwards from corner to cor-
ner, working the tool each time all over the plate, !
in every direction, almost like th„ points of a com- !
pass;  taking all  possible care not to  let the tool cut
(in one direction)  twice  in a  place.-. This done,
the plate  will  be full,  or all l-ough  alike,  and
would,  if it  were  printed,  appear completely
black.
  Having laid the ground, take the scrapings of
black chalk, and  with a piece of  rag, rub them
over the  plate; or,  with two  or  three candles,
smoke it,  as before directed for etching.
  Now take the print or drawing, and having rub-
bed  the back with  red chalk-dust, mixed with
white lake, proceed to trace it on the plate.
          'To whet the grounding-tool.
  If a tooth of the tool  should break, it may be
perceived  in the  working by a streak or  gap,
which will appear in the ground in a straight line;
 in which  case the tool must  be whetted  on the
 back, holding it sloping, and in a circular manner,
 like the bottom of the tool.
              To scrape the picture.
  Take a bluot  needle, and mark  the outlines
 only; then with a scraper, scrape off the lights in
 every part of the plate, as clean and as-smooth as
 possible, in proportion to the strength of the lights
 in the picture, taking care not to hurt the outlines:
 and in order to  see  better, with  the thumb and
 fore-finger of the left hand, hold a piece of trans-
 parent  paper, sloping, just over  the  right hand,
 and the artist will soon be a judge of the ditterent
 tints of the work he is doing; scraping off more or
 less of  the ground,  as the different strengths of
 lights and tints require.
  1'he use of the burnisher is to soften and rub
 down the extreme light parts after the  scraper is
 done with: such as the tip of  the  nose, forehead,
 linen, &c.  which might otherwise, when proved,
 appear rather misty than clear.
  Another method.—Etch the outlines of the ori-
 ginal, as also of the folds in drapery, marking the
 breadth of the shadows by dots, which having bit
 of a proper colour with aqua  fortis,  take off the
 ground used in etching, and, having laid the mez-
 zotinto ground, proceed to scrape the plate as aoove.
  Four or five days before the plates are ready foi
 proving, notice must be given to the rolling press
 printer tp wet some French paper, or a thick mel-
 low paper in imitation of it, as that time is neces-
 sary for it  to lie in wet.  When the proof is dry,
 touch it with white chalk where it should be light-
 er, and  with black chalk where it should be  dark-
 er;  and when the print is re-touched, proceed as
 before for the lights, and for the shades use a small
 grounding-tool, as much as is necessary to  bring
 it to the proper colour;  and when this is  done,
 prove it again, and so proceed to prove and touch
 till it is entirely finished.   When the plate tar-
 nishes,  a little vinegar  and salt,  kept in a phial,
 will take it off, wiping it dry with  a clean rag.
  Avoid as much as possible over-scraping  any
 part before the first proving, as, by this caution,
 the work will appear the more elegant.
            To engrave in aquatinta.
  This very much resembles drawing in  Indian
 ink.   This process consists  in corroding the cop-
 per with aqua-fortis,  in such a manner, that an im-
 pression from it has the appearance of a tint laid
 on the paper.  This  is effected by covering the
 copper with a substance which takes a granulated
 form, so as to prevent the aqua-fortis  from  acting
 where the particles  adhere,  and by  this  mean3
 cause it to corrode the copper partially, and in in-
terstices only. When these particles are extreme-
 ly minute, and near to each other, the impression
 from  the plate appears  to the naked eye  like a
 wash of Indian ink.   But when they  are larger,
the granulation is more distinct; and  as this may
be varied at pleasure, it is capable of being adapt-
 ed to a variety of purposes and subjects.
  The matter generally used for this purpose, is
composed of equal parts of asphaltum and transpa-
rent  resin,  reduced  to powder and sifted on the
plate, (which has been previously greased,) through
a fine sieve.  The plate is  then heated so as to
make the powder adhere, and the artist scrapes it
away when a strong shade is wanted, and  covers
those parts with varnish  where  he wishes  a very
strong light to appear.  The aqua-fortis, properly
diluted with water, is then put on  within a  fence
of wax, as in common etching for  engraving, and
by repeated applications, covering the light parts
 still with varnish, the effect is produced.
             To engrave on wood.
  The block is commonly  made of pear-tree, oe 
80                            UNIVERSAL
3CE1PT BOOK.

 lines may be traced on it, the plate lying on a pane
 of glass fixed in a table,  slightly inclined so that
 the light may be thrown under it.
 Simpie method of etching glass,  as  applied to ther-
                   mometers.
   Coat the glass to be graduated, &c. with yellow
 wax, and trace with a steel point whatever is in-
 tended to be etched.  Now dip  the  glass in sul-
 phuric acid, and shake over it some finely pulver-
 ized fluate of lime (fluor spar).   This salt will be
 decomposed by the affinity of lime for sulphuric
 acid.  Accordingly the fluoric acid  will be set free
 to attack  the  silica  of the glass.   Corrosion of
 those parts which are uncovered by the wax, will
 be the consequence.
          To eitgrave on precious stones.
  The first thing to he done in this branch of en-
 graving, is t">  cement two rough diamonds to the
 ends of two sticks large enough to hold them stea-
 dy in the hand, and  to rub or grind them against
 each other, till they be brought to the form desir-
 ed.  The dust or powder that is rubbed off, serves
 afterwards to polish them, which is performed by
 a kind of mill that turns a wheel of soft iron. The
 diamond is fixed in a brass dish; and, thus applied
 to the wheel, is covered with diamond dust, mix-
 ed up  with  oil of olives;  and when  the diamond is
 to be cut facet-wise,  first one face, and  then an-
 other is applied to the wheel.  Rubies, sapphires,
 and topazes, are cut and formed the same way on
 a copper wheel, and polished with  tripoli diluted
 in water. Agates, amethysts, emeralds, hyacinths,
 granites, rubies, and others of  the softer stones,
 are cut on a leaden wheel  moistened with emery
 and water, and polished  with tripoli on a pewter
 wheel.   Lapis-lazuli, opal, &c.  are polished on a
 wooden wheel.
  To fashion and engrave vases of agate, crystal,
 lapis-lazuli, or the like,  a kind of lathe  is made
 use of,  similar to that used by pewterers,  to hold
 the vessels, which are to be wrought with proper
 tools.   The engraver's lathe generally holds the
 tools, which are turned by a wheel; and the vessel
 cut and engraved, either in relievo or  otherwise;
 the tools being moistened from  time to time with
 diamond dust and oil, or at least emery and water.
 To engrave figures  or  devices on any  of these
 stones, when polished,  such as  medals, seals, &c.
 a little iron wheel is used,  the ends of  whose axis
 are received within two pieces of iron,  placed up-
 right,  as in the turner's lathe;  and to  be brought
 closer, or set further apart, at pleasure; at one end
 of the axis are fixed the proper tools, being kept
 tight by a screw. Lastly,  the wheel is turned by
 the foot, and the stone, applied by the hand to the tool,
 then shifted and conducted as occasion requires.
  The tools are generally of iron,  and sometimes
 of brass; their form is various.   Some have small
 round  reads,  like  buttons,  others  like ferrels,
 to take the pieces out, and others flat, Sec.  When
 the  stone has been  engraved,  it  is polished on
 wheels of hair-brushes and tripoli.
             To engrave upon steel.
  Steel blocks,  or plates of sufficient  size to re-
 ceive the intended engraving, are softened, or de-
 carbonated  upon their substances, and thereby ren-
 dered a better material for receiving all  kinds ol
 work, than even copper itself.  After the  intended
 work has been executed  upon the block, it is hard-
 ened with great care by a new process,  which pre-
 vents injury to the roost  delicate work.  A cylin-
 der of steel, previously softened, is then placed in
 the transferring press, and repeatedly passed over
 the  engraved blocks, by which the  engraving is
 transferred, in relief to the periphery of the cy-
 linder, the  press having a vibrating motion, equal-
 ling that of the cylinder upon  its  axis, by which
  box, and differs in thickness according to its size.
  The surface for the engraving is on the transverse
  section of the wood; the subject is drawn upon it
  with a pen and Indian ink,  with all the finishing
  that it is required to have in the impression.  The
  spaces between the lines are cut away with knives,
  chisels, and gouges, leaving the  lines that have
  been drawn with the ink.
    The  taking  impressions from  blocks  of wood
  differs from that of copperplate in this, that in the I
  latter they are delivered from the  incision, while
  in the wooden blocks they are delivered from the
  raiseu part.
                  Chiar' oscuro.
    This method of engraving is  performed with
  three blocks.  The outline is cut in one,  the deep
  shadows in a second, and the third gives a tint i
  over the whole, except where the lights are cut
  away.   These are substituted in their  turn, each i
  print  receiving  an  impression from each block. (
  This mode of engraving was designed to represent
  the drawings of the old masters.
                To etch upon glass.
    Procure  several  thick  clear pieces of crown
  glass, and  immerse them in  melted wax, so that
  each may receive a complete coating.  When per-
  fectly cold, diaw on them, with a fine steel point,
  flowers, trees,  houses, portraits,  &c.  Whatever
  parts of the drawing are intended  to be corroded
  with the acid, should be perfectly free from  the
  least particle of wax.  When all" these drawings
 are finished, the pieces of glass must be immersed
  one by  one in  a  square leaden box or receiver,
  where  they are to be submitted  to the action of
 fluoric acid, or fluoric acid gas.
   It will be necessary to have some water in the
  receiver for the absorption of the superabundant
  gas; and the  receiver should  have a short leaden
  pi pe attached to it for the reception of the beak of
 the retort.  This should be  well luted with wax.
 At the top of the receiver there is a sliding door
 for the admission of the plates: this is  to  be well
 luted whilst the gas is acting.  When the glasses
  are sufficiently corroded, they are to be taken out;
  and the wax is to be removed by first dipping them
  in warm, and then in hot water.  Various colours
  may be  applied to the corroded parts of the glass,
  whereby a very fine painting may be executed. In
  the same manner, sentences and initials of names
  may be  etched on wine-glasses, tumblers,  Sec.
   Anothei method.—Glass may also be  etched, by
  immersing it in liquid fluoric acid, after having
  been coated with wax and drawn on, as inthe last
  method. There is this difference,  however, in the
  use of the liquid and the gas,  that the former ren-
f ders the etching transparent,  whilst that produced
  by the gas is quite opaque.
    In this method the potass of the glass is set free,
  whilst the silex or sand is acted on; consequently
  no vessel of glass can ever be employed  with safety
  to contain this acid in a liquid state, as it would
  soon be corroded into holes: it is, therefore, gene-
  rally preserved in leaden bottles, on  which it  has
  .10 power to act.
            Varnish coating preferable.
    In coating the glass with wax as above directed,
  it is almost impossible to lay it on sufficiently thin.
  The consequence of this is,  that the lines traced
  by the point will be found irregular, ragged, and
  destitute of that delicacy which is required.   The
  strong varnish  used  by engravers  answers much
  better, provided it be very carefully applied.   Be-
  fore doing so, the glass must be thoroughly clean-
  ed and heated, so mat it can hardly be held.   The
  varnish is then to be applied lightly over, and
  made smooth by dabbing it with small balls of silk,
  stuffed  with  cotton   When dry  and even,  the 
ENGRAVES G.
81
new surfaces are presented equalling the extent of
engraving.   This cylinder  is then hardened, and
is ready tor indenting either copper or steel plates,
which is done  by placing it in the same press be-
fore described, and repeatedly pressing it over the
copper or steel plates, thereby producing  another
engraving identically like  that upon the original
block.   This  may be repeated upon any required
number of plates, as the original engraving will
remain to produce other cylinders, if ever requir-
ed, and when transferred to steel plates, and hard-
ened, they will also serve as additional matrices j
for the production of new cylinders.              I
      Etching liquor for plates ofieft steel.
  Dissolve a quarter of an ounce of corrosive sublU
mate and the same quantity of alum, both powder-
ed, in half a pint of hot  water.
              Directions for use.
  When cold, pour it on to your plate, and  keep
stirring it with a  camels'  hair brush;  wash the
plate perfectly after each biting, and throw  away
the portion of liquid you have employed; delicate
tints are obtained in about three minutes, stronger
ones in proportion.
DYEING,  IN  ALL ITS  VARIETIES.
             To prepare mordants.
  Dyeing is a chemical  process, and consists in
combining a certain colouring matter with fibres
of cloth.   The facility with which cloth imbibes a
dye, depends upon two circumstances;  the union
of the cloth and the dye-stuff, and the union of the
dye-stuff, or dyeing material, and the fluid in which
it is dissolved.  Wool  unites with almost all co-
louring matters, silk  in the  next degree,  cotton
considerably less, and linen  the least of all.  To
dye cotton or linen, the dye-stuff, or colouring ma-
terial,  should, in many cases,  be dissolved in a
substance for which it has a weaker connexion than
with the solvent employed in the dyeing of wool
or silk.  Thus we may use the colour called oxide
of iron, dissolved in sulphuric acid, to dye wool;
but to  dye cotton and linen, it is necessary to dis-
solve it in acetous acid.   Were it possible to pro-
cure a sufficient  number  of colouring substances,
having a strong affinity for cloths, to answer all the
purposes of dyeing, that art would be  exceedingly
simple and easy.  But this is byno means the case.
Thisdifficulty has, however, been obviated byavery
ingenious contrivance.  Some  other substance  is
employed which strongly unites with the cloth and
the colouring matter.   This substance,  therefore,
is previously combined with the cloth,  which  is
then dipped into a solution containing' the colour.
The colour then combines with the intermediate
substance, which, being firmly  combined with the
cloth,  secures the permanence  of the dye.   Sub-
stances employed for this purpose are denominated
mordants.
           To choose and apply t/iem.
  The most important part ot dyeing is, therefore,
the choice and application of mordants; as upon
them, the permanency of almost every dye depends.
Mordants must be previously dissolved in some li-
quid, which has a weaner union with the mordants
than the cloth  has; and the cloth  m'-st then be
steeied in this solution, so as to saturate itself with
the mordant.  The most important, and most gene-
rally used mordant is alumine.  It is used either in
a state of common alum, in which it is  combined
with sulphuric acid, or in that state called acetite
of alumine.
           Use of alum as a  mordant.
  Alum, to make a mordant, is dissolved in water,
and very frequently, a quantity of tartrate of potass
is dissolved with it.  Into this  solution  woollen
cloth is put, and kept in it till it has  absorbed as
much alumine as is  necessary.   It is then  taken
out, and for the most part washed and dried.  It is
now a good deal heavier than it was before, owing
to the alum which has combined wrth it.
              Acetite of alumine
  Ts prepared as a mordant by pouring acetite of
lead into a  solution of alum.   This mordant is em-
ployed for cotton and linen.  It answers for these
much better than alum; the stuff is more easily sa-
turated with alumine, and takes, in consequence
a richer and more permanent colour.
              IVIiite oxide  of tin.
   This mordant  has enabled the moderns greatly
to  surpass many of the ancients in  the fineness of
their colours;- and even to equal the fi«ious Tyrian
purple;  and by means of it scarlet, the brightest of
all colours, is produced.  It is the white oxide of
tin, alone,  which is the real mordant.
   Tin is used as a mordant in three states: dissolv-
ed in nit.ro-muriatic acid, in acetous acid, and in a
mixture of sulphuric and muriatic acids;  but nitro-
muriate of tin is the common mordant employed by
dyers.  They prepare it by dissolving tin in dilut-
ed nitric acid,  to which a certain proportion of
common salt, or sal ammoniac, is added.
   When the nitro-muriate of tin is to be used as a
mordant, it is dissolved in a large quantity of water,
and the cloth is dipped in the solution, and allowed
to remain till sufficiently saturated.  It is then taken
out, washed and dried.  Tartai is usually dissolv-
ed in the water along with the nitro-muriate.
              Red  oxide of iron.
   This is also used as a mordant in dyeing; it has
a very strong affinity  for all kinds of cloth, of which
the permanency  of red iron-spots, or iron-moulds,
on linen and cotton is a sufficient proof.  As a mor-
dant it is used in two states: in that of sulphate of
iron, or copperas, and that of acetite of iron.   The
first, or copperas, is commonly used for wool.  The
copperas is dissolved in water, and the cloth dipp-
ed into it.  It may be used also for cotton, but in
most cases acetite of iron  is preferred, which is
prepared by dissolving iron, or its oxide, in  vino-
gar, sour beer, or pyroligneous acid, and the longer
it is kept the better.
                   Tan, &c.
   Tan is very frequently employed as a mordant.
An infusion of nut-galls, or of sumach, or of any
other substance  containing tan, is made in water,
and the cloth is dipped in this infusion, and allowed
to remain till it  has absorbed a sufficient quantity.
Tan is often employed also, along with other mor-
dants, to produce a compound mordant.  Oil is also
used for the same purpose, in dyeing cotton and
linen.  The mordants with which tan is  -nost fre»- 
 82                             UNIVERSAL ]

 quently  combined,  are alumine,  and oxide  of
 iron.
   Besides these mordants, there are several other
 substances frequently used as auxiliaries, either to
 facilitate the combination of the mordant with the
 cloth or to alter the  shade of colour; the chief of
 these are, tartar, acetate of lead, common salt,  sal
 ammoniac, sulphate  of copper, &c.
   Mordants  not only render the dye permanent,
 but have also considerable  influence on the colour
 produced.  The same colouring matter produces
 very different dyes,  according as the  mordant is
 changed.  Suppose, for instance, that the colouring
 matter is cochineal;  if we use the aluminous mor-
 dant, the cloth will acquire a crimson colour; but
 the oxide of iron produces with it, a black.
   In dyeing, then, it is not only necessary to pro-
 cure a mordant which has a sufficiently strong affi-
 nity for the colouring matter  and the cloth, and a
 colouring matter which possesses the wished-for
 colour in perfection; but we must procure a mor-
 dant and a colouring matter of such a nature, that
 when combined together,  they shall  possess  the
 wished-for colour in perfection; and even a great
 variety of colours may be  produced with a single
 dye-stuff,  provided we change the mordant suffi-
 ciently.
 To determine  the effects of various salts or mor-
               dants on colours.
              T/ie dye of madder.
  For a madder red on woollens, the best quantity
 of madder is one half of the weight of the woollens
 that are to be dyed; the best proportion of salts to
 be used is five parts of alum and one of red tartar
 for sixteen parts of the stuff.
  A variation in the proportions of the salts, wholly
 alters the colour that the  madder naturally gives.
If the alum is lessened, and the tartar increased, the
 dye proves a red cinnamon. If the alum be entirely
 omitted, the red wholly disappears, and a durable
tawny cinnamon is produced.
  If woollens are boiled in  weak pearl-ash and wa-
ter, the greater part of the colour is destroyed.  A
 solution of soap discharges part of the colour, ami
leaves the remaining  more beautiful.
  Volatile alkalies heighten the red colour of the
madder, but they make  the dye fugitive.
              The dye of logwood.
   Volatile alkaline  salts  or acids incline this to
purple; the vegetable and  nitrous acids render it
pale; the vitriolic and marine acids deepen it.
                  Lime water.
  In dyeing browns or blacks, especially browns,
lime water is found to be a  good corrective, as also
 an alterative, when the goods are not come to  the
 shade required;  but  practice alone can  show  its
 utility; it answers for either woollens, silks, or cot-
 tons.
           To render colours holding.
  Browns and blues, or shades from them, require
 no preparation; but reds and yellowd, either of silk
 cotton, or woollen, require a preparation  to make
 them receive the dye, and hold it  fast when it has
 received  it.  Alum  and tartar,  boiled together,
 when cold, form a  mastic, within the pores of the
 substance, that serves to retain the dye, and reflect
 the colour in a manner transparently.
  Almost all browns are deemed fast and holding
 colours, without any preparation:  the  dyeing ma-
 terials containing in themselves a  sufficient degree
 of astringent  quality to  retain their own colours.
 Many reds are also equally holding, but none more
 so than those made with madder on woollens  pre-
 pared with alum and tartar.
  A very fast red is also made with Brazil wood,
 oy boiling the woollen in alum and tartar, and suf-
 fering the cloth to remain several  days  in a bag
RECEIPT BOOK.

 kept moist by the preparation liquor.   The cause
 of the solidity of the  colour from Brazil  wood
 dyed after this method, arises from the alum and
 tartar  masticating itself within the pores  of the
 wool in quite a solid state.
   There is not a drug used in the whole  art of
 dyeing, but may be  made  a  permanent dye, by
 finding out a salt, or solution of some metal, that,
 when once dissolved by acids, or by boiling water,
 will neither be affected  by the air, nor be dissolved
 by moisture.  Such are alum and tartar, the solu-
 tion of tin, &c.  But  these  salts and solutions do
 not answer  with  all ingredients that are used in
 dyeing.
           To purchase dyeing materials.
   The names of the principal dyeing materials are
 alum,  argol, or tartar,  green copperas, verdigris,
 blue vitriol, roche alum, American  or quercitron,
 and oak bark,  fenugreek, logwood,  old  and  young
 fustic, Brazil wood, braziletto, camwood, barwood,
 and other red  woods,  peach wood,  sumach,  galls,
 weld, madder of 3 or 4  sorts, safflower, savory
 green  wood,  annatto, turmeric,  archil, cudbear,
 cochineal,  lac  cake,  lac  dye,  and indigo.   The
 whole may be purchased of druggists and colour-
 men.
  To dye wool and woollen cloths ofa blue colour.
   Dissolve one part of indigo in four parts of con-
 centrated sulphuric acid; to the solution, add one
 part of dry carbonate of potass, and then dilute it
 with eight times its weight of water.   The cloth
 must be boiled for an hour in  a solution, contain-
 ing 5 parts of alum, and 3  of tartar, for every 32
 parts of cloth.  It is then to be thrown into a water-
 bath previously prepared, containing a greater or
 smaller proportion of diluted  sulphate  of indigo,
 according to the shade which the cloth is intended
 to receive.  In this bath  it must be boiled till it has
 acquired the wished-for colour.
   The only  colouring matters employed in dyeing
 blue, are woad and indigo.
   Indigo has a very strong  affinity  for wool, silk,
 cotton, and linen.  Every kind of cloth, therefore,
 may be dyed with it, without the assistance of any
 mordant whatever.  The colour thus induced is
 very permanent.   But indigo can only be applied .
 to cloth in a state of solution, and the only solvent
 known is sulphuric acid.  The sulphate of indigo
 is often used  to  dye wool  and silk  blue, and is
 known by the name of Saxon blue.
   It is not the only solution of that pigment em-
 ployed in dyeing.  By far the most common me-
 thod is, to deprive indigo of its blue colour, and
 reduce it to  green, and then to dissolve it in water
 by means of alkalies.  Two different methods are
 employed for this  purpose.  The first  is, to mix
 with indigo a solution of green oxide of iron, and
 different metallic sulphurets. If, therefore, indigo,
 lime, and green sulphate of iron, are mixed toge-
 ther in water,  the indigo  gradually loses its blue
 colour, becomes green, and is dissolved.  The se-
 cond method is, to mix  the indigo,  in water, with
 certain vegetable substances which readily undergo
 fermentation; the inuigo is dissolved by means of
 quick lime or alkali, which is added to the solution.
   The first of these methods is usually followed in
 dyeing cotton and linen; the second, in dyeing wool
 and silk.
   In the dyeing of wool, woad and  bran are com-
 monly  employed as vegetable  ferments, and nme
 asthe solvent of the green base of the indigo. Woad
 itself contains a colouring matter precisely similar
 to indigo;  and  by following the common process,
 indigo  may be extracted  from it.  In  the  usual
 state of woad, when purchased by the dyer, the in-
 digo, which it contains, is probably not far from
 the  state of green pollen.  Its quantity in woad if 
DYEING.
8.J
 but small, and it is mixed with a great proportion
 of other vegetable matter.
    When ♦he cloth is first taken out of the vat, it is
 of a green  colour; but it soon becomes blue.  It
 ought  to be carefully washed, to carry off the un-
 combined particles.  This solution of indigo is lia-
 ble to  two  inconveniences: first, it is apt  some-
 times to run too fast into the putrid fermentation;
 this may be known by the putrid vapours which it
 exhales, and by the disappearing of the  green co-
 lour.   In this state it  would soon  destroy the in-
 digo altogether.  The inconvenience is  remedied
 by adding more lime, which has the property  of
 moderating  the putrescent  tendency.   Secondly,
 sometimes the fermentation  goes on too languidly.
 This defect is remedied by adding more bran, or
 woad, in order to diminish the proportion of thick
 lime.
          To make chemic blue and green.
   Chemic for light blues and greens, on  silk, cot-
 ton, or  woollen, and for cleaning and whitening
 cottons, is made by the following process:—
   Take 1  lb. of the best oil  of vitriol, which pour
 upon 1 ounce of the best Spanish flora indigo, well
 pounded and sifted; add to  this, after  it has been
 well stirred, a small lump of common pearl-ash as
 big as a pea, or from that to the size of 2 peas; this
 will immediately raise  a great fermentation, and
 cause the indigo to dissolve in minuter  and finer
 particles than otherwise.   As soon as this fermen-
 tation ceases, put it  into a bottle tightly corked,
 and it may be used the next day.  Observe, if more
 than the quantity prescribed of pearl ash should be
 used, it will deaden and sully the colour.
   Chemic for green, as above for blue,  is made by
 only adding  one-fourth more of the oil of vitriol.
   If the chemic is to be used for woollen, East In-
 dia indigo  will answer the purpose even  better than
 Spanish indigo, and at one quarter of the price; but
 the oil  of vitriol is good for both.
      To make a solution of tin in aqua regia.      |
   Mix  together 8 ounces of filtered river water, I
 and 8 ounces of double aqua  fortis; add gradually
 half an ounce of sal  ammoniac dissolved  piece by
 piece, and 2 drachms of salt-petre.   Then take I
 ounce of refined block tin: put it into an iron pan,
 and set it over the fire; when melted, hold it 4 or
 5  feet over the vessel, and drop it into water, so as
 to let it fall in pieces.
   Next put a small piece of this granulated tin into
 the above aqua-regia, and when the last piece dis-
 appears, add more gradually till the whole is mix-
 ed; mind and keep it firmly corked.  When finished
 it will  produce a most excellent yellow, though
 should  it fail in thac respect, it will not be the
 worse for use; keep it cool, as heat will injure and
 even spoil it.
             To make muriate of tin.
   Take  8 ounces of muriatic  acid, and dissolve in
 it, by slow degrees, half an  ounce  of granulated
 tin; when this is done pour off the clear  liquid into
 a bottle and weaken it, if required, with  pure fil-
 tered river water.
 To determine the effect of various waters on differ-
                  ent colours.
   Snow water contains a little muriate of lime, and
 some slight traces of nitrate of lime; rain water has
 the same salts in a larger quantity, and also carbo-
 nic acid; soring water  most frequently  contains
 carbonate of lime, muriate of lime, muriate of soda,
or carbonate of soda. River water has the same sub-
 stances, but in less abundance. Well water contains
sulphate of lime or nitrate of pot-ash besides the
above-named salts. Should the water contain a salt,
or a mineral  acid, in the first instance, an acid will
be requisite to neutralize it, and in the second, an
  alkali.   Thus waters of any quality may be saturat-
  ed by their opposites, and rendered neutral.
               To discharge colours.
    The dyers generally put all coloured silks which
  are to be discharged, into a couper in which half a
 .pound or a pound of white soap has been dissolved.
  They are then  boiled off", and when  the  copper
  begins to be too full of colour, the silks are taken
  out and rinsed  in warm  water.  In the interim a
  fresh solution of soap is to be added to the copper,
  and then proceed as before till all the colour is dis-
  charged.  For those colours that are wanted to be
  effectually discharged,  such as greys,  cinnamons,
  &c. when soap does not  do, tartar must be used.
 For slate colours, greenish  drabs, olive drabs, &o.
 oil of vitriol in warm water must be used; if othei
 colours, roche alum must be boiled in the  copper,
 then cooled down and the silks entered and boiled
 off, recollecting to rinse them before they are again
 dyed.  A small quantity of muriatic  acid, diluted
 in warm water, must be used to discharge some
 fast colours;  the goods must be afterwards  well
 rinsed in warm and cold water to prevent any injury
 to the stalk.
 To discharge cinnamons, greys, &c. when dyed
                     too full.
   Take some tartar, pounded in a mortar, sift it
 into a bucket, then pour over it some boiling wa-
 ter.  The silks, &c. may then be run through the
 clearest of this liquor, which will discharge the co-
 lour; but if the dye  does not take on again evenly,
 more  tartar may be added,  and the goods  run
 through as before.
 To re-dye, or change the colours of garments,  &c.
   The change of colour depends upon the ingredi-
 en' s  with which the garments have  been dyed.
 Sometimes when these  have been well cleaned,
 more dyeing stuff must be added, which will afford
 the colour intended; and sometimes the colour al-
 ready on the cloth must be discharged and the ar-
 ticle re-dyed.
   Eveiy colour in nature will dye black, whether
 blue, yellow,  red or  brown,  and black will always
 dye black again.  All  colours will take the same
 colour again which they already possess; and blues
 can be made green or black; green may be made
 brown, and brown green, and every colour on re-
 dyeing will take a darker tint than at first.
   Yellows, browns,  and blues, are not easily  dis-
 charged;  maroons, reds of some kinds, olives,  Sec.
 may be discharged.
   for maroons, a  small quantity of roche alum
 may be boiled in a copper, and when it is dissolv-
 ed, put in the goods, keep them boiling, and pro-
 bably, in a few minutes,  eno tgh of it will be  dis-
 charged to take the colour intended.
   Olives, greys, &c. are discharged by putting in
 two or three table spoonsful, more  or less,  of oil
 of vitriol: then put in the garment, &c. and boil,
 and it will become white, If chemic green, either
 alum, pearl-ash, or  soap, will discharge it off to
 the yellow; this yellow  may mostly be boiled off
 with soap, if it has received  a preparation for tak-
 ing the chemic blue.  Muriatic acid used at a hand
 heat will  discharge most  colours.   A  black may
 be  dyed  maroon, claret, green, or a dark brown;
 and it often  happens that black is dyed  claret,
 green, or  dark brown; but green is the principal
 colour into which black is changed.
                 To alum silks.
  Silk should be*alumed cold, for when it is alum-
ed hot, it is deprived of a great part of its lustre.
The alum liquor should always be strong for silks,
as they take the dye more readily afterwards.
                To dye silk blue.
  Silk is dyed  light blue by a ferment of six parts 
84
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
of bran, six of  indigo, six of potass, and  one of
madder.  To dye it of a dark blue, it must previ-
ously receive what is called a ground-colour; a red
dye-stuff, called archil, is used for this purpose.
          To dye citton  and linen blue.
  Cotton  and linen are dyed blue by a solution of
one part of indigo, one part  of green sulphate of
iron, and  two parts of quick-lime.
                  Yellow dyes.
  The principal colouring matters for dyeing yel-
low, are weld, fustic, and quercitron  bark.  Yel-
low  colouring  matters  have too weak  an  affinity
for cloth,  to produce permanent colours without
me use of mordants.  Cloth,  therefore, before it
is dyed yellow, is always prepared by  soaking it
in alumine.   Oxide of tin is sometimes used when
very fine  yellows  are wanting.  Tan is often em-
ployed  as subsidiary to  alumine, and in order to
fix it more copiously on cotton and linen.   Tartar
is also used as an auxiliary, to brighten the  colour;
and  muriate  of soda, sulphate of lime, and even
sulphate  of iron, to render the shade deeper.
The yell >w  dye by means of fustic is more perma-
nent, but not so beautiful as that given by weld,
or quercitron.  As it is permanent, and  not much
injured by acids, it is often  used  in dyeing com-
pound  colours,  where a  yellow is required.  The
mordant is alumine.   When the mordant is oxide
of iron, fustic dyes a good permanent drab  colour.
Weld  and quercitron bark  yield nearly the same
kind of colour;  but the bark yields colouring mat-
ter in greater abundance  and is cheaper than weld.
The  method of using each of these  dye-stuffs is
nearly the same.
             To dye woollens yellow.
  Wool may be dyed yellow by the following pro-
cess; let  it  be  boiled for an hour, or more,  with
above one-sixth of its weight of alum, dissolved in
a sufficient quantity of water as a mordant.  It is
then  to be plunged, without being  rinsed,  into  a
bath  of warm water, containing as much  querci-
tron  bark  as equals the  weight of the  alum em-
ployed as a mordant.   The cloth is to be  turned
through the  boiling liquid,  till it  has acquired the
intended colour.   Then, a quantity of clean pow-
dered  chalk, equal  to  the  hundreth part of the
weight of the cloth, is  to be stirred in, and the
operation  of dyeing continued for eight or ten mi-
nutes longer.   By this method a  pretty  deep and
lively yellow may  be given.
  For very bright orange, or golden  yellow, it is
necessary  to use  the oxide of tin as a mordant.
For  producing  bright golden yellows, some alum
must be added along with  the tin.  To give the
yellow  a  delicate gi ;en shade,  tartar must be
added  in  different proportions, according to the
shade.
               To dye silks yellow.
  Silk may  be  dyed  of different shades  of yellow,
either by  weld  or quercitron bark, but the last is
the cheapest of the  two.  The proportion should
be from one to two parts of bark, to  twelve parts
of silk, according to the shade.   The  bark, tied
up in a bag, should be put into the dyeing vessel.
whilst the water which  it contains is  cold;  and
when it has acquired the heat rf about 10J degrees,
the silk, having been previously alumed, should be
dipped in, and continued, till it assumes the wish-
ed-for colour.   When the shade  is required to be
deep, a little chalk,  or pearl-ash, should be added
towards the end of the operation.
         To dye Unens and cottons yellow.
   The mordant should be acetate of alumine, pre-
pared by  dissolving one part of acetate of lead, and
three parts of alum, in a sufficient quantity of wa-
ter.   This s dution  should  be heat*' \ to the tem-
perature  of 100 degrees: the cloth should be soak-*
| ed in it for two hours, then  wrung out  and dried.
 The soaking may be repeated,  and the cloth again
 dried as  before.  It is  then  to  be bar ly wetted
i with lime-water, and afterwards dried.  The soak-
 ing in the acetate of alumine may be again repeat-
 ed; and if the  shade of yellow is required to be
 very bright and durable, the alternate wetting with
 lime-water and soaking in the mordant may bo re-
 peated three or four ' ;mes.
   The dyeing-bath is prepared by putting 12 or 18
 parts of quercitron bark (according to the depth of
 the shade required), tied up in a  bag, into  a suf-
 ficient quantity of  cold  water.  Into this bath the
 cloth is  to  be  put,  and turned  in it for an hour,
 wnile its temperature is gradually raised to about
 120 degrees.  It is then to be brought to a boiling
I heat, and the cloth allowed to remain  in it only for
 a few minutes.   If it is kept long  at a boiling heat,
 the yellow acquires a shade  of brown.
 To fix a fine mineral  yellow upon wool,' silk, cot-
                 ton, hemp, &c.
   M.x one pound of sulphur, two pounds of white
 oxide of arsenic, and five parts of pearl-ash; and
 melt  the whole in  a crucible,  at a heat a little
 sluTt of redness.   The result  is  a yellow mass,
 which is to be dissolved  in  hot water; and the li-
 quor filtrated, to separate it  from a sediment form-
 ed chiefly  of metallic arsenic, in  shining plates,
 and in a small part, of a chooolate-coioured mat-
 ter, which appears to be a sub-sulphuret of arsenic,
 Dilute the filtrated liquor, then add weak sulphu-
 ric acid,  which produces a flocculent precipitate,
 ofa most brilliant yellow colour.  This precipitate,
 washed  upon a Cloth filter,  dissolves  with the ut-
 most ease in liquid ammonia,  giving a yellow so-
 lution,  which  colour is  to  he removed  by an ex-
 cess of the same alkali.
                To prepare realgar.
   The most brilliant  and permanent yellow that
 can be imagined, is the  sidphuret  of arsenic,  or
 realgar, into which, mjre or less diluted, accord-
 ing to the  depth of  tint required, the wool, silk,
 cotton,  or linen,  is  to  be  dipped.  All metallic
 utensils  must be  carefully avoided.  When the
 stuffs come out of this bath they are colourless,
 but they  insensibly take on  a yellow hue as the
 ammonia evaporates.  They are to be exposed as
 equally as possible to a current of open air; anil
 when the colour is well come out,  and  no  longer
 heightens, they are to be washed  and dried.
    Wool should be fulled in the ammoniacal solu-
 tion, and should remain in it  till it is thoroughly
 soaked; then, very slightly and uniformly pressed,
 or else merely set to drain of itself.   Silk, cotton,
 hemp, and flax,  are only to be dipped in tile dye-
 ing liquid,  which  they  easily take.  They must
I then be well pressed.
    The sulphuret of arsenic will give every ima-
 ginable tint to stuffs,  from the  deep golden yellow
 to the lightest straw-colour,  which  has the inva-
 riable advantage of never fading, of lasting even
 longer than the stuffs themselves,  and of resisting
 all re-agents,  except alkalies.   Hence  it is pecu-
 liarly fitted for costly tapestry, velvets, and other
, articles of furniture which are not in danger of be-
 ing washed with alkalies or  soap, and to which the
 durability of colour is a most important object. It
 may also be used with advantage in paper-staining.
                    Red dyes.
    The colouring matters employed for dyeing red,
 are archil, madder, carthamus, kermes,  cochineal,
 and Brazil-wood.
      'to dye woollens red, crimson, and scarlet.
    Coarse woollen stuffs are dyed red with madder
  or archil:  but fine cloth is almost exclusively dyed
  with cochineal,  though the  colour which it re-
|  ceives from kermes is much more durable.  Bra- 
DYEING.
85
*il wood is scarcely used, except as an auxiliary,
because the colour, which it imparts to wool, is not
permanent.
   Wood is died crimson, by first impregnating  it
with alumine, by means of an alum bath, and then
boiling it  in  a decoction of  cochineal, till it has
acquired the wished-for colour. The crimson will be
finer, if th-3 tin-mordant  is substituted for alum;
indeed, it is usual wtth dyers, to add a little nitro-
muriate of tin, when they want fine crimsons. The
addition of archil and potass to the cochineal, both
renders the  crimson darker,  and gives it more
bloom; but the bloom very  soon vanishes.   For
paler crimsons, one-half of the  cochineal is with-
drawn, and madder substituted in its place.
   Wool may be dyed scarlet, by first  boiling it  in
a solution of murio-sulphate of tin, then dyeing  it
pale yellow with quercitron bark, and afterwards
crimson with cochineal; for scarlet is a compound
colour, consisting of crimson mixed  with a little
vellow.
     To carry the colour into the body of cloth.
   Make the moistened cloth pass through between
rollers placed within at the bottom of the dye-vat;
so that the web, passing from one windlass through
the dye-vat, and being strongly compressed by the
rollers in  its  passage to another windlass, all the
remaining water is driven out, and is  re-piaced by
the colouring liquid, so as to receive colour  into
its very centre.  The winding should be continued
backwards and forwards from one windlass to the
other, and  through the rolling-press, till the dye is
of sufficient intensity.
          To dye silks red, crimson, £jc.
   Silk is usually dyed red with cochineal,  or  car-
thamus, and sometimes with Brazil-wood.  Kermes
does not answer for silk;  madder is scarcely ever
used for that purpose, because it noes not  yield a
colour bright enough.   Archil is en-ployed to give
silk a jloom; but it is scarcely ever used by itself,
unless when the colour wanted is lilac.
   Silk may be dyed erimson, by steeping it in a
solution of al'zm, and then dyeing it in the usual way
in a cochineal bath.
   The colours known by the names of poppy, cher-
ry, rose, and flesh colour, are given to silk by means
of carthamus.  The process consists merely in keep-
ing the silk as long as it extracts any colour, in an
alkaline solution of carthamus, into which as much
lemon-juice,  as  gives it a fine cherry-red colour,
has been poured.
   Silk cannot be dyed a full  scarlet;  but  a colour
approaching  to scarlet may be given to it, by first
impregnating the stuff with murio-sulphate cf tin,
and afterwards dyeing it  in a bath, composed of
four parts of cochineal, and four parts rf quercitron
bark.  To give the colour more boJy, both the
mordant and the dye may be repeated.
   A colour, approaching to scarlet, may be given to
silk, by first  dyeing it  in crimson, then dyeing it
with carthamus; and lastly, yellow, without heat.
    To dye linens and cottons red, scarlet, &c.
   Cotton and linen are dyed red with madder. The
process was borrowed from the east; hence the co-
lour  is often called Adrianople, or  Turkey-red.
The cloth  is  first impregnated with oil, then with
galls,  and  lastly with alum.  It  is then boiled for
an hour in a  decoction  of madder, which is com-
monly'mixed with a quantity of blood.  After the
cloth is dyed, it is plunged into a soda ley, in or-
der to brighten the colour. The red,  given by this
process,  is very  permanent;  and when  properly
conducted, it is exceedingly beautiful.  The whole
difficulty  consists in the application of the mor-
dant, which  is by far  the most complicated  em-
ployed in the whole art of dyeing.
   Cotton may be dyed scarlet, by means of murio-
  sulphate  of tin, cochineal, and quercitron bark,
  used as for silk, but the colour is too fading to be
  of any value.
                   Black dyes.
   The substances employed to give a black colour
  to cloth,  are red oxide  of iron and tan.  These
  two substances have a strong affinity for ^ach other,
  and when combined, assume  a deep black colour,
  not liable to be  destroyed by the action  of air or
  light.
   Logwood is usually employed as an auxiliary,
  because it communicates lustre, and  adds conside-
  rably to the fulness of the black.  It is  the wood
  ofa tree which is a native of several  of the West-
  India islands, and of that part of Mexico which
I  surrounds the bay of Honduras.  It  yields its co-
!  louring matter to water.   The decoction is at first
I  a fine red, bordering on violet: but if left to itself,
  it graduahy assumes a black colour.  Acids give it
j  a deep red colour;  alkpiies, a deep  violet, inclin-
  ing to brown; sulphate of iron renders it  as black
  as ink, and occasions a precipitate of the same co-
  lour.
   Cloth, before it receives a black colour, is usu-
  ally dyed blue: this renders the colour much fuller
  and finer  than it would otherwise be.  If th > cloth
  is coarse, the blue  dye may  be too  expensive; in
  that case, a brown  colour is  given  by means of
  walnut-peels.
               To dye woollens black.
   Wool is dyed black by the following process.  It
  Is boi'ed for two hours iu a decoction of nut-galls,
  and aflerwa-dskept, for tvo hours more, in a bath,
  composed of logwood and sulphate of iron;  kept,
  during the whole time, at a scalding heat, but not
  boiling.   During the  operation,  it  must be  fre-
  quently exposed tf- the air; because  the green ox-
  ide of iron,of which the sulphate is composed, must
  be converted into red oxide by absorbing oxygen,
  before the cloth can acquire a proper colour.  The
  common proportions are five parts of galls, five of
  sulphate of iron, and  thirty of logwood, for every
  hundred  of cloth.   A  little acetate of copper
  is commonly added to the sulphate  of  iron, be-
  cause it is thought to improve the colour.
                 To dye silks black.
   Silk is  dyed nearly in the same manner.  It is
  capable of combining with a great deal of tan; the
  quantity given is varied at the pleasure of the artist,
  by allowing the  silk to remain a longer or shorter
  time in the decoction.
          To dye cottons and linens black.
   The cloth, previously dyed blue, is steeped for
  24 hours  in a decoction of nut-galls.  A bath  is
  prepared  containing  acetate of iron, formed  by
  saturating acetous acid with brown oxide of iron:
  into this bath the cloth is put in small quantities at
  a time, wrought with the hand for a  quarter of an
  hour; then wrung out, and aired again; wrought in
  a fresh quantity of the bath, and afterwards aired.
  These alternate processes are repeated till the co-
  lour wanted is given:  a decoction of alder bark is
  usually mixed with the liquor containing  the nut-
  galls.
             To  dye wool, &c. brown.
   Brown, or fawn colour, though in foct a com-
  pound, is usually ranked among the simple colours,
  btcause it is applied to cloth  by a single process.
  Various substances are used for brown dy s.
   Walnut-peels, or the green  covering of the wal-
  nut, when first separated, are white internally, but
  soon assume a brown, or even a black colour, on
  exposure to the air.  They readily yield  their co-
  louring matter to water.   They are usually kept in
  large casks, covered with water, for  aDOve a year
  before they are used. Todye wool brown withthem,
  nothing more is necessary, than to steep the cloth 
86
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 in a decoction of them  till it has acquired the
 wished-for colour.  The depth of the shade is pro-
 portional to the strength of the decoction.
   The root of the walnut-tree  contains the same
 colouring matter, but in  smaller quantity.  The
 bark of the Hrch also, and many other trees, may
 be used for the same purpose.
            To dye compound colours.
   Compound colours are produced  by mixing to-
  ether two simple ones; or which is the same thing
  y dyeing cloth first of the simple colour, and then
 by another.  These colours vary to  infinity, ac- j
 cording to the proportions of the ingredients em-
 ployed.  From blue, red, and yellow, red olives
 and greenish greys are made,
   From  blue,  red, and brown, olives are made
 from the lightest to the darkest shades;  and  by
 giving a greater shade of red, the slated and laven-
 der greys are made.
   From blue,  red, and black, greys of all shades
 are  made, such as sage,  pigeon, slate, and lead
 greys.  The king's or prince's colour is duller than
 usual; this mixture produces a variety of hues, or
 colours almost to infinity.
   From  yellow, blue,  and brown,  are made the
 goose dung and olives of all kinds.
   From  brown, blue,  and  black,  are produced
 brown olives, and their shades.
   From the red,  yellow, and brown,  are derived
 the orange, gold colour, feuille-mort, or faded leaf,
 dead carnations, cinnamon, fawn, and tobacco, by
 using two or three of the colours as required.
   From yellow, red, and  black, browns of every
 shade are made.
   From blue and yellow, greens of all shades.
   From red and blue, purples of  all kinds are
 formed.
        To dye different shades of green.
   Green  is distinguished by dyers into a variety of
 shades, according to the depth, or the  prevalence
 of either of the component parts.  Thus, we have
 sea-green, grass-green, pea-green, &c.
  Wool,  silk,  and linen, are usually dyed green,
 by giving them first a blue colour, and  afterwards
 dyeing them yellow; when the yellow is first given,
 several inconveniences follow: the yellow partly
 separates again in the blue vat, and communicates
a green colour to  it; thus rendering it  useless for
 every other purpose except dyeing green.   Any of
the usual  processes for dyeing blue and yellow,
may be followed,  taking  care  to proportion the
 depth of the shades to that of the green required.
  When sulphate of indigo is employed, it is usual
to mix all the ingredients together, and to dye the
 cloth at once; this produces what is known by the
 name of Saxon, or English green.
        To dye violet,  purple, and lilac.
  Wool is generally first dyed blue,  and after-
 wards scarlet, in the usual manner.  By means of
 cochineal mixed with sulphate of indigo, the  pro-
 cess may be performed at once.   Silk is first dyed
 crimson, by means of cochiueal, and then  dipped
 into the indigo vat. Cotton and linen are first dyed
 blue, and  then dipped in a decoction of logwood;
 but a more permanent colour is given by means of
 oxide of iron.
      To dye olive, orange, and cinnamon.
  When blue is combined  with red and yellow on
 cloth, de resulting colour is olive.  Wool may be
 dyed orange, by first dyeing it scarlet, and  then
 yellow.   When it is dyed first  with madder, the
 result is a cinnamon colour.
   Silk is dyed orange  by  means of carthamus; a
 cinnamon colour  by logwood,  Brazil-wood, and
 fustic, mixed together.
   Cotton and linen receive a cinnamon colour by
 means of  weld and madder; and an olive-colour
 by being passed through a blue,yellow, and then a
 madder bath.
       To dye grey, drab, and dark brown.
   If cloth is previously combined with brown oxide
 of iron, and afterwards dyed yellow with querci-
 tron bark, the result will be a drab  of different
 shades, acco-dingto the proportion of mordant em-
 ployed.  When the proportion is small, the colour
 inclines to olive, or yellow; on the contraiy, the
 drab may be deepened, or saddened, as the dyers
 term it, by mixing a little sumach with the bark.
 To dye a black upon cotton, linen,  and mixed
                    goods.
   Take tar, iron liquor of the very best  quality;
 add  to each gallon thereof,  three quarters  of a
 pound of fine flour, and boil it to  the  consistency
 of a thin paste.  Put the liquor or paste abovemen-
 tioned into a tub belonging to a machine  used in
 the process.  The goods intended to be dyed are
 wound upon a  roller,  and  passed through the
 liquor or paste,  betwixt the  two  rollers;  thereby
 completely staining or dyeing the whole mass or
 body of the cloth.  Pass them into a very hot stove
 or drying-house till dry, then take cow's dung, put
 it into a large copper of water about scalding hot,
 and mix it well together, through  which pass the
 piece of cloth until it be thoroughly softened. Wash
 the goods, so dunged,  extremely well in water.
 Take a quantity of madder, or logwood, or su-
 mach, or all of them mixed together, as the strength
 of the cloth and nature  of the colour may require,
 and put them into a copper, or tub of hot water
 then enter the goods before mentioned in  this li-
 quor, and keep rinsing or  moving them therein,
 until they are brought up to the strength of colour
 required.   Have the  goods again well  washed and
 dried.   For dyeing black, it will be proper to pass
 the goods a second time through the above opera-
 tions; adding more or less of the dyeing-woods as
 before.  If after the above operations the Suade of
 colour is too full, or too mui-h upon the red hue,
 it will be necessary to give  them a little sumach,
 and then run them through a liquor made from iron
 and owler, or alder bark.
                Another method.
   Take common iron liquor, and add 3-4ths of a
 pound of fine flour, and by boiling bring it to the
 consistency ofa thin paste;  or instead of flour, add
 glue or linseed, or gum, or all of them mixed to-
 gether, till it  is brought to a proper thickness.
 Then pass the goods through the  machine,  and
 follow the before mentioned operations.
 To dye olives,  bottle greens, purples, browns,  cin-
              namons, or snuffs.
   Take common iron liquor, or common iron li-
 quor with alum dissolved therein, in quantity of
 each according to the shade of colour wanted, made
 into a paste or liquid, by adding flour,  gum, glue,
 linseed, or one or more of them as before.   Then
 put the liquor or paste above mentioned into a tub
 belonging to the machine, and pass the goods so
 intended to be dyed, through the machine.   Take
 them from the machine, and hang them up in a
very cool room, where they are to remain till tho-
roughly dry.  Take cow's dung, put it into a large
copper of hot  water, and mix it  well together;
through which pass the cloth or goods until tho-
roughly softened, the quantity of dung and time re-
quired, being proportioned as before.
  The goods after this process being well washed,
take a quantity of liquor made  from madder, log-
 wood, sumach, fustic,  Brazil, woad,   quercitron
bark, peach wood, or other woods, to produce the
colour wanted, or more  of them; and if necessary
 dilute this liquor with water, according to the shade
 or fulness of colour wanted to be dyed.  Then work
the goods through this  liquor: after  which pass 
DYEING.
87
tnem through cold or warm water, according to the
colour, the proper application of which is well known
to dyers, adding a little alum, copperas, or Roman
vitriol, or two  or more of them, first dissolved in
water.  Then wash them off in warm water, and
dry them.   But if the colour is not sufficiently full,
repeat the same operations till it is brought to the
shade required.
      To dye crimson, red, orange, or yellow.
  Take red liquor, such as is generally made from
alum, and dilute  it with  water according to the
strength or shade of colour wanted to dye, bring-
ing it to the consistency ofa paste or liquid, as be-
fore described.  Then pass the  cloth through the
machine;  which being dried in  a  cool room, pass
it through the operations  of dunging and  washing
as before.   Take a quantity of liquor, made  from
cochineal, madder, peach-wood, Brazil, logwood,
woad, fustic, sumach, or any two or more of them
proportioned  in  strength to the shade or colour
wanted to dye, and work the goods through this li-
quor till they are brought to the shade of colour
required; after which wash them in cold or warm
water, and dry them.
To dye cotton, wool, and silk,  with Prussian  blue.
  Immerse  the cotton into a large tub of water
slightly acidulated and charged  with prussiate of
potass. These sorts of stuffs dyed in Prussian blue,
and then in  olive transformed  into green,  are par-
ticularly  sought after in trade.   By processes ana-
logous to those employed  for cotton stuffs, the in-
ventor has obtained the same shades and  colours,
on samples of silk; and for many years, he has even
succeeded in fixing Prussian blue on wool, and in
producing on cloth the  same shades as on cotton
and silk.
          Dyeing with Prussian blue.
  By the following process, a brilliant and perma-
nent colour, called  Raymond  blue, from  its  pro-
poser Mr Raymond, Professor  of Chemistry at
Lyons, may be produced; a colour more bright than
and  as deep as that obtained from  indigo,  fur-
nishing likewise a sky-blue,  not attainable from
that substance.
  The silk, after its usual boiling with soap,  is to
be cleansed  in a large quantity of water; it is then
to be immersed, in a solution of the per-sulphate of
iron (copperas of a dark green), the oxide of which
combines with the silk—the proper quantity of fer-
ruginous matter the silk has absorbed is indicated
by the greater or less intensity of the yellow colour
it presents.   It is then to  be rinsed with great care
to remove all the free acid, and plunged in a bath
of prussiate of potash acidulated  by sulphuric  acid.
The  dyeing is effected in  a few- minutes.   When
this is done it must be rinsed again in clear water,
and brightened with purified urine largely diluted
with  water, into which ^occasionally thrown  a lit-
tle acetic acid.
Chevreul's  mode of graduating shades of colour
              from Prussian  blue.
  Impregnate each parcel of silk to be dyed  with
a different proportion of the oxide of iron by im-
mersing it in a solution, the strength of which has
been  regulated accordingly.  For the deeper tones
of colour employ the acetate, and for the others the
muriate or sulphate.  After having properly rinsed
(in  separate water) each parcel,  it is  to be dipp-
ed into distinct baths of the prussiate of potash, the
quantity of which has been made to correspond with
the quantity of oxide of iron previously united to it.
With these  precautions all the desired shades may-
be  obtained.  Those which are light and have a
greenish cast should be well washed in river water,
which will soon produce the blue in its purity.—If
this does not happen a very weak  solution of mu-
riatic acid will produce the effect to a certainty.
  To precipitate acetates  of lead and copper, on
              wool, silk, and cotton.
   Soak the stuff which is required to be dyed, in a
  solution of acetate, or rather sub-acetate of 1 sad,
  wring it when it comes out of the bath,  dryiug it
  in the shade, afterwards  wash it,  and again im-
  merse it in water charged with sulphuretted hydro-
  gen gas.   By this process are obtained,  in  a few
  minutes,  rich and  well-laid shades,  which vary
  from  the clear vigone colour to  the deep brown,
  accordingtothe force of the mordant and the num-
  ber of the immersions of the stuffs in the two bath-
  ing vessels.   From the order of afhnities, it  is the
  wool which takes colour  the  best, afterwards the
  silk, then the cotton, and lastly the thread, which
  appears little apt to combine with the  mordant.
   The different colours above indicated, resist the
  air well, likewise feeble acids, alkalies, and boil-
  ing soap,  which modify their shades in an imper-
  ceptible manner, and these shades are so striking,
  that it will appear difficult to  obtain them in auy
  other manner. ■
   This new kind of dye is very economical.  The
  sulphuretted hydrogen gas is obtained from a mix-
  ture of two parts of iron filings,  and one  of  orim-
  stone melted in a pot; this brimstone  is bruised,
  introduced into a matrass, and the gas is  removed
  by sulphuric acid extended in water to a mild heat.
  The gas  absorbs abundantly in cold water.
             To dye cotton cloth black.
   Take a quantity of Molacca nuts, which in Ben-
  gal are sold at 2*. per cwt., and boil  them in wa-
  ter, in close  earthen vessels, with the leaves  of the
  tree.  During the  boiling,  a whitish substance,
  formed from the mucilage and oil of the nuts, will
  rise to the surface;  this must be taken  off and pre-
  served.    The cloth intended to be black  nn st be
  printed with this scum, and then dyed, after which
 let  it be passed through lime water, when the
 printed figures will be changed to a full and per-
  manent black.
       To dye wool a permanent blue colour.
   Take 4 ounces of the best indigo, reduce it to a
  very fine powder, and add 12 pounds  of  wool, in
  the grease;  put  the whole into a copper  large
  enough  to contain  all the wool  to be dyed.  As
  soon  as  the requisite  colour is obtained, let the
  wool  be well washed and dried.   The liquor re-
  maining  may  be again used,  to  produce lighter
  blues. The colour will  be  as beautiful and per
  manent as the finest blue, produced by woad, and
  the wool, by this method, will lose less in weight
  than if it had been previously scoured.
  To produce the Swiss deep  and pale red topical
                    mordants.
   When the cotton cloth has been freed by  steep-
  ing and boiling in soap and water, from the paste
  used by the  weaver, and any  other impurities it
  may have acquired, immerse it thoroughly, or, as
  it is called, tramp or pad it in a solution of any al-
  kali, and oil or grease, forming an imperfect soap,
  or boil it in any of the perfect soaps dissolved in wa-
  ter, or in a solution of soda ami gallipoli oil,  in the
  proportion of  1 gallon of  oil to 20 gallons of soda
  lees, at the strength of four  degrees  and a half;
  then dry  the cloth in the stove, and repeat the pro-
  cess several  times, which may be varied  at  plea-
  sure,  according to the lustre and durability of the
  colour wanted,  stove-drying  the  cloth  between
 every immersion.   To the above solutions add a
  little sheep's dung,  for the first three immersions;
 these  are called the dung  liquors; after the  cloth
 has received the dung liquors,  it is steeped for 12
 hours in a quantity  of water,  110 degrees of  Fah-
 renheit; this is called the green steep.   The cloth
 being again stove-dried, is immersed as above in a
: solution of alkali and oil, or grease,  or boiled in 
88
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 perfect soap  dissolved,  but without the sheep's
 dung; or oftener,  according to the brilliancy of
 colours wanted, stove-drying, as before, between
 every immersion;  these  are called the white li-
 quors.  Steep the cloth for 12 hours at  125" Fah-
 renheit, which firms what is called  the white
 steep.  The cloth  being  now thoroughly washed
 in cold water, and dried, is ready to receive, first,
 the pink mordant, which is composed as  follows:—
 take equal quantities, by measurement, of a decoc-
 tion of galls at the  strength of four to six, and  a
 solut':on of alum at one half degree, the alum being
 previously saturated with whitening, or any other
 alkali, in the  proportion of  1  ounce to the pound
 weight of alum; mix them together, and raise the
 temperature to  140 degrees  of Fahrenheit, or as
 hot as can be handled. By immersion, as formerly
 mentioned, in this mixture, the cloth, when dyed
 and cleared, exhibits a beautiful pink, equal, if not
 superior, to that produced by cochineal.
  To dye jilks and satins brown in the small way.
  Fill the copper with river water, when it gently
 boils, put in a quarter of a pound of chipped fustic,
 two ounces of madder, one ounce of sumach, and
 half an ounce of cam-wood;  but if not required to
 be so red, the  cam-wood may be omitted.   These
 should boil, at  least, from half an hour  to two
 hours, that the ingredients may be  well  incorpo-
 rated.   The copper must then be cooled down by
 pouring in  cold water: the goods may then  be put
 in, and  simmered gently from  half an hour to an
 hour,  if this  colour should  appear to want dark-
 ening, or saddening, it may be done by taking out
 the goods,  and  adding a small quantity of old
 black liquor; a small piece of green copperas may
 be useii. rinse in two or three waters, and hang up
to dry.
        To dye silks of fawn colour drabs.
  Boil one ounce of fustic, half an ounce of alder
 bark, and two  drachms of archil.   From one to
 four drachms of the best crop madder must be ad-
ded to a very small quantity of old black liquor,
 if it be required darker.
           To due a silk shawl scarlet.
  First dissolve two ounces of white soap in boil-
ing water, handle the shawl through this liquor,
now and then rubbing such places with the hands
as may appear dirty, till  it is as clean as this  wa-
ter will make it. A second, or even a third liquor
may be used, if required: the shawl must be rinsed
out in warm water.
  Then take half announce of the best Spanish an-
natto, and dissolve it in hot water; pour this solu-
tion  into a pan of  warm water, and handle  the
 shawl through  this for a quarter of an hour; then
take it  out  and rinse it  in clean water.  In the
 meanwhile  dissolve  a piece of alum of the size of
 a horse bean in warm water, and let the shawl re-
 main :n this hslf an  hour; take it out and rinse it
 in clear water.  Then boil a quarter of  an  ounce
 of the best cochineal for twenty minutes, dip it out
 of the copper into a  pan, and let the shawl remain
 in this from twenty minutes to half an hour, which
 will make it a  full blood red.   Then take out the
 shawl, and  add to  tt.3  liquor in the pan a quart
 more of that out of the copper, if there is as much
 remaining,  and about halt  a small wine-glassful of
 the solution of tin: when cold, rinse it slightly out
 in spring water.
          To dye a silk shawl crimson.
  Take about a table spoonful of cud-bear,  put it
 into a small pan,  po-\r boiling water upon it,  stir
 and let it stand a few minutes, then put in the silk,
 and turn it over a short time, and when the colour
 is full enough, take it out: but if it should require
 more violet or crimson, add a spoonlul  or two of
 purple archil to some warm water, and dry it within
  doors.  To finish  it,  it must be mangled or ca-
  lendered, and may  be pressed, if such a conveni-
  ence is at hand.
                 To dye silk lilac.
    For every pound of silk, take one pound and a
  half of archil, mix it well with the liquor; make it
  boil a quarter of an hour,  dip the silk quickly,
  then let it cool, and wash it in river water, and a
  fine violet, or lilac, more or less full, will  be ob-
  tained.
  To dye thick silks, satins, silk stockings, &c. of a
                  flesh colour.
    Wash the stockings  clean in soap and water,
  then rinse them in  hot water; if they should not
  then appear perfectly clear,  cut half an ounce of
  white soap into thin slices, and put  it into a sauce-
  pan half full of boiling water; when this  soap is
  dissolved, cool the water in the pan, then  put in
  the  stockings,  and simmer  for twenty  minutes;
  take them out,  and  rinse in hot water; in the in-
  terim pour three table  spoonsful of purple archil
  into a wash-hand  basin half full of hot water;  put
'  the stockings in this  dye water, and when of the
  shade called half violet  or lilac, take them from
  the dye water, and slightly  rinse them in cold ;
  when dry hang them up in«.  close room  in which
  sulphur is burnt;  when  they  are evenly  bleached
  to the shade required  of flesh colour, take thein
  from the sulphuring-room,  and finish them by
  rubbing the right side witn a clean flannel.  Some
  persons calender them afterwards. Satins and silks
  are done the same way.
            To dye silk stockings black.
   These are dyed like other silks,  excepting that
  they must be steeped a day or two in black liquor,
  before they are put  into the black silk  dye.  At
  first they will look like an iron grey; but, to finish
  and black them, they must be put on wooden legs,
  laid on a table, and rubbed with the oily rubber,
  or flannel, upon which is oil of olives, and then the
  more they  are rubbed  the better.   Each pair of
I  stockings will require half a table spoonful  of  oil,
 at least, and halt an hour's rubbing,  to finish them
I  well.   Sweet oil is  the best in this  process, as it
 leaves no disagreeable smell.
       To dye straw and chip  bonnets black.
   Chip hats being  composed of the shavings of
 wood,  are stained black in various  ways.   First,
 by  being  boiled  in strong logwood  liquor three
 or four hours; they  must be  often taken   out
 to  cool in  the air, and now and  then a small
 quantity of green copperas must  be  added  to  the
 liquor, and this continued for  several hours.  The
 saucepan or kettle  that they are dyed in may re-
 main  with the bonnets  in it all night;  the next
 morning they must be taken out and  dried in  the
 air,  and brushed with  a soft brush.  Lastly, a
 sponge is dipped  in oil, and  squeezed almost to
 dryness; with this the bonnets are rubbed all over,
 both inside and out, and then sent to the blockers
 to be blocked.   Others boil them in logwood; and
 instead of green copperas, use steel filings steeped
 in vinegar;  after which they are finished as  above.
           To dye straw bonnets brown.
   Take a sufficient quantity of Brazil wood,  su-
 mach, bark, madder, and  copperas,  and sadden,
 according to the shade required.
  To remove the stain of tight colours from the hands.
   Wash the hands  in soap and water,  in which
 some pearl-ash is dissolved.
             To dye black cloth green.
   Clean the cloth well with bullock's gall and wa-
 ter, and rinse in warm water;  then make a copper
 full of river  water, boiling hot, and take from one
 pound to one pound and a half of furtic;  put it in,
 and boil it  twenty minutes, to which add a lump
 of alum of the size of a walnut; when this is dis- 
DYEING.
89
"solved in the copper, put in the coat, and boil it
twenty minutes; then take it out, and add a small
wine glass, three parts full,  of  chemic blue, and
boil again from half an hour to an hour, and  the
cloth will be  a beautiful dark green; then wash out
and dry.
                Calico printing.
  This art consists in dyeing cloth with certain co-
lours and figures upon a ground of a different hue;
the colours,  when they will not take hold of the
cloth readily, being  fixed  to them  by  means of
mordants, as  a preparation of alum,  made by dis-
solving 3 lbs. of alum and 1 lb. of acetate of lead in
8 lbs.  of warm water.   There are  added at the
same time, 2 ounces  of potash,  and  2  ounces of
chalk.
  Acetate of iron, also, is a mordant in frequent
use in the printing of calicoes; but the simple mix-
ture of alum  and acetate of lead is found to answer
best as a mordant.
             To apply the mordants.
  The mordants are  applied to the  cloth, either
with a pencil, or by means of blocks, on wnich the
pattern,  according  tr which the cotton is to be
printed,  is cut.  As they are applied  only to par-
ticular parts of the cloth, care must be taken that
none of them spread to the part of the cloth which
is to be left white, and that they do not  interfere
with each  other  when  several are applied; it is
necessary, therefore,  that the mordants should be
of such a degree of consistence, that  they will not
spread beyond those parts of the cloth  on which
they are  applied.  This  is done by thickening
them with flour or starch,  when they are to be ap-
plied by the block,  and with  gum  arabic when
they are to be put on with the pencil.  The thick-
ening should  never be greater than is sufficien. to
prevent the spreading of the mordants;  when car-
ried too far, the cotton is apt not to be sufficiently
saturated witn the mordants, and of course the dye
takes but imperfectly.
  In order that the parts of the cloth impregnated
with mordants may be distinguished  by  their co-
lour, it is usual to tinge the  mordants with some
colouring matter. The printers commonly use the
decoction of  Brazil wood  for this purpose.
  Sometimes, the  two mordants are mixed to-
gether in different proportions; and sometimes one
or both is mixed with an infusion of sumach, or of
nut-galls.  By these  contrivances a great variety
of colours are produced by the same dye-stuff.
             Process of dyeing, &c.
  After the mordants have been applied, the cloth
must be completely  dried.  It  is proper for this
purpose  to employ heat, which will contribute to-
wards the separation  of the acetous acid from its
base, and towards its evaporation; by which means
the mordant will combine in a greater proportion,
and more intimately with the cloth.
  When the cloth is sufficiently  dried,  it is to be
washed with warm water and cow-dur.g: till  the
flower or gum employed to thicken the  mordants,
and all those parts of the  mordants which are un-
combined  with the  cloth, are removed.  After
this, the cloth is to be thoroughly rinsed in  clean
water.
                   Dye-stuffs.
  Almost the only dye-stuft's employed by calico-
printers are  indigo, madder, and quercitron  bark,
or  weld; but this last substance is little used,  ex-
cept for delicate greenish yellows.   The querci-
tron bark gives colours equally good; and is much
cheaper  and more convenient,  not  requiring  so
great a heat to fix it.   Indigo, not requiring any
mordant, is commonly applied at once,  either  by
a block or by a pencil.  It is prepared  by boiling
together indigo and potash,  made caustic by quick
       M
lime  and orpiment;  the solution  is  afterwards
thickened with gum.  It must be carefully seclu-
ded from the air, otherwise the indigo would soon
be regenerated, which would  render the solution
useless.  Dr Bancroft has proposed to substitute
coarse brown sugar for oqiiment: it is  equally ef-
ficacious in decomposing the indigo, and render-
ing it soluble; while it likewise  serves all the
purposes of gum.   Some calicoes are only printed
of one colour, others  have  two,  and others three
or more,  even to the  number  of  eight, ten, or
twelve.  The smaller the number of colours, the
fewer in general,  are the processes.
New process to separate the red colouring principle
                  of madder.
  For this purpose three tubs are necessary, say,
A, B, C.  The first, or A, sufficient  for 55 pounds
of madder, is to be two feet eight inches deep, and
two feet six  in diameter.  The  second, or B, is five
feet and a half high  and three  feet in diameter.
This tub is to be furnished with  three  cocks, the
first   placed  at two,  the second  at three,  and
the third at four feet above  its bottom.  A  serves
as a fermenting tub; B,  a washing vessel; and C,
as a deposit,  'l hese tubs are placed near to each
other, in the summer, in the  open air,  under a
shed;  in the winter, in a cellar kept  at from 66° to
70' Fahrenheit.   To commence  the process,  put
from jO to 55 pounds  of ground  madder into  A,
and add water, stirring  the mixture continually,
until the madder, when  at rest, is covered with an
inch and a half of water.  In 36 or 48 hours (be-
ing at rest,) fermentation takes place and raises a
crust  of madder to the surface.   The mass is now
to be  transferred to the  second tub or B,  wh'.ch i»
then to be filled with water, where it is to repose
for two hours.  The uppermost cock is  then open-
ed, next the under one, and lastly the third.  The
liquor collected from the secoi.d and third cocks
is carried to the tub C, where  the precipitation of
the madder  that  escaped from  B,  is oomph ted.
You may make repeated washings of the madder
in B,  until the water ceases to be coloured.   Care
should be taken in summer, to prevent the madder
from  fermenting  a second  time.  The madder in
C being washed and precipitated, is equally good
with the other.           i
                To print yellow.
  For yellow, the block is besmeared with acetate
of alumine.   The cloth, after receiving this mor-
dant,   is dyed with quercitron bark, and is then
bleached.
  Nankeen yellow.—One of the most common  co-
lours  on cotton prints,  is a kind of Nankeen yellow,
of various shades  down to a deep yellowish  brown
or drab.  It is usually  in stripes or spots.  To pro-
duce  it, the prititers besmear a block,  cut out into
the figure of the print, with acetate of iron, thick-
ened  with gum or flour; and apply it to the cotton,
which, after being dried and cieansed in the usual
manner, is plunged into a potash ley.   The quan-
tity of acetate of iron is always proportioned to the
depth of the shade.
  Red.—Red is  communicated  by  the same pro-
cess, only madder is substituted for the bark.
  Blue.—The fine light blues which appear  so fre-
quently on printed cottons,  are  produced by ap-
pl) ing to the cloth a block besmeared with a com-
position, consisting partly  of  wax,  which covers
all those parts of the  cloth  which remain white.
The cloth is then dyed in  a cold indigo vat; ana
after it is dry, the wax composition is removed by
hot water.
  Lilac and brown.—Lilac, flea brown,  and black-
ish brown, are given by means of acetite  ot iron  ;
the quantity of which is always proportioned to the
depth of the shade.  For very deep colours a little 
90
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 sumach  is  added.   The  cotton  is  afterwards
 dysd in the usual  manner with madder, and then
 bleached.
    Green.—To twelve quarts of muriatic acid, add
 by degrees one quart of" nitrous acid: saturate the
 whole with  grain tin, and boil it in a proper vessel
 till two-thirds are evaporated.
    To prepare the indigo for mixing with the solu-
 tion, take nine pounds of indigo, half a pound of
 orange orpiment, and grind it in about four quarts
 of water, mix it well with the indigo; and grind
 the whole in the usual way.
  To mix the solution of tin with prepared indigo.
   Take  two gallons  of  the  indigo prepared as
 above, then  stir into it, by degrees, one gallon of
 the solution of tin, neutralized by as much caustic
 alkali as can be  added without precipitating the
 tin from the acids.  For a lighter shade of green,
 less indigo will be necessary.   The goods are to
 oe dipped in the way of dipping China blues; they
 must not, however, be allowed to drain, but moved
 from  one vat to another as quickly  as possible.
 They are to  be cleansed in the usual way, in a sour
 vat of about  150 gallons of water to one gallon of
 sulphuric acid; they are then to be well  washed in
 decoctions of weld, and other yellow colour drugs,
 and are to be branned or  bleached till they  be-
 come white in those parts which are required  co-
 lourless.
          To print dove colour and drab.
  Dove colour and  drab  are given by  acetite of
 iron and quercitron  bark; the cloth is afterwards
 prepared  in the usual manner.
            To print different colours.
  When  different  colours  are to  appear in  the
 same  print,  a greater number of operations  are
 necessary.  Two or more blocks are  employed;
 upon each of which, that part of the print only is
 cut, which is to  be of some particular colour.
 These are besmeared with different mordants, and
 applied to the cloth, which is afterwards dyed as
 usual.  Let  us suppose, for instance, that these
 blocks are applied to  cotton,  one with acetite of
 alumine, another with acetite of iron, a third with
 a mixture of those two mordants, and that the cot-
 ton is then dyed with quercitron bark, and bleach-
 ed.   The parts impregnated  with  the  mordants
 would have the following colours:—
  Acetite of alumine, yellow.   Acetite  of iron,
 olive, drab, dove.  The mixture, olive green, olive.
  If the part of the yellow is covered over with the
 indigo liquor, applied with a  pencil,  it will  be
 converted into green.  By the same liquid, blue
 may be  given  to such parts of the print as re-
 quire it.
  If the cotton is dyed  with madder,  instead of
 quercitron bark, the print will exhibit the follow-
 ing colours:—
  Acetite  of alumine, red. Acetite of iron, brown,
black.   The  mixture, purple.
  When a greater number  of  colours are to ap-
pear; for instance, when those  ccmmunicated  by
bark, and  those by madder are wanted at the same
time, mordants  for  parts of the pattern are to  be
applied: the cotton then is to be dyed in the mad-
der bath, and bleached; then the rest of  the mor-
dants,  to fill  up the pattern, are added,  and the
cloth  is again  dyed  with  quercitron bark, and
bleached.   The second dyeing does not much af-
fect the madder colours;  because the mordants,
 which render them  permanent,  are  already satu-
rated.  The yellow tinge is easily removed by the
 subsequent bleaching.   Sometimes  a  new mor-
 dant is also  applied to some of the madder co-
lours, in consequence of which, they receive a new  |
 permanent colour from the bark.    After the last  |
bleaching, new colours may be added by'means of ii
  the indigo liquor.  The following table will give
  an idea of the  colours which may be given to cot-
  ton by these processes.
    I. Madder dye.—Acetite of alumine, red. Ace-
  tite of iron, brown, black.   Acetite diluted, lilac.
  Both mixed, purple.
    II.  Black dye.—Acetite of  alumine,  yellow.
  Acetite of iron, dove, drab.  Lilac and  acetite of
  aiumine, olive.  Red and acetite of alumine, orange.
    III.  Indigo dye.—Indigo, blue.  Indigo and yel-
  low, green.
  To prepare a  substitute for gum used in calico
                    printing.
    Collect half a ton weight of scraps  of peits or
  skins, or pieces of rabbit or sheep skins, and boil
  them together for seven or eight  hours, in 350 gal-
  lons of water, or until it becomes a strong size.
  Then draw it off, and when cold, weigh it.  Warm
  it  again, and to every hundred weight, add 4 gal-
  lons of the strongest sweet wort  that can be made
 from malt, or 20 pounds weight  of sugar.   When
 incorpr rated,take it off,and put it into a cask for use.
    This substitute for gum  may be used by calico
 printers in mixing up nearlv all  kinds  of colours.
 By using a sixth part only of gum with it, it  will
 also improve the gum, and, be a saving of 200 per
 cent, and without gum,  of 400 per cent.  It will also
 improve and preserve the paste  so much used by
 printers.
           To prepare anattofor dyeing
   Anatto is a colouring fecula of a resinous nature,
 extracted from the seeds of a tree very common in
 the West  Indies, and  which in height never ex-
 ceeds 15 feet.
   The Indians employ two processes to obtain the
 red fecula  of these seeds.  They first pound them,
 and mix them with a  certain  quantity  of water,
 which in the course of five or six days favours the
 progress of fermentation. The liquid then becomes
 charged with the colouring part; and the superflu-
 ous moisture is afterwards separated by slow eva-
 poration over the fire, or by the heat of the sun.
  Another method.—This consists in  rubbing the
 seeds between the hands in a vessel filled with wa-
 ter.  The  colouring part is precipitated, and forms
 itself into a mass like a  cake  of wax; but if the red
 fecula, thus detached, is much more beautiful than
 in the first process, it is less in quantity. Besides,
 as the splendour of it is too bright, the Indians are
 accustomed to weaken it by a mixture of red san-
 dal wood.
                 Use of anatto.
  The natives of the East India  islands used for-
 merly to employ anatto  for painting their bodies,
 &c. at present, it is applied,  in Europe, to the pur-
 poses of dyeing.  It is employed to give the first
 tint to woollen stuffs intended to be dyed red, blue,
 yellow, and green, &c.
  In the art of the varnisher it forms part of the
 composition of changing varnishes, to give a cold
 colour to the metals to which these varnishes are
 applied.
               To choose anatto.
  It ought to be chosen of a flame colour, brighter
in the interior part than on the outside, soft to the
touch, and  of a  good  consistence.  The paste of
anatto becomes hard in Europe; and it loses some
of its odour, which approaches near to that of vio-
lets.
               To prepare litmus.
  The Canary and Cape de Verd  islands produce
a kind  of  lichen or moss which  yields a violet
colouring part, when exposed to the contact of am-
monia disengaged from urine, in a state of putre-
faction,  by  a mixture of lime. When the processes
are finished it is  known by the name of litmus.
  This article is prepared on a large scale at Lon- 
DYEING.
91
don, Paris, and Lyons.  In the latter city another
kind of lichen, which grows on the rocks like moss,
is employed.
  The ammonia joins the resinous part of the plant,
developes its colouring part  and combines with it.
In this state the lichen  forms a paste of a violet red
colour, interspersed with whitish spots, which give
it a marble appearanae.
  Litmus is employed in dyeing to communicate a
violet colour to silk and woollen.  It is used also
for colouring the liquor of thermometers.
           To prepare bastard saffron.
  The flowers of this plant contain two colouring
parts: one soluble  in water, and  which is thrown
away; the other soluble in alkaline liquors.   The
latter colouring part becomes the basis of various
beautiful  shades of cherry colovr, ponceau, rose-
colour, &c.  It is employed for dyeing  feathers,
and constitutes the vegetable red, or Spanish ver-
milion employed by ladies to heighten their com-
plexion.
  Carthamus cannot furnish its resinous colouring
part,  provided with all its  qualities, until it has
been deprived of that which is  soluble in water.
For this purpose, the dried flowers of the cartha-
mus are  enclosed  in  a linen bag, and the bag is
placed in a stream of running water.   A man with
wooden shoes  gets upon the bag every eight or ten
hours, and treads it on  the bank until the water ex-
pressed from it is colourless.
  These moist flowers, after being strongly squeez-
ed in the bag,  are spread out on  a piece of canvas
extended  on a frame, placed over a wooden box,
and covered with  five or  six per cent,  of  their
weight of carbonate  of soda.  Pure water is then
poured over them; and this process is repeated se-
veral times, that the alkali may have leisure to be-
come charged with the colouring  part  which it
dissolves.  The liquor, when filtered, is of a  dirty
red, and  almost brown colour. The colouring part,
thus held in solution, cannot be employed for co-
louring bodies until it  is free; and to set it at liber-
ty, the soda must be brought into contact with a
body which has more affinity for it.  It is  on this
precipitation,  by an intermediate substance, that
the process for making Spanish vermilion is found-
ed, as well as  all the results arising from the di-
rect application of this colouring part, in the art of
dyeing.
             Utility of sheep's dung.
  This article is used in dyeing, for the purpose
of preparing  cotton and linen to receive  certain
colours,  particularly the red madder and cross-
wort, which it performs by impregnating the  stuff's
with an  animal mucilage, of which it contains  a
large quantity, and thus assimilating them to wool
and silk.
               To prepare woad.
   This is effected from the leaves of the plant so
called, by grinding them to a paste, of which balls
are made, placed in heaps, and occasionally sprink-
led with water to promote the fermentation:  when
this is finished the woad  is allowed to fall into  a
coarse powder used as a blue dye-stuff.
                To prepare indigo.
   This dye is derived from the leaves and the
young shoots  of several species of indigo plants, by
soaking them either in cold water, or still better
in water  kept warm, and at about 160°  Fahr. till
the liquor becomes a deep green;  it is then drawn
off and  beat  or churned till blue flakes appear,
when lime water is added, the yellow liquor drawn
off, and the blue sediment dried and formed into
lumps.
              To prepare carmine.
   Boil one ounce troy of cochineal finely powdered
in 12 or 14 pints of rain or distilled water, in a tin-
ned copper vessel for three minutes, then add 25
grains of alum, and oontinue the boiling for two
minutes longer, and let it cool; draw off the clear
liquor as soon as it is only blood warm, very care-
fully into shallow vessels, and put them by, laying
a sheet of paper over each of them, to keep out the
dust for a couple  of days, by which time the car-
mine will have settled.  In case the carmine does
not separate properly, a few drops of a solution of
green vitriol will throw it down immediately. The
water being drawn off, the carmine is dried in a
warm stove: the  first  coarse sediment  serves to
make Florence lake; the water drawn off is liquid
rouge.
    To obtain a dyeing matter from potato tops.
  Cut off the top when it is in flower, an 1 extract
the juice, by bruising  and pressing it.  Linen or
woollen imbibed in this liquor forty-eight hours,
will take a brilliant, but solid and permanent yel-
low colour.  If the cloth be afterwards plunged in
a blue dye, it will acquire a beautiful permanent
green colour.   As  to  the mode of execution, it
should pass through the hands ofa chemist or skil-
ful dyer, to derive all the advantages it is capable
of furnishing.
                To print carpets.
  These carpets  are  made  of knitted  wool, by
means ofa machine,- they are afterwards pressed
and receive all the colours and designs wished for.
These designs, printed on the tissue by means of
wooden boards, are extremely neat; the colours are
very brilliant, and resist the rubbing extremely
well, provided they traverse the tissue from one
part to another.
  These new carpets  are -warm, and have the ad-
vantage of being cheaper than other carpets; they
last i»s  long, and are  not crossed by seams disa-
greeable to the  eye, even on  a breadth  of from
twelve to fifteen feet.
                  To dye hats.
  The hats should be first strongly galled by boil-
ing them a long time in a decoction of galls with
a little logwood,  that the dye  may penetrate the
better into  their substance; after which a proper
quantity of vitriol and decoction of logwood, with
a little verdigris, are added, and the hats continued
in this mixture for a considerable time.  They are
afterwards put into fresh liquor of logwood, galls,
vitriol and  verdigris;  and where  the hats are of
great price, or ofa hair which with difficulty takes
the dye, the same process is repeated a third time.
For obtaining the most perfect colour, the hair oi
wool is dyed blue previously to its being formed
into hats.
   Another method.—Boil 100 pounds  of logwood,
12 pounds of gum, and 6 pounds of galls, in a pro-
per quantity of water for some hours; after which,
about 6 pounds of verdigris and 10 of green vitriol
are added, and the liquor kept just simmering, or
of  a heat  a little below boiling.  Tensor twelve
dozen of hats are immediately put in, each  on its
block, and kept  down by cross bars  for about an
hour and a half; they are then taken out and aired,
and the same number of others put in their room.
The two sets of hats are thus dipped and aired al-
ternately, eight  times  each; the liquor  being re-
freshed each time with more of the ingredients, but
in less quantity than at first.
        To prove the colours of dyea stuffs.
   For crimson,  scarlet, flesh-colour, violet, peach
blossom, all shades of blue, and other colours bor-
dering on these, dissolve half an ounce of alum in
a pint of water, in an earthen vessel, and into this
put the eighth of an ounce of the stuff or thread
that is to be proved; boil the whole for five minutes,
and wash it out in clean water.
   For all sorts of yeljov, green, madder, red, cin- 
92
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK,
namon, and similar  colours, bo'l a ouarter of an
ounce of soap in a pint of water, put in the eighth
of an ounce  of tne stuff to be tried, and boil for
five minutes.
  For hair brown, &c. powder an ounce of tartar,
and boil it in a pint of water, and boil a quarter of
an ounce of the stuff or thread in the solution for
five minutes.
  MISCELLANEOUS  RECEIPTS  FOR  DYE-
             ING, STAINJNG, &c.

              To turn red hair black.
    Take  a pint of the liquor of pickled herrings,
  half a pound of lamp-black, and two ounces of the
  rust of iron.   Mix and  boil them  for twenty mi-
  nutes, then strain and rub the liquid well into the
  roots of the^ hair.
           To change the colour of hair.
    This is done by spreading the hair to bleach on
  the grass like linen,  after first washing it out  in a
  lixivious water.   This ley, with the force of the
  sun and air, brings the hair to a perfect whiteness.
  There is also a method of dyeing hair with  bis-
  muth, which renders such white hair as borders too
  much upon the yellow, ofa bright silver colour.
    Hair may be changed  from a red, grey, or other
  disagreeable colour,  to a brown or deep black, by
  a solution of silver.  The  liquors, sold under the
  name  of hair  waters, are,  in fact, no more  than
  solutions of silver in aqua-fortis,  largely diluted
 with watei, with the addition of ingredients, which
 contribute nothing to their efficacy.  The solution
  should be fully saturated with the silver, that there
 may be  no more  acid in it than is necessary for
 holding the metal dissolved; and besides dilution
 with water, a little spirit of wine may be added for
 the further decomposition of the acid.   For dilut-
. ing the solution, distilled water, or pure rain-wa-
 ter, must be used; the common spring-waters turn-
 ing it milky, and precipitating a part of the  dis-
 solved silver.   It is to be observed also, that if the
 liquor touches the  skin, it has the same effect on it
 as on the matter to be stained, changing the  part
 moistened with it to an indelible black.  Hair  may
 also be dyed of any colour fo. the same  manner as
 wool.
         To dye bristles or feathers green.
   Take  of verdigris  and verditer,  each 1 ounce,
 gum water 1 pint; mix  them well,  and dip the
 bristles or feathers, they having been first soaked
 in hot water, into the said mixture.
   Blue.—Take of indigo and risse, each 1 ounce,
 and a piece of alum the  size of a hazel nut;  put
 them into gum water, and dip the materials into it
 hot, hang them up to dry, and clap  them well  that
 they may open, and by changing the  colours, the
 aforesaid materials may be in this manner dyed of I
 any colour; for purple, use lake and indigo;  for
 carnation, vermilion and smalt.
   Red.—Take an  ounce of Brazil wood in powder,
 half an ounce of alum, a quarter of an ounce of
 vermilion, and a pint of vinegar, boil them up to a
 moderate thickness, and dip the bristles orfeathers,
 they having been first soaked in hot water, into the
 said mixture.
           To dyz or colour horse hair.
   Steep  in water wherein a small quantity of  tur-
 pentine has been boiled for the space of two hours;
 then having prepared  the colours very hot, boil the
 hair therein, and any colour, black  excepted,  will
 take, but that will only take a dark red or dark blue,
 Sec.
                 To  dye gloves.
   Take  tne colour suitable for the occasion; if
 dark take Spanish brown and black earth; if lighter,
 yellow and whiting;  and so on with other colours;
 mix  them with a moderate  fire, daub  the  gloves
 over with the colour wet, and let  them hang till
 they are dry, then beat out the  superfluity  of the
 colour, 2nd smooth them over with a stretching or
 sleeking stick, reducing them to their proper sh pe.
           To dye white gloves purple.
   Boil four ounces of logwood and two ounces of
 roche alum in three  pints of soft  water till  half
 wasted.  Let the liquor  stand to cool after  strain-
 ing.   Let the gloves be nicely mended, then with
 a brush rub them over, and when dry repeat it.
 Twice is sufficient, unless the colour is to be very
 dark; when dry, rub off the loose dye with a coarse
 cloth; beat  up the white of  an egg, and  with a
 sponge rub it over the leather.  The dye will stain
 the hands; but vetting them  with  vinegar  before
 they are washed will take it off.
       To dye gloves resembling IAmerick.
   Brown, or tan colours, are readily imparted to
 leather gloves, by the following  simple process.
 Steep saffron in boiling soft water for about twelve
 hours: then having slightly sewed  up the tops of
 the gloves to prevent the dye staining the insides,
 wet them over with a sponge or soft brush dipped
 into the liquid.  The quantity of saffron as well as
 of water will of course depend on how  much  dye
 may be wanted, and their relative  proportions on
 the depth of colour required.  A common tea-cup
 will contain sufficient in  quantity for a single pair
 of gloves.
          To tinge bone and ivory red.
   Boil shavings of scarlet cloth in water.   When
 it begins to boil, throw in a quarter of a pound of
 ashes made from the dregs of wine, which will ex-
 tract the colour; then throw in a little roche alum
 to clear it, and pass the water through a linen cloth.
 Steep the ivoiy or bone in aqua-fortis, and put into
 the water.  If it is necessary  to leave white  spots,
 cover the place destined for them with wax.
   Black.—Take  a double handful of  lime,  and
 slack it by sprinkling it  with water; stir it up to-
 gether, let it settle ten minutes, and pour the wa-
 ter into a pan.  Then take the ivory, hue. and steep
 it in the lime water 24 hours, after which, boil it
 in strong alum water I hour,  and dry it  in the air.
   Another method.—Steep the bone or ivory dur-
 ing five or six days, in water  ot galls, with  ashes
 made with dried dregs of wine and arsenic; then
 give it two or three layers of the same black, with
 which plum-tree is blackened, in order  to imitate
 ebony.
   Or dissolve silver in aqua-fortis,  and put into it
 a little rose-water.  Rub the ivory  with this, and
 allow it to dry in t':e sun.
   Green.—This colour is imparted to ivory or bone
by a solution of copper or verdigris in aqua-fortis,
 or by grinding together two parts of verdigris, and
 one of sal-ammoniac.
   Purple.—Take four ounces of aqua-regia, anrt
 one of sal-ammoniac.
   Yellow.—Ivory, bone, horn, &c.  may  be stained
yellow, by previously boiling them  in a'solution of
one pound of alum, in two quarts of water, then
immersing them for half an hour in a liquor pre-
pared by boiling half a pound of turmeric in a gal-
lon of water, until it be  reduced to three quarts,
and afterwards plunging the coloured  substance
into alum water.
   Blue.-—All bony matters may  be stained  blue,
by first tinging them with green, and then dipping
them into a hot and strong solution of pearl-ashes.
          To prepare wood for dyeing.
  The wood mostly used to dye black is  pear-tree,
holl/, and beach, all of which lake a beautiful black
colour.  Do not use wood that has  been  long cut,
or aged, but let it be as fresh as possible.   After 
DYETNG.
93
the veneers have had one hour's boiling, and then
taken out to cool, thecolourisalwaysrnuch stronger.
When dyed they should be dried  in the air, and
not by the fire,  nor in a kiln of any kind, as artifi-
cial heat tends to destroy the colour.
  In order to dye blue, green, red or other colours,
take clear holly.   Put the  veneers into a box or
trough, with clear water, and let them remain four
or five days, changing the water once or  twice as
occasion may require: the  water  will clear the
wood of slime, &c.   Let them dry about twelve
hours before they are put into the dye; by observ-
ing this, the colour will strike quicker, and be of
a brighter hue.
      To prepare turnsole for staining wood.
  Boil four ounces of turnsole in a pint and a half
of water, in which lime has been slaked.
        To stain oak a mahogany  colour.
  Boil together Brazil wood and Roman alum, and
Defore it is applied to the wood, a little potash is to
De added to it.  A suitable  varnish for wood, thus
tinged, may be made by dissolving amber in oil of
turpentine, mixed with a small portion of linseed
oil.
  Ebony-black.—Steep the wood for two  or  three
days in luke-warm water, in which a little  alum
has been dissolved ;  then  put a handful of log-
wood, cut snail, into a pint of water, and boil it
down to less than half a pint.  If a little indigo is
added, the  colour will be more beautiful.   Spread
a layer of this liquor quite hot on the wood with a
pencil,  which will give it a violet colour.   When
it is diy, spread on another layer;  dry it again, and
give it a third:  then boil verdigris at discretion in
its own vinegar, and  spread  a layer of it on the
wood: when it  is dry, rub it with a brush, and then
with oiled chamois skin.  This gives a fine black,
and imitates perfectly tlje colour of ebon)'.
  Another  method.—After forming the wood into
the destined figure, rub it with aqua-fortis a  little
diluted. Small threads of wood will rise in the
drying, which  is  to be rubbed off with  pumice-
stone.  Repeat this process again, and then rub the
wood with  the  following composition; put  into a
glazed earthen  vessel a pint of strong vinegar, two
ounces of fine  iron filings,  and half  a pound of
pounded galls, and allow them to infuse for  three
or fo'.r hours on hot cinders.  At the end of this
time augment the fire, and pour into the Vessel four
ounces of coyiperas (sulphate of iron), and a chopin
of water having half an ounce of borax  and as much
indigo dissolved in it; and make the whole boil till
a froth rises.   Rub several layers of this upon the
wood; and, when  it is dry, polish  it with leather
on which a little tripoli has been put.
     To stain beech-wood a  mahogany colour.
   Break two ounces of dragon's blood in oieces,
and put them into a quart of rectified spirit of wine;
let the bottle stand in a warm place, and  shake it
frequently.  When dissolved it is fit for use.
   Anot/ier mrthod.—Boil one pound of logwood in
four quarts of water,  and add a double handful of
walnut peeling. Boil it up again, take out the chips,
add a pint  of the best vinegar, and it will be fit for
use.
          To stain musical instruments.
   Crimson.—Boil one pound  of  ground Brazil-
wood in three quarts of water for an hour;  strain it,
and add half an ounce of cochineal; boil it  again
for half an  hour gently, and it will be fit for use.
   Purple.—Boil  a pound of chip logwood in three
quarts of water for an hour;  then add four ounces
of pearl-ash, and two ounces of indigo pounded.
           To stain box-wood brown.
   Hold the work to the fire, that it may  receive a
gentle warmth; then take aqua-fortis, and with a
feather pass it over the work, till it cnanges to a
fine brown.   Then oil and polish it.
           To dye wood a silver grey.
  Let not the veneers be too dry; when put into
the copper, pour hot iron  liquor (acetate of iron)
over them, ami add one  pound of chip-logwood
with two ounces of  bruised  nut-galls.  Then boil
up another pot of iron liquor to supply the copper,
keeping the veneers covered and boiling two hours
a day, until thoroughly penetrated.
  Bright  yellow.—A very small bit of aloes put
into the varnish, will make the wood of a good yel-
low colour.
  Another method.—Reduce four pounds  of the
roots of barberry, by sawing, into dust, which put in a
copper or brass pan,  add four ounces of turmeric,
to which put  four gallons  of water, then put in as
many holly veneers as the  liquor will cover; boil
them together for three hours, often turning them.
When cool, add two ounces  of aqua fortis, and the
dye wnl strike through much sooner.
  Bright green.—Proceed as before to produce a
yellow;  but instead of aqua fortis, add as much of
the vitriolated indigo as will produce the desired
colour.
  Another method.—To three pints of the strongest
vinegar,  add  four ounces of  the best verdigris,
ground  fine,  half an ounce of  sap-green, and half
an ounce of indigo. Proceed in straining « - before.
  Bright red.—To two pounds of genuine Brazil-
dust, add 4 gallons of water, 'put in as many ve-
neers as the  liquor will well cover, boil them  for
three hours, and let them  cool; then add two oun-
ces of alum,  and two ounces  of aqua fortis,  and
keen it.lnke-warm until  it has  struck through.
  Purple.—To two pounds of chip log-wood, and
half a  pound of Brazil-dust,  add four gallons of
water.   Put in the  veneers, and boil them well;
then add  six  ounces  of pearl-ash and two ounces
of alum; .let  them boil two  or three hours everv
day. till the colour has struck through.
  Fine  blue.—Into a pound of oil of vitriol in a
glass bottle, put four ounces of  indigo,  and pro-
ceed as before directed.
          To stain paper  or parchment.
  Yellow.—Paper may be stained a beautiful yel-
low by the tincture of turmeric formed by infusing
an ounce or more of the root, powdered, in a pint
of spirit of wine.  This may be made to give any
tint of yellow, from the lightest straw to the full
colour, called French yellow, and will be equal in
brightness even to the best dyed silks.   If yellow
be want d of a warmer, or redder cast, anatto, or
dragon's blood, roust be added.  The best manner
of using these, and  the following tinctures, is to
spread them  even on the paper,  or parchment, by
means ofa broad brush, in the manner of varnish.
   Crimson.—A very fine crimson  stain  may be
given to paper by  a tincture of the  Indian lake,
which may be made by infusing the lake some days
in spirit of wine, and then pouring oft'the tincture
from the dregs. It may be stained red by red ink.
It may also be stained ofa scarlet hue by the tinc-
ture of dragon's blood  in spirit of wine, but this
will not be bright.
   Green.—Paper  or parchment may be stained
green,  by the solution of  verdigris in vinegar, or
by the crystals of verdigris dissolved in water.
   Orange.—Stain the paper or parchment first of
a full yellow, by means of the tincture of turmeric;
then brush it over with a solution of fixed alkaline
salt, made by dissolving half an ounce  of pearl-
ashes, or salt of tartar, in a quart of water, and  fil-
tering the solution.
  Purple.— Paper or parchment may be  stained
purple, by archil, or by the tincture-of logwood. 
94
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 The juice of ripe privet berries expressed will
 likewise give a purple dye.
      To marble the edges of books or paper.
   Dissolve four ounces of gum arabic in two quarts
 of clear water; then provide  several colours mixed
 with water in  pots or shells, and with pencils pe-
 culiar to each colour,  sprinkle them by way of in-
 termixture upon the  gum-water, which must be
 put into a  trough, or some broad vessel; then with
 a stick curl them or draw them  out in  streaks, to
 as much variety as required.  Having  done this,
 hold the book or  books close together, and only
 dip  the edges in, on the top  of the water and co-
 lours very lightly;  which done, take them off, and
 the  plain impression of the colours in mixture will
 be upon the leaves; doing as well the end as the
 front of the books the  same manner.
          To marble the covers of books.
   This is performed by forming clouds  with aqua
 fortis, or spirit of vitriol, mixed with ink, and af- '
 terwards glazing the covers.
             To colour vellum green.
   Take half a pint of the best white wine vinegar,
 an ounce of verdigris, and  half an ounce  of sap
 green; dissolve them in the vinegar for a few days,
 having been heated by the fire.  Shake the  bottle
 frequently  before it is used.
   Wash the vellum over with weak potash water,
 and  wh ,:r  dry, colour it with the  green three or
 four times,  till it has  a good colour: when dry,
 wash it over with thin paste water, to give the vel-
 lum a gloss.
           To black the edges of paper.
   Mix black lead with ink, and when the paper is
 cut,  colour it thinly over with black ink, with a
 piece of fine cloth; rub on the black lead,  cover-
 ing every part; take the dog's-tooth, and burnish •
 the edge till it becomes well polished.
   When the edge of the paper,  after cutting, ap-
 pears rather rough, scrape it over  with a piece of
 glass or an iron scraper, with a fiat edge.
       To sprinkle the  edges of books, &c.
   The brushes used for book-edges, must be made
 of Russia hogs' bristles, of good thickness, tied
 round with cord,  glued at the thick end, and half
 covered with a piece of leather: when dry, tie the
 brush again with waxed cord, within half an inch
 of the soft part of it, and cut  it very smooth and
 even.  Brushes  made  after this  manner are pre-
ferable to those with a handle.
  Prepare the colour in a  cup; dip in  the  brush
till it(js charged, and then  press  it out  till it will
 drop ho longer.  The book must be screwed tight
in the cutting press: hold the brush in the left
hand, and,  with a folding-stick in the right, rub it
 over the brush, which will  cause the colour to
 sprinkle finely on the edges.   The brush mus* be
moved up and down overthe edge, as you sprinkle,
 to have it regular on every part. After the sprink-
             To bleach cloths, &c.
   The mode of bleaching which least injures the
texture of cloth formed of vegetable substances,  is
that effected by merely exposing it in a moistened
state to the atmosphere, after having been steeped in
a solution of potash or soda, but the length of time II
  ling is done, the brushes should be carefully wash-
  ed  in water,  particularly  after sprinkling blue,
  which will otherwise soon destroy the brush.
      To dye or stain horn tortoise-shell colour.
    The horn to be dyed must be first pressed into
  proper plates, scales,  or other flat form,  and the
  following mixture  prepared: take  of  quick-lime
  two parts, and litharge one part, temper them to-
  gether to the consistence ofa soft paste, with soap-
  ley.   Put this paste over all the parts of the horn,
  except such as are proper to be left transparent, in
  order to give it a near resemblance to the tortoise-
  shell.   The horn must remain in this manner, co-
  vered with the paste, till it is thoroughly dry;
  when, the paste being  brushed off,  the  horn will
  be found partly opaque and partly transparent,  in
  the manner of tortoise-shell, and when  put over a
  foil  of the kind of lattern called orsedue, will be
  scarcely distinguishable from it.  It requires some
'  degree of fancy  and judgment  to  dispose of the
  paste  in  such  a manner as to form a variety of
  transparent parts,  of   different  magnitudes  and
  figures, to look like the effect of nature: and it will
  be an improvement to  add semi-transparent parts,
  which may be  done  by  mixing whiting  with some
  of the paste, to weaken its operation in particular
  places, by which spots  of a reddish-brown  will be
  produced, which, if properly interspersed, espe-
  cially  on the edges of  the  dark parts, will greatly
  increase the beauty of the work, and its similitude
  to real tortoise-shell.
    Another method.—Take  an equal quantity  of
  quick-lime and red lead, and mix it up with strong
  soap lees.  Lay it on the horn with a small brush,
  like the mottle in tortoise-shell.  When dry, re-
  peat the same two or three times.
          To dye horns of different colours.
    Blr>.ck is performed  by steeping brass  in aqua
  fortis till  it is  turned green: with this the  horn  is
  to be washed once or twice, and then  put into a
  warmed decoction of logwood and water.
    Green is begun by boiling it, &c.  in alum-water,
 then with  verdigris, ammoniac, and white  wine
 vinegar,  keeping it hot therein till sufficiently
 green.
    Red is begun by boiling it  in alum water, then
 with verdigris,  ammoniac,  and finished  by  decoc-
 tion in a liquor compounded of quick-lime   steep-
 ed in  rain-water, strained, and to  every  pint an
 ounce of Brazil wood added. In this decoction the
 horns are to be boiled till sufficiently red.
    Horns receive a deep black stain  from solution
 of silver.  It ought  to be diluted to such a  degree
 as not sensibly to corrode the subject, and applied
 two or three times if  necessary, at considerable
 intervals,  the matter being exposed  as much as
 possible to the sun,  to  hasten  the appearance and
 deepening of the colour.
and other inconveniences attending this process
lead to the use of more active chemical operations.
  It is by the combination of oxygen with the co-
louring matter of the cloth, that it is deprived of
its hue, and  the different processes employed must
be adapted to  prepare it for this combination, and
BLEACHING  AND SCOURING. 
BLEACHING AND SCOURING.
95
render it as perfect as possible without destroying
its texture, an effect which, however, must neces-
sarily ensue in a greater or  less degree from the
union of oxygen with all bodies.   The operation
of bleaching requires four distinct processes.  First,
to remove the spittle with which the threads are
covered in the operation of spinning, and what is
called the weaver's dressing.  This may be effected
by soaking the cloth for some hours in warm wa-
ter, and then boiling it in an alkaline ley, prepared
with 20 parts of water,  and one part of the potash
sold  for  this purpose,  rendered more active by
being mixed with one-third of lime.  After it has
been boiled for some hours in this solution, it is to
be well washed with  water, and then  exposed to
the second  process—the action of oxygen, which is
best applied by means of the oxymuriate of lime,
sold ready  prepared for this purpose.  The solu-
tion of oxymuriate of lime must be if such strength
as nearly to destroy the  colour of a  solution of in-
digo in water,  slightly  acidulated with sulphuric
acid.   The cloth is to be alternately steeped in this
liquor, and a solution (made as before directed,)
four or five times,  using fresh liquor at each pro-
cess.  It is then to  be well rubbed and washed
with soft soap and  water, which prepares it for the
last process.
  The steeping is  in a weak solution of sulphuric
acid, and from 60 to 100  parts of water, the strength
being thus varied according to the  texture of the
cloth.  This dissolves  the  remaining colouring
matter which had resisted the action of alkali, and
the oxymuriate of lime, as well as a small quantity
of iron contained  in  all vegetable matter.   The
cloth is then to be exposed to the air for some days,
and watered, to carry off any remains of the acids,
and remove the unpleasant odour it acquires from
the oxymuriate of lime and potash.
    To bleach linen, &c. by oxymuriatic acid.
  To ascertain the strength of this acid for bleach-
ing, a solution  of  indigo in the sulphuric acid is
employed.   The colour of this is destroyed by the
oxygenated muriatic acid; according to the quan-
tity of it that can be discoloured by a given quan-
tity of the liquor, its strength is known.
  In this country,  machinery is employed  for rins-
ing and beating; the apparatus must be arranged
according to the objects to be bleached; the skeins
of thread must  be  suspended in the tub destined
for them, and the cloth  must be  rolled upon reels
in the apparatus.  When every thing is thus dis-
posed, the tubs are filled with oxygenated muriatic
acid, by introducing a funnel, which descends to
the bottom of the tub, in order to prevent the dis-
persion of the gas.  The cloth is wound on the
frame  work on which the skeins are suspended, is
turned several times, until it is judged, by taking
out a  small  quantity of the liquor from  time to
time, and trying it by  the test of the solution of
indigo, that it is sufficiently exhausted.   The
weakened  liquor is then drawn  off, and  may be
again employed for a new saturation.
         To bleach by oxymuriate of lime.
  To cause a  large quantity of lime to  combine
with the oxymuriatic gas, the lime is mechanically
suspended in the water, into which the gas is made
to pass, and agitated,  so as to present fresh matter
to the gas.   By this means the oxymuriate of lime
is formed in a very convenient manner; it is dissolv-
ed in water, and used as a bleaching liquor.
  This liquor is found to be preferable to the oxy-
genated muriatic acid  and  potass.   At the great
bleach-field in Ireland,  four lrys of potass are ap-
plied alternately with four weeks' exposure on the
grass, two immersions in the oxygenated  muriate
of lime, a ley of potash between  the two, and the |
exposure of a week on the grass between each ley .
and the immersions.   During summer, two  leys
and fifteen days' exposure are sufficient to prepare
clot'.i for the oxygenated muriate; the three alter-
nate leys,  with immersions in  the liquor, will be
sufficient to complete the bleaching:  nothing then
will be necessary, but  to wind the cloth through
the sulphuric acid.
  The oxygenated muriatic acid  gas may also be
combined  with lime in a dry  state, or the water
may be evaporated, when it is employed for the for-
mation of oxymuriates, which may then be very
conveniently  transported to any  distance without
injury to its detersive power.
        To prepare the sulphuret of lime.
  Take of sulphur or  brimstone, in fine powder,
four pounds;  lime, well slaked and sifted, twenty
pounds; water, sixteen gallons:  these  are  to be
well mixed, and boiled for about half an hour in
an iron vessel, stirring them briskly from time to
time.   Soon after the agitation of boiling is over,
the solution of the sulphuret  of  lime clears, and
may be drawn off free  from the  insoluble matter,
which  is considerable, and  which rests upon the
bottom of  the boiler.   The liquor, in this state, is
pretty  nearly  the  colour  of small  beer, but not
quite so transparent.
          To  bleach by sulphuret of lime.
  Sixteen  gallons of fresh water  are  afterwards to
be poured upon the insoluble dregs in the boiler,
in order to separate the whole  of the  sulphuret
from them.  When this  clears (being previously
well agitated), it is also to be drawn off and mixed
with the fi.st liquor; to these again, 33 gallons more
of water may  be added, which  will reduce the li-
quor to a  proper  standard for  steeping the cloth.
Here we have (an  allowance being  made for  eva-
poration, and for the quantity retained in the dregs)
sixty gallons of liquor from four  pounds of brim-
stone.
  When linen is freed  from the weaver's dressing,
it is to be  steeped  in the  solution of sulphuret of
lime (prepared as above) for about twelve or eight-
een hours, then taken  out  and very well washed.
When dry, it is to be steeped in the oxymuriate of
lime for twelve or fourteen hours, and then washed
and dried.  This process is to be repeated six times,
that is, by six alternate immersions in each liquor^
which has been found to whiten the linen.
  Steam has  been lately employed for bleaching
with great success in France.  The process  was
brought from the Levant.  Chapel  first made  it
known to the public.
  To bleach cloth in this manner, it must be im-
mersed in a  slight alkaline caustic  liquor,  and
placed  in a chamber constructed over a boiler, into
which is put the alkaline ley which is to be raised
into steam.  After the fire has been lighted, and
the cloth has remained  exposed to the action of the
steam for a sufficient length of time, it is taken out,
and immersed in the oxygenated  muriate of lime,
and afterwards exposed for  two or three days on
the grass.   This operation, which is very expedi-
tious, will be  sufficient for cotton:  but if linen cloth
should retain  a yellow tint, a second alkaline caus-
tic vapour-bath, and two or three days on the grass,
will be sufficient to give it the necessary uegree of
whiteness.
          To  bleach by alkalized steam.
  In the process of bleaching by  steam, the high
temperature swells up  the fibres  of the thread or
cloth; the  pure alkali which rises with the elastic
fluid, seizes with avidity on the colouring matter;
and seldom does the tissue of the flax or hemp re-
sist the penetrating effect of this vapour-bath.  The
whole matter, therefore, by which they are colour-
ed, is attacked and decomposed by this single ope-
ration; and even if a part of it has been able to resist, 
9G
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
 nothing more is necessary but to repeat the opera-
 tion, after a previous immersion and exposure on
 the grass, to ensure its complete effect.  The alkali
 even appears to have a much livelier and more caus-
 tic action, when it is combined with caloric, than
 in ordinary leys, where the temperature never rises
 abrve 162 negroes of Fahrenheit.  By making the
 cloth, or  thread, pass through the ley of oxygen-
 ated muriate of lime, an union is effected  between
 the solution and  the carbon, arising from the ex-
 tracto-mucous  matter of the  flax; carbonic acid is
 formed; the water even, in which this  new com-
 pound is diluted, concurs to promote the combina-
 tion: if the cloth is then exposed on the grass, the
 carbonic acidis dissipated, and the cloth is bleached.
                To bleach cotton.
  The first operation consists in scouring it in  a
 slight alkaline  solution; or what is better, by ex-
 posure to steam.  It is afterwards put into a basket,
 and rinsed in running water.   The  immersion of
 cotton in an alkaline ley, however it may be rinsed,
 always leaves with it an-earthy deposit.  It is well
 known that cotton bears the action of acids better
 than hemp or flax; that time is even necessary be-
 fore the action  of them can be prejudicial to it; and
 by  taking  advantage of this valuable property in
 regard to  bleaching, means have been found to free
 it from  the earthy deposit, by pressing  down  the
 cotton in a very weak solution of sulphuric acid,
 and afterwards  removing the acid by washing, lest
 too long remaining in it should destroy the cotton.
                To bleach 1000I.
  The first kind of bleaching to which wool is sub-
 jected,  is to free it from grease.  This  operation
 is called scouring.  In  manufactories, it is gene-
 rally performed by an ammoniacal ley, formed of
 five measures of river water anil one of stale urine;
 the wool is immersed for  about 20  minutes in a
 hath, of this mixture, heated to fifty-six degrees; it
 is then taken out, suffered to drain, and then rinsed
 in running water: this manipulation softens the
wool, and  gives it the first degree of whiteness: it
is then repeated a  second, and even  a third time,
after which the  wool  is fit to be employed.  In some
places, scouring is performed with water  slight'v
impregnated with  soap; and,  indeed, for valuable
articles, this process is preferable, but it is too ex-
pensive  for articles of less value.
  Sulphurous acid  gas unites very easily  with wa-
ter, and in this  combination it may  be employed
for bleaching wool and silk.
        To prepare the sulphurous acid.
  The most economical method  is,  to decompose
 sulphuric acid,  by  the mixture of any combustible
matter capable  of taking from it any part of its
oxygen.  In exact  experiments of the laboratory,
when the chemist is desirous of having it in great
purity,  it  is obtained  by means of metallic sub-
 stances, and particularly by mercury; but for the
purpose of which we are treating,  where great
economy is required, we should recommend the
 most  common substances.  Take chopped straw,
or saw dust, and introduce it into a matrass:  pour
over it  sulphuric acid,  applying at the same time
 heat,  and  there will be disengaged sulphurous acid
gas, which may be combined with water in an ap-
paratus.
  The pieces are rolled  upon the reels,  and are
 drawn through the  sulphurous  acid by  turning
them, until it is observed that the whiteness is suf-
 ficiently bright.  They are then taken out, and
 are left to drain on a  bench  covered with cloth,
 lest they should be stained in consequence of the
 decomposition  of  the wood by the sulphurous
 acid;  they are  next  washed  in  river water, and
 Spanish white is employed, if it should be judged
 necessary.   This operation is performed by pass-
 ing the pieces through  a tub of clear water, in
 in which about eighl pounds of Spanish-white has
 been dissolved.  To obtain a fine whiteness,  the
 stuffs, in general, are twice sulphured.  Accord-
 ing to this process,  one  immersion, and reeling
 two or  three hours,  are  sufficient.  Azuring, or
 blueing, is performed by  throwing into the Span-
 ish-wfiite liquor a solution of one part of Prussian
 blue  to 400 parts of  water;  shaking the cloth in
 the liquid, and reeling it  rapidly.  The operation
 is  terminated  by a slight washing with soap,  to
 give softness and pliability to the stuffs.
           To full cloths,  woollens, c/c.
   The method of fulling woollen stuffs,  with soap,
 is this: a coloured cloth,  of about 45 ells, is to be
 laid in the usual manner in the trough of a fulling
 mill,  without first soaking it in water,  as is com-
 monly  practised in many places.  To  full tnis
 trough of cloth. 15 pounds of soap  are required,
 one-half of which is  to be melted in two pails of
 river,  or spring water,  made as hot as the hand
 can well bear it.  This solution is to be poured by
 little and little upon the cloth, in proportion as it
 is laid in the trough; after which it is to be taken
 out and stretched.  This  done, the cloth is imme-
 diately  returned  into the  same trough without any
 new soap, and there fulled for two hours more.
 Then taken out it is wrung well,  to express all the
 grease and filth.  After the second fulling, the re-
 mainder of the soap is dissolved in as  in the for-
 mer, and cast four different times on the cloth, re-
 membering to take out the cloth  every  two hours
 to  stretch  it, and undo the plaits and wrinkles it
 has acquired  in the trough. When sufficiently full-
 ed, and brought to the quality and thickness re-
 quired,  scour it  in  hot  water, keeping  it in the
 trough till it  is quite clean.   As to white cloths,
 as  these full more  easily and  in  less time than
 coloured ones, a third part of the soap may be
 spared.
    To prepare an improved bleaching liquor.
  This is effected by a dissolution in water of the
 oxygenated muriates of calcareous earth,  barytes,
 strontites, or magnesia.    The  earths  should  be
prepared in  the  dry way, by bringing  ihem in a
 solid form, in powder, or  in paste, in contact with
the oxygenated muriatic acid gas.  So prepared,
dissolve them in water, and apply them to the sub-
stances required to be bleached. By this mode, co-
lours may be removed  from linen, cotton, and ve-
getable and animal substances.
  Another.—Take of salts, 8 parts, sulphuric acid,
5 do. black oxide of manganese, 3 do. water,  3 do.
                 To bleach silk.
  Take a solution of caustic soda, so weak as to
make  only a fourth of a degree, at most, of the
areometer for  salts, and  fill with it the boiler of
the apparatus for  bleaching with  steam.  Charge
the frames with skeins of raw silk, and place them
in the apparatus until it is full; then close the door,
and make  the  solution boil.   Having  continued
the ebullition for twelve hours,  slacken the  fire,
and open the door of the apparatus.   The heat of
the steam, which  is alwav«s above 250 degrees, will
have been sufficient to free the silk from the gum,
and to scour it.  Wash the skeins in warm water;
and having wrung them, place  them again on the
frames in the apparatus, to undergo a second  boil-
ing. Then wash  them se\eral times in water, and
immerse them in water somewhat soapy, to give
them a little softness.  Notwithstanding the white-
ness which silk acquires by these different opera-
tions,  it must  be carried to  a higher degree of
splendour by exposing it to the action of sulphur-
ous acid gas,  in a close chamber,  or by immersing
it in sulphurous acid, as before recommended foi
 wool. 
BLEACHING AND SCOURING.
97
       To bleach prints and printed books.
  Simple immersion in oxygenated muriatic acid,
letting the article remain in it a longer or shorter
space of time, according to the strength of  the li-
quor, will be sufficient to whiten an engraving: if
it is required to whiten the paper ofa bound book,
as  it is  necessary that all the leaves should be
moistened by the acid, care must be taken to open
the book well, and to make the boards rest on the
edge of the vessel, in  such a manner that the pa-
per alone shall be dipped in the liquid; the leaves
must be separated from each other, in order that
they may be equally  moistened on both sides.
      Hare's method of bleacMng sliell-lac.
  Dissolve in an iron kettle one part of  pearl ash
in about eight parts of water, add one part of shell
or  seed  lac, and  heat the whole to ebullition.
When the lac is  dissolved cool the solution and
impregnate it with chlorine, till the lac is all pre-
cipitated.
                To wash chintz.
  Take two pounds of rice, boil it in two gallons
of water till soft; then pour the  whole into a tub;
let it stand till about the warmth in general used for
coloured  linens; then put the chintz in, and use
the rice instead of soap; wash it in this, till the
dirt appears to be out, then boil the same quantity
as above, but strain the rice from the water, and
mix it  in warm clear water.  Wash in this till
quite clean; afterwards rinse it in the water which
the rice has been boiled in, and this will answer
the end of starch, and no dew-will affect it.  If  a
gown, it must be taken to pieces, and when dried
be careful to hang it as smooth as possible;—after
it is dry, rub it with a sleek stone,  but use no iron.
           To wash fine lace or linen.
  Take a gallon of furze blossoms and burn them
to ashes, then boil them in six quarts of soft water;
this, when fine,  use in washing with the.suds, as
occasion requires, and the linen, ike. will not only
be  exceedingly while, but it is done with half the
soap, and little trouble.
       To clean black and white sarcenets.
  Lay these smooth and even upon a board,  spread
a  little  soap over the dirty  places; then make a
lather with  Castille  soap,  and with a common
brush, dip it in, pass it over the long way, and re-
peat it in this manner,  till one side is sufficiently
scoured, use the other in the  same manner; then
put it into hot water, and there let it lie,  till you
have prepared some  cold water, wherein a small
quantity of gum arabic has been dissolved.   Now,
rinse them  well,  take them  out and fold them,
 Crossing  out the  water with  the  hands  on the
 oard, and keeping them under the hands till they
are dry; at which time, have brimstone ready to dry
them over, till they are ready for smoothing, which
must be done on the right side, with a moderate
hot iron.
           To wash and stain tiffanies.
  Let the hens of the tiffanies be  at first only a
little soaped, then  having a lather  of  soap, put
them into it "hot,  and  wash  them very  gently for
fear they should be crumpled:  and when they are
clean, rinse them in warm water, in which  a little
gum arabic has been dissolved, keeping them from
the air as much as possible; then add a lump of
starch, wet the tiffanies with a soft linen rag, and
fold them up iu a clean cloth, pressing them till
they are near dry; after which put them near the
fire, and finish the drying over brimstone; then
shape them properly by gently ironing them.
           To wash and starch lawns.
  Lawns may be done in the same manner as the
former, only observe to iron  them on the wrong
tide, and  use  gum  arabic  water instead  of
starch, and, according to what has been directed
      N
 for sarcenets, any coloured silks may be starchedj
 abating or augmenting the gum water,  as  may be
 thought fit, according to the stiffness intended.
           To clean buff coloured cloth.
   Take tobacco-pipe  clay,  and mix it with water
 till it is  as thick as lime-water used for white-
 washing rooms; spread this over the  cloth, and
 when it is dry, rub it off with a brush, and the
 cloth will look extremely well.
      To make saponace.us ley for washing.
   Boil together in a sufficient quantity of water,  a
 gallon of good wood-ashes, and two or three hands-
 lul of fresh burnt lime.  Leave  the  lixivium  at
 rest,  till the extraneous matters have been deposit-
 ed at the bottom, or  thrown to the surface to be
 skimmed off.   Then  draw off the pure lixivium,
 add to it oil, to about  a thirtieth or  fortieth part of
 its own  quantity.  The mixture  will  be a liquor
 white as milk, capable of frothing like soap-water,
 and in dilution with water,  perfectly fit to commu-
 nicate sufficient whiteness to linen, This liquor
 may be prepared from wood-ashes of all sorts, and
 from rancid grease, oil, or butter.  It is therefore
 highly  worthy the  attention  of  the  economist.
 When the ashes are suspected to  be unusually de-
 ficient in alkali, a small  addition of pulverized
 potash or soda may be made to the lixivium.
         To clean and starch point  lace.
   Fix the lace in a prepared tent, draw it straight,
 make a warm lather of Castille soap, and, with  a
 fine brush dipped in, rub over the  point gently; and
 when it is clean on one side, do  the  same to the
 other; then throw some clean water on it, in which
 a little alum has been dissolved, to take off the suds,
 and having some thin starch, go over with the same
 on the wrong  side, and iron it on the same side
 when dry, then open  it with a bodkin, and set it in
 order.
   To clean point lace, if not very  dirty,  without
 washing; fix it in a tent as the former, and go over
 with  fine bread, the crust being pared off, and when
 it is done, dust out the crumbs, &c.
              To clean white veils.
   Put the veil in a  solution of white soap, and let
 it simmer a quarter of an hour.  Squeeze it in some
 warm water and soap, till quite  clean.  Rinse  it
 from soap, and then in elean cold water, in which
 is a drop of liquid blue.   Then pour boiling water
 upon a tea-spoonful of starch, run the veil  through
 this,  and  clear it well, by clapping it.  Afterwards
 pin it out, keeping the edges straight and even.
              To clean black veils.
   Pass them through a warm  liquor of bullock's
 gall and water; rinse,in  cold  water; then take  a
 small piece of glue, pour boiling water on it, and
 pass the veil through  it; clap it, and frame it to dry.
      To clean white satin and flowered silks.
   Mix sifted stale bread crumbs with powder blvie,
 and rub it thoroughly all over, then shake it well,
 and dust it with clean soft cloths.  Afterwards,
 where there are any gold  or silver  flowers, take a
 piece of crimson ingrain velvet, rub the   flowers
 with  it, which will  restore them  to their original
 lustre.
|   Another method.—Pass them through a solution
i of fine hard soap, at a hand heat, drawing them
j through the hand.  Rinse in lukewarm water, dry
 and finish by  pinning out.  Brr-sh the flossy  or
 bright side with a clean clothes' brush, the way of
 the nap.  Finish them by dipping a sponge into  a
 size, made by  boiling isinglass in  water and rub
 the wrong side.   Rinse out a second time", and
 brush and dry near a  fire, or in a  warm room.
   Silks may be treated in the same way, but not
 brushed.   If the silks are for dyeing, instead of
 passing them through a solution of  soap and water,
 they must be boiled off; but if the silks are very 
98
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 •tout, the water must only be of heat sufficient to
 extract the dirt, and when rinsed in warm water,
 they are in a state for the dye.
   Another method.—Strew French chalk over them
 and brush it off with a hard brush once or twice.
        To clean coloured silks of all kinds.
   Put some soft soap into boiling water, and beat
 it till dissolved in a strong lather.  At a hand heat
 put in the article.   If strong, it  may be rubbed as
 in washing; rinse it quiculy in warm water,  and
 add oil of vitriol, sufficient, to give another water a
 sourish taste, if for bright yellows, crimsons, ma-
 roons, and scarlets; but for oranges, fawns, browns,
 or their shades, use no acid.  For bright scarlet,
 use a solution  of tin.   Gently  squeeze and then
 roll it in a coarse sheet, and wring it.  Hang it in
 a warm room to dry, and finish it by calendering
 or mangling.
  For pinks, rose colours, and thin shades, &c. in-
 stead of oil  of vitriol, or solution of tin, prefer
 lemon juice, or white tartar, or  vinegar.
  For blues, purples, and their shades, add a small
 quantity of American pearl-ash; it will restore the
 colours.  Wash the articles like a linen garment,
 but, instead of wringing, gently squeeze and sheet
 them, and  when dry, finish them with  fine gum
 water, or dissolved isinglass, to which add some
 pearl-ash, rubbed on the wrong side; then pin them
 out.
  Blues of all shades are dyed with archil, and af-
terwards dipped in a vat; twice cleaning with pearl-
ash, restores the colour.  For olive greens, a small
quantity of verdigris dissolved in water, or a solu-
tion of copper,  mixed with  the water, will revive
the colour again.
             To clean black silks.
  To bullock's  gall, add boiling  water sufficient to
make it warm,  and  with a clean sponge,  rub  the
silk well on both sides, squeeze it well out, and
proceed again in like manner.   Rinse it in spring
water, and  change the water till perfectly clean,
dry it in the air, and pin it out on a table/;  but first
dip the sponge  in glue-water, and rub  it on  the
wrong side; then dry it before a  fire.
            To dip rusty black silks.
  If it requires to be red dyed, boil logwood; and
in half an hour, put in the silk, and let it  simmer
half an hour.   Take it out, and dissolve  a little
blue vitriol and green copperas, cool  the  copper,
let it simmer half an hour, then  dry it over a stick
in the air.  If not red dyed,  pin it out, and rinse it
in spring water, in which half a tea-spoonful of oil
of vitriol has been put.  Work it about five minutes,
rinse it in cold water, and finish  it by pinning and
rubbing it with  gum water.
            To clean silk stockings.
  Wash with soap and  water; and simmer them in
the same for ten minutes, rinsing in  cold water.
For a blue cast,  put one drop of liquid blue, Lito a
pan of cold spring water, run the stockings through
this a minute or two, and  dry them.  For a pink
cast, put one  or two drops  of saturated pink dye
into cold water, and rinse them through this.  For
a flesh-colour, add a little rose pink in a thin soap-
liquor, rub them with clean flannel, and calender
or mangle them.
 To extract grease  spots from  silks and coloured
                 muslins, &c.
  Scrape French chalk, put it on the grease-spot,
and hold it near the fire, or  over a warm iron,  or
 water-plate, filled with boiling water. The grease
 will melt, and the French chalk absorb it, brush I
 or rub it off.  Repeat if necessary.
           To  take stains out of silk.
  Mix together in a phial, 2oz. of essence of lemon,
 I oz. of oil of turpentine.
  Grease and other spots in  silks, are to be rubbed
 gently with a linen rag dipped in the above com-
 position.
    To take spots of paint from cloth, silks, &c.
   Dip a pen in spirit of turpentine, and transfer if
 to the paint spot, in sufficient quantity to discharge
 the oil and gluten.  Let it stand some hours, then
 rub it.
   For large or numerous spots, apply the spirit of
 turpentine with a  sponge,  if possible before it is
 become dry.
                  To scour yam.
   It should be laid in lukewarm water for three or
 four days, each day shifting it once, wringing it out,
 and laying it in another water of the same nature;
 then  carry it to  a well or  brook, and rinse it  till
 nothing comes from it  but  pure clean water: that
 done, take a bucking-tub, and cover the bottom
 with very fine aspen ashes; and then having opened
 and spread the slippings, lay them on those ashes,
 and put more ashes above, and lay in more slip-
 pings, covering them with ashes as before; then lay
 one upon another till the yarn is put in; afterwards
 cover up the uppermost yarn with a bucking-cloth,
 and, in proportion to the size of the tub, lay in a
 peck or two more  of ashes; this done, pour upon
 the  uppermost cloth, a great  deal  of  warm water
 till  the tub can receive no more, and let it stand so
 all night.   Next morning set a kettle  of clean wa-
 ter on the fire; and when it is warm,  pull out the
 spiggot of the bucking-tub, to let. the water run
 out  of it into another clean  vessel;  as the bucking-
 tub  wastes, hll it up again with warm water on the
 fire; and as the water on the fire wastes, so like-
 wise fill up that with the ley that comes  from the
 bucking-tub, ever observing to make the ley hotter
 and hotter, till it boils: then  you must, as  before,
 ply  it with the boiling ley at least four hours toge-
 ther.   For whitening, you must take off this buck-
 ing-cloth; then putting the yarn with the ley ashes
 into large tubs, with  your hands labour the yarn,
 ashes, and  ley, pretty  well together,  afterwards
 carry  it to a  well or river, and rinse it clean; theu
 hang  it upon poles in the  air all day, and in  the
 evening take the slippings down, and  lay  them in
 water all night; the next day  hang them up again,
 and  throw water on them as they dry, observing to
 turn tha/: side outermost, which whitens slowest.
 After  having done this for a week together, put all
 the  yarn again into a bucking-tub, without ashes,
 covering, it as before with a bucking-cloth;  lay
•thereon good store of fresh ashes, and drive that
 buck,  as before, with very strong  boiling ley, for
 half a day, or more; then take it out, and rinse  it
 hanging it up, as before, in the  day time, to dry,
 and  laying it in water at night,  another week.
 Lastly, wash it over in  fair water, and dry it.
        To scour thick cotton counterpanes.
   Cut a pound of mottled soap into thin slices; and
 put it  into a pan with a quarter of an ounce of pot-
 ash, and an ounce  of pearl-ash.  Pour a pail of
 boiling water on it, and let it stand J;U dissolved.
 Then  pour hot and cold water into a scouring tub,
 with a bowl of the  solution.   Put  in the  counter-
 pane,  beat it well, turn it often, and give it a  se-
 cond liquor as before, then  rinse it in cold water.
 Now put three tea-spoonsful of liquid blue into a
 thin liquor;  stir it, and put in the counterpane:
 beat it about five minutes, and dry  it in the air.
            To scour undyed wcollens.
   Cut J a pound of the best yedow soap  into thin
 slices, and pour such a quantity of boiling river
 water on it as will dissolve  the soap, and  make it
 of the consistence of oil.  Cover the articles about
 two inches with water such as the hand can bear,
 and  add a lump of  American pearl-ash, and about
 a  third of the soap  solution.   Beat them till  no
 heat, or lather rises on the water; throw away the 
BLEACHESG AND SCOURING.                             99
 dirty water, and proceed as before with hotter wa-
 ter without pearl-ash.
        To scour clothes, coats, pelisses. &c.
   If a black, blue, or brown coat, dry 2 ounces of
 fuller's earth,  and pour on it sufficient boiling wa-
 ter to dissolve it, and plaster with it the spots of
 grease; take a  pennyworth of bullock's gall, mix
 with it half a pint of stale urine; and a little boil-
 ing water; with a hard brush dipped in this liquor,
 brush spotted places. Then dip the coat in a bucket
 of cold spring  water.   When  nearly dry, lay the
 nap right, and pass a drop of oil of olives over the
 brush to finish it.
   If grey, drab, fawns, or maroons, cut yellow soap
 into thin  slices, and pour water upon it to  moisten
 it.  Rub  the greasy and dirty  spots  of the  oat.
 Let it  dry a  little, and then brush  it with  warm
 water,  repeating, if necessary, as at first,  and use
 water a little hotter; rinse several times, in  warm
 water,  and finish as before.
        To scour carpets, hearth-rugs, &c.
   Rub a piece of soap on every spot of grease or
 dirt; then take a hard brush dipped in boiling wa-
 ter, and rub  the spots well.  If very dirty, a solu-
 tion of soap must be put into a tub, with hot water,
 and the carpet well beat in it, rinsing it.in several
 olean  waters,  putting  in  the  last water  a  table
 spoonful of oil of vitriol, to brighten the colours.
             To clean cotton gowns.
   Make a solution of soap, put in the articles, and
 wash them in the usual way.  If greens, reds, &c.
 run, add lemon juice, vinegar, or oil of vitriol, to
 the rinsing water.
              To clean scarlet cloth.
   Dissolve the best white soap; and if blaek-look-
 ing spots  appear, rub dry soap on them; while the
 other soap is dissolving; with  hot water, brush it
 off.  If very dirty, immerse the article into the
 warm solution, and rub the stained parts. Dispatch
 it quickly, and as soon as the colour begins to give,
 wring it out, and immerse it in a pan or pail of
 warm water; wring it again, and immerse it in cold
 spring  water, in which mix a table spoonful of so-
 lution of tin.  Stir it about, and in  ten minutes,
 hang it to dry  in the  shade, and cold press it.
   Another method.—On a  quarter of a peck of
 wheaten bran,  pour boiling water in a hair sieve.
 In the bran-water at a hand heat, immerse the cloth,
 and rub it, looking through it,  to see the spots. To
 a second liquor, add nearly a quarter of an ounce
 of white or crude tartar. If darkened, make a clean
 liquor of cold spring water with a drop or two of
 solution of tin, soak it in ten minutes, wring it, and
 hang it up to dry.
               To dip scarlet cloth.
   After it has  been thoroughly cleaned with  soap,
 and rinsed in warm water, put into boiling spring
 water, a quarter of a pound of young fustic, or zant,
 a drachm of pounded and sifted cochineal, and an
 equal quantity  of cream of tartar and cochineal;
 boil five or six minutes, and cool by adding a  pint
 or two of cold spring water, and a table spoonful
 of the solution  of tin.  Stir the mixture, put in the
 cloth, boil for ten minutes, apd when dry,  cold
 press it.
            To raise the nap on cloth.
   Soak in cold water for half an hour, then put on
 a board, and rub the thread-bare parts with a halfe
 worn hatter's  card, filled with flocks, or  with a
 nricklv thistle, until a nap is raised.   Hang  up to
 dry, and with a hard brush lay the  nap the  right
 way.
           To revive faded black cloth.
   Having cleaned it well, boil two or three ounces
«jllogwood for half an  hour. Dip it in warm wa-
 ter and  squeeze it dry, then put it into the copper,
and boil half an hour.  Take it out and add a small
piece of green copperas, and boil it another half
hour.   Hang it in the air for an hour or two, then
rinse it in two or three cold waters, dry it  and let
it be regularly brushed with a soft brush,  over
which a drop or two of oil of olives has been rub-
bed.
               To dry clean cloth.
   Dip a brush  in warm gall, and apply it to greasy
plaCes, rinse it off in cold water; dry by the fire,
then lay the coat flat, strew damp sand over it, and
with  a brush  beat the sand into the cloth;  then
brush it out with a hard brush,  and  th~ sand will
bring away the dirt.   Rub a drop of oil of olivei
over a soft brush, to brighten the colours.
     To breach wool, silks, straw bonnets, &c.
   Put a chafing  dish with some lighted charcoal
into a close room, or large box; then strew an ounce
or two of powdered brimstone  on the hot coals.
Hang the articles in the room  or box, make the
door fast, and let  them hang some  hours. Fine
coloured woollens are thus sulphured before dyed,
and straw bonnets are thus bleached.
         To take iron-moulds out of linen.
   Hold the iron mould on  the cover of a tankard
of boiling water, and rub on the spot a little juic»
of sorrel and salt, and when the cloth has thorough-
ly imbibed the juice, wash it in  ley.
             To make breeches-ball.
   Mix  1 pound of Bath brick, 2 pounds of pipe-
clay,  4 ounces of pumice  stone  powder, and  6
ounces  of ox gall; colour them with rose pink, yel-
low ochre, umber, Irish slate, &c. to any desired
shade.
                  Clothes' ball.
   Mix  two  pounds of pipe clay, 4 ounces  of ful
Ier's earth, 4 ounces of whiting,  and a quarter of 1
pint of ox galls.
      To take grease out of leather breeches.
   The white of an egg applied to the injured pan
and dried in the sun, will  effectually answer thi'
purpose.
   Another method.—To two table spoonsful of spi
rits of turpentine, put half an ounce of mealy pota-
toes, add some of the best Durham mustard,  witl
a little vinegar; let them dry, and when well rub
bed, the spots will be entirely removed.
To prepare a  chemical liquid for cleaning boot
                   tops, &c.
   Mix in a  phial, one drachm of oxymuriate  of
potass,  with two ounces of  distilled water; ant
when the salt is dissolved, add two ounces  of mu-
riatic acid.  Then shake well together, mix in an.
other phial three ounces of rectified spirit of win«
with half an ounce of the essential oil of  lemon
unite the contents of the two phials,  and keep the
liquid, thus prepared, closely corked for use. This
chemical liquid should be applied with  a clean
sponge, and dried in a gentle heat; after  which,
the boot-tops may be polished with a proper brush,
so as to appear like new leather.
   Another method.—Take of white vitriol, powder-
ed, 1  oz. acid of sugar, 1 oz. water, 1 quart.  Mix
together.
  Put a label on it, " Rank Poison."
  Sponge the tops with water first; then mix with
the liquid, and  then with water again.
       To cleanse feathers from animal oil.
  M>x well with a gallon of clear  water, a pound
of quicklime;  and, when the lime is precipitated
in.fine powder, pour off the clear lime-water  for
use, at,the time it is  wanted.   Put the feathers to
be cleaned in a tub, and add to them a sufficient
quanlhy of the clear lime-water,  so as to cover
them about three inches. The feathers, when tho-
roughly moistened,  will sink down, and  shoidd
remain  in the  lime-water for  three or four days;
after which, the foul  liquor should be  separated 
100
UNTVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
from them by laying them on a sieve.  Afterwards,
well wash them in  clean water, and dry them on
nets, about  the  same fineness  as  cabbage nets.
Shake them  from time to time on the nets; as they
dry, they will fall through the mashes, when col-
lect them for use.  The admission  of air will be
serviceable in the  drying, and  the  whole process
may be completed in about three weeks.  The
feathers, thus prepareJ, want nothing further than
beating, to be used either for beds, bolsters, pil-
lows, Sec.
                To clean leather.
   Take of French yellow ochre, 1 lb. sweet oil,  a
dessert spoonful.  Mix well together, so that  the
oil may not  be  seen: then take of pipe clay 1 lb.
starch a quarter of  a lb.  Mix with boiling water;
when cold, lay it on the leather.  When dry, rub
and brush it  well.
             To make scouring balls.
   Portable balls, for removing spots from clothes,
may be thus  prepared.  Fuller's earth  perfectly
dried, (so that it crumbles into a powder) is to be
moistened with the clear juice  of lemons,  and  a
small quantity of pure pearl-ashes is to be  added.
Knead the whole carefully together, till it acquires
the consistence of a thick r-lastic paste: form it into
convenient small balls, and  diy  them in the sun.
To be  used, first moisten the spot on the clothes
with water, then rub it with the ball, and let  the
spot dry in the sun; after having washed it with
pure water, the spot will entirely disappear.
                To clean marble.
   Take verdigris and pumice-stone, well powder-
ed, with lime newly slaked.  Mix with soap lees,
to the consistence of putty.  Put it in  a woollen
rag, and rub  the  stains well one way.   Wash off
with soap and water.   Repeat,  if not removed.
        To take  stains out of diver plate.
   Steep the plate in soap leys for the space of four
hours;  then cover it over with  whiting, wet with
vinegar, so that it may stick thick upon it, and dry
it by a fire; after which, rub off the whiting, and
pass it over with dry bran, and the  spots will  not
only disappear, but the plate will look exceedingly
bright.
          To make plate look like new.
   Take of unslaked lime and alum, a pound each,
of aqua-vita;  and vinegar, each a pint, and  of beer
grounds,  two quarts; boil the plate in these, and
they will set a beautiful gloss upon  it.
             To take out fnut spots.
   Let the spotted part of the cloth imbibe a little
water without dipping, and hold the part over a
lighted commrn brimstone match at a proper dis-
tance.  The sulphurous gas, which is discharged,
soon causes the spots to disappear.
        To clean gold lace and embroidery.
   For this purpose no alkaline  liquors  are to  be
used;  for while they clean  the gold they corrode
the silk, and change or discharge its colour.  Soap
also alters the shade,  and even  the  species of cer-
tain colours.   But spirit of wine may be used with-
out any danger of its injuring either colour or qua-
lity; and, in  many cases, proves as effectual for re-
storing the lustre of the gold, as the corrosive de-
tergents.   But, though  spirit  of wine is the most
innocent material employed for this purpose, it is
not in all eases proper.   The golden covering may
be in some parts worn off; or jthe base metal, with
which it has  been alloyed, may be corroded by the
air, so as to leave the particles of the gold disunit-
ed; while the silver underneath, tarnished to a yel-
low hue,  may continue a tolerable colour to the
whole; so it is apparent that the removal of the tar-
inish would be prejudicial,  and make the  lace  or
^embroidery less like gold tb *Ut it was hefove.
       To remove spots of grease from cloth.
   Spots of grease may be removed by a diluted so-
lution of potash, but this must be cautiously'appli-
ed, to prevent injury 1o the cloth.   Stains of white
wax,  which sometimes  fall upon  elothes  from
wax-candles, are removed by spirits of turpentine,
or sulphuric ether.   The marks of white paint may
also be discharged by the above mentioned agents.
           To take mildew out  of linen.
   Rub it well with soap:  then scrape some fine
chalk, and rub that also  in the  linen, lay it on the
grass; as it dries, wet it a little, and it will come
out after twice doing.
            To take out spzts of ink.
   As soon as the accident happens, wet the place
with juice of sorrel or lemon, or with vinegar, and
the best hard white  soap.
        To take out stains of cloth or silk.
   Pound French chalk fine, mix with lavender-wa
ter to the thickness of mustard.  Put on the stain;
rub it soft with the finger or palm of the hand.  Put
a sheet of blotting and brown paper on the top, and
smooth it with an iron milk-warm.
        To remove grease spots from paper.
   Let the paper stained with  grease,  wax, oil, or
any other fat body, be gently warmed, taking out
as much as possible of it, by blotting paper.   Dip
a small brush in the essential oil of well-rectified
spirits of turpentine, heated almost to ebullition
(for when cold it acts very weakly), and draw it
gently over both sides of the paper, which must be
carefully kept warm. Let this operation be repeat-
ed as many times as the  quantity of the  fat-body,
imbibed by the paper, or the thickness of the pa-
per, may render it necessary.   When the greasy
substance is removed, to restore the paper to its
former whiteness, dip another brush in highly rec-
tified spirit of  wine, and draw  it, in like  manner,
over the place; and  particularly around the edges,
to remove the  border that would  still present a
stain.   If the process has been  employed on a part
written on with common ink, or printed with prin
ter's ink, it will experience no alteration.
   Another  method.—Take  of  roche-alum  burnt,
and flour of brimstone, an  equal quantity of eachj
and reducing them to a fine powder, wet the paper
a little, put a small quantity of the powder upon
the place, and the spots will disappear.
   Another.—Scrape finely,  some pipe-clay,  (the
quantity will be easily determined on  making the
experiment) on this lay  the sneet or leaf, and cover
the  spot, in like manner, with the clay.   Cover
the whole with a sheet of paper, and apply, for a
few seconds, a heated ironing box, or any substi-
tute adopted by laundresses.  On using Indian rub-
ber, to remove the dust taken up by the grease, the
paper will be found restored to its original  white-
ness and opacity.   This simple method  has often
proved much  more  effectual than turpentine, and
was remarkably so,  in an instance, where the folio
of a ledger had exhibited the marks of candle grease
and the snuff, for more than  twelve months.
        To cleanse gloves without wetting.
   Lay the gloves upon a clean  board, make a mix-
ture of dried fulling-earth, and powdered alum, and
 pass them over on each side  with a common  stiff
 brush: then sweep it off, and sprinkle them  well
 with dry bran and whiting, and dust them well;
this, if they be not exceedingly greasy, will render
 them quite clean; but if they are much soiled take
i out the grease with crumbs  of toasted bread, and
! powder of burnt bone: then  pass them over with a
 woollen cloth dipped in fulling earth or alum pow-
 der: and in this manner they can be cleaned with-
 out wetting, which frequently shrinks and  spoils
{ them. 
BLEACHING AND SCOURING.
101
        Fullers* purifier for woollen cloths.
  Dry, pulverize, and sift the  following ingredi-
ents:—
  6 lbs. of fuller's earth,  1 lb.  of pipe clay, and 4
oz. of French chalk.
  Make a paste of the above with the following:—
  1 oz. of rectified oil of turpentine, 2 oz. of spi-
rit of wine, and 1^ lbs. of melted oil soap.
  Make up the compound into six-penny or shil-
ling cakes for sale.  These cakes are to be kept in
water, or in small wooden boxes.
           To clean all sorts of metal.
  Mix half a pint of refined neat's-foot oil, and half
a gill of spirits of turpentine.   Scrape a little ker-
nel or rotten stone; wet a woollen rag therewith, dip
it into the scraped kernel, and rub the metal well.
Wipe it off with  a soft cloth, polish with dry lea-
ther, and use more  cf the kernel.  In  respect to
steel, if it is very rusty, use a little powder of pu-
mice with the  liquid, on a separate woollen rag
first.
        To take stains out of mahogany.
  Mix 6 ounces of spirit of salts, and ^ an ounce of
rock salt of lemons (powdered) together.  Drop a
little on the stain, and rub it with a cork till it dis-
appear.  Wash off with cold  wate-.
  Another method.—Take 2 ounces of oil of vitriol,
and 1 ounce of muriatic acid, or spirit of salts.  Mix,
by shaking in a phial, and when to be used lay it
over the spotted  part by means  of a feather, or
woollen rag.   Afterwards wash the part over with
water, and polish as usual.
              To take out writing.
  When recently written, ink may be completely
removed by the oxymuriatic acid, (concentrated
and in solution).  The paper is to be washed over
repeatedly with the acid;  but it will  be necessary
afterwards to wash it with lime water, for the pur-
pose of neutralizing any acid  that may  be left on
the paper, and  which  would considerably weaken
it.   If tfie ink has been long written, it will  have
undergone such a change as to prevent the preced-
ing process acting.  It ought therefore to be wash-
ed  with liver of sulphur (sulphuret of ammonia)
before the oxymuriatic acid is applied.   It may be
washed with a  hair pencil.
       To restore whites in ancient pictures.
  Carbonate of lead, exposed for some time to hy-
dro-sulphuretted  vapours, will  become  black, be-
ing converted  to sulphuret.  This colour,  when
used with oil, and covered with a varnish which
defends it from the  immediate contact  of the air,
may be preserved for several ages, as is proved by
the paintings of the fifteenth  century.  But when
nothing protects it from the  sulphurous vapours
floating in the atmosphere, as  is the case in distem.-,
per colours, this substance should be avoided, if a
permanent colour is intended.
  Among the numerous properties whi h belong to
the oxygenated  water  discovered by M. Thenard,
one is, instantly to change the black of sulphuret
of lead to white.  A bottle of weakly oxygenated
water, containing not more than 5 or 6 volumes of
oxygen, and quite tasteless, being applied  to the
black spots with a few dips of the brush, they have
disappeared as  if by enchantment.   The ground
being coloured by a light tint of bistre, was not, in
the slightest degree, altered, and the painting has
been completely restored, without the addition of
a single touch, to the original design.
    To restore hangings, carpets, chairs, &c.
  Beat the dust out of them as  clean as possible,
then rub them over with a dry brush, and make a
 food lather of Castille  soap, and rub them well
 ver with a hard brush, then take clean water and
with it wash off the froth, make a water with alum,
and wash them over with it, and when dry, most of
the colours will be restored in  a  short time; and
those that are yet too  faint, must be touched up
with a pencil dipped in suitable colours: it may be
run all over in the same manner with water colours
mixed well with gum water, and it  will look at a
distance  like new.
            To clean paper hangings.
  Cut into eight half quarters a stale quartern loaf:
with one of these pieces, after having blown off all
the dust  from the paper to be cleaned by means of
a good  pair of  bellows,  begin at  the top of the
room, holding the crust in the  hand, and wiping
lightly downward with the crumb, about half a
yard at each stroke, till the upper part of the hang-
ings is completely cleaned all round; then go again
round with  the  like sweeping  stroke downward,
always commencing each successive course  a little
higher than  the  upper stroke had  extended, till
the bottom be finished.  This operation, if care-
fully performed,  will  frequently make  very old
paper look almost equal to new.   Great caution
must be  used not by any means to rub the paper
hard,  nor to attempt cleaning it the cross or hori-
zontal way.   The dirty part of .he bread  too must
oe each time cut away, and the pieces renewed  as
soon as at all necessary.
CEMENTS.
     To make an improved bmlding cement.
  This method  consists in the employment of cer-
tain burnt or vitrified earths, and metallic and other
substances, which are pounded or ground to pow-
der, and mixed with lime.
  The earthy substances used, are all those kinds
of clay or loam that are capable of becoming vitri-
fied and intensely hard, by exposure to a strong
fire;  chalk, and such earths as become soft and fall
to pieces, when exposed to heat,  are unfit  for the
purpose; but flint stores and pebbles may be used
with advantage.
  The proper kinds of earth being thus selected,
the material  is heated in the interior of a brick-
kiln, or furnace, until it becomes completely vitri-
fied or reduced to a state of hard, black, or glossy
clay, and this vitrification will sometimes  be  im-
proved, by mixing refuse or broken glass, or sand
and wood-ashes, with sand or vitrified materials:,
such as  those which come from the furnaces ot
smelting-houses, glass-houses, foundries,  &c. or
any materials reduced to  a state of vitrification by
intense heat.   These  materials  are  then  to be
bruised, pounded, or ground, and sifted through a
wire sieve, until reduced  to such  a state of  fine-
ness as may be proper for mixing up as  a plaster. 
102
UNIVERSAL RECE11 T BOOK.
Thus prepared, the materials are to be sorted into
different qualities, and put up for use.
  Manner of using it.—The manner of using this
material, is by  mixing it with well-burnt lime in-
stead of the sand usually employed  in the compo-
si*ion of stucco or cement, to Which  water must be
added,  until a proper consistency is obtained.
This artificial  Puzzolene may be  mixed  with
quick lime, completely pulverized, and put into
casks for use; it is, however, necessary to keep it
from moisture,  or exposure to the open air.  The
proportion of quick-lime to be added to the above
materials,  depends entirely upon the  strength of
the lime: in general,  one measure  of good lime
will be  sufficient for from three to five measures of
the material.
  Another part  of the improvement  consists in
the introduction of various coloured bricks, which,
highly burnt or vitrified,  and reduced  to powder,
are to be mixed up with the artificial  Puzzolene,
in order to produce spots or streaks, in imitation
of marble and other variegated stone.
           To make Hamelin's cement.         g
  This  cement  consists in a mixture of earths and
other substances  that  are insoluble in water, or
nearly so, either in their natural state, or such as
have been manufactured, as earthen-ware, porce-
lain, and such like substances; but Mr H. prefers
those earths that, either in their natural or manu-
factured state  are the least soluble in water, and
have, when pulverized or reduced to powder, the
least  colour.   To the earth or earths, as before
named,  either  in their natural or manufactured
state, and so pulverized, he adds a quantity of each
of the oxyds of  lead,  as litharge, grey oxyd, and
minium, reduced or ground to a fine powder, and
tothe whole of the above-named substances, a quan-
tity of pulverized glass or flint-stone.  These vari-
ous earths, oxyds,'and glass or flint-stone, reduced
to a pulverized  state, in proper and due proportion,
and being mixed with a proper and due proportion
of vegetable oil, form and make  a composition or
cement, which,  by contact or exposure to the at-
mosphere,  hardens and forms an impenetrable and
impervious coating or covering,  resembling Port-
land or other stones.
  To any  given weight of the earth or earths,
commonly  called pit-sand, river-sand, rock-sand,
or any other sand of the same  or the like nature,
or pulverized earthen-ware or porcelain, add two
thirds of such given weight of the earth or earths,
commonly  Called Portland-stone, Bath-stone, or
any other stone, of the same or the like nature,
pulverized.   To  every  five  hundred and  sixty
pounds  weight  of these  earths, so prepared, add
forty pounds weight of litharge, and, with the last
mentioned  given weights, combine two  pounds
weight  of pulverized glass or flint-stone.  Then
join to this mixture one pound weight  of minium
and two pounds weight of grey oxyd of lead.
  This  composition  being thus mixed, pass  the
same through  a wire sieve,  or  dressing machine,
of such  a fineness or mash as may be requisite for
the purpose it is intended for, preferring a fine
sieve, mash, or wire-work, when Che composition
is to be used for works that require a fine smooth
or even  surface.  It is now a fine and dry powder,
and may be kept  open in bulk or in casks for any
length of time,  without deterioration.
  When this composition is intended to be made
into cement, for any of the-purposes described, it
is spread upon  a board or platform,  or mixed in a
trough: and to  every six  hundred and five pounds
weight of the composition,  are  added five gallons
of vegetable oil, aslinseed-oil, walnut-oil, orpink-
sil.   The composition is then mixed in a similar
way to that of mortar,  and is afterwards subjected
 to a gentle pressure, by treading upon it:  and this
 operation is continued until it acquires the appear-
 ance of moistened sand.  The mixture, being thus
 composed, is a cement fit and applicable  to the
 enumerated purposes.   It is requisite to observe,
 that this cement should be used the same day the
 oil is added, otherwise it will fix or set into a solid
 substance.
             To apply it to braidings.
    When the cement is  applied for the purpose of
 covering buildings intended to resemble stone, the
 surface of the  building is washed with oil.   The
 cement is then applied of the thickness of an inch,
 or any greater thickness, according  to the nature
 of the work, joint, or stone, it  is intended to re-
 semble.  It is  requisite to observe, that when a
 joint,  intended to resemble a plain stone joint, is
 to be made upon the surface of the cement or com-
 position, the cement must be partly set or harden-
 ed previously to the impression of the joint upon
 its  surface, and the joint  is made by a rule and
 steel jointer.   When the cement is used for the
 covering of substances less absorbent than bricks
 or tiles, (as wood, lead, iron, or tin,) a much less
 quantity of boiled linseed oil in preparing the sur-
 faces is required.
            To  make cement for floors.
   Earthen-floors are commonly made of loam, and
 sometimes, especially to make malt on, of  lirae
 and brook sand, and gun dust or anvil dust from
 the forge.  The manner of making earthen-floors
 for plain  country habitations is as  follows:  take
 two-thirds of lime, and one cf coal-ashes  well
 sifted,  with a small  quantity of loam clay,  mix the
 whole  together, and temper it well  with  water,
 making it up into a heap;  let it lie a week or ten
 days, and then temper it over again.   After this,
 heap it up for three  or four days, and repeat the
 tempering  very high,  till  it  becomes  smooth,
 yielding,  tough,  and gluey.  The ground being
 then levelled, lay the floor therewith about 2 1-2
 or three  inches thick, making it smooth with a
 trowel: the hotter the season is, the better; and
 when it is thoroughly dried, it will  make the best
i floor for  houses,  especially malt-houses.   If any
 one would have their floors look better, let them
 take lime of rag-stones, well tempered with whites
 of eggs, coverii.g the floor about half an inch thick
 with it, before the under flooring is' too dry. If
 this be well done, and  thoroughly  dried, it will
 look, when rubbed with a little oil,  as transparent
 as metal or glass.  In elegant houses, floors of this
 nature are made of  stuccd,  or of plaster of Paris
 beaten  and sifted, and mixed with other ingredients.
     Pew's composition for covering biuldings.
   Take the hardest  and purest limestone (white
 marble is to be  preferred) free from sand clay, or
 other matter; calcine it in a reverberatory furnace,
 pulverize and pass it through a sieve.  One part,
 by weight,  is to be  mixed with two parts of clay
 well baked and similarly pulverized,  conducting
 the whole operation with great care.  This forms
 the first powder.  The second is to be made of one
 part of calcined and pulverized gypsum, to which
 is added two parts of clay, baked and pulverized.
 These  two powders are to be combined, and inti-
 mately incorporated, so  as to form a perfect mix-
 ture.   When it is to be  used,  mix it with about a
 fourth  part of its weight of water, added gradually,
 stirring the mass wjil  the whole  time, until it
 forms  a  thick  paste, in  which  state it is  to he
 spread like mortar upon the desired  surface.  It
 becomes  in time as hard as stone,  allows no mois-
 ture to penetrate,  and  is  not  cracked by  heat.
 When  well prepared it will last any length of time.
 When  in its plastic or soft state, it may be colour-
 ed of any desired lint. 
CEMENTS.
103
           To make cement for canals.
  Take one part of iron filings,  reduced to sifted
powder, three parts of silica, four parts of alumine
combined with oxide of iron—the same quantity of
pulverized brick, and two parts  of hot lime; the
whole measured by weight and not by bulk.
  Put the mixture into a large wooden tub, in or-
der that nothing foreign may be introduced into it.
If sufficient water is poured out to extinguish the
lime and give a degree ofliquidnesslo the cement,
and if all the component parts are briskly stirred,
a great v.egree of heat will be emitted from the
lime, and an intimate union formed by the heat.
     Note on preparing hydraulic cements.
  It has been  satisfactorily ascertained that  " the
access of  air during the calcination of the argilla-
ceous cements, is of great consequence to the te-
nacity of the mortar aud the quickness with which
it hardens."   The clay for the best hydraulic ce-
ment, shoidd contain a little lime, be calcined un-
der exposure to a current of  air, and after being
well pulverized,  be mixed with a paste of lime in
the proportion of one of the  latter to two or two
and a half of the former.
           To make Parker's cement.
  This cement is made of very  argillaceous lime-
stones, which are burnt in conical kilns,  with a
continued fire  of pit-coal, in the same  manner as
other limestones; but ii the heat be so great as to
cause a commencement of fusion in the cement,  it
will be totally spoiled.  It is reduced to an impal-
pable powder by grinding as soon as it is burnt,
and is sent away  in barrels well  closed.
  The above  is much used in London for facing
houses, and for the foundation of large edifices. It
requires  much practice in the workmen who use
it; for if not tempered  to the  proper consistence,
and immediately applied,  it  solidifies  unequally,
cracks, and adheres badly.  It is recommended to
be  mixed with fine angular sand well washed, in
the proportion of two parts to three of cement, for
foundations and cornices exposed to rain; from 3,
4, and 5 parts to 3 of cement for common mortars:
from three parts to two of cement for coating walls
exposed  to cold, and five parts to two of  cement
for walls exposed to dryness or heat.
      Cement for rock-work and reservoirs.
  Where a great quantity of cement  is wanted for
coarser uses, the coal-ash mortar (or Welsh tarras)
is the cheapest and best, and  will hold extremely
well, not only where it is constantly kept wet or
dry, but even  where  it is  sometimes dry  and at
others wet; but where it is liable to be exposed to
wet and frost,  this cement should, at  its being laid
on, be suffered to diy thoroughly before any mois-
ture has access to it; and, in that case, it will like-
wise be a great improvement to temper it with the
blood of any beast.
  The mertar must be formed of one part lime
and two parts  of well-sifted coal-ashes, and they
must be  thoroughly  mixed  by being beaten to-
gether; for on the perfect commixture of  the in-
gredients the goodness of the composition depends.
                To make mortar.
  Mortar is composed of quick-lime and sand, re-
duced to a paste  with  water.  The lime ought to
be pure, completely free from carbonic  acid, and
in the state of a very fine powder; the sand should
be free from clay, partly in the state of fine sand,
and partly in that of gravel: the water should be
pure; and if previously  saturated with lime, so
much the better.  The best proportions are three
parts of  fine,  and four parts  of  coarse sand, one
part of quick-lime,  recently slacked, and as little
water as possible.
  The addition of burnt bones improve mortar by
-ivin" it tenacity, and render it less apt to crack
in drying; but they ought  never to exceed one-
fourth of the lime employed.
  When a little manganese is added to mortar, it
acquires the important property of hardening un-
der water; so  that  it may be employed in con-
structing those edifices  which are constantly ex-
posed to the action of water.  Limestone  is often
combined with manganese:  in that case it becomes
brown by calcination.
               Tunisian cement.
  This is composed of three parts of lime, one ot'
sand, end two  of wood-ashes: these ingredients are
mixed up with oil and water alternately, till they
compose a paste of the desired consistency.
                 Dutch terras.
  This  is composed of basalt ground to a fine pow-
der, and blue argillaceous lime, mixed up with wa-
ter,  and well beaten together.
                Tournay cement
  Is a mixture of co;d ashes, with blue argillo-fer-
ruginous lime and  sand, well beaten up with wa-
ter,  left to dry,  repeatedly levigated, moistened,
and beaten.
                Roman cement.
  A sort of plaster so called, which well withstandi
our soft climate,  is made  by  mixing a bushel ot
lime slaked, with three pounds and a half of green
copperas, 15 gallons of water, and half a bushel of
fine  gravel  sand.  The  copperas should  be  dis-
solved in hot water; it must be stirred with a stick,
and kept stirring continually while  in use.  Care
should be taken to mix at once as much as may be
requisite for one entire front,  as it is very difficult
to match the colour again; and it ought to be mix-
ed the same day it is used.
            Genuine Roman cement.
  This consists of the pulvis Puteolanvs, or puz-
zolene,  a ferruginous clay from  Puteoli  calcined
by the fires of Vesuvius,  lime, and sand, mixed up
with soft water.  The only preparation which the
puzzolene undergoes is  that of pounding and sift-
ing; but the ingredients  are occasionally mixed up
with bullock's  blood, and fat  of animals, to give
the composition more tenacity.
         - Maltha,  or Greek mastich.
  This is a more simple composition than the ce-
ment of the Romans, when used for stucco on the
outsides of fabrics, consisting only  of lime  and
sand, but rendered into a paste with milk, or size.
                Indian cement.
  This  is on|y a variation of the mastich, and is
composed of equal quantities of flint, lime, and
pit sand, slaked with water, well beaten,  and suf-
fered to remain for three or four days, then moist-
ened and mixed up  with oil, mucilage, whites of
eggs, and butter milk, and applied, as rapidly as
possible, after being mixed.
        . To make impenetrable mortar.
  Mix thoroughly one-fourth of the fresh unslak-
ed lime with three-fourths of sand; and let five la-
bourers make mortar of these ingredients,  by pour-
ing ou water, with trowels, to supply one mason,
who must, when the materials are sufficiently mix-
ed, apply it instantly as  cement or plaster,  and it
will become as hard as stone.  The lime  used
should be stone-lime; previous to its use, it should
be preserved from the access of air or wet, and the
plaster screened for some  time from the sun and
wind.
            To make Wych's stucco.
  Take four or five bushels of such plaster as is
commonly  burnt  for floors about Nottingham (or
a similar quantity of any tarras, plaster, or calcin-
ed gypsum); beat it to fine  powder,  then  sift  and
put it into a trough, and  mix with it one bushel of
pure coal ashes,  well calcined.  Pour on the  wa-
ter, till the whole beeomes good  mortar.  Lay this 
104
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
in wooJen frames of twelve feet in length on the
walls, well smoothed  with common  mortar aud
dry,  the thickness of two inches at each side, and
three inches in the middle.  When the frame is
moved to proceed with the work, leave an  interval
of two inches for this coping to extend itself, so as
to meet the last frame  work.
           To make Williams's stucco.
  Take sharp, rough,  large-grained sand, sifted,
washed, dried, and freed from all impurities, 84
pounds;  well burnt lime,  slaked and finely si.ted,
12 pounds; curd, or cheese, produced from milk,
4  pounds;  (the first,  fresh made,  and strongly
pressed, to divest it of its whey; the second, whilst
perfectly sound, rasped into powder with a grater,
or brought in; j  a  very light substance with scra-
 fiers,  or fine-toothed  plane-irons,  in a turner's
 athe); and lastly,  water  in its  natural state, 10
pounds.  If the sand is not thoroughly  dried, or
the lime has got damp from the air,  the quantity
of water must  be  less than the above proportion;
and, on the contraiy,  when the  lime is used im-
mediately, it may  require more;  so that the pro-
per stiffness of  the  mortar,  under those circum-
stances, will regulate  the making of the  compo-
sition.
                 Iron cement.
  This is formed of the borings of cast iron guns
or turnings of cast  iron which should be clean and
free from rust until used.   By slight pounding or
triturating they are broken but not powdered, and
then coarsely sifted.   At the time  of using, they
are to be mixed with powdered sal ammoniac and
sulphur, and slightly moistened with  water; when
the composition must be rammed or  caulked into
the joints with  a blunt  caulking chisel and ham-
mer,  and the Joint screwed  up  by  its bolts as
tightly as possible.
  No more of 'his  cement must be made than can
be used at one time, because it soon spoils; but if
good, it will become as hard as the iron itself in a
few days: 2 ounces of sal ammoniac,  and 1 ounce
of sulphur is sufficient for 5 pounds of iron borings.
                Water cement.
  A cement may be made with common lime, that
will  harden under water.  What is called poor
lime has this peculiar property; but as this species
of limestone rarely occurs, it is often an expensive
article.   The following is a good substitute, and
may be used for water cisterns, aqueducts, &c.
Mix four parts ot grey clay,  six of the, black oxide
of manganese, and  ninety of good limestone re-
duced to fine  powder; then calcine  the whole to
expel the carbonic acid.  When this mixture has
been well calcined and  cooled,  it is to be worked
into the consistence ofa soft paste with sixty parts
of washed  sand.   If a lump  of  this cement  be
thrown into water, it  will  harden immediately.
Such  mortar, however,  may be procured at a still
less expense, by mixing with common qu'ck lime
a certain  quantity of what are called the white iron
ores,  especially such as are poor in iron.  These
ores are chiefly composed of manganese and car-
bonate of lime, or chalk.  Common lime and sand
only,  whatever may be the  proportion of the mix-
ture,  will certainly become soft under water.
            Water cement or stucco.
  Take 56 pounds  of pure  coarse sand, 42 pounds
of pure fine sand; mix them together, and moisten
thein  thoroughly with lime  water; to the wetted
sand,  add 14 pounds of pure  fresh burnt lime, and
while beating them up together, add, in successive
portions, 14 pounds of  bone ash: the quicker and i
more  perfectly these materials are beaten together,
and the sooner they are used the better will be the
cement; for some  kinds of  work it will be better
to use fine sancTalone, and  for others, coarse sand;
 remembering the finer the  sand is,  the greater
 quantity of lime is to be employed.
      To make afire and water proof cement.
   To half a pint of vinegar, add the same quantity
 of milk; separate the curd, and mix the whey with
 the whites of five eggs; beat  it well together,  and
 sift into it a sufficient quantity  of quick  lime, to
 convert it to the consistency ot a thick paste. Bro-
 ken vessels, mended with this cement,  never after-
 wards separate, for it resists the action of both fire
 and water.
   Turkish cement for joining metals, glass, &c.
   Dissolve mastich in as much spirit of wine as
 will suffice to render it liquid;  in another vessel
 dissolve as much isinglass (which has been pre-
 viously soaked in water till it is swollen and soft)
 in brandy as will make two ounces by measure of
 strong glue, and add two small  bits of  gum galba-
 num, or ammoniacum,  which must be rubbed or
 ground till they are dissolved; then mix the whole
 with a sufficient heat: keep it in a phial stopt, and
 when it is to be used set it in hot water.
           Yates's water proof cement.
   Take of the best glue tour ounces,  of isinglass
 two ounces, and dissolve them in mild ale over a
 slow fire, in a common glue kettle, to the consis-
 tence of strong glue, when one ounce and a half of
 well  boiled linseed  oil  mist be gradually added,
 and the whole be  well mixed by stirring.   When
 cold and made into cakes, it resembles Indian rub-
 ber.  When wanted for use dissolve a piece of it
 in a proportionate quantity of ale. This cement
 is applicable to all joints of wood,  to join earthen-
 ware, china,  glass.   It  is an  excellent cement for
 leather,  for  harness,  bands  for  machinery, ha.
 The joints of these are to be prepared as if for sew-
 ing, the cement to be applied hot,  laying a weight
 upon each joint as  it  is made,  in which state it is
 to be left six  hours, when the joints will be found
 nearly as firm as if they were of an entire piece.
 By adding a little tow to the above, you  have an
 excellent cement for leaks in casks, &cc. &c.
 Common cement for joining alabaster, marble, por-
            phyry, and other stones.
  Take of bees'  wax, 2 pounds, and of resin, 1
 pound.   Melt them,  and add  1  pound  and a half
 of the same kind of matter, powdered, as the body
 to be cemented is composed of,  strewing  it into
 the melted mixture, and starring them well toge-
 thor, and afterwards kneading the mass in water,
 tbat the powder may be thoroughly incorporated
 with the wax and  resin.  The  proportion of the
 powdered matter may be varied, where required,
 in order to bring the cement nearer to the colour
 of the body on which it is employed.
  This  cement must be healed  when applied, as
 also the parts of the subject to be cemented toge-
 ther, and care must be taken, likewise,  that they
 may be  thoroughly dry.
                To  make lutes.
  These are used  for securing the juncture of ves-
 sels, in  distillations  and sublimations.  For  the
 distillation of water,  linen dipped in a thin paste
of flour and water is sufficient.  A lute of greater
security is composed of quick-lime, made into a
paste with the whites of eggs. I or the security of
very corrosive vapours,  clay finely powdered and
sifted, made into a paste with boiled linseed oil,
must be applied to the juncture; which must  be
afterwards covered with slips of linen, dipped in
the paste of quick-lime, and  the whites of eggs.
The lute must be perfectly dried before the vessels
are used, or ejse the heat may cause it  to  dry too
quick, and thereby cause the lute to crack.  If this
 be the case, it is repaired by applying fresh lute in
 the cracks, and suffering it to dry gradually.  Vessels
which are to  be  exposed to the  naked fire, are 
CEME
frequently coated to resist the effects  of the heat,
the best coating for which purpose consists in dis-
solving 2 ounces ot borax in a pint of boiling water,
and adding to the solutioii as much slaked lime as
is necessary to form a thin paste.  The vessel must
be covered all over with it by means ofa painter's
brush, and then suffered to dry.  It must then be
•covered with a thin paste  of linseed oil and slaked
lime, except the neck.   In  two  or three days it
will diy of itself, and the  retort will then bear the
greatest fire without cracking.  The cracks of che-
mical vessels may be secured by the second lute.
        Cement for iron culinary  utensils.
   To 6 parts of yellow potter's clay, add 1 part of
steel filings, and a sufficient quantity of oil. Make
the paste of the consistence of glazier's putty.
            'to make turner's cement.
   The following is  a very excellent cement for the
use of turners and artizans in general:  16 parts of
whiting are to  be finely powdered and heated to
redness, to drive off ah the water.  When cold, it
is to be mixed with 16 parts of black resin, and 1
part of bees'-wax, the latter having been previously
melted together, and the  whole stirred till  of an
uniform  consistence.
      Cement for joining broken glasses, &c.
  Take two ounces of good glue,  and steep it for a
night in distilled vinegar; boil them together the
next day, and having broken a clove of garlic with
half an ounce of ox-gall, into a soft pulp, strain the
juice through  a  linen  cloth, using pressure, and
add to it the glue and vinegar.  Then take of san-
darac powdered, and turpentine, each one drachm,
and of sarcocol and  mastic powdered, each half a
drachm; put them  into a  bottle with an ounce of
highly rectified spirit of  wine.   Stop  the  bottle,
and let the mixture stand  for  three hours iu a gin-
tie heat,  frequently  shaking it.  Mix this vincture
also with the glue while hot, and stir them well to-
gether with a stick, till part of the mixture be eva-
porated, and then take the composition from the
fire, and it will be fit for use.   When this cement
is to be applied it must  be dipped in vinegar, and
then melted in a proper vessel, with a gentle  heat;
and if stones  are to be cemented, mix with it a
little powdered chalk, or  if glass is to  be conjoin-
ed, powdered glass  should be substituted.
     A strong cement for electrical purposes.
  Melt one pound of resin in a pot or pan, over a
slow fire; add thereto as much plaister of Paris, in
fine powder, as will make it hard enough; then add
a spoonful of linseed oil, stirring it all the while,
and try if it be hard and tough enough for the pur-
pose; if it is not sufficiently hard, add more plaster
of Paris; and if not tough enough, a  little more
linseed  oil.   This is as good a cement as possible
for fixing the necks of globes or cylinders, or any
thing else that requires to be strongly fixed;  for it
is not easily melted again  when cold.
          A cement Jor glass-grinders.
   Take  pitch and boil  it; add thereto, and keep
stirring it  all the  while,  fine sifted wood ashes,
until it is of a proper temper: a  little  tallow may
be added, as found necessary.  For small works, to
fou.- ounces of resin add one-fourth of an ounce of
bees'-wax  melted together;  and four ounces of
whitening, made previously red hot.  The whiten-
ing should be  put  in while  hot, that  it may not
have time to imbibe moisture from the atmosphere.
   Another.—Shell-lac is a very strong cement for
holding  metals, glass, or precious stones, while
cutting,  turning, or grinding them.  The metal,
i!tc. should be warmed,  to melt it.  For fastening
ruby  cylinders in watches,  and similar delicate
purposes, shell-lac is excellent.
         J o solder or cement broken glass.
   Broken glass may be soldered or cemented in
1NTS.                                     105

 such a manner as to be as strong as ever, by inter-
 posing between the parts glass ground mi like a
 pigment, but of easier fusion than the pieces to i.e
 joined, and  then exposing them to such a heat as
 will fuse the cementing ingredient, and make the
 pieces agglutinate without being themselves fused.
 A glass for the purpose of cementing broken pieces
 of flint glass, may be made by fusing some of the
 same kind of glass previously reduced to  powder,
 along with a little red lead and borax, or  with the
 borax only.
   Cement for Derbyshire spur and other stones.
  A cement  for  this purpose may be made with
 about seven or eight parts of resin and one  of bees'-
 wax, melted together with a small quantity of plas-
 ter of Paris.   If it is wished to make the cement
 fill up the place of any small chips that may have
 been lost, the quantity of plaster must be increased
 a little.   When  the  ingredients  are well mixed,
 and the whole is nearly cold, the mass should be
 well kneaded together.   The pieces of spar that
 are to be joined, must be heated until they will
 melt the cement, and then pressed together, some
 ol the cement being previously interposed. Melted
 sulphur applied to fragments of stones  previously
 heated (by placing them  before a  fire)  to at least
 the melting point of sulphur, and then joined with
 the sulphur between, makes a pretty firm and du-
 rable joining.  Little deficiencies  in the stone, as
 chips out of corners, &c.  may be also filled up with
 melted sulphur, in which some of the powder of
 the stone has been melted.
 A cement that will stand against boiling water ana
              the pressure of steam.
  Boiled linseed oil, litharge, and  red and white
 lead, mixed  together to a proper consistence, and
 applied on each side of a piece of flannel previous-
 ly s.iaped to  fit the joint, and then interposed be-
 tween the pieces before they are brought home (as
 the workmen term it) to their places by the screws
 or other fastenings employed, makes a close and
 durable joint.  The  quantities of the ingredients
 may be varied without inconvenience, only taking
 care not to make the mass too thin with oil.  It is
 difficult in many cases instantly to make a good
 fitting of large pieces of iron-work, which render*
 it necessary  sometimes  to join and separate the
 pieces  repeatedly,  before a proper adjustment is
 obtained.  When this is  expected, the  white lead
 ought to predominate in  the  mixture, as it  dries
 much slower than the red.
  This cement answers well also for joining bro-
 ken stones, however large. Cisterns built of square
 stones put together with this cement,  will nevei
 leak, or want any repairs.  In this case the  stones
 need not be entirely bedded in it: an inch, or even
 less, of the edges that are  to lie  next the water,
 need only be so treated; the rest of the joint may
 be filled with good lime.
           Cement for steam-engines.
  Take two ounces of sal ammoniac, one ounce of
 flowers of sulphur, and sixteen ounces of cast-iron
 filings or borings, mix all well together by rubbing
 them in a mortar, and keep the powder dry,
  When wanted for use, take one part of the above
 powder and twenty parts  of clean  iron  borings or
 filings, and mix them intimately by grinding them
 in a mortar.  Wet the compound with  water, and
 when brought to a convenient consistence,  apply it
 to the joints with a wooden or blunt iron spatula.
       Another cement for similar purposes.
  Take  two  parts  of flowers of sulphur  and one
 part of sal ammoniac, and mix them together with
 a little water into a stiff paste.
  Take also  borings or   turnings of cast-iron as
 they are found in manufactories, viz. mixed with
 sand, and sift them finely  to get rid of the grosseif 
106
UNIVERSAL
RECEIPT BOOK.
particles.   When  the cement  is wanted  for use
dissolve a portion of the  above  paste in urine, or
slightly acidulated water, and to the solution add
a quantity of the sifted borings, and apply as above,
and in a short time it will become as hard as stone.
         Blood cement for coppenmilhs.
  A cement often used by coppersmiths to lay over
the rivets and edges of the sheets of copper in large
boilers, to  serve as an additional security to ths
joinings, and to secure cocks, &c. from leaking,
is made by mixing pounded quick-lime with ox's
blood.  It must be applied fresh made, as it soon
gets hard.  If the  properties of this cement were
duly investigated, it would probably be found use-
ful for many purposes to which it  has never yet
been applied.  It is extremely cheap, and very du-
rable.
             Entomologist's cement.
  To a solution of gum ammoniac in proof spirit,
»dd the best isinglass, and unite them with a gen-
tle heat.  The great value of this cement consists
in the readiness with which it melts, and the little
tendency it has  to be affected by moisture.   It is |
          To Jit up a small brewhouse.
  Provide a copper holding full two-thirds of the
quantity proposed to be brewed, with a guage .stick
co determine the number of gallons in the copper.
A mash tub, or tun, adapted to contain two-thirds
of the quantity proposed to be brewed, and one or
two tuns of equal size to ferment the wort.  Three
or four shallow coolers;  one or two wooden bowls;
a thermometer; half a  doz^n casks of different
sizes; a large funnel; two or three clean pails, and
a hand pump; the whole costing from ten to twen-
ty pounds.
  This proceeds on the supposition of two mashes
for ale; but if only one  mash is  adapted for  ale,
with a view of making  the table beer better, then
the  copper and mash tun should hold one-third
more than the quantity to be brewed.
  The expenses of brewing depend on the price of
malt and hops, and on the proposed strength of the
article.  One quarter of good malt, and eight pounds
of good hops, pught to make two barrels of good
ale and one of table beer.   The other expenses con-
sist of coals and labour.
  Of public breweries, and their extensive utensils
and machinery, we affect to give no description,
because books are not likely to be resorted to by
the  class of persons engaged in those extensive ma-
nufactories for  information relative to their own
particular business."
          To clurise water for brewing.
  Soft water, or hard water softened by exposure
to the air, is generally preferred, because it makes
a stronger extract, and is more inclined to ferment;
DUt hard water is better  for keeping beer, and  is
less liable to lurn sour.  Some persons soften hard
water by throwing a spoonful of soda into a barrel,
and  others do  it with  a har.dful  of common salt
mixed with an ounce of salt of tartar.
                 To make malt.
  Put about 6 quarters of good barley, newly thresh-
ed, &c. foto a stone trough full of water, and let it
  generally employed by entomologists in rejoining
,  the dislocated parts of insects, for which it is very
  convenient.
                Microscope cement.
    Put into a bottle two parts of isinglass and one
  part of the best gum arabic, cover them with proof
  spirit, cork the bottle loosely, and place it in a ves-
  sel of water, and  boil it till a thorough solution is
  effected, when it  must be  strained for  use.  This
  is a  highly valuable cement, for many purposes,
  and  is used for mounting opaque objects for the
  microscope.
          Japanese cement, or rice glue.
    This elegant cement is made by mixing rice-
  flour intimately with  cold water, and then gently
  boiling it:  it is beautifully white, and dries almost
  transparent.   Papers  pasted together by means of
  this cement will sooner separate in their own sub-
  stance than at the joining, which  makes it use-
  ful in the preparation of eurious paper  articles, as
  tea-trays, ladies' dressing boxes, and other articles
  that require layers of paper to he cemented toge-
  ther.
steep till the water be of a bright reddish colour,
which will be in about three days, more or less, ac-
cording to the moisture or dryness, smallness or
bigness of the grain, the season of the year, or the
temperature of the weather. In summer malt never
makes well; in winter it requires longer steeping
than in spring or autumn.  It may be known when
steeped enough, by other marks besides the colour
of the water; as by the excessive swelling of the
grain, if- it he oversteeped, and by too much  soft-
ness, being, when it is in  a right "temper,  like the
barley prepared to make broth.  When sufficiently
steeped, take it out of the trough, and lay it in heaps
to let the water drain from  it, then, after two or
three hours, turn it over with a scoop, and lay it in
a new heap, 20 or 24 inches deep.   This is called
the coming heap, in the right management of which
lies the principal skill.  In this heap it may lie 40
hours more or less, according to the forementioned
qualities of  the grain, &c. before it comes to the
right temper of malt.   While it lies, it must be
carefully looked to after the  first 15  or  16 hours;
for about that time the grains begin to put forth
roots; which, when they  have equally  and fully
done, the malt must, within an hour after,  be turn-
ed over with a scoop;  otherwise the grains will be-
gin to put forth the blade and spire also, which
must by all means  be  prevented.  If all the  malt
do not come equally, but that which lies in the
middle, being warmest, come the soonest, the whole
must be turned^ so that what was outmost  may be
inmost; and thus it is managed till it be all alike.
As soon as the malt is sufficiently  come, turn it
over, and spread it to a depth not exceeding 5 or 6.
inches; and by the time it is all spread out, begin
and turn it over again 3 or 4 times.   Afterwards
turn  it  over  in  like manner  once in  4 or £
hours, making the heap deeper by  degrees; and
continue to do so for the space of 48 hours at least.
This cools, dries, and deadens the grain, so that
it becomes mellow, melts easily in  brewing, aud
BREWING. 
BREWING.
107
 separates entirely from the husk.  Then throw up
 the malt into a heap as high as possible,  where let
 it lie till it grow as hot  as the hand can bear it,
 which usually  happens in about the space  of 30
 hours. This perfects the sweetness and mellowness
 of the malt.   After being sufficiently heated,  throw
 it abroad to cool, and turn it over again about 6 or
 8 hours after; and then lay it on a kiln with  a hair
 cloth or wire spread under it.   After one fire which
 must last 24 hours, give it another more  slow, and
 afterwards,  if need be, a third; for«if the malt be
 not thoroughly dried, it cannot be well ground, nei-
 ther will it dissolve wjl in the brewing; but the ale
 it makes will be red,  bitter, and unfit for keeping.
                 To grind malt.
   To obtain the infusion of malt, it is necessary to
 break it, for which purpose it is  passed through
 stones placed at such distance, as that they.may
 crush each grain without reducing it to powder;
 '"or if ground too small, it makes the worts thick,
 while if not broken at all, the extract is not ob-
 tained.   In  general, pale  malts are ground larger
 than amber, or brown malts.
   Malt should be used within 2 or 3 days after it
 is ground, but in the London hrew-houses, it is
 generally ground one day and  used the  next.  A
 quarter of malt ground should yield 9 bushels, and
 sometimes 10.   Crushing mills, or iron rollers,
 have lately been used in preference to stones which
 makes considerable grit with the malt.  On a small
 scale, malt may be  broken by  wooden rollers, by
 the hands.
   Steel mills like coffee mills have also been used
 for crushing malt with great success.
        To determine the qualities of malt.
   First,  examine  well if it has  a round body,
 breaks soft, is full  of flour all its length, smells
 well, and has a thin skin; next  chew some  of it,
 and if sweet and mellow, then it is good.  If it is
 hard and steely, and retains something of a barley
 nature,  it has not been rightly made,  and  will
 weigh heavier than that which has been  properly
 malted.
   Secondly, take a  glass  nearly full of water; put
 in some malt, and  if tt swims, it  is good, but if
 any sinks to the bottom then it is not true malt.
   Pale malt is the slowest and least dried, produc-
 ing more wort than high dried malt,  and  of better
 quality.—Amber coloured malt, or  that between
 pale and brown, produces a flavour much admired
 in many malt liquors.  Brown malt loses much of
 its nutritious qualities, but confers a peculiar fla-
 vour desired by many palates.  Roasted malt, after
 the manner of coffee, is used by the best London
 brewers,  to give colour  and  flavour  to porter,
 which in  the first instance has been made  from
 pale malt.   The  most delicately roasted malt for
 this  purpose is made  by Mr Hunt, the proprietor
 of the well  known  breakfast  powder.  He  ex-
 cludes the atmospheric air, and all  effluvia? from
 the fire, by an apparatus of his own invention, and
 hence the perfection of his breakfast powder, and
 consequently of his roasted malt.
                 To choose hops.
  Rub them between the fingers or the  palm of
 the hand,  and if good, a  rich glutinous substance
 will be felt, with a  fragrant  smell, and a fine yel-
 ■ow dust will appear.  The best colour  is a fine
 f live  green, but  if too green,  and the. seeds are
 small and shrivelled, they have been picked too
60on and will be deficient in flavour.  If of a dusty
brown colour,  they  were picked  too late, and
should not be chosen.  When a year old, they are
considered as losing one-fourth in strength.  The
best and  dearest is  the Farnham hop; East Rents
are the next, but those of Sussex and Worcester-
shire are not so strons*
 To  determine  the proportion between the liquor
        boiled and the quantity produced.
   From a single quarter,  two  barrels of liquor
 will produce hut one barrel  of wort.  Three bar-
 rels will produce one barrel three quarters.  Four
 barrels will produce two barrels  and a half.  Five
 barrels will produce three barrels and a quarter.
 Six barrels will produce four barrels.   Eight bar-
 rels will produce five  barrels and a half, and ten
 barrels will produce seven barrels, and so in  pro-
 portion for other quantities.
 To determine the heats of the liquor or water for
   the first and second mashes on different kinds
   of malt.
   First mash.—For very pale malt turn on the li-
 quor at 176°.   For pale and amber mixed,  172°,
 all amber, 170°, high-coloured amber, 168°.   An
 equal quantity of pale, amber, and brown,  160°.
 If the quantity of brown is  very dark, or any part
 of the grains charred  by the  fire upon the  kiln,
 155°.
   Second mash.—For very pale  malt turn on the
 liquor at 182°.   For pale and amber' mixed,  178°,
 all amber, 176°,  high coloured amber, 172°.  An
 equal quantity of pale, amber,  and brown,  166°.
 If the quantity of brown is very dark, or any part
 of the grains charred by the fire, 164°.
   The neat should in some  measure be regulated
 by the temperature of the atmosphere, and should
 be two  or three degrees higher in cold  than in
 warm weather.
   The proper degree of heat will give the strong-
 est wort and in  the greatest quantity, for though
 the heat were greater and the strength of the wort
 thereby increased, yet  a greater  quantity of liquor
 would  be retained in  the malt; and  again, if it
 were lower, it  would produce more wort, bat the
 strength of the extract  would be deficient; the beei
 without spirit, and likely to  turn sour.
         To mash without a  thermometer.
   As diminished evaporation takes place on the
 surface of water just before it boils, many practical
 private  brewers turn on, as soon  as the diminished
 evaporation enables them to  see  their faces on the
 smooth surface of the water, when it  is probably
 at about the heat  actually used by public brewers,
 who adopt thermometers.
   Others use boiling liquor throughout, but lower
 the  temperature, by gradual  applications to the
 malt: thus, they turn a few pailsful of the  boiling
 liquor into the mash tub, which  being thus some-
 what cooled, a quantity of the malt is turned in
 and saturated with the  water; the mass being then
 considerably  lower than the boiling  heat,  they
 turn without  reserve boiling water upon it, which
 being somewhat cooled by the mass, more  malt is
 turned  in,  and  so alternately till  the whole is
 mixed,  which they continue ti  mash for an hour.
     To determine the  strength of the worts.
   To effect this a saccharometer  is necessary, and
 may be purchased at any mathematical instrument
 maker's.  It  determines the  relative gravity of
 wort to the water used, and the quantity of farina-
 ceous matter  contained in the'wort.  It is used in
 all public breweries after drawing off the  wort
 from each mash, and regulates the heat and quan-
 tity of liquor turned on at each succeeding mash,
 that the ultimate strength may be equal though the
 quantity is less.   This signifies little to the private,
 but it is of great consequence to the public brewer.
 Those who brew frequently and desire to intro-
 duce it will obtain printed tables and instructions
 with the instrument.
             To proportion the hops.
  The usual quantity is a pound  to  the bushel of
malt, or eight pounds to the quarter; but for keep-
ing-beer, it should be eKtended to ten, or twelve. 
108
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
and if for one or two years, to fourteen pounds the
quarter.  Small beer requires from three to six
Eminds  the quarter, and rather more when old
 ops are used.
  Some  persons instead of boiling the hops with
the wort, macerate them, and put the strong ex-
tract into the tun with the first wort, and make two
or three extracts in like manner for the second aud
third  worts.
                 To boil worts.
  The first wort should be sharply boiled for one
hour, and the second for twq hou.rs.  But if intend-
ed for beer of long-keeping, tne time should be
extended half an hour.  The hops should be strain-
ed from each preceding wort, and returned into the
copper  with  the succeeding onp.   Between the
boilings the fire should  be damped with wet cin-
ders, and the copper door set open.
  For small beer only  half an hour is necessary
for the  first wort,  1  hour for the second, and 2
hours for the third.  The diminution from boiling
is from one-eighth to one-sixteenth.
               To cool tte worts.
  Worts should be laid  so shallow as to cool with-
in six or seven hours to  the temperature of sixty
degrees.  In warm weather, the depth should not
exceed two or three inches; but in cold weather it
may be five inches.  As soon as  they have  fallen
to 60 degrees, they should instantly be tunned and
yeasted.
          To choose heats for tunning.
  In cold weather, the heats in the coolers should
be five or six  degrees  higher than  in mild and
warm  weather.  For ale, in cold weather, it should
be tunned as soon as it  has fallen to  sixty degrees
in  the coolers;  for porter, to sixty-four degrees;
and for  table beer to seventy-four;  and  in warm
weather, strong beer should be four or five degrees
less, and table beer seven or eight degrees.  Care
should be also taken that the worts do not get cold
before the yeast is mixed to produce  fermentation.
The best rule for mixing the yeast is a pound and a
half to every barrel  ot  strong  beer wort, and a
pound to every barrel of table beer wort.
        To mix the yeast with the worts.
  Ale brewed for keeping in winter  should be no
more than blood warm when the yeast is put to it.
If it is intended for immediate drinking, it may be
yeasted  a  little warmer.  The best  method of
mixing the yeast is to take two or three quarts of
the hot water wort in a wooden  bowl or pan, to
which when cool enough, put yeast enough to work
the brewing: generally one or two quarts to the
hogshead, according to  its quality.   In this bowl
or pan the fermentation will commence while the
rest of the worts are cooling, when the whole may
be mixed together.
   To apportion ye<..st and apply it to the worts.
  The yeast of strong  beer is preferable to that
from small  beer, and it should be fresh f nd good.
The quantity should be diminished with the tem-
perature at which the worts are tunned, and less
in  summer than in winter. For strong beer, a
quart  of yeast per quarter will be sufficient at 58
degrees, but less when  the worts are higher, and
when  the weather is hot.  If estimated by the
more  accurate  criterion  of  weight, lj pounds
should be used for a barrel of strong beer, and 1$
pounds for a barrel of small beer.   If the fermen-
tation does not commence, add a little more yeast,
and rouse the worts for some time.   But if they
get cold, and the fermentation is slow, fill a bottle
with hot water and put it wito the tun.
  In cold weather  small beer should be tunned at
70 degrees, keeping beer at 56 degrees, and strong
beer at 54 Agrees.  In mild weather at 50 de-
 grees for each sort.  The fermentation will  id
 crease the heat 10 degrees.
          To manage the fermentation.
  A proportion of  the yeast should be added to
 the first wort as soon as it is let down from  the
 coolers, and the remainiier as soon as the second
 wort is let down.
  The commencement of fermentation is indicated
 by a line of small bubbles round the sides of  the
 tun, which in a short time extends over the sur-
 face.   A crusty head follows, and then a fine rocky
 one, followed by a light frothy head.  In the last
 stage, the head assumes a 7easty appearance, and
 the colour is yellow or brown, the smell of the tun
 becoming strongly vinous.   As soon as this head
 begins to fall, the tun should  be skimmed, and the
 skimming continued every two hours till no more
 yeast  appears; this  closes the operation, and it
 should then be put into casks, or, in technical lan-
 guage, cleansed.  A minute  attention to every
 stage of this process is necessary to secure fine fla-
 voured, and brilliant beverage.  Should the fer-
 mentation be unusually slow, it should be accele-
 rated by stirring or  rousing the whole.  After the
 first skimming, a small quantity of salt and flour,
 well mixed, should be stirred in the tun.  The fer-
 mentation will proceed in the casks,  to encourage
 which,  the bung-hole should be placed  a little
 aside, and ihe casks kept full, by being filled  up
 from time to  time with old beer.  When this fer-
 mentation has ceased, the casks may be bunged up.
         To accelei ate the fermentation.
  Spread some flour with the hand over the sur-
 face, and it will form a crust, and keep the worts
 warm;—or throw in an ounce or two of powdered
 ginger;—or, fill  a bottle with boiling water, and
 sink it in the worts;—or,  heat a small quantity of
 the worts and throw into the rest;—or, beat up the
 whites of two eggs with some brandy, and throw
 it into the tun or cask;—or, tie up some bran in a
 coarse thin cloth and put it into the vat; and above
 all things do not disturb the wort, as fermentation
 will  not commence during  any agitation  of  the
wort.
       To check a too rapid fermentation.
  Mix some  cold raw wort in the  tun, or divide
the whole between two tuns, where,  by being  in
 smaller body, the energy of  the fermentation  of
 the whole will be divided.  Also, open the doors
 and windows of the brew-house;—but, if  it still
 frets, sprinkle some  cold water over it;—or, if it
 frets in the cask, put in a mixture of a*quarter of a
 pound  of sugar,  with a handful of salt, to the
hogshead.
     To brew porter on the London system.
  Thames  or New River water is  indifferently
U3ed, or hard water,  raised into racks, and exposed
for a few days to the air.
  Take a mixture of brown, amber and pale malts,
 nearly in equal quantities, and turn them into the
mash-tub in this order.  Turn on the first liquor
at 165 degrees; mash one  hour, and then coat the
whole with dry malt  In one hour set the tap.
  Mix 10 lbs. of brown hops to the quarter of malt,
half old, half new; boil the first wort  briskly with
the hops, for three quarters of an hour, and after
putting into the cepper l£ lbs. of sugar, and 1£ fos.
of Leghorn juice (extract of liquorice), to the bar-
rel, turn the  whole into the  coolers, rousing the
 wort all the time.
  Turn on the second liquor  at 174 degrees, and
 in an hour set tap again.  This second wort having
 run off, turn on again at 145  degrees; mash for an
 hour, and stand for  the same; in the mean-time
 boiling the second wort with the same hops for an
 hour.   Turn  these into the coolers as b fore, and 
BREW
let down into the tub at  64 degrees, mixing the
yeast as it comes down.   Cleanse  the second day
at 80 degrees, previously throwing in a mixture of
flour and salt, and rousing thoroughly.
   For private use, every quarter of malt ought to
yield two barrels and a half,  but  brewers would
run three barrels to a quarter.
   Another  method.—The following article is to be
considered as applicable  when not less than 50
quarters of malt are used.                        |
   The liquor for the first  mash should be heated !
in the copper to 150 degrees, in the proportion of 1
two barrels to each quarter of malt, which is to be;
an equal  mixture of pale amber and brown malts. 1
These are mashed about three quarters of an hour; I
the liquor is then allowed to stand on  the goods j
an hour.   The top of the mash tun  is next opened
to let off the liquor as quickly as possible; and the j
top is to be left open till the next liquor is brought j
into the  tun, that  the goods may  drain.  During |
this, the  second  liquor has been heating, and may !
at two hours and  three quarters,  or three hours
from the beginning, have acquired the heat of 160
degrees, the quantity being one barrel to a quarter
of malt.  Mash  this half,  for three quarters of an
hour; let it stand one hour, and then let it it be run
off in the course of half an  hour more; at about five
hours  and  a half from the beginning, the  third
mash should be  made at 180 degrees; the quantity
being one barrel to the qurrter.  Mash this half
an hour,  let it stand one hour, and tap as before.
  A fourth liquor is  seldom mashed, but if it is, it
may be cold or blood warm, as it is of no use but
to make the sour beer for  finings, and it is of little
consequence how it is done.  Some brewers use it
for the first liquor of the next brewing,  but this is
not perhaps a good plan, as it often becomes foxed,
and then  it taints the whole brewing. These worts
are to be boiled with from 12 to 14 pounds of hops to
the quarter of malt, if ths liquor is intended for
keeping 8 or 12  months, but in the ordinary run !
of porter, not intended for keeping, 5 lbs. may be
sufficient.  The first wort should  be  boiled one
hour,  the second  two hours, and  the third four
hours.
   The worts are now to be  cooled down as expe-
ditiously as the weather will permit, to  about 60
degrees,  if the medium heat of the atmosphere  is
about 60  degrees; if it is  more or  less, allowance
must be made as before directed.  All the three
worts are to be brought  into the square together,
and about five pints of yeast to the quarter of malt
put in; the proportion of colouring is arbitrary, as
it depends upon  the colour of the malt.
         To brew three barrels of porter.
   Take 1 sack of pale malt, ^ a sack of amber do.
and ^ a sack of brown do.
   Turn on two barrels for first mash at 165 de-
grees;—second mash, one  barrel and a half at 172
degrees;—third  mash, two barrels, at 142 degrees.
Boil IU lbs. of new and old hops, and 2 oz. of por-
ter extract, in the first wort.  Cool, ferment, and
cleanse according to the previous instructions.
      To brew porter on Mr Mortice's plan.
  Commence at five  o'clock in the  morning;  ther-
mometer in the air 34 degrees.   Take of West
country pale  malt, 3 quarters, Herts pale malt, 6
quarters, Herts brown malt, 8 quarters, Herts am-
Oer malt, 8 quarters, hops, 1 cwt 2 quarters, Leg-
horn juice, 30 lbs. porter extract, 4 lbs.
  Charge the first great copper with 52 barrels, and
raise to 155 degrees.  Mash for one hour, and set
the tap at 7 o'clock, at 137 degrees.
  Charge copper with 36 barrels, and raise to 160
degrees.  Mash, and set tap at 146 degrees.  Boil
first wort.
   Charge copper for third mash with 59 barrels,
™g.                                      109

 and raise to 150 degrees.   Mash a quarter of an
 hour, and set tap at 132 degrees; boil second wort
 an hour and a half.  Tun at 64 degrees.   Cleanse
 in two days 88 barrels.
                  Brown stout.
   The procedure is the same  as in  the preceding
 article, except that one third,  or one halt the malt
 should be brown.
                  London ale. '
   Almost every county in England has its variety
 of ale, but the difference consists chiefly (the same
 quantity of malt an*2 hops being used) in the pre-
 paration of the malt.  Water may, in some  cases,
 varv  in quality, the boiling may  be  longer or
 shorter, or the liquor may be turned on at a differ-
 ent heat; but these varieties being considered, one
 general process serves for  the whole.   For good
 ale, the malt and hops should  be of the best  quali-
 ty.  For  immediate use, the malt should be all
 pale; but if brewed for keeping, or  in warm wea-
 ther, one fourth should be amber malt.  Six pounds
 of Kentish hops should be used to the quarter, or
 10 lbs.  for keeping ale.
    To brew two barrels from a quarter of malt.
   In the brewing of one quarter, turn on* two bar-
 rels at 175 degrees; mash one hour: and let it stand
 for the  same time.
   For second mash, turn on one barrel at 160 de-
 grees.  Mash one hour  and stand one hour; boil
 the first wort briskly for  one hour; and boil the se-
 cond two hours, or till the  whole is two barrels.
 Cool down to 60  degrees and tun.  Cleanse on tha
 4th day at 72 degrees, previously mixing two ounces
 of ginger, ^ an ounce of salt, and a handful of flour.
   Keep the working tun  closely covered, and just
 before the head begins to fall, skim the  top, and
 rouse in the rest.  When the  blebs are large and
 on the fret, rouse in ^ an ounce of salt of tartar,  a
 handful of malted bean-flour, and some fresh yeast,
 after which it will ferment more kindly, and the
 cleansing may soon follow, with the new head on.
 Take care to fill  up the  cask  while working,  and
 before  bunging put a handful  of scalded  hops into
 each.  Sometimes the fermentation  is conducted
 by skimming, as soon as the head bears a yeasty
 appearance: then by skimming and rousing as often
 as other heads arise, till no other head appears.
   Or, cleansing may take place without skimming
 or rousing, as soon as the head begins to fall, tak-
 ing care,  by means ofa pipe rising within the tun,
 that the yeast docs not pass into the barrels.   The
 quantity of hops boiled in the  wort should vary ac-
 cording to the intention.   Six pounds  will suffice
 for ale for present use.
   In the above instance a barrel and a quarter of
 liquor at 150 degrees may afterwards be tunned for
 a barrel of table beer.
          To brew ale in small families.
   A bushel and three quarters of ground malt, and
 a pound of hops, are sufficient to make 18 gallons
 of good family ale.  That the saccharine matter of
 the malt may be extracted by infusion,  without the
 farina, the temperature of the water should not ex-
 ceed  155  or. 160 deg. Fahrenheit's  thermometer.
 The quantity ot  water  should be poured on the
 malt as speedily as possible, and the whole  being
 well mixed together by active stirring, the vessel
 should be closely covered over for an hour;  if the
 weather be cold, for an hour and a half.   If hard
 water be  employed,  it should be boiled, and the
 temperature allowed, by exposure to the atmo-
 sphere, to fall to 155 or  160 degrees Fahrenheit;
 but if rain water is used, it may be added to the
 malt as soon as it arrives to  155 degrees.   During
 the time this process is going  on, the  hops should
 be infused in a close vessel,  in as much boiling
 water as will cover them, for two hours.   The li-
                                       K 
110
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 quor may then be squeezed out, and kept closely
 covered.
   The hops  should then be boiled for about ten
 minutes, in double the quantity of water obtained
 from the infused hop, and the strained liquor, when
 cold, may be added with the infusion, to the wort,
 when it has fallen to  the temperature  of  70  deg.
 The  object of infusing the hop in a close vessel
 previously to boiling, is to preserve the  essential
 oii of the hop, which  renders it  more sound,  and,
 at the same time, more wholesome.  A pint cf good
 thick yeast should be  well stirred into the mixture
 of wort and hops, and covered over in a place of
 the temperature of 65 deg. Fahrenheit; and when
 the fermentation is completed, the liquor  may be
 drawn off into a clean cask previously rinsed with
 boiling water. When  the slow fermentation which
 will ensue has ceased, the cask should be loosely
 bunged for two days, when, if the  liquor be left
 quiet, the  bung may  be properly fastened.   The
 pale malt is the best, because, when highly dried,
 it does not afford  so much saccharine  matter.  If
 the malt be new, it should be exposed to the air,
 in a dry room, for two days previously to its being
 used; but if it be  old, it may be used  in 12 or 20
 IHours  after it is  ground.   The great difference
 .n the flavour of ale, made by different brewers,
 appears to arise from their employing different
 species of the hop.
         Another method of braving ale.
  For 36 gallons, take of malt  (usually pale), 2£
 busnels, sugar, 3 lbs. just boiled to a colour, hops,
 2 lbs. 8 oz. coriander seeds,  I  oz.  capsicum, $ a
 drachm.
  Work it 2 or 3 days, beating it well up  once or
twice a day; when it begins to  fall, cleanse it by
adding a handful of salt, and some wheat-flour.
         Table beer only, from pale malt.
  The first mash should be at  170 deg. viz.  two
 barrels per quarter; let it stand on the grains three-
quarters of an hour in hot weather,  or one hour if
cold.   Second mash,  145 deg., at  l£ barrels per
quarter, stanus half an hour.  Third, 165 deg., two
barrels per quarter, stands half an hour.  Fourth,
130 deg., three barrels, stands two hours.  The
first wort to be boiled  with 6 lbs. of hops per quar-
ter, for an hour and a half, the  second wort to be
boiled with the same hops two hours, and the re-
mainder three hours.   The whole to be now heat-
ed as  low as  55 deg., if the weather permits, and
put to work with about 5 pints of yeast per quar-
ter; if the weather is too warm to get  them down
to 55 deg., a less proportion will be sufficient. The
eight barrels of liquor first used, will be reduced
to six of beer to each quarter; one barrel being left
in the grains, and another evaporated in boiling,
cooling, and working.
             Table beer from sugar.
  To 4 pounds of coarse brown  sugar, add 10  gal-
lons of water, then put in three ounces of hops, and
let the whole boil for three quarters of an hour, and
work  it as usual.  It should be kept a week or ten
days before it is tapped, when it will improve daily
afterwards, within a moderate time of consump-
tion.
            Table beer from treacle.
  Another  method, ar.d for a smaller quantity, is,
to put a pound of trtcde to eight quarts of boiling
water: add two bay-leaves, and a  quarter of an f
ounce of  ginger in powder.  Boil  the  whole for
fifteen minutes, then let it become cool, and work
it with yeast.                                   !
  Another  method.—For ten barrels. Take  of
malt,  8 bushels, hops, 8 pounds, sugar, 8  pounds
made into colour, Spanish liquorice, 8 oz. treacle, |
10 lbs.  Proceed as above.                       i
     Ale and small beer on Mr Cobbet's plan.
                    Utensils.
   These are first, a copper, costing 51. that will
 contain at least 40 gallons.
   Second,  a mashing-tub, costing 30s. to contain
 60 gallons;  for the malt is to be in this along with
 the Water.   It must be a little broader at top than
 at bottom, and not quite so deep  as k  is wide
 across the bottom.  In the middle ot the bottom there
 is a hole about two inches over, to draw the wort off.
 Into this hole goes a stick  a  foot or two longer
 than the tub is high.  This stick is to be about two
 inches through, and tapered for about eight inches
 upwards, at the end that goes into  the hole, which
 at last it fills up as closely as a cork.  Before any
 thing else is put into the tub, lay a little bundle ot
 fine birch about half the bulk of  a  birch broom,
 and weW tied at both ends.  This being laid over
 the hole (to keep back the grains as the wort goes
 out) put the tapered end of the stick down through
 it into the hole, and thus cork the whole up.  Then
 have something  of weight sufficient to keep the
 birch steady at the bottom of the tub, with a hole
 through it to slip down the stick; the best  thing
 for this purpose will be a leaden collar for the  stick,
 with the hole large enough,  and it should weigh 3
 or 4 pounds.
   Third, an underback, or shallow tub, costing 25s.
 to go under the mash-tub for the wort to  run into
 when drawn from the grain's.
   Fourth, a tun-tub, that will contain 30 gallons,
 to put.the ale into to work, the mash-tub* serving
 as a tun-tub for the small beer.  Besides  these a
 couple of coolers, or shallow tubs,  about a foot
 deep; or, if there are four it may be as well, in or-
 der to effect the cooling more quickly.; the whole
 costing 25s.
          Process of brewing the ale.
  Begin by filling the copper with water, and next
by making  the water  boil.   Then  put  into the
mashing-tub water sufficient to stir and separate
the malt.  The degree of heat that the water is to
be at, before the malt is put in, is one hundred and
seventy degrees by the thermometer: but, without
one, take this rule: when you can, looking down into
the tub, see your face clearly  in the water, the wa-
ter is hot enough.  Now put in the malt and stir it
well in the  water.  In this state it should continue
for about a quarter of an hour.  In  the meanwhile
fill up the copper, and make it boil; and then put
in boiling water sufficient to give eighteen  gallons
of ale.
  When the proper quantity of water is in, stir the
malt again well, and cover the  mashing-tub over
with sacks, and there let the  mash stand for two
hours:  then draw off the wort.  The mashing-tub
is placed on a couple of stools,  so as  to be able to
put the underback under it, to receive the wort, as
it comes out of the hole.  When the underback is
put in its place, let out the wort by pulling up the
stick that corks the hole.  But, observe, this stick
(which goes six or eight inches through the  hole)
must be raised by degrees, and the  wort must be
let out slowly in order to keep back the sediment.
So that it is necessary to have something to  keep
the stick up at the point where it is to be raised,
and fixed at for the time.  To do this the simplest
thing is a stick across the mashing-tun.
  As the ale-wort is drawn off into the small un-
derback, lade it out of that into the  tun-tub; put
the wort into the copper, and add a pound and a
half of good hops, well rubbed and  separated as
they are put in.   Now make the copper boil, and
keep it, with the lid off, at a  good brisk boil for a
full hour, or an hour and a half.  When the  boil-
ing is  done, put the liquor into the  coolers; but 
BREWING.
Ill
 strain out the hops in a small clothes-basket, or
 wicker-basket.   Now set the coolers  in the most
 convenient place, in doors or out of doors, as most
 convenient.
   The next stage is the tun-tub, where the liquor
 is set to work.   A great point is, the degree of heat
 that the liquor is to be at, when it is set to work.
 The  proper heat  is seventy degrees;  so that a
 thermometer makes the matter sure.   In the coun-
 try they determine the degree of heat by merely
 putting a finger into the liquor.
   When cooled to the proper heat, put it into  the
 tun-tub, and put in about half a pint of good yeast.
 But the  yeast should first be put into half a gallon
 of the liquor, and mixed well; stirring in with  the
 yeast a handful  of wheat or rye-flour.   This mix-
 ture is then to  be poured out  clean into the tun-
 tub, and the mass of the liquor agitated well,  till
 the yeast be well  mixed with  the whole.   When
 the liquor is thus properly put into th» tua-tub and
 set a  working, cover over the top, by laying a sack
 or two across it.
   The tun-tub  should stand in a place neither too
 warm nor  too cold.  Any cool place in summer,
 and any  warm place in winter, and if the weather
 be very cold, "some cloths or sacks should  be put
 round the tun-tub while the beer is  working.   In
 about six or eight hours a frothy head will rise
 upon  the liquor; and it will keep  rising, more or
 less slowly, for 48 hours.  The best way is  to take
 off the froth, at the end of about 24 hours,  with a
 common skimmer, and in 12 hours take it off again,
 and so  on, till the liquor  has done working, and
 sends up no more yeast.  Then it is beer; and,
 when it is quite cold, (for ale or strong beer,) put
 it into the cask by means of»funnel.  It must  be
 eold before this is done, or it will be foxed; that
 is, have a rank and disagreeable taste.
  The cask should lean a little on one side when
 filling it, because  the  beer will work again, and
 send more yeast out of the bung hole.  Something
 will go off in this working, which may continue for
 two or three days, so that when the beer is putting
 in the cask, a gallon or two should be left, to keep
 filling up with as the working produces emptiness.
 At  last,  when  the working  is completely over,
 block the cask up to its level.   Put in a handful of
 fresh hops; fill  the  cask  quite full and bung it
 tight, with a bit of coarse linen round the bung.
  When the cask is empty, great care must be taken
 to cork it tightly up, so that no air gets in; for, if
 so, the cask is moulded and  spoiled for ever.
                 The small beer.
  Thirty-six gallons of boiling water are to  go into
 the mashing-tub; the grains are to be well  stirred
 up, as before; the mashing-tub is  to  be covered
 over,  and the mash is to stand in that state  for  an
 hour; then draw it off into the tun-tub.
  By this time the copper will be empty again,  by
 putting the ale liquor to cool.   Now put tne small
 beer w ort into the copper with the hops used before,
 and with half a pound of fresh hops added to them;
 and this  liquor boil briskly for an hour.
  Take the grains and  the sediment clean  out  of
 the mashing-tub, put the birch twigs in again, and
 put down the stick as before.  Put the basket over,
 and take the liquor from the copper (putting the
 fire out first) and  pour it into the mashing-tub
 through the basket.  Take the basket away, throw
 the hops to the dunghill, and leave the small beer
 liquor to cool in the mashing-tub.
  Here it is to remain to be set to working; only,
 more yeast will be wanted in proportion; and there
 should be for 36  gallons of small beer, three half
 pints of good yeast.
  Proceed now, as with the ale, only,  in the case
of the small beer, it should be put into cask, not
 quite cold;  but a little warm ;  or else it will not
 work in the barrel,  which it ought to do.  It will
 not work so strongly nor so  long as ale; and may
 be puv. into the barrel much  sooner; in general the
 next day after it is brewed.
   All the utensils should be  well cleaned and put
 away as soon as they are done with.  " I am now,"
 says Mr Cobbet, " in a farm  house,  where the
 same set of utensils have been used for forty years;
 and the owner tells me, that they may last for forty
 years longer."
   To brew ale and porter from  sugar and malt.
   To every quarter of malt take 100  pounds of
 brown  sugar, and in the result, it will be found
 that the sugar is equal to the malt.   The quarter
 of malt is to be brewed with  the same proportions,
 as though it  were two quarters;  and sugar is to be
 put into the tun, and the. first wort let down upon
 it, rousing the whole well together.
   The other worts are then to be let down, and the
 fermentation and other processes carried on as in
 the brewing of malt.
 To brew four bushels of malt, with only one copper,
              mash-tub, and cooler.
   If  the mash-tub holds two barrels, it is better
 than  a smaller one, that there may be room enough
 for mashing; in such a one fix a  brass cock of three
 quarters of an inch bore, let it be a plug and bas-
 ket.  Use soft water (for brown or amber malt),
 covered with three or tour handsful of malt or bran,
 if the water is thoroughly clear; if not, put as much
 salt as will lie on a crown-piece, into a copper that
 holds at least one barrel, containing 36 gallons;
 and as it heats and the scum rises, take it off before
 it boils in.  Then, when it begins to boil, lade two
 pailsful first  into the mash-tub, and put two pails-
 ful of cold water into the copper in their room, and
 just  boil all again; then convey all the hot water
 into the mash-tub, and when  the face  can be  seen
 in it, mix the malt a little at a time.   Wash, and
 let all stand two hours under a cover of cloths; at
 the end of wfrch run a drizzling stream, and faster
 by degrees, on a few  hops, to secure  it.   While
 the first wort is standing and running off, another
 copper must  boil to clean vessels, and what is used
 this way is to be supplied by adding more  cold
 water, and boiling it again, two  pailsful of which
 are to  be  thrown on  the grains, as the first  wort
 runs  off.  These four pailsful of hot water are al-
 lowed for  the malt  to absorb, being a  bucket to
 each  bushel, and thus the brewer has nearly a full
 barrel of first wort come off,  which is to be boiled
 with  half a pound of hops till it breaks, first into
 very small particles,  and then into larger, till the
 flakes are as large as wheat chaff. As soon as the
 first wort has run off from the mash-tub, the second
 copper of boiling water is to be put over the grains
 and mashed.   This is to stand one hour before it is
 begun to be discharged; and while this is standing
 and running off, the first wort is  to be boiled and
 put into coolers, and a third copper of only heated
 water is to  be thrown over the grains, as soon as
 the second  wort is spent oft",  which also is to be
 mashed.
  While this is  standing for one hour, and then
 run off, boil the second wort with half a pound of
 fresh  hops, till it  breaks  into small particles, and
 immediately  after boil the third copper, with 4
 ounces of fresh hops  during one hour, for this last
 wort is too meagre to show its time by breaking.
  By this method, in a barrel  copper, may be boil-
ed thirty-one gallons of neat first  wort, which is to
be cooled, worked, and then put  into two  kilder-
kins,  one  of entire  ale,  but  the second a little
weaker  on account of having had  five gallons of the
second wort put into it to fill it up.   Besides this,
the brewer will have a hogshead of good small beer, 
112
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 made with the second and third coppers of after-
 worts.
             To breno Welch ale.
   Take 3 quarters of the best pale malt, 25 lbs. of
 hops, 7 lbs. of sugar, and | lb. grains of paradise.
   Turn on the first liquor at 178 degrees.   Mash
 for an hour and a half, and stand two hours.   Turn
 on second liquor  at  190 degrees, and stand  two
 hours.  Boil  an hour and a half, and put in the
 sugar just before turning into the  coolers.   Pitch
 the tun at 62 degrees and put in  the liquorice root.
 Cleanse at 80 degrees, using salt and flour.
   After the second mash, turn on for table beer at
 150 degrees.   Mash three quarters of an hour, and
 stand two hours.
               'To brew Burton ale.
   Ot  this  strong ale, only a barrel and  a, half is
 d~iwn from a quarter, at 180 degrees for the first
 mash, and 190 degrees for the second,  followed by
 a gyle of table beer.   It is tunned at 58 degrees,
 and cleansed at 72 degrees.  The Burton brewers
 use the finest pale malt, and grind  it a day or  two
 before being used.  They  employ Kentish hops,
 from  six to eight pounds per quarter.
            To brew Ringwood ale.
   This  brewing produces two barrels and a half
 from  the quarter.   The best pale malt  and  pocket
 hops are used at the rate of six pounds to the quar-
 ter.  Turn on first mash at 180 degrees, and  second
 nash  at 190 degrees.  Pitch tne  tun at 60 degrees,
 and cleanse at 80 degrees.  Mash successively  one
 hour,  and three quarters of an hour,  standing an
 hour and a half, and two hours.  Add in the tun
 two pounds of yeast for every  barrel, and coat with
 salt and flour after the first skimming.
  After the second mash, turn on for table beer, at
 150 degrees.
    To brew Nottingham ale in the small way.
  The first copperful  of boiling water is to  be  put
 into the mash-tub, there to lie a quarter of an hour,
till the steam is far spent;  or as soon as the  hot
water is put in, throw into it a pail or two of cold
 water, which will bring it at once to a proper tem-
perature; then let three bushels of malt run leisure-
ly into it, and stir  or mash all the while, but no
more  than just to keep the malt  from clotting or
balling; when that  is done, put one bushel  of dry
malt at the top, and let it stand covered two hours,
or till the next copperful of water  is  boiled, then
lade over the malt three hand-bowlsful at a time.
These run off at the  .ock or  tap by a very small
stream before more is put on,  which again must be
returned into the mash-tub till it comes off exceed-
ingly  fine.  This slow way takes sixteen hours in
 brewing four bushels of malt.   Between  the lad-
ings., put cold water into the copper to boil, while
 the other is running oft"; oy this means, the copper
 s  kept up" nearly full, and the cock is kept run-
 ning to the end of the brewing.   Only twenty-one
gallons must be saved of the first  wort, which is
reserved in a tub, wherein four ounces of hops  are
put, and then it is to be  set by.
  For the second wort there are twenty gallons of
water in the copper boiling which must be laded
over in the same manner as the former, but no cold
 water need be mixed.  When half of this  is run
out into a tub, it must be directly put into the cop-
per with half of the first wort, strained through  the
brewing sieve  as it lies on a small loose wooden
 frame over the copper, in order to keep those hops
 that were first put in to preserve  it, which is to
 make the first copper twenty-one gallons.   Then,
 upon  its beginning to boil, put in a pound of hops
 in one or two  canvass bags, somewhat larger than
 will just contain the hops, that an  allowance may
 be given for their swell; this  boil very briskly for
hall an hour, when take the hops out and continue
 I boiling the wort by itself till it breaks into particjea
  a little ragged; it is tlnn done, and  must be dis-
  persed into the  cooling tubs very shallow.  Put
  the remainder of the first and second wort together,
  and boil it in the same manner, and with the same
  quantity of fresh hop's, as the fii at.
    By this method of brewing, ale may be made as
  strong or as small as is thought fit,  and so may die
  small beer that comes after.
              To brew Dorchester ale.
    Boil the water, and let it stand till the face can
  be seen in it; then put the malt in by degrees, and
  stir it;  let  it stand two hours; then turn on the
  proper complement.   Boil  the wort and  hops
  thirty minutes; cool it as soon as possible,  stirring
  it so that the bottoms  may be mingled; then set it
  in the gyle-tun, until it gathers a head, which must
  be skimmed off; then put in the yeast, and work it
  till the head falls; then cleanse it, keeping the cask
  filled up so long as it will work.
    The malts used are l-3d pale, and  2-.3ds amber,
  with six'or seven pounds of hops to  the quarter.
  By the thermometer, the heat of the first liquor is
  170 degrees, and of the second 180 degrees, and the
  produce is two barrels per quarter.
                To brew Essex ale.
    Procure two mashing-tubs, one  that will mash
  4 bushels, and the other 2, and a copper that holds
  half a hogshead.  The water, when boiled, is put
  into the iargest tub, and a pail of cold water imme-
  diately on that: then put the malt  in by a hand-
  bowlful at a time, stirring it  all the while, and so
  on in a greater quantity by degrees; (for the danger
  of balling is mostly at  first) till at last half a bushel
  of dry malt is left for a top-cover: thus let  it stand
  three hours.  In  the mean while, another copper
  of water is directly heated, and  put as before  into
  the other mash-tub, for mashing two bushels of
  malt, which stands that time. Then, after the wort
  of the four bushels is  run  off, let that also of the
  two bushels spend,  and lade it over the four bush-
  els, the  cock running all the. while, and it  will
  make in all a  copper and a half of wort, which  is
  boiled at  twice; that is, when  the  first  copper  is
  boiled an hour, or till it breaks  into large flakes,
  then take half out, and put the remaining raw wort
  to it, and  boil it about half an hour till it is broke.
  Now, while the two worts are running off, a cop-
I  per of water almost scalding hot is made ready, and
  put  over  the  goods or grains  of both tubs; after
  an hour's standing the cock is turned, and this se-
  cond wort is boiled away, and put over the grains
  of both tubs to stand an hour; when off, it is put
  into the copper and  boiled again, and then serves
  hot  instead of the first water,  for mashing four
  bushels of fresh malt;  after it has again lain three
  hours, and is  spent off, it is  boiled; but while iu
  the mash  tub, a copper of water  is heated to p-
  over the.goods or grains which stands an hour, and
  is then  boiled for small-beer.   And  thus  may be
  brewed 10 bushels of malt with 2 pounds and a half
  of hops for the whole.
             'To brew Barnstable ale.
    Boil the wat**r, then throw two pails of cold into
  the  mash-tun, and afterwards  the  boiling water;
  then immediately put  in the  malt, half a bushel at
  a time.   After stirring it till all is soaked, cap  it
  with malt or bran, and cover  it close to stand three
  hours, then see if the mash is sunk in the middle,
  which it will sometimes do,  and when it does, it
  shows the strength, and must be filled level with
  boiling water to  stand half an hour after, when  it v
  is to be run oft'in a goose quill stream, which is to
  be returned upon the grains again, by a bowl or
  pailful at a time, as far back as possible  from the
  cock; for then the liquor strains through the body
  of the grains, and at last comes very line.  Other ■ 
BREWING.
113
wise thettrck parts are forced down to the cock.
This is called doubling; continue to do so for half
an hour, then stop, and let it stand half an hour
longer in winter, but not in summer.  Then rub
four pounds of h'ops very fine into the sieve for the
wort to run off; do not draw it  off too near before
lading over more boiling water out of the copper.
This is to be continued till the whole quantity of
ale wort is obtained, which, with all the hops, is
to be boiled till the liquor breaks or curdles.  Now
empty all into large earthen long pans or coolers.
This work, when cold, with the same hops altogether
thus: put a little  yeast (as  little as possible), and
that not a day old, to a quantity, and mix that with
all the rest to work twelve  or fourteen hours, and
then strain it directly  into the barrel, where keep
filling it until it is done working.
             To brew Edinburgh ale.
  Adopt the best pale  malt.
  1st   Mash two barrels per quarter, at 183 deg.
(170); mash three quarters of an hour,  let if stand
one  hour,  and allow half an hour to run off the
wort.
  2d.   Mash one barrel per quarter, at 190 deg.
(183); mash three quarters of an hour, let it stand
three quarters of an hour, and tap as before.
  3d.   Mash one barrel per quarter, at 160 deg.;
mash half  an hour, let it stand half an hour, and
tap as before.
  The  first and second wort may be mixed toge-
ther, boiling them about an hour or an hour and a
quarter, with a quantity of hops proportioned  to
the time the beer is intended to be kept.
  The two first may be mixed at the heat of 60 or
65 deg. in the gyle-tun, and the second should be
fermented separately tor small beer.
             To brew  Windsor ale.
  Take 5 quarters of the best pale malt, half a cwt.
of hops, 8  lbs. of honey, I lb.  of  coriander seed,
half lb. of grains of paradise,  half lb. of orange
peel, and  two and a half lbs. of ground liquorice
root.
  The hops should be of the best kind, and soaked
►II night  in  cold liquor.   Turn on at 180 deg.
mash thoroughly an hour and a quarter, and stand
an hour.  Boil one hour.
  Turn on second  liquor  at 195  deg. and stand
three quarters of an hour.  Boil three hours.
  Turn on third liquor at 165 deg.  mash three
quarters of an hour, and stand the same.  Pitch
the tun at 60 deg. and  cleanse at 80 on the third
day.   Skim as soon as a close yeasty head appears,
until no yeast arises.   Half a pound  of hops per
quarter should be roused in, and the whole left to
settle.  Also  rouse in six  ounces of  salt, half a
pound of flour, six ounces of ground  ginger, and
six ounces of ground caraway seed.
  The  drugs above   mentioned  are  forbidden,
under the penalty of two hundred pounds, and the
forfeiture of  all utensils; but  of course private fa-
milies are  at liberty to use whatever they please.
Nothing but malt and hops are permitted to public
brewers, except the colouring  extract; and drug-
gists who  sell to brewers are subject to a penalty
of five hundred pounds.
  Windsor ale yields about 2$ barrels to the quar-
ter.
'To brew with Needhai.i's  portable machine,  by
    which  the malt is boiled without mashing.
  The  saving, by brewing  one bushel  of malt, is
above half.
  The machine being placed ready for use, put the
malt into the cylinder, (taking care none goes into
the centre nor between the cylinder  and outside
boiler), add fourteen gallons of cold water to each
bushel  of malt, then light the  fire, and raise the
liquor to 180 degrees of heat, as soon as possible,
       P
which must be ascertained by uipp/i.g the thermo-
meter one minute into the liquor.  Stir the malt
well up with a mashing stick, or mashing iron, for
ten minutes, to divide every particle of malt from
each other, keeping the  heat from 170 to 180 de-
grees for two  hours (to prevent the liquoi  from
being over  heated, damp the fire with wet ashes,
and leave the  door open); then draw off the wort
very gently (that it may run fine)  into one of the
coolers, and put all the hops  (rubbing  them to
break the lumps) on the top of the wort, to keep it
hot till the time  for returning it into the machine.
Having drawn off th%ale wort, put into  the  ma-
chine ten gallons of cold water  to each bushel of
malt.  Brisken the fire, and make the liquor 180
degrees of heat,  as soon as possible, which must be
ascertained by dipping the thermometer  one mi-
nute into the liquor.  Having ascertained that the
liquor is at 180 degrees of heat, stir the malt well
up, as  before,  for ten minutes, keeping the heat
from 170 to 180  degrees for one hour and a half;
then draw off this table beer wort into the other
cooler, and cover it over to keep it hot, until time
for returning it into the machine for boiling.   Hav-
ing drawn oft" the table beer  wort, clean  the  ma-
chine from the grains, and return the first wort in-
to the machine, with all the hops, taking care the
hops are all within the cylinder, and  that none of
them get into the centre or between the cylinder
and outer boiler.  Make  it boil as quick as you
can, and let it boil one hour; after which damp the
fire, and draw it off into a cooler or coolers, which
should  be  placed- in the  air, where it will cool
quick;  then return the second wort into  the  ma-
chine, to the  hops, make  it boil as quick as you
can, and let it boil one hour; put out the fire; draw
off the wort, and put it into a cooler placed in the
air to cool quick.   When the worts in the cooler
are cooled down  to 70 degrees of heat by the  ther-
mometer, put the proportion ofa gill of fresh thick
yeast to every nine gallons of wort into the cool-
ers,  first thinning the yeast with  a little of the
wort before you  put  it in, that it may the Letter
mix; and when the ale wort is cooled down to 60
degrees of heat,  draw it off from the coolers, with
the yeast and  sediment, and  put it into the  ma-
chine boiler (the machine boiler having been pre-
viously cleared  from the hops  and  cylinder),
which  forms  a  convenient vessel, placed on its
stand,  for the ale to ferment in,  whioh  mus* be
kept fermenting  in it with the cover on, until the
bead has the appearance of a thick brown yeast on
the surface, an inch or two deep, which will take
three or four days.—[N. B. If the temperature of
the weather is below 55 degrees of heat by the
the thermometer, it will be better to place the fer-
menting vessel in  a situation net exposed to the
cold];—when the head has this appearance,  draw
off the beer from the  yeast and  bottoms into a
clean cask, which must  be filled full, and when
done working, put in a handful of dry hops,  bung
it down tight,  and stow it in a  cool cellar.   This
ale will be fit to  tap in three or four weeks.
  The  second  wort for  table beer should be put
from the coolers, with yeast and sediment, into an
upright cask,  with the cover off, or top head out,
at not exceeding  60 degrees of heat; and as soon as
you perceive a brown yeast on the surface, draw it
oft'free from'the yeast and bottoms into a clean cask,
which  must be  kept  filled full, and when  done
working, put  in a handful of dry hops, bung it
down tight, and stow it in a cool cellar.   This
table beer will be fit to tap in a week, or as soon as,
fine.
              To make table ale.
  Mix the first and second worts together, and fcr*
ment it, and treat it the  same as the ale.
                                      A'a 
114
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 To brew porter,  or  brown  beer, with table beer
        after, from the same malt and hops.
   Use  pale and  brown malt in equal quantities,
 ground coarse, and strong brown coloured hops of
 a glutinous quality.   If the beer  is for present
 draugnt, three quarters of a pound of hops to each
 bushel  of malt will be sufficient, but if intended
 for store beer, use one pound  to each  bushel  of
 malt.
   The process of brewing is the same as described
 for brewing ale, with table beer after, except  the
 heat of each mash must not be so high by 10  de-
 grees, on account of the brown  malt; the first wort
 fermented by itself will be stout porter, and fit to
 tap in three or four weeks; the second wort will be
 the table beer, and fit to tap in a week, or as soon
 as fine; but if you mix  the first and  second  worts
 together, the same as for table ale, it will be good
 common porter.
             To breiv table beer only.
   Let the malt be of one sort, of a full yellow  co-
 lour (not brown malt), ground coarse, and strong
 brown coloured hops, of a glutinous quality.  If
 for present  draught, half a pound of hops to each
 bushel of malt will be sufficient; but if for keeping
 two or three months, use one pound  of  hops per
 bushel.
   The process of brewing is the same as described
 for brewing porter and  table  beer, with the addi-
 tion of another wort; that is, filling the. machine a
 third  time with water  before you take out  the
 grains, and treating the third mash the same as the
 second.
  Tj|e first drawing off, or wort, with part of  the
 second wort, to be boiled (first) one hour with  all
 the hops,  and the  remainiier of the  second wort
 with the third, to he boiled next one hour to  the
 same hops;  these two boilings, when cooled  down
 to 60 degrees of heat, (having put your yeast to it
 in the coolers at 70 degrees),  must be put together
 to ferment in the machine boiler, and as soon as it
 has the appearance of a brown yeast on the surface,
 draw it  off into the casks, which must be kept fill-
 ed  full; and  when  done working, put  into each
 cask a handful of dry hops, bung it down tight, and
 put it into a cooler cellar.  Tap in a week, or as
 soon as fine.
  This machine may be had from Si. to 551., and
 sets of coolers from 2/. to 31/.
         Clteup and agreeable table beer.
  Take 15 gallons of water and boil one half, put-
ting the other into  a barrel; add the boiling water
to the cold, with one gallon of molasses and a little
yeast.  Keep the bung hole open till the fermenta-
tion is abated.
              To make sugar beer.
  Very excellent beer is made of sugar, and also
 of treaele.  First boil a  peck of bran  in 10 gallons
 of water;  strain the bran off, and mix  with, the
 branny water three pounds of sugar,  first stirring
it well;  when cool enough, add a tea-cupful of the
best yeast, and a table-spoonful  of flour to a  bowl
 nearly full of the saccharine  matter, which, when
 it has fermented for about an hour, is to be mixed
 with the remainder, and hopped with about half a
pound of hops, and the  following day, it may  be
 put into the cask, to ferment further,  which usual-
ly takes up three days, when it  is to be bunged,
awl it will be fit for drinking in a week.   Treaele
 beer is made in the same way, three  pounds  of i,t
 being  used instead of three pounds of sugar.
  N. B. Thisbeerwillnotkeepanylengihoftime.
                  Spruce beer.
  Boil eight gallons of water, and when in a state
 of complete  ebullition  pour  it into a beer barrel
 which contains  eight gallons  more of cold water;
 then add  sixteen pounds of  molasses, with a few
 tablespoonsful of the essence of spruce, stirring
 the whole well together; add half a pint of yeast
 and keep it in a temperate situation, with the bung
 hole open for two days till the fermentation be abat-
 ed, when the bung may be put in and the beer bot.
 tied off.  It is fit to drink in a day or two.  If you
 can get no essence of spruce make a strong decaci
 tion of the small twigs and leaves of the spruce firs.
                   Bran beer.
   Good fresh table beer may be made with sound
 wheat bran, at  the rate  of 2d.  per gallon, beer
 measure, estimating the price of bran  at 4#. per
 cwt., and the saccharine density  of the  wort ex-
 tracted, at IS lbs. per barrel; but the use  of the
 instrument called saceharometer, in domestic prac-
 tice, is not necessary, the process in brewing with
 wheat bran being sufficiently known to every good
 housewife, especially to those of labourers in hus-
 bandry, as well as that for this purpose nothing of
 apparatus is needful, but such as ought  to be in
 common use with every cottager in  the country.
 A few pounds per barrel of treacle, or the coarsest
 Muscovado sugar, would be a cheap improvement
 as to strength, which indeed might  be  increased
 to any degree required.
               Yorkshire oat ale.
   Grind a quart of  oat malt, made with tne white
 sort, and dried with  coke, and  mash with forty-
 four gallons of cold soft water, let it stand twelve
 hours; then allow it to spend in a fine small stream,
 and put two pounds of fine pale hops, well rubbed
 between the hands,  into it; let it infuse, cold, for
 three hours, then strain and tun it; put yeast to it,
 and it  will work briskly for  about two days; then
 stop it up, and in ten days it will be fit to bottle.
 It drinks very smooth, brisk, and pleasant, and looks
 like white wine, but will not keep.
                 Cheap beer.
   Pour ten gallons of boiling water upon 1 peck of
 malt in a tub, stir it about well with a stick, let it
 stand about half an  hour, and then draw off the
 wort; pour 10 gallons more  of boiling water upon
 the malt, letting it remain another half hour, stir-
 ring it occasionally, then draw it off and put it to
 the former wort: when this is done, mix  4 ounces
 of hops witn  it, and boil  it well; then strain the
 hops from it, and when the wort becomes  milk-
 wann,  put some yeast  to it to make  it  ferment:
 when the fermentation is nea. ly  over, put  the li-
 quor into a cask, and as soon as  the  fermentation
 has perfectly  subsided, bung it  close  down—the
 beer is then fit for use.                '
      To make beer uiid ale from pea shells.
  No production of  this country abounds  so  much
with vegetable saccharine matter as  the shells of
green peas.   A strong decoction of them so much
resembles, in odour and taste, an infusion of malt
(termed vort)asto  deceive  a brewer.  This de-
coction, rendered slightly bitter with the wood sage,
and afterwards fermented with yeast, affords a very
excellent beverage.   The method employed is as
follows:
  Fill a boiler with the green shells of peas, pour
on water till it rises half an inch above the shells,
and simmer for three hours.   Strain oil'the liquor,
and add a strong decoction  of the wood  sage, or
the hop, so as to render it pleasantly  bitter; then
ferment in the usual manner.  The wood sage is
the best substitute for hops, and being free from
any anodyne property, is entitled to a preference.
 By boiling a fresh quantity of shells in  the decoct
 tion before it becomes cold, it may be so thorough-
 ly impregnated with saccharine matter, as to afford
 a liquor, when fermented, as strong as ale.
        Required lime for keeping beer.
  This depends on the temperature, at which  the
 malt has been made, as under. 
   Malt made at 119 degrees  will produce  beer
which mty be drawn in a fortnight—at 124  deg.
in a month—at 129 deg. in 3 do.—at 134 deg. in 4
do.—at 138 deg. in 6 do.—at 143 deg. in 8 do.—at
148  deg. in  10 do.—at 152 deg. in 15  do.—at  157
deg. in 20 do.—at 162 deg. in 24  do.
To give any required brightness or colour to beer.
   This depends on the temperature at which the
malt has been made,  and on its colour as under:
   Malt made at 119 degrees produces a white,—-at
124 deg.  a cream colour,—at 129 deg. a light yel-
low,—at 134 deg. an amber colour.
   These, when properly brewed, become  sponta-
neously fine, even as far as 138 degrees.   When
brewed for amber, by repeated fermentations, they
become pellucid.—At 138 degrees, a high amber.
—At 143 deg. a pale hi own.
   By precipitation, these grow bright  in a short
time.—At 148 deg. a brown.—At 152 deg.  a high
brown.
   With precipitation these require 8 or 10 months
to be bright.—At  157 deg. a brown, inclining to
black.—At 162 deg. a brown speckled with black.
   With precipitation these may be fined, but  will
never  become bright.—At  167 deg.   a  blackish
brown speckled with black.—At 171, a colour of
burnt coffee.—At 176, a black.
  These with difficulty can be brewed without set-
ting  the goods, and will by no means become bright
not even  with the strongest acid menstruum.
             To brew amber beer.
  Amber is now out of fashion, but formerly was
drank "in great quantities in London, mixed with
bitters, and  called purl.   The proportions of malt
were 3 quarters anfoer, and 1 quarter pale,  with 6
pounds of hops to the quarter.   The first liquor is
usually tunned at 170 degrees,  and the second at
18/ degrees.  The worts are boiled together for 2
hours.  It is tunned at  64 degrees, and. after 24
hours roused eveiy 2 hours, tilt the heat is increas-
ed to  74.   It is then skimmed every hour for  6
hours and cleansed, and generally used as soon  as
it has done working in the barrels.
Another  method of brewing amber beer, or two-
                     penny.
  For 36 gallons: malt,  1 bushel and a half, hops,
1 lb. liquorice root, 1 lb. 8 oz. treacle, 5 lbs. Spa-
nish liquorice, 2 oz. capsicum,  2 drachms;  fre?
quently drank the  week after it is brewed; used in
cold weather as a stimulant.
             To make molasses beer.
  For small beer, put nine pounds of molasses into
a barrel-copper of cold water, first mixing it well,
and boiling it briskly, with a quarter of a pound of
hops or more, one hour, so that it may come off 27
gallons.
                  To fine beer.
  To finebeer, should it be requisite, take an ounce
of isinglass, cut small, and boil it in three quarts
of beer, tijl  completely dissolved; let it stand  till
quite cold,  then put it into a cask, and  stir it well
with a stick or whfsk; the beer so fined should be
tapped soon, because the isinglass is apt to make it
flat as  well as fine.
  Another method.—Take a handful of salt, and the
same quantity of chalk scraped fine and well  dried;
then take some isinglass,  and  dissolve  it in some
stale beer till it is about the consistence of  syrup:
strain it, and add about aquartto the salt and  chalk,
with two quarts of molasses.  Mix them all well
together, with a gallon of the beer, which must be
drawn oft";  then put  it  into the cask,  and  take a
stick, or  whisk,  and stir it well  till it ferments.
When it has subsided, stop it up close, and  in two
days it may  be tapped. This is sufficient for a butt.
  Another.—Take  a  pint  of water, and half an
ounce of unslaked  lime, mix them well together,
 letting the mixture stand for i\vee hours, that the
 lime may settle at the bottom.  Then pour off the
 clear liquor, and mix with it half an ounce of isin-
 glass, cut small and boifod in a little water, pour
 it into the barrel, and in five or six hours the beei
 will become fine.
   Another.—In general, it will become sufficiently
 fine by keeping; but fineness may be  promoted by
 putting a handful of scalded hops into the cask. If
 the beer continues thick, it may then be  fined by
 putting a pint of the following preparation into the
 barrel.
   Put as much isinglass into a vessel  as will occu-
 py one-third; then fill it up with old beer.  When
 dissolved, rub it through a sieve, and  reduce it to
 the consistency of treacle with more beer.   A pint
 of this put into the cask and gently stirred with  a
 short stick, will fine  the barrel in a few hours.
              To fine cloudy  beer.
   Rack off the cask, and boil one pound of new hops
 in water, with coarse sugar, and when cold put in
 at the bung-hole.
   Or, new hops soaked in beer, and squeezed, may
 be "put into the cask.
   Or, take 10 lbs.  of baked pebblestone powder,
 with the whites of six eggs,  and some powdered
 bay-salt,  and mix them with 2 gallons of the  beer.
 Pour in the whole into the casks, and in three or
 four days  it will settle, and  the beer be fine and
 agreeable.
        To recover thick,  sour malt liquor.
   Make strong hop tea with boiling water and salt
 of tartar, and pour it into the cask.
   Or, rack the cask into two  casks of equal  size,
 and fill them up with new beer.
             To vamp malt liquors.
   Old beer may  be renewed by racking  one cask
 into two, and filling them from a new  brewing, and
 in three weeks it will be a fine article.
             To restore musty  beer.
   Run it through some hops that have been boiled
 in strong wort, and afterwards work it with double
 the quantity of new malt liquor: or if the fault is in
 the cask, draw it off into a sweet cask, and having
 boiled £ lb. of brown sugar in a quart of water, add
 a spoonful or two of  yeast before it is quite  cold,
j and when the mixture ferments, pour it into the
| cask.
        To enliven and restore dead beer.
   Boil some water and sugar,  or water and treacle,
 together, and when cold, add some new yeast; this
 will restore dead beer, or ripen  bottled beer in
 24 hours; and it will  also  make  worts work in the
 tun, if they are  sluggish.
   Or, a small tea-spoonful of  carbonate of soda
 may be mixed with a quart of it, as it is drawn for
 drinking.
   Or, boil for every  gallon of the liquor, 3 oz. of
 sugar in water; when cold, add  a little yeast, and
 put the fermenting  mixture  into  the  flat beer,
 whether it be afuHcask or the bottom of the  cask.
   Or, beer may often be  restored, which has be-
j come flat or stale, by railing and shaking the casks
 for a considerable time, which will create such  a
j new fermentation as to render it necessary to  open
I a vent-peg to prevent the cask from bursting.
 A speedy way of fining and preserving a  cask oj
                   ale, or beer.
   Take a  handful of the  hops boiled in the firsl
 wort, and dried, £ a pound of loaf sugar, dissolved
 in '.he beer, I  pound of  chalk, and ^ a pound of
 calcined oyster-shells.  Put  the whole in at the
 bung-hole, stirring them well and then re-bunging.
 This preparation will also suit for racked  beer; in
 putting in the hops it may be advisable  to place
 them in a net with  a small stone in the bottom so
 as t(» sink them, otherwise they will swim at the top 
116
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
            Improvement in brewing.
  It appears by the Monthly Magazine of July 1,
1823, that the process of fermentation, so import-
ant to the brewers and distillers, and otners of this
country, is destined to  undergo a very important
change,  in consequence of a  discovery  made in
France, whereby the practicability and advantage
of fermenting worts in close vessels has been fully
established.  Instead of using broad and open vats,
exposed fully to the atmospheric air, which  was
formerly thought essential to the first and princi-
pal process of fermenting  worts, a ouantity of al-
cohol, mixed with the aroma or flavouring princi-
ple of the wort, from 4^ to 5 per cent, of the whole
spirit which the wort is capable of yielding, after
rising in vapour along with the  carbonic gfs,'is
condensed and returned again into the wort, from
a kind of alembic, fixed  on the close top of the fer-
menting tun, and  connected therewith  only  by
means of pipes.
 . Messrs Gray  and Dacre, in their brewery at
West-Ham, in Essex, have adopted this new mode
of fermenting their wort, and the success attending
it is most complete.  One essential advantage  at-
tending the use ofa close vessel for fermenting, is
the being able to preserve a more equable temper-
ature in the wort, whereby neither the  heat of
summer nor the cold of winter are able to inter-
rupt or frustrate the process of complete fermen-
tation.   The exclusion of the oxygen of the at-
mospheric air, by the  same means, from cider,
perry, or British wines, whilst under the process
of fermentation, seems to  promise a still greater
improvement of the process than has attended the
use of this invention in  the fermenting of wines on
the continent.
            To recover beer when flat.
  Take four or five gallons out of a hogshead, boil
it with four or five pounds of honey, skim it well
when cold, and put it into the cask again—then
stop it up close, and it will make the liquor drink
strong and pleasant.
  Another method.—Take two ounces of new hops,
and a pound of chalk broken  into several pieces
—put them into the cask, and bung it up close.  In
three days it will be fit  to drink.  This is the pro-
per quantity for a kilderkin.
  Another method.—Take  a fine net, and put in it
about a pound of hop.i,  with a stone or something
heavy to sink it to the bottom of the cask.  This is
sufficient for a butt—but if the cask be less, use the
hops in proportion.  Tap it in six months: or, if
wanted sooner, put in  some hops that have been
boiled a short time in the first wort, either with or
without a net.
     To prevent beer becoming sidle and flat.
  First method.—To a quart of French brandy put
as much wheat or bean flour as will make it into  a
dough, and put it in, in long pieces, at the bung-
hole, letting it  fall gently to  the bottom.  This
will prevent the beer growing stale,  keep it in  a
mellow state, and increase  its strength.
  Second method.—To  a pound of treacle or  ho-
ney, add a  pound of the  powder of dried oyster
shells, or of soft mellow chalk—-mix these into  a
stiff paste, aud put it into the butt.  This will pre-
serve the beer in a soft and mellow state for a long
ti me.
  Third metlwd.—Dry a peck  of egg shells  in a^
oven—break and mix them with two pounds of
soft mellow chalk, and then add some water where-
in four pounds of coarse sugar have been boiled,
and put it into the cask.  This will be enougl'i for
a butt.
  Fourth method.—In a.cask, containing eight een
gallons of beer, put a pint of ground malt suspg nd-
ed in a bag, and close the bung perfectly;  the J> ser
will be improved during the whole time of draw-
ing it for use.                                 .
  "Make use of any of these receipts most approved
of, observing that the paste or dough  must  be put
into the cask when the beer has done working, or
soon after, and bunged down.  At the end of nine
or twelve months tap it, and you will  have a fine,
generous, wholesome, and agreeable liquor.
  When the great quantity of sediment that lies at
the bottom of the cask is neglected to be cleaned,
this  compound of malt, hops, and yeast so affects
the beer, that it partakes of all their corrosive qua-
lities, which render it prejudicial to health, gene-
rating various chronical and  acute diseases.  On
this account, during the whole process of brewing,
do not allow the least sediment to  mix with the
wort in removing it from .ne aib or cooler to the
other; specially be careful, when tunning it into
the cask, not to disturb the bottom of the working
tub, which would prevent its ever being clear and
fine.  Again, by keeping it too long in the work-
ing tub, persons who make a profit of the yeast fre-
quently promote an undue fermentation, and keep
it constantly in that state for five or six days; which
causes all the spirit that should keep the beer soft
and mellow to evaporate, and it will certainly get
stale and hard, unless it has something wholesome
to feed on.
  It  is the practice of some persons to beat in the
yeast, while the beer  is working, for several days
together, to make it strong and heady, and to pro-
mote its sale.  This is a wicked and pernicious
custom.  Yeast is of a very acrimonious arfd nar-
cotic quality, and when beat in for several days to-
gether,  the  beer thoroughly imbibes its hurtful
qualities.   It is not discoverable by the taste, but is
very intoxicating, and injures the whole nervous
system,  producing  debility and all  its  conse-
quences.  Therefore, let the wort have a free, na-
tural, and light fermentation, and  one day in the
working tub will belong enough during cold wea-
ther; but turn it the  second  day at the  furthest,
throw out the whole brewing, and afterwards  in-
troduce no improper ingredients.
   To prevent and cure foxing in malt liquors.
  Foxing, sometimes  called bucking, is a disease
of malt fermentation which taints  the beer.  Ii
arises from dirty utensils; puttingthe separate worta
together in vessels not too deep; using bad malt; by
turning on the liquors at too great heats, and brew-
ing in too hot weather.  It renders the beer ropy
and  viscid,  like treacle, and  it soon turns sour.
When there is danger of foxing, a handful of hops
should be thrown into the raw worts while they are
drawing off, and before they are boiled, as foxing
generally takes place when, from a scantiness of
utensils, the worts are  obliged  to be kept som?
time  before they are boiled.   When  there is a
want of shallow coolers, it is a good precaution tu
put some fresh hops into the worts, and work them
with the yeast.  If the  brewing foxes in the tun
while working, hops  should  then he  put into it,
and  they will tend to restore  it, and extra care
ought to be taken to prevent the lees being  trans-
ferred to the barrels.
   Some persons sift quick-lime  into the tun when
the brewing appears to be foxed.—If care  is  not
taken to cleanse and scald the vessels after foxing,
subsequent brewings may become tainted.
         Other methods of curing foxing.
   Cut a handful of hyssop small; mix it with  a
handful of salt, aud put it into the cask.   Stir and
stop close.
   Or  infuse a handful of hops, and a little salt of
tartar in boiling water; when cold, straiu the liquoi
off,  and pour it into the cask, whieh stop close
   Or  mix an ounce  of alum, with 2 oz. of mus» 
BREWING.
117
tard-seed,  and 1 oz.  of ginger; stir them in  the
sack, and stop close.
  Or, in a fortnight, rack off the foxed beer, and
hang 2  lbs. of bruised  Malaga  raisins in a bag
within' the cask, and put in  a mixture of treacle,
bean-flour, mustard-seed,  and powdered alum.
         To restore a barrel of ropy beer.
  Mix a handful of bean-flour with  a handful of
salt, and stir it in at the bung-hole: or take  some
weft infused hops, and mix them in with  some
settlings of strong wort, and stir the mixture in at
the bung-hole.  Or, powder half an ounce of alum
very fine, and  mix with a handful of bean-flour.
     To restore a barrel of stale,  or sour beer.
  Put a quarter ofa pound of good hc>Ms, and two
pounds of sound chalk into the bung-hole; stop it
close, and in a few days it will draw perfectly fresh.
Or, a small tea-spoonful of carbonate  of soda may
be mixed with eveiy quart as it is drank.
         To make a butt of porter, stout.
  Insert 4 gallons of molasses and some finings;
stir it well. In a week draw offthe cask by a cock
inserted  half way down.
             To restore frosted beer.
  Such  beer  is usually sweet and foul,  and will
never recover  of itself; but to remedy this, make
a pailful of fresh wort, into which put a handful of
rubbed hops, and boil them half an hour, so that
it may be very bitter,  and  when almost coid, draw
a pailful from  the cask, and re-fill it with the bit-
ter  wort.  Fermentation  will re-commence,  but
when this is over bung it up for  a month.  If it is
not then  restored,  rack  it  into another cask, and
put into it £ a  peck of parched wheat, and 1 lb. of
good hops, dried and rubbed, and tied up in a net.
Bung it down, leaving the vent-hole open for a day
or two, and in a month it will be fine liquor.
        To give new ale the flavour of old.
  Take out the bung, and put into the cask a hand-
ful of pickled cucumbers; or a sliced Seville orange,
and either mode will add  an apparent six months
to the age of the ale.
To protect malt liquors against the effects of elec-
                    tricity.
  As positive  electricity is nothing more than oxy-
genous gas, which, when  accumulated in conduc-
tors by electrical action, affects all fluids (as con-
ductors),  and  enclosed  fermented liquors among
the rt.st,  and as electrical action always takes place
among the best conductors, so fermented liquors,
whether  in casks or bottles, may be protected from
electrical action (vulgarly called  thunder) by plac-
ing on the  casks, or  over the  bottles, pieces or
rods of iron; and such have been  found, by experi-
ence, to serve  as a sufficient protection against this
pernicious influence.
           To give beer a rich flavour.
  Put six sea-biscuits into a bag of hops, and put
them into the  cask.
          To preserve brewing utensils.
  In cleaning  them before being put  away, avoid
the use of soap, or any greasy  material; and use
only a brush and scalding  water, jeing particularly
careful not to  leave any yeast or  fur on the sides.
  To prevent  their being tainted, take wood ashes
and boil  them  to a strong ley, which spread over
the bottoms of the vessels scalding, and then with
the broom scrub the sides and other parts.
  Or, take bay-salt, and spread it over the coolers,
and  strew  some on  their wet  sides, turning in
scalding  water and scrubbing with a broom.
  Or, throw some stone-lime into water in the ves-
sel, aud scrub  over the bottom and sides, washing
afterwards with clean water.
      To sweeten stinking or musty casks.
  Make a strong ley of ash, beech, or gther kard
wood-ashes, and pour it, boiling hot, into the bung-
hole, repeating it as often as there is occasion.
  Or, fill  the  cask with boiling water, and then
put into it some pieces of unslaked stone-lime,
keeping up the ebull.tion for half an hour.  Then
bung it down,  and let it remain until almost cold,
when turn it out.
  Or, mix bay-salt with boiling water, and pour it
into the cask,  which bung  down, and leave it to
soak.
  Or, if the copper be provided with a  dome, and
a steam pipe from its top, pass the steam into the
casks.
  Or, unhead the cask, scrub it out, head it again;
put some powdered charcoal into  the bung-hole,
and two quarts of a mixture of oil of vitriol and
cold water.  Then bung it tight, and roll  and turn
the cask for some time.  Afterwards wash it well,
and drain it dry.
  Or, take out the head, and brush the inside with
oil of vitriol, afterwards wash it,  then burn a slip
of brown paper steeped in brimstone within the
bung-hole, and stop  it close for two hours,  when
it should be well washed with hot water.
  Another method.—Mix half a pint of the sulphu-
ric acid (not the diluted) in an open vessel, with
a quart of water, and whilst warm, put it into the
cask,  and roll  it about in such a  manner that the
whole internal surface may be exposed to its ac-
tion.  The following day, add about one pound of
chalk, and bung it up for three or four days, when
it may be washed out with boiling water.  By this
process, a very musty cask may be rendered sweet.
  For sweetening  musty bottles,  it  will be only
necessary to rinse the inside with  the diluted sul-
phuric acid in the  above-mentioned proportions.
The addition of chalk, if it were immediately cork-
ed, would burst the bottle, and if the cask be old,
it would be advisable to let a little of the gas escape
before bunging it.
  Another.-,—Collect fresh cow dung and  dilute  it
with water, in which four pounds of salt and one
of common alum are dissolved. Let these be boiled
together, and  poured hot into the barrel,  which
must then be bunged and well shaken.  This ope-
ration should be performed  several times, taking
care to rinse the cask out every  time, with  clean
watei.
  Another.—If a cask, after the beer is drank out,
be well  stopped, to keep out the air, and the lees
be suffered to remain in it till used again, scald it
well, taking care that the hoops be well driven on,
before filling;  but should the air get into an empty
cask, it will contract an ill  scent,  notwithstanding
the scalding; in which case a handful  of bruised
pepper, boiled in the water, will remove it,though
the surest way is to take out the head of the cask,
that it may be  shaved;  then burn it a little, and
scald it for use; if this cannot be conveniently done,
get some lime-stone, put about three pounds into
a barrel (and in same  proportion for larger or
smaller vessels), put to it about six gallons of cold
water, bung it up, shake it  about for some time,
and afterwards scald it well.  Or, in lieu of lime,
match it well and scald it.  Then the smell will be
entirely removed.  If the casks be new, dig  holes
in the earth, and lay them in, to about half their
depth, with their  bung-holes  downwards, for  a
week. After which scald them well, and they will
be ready for use.
  Another.—The process of charring fails only in
the fire not being able to penetrate into the chasms
or chinks of the cask, into which  the coopers (to
mend bad work) often  insert strips of paper, or
other substance, to make it water-tight, which in
time become rotten and  offensive;  in order to re* 
 118                           UNIVERSAL 1

 medy this, put into a cask containing a quantity of
 water (say about 2 gallons in a hogshead) l-10th of
 its weight of sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol), and let
 this be shaken for some time;  this is to be poured
 Out, the cask well washed, and then rinsed with a
 few  gallons of lime-water.   It is needless to say,
 that it ought  likewise to be washed out.
  Sulphur mixed with a little  nitre, burnt  in a
 closed vessel, and then the subsequent process of
 lime-water, &c. would do, and perhaps as well.
  The theory is, that sulphuric  acid has the pro-
 perty,  when  used alone, of charring wood, and
 when diluted,  has  sufficient strength to destroy
 must, &c. with the additional advantage of entering
 into every crevice.   The  lime in solution seizes
 any particle of acid  which the  first washing might
 leave, and converts  it into an insoluble inoffensive
 neutral salt, such  as, if left in  the cask, would not
 in the least injure the most delicate liquor.
    London coopers' mode of sweetening casks.
  It is their system to take out the  head,  place
 the cask over a brisk fire, and char the inside com-
 pletely.   The  head is then put  in again, and the
 cask, before used, is filled two or three times with
 hot liquor, bunged down and well shaken, before it
 is used again.
        Method of seasoning new casks.
  Put the staves just cut and shaped, before  they
 are worked into vessels, loose  in a copper of cold
water,  and let  them heat gradually so  that  they
must be well boiled, and in boiling take out a hand-
bowl of water at a time, putting in fresh till all the
redness is out of the liquor,  and  it becomes clear
from a scum of filth  that will arise from the sap so
boiled out; also take care to  turn the staves upside
down, that all their  parts may equally have the be^
nefit of the hot water.  Observe also that in a dry,
sultry summer, the  sap is more  strongly retained
in  the wood, than  in a cool and moist one, and
therefore  must have the more boiling. Then, when
the vessel is made,  scald it  twice with water and
salt boiled together, and it may  be  readily filled
with strong beer without fearing  any twang  from
the wood.
          To keep empty vessels sweet.
  An eminent London brewer  is  so curious in this
 respect, that he makes use of a wooden bung,which,
 is  soon as he has put into  the vessel with  some
 irown  paper, he  directly covers  over with  some
 wood ashes mixed with water,  and puts it all about
 the  same,  with as  much care  as if the cask had been
 full of strong  beer, though it is done  only to keep
 the grounds sweet while they are so.   And thus a
 vessel may be preserved in sound order for nearly
 lali'aycar.
        Fermentation by various means.
  As yeast is nothing more than  fixed air combin-
 ed  with  mucilage thrown to  the top during fer->
 -nentation, and the use of yeast consists merely in
 Jiffusing by its means fixed air  through the mix-
 ture to be fermented; so whatever contains  fixed
 air which oai be communicated through  the mass,
 will cause good  fermentation, whether it  be in
 brewing or bread making.   Thus chemists have
 impregnated  infusions  with  gas  by an apparatus,
 and produced  good  beer, and a bottle, containing
 calcareous matter and oil of vitriol, Immersed in
 the fluid,  has caused effectual fermentation, and
 produced  all its results.
  First substitute for yeast.—Mix two quarts of
 water with wheat flour, to the consistence of thick
 gruel,  boil it  gently for naif an hour, and when ak
 most cold, stir into it half a pound of sugar and
 four spoonsful of  good yeast.  Put the whole Into
 a large jug, or earthen vessel with a narrow top,
 and place it before the tire, so that it may by a mo
 derate heat fermeut.   The fermentation will throw
ECEIPT  BOOR.

 up a thin liquor, which pour off and  throw away;
 keep the remainder for use (in a cool place) in a
 bottle, or jug tied over.   The sanW quantity of
 this, as of common yeast, will suffice to bake or
 brew with.   Four spoonsful of this yeast will make
 a fresh quantity as before, and the stock may be al-
 ways kept up by fermenting the new with the re-
 mainder of  the former quantity.
   Second substitute.—Take six quarts of  soft wa-
 ter and two handsful  of wheaten meal  or bailey;
 stir the latter in the water before the mixture is
 placed over the fire, where it must  boil till two-
 thirds are evaporated.  When this decoction be-
 comes cool   incorporate with it, by means  of a
 whisk, two drachms of salt of tartar, and I drachm
 of cream of tartar, previously mixed.  The whole
 should be kept  in  a warm  place.  Thus a very
 strong yeast for brewing, distilling, and baking,
 may be obtained.  For the last mentioned purpose,
 however, it  ought to be diluted with pure water,
 and passed through a sieve, before it is  kneaded
 with the dough, in: order to deprive it of its alka-
 line taste.
   In countries where yeast is scarce, it  is a com-
 mon practice to twist hazel twigs so as to be full of
 chinks, and  then to steep them in ale-yeast during
 fermentation.  The twigs are then hung up to dry,
 and at the next brewing they are put into the wort
 instead of yeast.  In Italy the chips are frequently
 put into turbid wine, for the purpose of clearing it.
 this is effected in about twenty-four hours.
   Third substitute —Take one pound of fine flour,
 make it the thickness of gruel with boiling water,
 add to it half a pound of' raw sugar.   Mix thera
 well together   Put three spoonsful of well purifi-
 ed yeast  into a laige vessel, upon which put the
 above ingredients: they  will soon ferment violent*
 ly.  Collect the yeast off the top and  put it into a
 brown small-neck pot, and cover it up from the air,
 keep it in a  dry and warmish place; when used in
 part, replace wjth flour made into a thin paste, and
 sugar in the former proportions: the above will be
 fit for use in five months, and no yeast is necessary
 except the first time.
  Fourth substitute.—Boil flour and water to the
 consistence of treacle, and when the mixture is cold
 saturate it with fixed air.  Pour the mixture, thus
 saturated, into one cr more large bottles or narrow
 mouthed  jars; cover it  over loosely  with paper,
 and upon that lay a slate or board with a weight to
 keep it  steady.  Place the vessel in a situation
 where the thermometer will stand from 70 deg. to
 80 deg. and stir up the mixture two or three times
 in the course of 24 hours.   In about two days, such
 a degree of  fermentation will  have taken place, as
 to give the mixture the appearance of yeast.  With
 the yeast in this state, and before it has acquired a
 thoroughly vinous smell, mix the quantity of flour
 intended tor bread, in the proportion of six pounds
 of flour to a quart of the yeast, and a sufficient por-
 tion of warm water.   Knead them well together in
 a proper  vessel, and  covering it with a cloth, let
 the dough stand for twelve hours, or till it appears
 to be sufficiently fermented in the  foremention-
 ed  degree  of warmth.  It is then  to be formed
 into loave's and baked.  The yeast would  be more
 perfect if a decoction  of malt were used instead of
 simple water.
  Fifth substitute.—A  decoction  of  malt alone,
 without auy addition, will produce a yeast proper
 enough for the purpose  of  brewing.   This disco-
 very was made by Joseph Senyor, and he received
 for it a reward of 201. from the Society for Promot-
 ing  Arts, Manufactures,  and Commerce.   The
 process is as follows: Procure  three earthen or
 wooden  vessels of different sizes and apertures,
 one capable of holding two quarts, the other tlu-ee. 
BREWING.
119
 or four, and the third five or six:  boil a quarter of
 a peck of malt for about eight or ten minutes in 3
 pints of water; and when a q^art is poured off from
 the grains, let it stand, in the first or smaller ves-
 sel,  in a cool place till not quite cold, but retaining
 that degree of heat which the brewers usually find
 to be proper when they begin to work their liquor.
 Then remove the vessel into some warm situation
 near a fire, where the thermometer stands between
 70 and  80 deg. Fahrenheit, and there let it remain
 till the fermentation begins, which will  be  plainly
 perceived within 30 hours; add  then two quarts
 more of a like decoction of malt, when cool as the
 first  was, and mix the whole in the second or larger
 vessel,  and stir it well in, which must be repeated
 in the usual way, as it rises in a comn >n vat: then
 add a still greater quantity of the same decoction,
 to be worked in the largest vessel, which will pro-
 duce yeast enough for a brewing of 40 gallons.
   Sixth substitute.—Boil one pound of good flour,
 a quarter of a pound of brown sugar, and  a little
 salt, in two gallons of water for one hour; when
 milk-warm, bottle  it and cork it close: it  will  be
 fit for use in twenty-four hours.   One pint of this
 will  make 18 lbs. of bread.
   Seventh substitute.—To a pound of mashed po-
 tatoes (mealy ones are best) add two ounces  of
 brown sugar, and two spoonsful of common yeast;
 the potatoes first to be pulped through a  cullender,
 and mixed, with warm water to a proper consist-
 ence.   Thus a pound of potatoes will make a quart
 of good yeast.   Keep it moderately warm  while
 fermenting.  >
  Eighth  substitute.—Infuse malt, and  boil it  as
 for beer; in the mean  time, soak isinglass, sepa-
 rated to fibres, in small beer.  Proportion the
 quantity of each, 1 ounce of isinglass to two quarts
 of beer.  This would suffice  for a  hogshead of
 boiling wort, and the proportion may be diminish-
 ed or increased accordingly.   After soaking five
 minutes, set the  beer  and isinglass on  the  fire,
 stirring till it  nearly boils.   Then turn it  into a
 dish  that will  allow beating it up with a syllabub
 wh:sk, to  the  consistence of yeast,  and when al-
 most cold, put it to the wort.
  Ninth substitute.—Make a wort of the  consist-
 ence of water gruel, with either rye or malt, ground
 very fine;  put 5 gallons of it into a vessel capable
 of holding a few  gallons more; dissolve 1 pound
 of leaven in a small portion of the wort, and add it
 to the remainder with 2£ pounds of fine ground
 malt; mix the whole by agitation for some minutes,
 and in half an  hour add two  large  spoonsful of
 good yeast; incorporate it thoroughly with the mass,
 cover it close and let it remain undisturbed for forty
 eight hours in a moderate temperature;  at the end
 of that period it will be found to be wholly con-
 verted into good yeast.  It is  requisite that the
 rye  and malt  should be fine, and the leaven com-
 pletely dissolved before being put to the remaining
 wort, which, previous to the yeast  being added,
 should be at about 100 deg. Fahrenheit.— j'rans-
 aetions of tlie  Economical Society of Petersburg.
               To preserve yeast.
  Common ale yeast may be kept fresh and fit for
 use several months by the following method:  Put
a quautity of it into a close canvass bag, and gen' ly
squeeze out the moisture in a screw-press till the
remaining matter be as firm and stiff as clay.  In
this state it may ue close  packed up in a tight cask
for securing it from the air; and will keep fresh,
sound, and fit for use, for a long time.  This is a se-
 cret that might be of great use to the brewers and
 distillers, who, though they employ very large quan-
tities of yeast, seem to know no method of preserv-
ing it or raising nurseries of it; for want of which
they  sustain a  very considerable loss;  whereas the
 brewers in Flanders make a very great advantage
 of supplying the malt distillers of Holland  with
 yeast, which is rendered lasting and fit for carriage
 by this easy  expedient.
   Another method.—Stir a quantity of yeast and
 work  it well with a  whisk, till it  seems liquid
 and thin.  Then get a large wooden dish or tub,
 clean and dry, and with a soft brush lay a thin layei
 of yeast thereon, turning the  mouth downward^
 to prevent its getting dust, but  so that the air may
 come to it to dry it.   When that coat or crust is
 sufficiently dried, lay on another,  which serve  in
 the same manner, and  continue putting on others
 as they dry, till two  or three inches thick, which
 will be useful on many  occasions.   But be  sure
 the yeast in the vessel  be drv before  more be laid
 on.  When wanted for use,  cut a piece out, lay it
 in warm water,  stir  it together, and it will be fii
 for use.  If for  brewing, take  a handful of birch
 tied together, dip it into the yeast, and hang  it to
 dry, taking care  to keep it free  from dust.  When
 the beer is fit to set to work, throw in one of these
 and it will work as well  as  fresh yeast.  Whip it
 about in the wort and then let  it lie.  Wheu the
 beer works well take out the broom,  dry it again,
 and it will do for the next brewing.
              To restore bad yeast.
   Mix with it a little flower, sugar, salt, brandy,
 and beer, and these will confer  on it  the qualities
 of gpod yeast.  Good yeast  may also be  made by
 adding the same mixture to the grounds of ale.
             To make purl bitters.
   Take of Roman wormwood  two dozen pounds,
 gentian root six p unds, calamus aromaticus (or the
 sweet flag root) two pounds, snake rooc one pound,
 horse radish one  bunch, orange peel dried  and
juniper berries, each two pounds, seeds or kernels
 of Seville oranges cleaned and dried  two pounds.
 Cut these, and bruise  them, and put them  into a
 clean butt, and start  some mild  brown or pale beer
 upon them, so as to fill up the vessel,  about the be-
 ginning of November,  which let stand till the next
 season.  If a pound or two of galanga root is added
 to it, the composition will be better.
    Cautions in the use of foreign ingredients.
  In general, the beer  should be racked off first,
 because the sediments and lees will not accord with
 the foreign substances.—Salt and alum in too large
 quantities induce staleness.  The powder of soft
 stone, unburnt, should be avoided; too many whites
 of eggs are apt to make the beer ropy.   The intro-
 duction of  cocculus indicus  confers  a pernicious
strength or headiness,  which gratifies drunkards,
but destroys the nervous system, and produces pal-
sies and premature old age.  It has been well re-
marked, that the brewer that uses this  slow, but
certain poison, as a substitute for a due quantity of
malt, ought to be boiled in his own copper.
  Bitters are in like  manner pernicious in many
states of the stomach. W hen oyster shells are used,
the bung should be left out to avoid bursting.
            Use of sugar in brewing.
  Families brewing their own malt liquor may use
thirty-two pounds of  brown sugar with two bushels
of malt, which will produce 50  gallons of ale, as
good in every respect as if made from six bushels
of malt, effecting a saving  of 31s.  8d.   The sugar
is mixed with the wort as it runs from the mash-
tub.
         To close casks without bungs.
  Some persons cover the bung-hole  simply with
brown  paper, fastened  at the sides,  and covered
with clay: others have found a single piece of blad-
der, well fixed at the edges, a complete anil effica-
cious substitute for Dungs.  These methods at least
prevent the bursting of the cask from changes ol 
120
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
             To bottle porter, ale, &c.
    In the first  place, the  bottles  should be clean,
  sweet, and dry, the corks sound and good, and the
  porter or ale fine.   When the bottles are filled, if
  for home consumption, they should not be corked
  till the day following; and if for  exportation  to a
  hot climate, they must stand three days or more:
  if the liquor  is new, it should be  well corked
  and wired; but for a private family they may  do
  without wiring, only they should be well packed
  in sawdust, and stand upright.   But if some ripe j
  are wanted, keep a few  packed on their  sides, so
  that the liquor  may touch the corks—and this will j
  soon ripen, and make it fit for drinking.  ,
    To ripen porter and ale, if flat when bottled.
   When about  to fill the bottles, put into each  of'
  them a tea-spoonful of raw brown sugar—or two
  tea-spoonsful of rice wheat—or six raisins.
                To remove tartness.
   Put a tea-spoonful  of carbonate of soda into a
  quart of tart beer, and  it will be pleasant and whole-
  some.
               To bottle malt liquor.
   It should be ripe, and not too young.  Cork loose
  at first, and afterwards firm.  For a day or two,
  keep the bottles in cold water, or in a cold place;
  or throw  some  cold water over them.  Steep the
  corks in scalding water, to make them  more elas-
  tic.  Lay the bottles on  their sides.  When it  is
 desired that the liquor should ripen soon, keep the
 bottles in a warmer place.  October beer should
 not be bottled  till Midsummer; nor March beer
 till Cnristmas.   If the ale is flat, or stale, put 3
 horse-beans, or 3 raisins into each bottle, and  to
 prevent the bottles bursting, make a hole in the
 middle of the cork with an awl;  or put into each
 bottle, one or two  pepper corns.  If  it is desired.
 to ripen it quick, boil some coarse sugar in water,
 and when cold,  ferment  it with yeast.  Then put
 3 or4 spoonsful of it, with two cloves, and if kept
 in a warm place,  it  will be ripe the next day. I
 When the ale is sour, put into it a little syrup of
 •capillaire, and ferment it with yeast; when settled,
 bottle it, and put a clove or two with a small lump
 of sugar into-each bottle.   It is also useful to put 2
 <or-3 pieces of chalk, or some powdered chalk,  into
 ifhe barrel before bottl ing.
               7« bottle table beer.
   As soon as a cask of table beer is received  into
 the lionise, it is drawn oiff into quart stone bottles,
■with a lump of white su:*ar in each, and  securely
corked.  In'three <lays it becomes brisk, is equal
in strength to  table ale, remarkably pleasant, very
wholesome, and will keep many months.
           To render  bottled  beer ripe.
   The following method is employed in Paris, by
 some venders of bottled beer, to render it what they
 term ripe.—It is merely by adding to each bottle
 3 or 4 drops of yeast, and a lump of sugar, ot the
 size of a large nutmeg.  In the  course  of twenty-
 ifour  hours, by this .addUion, stale or flat beer  is
 -rendered  most agreeably brisk.   In  consequence
 of the fermentative process that takes place in it, a
 small deposit follews, and on  this account the bot-
 tles shou'd be kept in  an  erect position.  By this
 means white wine may likewise be rendered brisk.
           To manage ale in the cellar.
   In general, nothing is more  necessary than  to
 keep it well stopped in a cool cellar, looking oc-
 casionally to  see that  there is no  leakage, and to
 open the'vent-holes, if any oozings appear between
 the staves of the stacks: but connoisseurs  in malt
 liquor may adopt  some of the following means;
 leave the cock-hole of an upright cask, or the vent-
 hole of an horizontal one,  open for 2 or 3 months;
 then rack off into another casn with 1 or 2 pounds
 of new hops,  and closely  bung and stop down.
  Or, leave the vent-holes open a month; then stop
and about a month before tapping, draw off a little,
and mix it with 1 or 2 lbs.  of new hops, which
having poured into the cask, it is again closely stop-
ped.
  Or, salt may be used with the hops, as it always:
gives beer the flavour of age.
           To keep hops for future use.
  Hops lose all their fine flavour by exposure to the
air and damp.  They should be kept in a dry close
place, and lightly packed.
             TO MAKE CIDER.

  After the apples are gathered from tne trees,
they are ground into what  is  called pommage,
either by means ofa common pressing stone, with
a circular trough, or by a cider mill, which is either
driven by the hand, or by horse power. When the
pulp is thus reduced to a  great  degree of fineness,
it is conveyed to the cider press, where it is formed
by pressure into a kind of cake, which is called
the cheese.
  This is effected by placing clear sweet straw, or
hair cloths, between the  layers of pommage, till
there is a pile of ten or-twelve  layers.  This pile
is then subjected to different degrees of pressure in
succession, till all the must, or  juice,  is squeezed
from the pommage.  This juice, after being strained
in a coarse hair-sieve, is then put either into open
vats or close casks, and the pressed pulp is either
thrown away, or made to yield a weak liquor call-
ed washings.
  After the liquor has undergone the  proper fer-
mentation in these close vessels, which may be best
effected in a temperature of from forty to sixty de-
grees of Fahrenheit, and which  may be known by
its appearing tolerably clear, and  having a vinous
sharpness upon  the  tongue, any farther  fermenta-
tion must be stopped by racking off the pure part
into open vessels, exposed for a day  or two in a
cool situation.   After  this the liquor must again be
put into casks, and kept in a cool place during win-
ter.  The proper time for racking may  always be
known by thebrightness of the liquor, the discharge
of the fixed air, and the appearance ofa thick crust
formed of fragments of the reduced pulp.  The li-
quor should always be racked off anew, as often as
a hissing noise is heard, or as it extinguishes a can-
dle held to the bung-hole.
  When a favourable vinous fermentation has been
obtained, nothing more is required than to fill up
the vessels every two or three weeks, to supply the
waste by fermentation.  On the beginning of March,
the liquor will be bright and pure, and fit for final
racking, which  should be done in fair weather.
When the bottles are  filled, they should be set by
uncorked  till morning, when the corks must be
driveu in  tightly, secured by wire  or twine  and
melted rosin, or any similar substance.
           To make Devonsldre cider.
  Prefer the bitter sweet apples, mixed with mild
sour, in the proportion of one-third.  Gather them
when ripe, and  lay them in heaps in the orchard.
Then take them to the crushing engine,  made ot
iron rollers at top and of stone beneath; after pass-
ing through which, they are received into large
tubs or cives, and are then called pommage.  They
are afterwards laid on the vat in alternate layers of
the pommage and clean straw, called reeds. They
are then pressed, the juice running through a hair
sieve.  After the cider is pressed out,  it is put into
hogsheads, where it remains for two or three days
previously  to fermenting.  To stop  the  fermenta-
tion, it is drawn off into a clean vessel;  but if the
fermentation be very strong, two or three cans of 
CIDER.
121
eider are put into a  clean vessel, and a matcli of
brimstone burnt in it: it is then agitated,by which
the  fermentation of that quantity  is completely
stopped.  The vessel is then nearly filled, the fer-
mentation of the whole is checked, and the cider
becomes fine: but if, on the first operation, the fer-
mentation is not checked, it is repeated  till it is
so, and continued from time to time til! the cider
is in a quiet state for drinking.
   Some  persons, ii.stead  of  deadening  a  small
■quantity with a match, as above directed, put from
one  to two pints of an article  called stum (bought
of the wine coopers) into-each hogshead: but the
system of lacking as often as the fermentation  ap-
pears, is generally preferred by the cider manufac-
turers of Devonshire.
   About six sacks, or twenty-four bushels of  ap-
ples, are used  for a hogshead of sixty-three gal-
lons.  During the process, if the weather is warm,
it will be necessary to carry it on in the shade, in
the open air, and by every means keep  it as cool
as possible.
   Iu  nine months it will be in condition  for bot-
tling or drinking; if it continues thick, use some
isinglass finings, and if at any time it ferments and
threatens acidity, the cure is to rack it and  leave
the head and sediment.
                 Scotch method.
  The apples are reduced to mucilage, by beating
them in  a  stone trough  (one of  those  used at
pumps tor watering horses) with pieces of ash-
poles, used in the manner that potatoes are mashed.
The press consists  of a  strong box, three feet
square, and  twenty inches deep,  perforated  on
each side with  small auger or gimblet holes.  It
is placed  on a frame of wood,  projecting  three
inches beyond the base of the  box.  A  groove is
cut in this projection one inch and a half wide, and
one inch deep, to convey  the juice  when  pressed
out of the box into a receiving pail.   This opera-
tion  is performed in  the following manner.  The
box is filled alternately with strata  of fresh straw
and mashed fruit, in the proportion of one inch of
straw to two inches of mucilage: these are piled up
a foot higher than the top of the box; and care is
taken in packing the box itself, to keep the fruit
and  straw about  one inch  from  the sides of  the
box, which allows the juice to escape freely.  A
considerable  quantity of the liquor will  run  off
without any  pressure.  This must be applied gra-
dually at first, ind increased regularly towards  the
conclusion.   A box of the  above  dimensions will |
require about two tons weight to render the resi- |
duum completely free from juice.
   [The residuum is excellent food for  pigs, and
peculiarly acceptable to them.]
  The necessary pressure is obtained very easily,
and in a powerful manner, by the compound lever
pressing upon a lid  or sink made of  wood  about
two inches thick, and rendered sufficiently strong
by two cross-bars.  It  is made to fit the opening
of the box exactly; and as the  levers force the  lid
down,  they are occasionally slacked or taken off,
and blocks of wood are placed on the top of the
lid, to permit the levers to act, even after the  lid
has entered the box  itself.   Additional blocks are
repeated, until  the whole juice is extracted.  The
pressure may be increased more or less,  by adding
or diminishing the weight suspended at the extre-
mity cf the lever.
  The liquor thus obtained is allowed to stand un-
disturbed  twelve hours, in open vessels, to deposit
sediment.   The pure juice is then  put into clean
casks, and placed in a proper situation to ferment,
the temperature being  from fifty-five to sixty de-
grees.  The  fermentation will commence sooner
or later, depending chiefly on the temperature of
      Q
the apartment where the liquor is  kept; in most
cases,  during the first  three or four days; but
sometimes it will require more than a week to be-
gin this process.  If the fermentation begins early
and proceeds rapidly, the liquor must be racked
off, and put into fresh casks in two or three  days;
but if  this does not take place at an early period,
and proceeds stowly, five or  six days may elapse
before it is racked.   In general, it is necessary to
rack the liquor at least twice.  If,notwithstanding,
the fermentation continues briskly, the  racking
must be repeated; otherwise  the vinous fermenta-
tion,  by  proceeding too far,  may terminate in
acetous fermentation, when vinegar would be the
result.
  In racking off the  liquor it is necessary to keep
it free  of sediment, and the scum or yeast produced
by the fermentation.  A supply of spare liquor
must be reserved to fill up the barrels occasionally,
while the fermentation continues. As soon as this
ceases, the barrels should be bunged up closely,
and the bungs covered with  rosin, to prevent the
admission of air.   If the cider is weak, it should
remain in the cask about nine months; if strong,
twelve or eighteen months is necessary before  it
should be bottled.—Farmer's Mag. Vol. IX.
          To manage cider and perry.
  To fine and  improve  the flavour of one hogs-
head, take a  gallon of good French brandy, with
half an ounce of cochineal, one pound of alum, and
three pounds of sugar-candy; bruise them  all well j
in a mortar, and  infuse them in the brandy for a
day or two; then mix the whole with the cider, and
stop it close for five or six months.  After which,
if fine, bottle it off.
  Cider  or perry, when bottled  in hot weather,
should be left a day or two uncorked, that K may
get flat; but if too flat in the cask, and soon wanted
tor use, put into each bottle a small lump or two
of sugar-candy, four  or five raisins of the sun, or a
small piece of  raw beef; any of which will much
improve  the liquor, and make it brisker.
  Cider  should  be well corked and waxed, and
packed upright in a cool place.   A few bottles
may always be kept in  a warmer place to ripen
and be ready for use.
       To make cheap cider from raisins.
  Take fourteen pounds of raisins with the stalks;
wash them out in four or five  waters, till the water
remains  clear;  then put them into a clean cask
with the  head out, and put six gallons of good wa-
ter upon them; after which cover it well up, and
let it stand ten days.  Then rack it off into another
clean, cask, which has a brass cock in it, and in
four or five days time it will be fit for bottling.
When  it has been  in the bottles seven  or eight
days,  it  will be fit  for  use.  A little colouring
should be added when putting  into the  cask the
second time.   The raisins may afterwards be used
for vinegar.
                To  make perry.
  Perry is made after the same manner as cider,
only from pears,  which must  be quite dry.  The
best pears lor this purpose are such  as are  least fit
for eating, and the redder they are the better.
             Observations on cider.
  From the great diversity of soil and climate in
the United States of America, and the almost end-
less variety of its apples, it follows  that much di-
versity of  taste and flavour  will necessarily  be
found in the cider that is made from them.
  To make good  cider the following general, but
important rules should  be attended to.  They de-
mand a little  more trouble than the ordinary mode
of collecting and mashing apples of all sorts, rot-
ten  and sound, sweet  and sour, dirty and clean,
from the tree and the soil, and the rest of the slov- 
122
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
enly process usually employed; but in return they
produce you  a wholesome, high  flavoured, sound
and  palatable liquor, that  always commands  an
adequate price, instead of a solution of " villainous
compounds," in a poisonous and acid  wash, that
no man in his senses will drirk.  The finest cider
I ever tasted, was made of an equal portion of ripe,
sound, pippin and crab  apples, paved,  cored, and
pressed, &c. with the utmost nicety.  It was equal
in flavour to any champagne that ever was made.
         General rules for making cider.
  1. Always choose perfectly ripe and sound fruit.
  2. Pick  the apples by hand.  An active boy,
with a bag slung over his shoulders, will soon clear
a tree.  Apples that have lain any time on the soil,
contract  an earthy taste,  which whi  always  be
found in  the cider.
  3. After sweating, and  before  being  ground,
wipe them  dry, and if any are found bruised  or
rotten, put them in a heap by themselves,  for  an
inferior cider to make vinegar.
  4. Always use  hair cloths, instead of straw, to
place between the layers of pommage.  The straw
when heated, gives  a  disagreeable  taste  to the
cider.
  5. As the cider runs from the  press, let  it pass
through a hair sieve into a large open vessel, that
will hold as much juice as can  be expressed in one
day.  In a  day, or sometimes less, the pumice will
rise to the top,  and  in  a short time  grow very
thick:  when little white  bubbles break through it,
draw off the liquor by a  spigot, placed about three
inches from the  bottom, so  that the lees  may be
left quietly behind,
  6. The cider must be drawn off into very clean
Bweet  casks, and closely watched.  The  moment
the white bubbles before mentioned are perceived
rising at  the bung-hole,  rack it again.  When the
fermentation is completely at an end,  fill up the
cask with cider, in all  respects  like that  already
contained in  it, and bung it up tight; previous to
which a tumbler  of sweet oil may be poured into
the bung-hole.
  Sound, well made cider, that has been produced
as  described, and without any  foreign mixtures
excepting  always  that  of  good cogniac brandy,
(which added to it in the proportion of one gallon
       TO MAKE  BRITISH WTNES.
  The different processes in wine  making, range
themselves under the following heads:
  Gathering the fruit, picking the fruit, bruwing
the fruit, and vatting the fruit.
  Vinous fermentation, flavouring the wine, draw-
ing the must, pressing the husk, caskingthe must.
  Spirituous fermentation, racking the wine, fining
the wine, bottling and corking the wine.
              Gathering the fruit.
  Fruit of every sort, says Mr Carncll, in his ex-
cellent treatise on wine making, should be  gather-
ed in fine  weaiher; those  of the berry kind often
appear ripe to the  eye  before  they  are  really so,
therefore it is  requisite tr taste them several times
in order to ascertain that  they are arrived at the
crisis of maturity.  If the fruit be not ripe, the wine
will be harsh and hard, unpleasant to the  palate, I
to thirty, greatly improves it) is a pleasant, cool-
ing and useful beverage.   A\ hile on the contrary,
the acid and nasty wash that has passed through
leaden pipes, and been otherwise  carelessly and
unskilfullv made, is  a perfect  poison, producing
colic, and  not  unfrequently,  incurable  obstruc-
tions.
             TO MAKE PUNCH.

  For a gallon of punch  take  six fresh Sicily le-
mons—rub  the  outsides  of them well over with
lumps of double refined loaf sugar, until they be-
come quite yellow; throw the lumps into the bowl;
roll your lemons well on a clean plate or table, cut
them in half and squeeze them with  a proper in-
strument over the sugar; bruise the sugar, and con-
tinue to add fresh portions of it, mixing the lemon
pulp and juice well with it—much of the goodness
of the punch will depend upon this.   The quantity
of sugar to be added, should be  great enough  to
render the mixture without water pleasant to the
palate even of a  child.   When this is obtained, add
gradually a small quantity of hot water, just enough
to render the sirup thin  enough to pass through
the strainer—mix all well together, strain it, and
try if there be  sugar enough:  if at  all  sour a'dd
more.  When cold nut in a little cold water, and
equal quantities of the best cogniac brandy and old
 Jamaica rum, testing its strength by that infallible
guide the palate.  A glass of calf's foot jelly av'.ded
to the sirup when warm,  will not injure its  quali-
ties.
  The great secret of making good punch may be
given in a few words; a great deal  of fresh lemon
 juice—more than enough of  good sugar—a fair
proportion  of brandy and  rum,  and very  little
water.
                 To make nectar.
  Put half a pound of loaf sugar into a large porce-
lain jug; add one pint of cold water; bruise and stir
the sugar till it is completely dissolved; pour over it
half a bottle of hock and  one bottle of madeira-
mix  them well  together,  and grate in half a nut-
meg, with a drop or two of the  essence of lemon—*
set the jng in a  Ducket of ice for one hour,
 and more so the stomach; it will also require more
 spirit and saccharine, and take a longer time to be
 fit for the table.   If the fruit be too ripe, the wine
 from it will be faint, low, and vapid; it will not be
 strong  and generous; it will also require more
 trouble, additional spirit, and expense.
                    Picking.
   Detach the unripe and bad berries: the result,
 when the wine is drank, will be greatly superior
 in richness.  Pick stalks from grapes, currants, and
 gooseberries, previously  to their being placed in
 the vat.
                    Bruising.
   The quantity of fruit for making a vintage of do-
 mestic wine, is not so large  but it may be bruised
 in a tub, and from thence removed into the vat, or
 it the  quantity be very small, it may be bruised in
I the vat.  While the fruit is picking by one person,
WINES. 
WINES.
123 .
another may pruise it, and as it is bruised, remove
it into the vat.  When Malaga or Smyrna raisins
are used, they are to bj put  into the vat with  the
water, to soak, and the f, 'lowing day taken out and
bruised, then returned into the vat again.
                    Vatting.
   The first thing to be done is to place the guard
against the tap-l.ole, to prevent the husks escaping
at the time the must or extract is drawn off. When
all the fruit  is in the vat the water should be added,
and the contents stirred with the vat-staff, and left
to macerate  until the next day, when sugar, tartar,
&c. diluted  with some of the liquor, is to be put in-
to the  vat, and the whole again stirred up.   The
place where the vat is situated should have a free
circulation of air, and a temperature of not less than
58 degrees.   If the vinous fermentation do not take
place in a reasonable time, the  contents must  be
often stirred, and the place made warmer.
              Vinous fermentation.
   The time ofa vinous fermentation commencing
»s always uncertain; it depends much on the qual-
ity and quantity of the contents of the vat, on  its
local situation, on the season or weather, and most
particularly on the  greenness or ripeness of the
fruit.  To produce a medium vinous fermentation,
the vats and contents ought to be placed in a tem-
perature from 60 to 70  degrees.  And if this is
found not to produce fermentation in a short time,
the temperature of the place must be made warm-
er, and the  vat often stirred with the vat-staff.
   The commencement of the  vinous fermentation
maybeknown by plungingthe thermometer^ntothe
middle of the vat, for a  minute, and  when  taken
out, if a fermentation has commenced, the tempe-
rature of the  contents will be higher than at the
place where the vats are situated.   When the vi-
nous fermentation begins, it is very conspicuous,
and may be known by its taste, smell, appearance,
and effects.   The  contents  will first gently  rise,
and swell with a slight movement and a little hiss-
ing.  A considerable motion will take place, and
the contents will increase in heat and bulk,  while
a quantity of air escapes.
   It is impossible to lay down an exact time for a
vinous fermentation;  but for eighteen gallons, two
or three days are generally  sufficient  for white
wines; and red wines require a day or two more.
              Flavouring the wine.
   \\ hen the vinous fermentation is about half over,
the flavouring ingredients are to be put into the vat
and well stirred into the contents.  If almonds form
a component part, they are first  to be beaten to a
  Saste and mixed with a  pint or  two of  the must.
  lutmegs, cinnamon, ginger, seeds, &c. should, be-
fore they are put into the vat, be reduced  to pow-
der, and mixed with some of the must.
               Drawing the must.
   When the  must  in the vat gives, by tasting, a
 stron«-  vinous pungency, that is the period to stop
 the  remaining slight fermentation by drawing off
the  must, in  order  to  have strong and generous
wine.
   A cock, or spicket and faucet is to be  put into
the tap-hole of the vat, and the must drawn off and
put into open  vessels, there to remain till the pres-
 sing is finished.
               Pressing t/ie husk.
   As soon as  all  the must  is drawn off from the
vat, the husks are to be nut into hair-bags, and the
mouth of the  bag is to  be well fastened,  then put
into the press, and the whole pressed without de-
lay.  The must that is pressed out is to be mixed
with the must that was drawn  off from  the vat.
 Many ways may be contrived for pressing a small
 vintage, for those persons who cannot afford to
 purchase a  proper wine-press; but several  wines do
 not require pressing: and may be strained through
 a sweet, clean, canvass bag, made with n pointed
 end downwards.
                Casking the must.
   Each cask is to be filled within about an inch of
 the bung-hole, which should be covered over light-
 ly with a flat piece of wood.  The  rniiot now is
 perfectly cool  and calm, and will remain  in  this,
 state until the spirituous fermentation commences.
             Spirituous fermentation.
   The spirituous fermentation is essentially neces-
 sary  to the  clarification, goodness, and perfection
 of the wine.  If the vinous fermentation has been
 well  conducted, and the wine cellar be not too cold,
 a spirituous fermentation will commence in a few
 days, and abate in six or twelve days, the time de-
| pending  on circumstances, and  on the quality and
I quantity of the wine.  The brandy or spirit assign-
j ed should at this time be put to the wine by pour-
| ing it in gently without disturbing the wine.  The
 cask now, if not full, must be filled up and bunged
 with a wooden bung covered with a  piece  of  new
 canvass larger than the bung.   In about a month
 after the spirit has been added, the cask will again
 want filling up, this should be done  with the over-
' plus of the vintage, if not with some other good
j wine, and the cask re-bunged  very tight.
   The cask should be pegged once a month or of-
 tener to see if the wine be clear and not thick, and
 as soon a. it is fine and bright, it must be racked
 off its lees.
                Racking the wine.
   This is an operation highly requisite  to the keep-
 ing wine good; to its purification, strength, colour,
 brilliancy, richness, and flavour, and is performed
 by drawing off the wine and leaving  the lees in the
 cask.  A siphon should be used r but if not, the
 cask should be tapped two or three days previous-
 ly.   It may be racked off into another cask, or into
 a vat or tub, and returnpd into the same cask again,
j after it has been well cleaned:  and, if requisite, the
 cask  may be slightly fumigated, immediately be-
 fore the Avine is returned into it.  If the wine, on
 being tasted, is found weak, a little  spirit is to be
 given to it, the cask filled up and bunged tight.
   The racking off ought to be performed in tempe-
 rate  weather, and as soon as the wines appear clear,
 a second racking will make them perfectly brilliant,
 and if so, they will want no fining.
)                    Fining.
   Many wines require fining before they are rack-
 ed, and the operation of fining is not always neces-
 sary.   Most wines, well made, do not want fining;
 this may be ascertained by drawing  a little into a
 glass, from a peg-hole.
   One of the best finings is as follows:—Take one
 pound of fresh marsh-mallow roots,  washeil clean,
 and cut into small pieces; macerate  them  in  two
 quarts of soft  water, for twenty-four  hours, ihen
 gently boil the liquor down  to three half pints,
 strain it,  and when cold mix with  it  half an ounce
 of pipe-c'.ay or chalk in powder, then pour the mu-
 cilage into the cask, and stir up the  wine so as not
 to disturb the lees, and leave the vent-peg out for
 some days after.
   Or, take  boiled  rice, two  table-spoonsful, the
 white of one new egg, and half  an ounce of burnt
 alum, in  powder.   Mix with a pint  or more of the
 wine, then pour the mucilage  into  the cask, and
 stir the wine with a stout stick,  but not to  agitate
 the lees.
   Or, dissolve, in a gentle heat, half an ounce of
 isinglass  in a pint or more of  the  wine, then  mix
 with it half an  ounce of chalk, in powder; wher
 vhe two  are well  incorporated, pour  it into the
 cask, and stir  the  wine, so as  not  to disturb tha
! lees. 
124
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
   As soon as wines are clear and bright, after be-
 ing fined down, they ought to be racked  into a
 sweet anil clean cask, the cask filled up and bung-
 ed tight.
              Bottling and corking.
   Fine  clear weather is best for bottling all  sorts
 of wines, and much cleanliness is required.   The
 first consideration, in bottling wines, is to examine
 and  see if the wines are in a proper state.   The
 wines should be fine and brilliant, or they will
 never brighten after.
   The bottles must be all sound, clean and dry, with
 plenty of good sound corks.
   The_ cork is to be put  in with the hand, and then
 driven well in with a flat wooden mallet, the weight
 of which ought to be a pound and a quarter, but
 however, not to exceed a pound and a half,  for if
 the mallet be too light or too heavy it will not
 drive the cork in properly, and may break the bot-
 tle.   The corks must so completely fill up the neck
 of each bottle as to render them air tight, but leave
 a  space of an inch between the wine and the cork.
   When all the wine  is bottled, it is to  be  stored
 in a cool cellar, and on no account  on the bottles'
 bottoms,  but on their sides and in saw-dust.
          Apparatus for wine making.
   To make wine  well, and  with  facility, persons
 should have all the requisite apparatus, namely, the
 vats,  vat-staff, fruit-bruiser, strainer, hair-bags,
 wine-press, thermometer, and bottling machine.
  Mr Carnell's receipt for red gooseberry wine.
   Take  cold  soft water, 10 gallons,—red goose-
 berries,  11 gallons, and ferment.  Now mix raw
 sugar, 16 lbs.—beet-root, sliced, 2  lbs. and red
 tartar, in fine powder,  3 ounces.   Afterwards put
 in sassafras chips, 1 lb. and brandy, 1 gallon, or
 less.  This will make 18 gallons.
   Another.—When the  weather is dry,  gather
 gooseberries about the time they are half ripe; pick
 them  clean, put the quantity ofa peck into a coty
 venient vessel, and bruise them with a  piece of
 wood, taking as much care as possible to keep the
 seeds whole.   Now having put the pulp into a can-
 vass bag, press out all the juice; and to eveiy gal-
 lon of the gooseberries add about three pounds of
 fine loaf  sugar: mix the whole together by stirring
 it with a stick, and as soon as  the sugar  is  quite
 dissolved, pour it into  a  convenient  cask, which
 will hold it exactly.  If the quantity be about 8 or
9 gallons, let it stand a fortnight; if 20 gallons, 40
 days,  and so  on  in proportion; taking care the
place  you set it in be cool.  After standing the
proper time, draw it off from the lees, and put it
 into another clean  vessel  of equal size, or into the
 same, after pouring the  lees  out, and making it
 clean; let a cask often or twelve gallons stand for
 about three months, and twenty gallons for five
 months, after which it will be fit for  bottling off.
         Red and white gooseberry wine.
  Take cold soft water, 3 gallons, red gooseberries,
 1$ gallons, white gooseberries, two gallons.   Fer-
 ment.
  Now mix raw sugar, 5  lbs. honey, 1$ lbs. tartar,
 in fine powder, 1 oz.  Afterwards put in hitter al-
monds, two ounces, sweet-briar, one small handful,
and brandy one gallon, or less.  This will  make
six gallons.
      White gooseberry or champagne wine.
  Take cold soft water, 4^ gallons, white gooseber-
 ries, 5 gallons. Ferment.
  Now  mix refined sugar,  6  pounds,—honey, 4
 pounds,—white tartar, in fine powder, 1 oz.   Put
 in orange and lemon peel, 1 oz. dry,  or two ounces
 fresh; and add white brandy half a gallon.   This
 will make nine gallons.
 Gooseberry wine  of the  best quality, resembling
                  champagne.
  To each Scotch pint of full ripe  gooseberries,
| mashed, add 1  Scotch pint of water, milk warm,
 in which has been dissolved 1 lb. of single refined
 sugar: stir the whole well, and  cover up the tub
 with a blanket, to preserve the  heat generated by
 the fermentation  of the  ingredients: let them re-
 main  in this vessel three days,stirring them twice
 or thrice a  day:  strain  off the  liquor through a
 sieve, afterwards through  a coa/se linen cloth;
 put it  into the  cask:  it  will  ferment  without
 yeast.   Let the cask be  kept full with some of the
 liquor reserved for  the  purpose.   It will ferment
 for ten days, sometimes for three weeks:  when
 ceased,  and  only a hissing noise remains, draw oft
 two or three bottles, according to the strength you
 wish it to have, from every 20 pint cask,  and  fill
 up the cask with brandy or whiskey; but brandy is
 preferable.  To make it very good, and that it may
 keep well, add as much  sherry, together with a ^
 oz. of isinglass dissolved in  water to make it quite
 liquid; stii the whole well.  Bung the cask up, and
 surround the bung with clay; the closer it is bung-
 ed, the better; a fortnight after, if it be clear at
 top, taste it; if not sweet enough, add more sugar;
 22 lbs. is  the just quantity in all for 20  pints of
 wine;  leave the wine six months in the cask; but
 after being quite fine, the sooner it is bottled, the
 more  it  will sparkle and  resemble champagne.
 The process slnvld  be carried on in a place where
 ti.e heat is between  48 deg. and 56 deg. Fahren-
 heit.—N.B.  Currant wine  may be made in the
 same manner.
          To make British champagne.
   Take gooseberries before they are ripe, crush
 them  with a  mallet in a wooden bowl,  and to
 every gallon of fruit put a gallon of water; let it
 stand two days, stirring it well;  squeeze the mix-
 ture well with the hands through a hop-sieve; then
 measure the  liquor, and to every gallon put 3^ lbs.
 of loaf-sugar; mix it  well in the tub, and let it stand
 one  day: put a bottle of the best brandy into the
 cask; which leave open five or six Aveeks, taking off
 the scum as it rises; then  make it up, and let it
 stand one year in the barrel  Before it is bottled.
  The proportion of brandv  to be used for this Ji-
 quor, is one pint to  7 gallons.
       Gooseberry and currant wine mixed.
  Take cold soft water, 6 gallons,—gooseberries,
 4 do.—currants, 4 do. Ferment.
  Mix, raw sugar, 12 lbs.—honey, ?. lbs. and tar-
tar, in fine powder, l£ oz.—bitter almonds, 1£ oz.
 Put in brandy, 6 pints or more.   This will make
 12 gallons.
  Another.—Take cold soft water, 5£  gallons,—
gooseberries and  currants, 4 gallons.  Ferment.  •
Then add—raw sugar, 12$  lbs.—tartar, in  fine
powder, 1 oz.—ginger,  in  powder,  3  ounces-
 sweet marjoram, half a handful,—British spirits, 1
quart.   This will make 9 gallons.
               Red  currant wine.
  Take cold soft water, 11 gallons—red currants,
 8 gallons,—raspberries, 1 quart.   Ferment. Mix,
raw sugar, 20 lbs.—beet-root, sliced, 2 lbs. and red
tartar,  in fine powder, 3 ounces.  Put in 1 nutmeg,
in tine  powder;  add  brandy, 1 gallon.  This wili
make 18 gallons.
  Another.—Put five quarts  of currants and a pint
of raspberries to every two  gallons of  water; let'
them soak a night; then  squeeze and break them
well.   Next day rub  them well through a fine sieve
till the juice is expressed, washing the skins  with
some of the water; then,  to every gallon, put four
pounds of the best sugar, put it into your barrel,
an! set the bung lightly in.  In two or three  days
add a bottle of good  cogniac brandy to every  four
gallons; bung it close, but leave out the spiggot for
a few days.  It is very good  in three years, better
in four.
  Another.—Boil four gallons of spring water, and 
WINES.
l2o
 stir into it 8 lbs. of honey; when thoroughly dis-
 solved, take it offfhe fire; then stir it well in order
 to raise the scum, which take clean off, and cool
 the liquor.
   When thus prepared, press out the same quan-
 tity of the juice of red currants  moderately ripe,
 which being well strained, mix well with the wa-
 ter and honey, then put them into a cask, or a large
 earthen vessel, and let them stand to ferment for
 24 hours; then to every gallon add 2 lbs. of fine su-
 gar, stir t'hem  Avell  to raise the  scum, and when
 well  settled, take it off,  and add half an oz. of
 cream of tartar, with  the whites of two or three
 eggs, to refine  it.  When the wine is well settled
 wd clear, draw it off into a small vessel, or bottle
 it up, keeping  it in a cool place.
  Of white currants  a wine after the same manner
 may be made, that will equal in strength and plea-
 santness many  sorts of white wine; but  as for the
 black or Dutch currants, they are  seldom used,
 except for the preparation of medicinal wines.
   Another.—Gather the currants in dry Aveather,
 put them into a pan and bruise them with a wooden
 pestle;  let them stand  about 20 hours, after which
 strain through a sieve; add 3 lbs.  of fine powdered
 sugar to each 4 quarts of the liquor, and after shak-
 ing it well, fill the vessel, and put a quart of good
 brandy to every seven  gallons.  In 4 weeks, if it
 does not prove quite clear, draw it off into another
 vessel, and let it stand previous to bottling it off
 about 10 days.
          Red and white currant wine.
  Take of cold  soft  water, 12 gallons; Avhite cur-
 rahts, 4 do.; red currants, 3 do.   Ferment.  Mix,
 raw sugar, 25 lbs.; white tartar, in fine  powder, 3
 oz.  Put in sweet-briar leaves, 1 handful; lavender
 leaves, 1 do.; then add spirits, 2 quarts or more.
 This will make 18 gallons.
              Dutch currant wine.
  Take of cold soft water, 9 gallons; red currants,
 10 do.  Ferment.  Mix, raw sugar,  10 lbs.; beet-
 root, sliced, 2 lbs.; red tartar, in fine powder, 2 oz.
 Put in bitter almonds,  1 oz.; ginger, in powder, 2
 oz. then add brandy, 1 quart.  This will make 18
 gallons.
            Dutch red currant wine.
  Take of cold soft water, 11 gallons; red currants,
 8 do.   Ferment.  Mix, raw sugar,  12 lbs.; red
 artar, in fine  powder, 2 oz.  Put  in  coriander
 ieed, bruised, 2 oz. then add British spirit, 2 quarts.
 This will make 18 gallons.                 f
       Mixed berries from a small garden.
  Take of cold soft water,  11 gallons; fruit, 8 do.
 Ferment.  Mix, treacle, 14  or 16 lbs.; tartar, in
 powder, 1 oz.  Put  in ginger,  in powder, 4 oz.;
 sweet herbs, 2  handsful:  then add spirits,  1  or 2
 quarts.   This will make 18 gallons.
            To make compound wine.
  An excellent family  wine may be made of equal
 parts of red, white, and black currants, ripe cher-
 ries, and raspberries, well bruised, and mixed  with
 soft water, in the proportion of 4  lbs. of fruit to 1
 gallon of water.   When strained and pressed, 3
lbs. of moist sugar are to be added to each gallon
 of liquid.  After standing open for 3 days, during
which it is to be stirred frequently, it is to be put
 into a barrel, and left for a fortnight to work, when
a ninth part of brandy is to be added, and the whole
bunged down.  In a  few months it will be a most
excellent wine.
      Other mixed fruits of the berry kind.
  Take of cold  soft  water, 2 gallons; fruit, 18 do.
Ferment.  Honey, 6 lbs.; tartar, in fine  powder, 2
oz.  Put in peach leaves, 6 handsful: then add
orandy, 1 gallon.  This will make 18 gallons.
              White currant wine.
  Take of cold soft water, 9 gallons? white currants,
I  9 do.; white gooseberries; 1 do.  Ferment.  Mix,
  refined sugar, 25 lbs.; white tartar, in.powder, 1
  oz.; clary seed, bruised, 2 oz. or clary flowers, or
  sorrel flowers, 4 handsful: then add white brandy,
  I gallon.  This will make 18  gallons.
   Another.— Take  of cold soft water,  10 gallons;
  white currants, 10 do.   Ferment.   Mix, refined
  sugar, 25 lbs.; Avhite tartar, in fine powder, 1 oz.
  then add, bitter almonds, 2 oz. and white brandy,
  one gallon.   This will make  eighteen gallons.
             Black currant wine.
   Take of cold soft water, 10 gallons; black cur-
  rants, 6 do.; strawberries, 3 do.  Ferment.  Mix,
  raw sugar, 25 lbs.; red tartar, in fine powder, 6oz.
  orange-thyme, 2 handsful: then add brandy, 2 or 3
  quarts.   This will make eighteen gallons.
   Another.— Take of cold soft water,  12 gallons;
  black currants, 5 do.; white  or red currants, or
  both, 3  do.   Ferment.   Mix, raw sugar, 30 lbs. or
  less; red tartar, in  fine powder, 5 oz.; ginger in
  powder, 5 oz.; then add  brandy, 1 gallon, or less.
  This will make 18 gallons.
   Another, very fine.—To every three quarts  of
  juice, add  as much of  cold water, and  to every
  three quarts of the  mixture, add three pounds of
  good, pure sugar.  Put  it into  a  cask, reserving
  some to fill up.  Set the cask in a warm dry room,
  and it will ferment  of itself.   When this is over,
  skim off the refuse, and fill up with what you have
  reserved for this purpose. When it has done work-
  ing, add three quarts of  brandy to forty quarts of
  the wine.  Bung it up close  for ten months, then
  bottle it.  The  thick part may  be  Separated  by
  straining, and the  percolating liquor be bottled
  also.  Keep  it for twelve months.
                 Strawberry wine.
   Take of cold soft water, 7  gallons; cider, 6 do.;
  strawberries, 6  do.  Ferment.  Mix,  raw sugar,
  16 lbs.; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 oz.;  the  peel
■  and juice of  2 lemons:  then add brandy, 2 or 3
  quarts.   This will make 18 gallons.
   Another.—Take of cold soft Avater,  10 gallons;
  strawberries, 9  do.  Ferment.  Mix, raw sugar,
  25 lbs.; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 oz.; 2 lemons
  and 2 oranges, peel and juice: then add brandy, 1
  gallon.  This will make 18 gallons.
                 Raspberry wine.
   Take of cold soft  water, 6  gallons; cider, 4 do.
  raspberries, 6 do.; any other fruit, 3 do. Ferment.
  Mix, raw sugar, 18 or 20 lbs.; red tartar, in fine
  powder, 3 oz.; orange and lemon peel, 2 oz. dry,
  or 4 oz. fresh: then add  brandy, 3 quarts.  This
  will make 18 gallons.
   Another.—Gather the  raspberries when  ripe,
  husk them  and  bruise them; then strain  them
  through a bag into jars or other vessels.  Boil  the
 juice, and to every gallon put  a pound  and a half
  of lump sugar.  Now add whites of eggs, and let
 the whole boil for fifteen minutes; skimming it as
 the froth rises.   When  cool  and  settled, decant
 the.liquor into a cask, adding  yeast to make it fer-
  ment.   When this has taken place, add a pint of
  white wine, or half a pint of  proof spirit to each
 gallon contained in the cask, a/ul hang a bag in it
 containing an ounce of  bruised  mace.  In three
 months, if kept in a cool  place, it will be  very ex-
 cellent and delicious wine.
                 Mulberry wine.
   On a  dry day, gather mulberries, when they  are
  just changed  from  redness  to  a shining  black;
 spread them thinly on a fine cloth, or on a floor or
 table, for twenty-four hours; and then press them.
 Boil a gallon of wattr with each gallon of juice;
 putting  to every gallon of water an ounce of cinna-
 mon bark, and six  ounces of  sugar candy finely
 powdered.   Skim and strain the  water, when it is
 taken off and settled^ and put to it  the mulberry 
tECEIPT BOOK.
 126                           UNIVERSAL I

 juice.   Now add to every gallon of the mixture a
 pint of  white or  Rhenish wine.  Let the  whole
 stand in a cask  to ferment, for five  or six days.
 When settled, draw it off into bottles, and keep it
 cool.
                Elder-berry wine.
   Take of cold  soft water,  16 gallons, Malaga
 raisins,  50 lbs. elder-berries,  4 gallons, red tartar,
 in fine  powder, 4 ounces.   Mix giager,  in pow-
 der, 5  ounces,  cinnamon, cloves} and mace, of
 each 2 ounces, 3 oranges or lemons, peel and juice.
 Then add 1 gallon of brandy.   This will make 18
 gallons.
   Another.—In making elder juice, let the berries
 be fully ripe, and all the stalks be  clean picked
 from them; then,  have a press  ready for drawing
 off all the juice, and  four hair  cloths, somewhat
 broader  than the press: lay one layer above another,
 having a hair cloth betwixt every layer, which must
 be laid  very .thin,  and  pressed a  little at first,  and
 then more till the  press be drawn as close as possi-
 ble.   Now take out the berries, and  press all the
 rest  in the like manner: then take the pressed ber-
 ries, break out all the lumps, put th"m into an open
 headed vessel, and add as much  liquor as will just
 cover them.  Let  them infuse  so for seven or eight
 days; then put the best juice into a cask proper for
 it to be  kept in,  and add one gallon of malt spirits,
 not rectified, to eveiy twenty gallons of elder juice,
 which will effectually  preserve  it from becoming
 sour for  two years at least.
  Another.—Pick  the berries when quite ripe, put
 them into a stone jar,' and set  them in an oven, or
 in a kettle of boiling water, till the jar is  hot
 through,  then  take them out,  and  strain them
 through  a coarse  sieve: squeeze the berries,  and
 put the juice into a clean kettle.  To every quart
 of juice put a  pound of fine Lisbon sugar: let it boil,
 and skim it well.   When clear and fine, pour it
 into  a cask.  To every ten gallons of wine, add an
 ounce of isinglass dissolved in cider, and six whole
 eggs.  Close it  up, let it stand six months, and
 then bottle it.
     To make an  imitation of Cyprus wine.
  To ten gallons  of  water put  ten quarts of  the
 juice of  white elder berries, pressed gently from
 the berries by the hand, and passed through a sieve,
 without bruising the seeds: add to every gallon of
 liquor three  pounds of Lisbon  sugar, and to  the
 whole quantity two ounces of ginger sliced, and
 one ounce  of cloves.   Boil this nearly an hour,
 taking off the scum as it rises,  and pour the whole
 to cool,  in an open tub, and work it with ale yeast,
 spread upon a toast of bread for three days.  Then
 turn  it into a  vessel that  will just hold it, adding
 about a pound and  a half of bruised raisins, to lie
 in the liquor  till drawn oft", which should not be
 done till the wine  is fine.
  This wine is so  much like the fine rich Avine
 brought from the island of Cyprus, in colour, taste,
 and flavour, that it has deceived the best judges.
 To make elder-flower wine; or English Frontiniac.
  Boil eighteen pounds of white powdered sugar
in six gallons of water, and two whites of eggs well
beaten; skim it, and put in a quarter of a peck of
elder-flowers; do not keep them on the fire.  When
cool, stir it, and put in six spoonsful of lemon juice,
four  or five of yeast, and  beat well into the liquor;
stir it well every day; put six  pounds of the  best
raisins, stoned, into the  cask, and tun the wine.
Stop it  close, and  bottle i.i six months.   When
well  kept, this wine will  pass  very well for Fron-
 tiniac.
  Another.—To six gallons of spring water put six
 pounds of sun raisins cut small, and a dozen pounds
 of fine sugar;  boil the whole together for about an
hour and a half.  When the liquor is cold,  put
 half a peck of ripe elder-flowers in, with about 9
 gill of lemon juice, and half the auantity of ale
 yeast.  Cover it up, and after standing three days,
 strain it off.   Now pour it into a cask that is quite
 clean and that will hold  it with ease.  When this
 is done, put a quart of Rhenish wine to every gal-
 lon; let the bung  be slightly put in for twelve  or
 fourteen days; then stop it down fast, and put it in
 a cool dry place for four or five  months, till it be
 quite settled and fine; then bottle it oft'.
              Imitation of port wine.
   Take 6 gallons of good cider; 1$ gallons of port
 wine; 1$  gallons of the juice of elder-berries; 3
 quarts of brandy;  1$ ounces of cochineal.  This
 will produce 9$ gallons.
   Bruise  the cochineal  very fine, and put it with
 the brandy into a stone bottle; let it remain at least
 a fortnight, shaking it well  once or twice every
 day; at the end of that time procure the cider, and
 put five gallons  into a nine gall jn cask, add to  it
 the elder juice and port wine, then  the brandy and
 cochineal.   Take the remaining gallon of cider to
 rinse  out the bottle that contained the brandy; and
 lastly, pour  it  into the cask,  and bung it down
 very close, and in six weeks it  will be ready for
 bottling.
   It is, however, sometimes  not quite so  fine as
 could he wished: in that case add  two ounces of
 isinglass,  and let  it remain  a fortnight or three
 weeks longer, when it will be perfectly bright: it
 would not be amiss, perhaps,  if the  quantity of
 isinglass mentioned was  added to the wine before
 it  was bunged down; it will  tend v*ry considera-
 bly to improve the body of the wine.   If it should
 not appear  sufficiently  rough  flavoured,  add an
 ounce, or an ounce and a half of roche-alum, which
 will, in most cases, impart a sufficient astringency.
  After it is bottled, it must,  be  packed in as cool
a place as  possible. It will be fit for using in a few
months; but if kept longer, it will  be greatly im-
proved.
          Wortleberry or bilberry wine.
  Take of cold soft water, 6 gallons; cider, 6 gain
lens; berries, 8 gallons.   Ferment.  Mix, raw su-
gar, 20 pounds; tartar, in fine powder, 4 ounces.
Add ginger, in  powder, 4 ounces; lavender  and
rosemary leaves, 2 handsful; rum or British spirits,
 I gallon.  This  will make 18 gallons,
                  Birch wine.
  The season for obtaining the liquor from birch-
trees, is in the latter end of February, or the ber
ginning of March,  before the leaves  shoot out,  and
as  the sap begins to rise.   If the time is delayed,
 the juice will grow too thick to be  drawn out.  It
 should be  as thin and clear as possible, The me-
 thod of procuring  the juice is by boring holes in
 the trunk  of the  tree, and fixing faucets of elder;
 but care should be  taken not to tap  it in too many
 places at once, for  fear of injuring the tree,   If the
 tree is large, it may be bored  in five or six places
 at  once, and botties are to be  placed under-the
 aperture for the sap to flow into.   When four or
 five gallons have been extracted from different trees,
 cork the bqttles very close, and wax them  till the
 wine is to  be made, which should  be as  soon as,
possible after the sap has been obtained.  Boil the
 sap, and put four pounds of loaf sugar to every gal-
 lon, also the peel ofa lemon cut thin;  then boil it
again  for nearly  an hour, skimming it all the time,
 Now pour it into a tub, and as soon as it is almost
 cold, work it with  a toast spread with yeast,  and
 let it stand five or six  days, stirring  it  twice or
three times each day.  Into a cask that will contain
 it, put a lighted brimstone match,  stop it  up till
the match is burnt  out, aud then pour the wine into
 it, putting the bung  lightly  in, till  it has done
 working.  Bung,it very close for aboutthree months, 
WINES.
and th=n bottle it.   It will be good in a week after
it is put into the bottles.
  Another.—uirch wine may be made with raisins,
in the following manner: To a hogshead of birch-
water, take four hundred  of Malaga raisins: pick
them clean from the stalks, and  cut them small.
Then boil the birci. liquor  for onr hour at least,
skim  it well, and let it stand till it be no warmer
than  milk.  Then put  in the raisins,  and let it
stand close  covered, stirring it well four  or five
times every  day.   Boil all the stalks in a gallon or
two of birch liquor, which, when added to the other,
when almost cold,  will give it an agreeable  rough-
ness.   Let it stand ten days, then put it in a cool
cellar, and when it has done hissing in the vessel,
stop it up close. It must stand at least nine months
before it is bottled.
               Blackberry wine.
  Having procured berries that are fully ripe, put
them into a  large vessel of wood  or stone,  with a
cock in it, and  pour upon them as much boiling
water as will cover them.  As soon as the heat will
permit the hand to be put into the vessel, bruise
them well till all the berries are broken.   Then
let them stand covered till the berries begin to rise
towards the  top, which they  usually do  in three or
four days.  Then draw off the  clear into another
vessel, and add to every ten quarts of this liquor, a
pound of sugar.  Stir it well  and let  it stand to
worh a week or ten days, in  another  vessel like
the first.   Then draw it off  at the cock through a
jelly-bag  into a large vessel.   Take four  ounces
of isinglass,  and lay it to  steep twelve  hours in a
pint of white wine. The next morning, boil it upon
a slow fire till it is all dissolved. Then take a gal-
lon of blackberry-juice, put  in the dissolved-isin-
glass, give them a boil together, and  pour all into
the vessel.   Let it stand a few days to purge and
settle, then draw it off, and keep it in a cool place.
                 Spruce wine.
  For this, which is only a superior sort of white
spruce beer, proceed as follows: To every  gallon
of water take l£ lbs. of honey, and $  lb. of fine
Starch.  The starch however, previously to its be-
ing blended with the honey,  liquor or syrup, must
be  reduced  to  a transparent jelly, by  boiling it
with part  of the wator  purposely preserved.  A
quarter of a pound of essence of spruce may be used
to 6 gallons  of water; and the same method may be
pursued in working, fining and bottling, as directed
for white spruce beer.
  Spruce  is a wholesome and pleasant drink to
those who are used to it, and persons soon become
habituated.  It  contains a vast quantity of fixed air,.
which is extremely bracing; and the use of this
liquor is particularly to be recommended to such
as are troubled with scorbutic  humours, or have
the gravel.  It  i3 chiefly used in summer.
              Juniper-berry wine.
  Take of cold soft water, 18  gallons,  Malaga or
Smyrna raisins, 35 lbs. juniper berries, 9 quarts,
red tartar, 4 ounces, wormwood and sweet marjo-
ram, each 2 handsful, British spirit, two quarts or
more.  Ferment for ten or twelve days.   This will
make eighteen  gallons.
             To make damson wine.
  Take of cold soft water, 11  gallons, damsons, 8
gallons.  Ferment.  Mix raw  sugar, 30 lbs. red
tartar, in fine powder, 6 oz.   Add brandy, 1 gal-
lon.   This will  make 18 gallons.
  " When the must," says Mr Carnell, " has fer-
mented 2 days, (during which time  it should be
stirred up two or three times,) take out of the vat
about 2 or 3  quarts of the stones,  and break them
and the kernels, and then return them into the vat
again."
  Another method.—Take a  considerable quantit
of damsons and common  plums inclining to ripe-
ness: slit them in halves, so that the stones may be
taken out, then mash them gently, and add a little
water and honey.  Add to every gallon ol the pulp
a gallon of spring water, with a few bay leaves and
cloves; boil the mixture, and add as much sugar as
will sweeten it; sHm off the froths, and let it cool.
Now press the fruit, squeezing out the liquid.part;
strain all  through a fine strainer, and put the wa-
ter and juice together in a cask.  Having allowed
the whole to stand and ferment for three or four
days, fine it with white sugar, flour and white of
eggs; draw it oft" into  bottles, then cork  it well.
In twelve days it will be ripe, and will taste like
weak Port, having the flavour of Canary.
  Another.—Gather the damsons on  a dry day,
weigh them, and then bruise them.   Put them into
a stein that has a cock in it, and to every 8 pounds
of fruit add a gallon of water.  Boil  the water,
skim it and put it scalding hot to the fruit.  Let
it stand two days, then  draw it off and put it into a
vessel, and to every gallon of liquor put 2A lbs. of
fine  sugar.  Fill up  the vessel, and  stop it close,
and the  onger it stands the better.  Keep it  for
twelve months  in the vessel, and then bottle, put-
ting a lump of sugar into every bottle.   The small
damson is the best for this purpose.
                 Cherry wine.
  Take of cold soft water, 10 gallons—-cherries, 10
gallons—Ferment.   Mix raw  sugar, 30 lbs.—red
tartar, in fine powder, 3 o%.   Add  brandy, 2 or 3
quarts.   This will make 18 gallons.
  Two days after the  cherries have been  in  the
vat,  Mr Carnell says, we should take out about 3
quarts of the cherry stones, break thein and  the
kernels, and return them into the vat again.
   Another.—Take cherries nearly ripe, of any red
sort, clear them of the stalks and stones, then  put
them into a glazed  earthen  vessel, and squeeze
them to a pulp.   Let them remain in this state for
12 hours to ferment; then put them into a linen
cloth not too fine and  press out the juice  with a
pressing  board, or any other  convenient instru-
ment.  Now let the  liquor sta..d till the scum ri-
ses,  and with a ladle or skimmer take it clean  off;
then pour the clear part, by inclination, into a cask,
where, to each gallon, put a pound of the best loaf
sugar, and let it ferr.ent for seven or eight days.
Draw it  off,  when clear, into  lesser casks or bot-
tles; keep  it  cool, as other wines, and in ten or
twelve days it will be ripe.
            7 o make Morella wine.
  Cleanse from the stalks  sixty pounds of Morella
cherries, and bruise them so that the stones shall
be broken.  Now press out the juice and mix it
with 6 gallons of sherry  wine, and 4 gallons of
warm water.  Having  grossly powdered  separate
ounces of nutmeg, cinnamon, and mace, hang them
separately, in small  bags, in  the cask containing
the mixture.  Bung it down and in a few weeks it
will become a deliciously flavoured wine, i
             To make peach wine.
  Take of cold soft water, 18 gallons, refined  su-
gar, 25 lbs. honey, 6 lbs. white tartar, in fine pow-
der, 2 ounces, p-jaehes, sixty or eighty  in num-
ber. Ferment.   Then  add 2  gallons of brandy.
This will make 18 gallons.
  The first division  is to be put into the vat,  and
the day after, before the peaches are put in, take
the stones from them, hreak them and the kernels,
then put  them and the  pulp into the vat, and pro-
ceed with the general process.
            Peach and apricot wine.
  Take  peaches, nectarines, &c. pare them, and
take the stones out; then slice them thin, and pour
over them from a gallon  to two gallons of water,
and a quart of white wine.  Place the whole on a 
128
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 fire to simmer gently for a considerable time, till
 the sliced  fruit becomes soft; pour off the liquid
 part into another vessel containing  more peaches
 that have been sliced but not heated; let them stand
 for twelve hours, then pour out the liquid part, and
 press what remains through a  fine hair bag.  Let
 the whole be now put into u cask  to ferment; add
 of loaf sugar, a pound and a half to each gallon.
 Boil well, an ounce of beaten cloves in a quart of
 white Avine, and add it to the above.
   Apricot wine may be made by only bruising the
 fruit and  pouring the hot liquor over  it.   This
 wine does not  require so much sweetening.  To
 give it a curious flavour, boil an ounce of mace, and
 naif an ounce of nutmegs, in a quart of white wine;
 and when the wine is fermenting pour the  liquid
 in hot.  In about twenty days, or a month these
 w'nes Avill be fit for bottling.
                  Apricot wine.
   Boil together three pounds of sugar, and three
 quarts  of  water;  and skim it  well.   Put  in six
 pounds of apricots pared and stoned, and let them
 boil till they become tender. Then take them up,
 and when the liquor is cold, bottle it.  After tak-
 ing out the apricots, let the liquor be boiled with
 a sprig of flowered clary.   The apricots will make
 marmalade, and be A'ery good for present use.
                  Lemon  wine.
   Pare off the r'r.ids of 6  large lemons, cut them,
 and squeeze  out the juice.   Steep  the rinds in the
 juice, and put  to  it a quart of brandy.  Let it
 stand three days in an earthen  pot close  stopped;
 then squeeze 6 more, and  mix  with  it 2 quarts of
 spring water, and as much sugar as will sweeten
 the Avhole.   Boil the water, lemons,  and sugar to-
 gether, and let it stand till it be cool.  Then add a
 quart of white  wine,  and the  other lemons and
 brandy; mix  them together, and run it through a
 flannel  bag  into some vessel.   Let it  stand three
 months and  then  bottle it off.   Cork  the bottles
 well; keep it cool, and it will be fit  to drink in a
 month or six weeks.
  Another.—Pare 5 dozen of lemons very thin, put
 the peels into 5 quarts of French brandy, and iet
 them stand 14 days.   Then make  the juice into a
 syrup with 3 lbs. of single refined sugar, and when
 the peels are ready, boil 15 gallons of  water with
 U) lbs.  of single refined sug".r for half an hour.
 Then put it into a tub, and when cool add to it one
 spoonful of yeast, and let it work two days.  Then
 tun it, and put  in the brandy,  peels,  and syrup.
 Stir them all  together, and close up the cask.   Let
 it stand three months, then bottle it, and it will be
 as pale and as fine as any citron  water.
               Apple white -wine.
  Take of  cold soft water, 2 gal'ons, apples, well
 bruised, 3 bushels, honey, 10 lbs.,  white  tartar, 2
 ounces, 1 nutmeg,  in powder, rum,  3 quarts.  This
 will make 18 gallon?.
              To make apple wine.
  To every gallon of apple juice, immediately as it
conies from the press, add  2 lbs. of common loaf
sugar; boil it as long as any scum rises, then strain
it through a sieve, and let it cool; add  some good
yeast, and stir it well; let it wcrk in the tub for
two or three weeks, or till the head begins to flat-
ten, then skim oft" the head, draw it clear off, and
tun it.   When made a yeaV, rack it oft", and fine it
 with isinglass; then add ^ a pint of the best  recti-
fied spirit of wine, or a pint of French brandy, to
everv 8 gallons.
                Apple red wine.
  Take of  cold soft water, 2 gallons, apples,
 well bruised, 3  bushels.   Ferment.   Mix, raw
sugar, 15 lbs., beet root, sliced, 4 lbs., red tartar,
in fine powder, 3 oz. then add ginger, in powder,
  3 oz. rosemary and lavender leaves, of each two
  handsful,  British  spirits, 2 quarts.   This  will
  make 18 gallons.
               To make qidnce wine.
    Gather the quinces when  pretty ripe, in a dry
  day, rub off the down with a linen cloth, then lay
  them in hay or straw for te i days, to perspire.
  Now cut them in quarters, take out the cores, and
  bruise them well in a mashing tub with a wooden
  pestle.   Squeeze out the liquid part, by pressing
  them in a hair bag, by degrees, in a cider press;
  strain this liquor through a fine sieve, then warm it
  gently over a fire, and skim it, but do not suffer it
  to boil.  Now sprinkle into it some loaf-sugar re-
  duced to powder; then in a gallon of water and a
  quart of white wine, boil  12  or  14 large quinces
  thinly sliced; add  2  lbs. of fine  sugar and  then
  strain off the  liquid part, and mingle it with the na-
  tural juice of the quinces; put this into a cask (not
  to fill it) and mix them well  together; then let it
  stand to settle; put in 2 or 3  whites of eggs,  then
  draw  it off.   If it be not  sweet enough, add more
  sugar, and a quart of the best Malmsey.   To make
  it still better  boil a ^ lb. of stoned raisins, and ^an
  oz. of cinnamon bark in  a quart of the liquor, to
  the consumption of a third part, and straining it,
  put it into the cask when the  wine is fermenting.
   Another.—Take 20 large quinces, gathered when
 they are dry and full ripe.  Wipe them clean  with
 a coarse cloth, and grate them with a large grateror
 rasp as near the cores as possible; but do not touch
 the cores.  Boil a gallon of spring-water, throw in
 the quinces, and let them boil softly about a  1 of
 an hour.   Then strain them well  into an earthen
 pan, on 2 lbs.  of double refined sugar.   Pare the
 peei of 2 large lemons, throw them in, and squeeze
 the juice through a sieve.  Stir it about till  it be
 very coolj  and then toast a thin bit of bread very
 brown, rub a little yeast on it, and  let the whole
 stand close covered 24 hours.   Then take out the
 toast and lemon, put the Avine in a cask, keep it
 three months, and then bottle it.   If a 20 gallon
 cask is wanted, let it stand six months before  bot-
 tling it; and remember, when straining the quinces,
 to wring them hard in a coarse cloth.
                  Orange wine.
   Put 12 lbs.  of powdered sugar, with the whites
 of 8 or 10 eggs Avell beaten, into 6 gallons of spring
 water; boil them ^ of an hourj when cold, put into
 it 6 spoonsful  of yeast and the juice of 12 lemons,
 which being pared, must stand with 2 lbs. of white
 sugar in a tankard,  and in the morning skim off the
 top, and then  put it into the water; add  the juice
 and rinds of 50 oranges, but not the white or pithy
 parts of the rinds;  let it work all  together 2 days
 and 2 nights;  then  add two quarts  of Rhenish or
 white wine, and put it into the vessel.
   Another.—To 6  gallons of water put 15 lbs. of
 soft sugar; before it boils, add the whites of six
 eggs well beaten, and take off the scum as it rises;
 boil it $ an hour: when cool, add the juice of 50
 oranges, and two-thirds of the peels cut very thin;
 and immerse  a toast  covered with yeast.  In a
 month after it  has been in the cask, add  a pint of
 brandy and 2 quarts of Rhenish wine: it will be fit
 to bottle in 3 or 4 months,  but it should remain in
 bottle for 12 months before it is drank.
        To make orange and lemon wine.
   Orange wine of a superior quality may be made
 with 2 lbs. ot"  clayed sugar, and 1  lb. of Malaga
 raisins to each  gallon of water, to which add  the
juice and peel of ah orange, and to everv 100 gal-
 lons of fluid 4 lbs. of Rhenish  tartar.
   Two lbs. of honey, 1 lb. of Malaga raisins, with
 the juice and peel of a large orange, to every gal-
 lon of water, and 4 lbs. of Rhenish tartar to every 
WINES.
129
100 gallons fluid, will  make  an orange wine  still
superior to the former.  Steep and press the fruit,
and expend the t&itnr in setting, raising, and cut-
ting the backs: the orange peel and juice are not
to be added  until the last stage of fermentation,
that is on cutting: they will possess infinitely more
vinosity than  the ordinary orange  wines, indeed,
nearly as much as the juice of the vine.
  Lemon Avine, equally delicious, may be made in
a similar  manner: both these wines, as they ad-
vance in age,  lose much of the grosser part of the
orange and lemon flavour; one approaches the ber-
gamot and the other a fine citron, and become fra-
grant as they advance in years: they will be more
improved if treacle be  used, divested of its colour
and burnt flavour.
             To make parsnip wine.
  To 12 pounds of parsnips, cut in slices, add 4
gallons of water; boil them till they become quite
soft.  Squeeze the liquor well out of them, run it
through a sieve,  and add to every gallon 3 pounds
of loaf sugar.   Boil the whole three quarters of an
hour, and when it is nearly cold, add  a little yeast.
Let it stand for ten days in a tub, stirring it every
day from the  bottom, then put  it into a cask for
twelve months: as it works over, fill it  up every
day.
                White mead wine.
  Take of cold soft water, seventeen gallons, white
currants, six  quarts.   Ferment.  Mix honey, 30
 Eounds, white tartar, in fine powder, 3 oz.  Add
 aim and sweetbriar, each 2 handsful, white bran-
dy, 1 gallon.  This will make 18 gallons.
          Red mead or metheglin wine.
  Take of cold soft water, 17 gallons, red currants,
6 quarts, black currants, 2 quarts. Ferment. Mix,
honey, 25 pounds, beet root,  sliced,  1 pound, red
tartar, in fine powder, 4 oz.   Add cinnamon, in
powder, 2 oz. brandy, 1 gallon.  This will make
18 gallons.
  Another.—Fermented mead is made in the pro-
portion of I pound cf honey to 3 pints of water; or
by boiling over a moderate fire, to  two-thirds of
the quantity, three parts water and one part honey.
The liquor is then skimmed and casked, care be-
ing, taken to keep' the cask full while fermenting.
During the fermenting process, the cask  is left un-
stopped and exposed  to  the  sun,  or in a warm
room, until the working cease.  The cask is. then
bunged, and a few months in the cellar renders it
fit tor use.  Mead is rendered more vinous and
pleasant, by the addition of cut raisins, or other
fruits, boiled after the rate of half a pound of rai-
sins to six pounds of honey, with a toasted crust of
bread, an ounce of salt  of tartar in a glass of bran-
dy, being  added to the liquor when casked; to
which some add five or six drops of the essence of
cinnamon; others, pieces of lemon peel with vari-
ous syrups.
               Walnut mead wine.
  To every gallon of water put three pounds and a
half of honey, and boil them  together three quar-
ters of an hour.   Then to every gallon of liquor put
about two dozen of walnut leaves, pour the boiling
liquor upon them, and let them stand all  night.
Then take out  the leaves, put in a  spoonful of
yeast, and let it work for two or three days.  Then
make it up, and after it has stood for three months,
bottle it.
         To make American honey wine.
  Put a quantity of the comb,  from which honey
has been drained, in a  tub, and add a barrel of ci-
der, immediately from the press; this mixture stir,
and leave for one night.  It is then strained before
rermentation; and honey added, until the specific
gravity of the liquor is  sufficient to bear an egg.  It
is then put into a barrel; and after the fermentation
      R
is  commenced, the cask is  filled  every diy, for
three or four days, that the froth may work out of
the bung-hole.  When the fermentation mode.-ates,
put the bung in loosely, lest stopping it tight might
cause the cask to burst.  At the end of five or .six
weeks, the liquor is to be drawn off into a tub, and
the whites of eight eggSj well beaten up, with  a
pint of clean sand,  are to be put into it: then add n
gallon of cider spirit; and after mixing the whole
together, return it into the cask, which is to be
well cleaned, bunged tight, and placed in a proper
situation for racking off, when fine.  In the month
of April following, draw it off into kegs, for use;
and it will be equal to almost any foreign wine.
               Cowslip red wine.
  Take of cold soft water, 18 gallons, Smyrna rai-
sins, 40 lbs.   Ferment.  Mix beet-root, sliced, 3
pounds, red tartar, in fine  powder, 2 oz.  Add
cowslip-flowers, 14 lbs. cloves and mace, in pow-
der, 1 oz.   Brandy, 1 gallon.  This will make 18
gallons.
               Cowslip white wine.
  Take of cold soft water, 18 gallons, Malaga rai-
sins, 35 lbs.  white  tartar,  in  fine powder, 2 oz.
Ferment.    Mix cowslip-flowers,  16 lbs.   Add
white brandy, 1 gallon.  This will  make  18 gal-
lons.
                 Cowslip mead
  Is made in  this  manner: to 15 gallons of water
put 30 pounds of honey, and boil it till 1 gallon be
wasted.   Skim it,  take it off the fire, and have rea-
dy 16 lemons cut in halves.  Take a gallon ol the
liquor, and put it to the lemons.  Put the rest of the
liquor into a tub, with 7 pecks of cowslips, and let
them stand all night.  Then put in the liquor with
the lemons,  8 spoonsful of new yeast, and a hand-
ful of sweetbriar.   Stir them all well together, and
let it work three or four days.   Then strain it, put
it into the cask, and after it has stood six months,
bottle it off.
               Cider white wine.
  Take of cold soft water, 2 quarts, cider, 9 gal-
lons, honey,  8 pounds, white tartar, in fine powder,
2 oz.   Ferment.   Mix cinnamon,  cloves, and
mace, 2 oz.  Add rum, \ gallon.  This will make
9 gallons.
                Cider red wine.
  Take of cold soft water, 3 gallons, cider, 16 gal-
lons, honey,  10 pounds.  Ferment.  Add raw sugar,
4 pounds, beet-root, sliced, 4 pounds, red tartar, in
fine  powder,  6 oz.  Mix sweet marjoram and
sweetbriar, S handsful, rum. 1 gallon.   This will
make 18 gallons.
                  Cider wine.
  Take of cold soft water,  4 gallons, cidei, 15 gal-
lons, honev, 12 pounds, tartar, in fine  powder,  2
ounces.   Ferment.  Mix  ginger, in powder,  6
ounces,  sage and mint, 2 handsful.  Add  British
spirits, one gallon.  This will make eighteen gal-
lons.
                Grape red wine.
  Take of cold soft water,  5  gallons, black or red
grapes, 40 pounds.  Ferment.   Mix cider, 9 gal-
lons, raw sugar,  20 pounds, barberry  leaves,  3
handsful, beet-root sliced, 2 pounds, red tartar, in
powder, 4 ounces.  Add. white elder flowers,  6
handsful, or sassafras chips, 4 pounds, brandy,  1
gallon.  This  will  make 18 gallons.
  Another.—Take of cold soft water  6 gallons,
grapes, of any colour, 30 pounds.  Ferment.  Mix
treacle,  10 pounds, beet-root sliced, l£ pounds,
red tartar, in powder, 2 ounces.  Add  rosemary
leaves, 2 handsful,  brandy,  £ a gallon.  This will
make 9 gallons.
  Anotlier.—Take  of cold soft  water, 8 gallons,
grapes, of any sort, 100 pounds.   Ferment.   Mix
raw sugar, 20 pounds, beet-root sliced, 4 pounds, 
130
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
  Darberry leaves, 4 handsful, red tartar, in powder,
  6 ounces.  Add coriander seed, bruised, 2 ounces,
  brandy, 6 quarts.  This will make 18 gallons.
                Grape white wine.
   Take of cold soft water, 13 gallons, white grapes,
  50  pounds.   Ferment.  Mix  refined sugar, 25
  pounds, white tartar, in powder, 3  ounces.  Add
  clary seed bruised, 3  ounoes, or clary flowers, 6
  handsful, rum, 1 gallon.    This will make  18
 gallons.
        To make raisin wine equal to slierry.
   Let the raisins be well washed and picked from
  the stalks; to every pound thus prepared and chop-
 ped, add 1 quart of water which has been boiled
  and has stood till it is cold.   Let the whole  stand
 in the vessel tor a month, being frequently stirred.
 Now  let the raisins be taken from the cask, and let
 the liquor be closely stopped in the vessel.   In the
  course of a month, let it be racked into another
 vessel,  leaving all the  sediment behind, which
 must  be repeated till it becomes fine, when add to
 every ten gallons six pounds of fine sugar, and one
 dozen of Seville oranges, the rinds being pared
 very  thin, and infused  in  two  quarts of hrandy,
 which should be added  to  the  liquor  at  its last
 racking.   Let the whole stand three months in the
 cask,  when it will be fit for bottling; it should re-
 main  in the bottle for a twelve-month.
   To give it the flavour of  Madeira, when it is in
 the cask, put in a couple of green citrons, and let
 them  remain till the wine is bottled.
   Another raisin wine.—Vat two hundred weight
 of raisins, with the stalks, into a hogshead, and fill
 it almost with  spring water; let them steep for
 about twelve days, frequently stirring, and  after
 pouring off the juice, dress the raisins and mash
 them.  The whole should then be put together into
 a very clean vessel that will exactly contain it.  It
 will hiss for some time, during which it should not
 be stirred;  but when the noise ceases, it must be
 stopped close, and stand for about  six  or seven
 months: and then, if it proves fine and clear, rack
 it off  into another vessel of the  same size.   Stop
 it up, and let it remain for twelve or fourteen weeks
 longer, then bottle it off  If it  should  not prove
 clear, fine  it down with three ounces of isinglass,
 and a  quarter ofa pound of  sugar-candy, dissolved
 in some of the wine.
   Another grape wine.—To every  gallon of ripe
 grapes put a gallon of soft water, bruise the grapes,
 let them stand a Aveek without stirring, and draw
 the liquor off fine; to every gallon of wine put three
 pounds of lump sugar; put the w hole into a vessel,
 but do not  stop it till it has done hissing, then
 stop it close, and in six months  it will  be fit for
 bottling.
   A better wine, though smaller in  quantity, will
 be made by leaving out the water, and diminish-
 ing the  quantity of sugar.   Water is  necessary,
 only where the juice is so scanty, or so thick, as
 in cowslip, balm, or black currant  wine, that it
 could not be used Avithout it.
              Claret vine-leaf wine.
   Take  of cold soft water, 18 gallons, claret vine-
 leave?, 3 pecks. Ferment.  Mix raw  sugar,  50
 pounds,  barberries, 6  quarts, red tartar,  in fine
 powder, 8 ounces.   Add roses, 6 or  8 handsful,
 sassafras chips,  3 pounds.  Brandy, one gallon or
 more.
   Mr  Carnell directs to  macerate the vine-leaves
 in the water 3 days, and then proceed with the ge-
 neral process.  This will make 18 gallons.
   Another.—Take of cold soft  water, 11 gallons,
 claret  vine leaves, 2 pecks.  Ferment.   Add cider,
 9 gallons, raw sugar, 30 pounds, red tartar, in pow-
 der, ,6 ounces.   Mix cinnamon, in  powder, 2 oz,
•Q nutmegs in  powder,  brandy, 1  gallon.  This
will make 18 gallons.
       To make wine from frosted potatoes.
    Wine of considerable quality may be made from
  frosted potatoes, if not so much frosted as to have
  become soft and waterish.   The potatoes must be
  crushed or bruised; a wooden mallet answers the
  purpose.  Ifaphnk  of wood is  made hollow, in
  the manner ofa shallow bowl, they rr-ty be bruised
  with a mallet, or put into a cider press.   A Win-
  chester  bushel  must have 10 gallons of water,
  prepared by boiling  it  mixed with £  lb. of hops
  and  £  lb. of common white ginger.  This water,
  after having boiled for about half an hour, must be
  poured upon the bruised potatoes, into a tub or
  vessel suited to the quantity to be made.  After
  standing in this mixed state for three days, yeast
  must be added, to ferment the liquor.   When the
  fermentation has subsided, the  liquor must  be
  drawn off, as pure as possible, into a cask, adding
  half a pound of raw sugar for every gallon.  After
  it has remained in the cask for three mondis, it will
  be ready for use.  Farmer's Mag.
              Ginger wine, excellent.
    Put into 'a very nice boiler ten gallons of water,
  fifteen pounds of lump sugar, with the whites of six
  or eight eggs,  well beaten and strained.; mix all
  well while ccId; when the liquor boils skim it well,
  put in half a pound of common white ginger, bruis-
  ed, and boil  it  twenty minutes.  Have ready the
  rinds (cut very thin) of seven lemons, and  pour
  the hot liquor on them; whew cool put it into your
  cask, with two spoonsful  of yeast; put a quart of
  the warm liquor to twi ounces of isinglass shav-
  ings, whisk it well three or four times, and put all
  into the barrel.   Next day stop it up, in three
  weeks bottle it, and in  three months it will be a
  delicious and safe liquor.       r
    Another.—Take of cold soft water, 19 gallons;
  Malaga raisins, 50  lbs.; white tartar,  in powder,
  4 oz. Ferment.  Mix ginger, in powder or bruised,
  20 oz.; 18 lemons, peel and juice.   Add brandy, 2
  quarts, or more.  This will make 18 gallons.
    Another.—Take  20 quarts of water; 5 lbs. of
  sugar; 3 oz. of white ginger; 1 oz. of stick liquorice.
  Boil them well together; when it is cold put a lit-
  tle new yeast upon it, but not too much; then put
  it into the barrel for 10  days, antl  after that bottle
  it putting a lump of white  sugar into every bottle.
    Another.—To  seven  gallons of water put  19
  pounds of clayed sugar, and boil it for half an hour;
  taking off the ,seum as it rises; then take a small
  quantity of the liquor, and add to it 9 ounces of the
  best ginger bruised.  Now put it ail together, and
  when nearly cold,  chop 9 pounds of raisins  very
  small, and put them into a nine gallon cask (beer
  measure,) with one ounce of isinglass.   Slice 4 le-
  mons into  the cask, taking  out all the seeds, and
  pour the liquor over them, with half a pint of fresh
  yeast.   Leave it unstopped for three weeks, and in
  about three months it will be fit for boltliug.
    There .will be one gallon  of the sugar and water
  more than the cask will hold at first: this must be
  kept to fill up,.as the liquor works  off, as  it \* ne-
  cessary that the cask  should he kept full, till it has
  done working.  The raisins should be 2^3ds Mala-
  ga, and 1t3(1  Muscadel.  Spring  and autumn are
  the best  seasons for making this wine.
          To make koumiss, a Tartar wine.
    Take of fresh mare's rdlk any quantity;, add to
  it a sixth part of water, and pour the mixture into
  a wooden vessel.  Use as a forment an eighth part
  of skimmed milkv but at any future preparation a
  small portion of  old  koumiss will  answer better.
  Cover  the vessel, with a thick cloth, and set it in a
  place of moderate warmth^ leaving it at rest foe
  twenty-four hours: at the end  of  which time the
I  milk will become sour, and a thick substance will:
  be gathered- on its  top..  Now,, with, a, churn staff,
I  beat it t,Ll the thick substance above-mentioned hi; 
WIN
blended intimately with the subjacent  fluid.  In
this situation, leave it at rest for twenty-four hours
more; after which, pour it into a higher and nar-
rower vessel, resembling a churn, where the agi-
tation must be repeated as before, till the liquor
appears to be perfectly homogeneous. In this state
it is called koumiss; of which  the taste ought to
have been a pleasant mixture of sweet  and sour.
Agitation must be employed every time before it
is  used.   This  wine  is cooling and antiseptic.
Sometimes aromatic herbs, as Angelica, are infused
in the liquor during fermentation.
            To make rhubarb wine.
  Take of sliced rhubarb, 2$ oz.—lesser cardamom
seeds, bruised and husked,^ oz.; saffron 2 drachms;
Spanish white wine, 2 pints; proof spirit, ^ pint.
Digest for ten days, and strain.  This is a warm,
cordial, laxative medicine.  It is used  chiefly in
Aveakness  of the stomach and  bowels,  a'nd  some
kinds of loosenesses, for evacuating the offending
matter and strengthening the tone of the viscera.
It may be given in doses of from half a spoonful to
three  jr four spoonsful or more, according to the
circunstances of the disorder, and the strength of
the p atient.
              To make sage wine.
  Bjil 26  quarts of spring water a  quarter of an
hour,  and  when  it  is blood warm, put 25 pounds
of Malaga raisins, picked, rubbed, and shred, into
it, with almost half a bushel of red sage shred, and
a porringer of ale yeast; stir all well  together,  and
let it stand  in  a tub, covered warm, six or seven
days,  stirring it once a day; then strain  it off,  and
put it in a runlet.  Let it work three or four days,
and then stop it up; when  it has stood six or seven
days, put in  a quart or two of Malaga  sack;  and
when it is fine bottle it.
           To make gilliflower wine.
  To three gallons of  water  put 6 pounds of the
jest powder sugar, boil the sugar and water toge-
ther for the space of half an hour, keep  skimming
it as the scum rises; let it stand to  cool, beat up
three ounces of syrup of betony with a large spoon-
ful of ale yeast, put it into the  liquor, and brew it
well together; then having a peck of gilliflowers,
cut from the stalks, put them into the  liquor, let
them infuse  and work together three days, covered
with a cloth; strain it,  and  put it into a cask,  and
let it settle for three or four weeks; then bottle it.
             To make turnip wine.
  Pare and  slice a number of turnips,  put them
into a cider press,and  press out all the juice.  To
everv gallon of the juice, add three pounds of lump
sugar; have a vessel ready large enough to hold the
juice, and put half a pint of brandy to every gallon.
Pour in the juice andlay something over the bungfor
a week, to see if it works;  if it does, do not bung it
down till it  has done  working; then stop it close
for three months, and draw it off into another ves-
sel.   When it is fine, bottle  it off.
  This is an excellent wine for gouty habits,  and
is much recommended in  such  cases  in lieu of any
other wine.
                   Rose wine.
  Take a well glazed earthen vessel, and put into
it 3 gallons of rose-water drawn with a  cold still.
Put into that a sufficient  quantity of rose leaves,
cover it close, and set  it for an hour  in a kettle or
copper of hot water, to take out the whole strength
and tincture of the roses; and when it is cold, press
the rose leaves hard into the liquor, and steep fresh
ones in it, repeating it till the liquor has got the
full strength of the roses.  To every gallon of li-
quor put three pounds of loaf sugar, and stir it well,
that it may melt and disperse in every part.  Then
put it  into a cask, or other  convenient  vessel, to
ferment, and put into it a piece of  bread toasted
ES.                                        131

 hard, and covered with yeast.  Let it stand about
 thirty days, when it will be ripe and have a fine
 flavour, having the whole strength and scent of the
 roses in it; and it may be greatly improved by ad-
 ding to it wine and spices.   By this method of in-
 fusion, wine of carnations, clove gilliflowers, vio-
 lets, primroses, or any other flower, having a cu-
 rious scent, may be made.
                  Barley wine.
   Boil half a pound of fresh barley  in 3 waters,
 and save 3 pints of the last water.  Mix it with a
 quart of while wine, half a pint  of borage water,
 as much clary water,  a little red rose-water, the
 juice of 5 or 6 lemons, 3 quarters  of a pound of
 fine sugar, and the thin yellow rind of a  lemon.
 Mix all these well together, run it through a strain-
 er, and bottle it. It is pleasant in hot  weather, and
 very good in fevers.
                English fig wine.
   Take the large blue figs, when pretty ripe, and
 steep them in white wine,  having made some slits
 in them, that they may swell and gather in the sub-
 stance of the wine.  Then  slice  some other figs,
 and let them simmer over a fire in water until they
 are  reduced to a kind of pulp.  Then strain out the
 water, pressing the pulp hard, and pour it as hot
 as possible  on the figs that  are imbrewed in the
 wine.   Let the quantities be nearly equal, but the
 water somewhat more than the wine and figs. Let
 them stand 24 hours, mash them  well together,
 and draw  off what will run without  squeezing.
■ Then press the rest, and if not sweet enough, add
 a sufficient quantity of sugar, to make  it so.   Let it
 ferment, and add to it  a  little honey and sugar-
 candy; then fine it with whites of eggs and a little
 isinglass,  and draw it off for use.
                 Sycamore wine.
   Boil 2 gallons of the sap half an  hour, and then
 add to it 4 pounds of fine powdered sugar.   Beat
 the  whites of 3 eggs to froth, and mix them wiih
 the  liquor; but take care that it is  not too hot, as
 that will poach the eggs.  Skin) it well, and boil
 it half an hour. Then strain it through a hair sieve,
 and let it stand till next day.   Then  pour it clean
 from the sediment, put half a pint of yeast to every
 twelve gallons, and cover it close  up with blankets.
 Then put it  into the barrel, and leave the  bung-
 hole open till it has done working.  Then «lose it
 up well, and after it has stood 2 months, bottle it.
 The fifth  part of the  sugar  must be loaf;  and if
 raisins are liked, they will be a  great addition to
 the  wine.
                   Balm wine.
   Take 40 pounds of sugar and 9 gallons of water,
 boil it gently for 2 hours, skim it well, and put it
 into a tub to cool.  Take 2 pounds and a half of
 the tops of balm, bruise them, and put them into a
 barrel, with  a little new yeast; and when the liquor
 is cold, pour it on the balm.  Stir it well together,
 and let it stand 24 hours, stirring it often.   Then
 close it up, and let it  stand 6 weeks.  Then rack
 it off and put a lump  of sugar into every  bottle.
 Cork it well, and it will be better the second year
 than the first.
          To make scurvy-grass wine.
   Scurvy-grass, or spoor.wort, is a  very sovereign
 medicinal herb, appropriated chiefly to the health
 of invalids.
   Take the best large scurvy-grass tops and leaves,
 in May, June, or July, bruise them well in a stone
 mortar, then put them in  a Avell glazed earthen
 vessel, and sprinkle them over with some powder
 of crystal  of tartar, then smear them with virgin
 honey, and being covered close, let  it stand 24
 hours; then set water over a gentle fire, putting to
 every gallon  3 pints of honey, and when the scum
 rises, take it off, and  let  it cool; then put the 
w
UNIVERSAL RECED7T BOOK.
 stamped scurvy grass into a barrel, and pour the
 liquor to it, setting the vessel  conveniently end-
 ways, with a tap at the bottom.  When it has been
 infuseo 24 hours, draw off the liquor, strongly press
 the juice and moisture out of the herb into the bar-
 rel or vessel, and put the liquor up again; then put
 a little new  yeast to it, and suffer it to ferment 3
 days, covering the place of the bung or vent with
 a piece of bread spread over with mustard seed,
 downward, iu a cool pl-ce, and  let it continue till
 it is fine and drinks brisk; then  draw off the finest
 part, leaving only the dregs behind: afterwards add
 more herbs, and ferment it  with whiles of eggs,
 flour, and fixed nitre, vei juice, or the juice of green
 grapes, if they are to be had; to which add 6 pounds
 of the syrup of mustard, all mixed and  well beaten
 together, to  refine it down, and it will drink brisk,
 but is not very pleasant; being here inserted among
 artificial  wines rather for the sake of health, than
 for the delightfulness of its taste.
      To make cheap and  wholesome claret.
  Take a quart  of fine draft Devonshire cider,
 and  an equal quantity of  good  port.  Mix them,
 and shake them.   Bottle them, and let them stand
 for a month.  The best judge will not be able to
 distinguish them from good Bordeaux.
              To make dry wine.
  Those Avho like a dry wine, should put into the
vat, at the commencement-of the vinous fermenta-
tion, an ounce or two of calcined gypsum, in fine
powder.
   MANAGEMENT OF BRITISH WINES.
          To guard against unripe fruit.
   If the season proves bad so that some fruits are
not sufficiently ripe, immediately after the vinous
fermentation, and the must of such fruit is put into
the  cask, it is to be rolled  two or three times a
day. for a week or two.  A spirituous fermentation
will soon commence, the bung of the cask  must
then he taken out, and the hole covered with a bit
cf light wood or canvass, and as any scum arises,
it should be taken away.  When the scum disap-
  Eears, fill up the cask, and bung it up.  But a vent-
  ole must be left open for a week.
          To  keep and manage wines.
   Wines will diminish, therefore the cask must be
kept filled up with some of the same wine, or some
other that is as good or better.
   They must at all times be kept in a cool cellar,
if not, they will ferment.  If wines are kept in  a
warm cellar,  an acetous fermentation will  soon
commence, and the result consequently will be vi-
negar.  The more a wine frets and ferments, the
more it parts wi'u its strength and goodness:  when
wines are found to work improperly in the cellar,
the vent-peg must be taken out for a week or two.
   If any wine ferments, after being perfected,  draw
off a quart aud boil it, and pour it hot into the  cask,
add a pint or a quart of brandy, and bung up a day
or two after.
   Or, draw  off the  wine, and fumigate the,  cask,
with one ounce of flower of brimstone, and half an
ounce of cinnamon, in  powder.  Mix the two to-
gether, and tie them up in a  rag.  Turn the bung-
hole of the  cask downwards, place the rag under
the bung-hole, and  set fire to it, so that the gas
ascends into the cask.  As soon as it is burnt out,
fill up the cask Avith  wine, and bung it up tight.
            'Jo sweeten afoul cask.
   Set fire to a pound or more of broken charcoal,
put  it into the cask and immediately till  up the
cask with boiling water.  After this, rol the cask
once or twice a day for a week; then pour out the
charcoal  and water, wash out the cask with  clean
.cold water, and .expose  it to the external  air for
=oome day*.
             To improve poor wines.
   Poor wines may be improved by being' racked
 off, and returned into the cask again; and then put-
 ting into the wine  about a  pound of jar or box rai-
 sins, bruised, and  a quart of brandy.
   Or,  put to the wine two pounds of honey, and a
 pint or two of brandy.   The  honey and brandy to
 be first mixed together.
   Or,  draw Off three or four quarts of such wine
 and fill the cask up with strong wine.
   To improve wine when lowering or decaying.
   Take one  ounce of roche-alum, make it into
 powder; then draw out four gallons of wine, mix
 the powder  with it, and beat  it well for half an
 hour; then fill up the cask, and when fine (which
 will be in a week's time or  little more), bottle it
 off.  This Avill make it drink fine and brisk.
              To restore flat wines.
   Flat wines may  be restored  by one pound of
 jar raisins,'one pound of honey, and half a pint of
 spirit of wine, beaten up in a  mortar with some of
 the wine, and then the contents p"t into the cask.
 To remove a musty or disagreeable  taste in wine.
   Put  into the cask three or four sticks of charcoal,
 and bung up the cask tight.   In a month after take
 them out.—Or, cut two  ripe medlars,  put ihem in
 a gauze bag, and suspend tl»em from the bung hole
 into the w.ne, and bung up the cask air-tight.  A
 month after take them out, and bung up the cask
 again.   Or, mix half a pound of bruised mustard-
 seed, with a pint or more of brandy, and stir it up
 in the wine; and two days after bung up the cask.
   Anothermode.—At the finish of the process, when
 the brandy or spirit is put to the wine, it is par-
 ticularly recommended that a quarter of an ounce
 of crystal camphor, in the  lump, be dropped into
 the bung-hole of each eighteen gallons ot wine.
  Another mode.—Oil poured upon wine, or any
 other liquor, will prevent it from  growing musty,
 or turning corrupt.
       'To take away the ill scent of wines.
   Bake a long roller of dough, stuck  well with
 cloves, and hang it in the cask.
     To pass white wine off'for champagne.
  Rack it often from the lees; and when very bril-
 liant, bott'e it off: this must be done between vin-
 tage time  and the  month of May1.
  It has (says Mr Carnel) been a most absurd  prac-
 tice with many families to  use green gooseberriej
 in order to imitate champagne wine; but green fruit
 is, by  no means, fit or proper for  the  making of
 any wine.   Nor, indeed, is it at all necessary in
 making an imitation of champagne.,
     7 o make wine sparkle like Champagne.
  Take great care  to rack off the wine well, and in
 March bottle it as quick as  possible.  The bottles
 must he very clean and  dry, and the corks of the
 best sort, made of  velvet or white cork.  In two
 months after, the wine will be in a fine  condition
 to drink.
          To clear foul or ropy wines.
  Take ^ ounce of chalk in powder, £ an ounce of
 burnt alum, the white of an egg, and one pint of
 spring water.
  Beat the whole up in a mortar, and pour it into
the wine; after which, roll  the  cask ten minutes;
and then place it  on the stand, leaving  the  bung
out for a few days.   As soon  as the wine is fine,
rack it off.
  Or take  one ounce of ground rice, ^ oz. of burnt
alum, and ^ oz. of bay-salt.
  Beat the  whole up in  a  mortar, with  a pint or
more of the wine, pour it into the cask, and roll it
ten minutes.  The cask must not be bunged up fot
a few days.  As soon as such wine becomes fine
rack it off.
  Or, bring the cask  of wine out of the cellar, and 
WINES.
133
place it in a shady situation to receive the circula-
tion of the air, and take out the bung.  In three
weeks or a month rack it off  into a sweet cask,
which fill up, and put into the wine an ounce of
cinnamon, in the stick; and bung it up tight.
   Another method.—Tap the cask, and put a piece
of coarse linen cloth upon that end of the cock
which goes to the inside of the cask; then rack it
into a dry cask to 30  gallons of wine,  and put in
5 ounces of powdered alum.   Roil and shake them
well together, and it will  fine down, and  prove a
very clear and pleasant wine.
         To correct green or harsh wiws.
   Take  1 oz. of salt, £ oz. calcined gypsum, in
poAvder, and 1 pint of skimmed milk.
   Mix those up  with a little of the wine, and then
pour the mixture into the cask: put in  a few lav-
ender  leaves, stir the wine with a stick, so as  not
to disturb the lees, and bung it up.
        To correct sharp, tart, acid wines.
   Mix 1 oz. of calcined gypsum in powder  and 2
pounds of honey, in 1 quart of brandy; pour  the
mixture into the wine, and stir it so as not to dis-
turb the lees;  fill up the cask, and  the following
day bung it up:—rack this wine as soon as fine.
   Or, mix ^ oz. of the salt of tartar, -J oz.  of cal-
cined gypsum, in powder, with a, pint of the wine;
pour it into the cask, and put an ounce of cinnamon
in the stick; stir the wine without disturbing  the
lees, fill up  the cask, and  the day following bung
it up.
   Or, boil 3  oz. of rice, when cold put it into a
gauze-bag, and immerge it into the wine; put into
the wine also a few  sticks  of cinnamon, and  bung
up the cask.  In e bout a month after, take the rice
out.
             To restore sour wines.
  Take calcined gypsum, in powder, 1 oz., cream
of tartar, in powder, 2 oz.
   Mix them in a pint or more of brandy;  pour it
into the cask;  put in,  also, a few sticks of cinna-
mon, and then stir the wine without disturbing the
lees.   Bung up the cask the next day.
   Another method.—Boil a  gallon of wine, with
some beaten oyster-shells  and crab's claws, burnt
into powder, an ounce of each to eveiy ten gallons
of wine; then strain out the liquor through a sieve,
and when cold, put it into wine of  the  same sort,
and it will give it a pleasant lively taste.  A lump
of  unslaked lime put into the cask will also keep
wine from turning sour.
            To fine or clarify wines.
   Boil a pint of skimmed milk; when cold, mix
with it an ounce of  chalk in fine powder,  pour it
into the cask, and roll  it ten minutes.   The fol-
lowing day, bung up the wine, and rack it off as
soon as fine.
   Or, take 1^ oz. of gum  arabic, in  fine powder,
and I oz. of chalk in powder.
   Mix those up  with a pint more of wine, pout* the
mixture into the cask, roll it ten minutes, and then
fill it up.  Bung it  up the next daf, and rack off
the wine as soon as fine.
  Or, take the yolk and white of an egg, £ oz. of
chalk, in powder, and £ oz. of burnt alum, in pow-
der.
  Beat those up in a mortar with a pint of spring
water, an 1 pour the mixture into the wine,  roll the
cask; thcti fill it up, and bung it up the next day.
Rack ott the wine as soon as fine.
               To sweeten wines.
  In 30 gallons of wine infuse a handful of the
flowers of clary;  then add a pound of mustard seed,
dry ground,  put it into a bag and  sink it to the
bottom of the cask.
        To stop the fermentation of wine.
  It is  in the first place necessary to consider
 whether the existing state of fermentation be the
 original or secondary stage of that process which
 comes on after the  former has ceased for several
 days, and is indeed the commencement of acetous
 fermentation.   That of the former kind rarely pro-
 ceeds beyond what is necessary for the perfect de-
 composition of the saccharine and other parts of the
 vegetable substances necessary for the production
 of spirit, unless the liquor be kept too warm oris
 too weak, and left exposed to the air after the vi-
 nous fermentation is completed.  The means to
 correct these circumstancesare sufficiently obvious.
 The heat for spirituous fermentation should not be
 above  60 degrees Fahrenheit; when it  is much
 above that point,  the liquor passes rapidly through
 the stage of vinous fermentation, and the acetous
 immediately commences.  When too long continu-
 ed fermentation arises from the liquor having been
 kept in a warm situation, it will be soon  checked
 by bunging, after being removed into a cold place;
 the addition of a small proportion of spirits of wine
 or brandy, previously to closing it up, is also pro-
 per.  A  degree of cold, approaching to the freez-
 ing point, will check fermentation of whatever kind.
 Fermentation of  this kind cannot be stopped by
 any chemical agent, except such as would  destroy
 the qualities of the liquor intended to be produced.
  The secondary  stage of fermentation, or the com-
 mencement of the acetous, may be stopped by re-
 moving the liquor to a cool situation; correcting
 the acid already formed; and if the liquor contain
 but little spirit, the addition of a proper propor-
 tion of brandy is requisite.
  The operation of racking is also necessary to pre-
 serve liquor in a vinous state, and to render it clear.
 This process should be performed in a cool place.
        To restore pricked British vnnes.
  Rack the  wines down to the lees into another
 cask, where the lees of good wines are fresh: then
 put a pint of strong aqua vitas, and  scrape  half s
 pound of yellow bees'-wax into it, which by heat-
 ing the spirit over a gentle  fire, will melt; after
 which dip a piece of cloth  into it, and when a little
 dry, set it on fire  with a brimstone  match, put it
 into the bung-hole, and stop it u-  close.
  Another method.—First  prepare a fresh empty
 cask that has had  the same  kind of wine in it which
 is about to be  racked, then match it, and rack off
 the wine, putting to every  ten gallons  two ounces
 of oyster powder, and half an  ounce of bay salt,
 then get the staff and stir it well about, letting it
 stand till it is fine, which will  be in  a few days;
 after which rack it off into another cask, (previous-
ly matched) and if the lees  of some wine  of the
same kind can be got, it will improve  it much.—
Put likewise a quart of brandy to every ten gallons,
and if the cask  has been emptied  a. long  time, it
will match better on that account; but if even a new
eask, the matching must not be omitted.   A fresh
empty cask is to be preferred.
  This method will answer for all made wines.
TO  MANAGE  FOREIGN WINE  VAULTS.
  The principal object to be attended to in the ma-
nagement of foreign wine vaults, is to keep them
of a temperate heat.   Care must be taken, there-
fore, to close up  every aperture or opening, that
there may be no  admission given to the exlernal
air.  The floor of  the vault should likewise be well
covered with saw-dust which must not be suffered
to get too dry and dusty,but must receive now and
then an  addition  of new, lest,  when bottling  or
racking wine, some of the old dust should fly into
it.  At most vaults, in the winter, it is necessary
to have a stove or  chafing-dish, to keep up a proper
degree of warmth.  In the summer time it will be
best to keep them as cool as possible. 
134
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
      To fit up a cellar of vrines and spirits.
   Provide a  good rope and tackling, to let down
 the casks into the vaults or cellar, and a slide, lad-
 der, or pulley for the casks to slide or roll on; a
 pair of strong slings; a pair of can hooks and a pair
 of crate hooks; a block of wood to put under the
 pipes when topping them over in a narrow passage,
 or in casing them; a small valinch to taste wines; a
 crane, and a small copper pump to rack off; two or
 three gallon cans, made of wood;  a large wooden
 funnel; two or three copper funnels from a quart to
 a  gallon each; two racking cocks; two wine  bot-
 tling cocks;  a brace and various  bits; two small
 tubs; a square basket to hold the corks; two small
 ti i funnels; a small strainer; two cork screws; two
 or three baskets; a whisk to beat the finings; three
 flannel or linen bags; a  strong irofi screw to raise
 the bungs; a pair of pliers; bungs, corks,  and vent
 pegs; two frets or middle sized gimlets; some sheet
 lead and tacks to put on broken  staves; brown pa-'
 per to put round cocks and under the lead, when
 stopping leaks; a staff with a chain at  one end to
 rumagethe wines, ike; shots and lead canister, or
 bristle brush, and two cloths to  wash bottles; two
 large tubs; some small  racks that will hold six
 dozen each; a cooper's adze; an iron and a wooden
 driver to  tighten hoops; two dozen  of wooden
 bungs of different sizes; a thermometer,  which is
to  be kept  in the vault,  a stove,  or chafingdish, to
keep the heat of the vault to a known temperature;
a few dozen of delph labels; a cupboard to hold all
the tools;  a spade, two good stiff birch brooms, and
a rake to level the saw-dust.
        Process of foreign wine making.
  When the grapes are ripe, and the  saccharine
principle is developed, they are then pressed, and
the juice which flows out is received in vessels ofa
 proper capacity, in which the fermentation appears,
and proceeds in the following manner.   At the end
of several day1,, and frequently after a few hours,
according to the heat of the atmosphere, the nature
of the grapes, the quantity of the liquid, and the
temperature of the place, in which  the operation is
performed, a movement is produced in the liquor,
 which continuallv inoreases; the volume of the fluid
increases; it becomes turbid and oily; carbonic acid
is discharged,  which fills all  the unoccupied part
of the vessel, and  the  temperature rises to  the
 72-5th degree.  At the end of several days these
 tumultuous motions subside, the mass falls, the li-
quor becomes clearer, and is  found to be less  sac-
 charine, more odorant,  and of a red colour, from
 the re-action of the  ardent spirit upon the colour-
 ing matter of the pellicle of the  grape.
  The wine is usually taken out of the fermenting
 vessel at the period when all the phenomena of fer-
 mentation have subsided.  When  the mass is set-
 tled, the colour of  the  liquor is well developed;
 when it has become clear, and its heat has disap-
 peared, it is put into casks, where, by a second in-
 sensible  fermentation,  the wine  is clarified, its
 principles  combine more perfectly together,  and
 its taste and smell become more  and  more deve-
 loped.  If this fermentation be  stopped or suffo-
 cated, the gaseous principles are retained, and the
 wine is brisker, and more of the nature of must.
              To make port wine.
  The dark red port is  made from grapes gathered
 indiscriminately, and thrown into a cistern, they
 are then trod, and their  skins and stalks left in the
 mass, Avhioh separate  during fermentation,  and
 form a dry head over the liquid.  When the fer-
 mentation is completed, the liquor underneath is
 drawn out, and casked.   Before being  brought to
 England it is mixed with one third of brandy to
 enable it to keep during the voyage: otherwise the
 carriage brings on the acetous fermentation, and
 the wine is converted into vinegar.
         French method of making wines.
   In  the southern parts of France, their way is
 with red wines to tread or squeeze  the grapes be-
 tween the hands, and let the whole stand, juice and
 husks, till  the tincture be to their liking; after
 which they press it.   For white wines, they press
 the grapes immediately, and when pressed, they
 tun the must and stop up  the vessel, leaving only
 the depth ofa foot or  more to give room for it to
 work.   At the end often days they fill this  space
 with some other good wine, that will not work it
 again.
             To rack foreign wines.
   The vault or  cellar should be  of a temperate
 heat, and the casks sweet and clean.   Should they
 have an  acid or musty  smell, i* may be remedied
 by burning brimstone matches in them: and if nol
 clean, rinse them  well out  with  cold Avater, and
 after draining, rinse with a quart of brandy, putting
 the brandy afterwards into the ullage cask.  Then
 strain the lees or bottoms through a flannel or linen
 bag.   But put the  bottoms of port into the ullage
 cask without going through  the filtering bag.  In
 racking  wine that  is not  on the stillage, a  wine
 pump is desirable.
      To manage and improve poor red port.
   If wanting in body, colour, and flavour, draw out
 thirty or forty gallons, and return the same quan-
 tity of young and rich wines.  To a can of which
 put three gills of colouring, with a  bottle of wine
 or brandy.   Then  whisk it well together, and put
 it into the cask,  stirring it well.  If not bright in
 about a week or ten days, fine it for use; previous
 to which put in at different times a gallon  of good
 brandy.   If the wine is short of body, put a gallon
 or two of brandy in each pipe, by a quart or two at
 a time, as it feeds the wine better than putting it in
 all at once.   But if the wines are in a bonded cel-
 lar, procure a funnel that will go to the  bottom of
 the cask, that the brandy may be completely incor-
 porated  with the wine.
                To manage claret.
   Claret is not a wine of a strong body,  though it
 requires to be  of a good age before it is  used, and
 therefore it should  be well managed; the best me-,
 thod is to feed it every two or three weeks with a
 pint or two of French brandy. Taste it frequently,
 to know what state it is in, and use the brandy ac-
 cordingly, but never put much in  at a time, while
 a little incorporates with the wine,  and  feeds and
 mellows it.
   If the claret  is faint, rack it into a fresh-emptied
 hogshead, upon the lees of good claret; and bung it
 up,  putting the bottom downwards  for  two  or
 three  days, that the lees may run through it.
                 To colour claret.
   If the colour be not yet perfect, rack it off again
 into a hogshead that  has  been newly drawn off,
 with the lees; then  take a  pound of turnsole, and
 put it into a gallon or two  of wine; let it  lie a day
 or two, and then put it into the vessel; after which
I lay the bung downwards for a night, and the next
I day roll  it about.
I   Or, take any quantity of damsons or black sloes,
■ and strew them with some of the deepest coloured
! wine and as much  sugar as will make  it into a sy-
 rup.   A pint of this will colour a hogshead of cla-
 ret.  It  is also good for red port wines, and may
 be kept ready for use in glass bottles.
        To restore  claret that drinks foul.
   Rack it off from  the  dregs on some fresh lees ot
 its own kind, and then take a dozen of new pippins,
 pare them, and take away the cores or hearts; then
 put them in the  hogshead, and if that is not  suih- 
WINES.
135
 c«ent, take a handful of the oak of Jerusalem, and
 bruise it; then put it into the wine, and stir it well.
         To make claret and port rough.
   Put into a quart of claret or port two quarts of
 sloes; bake them  in a gentle  oven, or over a slow
 fire, till a good part of their moisture is stewed out,
 then pour off the  liquor, and  squeeze out the rest.
 A pint of this will be sufficient for 30 or 40 gallons.
         To recover pricked foreign wines.
   Take a bottle of red  port that is,pricked,  add to
 it half an ounce of tartarized  spirit of wine, shake
 the  liquor  well together, and set  it by for a few
 days,  and it will be found much altered for the bet-
 ter.  If this operation  be  dexterously performed,
 pricked wines may be  absolutely recovered by it,
 and remain saleable for some time; and the same
 method may be used to malt liquors just turned
 sour.
       To manage hermitage and Burgundy.
   Red hermitage must be managed in the same
 way as claret, and the  white likewise, except the
 colouring, which  it does  not  require.  Burgundy
 should be managed in the same manner as red her-
 mitage.
            To manage IJsbon wine.
   B" the Lisbon is dry,  take out of the pipe thirty-
 five or forty gallons,"and put in the same  quantity
 of calcavella, stir it  well about, and this will make
 a pipe of good mild Lisbon: or, if it be desired to
 convert  mild into dry,  take the same quantity out
 as above mentioned before, and fill the pipe with
 Malaga Sherry, stirring it about as the other. The
 same kind of fining  used  for Vidonia will answer
 for  Lisbon wine; or it  may be fined with the
 whites and shells of sixteen eggs,  and a small hand-
 ful of  salt; beat it together to a  froth, and mix it
 with a little  of the wine: then  pour it  into the
 pipe, Etir it about, and let it have vent for three
 days; after which bung  it  up,  and in a few days it
 will be fine.  Lisbon, when bottled, should  be
 packed either in saw-dust or leaths in a temperate
 place.
            To manage Bucella wine.
   In fining it, proceed in the same way as  with the
 Madeira;  only  observe, that if  not wanted very
 pale, keep the milk  out of the finings.  This ten-
 der  wine should be fed  with a little brandy, for if
 kept in a place that is either too hot or too cold, it
 will be in danger of turning foul.
               To improve Sherry.
  If the Sherry be new  and hot, rack it off into a
 sweet  cask, add five gallons  of  mellow  Lisbon,
 which  will take oft"the hot taste, then give it a head,
 take a quart of honey, mix it with  a can of  wine,
 and  put it  into the cask when racking.   By this
 method sherry for present use will be greatly im-
 proved, having much the same effect upon it as
 age.
             To improve wliile wine.
  If the wine have an unpleasant taste, rack off one
 naif, and to the remainder add a  gallon  of new
 milk, a handful of bay salt, and as much rice; after
 which, lake a staff,  beat them well together for
 half  an hour, and fill up the cask,  and when rolled
 well about,  slillage it, and in a few days, it will be
 much improved.
  If the white wine is foul and has lost its colour,
 for a butt or pipe take a gallon of new milk, put it
 into  the cask, and  stir it well  about Avith  a staff;
and when it has settled, put in three ounces ,T is-
inglass made into a jelly, with a quarter ot a pound
of loaf sugar scraped fine, and stir it well about.
On the day following,  bung  it up, and in a few
days it av'iII  be fine and have a good colour.
           To improve wine by chalk.
  Add a little chalk  to the must, when it is some-
 what sour;  for the acidity arising  from citric and
 tartaric acids, there is thus formed a precipitate of
 citrate and tartrate of lime, while the must becomes
 sweeter, and yields a much finer wine.  Too muc"h
 chalk may render the wine insipid, since it is pro-
 per to leave a little  excess  of  acid in the must.
 Concentrate the must by boiling, and add the pro-
 per quantity of chalk to the liquor, while it is still
 hot.   Even acid wine may be benefited by the ad-
 dition of chalk.    Oyster-shells may be used with
 this view; and when calcined are a cleaner  carbo-
 nate of lime than common chalk.
              To renovate sick wine.
   Wines on the fret should be racked; if their own
 lee indicates decay they should  be  racked on the
 sound lee  of another wine of similar but stronger
 quality, to protract their decline: If this be done
 at an early period, it may renovate the sick wine;
 on these occasions giving the sick  wine  a  cooler
 place, will retard its progress to acidity; if conve-
 nient, such wines  should  be forced and bottled.
 Previous to bottling, or rather at the forcing, give
 it one, two, or three table-spconsful of  calcined
 gypsum finely pulverized.  This  will check  its
 tendency to  acidity, Avithout exciting much intu-
 mescence, without injuring the colour of the red
 wine, and  without retarding its coating to the bot-
 tle, which it rather promotes.   The proper forc-
 ing for red wines are, the whites of ten or twelve
 eggs,  beat up with one or two tea-spoonsful of salt,
 per hogshead, and well worked into the wine with
 a forcing-rod; the gypsum should  be first  boiled
 in a little water.  This is Intended to check the
 acetous process.  To retard the vinous, the French
 are in the  habit of burning  sulphur immediately
 under  the cask, and possibly the  sulphuric acid
 evolved by the combustion may  check its progress
 and prevent the necessity of an admixture.
                 To mellow wine.
   Cover the  orifices of the vessels containing it
 with bladder closely fastened instead of the usual
 materials,  and an aqueous  exhalation will pass
 through the bladder, leaving some fine crystalliza-
 tions on the  surface of the wine,  which,  when
 skimmed off, leaves the wine in a highly improved
 state of flavour.   Remnants of wine covered in this
 manner, whether in bottles or casks, will not turn
 mouldy as when stopped  in the usual way, but
 Avill be improved instead of being deteriorated.
      German method of restoring sour wines.
   Put a small quantity of powdered charcoal  in the
 wine,  shake it, and after it has remained  still for
 48 hours decant steadily.
          To concentrate wines by cold.
   If any kind  of wine  be exposed to a sufficient
 degree of  cold in frosty Aveather, or be  put into
 any place  where ice  continues  all  the  year,  as
 in ice-houses, and  there  suffered to freeze, the
 superfluous water contained  in  the  wine  will be
 frozen into ice, and will leave the proper' and  truly
 essential part of the wine unfrozen, unless the de-
 gree of cold should be very intense, or the wine but
 weak and poor.  When the frost is moderate, the
 experiment has no  difficulty, because not above a
 third or a  fourth part  of  the superfluous water
 will be frozen in a whole night; but if the cold
 be A'ery intense, the best way is, at the end ofa
 few hours,  when a tolerable  quantity  of ice  is
 formed, to pour out the remaining  fluid  liquor,
 and set it in another vessel to freeze again by itself.
  The frozen part, or ice, consists only of the wa-
tery part of the wine, and  may be throxfn away,
and the liquid part retains all the strength, and  is
to 'p preserved.  This will never grow sour,  mus-
ty, or mouldy, and may  at any time  be reduced to
wine of the common strength, by adding  to it as
much water as will make it up to the former quan-
tity. 
136
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOR.
              To fine white wines.
  Take an ounce  of isinglass, beat  it into thin
Bhreds with a hammer, and dissolve K, by boiling in
a pint of water; this, when cold, becomes a stiff
jelly.  Whisk up some of this jelly into a froth
with a little of the Avine intended to be fined, then
stir it well among the rest in the cask, and bung it
down tight; by this means the wine will become
bright in eight or ten days.
               To fine red wines.
  Take whites of eggs beat up to a froth, and mix
in the same manner as in white wines.
  Another  method.—Put  the shavings of  green
Deech into the vessel, having first  taken off all the
rind, and boil them for an hour in water to extract
their  rankness,  and  afterwards dry  them in the
sun, or  in an oven.   A bushel serves tor a tun of
wine; and  being mashed, .they serve  again and
again.
  Mortimer  recommends  to   gather the  grapes
when very dry, pick  them  from  the  stalks, press
them, and let the juice stanu twenty-four hours in
a covered vat.   Afterwards to draw it off from the
gross lees, then put it up in a cask,  and to add a
pint or quart of  strong red or  white port to every
gallon of juice, and let  the whole work,  bunging
it up Close, and letting it stand till January; then
bottling it in dry weather.
  Bradley chooses to have  the liquor, when  press-
ed,  stand Avith the husks and stalks in the vat, to
ferment for fifteen days.
          To fine a hogshead of claret.
  Take the Avhites and  shells of six fresh eggs, and
proceed as Avith port finings.   Claret requires to be
kept warm in saw-dust when bottled.
                To fine sherry.
  Take an ounce  and a half  of isinglass, beat it
Avith a  hammer till it can be pulled into small
pieces, then put it into  three pints of cider or per-
ry,  and let it remain twenty-four hours, till it  be-
comes a jelly.   After which mix it with a quartor
two of wine,  and Avhisk it well Aviththe  whites and
shells of six fresh eggs. Take four or five gallons
out to make room for the finings, and stir the wine
well.   Then nearly fill the can of finings with Avine,
whisk it well, and put it in the butt, stirring it well
for  about five  minutes; afterwards fill it up, and
put the bung in loose.  In two days bung it up, aud
in eight or ten it will be fit for bottling.
              To fine pale Sherry.
  Put three pints of skim-milk with the whites of
eight eggs, heat well together in a can; then put in
finings, in the same manner as for common sherry.
If the sherry be thin and poor, feed them with good
brandy as other wines.
                To fine Madeira.
  Take three ounces of isinglass, and dissolve it,
but if old wine two ounces will be enough, also one
quart of skim-milk, and half a pint of marble sand:
whisk these in a can Avith  some wine.  If the pipe
 is full, take out a canful,  and stir the pipe Avell;
then  put in the can of finings, and stir that  with  a
 staff for five minutes; after which put the other can
 of wine into it and let  it have vent for three days.
 Then close it up, and  in ten  days or a fortnight  it
 will be fine and fit for  bottling and  stoAving with
 saw-dust in a warm  place.
 To improve Madeira which  lias been round to the
                    Indies.
   Madeira should be kept in a warmer place than
 port wine, and therefore requires a good body, and
 to  be fed with brandy, but if deficient in flavour or
 mellowness, add to it a gallon or two of goodM.,jn-
 sey.
              To fine  Vidonia wine'.
   When first imported, Vidonia has a harsh  and
 acid taste; but if properly managed it more resem-
bles Madeira wine than any other.  To take off
the harshness, fine it down, and then rack it off
upon the lees of Madeira or  white port, fining it
again with a light fining; and if 20 or 30 gallons of
good Madeira wine be added, it will pass'for Ma-
deira.  For the finings, dissolve 2 ounces of isin-
glass and the whites and shells of 6 fresh eggs;  beat
them well up together with a whisk and add a gill
of marble sand.
       To fine Malmsey and other winex.
  Take 20 'fresh eggs, beat the whites, yolks, and
shells together, and manage it the same as other
finings.—Calcavella,  Sweet Mountain,  Paxaretta,
and Malaga, should be managed and fined in the
same manner as Lisbon.—Tent, Muscadine, Sack,
and  Bastard,  should be  managed the  same as
Malmsey, and fined with 16 or 20 fresh  eggs, and
a quart or three pints of skim-milk.—Old Hock,
and Vin de Grave, are thin but pleasant wines, and
should be fed with a little  good brandy, and fined,
if necessary, with the whites and shells of 6  or 8
eggs.
               To fine port wine.
   Take the whites and shells of eight fresh eggs,
beat them in a wooden can or pail, with a whisk,
till it becomes a thick froth; then add a little wine
to it, and whisk it again.  If the pipe is full, take
out four or five gallons of  the wine to make room
for the finings.   If the weather be  warmish, add a
pint of fresh water sand to the finings.   Stir it well
about; after which put in the finings, stirring it for
five  minutes; put in the can of wine, leaving the
bung out for a few hours,  'hat the  froth may fall;
then bung it up, and  in eight or ten days it will be
fine  and fit for bottling.
           To make and applyfiiungs.
   Put  the finings into a can or pail, with a little of
the liquor about to be fined, whisk them all toge-
ther till they are perfectly mixed, and then nearly
fill the can with  the liquor, whisking it well about
again;  after Avhich, if the.cask be full, take out four
or five gallons to make room; then take the staff,
and  give it a good stirring; next whisk the finings
up,  and  put them in; afterwards  stir it with the
stJT for  five minutes.  Then drive the  bung in,
and  bore a  hole with a gimlet, that it may  have
vent for  3 or 4 days, after which  drive  in a vent-
peg.
         To convert white wine into red.
   Put four ounces of turnsole rags into an earthen
vessel, and pour upon them a pint of boiling water;
cover  the vessel close, and leave it to cool; strain
off the liquor, Avhich will be ofa fine deep  red in-
clining to purple.   A small portion of this colours
a large quantity of wine.   This tincture may cither
be made in brandy, or mixed with it, or else made
into a syrup, with sugar, for keeping.
   In those countries which do not produce  the
tinging  grape  Avhich affords a blood-red juice,
 wherewith the wines of France are often stained,
in defect of this, the juice of elder-berries is used,
and sometimes log-wood is used at Oporto.
 To  force down the finings of all white wines, ar-
             racks, and small spirits.
   Put a few quarts of skimmed milk into the cask.
            '1 o render red wine white.
   If a few quarts of well-skimmed milk be put to a
hogshead of red wine, it will soon precipitate the
 greater  part of the  colour, and  leave the whole
 nea.ly white; and this is of known use in the  turn-
 ing red  wines, Avhen pricked, into white; in which
 a small degree of acidity is not so much perceived.
   Milk is, from this quality of discharging colour
 from wines, of use also to the wine-coopers, for the
 whitening of wines that have acquired a brown  co-
 lour from the cask, or from having been hastily
 boiled before fermenting;  for the  addition  of a lit- 
He skimmed milk, in these cases, precipitates the
brown colour, and leaves the wines almost lim-
pid,  or  of what  they call  a  water whiteness,
which is much coveted abroad in wiues as well as
in brandies.
      To preserve new wine against thunder.
   Thunder will turn  and often change wines.
■Cellars that are paved, and the walls of stone, are
preferable to boarded floors.   Before a tempest of
thunder, it will  be advisable to lay a plate of iron
upou the wine-vessels.
            To make wi.ie settle well.
   Take a pint of wheat, and boil it in a quart  of
water, till it burst and become soft; then squeeze
it throug'  a linen cloth, and put a pint of the liquor
into a hogshead of unsettled white  wine; stir it
well about, and it will become fine.
      To make a match for srv'eetening casks.
   Melt some brimstone, and dip into it a piece of
coarse linen cloth; of which, when cold, takeapiece
of about an inch broad and five inches long, and set
fire to it, putting it into the bung hole, with one
end fastened under the bung, which must be driven
in very tight: let it remain a  few hours before re-
moving it out.
             To make oyster powder.
   Get some fresh oyster shells, wash them, and
scrape off the yellow part from the outside; lay
them on a clear fire till they become red hot; then
lay them to cool, and take off the softest part, pow-
der it, and sift it through a fine sieve; after which
use it immediately, or keep it in bottles Avell cork-
ed up, and laid in a dry place.
            To make a filtering bag.
  This bag is made  of a yard  of either linen or
flannel, not too fine or close, and sloping, so as to
have the bottom of it run to a point, £.nd the top as
broad  as the cloth will allow.  It must be well
sewed up the side, and the upper part of it folded
round a wooden hoop, and well fastened to it; then
tie the hoop in three or four places with a cord to
support it; and when used; put a can or pail under
it to receive the liquor, filling the bag with the se-
diments; after it has  ceased to run, wash out the
bag in three or four clear waters, then hang it up
to dry in an airy place, that it may not get musty.
A wine dealer  should always have  two bags  by
him, one for red, and  the other for white wines.
                To bottle wine.
  When wine is made fine and pleasant,  it maybe
bottled, taking care afterwards to pack it in a tem-
perate place with saw-dust or leaths.   After which
it will not be fit to drink for at least two months.
Never use new  deal saw-dust, as  that causes the
wine to fret, and often communicates a strong tur-
pentine smell through the corks to the wine.
           To detect adv'terated wine.
   Heat equal parts of oyster shells and sulphur to-
gether, and keep them in a white heat  for fifteen
minutes, and when' cold, mix them with an equal
quantity of cream of tartar; put this mixture into a
strong bottle with common water to  boil for one
hour, and  then  decant into  ounce phials, and add
20 drops of muriatic acid to each; this liquor pre-
cipitates  the least quantity of lead,  copper, &c.
from wines in a  very sensible  black precipitate.
             To acted alum in wine.
  AVine merchants and alum to red Avine,to com-
municate to it a rough taste and deeper colour; but
this mixture produces on the system the most seri-
ous effects.  For the  discovery of the  fraud  in
question, adopt the following means:—The wine is
to be discoloured by means ofa concentrated solu-
tion of chlorine; the  mixture  is to be evaporated
until reduced to nearly the fourth of its original vo-
lume; the liquor is to be filtered; it then possesses
the following properties when it contains alum:—
JNES.                                       j 37

  1st, it has a sweetish  astringent taste; 2d, it fur-
  nishesa white precipitate (sulphate of barytes) with
  nitrate of bar >es, insoluDle in water and in nitric
  acid; 3d, caustic potash  gives rise to a yellowish
  white precipitate of alumine, soluble in an excess
  of potash; 4th, the sub-carbonate of soda produces
  a yellowish  Avhite precipitate (suD-carbonate  of
  alumine) decomposable by fire into carbonic acid
  gas, alumine, easily recognizable by  its charac-
  ters.                    ,
   Another mode.—Add  to  the  wine  a sufficient
  quantity of a strong solution of  chlorine water,
  (oxygenated  muriatic acid) until it is changed to a
  yellow  colour:  let the precipitate, (composed of
  the chlorine  and the vegeto-animal matter contain-
  ed in the wine), which immediately forms, become
  settled, then filter the liquor, and' evaporate it to
  £th of its volume; it will now, in  consequence of
  the presence of the alum, have an astringent sweet-
  ish taste, and will furnish a white precipitate  on
  the addition  of nitrate of barytes, which is insolu-
  ble in water and in nitric acid.   It will give a yel-
  lowish white precipitate with pure potass, that is
  soluble on fheliddition of an excess of the potass;
  and a precipitate of the same, colour, with the sub-
  carbonate of soda.
  To detect lead and copper in wine, qider, perry,&c.
   Put into a crucible 1 oz. of sulphur,  and I oz. of
  pure lime; and  keep them in  a white heat for
  nearly half an hour; when cold,  add 1 ounce of the
  super-tartrate of potass, and boil  the  whole in a
  matrass with some distilled water  for half an hour.
  Decant the supernatant  liquor  into  small phials,
  adding about 20 or 30 drops of muriatic acid to
  each.  The phials must  be well stopped and pre-
  served for use.  Lead, copper and other deleterious
  metals will be precipitated, of a black colour, by
  this liquid, if poured, in  the quantity of only a few
  drops, into the  suspected wine or cider.
   Another mode.—Another test for these perni-
  cious metals in wine andcider, exists ready formed
  in nature.   Pour into a glass of suspected wine,
  cider, or perry,  a few drops of Harrowgate water.
  If any lead, &c.  be present  it will fall down in the
  state  of a black  precipitate, being combined with
  the sulphuretted hydrogen by which these waters
  are impregnated.
   Lead is used by many wine-merchants  to give
  an astringency to port-wine; that,  like old port, it
  may appear rough to the tongue.   Sometimes they
  hang a sheet  of lead in  the cask; at others they pour
  in a solution of acetate (sugar) of lead,  for the pur-
  pose  of sweetening, as  they term ic.
  To detect lead, corrosive sublimate, and antimony
                  in wines,  &c.
   Sulphuric  acid decomposes them with precipi-
  tate,  that  is blackish  when antimony  is present,
  but w/dte with the two first mentioned: then, let
  the precipitate be washed with boiling  water; if it
  change not, it is lead; if if acquire  a yellow colour,
  it is mercury.
            Another test for lead in  wine.
   Whatever quantity of lead resides in wine, may
:  be precipitated by mixing with it a fluid, made by
;  exposing powdered oyster-shells and sulphur, equal
i  quantities, to a white heat for a quarter  of an hour;
  and when the compost  is cold, add as much cream
  of tartar thereto.   Put the whole in a strong bottle
j  with  common Avater, and let the liquor  boil an
  hour; pour off the solution into ounce phials, each
  of which will be sufficient for a cask of wine, and
  add to each 20 drops of muriatic acid.   Every por-
  tion of lead it may contain, will be  found at the
  bottom, in  the form of  a black cindery precipitate.
  Having collected a sufficient quantity of this preci-
 pitate, upon an iron plate, expose it to  a heat and
 the lead will  rim off.
                                       M  2 
 138                           UNIVERSAL  E

  Another.—Take a paste of sulphur and iron fil-
ings, put it into  a  phial, and pour on it a  small
quantity of sulphuric acid.   Pass rhe gas,  which
will arise, through  a bent tube, into  a bottle of
water:  when thus impregnated, it will  form a new
and improved  test for the purpose.   When poured
into wine which contains litharge, it will render it
black arid fiakey,  and occasion a considerable pre-
cipitation.
         Note by the American Editor.
  The culture of the vine, and the art of obtaining
its delicious products, are subjects of so much pub-
lic interest  in this country at this particular mo-
ment,  that no apology is necessary for digressing
a moment, to  state,  that in  the " Vine-Dresser's
  The object of distillation is the preparation of
alcohol or pure spirit, which is obtained from bran-
dy, rum, arrack, and whiskey, prepared from wine,
sugar, rice, and malt.  It also includes compound
spirits, or those which, in addition to alcohol, con-
tain some volatile or pungent oil or essence,—as
gin, hollands, caraway,  and peppermint; the es-
sential oils, as oil of cinnamon, oil of clcves, oil of
peppermint, and otto of roses; and the simple dis-
tilled waters, which retain the fragrant flavour of
the particular herbs with which they have  been dis-
tilled.
             To manage distillation.
  Previous to distilling, the processes of brewing
and fermentation are necessary. In distilling, there
is only one general rufo, namely, to let the heat, in
all cases, be as  gentle as possible.   A water-bath,
if sufficiently large, is preferable to any  other mode,
and will  perform the operation with all the  dis-
patch requisite for the most extensive  business.
The spirit, as it first comes over, should be receiv-
ed into a quantity of cold water; as, by this means,
the connexion between  it aud the oily matter will
oe considerably lessened.   For the same reason,
after it has been once rectified in the water-bath,
it should be again mixed with an equal quantity of
water, and distilled a second time.  After the  spi-
rit has been distilled once or twice in this manner,
from water, it  may  be  distilled  in a  water-bath
without any addition; and this last rectification will
free it from the greater part of the water which it
may contain.
  In distilling compound  spirits, a  small still-has
been found to answer better than a large one.
                    Utensil*.
  In a distillery are required a variety of utensils,
such as a still, worm-tub, pump, a water-cask, a
strong press, hair-cloths, three or four iron-bound
tubs, capable of containing from  a  hogshead to a
pipe,  of any liquor; three or four cans, capable of
holding from two to six  gallons by measure, an
iron-bound  wooden funnel, having  a  strong iron
nosel, or pipe; a pewter syphon, about six feet and a
half long, and four inches iu circumference; flannel
bags,  for refining the thick and feculent matter at
the bottom of the casks and other vessels.
             Operation of the still.
  When the still is charged, let the fire under it
be lighted; and  whilst it burns up, the joints should
je carefully luted.
5CE1PT BOOK.

 Manual, and Art of making Wine, Brandy, and
 Vinegar, by Thiebant de Berneaud,"  published
 by P. Canfield, New York,  1829, every particular
 relative thereto is to be found.   This little volume
 is wholly practical,  and should  be procured, and
 attentively  studied by every one who intends plant-
 ing a vineyard.  Indeed, of so much importance
 does the editor consider the book in question, that,
 had time been afforded him to procure the origi-
 nal, he  should have transferred ii  wholly to  this
 work. Though no legal obstacles prevented his using
 the New York translation, others not less imperi-
 ous forbade him.   Any of the booksellers of New
 York, or Philadelphia, can procure the treatise id
 question; and again  I say to  those interred, pur-
 chase and study it.
  By laying the hand on the still  and capital, as
the fire gains strength, the process of the operation
will be ascertained; for, whenever the head, or ca-
pital, feels hot, it is a proof that the volatile parti-
cles have arisen, and  are about to enter the worm.
When the still head is about to become hot, pre-
pare a damp, made of the  ashes under the grate,
mixed with as much water  as will properly wet
them.   This mixture is to be thrown upon the fire,
to moderate its action, at the instant when distilla-
tion has commenced.   Continue the heat  as long
as the  distilled liquid is  spirituous to the taste.
When the distilled liquor carries with it any par-
ticular flavour, it should be re-distilled with essen-
tial oils, in  order  to  convert it into a  compound
spirit,  as gin, peppermint, and other cordials.
  When all the spirituous fluid is drawn'  off, the
still should be emptied by a cock in the side. The
head, &c. should then be removed, and the several
lutes taken clean off.  The still may now be charg-
ed a second time, and luted.  If the spirit, or com-
pound  to be  made, is of' a different nature or flavour
from that procured by the last distillation, the still,
capital, and worm  should  be thoroughly cleaned
by hot water, sand, and a scrubbing brush, to re-
move the oily  particles which adhere to their in-
ternal  surfaces.  The worm is best cleansed by
passing hot water through it  repeatedly, until the
water flows out quite flavourless.
  Great care should be taken that  no grease, tal-
low, soap, or any other unctuous matter, fall into
the tubs, pieces,  rundlets,  or cans.—Above all
things,  lighted candle?, torches, or papers, should
not be  brought  near any vessel containing spirits.
The flue or chimney should be kept  constantly
clean.
           To use a portable furnace.
  In the  laboratories  of experimental  chemists,
portable furnaces are  employed.  Charcoal is the
only fuel that can be used in them, except the  oc-
casional use of the  finer  kinds  of  stone coal that
yield a bright flame, and burn to a white ash with-
out forming clinkers.   When the fire is regulated
by the  admission of only the necessary quantity of
air through the charcoal, and the whole  heat of the
fuel is  directed upon the subject exposed to it, the
expense is .not so great as might be supposed, for
no other fuel gives out so much heat.  One lb. of
charcoal will boil away 13  lbs. of  water, whereas
the same weight of Newcastle coal  will boil away
II
I
DISTILLATION. 
DISTILLATION.
139
   only 8 or 9 lbs.  A pound of coke will only boil
   away 4 lbs. of water, and a pound of peat seldom
   more than 5 lbs. or by a skilful mode of using it at
   the utmosLlO lbs.
               Ts build fixed furnaces.
     Windsor bricks  are generally used, as they may
   be cut as easily as chalk, and  yet  bear a violent
   heat without alteration; they must be set in clay of
   the same field.  The parts  distant from the fire
   may be of common bricks set in  mortar, but this
   mortar must be carefully removed before the other
   part is begun, as an accidental admixture of it with
   the clay would  cause the latter to run iuto  glass,
   and thus spoil  the furnace.  These furnaces are
   generally built  as  thin as possible  that they may
   take up the less room, and to save fuel in heating
   them as they  have  seldom  fire constantly in them;
   in this case, they should be  surrounded with iron
   braces, to prevent the alternate contraction and ex-
(   pansion destroying them as soon as they otherwise
   would.
            To make a portable sand-pot.
     For a portable one, the  ash pit may be an iron
   cylinder,  17 inches in diameter and  8 deep, closed
   at bottom.  In the  front is cut a hole 3 inches high
   and 4 wide, with sliders to shut close.  Three pins
   are riveted  on the inside about an inch below the
   upper edge; these are to support the fire-place.
   The bottom of this ash pit is lined with clay, beat
   up with charcoal dust and formed into a kind of
   saucer. The fire-place is a small cylinder of nearly
   the same width,  so as to fit easily into the top of the
   ash pit, and rest on the three pins; its height is.15
   inches, and  it has a flat border at each end, leaving
   a  circular opening of 10 inches in diameter. Around
   the lower border are riveted three screws, to which
   are fixed,  by nuts,  a grate.  In  the upper border,
   toAvards the circumference, and  at equal distances
   from each other, are made  four circular holes an
   inch over.  The inside of the fire-place  is  lined
   with clay  and  charcoal, whose surface is adjusted
   to a core, made  by  drawing on a board an  ellipsis,
   having its foci 15 inches asunder, and its  semior-
   dinates at the  foci 5 inches, sawing off the  board at
   each focus, and also down the greatest diameter, so
   that the.internal cavity may represent an ellipsoid
   of those dimensions, cut off at  the foci.  A fire-
   hole about 6 inches wide and 4 inches and a half
   high, Avilh the lower limit about 3 inches above the
   grate, is left in the  front to be closed with a  lined
   stopper; both  the fire hole and stopper having  a
   border to  retain the lining.   When the lining is
   dry, four  openings  are cut sloping through it, cor-
   responding to  the ooenings in the upper border, to
   serve as vents for the burnt air, and to regulate the
   fire by sliding pieces of tile more or less over them.
   In the central  opening at the top of the fire-place is
   hung  a cast-iron pot, either hemispherical, or,
   which is  most usual, cylindrical, about 6 inches
   deep at the edge, Avith a rounded  bottom, so that
   the axis is about an inch deeper.  The common
   pots  have only  a  reflected  border by which they
   hang;  but the  "best  kind have also an upright edge
   that rises  an inch higher, to  which  a stone-ware
   head is fitted;  and thus the pot serves for many dis-
  tillations that require a strong fire.  It is usual to
  cut a notch on one side of the  top of the fire-place,
   sloping upwards to the edge  of the pot,  about  3
  inches wide and 2 deep, to admit alow retort to be
   sunk deeper into the pot, by allowing a passage to
  its neck.
            To make  a sand-heat furnace.
     A furnace of  this kind  may  be stationary, and
  built of bricks that  will stand  the fire: and in this
  cjse, the ash pit is built about 12 inches high, and
  has  an ash-door opening into it about 6 inches
  square; a grate is then laid, and a fire-door 6 inches
  by 8 opens immediately into  the fire-place,  even
  with the grate.  The fire-place is made cylindrical,
  2 inches wider than  the  sand pot,  and about 8
  inches deeper; the grate being a square whose side
  is about two-thirds the internal diameter of the
  sand-pot.  This pot hangs  by  its border in an iron
  ring placed at the top of the furnace;  we have no.
  yet adopted Teichmeyer's method  of sloping the
  pot  As stone coal is generally used in fixing fur-
  naces, instead of the 4 register holes used as vents
  in the portable furnaces, only one opening,  about
  as wide as the  grate, and  3 inches high, either in
  the back or on one side, is  made to vent the burned
  air into the chimney.  This, however, has the in-
  conveniency of heating the pot unequally, the side
  next the vent becoming much  the hottest, in  spite
  of the endeavour to equalize the heat by bringing
  the fire from under the centre  of the pot as forward
  as possible, by raising the wall opposite to the vent
  perpendicularly, and enlarging it only on the other
  three sides; sometimes, with the same view, seve-
  ral small vents are made  round the pot, leading
  into the chimney.  A notch for the neck of the re-
  tort is generally made on one side.  As much heat
  passes through the vent, it is usual  to cause the
  heated  air to pass under  a large cast-fron plate,
  placed on a border of bricks  surrounding a  plat-
  form of the same materials, and leaving a cavity of
  about 2 inches and a half deep, at the further end
  of which, another opening  leads into the chimney.
  On this iron plate, sand is laid to form a sand  heat,
  and thus several operations are  carried  on  at the
  same time.  If that in the sand-pot is finished, and
  it is desired to  keep  on  those in  the  sand-heat
  without interruption, the vessel may be drawn out
  of the sand, some warm sand  thrown on that re-
  maining in the pot, and a  fresh vessel with mate-
  rials introduced. But if this new operation should
  require the neat to be more giadually exhibited, 3
  pot of thin plate iron, filled Avith cold sand, con-
  taining the vessel, may be partly slid into the heat-
  ed  sand-pot, and, being supported  by  pieces of
  brick placed under the edge or otherwise,  kept
  there until it be necessary to increase the heat,
  when it may be slid down  lower until at'length it
  is permitted to  reach the bottom of the sand-pot.
                To make a hot  still.
   Portable  hot stills should  have an ash-pit and
  fire-place exactly similar  in dimensions to  those
  used with the sand-pot, or  the same furnace  may
  be used with a hot still, if economy and not conve-
  nience is the principal object.   The copper or tin
  plate cucurbite will, of course, be 10 inches wide,
  and  about 12 deep, and hang  7  inches within the
  fire-place.   The  mouth should  be wide, that the
  water-bath to be  occasionally hung within it so as
  to reach within 3 inches of the bottom may be the
  larger.  Between this wide neck and the circum-
  ference there should be a short pipe, through which
  the liquor left after distillation may be drawn off
  by a crane without  unluting the vessels;  fresh li-
  quor added; or, in distilling with the water-bath,
  the steam may escape.  This pipe has a ring round
  it, that the cork with which it is stopped may be
  firmly tied  down, and  like the  other joinings be
i  luted; for which  purpose slips of paper  smeared
  with flour and water, or common paste, are usually
  esteemed sufficient; but the best material is blad-
  ders rotted in  water until they smell extremely
  offensive and adhere to the  fingers when touched,
 and  then worked between  the  hands into  rolls,
  which are  to be applied to the joinings.  These
 small stills havt  usually a  Mpor's head that fits
 both the cucurbite and the water-bath, their necks
 being of equal diameter, and is  furnished with a
 groove round the lower part on the inside to direct
 the condensed vapour to the nose of the alembick; 
 140                            UNIVERSAL Rl

and this head is surrounded by a refrigeratory con-
taining cold water, which is not so cumbersome as
and less expensive than a worm and tub.  But  the
most advantageous way of cooling the vapours i-s to
use a Moor's head without  a surrounding refrige-
ratory, or only a plain bent tube, which should be
at least 18 inches long, that the small  globules of
the boiling liquor which are thrown up near a foot
high, should not pass over,  and render the distilled
liquor unfit for keeping.  To this is to be adapted
a pewter pipt;, about 8 feet  long if spirit of wine is
to be distilled; or  shorter for watery  liquors; and
in both cases | of an inch in diameter on the inside,
inclosed in a tinned plate tube with a funnel. With
an adopter of this kind, and the consumption of a
pint and a half of water in a minute, or about 9 gal-
lons in an hour,  spirit of wine  may be distilled at
the rate of a gallon by the hour, from  one of these
portable stills. Another convenience of these straight
pipes is, that they may be cleansed in  the sume
manner as a fowling piece.
             'Jo make a large still.
  If this furnace is fixed, and made of bricks, it
may be constructed with a  sand heat like that  an-
nexed to the sand-pot: but this is seldom practised,
although it would be advantageous  for digestions
and evaporations with a  gentle heat,  because  the
fire is generally kept up at  an even height.  If the
cucurbite is not wanted  for distilliug, it may be
used as a boiler to keep water ready heated for use,
and to be drawn off when wanted by.a syphon or
crane.   But these fixed stills are usually furnished
with a pipe and cock on  a  level with the bottom,
by which they can be emptied, and have almost al-
ways a worm and tub to cool the vapours; the head )
is usually of that kind which is called a  swan's
neck.
             Astier's improved still.
  It has been proved that as soon as a common still
is in operation, the steam from the  capital  in  the
first turn of the worm is at  a temperature of 80°, or
100° of  Reaumur.  Here  water only condenses,
and the alcohol in vapour passes into the second
turn, where it condenses by the lowered tempera-
ture.  If the condensed liquid  is drawn  off from
the upper turn, it is mere phlegm, or water; while
that from the second turn is alcohol, or spirit. The
mode of doing this is very simple, and can be  ap-
plied to any old  still; so  that every advantage  re-
sulting from the most complicated  and expensive
stills can be obtained; that is to say, plain brandy,
Dutch proof, and even thirty-five and thirty-sixth
■>roof.  The  alterations  are effected as follows.
Each turn of the worm is to  be furnished  with a
very slender  lateral pipe, ending in a faucet and
tap.  A crescent shaped  valve, placed just  before
the opening of the pipe into the worm, obliges the
condensed  liquid to trickle into the  pipe, and a
slight elbow above and  below the  pipe prevents
any of the steam from running in the same direc-
tion.  Each of these pipes follows the main  worm
in all its convolutions, comes out  of the condenser
at the same opening, and is led thence to its own
receiver.  The pipe of the first turn has also a se-
cond branch with a faucet, which lets out the phlegm,
(which is worthless) as fast as it is condensed.   A
prover indicates the moment when the feints should
 tie separated, as simple brandy or proof spirit is
 wanted.  These feints are  either detained  in  the
 ooiler, or set aside for  rectification, in  all cases
 necessary for the last spirit that comes over, with-
 out which it  is worthless.              _         I
   Besides  producing more  spir'u, and saving three- .
 fourths out of the feints,  the worm  prepared as
 above shortens the term of distillation by one half,
 »nd consequently reduces the expense of fuel.   In
 addition to this, and what is of more consequence,
:eceipT BOOK.

 a sour Avine may be distilled as well as any other,
 and without the least taint being perceptible in the
 brandy.  The spirit is,  ot course, less in quantity,
 but whatever is obtained is good, and all the acid
 separates and flows out by the fi'st pipe, which
 gives an opportunity of profiting by the acetous por-
 tion.
          To extinguish  fire in distilleries.
   A woollen blanket or rug,  hnng over a roller in
 a water-butt, is the readiest and best extinguisher.
                 To dulcify spirits.
   In dulcifying, or sweetening the spirits, Aveigh
 the sugar, and dissolve  it in one or more cans of
 the water, with which the compound is to be made
 up: bruise the sugar, and stir it well, till all is  dis-
 solved.  Then empty it into  the cask containing
 the spirits; mixing all together, by drawing off se-
 veral cans by the cock, and emptying them into the
 casks by the bung  holes.  Now  rummage all well
 together, till they  are perfectly compounded.
   "Spirits or compounds that are strong, require no
 assistance in setting, and becoming clear; but those
 that are weak must be refined by the addition of
 some other substance.   To every hogshead of  Ge-
 neva, or other spirituous compound, put six ounces
 of powdered alum, previously dissolved in three ot
 four gallons of the  compound: stir all well together.
 In the course of twenty-four hours, the whole  will
 be rendered completely clear.
   It is a good practice to leave the bung-holes of
 casks  (containing spirits  or  compounds newly
 made) open for  several days: this improves their
 flavour; and renders them clear, sooner than they
 would otherwise.be.
   Table-salt thrown into the still, in the  propor-
 tion of 6 ounces to 10 gallons of any liquid  to be
 distilled, will greatly improve the flavour,  taste,
 and  strength of the spirit.  The viscid matter  will
 be  fixed by the salt, whilst  the  volatile  matter
 ascends in a state  of great purity.
   The flavour of malt  spirits is highly improved
 by putting 3^ ounces of finely powdered charcoal,
 and 4$ ounces of ground rice, into  a quart of spi-
 rits, and letting it stand during 15 days, frequent-
 ly stirring it; then let the  liquor be strained,  and
 itwill be found nearly ofthesame flavour as brandy.
                To make charcoal.
   This is usually manufactured from coppice wood,
 cut  every 16 years; the faggots are made  into a
 large conical pile, covered  up with  clods of earth,
 leaving circular rows of holes from top to bottom.
 The wood is then  kindled, and as  it becomes  red,
 the holes are regularly closed to stop the further
 combustion, and when the  whole has been closed
 up, the pile is left to cool; Avhen the black skeleton
 ot the  wood is left, which differs from  the  raw
 Avood in burning without any smoke, and with lit-
 tle or no flame, yielding at the same time no sool,
 although some of the finer particles of the ashes are
 volatilized and adhere to the chimney.  The air
 which passes through the burning charcoal has its
 oxygenous part  converted  into carbonic acid  gas,
 without being, when cooled, any ways altered in
 bulk, although its weight by the gallon is increased
   The air being thus rendered unfit for respira-
 tion, kills whatever animals or plants are confined
 in it: numerous accidents have happened of persons
 being suffocated by sleeping in close rooms with s
 charcoal fire.
   The cnarcoal for medical purposes should,  like
 that for gun-powder, be nude of soft woods, as al-
 der, heated in  iron long necks until no volatile
 matter is given out. Small quantities may be made
 by burying wood u.ider sand  in a covered crucible,
 and exposing the whole to fire.
              To make spirit of wine.
    Spirit of wine, as it is called, was formerly, and 
DISTILLATION.
141
 is still, in southern countries, obtained by distill-
 ing wine for  its yield of brandy, and then slowly
 aostracting the  more volatile part of the brandy, by
 a small tire and the use of tall vessels.  In England,
 spirit of wine is, in general, obtained from ground
 meal, either of wheat, rye, or barley, with from
 one-tenth to one-third of the same, or another grain,
 malted and ground, and then called malt spirit; or
 from treacle, and then called molasses spirit;  some
 is also made from apples, or cider wash.   The
 fermentation is carried on quicker and farther than
 in brewing or making cider, in order that all the
 sugar in the wash may be converted into spirit and
 water.  The infusion of the malt and meal is made
 so strong, that its specific gravity is from 1.083 to
 1.14, (whereas  that for strong ale is generally 1.06
 and for small beer, 1.015  to  1.04) and is mixed
 with a large quantity of yeast,  added by successive
 portions, until,  in about ten days, the specific gra-
 vity is reduced  to 1.002, when it is fit for the still.
 In general, a third part is drawn off at the first stil-
 ling, under the  name of low wines, the specific gra-
 vity being about 0.975.   On  ie-distilling  the  low
 wines, a fiery spirit, of a  milky cast, comes  over
 first, and is returned into the still: then follows the
 clean spirit: when it  begins to grow  too  watery,
 the remaining spirit that comes over, as long as it
 will take  fire, is  kept apart, under the name of
 feints, and mixed with the next parcel of low wines.
 Instead of these trials, the head of the  still  may
 have the bulb of a thermometer inserted  into it,
 and  by observing the temperature of the steam, an
 accurate judgment may be  formed of the strength
 of the spirit that distills over.   It is computed, that
 100 gallons of malt or corn wash will produce about
 20 of spirit, containing about half its weight of wa-
 ter;  mohsses wash, 22 gallons; cider wash, 15 gal-
 lons.  The best French wines yield from 20  to 25
 gallons.   The spirit thus obtained is for chemical
 and  pharmaceutical purposes mixed with water, to
 separate the oil  it  contains, and re-distilled several
 times in tall vessels, with a very gentle heat, until
 its specific gravity is reduced to 0 82; though that
 usually sold is.only 0.837, at  60 deg. Fahrenheit.
 By  distilling spirit  of  wine  with  purified  pearl
 ashes, salt of tartar, muriate of lime, lime, or com-
 mon salt,  all  previously heated to redness, and
 cooled, its specific gravity may be reduced still
 lower, even aVlow as 0.792, at 68 deg. Fahrenheit;
 hut there  is reason to think, that it not only  parts
 with  water, but also undergoes some change, or
 acquires some impregnation by these additions, as
 its taste is altered.   This spirit of wine, from which
 every particle of water is separated, is called by
 the Arabic name of alcohol.
                To make ether.
  The  old chemists, after  mixing spirit of wine
 with an equal weight of oil of vitriol, digested it for a
 long time, and then distilled the most volatile part,
 which was called the sweet oil of vitriol.   At pre-
 sent, the mixture, whose temperature is consider-
ably increased,  is  placed in a heated sand bath and
distilled,  without being suffered to cool until one
half the quantity of the spirit is come over, mean-
while, an  inflammable gas also  passes over.  If
the distillation is continued, sulphurous acid passes
over, and a light  yellow sweet  oil of wine; the
black residuary sulphuric  acid contains charcoal
diffused through it, which may be separated by ad-
mixture with water and filtration.  If fresh alco-
hol is poured on the residuum, more ether may be
obtained by distillation.  The unrectified ether, as
the first product is called, contains both water and
alcohol: dry salt of tartar separates the first,  and
then pouring off the upper liquid, and adding dry
muriate of lime in powder, this salt unites  with
tlxe alcohol, and the ether swims on the solution.
            To imitate foreign spirits.
   A  great desideratum among distillers,  in this
 country, is to imitate foreign spirits, such as bran-
 dy, rum, geneva, fkc. to a tolerable degree of per-
 fection; but, notwithstanding the many attempts
 that are daily made for this purpose, the success,
 in general, has been indifferent.  The general me-
 thod of distilling brandies in France, differs ii. no-
 thing from that practised here, with malt-wash or
 molasses; nor are the French distillers in the least
 more cleanly  in their operations.   Still, though
 brandy is distilled  from wine, experience tells us
 that there is a  great difference in the grapes  from
 which  the wine  is made.   Eveiy soil, every cli-
 mate, every kind of grape, varies with regard to
 the quantity and  quality of the spirit distilled from
 them.  A large quantity of brands is distilled in
 France during the time of the vintage: for the
 poor grapes that  prove unfit for  wine, are usuallv
 first gathered,  pressed, their juice fermented, anil
 instantly distilled.  It is a general rule with them,
 not to distil wine that will fetch any price as wine;
 for, in this  state,  the  profits obtained are much
 greater than when  the wine is reduced to brandies.
   For a long time, this  liquor was  distilled only
 from spoilt wine, and afterwards from the dregs of
 beer and wine; and when, instead of these,-the dis-
 tillers employed lye, wheat, and barley, it was con-
 sidered as a wicked and unpardonable misuse of
 corn.
        To condense vapours in distillation.
   This is best accomplished by means of a disk at-
 tached to the tube of the still which  has the figure
 of a lens, flattened as  much  as possible and made
 of copper.  It produces a much better and  more
 rapid effect than the  worms employed for that
 purpose.
            To make British brandy.
   To sixty gallons of clean  rectified spirit put 1
 pound of sweet spirit of nitre,  1 pound of cassia
 buds ground, 1 pound of bitter almond meal, (the
 cassia and almond  meal to be mixed  together be-
 fore they are put  to the spirits), 2 ounces of sliced
 orris  root, ami about 30 or 40 prune stones pound-
 ed; agitate the  whole well together, two or  three
 times a day, for three days or more:  let them set-
 tle, then pour  in 1 gallon of the best wine  vine-
 gar; and add to every 4 gallons 1 gallon of foreign
 brandy.
          To imitate  Cogniac brandy.
   English spirits,  with  proper management, are
 convertible  ir to'  brandy,  hardly distinguishable
 from  foreign, provided the operation is neatly per-
 formed.  The best, and indeed the only method of
 imitating the French brandies to perfection, is by an
 essential oil of wine, this being the very ingredient
 which gives the French brandies their flavour.  It
 must  however  be remembered,  that, in order to
 use even this ingredient to advantage,  a pure taste-
 less spirit must first be produced.
   To prepare the oil of wine, dissolve some cakes
 of dry wine-lees in six or eight times their weight of
 water, distil the liquor by a slow fire, and separate
 the oil by a separator)' glass, reserving for the ni-
 cest uses that which comes over the first, the suc-
 ceeding oil being  coarser and more resinous.   This
 oil of wine should be dissolved  in alcohol, other-
 wise it will soon grow rancid.
   To imitate Cogniac brandy, it will  be necessary
 to distil the essential oil from Cogniac lees, and
 the same for any other kind of brandy.  The proof,
 it  may be easily  accomplished,  by using a  spirit
 rectified above  proof, which, intimately combined
 with the esential oil, may be reduced to a proper
 standard by distilled water.   The softness may, in
a great measure,  be obtained by distilling and rec-
tifying the spirit  over  a gentle  fire;  aud, what is 
142                          UNIVERSAL
•1CE1PT BOOK.

 ponica powdered fine; let it infuse till the tinctur*
 is wholly impregnated.
              To make Jamaica rum.
   This is  obtained from the refuse of the raw su
 gar manufactories, by taking equal quantities of
 the skimmings of the sugar pans, of lees or returns
 as they are commonly called, and of water; and to
 100 gallons of this wash are added ten gallons of
 molasses.   This affords from 10 to 17 gallons of
 proof rum, and twice as much low wines;  it is
 sometimes rectified to a  strength approaching to
 spirit of Avine, and is then called double distilled
 rum.
            To imitate Jamaica rum.
   To imitate  Jamaica rum, it is necessary to  pro-
 cure  some of  the tops, or other parts of the sugar
 canes, and to  put them in a still, in the proportion
 of a pound weight to two gallons of pure flavourless
 spirit, and one gallon of pure water.  The distil-
 lation may be carried on by a brisk heat, provided
 there is a quantity of common salt, (in the propor-
 tion of an ounce  to each gallon of liquid  in  the
 still), to prevent the mucilaginous matter from ari-
 sing  with the  spirit.   The product when rectified
 and coloured  by burnt sugar, will possess every
 character of excellent rum.
           To obtain rum from molasses.
   Mix two or three gallons of water with one  gal-
 lon of molasses, and to  every 200 gallons of  this
 mixture add  a gallon of yeast.   Once or twice a
 day the head  as it rises is stirred in, and  in three
 or four days,  2 gallrns more of water is added to
 each  gallon of  nv.lasses  originally used, and  the
 same quantity of yeast as at first.  Four, five, or
 six days after  this, a portion of yeast is  added as
 before, and about an ounce of jalap root powdered,
 (or in winter one ounce and a half), on which the
 fermentation proceeds with great violence, and in
 three or four  days, the wash is fit for the still: one
 hundred gallons of this wash is computed to yield
 twenty-two gallons of spirit from one  to  ten over
 proof.
          To prepare gin as in Holland.
  The grist is composed of  ten quarters of malt,
 ground considerably finer tiian malt distillers' bar-
 ley grist, and  three quarters of rye-meal; or, more
 frequently, of ten quarters of rye and  three quar-
 ters  of  malt-meal.   The ten quarters are  first
 mashed, with  the least quantity of cold water  it is
 possible to blend  it with, and when uniformly in-
 corporated, as  much boiling water is  added as
 forms it into a thin batter: it is then put into  one,
 two,  or more  casks, or gylt tuns, with a much less
 quantity of yeast than  is usually employed by our
 distillers.   Generally, on the third day, the Dutch
 distillers add  the malt or rye-meal, prepared in a
 similar manner, but not before it comes to the tem-
 perature of the fermenting wash; at the same time
 adding as much yeast as at first.
   The principal secret is the management  of the
 mashing part  of the business, in first thoroughly
 mixing the malt with the cold water, and in  subse-
 quently adding the due proportion of boiling water,
 that  it may still remain sufficiently diluted aftei
 the addition of the fine meal; also in well rousing
 all together in the back, that the wash may be di-
 lute enough for distilling, without endangering its
 burning to the bottom.
          Rectification into Hollands gin.
   To every 20 gallons of  spirit of the second ex-
 traction, about the strength of proof, take of juniper
 berries, 3  lbs. oil of juniper, 2 oz.  and distil  with
 a slow fire, until the feints  begin to rise,  then
 change the receiving can; this  produces the  best
 Rotterdam gin.
   An inferior kind  is made with a still  less  pro-
  wanting, when the spirit is first made, will be sup-
  plied by time.   Treacle or burnt sugar gives the
  spirit afine colour, nearly resembling that of French
  brandy; but as its colour is deep, a large  quantity
  must be used: and the bubble proofis greatly height-
 ened by the tenacity imparted to the liquor by the
 treacle, while the spirit acquires from the  mixture
 a luscious taste.   A much smaller quantity  of burnt
 sugar than of treacle will however be sufficient for
 colouring the same quantity of spirits, and it ac-
 quires an agreeable bitterness.  The burnt  sugar
 is prepared by dissolving a proper quantity  of sugar
 in a little water,  and scorching it over the fire till
 it acquires a black colour.
            To procure the oil of wine.
  This oil should be distilled from the thick lees
 of French wine", because of the flavour, and when
 procured  must be kept ready for use.  It  must be
 mixed with the purest spirit of wine, such  as alco-
 hol; by which means it may be preserved a  long
 time.  The Lottie should be shaken before the oil
 is used.
  When the flavour of the brandy is well imitated
 by a proper  portion of the essential oil,  and the
 whole reduced  into one nature, yet other  difficul-
 ties still exist; which are, the colour, the softness,
 and the proof.  The proof may be effected by using
 a spirit above proof, which after being mixed with
 the oil may be let down to any strength with water.
 The softness will be attained by getting  a  spirit
 that has been distilled by a slow fire; and the co-
 lour mayjbe regulated  by the use  of brandy co-
 louring.
          To make brandy from treacle.
  Spirit distilled from  common treacle dissolved
 in water, should be fermented in the same manner
as the wash for common malt spirit.  If fresh wine-
lees abounding in tartar, are well fermented  with
molasses,  the spirit will acquire a greater vinosity
and briskness, and approach the nature of foreign
 brandy.   If the molasses spirit,  brought to the
common proof strength, is found not to have suffi-
cient vinosity, it will be proper to add some sweet
 spirits of nitre; and if the spirit has been properly
 distilled by a gentle heat, it may,  by this addition
only,  be  made  to  pass with  ordinary  judges  as
French brandy.   Great quantities of this spirit are
used  in  adulterating foreign  brandy, rum, and j
arrack.  Much of it is also used alone, in making
cherry brandy and  other cordials by infusion;  in
 all which many prefer it to foreign brandies.   Mo-
 lasses, like all other spirits, is enti cly colourless
Avhen first extracted; but distillers give it, as nearly
 as possible, the colour of foreign spirits.
         To make brandy from potatoes.
  Potatoes by distillation afford brandy of the best
 quality, not to be distinguished from that obtained
from wine.  One thousand lbs. pressed, fermented,
 and distilled daily, affords from 60 to 70 quarts of
 good  brandy. The residue  of the potatoe,  after
 the spirit  is extracted, is used as food for cattle.
           To improve British brandy.
  Take thirty gallons of fine English brandy, three
 ounces  of tincture  Japonica, and nine ounces  of
 spirit of nitre dulcis.  Incorporate these with some
 of the spirit, and then put it into the rest of the li-
 quor, and stir  it well .bout.   This  will  make
 thirty gallons of brap'',, and if it be a good clean
 spirit, it will much resemble French brandy.
          To prepare tincture Japonica.
  Take of the  best English saffron, and  dissolve
 one ounce; mace bruised, one ounce; infuse them
 into a pint of brandy till the whole tincture of the
 saffron  is extracted, which will  be in seven  or
 ei"ht days; then strain it through a linen cloth, and
 to the strained tincture add two ounces of tartar J a- 
DISTILLATION.
143
 portion ot berries, sweet fennel  seed, and Stras-
 btirg turpentine, without a drop of oil of juniper;
 and a belter sort, but inferior to the Rotterdam, is
 made *u Weesoppe.  The distiller's wash atSchee-
 dam and Rotterdam, is lighter than at Weesoppe.
 Strasburg turpentine is of a yellowish-brown co-
 lour, a very fragrant agreeable smell, yet the least
 acrid of the turpentine.  The juniper  berries are
 so cheap in Holland, that they must have other rea-
 sons than mere cheapness for being so  much more
 sparing of their consumption than our distillers.
              To make malt sjririt.
  Mix 60 quarters o* oarley grist, ground low, and
 20 quarters  of coarse ground pale  roatt, with 250
 barrels of water,  at about 170 degrees Fahrenheit.
 Take out 30 barrels of the wort, and add to this 10
 store of fresh porter yeast, and when the remain-
 ing wort is  cooled down to 55 degrees, add  10
 quarters more malt, previously mixed with 30 bar-
 rels of warm water; stir the whole well together,
 and put it to ferment along with the reserved yeast-
 ed wort: this wash will be found  to weigh, by the
 saccharometer, from 28 to 32 lbs.  per barrel, more
 than water.   In the course  of 12 or 14 days, the
 veast head will fall quite flat, and the wash will
 have a vinous  smell and taste, and not weigh mi re
 than from 2 to 4  lbs. per barrel  more than water.
 Some now put 20 lbs. of common salt,  and 30 lbs.
 of flour, and in 3 or 4 days put it into the still, pre-
 viously stirring it well together.  Every 6 gallons
 of this wash will produce  one gallon of  spirit, at
 from 1 to 10 over  proof; or 18 gallons of spirit from
 each quarter of grain.
               English geneva.
  The best  English geneva is made as follows:
 Take of juniper-berries, 3 lbs. proof spirit, 10 gal-
 lons, water,  4 do.   Draw oft" by a gentle fire, till
 the feints begin ,to rise, and  make up the goods to
 the required strength with clear water.
          To  distil spirits from carrots.
  Take one ton and eight stone of carrots, which,
 after being exposed a few days to dry,  will weigh
 about 160 stone.  The Avhol.; being cut, put  one-
 third of the quantity into a copper, with twenty-
 four gallons  of water, and after covering them up
 close, reduce  the whole  into a  pulp.  The  other
 two-thirds are to  be treated in the  same manner,
 and as the pulp is taken from the copper, it is car-
 ried to the press,  where the juice is extracted with
 great facility.   The liquor obtained will amount to
 200 gallons, and will be of a rich sweet taste, re-
 sembling wort.  It is then put into the copperwith
 one pound of hops, and suffered to  boil about five
 hours, when it is  put into the cooler, to remain till
 the  heat comes down to  66 degrees.   From the
 cooler it  is discharged into the vat,  where six
 quarts of yeast are put to it, in the usual manner.
 Let it work  forty-eight hours, or till 58 deg., when
 the yeast begins to fall.  Then heat twelve gallons
 of unfermented juice, and put it to the  liquor, and
 the heat will be raised to 66 deg.   Work afresh for
 twenty-four  hours longer, the liquor gradually low-
 ering, as before, from 66 to  58°.   Tun the whole
 into half-hogsheads, to work from the bung. After
 standing three days in the casks, fifty gallons  may
 be drawn off, which is rectified the next day with-
 out any additional substance.  Twelve gallons of
 spirit will be obtained.
               To make crrack.
  Arrack is  no other than a spirit produced by dis-
 tillation from a vegetable juice called toddy, which
 flows out of the cocoa-nut tree.  The operator pro-
 vides himself with a parcel of earthen pots, climbs
 up the trunk ofa cocoa-tree; and when he comes to
the  boughs,  he cuts off one  of the small knots  or
buttons) and applies the mouth of a bottle to the
wound, fastening  it to  the  bough with a bandage;
 in the same  manner he  cuts off others, and  pro-
 ceeds till the whole number is employed: this done
 he leaves them until the next mo..iing, when he
 takes off the. bottles, which are  mostly filled, and
 empties the juice into the  proper" receptacle.
 When a sufficient quantity is produced, the whole,
 put  together, is left to ferment.  When  the fer-
 mentation is over, and the liquor is a little tart, it
 is put into the still, and fire being made,  the still
 is suffered to work as long as that which comes off
 has  any considerable  taste  of spirit.   The liquor
 thus procured is the low wine of arrack; and is dis-
 tilled again to  separate some  of its  watery parts,
 and  rectify it to that very weak kind of proof-spi-
 rit in which state we find it
  Tungusian arrack is a spirituous liquor made by
 the  Tartars  of Tungusia, of mare's milk, left to
 sour, and afterwards distilled  twice  or thrice be-
 tween two earthen pots closely stopped,  whence
 the liquor runs through a small wooden pipe.
                 To fine spirits.
  Mix a small quantity of wheat flour in water in
 if for making paste, and pour the same  into the
 vessel.   The whole is then to be well roused, and
 in a short time the contents will  become bright.
         To extract alcohol from potatoes.
  Take  100  lbs.  of potatoes well washed, dress
 them by steam, and let them be bruised to powder
 with a roller, &c.  In the mean time take 4 lbs. of
 ground malt, steep it in lukewarm water, and then
 pour into the fermenting back, and pour on  it
 twelve quarts of boiling water; this  water is stirred
 about, and the bruised potatoes thrown in, and well
 stirred about with wooden rakes, till  every part of
 the potatoes is well saturated with the liquor.
  Immediately, six or eight ounces of yeast is to be
 mixed with twenty-eight gallons  of water ofa pro-
 per warmth to make the whole mass of the tempe-
 rature of from  59 to 66 degrees; there is to be
 added half a pint to a pint of good brandy.
  The fermenting back must be placed in  a room,
 to be kept by means of a stove at a temperature
 from 66 to 72 degrees.   The mixture must be left
 to remain at rest.
  The back must be large enough to suffer the mass
 to rise seven  or eight inches Avithout  running over
 If, notwithstanding this precaution,  it does so, a
 little must be taken out, and returned when it falls
 a little;  the  back is  then covered  again,  and the
 fermentation is suffered to finish  without touching
 it—which takes place generally in five or six days
 This is known by its being  perceived that  the "li-
 quor is quite clear, and the potatoes  fallen to the
 bottom  of the back.   The  fluid is  decanted, and
 the potatoes pressed dry.
  The distillation is by vapour, with a wooden or
 copper still on the plan of Count Rumford.  The
 product of the first distillation is low wines.
  When  the fermentation  has  been favourable,
 from every 100 lbs. of potatoes, six quarts  and up-
 wards of good brandy, of 20 degrees of the areo-
 meter, are obtained; which, put into new casks,
 and afterwards browned with burnt sugar, like the
 French brandies, is not to be distinguished from
 them.
  One thousand pounds of potatoes at twice, gives
 sixty to seventy quarts of good brandy.  TheVesi-
 due of the distillation is used as food for stock.
      To extract potash from potatoe tops.
  It  is necessary to cut off the'potatoe tops the mo-
 ment that the flowers begin  to fall, as that is the
 period of their greatest vigour; they must be cut
 off at four or five inches from the ground, with  a
 very sharp knife.   Fresh sprouts spring,  which
 will  not only  answer all the purposes of conduct-
 ing the roots to maturity, but tend to an increase of
their volume, as they,  (the'sprouts)  demand less 
144
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
nourishment than the old top.   The tops may be
suffered to remain on the ground where  cut; in 8
or 10 days the/ are sufficiently  dry without turn-
ing, and may be carted, either home*or  to a cor-
ner of the field, where a hole is to be dug in the
earth,  about 5 feet square  and 2 feet deep, (the
combustion would be too rapid, and the ashes cool
too quick, and thereby diminish the quantity of al-
kali were  they burnt in the open air).  The ashes
must be kept red-hot as long as possible:  when the
fire is  strong, tops that are only imperfectly dried
may be thrown in, and even green ones  will then
burn well  enough.
  The ashes extracted from the hole must be put
in a vessel, and boiling water be poured upon  it,
as then the water must be evaporated:  for these
two operations potato tops  may be used alone as
firing  in  the furnace, and  the ashes  collected.
There remains, after the evaporation, a dry saline
reddish substance, known in commerce under the
name of salin; the more the ashes are boiled, the
greyer and more valuable the salin becomes.
  The salin must then be  calcined in a very hot
oven, until the whole  mass presents an uniform
reddish brown.   In cooling it remains dry, and in
fragments—blueish within,  and  white on the sur-
face; in which state it takes the name of potass.
  The ashe\ exhausted of their alkaline principle,
afford  excellent manuir for land intended to  be
planted with potatoes.
        To make brandy from beet root.
  For the  preparation of brandy, the water used in
the first boiling of the roofs, is boiled again, and
poured out on the residuum from the first expres-
sion of the pounded roots; this must stand for a
day or two, after which it is expressed, and the re-
maining dry pulp serves as a good food for cattle.
The jiiice obtaineil in this  way is mixed with  the
waste parts of the syrup and the mucilage which
remains after the expression of the saccharine crys-
tals, and all boiled together till  half of it is evapo-
rated.  The liquor is then poured into a coop ex-
posed to a temperature of 45 deg. Fahrenheit, and
cooled to  65 deg.   Having  added a proportionate
quantity of yeast,  it is left to ferment,  and in
3 or 4 days after the distillation may be undertaken.
         To obtain sugar from  beet root.
  The beet roots best calculated for the extraction
of sugar, are those which have a soft flesh, whitish
towards the edges and  not growing above ground.
Aftei ieing cleaned, they are boiled, cut into pieces
and  pounded in  a wooden trough with wooden
stampers,  and afterwards pressed.  The  juice thus
obtained is immediately put into a polished copper
kettle  and simmered, during which time the scum
must continually be taken  off. To one hundred
quarts of this juice add two ounces or less of slack-
ened lime, diluted so ac to have the appearance of
milk, and  continue the boiling till the juice is thick-
ened to the half of it.  Having strained it through
a woollen  cloth, thicken it to the consistency of a
syrup, which afterwards is put into glass, stone, or
wooden vessels.   These being placed near a  mo-
derate fire, saccharine crystals appear, which being
freed by expression from ti.j mucilaginous juice, a
very good raw su^ar is obtained.
              To make proof spirit.
   The London College mentions no proportions,
but requires the specific gravity of .930; the Dub-
lin advises the mixture ot four measures of spirit
with three of water, and the Edinburgh College or-
ders equal measures of their alcohol and  water, the
specific gravity of which  mixture they quote as
.935.  The chemists in London are in the habit of
making their proof spirit, by taking half spirit of
wine and  half water, whenever  it is required, as
4hey seldom or never keep it in that state.
        To make tincture of salt of tartar.
  Melt 6 oz. of salt of tartar in a crucible; pcwder
it while hot, and immediately pour upon the pow-
der a quart of spirit of wine, and digest it for seve-
ral days.
             Tincture of antimony.
  Take of crude antimony, 1 oz.; salt of tartar, and
saltpetre, each 2 oz.   Mix and throw them into a
red hot crucible; when melted, pour them out into
an iron mortar, powder the mass, while hot, and
before it growscold put it into a bottle with a suffi-
cient quantity of spirit of wine.
  This and the preceding  are to be considered  as
alcohol made without distillation, but they receive
an alkaline taint, which renders them impure.
  All these spirits are stimulants, but more em-
ployed as luxuries than medicines
                 LIQUEURS.

          To make ratafia d'ar.gelique.
  Take of angelica  seeds, 1  drachm: stalks of an-
gelica, bitter almonds, blanched, each 4oz.; proof
spirit, 12 pints; white sugar, 2 lbs.   Digest, strain,
anfl filter.
            Amsette de Bourdeaux.
  Take of sugar, 9  oz.; oil of  aniseed, 6  drops.
Rub them together, and add by degrees, spirit of
wine, 2 pints;  water, 4 pints.  Filter.
     1   To make real creme dcs barbades.
  Take 2 dozen middling sized lemons; 6 large
citrons; loaf sugar, 28 lbs.; fresh balm leaves, \ lb.;
spirit of wine,  2J gallons; water 3^ ditto. This will
produce about 7 gallons,  full measure.  Cut the
lemons  and citrons in thin slices, and put tbern into
a cask;  pour upon them  the spirit of wine, bung
down close, and let it stand ten days or a fortnight,
then break the sugar, and  boil it for half an hour
in the three gallons and a half of water,  skimming
it frequently; then chop the  balm-leaves, put them
into a large pan, and pour upon them the boiling
liquor, and let it stand till quite cold; then strain
it through a' lawn  sieve, and put it to the spirits,
&c. in the cask; bung down close, and in a  fort-
night draw it off; strain it through a jelly bag, and
let it remain to fine; then bottle it.
                Eau de barbades.
  Take of fresh orange peel, 1 oz.; fresh lemon-
peel, 4  oz.; cloves,  £ drachm;  coriander, 1 do.;
proof spirit, 4 pints.  Distil in a bath heat and add
white sugar in powder.
            To make ratafia de cafe.
  Take of roated coffee, ground, I lb.; proof spi-
rit, 1 gallon; sugar, 20 oz.   Digest for a week.
               Ratafia de cassis.
  Take of ripe black currants, 6  lbs.; cloves, ^
drachm; cinnamon, 1 ditto;  proof  spirit, 18 pints;
sugar, 3^ lbs.  Digest for a  fortnight.
              Ratafia des cerises.
  Take of morello cherries, Avith  their kernels,
bruised, 8 lbs; proof spirit,  8 pints.  Digest  for a
month,  strain with expression, and then add 1^ lbs.
of sugar.
              Ratafia de chocolat.
  Take of Caracca cocoa nuts, roasted, 1 lb.; West
India ditto,  roasted £ lb.; proof spirit,  1  gallon.
Digest for a fortnight, strain, and then add sugar,
1£ lbs.; tincture ot vanilla, 30 drops.
                  Eau divine.
  Take of spirit of wine, 1 gallon; essence of le-
mons,  and essence  of bergamot, each 1 drachm:
Distil in a bath heat: add sugar 4 lbs. dissolved in
2 gallons of pure w iter; and, lastly,  orange ilower
water, 5 oz.
                Elephant's  milk.
  Take of benjamin, 2 oz.;  spirit of wine,  1  pint; 
DISTILLATION.                                   145
boiling water, 2$ pints.  When cold,  strain;  and
add sugar, 1| lbs.
             Ratafia de grenoble.
  Take of small wild black cherries, with their
kernels,bruised, 12  lbs.; proof spirit, 6 gallons.
Digest for a month, strain, and then add 12 lbs. of
sugar. A little  citron peel may also be added at
pleasure.
            Marasquin de groseilles.
  Take of gooseberries, quite ripe, 102 lbs. black
cherry leaves, 12 lbs.   Bruise and ferment; distil
and rectify the spirit.  To each pint of this spirit
add as much distilled water, and sugar, 1 lb.
                Iluile de Venus.
  Take of flowers of the wild carrot, picked, 6 oz.
-—spirit of wine, 10 pints.  Distil  in a bath heat.
To the spirit add as much syrup  of capillaire; it
may be coloured with cochineal.
                  Liquodilla.
  Take the thin peel of six oranges and 6 lemons,
steep them in  a gallon  of brandy or rum, close
stopped,  for two or three days;  then take 6 quart)
of water, and 3 lbs. of loaf sugar clarified with the
whites ot three eggs.   Let it boil a quarter of an
hour, then strain it through a fine  sieve, and let it
stand till cold; strain the brandy  from the peels,
and add the juice of 5 oranges and 7 lemons to each
gallon.   Keep it close stopped  up  six weeks, then
bottle it.
       Fresh marasquin, a new liqueur.
  Advantage has  not  hitherto been taken of the
fruit of the St Lueian tree, [primus mahaleb, Lin.)
This small black fruit is of a very disagreeable
taste, but it may produce an excellent liqueur.  M.
Cadet de  Vaux, recognizing in this little cherry
an aromatic savour, thought it would serve to make
a kind of kirschwasser.   In effect, it ferments and
furnishes by distillation a Prussic  alcolu 1; but by
putting it first to infuse in brandy  for  suine time,
there is  obtained, by distillation in a bath heat, a
spirit of a very agreeable aromatic, and  which, pro-
perly sweetened, forms a liqueur comparable to the
best marasquin of Italy.   It is necessary to bri.ise
the fruit and the nuts before infusing them in bran-
dy.   The  spirit must also  be  brought back to 21
degrees before sweetening it.   Then add nearly 12
oz. of sugar to every quart of liqueur.—Journal de
Pharmacie, 1821.
            Ratafia de brou de noix.
  Take of young walnuts, whose shells are not yet
hardened, iu number, 60,—brandy, 4 pints,—sugar,
12 oz.—mace, cinnamon,  and cloves, each 15  gr.
Digest for 2 or 3 months,  press out the liquor, fil-
ter,  and keep it for 2 or 3 years.
               Ratafia de noyeau.
  Take  of peach or apricot  kernels, with their
shells bruised, in number, 120, proof spirit, 4 pints,
sugar, 10 oz.   Some reduce the spirit of wine to
proof with the juice of apricots or peaches, to make
this liqueur.
         Creme de noyeau de Martinique.
  Take 20  lbs.  of loaf sugar,—3 gallons of spirit
of wine,—3 pints  of orange flower water,—1£ lb.
of hitler  almonds—2 drachms of essence of lemon,
and  4J gallons of water.  The produce will exceed
8 gallons.
   Put 2  lbs. of the loaf sugar  into a  jug or  can,
pour upon it the essence of lemon, and 1 quart of
the spirit of wine; stir it till the sugar is dissolved,
and  the essence completely incorporated.   Bruise
the almonds, and put them into a 4 gallon stone
bottle or cask, add the remainder of the spirit of
wine, and the mixture from the jug or can: let it
stand a week or ten days, shaking it  frequently.
Then add the remainder of the sugar, and boil it
in the 4^ gallons of water, for three quarters of an
hour, taking oft'the scum as it rises.  When cold,
 put it in a cask; add the spirit, almonds, &c. from
 the stone bottle; and  lastly, the orange flower wa-
 ter.  Bung it down  close, and let it  stand three
 weeks or a month; then strain it through a jelly
 bag, and when fine bottle it off.  When the pink
 is wanted, add cochineal, in powder, at the rate of
 half a drachm, or two scruples, to a quart.
           Ratafia d'ecorces d'oranges.
   Take  of fresh peel of Seville oranges, 4 oz.—
 proof spirit, 1 gallon,—sugar, 1 lb.  Digest for 6
 hours.
           Ratafia defleurs d'oranges.
   Take  of fresh flowers of orange-tree, 2 lbs.'
 proof spirit, 1 gallon,—sugar, 1$ lbs.   Digest for 6
 hours.
        Creme d'orange of superior flavour.
   Take  3 dozen middling  sized  oranges, orange
 flower water, 2 quarts,  loaf sugar, 18 lbs. spirit of
 wine, 2 gallons, tincture of saffron,  1£ oz.  water,
 4^ gallons.  This will produce 7^ gallons.
   Cut the oranges in slices, put them  into a cask,
 add the spirit and orange flower water, let it stand
 a fortniglit, then boil the sugar in  the water for
 half an hour, pour it  out, and let it stand till cold,
 then add it to the mixture in the cask, and put in
 the tincture of saffron.  Let it  remain a fortnight
 longer; then strain, and proceed as directed in the
 receipt for cremes de  Barbades, and a very fine
 cordial will be produced.
               Fine brandy shrub.
   Take  8 oz. of citric acid,—1 gallon  of porter,—
 3 gallons of raisin wine,—2 quarts of orange flower
 water,—7 gallons of good brandy,—5  ditto of water.
 This will produce 16 gallons.   First,  dissolve the
 citric acid in the water, then add to it  the brandy;
 next, mix the raisin wine, porter, and orange flower
 water together;  and lastly, mix the whole: and in
 a week or ten days, it will be ready for  drinking,
 and of a very mellow flavour.
                   Rum shrub.
   Leave out the brandy and porter, and add 1 gal-
 lon more raisin  wine, 6 lbs. of honey, and 10 gal-
 lons of good flavoured rum.
                Currant shrub.
   Take  white currants, when quite ripe, pick them
 off the stalks, and bruise them; strain out the juice
 through a cloth, and  to two quarts of the juice put
 2 lbs. of loaf sugar; when it is  dissolved add to it a
 gallon of rum, then strain it through a flannel bag
j that will keep in the jelly, and  it will run off clear;
 then  bottle it for use.
                   Usquebaugh.
   Usquebaugh is a strong compound liquor, chiefly
 taken by way of dram; it  is made in the highest
 perfection at Drogheda in Ireland.  The following
 are the ingredients, and the proportions in which
 they  are to be used.
   Take  of best  brandy, 1 gallon,—raisins, stoned,
 1 lb.—cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg,' and  cardamoms,
 each  1 oz. crushed in a mortar,—saffron,  halt an
 ounce,—rind of I Seville orange, and brown sugar
 candy, 1  lb.   Shake  these well eveiy day, for at
 least 14 days, and it will, at the expiration of that
 time, be ready to be fined for use.
   Another method.— Take of nutmegs, cloves, and
 cinnamon, each 2 ounces; of the  seeds of anise, cara-
 way, and coriander, each 4 ounces; liquorice root,
 sliced, half a pound;  bruise the seeds and spices,
 and put them together with the liquorice, into the
 s'ill, with 11 gallons of proof spirit, and 2 gallons
 of water; distil with a pretty brisk fire.   As soon
 as the still begins to work, fasten to the nozel of
 the worm 2 ounces of English saffron,  tied up in a
 cloth, that the liquor may run  through it, and ex-
 tract  all  its tincture.  When the operation is finish-
 ed, sweeten with fine sugar.—This liqueur may be
 much improved by the following additions; Digest 
146                            UNIVERSAL Rl

4 pounds of stoned raisins, 3 pounds of dates, and I
2 pounds of sliced liquorice root, in 2 gallons of
water, for 12 hours.   When the liquor is  strained ,
off, and has df'iosited all sediment, decant it gently
into the vessel containing the usquebaugh.
              Ratafia a la violette.
  Take of Florentine orris root, 2 dr. —archel, 1
oz.—spirit of wine,  4 pints.  Digest,  strain, and
add sugar, 4 lbs.—Liqueurs are  also made by ad-
ding Hungary-water, hone\-water, eau de Cologne,
and several other spirits, to an equal quantity of
simple syrup, or  common capillaire.
      COMPOUND SPIRITS, OR  CORDIALS.

                    General Rules.
      The perfection of this grand branch of distillery
    depends upon the observation of the following ge-
    neral rules,  which are easy to be  observed and
    practised:—1.  The artist must always be careful to
    use  a well cleansed spirit, or one freed  from its
    own essential oil.   For as a compound cordial  is
i    nothing more than  a spirit  impregnated  with the
    essential oil of the  ingredients, it  is  necessary that
    the spirit should have deposited its  own.  2. Let
    the time of previous digestion be  proportioned  to
    the tenacity of the ingredients, or  the ponderosity
    of their oil.  3. Let the strength of the fire be pro-
    portioned to the ponderosity  of the oil intended  to
    be raised with  the spirit.  4. Let a due proportion
    of the finest parts of the essential oil be united with
    the spirit;  the grosser and less fragrant parts of the
    oil not giving the spirit so agreeable  a flavour, and
    at the same time rendering it thick and unsightly.
    This may in  a  great measure be effected by leaving
    out the feints,  and  making up to  proof with fine
    soft  Avater  in their stead.
     A  careful  observation of  these four rules will
    render this extensive part of distillation far  more
    perfect than  it is  at  present.  Nor  will  there be
    any occasion for the use of burnt  alum, white 'of
    eggs, isinglass, etc. to fine down the cordial waters,
    for they  will presently be fine, sweet, and  plea-
    sant.
                To make aniseed cordial.
      Take  of aniseed, bruised, 2 lbs.—proof spirit,
    12^ gallons,—water, 1 gallon.  Draw off 10 gallons
    with  a moderate fire.  This water should  never be
    reduced below proof: because the large quantity of |
    oil with  wMch it is impregnated,  will render the
    goods milky and foul, when  brought down below
    proof.  But if there is a necessity for  doing this,
    their transparency may be restored by filtration.
                   Cinnamon cordial.
      Take 2 pennyweights of oil of cassia lignea, dis-
    solved with sugar and spirit of wine; 1$ gallons, at
    1 in 6,— cardamom seeds, husked,  1 ounce,—or-
    ange and lemon peel  dried, of each, 1 oz.  Fine
    with J a pint of alum water; sweeten with loaf su-
    gar, not exceeding 2 lbs. and make up 2 gallons
    measure with the  water in which  the sugar is dis-
    solved.   Colour with burnt sugar.
               Sjrong cinnamon cordial.
      Take  8  pounds of fine cinnamon, bruised,—17
    gallons of clear rectified spirit, and 2  gallons  of
    water.   Put them into the  still, and digest them
    twenty-four hours with a gentle heat; after which,
    draw off sixteen gallons by a pretty  strong heat.
                   Caraway cordial.
      For 20 gallons.   Take 1$ ounces  of oil of cara-
    way, 2l» drops  of cassia-liguea oil, 5 drops of es-
    sence of orange-peel,  5 drops of tne essence of le-
    mon, 13 gallons of spirits, one in five, and 8 lbs.  of
    loaf sugar.  Make it up and fine it down.
                    Cedrat cordial.
      The cedrat is a species of citron,  and very high-
1CEIPT BOOK.

 ly  esteemed in Italy, where it  grows  naturally.
 The fruit is difficult to be procured  in  this coun-
 try; but, as tne essential oil is often imported from
 Italy, it maybe made with it as follows:   Take of
 ihe finest loaf-sugar,  powdered, }  lb.  Put it into
 a glass mortar, with 120 drops of the essence of ce-
 drat; rub them together with  a glass pestle,  and
 put them into  a glass alembic, with a gallon of fine
 proof spirit, and a quart of water.   Place the alem-
 bic in a bath heat, and draw oft'one  gallon, or till
 the feints begin to rise ; then dulcify with fine su-
 gar.  This is  considered the  finest cordial  yet
 known; it will  therefore be necessary to be  parti-
 cularly careful that the spirit  is  perfectly clean,
 and, as much as possible, free  from any flavour of
 its own.
                  Citron cordial.
   Take of dry yellow rinds of  citrons,  3 lbs.
 orange-peel, 2  lbs. nutmegs, bruised, $ lb. proof
 spirit, 10$ gallons, water, 1 gallon.   Digest with a
 gentle heat; then draw oft" 10 gallons in a bath heat;
 and dulcify with fine sugar.
                  Clove cordial.
   Take of cloves, bruised, 4 lbs. pimento, or  all-
 spice,  £ lb. proof spirit, 16 gallons. Digest  the
 mixture 12 hours  in a gentle heat, and  then draw
 off 15 gallons with a pretty brisk fire. The  water
 may be coloured  red, either by a  strong tincture
 of  cochineal, alkanet, or corn poppy-flowe'-s.  It
 may be dulcified at pleasure with  double refined
 sugar.
                Coriander cordial.
   For 3 gallons.  Take 7 quarts of spirits,  2 lbs.
 of coriander seed, 1 oz.  of caraway seed, 6  drops
 of the oil of orange, and 2 lbs  of sugar.  Fill up
 with water.  The coriander seed must be bruised
 and steeped in  the spirits for ten  or twelve  days,
 and well stirred two or three times  a day.  Fine it
 the same as gin.
                Eau de bigarade.
  Take the outer  or yellow  part of the peels of 14
 bigarades (a kind of orange), $ oz. of nutmegs, £
 oz. of  mace, 1 gallon of fine  proof spirit, and 2
 quarts of water.  Digest all these together two
 days in a close vessel; after which, draw off a gal-
 lon with a gentle fire, and dulcify with fine sugar.
                  Gold cordial.
   Take of the  roots of angelica, sliced, 4 lbs. rai-
 sins, stoned,  2 lbs. coriander seeds, $ lb. cara-
 way seeds  and cinnamon, each $  lb. cloves, 2 oz.
 figs and liquorice root, slioed, each, 1  lb.  proof
 spirit,  11  gallon3, water 2  gallons.  Digest two
 days; and draw off by a gentle  heat, till  the feints
 begin to rise; hanging in a piece of linen, fastened
 to the mouth of the worm, an ounce of English saf-
 fron.  Then dissolve 8 lbs. of sugar in three quarts
 of rose-water,  and add to it the distilled liquor.
   The above cordial derives its name from a quan-
 tity of leaf gold being formerly added to  it; but this
 is now generally disused
                Lavage cordial
   For 20 gallons.   Take of the fresh roots of lov-
 age, valerian,  celery, and sweet fennel,  each 4oz.
 essential oil of caraway and savin, each 1 ounce,
 spirit of wipe,  1 pint, proof spirit,  12 gallons, loaf-
 sugar, 12 lbs.   Steep the roots and seeds in the
 spirits  for  14  days; then dissolve  the oils in  the
 spirit of wine,  anil add them to the undulcified cor-
 dial drawn  off from the  other ingredients; dissolve
 the sugar in the water for making  up, and fine, if
 necessary, with alum.
                 Lemon cordial.
   Take of dried lemon-peel, 4 lhs. proof  spirit,
 10$ gallons, water, 1 gallon.  Draw off  ten gallons
 by a gentle fire, and dulcify  with fine sugar.
                    Nectar,
   For 20 gallons.  Take 15 gallons  of red ratafia, 
DISTILLATION.
147
J oz. of cassia-oil, and an equal quantity of the oil
of caraway seeds.  Dissolve in half a pint of spirit
of wine, and make up with orange wine, so as to
fill up the cask.   Sweeten, if wanted, by adding a
small lump of sugar in the glass.
                   Noyeau.
  Take 1$ gallons of  French brandy, 1 in 5, 6 oz.
of the best French prunes, 2 oz. of celery, 3 oz. of
the kernels of  apricots, nectarines, and  peaches,
and 1 oz. of bitter almonds, all gently bruised, es-
sence of orange-peel,  and  essence of lemon-peel,
of eiich 2 penny-weights, \ a pound of loaf-sugar.
Let the whole stand ten days or a fortnight; then
draw off, and add to the clear noyeau as much  rose
water as will make it up to two gallons.
                Orange cordial.
  Take of the yellow part  of fresh  orange-peel, 5
lbs.  proof spirit,  10$ gallons, water, 2 gallons.
Draw off ten gallons with a gentle fire.
              Peppermint cordial.
  For  twenty gallons.  Take 13 gallons  of recti-
fied spirits, one in five under hydrometer proof, 12
lbs. of loaf sugar,  1 pint of spirit of wine, that will
fire gunpowder,  15 pennyweights troy of oil of
peppermint, water, as much as will fill up the cask,
which  should be set up on end, after the whole has
been well roused, and a cock for drawing off plac-
ed in it.
                    Ratafia.
  This is a liquor prepared from  different kinds
of fruits, and is of different colours according to
the fruits made use of.  These fruits should be ga-
thered when in their greatest perfection, and the
largest and most beautiful of them chosen  for the
purpose.  The following is the method of making
red ratafia, fine and soft:  Take of the black-heart
cherries, 24 lbs. black cherries, 4 lbs. raspberries
and strawberries, each, 3 lbs.   Pick the fruit from
their stalks, and bruise them, in Avhich state let
them continue 12  hours; then  press  out the juice;
and to every pint of it, add £ lb. of sugar.  When
the sugar is dissolved, run the whole through the
filtering bag and  add to it three quarts  of proof
spirit.   Then take of cinnamon, 4 oz. mace, 1 oz.
and cloves, 2 drachms.   Bruise these spices, put
them into an alembic with a gallon  of proof spirit
and two quarts of water, and draw off a gallon with
a brisk fire.  Add as much of this  spicy spirit to
the ralafia as will render  it agreeable: about one-
fourth is the usual proportion.
              Dry or sharp ratafia.
  Take of cherries and gooseberries, each 30 lbs.
mulberries, 7 lbs. raspberries,  10  lbs.  Pick all
these  fruits  clean from their  stalks,  8cc. bruise
them,  and let them stand twelve hours; but do not
suffer  them to ferment.  Press out  the juice,  and
to every pint add three ounces of  sugar.  When
the sugar is dissolved, run it through the  filtering
bag, and to eveiy five pints of liquor add four pints
of proof spirit; together with the same proportion
of spirit drawn from spices.
                 Common ratafia.
  Take of nutmegs,  8 oz. bitter almonds, 10 lbs.
Lisbon sugar, 8 lbs.  ambergris, 10 grains.  Infuse
these ingredients three days in 10 gallons of proof
spirit, and filter it through a  flannel bag for use.
The nutmegs and bitter almonds must be bruised,
and the ambergris rubbed with the Lisbon sugar in
a marble mortar, before they are  infused iu the
spirit.
                 Cherry brandy.
   One of the best and most common ways of mak-
ing cherry brandy, is to put the cherries(beiug first
clean picked from the stalks) into  a vessel, till it
be about half full; then fill up with rectified mo-
lasses  brandy, which is generally used for this com-
pound, and when they have been infused sixteen or
eighteen days, draw off the  liquor by degrees, as
wanted: when drawn off fill the vessel  a second
time nearly to the top, let it stand about a month,
and then draw it off as there is occasion.   The
same cherries may be used a third time by cover-
ing them with over-proof brandy, and letting it in-
fuse  for six or seven weeks; when drawn off for
use, as much water  must be  added as the brandy
was over-proof,  and the cherries must  be after-
wards  pressed  as long as  any liquor remains in
them, before being cast away.
  When drawn off the second time, the liquor will
be somewhat inferior to the first, when more sugar,
with half an ounce of cinnamon and cloves beaten,
may be added to twenty gallons of it; but there
should only be half the quantity of cinnamon and
cloves in each twenty gallons of  the first infusion.
  Another method.—Take 72 pounds Of cherries,
half red and half black—mash or squeeze them to
pieces with the hands, and add to them three gal-
lons of brandy, letting them  steep for 24 hours—
then put the mashed  cherries and  liquor into a
canvas bag a little at a time, and press it as long as
it will run.   Sweeten it with loaf sugar, and let it
stand a month—then bottle it off, putting a lump
of loaf sugar into every bottle.
  Another.—To every four  quarts of brandy, put
four pounds of red  cherries, two pounds of black,
one quart of raspberries, with a few cloves, a stick
of cinnamon, and a little orange peel; let these
stand a month close stopped; then bottle it off, put-
ting a lump of loaf  sugar into every bottle.
             Black cherry brandy.
  Stone eight pounds of black cherries, and put on
them a gallon of brandy.  Bruise the stones in a
mortar, and then add  them to the brandy.  Cover
them close, and let them stand a month or six
weeks.   Then pour it clear from the sediment, and
bottle it.  Morello cherries,  managed in this man-
ner, make a fine rich cordial.
                Caraway brandy.
  Steep an ounce of caraway seeds, and six ounces
of loaf sugar, in a quart of orandy; let it stand nine
days, and then draw it off.
                Lemon brandy.
  Put five quarts of water to one gallon of brandy,
take two dozen of lemons, two pounds of the best
sugar, and three pints of milk.  Pare the lemons
very thin, and lay the peel  to steep in the brandy
twelve hours.  Squeeze the lemons upon the sugar,
then put the water to it, and mix all the ingredients
together.   Boil the milk, and pour it in boiling.
Let it stand 24 hours and then strain it.
                Orange brandy.
  Put the chips of eighteen Seville oranges in three
quarts of brandy, and let them steep  a fortnight in
a stone-bottle close stopped.  Boil two quarts of
spring-water, with a pound and a half of the finest
sugar, nearly an hour very gently.  Clarify the
water and  sugar with the white of  an  egg,  then
strain it through a jelly-bag,  and boil it nearly half
away.  When it is  cold, strain the brandy into the
syrup.
               Raspberry brandy.
  Take a pint of water and  two quarts of brandy,
and put them into a  pitcher large enough to hold
them and four pints of raspberries.   Put in half a
pound of loaf sugar,  and  let it remain for a wck
close covered.   Then take a piece of flannel, with
a piece of holland over it, and let it run through
by degrees.   It may be racked into other bottles a
week after,  and then it will  be perfectly fine.
  Another method.—Raspberry  brandy  is infused
nearly  after the same manner as  cherry brandy,
and drawn  off  with  about  the  same addition of
brandy to what is drawn off from the first, second,
and third infusion,  and dulcified accordingly, first 
148
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
making it of a bright deep colour; omitting cinna-
mon and cloves in the first, but not in the second
and third infusion.  The second infusion will be
somewhat paler than the first, and must be height-
ened  in colour,  by adding cherry brandy about a
quart, with ten or more gallons of raspberry brandy;
and the third infusion  will require more cherry
brandy to colour it.  It may be flavoured with the
juice of the elder berry.
                Whiskey cordial.
  Take of cinnamon, ginger, and coriander seed,
each 3 oz. mace, cloves, and cubebs, each, 1$ oz.
Add 11 gallons of proof spirit,  and 2 gallons of
water, and distil; now tie up 5 oz. of  English saf-
fron,  raisins (stoned) 4$ lbs. dates, 3 do. liquorice
root,  2 do.  Let these stand 12 hours in 2 gallons
of water, strain, and add it to the above.  Dulcify
the whole with fine sugar.
      ESSENTIAL AND  OTHER OILS.

   The  oils are obtained by distillation, with a suf-
 ficient  quantity of water to prevent the articles
 from adhering to the still,  and the oil  and water
 acquiring a burnt  taste; they are all stimulant, in
 doses of from 2 to 10 drops  upon sugar.
                  Oil of aniseed.
   One  pound of the seeds will yield 2 drachms.
 It is congealed, except in warm weather; this oil
 is carminative, and poisonous to pigeons, if rubbed-
 on their bills or head.
                  Cajeput  oil.
   This is obtained from the leaves, which are im-
 ported  from  the East  Indies,  generally in large
 copper flasks; it is cooler than that of peppermint,
 but smells of turpentine.   It is used externally in
 rheumatism.
                 Oil of caraway.
   This is obtained from the seeds; it is carmina-
 tive:  2 pounds will yield  more than 1 ounoe,  and
 1 cwt. 83 ounces.
                  Oil of cloves.
   This  is obtained from the spice of that name; it
 is very  heavy, acrimonious, and supposed to con-
 tain some part of the resin of the clove.  One pound
 of cloves will  .. .eld from 1$ to 2$ troy oz..- 7$ pounds
 will yield 1 pound of oil.  It is also expressed from
 the cloves when ripe.   Muller,  by digesting half
 an oz. of cloves in ether, and  then mixing it with
 water, obtained 7 scruples of oil, greenish yellow,
 swimming upon water.  Oil of cloves is imported
 from  the spice islands;  it is stimulant, and added
 to purgative pills to prevent griping; it is  exter-
 nally applied to aching teech.
                  Oil of i assia.
  This is the common oil of cinnamon, and is ob-
 tained from the bark of inferior cinnamon, imported
 under the name of cassia.   One pound will  yield
 from 1 to 1$ drachms.   It is stimulant and stoma-
chic.  Another oil is obtained from cassia buds.
                Oil of'chamomile.
  This  is obtained from the flowers, and is sto-
machic   One pound  will  yield  a drachm; 82
pounds will yield from 13 to 18 drachms.  It is of
a fine blue, even if distilled in  glass vessels.
                Oil of cinnamon.
  This is obtained from the fresh bark which is
imported from  Ceylon.  De  Guignes  says,  the
cinnamon of  Cochin China  is so full of essential
oil, that it may be  pressed out by the fingers.
               Essence of cedrat.
  This is obtained from the flowers of the citron
tree; it is amber-coloured and slightly fragrant; 60
pounds will yield 1 ounce.   It is also obtained from
the yellow part of citron peel; it is colourless, very
thin, and fragrant.  The second oil is obtained by
 the distillation  of the yellow part of citron peel,
 and is greenish; 100 citrons will yield 1 ounce  of
 the white essence, and half an ounce of this.  It is
 likewise obtained from the yellow part of citron
 peel by expression between two glass plates.  Also,
 from the cake  left on  squeezing citron  peel,  by
 distillation with water.   It is thick.
            Common  essence of cedrat.
   This is obtained from the faeces left in the casks
 of citron juice; clear,  fragrant, greenish; 50 pounds
 of fasces will yield, by distillation, S pounds of es-
 sence.
             Foreign oil of lavender.
   This is the true oil of spike, and is  obtained
 from the flowers and seeds of broad-leaved laven-
 der, and more commonly those of French lavender,
 stcechas, with a quick fire.  It  is sweet  scented,
 but the oil of the narrow-leaved lavender, or Eng-
 lish oil, is by  far the  finest.
              Essence of lavender.
   The  oil of  the  flowers of lavender is rendered
 more delicate in  its  odour by age; but to prevent
 its becoming glutinous by keeping, which it is very
 apt to do, draw it over in a water bath, with a small
 quantity of alcohol, which is termed  the  essence,
 and which, after being  kept closely corked for
 about seven years, possesses a peculiarly fine deli-
 cate odour of lavender, entirely free from  empy-
 reuma.
                   Oil of mint.
   Obtained from the  dried plant; 6 pounds of fresh
 leaves will yield 3$ drachms; and 4 lbs. dried will
 yield 1 1-2 ounce.   It  is  stimulant,  carminative,
 and antispasmodic.
                Essence of neroli.
   Obtained from the flowers of the orange tree;  6
 cwt. of flowers will  yield  only 1 ounce  of oil.
 Another essence is obtained from orange peel, and
 is veiy fragrant.   A third essence is obtained from
 unripe oranges,  and is of a gold colour.
                 Oil of nutmegs.
   Obtained from  that spice;  it is liquid, and of a
 pale yellow; a  sebaceous insipid matter swims upon
 the water in the still.
                Oil of peppermint.
   Obtained from the dried plant; 4 lbs. of the fresh
 herb will yield 3 drachms.   In general it requires
 rectification to  render it bright  and fine.   It  is
 stimulant and  carminative.
               Oil of pennyroyal.
   Obtained from the herb when in flower; 3 pounds
 will yield 6 drachms:  emmenagogue.
                  Oil of pimento.
   Obtained from allspice: one ounce will yield 30
 drops.   It is stimulant.
                 Oil  of rhodium.
   Obtained from  the true lignum  rhodium: 80
 pounds will yield 9 drachms, and in very resinous
 old wood  80 pounds  will yield  2 ounces.    It is
 light yellowish, but grows red by keeping.  Ano-
 ther oil  is obtained from the root ot rose  wort,
 rhodiola rosea; it is yellowish, and has the smell
 and taste of that from the true lignum rhodium:  I
pound will yield a drachm.
            77ie tr~ue Riga'balsam.
   Obtained from  the shoots of the  Aphernousli
pine, pinus cembra, previously bruised and macer-
ated for a month  in  water.  It  is pellucid, very
liquid, whitish, and has the smell and taste of oil o'f
 juniper.
                Butter of roses.
   Obtained from  the flowers of  damask roses,
white, solid, separating  slowly from the rose wa-
ter: it has little scent of its own, and is used to di-
lute the  scent of  musk, civet, and ambergris:  1
cwt. of  roses  will yield from  1-2 ounce  to an
ounce. 
DISTILLATION.
149
                     Oil of rosemary.
       Obtained from the flowering tops;  it is  sweet-
     scented: 1 cwt. will yield 8 ounces: 1 pound of dry
     leaves will  yield from 1 to 3 drachms: 70 pounds
     of fresh leaves will yield 5 ounces.
                       Oil ofnie.
       Obtained from the dried plant; it is carminative,
     and antispasmodic: 10 pounds of leaves will yield
     from 2 to 4 drachms;  4 pounds in flower will yield
     f dwichm; and 6l- pounds will yield 2 1-2 ounces;
     72 pounds, with the seeds, will yield 3 ounces.
                     Oil of sassafras.
       Obtained from the sassafras root;  24 pounds
     will yield 9 ounces; 30 pounds will yield 7  ounces
     and one drachm; and six  pounds will yield two
     ounces.
                      Oil of thyme.
       Obtained from the plant; 2 cwt. fresh will yield
     5| ounces; 3 1-2 pounds, dried, will  yield 1-2 a
     drachm.  It is stimulant and  caustic; and used in
     tooth-ache, applied to the tooth.
                     Oil of wormwood.
       Obtained from the  herb; stomachic: 25 pounds
     of green wormwood will yield from 6 to 10 drachms
     of oil;  4 pounds of dry will yield one ounce, and
     18 pounds only 1 1-2 troy ounces.
                       Birch oil.
       Obtained by distilling 20 parts of birch bark, and
     1  of ledum palustre,  crammed in layers into an
     earthen pot, with a handful of tripoli between each
     layer; the mouth of the pot is closed with a perfo-
     rated oak plug, and being  inverted,  it is  luted to
     the mouth of  another pot sunk in the ground; the
     pot being then surrounded with fire, a brown em-
     pyreumatic oil distills per descensum into the lower
     jar: an 8 gallon  pot, properly filled, yields about
     2 lbs. or 2 1-2 lbs. of oil.   In Siberia, it is prepar-
     ed without the ledum.  This oil is liquid when fresh,
     but grows thick in time.  It is used in Russia for
     currying leather, to which it gives a very peculiar
     smell, much disliked by insects.
                   Oil of gum-benzoin.
       Obtained by distilling the residuum left after
     making flowers of benjainin, by a strong fire. It is
    , used instead of birch "oil, in making an imitation
     of Russia leather.
                    Oil of turpentine.
       Distilled, in Europe, from common turpentine,
     with the addition of about 6 times as much  water;
     but in America, where the operation is carried on
     upon a very large scale, no water is added,  and its
     accidental presence is even dreaded, lest it  should
     produce a disruption of the stilling apparatus.
                To rectify oil of turpentine.
       Pour three  parts of turpentine into a glass retort,
     capable of containing double the quantity of matter
     subjected to the experiment.  Place  this retort on
     a  sand bath; and having adapted to it a receiver 5
     or 6 times as  large, cement  with  paste made  of
     flour and water, some bands of paper over the place
     where the two vessels are joined.  If the  receiver
     is not tubulated,  make a small hole with a  pin in
     the bands of cemented paper, to leave  a free com-
     munication between the exterior and  interior  of
     the receiver;  then place over the retort a  dome of
     baked earth, and maintain the fire in such a man-
     ner, as to make the essence and the water boil,
       The receiver will become filled with abundance
     of vapours, composed of water and ethereous es-
     sence, which will condense the more readily if all
»    the radiating heat of the furnace be intercepted by a
     plate of copper, or piece of board placed  between
     the furnace and the receiver.  When the  mass  of
     oil, subjected  to experiment, has decreased  nearly
     two thirds, the distillation must be stopped.  Then
     leave the product at rest to facilitate the separation
     of the ethereous oil, which is afterwards separated
 from the water, on which it floats, by means of a
 glass funnel, the beak of which is  stopped by the
 finger.
   This ethereous oil is often milky, or merely ne-
 bulous, by the interposition of some aqueous parts,
 from which it may be separated by a few days' rest.
 The essence, thus prepared, possesses a great de-
 gree of mobility,  and is exceedingly limpid.
   Another method.—The apparatus  employed in
 the preceding process may be used in the present
 case.  Fill the retort two thirds with essence, and
 as the receiver is tubulated, apply to the tubulure
 a small square of paper moistened with saliva, to
 afford a free passage to the vapours.  Graduate the
 fire in  such a manner as to carry on the distillation
 very slowly, until a little  more  than  half the oil
 contained in the retort is obtained.   Separate from
 the product, a very small quantity of  exceedingly
 acid and  r%ddish  water, which passes at the same
 time as the ethereous essence: by these means the
 operation is much shortened.  The oil of turpen-
 tine which remains in the retort is  highly  co-
 loured, and thicker than the primitive essence.  It
 may be used for extending fat, varnish, or for coarse
 oil  painting.
                  Krumholz oil.
   Obtained by distillation from Hungarian balsam.
 It is distinguished from oil of turpentine,  which is
 commonly sold for it, by its golden colour, agree-
 able odour, and acid oiliness of taste.
      Balsam of turpentine, or DutchSlrops.
   Obtained by distilling oil of turpentine in a glass
 retort, till a red balsam is left.
   Or,  by distilling  resin and separating the oils as
 they come over; first a white oil, then yellow, lastly
 a thick red oil, which is the balsam.  It is stimu-
 lant and  diuretic.
                    Oil of tar.
   Obtained by distilling tar: it is highly valued by
 painters, varnishers. &c. on account of  its drying
 qualities; it soon thickens of itself, almost to a bal-
 sam: the acid  spirit that comes over with it is
 useful  for many purposes where an acid is wanted.
      Rectified oil  of hartshorn, or Dippels' oil.
   Obtained from  hartshorn, distilled without addi-
 tion, rectifying the  oil, either by a slow distillation
 in a retort, &c. no  bigger  than  is necessary, and
 saving only the first portion that comes over, or
 with water in a common still; it is very  fine  and
 thin, and must be kept in an opaque vessel, or in a
 drawer, or dark place, as it is quickly discoloured
 by  light.   It is antispasmodic, anodyne, and dia-
 phoretic, taken in doses of from  10 to 30 drops, in
 water.
                Japan camphor.
   This is obtained from the roots and shoots of the
 laurus camphora  and laurus cinnamomum, as also
 the capura curundu, by  distillation  with water.
 This crude camphor is refined by sublimation with
 one sixteenth of its  weight of lime, in a very gen-
 tle heat.
            Camphor from essential oils.
   Obtained  from  the oils of the labiate plants, by
 a careful distillation, without addition of one third
 of the  oil; the residuum will be found to  contain
 crystals of camphor, on separating which, and re-
 distilling the remaining oil two or three times, the
 whole of the camphor may be obtained.  Oil of
 rosemary or of sweet marjoram yields about 1 oz.
 of camphor from 10 of  oil; of the sage 1 o*. from
 8; and  of lavender 1 oz.  from 4, or even less of oil:
 that from oil of marjoram is not volatile, and al-
 though it takes fire, it soon goes out.  This rosin,
 like the others from essential oils, may be obtained
 in a larger proportion, ii the oil is kept in slightly
 stopped bottles in a cool place
I
                                     JV2 
150
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
            DISTILLED WATERS.

      preservation of flowers for distillation.
   Rub three pounds of rose-leaves for two or three
 minutes with a pound of common salt. The flowers
 being bruised by the friction of the grains of salt,
 form a paste which is to be put into an earthen jar,
 or into a water-tight barrel.  The same process is
 to be repeated until the vessel is filled, so that all
 the roses may be equally salted.  The vessel is then
 to be shut up and kept in a cool place until wanted.
   For distinction, this aromatic paste is, at  any I
 season, to be  put  into the body of  the still with
 twice its weight of water; and when heat is applied;'
 the oil, or essential water, is to be obtained in the ;
 common way.   Both the oil and water are in  this
 way produced  in  greater quantity, than by using
 the leaves without the salt: besides, the preserved
 paste will keep its flavour and strength unimpaired
 for several years.
   Other flowers, capable of affording essential oils,
 may also be treated in the above-mentioned way,
 with economy and advantage;  as there is  thereby
 no occasion to carry on a hurried process in  the
 heat of summer, when these are  in perfection.
 General rules for the distillation of simple waters.
   1. Plants and their parts ought to  be fresh ga-
 thered.  When  they are directed fresh, such only
 must be employed; but some are allowed to be used
 dry, as being easily procurable in this state at  all
 times of the year, though rather more elegant  wa-
 ters might be obtained from them whilst green.
   2.  Having bruised  the subjects a little, pour
 thereon thrice its quantity of spring  water.  This
 quantity is to be diminished or increased, accord-
 ing as the plants are more or less juicy than ordi-
nar}*.   When fresh and juicy herbs are to be dis-
 tilled,  thrice their weight  of water will be fully
 sufficient, but dry ones require a much larger quan-
 tity.   In general there should be so much water,
 that after all intended to be distilled has come over,
 there may be liquor enough to prevent the matter
 from burning to  the still.
   3.  Formerly,  some vegetables Avere slightly fer-
mented with the addition of yeast, previous to the
 distillation.
   4.  If any drops of oil swim on the surface of the
water,  they are to be carefully taken off. ,
   5.  That the  waters  may be  kept the better,
about one-twentieth part of their weight of proof
 spirit may be added to each, after they are distilled.
            Stills for simple watery.  .
   The instruments chiefly used in the distillation
 of simple waters are of two kinds, commonly called
 the hot still, or alembic, and the cold still.  The
 waters drawn by the cold still from plants.ar.emuch
more  fragrant, and  more folly  impregnate^ wjth
 their virtues, than those drawn  by the hot stjll or
alembic.
   The method is this:—A pewter body is suspend-
 ed in the body of the alembic, and the head of the
 still fitted to the pewter body: into this body  the
ingredients to be  distilled are  put, the  alembic
filled with water, the still head luted to the pewter
body, and the nose luted to the worm of the refri-
geratory or  worm.   The same  intention  will  be
answered by putting the ingredients into  a glass
alembic, and placing it in a bath heat, or balneum
niarwe.
   The cold still is much the best adapted to draw
 off the  virtues of simples, which are valued  for
 their fine flavour when green, which  is subject to
 be lost in drying; for when we want to extract from
plants a spirit so light and  volatile, as not to sub-
 sist in open air any longer than while the plant
 continues in its growth, it is certainly the best me- !
 tliod to remove  the plant from  its native soil into l|
 some proper instrument, where, as it dies, these
 volatile parts can be collected and preserved.  And
 suoh an instrument  is what we call the  cold  still,
 where the drying of the plant, or flower, is  only
 forwarded by a moderate warmth, and all that rises
 is collected and preserved.
   Expeditious method of distilling simple waters.
   Tie  a  piece of muslin  or gauze over a  glazed
 earthen pot, whose mouth  is just large  enough to
 receive the bottom of a warming-pan; on this cloth
 lay the herb, clipped;  then  place  upon them the
 warming-pan, with  live coals  in it, to cause heat
 just enough to prevent burning, by which means,
 as the steam issuing out of the herb cannot  mount
 upwards, by reason of the bottom of the pan just
 fitting the brim of the vessel  below it, it must ne-
 cessarily  descend, and collect into water at the bot-
 tom of the receiver,  and that  strongly impregnated
 with the essential oil, and the salt of the vegetable
 thus distilled; which, if wanted to make spirituous
 or compound water, is  easily done, by simply ad-
 ding  some  good  spirits or  French brandy to it,
 which will keep good for a long time, and be much
 better than if the spirits had passed through a still,
 which  must  of  necessity waste  some of  their
 strength.  Care should  be taken not to let the fire
 be too strong,  lest it scorch  the plants; and to be
 made of charcoal, for continuance and better regu-
 lation, which must be managed by lifting  up and
 laying down the lid, as wanted  to increase  or de-
 crease the degrees of heat.  The deeper the earthen
 pan, the cooler the season,  and the less fire at  first
 (afterwards  to be gradually raised), in the greater
 perfection will the distilled water be obtained.
  As the  more moveable or volatile parts of vege-
 tables are the  aqueous, the oily, the  gummy,  the
 resinous,  and the saline, these are to  be expected
 in the waters of this process;  the  heat here  em-
 ployed being so great as to burst the vessels of the
 plants,  some of which  contain so large a quantity
 of oil, that it may be seen  swimming  on the sur-
 face of the water.
  Although a small  quantity only of distilled  wa-
 ters can be obtained at a time by thisconfined opera-
 tion,yetit compensates in strength what is deficient
 in quantity.   Such liquors,  if well corked up from
 the air, will keep good a  long time, especially if
 about a twentieth part  of any spirits be added, in
 order to preserve the same more effectually.
            To make rosemary water.
  As the  method of performing the operation by
 the cold still is the  very same, whatever plant or
 flower is used, the following instance of procuring
 a water from rosemary will  be abundantly suffi-
 cient to instruct the young practitioner in the man-
 ner of conducting the process in all cases whatever.
  Take rosemary, fresh gathered in its perfection,
.with the morning dew  upon  it, and lay it lightly
 and unbriiised upon the plate  or bottom of the still;
 cover the  plate with  its conical  head, and apply a
 glass receiver to the  nose of it.  Make a small fire
 of charcoal under the plate, continuing it as long
 as aty fuuior comes  over into the receiver.
 , When,  nothing  more comes  over, take  off the
 still head, and remove the plant, putting fresh in
 its stead, and proceed as before; continue to repeat
 the operation successively,  till a sufficient quantity
 of water is procured, .Let this'distilled water be
 kept  at rest in clean bottles, close stopped,  for
 some days in  a cold place: by this means it  will
 become limpid, and  powerfully impregnated with  |
 the taste and smell ot the plant.
            Simple Alexetereal wdlers.
  Take of  spearmint  leaves, ffesh,' l^lbW   sea
 wormwood tops, fresh, angeiica leaves,'fresh,, e'ai'h
 I lb.; water, as much  as  is  sufficient to prevent
 burning.  Draw oft' by distillation 3, gallons.—Qy 
DISTILLATION.
151
take of elder flowers, moderately dried, 2 pounds;
angelica leaves, fresh gathered, 1 pound; water, a
sufficient quantity.  Distil off 3 gallons.
            Simple pennyroyal water.
  Take of pennyroyal leaves,  dry, a pound and a
half; water as much as will prevent burning. Draw
off by distillation  1 gallon.
             Simple spearmint water.
  Take of spearmint leaves, fresh, any quantity;
water, three times as much.   Distil as long as the
liquor which comes over has a considerable taste
or smell of the mint.—Or, take spearmint leaves,
dried,  1^ lbs., water as much as is sufficient to pre-
vent burning.  Draw off by distillation I gallon.
               Cinnamon water.
  Take of bruised cinnamon,  1 lb.—water, 2 gal-
lons.   Simmer in a still for half an hour, put what
comes over into the still again; when cold, strain
through flannel.
               Eau sans-pareil.
  Taki* 2 gallons of fine  old  honey-water, put it
into a  still capable of holding 4 gallons, and add
the thinly pared rinds of 6 or 8 fresh citrons, nei-
ther green nor mellow ripe.  Then add 60 or 70
drops of fine Roman bergamot: and, having  luted
the apparatus well, let the whole digest in a mo-
derate heat for 24 hours. Draw oft, by a water-
bath heat, about 1 gallon.
               Jessamine water.
  Take 6 pounds of the white  sweet almond cakes
from which  jessamine  oil has been made abroad:
beat and sift them to a fine powder, and  put  to it
as much fresh oil  of jessamine as will be required
to make it into a stiff paste.  Let this paste be dis-
solved in about 6 quarts of spring water,  which has
been previously well boiled, and left until it has
become about half cold.   Stir  and  mix the whole
Avell together; and when the oil  and water have been
well combined, let the whole stand until the pow-
der has fallen to the bottom  of the vessel.  Now
pour the liquid off gently, and  filter it through cot-
ton, in a large tin funnel, into the glass bottle in
which it is to be kept for use.  The powder or se-
diment wi.ieh has been left  at the bottom of the
vessel, when dried by the heat of the sun, answers
very well  for making almond paste for the hands.
             Jamaica pepper  water.
  Jamaica pepper is the fruit of a tall tree growing
in the mountainous parts of Jamaica, where it is
much cultivated because of the great profit arising
from the  cured fruit, seiu in large quantities annu-
ally into Europe.   Take of Jamaica pepper, half a
pound; water, two gallons and a half; draw off 1
gallon with a pretty brisk fire.  The oil of this
fruit  is very donderous, and therefore this water
is made in an alembic.
                 Myrtle water.
  Infuse 8 or 10 lbs. of the cuttings of green myr-
tle, iu nearly 20 gallons of rain or river water, and
add thereto a pint of fresh yeast, after it has stood
for 24 hours. At the end of another day and night,
put the whole into a still, with a pound of bay salt.
Draw off" the whole of the water; and, next day, in-
fuse more myrtle leaves, as before, and distil again.
Repeat the same a third time.
             Orange flower water.
  Take 2 lbs. of orange flowers, and 24 qunrts of
water, and draw over three pints.—Or, take 12 lbs.
of orange flowers, and 16 quarts of water, and draw
over 15 quarts.
              Orange peel water.
  Take of  the outward  yellow rind of Seville
oranges,  4 ounces; water, 3  gallons and a  half;
draw  oft' 1 gallon  by the alembic, with a brisk fire.
              Peppermint boater.
  Take of the herb ot peppermint, dried, 1 1-2 lbs.;
water, as much as is sufficient  to prevent burning.
Distil off a gallon.  This has been known to allay |
sickness Avhen nothing else would succeed, and is
used in flatulent colics.   A wine-glassful may be
taken, and often repeated.
  Another.— Take of oil of peppermint, 1 lb.; wa-
ter, a sufficient quantity. Draw off 30 gallons. This
is stimulant and carminative; and covers disagree-
able flavours.
          Portugal and Angel waters.
  Take a  pint  ot orange flower water, a pint of
rose-water,  and half a  pint of myrtle-water;  to
these put a quarter of an ounce of distilled spirit of
musk, and an ounce of spirit of ambergris.  Shake
the whole well  together, and  the process will be
finished.
                 Rose waterr
  Take of the leaves of fresh  damask  roses with
the heels cut off, 6 lbs.-water, as much as to pre-
vent burning.   Distil off a gallon.   The distilled
water should be drawn from dried herbs, because
the fresh cannot be got  at all times in the year.
Whenever the fresh are used the weights must be
increased; but whether the fresh or dry are  made
use of, it is left to the judgment of the operator  to
vary the  Aveight, according as the plants are  in
greater or less perfection, owing to the season  in
which they grew, or were collected.
               Smull snail water.
  Take of balm, mint, hart's tongue, ground ivy,
flowers of the  dead nettle, mallow flowers, elder
flowers, each a handful; snails, freed  from  their
shells, and whites of eggs, each 4 oz.; nutmegs,  1-2
oz.; milk, 1 gallon.   Distil in a water bath to dry-
ness.
               Strawberry water.
  Take of the bruised fruit, 20 lbs.; water a suffi-
cient quantity.  Draw off two  gallons  and a half:
this water is very fragrant.
7 o estimate the quantity of salts contained in any
                mineral -water.
  This may be done with considerable accuracy by
finding the difference of weight between a bottle
filled to a  certain mark with  distilled  water, and
the same filled  with the mineral water:  to this dif-
ference add l-5lh, and  again  another fifth; the
weight will then denote that of the silts ontained
in the bottle of Avater; large square case bottles are
well adapted for this purpose.   Let the difference
be  79 grains,  l-5lh is 15 grains 4-5ths; and  the
other 5th the same: total, 111) grains 3-5ths.
  The sa'ts, obtained by the evaporation of  a mi-
neral water, are not to be considered  as its real
contents, because new combinations are  formed
during the process, and the most  insoluble com-
pounds possible are separated first; whereas  in the
original water there is good reas n to suppose  the
real mode of composition is that of the most solu-
ble compositions that are capable of* being formed
from th< remote principles contained in the water.
Hence those common products, sulphate of lime
and muriate of soda, probably exist in mineral wa-
ters as sulphau,' of soda and muriate of lime,  and it
is to the presence of the latter salt that much of
the medical effects of mineral  waters is to be  as-
cribed.—Gray's Supplement to the Pharmacopotia.
            Common distilled water.
  Take of  water,  10  gallons.  Distil.  Throw
away the first half gallon, and  draw off 4 gallons,
which keep in glass or stone ware.  Distilled wa-
ter is used as a diet drink  in  cancerous diseases,
and should be used in making medicines when  the
salts contained in common water would  decompose
them.
   COMPOUND DISTILLED WATERS.

General rules for the distillation of spirituous wateri.
  1.  The plants and their parts ought to be mode- 
152
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 rately and newly dried, except such as are ordered
 to be fresh gathered.
  2. After the ingredients have been steeped in the
 spirit for the time prescribed, add as much water
 as will be  sufficient to prevent a burnt flavour, or
 rather more.
  3. The liquor which comes over first in the dis-
 tillation  is hv some kept by itself, under the title
 of spirit; and the  other  runnings, which  prove
 milky, are fined down by art   But it is preferable
 to mix all the runnings together, without fining
 them, that the waters may possess the virtues of
 the plant entire.
  4. In the distillation of these waters, the genuine
 brandy obtained from wine is directed.   Where
 this  is not  to be  procured, take, instead  of that
 proof-spirit, half its quantity of a well rectified spi-
 rit, prepared from any other fermented liquors.
 In t' is steep the ingredients, and  then add  spring
 water enough, both to make  up  the quantity or-
 dered to  be drawn off, and to prevent burning.
                Bergamot water.
  Take of fine old French brandy, 2 gallons, or, 1
 gallon of highly  rectified spirit of wine, and 1 gal-
 lon of spring water.  Put to the brandy, or diluted
 spirits, 1-2 an ounce, or more, of true Roman oil
 of Bergamot, whose parts  have   been  previously
 well divided by trituration with lump sugar, in  a
 glass mortar.  Now distil by a  water heat,  and
 draw off six quarts only.  By this  operation,  a
 most excellent bergamot water will  be produced,
 which will remain good for twenty years.
      Original receipt for Hungary water.
  T..e original receipt for preparing this invalua-
 ble lotion, is written in letters of gold in the band
 writing of Elizabeth, queen of Hungary.  Take of
 aqua vitae, four times distilled, 3 parts,—the tops
 and flowers of rosemary, 2 parts.   To be put toge-
 ther  in a  close-stopped vessel, and allowed to stand
 in a warm place, (luring fifty hours, then to be dis-
 tilled in an alembic, and of this, once every week,
 1 drachm to be taken in the morning, either in the
 food  or drink, and every morning the face and the
 diseased  limb to  be washed with it.
            j Venc/i Hungary water.
  The French Hungary water is made wholly from
a wine spirit, and  from rosemary flowers  alone,
 which about Montpellier (the  place from whence
this commodity comes), grow in  great plenty and
perfection.   The fragrancy of these flowers is so
great, as to render the waters made  from them
more excellent and valuable than any thing  of the
kind made in England.
              Best Hungary water.
  Take thirty gallons of spirit of wine: put to it, in
 a large still, six  large  bunches of fine green rose-
 mary, when the flowers are  white, and in  full
 bloom; one  pound of lavender flowers, and four
 ounces of true English oil ot rosemary.  The rose-
 mary-leaves and  flowers must be stripped from all
 their wood and green twigs.   When the whole has
been in a state of digestion for twenty-four hours,
 distil as  before,  drawing off about twenty-five or
twenty-six gallons, but no more.   When distilled,
 stop it closely in a copper  vessel,  and  keep it un-
disturbed for about a month.
     Aqua mellis, or the king's honey water.
  First distillation.—Take 28 pounds of coriander
 seeds, ground small in  the  starch-mill,—28 com-
mon  bunches of  sweet marjoram, in flower, dried
and stripped from the twigs,—1 pound ot calamus
 atomaticus,—1 pound of yellow saunders,—and  I
 pound of orange and lemon peel.  Let  the three
 last be separately beaten into gross powder.   Mix
 the above ingredients, and put them into a  sixty-
 gallon copper still, and add to them twenty gallons
 of proof  spirit, and the same quantity of rain or
  spring water.  Lute well all the junctures of the
  apparatus, and leave the ingredients in  this state,
  without fire, for forty-eight hours.  At the end of
  this time, begin to distil by a very gentle heat, lest
  the flowers and seeds, which are very light, should
  rise suddenly in the still-head, stop up the worm,
  and endanger the whole work.
    Increase the fire  after the  first half hour, and
  keep it regular, till the termination of the process.
  Draw off about twenty-six or twenty-seven gallons,
  or continue so long as the spirit will burn, by the
  application of a lighted paper to  a small quantity
  of it in a saucer.  Next day, when the still  is per-
!  fectly cold, let it be well cleaned out.  The ingre-
  dients should  be immediately dried  in the  sun,
I  otherwise they will  become mouldy.  When there
  is a considerable quantity from three or four mak-
  ings, it ought to be ground in a mill,  and finely
  sifted.  They will be found to be of great use in
  the making of ordinary brown wash-balls; and with
i  some additions of brown powders for the hair.
    Second distillation.—Now  return  the   spirits
j  drawn off into the still, and add ten or twelve gal-
  lons of water.  Then put in the following ingredi-
I  ents, bruised and mixed: 14 ounces of nutmegs, 4
|  ounces of cloves, 12 ounces of cinnamon bark, 8
I  ounces of pimento, and 40 ounces of cassia-lignum.
  These are to be separately broken or bruised in an
  iron mortar, until they are about the  size of small
  peas.  If there be any dust, it must be sifted from
  them before they are used.  Then take 40 ounces
  of storax, 40 ounces of gum-benjamin, 44 ounces
  oflabdanum, and 40 venellios.
    Break  and bruise the above also,  but make as
  little dust as possible.   Put the dust from these
  and the foregoing, together, into a coarse  muslin
 bag, which is to be hung in the still, so that the li-
 quor, during distillation, may extract all its virtues.
 The whole are then to remain in the liquor, in a
 cold state, for forty-eight  hours; attention being
  still paid  to luting and  stopping close, as before.
 At the end of this time kindle the fire,  and work
 off(slowly at first) until twenty-six gallons are dis-
 tilled.  Mix all the different runnings together in
 a copper  vessel, kept for this purpose only.
   Having drawn oft", in  this  second distillation,
 twenty-six gallons, mix together 10 uz. of spirit of
 musk, 10 oz. of spirit of ambergris, 1-2 oz. of true
 oil of lavender, 1-2 oz. of essence of bergamot, and
  1-2 oz. of oil  of rhodium.   Now add to it,  in a
 copper vessel, that will hold forty gallons, six gal-
 lons of orange-flower water, and eight gallons of
 rose-water,recently  made. When properly mixed,
 put all these into the copper vessel, and slir the
  whole well together.  Add to all these a quart of
 milk, which has stood for a  night, and which has
 had the cream taken clearly oft*,  then agitate and
 mix the whole well together, and stop the vessel up
 close, until tha time when it is to be used.
   The jar ought to have a  lock-cock soldered  into
 it, to prevent accidents.  This should be placed full
 two  inches  from the bottom,  in order that the
 milk, and other impurities may fall to the bottom.
   If this honey-water be made in the spring, and
 if the weather be fair, it will be quite fined down
 in  the course ofa month; that is, if it be  not open-
 ed or disturbed.  When, by drawing off a little in
 a glass, the milk, &c. have fallen down to the bot-
 tom, draw the Avhole oft" into clean and  well  sea-
 soned stone, or glass bottles; or into  another cop-
 per-jar. This composition ought never to be drawn
 off in rainy or cloudy weather; for then the milk is
 apt to rise.   In warm weather it should be kept
 cool; and, in winter, as warm as possible.   When
 distilled in the winter, the jars ought  to be warm-
 ed, or otherwise the honey-water will not be fined
 for five or six months. 
DISTILLATION.
163
   This honey-water may keep thirty years.
   The ingredients from the second distillation are
 of much greater value than those from the first, and
 therefore require more care in the drying.  These-
 are of great use for the best sort of gross powders,
 for sweet bags, &c; and, if made into a fine pow-
 der, may be made use of with great success, in the
 best sort of brown perfumed balls.
   The same  powder,  Avith  fresh   ingredients,
 makes excellent pastils, to burn; and may be fur-
 ther used in making spirit of benjamin.
            Compound spirit of juniper.
   Take of juniper-berries,  well bruised, 1 lb. ca-
 raway seeds, and sweet fennel seeds, each, bruis-
 ed,  1 1-2 oz. diluted alcohoi,  1  gallon.   Macerate
 for two days, and having added  as much water as
 will  prevent empyreuma, draw  off, by distillation,
 one gallon.
                 Lavender spirit.
   Take 14 pounds of lavender flowers,  10 1-2 gal-
 lons of rectified spirit of wine, and 1 gallon of wa-
 ter; draw off ten gallons by a gentle fire; or, which
 is much better, by a sand bath heat.
                Lavender water.
   Take 30 gallons cf  the best wine spirit, pour ic
 into a copper still, placed in a hot-water bath, over
 a clear but  steady fire; put  to it 6 pounds of the
 largest and  freshest lavender flowers, after having
 separated them from  all stalks  and green leaves,
 which give  the lavender water  a  woody and faint
 smell.  Put no water into the  still; close all the
 junctures well, ard let the spirits and flowers stand
 n a state of digestion for 24 hours; and then, with
 a gentle fire, draw off 25 or, at most, 26 gallons
 only, which, as soon as distilled, are  to be poured
 into a copper vessel for keeping.  Wooden vessels
 and  cans are to be avoided, as the best parts of the
 oil and of the spirits will be absorbed  by them,
 and  consequently lost.  When  the distillation  is
 over, draw out, or quench the fire, and let the re-
 maining spirits and flowers continue in the still un-
 til the next  day.   When the above quantity of 25
 or 26 gallons has stood for 4 or  5 days, put to it 10
 oz. of true English oil of lavender.  Mix the whole
 well  in the jar, by drawing out one or two gallons,
 and   then returning  them.  Repeat this  ten or
 twelve times, then stop the vessel up close, and do
 not disturb it for a month, at least.
       Lavender water of the second order.
  To the 4  or 5 gallons of the spirits, and the la-
 vender flowers left in the still, after the distillation
 mentioned in the last article, add 15 gallons of I
 common proof spirit, 9 or 10 gallons of spring wa-
 ter, 3 pounds of lavender-flowers, an'! 4 oz. of oil
 of lavender, intimately mixed with loaf-sugar, by
 powdering it in a glass mortar.   Digest the whole,
 and  draw off 25 gallons, proceeding  in every re-
 spect as before, except that, in this case, no oil  is
 to be added; for,  as there is so much water pre-
 sent, the addition  of oil would be  apt to  turn the
 whole quantity muddy, or of a blueish  or opaque
 colour, which it cannot be easily freed from, with-
 out a second distillation.
     ■^Lavender wate for immediate use.
  Mix with  1 gallon, of proof spirit, 1£ ounce of
 true  English oil of lavender, which is all that  will
 properly combine with the spirit, without injuring
 the colour,  by  rendering it muddy.   When  the
 spirit and the oil are  properly mixed, they are to
 be put into  glass bottles, which  are to be well
 stopped, and ought to be shaken before used.      I
           Perfumed lavender water.
  Distil by a gentle heat in  a  sand or water bath;
or mix and  shake frequently, during 14 days,the j
 following ingredients: I ounce of foreign oil of la-
vender, 1-2 ditto of English ditto,  1-2 ditto of es- j
       U
sence of ambergris, and one gallon of rectified spi-
rit of wine.
                 Lemon water.
  The peel of the lemon, the part used in making
this water, is a very grateful bitter aromatic, and,
on that account, very serviceable in repairing and
strengthening the stomach.   Take of dried lemon-
peel, 4 lbs. proof spirit, 10  1-2 gallons, and one
gallon of water.  Draw off 10 gallons by a gentle
fire.
              Spirit of peppermint.
  Take of the herb of'peppermint, dried, 11-2 lbs.
proof spirit, 1 gallon, water, sufficient  to  prevent
burning.  Distil off a gallon.
           Compound gentian water.
  Take of gentian root, sliced, 3 lbs.; leaves and
flowers of the lesser centaury, each 8 ounces; in-
fuse the whole in 6 quarts of proof spirit and one
quart  of water;  and draw  oft' the water till the
feints begin to rise.
             Spirit of scurvy grass.
  Take of scurvygrass, fresh gathered and bruised,
15 pounds; horse-radish root 6 pounds;  rectified
spirit of wine, 1 gallon; and water, 3 pints.  Digest
the whole in  a close vessel  2 days, and draw off a
gallon with a gentle fire.
             Antiscorbutic water.
  Take of the leaves of water-cresses, garden and
sea scurvygrass, and brook-lime, each 20 handsful:
of pine-tops, germander, horehound, and the lesser
centaury, each 16 handsful: of the roots of bryony
and sharp pointed dock, each 6 pounds: of mustard
seed, 1 1-2 pounds.  Digest the whole  in 10 gal-
lons of proof spirit, and 2 gallons of  water, and
draw off by a gentle fire.
                ACID  LIQUORS.

                To make vinegar.
    Vinegar is used principally as a sauce and .to
  preserve vegetable substances; but it  is employed
  externally when an over dose of strong wine, spirit,
  opium, or  other narcotic  poison  has been taken.
  A false strength is given to it by adding oil of vit-
  riol, or some acrid vegetable, as pellitory of Spain,
  capsicum, &c.  It is rendered  colourless by add-
  ing fresh burned bone black, 6  ounces to a gallon,
  and letting it stand for two or three days to clear.
  Mix cideiJ and honey, in the.proportion of 1 lb. of
  honey to a gallon of cider, and let it stand in a ves-
  sel for some  mon.hs, and vinegar will be produced
  so powi vful,  that water must be mixed  with it for
  common use.
   Another method.—Scheele,  a  celebrated  che-
  mist,  has  recommended  the  following  recipe:
  Take  6 spoonsful of good alcohol; to this add 3
  pints of milk, and put the mixture into vessels to
  be corked close.   Vent must be given from  time
  to time to the gas of fermentation.  In the course
  of a month, this will produce very good vinegar.
   Another.—Put into a barrel of sufficient dimen-
  sions a mixture composed of 41 wine pints of wa-
  ter,  about  8  pints of whiskey, (I'eau de vin  de
  grain) about 2 wine pints of yeast, and 2 pounds
[  of charcoal, and place it in a proper situation for
i  fermentation.   At the end of 4 months a very good
i  vinegar will be formed, as clear and as white as
  water.
                Common vinegar.
I   This is made from weak mait liquor, brewed for
|  the purpose:  its various strength is, in England,
'■  denoted by numbers, from 18 to 24.
i   Another.—To every gallon of water put I lb.  of
  coarse Lisbon sugar; let the mixture be boiled and
!  skimmed as long as any scum arises.  Then let it 
54
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
be poured  into proper vessels: and when it is as
cool as beer, when worked, let a toast, rubbed over
Avith  yeast, be put  to it.  Let  it  work about  24
hours, and then put it into an  iron-hooped cask,
fixed either near a constant fire, or where the sum-
mer sun shines the greater part of the day; in this
situation it should not he closely stopped up; but a
tile, or  something similar, should be laid  on  the
Dung hole, to keep out the dust and insects.  At
the end of about 3  months (sometimes less) it will
be clear and fit for use, and may be bottled  off.
The longer it is kept, after it is bottled, the better
it will be.   If the vessel containing the liquor is to
be exposed to the sun's heat, the best time to  be-
gin making it is in the month of April.
                 Wine vinegar.
   Take any sort of wine that has gone through fer-
mentation, and put it into a cask that has had vine-
gar in it; then take some of the fruit or stalks  of
which the wine has been made, and put them  wet
into an open-headed cask in the sun, with a coaise
cloth  over the top of it, for six days—after which,
put them in the  vinegar, and stir it  well about-
then put it in a warm place, if in winter, or if in
summer, put it in a yard in the sun, with a slate
over the bung.   When the vinegar is sour enough
and fine, rack it  off into  a clean  sour cask, and
bung  it up;'then put it in the cellar for use.  Those
wines that contain the most mucilage are fittest for
the purpose.
  The lees of pricked wine are also a very proper
ingredient in vinegar.
                Sugar vinegar.
  To each  gallon of water add 2 lbs. of brown su-
gar, and a little yeast; leave it exposed to the sun
for six months, in a vessel slightly stopped.
              Gooseberry vinegar.
  Bruise the gooseberries, when ripe, and to every
quart  put three quarts of water; stir them well to-
gether, and let  the whole stand for 24 hours, then
strain it through a  canvass bag.  To every gallon
of liquor add 1 lb.  of brown sugar, and stir them
well together before they  are put  into the  cask.
Proceed in all other respects as before.   This vi-
negar possesses  a  pleasant  taste  and smell;  but
raspberry vinegar, which may be made on  the same
plan,  is  far superior in these respects.  The rasp-
berries are not required to be of the best sort, still
they  should be ripe and well flavoured.
               Currant vinegar.
  This is made in the same way as that from goose-
berries,  only pick off the currant", from the stalks.
              Primrose vinegar.
  To 15 quarts of water put 6 lbs. of brown sugar;
let it  boil ten minutes, and take off the scum; pour
on it half a peck of primroses; before it is quite
cold,  put in a little fresh yeast, and let it work in
a warm  place all night;  put it in a barrel  in  the
kitchen, aud when done .working, close the barrel,
still keeping it in a warm place.
                Raisin vinegar.
  After making  raisin wine, lay the pressed rai-
sins in a heap to heat, then to each cwt. put 10
gallons of water, and a little yeast.
                Cider vinegar.
  The poorest sort of cider will serve for vinegar,
in managing which proceed thus.—First draw  off
the cider into a cask that has had vinegar in >.t be-
fore;  then put some of the apples  that have been
pressed  into it, set the whole in the sun,  and in a
week or 9  days it  may be  drawn off into another
cask.—This is a good table vinegar.
        Vinegar from the refuse of fruits.
   Take the skins of raisins after  they have been
used  in  making wine, and pour three times their
own quantity of boiling water on them; stir them
well about and then set the  cask in a warm place,
[ close covered, and the liquor,  in a week, when
 drawn off from its sediment, put into another cask,
 and well bunged down, will be a good vinegar for
 the table.
        Vinegar from the refuse of bee-hives.
   When honey is extracted from the combs, by
 means of pressure, take the whole mass, breakand
I separate it, and into each tub or vessel put one part
i of combs, and two of water; place them in the sun,
! or in a  warm  place, and cover them with cloths.
 Fermentation  takes place in a few days, and con-
 tinues from 8 to 12 days, according to the higher
 or lower temperature  of the situation in which the
 operation is carried on.   During the fermentation,
 stir the matter from time to time and press it down
 with the hands, that it may be  perfectly soaked.
 When the fermentation is over, put  the matter to
 drain upon sieves or strainers.  At the bottom of
 the vessels will be found a yellow liquor, which
 must be thrown away, because it would soon con-
 tract a disagreeable smell, which it would commu-
 nicate  to the vinegar.   Then wash  the  tubs, put
 into them the  water separated from the other mat-
 ter; it immediately begins to turn  sour; when the
 tubs must be again covered w;th cloths, and kept
 moderately warm. A  pellicle or skin is formed on
 their surface, beneath which the vinegar  acquires
 strength; in a month's time it begins to be sharp,
 it must be left standing a little longer, and then put
 into a cask, of which  the bung-hole is left open.
 It may then be used like any other vinegar.
              To strengthen vin-gar.
   Suffer it to be  repeatedly frozen, and  separate
 the upper cake of ice, or water from it.
   All vinegars owe their principal strength to the
 acetic acid they contain;  but the vinegar of wine
 contains also a tartar,  a small portion of the malic
i acid, alcohol, and  colouring matter: that of cider
I contains merely the malic acid, little or no alcohol,
 and a yellowish colouring matter.
 Vinegars from orange and elder flowers, clove, gil-
            liflowers, musk roses, &c.
   Dry an ounce of either of the above flowers, (ex-
 cept the orange flowers, which will  not  bear dry-
 ing), for two days in the sun; then put them into a
 bottle, pour on them a pint of vinegar, closely stop
j the bottle, and infuse 15 days  in moderate heat ot
j the sun.  Vinegars of any  other flowers, as tarra-
 gon, &c. may  be made in a similar manner.
             To prepare ice vinegar.
   Saturate 3 or 4  pounds of purified potash with
 wine or beer vinegar, which has been distilled over
 charcoal powder;  evaporate the saturated liquor to
 the consistence of a d.y powder, of which put 3 lbs.
 accurately weighed, when still warm, into a glass,
 previously heated, and shut it with a glass stopper,
 Then pour 3 lbs.  of sulphuric acid  into a retort,
 provided on its upper  part with a pipe, and join to
 it a receiver, large enough for containing about 20
 pints of water.  Begin to add  to the sulphuric acid
 the above salt  in small portions:  shaking and stir-
 ring it frequently. After having mixed all the salt,
 add by degrees 1  lb. more of sulphuric  acid, and
 shut the pipe with a wet bladder: suffer the whole
 to stand quietly  one night.   The next  morning
 place the retort into the  sand-pot of a furnace so
 deeply, that the sand between the bottom of the
 pot and the retort be oi.ly about half an inch thick;
 put  the receiver  into a  refrigeratory filled  with
 very cold water,  after which  apply  a gentle fire.
 About an hour after, thadistitlation commences by
 white  fumes appearing in the vessels,  at which
 time the fire must be very carefully managed. The
 drops that go over may succeed one another quick-
 ly,  without any danger of the  vessels being crack-
 ed: but be very careful that no coherent streams
 run over, and  likewise take care that the thick and 
DISTILLATION.
155
white fumes only lodge in the lowest part of the
receiver; and when they begin to rise, particularly
with a whirling motion, take the fire immediately
out of the furnace.  It is, besides, necessary to refri-
gerate often the upper part of the receiver with
cold water, or, which is still better, with snow or
ice.   The ending of the distillation is known by
the disappearance of the white fumes, by the drops
running over much slower, and particularly by the
liquefaction  of the residuum to a black frothing
fluid, that goes easily over into the receiver.  At
the moment of the liquefying and  frothing of that
Bubstance, the receiver ought to be taken off, and
another put  on,  into which 5 or 6 dr. of a  much
weaker and disagreeably smelling acetous \c\A will
go over; that,  hoAvever, may be used for purifying
the ice vinegar from the adherent sulphurous acid;
when, after having diluted with  water, it is satu-
rated with barytes,  filtrated,  and evaporated  to
dryness.  The residuum is ground to a fire pow-
der, and, together with charcoal powder, added to
the ice vinegar;  after which  the  mixture  ought to
be rectified over  a gentle tire, to the dryness of the
residuum.  Of 3 lbst of acetate  of kali, 22 oz. of
ice-vinegar were obtained by this method.
                'To make quass.
  Mix rye  flour and warm water together, and
leave it till  it has turned sour.   Th's vinegar is
much drank in Russia; it loooks thick and unplea-
sant at first, but  becomes agreeable by use.
               Distilled vinegar.
  This is obtained from vinegar  by distillation,
rejecting the 4th or 8th part that comes over first,
and avoiding its  acquiring a burnt flavour.
  Distilled vinegar is weaker than the common,
but is used  sometimes in pickfos, where its want
of colour is an advantage.
           Improved distilled vinegar.
  Obtained from wood distilled in large iron cy-
linders for  the manufacture  of charcoal  for  gun-
powder; when rectified it is used  for all the pur-
poses of distilled vinegar.
To deprive vinegar and other vegetable liquids of
                  their colour.
  To take away  the colour of vinegar, a litre of red
wine vinegar,  cold, is mixed with  45  grammes of
bone-charcoal, in a glass vessel.   Shake this mix-
ture from time to time, and  in  two or three days
the colour completely disappears.  When the pro-
cess is to be  performed in the large way,  throw
the charcoal into a cask of vinegar, which must be
stirred from time to time.  The highest  coloured
red wines treated  in the same manner become per-
fectly limpid.  Ivory black possesses the same pro-
perty as bone  black.
            'I o prepare the  charcoal.
  Fill a crucible with the most compact parts of
ox and sheep boi.es, lute the cover, carefully leav-
ing only a small opening at the top, place the cru-
cible on a forge  fire, and heat it gradually till red,
when the flame from the oily and  gelatinous parts
has ceased, diminish the opening and  suddenly
raise the fire, when cold, reduce  the charcoal or
porphyry t« fine powder.
         To procure pyroligneous acid.
  This acid is procured from  any kind of green
wood (such  as cord wood\ used for making char-
coal; a cord  of wood (worth  in  Monmouthshire
about 8s.) will produce about eighty gallons.  It is
obtained in the following manner:—A brisk oven is
filled with coal or wood, until it becomes sufficient-
ly hot to heat  an oven over it to that degree as to
reduce green wood to a charcoal.   The upper oven
should be closely stopped except a tube at the top
to carry oft" the steam or acid, which tube is passed
through water, and the steam thus condensed forms
Ihe acid.
              To prepare the same.
  Place a large cast-iron cylinder, or retort (simi-
lar to those used for the production of carburetted
hydrogen gas), in a furnace, so that it may receive
as much  heat, all round, as possible.  One end of
this cylinder must  be so constructed as to open and
shut, to admit wood, and exclude the air.
  Oak in pieces about a foot in length is to be put
into the  cylinder, which is to be filled as full as
possible, without being wedged, and the door must
be shut close to exclude air; from the cylinder let
a worm run through cold water to condense the
acid;  by this it is conveyed to a large cask placed
on one end,  where there is a pipe to carry it from
that to two or three more; thus it is completely se-
cured from flying off in the vaporous state.  The
fire is now to be raised to a great heat,  sufficiently
powerful to convert the wood completely into char-
coal.   When the acid ceases to come over, the fire
is to be taken out, and the mass of wood left to cool
in the confined state, when it becomes perfect char-
coal.  In the first cask, tar is chiefly contained with
the acid, it precipitates to the bottom, and is drawn
off by a  cock;  it is afterwards boiled in an iron
boiler to evaporate the acid, before it is fit for use.
If the acid is not strong enough, it is put into large
square vats about six inches o^ep, for the purpose
of making a large  surface, to evaporate a part of
the water contained in the acid more speedily by a
slow heat.   These vats  are bedded on  sand upon
the top of a brick stove, where a gentle heat is ap-
plied; thus it may  be procured in a pretty strong
state.
  This acid, now well known in Britain as an arti-
cle of commerce, and in its native state is a liquid
of the colour of white wine, possesses a strong acid
and slightly astringent taste, combined with an em-
pyreumatic smell.   When allowed to remain in a
sfnte of rest for eight or ten days, tar of a black
colour subsides, and the acid is then comparatively
transparent.  To purify it further,  it undergoes
the process of distillation, by which it is freed from
a still greater portion of the tar,  Avith which it is
combined, and is thus  rendered still mrre trans-
parent.  But though the process of distillation  be
repeated without end, it  will never be freed from
the volatile oil  with  which it  is combined, and
which is the cause of  the  empyreuma constantly
attending it.  In short, it contains the same proper-
ties for the preservation  of  animal matters from
putrefaction as smoking them by wood does, which
is practised  at present by '.he most barbarous na-
tions, and which has been  handed down from the
remotest ages of antiquity.
  At a recent anniversary of the Whitehaven Philo-
sophical  Society,  two specimens of meat cured
with the pyroligneous acid were exhibited by one
of the members.   They were prepared on the 7th
of September, 1819.   One  had  been hung up at
home, and the other had been sent out by a vessel
to the West  Indies, to try the effect of climate upon
it, and brought back on the return of the  ship
to that port.  They were tasted by all present, and
pronounced  to be perfectly sweet, fresh and fit for
use, after a lapse of 15 months.
  Besides its antiseptic use, this acid is employed,
instead of acetate  of lead (sugar  of lead), by  the
calico printers, to  make their acetate of alumine,
or iron liquor.  Though it is not  sufficiently pure,
it does'well enough for blacks, browns, drabs, &c,
but for yellows or  reds it is not so good, owing to
the oil and tar which is  in combination with it.
         Note by the American Editor.
  Most grocers, dealers in hams, and  others  who
are particular in their meat, usually take the  pre-
caution to case each one after it is smoked iu  can- 
156
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 vas, for the purpose of defending it from the at-
 tacks of the little insect (the dermestes lardarius),
 which, by laying its eggs in it, soon fills it with its
 larva;, or maggots.  This troublesome and expen-
 sive process may be altogether superseded by the
 use ot the pyroligneous acid. With a painter's brush
 dipped in the liquid, one man, in the course ofa day,
 may effectually secure two hundred  hams from all
 danger.   Care should be taken to insinuate the li-
 quid into all the cracKS &e. of the under surface.
          7 b make strong acetous acid.
   Take of vitriol, calcined to whiteness, 1 lb. sugar
 of lead, 10 drachms.  Rub together and distil.
   Another.—Take of verdigris, 2 lbs.  Dry it in  a
 water-bath, then distil in a sand-heat, and re-distil
 the produce liquor.   Its  specific gravity is  about
 1,050.
   Another.—Take of sugar of lead, 7 lbs. oil of
 vitriol, 4$ lbs.   Distil 2J lbs.  This is used to make
 aromatic vinegar.
   The strength of distilled  acetous acids is exam-
 ined by Tailor's Revenue Acetometer, which con-
 sists in saturating a sample of the acid with slaked
 lime, and then  ascertaining the  specific quantity
 of the solution.  The best malt vinegar, No. 24,
 contains about five per cent, real acetous acid, and
 is taken as the standard or proof acid, 200 grains of
 which will saturate 29 grains of well crystallized
 subcurbonate of soda.  The best common distilled
 vinegar is about half this strength.  The pyrolig-
 neous acid may  be procured of any degree of con-
 centration, from  6 degrees, or 2,898 per cent, of
 acid, up to  130 deg.  or 6,309 per c.nt. of acid, or
 even higher.  Dr Powell  states, that a fluid ounce
 of the London  College distilled  vinegar ought to
 dissolve at least 13 grains of white marble, or 39 67
 grains of crystallized subcarbonate of soda, that is
 6 deg. of the Revenue Acetometer.   Acetic acid,
 containing 45 per cent, of real acid, dissolves cam-
phor and the essential oils very readily.
                  Acid of ants.
  Take of ants, 1 lb. boiling water, 4 lbs.  Infuse
for three  hours, press out the liquor, and strain.
This is an excellent stimulant, and is used as a lo-
 tion in impotency.
            Honey water for the hair.
  Take of  honey, 4 lbs. very dry  sand, 2 lbs.
 Mix and put into a vessel that will hold five times
as much; distil  with a gentle heat a yellowish acid
water: this acid greatly encourages the growth of
hair.
          Spirit of salt, or marine acid.
  Take of common  salt, 10 lbs. common clay, 20
lbs. water sufficient to make them into balls.  Dis-
til while moist,  with a violent heat, and rectify by
 re-distillation.
  Another method.—Take of dried common salt,
24 lbs. oil of vitriol, 20 lbs. water, 6 lbs.  Mix and
distil  into 12 lbs. more  of water, kept cool; when
 distilled in an iron pot with  a stone-ware head, all
 the water is put into  the receivers.  A bottle, that
 holds 6 oz. of water, ought  to  hold  7 oz.  of this
 acid, and an ounce measure of it should dissolve 3
drachms and 2 scruples of  limestone, which  will
 shew if it  is free from oil of vitriol.
             Strong spirit of nitre.
  Take of nitre 6 lbs. oil ot vitriol  4 lbs.  Distil
to dryness.  A  bottle, that  holds 4  oz. of water,
ought to hold 6 oz. of this acid, and an ounce  mea-
 sure of it, diluted wifh water, should dissolve 7
drachms of limestone.
  Another.—Take of nitre 1 lb. clay or brickdust,
4 lbs.  Mix and distil.
            Colourless spirit of nitre.
  'Take cf nitre, veiy pure,  and dried, oil of vitri-
ol, each 2 lbs.   Distil till red fumes appear; re-
distil from nitre, 1 oz.  This will produce 4 lbs.
               Double aqua-fortis.
   Take of spirit of nitre, 3 lbs. water 2 lbs.   Or,
 a sufficient quantity that a bottle holding 6 ounces
 of water shall hold 8 ounces of this acid.
   Another.—Take of green vitriol, calcined al-
 most to redness,  of nitre,  each equal  portions.
 Distil.
               Common aqua-fortis.
   Take of nitre, and green vitriol, not  calcined,
 each 6 lbs. green vitriol, calcined, 3 lbs.  Distil,
   Another.—Take of spirit of nitre, and distilled
 water, of each equal portions,  by weight.   A bot-
 tle that holds 6$ oz. of water should hold 8 oz. of
 this acid.
               Simple aqua-fortis.
   Take  of green vitriol 2 lbs. nitre, 1 lb.   Distil.
   Another.—Take of spirit of nitre, 2 lbs. water,
 3 lbs. or a sufficient quantity that a bottle holding
 4J oz. of water should hold 5 oz. of this acid.
   The  stronger kinds of this  acid are used  as, a
 causlic  for warts, &c. particularly by farriers, for
 Avhich the addition  of oil of vitriol is an advantage.
 The accidental  mixture  of spirit of salt, arising
 from impurities in the nitre, may be got rid of by
 dissolving refined sugar in some of the acid, pour-
 ing off the clear, and dropping it into the remain-
 der as long as any precipitate takes place.
                  Aqua regia.
   Take  of spirit of nitre, 16 oz. common salt, 4
 oz.  Dissolve.
   Another.—Take  of spirit of nitre, 16  oz. sal am-
 moniac,  4 oz.  Dissolve.
              Common aqua regia.
   Take of spirit of salt, 2 lbs. spirit of  nitre, 1 lb.
 This will dissolve gold.
         Dephlogisticated spirit of salt.
  Take  of common salt,  3 lbs. manganese, 1 lb
oil of vitriol, 2 lbs. water, 1 lb.  Distil, placing a
sufficient quantity of water in the receiver.
  This  spirit is of a  pale greenish  yellow,  and
scarcely  heavier than water.  It bleaches linen,
straw, and  takes out fruit spots,  iron moulds, or
ink marks.
      MISCELLANEOUS BEVERAGES.

              To make ginger beer.
  Take of good Jamaica ginger, 2^ oz. moist su-
gar, 3 lbs. cream of tartar, 1 oz. the juice and peel
of two middling sized lemons, brandy, £ pint, good
solid  ale yeast,  $ pint,  water,  3£  gallons.  This
will produce 4J  dozen of excellent ginger beer,
which will keep twelve months.  Bruise the gin-
ger and sugar, and boil them for 20 or 25 minutes
in the  water,  slice the lemon and  put it and the
cream of tartar into a  large pan; pour the boiling
liquor upon them,  stir it well  round,  and  when
milk Avarm, add the yeast; cover it  over, let it re-
main two or three days to work, skimming it fre-
quently; then strain it through a jelly-bag into a
cask,  add  the brandy, bung down very close, and
at the  end of a fortnight or three weeks, draw it
off  and bottle, and cork very tight;  tie the  cork
down Avith twine or wire.  If it does not Avork well
at first, add a little more yeast, but be careful of ad-
ding too much lest it taste of it.
                  Spruce beer.
  Take, if white is intended, 6 lbs.  of sugar; if
brown, as much treacle,  and a pot  of spruce, and
ten  gallons of water.
  This is also managed in the same way as ginger
beer,  except that it should be bottled as soon as it
has done working.
              Brown spruce beer.
  Pour 8 gallons of cold water  into a ban-el, and
then boiling 8 gallons more, put that in also; add 
DISTILLATION.
157
12 lbs. of molasses, with about $ lb. of the essence
of spruce; and on its getting a little cooler, $ a pint
of good ale yeast.   The  whole being well stirred
or rolled in the barrel, must be left with the bung
out for two or three days; after which the  liquor
may be immediately bottled, well  corked up, and
packed in saw-dust or sand, when it will be ripe,
and fit to drink in a fortnight.
  Remember that it should be drawn off into quart
stone bottles, and wired.
               White spruce beer.
  For a cask of 6 gallons, mix well together J lb.
of the purest essence of spruce, 7 lbs.  of loaf sugar
made into a clarified syrup, and about  1^ gallons
of hot water; and when sufficiently stirred and in-
corporated,  put it into the cask, and  fill up with
cold water.  Then add about £ of a pint of good
ale yeast, shake the cask well, and let it work for
3 or 4 days; after  which bung it up.  In a few days
it may be bottled  off after the usual manner,  and in
a week or -ten days itswill be fit  for use.   If, on
bunging it close, about $ of an oz. of isinglass, first
dissolved in a little of the warmed liquor, or in ci-
der, be stirred in, by way of fining, it will acquire
a superior degree of clearness.  In proportion to
the coldness of the weather, the quantity of yeast
should be increased.  Some, instead  of yeast, use
ale or beer-grounds the first time  of making, and
afterwards the grounds  of their former  spruce
beer.   In warm weather, very little ferment is re-
quisite.
                 Seltzer water.
  Take of water any quantity.   Impregnate it with
about ten times its volume of carbonic acid gas, by
means of a forcing pump.
               Liquid Magnesia.
  Take of water,  I gallon, carbonate of magnesia,
3 drachms, and impregnate it as above.
                 Potass water.
  Take one ounce of subcarbonate of potass, and
■impregnate  as above.
                  Soda water.
  Take 2 ounces  of subcarbonate of soda, and im-
pregnate as above.
              Portable lemonade.
  Take of tartaric acid,  ^ oz. loaf sugar 3 oz. es-
sence of lemon, ^ drachm.  Powder the tartaric
acid, and the sugar very fine, in a marble or wedge-
wood mortar, (observe never to  use a metal one)
mix them together, and pour the essence of lemon
upon them,  by a few  drops at a  time, stirring the
mixture after each addition, till the whole is added,
then mix them thoroughly, and divide it  into 12
equal parts, wrapping each up separately in a piece
of white paper.   When wanted for use, it  is only
necessary to dissolve it in a tumbler of cold water,
and fine lemonade will be obtained, containing the
flavour of the juice and peel of the lemon, and ready
sweetened.
         Nutritious dietetic composition.
  Pulverize equal quantities of sago  and  patent
cocoa; mix  them, and stir a table-spoonful in a
pint of milk, to which now add a pint of boiling
water.  Boil the   whole  for a few minutes, fre-
quently  stirring.   Sugar to be added according to
taste.  This breakfast, with bread and butter, &c.
he. suits children and adults.
               Sassafras cocoa.
  The fruit of the sassafras-tree is highly esteem-
ed in  many parts of South America, as a nutritious
article of diet.
  Its substance is the same as that of cocoa; and,
by means of heat, is convertible into chocolate; but
in this process, its aromatic quality is dissipateo1.
This nut, in a ground state, is employed  in the
same  manner as cocoa or  coffee, by boiling it in
water or milk: but, on account of its aromatic qua-
 lity being very volatile, it requires to be boiled in
 a pot with a close cover, and not for so long a time
 as is requisite for cocoa.   Its aromatic virtue ren-
 ders it very pleasant to  the palate, and  agreeable
 to the stomach; and, at the same time, possessing
 the well-known correcting properties of the sassa-
 fras root, and the nutritious virtues of cocoa, it be-
 comes a valuable article of diet to a great variety
 of invalids.  It has been fourd to recruit exhausted
 strength more rapidly than either cocoa, chocolate,
 or any farinaoeous substances, and to sit lighter on
 the stomach than either animal or vegetable jellies.
               To make chocolate.
   Roast the cocoa  in a frying  pan, placed on a
 clear fire; and having afterwards cleared them of
 the husks, the nuts must be first powdered coarse-
 ly,' and afterwards beaten in an iron mortar,  the
 bottom of which is  made  pretty hot, by placing it
 on the fire, till the whole runs into a thick kind of
 oil.  In this state  it must be  poured  into thin
 moulds of any size or shape that  is agreeable; and,
 when cold, the cakes may be taken out for use.
 The Spaniards mix with their cocoa nuts too great
 a quantity of cloves and  cinnamon, besides  other
 drugs without number,  as musk, ambergris, &c.
 The Parisians use few or none of these ingredients;
 they only choose the best nuts,  which are  called
 caracca, from the place from  whence  they  are
 brought; and  with these they mix  a very  small
 quantity of cinnamon, the freshest vanilla, and the
 finest sugar, but very seldom any cloves.  Choco-
 late, fresh from the mill, as it cools in the tin pans
 into  which it is received, becomes strongly electri-
 cal: and retains this property for  some ti..ie after it
 has been turned  out of the pans, but soon loses it
 by handling.  The power may be once or  twice
 renewed by melting it again in an iron  ladle, and
 pouring it into the lin pans as at first; but when it
 becomes d»y and powdery, the power is not  capa-
 ble of being revived by simple melting: but, if a
 small quantity of olive oil be added, and well mix-
 ed with the chocolate in the ladle, its electricity
 Will be completely restored by cooling it in the tin
 pan as before.
   Another method.—As the pleasantness of choco-
 late depends, in a great measure, on the method of
 preparing it for the table, it is necessary that  the
 strictest attention be paid to the following simple
 direction.  To make this chocolate, put the milk
| and water on to boil; then scrape the chocolate fine,
| from one to two squares to a pint, to suit the sto-
| mach; when the milk and water boils, take  it off
j the fire; throw in the chocolate; mill it well, and
 serve it up with the froth; which process will  not
 take 5  minutes.   The sugar mty either be put in
 with the scraped chocolate or added afterwards.  It
 should never be  made before it is wanted; because
 heating again injures  the  flavour,  destroys  die
 froth, and separates the body of the chocolate;  the
 oil of the  nut being observed, after a few mi"utes'
 boiling, or even  standing long by the fire, to rise
 to the top, which is the only cause why this ch.)co-
| late can offend the most delicate  stomach.
j               To make native tea.
I   The infusion of good well-made meadow hay in
 boiling  water, in the manner of tea, about  three
 quarters of an ounce for  two or three persons, is a
 beverage for the fasting and evening refection, as
 much superior to the dried leaves of China,  as
 gold  or silver are superior to copper and lead.
   This native tea is as healthful as it is grateful  to
 the palate; it is saccharine and aromatic, instead of
 bitter and empyreumatic; it  is stimulating to the
 spirits  in  .the morning,  and  composing to the
 nerves at night; it is anti-bilious, and acts with a
 mild, but sensible effect, at first,  on  all the secre-
 tions, promotes digestion, and creates appetite. 
158
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
                Substitute for tea.
   In consequence  of  the  injurious effects on the
 stomach  and  nervous system, produced  by the
 leaves  of the  oriental shrub  imported into  this
 country,  under the name of tea, mixtures of Bri-
 tish herbs have been recommended as a substitute
 for tea and coffee for breakfast, and an evening re-
 past.   An infusion of the following composition,
 lately recommended by an eminent physician of
 Edinburgh, has since been found more pleasant to
 the  palate, and more  salubrious as an  article of
 diet, than either of the compositions of herbs.  It
 is an excellent  nervous stomachic, and in cases of
 indigestion,  or what  is termed  " bilious  affec-
 tions" arising either from debility or nervous ir-
 ritability, it has proved highly  beneficial after sto-
 machic bitters had entirely failed.  It has, like-
 wise, this important advantage over tonic medi-
 cines, and foreign tea and coffee, that its long con-
 tinued use will not injure the stomach; but, on the
 contrary, by keeping up healthy digestion, and by
 quieting the nerves, is likely to prevent the orga-
 nic diseases of the stomach, which of  late  years
 have apparently increased in Europe.
   Take of the heels of unfolded petals of the red-
 rose, dried, 5  parts, rosemary leaves, do.  1  do.
 balm leaves, do. 2 do.   Mix.
   A dessert spoonful of this composition is sufficient
 for half a  pint of infusion.  It is made in the same
 manner as tea,  with sugar and cream,  or milk.  It
 is sold at  2s. and 9c/. a  pound,—one pound will go
 as far as two pounds of tea.
   Another.—In Germany the leaves of strawberry
 flowers are substituted  for green tea.   The follow-
 ing are  the directions  for  preparing  them.   The
 leaves with the flowers are  to  be gathered  in  the
 spring,  while they are young, and only the smooth-
 est and  cleanest leaves  selected, as they are not to
 be washed.  They must be dried in  the air,  but
 not in the sun, as  drying them in the sun would
 lessen their flavour.  To these leaves the Germans
 give the appearance of China tea, oy first pinching
 their stalks clean off,   then warming the  leaves
 over the fire, rolling them up  in the hand while
 they remain flexible, and drying them thus rolled.
 When the leaves are thoroughly dried, the'tea is
 fitfor use, and on being made exactly in the  same
 manner as China green tea, it is hardly possible to
 discover the  difference. The  young and tender
 leaves of the sloe tree or black  thorn,  when dried,
 afford a good substitute  for  foreign tea.
        Substitute for coffee, cocoa, &c.
  The ground sassafras nut is an excellent substi-
 tute  for coffee,  cocoa, &c. for breakfast and sup-
 per.   It is not  onl" nutritious,  but a  more effica-
 cious corrector  of the habit, in  cases of eruptions
 of the skin and  scrofula, than the  sassafras wood,
 or the compound decoction of sarsaparilla.   As a
 powerful  preventive of cutaneous  affections, it is
 particularly valuable.   It is also an excellent arti-
 cle of diet for rheumatic, gouty, and asthmatic in-
 valids.
  Another.—In America the leaves of the herb,
 commonly called  labradore (ledum lilifolia) are
generally  used  for breakfast, instead  of the Chi-
nese tea.  It is  a grateful aromatic bitter, and is
highly salutary  and invigorating.  It  might easily
be cultivated  in this country, and  would flourish
best in poor light soils.  ,
      Other substitutes for tea  and coffee.
  The ill  effects of  drinking much tea and coffee
are numerous: they  relax the nervous  system, and
are some of the causes which occasion the palsy.
Coffee is made of the roasted  berries of a  foreign
plant, of an astringent quality.    Tea is made of the
leaves of an exotic plant,  of a relaxing quality.
Coffee anil tea  have a pleasant taste, when mixed
 with sugar and milk; and, used in moderation, are
 harmless  to  those who have  plenty of cream  or
 newmilkto mix with them. Tea is now the universal
 breakfast in England; but poor people can  only af-
 ford to buy the worst  sort, which is frequeiitly
 adulterated.  That tea  affects  the  nerves,  is evi-
 dent from its  preventing sleep,- occasioning giddi-
 ness and dimness of sight; it  is bad  for  persons
 troubled with wind or bile.
   The raspings of bread will make equally as good
 a breakfast as Mr Hunt's powder, and is perfectly
 wholesome.   Any person may make this substitute
 for coffee or tea, without being subjected to a fine,
 as no  law can  be  made to prevent people from
 using  their bread in any forin they please.  All
 well-baked bread has  a  hard  crust, mostly of a
 scorched dark colour:—with a  bread rasp  or gra-
 ter, rub the crust oft', which will then appear nearly
 like ground coffee.   Three or four table spoonsful
 of this powder are sufficient when mixed with su-
 gar and a little milk, if it can  be had, to  make a
 liquid  for breakfast for one person.   Put the bread
 powder into water, let  it boil a few minutes, and
 it will be fit for use.
   Milk  and water and a little sugar are more
 wholesome for breakfast, than tea or coffee. Take
 one-fourth part ofa pint of milk, and  mix it with
 three quarters ofa pint of water, add as much su-
 gar as will make it as sweet as milk,  boil it, and
 pour it into a  basin upon some bread cut small. To
 make herb tea, take dried balm, mint, and agri-
 mony, in equal quantities,  with a  little sage and
 rosemary,  if they can be got; cut them small, and
 use them in the same manner as tea.  Water gruel
 is more nourishing and  wholesome than  tea or
 coffee.
  Another.—Beech mast, or the beech  tree, which
 is an oily farinaceous nut, and was used in  diet, in
 an early age, may be used  as a substitute for cof-
 fee when roasted.  Well dried, it makes a whole-
 some  bread, and, in this condition, it has  served
 for subsistence  in  .times  of scarcity;  it is now,
 however, used only for fattening hogs, poultry, &c.
  A great quantity  of oil may  be separated from
 the beech  mast,  by expression.  In France it is
 procured in large quantities, and used at table, in-
 stead of olive oil.  It possesses an advantage which
 the latter has not, of keeping a long time without
 turning rancid.             '
  Another.—Roast any quantity of horse beans iit
 a clean frying  pan, over a clear  fire till they begin
 to darken in colour, and then from the point of a
 knife, continue putting small bits of honey among
 them, stirring them all the while till they become
 ofa deep chesnut brown.  On taking them off the
 fire, to a quart of beans immediately put an ounce
 of cassia-buds  into the pan, and stir them about till
 they get cool.   After being ground  in the manner
 of coffee, few persons will detect the difference.
  Rye torrefied with a few almonds, which  furnish
the necessary  proportion of oil, may also be em-
 ployed as a substitute for coffee.   Wheat may be
 substituted for beans.
  Another.—The yellow beet root, when sliced and
 dried  in  a  kiln,  and especially if ground  with  a
 small  quantity of Turkey or West India  coffee,
 will furnish an excellent substitute for  either.  P
requires much less sugar than foreign  coffee, and
 is  somewhat stronger.   Those  who cultivate  it
 should not strip the plant of its leaves for feeding
cattle,  as is generally practised, for this will injure
the growth of the plant, and materially alter the
qualities of the juice.
              To make acorn coffee.
  A pleasant beverage is drank in Germany, called
 the acorn coffee, and is made as follows;
  Take sound ripe acorns, peel off the shell oi 
DISTILLATION.
159
 husk, divide the kernels, dry them gradually, and
 then roast them in a close vessel, or roaster, keep-
 ing them continually stirring.  Care must be taken
 not to burn or roast them too much. Take of these
 roasted  accrns,  ground like other coffee, half an
 ounce alone, or  mixed with a drachm of other cof-
 fee, and sweeten with sugar, with  or without milk.
   Acorns have always been esteemed a wholesome
 ■md  strengthening nutriment for man, and their
 medicinal qualities  have been found to  cure the
 slimy obstructions of the viscera, and to remove
 nervous complaints,  when  other  medicines  have
 failed—for though acorns are looked upon to be so
 great an astringent as to be sparingly used, either
 externally or internally, by being roasted, they
 lose  their astringent quality, and hence  have no
 more that effect than coffee.  This coffee is  also
 particularly  efficacious  with respect to  women
 Avhose complaints arise from disorders peculiar to
 their sex.
   Another method.—As the acorn is deficient of
 the oleaginous principles inherent to coffee,  this
 may be remedied  by the following process, and the
 fruit of the oak  may be then recommended.   Let
 the acorns be toasted brown, then add fresh butter,
 in  small pieces to them, while hot, in the ladle.
 Stir thein  with care, or cover the  ladle  and shake
 it,  that the whole may be well mixed.
                 To make coffee.
  The best coffee  is imported from Mocha.  It is
 said to owe much of its superior quality to being
 kept long; attention to the following circumstances
 is likewise necessary.   1. The plant  should be
 grown in a dry situation and climate.  2. The ber-
 ries ought to  be thoroughly ripe  before  they are
 gathered.  3. They ought to be well dried in the
 sun; and 4. Kept at a distance from any  substance,
 'as spirits, spices, dried fish, &c.) by which  the
 Uiste and flavour of the berry may  be injured.
  To drink coffee in perfection, it should  be made
 from the best Mocha berries, carefully roasted, and
 after cooling for a few minutes, reduced to  powder,
 *nd immediately infused; the tincture will then be
 of  a superior description.  But for common use,
 the coffee of our own plantations is, in general, of
 very good  quality, and the following mode of pre-
 paring it may be adopted.
  1. The berries should be carefully roasted, by a
 gradual application of heat, scorching,but notburn-
 mg them.
  2. Grinding the  coffee has been found preferable
 to pounding, because the latter process  is thought
 to press out, and leave on the sides of the mortar,
 some of the richer oily substances, which  are  not
 lost by grinding.
  3.  A filtrating tin, or silver pot, with  double
 sides, between which hot water must be poured, to
 prevent  the  coffee from cooling,  as practised in
 Germany,  is the best machine to be used.  Simple
 infusion in this  implement,  with boiling water, is
 ill  that is required to make a cup of  good coffee;
 and the use of isinglass, the white, of eggs, &c. to
 fine the liquor  is quite unnecessary.    By  this
 means, also,  coffee is made quicker than tea.
  In  England, too little powder  of the berry is
 commonly given.  It requires about one small  cup
 of coffee-powder to make four cups of tincture  for
 the table.  This is at the rate of an ounce of good
 powder to four common coffee cups.   When  the
 powder is put in the bag, as many  cups of boiling
 water are poured over it as may be wanted, and if
 the quantity wanted is very small,  so that  after it
 is filtrated  it  decs  not reach the lower end of the
 bag, the liquor must be  poured  back three or four
times, till it has  acquired the necessary strength.
  By following these  plain directions, it is to be
hoped that a wholesome and valuable production
  of our own  colonies will come into more general
  use; and that foreigners will no longer have anv
  ground to assert, that thev very rarely meet with a
  cup of tolerable coffee in England.
   Another method.— Pour a pint of boiling Avater
  on  an ounce of coffee; let it boil five or six minutes,
  then pour out a cupful two or three times, and re-
  turn it again; put two or three isinglass chips into
  it,  or a lump or two of fii.e sugar;  boil  it five mi-
  nutes longer, set the pot by the fire to keep hot
  for ten minutes, and the coffee will be  beautifully
  clear.   Some like a small bit of vanilla.  Cream
  should  always be served with coflee, and either
  pounded sugar candy, or fine  Lisbon sugar.  For
  foreigners, or those who like it extremely strong,
  make only eight dishes from three ounces.  If not
  fresh roasted, lay it before a fire till hot and dry;
  or put the smallest bit of fresh butler  into a pre-
  serving pan, when hot throw the coffee into it, and
  toss it about till it be freshened.
   Coffee most certainly promotes watchfulness; or,
  in other words, it suspends the inclination to sleep.
  To those, therefore, who wish not to be subject to
  this inclination, coffee is undoubtedly preferable to
  wine, after dinner, or perhaps to any other liquor.
   Were coffee substituted instead of wine imme-
  diately after dinner, it seems more than probable
  that many advantages would flow from  it,  both  to
  the health of individuals and general economy; and
  it seems not improbable that by deferring coffee,
  or tea, so late as is usually practised, we interrupt
  digestion, and add a new load of matter to that id-
  ready in the stomach, which, after a full meal, is
  not a matter of indifference.
   Persons afflicted with asthma have found  greaf
  relief and  even a cure, by drinking very strong
  coffee, and  those of a phlegmatic habit would do
  well to take it for breakfast.  It is rather ofa dry-
  ing nature, and with corpulent habitfs it would also
  be advisable to take it for breakfast.
        Arabian method of preparing coffee.
   The Arabians, when  they take their coffee  off
  the fire, immediately  Avrap the vessel in  a wet
  cloth, Avhich fines the liquor  instantly, makes it
  cream  at  the top,  and occasions a more pungent
  steam, which they take great pleasure in snuffing
  up  as the coffee is  pouring into the cups.  They,
  like all other nations of the East, drink  their coffee
  without sugar.
   People of the first fashion use nothing but Sulta-
  na coffee, whioh is prepared in the following man-
  ner.  Bruise the outward husk or dried pulp, and
  put it into an iron  or earthen pan, which is placed
  upon a charcoal fire;  then keep stirring it to and
  fro, until it becomes a little brown, but not  of  so
  deep a colour as common coffee; then throw it into
  boiling water, adding at least the fourth part of the
  inward  husks, which  is then boiled altogether  in
  the manner  of other coffee.  The  husks must be
  kept in a very dry  place, and packed up very close,
  for  the least humidity spoils the flavour.   The li-
  quor prepared in this manner is esteemed prefera-
  ble to any other.  The French, Avhen they were at
  the court of the king of Yemen, saw no  other cof-
  fee  drank, and they found the flavour of it very de-
  licate and agreeable; there was no occasion to use
  sugar, as it had no  bitter taste to correct.
   In all probability the Sultana coffee can only be
  made where the tree grows; for as the husks have
  littl. substance, if  they are too much  dried, in or-
■  der to send them to other countries, the agreeable
 flavour they  had when fresh, is greatly impaired.
         Improvement in making coflee.
   The process consists in simmering over a small
 but  steady flame of a lamp.  To accomplish this, a
 vessel of peculiar construction is requisite: it should
 be a straight-sided  pot, as wide at top a* at bottom, 
60
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
and inclosed in a case of similar shape;  to which
it must be soldered air tight at the top.  The case
to  be above an  inch wider than the pot, and de-
scending somewhat less than an inch below it.  It
should be entirely open at the bottom, thus admit-
ting and confining a body of hot air round and un-
derneath the pot.   The lid to be double, and the
vessel, of course, furnished with a convenient han-
dle and spout.
   The extract may be made, either with hot Avater
or cold.   If wanted for  speedy use, hot water, not
actually boiling, will be proper, and the powdered
coffee  being added, close the lid  tight, stop the
spout with a cork,  and  place  the vessel  over the
lamp.  It will soon begin to simmer, and may re-
main unattended, till the coffee is wanted. It may
then be strained through a bag of, stout,  close li-
nen, which  will transmit the  liquid so perfectly
clear as not to contain the smallest particle  of the
powder.
  Though a fountain lamp is preferable, any of
the common small lamps, seen in every tin shop,
will answer the  purpose.  Pure spermaceti oil is
required,  and  if the wick be too high, or the oil
not  good, the consequence will be smoke,  soot,
and extinction.  The wick should be little more
than one eighth of an inch high.   In this process,
no trimming or other attention is required. It may
be left to simmer, and will continue simmering all
night, without boiling over, and without  any sen-
sible diminution of quantity.
       Parisian method of making coffee.
  In the first place, let the coffee be of prime quali-
ty,—grain, small, round, hard  and clear; perfectly
dry and sweet;  and  at least three years old—let it
be gently roasted until  it be of a light brown co-
lour; avoid  burning, for a  single scorched grain
will spoil  a pound.  Let this operation be perform-
ed  at the moment the coffee is to be used; then
grind it while it is yet warm, and take of the pow-
der an ounce for each cup intended  to be  made;
put this along  with a small quantity of shredded
saffron into the upper part of the  machine,  called
agrecque; that is, a large coffee pot with an upper
receptacle made to fit close into it, the bottom of
which is perforated  with small holes, and contain-
ing in its  interior two  moveable metal  strainers,
over the second of which the powder is U> be plac-
ed, and immediately under the third; upon this up-
per strainer, pour boiling water and continue doing
so gently until it bubbles up through the  strainer;
then shut the cover of the machine close down,
place it near the fire, and so soon as the water has
drained through the coffee, repeat the  operation
unt 1  the  whole intended quantity be  passed.—
Thus all  the fragrance of its perfume will be re-
tained, with all the balsamic and stimulating pow-
ers of its  essence; and in a few moments will be
obtained—without the aid of hartshorn  shavings,
isinglass, whites of eggs, or any of the trash with
which, in the common mode of preparation,  it is
mixed—a beverage for the gods. This is the true
Parisian  mode of preparing coffee; the  invention
of it is due to M. de Belloy, nephew to the Cardi-
nal of the same name.
    ,,             Coffee milk.
  Boil a dessert spoonful of ground coffee in about
a  pint of milk, a quarter of an  hour; then put into
it a shaving or two of isinglass, and clear it;  let it
boil a few minutes,  and set it on the side o ,the
fire to fine.  This  is a very  fine  breakfast,  and
should he sweetened with real Lisbon sugar.
  Those of a spare habit, and disposed towards af-
fections of the lungs, would do well to make this
their breakfast.
                To make mum.
  Mum is a  kind of malt liquor, much drunk in
Germany and formerly in England. " The name
commonly occurs iu the statutes relating to excise-
able liquors.
  Take 63 gallons of water that  has been boiled
into a third part, brew it with seven bushels of
wheatened malt, one  bushel of oat malt, and  one
bushel of ground beans; when it has worked or
fermented awhile in a hogshead not too full,  put
into it of inner rind of fir, 3 lbs., tops of  fir  and
birch, 1 lb., carduus benedictus, 3 handsful, flow-
ers from solis, a hand  or two; burnet, betony mar-
joram, pennyroyal, wild thyme, of each a handful;
of elder flowers, two handsful, seeds of cardamom,
bruised, 30 ounces; barberries, bruised, 1 ounce.
  When the liquor has done working, fill it  up,
and at last, put into the hogshead 10 new laid eggs;
stop it up  close, and in two years it will  be fit foi
use.
MUCILA*GINOUS OILS.
           To make oil of sweet almonds.
   It is usually made from bitter almonds for cheap
 ness, or from old Jordan almonds by heat, the oil
 from which soon grows rank, while that from fresh
 Barbary almonds, drawn cold, will keep good for
 some time.  The almonds are  sometimes blanched
 by dipping in boiling water  or  by soaking some
 hours in cold water, so  as  to  part with  their skin
 easily; but are  more usually  ground to a paste,
 which  is put into canvas bags, and pressed between
 iron plates, in  a screw press, or by means  of" a
 wedge; 1 cwt. of bitter almonds  unbianched,  pro-
 duces 46 lbs.  of oil; the  cake pays for pressing.
                     Nut oil
   Is obtained from the kernel of the hazel nut, and
 is very fine; it is substituted for oil of  ban;  as it
 will keep better  than  that of almonds, it has  been
 proposed to be substituted for  that oil; it is drank
 with tea, in China, probably in lieu of cream, and
 is used by painters, as a superior vehicle for their
 colours.
                   Oil of mace
   Is obtained from nutmegs by the press; it is but-
 tery, having  the smell  and colour of mace, but
 grows  paler and  harder by  age; 2 lbs. of nutmegs
 in Europe will yield 6 oz. of this oil.
         True oil of mace by expression.
   This oil  is red, remains always liquid, or  soft,
 has a strong smell of  mace, sub-acid taste, and  is
 imported in jars or bottles, the  lower part being
 rather  thicker than  the top; 1$ lbs. of mace  will,
 yield in Europe  an ounce and a half, troy, of  oil.
             Olive, salad, or sweet oil.
   This is the most agreeable of all the  oils;  it  is
 demulcent, emollient, gently laxative, and is also
 used as an emetic with warm water; dose, 1 oz.
 troy, or a large  spoonful:  also  externally, when
 warm,  to the  bites  of serpents, and when cold, to
 tumours and dropsies.   Rank  oil is best for plas-
 ters: but fresh oil makes the best hard soap.
                    Castor oil.
   This is either  imported from  the West Indies,
 where  it is obtained  by decoction with water,  10
 lbs. of  seeds yielding 1 lb. of oil; or from the  East
 Indies, where it  is obtained by grinding in a mor-
 tar, with a hole in the side for the supernatant oil to
 run oft', being in common use there for lamp oil. Or,
 that made at home by the press, which is the  best,
 especially some that is prepared from cold blanch-
I ed seeds, with the eye taken out.  Some chemists
 are said to take out the colour from the foreign oils,
 by certain additions, and sell them for English, or,
 as it is called, cold drawn castor  oil.  The virosity
 communicated to the oil by the  eyes of the seeds
 may be got rid of by washing the oil  with boiling 
DISTILLATION.
161
 water, or with weak oil of vitriol.  It is soluble in
 warm spirit of wine, and its adulteration may thus
 be discovered, if thought necessary; but as all the
 fat  oils have nearly similar qualities, the taste is
 sufficient for practical purposes. It is purgative in
 doses of from t-2 an oz. to 1  1-2 oz.  floated on
 some distilled water, or on  wine; or if it does not
 usually stay well on the stomach, on some tincture
 of senna; or made into an emulsion with yolk of
 egg, and a  little distilled water, with 20 drops of
 lavender, and a tea-spoonful of simple  syrup; it
 may also be used in clysters. It  is particularly use-
 ful where a stimulant would be hurtful;  as it ope-
 rates quickly without disturbing the system; also
 externally in swelling pains. Contrary to most me-
 dicines, on  frequent  repetition a less dose is suffi-
 cient.
                   Oil ofcroton.
   This oil  is extracted from Molucca  grains, or
 purging nuts.  In  its chemical  qualities  it agrees
 with castor oil, but is considerably more active, as
 a single drop, when the oil is genuine, is a power-
 ful cathartic.
                    Rape oil.
   This is made from rape  seed; it dries slowly,
 makes but a softish soap, fit for ointments: the mu-
 cilage it contains may be got rid of, in a great mea-
 sure, by adding half an ounce of oil of vitriol to
 two pints of the oil.
                To purify rape oil.
   The following is a simple method of rendering j
 rape oil  equal to spermaceti oil, for the  purposes
 of illumination.
   Begin by washing the oil Avith  spring water:
 which is effected by agitating the oil violently with
 a  sixth part of the water.   This separates the par-
 ticles of the oil, and mixes those of the water inti-
 mately with them.   After this operation, it looks
 like the yolk of eggs beat up.  In less than forty-
 eight hours they separate completely, the oil swim-
 ming at  the top, the water, with all  feculent and
 extraneous particles, subsiding to the bottom.  This
 may be very much improved, by substituting sea-
 water in the place of fresh water.
   By the process of washing, the oil does not lose
 a  hundredth part.   The experiment can at all
 limes  be made in a glass decanter, or in a churn,
 with  a cock at the bottom, the water to  come up
 veiy near to the  cock, by which all the oil can be
 drawn off, after it has deposited  its impurities.
   Another method.—To 100  parts of oil add l£ or
 2 of concentrated sulphuric acid,  and mix the whole
 well by agitation, when the oil will become turbid,
 and  of a blackish-green  colour.  In about three
 quarters of  an hour, the colouring matter will be-
 gin to collect in clots; the agitation should then be
 discontinued, and clean water, twice the weight of
 the sulphuric acid, be added.  To  mix  the water
 with the oil  and acid, a further agitation of half an
 hour will be requisite.  The mass may, afterwards,
 be left to clarify for eight days, at the end of
 which time  three separate fluids will be perceived
 in the vessel; the upper is the clear oil, the next is
 the sulphuric acid and  water, and  the  lowest, a
 black mud or fecula.  Let the oil then be separat-
 ed by a syphon  from the acid and  water, and fil-
 trated  through cotton or  wool; it will he nearly
 without  colour,  smell,  or  taste, and will  burn
 clearly and quietly to the last drop.
             To purify vegetable oil.
   To 100 pounds of oil, add 25 ounces of roche
alum, and mix, dissolved in 9 pounds of boiling
water.  After stirring it about half an hour, add 15
ounces of nitric  acid, still  continuing to stir it.
Let it stand forty-eight hours, when the fine oil will
swim on the surface, and then draw it off.  Such
oil is used  all over the contineut,  and an equal
       v
quantity yields double the light of whale and fish
oil, without its offensive odour.
              To make pumpkin oil.
  From the seeds of the pumpkin, which are gene-
rally thrown  away, an abundance of an excellent
oil  may be extracted.  When peeled, they yield
much more oil than an equal quantity of flax. This
oil  burns well, gives a lively light, lasts longer
than other oils, and emits very little smoke.  It
has been used on the continent for frying fish,  &c.
The cake remaining after  the extraction of the oil
may be given to cattle, who eat it with avidity.
                 Beech nut oil.
  Beech nuts are not only an excellent food for
pigs, but they are known to yield an oil, fit for com-
mon purposes, by the usual methods of extraction.
        To extract oil from grape stones.
  In Italy an useful oil is drawn from the grape
stones.  In order to separate  the seeds from the
husks and refuse matter, the mash is put into a
bucket  with  some water,  and  worked about with
the hands, until the  seeds, from their  superior
weight, have fallen  to the bottom  of the  vessel.
They are then to be removed and dried in the sun,
or by any other way, as soon as possible; when a
sufficient quantity is collected, the whole is to be
ground  in the same kind  of mill that is used for
hemp and oole-seed: being then cold drawn, a  fine
oil  is procured, which is  scarcely distinguishable
from common olive oil.  The refuse matter, being
scalded in a little hot water, yields a fresh portion
of oil, though of an inferior quality, which burns
excellently well in a lamp, giving out no  unplea-
sant odour, and very little smoke.   By taking  the
loppings or primings of the vine, excellent vinegar
may be  made from the same, and even wine with
the aid of sugar.
         ANIMAL OILS  AND FATS.

                  Hog's lard.
  This is obtained like the rest of the animal tats
from  the raw lard, by chopping it fine, or rather
rolling it out to break the cells in which the fat is
lodged, and then melting the fat in  a water bath,
or other  gentle heat, and straining it whifo warm;
some  boil them in water; but the tats, thus obtain
ed, are apt to grow rank much sooner than when
melted by themselves.
            Neat's feet or trotter oil.
  Obtained by boil.ng neat's feet, tripe, 8tc.  in
water; it is a coarse animal oil, very emollient, and
much used to soften leather.
              'To purify trotter oil.
  Put 1 quart of trotter oil into a vessel containing
a quart of rose-water, and set them over a fire till
the oil melts and mixes with the rosewater.  Stir
well Avith  a spoon.  When properly combined,
take the  vessel from the fire, and let  it cool. Now
take off the oil with a spoon, and add rose-water,
as before.   When the oil is again separated and
cleansed, set it in a cool place.  The principal use
of trotter oil is  for the making of cold cream,  in
which its qualities exceed those of every other oil.
       'Jo prepare oil from yolks of eggs.
  Boil the  eggs hard, and  after  separating the
whites break the yolks into  two or three pieces,
and roast them in a frying pan till the oil begins to
exude; then press them with  very great force.
Fifty  eggs yield  about 5 ounces of oil.  Old eggs
yield  the greatest quantity.
  Another  method.—Dilute  the raw  yolks with a
large  proportion of water, and add spirit of wine
to separate the albumen, when the  oil will rise on
the top after standing some time, and thus may be
separated Ly a funnel. 
162
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
              To refine spermaceti.
  Spermaceti  is usually brought home in  casks;
and, in some cases, has so little oil mixed with it
as to obtain the denomination of head matter.   It
is of the consistence of a  stiff ointment, of a yel-
lowish colour, and  not tenacious.  Besides the
head matter, there is also a quantity of sperm ob-
tained from the oil  by filtration.  Indeed, in  all
good spermaceti lamp oil, which is not transparent,
particles of the sperm may be seen floating.
  Having  the  head-matter, or filtered sperm,  in
order to purify it, first put it into hair cloths,  and
with an iron (date between each cloth, to the num-
ber of half a dozen, or more, submit it to the ac-
tion of an iron screw-press; and, as the  oil does
not separate very readily, it will, in general, be ne-
cessary to let the cakes of sperm be pressed three
different times.  The third time the cakes will be-
come so  dry that they may be  broken  in small
pieces with little trouble, and then put in a furnace
containing 1-3(1 water, and -2-3ds cake.  Let the
fire be raised sufficiently under the furnace to melt
the cake,  which it will do before the water begins
to boil: afier which, boil the whole together  for
about half an hour, taking off, during the boiling,
what scum and other extraneous  bodies rise to the
top; then let the whjle be dipped out into a tub, or
nther coolers.   After it is completely cold, take off
me cake of spermaceti, which will be on the top of
the water/and cut it into pieces.    Suppose, for ex-
ample, that the cake weighs one hundred weight,
it will be necessary to have a furnace,  or rather a
mo\eable kettle, where the light  is thrown in such
a way that the process can be observed.   Having
taken one  hundred weight of the unrefined sper-
maceti, prepared  as  above, melt  it together with
about 3 gallons of water.   As soon as  it begins  to
boil, add,  from time to t'ime, small portions of the
following  liquor,  say half a pint at a time:—Take
of the alkaline salt, or pot-ash, 7 pounds.  Pour on
it 2 gallons of  water; let them stand together twen-
ty-four hours, and  from the top dip off the ley as
wanted, adding more water occasionally till the al-
kali is exhausted.  After boiling the  spermaceti
for about four  hours, having during the process ta-
ken off the scum as it arose, let  the kettle be  re-
moved from the  fire, and after remaining about a
quarter  of an  hour, dip off the  spermaceti  into
suitable coolers.   This process  must,  in general,
be repeated  three times.  The third  fime, if  the
processes  have been properly conducted, the sper-
maceti will be as clear as cry  al; and then, after it
is cool, the only thing  necessary to make it fit for
sale,  is to cut it into moderately small pieces,
when it  will  break into that  flakey appearance
which it has in the shops.
To sweeten, purify,  and refine  Greenland whale
                  and seal oil.
  The oil, in its raw state, is filtered through bags,
about 41  inches  long, with circular mouths,  ex-
tended by a  wooden  hoop, about 15 inches in dia-
meter, fixed thereto.   These bags are made of jean,
lined with flannel; between which jean and  flannel
powdered charcoal is placed, throughout, to a re-
gular thickness of about half an inch, tor the purpose
of retaining the glutinous particles of the oil, and
straining  it  from impurities; and the  hags  are
quilted, to prevent the charcoal from  becoming
thicker in one part than another, and  to  keep the
linings more compact.  The oil is pumped into a
large funnel,  made  of tin, annexed to the pump
through a perpendicular pipe, and passed from the
funnel into another pipe placed over the bags hori-
zontally, from whence it is introduced into them
by  cocks.  The oil runs from the filtering hags in-
to a cistern, about 8  feet long by 4 feet broad, and
4£ deep, made of wood, and  lined with  lead, and
 containing water at the bottom, about the depth of
 5 or 6 inches, in which are dissolved about 6 ounces
 of blue vitriol, for the purpose of draAving down
 the  glutinous and offensive particles of the oil,
 which have  escaped  through  the charcoal,  and
 thereby rendering it clean and free from the  un-
 pleasant smell attendant upon the oil in the  iaw
 state; and, in order  to enable the oil thus to run
 from the  bags, they are hung in a frame or rack,
 made like a ladder, with the spokes or rails at suf-
 ficient distances to receive the hoop of the bag be-
 tween two; and  such frame  or rack is  placed  in a
 horizontal position  over the cistern.   The oil is
 suffered to run into  the cistern  until it stands to
 the depth of about 2 feet in the water, and thereto
 remain for 3 or 4 days, (according to the quality of
 the oil), and is then drawn  off by a cock, which is
 fixed in the cistern a little above the water, into a
 tub or other vessel, when it will  be  found to be
 considerably purified and refined, and the oil, after
 having undergone this operation, may be rendered
 still more pure, by  passing a second or third time
 through similar bags and cisterns.  But the oil, af-
 ter such second and third process, is drawn off into,
 and   filtered through, additional  bags,  made of
 jean, lined with  flannel,  inclosed in other bags,
 made of jean, doubled, Avhen  the process is com-
 plete.
 To purify fish oils,  and apply the refuse to usefui
                    purposes.
  The object  of this invention is the refining not
 only  of fish-oil, but of the  oils obtained from all
 animal substances, and also from expressed vege-
 tables.  The mode of performing this is by mixing
 the oil with an infusion of tannin.   Mr Speers, of
 Dublin, recommends the  tannin  of oak-bark, but
 any  tannin, whether  natural  from oak or other
 barks, or artificial, will answer the purpose.  The
 mode which he prefers is the following: Take equal
 quantities of oil and soft water; in the water infuse
 and  agitate for a day or two about one-tenth part of
 its weight of tannin; it is then  to be drawn off tine,
 and  the oil and  water to be mixed and boiled for
 some time, and then set  by to cool.   The tannin
 will, by means of chemical attraction, unite with
 the gelatine or mucilage, and, being heavier than
 oil, will sink below it; but being lighter than watel
 it will swim above it; in  other words, this refuse
 matter will  he found between the oil and the water.
 The  oil is first to be drawn off and then the refuse
 matter may be obtained.   This matter may be ap-
 plied to the formation of cements and stucco; or to
 the composition of paints and varnishes; or to the
 composition of an excellent blacking  for leather,
 which will by that means be made water-proof.
   Another method.—A method of purifying  com-
 mon fish-oil, and rendering  it  equal  to the  best
 sperm oil, by the use of animal charcoal, has late-
 ly been discovered in  Denmark.  The description
j is very incomplete,  but mentions that  beef bones,
 which have been boiled, are made into animal char-
' coal  in a peculiar way. The charcoal is mixed with
! the  oil, and repeatedly agitated for  two months,
; after which it is filtered through several strata of
 charcoal, and used as soon  as made. The quantity
 of gas evolved by the bones in the operation is con-
| siderable, and is used for lighting the manufactory
; and adjacent buildings.   The residuum is mixed
 with clay for fuel.  The  loss  in this process is es-
 timated at 15 per cent, and the gain is equal to 40
 per cent., leaving a balance in  favour of the dis-
 covery of 25 per cent.
   The peculiar method  of making the charcoal,
 probablv consists in not heat'ng the bones too much.
 It is well known by the animal charcoal makers in
 London, that if the temperature be raised too high,
 the charcoal is worth  nothing. 
  Another.—Take a gallon of crude stinking oil,
 nd mix with it a quarter ot an ounce of powdered
'balk, a quarter of an ounce of lime, slaked in the
air, aril half a pint of water; stir them together;
and when they have stood some hours, add a pint
of water, and two ounces of pearl-ashes, and place
the mixture over a fire that will just keep it sim-
mering, till  the oil appears of a  light amber co-
lour, and  has lost all smell, except  a  hot, greasy,
soap-like scent.  Then superadd half a pint of wa-
ter in which one ounce of salt has been dissolved,
and having boiled  it half an  hour,  pour  the mix-
ture into a proper vessel, and let it stand  for some
days,  till the oil and water separate.
  If this operation be repeated several times, di-
minishing each time the quantity  of  ingredients
one half, the oil may be  brought to  a very light
colour,  and  be rendered  equally sweet  with the
common spermaceti  oil.
   Oil purified  in this manner is found  to burn
rauch better, and to answer better the  purposes of
the woollen manufacture. If an oil be wanted thick-
er and more unctuous, this may be rendered so by
toe addition of tallow or fat.
KY.                                        If J

To prepare oils for the manufacture of hard soap.
   Let  the oil  be ground in a  mill, along with a
quantity of fine new-slaked lime, till it becomes of
the consistence of thick cream:  this being done, let
an iron pan be filled one-eighth full of this mix-
ture, to which is to be added an equal quantity of
unprepared oil, the whole  being well  stirred to-
gether.  A brisk fire is now to  be made under the
pan, the contents of which will soon swell to the
top, and afterwards subside; the fire and stirring
must,  however, be  still kept up, till the mixture
begins to sweli and boil a second time, emitting
thick clouds of steam; another portion of oil is now
to be added and stirred briskly in, till this ebulli-
tion is suppressed; the lime being  now united to
the oil, the mass, when cold, will be of the consist-
ence of wax. To make hard soap with the oil thus
prepared, let tallow, rosin, grease, or unprepared
oil, be added in the  proportion of one half, and
melted, to which add  a ley, made of mineral  al-
kali. When a perfect combination has taken place,
by boiling and stirring, let the soap be taken out,
and  cleansed  into frames:  from which  there will
be, as usual, a small discharge of impure ley, after
which the soap  is ready for use.
sooner, the meat will be hardened, and shrink up
as if it were scorched.   Reckon the time from its
first coining to a boil; the slower it boils the  ten-
derer, the plumper, and whiter it will be.   For
those who  choose their food thoroughly cooked,
twenty minutes to a pound  will not be found too
much for gentle simmering by the side of the  fire.
Fresh  killed meat will  take much  longer time
boiling than that which has been kept till Avhat the
butchers call ripe; if it be fresh killed it will be
tough and hard if stewed ever so long, and ever so
gently.  The  size of the boiling pots should be
adapted to what they are to contain; in small fa-
milies we recommend block tin  sauce-pans. &c. as
lightest and safest, taking care  that the covers fit
close, otherwise the introduction of smoke may be
the means of giving the meat a bad taste. Beef and
mutton a little underdone is not a  great fault, but
lamb, pork, and veal are uneatable and truly un-
wholesome, if not thoroughly boiled.   Take  care
of the liquor in which poultry  or  meat has been
boiled, as an addition of peas, herbs, &c. will  con-
vert it into a nourishing soup.
               To bake meats, &c.
  This is one of the cheapest and most convenient
ways of dressing a  dinner  in small families, and
although the general superiority of roasting must
be allowed, sli'l certain joints and  dishes, such as
legs and loins of pork, legs and  shoulders of mut-
ton, and fillets  of veal, will bake to great advan-
tage, if the meat be good.  Besides those joints
above mentioned, we shall enumerate a few baked
dishes which mav be particularly recommended.
  A pig when sent to the baker prepared for  bak-
ing, should have its ears and tail covered with  but-
tered paper, and a bit of butter tied up in a piece
of linen to baste the back with, otherwise it will he
apt to blister.   If well baked it is considered equal
to a roasted one.
  A goose prepared the same as for roasting, or a
                 COOKERY.
               To boil meats, &c.
  This  most simple of culinary processes is not
often performed in  perfection, though it does not
require  so much nicety and attendance as roasting;
to skim the pot well, and  to keep it moderately
boiling, and to know how long the joint requires,
comprehends the most useful point of this branch
of cookery.  The cook must take especial care that
the water really boils all the while she is cooking,
or she will be deceived in the time.  An adept cook
will manage with much less fire for boiling than
she uses for roasting, and to last  all the time with-
out much mending.  When the water  is  coming
to a boil there will  always rise  from the  cleanest
meat a scum to the top, this must be carefully taken
off as soon as  it appears, for on this depends the
good appearance of a boiled dinner.  When you
have skimmed  it well, put in  a  little cold water,
which will throw up the rest of it.   If let alone, it
soon boils down and sticks to the meat, which, in-
stead of looking white  and healthful, will have a
coarse and uninviting appearance.
   Many cooks put in milk to make what they boil
look white,  but  this does more  harm than  good;
others wrap the meat in a cloth; but if it is well
skimmed it will  have  a much  more delicate ap-
pearance than when il  is muffled up.
   Put the meat  into cold  water  in the  proportion
of about a quart to every pound  of meat; it should
remain  covered during  the whole process of boil-
ing, but only just so.   Water beyond what  is ab-
solutely necessary renders the meat less  savouiy
and weakens the  broth.
   The water should be gradually heated  accord-
in" to the thickness, &c. of the  article boiled; for
instance, a leg of mutton of 10 lbs. weight should
be placed over a moderate fire, which will gradu-
ally heat the water without causing it to  boil, for
about forty minutes.   If  the water  boils  much
CULINARY  ARTS. 
164
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 duck placed upon a stand and turned, as soon as one
 side is done, upon the other, are equally good.
   A buttock of beef,, prepared as follows, is par-
 ticularly fine: after it has been put  in salt about a
 week, let it be well  washed and put into a br.-"n
 earthen pan  with a  pint of water;  cover the pjn
 tight over with 2 or 3 thicknesses of cap paper, and
 give it four or five hours  in a moderately heated
 oven.
   A ham, if not too old, put in soak for an hour, ta-
 ken out and  baked  in a moderately heated  oven,
 cuts fuller of gravy, and of a finer  flavour than a
 boiled one.
   Cod fish, haddock, and mackarel, should have a
 dust of flour  and  some  bits of butter spread over
 them.  Eels when large and stuffed, herrings and
 sprats, are put in a brown pan, with vinegar and a
 little spice, and tied over with paper.
   A hare, prepared the same as for roasting, with
 a few bits of butter and a little milk, put into the
 dish and basted several times, will be found nearly
 equal  to  roasting: in the same manner legs and
 shins of beef will be  equally good with proper ve-
 getable seasoning.
               To roast meats, &c.
   The first thing requisite for roasting is to have a
 strong steady fire, or a clear brisk one,  according
 to the size and weight of the joint that is put down
 to the spit.  A cook, who does not attend to this,
 will prove herself totally incompetent to roast vic-
 tuals properly. All  roasting should be done open
 to the air, to ventilate  the meat from  its  gross
 fumes, otherwise it becomes baked instead of roast-
 ed.  The joint should be put down at such a dis-
 tance from the fire as to imbibe  the  heat rather
quickly, otherwise its plumpness and good quality
will be gradually dried up, and  it will turn shriv-
elly, and look meagre.  Whentthe meat  is first put
down, it is necessary to see that  it balances  well
on the spit, otherwise the process of cooking will
be very troublesome.  When it is warm, begin to
baste it well, which  prevents the nutritive juices
escaping; and, if required, additional dripping must
 be used for that purpose.
  As to sprinkling with salt while roasting, most
able cooks dispense with it, as the penetrating par-
ticles of the salt have a tendency to draw out the
animal juices;  however, a little  salt thrown on,
when first laid down, is sometimes necessary, with
 strong meats.  When the smoke draws towards
the fire, and the dropping of the clear gravy begins,
it  is a sure sign  that the  joint is nearly done.
Then take oft"the paper, baste well, and  dredge it
 with flour, which  brings on that beautiful  brown-
 ness which makes roasted meats look so inviting.
   With regard to the time necessary for roasting
 various meats, it will vary according to the differ-
 ent sorts, the time it has been kept, and the tempe-
 rature of the weather. In summer, 20 minutes may
 be reckoned  equal to half an hour in winter.   A
 good skreen, to keep off the chilling currents of air,
 is essentially  useful,   'the old housewife's rule is
 to allow rather more than a quarter of an hour to
 each pound, and in most instances it proves prac-
 tically correct.
  In roasting mutton or lamb, the loin, the chine,
 and  the  saddle,  must have the skin raised, and
 skewered  on;  and, when nearly done, take off this
 skin, and  baste and flour to froth it up.
  Veal requires roasting  brown,  and if a fillet or
 loin, be sure  to paper  the fat, that as little of it
 may be lost as possible.   When nearly done, baste
 it with butter and dredge with flour.
   Pork should be well done. When roasting a loin,
 cut the skin across with a sharp knife,  otherwise
 the crackling is very awkward to manage.  Stuff
 the knuckle part with sage and onion, and skewer
it up.  Put a little drawn gravy in the  dish, and
serve it up with apple sauce in a turene.  A spare-
rib should  be basted with  a little butter, a  little
dust of flour,  and some  sage  and onions  shred
small. Apple sauce is the only one which suits this
dish.
  Wild fowls require a clear brisk fire, and should
be roasted till they are of a light  brown, but not
too much; yet  it is a common fault to roast  them
till the gravy runs out, thereby losing their fine
flavour.
  Tame fowls require more roasting,  as the heat is
longer in penetrating: they should be often basted,
in order to keep up a strong froth, and to improve
their plumpness.
  Pigs and geese should be thoroughly roasted be-
fore a good fire, and turned quickly.
  Hares and rabbits require time and care, espe-
cially to have the ends sufficiently done, and to re-
medy that raw discolouring at the neck,  &c. which
proves often so  objectionable at table.
          To regulate time in cookery.
  Mutton.—A leg of 8 lbs. will require two hours
and a half.  A chine or saddle of 10 or 11 lbs.  two
hours and a half.  A shoulder of 7 lbs. one  hour
and a half.    A  loin of 7 lbs. one hour  and  three
quarters.  A neck and breast, about the same  time
as a loin.
  Beef.—The surloin of 15 lbs. from  three hours
and  three-quarters to four hours.  Ribs of  beef
from  15 to 20 lbs. will take three hours  to three
hours and a half.
   Veal.—A fillet from i2  to 16 lbs. will take  from
four to five hours,  at a good fire. A loin, upon the
average, will take three hours.  A shoulder,  from
three hours to three hours and a half.  A neck, two
hours.  A breast,  from an  hour and a half to two
hours.
  Lamb.—Hind quarter of 8 lbs. will  take from an
hour and three-quarters to two hours.  Fore-quar-
ter of 10 lbs. ab' ut two hours.  Leg of 5 lbs.  from
an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. Shoul-
der, or breast, with a quick fire, an hour.
  Pork.—A leg of 8 lbs. will require about three
hours.  Griskin, an hour and a half.   A  spare-rib
of 8 or 9 lbs. will take from twe hours and a  half
to three ho irs, to roast  it thoroughly.  A  bald
spare-rib of 8 lbs. an hour  and a quarter. A loin of
5 lbs. if very fat, from two hours to two hours and
a half.  A  sucking pig, of three weeks old, about
an hour and a half.
  Poultry.—A  very large turkey w ill require about
three hours; one of 10 lbs. two hours; a small one
an hour and a half.
  A full-grown fowl, an hour and a quarter; a mo-
derate sized one, an hour.
  A pullet, from half an hour to 40 minutes.
  A goose, full grown, from an hour and a half to
two haurs.
  A green goose, 40 minutes.
  A duck, lull  size, from 30 to 50 miuutes.
   Venison.—A  buck haunch which weighs from 20
to 25 lbs. will  take about four hours and a half
roasting: one from 12 to  18  lbs.  will take  three
hours and a quarter.
                    To broil.
  This culinary branch is very confined, but excel-
lent as respects chops or steaks; to cook  which in
perfection, the  fire should be clear and brisk, and
the grid-ircn set on it slanting, to prevent the fat
dropping  in  it.  In addition, quick  and frequent
turning will ensure good flavour in the taste of the
article cooked.
               To fry meats, &c.
  Be always careful to keep the frying-pan clean,
and  see that it is properly tinned.   When frying
any sort of fish, first dry them in a cloth, and then 
COOKERY.
165
flour them.   Put into the pan plenty of dripping,
or hog's lard, and let it be boiling hot before put-
ting in the fish.  Butter is not so good for the pur-
pose, as it is apt to burn and blacken, and make
them soft.   When they are fried, put them in  a
dish, or hair sieve, to drain, before  they are sent
to table.   Olive oil is  the best article for frying,
but it is very expensive, and bad oil spoils  every
thing that is dressed with  it.  Steaks and  chops
should be put iu when the liquor is hot, and done
quickly, of a light brown and turned often.   Sau-
sages should be done gradually, which will prevent
their bursting.
         To make a savoury dish of veal.
  Cut some large  scollops  from a leg of veal,
spread them on a dresser, dip them in rich egg bat-
ter;  season them with cloves, mace, nutmeg, and
pepper beaten fine; make force-meat with some of
the  veal, some beef sUet, oysters chopped,  sweet
herbs shred fine; strew all these over the collops,
roll  and tie them  up,  put them on skewers and
roast them.   To the rest of the force-meat, add
two  raw eggs, roll them in balls and fry them. Put
them into the dish with the meat  when roasted:
and  make the sauce with strong broth, an anchovy
or a  shalot, a little Avhite wine and some spice. Let
it stew, and thicken it with a piece of butter rolled
in flour.   Pour  the  sauce  into the  dish, lay the
meat in with the force-meat balls, and garnish with
lemon.
            Lamb's kidneys, au vin.
  Cut your  kidneys lengthways, but not through,
put four or five  on  a skewer, lay them on a grid-
iron, over clear, lively coals, pouring the red gravy
into  a bowl each time they are turned; five minutes
on the grid-iron will do. Take them up, cut them
in pieces, put them into a pan with the gravy you
have saved,  a large lump  of butter, with pepper,
salt, a pinch of flour, glass of Madeira, (champagne
i s better) fry the whole  for two minutes, and serve
very hot.
     To dress a fowl with the flavour of game.
  Cut the meat of a long-kept rabbit in thin slices; i
lay them on a  dish, and season with pepper and
salt,  chopped parsley, chibol, shallots, and a little
fine oil; split a fowl  at the back, bone it all to the
legs  and wings, stuff it  with  this, then sew it up,
and give it its natural form; brace it  with slices of
veal  and ham, covered over with slices of bacon;
soak it about a quarter of an hour, then add a glass
of white wine, a litlle broth, a faggot, pepper and
salt; when done, sift and skim the sauce, add a lit-
tle cullis,  and serve up the fowl.
       To make artificial eggs and bacon.
  Make clear blancmange in a white dish, cut it
into  rounds  with the top of a tea-cup, and lay them
on the dish on which it is to be served; make yel-
low  Dutch flummery, run it into  a  small tea-cup,
in the form of the yolk of an egg,  and place one on
each round  of the blancmange.   Cut six straight
pieces of  blancmange, on which lay three streaks
of preserved damsons, and serve  all on the same
dish.
             Breast of veal, glacee.
  Cut your breast as square as possible; bone it,
and draw the cut pieces together with a thread; put
it into a pan with a ladle of veal bouillon, cover it
with slices of salt pork and a buttered paper, pre-
viously adding two  carrots in bits, four onions in
slices, two bay leaves, two cloves, pepper and salt;
put some coals on the lid as  well as below; when
two-thirds done take out  the vegetables, reduce
Tour gravy to jelly, turn your meat, and set on the
cover till done; it takes in all two hours and a half
over a very gentle fire.
             Shoulder en galantine.
  Bone a fit, fleshy shoulder of  veal, cut off the ||
ragged pieces to make your stuffing, viz. one pound
of veal to one pound of salt pork minced extremely
fine, well  seasoned  with salt, pepper, spices, and
mixed with three eggs, spread a layer of this stuf-
fing well minced over the whole shoulder to the
depth of an inch, over this, mushrooms, slips of
bacon, slices of tongue, and carrots in threads, co-
ver this with  stuffing as before, then another layer
of mushrooms, bacon, tongue, &c.  when all your
stuffing is  used, roll up your shoulder lengthways,
tie it with a thread,  cover it with  slips of larding
and tie it up in a clean white cloth;  put  into a pot
the bones of the shoulder, two calves' feet,  slips of
bacon, six carrots, ten onions, one stuck with four
cloves, four bay leaves,  thyme, and  a large faggot
of parsley and shallots, moisten the whole with
bouillon;  put in your meat in the  cloth and boil
steadily for three  hours. Try if it is done with the
larding needle; if so, take it up, press all  the liquor
from it, and set it by to grow cold; pass your jelly
through a  napkin, put two eggs in a pan, whip them
well and pour the strained liquor on them, mixing
both together, add peppercorns, a little of the four
spices, a bay leaf, thyme, parsley; let all boil gent-
ly for half an hour,  strain it through a napkin, put
your shoulder on its dish, pour the jelly over and
serve cold.
              Shoulder of mutton.
  Bone the larger half of your shoulder, lard the
inside with well seasoned  larding, tie  it up in the
shape ofa balloon, lay some slips of bacon in your
pan, on them your  meat, with three or  four car-
rots,  five onions, three cloves,  two bay leaves,
thyme,  and the bones  that have been taken out,
moisten with  bouillon, set all on the fire and sim-
mer for three hours and a half; garnish with small
onions.
                Sheep's tongues.
  Fifteen  tongues are sufficient for a dish; wash
and clean  them well, throw them  into hot water
for twenty minutes,  wash them again in cold water,
drain, dry and trim  them neatly, lard them with
seasoned larding and the sma'l needle, lay in your
pan  slips  of bacon, four  carrots in pieces, four
onions,  one stuck with  two cloves,  slips of veal,
two bay leaves, thyme, and a faggot of shallots and
parsley; put your tongues in, cover them with slips
of larding, moisten the whole with bouillon, and
let it simmer five hours.
     To make an excellent ragout of cold veal.
  Either a neck, loin, or fillet of veal will  furnish
this excellent ragout, with a very little expense or
trouble.
  Cut the  veal into handsome cutlets;  put a piece
of butter or clean dripping into a fryingpan; as soon
as it is hot, flour and fry the veal of a light brown;
take it out, and if you have no gravy ready, put a
pint of boiling water into the fryingpan, give it a
boil  up for a minute, and strain it into  a basin
while you  make some thickening in the following
manner:—Put about an ounce of butter into a stew-
pan; as  soon as it  melts, mix with it as much flour
as will dr*T it  up; stir it over the fire for a few mi-
nutes, and gradually add to it the gravy you made
in the fryingpan; let them simmer together for ten
minutes (till  thoroughly incorporated);  season it
with pepper, salt, a little mace, and a wineglass of
mushroom catsup, or wine;  strain it  through a
tammis, to the meat; and stew very gently  till the
meat is thoroughly warmed.  If you have any ready
boiled bacon,  cut  it in slices, and  put it to warm
with the meat.
              To make veal cake.
  Take the best end of a breast cf veal, bone and
cut it in three pieces; take the yolks out of eight
eggs boiled hard, and slice the whites, the yolks to
be cut through the middle, two anchovies, a gooU 
166
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 leal of parsley chopped  fine, and  some lean ham
 eut in thin slices; all these to be well seasoned se-
 parately with  Cayenne, black  pepper,  salt, and a
 little nutmeg; have ready a mug, the size of  the
 intended cake, with a little butter rubbed on it,  put
 a layer of veal on the bottom, then a layer of egg
 and parsley, and ham to fancy; repeat it till  all is
 in, lay the  bones on  the  top, and let it be baked
 three or four  hours, then take off the bones, and
 press down the cake till quite cold. The mug must
 be dipped into warm water, and the cake turned
 out with great care, that the jelly may not be bro-
 ken which hangs round it.
  Portugese  method of dressing a loin of pork.
  Steep it during an entire week in red wine, (cla-
 ret in preference) with a strong infusion of garlic
 and a little spice; then sprinkle it with fine herbs,
 envelope it in  bay leaves, and bake it along with
 Seville oranges piqwes degirofle.
              To make dry devils.
  These are usually composed of the broiled legs
 and gizzards of poultry,  fish  kones, or  biscuits,
 sauce piquante. Mix equal parts of fine salt, Cay-
 enne pepper, and currie powder, with double the
 quantity of powder of" truffles; dissect a brace of
 woodcocks rather under roasted, split  the heads,
 subdivide the  wings, &c. &c. and  powder the
whole gently over with the mixture: crush the trail
and brains along with the yolk of a hard boiled
egg, a small portion of pounded inace,  the grated
peel of half a  iemon, and half a spoonful of soy,
until the ingredients be brought to the consistence
 of a fine paste; then add a table-spoonful of catsup,
a full wine glass of Madeira, and the juice of two
 Seville oranges; throw the sauce, along with  the
 birds, into a stew-dish, to be heated with spirit of
wine—cover close up—light the lamp—aud  keep
gently simmering, and occasionally stirring, until
the fiesh has imbibed the greater part of the liquid.
When it is completely saturated, pour  in a  small
quantity of salad oil, stir  all once more well  to-
gether, put out the light, and serve it round  in-
stantly.
               To make an olio.
  Boil in a broth pot, a fowl, a partridge, a small
leg of mutton,  five or six pounds of large slices of
beef, and a knuckle of veal; soak all these without
broth for some time, turn the meat to give it a
good colour, and add boiling water: Avhen it has
boiled about an hour, add all  sorts of  best  broth
 herbs;  this broth, when good, is of a fine brown
 colour.
              To pot leg of beef.
  Boil a leg of beef till the meat will come off  the
 bone easily; then mix it with a cow heel, previous-
 ly cut into thin pieces, and season the whole with
 salt and spice: add a little of the liquor in which
 the leg of beef was boiled, put it into a cheese-vat,
 or cullender, or some other vessel that will let  the
 liquor  run off; place a very heavy vveight over it,
 and it will be  ready for use in a day or two.   It
 may be  kept in souse made of bran boiled in wa-
 ter, with the addition of a little vinegar.
                  To pot beef.
  Cut it small, add to H some melted butter, 2  an-
 chovies boned ind washed, and  a little of the best
 pepper, beat fine. Put them into a marble mortar,
 and beat them well  together till the  meat is yel-
 low; put it into pots and oover with clarified butter,
                  'Jo pot eels.
  Cut them in pieces about four inches long, sea-
 son with a little beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper, salt,
 and a little sal prunella beaten  fine.  Lay them in
 a pan and pour as much clarified butter over as
 will cover it.  Bake half an hour in a quick  oven,
 till properly done.   Then lay them on a coarse
 cloth to drain; when quite cold season them  again
 the same way.  Then take off the butter they were
 baked in clear from  the gravy of the fish, and se;
 them in  a dish before the fire.
    When melted, pour the butter over them and
 put by for use.
              Potted lobster or crab.
    This must be  made with fine hen lobsters when
 full of spawn, boil them thoroughly, when cold,
 pick out all the solid meat, and pound it in a mor-
 tar, it is usual to add  by degrees (a very little) fine-
 ly pounded  mace, black or Cayenne pepper, salt,
 and, while  pounding, a little  butter.  When the
 whole is well m.xed, and  beat to the consistence
 of" paste, press it down hard in a preserving-pot,
 pour clarified butter  over it, and cover it with wet-
 led bladder.
           To make Bologna sausages.
   Take a pound of beef suet, a pound of pork, a
 pound of bacon fat and lean, and a pound of beef
 and veal.  Cut  them very small. Take a handful
 of sage leaves chopped fine, with a few sweet herbs.
 Season pretty high  with pepper and salt, take a
| large well-cleaned gut and fill it. Set on a sauce-
 pan of water, and when it boils, put  it in, first
i pricking it to prevent its bursting.  Boil it 1 hour.
            To make  Oxford sausages.
   Take 1 lb. ot young pork, fat and lean,  vvithout
 skin or gristle,  1 lb.  of beef suet, chopped fine to-
 gether; put in £  lb. of grated bread,  half the peel
 of a lemon shred, a  nutmeg grated,  6 sage leaves
 chopped fine, a  tea-spoonful of pepper, and 2 of
i salt, some  thyme,  savory, and marjoram,  shred
 fine.  Mix well together and put it close down in
I a pan till used. Roll  them out  the size of common
 sausages, and fry them in fresh butter of a fine
 brown, or broil  them over a clear fire, and send
 them to table hot.
            To make  Epping sausages.
   Take 6 pounds of  young  pork, quite free from
 skin, gristle, or  fat;  cut it  small, and beat it fine
 in a mortar. Chop 6  pounds of beef suet very fine,
 shred a handful of sage leaves fine, spread the meat
( on a  clean  dresser,  and shake the  sage  over it,
| Shred the rind of a  lemon very fine, and throw it
 with sweet herbs on the meat.  Grate two nutmegs,
 to which put a  spoonful  of pepper, and a large
j spoonful of salt.  Throw the  suet over, and mix
, all well  together.  Put it down close in the pot,
 and when used, roll it up with as  much  egg a?
 will make it smooth.
                To make savaloys.
   Take  3 pounds of young pork free from bone
 and skin; salt it  with an ounce of salt-petre, and a
 pound of common salt for two days; chop it fine;
 put in 3 tea-spoonsful of  pepper;  a dozen sage
 leaves chopped fine,  and a pound of grated bread;
 mix  it well, fill  the  guts, and bake  them half an
 hour in a slack oven: they are good  either hot or
 cold.
             To make beef a la  mode.
    Take  11 pounds of the  mouse buttock,  or clod
 of beef,  cut it into pieces of 3 or 4 ounces each;
 put 2 or 3 large  onions, and 2 ounces of beef drip-
 ping into a large deep stew pan; as soon as it is
 quite hot, flour the meat, and  put it  into the stew
 pan; fill  it sufficiently to cover  the contents with
 waler, and  stir it continually with a wooden spoon;
 when it  has been on a quarter of an  hour, dredge
 it with flour, and keep doing so till it has been stir-
 red as much as will  thicken it; then cover it with
 boiling water.  Skim it when it  boils, and put in 1
i drachm of black ground pepper, 2 of allspice, and
'■ 4 bay leaves; set the pan by the  side of the fire to
I stew slowly about four hours.   This is at once a
 savoury  and economical dish.
                     Bouilli,
I    Take  the thin ends of prime ribs: bubble them 
COOKERY.
167
6lowly with a little salt, pepper, 3 bay leaves, one
onion  stuck  with cloves,  and a faggot of sweet
herbs.  Remove all  the scum and bubble till a
skewer will penetrate without force.
              Bouilli—en matelotte.
   Peel a handful of small onions, fry them in but-
ter till they are ofa light brown, throw in a hand-
ful of flour, shake the pan well, add a glass of red
wine,  a pint of (bouillon)  mace, salt,  pepper,
thyme, and two  bay leaves; bubble the whole gent-
ly till the onions are tender, and pour it over slices
of cold bouilli.—Set all in a  sauce pan Avell cover-
ed on hot ashes, to repose  for 15  minutes.  Take
care it does not  boil.
        Beef's tongue—aux champignons.
  Wash your tongue well and boil for half an
hour;  season  some larding with salt,  pepper, all
kii\ds of spice, shallots and chopped parsley; lard
your tongue across; put it in  a stew pan with a few
slices of bacon and  beef, carrots, onions, thyme, 3
bay leaves, 3 cloves; cover with bouillon, and stew
very gently for  4  hours;  when done  skin your
tongue and cut it up lengthways in the middle  and
under part, but not through,  so that you can bend
it up and  lay it on your  dish in  the  shape of a
heart.   Have ready a  quantity of button mush-
rooms, fried in  butter, with  a sprinkle of lemon
juice moistened with bouillon, and bubbled to a
proper consistence.  Pour it  over your tongue and
serve hot.
                Beef—en daube.
  Prepare a round  or rump as for beef a la mode,
well larded with the largest needle;  put  it into
your pot Avith a spoonful of lard.   Set  the pot on
hot coals, dust it with flour, turn your beef till  it
is well browned on  both sides; have ready a kettle
of boiling water, cover your meat,  add  in bits six
large onions, two bunches  of carrots, and  an  egg
plant in slices. Put on your lid and bubble slowly
but steadily for four hours (for 16 pounds of Deef,
longer if heavier) or till the skewer will pass easi-
ly into it.  About half an hour  before serving,
throw in a pint  of small mushrooms, season with
pepper and salt, a dozen bay leaves, and all kinds
of spice.   Set your  beef in a deep dish, and cover
with the sauce.
              Fish—en matelotte.
  Almost every kind offish answers for this dish.
Scale, clean and cut them in pieces; put them into
a pan with a  handful of small onions  previously
fried whole? in butter, two bay leaves, a fagot of
shallots and parsley, small muslirooms, thyme, bay
leaves, rait and  pepper; pour over the whole as
much red wine as will cover  it; set your pan on a
quick fire; when the wine is  one half gone, mix  a
spoonful of flour with a large lump of butter,  roll
it in little balls,  and put them one by one into your
sauce,  stirring it the whole time.   Arrange your
fish  handsomely on a deep  dish, pour over the
sauce,  and garnish  with slices of lemon.
             Flounders—a la creme.
  Scale, clean and  wrap your fish  in a cloth, boil
it gently in plenty of water well salted; when done
drain it carefully without breaking, lay it on your
dish and mask  it with  cream,  or white onion
sauce.
                   Terapins.
  Plunge them  into boiling  water till they are
dead, take them  out, pull oft the outer skin and toe
nails, wash thern in warm water, and boil their
with a teaspoonful  of salt to  each  middling sized
terapin, till you can  pinch the flesh from  off the
bone of the leg; turn them out of the shell into a
dish, remove the sawl-bag and gall, add the yolks
of two  eggs, cut  up your meat, season  pretty high
with equal parts of  black and cayenne pepper and
salt.  Put all into your sauce pan, with the liquor
they have given out in cutting up, but not a drop of
water; add a quarter of a pound of butter, with a gill
of madeira, to every two middle  sized terrapins;
simmer gently till tender, closely covered, thicken
with flour, and serve hot.
                Oysters to stew.
  Put your  oysters  with all their liquor into a
sauce pan; no water; to every dozen add a lump of
butter size ofa walnut, salt, black pepper, a blade
of mace, two bay leaves; bubble tor five minutes,
add  a little cream,  shake all well together, and
turn them out, grating a little nutmeg on each oys-
ter as it lies in the sauce.
            Oysters roasted very fine.
  Roast your oysters over a quick fire till they are
done dry, but not scorched; turn them out on the
plate of a blazer,^without  any of their liquor; add a
large lump of butter.  Set the plate over the lamp
when the butter is melted, add a gill of madeira, a
little salt and cayenne.
              Chicken—an soliel.
  Raise the thighs  if as many large young fowls as
you want, bone them, and have a  large lump of
butter melted in a frying pan, lay in your thighs
with a little salt, pepper, a bay leaf, one onion,
two cloves, and a bundle of shallots  and parsley,
put all over a quick fire till the meat  is browned,
then add a table-spoonful of flour, a ladle of hot
bouillon, and a handful  of  buttered mushrooms;
bubble for three quarters of an hour, carefully re-
moving  all the fat; take out your meat, throw away
your onion,  bay leaf, herbs, &c. beat and put  in
three yolks of eggs, pour the sauce over your fowl;
when cold dip them well  iu  the sauce, then  in
crumbs  of bread, then in yolks of eggs beat and
seasoned, more crumbs; fry them ofa light  brown
in their  sauce, drain, pile them in a  circle, and
fill the hollow with  fried  parsley.
              Duck—olive sauce.
  Truss your duck so as to be as round as possible,
tie it up with thread and rub it with a lemon; have
ready some slices of bacon, lay your duck on them,
slices of bacon over the  duck again; set your lid
on, with hot embers on top, let all simmer 1  hour;
have ready a pint of olives, cut cork screw fashion,
so that when detached from the stem they will re-
sume their original shape.   Throw them into a pan
with a  cup  of broth, a little essence  of meats, a
lump of veal jelly, and a  little black  pepper; boil
for ten minutes over a quick fire, when reduced one
half, pour it over your duck, garnish with  large
(pared)  olives and sprigs of blanched celery.
             Wildfowl—en salmis.
  Cut up a cold roast duck (wild), goose, brant  or
whatever it may be.   Put  into a bowl or soup
plate, (to every bird) a dessert spoonful of well
made mustard, a sprinkle of cayenne and  black
pepper, with about  a gill of red wine; mix  them
well together; set your pan on the tire with a lump
of butter, when it  melts add  gradually the  wine,
he. let it bubble a  minute, put in your duck, and
bubble  it for  a  few minutes.  If your duck has
proved tough when  first  cooked, use a sauce pan,
and let  it Imbble till tender, taiing care there is
enough  graAy to keep it from burning.  Serve on
dry toast, very hot.
             Pigeons—en compote.
  Pick, draw and truss  four squabs, legs inside,
tie them up  with a thread, put a lump of butter in-
to a pan, when melted a little flour, mix and make
a browning; lay in some sliees of salt pork, turn
then for five minutes; put  in your pigeons with a
cup of  bouillon, shake the pan frequently till  it
boils, add a  handful of mushrooms and a faggot of
shallots and  parsley; skim it well; have ready some
small white onions fried in butter;  when  your
birds are two-thirds done, add them to your sauce, 
168
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 skim it again, put your birds in a deep dish, s>nd
 pour over your sauce and garnish with small boiled
 onions.
            Partridge—aux choux.
  Pheasants  (so  called in Pennsylvania) or par-
 tridges may be  used indifferently.   Pick,  singe,
 draw and truss your birds neatly; lard them with
 seasoned larding if you  have  a needle, truss their
 feet inside, put  them into a  stew-pan with some
 slices of bacon, a large sausage, one pound of fat
 salt pork.  Cover your birds  with slips  of bacon,
 add four onions, two cloves, six bay leaves; put in
 a blanched cabbage tied up, cover the whole with
 thin slips of bacon, add a ladle of broth and simmer
 two hours: take up your birds, drain and lay them
 on a hot plate, drain your cabbage, spread it hand-
 somely on  a  dish;  on  the cabbage  arrange your
 birds, round  it pieces of the  ham and sausage al-
 ternately, have the gravy reduced to a proper thick-
 ness by a quick  fire, pour over your birds  and
 serve hot.
  N. B. Fowls, pheasants, &c. are very good done
 in the above way.
                  Pigeon pie.
  Trass "half a dozen fine large pigeons as for stew-
 ing, season them with pepper and salt, and fill them
 with  veal stuffing or some parsley chopped very
fine, and a little pepper, salt,  and three ounces of
butter mixed together:  lay at the  bottom of the
dish a rump steak  of about  a pound weight, cut
into pieces and trimmed neatly, seasoned and beat
out with a chopper; on it lay the pigeons, the yolks
of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of broth or
water; wet the edge of the dish, and cover it over
with puff-paste, wash it over with yolk of egg, and
prnament it Avith leaves of paste, and the feet of
the pigeons; bake it an hour and a half in a mode-
rate heated oven: before it is  sent to table make an
aperture in the top,  and pour in some good gravy
quite hot.
                   Giblet pie.
  Clean well, and half stew two or three sets of
goose giblets; cut the leg in two, the wing and neck
into three, and the gizzard into four pieces; pre-
serve the liquor, and set the  giblets by till cold,
otherwise the heat of  the giblets will  spoil the
paste you cover the pie  with:—then season  the
whole with black pepper  and salt, and put them
into a deep dish;  cover  it with paste, rub it over
with yolk of egg, ornament and bake it an hour
and a half in a moderate  oven; in the meantime
take the liquor the giblets were stewed in, skim
it free from fat, put it over a  fire in a clean stew-
pan, thicken it a little  with  flour  and butter, or
 flour and water, season it with pepper and salt, and
 the juice of half a lemon, add a few drops of brown-
 ing, strain it through a  fine sieve,  and when you
take the pie from the oven, pour some of this into
 it through a funnel.  Some lay in the bottom of
 the dish a  moderately thick rump  steak:—if you
 have  any cold game  or  poultry, cut it  in pieces,
 and add it to the above.
               Rump steak pie.
  Cut three pounds of rump steak (that has been
kept  till tender) into pieces half a3 big as your
 hand, trim off all the skin, sinews, and every part
 which has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten,
 «nd  beat them with a  chopper.  Chop  very fine
 half a dozen eshallots, and mix them with half an
 ounce of pepper and  salt mixed, strew some of the
 mixture at the bottom of the dish, then a layer of
 steak, then some more of  the mixture, and  so on
 till the uish is full;  add half  a gill of mushroom
 catsup, and the same  quantity of  gravy,  or  red
 wine,  cover it as in the  preceding  receipt,  and
 bake :t two hours.
  N. B. Large oysters, parboiled, bearded, and
laid alternately with the steaks—their liquor, reduc-
ed and substituted instead of the catsup and  wine,
will be  a variety.
                  C/iicken pie.
  Parboil and then cut up neatly two young chick-
ens; dry them, set them over a slow fire for  a few
minutes, have ready some  veal  stuffing or force-
meat, lay it at the bottom of the dish, and place in
the chickens upon it, and with it some pieces of
dressed ham; cover it with  paste, bake it from an
hour and a half  to two  hours; when sent to table
add some good gravy,  well seasoned  and  not too
thick.
  Duck pie is made  in like manner,  only substi-
tuting; duck stuffing instead of the veal.
  N. B. Theabove.may be put into a raised French
crust, and baked; when done take off the top, and
put a ragout of sweetbread to the chicken.
                  Rabbit pie.
  Made in the same  way, but make a forcemeat to
cover the bottom of the dish, by pounding a  quar-
ter pound of boiled  bacon with the livers of the
rabbits; some pepper and salt, some pounded mace,
some chopped parsley, and a shallot, thoroughly
beaten together; and you may lay some thin slices
of ready dressed ham or bacon on the  top of your
rabbits.
               Raised French pie.
  Make about two pounds of flour into a paste, as
directed, knead  it well, and into  the shape of a
ball, press your  thumb into the  centre, and  work
it by degrees into any shape (oval or round is the
most general,) till about five inches high; put it on
a sheet  of  paper, and fill it with coarse flour or
bran; roll out acoveringfor it about the same thick-
ness as the sides; cement its sides with the yolk of
egg; cut the edges quite  even, and pinch it round
with the finger and thumb; yolk of egg it over with
a paste brush, and ornament it in any way as  fancy
may direct, with the  same kind of paste.  Bake it
ofa fine brown colour, in a slow oven,  and  when
done, cut  out the top, remove the  flour or  bran,
brush it quite clean, and fill it up with a fricassee of
chicken, rabbit,  or any other entree most conve-
nient.   Send it to table with a napkin  under.
                Raised nam pie.
  Soak  four or five hours a small ham; wash and
scrape it well; cut off the knuckle, and boil it for
half an hour;  then take it up and  trim it very  neat-
ly; take off the rind and put it into an oval  stew-
pan, with a pint  of Madeira or Sherry, and enough
veal stock to cover it.  Let it stew for fc o hours,
or till three parts done;  take it out aud set it in a
cold place; then raise a srust as in the foregoing re-
ceipt, large enough to receive it; put in the  ham,
and round it the veal forcemeat; cover and  orna-
ment; it will tuke about one hour and a half to bake
in a slow oven: when done take off the cover;  glaze
the  top, and pour round  the following sauce, viz.
Take the liquor  the ham was stewed  in; skim  it
free from fat; thicken with a little flour and butter
mixed together, a few drops of browning, and  some
cayenne pepper.
  P. S.  The  above is, I think, a grod way of dress-
ing a small ham, and has a good effect cold  for a
supper.
                Raised pork pie.
  Make a raised crust, of a good size, with  paste
.•About four inches hi^h; take the rind and chine
bone from  a loin of  pork, cut it into  chops, beat
them with a chopper, season them with pepper and
salt, and powdered sage, and fill  your  pie; put on
the top and close it, and pinch it round the edge,
rub it over with  yolk of egg, and bake it two hours
with a paper over to  prevent the  crust from burn- 
COOKERY.
169
ing.  When done, pour in some good gravy, with
a little ready mixed mustard and a tea-spoonful of
catsup.
                    Eel pie.
  Take eels about half a pound each,—skin, vash,
and trim off the  fin with  a pair of scissors,—cut
them into pieces three  inches long, season them
with pepper and  salt, and  fill your  dish, leaving
out the heads and tails.  Add  a gill of veal broth,
cover it with paste, rub it  over with a paste brush
dipped in  yolk of egg, ornament it with some of :
the same paste, bake it  an hour, and when done, j
make a hole in the centre, and pour in the follow- i
ing sauce through a funnel: The  trimmings boiled J
in half a pint of veal stock, seasoned with pepper j
and salt, a table-spoonful of lemon juice, and thick-
ened with flour and water, strained through a tine
sieve; add it boiling hot.
               Raised lamb pie.
  Bone a loin  of lamb, cut into cutlets, trim them
very nicely, and lay them  in the bottom of a stew
or frying pan,  with an ounce ot butter, a tea-spoon-
ful  of lemon juice, and some pepper  and salt; put'
them over a fire,  and turn them  and put them to i
cool; then raise four or five small pies with paste,
about the  size of a tea-cup, put some veal force- ,
meat at the bottom, and the cutlets upon it; roll out
the top an eighth of an inch thick, close and pinch
the  edges, bake them half an hour, and when done,
take off the top,  and pour  in some good  brown
sauce.
              Beefsteak pudding.
  Get rump steaks, not  too $hick, beat them Avith
a chopper, cut them into pieces about half the size
of your hand, and trim oft" all the  skin, sinews,
hc.\ have ready an onion peeled and chopped fine,
•ikewise some potatoes peeled  and cut into  slices,
a quarter of an inch thick, rub the inside ofa ba-
sin  or an  oval  plain mould with butter, sheet  it
with paste as directed for boiled  puddings;  season
the steaks with pepper, salt,  and a little  grated
nutmeg; put in a layer of steak, then another of
potatoes, and so on till it is full, occasionally throw-
ing in part of the chopped onion;—add to it half a
gill of mushroom catsup, a table-spoonful of lemon
pickle, and half a gill of water or veal broth; roll
out a top, and  close it well to prevent the water
getting in;  rinse a clean cloth  in hot  water, sprin-
kle  a little flour over it, and tie up  the pudding,
have ready a large pot of water boiling, put it in,
and boil it two hours and a half, take it up, remove
the  cloth, turn  it  downwards in  a deep dish, and
when wanted take away  the basin or mould.
                  Vol au vent.
  Roll off tart  paste till about the eighth of an inch
thick; then with a tin cutter made for that purpose,
(about the  size of the bottom  of the dish you in-
tend sending to table,) cut out the shape, and lay
it on a baking  plate with  paper, rub it over with
yolk of egg; roll out good puff paste an inch thick,
stamp it with the same cutter, and  lay it  on the
tart paste, then take a cutter two sizes smaller, and
press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste;
—rub the  top with yolk of egg, and bake it in a
quick oven about twenty minutes, ofa light brown
colour:  when done  take out ihe paste inside the
centre mark, preserving the top, put it  on a dish
in  a warm place, and when wanted, fill  it  with a
Avhite fric ssee of chicken, rabbit, ragout of sweet-
bread, or any other entree you wish.
To make a French stew of green peus and bacon.
  Cut about $ of lb. of fresh bacon into thin slices;
soak it on the fire in a stew-pan  until it is  almost
done; then put about a q^uart of peas to it, a good
bit  of butter, a faggot ot parsley, and 2 spoonsful
of caisup:  simmer on a slow fire and reduce the
      W
sauce: take out the faggot and  serve the rest  to-
gether.
           To make mock brawn.
  Take the head and belly piece of a young pork-
er, well salt-petred; split the head and boil it; take
out the bones and cut it to pieces; then take four
ox feet boiled tender, and cut them in thin pieces;
lay them in the belly piece with the head cut small;
roll it up tight with sheet tin, and boil it four or
five hours.  When it comes  out set it  up on  one
end, put a trencher on it within the tin, press it
down with a large weight, and let it stand all night.
The next morning take it out of the tin and bind
it with a fillet, put it into cold salt and water, and
it  will be fit for use; it will  keep a  long time, if
fresh salt and water are put into it eveiy four days.
        To make Dr Kitchener's pudding.
  Beat up the yolks and whites of three eggs, strain
them through a sieve, and gradually add  to them
about a quarter of a pint of milk.  Stir these well
together; mix in  a mortar  2 oz. of moist sugar
and as much grated nutmeg  as  will  lie on  a  six-
pence; stir these  into the eggs  and milk.—Then
put in 4 oz. of flour, and beat it  into a smooth  hat-
ter; stir in, gradually, 8 oz.  of  very fine  chopped
suet, and 3 oz. of bread crumbs—mix all thorough-
ly  together, at least half an hour before putting the
pudding into the pot.  Put it into an earthenware
mould that is well buttered,'and  tie a pudding cloth
over it.
             Notti?igham pudding.
  Peel six good apples; take out the cores with the
point of a small knife, but be sure to leave the ap-
ples whole; fill up where the core was taken from
with sugar, place them in a pie dish, and pour over
them a nice light batter, prepared as for batter pud-
ding, and bake them an hour in  a moderate oven.
         To make a fasting day's dish.
  Boil eggs very hard, and  cut a little from the
thick ends.  Fry them in a pan, and take care to
keep them continually in motion; then place them
in  Ihe dish, pour over them some good fish or herb
gravy, and garnish with lemon.
          To dress a military omelette.
  Make a ragout  of stewed sorrel,  with a little
parmesan cheese,  rasped and mixed with bread
crumbs; make two omelettes, put this ragout be-
tween, and garnish the dish round with fried bread,
standing up like a paste border; which may be done
by dipping the edge of each bit in whites of eggs
to  make them stick;  pour  a little melted  butter
over it,  and  strew bread crumbs and parmesan
cheese as before; give colour in  the oven, or with a
hot shovel.
          To make an onion omelette.
  Fiy two or three sliced onions in butter till they
are quae done, add two yolks of eggs, and a little
chopped parsley;  make two small omelettes with-
out sal:, put the onions and a few fillets of ancho-
vies upon them, and roll them lengthways; have
some pieces of bread cut like toast and fried in but-
ter; cut the omelettes according to the size of the
bread, and  place thein thereon; pour a little melt-
ed butter over, and strew them with bread crumbs
and rasped parmesan cheese: giA-e them  a good co-
lou' in the oven, or with a salamander; serve what
sauce you please.
  French method.—The eggs  should  be beaten
with a spoon, white and yolk together; and a small
quantity of parsley  and  young onions,  minced,
should be stirred among the butter, before it is
poured  into the frying-pan.
  Another omelette.—The eggs  being beaten, are
to  be seasoned with salt and pepper, and then fried
in  butter made boiling hot;  when done, the gravy
is  to be poured on,  and the whole  stewed with 
1T0
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 chives and parsley shred  small; when one side is I
 fried enough, it is to be turned on .he other.
           To make Yorkshire pudding.           \
   This nice dish is usually baked under meat, and l
 is thus made.  Beat four  large spoonsful of flour,
 eggs, and  a little salt for fifteen  minutes.  Then
 put to  them three pints  of  milk, and mix  them |
 well  together.   Then  butter a dripping-pan, and
 set it under beef, mutton, or veal, while roasting.
 When  it is brown, cut it into square pieces, and
 turn it  over;  and when the under side is browned
 also,  send it to the table on a dish.
                Dutch pudding.
   Cut a round  piece out of the bottom of a Dutch
 loaf, and put that and the piece that  was cut out
 into a quart of cold new milk, in the evening, and
 let it stand all  night.   If the milk is all soaked up
 by the morning, add some more.   Put the piece
 in the bottom again, tie the loaf up in  a cloth, and
 boil it an hour.  Eat it with sugar, or with melted
 butter,  white wine, and sugar sauce.
           To make a dish of frumenty.
   Boil an approved quantity of wheat; when soft,
 pour off the water, and keep it for use as it is want-
 ed.  The method of using it  is, to  put milk to
 make it of an agreeable thickness; then warming
 it, adding sbme sugar and  nutmeg.
         To make a Windsor pudding.
  Shred half a  pound of suet very fine, grate  into
 it half a pound  of French roll, a little nutmeg, and
 the rind of a lemon.   Add to these, half a pound
 of chopped apple, half a pound of currants, clean
 washed  and dried, half a pound of jar raisins, ston-
 ed and  chopped, a glass of rich sweet wine, and
 five eggs beaten with a little salt.  Mix all tho-
 roughly together, and boil it in a  basin or mould,
 for three hours.  Sift fine  sugar over it when sent
 to table,  and pour white wine sauce into the dish.
             A Cheshire pudding.
  Make a crust as  for a fruit pudding, roll it out
 to  fourteen or fifteen inches in length, and eight or
 nine in  width;  spread with raspberry jam or any
 other preserve of a similar kind, rid  roll it up in
the manner ofa collared eel.  Wrap a cloth round
it two or three times, and  tie it tight at each end.
Two hours and a quarter will boil it.
           To  make a plain pudding.
  Weigh three quarters of a pound  of any  odd
 scraps of bread, whether crust or crumb, cut them
 small, and pour on them a  pint and a half of  boil-
ing water, to soak them well.  Let it stand till the
water is cool, then press it  out, and mash the bread
 smooth  with the back of a  spoon. Add to it, a tea-
 spoonful of beaten ginger, some moist sugar, and
three  quarters of a lb. of currants.  Mix all  Avell
together, and lay it in a pan well buttered. Flatten
 it down with a spoon, and  lay some pieces of but-
 ter on the top.   Bake it in a moderate oven, and
 serve  it hot.  When cold, it will  turn out of the
 pan, and eat like good plain cheese cakes.
            Transparent pudding.
  Beat  up eight eggs, put them into  a  steAv-pan
 with half a pound of sugar, the same of butter, and
 somegiated nutmeg, and set it on the fire, stirring
 it till it thickens, then pour it into a basin to cool.
 Set a rich paste round the  edge of your dish,  tour
 in  your pudding, and bake it in a moderate oven.
 A  delicious and elegant article.
            A Patna rice pudding.
  Wash a quarter of a pound of whole rice, dry it
 in  a cloth and  beat it to a powder.  Set it upon
 the fire,  with a  pint and a  half of new  milk, till it
 thickens, but do not let it  boil.- pour it out, and let
 it stand to cool. Add  to it, some cinnamon, nut-
 meg,  and mace, pounded,  sugar to the taste, half
 a pound of suet shred very small, and eight eggs
 well beaten Avith some  salt.  Put to it, either half
 a pound of currants, clean washed and dried by the
 fire, or some candied  lemon, citron, or orange
 peel.  Bake it half an hour with a  puff crust un-
 der it.
            A baked potato pudding.
   Mix twelve ounces of potatoes boiled, skimmed.
 and mashed, 1 oz. of suet, quarter of a pint of milk,
 and 1 oz.  of cheese grated fine; add as much boil-
 ing Avater as is necessary to produce a due consist-
 ence, and bake it in an earthen pan.
          7 o make raspberry dumplings.
  Make a puff paste, and roll  it  out. Spread rasp-
 berry jam, and make it into dumplings. Boil them
 an hour; pour melted butter into a dish, Mid strew
 grated sugar over it.
       To make  raspberry and cream tarts.
  Roll out thin  puff paste,  lay it in a patty-pan;
 put in raspberries, and strew fine sugar over them.
 Put on a lid, and when baked, cut it open, and put
 in half a pint of cream, the yolks of two eggs well
 beaten,  and  a little sugar.
           To make marrow pudding.
  Grate a penny loaf into crumbs, pour on them a
 pint of boiling hot cream.   Cut very thin a pound
 of beef  marrow, beat four eggs well, and then put
 in a glass of  brandy,  with  sugar and nutmeg to
 taste. Mix them all well together, and either boil
 or bake it, for three quarters of an hour will do it.
 Cut tAvo  ounces of citron very  thin,  and, when
 served up, stick  them all over it.
           To make Oldbury pudding.
   Beat four eggs very well, have ready a pint ba-
 sin floured and buttered, pour  in  the  eggs, and till
 it up with new  milk  previously  boiled, and with
 two laurel leaves, and when cold, beat them  to-
 gether;  put  a  white paper over  the basin, covet
 with a cloth, and boil  it twenty minutes.  Send i(
 up with wine and butter sauce.
                Quince pudding.
  Scald the  quinces tender, pare  them thin, scrape
 off" the pulp, mix with sugar very sweet, and add a
 little ginger and cinnamon.   To a  pint of cream
 put three or four yolks of eggs, and  stir it into the
 quinces till they  are of a good thickness.   Butter
the dish, pour it in and bake it.
                Tansy pudding.
  Blanch  and pound a quarter of a pound of Jor-
 dan almonds; put them into a stew-pan, add a gill
of the syrup of roses, the crumb  ofa French roll,
 some grated nutmeg, half a glass of brandy, two
table-spoonsful of tansy juice, 3 oz. of fresh butter,
and some  slices of citron.  Pour over it a pint and
a half of boiling cream  or .nilk, swee' »n, and when
cold, mix  it; add the juice of a lemon, and 8 eggs
beaten.  It may  be either boiled or baked.
                Lemo'i pudding.
  Cut off  the rind of 3 lemons, boil  them tender,
pound them in  a mortar, and mix  them with a
quarter of a  pound of Naples biscuits, boiled up in
a quart of milk or crearn; beat up 12 yolks and 6
whites of eggs.  Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh
butter, and put in half a pound of sugar, and a lit-
lle  orange flower water.  Mix all well together,
 stir it oyer the fire  till  thick, and squeeze in the
 juice of half a lemon.   Put puff" paste round the
 dish, then pour in the pudding: cut candied sweet-
 meats, and streAv over,-and bake  it for three quar-
ters of an hour.
       Mrs Goodfellow's lemon  puddi ig.
  Take of butter (the  very best) and  loaf sugar,
 each half a pound, beat them to a froth  as  for
 pound-cake, add five eggs, the juice of half  of a
 large or the whole ofa small lemon. Grate into it
 the outside  yellow rind, but  not an atom  of the
 white—half a glass of Madeira, half a glass of bran-
 dy, a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water, pour it
 into yrur paste,  and bake with a  moderate oven. 
COOKERY
171
   N. B.  The above quantities make three common
 puddings.
       Mrs Goodfellow's orange puddinr.
   Proceed as  above,  using a pounded  orange  in
 place of the lemon.
              Cocoa-nut pudding.
   A quarter of  a  pound of grated cocoa-nut, the
 same quantity of powdered loaf sugar, three ounces
 and a half of good butter, the whites of six eggs,
 and half  a glass  of wine and  brandy mixed,  a tea-
 spoonfol  of orange flower and  rose-water—pour
 into your paste,  and bake as above.
            Boston apple pudding.
   Peel one dozen  and a half  of good apples, take
 out the cores,  cut  them small, put into a stewpan
 that will just hold them, with a little water, a lit-
 tle cinnamon,  two cloves, ai.d the peel ofa lemon,
 stew over a slow fire  till (,uite soft,  then sweeten
 with moist sugar, and pass it  through a hair  sieve,
 add to it the yolks of four eggs  and  one white, a
 quarter ofa pound of  good butter, half  a nutmeg,
 the peel  of a lemon grated, and the juice of one
 lemon; beat all well together, line the inside of a
 pie-dish  with good puff paste, put in the pudding,
 and bake half an hour.
             Spring frmt pudding.
   Peel and wash well  four dozen sticks of rhubarb,
 put into a stew-pan with the pudding, a lemon, a lit-
 tle cinnamon, and as much moist sugar as will make
 it quite sweet, set  it over a fire, and reduce it to a
 marmalade, pass through a hair sie-ve, and proceed
 as directed for the Boston pudding, leaving out the
 lemon juice, as the rhubarb will be found sufficient-
 ly acid of itself.
                Plum pudding.
  Suet chopped fine, six  ounces; Malaga raisins
 stoned,  six ounces; currants  nicely  washed -and
 picked, eight ounces;  bread crumbs, three ounces;
 flour, three ounces; eggs, three; sixth ofa nutmeg;
 small blade of mace;  same quantity  of  cinnamon
 pounded  as fine as possible;  half a "easpoonful of
 salt; half a pint of milk, or rather less; sugar, four
 ounces; to which may  be added candied lemon, one
 ounce; citron, half an ounce.  Beat the eggs and
 spice well  together, mix the milk with them by
 degrees,  then the rest of the ingredients; dip a fine
 close linen cloth into boiling water, and  put it in a
 hair sieve; flour it a little, aud tie it up close; put
 it into a saucepan containing  six quarts  of boiling
 water; keep a kettle of boiling water alongside of
 it, to fill up your pot as it wastes; be sure  to keep it
 boiling six hours at least.
                Batter pudding.
  Take six ounces of fine flour, a little salt and
 three eggs, beat up well with a little milk, added
 by degrees till the batter is quite smooth, make it
 the thickness  of cream, put  into a buttered pie-
 dish, and bake three quarters of an hour, or  into a
 buttered  and floured  basin tied  over tight with a
 cloth, boil one and a half or two hours.
             Newmarket pudding.
  Put on to boil a  pint of good  milk, with half a
 lemon peel, a little cinnamon, and a bay-leaf, boil
 gently for five or  ten minutes, sweeten  with loaf
 sugar, break the yolks of five and the  whites of
 three egg3 into a  basin, beat them well, and add
the milk, beat all well together, and strain through
a fine hair sieve  or tammis, have some bread and
 butter cut very thin, lay a layer of it in a pic-dish,
and then a layer of currants, and so on till the dish
is nearly full, then pour the  custard oyer it, and
bake half an hour.
         Newcastle or cabinet pudding.
  Butter a half melon mould, or  quart basin, and
 stick all round with dried cherries, or fine raisins,
and fll up with bread and butter, &c. as in the
above,  and steam it an hour and a half.
               Vermicelli pudding.
  Boil a pint of milk, with lemon peel and cinna
mon,  sweeten with loaf sugar,  strain through a
sieve, and add a quarter of a pound of vermicelli,
boil ten minutes, then put in the yolks cf five and
the whites  of three eggs, mix well  together, and
steam it one hour and a quarter; the same may be
baked half an hour.
               Bread pudding.
  Make a pint of bread-crumbs, put them into a
stewpan with as much milk as will cover ihem, the
peel of alemon, and a little nutmeg grated, a small
piece of cinn..mon; boil about ten minutes; sweeten
with powdered loaf sugar; take  out the cinnamon,
and put in  four eggs; beat all well  together, and
bake half an hour, or boil rather more than an
hour.
                 Suet pudding.
  Suet,  a quarter  of a  pound;  flour,  three table-
spoonsful;  eggs, two; and  a little grated  ginger;
milk,  half a pint.   Mince the suet as  fine as pos-
sible,  roll it  with the rolling pin so as to mix it
well with the flrur; beat up the eggs, mix them
with the milk, and then mix all  together; wet your
cloth well in  boiling Water, flour it, tie it loose,
put into boiling water, and  boil an  hour and a
quarter.
               Custard pudding.
  Boil a pint of milk, and a quarter of a pint of
good cream;  .hicken with flour and water, made
perfectly smooth, till it  is stiff  enough to bear an
egg on it; break in the yolks of five eggs, sweeten
with powdered loaf sugar, grate in a little nutmeg,
and the peel ofa lemon; add half a glass  of good
brandy, then whip the whites of the five eggs till
quite stiff, and mix gently all together; line a pie-
dish with good puff paste, and bake half an hour.
  N. B. Ground rice, potatoe  flour,  panada, and
all puddings made from powders, are,  or may be,
prepared in the same way.
                Boiled custards.
  Put a quart of new milk into a stewpan, with
the peel of a  lemon cut very  thin, a little grated
nutmeg, a bay or laurel leaf, a  small stick of  cin-
namon;  set it over a quick fire, but be  careful  it
does not boil over; when it boils, set it beside the
fire, ami simmer ten minutes; bre**k the yolks of
eight, and  the whites  of four  eggs into a basin,
'•eat them well, then pour in the milk a little  at a
time, stirring >t as quick as possible to prevent the
eggs curdling; set it on the fire again, and stir well
with a wooden spoon; let it have just one boil; pass
it through a tammis, or fine sieve; when cold, add
a little  brandy,  or white wine, as  may be most
agreeable to paiate; serve up in  glasses, or cups.
            To make a perigord pie.
  Take half a  dozen partridges, and dispose of
their legs  in the same manner as  is done with
chickens, when  intended to  be  boiled.  Season
them well with pepper, salt, a  small  quant'ty of
cloves and mace beaten  fine.  Cut two pounds of
lean veal, and one  pound of fat bacon into small
bits, and put them into a stewpan with half a pound
of butter, together with some shallots, parsley,  and
thyme, all chopped together.   Stew these  till the
meat appear sufficiently tender.  Then season it
in the same manner as directed  for the partridges.
Strain and  pound the meat in a mortar till it is
perfectly smooth, then mix the pulp in  some of the
liquor in which it has been stewed. The pie-crust
being raised, and ready to receive the  partridges,
pat them in with the  above-mentioned force-meal
over them,  and ever that lay some thin slices of
bacon.   Cover the pie with a thick lid, and  be sure
to close  it well  at the Sides, m  prevent the gravy
from boiling out at the place where the joining i3
made, which would occasion the partridges to cat 
 172                           UNIVERSAL RI

dry.  This sized pie will require three hours bak-
ing, but be careful no* to put it in a fierce heated
oven.  A pound of fresh truffles will add  conside-
rably to the merits of this excellent pie.
             To make a puff paste.
  Take a quarter ofa peck of flour, and rub it into
a pound  of butter very fine.   .Make it up  into a
light ;>aste Avith cold water just stiffenough to work
it up.  Then lay it out about as  thick as  a  crown
piece; put a layer of butter all over, then  sprinkle
on a little flour, double it up,  and roll it out again.
Double  and  roll  it  with layers of butter  three
times, and it  will be  fit for use.
             7 o make a short crust.      .
  Put six ounces of butter to eight ounces of flour,
and work them well together; then mix it up with
as little water as possible, so  as to have it a stiffish
paste; then roll it out thin for use.
      To make a good paste for large pies.
  Put to a  peck of flour three eggs, then put in
half a pound of suet,  a pound  and a half of  butter
and suet, and as much of the liquor as will make it
a good light crust.  Work it up well and roll it out.
  Another method.—Take a peck of flour, and six
pounds of butter, boiled in a  gallon of water, then
skim it off into the flour,  with as little of the li-
quor as possible.   Work it up well into a paste,
pull it into pieces till cold, then make it into the
desired form.
            To make paste for tarts.
  Put an ounce of loaf sugar, beat and sifted, to
one pound of fine flour.  Make it into a stiff paste,
with a gill of boiling  cream,  and three ounces of
butter.  Work  it well, and roll it very thin.
       To keep potatoes for sea provisions.
  Slice them  and ba*e them slowly and they will
keep and form good flour for years.
         To  use herrings economically.
  The best method of using  salted herrings with
potatoes  is, to parboil the potatoes without their
skins, then boil them with the herrings thorough-
ly, and put them on a dish, when they will form a
most excellent flavoured meal.
             To make a sack posset.
  Beat up the yolks and whites of 15 eggs, strain
them, and then put three quarters of a pound of
white sugar in a pint  of Canary, and mix it with
the eggs  in a basin.  Set it over a chafing dish of
coals, and keep continua'ly stirring it until it is
quite hot.  Next grate some nutn.eg in a quart of
milk, boil it, and then pour  it into the eggs and
wine; while pouring, hold the hand very high, and
let another person keep stirring the posset,  which
renders it smooth, and full bodied to the taste.
  Another method.—Take  four  Naples  biscuits,
and crumble them into a quart of new milk, when
it boils a little,  grate in some nutmeg, and sweeten
it to taste: next pour  in half a pint of sack.  Keep
stirring it, when it will be fit  for table.
                  Ale posset.
  Take a small piece of white bread, put it into a
pint of milk, and  set  it over the fire.  Then put
some nutmeg and sugar into a pint of ale, warm it,
and Avhen the milk  boils, pour  it upon  the ale.
Let it stand a few minutes to clear.
           Green gooseberry cheese.
  Take 6 lbs. of unripe rough  gooseberries, cut off
the blossoms and stems, and put  them  in cold wa-
ter for an hour or two; then take them out,  bruise
them  in  a marble mortar, and  put them into a
brass pan or kettle, over a clear fire, stirring them
till tender: then add 4^ lbs. of lump sugar pound-
ed, and boil it till very thick, and of a fine green
colour, stirring n all the time.
               To steam potatoes.
  Put them clean washed, with their skins on, in-
to a steam saucepan,  and let the water under them i
ECEU'T BOOK.

 be about half boiling, let them continue to boil ra-
 ther quickly, until  they  are  done; if the  water
 once relaxes from its heat, the goodness of the po-
 tato is sure to be affected, and to become soddened,
 let the quality be ever so good.  A too precipitate
 boiling is equally disadvantageous; as the higher
 parts to the  surface of the root begin to crack and
 open, while,the  centre part continues unhealed
 and undecomposed.
               To make potato bread.
   Boil the potatoes  not quite so soft as common,
 then dry them a short time on the fire, peel thein
 while hot, and pound them as fine as possible, next
 put a  small quantity of pearl  ash to new yeast;
 whilst it is working briskly, add as much rye-meal,
 or flour, as can be worked in. •  Mix the whole well
 together, but do not add any water to it.  After the
 dough is thus prepared, let it stand  an  hour and a
 half or two hours before it is put into the oven; ob-   \
 serve it will not require so long  baking as regular
 flour bread.
   An-ther method.—Take 5 lbs. of dried potatoe
 starch, and 5 lbs. of the pulp; dissolve a  suitable
 quantity of  leaven or yeast in warm  water, the
 mixture  being  exactly made the night before; let
 it be all night in a kneading trough, well covered
 and kept warm until the  next day; this is the se-
 cond leaven; then add 5 lbs. more of starch, and
 the same quantity of pulp, and  knead  it well; the
 water must be in the proportion of a fifth part, that
 is, upon 20  lbs. of paste there must be 5 lbs. of
 water, which is to be used as hot as possible.
              To use frosted potatoes.
   If much  frozen lay them in cold water, and  ta
 each peck of potatoes take a \ of oz. of salt-petre
 dissolved in water, which mix with the  fluid  in
 which they are boiled; if the potatoes are so frozen
 as to be quite unfit for nourishment they will make
 starch, and  will yield more  flour  than if unfer-
 mented by the icy  poAver.  This flour, with an
 equal quantify of wheat flour, some  butter, sugar,
 a little balm, and a few currants, makes excellent
 bread for tea.   If formed into  small  cakes, and
 put into a slow oven,  it will keep a  month.
                 SOUPS,  he.

    To ma?.je a tureen of soup Flemish fashion.
  Scald half a dozen of turkey pinions, four sheeps'
rumps, and £ a pound or more of pickled pork;
then tie up each sort together, scald also a good
savoy cut into quarters and tied; put them altoge-
ther into a pan with good broth, a fagot of sweet
herbs, parsley, green shallots, 3 cloves, pepper and
salt; boil slowly; when done, drain the meat; put it
into the tureen, and serve a good gravy sauce with
it.
            New-England chowder.
  Have a  good haddock, cod, or any other  solid
fish, cut it in pieces three inches  square, put a
pound of fat salt pork in strips into the pot,  set it
on hot coals and fry out the oil; take out the pork
and put in a layer  of  fish, over that  a layer of
onions in slices, then a layer of fish with slips of
fat salt pork,  then another layer of onions, and so
on alternately until your fish is consumed;  mix
some flour with as much water as will fill the pot;
season with black  pepper and salt  to your taste,
and boil it for half an hour.   Have ready some
crackers (Philadelphia pilot bread if you  can get
it) soaked in  water till they are a little softened,
throw them into your chowder five minutes before
you take it up.  Serve in a tureen.
             Mullaga-tawny soup.
  Cut 4 lbs. of a  breast of  veal into pieces, abottl
two inches by one; put the trimmings into » stew 
COOKERY.
173
  pan with two quarts  of water, with 12 corns of
  black pepper, and the same  of allspice; when it
  boils, skim it clean, and let it boil an hour and a
  half, then strain it off; while it is boiling, fry of a
  nice brown  in butter the bits of veal  and  four
  onions; when they are done, put the broth to them,
  put it on  the fire; when it boils, skim it clean, let
  it simmer half an hour, then mix two spoonsful of
  curry and the same of flour, with a little cold wa-
  ter, and a teaspoonful of salt; add these to the
  soup, and simmer it  gently till the veal is  quite
  tender, and it  is ready; Or bone a couple of fowls
  or rabbits, and stew them in the manner directed
  above for the veal; and you may put in a bruised
  eshallot,  and  some mace and ginger, inrtead of
  black pepper and allspice.
      A tureen of hodge-podge of different sorts.
    Take either a brisket of beef,  mutton, steaks,
  whole pigeons,  rabbits cut in quarters, veal, or
  poultry; boil a long time over a slow fire in a short
  liquid, with some onions,  carrots, parsnips, tur-
  nips, celery,a fagot of parsley, green shallots, one
  clove of garlick,  3 of spices, a laurel leaf, thyme, a
  little basil, .nrge thick sausages, and thin broth or
  water; when done, drain the meat, and place it upon
'  a dish intermixed Avith roots, sift and  skim  the
  sauce,  reduce some of it to a glaze, if desired;
  glaze the meat with it, then add some gravy on the |
  same stew-pan and  broth  sufficient to make  sauce
  enough with  pepper and  salt: sift  it in a sieve,
  and  serve  upon  the  meat.  If brisket of  beef
  is used, let it be  half done before putting in the
  roots, which  should be scalded first, as it  makes
  the broth more palatable.
                   Portable soup.
    Cut into small pieces 3 large legs of veal, I of
  beef, and the lean part of a ham: lay the meat in a
  large cauldron, with a quarter of a pound of butter
  at the bottom, 4 ounces of anchovies, and 2 ounces
  of mace.   Cut small 6 heads of clean washed cele-
  ry, freed from green leaves, and put them into the
  cauldron, with S large carrots cut thin.   Cover all
  close, and  set it on a moderate fire.   When the
  gravy begins to draw, keep taking it off till it is all
  extracted.   1 l.en cover the meat with water, let it
  boil gently for four hours, then strain it through a
  hair sieve into a clean pan, till it is reduced to one-
  third.   Strain the gravy drawn from the meat into
  a pan, and let it boil  gently,  until it be of a gluti-
  nous consistence.   Take care and skim off all the
  fat as it  rises.   Watch it  when it  is nearly done,
  that it does not burn; next season it with Cayenne
  pepper, and pour it on flat earthen dishes, a quar-
  ter of an inch thick.  Let it stand till the next day,
  and then cut it  out  by round tins larger than a
  crown piece.  Set the cakes in dishes in the sun to
  dry, and turn them often.  When fully dried, put
  them into a tin box with a piece of clean white pa-
  per between each,  and keep  them in a  dry place.
  If made in frosty weather it will soon become so-
  lid.  This kind of soup is exceedingly convenient
  for piivate tamilies, for by putting one of the cakes
  in a saucepan with about  a pint of water, and a lit-
  tle  salt, a basin of good broth may be  made in a
  few minutes.  It will likewise make an excellent
  gravy for roast turkeys, fowls, and game.
                       Curry.
     Take  the skin off two chickens; carve, wash and
  dry them; put them in a stew pan with a teacupful
  of" water,  salt, and a few onions, and  slew them
  with a tew green peas, or the egg plant, till ten-
  der; then take a lump of butter, the size of a pi-
  geon's egg, a little mace, Cayenne pepper to taste,
  a teaspoonful each of fresh turmeric and  carda-
  moms, pounded with a shallot in a marble mortar;
   roll these ingredients with a little flour in the but-
  ter, and dissolve them in the steAv.   If the curry is
to be brown, it must be fried a little before the cur-
ry-ball is added to the gravy.
  Another.—Carve a pair of fat young fowls with
a sharp knife, precisely as if at table; dust them
with flour,  fry them in butter till they are well
browned, lay them in a stew-pan,  with slips of
four large onions, add boiling water to the brown-
ing, &c. left in the pan, give  it  a boil, and pour
the whole over your chicken; if not liquor enough
to rather more than eover it, add hot water: put on
the lid of your pan and set it on hot coals.  In half
an hour take out a  cup  of the gravy, mix it well
with a table-spoonful  of curry powder, and throw
it again into the pan;  stir it well round; taste and
see if your gravy is warm, if not, add Cayenne; bub-
ble the Avhole quietly till the fowls are  tender;
serve in a deep dish, with boiled rice.
                Malay's curry.
  Proceed  as  above;  fry the onions, pieces of
fowls and a couple of egg-plants in slices;  put the
whole in your stew-pan with the milk of two cocoa-
nuts; grate the flesh, put it into a linen  bag and
squeeze out the juice, which put in the saucepan
likewise; add the curry and finish as above.
                 Curry powder.
   Coriander seed, three  ounces; turmeric,  five
ounces; black pepper, mustard,  and  ginger, each
one ounce; lesser cardamom seeds, half an ounce;
Cayenne pepper,  half an ounce;  cinnamon, and
cummin seed  a quarter of an ounce each.  Dry  '
them  well; reduce them separately  to  a pow-
der; pass them through a fine sieve, and mix them
well.  It should be kept in a closely stopped bot-
tle, in a dry place.
         Welsh rabbit—a new receipt for.
   Cut your cheese into small slips, if soft, if hard,
grate it down.   Have ready a spirit of wine lamp,
kc. and deep  block-tin dish; put in the cheese
with a lump of butter, and set it over the lamp.
Have ready the yolk of au egg whipped, with half
a glass of Madeira, and as much ale, or beer; stir
your cheese when  melted, all it is thoroughly mix-
ed Avith the butter, then add gradually the egg and
wine, keep stirring till it forms a  smooth mass.
 Season with Cayenne and grated nutmeg.—To be
 eaten with a thin hot toast.
         Note by the American Editor.
  It often happens, that in travelling, the materials
for a rabbit may be had when there  is nothing else
in the house the gourmand  can eat.   In this case,
if there is no blazer, or chafing dish, an excellent
substitute is formed  in  a  moment, by two soup
plates, separated from each other by pieces of a
bottle-cork  placed on the  rim of the lower one,
which should contain any kind of spirits. Put your
cheese into the top one, fire the spirits with a slip
of paper, and set your rabbit, on the corks; it an-
swers a3  well as  the most  expensive heater  in
Christendom.—Probntum est.
                 Soup maigre.                  \
  Take of veal, beef cut into  small pieces, and
scrag jf mutton, I  II.. each; put them into a sauce-
pan, with 2  quarts  of w..ter; put into a  clean cloth
1 oz. of barley, an onion, a small bund.e of sweet
herbs, 3 or 4 heads  of  celery  cut  small,  a littie
mace, 2 or 3 cloves, 3 turnips pared  and cut  in two,
a large carrot cut  into small pieces, and a voung
lettuce,  Cover the pot close, and lei it stew very
gently for six hours.  Then take out the spice
sweet herbs, and onion,  and  pour  all  into a soup
dish, seasoned with salt.
               Mock twfr. soup.
  Scald a calf's head with the skin on, and take
off the horny part, which cut ;nto two-inch square
pieees: clean an \ dry them  wed in a cioth, and put
them into a stew pan, with 4 quarts cf water made 
174
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK
 as follows:  Take 6 or 7 lbs. of beef, a calf's foot,
 a shank  of ham, an orion, 2 carrots, a turnip, a
 head of celery, some cloves and whole pepper, a
 bunch of sweet herbs, a little lemon  peel, and a
 few truffles.   Put these into 8 quarts of water, and
 stew them gently till  the liquid  is reduced one
 half; then strain it off, and put it into the stew pan
 with the horny parts of the calf's head.   Add some
 knotted marjoram, savory, thyme, parsley chopped
 small, with some cloves and mace pounrfod, a lit-
 tle Cayenne  pepper, some green onions, a shallot
 cut fine, a few chopped mushrooms, and half a pint
 of Madeira wine.   Stew these gently till the soup
 is reduced to  two quarts, then heat a little  broth;
 mix some flour, smoothing it with the yolks of 2
 eggs, and  stir it  over a  gentle fire till  it is near
 boiling.   Add this  to  the soup; keep  stirring as
 you pour it in,  and  continue  stewing for another
 hour.  When done, squeeze in the juice of half a
 lemon, half an orange, and throw in some boiled
 force-meat balls.   Serve  it up in a tureen hot.
 This soup is deliriously gratifying and nutritive.
                Asparagus soup.
   Put a small broiled bone to  1$ pints of peas, and
 water in proportion, a root of celery, a small bunch
 of sweet herbs, a large onion, Cayenne pepper, and
 salt to taste;  boil  it briskly for five houi s, strain
 and  pulp  it;  then  add a little  spinach juice, and
 asparagus boiled and cut into small pieces.  A tea-
 spoonful of walnut soy, and a tea-spoonful of mush-
 room catsup, answers as well as the bone.
                  Giblet soup.
  Take 4 pounds of gravy beat", 2 pounds of scrag of
 mutton, and 2 pounds of scrag of veal;  boil them in 2
 gallons of water, stew them gently till it begins to
 taste well, pour it out and let it stand till cold, skim
 off all the fat.   Take 2 pair of giblets well scaled,
 put them to the  broth, and simmer them till they
 are very tender.  Take them out and  strain the
 soup through a cloth.   Put a piece of butter rolled
 in flour into the  stew pan, with some fine chopped
 parsley, chives, a little  penny  royal,  and  sweet
 marjoram.  Place the soup over a slow fire, put in
 the giblets, tried butter, herbs,  a  little  Madeira
wine, some salt, and Cayenne pepper; when the
herbsare tender, send the soup and giblets intermix-
ed to table.  This forms a very savoury dish.
                  White soup.
  Stew a knuckle of  veal  and a scrag of mutton
three or four hours, with spice;  strain it; blanch ^
a pound of sweet almonds, beat them  with a spoon-
ful or two of cream to prevent their oiling; put
them with a pint of cream into the soup, stir it and
give  it a boil; strain it through a cloth, squeeze
the almonds as dry as possible,  heat it again, and
thicken it  as a custard with eggs; put a toasted roll
in the tureen, and pour the soup over it.  If there
is a breast of cold fowl  or veal, less almonds will
 do; if the meat be stewed and strained the day be-
 fore, it does much  better.
                Charitable soup.
  Take the liquor of meat boiled the ■ day before,
 with the bones of leg and  shin of beef; add to the
 liquor as much as  will  mane  130 quarts, also the
 meat of 10 stones of leg and shin of beef, and 2 ox
 headc, all cut in pieces; add 2  bunches  of carrots,
 4 bunches of turnips, 2 bunches of leeks, ^ a peck
 of onion's,  1 bunch  of celery, ^  a lb. of pepper, and
 some  salt.  Boil it for six hours. Either oatmeal
 or barley  may be put in to thicken it, if thought
 necessary.  This soup may be used at any gentle-
 man's table.
                Veal gravy soup.
  Garnish  the bottom of  the  stew-pan with thin
 pieces of lard, then a few slices  of ham, slices of
 veal cutlet, sliced onions, carrots, parsnips,celery,
 a few cloves upon the meat, and a  spoonful of broth;
  soak it on the fire in this manner till the veal throws
  out its juice; then put it on a stronger fire, till the
  meat  catches  to  the bottom  of the pan, and is
  brought to a proper colour:  then add a sufficient
  quantity  of light broth, and simmer  it on a  slow
  fire till the meat is thoroughly done; add  a  little
  thyme and mushrooms.  Skim and sift it clear for
  use.
                 Beef gravy soup.
   Cut  slices of lean beef, according to the quantity
  wanted, which place in a stew-pan, upon  sliced
  onions and roots, adding two spoonsful of fat broth;
  soak this on a slow fire for half an hour, stirring it
  well; when it  catches  a proper colour add  thin
  broth made of suitable  herbs,  with a little  salt
  over it.
                A poor man's soup.
   Pick a handful of  parsley  leaves, mince them
  fine, and strew over a little salt: shred six green
  onions, and put them  with the parsley in a sauce-
  boat.   Add three table-spoonsful of oil and vinegar
  with some pepper and salt.
           A cheap rice and meat soup.
   Put  a pound of rice and a little pepper and broth
  herbs into two  quarts of water; cover them close,
  and simmer very softly; put in a little cinnamon,
 two pounds of  good ox-cheek, and boil the whole
  till  the goodness is incorporated by the liquor.
   Another  cheap  soup.—Take an ox cheek,  two
  pecks of potatoes, a quarter of a peck of onions,
 three quarters ofa pound of salt, and an ounce and
 a half  of pepper—to be boiled  in ninety pints of
  water,  on a. slow fire until reduced to sixty.  A
 pint of this soup, with a small piece of meat,  is a
i good meal for  a hearty workingspian.  Some of
 every vegetable, with a  few herbs, may be  added,
                  Herring soup.
   Take eight gallons of Avater, and mix it with five
 pounds of barley-meal.  Boil it to the consistence
 ofa thick jelly.  Season it with salt, pepper, vine-
 gar, sweet herbs, and, to give it  a gratifying fla-
 vour, add the meat of four red herrings pounded.
          To prepare a nutritious soup.
   A  pound of Scotch barley, with sufficient time
 allowed in the cooking, will make a gallon  of wa-
 ter into a tolerable pudding consistency.   A pint
 basin filled with it will hold a spoon upright, when
 at its proper degree of warmth for eating.  Tho-
 roughly steeped, it will produce a rich pulp,  the
 form of the grains being nearly lost.  Five  hours'
 exposure, in a moderately heated oven, will oe suf-
 ficient; and it may be improved by an hour or t«vo
 more.
   Amongst other means for such preparation, when
 a baker's  oven has been emptied of its bread, a pan
 of one  gallon size may be put in to steep its con-
 tents during the preceding night, and then renew-
 ing the usual baking in the morning.   What has
 been  lost by evaporation, may be renewed by the
 addition of warm  water.  All the seasoning re-
 quisite to make it as savoury as plain family dishe9
 generally are,  will  be  about threee large onions,
 one ounce of salt, and a quarter of an ounce of pep-
 per.  This seasoning should be put in before send-
 ing it to the oven.
              7 o make jelly broth.
  Put into the stew-pan, slices of beef, veal fillet,
 a fowl, and one or two partridges, according to the
 quantity required.  Put it on the  fire without  li-
 quid, until it catches a little, and add the meat now
 and then.   To give it a proper colour, add  some
good cleai  boiling broth and scalded roots, as car-
rots, turnips, parsnips, parsley roots, celery, large
onions,  two or three doves, a small bit of  nutmeg
and m hole pepper; boil it on a slow fire about four
or five hours with attention; and add a few clovei
of garlic or shallots, and a small fagot, or bunch  cf 
COOKERY.
175
 parsley and thyme tied together.  When it is ofa
 good  yellow colour, sift it; it serves for sauces,
 and adds strength to the soups.
                '  Cooling broth.
   The herbs, fruits, seeds, flowers, or roots which
 are employed for cooling broth, are purslain, let-
 tuces, chervil, leeks,  borage, burnet,  sorrel,  gar-
 den and  wild endive, bugloss, hop-tops, cos let-
 tuces, young nettles, cucumbers, tops of elder,
 dandelion,  iiver-wort, fumitory,  beet  roots,  he.
 Wash and  c'.op a proper quantity, according  to
 order, and boil  a short time in thin veal or chicKen
 broth; sift and  keep it in a cool place.   Warm it
 for use without  boiling.
                 Common sauce.
   Soak slices of veal, ham, onions,  parsnips, two
 cloves of  garlic, tAvo heads of cloves, then  add
 broth, a glass of white wine, and  two slices of le-
 mon; simmer it over a slow fire, skim it well, and
 sift it; add 3 cloves of rocambole,  bruised.
                  Sweet sauce.
   Mix two  glasses of red wine, one of vinegar,
 three spoonsful  of cullis, a bit  of sugar, one sliced
 onion, a  little  cinnamon, and  a  laurel-leaf;  boil
 them a quarter  of an hour.
                 Miser's sauce.
   Chop five or  six large onions, mix a little ver-
 juice, or vinegar, pepper, salt, and a little butter;
 serve it up either warm or cold.
                 Pontiff's sauce.
   Soak slices of veal, ham, sliced onions, carrots,
 parsnips,  and a  white  head of  celery;  add a glass
 of whke wine, as much good broth, a clove of gar-
 Ik, four shallots, one clove, a lit'le coriander, and
 two slices of peeled lemons.   Boil  on a  slow fire
 till the meat is  done;  skim it and sift in a sieve;
 add a little  catsup, and  a small  quantity of  fine
 chopped parsley, just before it is used.
                Housewife's sauce.
   Take  some of the  above  sauce sifted without
 gravy, add a bit of butter rolled in flour, and chop-
 ped chervil: use it Avhen warm.
                 Parson's sauce.
   Chop  lemon-peel very fine, with two  or three
 pickled cucumbers, a bit of butter, salt, and coarse
 pepper; a little flour, with two spoonsful of catsup,
 and stew it on the fire without boiling.
                 Nun's  sauce.
   Put slices of  veal and  ham  in a stew-pan, with
 a  spoonful of oil, two mushrooms, a fagot of pars-
 ley, a  clove  of garlic, two heads of cloves, half a
 leaf of laurel; let it catch a litlle on the fire; then
 add some good broth, a little gravy, and some
 white wine; simmer it for some time, skim it well,
 and sift in a sieve.  When ready, add two or three
 green  shallots,  and  a  dozen  of pistachio-nuts,
 whole.
                Admiral's sauce.
   Chop an anchovy,  capers,  and seA'en  or eight
 green rocamboles; simmer them on the fire with a
 little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg,  and butter roll-
 ed in flour; when ready, add a lemon squeezed.
                 Sauce piquante.
   Put a bit of butler with two  sliced onions into a j
 stew-pan, with a carrot,  a parsnip, a little thyme, j
 laurel, basil, two cloves, two shallots, a  clove of
 garlic, and some parsley; turn the whole over the
 fire until ii be well coloured; then shake in some
 flour, and  moisten it with  some broth, and a spoon-
 ful of vinegar.   Let it boil ov-ir a slow fire:  skim,
 and  strain it through a sieve.   Season  it with  salt
 and  pepper, and serve it with  any dish required i
to  be heightened.
                 Sauce for veaL
   Take the  bones  of cold roast  or boiled veal,
dredge them well with flour, and put them into a
stew-pan,  with a pint and a half of broth or water,
a small onion, a little grated or finely minced le-
mon-peel, or the peel of a quarter of a small le-
mon pared as thin as possible, half a tea-spoonful
of salt, and a blade of pounded mace;—to thicken
it, rub a table-spoonful of flour into half an ounce
of butter; stir it  into the broth, and  set it on the
fire, and let it  boil very gently for about half an
hour, strain through a tammis or  sieve, and  it is
ready to put to the veal to warm up, which  is to
be done by placing the stew-pan by the side of the
fire.  Squeeze in half a lemon, and cover the bot-
tom of the dish Avith toasted bread sippets cut into
triangles, and garnish the dish with slices of nam
or bacon.
            Bechamel or white sauce.
  Cut in  square pieces, half an inch thick, two
pounds of lean veal, half a  pound of lean ham,  melt
in a stew-pan two ounces of butter; when melted,
let the whole simmer until it is ready to catch at
the  bottom, (it  requires great attention,  as  if it
happen to catch at the bottom of the  stew-pan, it
will spoil the look of your sauce,) then add to it
three table-spoonsful of flour;  when well mixed,
add to it three pints of broth or water, pour a lit-
tle at.i time, that the thickening be smooth, stir it
until it boil, put the scew-pan on the corner of the
stove to boil gently for two hours, season it  with
four cloves, one onion, twelve  pepper-corns, a
blade of mace, a few mushrooms, and a fagot made
of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf.  Let
ihe sauce reduce  to a quart, skim the fat  oft", and
strain it through  a tammis cloth.
      Kitchener's (Dr) sauce, superlative.
   Claret or port wine, and mushroom catsup, a
pint of each; half a pint of walnut or other pickle
liquor;  pounded anchovies, four ounces; fresh le-
mon-peel, pared  very thin, an ounce; peeled and
sliced eshallots, the same;  scraped horse-radish,
ditto.; allspice and black pepper, powdered,  half
an ounce each;  Cayenne, one drachm, or curry
powder,  three  drachms;  celery-seed,  bruised, a
drachm. All avoirdupois weight.  Put these into a
wide mouth bottle, stop it close, shake it up every
day for a fortnight, and strain it, when some think
it improved by the  addition of a quarter pint soy,
or thick browning, and you will have a " delicious
double relish."
             A dish of maccaroni.
  Boil four ounces uf maccaroni till it is quite ten-
der, then lay it on a sieve tc drain, and put it into
a stew-pan with about a gill of cream, and a  piece
of butter rolled  in flour; stew it. five minutes and
pour it on a plate.   Lay Parmesan cheese toasted
all over it, and send it up in a water-plate.
                Sauce Italienne.
  Put a piece of butter into a stew-pan, with mush-
rooms, onion, parsley, and the half of a laurel  leaf,
all cut fine; turn the whole over the fire some time,
and shake in a  little f jur; moisten it with a glas3
of white wine, and as much gocd broth; add  salt,
pepper, and a little mace; beat all fine. Let it boil
half an hour: then skim away the fat, and  serve it
up.  A fine flavour may be given to it whilst boil-
ing, by putting in a bunch  of  sweet herbs, which
take out before the dish is servtd up.
               Nonpareil sauce.
  Take a slice of boiled ham, as much breast of
roa3ted  fowl, a pickled cucumber, a hard yolk of
an egg, one  anchovy, a little parsley, and a  head
of shallot, chopped very fine;  boil it a moment in
good catsup, and use it for meat or fish.
              Nivernoise sauce.
  Put in a small stew-pan a couple of slices of bam,
a clove of garlic, tAvo cloves, a laurel-leaf, sliced
onions, and roots: let it catch the fire a little. Then
add a small quantity of broth, two spoonsful of cat-
sup, and a spoonful of the best vinegar.  Simmer it 
176
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 for an hour m the side ofa stove, then sift it in a
 sieve, and serve it for a high flavoured sauce.
                  Gravy cakes.
   Chop two legs of beef in pieces, put them into a
 pot of water, stew it over a slow fire a day and a
 night; then add onions, herbs and spices as for gra-
 vy; continue stewing it  till  the  meat is off the
 bones, and the gravy quite out; then strain the li-
 quor into a milk-pan, to  which quantity it should
 be reduced; when cold, take off the fat, put it into
 a saucepan, and add whatever is required to flavour
 it;  simmer it on a slow fire till reduced to about
 twelve saucers two-thirds full, put them in an airy
 place till as dry as leather, put them in paper bags,
 and keep in a dry place.
                 General's sauce.
   To make this sauce properly, infuse all the fol-
 loAving ingredients for twenty-four hours, on ashes
 in an earthen pot, if possible, which must be very
 well stopped; viz. split six shallots, a clove of gar-
 lic, tAvo  laurel leaves, thyme and basil in  propor-
 tion, truffles, tarragon leaves, half an ounce of mus-
 tard seed,  bruised, six small pieces  of  Seville
 orange peel, a quarter of an ounce  of cloves, as
 much mace, half an ounce of long  pepper two
 ounces of salt; squeeze in a whole lemon, and add
 half a glass of verjuice, fi\'e spoonsful of vinegar,
 and a pint of white wine;  let it settle, and sift  it
 very clear. This may be kept, bottle'd, a long time,
 and it will serve for all sorts of meat and fish—but
 it must be used in moderation.
                 Saibr's sauce.
   Chop a fowl's  li\Ter with two or three shallots,
 and a couple of truffles  or mushrooms;  simmer
 these in a spoonful of oil, two  or  three spoonsful
 of gra\y, a glass of white wine, a little salt and
 coarse pepper; simmer it  about half  an hour, and
 skim it very well before using.
                 Queen's sauce.
   Simmer crumbs of bread in good gravy, until  it
 is quite thick, take it-off the fire, and add a few
 sweet almonds pounded, two  hard yolks of eggs,
 and a breast of fowl roasted, all pounded A'ery fine;
 boil a sufficient quantity of cream to your sauce,
 and  sift all together, then add pepper and salt; and
 warm it without boiling.
                 Carach  sauce.
   Take three cloves of garlic, each cut  in half,
 half an ounce of  Cayenne pepper, and a spoonful
 or two each of Indian soy and walnut pickle; mix
 it in a pint of vinegar, Avith as much cochineal  as
 will colour it.
                 To mat a catsup.
   Boil tomatas, full  ripe,  in their  juice, to nearly
 the consistence of a pulp, pass them through a hair
 sieve, and add salt to the laste. Aromatize it suf-
 ficiently with clove, pepper and nutmegs.
             Catsup for sea-storef.
   Take a gallon ot  strong stale beer, a pound of
 anchovies washed from the pickle, the same of shal-
 lots  peeled; half an ounce of mace, half an ounce
 of cloves, a quarter of an  ounce of whole pepper,
 three or four large races of ginger, and two quarts
 of large mushroom flaps, rubbed to pieces,  Co^'er
 these close, and let .t simmer till half wasted. Then
 strain it through a flannel  bag; let it stand till quite
 cold, and then  bottle it.  This may be carried to
arty part of the world; and a spoonful  of it to a lb.
 of fresh butter melted, will make a fine fish sauce,
 or will  supply  the place of gravy  sauce.   The
 stronger and staler the beer the better will be the
 catsup.
   Another.—Chop twenty-four anchovies, having
 first bon-Hl them:  Put to them ten shallots cut small
 and  a handful of scraped horse-radish, a  quarter
 of an ounce of mace, a quart of white wine, a pint
 of water, and the same quantity of red wine; a le-
 | mon cut into slices, half a pint of anchovy liquor,
  twelve cloves, and» the same number of pepper-
  corns.   Boil them together till it comes to a quart,
  then strain it  oft",  cover it close, and keep it in a
  cold dry place.  Two spoonsful of it will be suffi-
  cient for a pound ot butter.   It is a good sauce for
  boiled fowls, or, in the room of gravy, lowering it
  with hot water,  and thickening it with a piece of
  butter rolled in flour.
                   Fish sauce.
    Take walnuts at the  season for pickling, slice*
  them into an an earthen pan, between every layer
  throw a small handful of salt, stir it w ith a wooden
  stirrer every day for a fortnight; strain the liquor
  through a coarse cloth, and let  it stand  to  settle;
  pour off the clear, and boil it with  a  pound of an-
  chovies to each  pint;  skim it, and let it  stand to
  cool; give it another boil,  add one pint of red port,
  and one of best white wine vinegar to each pint of
  liquor; also mace, cloves, and nutmegs, of each,
  half a quarter of an ounce, some flour of mustard,
  sliced  horse-radish, and shallot, or a clove of garlic
  in each bottle.
    Keep it  well  corked with  a bladder tied over,.
  The spice may be  bruised or not, as desired, and
  add a  little whole black, or Jamaica pepper,  as
  thought best.
    Another.—Take one pound of anchovies, a quart
  of claret, three quarters ofa pint of white wine  vi-
  negar, half an ounce of cloves and mace, two races
  of ginger sliced, a little black pepper, the peel of
  a lemon, a piece of horse-radish, a large onion, a
  bunch  of thyme and savory; set all these over a slow
  fire to  simmer  an  hour, then strain it through a
  fieve;  when cold, put it in a bottle Avith the spice,
  but not the herbs.   To a large coffee-cupful cold,
  put a pound of butter; stir it over the  fire till it is
  as thick as  cream;  shake the bottle when used, and
  put no Avater to the butter.
             Cream sauce for a hare.
   Run the cream over the hare or venison just be-
 fore  frothing it,  and catch it  in a dish; boil  it  up
  with the yolks of two eggs, some onion, and a piece
  of butter rolled in  flour and  salt.   Half a pint  of
 cream  is the proportion for two eggs.
              Ragout of asparagus.
    Scrape one hundred of grass clean; put them into
  cold water; cut them as far as is good and green,
 chop small two heads  of endive, a  young lettuce,
 and an onion.   Put a quarter of a pound of butter
 into  the stew pan, and when it is melted, put  in the
 grass with  the  other  articles.  Shake  them well,
 and  when  they  have  stewed ten minutes, season
 them with a Jitlle pepper and  salt;  streAv in a lit-
 tle flour, shake them about, and then pour in half
 a pint of gravy.   Stew the whole till the sauce  is
 very good and  thick, and then pour all into the
 dish.   Garnish with a few of the small tops of the
 grass.
   The same of mushrooms.—Broil on a gridiron some
 large peelf-d mushrooms, and clean off the inside;
 Avhen the outside is brown, put them into a  stow-
 pan  with a sufficient quantity of water  to  cover
j them; when they have stewed ten minutes, put  to
 them a spoonful of Avhite wine, the same of brown-
  ing,  and a little  vinegar.   Thicken it with butter
 and flour, give a gentle boil,  and serve it. up with
 sippets round the dish.
    Of artichoke bottoms.—Soak them in warm wa-
 ter for two or  three  hours,  changing the water;
 then put them into the stew-pan with  some good
 gravy,  mushroom catsup, or powder.  Add a little
 Cayenne pepper and salt  when they boil; thicken
 tnem with  a little flour,  put  them into  the dish
 with sauce  over them, and serve them hot.
    Of calves' sweet-breads.—Scald two  or  three
 sweet-breads, cut each into three or  four pieces, 
PASTRY, &c.                                     -?7
ftnd put them into a stew-pan wi_    .shrooms,
butter, and a fagot of sweet herbs; soak these to-
gether a moment, then add broth and gravy; sim-
mer on a slow tire, skim the sauce well, and reduce
it; season with pepper, salt, and lemon juice when
ready.
  Of roots.—Cut carrots and parsnips to the length
ofa finger, and of  much the same thickness; boil
them till half done in water, put them into a stew-
pan with small bits of ham, chopped  parsley, and
shallots, pepper  and salt, a glass of wine and broth;
let  them stew slowly until the broth is  reduced
pretty thick, anil add the squeeze ofa lemon when
ready to serve.   For maigre, instead  of ham, use
mushrooms, and make a mixture heat up with yolks
of eggs and maigre broth.   Cefory is  done much
the same, only it is cut smaller. If these roots are
to be  served in a boat for  sauce, boil  them tender
in the broth pot, or in water, cut them ii.to the de-
sired  length, and serve with a good gravy or
sauce.
                PASTRY, &c.

           To make a rich plum cake,
  Take one pound of  fresh butter, one pound of
sugar, one pound and a half of flrur, two pounds of
currants, a glass of brandy, one  pound of sweet-
meats, two ounces of sweet almonds, ten eggs, a
quarter of an ounce of allspice, and a quarter of an
ounce of cinnamon.
  Melt the butter to a cream and put in the sugar.
Stir it till quite light, adding the allspice, and
pounded cinnamon; in a quarter of an hour take
the yolks of the eggs, and work them in, two or
:hree at a time; and the whites of the same  must
by this tiiro be beaten into a strong snow quite
ready to work in;  as the paste must not stand to
chill the butter, or it  will be heavy,  work in the
whites gradually: then add the orange-peel, lemon,
und citron,.cut in fine  stripes, aud the currants,
which must be mixed in well, Avith the sweet al-
monds.   Then add the  sifted flour and  glass of
(.randy.  Bake this cake in a tin  hoop in  a hot
oven for three hours, and put twelve sheets of pa-
per under it to keep it from ' urning.
  A good plain cake.—The following is a receipt
for making a good plain cake, to be given to chil-
dren, at breakfast, instead of buttered bread.
  Take as much dough as will  make a quartern
loaf, (either made at home, or procured at the ba-
ker's) work into this a quarter of a pound of but-
ter, a  quarter of a pound of  moist  sugar, ( and a
handful of caraway seeds.  When well Avorlced to*
gether, pull into pieces the size of a  golden pip-
pin, and work it together  again.  This  must be
done three limes, or it will be in lumps, and heavy
when baked.
                Iceing for cakes.
  Put one pound of fine sifted, treble refined  sugar
into a basin, and the whites of three new-laid eggs;
beat the sugar and eggs up well with a silver spoon,
until it becomes  very white and thick;  dast the
cake over with flour,  and then brush  it off, by way
of  taking the  grease from the  outside, which pre*-
vents the iceing from  running; put it on smooth
with a palette knife, and garnish according to fan-
cy; any ornaments should be put on immediately,
for if the iceing get dry, it will not stick on.
               A rich seed cake.
   Take a pound and a quarter of flour well dried,
a pound ol butter, a pound of loaf sugar, beat and
sifted, eight eggs and  two ounces of caraway seeds,
one grated nutmeg, and its weight in cinnamon.
Beat the butter into a cream, put in the sugar, beat
the whites of the eggs and the  yolks separately,
       X
then mix them with the butter and sugar.  Beat in
the flour, spices, and seed, a  little before sending
it away.  Bake it two hours in a quick oven.
              A plain pound cake.
  Beat one pouno of butter in an earthen £an un-
til it is like a fine thick cream, then beat in nine
whole eggs till quite light.  Put in a, glass of bran-
dy, a little lemon-peel, shred fine, then work in a
pound and a quarter of flour;  put it into the hoop
or pan and bake it for  an hour.  A  pound plum
cake is made the same  with putting one pound and
a half of clean washed  currants, and half a pound
of candied lemon-peel.
                Ratafia cakes.
  Beat half a pound each of sweet and bitter al-
monds in fine orange,  rose, or ratafia  water, mix
half a pound of fine pounded  and sifted sugarwith
the same, add the whites of four  eggs well beaten
to it, set it  over a moderate  fire in a preserving-
pan.   Stir it one  way until  it is pretty hut, and
when a little cool form it int  o small rolls, and cut
it into thin cakes.   Shake  some flour lightly on
them, give each a light tap,  and put  them on su-
gar papers, sift a little  sug  ar or*,  them, and put
them into a thorough slack o  ven.
              t'     Wiggs.
  Put half a nut of warm r  ailk to three quarters
of a  pouno%f^mie flour; m  ix in it two or three
spoonsful of Rghttyeast.  C  over it up, and set it
before the  fire an  hour,  iu o  rder to- make it rise.
Work into it four ounces eat  ;h f if sugar and but-
ter, make it into cakes, or wi|  'gs, with af little flour
as  possible,  and  a few cara  waj f seeds4«and bake
them quick.
                  Bath  cakt  :s.
   Mix well together, half a  pi  mnd of butter, one
pound of flour, fi\e eggs, ar  ,d  a  cupfulok  yeast.
Set the whole before the fire  to  rise, which effect-
ed, add a quarter ofa pound  of  fine powdered su*--
gar, an ounce of cariways w<  II  mixed in, and roui
the pasts out into little cakes  .   Bake them on tins.
        -*■  ,   Shrewsbury < cal ?es.
   Mix half a pound of butter   wi dLbcat like cream!
and the same weight of flour  ,  01 i«- egg, S'X ounce*
of beaten and sifted loaf sug. ar,  and. half an  ounce
 of  caraway seeds.   Form tn  ese  into a paste, roll
 them thin, and lay them in sh eets  of tin- then bake
 them in a slow oven.
                Portugal ct ikes.
   Mix into a pound of fine f lour, a  pound of loaf
 sugar, beat and sifted,  and rt b it i nfo a pound of
 butter, till it is thick, like  grate d white  bread:
 then put to it two spoonsful  of rost. i-water, two of
 sack, and ten eggs; work the m well  with a1 whisk
 and put in eight ounces of cui rants.  Buttei the tin
 pans, fill.them half full,  and  bake thena.  If made
 without currants they  Avill kuep a year.
           Ginger cakes witl'iout butter.
   Take one pound of  sugar,  a quarter of a pound
 of ginger, a pint of water, two  pounds of flour, and
 eight caps of orange-p ei.  Pound and sift the gin-
 ger, and add a pint of water; boil it five minutes
 then let it stand, till cold.   Pound the preserved
 orange peel, aniLnass  it through a hair-sieve; put
 the flour on a paflpboard, make a wall, and put in
 the orange peel and ginger with the  boiled water-
 mix thij up to a paste and roll it out; prick the
 cakes before baking thea.
                 Savoy cakes.
   To one pound of fine sifted sugar, put the yolks
 of ten eggs,  (have the whites in  a separate pan,)
 and set it,  if in summer, in.cold water: if there is
 any ice set the pan on it, as it will  cause the eggs
 to be beat finer.  Then  beat the yolks and sugar
 well aW'U a wooden spoon for 20 minutes, and put
 in the rind of a lemon grated; beat up the whites
j with a whisk, until they  become quite  stiff and 
178
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 white as snow.  Stir them  into the batter  by de-
 grees, then add j of a pound of well  dried flour;
 finally,  put it in a mould in  a slack oven to  bake.
                 Saffron cakes.
   Take a quartern of fine flour, 1$ lbs. of butter, 3
 oz. of caraway seeds, 6 eggs, well beaten, | of an
 oz. of well beaten cloves and mace, a little pound-
 ed cinnamon, 1 lb. of sugar,  a little rose-water and
 saffron, a pint and a half of yeast, and a quart of
 milk. .Mix them thus: first boil the  milk and  but-
 ter, then skim off the butter, and  mix if with the
 flour and a little of the milk.  Stir  the yeast into
 the rest and strain it^mix it with the flour,  put  hi
 the eggs and  spice rose-water, tincture of saffron,
 sugar, and eggs.   Bear it all well up,  and bake it
 iu a hoop or pan well buttered. Send  it to a quick
 oven, and an  hour and a half will  do if.
                  Queen cakes.
   Take a pound of SL.gar, beat and sift It, a  pound
 of well dried flour, a pound  of butter, eight eggs,
 and half a pound of currants washed and picked;
 grate a nutmeg and an equal quantity of mace and
 cinm..non, work the butler to a cream, put  in the
 sugar, beat the whites of the eggs 20 minutes, and
 mix them with the butter and sugar.  Then beat
 the yolks for  half an hour and put them to the but-
 ter. Beat the whole together, and when it is ready I
 for the oven, put in the flour, sp'ujga, ajpl currants;
 sift a little sugar oyer them, and bal-frthem in tins.
                  Rice cakes.'
   Beat the yolks of 15 eggs tor nearly half an hour,
 with a ^hisk, mix well with them  ten ounces of
 fine sifted loaf sugar, put in half a pound of ground
 rice, a litlle orange water or  brandy, and the rinds
ot two lemons grated,  then add the whites of seven
eggs well  beaten, and  stir the whole  together for a
quarter ol an  hour.  Put them into a hoop and set
them  in a quick oven  for half an hour, when they
 will be properly done.
                 Lemon cakes.
  Take  one poupd of sugar, three  quarters of a
pound of flou", 14 eggs, two table-spoonsful of rose-
 water, the raspings and juice of four lemons; when
the yolks are  well  beat up and separated) add the
powder sugar, the  lemon raspings, the juice, and
the rose-water;  beat them well  together in a pan
with a round  bottom, till it  becomes  quite light,
for half an hour.   Put  the paste to the  whues pre-
viously well whisked about,  and mix it very light.
When well mixed sift in the flour and knead it in
 with the paste, as light as possible; form  the  bis-
cuits and  riake them in small oval  tins,  with six
 sheets of paper under them, in a moderate heat.
 Butter tl.rr tins well or it will prove difficult to take
out the biscuits, which will be exceedingly nice if
 well made. Ice them previous to baking,  but very
 lightly and even.
               Banbury cakes.
  Take a  pound of dough made for white  bread,
 roll it out, and put bits of butter opon  the same as
 for puff paste, till  a pound cf the same has been
 worked  in; roll it out  very  thin,  then cut it  into
 bits of an oval  size, according as the cakes are
 wauled.   Mix some good moist sugar  with a little
 brandy,  sufficient to wet it, thJft) mix  some clean
 washed currants wjth the formW, puf a little'upon
 each bit of past*e, close them up, and put ihe side
 that is closed next the tin t'.ey are to be baked up-
 on. Lay them separate, and  bake  them moderate-
 ly, and afterwards, when taken out, sift sugar over
 them. Some candied peel may be added, or a few
 drops of the essence of lemon.
                Jllmond cake.s.
   Take six ounces of sweet almonds, half a  pound
 of powdered sugai, S'-ven eggs, six ounces c" flour,
 and the  raspings of four lemons.  Foifod the al-
 monds very fine, with whole eggs, add the wgar
,; and lemon raspings, and mix them well together m,
 | the mortar. Take it out, put it in a basin and  s'.ir
 I it with the yolks of eggs, till  it is as white as  a
 I sponge paste^  beat up  the whites of the  2ggs to a,
 ' strong snow, mix them very light with the paste,
  then take the flour and mix it as light as possible;
  on this the goodness of the paste  principally de-
  pends, as it is impossible to make a gond cake with,
  » heavy  paste; butter the mould, and bake in  a
  slack oyen for an hour, with ten sheets of paper
: under it  and one on the top.
               Plain gingerbread.
'  Mix three pounds of flour with  four ounces of
  moist sugar, half an ounce of powdered ginger, and
, one pound and a quarter of warm treacle; melt half
I a pound of fresh butter in it; put it  to the flour am]
  make it a paste; then form it into nuts or cakes, or
  bake it in one cake.
   Another method.—Mix six pounds of flour with
 two ounces of caraway seeds, two ounces of ground
  ginger, two ounces of candied  orange  peel, the
  same of candied lemon peel cut in  pieces, a  little
  salt, and six ounces of moist sugar; melt one pound
  of fresh butter in about ha}f a pint of milk, pour it
  by degrees into four pounds ot treacle, stir it well
 together, and add it, a little at a time,  to the flour;
 mix it  thoroughly; make it into a paste; roll It out
 rather thin, and cut  into cakes with the top of a
 dredger or win" glass; put them on floured tins,
 and bake them in rather a brisk oven.
                  Cream cakes.
   Beat the whites of nine eggs to a stiff froth, stir
 it gently with a spoon lest the froth should fall, and
 to every wh/ite of an egg grate the rinds of two  le-
 mons; shake in gently a spoonful of double refined
 sugar sifted fine, lay a wet  sheet of paper on a.tin,
 and with a spoon, drop  the froth in litlle lumps on
 it near each other.   Sift a  good quantity of sugar
 over them,  set them in the oven after the bread is
 out, and close up the mouth of it, which will occa-
 sion the froth to rise.   As  soon as they are colour?
 ed they will be sufficiently baked; lay them by two
 bottoms together on a sieve, and diythem in a coo]
 oven.     •
                    Crumpets.
   Set 2 lbs. of flour with a little salt before the fire
 till qr'te  Avarm;  then mix  it with warm milk and
 water till it  is as stiff as it can be stirred; let tha
 milk be as warm as it can  be borne with the fin-
 ger, put a cupful of this with 3  eggs well beaten,
 and mixed with 3 spoonsful of very thick yeast;
 then put this to the batter  and  beat them all welj
 together in a large pan  or bow), add as much milk
 and water as will make it into a thick batter; cover
 it close and put it before the fire to. rise; put a bit
 of butter in a piece of  thin muslin, tie it up, and
 rub it lightly over the  iron hearth  or  frying pan;
 then pour on a  sufficient quantity of batter at a
 time to make one crumpet; let it do slowly, and it
 will be very light.   Bake them  all  the same  way
 They should not be brown, bpt ofa fine yellow.
                    Muffins.
   Mix a  quartern of fine flour, 1A  pints of Avarnj
 milk anl water, with J ofa pint of good yeast, anil
 a little salt; slir them together for a quarter of an
 hour, then strain the liquor into  a quarter of a peck
 of fine flour; mix the dough well and set it to rise
 for an hour, then  roll it up and pull it into small
 pieces, make them up  in the hand' like balls and
 lay a flannel over them while rolling, to keep them
  warm.   The dough should be  closely covered  up
 the whole time; when the whole is rolled into balls,
 the first  that are  made will be  ready  for baking.
 When they are spread out in the right form for
  muffins, lay them on tins and bake tl.em, and as the
  bottoms begin to change colour turn them on the
 other side. 
PASTRY,  fcc.
179
                  Common buns.
   Rub four ounces of butter into two pounds of
 flour,  a little salt,  four ounces of sugar, a dessert
 spoonful of caraways, and a tea-spoonful of ginger;
 put some warm milk or cream to four table spoons- j
 ful of yeast; mix all together into a paste, but not
 too stiff; cover it over and set it before the  fire an
 hour to rise, then  make it into buns, put them on a
 tin, set them before the fire for a quarter of an
 hour,  cover  oyer  with flannel, then  brush them
 with very warm milk and bake  them of  a nice
 brown in a moderate oven.
                   Cross buns.
   Put 2J lbs. of fine flour into a wooden bowl, and
 set it  before the fire to warm; then add £ a lb. of
 sifted  sugar, some coriander seed, cinnamon  and
 mace powdered fine; melt ^ lb. of butter >n half a
 pint of milk; when it is as Avarm as it  can bear the j
 finger, mix with  it three table spoonsful of very
 thick  yeast,  and a little salt; put it  to the flour,
 mix it to a paste, and make the buns as directed in
 the last receipt. Put a cross on the top, not very
 deep.
                    Rusks.
   Beat up seven eggs, mix them with half a pint
 of warm new inilk, in which  a quarter of a pound
 of butter has been  melted, add a quarter of a pint
 of yeast, and three ounces of  sugar: put them gra-
 dually into as much flour as will make a light paste
 nearly as thin as batter; let it rise before the  fire
 half an hour, add  more  flour to  make it a little
 stiffer, work it well and diyide if into small loaves,
 or cakes,  about five or six inches  Avide, and flatten
 them.   When baked and cold put them in the oven
 to brown a" little.  These cakes when first baked
 are very good buttered for ter, if they are  made
 with caraway seeds they eat very nice cold.
               Orange custards.
   Boil very tender the rind  of half a  Seville
 orange, and beat it in a mortar until it is very fine;
 put to  it a spoonful of the best brandy, the juice 01
 a Se\ille orange, four ounces of loaf sugar, and  the
 yolk of four eggs.   Beat  them all  together for  ten
 minutps, and  then pour  in by degrees a pint of
 boiling cream; beat them until cold, then put the-u I
 in  custard cups, in a dish  of hot water; let them
 stand till they are  set, then take them out and stick
 preserved orange peel on the top; this forms a fine
 flavoured dish, and may be served up hot or cold.
                Baked custards.
   Boil a pint of cream with some  mace and cinna-
 mon, and when it is cold, take four yolks of eggf,
 a  little rose water, sack,  nutmeg, and sugar, to
 ta4e; mix thein well and bake them.
                 Rice custards.
   Put  ?. blade of mace, and a quartered nutmeg in-
 to a quart of cream; boil and strain  it, and add to
 it  some boiled r'ice and a little brandy.   Sweeten
 it  to taste, stir it till it thickens, and serve it up in
 cups or in a dish; it may  be  used either  hot or
 cold.
               Almond custards.
   Blanch a quarter of a pound of almonds, beat
 them very fine, and then put them into a pint of
 cream, with two spoonsful of rose water; sweeten
 it, and put in the yolks of four eggs; stir them well
together till it becomes thick, and then pour it into
cups.
               Leinon custards.
  Take half a pound of double refined sugar, the
juice of two  lemons, the rind of  one pared very
thin, the inne." rind of one  boiled tender and rub-
bed through « sieve, and a pint of white wine; boil
them for some time, then take out the perl  and a
little of the liquor; strain them into the dish, stir
them well together and Set them to cool.
             To make almond tarts.
   Blanch and beat fine some almonds, with a little
 white wine and some sugar (a pound of sugar to a
 pound of almonds), grated bread, nutmeg, cream,
 and the juice of spinach, to colour the almonds.
 Bake it in a gentle oven, and when done, thicken
 with candied orange peel or citron.
              Gree»i almond tarts.
   Pull the almonds from the tree before they shell,
 scrape off the down, and put them into a pan with
 cold spring water; then  put  them into a skillet
 with more spring water; set it on a sIoav fire, and
 let it  remain till  it simmers.   Change the water
 tAvice, and let them remain in the last till tender,
 then take them out and dry them well in a cloth.
 Make a syrup with double refined sugar, put them
 into it and let them simmer; do the same the next
 day, put thein '"to a stone jar, and cover them very
 close, for if the least air comes to them they  will
 turn liiack; the yellower they are before  they are
 taken out of the  water, the greener they will be
 after they are done.  Put  them into the crust, co-
 ver them with syrup, lay on the lid, and bake them
 in a moCerate oven.
              Orange or lemon pie.
   Hub  six oranges or lemons with salt, and put
 them into waier,j»iih a handful of salt, for  two
 days.   Put evethday fresh water Avithout salt, for
 a fortnight.   Bouthem tender, cut ihem into half
 quarters,  corner vvays, quite thin; boil six pippins
 pared, cored, and quartered, in a pint of water til!
 they break, then put the liquor to  the oranges or
 lemons, with half the pulp of the pippins well bro-
 ken, and a pound of sugar; boil them a quarter of
 an hour, then put them into a pot and squeeze in
 two spoonsful of the juice of either orange or le-
 mon,  according to the kind of tart; put puff paste,
 very thin, into  shallow patty-pans.   Take a brush,
 and rub Ihem over with melted butter, sift double
 refined  sugar over tnem, which will form a pretty
 iceing, and bake them.
                  Orange tarts.
   Grafe a little of the outside of a Seville orange,
 squeeze the juice into a dish, put the peel into wa-
 ter, aa(d change it often  for four days, then nut it
 into a saucepan of boiling water on the fire; change
 the water tAvice to take out  the bitterness, and
 Avhen tender, Avipe and beat them fine in a mortar;
 boil their weight in double refined sugar into a sy-
 rup, and skim it, then put in the pulp and boil all
 together till clear; when cold put it into the tarts,
 and squeeze in the juice, and bake them in a quick
 oven.   Conserve of orange makes good tarts.
                 Orange puffs.
  Pare off the rinds from Seville oranges, then rub
 them with salt,  let  them 1>~ twenty-lour  hours in
 water, boil them in four changes of ivater, make the
first salt, drain and beat them  to a pulp; bruise iu
 the pieces of all that are pared, make it  very
 sweet with loaf sugar, and boil  it till thick; let it
 stand till cold, and then put it into the paste.
              English macaroons.
    ne pound of sweet  almonds, 1 pound and a
quarter of sugar, 6 whites of eggs, and the rasping9
of 2 lemons.   Pound the almonds very fine with 6
 whites of eggs, feel the almonds, and if they are
free from  lumps, they will do; then add the pow-
dered sugar, and mix it well with the lemon rasp-
ings.  Dress them  in wafer paper of the required
shape;  bake  them  in  a  moderate heat, then let
them stand till  cold, cut  the  wafer paper round
them, but leave  it on the bottoms.
               Fancy bisciuts.
  Take  1 pound of almonds, 1 pound of sugar, and
some orange  flower water.  Pound the almonds
very fine,  and sprinkle them  with orange flower"' 
180                           UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 water; when they are perfectly smooth to the touch,
 put them in a small pan, with flour sifted through a
 silk sieve;  put the pan on a slow fire, and dry the
 paste till it does not stick to the fingers; move it
 well from the bottom, to prevent its burning; then
 lake it off, and roll it into small round fillets, to
 make knots,  rings, &c,  and cut it into various
 shapes; make  an iceing  of different colours, dip
 one side of them in it, and set them  on wire grat-
 ings  to drain.   They may be varied by strewing
 over them coloured pistachios, or coloured almonds,
 according to fancy.
                 Sponge biscuits.
   Beat the yolks of 12 eggs for half an hour; then
 put in 1^ pounds cf beaten sifted sugar, and whisk
 it till it rises :n bubbles; beat the whites to a strong
 froth, and  whisk them well with the sugar and
 volks, work in 14 oz. of flour, with the rinds of 2
 lemons grated.  Bake them in tin moulds buttered,
 in a quick oven, for an hour; before they are baked,
 sift a little fiue sugar over them.
               Fine cheesecakes.
   Put a pint of Avarm  cream into a saucepan over
 the fire, and when it is warm, add to  it 5 quarts of
 new milk.   Then put in some rennet, stir it, and
 when  it is turned, put the curd inlp a linen clc.h
 or bag.  Let the whey drain fron^it,  but do not
 squeeze it too  much.   Put it inm a mortar, and
 pound it as fine as butter.  Add  half a pound of
 sweet  almonds blanched, half a pound of maca-
 roons, or Naples biscuit.  Then  add  9 well beaten
 yolks  of eggs,  a  grated nutmeg, a little rose or
 orange water, and naif a pound of fine sugar.   Mix
 all well together.
             Almond cheesecakes.
  Put 4 ounces of blanched  sweet  almonds  into
 cold water, and beat them in a marble mortar or
 wooden bowl, with some rose water.  Put  to it 4
 ounces of sugar, and the yolks of 4 eggs beat fine.
 Work it till it becomes white and frothy, and then
 make a rich puff paste as follows:  Take  half a
 pound of flour, aud a quarter  of a pound oflbutter;
 rub a little of ihe butter into the flour, mix it stiff
 with a little cold water, and then roll out the paste.
 Strew on a little flour, and lay over it, in thin bits,
 one-third of the butter; throw a  little more flour
over the bottom, and  do  the like three different
times.  Put the paste into the tins, grate sugar over
them, and bake them gently.
              Bread cheesecakes.
  Slice a penny loaf as  thin as possible; pour on
it a pint of  boiling cream, and  let it stand  two
hours.   Beat together eight eggs, half a pound of
butter, and a grated  nutmeg:  mix them into the
cream  and bread with  half a pound of currants,
 well washed and  dried, and a spoonful of white
 wine or brandy.   Bake them in  patty pans, on a
 raised crust
               Rice cheesecakes.
  Boil 4 ounces of rice till it U  tender, and then
 put it into a sieve to drain; mix with  it 4 eggs well
 beaten up,  half a pound of butler, half a pint of
 cream,  6 oz. sugar, a nutmeg grated,  a glass <ffr
 brandy or ratafia  water.  Beat them  all well to-
 gether, then put them into raised crusts, and bake
 them in a moderate oven.
                 Apple cakes.
  Take half a quartern of dough, roll it out thin:
 spread equally over it 5 ounces each of coffoe and
 sugar, a little nutmeg or allspice, and 2 ounces of
 butter; then fold  and roll  it  again  two or threo
 limes, to mix well the ingredients.   Afterwards
 roll  it out thin, and spread over it 4 rather large
 apples, pared,  cored,  and chopped  small; fold it
 ■n, and roll until  mixed. Let it stand to rise after.
 Half a pound of butter may be added.
                 Blancmange.
   Put into 1 quart of water an ounce of isinglass,
and  let irboil till it is reduced to a pint; then put
in the whites of 4 eggs, with 2 spoonsful of rice
water, and sweeten it to taste.   H-in it through a
jelly-bag, and then put to it 2 ounces of sweet, and
I ounce of hitter ahhonds. Scald them in the jelly,
and  then  run them through a hair sieve.  I'ut it
into  a china bowl, and the next day turn it  out.
Garnish with flowers or green leaves, and stick all
over the top blanched almonds cut lengthways.
               Clear blancmange.
   Skim off the  fat,  and strain  a quart of strong
calf's foot jelly, add to  the same the whites  of 4
eggs well beaten; set it oyer the  fire and stir it till
it  boils.  Then pour it into a jelly bag, and run it
through several times till it is clear.   Beat an
ounce each of sweet and bitter almonds to a paste
with a spoonful of rose  water strained through a
cloth.   Then mix it with the jelly, and add to it 3
spoonsful of very good cream.   Set it again over
the fire, and stir it till it almost boils.  Pour it into
a bowl; then stir it often till almost cold: and then
fill the moulos.
             CONFECTIONARY.

         To prepare sugar for candying.
  The first  process is clarifying,  which is done
thus.   Break the white of an egg into a preserving
pan; put to it 4 quarts of water, and beat it with a
whisk to a froth.   Then put in 12 pounds of sugar,
mix all together, and set it over the fire. When it
boils put in a little cold water, and proceed as often
as necessary, till tl.o scum rises thick on the top,
Then remove it from the fire, and when  it is set-
tled, take off' the scum, and pass it through a strain-
ing bag.  If the sugar should not appear very fine,
boil it again before straining it.
               To candy sugar.
  After having completed  the above first process,
nut what quantity is wanted  over the fire, and boil
it till  it is smooth enough.   This is known by dip-
p'.ig the skimmer into the sugar,  and touching it
between the forefinger and thumb; and immediately
on  opening them a small thread Avill be observed
drawn between, which will crystallize and break,
and remain in a drop on the  thumb, which will be
a sign of its gaining some degree  of smoothness.
Boil it again, and it will draw into a larger string;
it is now called bloom sugar, and must be boiled
longer than in the former process.   To try its for-
wardness, dip again the skimmer, shaking off the
sugar into ihe  pan; then blow with the mouth
strongly through the holes, and if certain bladders
go through, it has acquired the second degree; to
in-ove if the liquid has arrived at the  state called
feathered sugar, re-dip the  skimmer, and shake it
over the pan, then give it a sudden flirt behind, and
the sugar will fly off like feathers.
  It now  arrives to the state, culled crackled sugar,
to obtain  which the mass must be  boiled longer
than in the preceding degree; then dip a slick in
it, and put it directly into a pan of cold water, draw
off the sugar which hangs to  the stiok in the water,
and if it turns hard and snaps, it has acquired the
proper degree of crystallization; if otherwise, bcil
it again until it acquires that brittleness.
  '1 he last scage ot refining  this article  is called
carmel sugar, to obtain which it must be boiled
longer than in any of the preceding methods; prove
it by dipping a stick first into the su^ir, and then
into cold  water, and the moment it touches the lat-
ter, it will, if matured, snap like glass.   Be care-
ful  that the fire  is not too fierce, as by flaming up 
CONFECTIONARY.
181
the sides of the pan, it avIH burn, discolour, and
spoil the sugar.
  French method.—Put into a pan syrup enough of
clarified  sugar to  fill the mould; boil it  until it
comes to the state called  small feather;  skim it
well;  take the pan from the fire,  and  pour it into
a small quantity of spirit of Avine sufficient lo make
it sparkle;  let it  rest  till  the  skin, which  is the
pandy, rises on the surface; take it off with a skim-
mer,  and pour it  directly into  the  mould; which
keep in the stove at 90° heat for 8  days: then strain
Ihe candy by a hole, slanting the mould on a bason
or pan to receive the drainings; let it drain till it is
perfectly dry, then loosen the paper by moistening
ft with warm water; warm it all  round near  the
fire, and  turn the candy by  striking it  hard on  the
table.  Put it on a sieve in the  stove to finish dry-
ing it; but do not touch it while  there, and keep
up  an equal heat, otherwise there will be only a
mash instead of a candy.  Spirit of wine will take
off grease, and not affect the candy, as it soon eva-
porates.
             To make barley sugar.
  Take a quantity of clarified sugar in that state,
that on dipping the  finger into the pan the sugar
which adheres to it will break with a slight noise;
this is called crack.  When the sugar is near this,
put in two or three drops of lemon juice, or a lit-
tle vinegar to prevent  its graining.  When  it has
come  to the crack  take it oft'instantly, and dip the
pan into  cold water to prevet.t its burning; let it
stand  a little, and  then pour it on a marble which
must be previously rubbed with oil.  Cut the sugar
Jnto small pieces, when it will  be ready for use.
One drop of  citron will flavour  a considerable
quantity.
                   Bon-bons.
  Provide leaden  moulds,  which  must be of vari-
olous  shapes, and  be oiled with  oil of sweet al-
monds.   Take a quantity of brown sugar syrup in
the proportion to their size, in that state called a
blow,  which  may be known by dipping the skim-
mer into the sugar, shaking it, and blowing through
the holes, when parts of light  may be seen; add a
drop  of  any esteemed essence.  If the bon-bons
are preferred white, when  the  sugar has cooled a
little, stir it round the pan till it grains, and shines
on the surface; then pour it into  a funnel  and fill
the little moulds,  when it will take a  proper form
and harden: as son- as it is cold take it from  the
moulds;  diy it two or three days, and put it upon
paper.  If ihe bon-bons are required to be colour-
ed, add the colour just as the sugar is  ready to be
taken off the fire.
               To candy ginger.
  Put 1 oz. of rate ginger grated fine, 1 lb. of loaf
sugar beat fine, into a preserving pan, with as much
water as  will dissolve  the  sugar.   Stir them well
together over a slow fire till  the sugar begins to
boil.  Then stir in  anoiher pound ot  sugar, beat  '
fine, and keep stirring it till it grows thick.  Then  j
take it off the fire, and drop it in cakes upon earth-
en dishes.   Set them in a warm place to dry, when  !
they will become hard and brittle, and look white.  I
               To candy hqrehound.
  Boil it in water till the juice is extracted; then  '
boil a sufficient quantity of sugar to a great height,
and add the juice to it.   Stir it with a spoon against  I
the sitles of the sugar pan, till it begins to grow
thick, then pour  it out into a paper  case that is
dusted with fine sugar, and cut it  into squares: dry
the horehound, and put it into the  sugar finely pow-
dered and sifted.
          To make w/ute sugar candy.
  Sugar  crystallized by the saturated  syrup being
left in a very w~rra place, from 90 to 100  degrees
Fahrenheit, and the shooting promoted by placing  |
sticks, or a net of threads at small distances from
each other in the  liquor, it is  also deposited from
compound syrup, and does not retain any of the
foreign substances with which the syrup is loaded,
             To  clarify loaf sugar.
  Break the  same into a  copper pan, which will
hold l-3d more, put half a pint of water to each
lb. of sugar, mix 1 while of an egg to every 6 lbs.;
Avhen it rises in boiling, throw in a little cold wa-
ter, which must be  kept ready in  case it should
boil over; skim it the fourth time of rising, conti-
nue to throAV in a little cold Avater each time till the
scum ceases to rise, and strain it through a sieve,
cloth or flannel bag.  Save the scum, which,  when
a certain  quantity is taken off, may be clarified.
The latter skimming will do to add to  fermented
wines.
         To clarify coarse brown sugar.
  Put 50 pounds of coarse brown sugar into a pan,
which Avill enntain one-third more, pour in 20 i "nts
of water,  well mixed with 5 whites of eggs; pound
5 lbs. of small charcoal, mix it in ihe pan while on
the fire, and boil it till it looks as black as ink.  If
it rises too  fast, add cold water,  strain  it through
a bag, and though at first it will be black, continue
to strain it until it becomes quite clear; which may
be seen by putting the syrup in a glass.  Put it
back until it  comes out as fine as clarified loaf  su-
gar.
         To improve and increase sugar-
  To 5 lbs.  ot coarse  brown sugar, add 1  lb. ol
flour, and there will be obtained 6  lbs. of  sugar
worth 10 per cent, more in colour and quality.
                 Starch sugar.
  Mix 100 parts of starch with 200 of water, an<|
add to it  gradually another 200 of Avater, previous-
ly mixed with one of oil of vitriol, and brought to
a boiling heat in a tinned copper vessel; keep  the
mixture boiling for thirty-six hours, and occasion-
ally  add  water to keep up the original  quantity,
then add some powdered  charcoal and also  some
chalk to get rid of the acid; strain and evaporate it
by a gentle heat to the consistence ofa syrup, and
set by to crystallize.
                 Birch sugar.
  Wound the trees in the spring of the year by borr
ing a hole under a large arm  of the tree quite
through the wood as far as the bark of the opposite
side; collect the sap which flows from ihe wound,
and evaporate it to a proper consistence:  these  are
the native sugars of cold countries, and might be
made in England  for all the purposes of home con-
sumption.
              To make pear sugar.
  It is obtained by  expressing  the juice, adding
chalk to remove the superabundant acid, and eva-
porating it to a due consistence; it does not crys-
tallize, and is a kind of white treacle.   One hun-
dred weight of apples yielus about 84 lbs. of this
juice,  which will produce nearly 12 lbs. of this
substance.
,                Grape sugar.
  The browp sugar obtained  from  grapes by  the
usual  process, being previously freed from  the
acids and sulphate   of  lime  that existed in the
original juipe, yields by refining 75 per cent, of a
white granular sugar, 24 of a kind of treacle with a
little gum, and some malale of lime.
              To candy orange peel.
  Soak the peels  in co.d water, which change fre-
quently till they lose their bitterness; then put them
into syrup till they become  soft  and transparent.
Then they are to be taken out and drained.
                  Lemon peel.
  This is made by  boiling lemon peel with sugar,
and then exposing to the  air until the sugar crys-
tallizes. 
182
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
            To colour candied sugar.
   Iied.—lio\\ an oz. of cochineal in half a pint of
 water for 5 minutes, add an oz. of cream of tartar,
 half an oz. ot pounded alum, and boil them on a
 slow  fire 10 minutes; if it shows the colour clear on
 white paper, it is sufficient.  Add 2 oz. of sugar,
 and bottle it for use.
   Blue.—Put a little warm water on a plate, and
 rub an  indigo-stone in it till the colour has come
 to the tint required.
   Yellow.—Rub with some water alittle gambcge
 on a  plate; or infuse the heart of a yellow lily
 flower with milk-warm water.
   Green.—Boil the leaves of spinach about a mi-
 nute in a little water, and when strained bottle the
 liquor for use.—In colouring refined sugais, taste
 and fancy must guide.
           To make devices in sugar.
  Steep gum  tragacanth i i rose-water, and  with
 douSle refined sugar make it into a paste, and co-
 lour and mould it to fancy.
                Whipt  syllabub.
  Rub  a lump of loaf sugar on the outside  of  a
 lemon,  and put it into a pint of  thick cream, and
 sweeten it to  taste.   Squeeze in  the juice  of  a
 lemon, and add a glass of Madeira Avine, or French
 brandy.   Mill it to a froth with a chocolate  mill,
 take oft" the froth as it  rises, and lay it in a hair
 sieve.   Fill one half of the glass Avith red wine,
 then lay the froth as high as possible, but take care
 that it is  Avell drained  in the sieve, otherwise  it
 will mix with the wine, and the syllabub be spoiled.
                Solid syllabub.
  To  a  quart of rich  cream put  a quart of white
 wine, the juice of two lemons, with the rind of one
 grated,  and sweeten it to taste.   Whip it up well
 ind take off the froth as it rises.   Put it upon a
 hiir sieve, and let  it stand in a cool place till the
 next day.  Then half fill the glasses with the scum,
 and heap  up  the froth  as high as possible.   The
 bottom will look clearand it will keep several days.
                  Snow balls.
  Pare  and take out the cores of five large baking
 apples, and fill the holes  with orange or quince mar-
 r ilade.   Then take some good hot paste, roll the
 apples in it, and make the crust  of an equal thick-
 ness; put them in a tin dripping pan, bake them in
a moderate oven,and Avhen taken out, make iceing
 for them; let the same be a \ of an inch thick, and
 set them a good distance from the fire until  they
 become hardened, but be cautious that they are
 not browned.
                  Capilluire.
  Mix six eggs well beat up, with fourteen pounds
 of loaf sugar, and 3 pounds of coarse sugar.  Put
 them into three quarts of water, boil it twice, skim
it well, and add a \ of a pint of" orange flower wa-
 ter; strain it through  a  jelly-bag, and put it into
 bottles for use.   A spoonful or two of this syrup
 put into  a draught of either cold or warm water,
 makes it drink exceedingly pleasant.
          Tv make confectionary drops.
  Take  double  refined sugar, pound and  sift it
 throegh a hair sieve, not too fine; and  then sift it
 through a silk sieve, to  take out  all the fine  dust,
which would destroy the beauty  of the drop.  Put
the sugar into a clean pan, and moisten •■ w,th any
favourite aromatic; if rose-water, pour it in slowly,
 stirring it with a paddle, which the sugar will fall
from,  as soon as it is moist enough, without stick-
 ing.   Colour it with a small quantity of liquid car-
 mine, or any oilier olour, ground  fine.  Take  a
 small  pan with a lip, fill it three  parts with paste,
 place  it on a small stove, the half hole being of the
 size of the pan, and stir the sugar with a little ivoiy
or bone handle, until it  becomes liquid.   When it
almost boils, take it from the fire and  continue  to
t  stir it; if it be too moist take a little of the pow-
  dered sugar, and add a  spoonful  to the paste,  and
  stir it till it is of such a consistence as to run with-
  out too much extension.   Have  a tin plate, very
  clean and smooth; take  the little pan in the  left
  hand, and hold in the right a bit of iron, copper or
  silver wire, four inches long, to- take off the diop
  from the lip of the pan, and let it fall regularly ob
|  the tin plate; two hours afterAvards  take  off the
  drops with the blade of a knife.
                  Chocobite  drops.
   Scrape the chocolate to prwder, and put an ounce
  to each pound of sugar; moisten the paste with
  clear water, work it as above, only take care to use
  all  the paste prepared, as, if it be put on the  fire
  a second time, it greases, and the drop is not of the
  proper thickness.
               Orange flower drops.
   These are made as the sugar drops,  only using
  orange flower water; or instead  of it, use the es-
  sence of naroli, which  is the essential  oil of that
  flower.
                   Coffee drops.
   An ounce of coffee to a pound of sugar will form
  a strong  decoction; when cleared, use it to mois-
  ten the sugar, and then  make the drops as above.
                Peppermint drops.
   The only requisites to make these are, extreme
  cleanliness, the finest sugar, and a few drops of the
  essence of peppermint.
                   Clove drops.
   These are' made  as  the cinnamon drops,  the
  cloves being pounded, or the essence used.  Good
  cloves should be black,  heavy, of a pungent smel),
  hot to the taste, and full of oil.
                  Ginger drops.
   Pound and sift through a  silk sieve the required
  quantity of ginger, according tp the strength want-
  ed, and add it to the sugar with clear  water. China
  ginger is the best, being aromatic as well as  hot
  and sharp tasted.
                Licptorice lozenges.
   Take of extract of liquorice, double refined su-
|  gar, each  10 oz.—tragacanth, powdered, 3  oz.
  Powder them thoroughly, and make them into lo-
I  zenges with rose-water.—These are agreeable peo-
|  torals,  and*may,be  used at  pleasure in tickling
I  coughs.   The above receipt  is the easiest and best
•  mode of  making  these lozenges.  Refined extract
 of liquorice shpuld be used; and  it is easily pow-
 dered in  the cold, after  it has been laid  for some
 days in a dry and rather warm place.
               Extract of liquorice.
   The liquorice root is  to be boiled in eight times
  its  weight of water, to one half; the liquor is then
 to Ve expressed, and after the fasces have subsided,
 to be filtered; it is then to  be evaporated, with a
 heat between 200° and 212°, until it becomes thick-
 ish; and, lastly, it is to  be evaporated with a heat
 less than 200°, and frequently stirred, until it  ac-
 quires a cousistence proper  for forming pills. This
 is  made into little  pastils,  or flat  cakes, often
  bearing the impression of  the  places where they
 are made:  and  a bit now  and then  put into  the
 mouth lakes off  the tickling of a cough.  It should
 be sucked to make it pleasant, as much of the juice
 taken at a lime is unpleasant.
             7'e prepare  liquorice jiuce.
   Take up the roots in July; clean them perfectly
 as soon as out of the earth,  then hang them up in
 the air, till nearly dry; after this cut them into thin
 slices, and boil them in  water till the decoction is
 extremely strong; then  pros it hard out to obtain
 all the ju:ce from the roots.   This decoction is  left
 to settle  a little, and when  it has deposited  its
 coarser parts, pour it ofl" into vessels, evaporate it
 over a fire, strong first,  but mild afterwards till it 
CONFECTIONARY.
183
Becomes of a thick consistence; then let the fire go
out, and when the extract is cool  take  out large
parcels of it at a time, and work them well with
the hands, forming them into cylindric masses,
which cut into such lengths as required, roll them
over half-dried bay leaves, which adhere to their
surfaces, and leave them exposed to the sun, till
perfectly dried.  Great nicety is to be observed at
the end  of the evaporation, to get the extract to a
proper consistence without letting it burn.
              Refined liquorice.
  That  description of article which is vended in
thin, rounded, and glazed pieces, about the thick-
ness of a crow's quill, is entirely preparea in this i
country. The whole process consists  in evaporat- |
ing the  liquorice-ball aneAv, and  purifying it by
rest, with the help of isinglass, Sec.
          To candy orange marmalade.
  Cut the clearest Seville oranges into  two, take
out all the juice  and pulp into a basin, and pick all
the skins and seeds out of it.  Boil the rinds in hard
water till they become tender, and change the wa-
ter two  or three times  while they  are boiling.
Then pound them in a marble mortar, and add to
it the juice and  pulp; put them  next into a pre-
serving pan  with double their weight in loaf sugar,
and set it over a  slow fire. Boil it rather more than
half an hour, put it into pois; cover it with brandy
paper, and tie it close down.
        To make transparent marmalade.
  Cut very pale Seville oranges into quarters; take
out the pulp, put it into a basin, and pick out the
skins and  seeds.  Put  the  peels into a little salt
and water, and let them stand  all  night, then  boil
them in a good quantity of spring water until they
are lender; cut them in  very thin slices, and put
them into the pulp. To every pound of marmalade
put one  pound and a half of double refined beaten
sugar; boil them together gently for 20 minutes;
if they are not transparent,  boil  them a few  mi-
nutes longer.  Stir it gently all the time, and take
care not to breas the slices.   When it is cold, put
it into jelly and sweetmeat glasses tied down tight.
             Barberry marmalade.
  Mash the  barberries in a little water, on  a warm
stove; pass them through a  hair sieve AviUi a pad-
dle; weigh the pulp and put it back  «n the fire;
reduce it to  one  half, clarify a pom** of sugar and
boil it well; put in the pulp, and boil it together
for a few minutes.
              Quince marrtalj.de.
  Take quinces  that are <ju«te ripe, pare and cut
them in quarters, take put the cores, put them in
a stew-pan  with spring  water, nearly enough to
cover them, keep mem closely  covered and  let
them stew gently till they are quite soft and red,
then mash  and  rub them through  a hair sieve.
Put them  in a pan over a gentle fire, with as much
thick clarified sugar as the weight of  the quinces;
boil them an hour and  stir the whole  time with a
wooden spoon to prevent its sticking: put it into
pots and when cold tie them down.
              Scotch marmalade.
  Take  of the juice of Seville oranges, 2 pints,—
yellow honey, 2 lbs.  Boil to a proper  consistence.
                Hartshorn jsily.
  Boil half a pound of hartshorn in three quarts of
water over a gentle fire till it becomes a jelly; when
a little hangs on  a spoon it is done enough.  Strain
it hot, put it into a well  tinned saucepan, and add
to  it half a pint of Rhenish wine, and  a quarter of
a pound of hit' sugar. Beat the whites of four eggs
or more to a froth, stir it sufficiently for the whites
to  mix well with the jelly, and pour it in as if cool-
ing it.   Boil it two or three minutes, then pu in
the juice  of four lemons, and let it boil two mi-
nutes longer.  When it is finely curdled and of a
pure white, pour it into a swan-skin jelly bag over
a China basin, and pour it back again until it be-
comes as clear as rock-water; set a very clean Chi-
na basin under, fill the glasses, put some thin le-
mond rind into ihe basin, and when the jelly is all
run out of the bag, with a clean spoon fill the rest
of the glasses, and  they will look of a fine amber
coloui.   Put in lemon and sugar agreeable to the
palate.
                 Whipt cream.
  Mix the wnites  of  eight eggs, a quart of thick
cream, and half a  pint of sack, sweeten them to
taste with double refined sugar. It  may be per-
fumed with  a little musk or ambergris tied in a
rag and steeped in  a little cream. Whip it up with
a whisk,  and  some lemon-peel tied in the middle
of the whisk.   Then lay the froth with  a spoon in
the glasses or basins.
               Pistachio cream.
  Beat half a pound of pistachio nut kernels in a
mortar with a spoonful of brandy.  Put them into
a pan with a  pint of good cream, and the yolks of
two eggs beaten fine.   Stir it gently over  the fire
till it grows  thick, at.d then put it  into a China
soup  plate.   When it is cold  stick it over with
small pieces of the nuts, and send it to  table.
                  Ice cream.
  To a pound of any preserved fruit add  a quart
pf good  cream, squeeze the juice  of two  lemons
into it and some sugar to taste.  Let  the whole be
rubbed through a fine hair sieve, and If raspberry,
strawberry, or any red fruit, add a  little cochineal
to heighten the colour; have the freezing pot  nice
and clean; put the cream into it and cover  it; then
put it into the tub with ice  beat small, and  some
salt; turn the freezing pot ^uick, and as the cream
sticks to  the sides,  scrape  it dowu with an ice
spoon, and so on till  it is frozen.  The more the
cream is worked >.o the side with  the  spoon, the
smoother and better flavoured it will be.  After it
is well frozen, take it out and put it into ice-shapei
with salt and ice; then  carefully wash  the shapes
for fear of any salt adhering to them; dip them it
lukewarm water and  send them to table.
  Another method.—Bruise two pottles of straw
berries in a basin with half a pint of good  cream.
a little currant jelly, and some cold  clarified sugar,
rub this well through the tammy, and put it  in an
ice pot well covered; then set it in a tub of broken
ice with plenty of salt; when it grows thick about
the sides, stir it with  a  spoon, and cover it  close
again till it  is  perfectly frozen through; cover  it
well with ice and  salt both under and over, and
when it is frozen change it into a mould and cover
well with ice.  Sweeten a  little plain cream with
sugar an 1 orange  flower water, and treat it the
same; likewise any other fruit, .vilhout cream, may
be mixed as above.   This is called water ice.
                 Curi'ant jelly.
  Take the juice of red  currants, 1  lb. sugar, 6 oz.
Boil down.
  Another method.—Take the juice  of red currants,
add white sugar, equal quantities.
  Stir it gently and smoothly for three  hours, put
it into glasses, and in three days it will concrete
into a firm jelly.
              Black currant jelly.
  Put to  ten quarts of ripe dry black currants, one
quart of  water; put them in a large stew-pot, tie
paper close over them, and set them for two hours
in a cool  oven.  Squeeze them through a fine cloth,
and add to every quart of juice a pound  and a half
of loaf sugar broken into small pieces.  Stir it till
the sugar is  melted;  when it boils, skim it quite
clean. Boil it pretty quick over a clear fire, till it
jellies, which is known by dipping a skimmer in-
to the jelly and holding it in the air; when it hangs 
184                          UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK,
 an egg to those you have already set aside, and
 whip them to the consistency of snow; then amal-
 gamate the whipped whites of eggs and the cream,
 blu-ring them with a light and equal baud, pour the
 contents into a deep dish, sift over with double re-
 fined sugar, and place  the dish on a stove, with a
 fire over it as well as under, and in a quarter of an
 hour the oream will rise like an omelette souffle; as
 soon as it rises about 4 inches, it is fit to serve up.
                  Orgeat paste.
   Blanch and pound three quarters of a pound of
 sweet,  and a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds;
 pound  them in a mortar, and wet them sufficiently
 with ORi.igc flower water,  that they may  not oil,
 When  they are  pounded fine, add three quarters of
 a pound of fine powdered sugar to them, and mix
 the whole in a stiff paste, which put  into pods for
 use.  It will keep six months;  wiien wanted to
 be used, take a piece about the size of an egg, and
 mix  it  Avith  half a pint cf water, and squeeze it
 through a napkin.
               Pate de Guimauve.
   Take of decoction of marshmallow roots, 4 oz.
 Avater,  1 gallon.   Boil  4 pints and strain; then add
 gum arabic, £ a lb. refined sugar, 2 lbs.  Evaporate
 to an extract, then take from the fire, stir it quick-
 ly Avith the whites  of 12 eggs, previously beaten to
 a froth; then 'add,  whi.e stirring, ^ oz. of  orange-
 flower  water.
   Another.—Take of very white gum arabic, and
 white sugar, each 2£ lbs. with a sufficient quantity
 of boiling water.   Dissolve, strain,  and evaporate
i without boiling, to the consistence of honey:  beat
| up die white  of  six eggs with  four drachms  of
I orange-flower water, which mix gradually with the
 paste,  and evaporate over a slow fire, stirring it
 continually till  it will  not  stick to the fingers; it
 should  be very light, spongy, and extremely white.
                Pate de jujubes.
   Take of raisins stoned,  1  lb.—currants picked,
jujubes, opened,  each  4 oz.—water, a sufficient
 quantity.   Boil; strain with expression, add sugar,
 2$ lbs.  gum arabic, 2£ lbs. previously made into a
 mucilage with some water, and  strain; evaporate
 gently, pour into  moulds, finish by drying in a
 stove,  &n,i then divide  it.
to the spoon in a drop, It is done.  If the jelly is
boiled too long, it will lose  its flavour and shrink
very much.   Pour it into  pots, cover  them with
brandy papers, and keep thein  in a dry place.  Red
and white jellies are made in the same  way
                  Apple jelly.
  Take of apple juice strained, 4 lbs. sugar, 1 lb.
Boil to a jelly.
                Strawberry jelly.
  Take of the juice of strawberries, 4 lbs.  sugar,
2 lbs.  Boil down.
                Gooseberry jelly.
  Dissolve sugw in about half its weight of water,
and boil: it will be nearly solid when cold; to this
syrup add an equal Aveightof gooseberry juice, and
give it a boil, but  not long, for  olherAvise it will
not fix.
               Raspberry  cream.
  Rub a quart of raspberries through a hair sieve,
and take out the seeds, and mix it well with cream;
sweeten it with sugar to your taste, then put it in-
to a stone jug,  and raise a froth Avith a chocolate
mill.  As the froth rises, take it oft" with a spoon,
and lay it upon a  hair sieve.   When  there is as
much froth as Avanted, put Avhat  cream  remains in
a deep China dish, and pour the frothed cream up-
on it, as high as it will lie on.
                Raspberry jam.
  Mash'a quantity of fine  ripe diy raspberries,
strew on them their own  weight of loaf srgar, and
half their  weight  of  white  currant  juice.   Boil
them half an hour over a clear sloiv fire, skim them
well, and put them into pets or  glasses; tie  them
down with brandy papers,  and keep  them dry.
StreAV on the sugar as quick as possible after the
berries are gathered, and in order to preserve their
flavour they must not stand long before boiling
them.
                Strawberry jau\.
  Bruise very fine some  scarlet  strawberries, ga-
thered when quite i ipe, and put to them a little juice
of red currants.   Beat and  sift their weight in su-
gar, strew it over  them, «md put them  into a pre-
serving pan. Set them over a clear slow fire, skim
them, then  boil them 20 minutes, and put  them
into glasses.
                Raspberry paste.
  Mash a quart of raspberries, strain one half and
put the juice to the other half; boil them a quarter
of an hour, put to them a pint of red currant juice,
and let them boil all together,  till the raspberries
are done enough.  Then put l^ lbs. of double re-
fined sugar into a clean pan, with as much water as
will dissolve it, boil it to a  sugar again; then put
in (lie raspberries  and juice, scald and pour them
into glasses.  Put  them  into a stove to dry, and
turn them Avhen necessary.
                Damson cheese.
  Boil the fruit in a sufficient quantity of water to
cover it; strain  the pulp through a very coarse
sieve; to each lb.  add 4 oz.  of sugar.  Boil  ft till
it begins to candy  on the sides, then  pour it into
tin moulds.   Other kinds of plums may be treated
in the same way, as also cherries, and several kinds
of fruit.
               An omelette souffle.
  Put 2 oz.  of the powder of chesnuts  into a skil-
let, then add 2 yolks of new laid eggs, and dilute
the whole wim a little cream, or even  a little wa-
ter; Avhen this is done, and the ingredients well rolw-
ed, leaving no lumps, add a bit  of the best fresh
butter,  about the size  of an egg,  and an  equal
quantity of powdered sugar; then put  the skillet
on  the fire, and keep stirring  the contents;  when
the  cream  is   fixed s>nd   thick enough to ad-
here to the spoon, let it bubble up once or twi-e,
and take «t from the fire; then add a third white  of
                 PICKLING.'

  This branch of domestic economy comprises a
great variety of articles, which are essentially ne-
cessary to the convenience 0f families.   It is at the
same time loo  prevalent a practice to make use o|
brass utensils  to give  pickle x fine colour.   This
 fierniciousNcustom is easily avoided by heating the
 iquor, aud keeping it in a proper degree of warmth
before it  is  poured upon the piekV;.   Stone jars
are the best adapted for sound keepVig.  Pickles
should never be handled with the finge«s, but by «
spoon kept for  the purpose.
               To  pickle onions.       '
  Put a sufficient quauMty into salt and water for
nine days, observing to change the water every uay;
next put  them  into jars and pour fresh boiliug salt
and water over them, cover them close up till they
are cold,  then  make a second decoction of salt and
water, and pour it on boiling.  When it is cold,
drain the onions on  a hair sieve, and put them Into
Wide-mouthed boilles; fill them  up with distilled
vinegar;  put into every bo.de a slice or two of gin-
ger, a blade of mace,  and a tea-spoonful of  sweet
oil; which will keep the onions Avhite.   Cork them
well up in a dry place.
              To makesaur kraut.
  Take a large strong wooden vessel, or cask re-
sembling a salt-beef cask, and capable of contain- 
PICKLING.                                      |8§
ing as  much as is  sufficient for the winter's con-
sumption of a family.   Gradually break  down or
shop  the cabbages  (deprived  of outside green
leaA-es),  into very small pieces; begin with one or
two cabbages at the bottom  of  the cask, and add
others at intervals, pressing them by means  of  a
wooilen spade against the side of  the cask, until it
is full.   Then place a heavy weight  upon the top
of it, and allow it to stand near to a warm place, for
four or five days.   By this time it will have under-
gone fermentation, and be ready for  use.  Whilst
the cabbages are  passing  through the process of
fermentation, a vety disagreeable, fetid, acid smell
is exhaled from them; now remove  the  cask to a
uool  situation, and keep  it always covered  up.
Strew  aniseeds among the layers of the  cabbages
during its preparation, Avhich communicates a pe-
culiar  flavour to the saur kraut  at an  after period.
   In boiling it for the table, two hours are the pe-
riod for  it to be on the fire.  It firms an  excellent
nutritious and antiscorbutic food for  winter use.
           Peccalilli—Indian mt.thod.
   This consists of all kinds of  pickles mixed and
put into  one large jar-^girkins, sliced cucumbers,
button onions, cauliflowers, broken in pieces.  Salt
them,  or put them in a large hair sieve in the sun
to dry  for three days, then scald them in  vinegar a
feAV minutes; when cold put them together.  Cut
a large white cabbage in quarters, ivith the outside
leaves taken off and cut fine, salt it,  and put it in
the sun to dry for three or four days; then scald  it
in vinegar, the same as cauliflower,  carrots, three
parts, boiled in vinegar and a little bay salt. French
beans, rack samphire,  reddish pods, and mastur-
chions, all go through the same process as girkins,  I
capsicums, &c.  To one gallon of vinegar put four  |
ounces of  ginger bruised,  two  ounces  of whole
white  pepper, two ounces of allspice, half an ounce
of chillies bruised, four ounces  of  turmeric, one
pound of the best musta"d, half  a pound of shallots,
one ounce of garlic, and half a pound of bay salt.
The vinegar, spice,  and other ingred:ents, except
the mustard, must boil half an hour; then strain  it
into a pan, put the mustard into a large basin, with
a little vinegar; mix  it quite fine and tree from
lumps, then add more;  when well mixed put it to
the vinegar just strained  off, and when quite cold
put the pickles into a large pan, and the liquor over
them; stir them repeatedly, so as to  mix them all;
finally, put  them into ajar, and tie them over first
with a bladder, and afterwards  Avith  leather.  The
capsicums want no preparation.
               is pickle samphire.
   Put Avhat quantity wanted into a clean pan, throw
over it two or three handsful of  salt, and cover it
 with spring water for twenty-four hours; next put
 it into a clean saucepan, throw  in a handful of salt,
and cover  it with good vinegar-  Close the  pan
tight,  set  it over a slow fire,  and let it stand till
the samphire is green and crisp; then take it off
 instantly, for shndd it remain  lift il  is soft, it will
 be totally spoiled.   l"ut it into  the  pickling pot
and cover it close, when it is quite cold tie it down
 Avith a bladder and leather, and  set  it by for use.
Samphire may be preserved all the  year by keep-
ing it  in a very strong brine of salt and water, and
 just before using  it put it  for a  few minutes into
 some  of the best vinegar.
                  Mushrooms.
   Put the smallest that can be  got into spring wa-
 ter, and  rub them with a piece of new flannefdip-
 ped in salt.  Throw them into cold water as they
arc cleaned, which will make them  keep their co-
 lour: next put them into a saucepan with a  handful
 of salt,  upon them.   Cover them close, and set
 them  over  the fire four or five  minutes, or till the
 heal draws  the liquor from them; next lay them be-
       Y
twixt tAvo dry cloths till they are cold; put them
into glass bottles and fill them up with distilled vi-
negar, with a blade of mace and a tea-spoonful of
sweet oil into every bottle; cork Ihem up close and
set them in a dry cool place; as a substitute for dis-
tilled  vinegar, use white  wine vinegar,  or ale.
Allegar will  do, but it must be boiled with a little
mace,  salt, and afew slices of ginger, and it mti3t be
quite  cold before  it  is poured upon  the mush-
rooms.
   Another method.—Bruise a quantity of  well
grown flaps  of mushrooms with the  hands, and
then strew a fair proportion of salt  over them; let
them stand all night, and  the next day put them
into stewpans;  set them in a quick oven for 12
hours, and strain them through a hair  sieve.   To
every  gallon of liquor put of cloves, Jamaica black
pepper, and ginger, one ounce each,  ^ a lb. of com-
mon salt; set it on a slow  tire, an \ let it  boiv till
half the liquor is wasted; then put it into a clean
pot, and when cold bottle it for use.
                   Cucumbers.
   Let them be as free from spots as possible; take
the smallest  that can be got, put them  into strong
salt and water for nine days, till they become yel-
low; stir them at least twice a day; should they be-
come perfectly yellow, pour the water off and co-
ver them with plenty of vine leaves.   Set the water
over the fire, and when it boils, pour it over them,
and set them upon the earth to keep warm- When
the water is  almost cold make it boil again, and
pour it upon them; proceed thus till they are of a
fine green, Avhich  they will be in four or five
times; keep  them well covered with vine leaves,
 with a cloth and dish over the top  to  keep in the
 steam, which will help to green them.
   When they are greened put them in  a hair sieve
to drain, and  then to every two quarts of white
 wine vinegar put  half an ounce of mace, ten or
twelve cloves,  an ounce of ginger, cut  into slices,
 an ounce of  black pepper, and a handful of sail.
 Boil them all together, for  five minutes; pour it hot
on the pickles, and tie them down for use.  They
 may also be  pickled Avith ale, ale vinegar, or dis-
 tilled  vinegar, and adding three or  four cloves ol
 garlic and shallots.
                 Walnuts  while.
   Pare green walnuts very thin till the white ap-
 pears, then ihi'OAv them  into spring water Avith  a
 handful of salt, keep them under water six hours,
 ihen put them into a  stew-pan to simmer five mi-
 uutes, but do not let them  boil; take them out and
 put them in  cold water and salt; they must be kept
 quite under the water with a board, otherwisejhey
 will not pickle white; then lay them on a cloth and
 cover  them  with  another to dry; carefully rub
 them with a soft cloth, and put them into the jar,
 with some blades of mace and nutmeg  sliced  thin.
 Mix the spice betAveen the nuts and pour distilled
 vinegar over them; when the jar is full of nuts pour
 mutton fat over them, and  tie ihem  close down
 with a bladder and leather to keep  out the air.
              Artificial anchovies.
   To  a peck of sprats pu. two pounJs of salt, three
 ounces of bay salt, one po'.rid of  salt-pttre, two
 ounces of prunella, and a few grains of cochineal;
 pound all in a mortar, put into a stone pan first a
 layer  of sprats and then one of the compound, and
 so on alternately to the top.  Press them down
 hard;  cover  them close for six months, and  they
 will be ft foi use, and will really produce a most
 excellent flavoured sauce.
                    Salmon.
   Boil the fish gently till done, and then take it up,
! strain the liquor, add  bay leaven,  pepper corns,
| and salt; give these a boil, and when cold  add the
I best vinegar to them; then put the whole sufficicut-
                                     u  •* 
IP.6
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
 ly over the fish to cover it, and let it remain  a
 mouth at least.
            To preserve fish by sugar.
   Fish may be preserved in a dry state, and  per-
 fectly fresh,  by means  of sugar alone, and  even
 with a very small quantity of it.
   Fresh fish  may be kep't in  that state for some
 days, so as to be  as good when boiled as  if just
 caught.   If dried, and kept free from mouldiiiess,
 there  seems no  limit to their  preservation; anil
 they are  much better in this way thanwhen salted.
 The sugar gives no disagreeable laste.
   This process is particularly valuable  in making
 what is called kippjred salmon; and  the fish pre-
 served in this manner are far superior in quality
 and  flavour to those which are  salted or smoked.
 If desired, as much salt may be used as to give the
 taste that may be required; but this substance  does
 not conduce to .heir preservation.
  In the  preparation it is barely necessary to open
 the fish, and to  apply the sugar to the muscular
 parts, placing it  in a horizontal position for 2 or 3
 days, that this substance may penetrate.  After this
 il may be dried;  and it is only further necessary to
 wipe and ventilate it occasionally, to prevent moo-
 diness.
  A table spoonful of brown sugar is sufficient in
 this  manner for a salmon of 5 or 6 pounds weight;
 and if salt is  desired, a tea-spoonful or more  may
 be added.  Saltpetre may be used instead, in the
 same proportion, if it is desired to make the kipper
 hard.
                  To salt hams.
  For three hams, pound and mix together half a
 peck of salt,  half an ounce of salt prunella, three
 ounces of salt-petre, and  four pounds of coarse
 sail; rub  the hams well with this, and lay what is
 to spare o\er thein, let them lie three  days, then
 hang them up.   Take  the  pickle in  which the
 bams were, put  water enough  to cover the hams
 Avith more common  salt, till it will bear an egg,
 then boil  and  skim it well, put it in the salting tub,
 and the next morning put it to the hams;  keep them
 down the same as pickled pork; in a fortnight take
 them out of the liquor, rub them well with brine,
and hang them up to dry.
           To dry salt beef and pork.
  Lay the meat on a table or in a tub with a dou-
ble bottom, that the brine may drain off as fast as
 il forms,  rub the salt well in, and be careful  to ap-
 ply it to every niche; aftenvards put it into either
of the above utensils, whin it must be  frequently
turned; after the  brine has ceased running, it must
be quite  b'Hied  in salt, and kept closely packed.
 Meat which has had the bones taken out is the  best
for salting. In some places the salted meat is press-
 ed by heavy  weights or  a screAv,  to extract the
 moisture  sooner.
              To pickle in brine.
  A  good brine is made of bay salt and water, |
 thoroughly saturated, so that some of the salt re- j
 mains undissolved; into this brine  the  substances
 to be preserved  are plunged, and kept  covered j
 with it.  Among vegetaoles, French beans, arti- |
 chokes, olives, and thj different sorts of samphire
 may  be thus preserved, and among animals, her-
rings.
  7'o salt by another method.—Mix brown sugar,
 bay salt,  common salt, each 2 lbs. salt-petre, 8 oz.
 water, 2 gallons;  this pickle gives meats a fir.e red
 eolour, while ihe sugar renders them mi.'d and of
excellent flavour.—Large quantities are to be  ma-
 naged by the  above proportions.
       TO PRESERVE FRUITS.

Some rules are necessary to be observed in this
 branch of confectionary.   In  the first  place, ob-
 serve  in  making  syrups  that  the sugar is  well
 pounded and dissolved, before it  is placed on the
 fire, otherwise their scum will not rise well, nor
 the fruit obtain its fine colour.   When stone fruit
 is preserved, Cover them with mutton suet render-.
 ed, to exclude the  air, which is sure ruin to them,
 All wet sweetmeats must be kept dry and cool to
 preserve them from mouldiiiess and'damp. Dip a
 piece of writing paper in brandy, lay  k close to
 the sweetmeats, cover them  tight with paper, and
 they will keep well for any length of time; but will
 inevitably spoil without these precautions.
   Another method.—The fruit, if succulent, is first
 soaked for some hours in very hard water, or in a
 weak alum water, to  harden it, and then to be
 drained upon the fruit, eitlier prepared or not;  poui
 syrup, boiled  to a  candy height, and halt cold; uf.
 ter some hours the syrup, weakened by the sauce
 of the fruit, is to be poured off, re-boiled, and pour-
 ed on again, and ihis repeat several times.  When
 the syrup is judged to be no longer weakened, the
 fruit is to be taken out of it, and well drained.
               To bottle damsons.
   Put damsons, before they arc too ripe, into wide
 mouthed bottles, and cork them down tight;  then
 put them into a moderately heated oven, and about
 three hours more will do them; observe that ihe
 oven is not too hot, otherwise it will  make the
 fruit fly.  All kinds of fruits that are bottled  may
 be done in the same  way,  and they  will  keep twe
 years; after they are done, they must be put awaj
 with ihe mouth downward, in a coel place, to keer
 them from fermenting.
            To preserve barberries.
  Set an equal quantity of barberries and sugar in
a kettle of boiling water, till the sugar is melted,
and the barberries  quite soft; let them  remain all
night.   Put them next day into a  preserving  pan,
and boil them fifteen minutes,  then  put them into
 jars, tie them close, and set them by for use.
              To preserve grapes.
  Take close bunches, whether white or red, not
too ripe, and lay them in a jar.   Put to them a
quarter ofa pound  of sugar candy, and fill the jar
with common  brandy.   Tie them up close with a
bladder, and set them in a dry place.
                To dry cherries.
  Having stoned the desired quantity of morello
cherries, put a pound and a quarter oi fine sugar to
every pound; beat and sift it over Ihe cherries, and
let tnem stand all night.  Take them out of their
sugar, and to every  pound of sugar, put two spoons-
ful of water.  Boil and skim it well, and then put
in the cherries; boil the sugar over ihem, and  next
morning strain them, and to every pound of syrup
put half a pound more sugar; boil* it till  it is a lit-
tle thicker, then  put in  the cherries and let them
boil gently.   The next day strain them,  put ihem
in a  stove, and turn them every day till they are
dry.
               To clarify honey.
  The best kind is clarified by merely melting it
in a water bath, and taking off the scum; the mid--
dling kind by dissolving it  in  water, adding the
white of an egg to each pint of the solution,  and
boiling it down to  its original consistence, skim-
ming it from time  to time.  The inferior kind re--
quires solution in water, boiling the solution with
one pound of charcoal to 25 lbs. of honey, adding,
when an excess  of acid is apprehended, a small
quantity of chalk or oyster shell poAvder; next by
straining it several times through flannel, and re-
ducing the solution to its original consistence b)
evaporation.
       To present candied orange flowers.
  Free them from  their cup9, stamina and pistil*,
 put four ounces into one pound of sugar, boiled to
I 
PERFUMERY, &c.
187
» candy height, and poured on a slab, so as to  be
formed into cakes.
         Seeds in honey for vegetation.
  Seeds of fruits, or thin stalk strips, may be pre-
served by being put into honey; and on being taken
nut, washed, ami planted, they will vegetate kindly.
        Fruits in brandy or otiier spirits.
  Gather plums, apricots, cherries,  peaches, and
other juicy fruits, before they are perfect'/ ripe,
and  soak them for  some hours  in hard or alum
water, to make them firm; as the moisture of the
fruit weakens the spirit, it ought to be  strong,
therefore, add five ounces of sugar to each quart
of spirit.
              Seville oranges whole.
  Cuta hole at  the  stem end of the oranges, the
size  W sixpence, take out all  the  pulp, put the
oranges  in cold water for two  days, changing it
twice a day;  boil them rather more than an hour,
but do not  cover them, as it will spoil the colour;
have  ready  a good  syrup,  into which  put the
oranges, and boil them till they look clear; then
take out the  seeds, skins, &c. from the pulp first
'taken  out of the oranges, and add to it one of the
whole oranges,  previously boiled, with an equal
weight of sugar to it and the  pulp: boil this toge-
ther till it  looks clear, over a slow fire, and when
cold fill the oranges Avith this marmaiaile, a.id put
on the tops; cover them with tyrup, and p1 * bran-
dy paper on the  top of the jar.  It is better to take
out the inside at first, to preserve the fine flavour
of the juice and pulp, which would be injured by
boiling in the water.
             Cucumbers and melons.
  Take  large cucumbers,  green, and free from
seed, put them in a jar of strong salt and water,
with vine leaves on the top,  set them by the fire
side till they are yellow; then wash und set them
over a slow fire  in alum and  water, covered with
vine leaves, let them boil till they become green;
take them off, and let them stand in the liquor till
cold: then  quarter them, and  take out the seed and
pulp: put them  in cold spring water, charging it
twice a day for  three days.  Have ready a syrup
made  thus: to one  pound  of loaf sugar,  half an
ounce of ginger bruised, with as much water as
will wet it; when it is quite  free from scum,  put
in,  when boiling, the rind  of a  lemon and juice;
when quite" cold, pour the syrup on the  melons.
If the  syrup is too thin, after  standing two or three
days, boil it again, and add a little more sugar. A
spoonful of rum gives it the  West Indian flavour.
Girkins may be done in the same way. One ounce
of alum, Aihcn pounded, is sufficient for a dozen
 melons ofa middling size.
PERFUMERY
           7 o make eau de Cotogi^e.
  Take of essence de bergamotte, 3 oz. neroli,
drachms, cedrat, 2 do., lemon, 3 do., oil of rose-
mary, 1 do., spirit ot wine, 12 lus., spirit of rose-
mary, 3$ do., eau de melisse  de Cannes, 24. do.
Mix.  Distil  in balneum maiia;, and keep  it in a
cold cellar or icehouse for some time.  It is used
as a cosmetic, and made witn sugar into a ratafia.
           Ecu de melisse de Carmes.
  Take of dried  balm leaves, 4 oz. dried lemon-
              Strawberries whole.
  Take an equal weight of fruit and double re.fi"ed
sugar, lay the former in a large dish, and spnmde
half the sugar in tine powder; give a gentle shake
to the.  dish, that the sugar may touch the under
side of the fruit. Next day make a thin syrup with
the remainder of the sugar; and allow one pint of
red currant juice to every three pounds of straw-
berries; in this simmer them until sufficiently jel-
lied.  Choose the largest scarlets, not dead ripe.
                   Apricots.
  Infuse young apricots before their stones become
hard, into a pan of cold spring water, with plenty
of vine leaves, set them over a slow fire until they
are quite yellow, then take them out, and rub their.
with a  flannel and salt to take off the lint: put them
into the pan to  the  same  water and leaves, covet
them close  at a distance from the fire, until they
are a fine light green, then  pick out all  the bad
ones.   Boil the best gently two or three times in
a thin syrun, and let tnem be quite cold each time
before  you  boil them.  When they look plump and
clear, make a  syrup of double refined sugar, but
not too thick; give your apricots a gentle boil in it,
and then put them into the pots  or glasses, dip a
paper in brandy, lay it over them, tie them close,
and keep them in a dry place.
           To make candied angelica.
   The stalks are to be boiled  for a quarter of an
hour in water,  to take away their bitterness, and
some of the strong scent; they are then to be put
into  syrup, boiled  to a full candied height, and
kept on  the fire until they  appear quite dry, and
then taken out and drained.
                Candied eringo
   Is prepared nearly  in the same manner as can-
died angelica, but the roots are only slit, and wash-
ed three or four times in cold  water, before they
are put into the syrup.
              To keep gooseberries.
   Put an ounce of roche alum, beat very fine, into
a large  pan of boiling  hard water; place a few
gooseberries at the bottom of a hair sieve,  and hold
them in the water till they turn white.  Then take
out the sieve, and spread the gooseberries between
two cloths; put more  into the sieve, then repeat it
till they are all done.  Put the water into a glazed
pot until the next day, then put the gooseberries
into wide-mouthed bottles,  pick out all the crack-
ed and  broken ones, pour the water clca.- out of
the pot, and fill the bottles with  it, cork them
loosely, and let them stand a fortnight.   If they
rise to the corks, draw them out and let them stand
two or three days uncorked, then cork them close
again.
AND  COSMETICS.
peel, 2 do.. nutmegs and  coriander seeds, each, 1
oz.  cloves, cinnamon, and  dried  angelica roots,
each, 4 dr.  spirit of wine, 2 lbs. brandy, 2 ditto.
Steep and distil in  balneum  maria, re-distil, and
keep for some time in a cold cellar.
  Original receipt for the sdme.—Take of spirit
of halm, 8 pinls, lemon peel, 4  do., nutmegs and
coriander seeds, each 2 no., rosemary, marjoram,
thyme, hyssop, cinnamon, sage, aniseed, cloves,
angelica roots, each 1 pint.  Mix, distil and keep 
188                           UNIVERSAL RECEIFT BOOR,
 it for a year in an icehouse.—This is the original
 re-ript of the barefooted Carmelites, now in pos-
 session of the company of apothecaries of Paris,
 who sell a vast quantity of this celebrated water.
                Eau de bouquet.
   Take of sweet scented honey watpr, 1 oz. ean
 sans pareillc, 1| do. essence de jasmine, 5 drachms,
 syrup of cloves and spirit of violets, each, 4 dr.
 calamus aromaticus, long rooted cyperus, laveiider,
 each, 2 do. essence  of neroli,  1  scruple.   Mix.
 Some add a few grains of musk  and ambergris: it
 is sweet scented, and also made  into a ratafia with
 sugar.
               Essence de jasmin.
   The flowers are stratified with wool or cotton,
 impregnated  with oil of behn,  or nut oil,  in an
 earthen vessel, ojosely covered, and kept  for some
 time in a Avarm bath; this is repeated wilh fresh
 flowers, until the oil is well scented; the wool, &c.
 is then put into a sufficient quantity of spirit of
 wine, and distilled in balneum maris.
              The best honey water.
   Take of coriander seeds, a  pound, cassia, 4 oz.
 cloves and gum benzoin, each, 2 oz. oil of rhodi-
 um, essence  of lemon, essence  of bergamot, and
 oil of lavender, each, 1 drachm, rectified spirit of
 wine, 20  pints,  rose water, 2 quarts, nutmeg wa-
 ter, 1 quart, musk and ambergris, each, 12 grains.
 Distil in a water bath to dryness.
   Another method.—Put 2 drachms each, of tinct-
 ure of ambergris, and tincture of musk, in a quart
 of rectified spirits of wine, and half a pint of water;
 filter and put it up in small bottles.
                  Ottar of roses.
   The  royal society of Edinburgh received  from
 Dr Monro the following account of the maoner in
 which this costly perfume is prepared in the east.
 Steep a large quantity of the petals of the rose,
 freed from every extraneous matter, in pure water,
 in an earthen or wooden vessel,  which  is exposed
 daily to the sun,  and housed at night,  till a scum
 rises to the  surface. This is the ottar, which, care-
" fully absorb by a very small piece of cotton tied to
 the end of a stick.  The oil collected, squeeze out
 of the cotton into a very diminutive vial, stop it for
 use.   The  collection  of it should be continued
 whilst any scum is produced.
              English milk of roses.
   Take 2 lbs. of Jordan almonds, 5 quarts of rose
 water, i do.  of rectified spirit of wine, ^ an oz. of
 oil of lavender, 2oz. of Spanish  oil soap,  and4oz.
 of cream  of roses.—Blanch the aimonds in boiling
 water, dry them well in a cloth,  then pound them
 in a mortar  until  they become a  paste.   Pound  in
 the  soap  and mix it well with the almond paste,
 Then add the cream  of roses.   When these are
 mixed, add the rose-water and spirits, Avhich stir in
 Avith a spatula or knife.  Strain ihe whole through
 a clean white cloth, then add the oil of lavender tr
 the expressed liquid, drop by drop, and stir the
 whole Avell.   When the mixture has  stood  for a
 day,  "over it over with a cloth from the dust, then
 bottle it for use.
              French milk of  roses.
   Mix together 4 oz.  of oil of almonds, £ an oz.
 of English  oil of lavender, 2 quarts ot  spirit of
 wine, and  10 do- of rose-water.   Next  blanch 3
 lbs. of Jordan almonds, and pound them in a mor-
 tar, with  a quarter of a pound of Spanish oil-soap,
 half  an oz.  of spermaceti, and half an oz. of white
 wax.  Put these ingredients into a large jar, with
 two ounces  of pearl-ash, dissolved in an ounce of
 warm water.  Shake the whole well, and then pour
 it into small bottles for sale.
                 Cream of roses-
   Tike 1 lb. of oil of sweet almonds,—1  oz. of
 spermaceti,—1 oz. of white  Avax,—1 pint of rose
I water,—and 2 drachms of Malta  rose, or neroiet
i essence.   Put the oil, spermaceti, and wax, into a
 well-glazed pipkin,  over a clear  fire, and, when
 melted, pour in the rose-wafr by degrees,  and
 keep heating, till the compound becomes like po-
 matum.  Now add the essence, and  then  put the
; cream into small pots or jars, which must  be well
 covered up with pieces of bladder,  and Joft skip
j leathc.
j     .Cold cream pomatum for the complexion.
i   Take an ounce of oil of sweet almonds, and half
! a drachm each, of white wax and spermaceti, with
[ a little balm.   Melt these ingredients in a glazed
! pipkin, over  hot ashes, and  pour the solution into
I a marble mortar; stir it with the peslje until it be-
| comes  smooth and  cold,  then add gradually  an
j ounce of rose or orange-flower Avater; stir all the
| mixture till incorporated  to resemble cream. This
I pomatum  renders the skin at once supple and
! smooth.  To prevent marks from the small pox,
 add a little powder of saffron.  The gallipot in
 which  it is kept, should have a piece of  bladder
 tied over it.
   Another.—Take 4  ounces of clear trotter  oil,
 one ounce of oil of jessamine, 2  ounces of sper-
 maceti, and one ounce of white wax, scraped fine.
 Melt them toge<her very  gently, then pour it foto
 a pan, which must be kept by the fire.   Now beat
 it with nit  intermission,  till it becomes one conr
 si stent veiy white body: then put to it 3 ounces ol
 I'ose or  orange-flower water, with about  a  drachm
 of spirit of  ambergris, or  other  sweet "essence.
 Beat the mixture well  again, until the Avater  and
 spirit be properly absorbed.  This  beating will
 add greatly to the whiteness as well as the flavour
 of the cream, which will  now be as white as snow;
 particularly if care is taken  that the  utensils  and
\ ingredients tie quite clean.
   In winter,  all the utensils,  he. must be kept
 warm, and the process performed in a Avarm room.
 Even the rose-water must be warmed, previous iq
 mixture, otherwise  the cream will  coi^eal into
 knobs, so as to cause the whole to be melted again.
   In summer even- thing must be  kept cool after
 the melting and mixing.  More wax must likewise
 be used invSiunmer than in winter.
   When putinto p Jts, the cold cream is to be kept
I very cool; each having honey-water poured on the
I top, iu order  to improve the flavour.
                 Pomade divine.
   Put a pound and a half of clear beef marrow into
] an earthen pan of fresh water, and change the sirae
I for ten days, then steep it in rose water for 24 hours,
I and drain it in a cloth.till dry.   Take an ounce of
'■ storax, gum  benjamin, odoriferous Cypress pow-
i der, or of Florence,  half an ounce ot cinnamon,
 two drachms  of cloves, and two  drachms of nuu
 meg, all finely powdered: mix them with the mar-
 row, then  put the  ingredients into  a three-pinl
 pewter pot, make a paste of the white of an egg and
! flour, and lay it upon a piece of rag,  over that put
 another piece of linen to cover the top close.  Put
 the pot into a large copper pot with Avater, and keen
 it steady that it  may not  reach to the covering of
 the pot that holds  the  marrow.  As the water
 shrinks,  add  more,  for  il  must  boil four hours
 Avithout ceasing; strain  the ointment  through a
 linen cloth into small pots,  and when cold covci
 them  up close with bladder and  paper.   Don't
 touch it with any thing but silver.
            Pearl water for the face.
   Put ha}f a pound of best Spanish  oil soap, scran
 ed very fine,  into a gallon of boiling water.   Stir
 it well for some tinw, and let it stand till cold.
' Add a quart of rectified spirit of wine, and half an
| ounce of oil  of rosemary; stir them again.  This
! compound liquid, when put  up in proper phials iu 
PERFUMERY, he.                                 t89
Italy, is called tincture of pearls.   It is an excel-
lent cosmetic for removing frecklej} from the face,
and for im[ roving the complexion.
           To prepare almond bloom.
  Take of Brazil Oust, 1 oz. water, 3 pints, isin-
glass, 6 drachms, cochineal, 2 do.  alum, 1 oz.  bo-
rax! S drachms.
          To make almond paste.
  Take of blanched sweet almonds, 1 lb. blanched
bitter do. ^ lb. sugar, I lb.  Beat  up with  orange
flower water.
             Common almond paste.
  To make this paste, take six  pounds of fresh
almonds, which blanch and beat in a stone mortar,
with a sufficient quantity of rose water.   Now  add
a pound of finely dramed honey, and mix the whole
well together.  This pasto, which is exceedingly
good  for the hands, is to be put into small pots for
sale.   If this paste gets dry, rub it up on a  marble
slab,  with  rose water.  To prevent this diyness,
put about half a teaspoonful of this water  on the
top of each pot, before tying up.
               Orange "pomatum.
  Take 5 pounds of hog's lard, I pound of  multcn
suet,  3 ounces of Portugal water, half an ounce of
essence of Bergamot, 4 ounces of yellow wax,  and
half a pound of palm oil.   Mix.
                 Soft, pomatum.
  Take 25  pounds of hog's lard, 8 pounds of mut-
ton suet, 6 ounces  of oil of Bergamot, 4 ounces of
essence of  lemons, half an ounce of oil of laven-
der, and a quarter  of an ounce of oil of rosemary.
These ingredients  are to be combined in the same
manner as those for the hard pomatum.  This po-
matum is to be put up in pots, in the usual way.
               Common pomatum.
  Take 4 pounds of  fresh and white mutton suet,
skinned and shredded  very  fine; which melt in
about two quarts of spring water; and,  whilst hot,
put the whole into a  well glazed earthen pan, small
at bottom,  and wide  at the top.   Let it  stand until
the fat  is quite cold, and all the impurities fall to
the bottom, which carefully scrape off.  Noav break
the fat into small pieces, which put into a pan,  with
2 gallons of spring water, for a whole day;  stir and
wash often.  Next day change the water, and when
poured off a second  time,  at the end  of  twenty-
four hours, dry the fat by rubbing in a  clean linen
cloth   Now put the suet, with 1 pound and a "ialf
of fresh hog's lard, into a large pan, and melt the
whole over a gentle -fire.  When properly  com-
bined, put the whole into an earthen pan, and beat
 it with a wooden spatula, until cold. Whilst beat-
 ing,  add  6 drachms of essence of  lemon, and 39
 dr jps of oil of cloves previously mixed together. |
 Now continue beating,  until the mixture  be  per- I
 fectly white, and afterwards put it up im.J small  pots.
 Leave the  pots open until the pomatum  is quite
 cold; when cover them by pieces of bladder, &c.
 In summer use more suet, and mix in a cool place:
 in winter use more hog's lard, and make the poma-
 tum  in a warm room.
                 Hard pomatum.
   Take 30 lbs of  suet, 1$ lbs. of white Avax, 6 oz.
 of essence of Bergamot, 4 ounces of lemon,  1 oz.
 of lavender, 4 drachms of oil of rosemary, and 2
 drachms of essence  of ambergris. Shred and pick
 ihe suet clean, and  melt it in an earthen pan or
 pipkin. Then stir  it well and strain; and when
 nearly cold, add the perfumes,  stirring well as be-
 fore.   When properly mixed,  pour  it  into tin
 moulds.
   Another.—T*e 6 oz. of common pomatum, and
 add to it 3 oz. of  white virgin wax, scraped  fine.
 Melt them in an earthen pan, immersed in a larger
 one  containing boiling water;  both being placed
 over a clear and steady fire.   When properly in- |
I corporated,  keep stirring, until it is nearly cold;
 then put it  into  small  pots, or make it up into
 small rolls.  Perfume it according to taste.
               Rosemary pomatum.
   Strip a large double handful of rosemary; boil it
 in a tin or copper vessel, with i.alf a pound of com-
 mon soft pomrtum, till it comes to about 3 or 4 oz.
 strain it off,  and keep it in the usual way.
            Pearl powder for the face.
   There are several sons: the finest  is made from
 real pearls, and is the least hurtful to the skin.  It
 gives the most beautiful appearance, but is too dear
 for common use; still the perfumer ought never to
 De wit hout it, for the use ot the curious and the rich.
              Bismuth pearl powder.
I   The next  best pearl powder is made as follows:
| Take 4 ounces of the best magistery of bismuth, 2
 ounces of fine starch powder.  Mix  them well to-
 gether, and  putting them into  a subsiding  glass,
 wide at top  and narrow at oottom, pour over them
 a pinf  and'a half  of proof spirit, and  shake them
 well; let them remain a day or two.  When the
 powder falls to the bottom, pour off the spirit, leav-
 ing it dry; then place the glass in the sun, to eva-
 porate the moisture.  Next turn out the white mass,
 the dirty parts of which form the top, whilst the
 pure ingredients remain at the bottom.  If there
 be any dirty particles, scrape them  off, and again
 pulverize the  remaining part of the cake, and pour
 more proof spirit over it.  Proceed  as before; and,
 If there be any moisture remaining, place the cone
  on a large  piece of smooth chalk, to absorb its
  moisture.   Cover the whole with a bell-glass to
 preserve it from dust, and set it in the sun  to dry
  and whiten  it. Next grind the mass with a muller
  on a marble stone; and keep '»he powder in a glass
  bottle, secured by a  ground  stopper, from air.
  To blacken white oxide of bismuth by Hanowgate
                      water.
    Place a little oxide of bismuth on a white dish,
  and pour  over it some Harrowgate water.  Its
  beautiful  white colour will instantly be changed to
  black.
     It is well known that this oxide, under the name
  of pearl white, is used as a cosmetic by those of the
  fair sex who  wish to become fairer.  A lady thus
  painted was silting in a  lerture room, Avhere chem-
  istry being  the subject, water being impregnated
  with sulphuretted hydrogen gas (IlarroAvgate wa-
  ter) Avas handed  round for inspection.   On smell-
  ing this liquid, the  lady in  question became sud-
  denly black  in the j'ace.   Every person was of
  course alarmed  by  this sudden chemical  change;
  but the lecturer  explaining the cause of the phe-
  nomenon, the lady received no farther injury, than
  a salutary practical lesson to rely more upon na-
  tural than artificial beauty in future.
         Orange flower paste for the hands.
     Blanch 5 or 6 lbs. of bitter  almonds,  by  boiling
   in water, and then beat them very fine in a  marble
   mortar, with 2 lbs. of orange fioAvers.  If tne paste
   be too oily, add to it some bean flour, fineh/ sifted,
   but let no water enter the composition.  This paste
   is made abroad, but comes here very damaged, the
   sea-air destroying its properties.
             To make coral tooth powder.
     Take 4 oz. of  coral, reduced to an impalpable
   powder,  8  oz. of very light Armenian bole, I oz.
   of Portugal snuff, 1 oz. of Havanah snuff, 1 ov. ot
   good burnt tobacco ashes, and 1 oz. of gum myrrh,
   well pulveritcd.  Mix them together, and sift them
   twice.
               A good tooth powder.
     To make a good tooth powder leave out the coral,
   and, in its piace, put in  pieces of brown stone-ware,
   reduced to a very fine  powder.  This is the com-
   mon way of making it. 
J 90                            UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK                        •
           An astringent for the teeth.
   Take of fresh conserve of roses, 2 oz. the juice
 pf half a sour lemon, a little very rough claret, and
 6 ounces of coral tooth-powder.  Make them into
 a paste, which put  up in small pots; and if it dry
 by standing, moisten with lemon juiee and wine,
 as before.
            To prevent the troth-ache.
   Rub Avell the teeth and ^ums with a hard tooth-
 brush, using the flowers of sulphur as a tooth pow-
 der, every night on going to bed; and if it  is done
 after dinner it will be best: this  is an excellent pre-
 servative to the teeth, and void of any unpleasant
 smell.
         A radical cure for the tooth-ache.
   Use as a tooth powder the Spanish snuff called
 Sibella, and it  will  clean the teeth  as well as any
 other  powder,  and totally prevent the tooth-ache;
 and make a regular'practice of washing behind the
 ears with cold  water every morning.  The reme-
 dy is infallible.
               To clean the teeth.
   Take of good soft water, 1 quart, juice of lemon,
 2 oz. burnt alum, 6 grains, common salt, fi grains.
 Mix.   Boil them a  minute in  a cup, then strain
 and bottle for use: rub the teeth  with a small bit of
 sponge tied to a stick, once a week.
            To make the teeth white.
   A mixture of honey with the purest charcoal will
 prove an admirable cleanser.
         An excellent opiate for the teeth.
   Well boil and skim  I lb.  of  honey; add to it a
 quarter ofa pound of bol^: ammoniac, 1 oz.  of dra-
 gon's blood, 1 of oil  of  sweet almonds, half an oz.
 of oil of cloves, 8 drops  of essence of bergamot, a
 gill of  honey  water, all  mixed  well together, aiid
 put into pots for use.
            Vegetable tooth brushes.
  Take marine marsh-mallow roots, cut them into
 lengths of 5 or  6 inches, and of the thickness of a
 middling rattan cane.   Dry them  in the shade, but
 not so as to make them shrivel.
  Next finely  pulverize two ounces  of good dra-
gon's blood, put it into a flat bottomed glazed pan,
with four ounces of highly rectified spirit, and half
an Oz.  of fresh conserve of roses.  Set it  over a
gentle charcoal  fire, and stir it until the dragon's
blood is dissolved; then put in about  thirty of the
marsh-mallow  sticks; rtir them about, and care-
fully turn them, that all parts may absorb the dye
alike.  Continue this until the bottom of the pan
be quite dry, and shake  and  stir it over the fire,
until the  sticks are perfectly dry and hard.
  Both ends of each root or stick should, previous
to  immersion  in the  pan, be bruised gerttly by a
hammer, for half an inch downwards, so as to open
 its fibres,  and thereby form a brush.
  They are generally used by dipping one  of the
ends in the powder or opiate, and then, by rubbing
 them against  the teeth, which  they  cleanse  and
 wh'.ten admirably.
   Otherveg:table toothbrushes.—-There are sev-
 eral cheap sorts of these tooth-brushes, which are
 made in the same manner as the genuine ones, ex-
 cept that, «s a basis, rattan cane, or even common
 deal, cut round,  is used  instead  of the marsh-mal-
 low roots.
                Rose l!p salve.
  Put eight ounces of the best olive oil into a wide-
 mouthed bottle, add two ounces  of the small-parts
 of alkanet-root.   Stop up the bottle,  and set it in
the sun; shake  it ofte;i, until it be of a beautiful
 crimson.   Now strain the oil off very clear from
 the roots, and add to it,  in a glazed  pipkin, three
 ounces of very fine white wax, and the same quan-
 tity of fresh clean mutton suet.  Deer suet  is too
  brittle; and alsr  apt to turn yellow.  Melt this dj
  a slow fire, anr'nerfume it when taken off, with fori
  ty drops of oil Vrhodium, or of laven.ier.   When
  cold, put it into small gallipots, or rather whilst iq
  a liouid state.
    The common  way is to make this  salve up intq
  small cakes; but in that form the colour is  very apt
  to be impaired.
    This salve never fails  to cure chopped or sore
  lips, if applied pretty  freely at  bed-time, in the
  course of a day or two  at farthest.
    Another  method.—Beat the alkanet root  in a
  mortar, until its fibres  are properly bruised,  then
  tie it up in a piece of clean linen rag, and  put this
  in a clean pipkin with the oil.  When the oil has
  begun to boil, it will be foun ) of a deep red   The
  bag is now  to be taken out, pressed, and  throwi;
  away, and then the other ingredients are to be add-
  ed, as above.
                  Wldte lip salve.
    This may be made as  above, except in  the use
  of alkanet-root,  which is to be left out.  Though
  called lip-salve, this composition is seldom ap  died
  to the lips;  its principal use consisting in curing
  sore  nipples, for which it is an excellent remedy.
               To sweeten the breath.
    Take tAvo ounces of terra japonica; half an ounce
  of sugar-candy, both in powder. Grind one  drachm
  of the best ambergris with ted grains of pure musk,
  and dissolve a quarter  of an ounce of clean gum
  tragacanth in two ounces of orange-flower water.
  Mix  all together, so as to form a paste, which roll
  into pieces  of the thickness ofa straw.  Cut these
  into pieces, and lay them in clean paper.   1'hisis
  an excellent  perfume  for those whose breath  is.
  disagreeable.
                To perfume clothes.
    Take of oven-dried best cloves, cedar and rhu-
  barb  wood,  each  one ounce, beat them to a  powder
  and sprinkle them in a box  or chest, where they
  will create a most beautiful scent, and preserve the
  apparel against moths.
           Perfumed bags for drawers.
    Cut, slice and mi', well together, in the state of
  very gross powder, the following ingredients: 2 oz.
  of yellow saunders, 2 oz.  of coriander seeds, 2 oz.
  of orris root, 2 oz. of calamus aromaticus, 2 oz. of
  cloves, 2 oz. of cinnamon bark, 2 oz. of dried rose.
  leaves, 2 oz. of lavender  flowers, and 1 lb. of  oak
  shavings. When properly mixed, stuff the above
  into small linen bags, which place in drawers, ward-
  robes, he., which are musty or liable to become so.
          Excellent perfume for gloves.
 Take of ambergris one  drachm,  civet the like
 quantity; add  fl mr-butter a quarter of an  ounce;
 and with  these well mixed, rub  the  gloves over
 gently with  .iue cotton  avooI and press the per-
 tume  into them.
   .fyiother.— fake of damask or rose scent, half
 an ounce, the spirit of cloves and mace,  each a
 drachm; frankincense, a^ of an ounce.  Mix them
 together, and  lay them in papers, and when hard,
i press  the gloves; they  will take the scent in 24
 hours, and hardly ever lose it.
                Tincture of musk.
   This excellent spirit requires 6 drachms of Chi-
 na musk, 20 grains of civet,  and 2 drachms of  red
 rose buds.  Reduce these ingredients to  powder
  with loaf sugar, and pour over them 3 pints of spi-
 rit of wine.
     A perfume to prevent pestilential airs, &c.
   Take of benjamin, storax, and galbanum, each
 half an oz. temper them, being bruised into pow-
 der, with the  oil  of myrrh, and  bft'rn them in a
 chafing-dish, or else take rosemary, balm, and  bay
 leaves; heat  them in wine and sugar, and  let the 
PERFUMERY, &c.
191
anojsnjre be cqnsumcd; likewise hum them by the
h«*at of the pan, and they will produce a very fine
.xent.
       Pastils for perfuming sick rooms,.
  Powder separately the following ingredients, and |
then mix, on a marble slab, 1 lb.  of gum benzoin,
8 oz. of gum storax, 1 lb. of frankincense, and 2
lbs. of fine charcoal.   Add to this composition the
following liquids: 6 oz. of tincture of benzoin, 9.
oz.  of essence of ambergris, 1 oz. of essence  ot
musk, 2 oz. of almond oil, and 4 oz. of clear syrup, j
Mix the whole  into  a  stiff paste, and form into !
pastils, of a conical shape, which dry in the heat
of the sun.   If more liquid should be required for
the paste, add warm water.
               Aromatic pastils.
  Beat and sift fine a pound of the four gums left
after the  making of honey-water, one pound also
of the ingredients left from the cpirit of benjamin, I
pne pound  of the best sealing-wax, and one pound
of genuine gum benzoin.
  Dissolve some clea, common  gum arabic in a
quantity of rose-water, of a pretty thick consisten-
cy, and add to it sixty drops  of spirit of musk.
  Mix the whole together, so as  to make a pretty '
stiff paste, which make up into small cones or balls.
Dry  them thoroughly before they are put away,
otherwise they will  uecorae mouldy.
  These  pastils are particularly useful for burning
in rooms, where the sick or the dead have lain. They
are used in very considerable quantities in  the two
Houses of Lords and Commons; also  in  various
halls, assembly rooms, he.
               Explosive pastils.
  There  is another sort  of these pastils, called
sweets and sours, which are made thus: Take some
of the above aromatic  paste, and  make into cones
of 2 inches in length, and of the thickness, at their |
bases, of an inch.  Whilst moist, scoop out a cavity j
in the bottom of each,  papable of containing a large
pea,  fill it up  with gunpowder, covering this over \
with the  paste which has been scooped out.
  When  Ij be dried, lay the bottoms  of these pas-
tils uppermost; for if any moisture attacks the gun-
powder, its effects will be  destroyed.             }
  The design  (it can hardly be called a useful pur-
pose,) for which these pastils are made, is  to pro-
duce diversion.  During Christmas, or other holi-
day gambols, it is customary with many to light
one of these with the avowed intention of perfum-
ing  the apartments, and whilst the company are
please'1 with the odour, an unexpected report ter-
rifies some, whilst it amuses  others.
             Hair powder perfume.
  Take half a pound of pulvil noivder, made from
apple-tree moss, half an ounce of grey ambergris,
thirty grains of musk, and twenty grains of civet.
Grind the musk and civet with loaf sugar to a very
fine powder; melf. the ambergris, with 0 drops of
the oil of behn nuts,  over a  gentle fire, in  a clean
vessel, not brass or copper, add,  as it melts, a few-
drops of the  juice of green lemon,  and about 4
drops each of oil of rhodium and lavender.  When
the ambergris is melted, put the above powder in-
to it, stir and  mix it well.  Add, by  degrees, the
powder of appje-moss; and Avhen the whole  is com-
bined, pulverize and sift it through a very fine hair
sieve; what will  not pass through, return into the
mortar, again  pound it  with loaf sugar, until the
whole is  reduced to fine powder.
              Jfmbergris perfume.
  Melt 2 penny-Aveights  of fine ambergris, in a
brass mortar,  very gently, stir in quickly 8 drops
of green lemon  juice, and the same of behn-nut
oil.   Add, re^dy powdered with fine loaf sugar, 12
grains of musk,  12 grains  ot civet, and 24 grains
of the residuum from the making of spirit of am-
bergris. Add one ounce of spirit of ambergris. Mix
and incorporate thein well, and  add 16 pounds of
fine dry hair  powder.   Pass the  whole, twice
through a fine hair sieve; then lay it open for three
days, in a dry room, stir it often, that the spirit
may entirely evaporate; otherwise it may turn sour,
which hoAi'ever will go off by keeping. Bottle  and,
stop it close.
           Musk and civet perfumes.
  Take 2 penny-weights of pure musk, 12 grains
of civet, and 1 penny-weight of the residuum of
spirit of ambergris.  Make this into a paste, with 2
ounces of spirit of musk, made by infusion. Pow-
der it with loaf sugar, and mix in," 16 pounds of fine
hair powder.
                Orris perfume.
  Take best dried  and  scraped orrjs rqots,  free
from mould.   Bruise or grind them: the  latter is
best, as, being very tough, they require great la-
bour to pound. Sift  the powder through a fine hair
sieve, and piit the remainder in a baker's oven, tq
dry the moisture.   A violent heat will  turn  the
roots yellow.  When  dry, grind again,  and  sift:
and repeat  the same until the whole has  passed
through the sieve; mix nothing with it, as it would
mould and spoil it.
                Violet perfume.
  Drop twelve drops of genuine oil of rhodium on,
a lump of loaf-sugar; grind this well in a glass mor-
tar, and mix it thoroughly with three pounds of
orris powder.  This Will, in  its perfume, have a
resemblance to a well-flavoured violet. If you  add
more  rhodium oil,  a rose  perfutne? instead  of a
violet one, wijl bp produced; the orris powder is a
most agreeable perfume, and  only requiring to be
raised by the addition of the above quantity of the
oil.  Keep  this perfume in the same manner as the
others.  What js  at the druggists' shops is gene-;
rally adulterated.       *           *
                Rose perfume.
  Take two pecks of fresh diy damask rose leaves;
strip them from their leaves and  stalks; have ready
sixteen pounds of fine hair powder.  Strew a layer
of rose leaves,  on sheets of paper, at the bottom of
a box, cover them over with a layer of hair pow-
der; then strew alternately a layer of roses  and
powder, until  the whole of each has been used.
When they  have lain 24 hours, sift the pjrder out,
and expose it to the air 24 hours more. Tstir it of-
ten.  Add fresh rose leaves, twice, as before,  and
proceed in the same way; after  this dry the pow-
der well by a  gentle ti2at, and  pass  it through a
fine sieve.  Lastly,  pour ten drops of oil of rho-
dium, or three drops of  ott^ of roses, on  loaf su-i
gar, which triturate  in a glass mortar, and stir well
into the powder, which put into a box, or glass for
use.  This halir powder perfume will be excellent,
and will keop.\\»ell.
              Bergamot perfume.
  Take sixteen pounds of hair powder, and forty
drops of Roman oil of bergamot, and proceed iu
all  respects as before, but do not leave the coiar'
pound exposed to  the air; for in  this case the  ber-
gamot is so volatile, that it will quickly fly off.
           Ambergris hair powder.
  Take twelve pounds of fine starch  powder,  add
three pounds of the  ambergris perfume: mix them
well together, and run it twice through a fine hair
sieve.   Put it into a well closed box, or glass, for
use  This  is the  first and best  sort of ambergris
powder: but for a second, or inferior sort, put only
a pound and a  half  of the perfume, to the above.
quantity of starch  powder.
         Musk and civet hair powder.
  Mix twelve pounds of starch powder, and three. 
192                          UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
pounds of musk perfume, as before.  A second
sort of this hair powder may be made by using
half the quantity of the perfume.
               Violet hair powder.
  Mix twelve pounds of hair  powder with three
pounds of the violet perfume, and lay it by for use.
               Rose hair powder.
  Mix well twelve pounds of starch powder, with
three pounds of the rose perfume.  Sift; put it up
iu a cedar box, or glass bottle.
  Another.—A second sort cf this powder may be
made by using half the quantity of the perfume to
twelve pounds of powder, and adding two  drops
of otto of roses, previously dropped on sugar, and
well triturated in a glass mortar.
          To destroy superfluous hair.
  Take of fresh lime-stone, 1 oz.  pure potass, 1
drachm, sulphuret of potass, 1 drachm.  Reduce
them to a fine powder in a wedge wood mortar. If
the hair be first washed, or soaked in warm water,
£130° Fahr.) for ten'.ninutes, this article formed
into a thin  paste,  with  warm  water, and applied
whilst warm, will so effectually destroy the hair in
five  or  six minutes,  that it  may be removed by
washing the skin with flannel. It  is a powerful
caustic, and should therefore be removed as soon
as it begins to inflame the skin, by washing it off
with vinegar.  It softens the skin, and greatly im-
proves its appearance.
        To make Spanish ladies' rouge.
  Take good new scarlet wool cuttings and spirit
of wine, or lemon-juice, boil them  in a well glaz-
ed  earthen  pot well stopped, till the liquid has
charged itself with all the colour of the scarlet, strain
the dye through a  cloth, and all the colour there-
from; boil it afterwards  in a litlle arabic water, till
the colour becomes very deep.  The proportion of
miUvrials is, to half a poun.-I  of scarlet cuUings, a
quartet.of a pint^f spiritjif Avine, and a sufficient
quantity 6f wsfcer to assist the soaking. Then, in the
colour extr;icted, put a piece of gum arabic, of the
size ofa filbert: next steep some cotton in the co-
four, and wet some sheets of paper with  the dye,
which  repeat seA-eral  times, as often  as  they are
dry, and you will  find them sufficiently charged
with rousjgrfor use.
        Spanish vermilion for the toilette.
  Pour into the alkaline liquor -which holds in so-
lution the^louring part of bastard saffron, such a
quantity of fomon juice as may be necessary to sa-
turate the whole alkaline salts.  At the time of the
precipitation, the latter appears under the form of
a fecula'full of threads, which soon falls to the
bottom  of flie vessel.  Mix  this part with white
talc, reduced to fine  p&vder, and moistened with
a little  lemon-juice and water. Then  form the
whole into a paste; and having put it io squall pots,
expose it to dry.   This colour is resevve\l for the
use of the toilette; but it has* not tBfc|iarability of
that prepared from cochineal.
               Economical rouge.
  Fine carmine, properly pulverized and prepared
for the purpose, is the best that can  be employed
with safety and effect; it gives the most natural tone
to the coiuphxion, and imparts a brilliancy to the
eyes, without  detracting from the softness of the
skin.  To use it economically, take some of the
finest pomatum, withi ut scent, in which there is a
proportion of white >vax, about tire size ofa pea,
just flatten  it  upon a piece  of white paper, then
lake on a pointed penknife, carmine equal to a
pin's head, mix it gently with  the pomatum, with
your finger, and when you have produced the de-
sired tint, rub it in a little compressed cotton, pass
it over the cheeks till colour is clearly diffused, I
void of grease.   Ladies will find, upon trial, that |
tliis economical rouge will neither injure the health i
 nor the skin; and it imitates perfectly the natural
 colour of the complexion.
   Another.—Take of French  chalk,  (powdered)
 4 ounces; oil of almond?, 2 drachms; carmine, 1 do.
                 Turkish bloom.
   Infuse 1$  ounces of gum benzoin,  2 ounces ot
 red saunders in powder, and 2 drachms of dragon's
 blood, in 12 ounces of rectified spirit of wine, and;
 4 ounces of  river or rain water.  When the ingre-
 dients have been mixed, stop the bottle close, and-
 shake frequently during  seven days; then  filter
 through blotting paper.
      A wash for sun-burnt faces and han^s.
   To each pound of ox-gall,  add roche alum, 1
 drachm, rock salt, £ ounce, sugar candy,  1 ounce,
 borax, 2 drachms, camphor, 1  drachm.  Mix and
 shake well for fifteen minutes,  then often daily, for
 fifteen days, or  till the gall is transparent; filter
 through cap  paper; used when  exposed to the sun;
 always washing off before  sleep.
                 Macouba  snuff.
   The varied flavour  of snuffs of different kinds
 arises less from the state of the original leaf, than
 the factitious  additions of manufacturers.   The
 snuff of Martinico,. celebrated  under the  term
 " Macouba," is made from the best leaves, which
 being moistened with juice from their excellent su-.
 gar-canes,  undergoes  fermentation, and having
 throAvn off the offensive fetor in  scum and residuum^
 is evaporated and ground in the usual manner.
                 Cephalic  snuff.
   Its basis is powdered asarum, (vulgo Asarabac-
 ca),  reduced by admixture with a small portion of
 powdered  dock-leaf,  or any other innoxious vege-
 table.  The finely  levigated  snuff,  known  as
 " Scotch," may be added, agreeable to the taste of
 the consumer; and finally a solution, of spiric of
 Avine and camphor, in the proportion of one drachm
 of  the latter in fifteen of spirit,  is to  be  dropped
 upon  the camphor,  from  hve  to  ten  drops to an
 ounce.  Bottle your snuff  immediately.
  Another may be made of a very pleasant flavour,
 with the powder produced from sage, rosemary,
 lilies of the valley, and tops of sweet marjoram, of
 each 1 ounce, with a draciim of Asarabacca  root,
 lavender-tioAvers, and nutmeg; it should be very
 fine, and it will relieve the head vastly.
             To imitate Spanish snuff.
   Take good unsifted  Havanah snuff, and grind it
 down to a  fine powder.   If  the tobacco be too
 strong, mix  it with the fine powder of Spanish nut-
 shells, which is by far the  best mixture wh:ch can
 be used.   Over this sprinkle  some weak treacle
 water, and when, after mixing with the  hands, it
 has lain in a heap for some days, to sweat and in
 corporate, pack it up; but lake care that it be not
 too moist.
   This snuff, in the course of twelve months, will
 be of one uniform and agreeable  flavour;  and will
 keep good and mending, for many years.   When
 old, this sort will hardly be inferior to any of the
 plain snuffs made in Spain.
 London  imitation- of Spaiush  and other foreign
                     snuffs.
   The fine powder, which is the best part  of the
 snuff, as it comes from abroad, is sifted  from the
 bale-snuff'; and the coarse and stalky part left, is
 ground down, previously mixed av'uIi strong cheap
 tobacco powder, or dust, along with savine, brick-
 dust,  yellow sand, the sweepings of tobacco, old
 rotten wood, and with many other filthy vegetable
 substances, both dry and green, to pass as the real
 flavour of tobacco.  All or most of these ingredi-
 ents being mixed into one  body.   This is nothing
 more than colouring the filthy  compound  with red
 ochre, or umber, or other noxious red or  bro#n
i colour, mixed with water and molasses. 
INKS, &c.                                     ]93
  The whole, when properly incorporated, is now
passed through a hair sieve,  to mix it more inti-
mately; and is then left for some time to sweat, or
become equally moist.  This moistness is intended
to imitate the oiliness which is peculiar to the real
genuine rancia from Havannah.
  This snuff is packed  in barrels, tin canisters,
and stone jars, so that it may come out in lumps,
like the Spanish snuffs.   This is done to deceivs
the purchaser, on whom this bad compound is im-
posed for real Spanish snuff.  Such is the compo-
sition of a very great part of what is made and
sold for common Spanish snuff.
           To make transparent soap.
  Suet is the basis of all the soaps ot the toilette,
known  by the name of Windsor  soap, because
olive-oil forms a paste too difficult to melt  again,
and contains an odour too strong to be mixed with
essences.   The suet soap dissolved hot in alcohol
retakes its solid state by cooling.  To this fact is
due the discovery  of transparent  soap, which, if
well prepared, has the  appearance of fine white
candied sugar; it may also be coloured, and the
vegetable  hues, for this purpose, are preferable to
mineral; any person may make this soap, by put-
ting in a thin glass phial the halt'  of a cake  of
Windsor soap-shavings; fill  it with one half of al-
cohol, and put it near the fire till the soap is dis-
solved; this mixture  placed in  a mould to cool,
produces the transparent soap.
                 Windsor soap.
  Melt hard curd soap, and scent it with oil of karni,
and essence of bergamot, bought at the druggists';
or the essence of bergamot may be omitted.
                 Almond soup.
  Upon 1 lb. of quicklime pour 3 quarts of boiling
distilled water; add 1 lb. ot salt of tartar dissolved
in 1.quart  of water; cover the vessel, and when
cold, filter through a cotton cloth: a pint  should
weigh exactly 16 oz. troy; if more, add distilled
water, and if less, evaporate.  Then add one-third
of  oil of almonds, simmer them together for some
hours,or until the oil formsa jelly; when cool, which
may be tried on a small quantity, add common salt,
and then continue boiling till the soap is solid; when
cold skim off the water, and then pour into moulds,
^-Another method.—Take 2 lbs. of soap ley, made
of  barilla or kelp,  so strong that a bottle holding
half a pint of water will hold 11 ounces of the ley,
and 4 lbs. of nil of almonds; rub them together in
a mortar, and put the  mixture into  tin moulds,
where let it be tor some weeks,  till the combina-
tion is perfect.
               Marbled soap balls.
   Take 10 lbs. of white oil-soap and 10 lbs. of Jop-
Afiine black ink, for common purpose* and for the
                 copying press.
  Put Aleppo galls, well bruised, 4$ oz. and  log-
wood chipped, 1 -or. with S pints soft water, into
a stoneware mug: slowly boil, until one quart re-
mains: add, well powdered, the pure green  crys-
tals ol sulphate of iron, 2£ oz. blue vitriol or ver-
digris, (I think the latter better,,)$ oz. gum arabic,
2 oz.  and brown sugar, 2 oz.  Shake it occasion-
ally a  week after making:  then after  standing a
day, decant and cork. To prevent moulding add a
little brandy or alcohol.
       Z
pa soap. Cut them into small square pieces, which
set to dry for three days: the oil-soap, particularly,
must be thus dried.
  Scrape,  very finely, five pounds of oil soap,
which dry, for one  day, in the open air; mix it
well in the shaving-box, with  five pounds of pow-
der, add an ounce and a half of the best vermilion.
  In mixing,  place pieces of soap and coloured
powder, in layers in the box.  making, in all, four
alternate layers of  each.  When a layer of each
has been placed in the box, sprinkle a pint of rose
water over the cut soap; for if it be much combin-
ed  with the poAvder, it will  become lumpy  and
hard, and  consequently spoil the wash-\alls.  The
same quantity  of water is to be used for moistening
each of the  other soap layers.   Next mix a pint
of thin starch, Avhich has been well boiled in halt
a pint of rain water, with half a pint of rose water,
and distribute it, equally Avell mixed, among the
mass, by turning it over repeatedly, and theh press
it down close with the hands.  If a piece be now
cut out  from the  mass, the operator will perceive
 whether the marbling is sufficiently good; and if so,
he  may proceed  immediately to form his wash-
balls.
            To imitate Naples soap.
  Take of fresh ley, strong enough to bear an egg,
eight pounds; and  put to it of deer's,  goat's, or
lamb's suet,  (which has previously been well cleans-
ed from all  skins, &c. by rose water) two pounds,
and one pound of olive oil, or rather behn-nut oil.
Let all these simmer over the fire in a well glazed
pot, until it be pretty nearly of the consistence of
^rown or  Naples soap; then turn it nut into a large
flat pan, which set on the leads or roof of the house,
exposed to the heat of the sun for fifty days.   The
pan must be covered over with a bell glass, such
as the gardeners use, and the  mixture must be stir-
red well once a day, during the whole of this time.
   In about six weeks or two months, the operator
will have a  most excellent ground work for Naples
 soap, which only requires perfuming in the fol-
lowing  manner, to render it even preferable to the
 foreign sorts.
   Take of oil of  rhodium, one  ounce, of spirit of
 ambergris,  two ounces and a half,  spirit  of musk,
 half an ounce; mix these well  together, and  then
 put the compound  into the pan ot  soap.  Stir the
 whole well, and incorporate the perfumes wilh the
 soap, on a marble stone by means of a muller. Put
 up into small jars,  or preserve in a mass in a large
 jar, according to sale or convenience.  If kept for
 12 months,  this soap will be fo.md by comparison,
 to be far preferable to the best soap that ever came
 from Naples.
|   The common copperas will not answer so v>.
 £3 it has already al« iorbed oxygen.
           To makt- common black ink.
   Pour a gallon of boiling soft water on a  pound
 of powdered galls,, previously put into a proper
 vessel.  Stop the  mouth of the vessel, and set it
 in the sun in summer, or in winter where it may
 be warmed by any  fire, and let it stand two or three
 days.  Then add 1 .alf a pound of green vitriol pow-
 dered, and havit .g stirred the mixtt-re well toge-
 ther with a woof len spatula, let it stand again for
 two or three  dv »¥»,, repeating the stirring, when
INKS, fee. 
1.94                           UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 add further to it 5 ounces of gum arabic dissolved
 in a quart of boiling water, and lastly, 2 ounces of
 alum, after which let the ink be strained through a
 coarse linen cloth for use.
   Anot'ier.—A good and durable black ink may be
 made by the following directions: To  2 pints of
 water add 3 ounces of the  dark  coloured  rough-
 skinned Aleppo galls in gross powder, and of rasp-
 ed logwood, green vitriol, and gum arabic, each,
 1 oz.
   This mixture is to be put into a convenient ves-
 sel, and well shaken four or five times a day, for
 ten or twelve  days, at the  end of  which time it
 will be fit for use, though it wil! improve by re-
 maining longer on  the ingredients.  Vinegar in-
 stead of water makes a deeper coloured ink;  but
 its action on pens soon  spoils them.
               Shining black ink.
   Beat up well together in an iron mortar the fol-
 lowing ingredients in a dry state; viz. 8 oz. of best
 blue  gall-nuts, 4 oz. of copperas, or sulphate of
 iron, 2 oz. of clear gum arabic, and 3 pints ol clear
 rain water.
   When properly powdered, put to the above; let
 the whole be shaken in  a stone bottle three or four
 times a day, for seven days,  and at the end of that
 time, pour the liquor off gently into another stone
 bottle, which place in  an airy situation to prevent
 it from becoming foul or mothery.  When used put
 the liquor into the ink-stand as required.
        Process for making the best ink.
   Take 6 quarts (beer  measure)  of clear  water,
 soft pr hard, and boil in it for about an hour, 4 oz.
 of the best Campeachy logwood, chipped very thin
 across the grain, adding, from time to time, boiling
 water to  supply in part the loss by  evaporation;
 strain the liquor while hot, and suffer it to cool. If
 the liquor is then short  of 5 quarts, make it equal
 lo this  quantity,  ry the addition  of cold  water.
 After which, let 1 lb. of bruised blue galls, or 20
 oz. of the best common galls, be added.  Let a
 paste be prepared by triturating 4 oz. of sulphate
 of iron  (green vitriol)calcined  to whiteness, and
 let half an ounce of acetite  of copper (verdigris)
 be well incorporated together with the  above de-
 coction, into a mass, throwing in also,  3 oz.  of
 coarse brown sugar, and 6 oz. of gum Senegal-, or
 Arabic.  Put the materials into a stone  bottle of
 such a sire as to half fill it;  let the mouth be left
 open, and shake the bottle Avell, twice or thrice a
 day. In about a fortnight it may be filled, and kept
 in w;-ll stopped bottles lor use.  It requires to be
 protected from the l.ost, which would considerably
 injure it.
 Indelible black ink without galls or green vitriol.
   Infuse a pound of pomegranate peels, broken to
 a gross powder, for 24 hou:s in a gallon and a half
 of water, and afterwards boil the mixture till l-3d
 of the fluid  be wasted.   Then add  to it 1  lb. of
 Roman vitriol, and 4 oz. of gum arabic powdered,
 and continue the  boiling till the vitriol  and gum
 be dissolved, after which the ink must be strained
 through a coarse linen  cloth, when it will be fit
 for use.
   This ink is somewhat more expensive, and yet
 not so  good  in hue as  that  made  by the general
 method; but the colour which t has is not liable
to vanish or fade in any length of time.
Indestructible ink for n listing the action of corro-
                sive substances.
  On  many  occasions, il is of importance to em-
ploy an ink indestructible by any process, hat will
 not equally destroy the material on which it is ap-
plied.  For black ink, 25 grains of copal, in pow-
der, are to be dissolved in 200 grains of oil of la-
vender, by the assistance of a gentle heat; and are
then to be mixed with 2$ grains of lamp black, and
 J a grain of indigo: for red ink use i20 grains ol
 oil of lavender, 17 grains of copal, and  60 grains
 of vermdion.   A little oil of lavender,  or of tur-
 pentine, may be added, if the  ink be found too
 thick.  A mixture of genuine asphaltum dissolved
 in oil of turpentine, amber varnish, and lamp-black,
 would be still superior.
   This  ink is  particularly  useful for labelling
 phiais, he. containing chemical or corrosive sub-
 stances.
                Best ink powder.
   Infuse a pound of galls powdered, and 3 ounces
 of pomegranate  peels, in a gallon of soft water for
 a week, in  a gentle heat, and then strain oft" the
 fluid through a coarse linen cloth.   Then add to it
 8 oz. of vitriol  dissolved in a quart of water,  and
 let them remain for a day or two, preparing in the
 meantime a decoction  of  logwoou, by  boiling a
  Sound of the chips in a gallon of  water, till l-3d
  e wasted, and then straining the  remaining fluid
 while it is hot.   Mix the decoction and  the solu-
 tion of galls and v triol together, and add 5 oz. of
 gum arabic, and then evaporate the mixture over
 a common fire to about 2 quarts, when the remain-
 der must be put into a vessel  proper for that pur-
 pose, and reduced to dryness, by hanging the ves-
 sel in boiling water.  1'he mass left, after the fluid
 has wholly exhaled, must be well  powdered; and
 when wanted for use, may be converted .into  ink
 by the addition of water.
   Anot/ier.—Compositions  were   also  formerly
 made for portable, or extemporaneous inks, with-
 out galls or vif'ol,  of one of which  the following
 is a recipe:—Take  £ a pound of  honey, and  the
 yolk of an egg, and mix them well together. Add
 2 drachms  ot gum arabic  finely  levigated, and
 thicken the whole with lamp-black lo the consist-
 ence of a stiff paste, which, being put to a  proper
 quantity of  water, may be used as ink.
         Ink powder for immediate use.
   Reduce into  subtle powder 10 oz. of gall-nuts,
 3 oz. of Roman vitriol,  (green copperas,)  with 2
 oz. each of roche alum and gum arabic. Then  put
 a little of this mixture into a glass of white wine,
 and it will be fit for instant use.
   Another.—'Take equal parts of black rosin, burnt
 peach or apricot stones, vitriol and gall-nuts, and.
 2 of gum arabic, put the whole in powder or cake
 as required.
                Exchequer ink.
   To 40 pounds of galls, add 10 pounds of gum, 9
 pounds ot copperas, and 45  gallons of soft water.
 This ink will endure for centuries.
                   Red Ink.
  Take of the raspings of Brazil wood a quarter ot
 a pound, and infuse thein two or three days in  vi-
 r.egar,  which should be colourless where  it  can be
 so procured.  Boil the infusion  an hour over a gen-
 tle fire, and afterwards Slier it, while hot, through
 paper laid in an earthenware cullender.   Put it
 again  over the file, and  dissolve in it; first £  an
 ounce of gum arabic, and afterwards of alum and
 white sugar, each 1-2 an ounce. Care should  be
taken that the Brazil wood be not adulterated with
the Brasilelto or Campeachy wood.
   Other preparations.—Red ink may likewise be
prepared, by the above process, of white wine in-
 stead of vinegar; but it shculd be sour, or disposed to
 be so, otherwise, a third or fourth of vinegar should
be added, in order to its taking the stronger tinc-
ture from the wood.   Small beer has been some-
limes used tor the same  purpose, but the ink will
not be  so bright, and when it  is  used, vinegar
should be added, the quantity of gum arable di-
minished, aud the sugar wholly omitted.
            Red ink from vermilion.
  Take the  glair of four eggs, a tea-spoonful  of 
INKS, &c.
195
white sugar, or sugar candy, beaten to a powder,
and as  much spirit of wine; beat them together,
till they are of the consistence of oil: then add such
a proportion  of vermilion as  will produce a red
colour sufficiently strong; and keep the mixture in
a small phial or well-stopped ink-bottle for use.
The composition should be well shaken together
before it is used.
  Instead of the glair of eggs, gum water  is  fre-
quently used; but thin size, made of isinglass, with
a little honey, .s much belter for the purpose.
              Permanent red ink.
  Take of  oil of lavender,  120 grains, of copal  in
powder,  17 grains, red sulphuret of mercury, 60
grains.  The oil of lavender being dissipated with a
gentle heat, a colour will be left on the paper sur-
rounded with the copal; a substance insoluble in
water, spirits, acids, or alkaline solutions.
  This composition possesses a permanent colour,
and a MS.  written  with it, may he exposed to the
process commonly used for restoring the colour of
printed books, Avithout injury  to the Avriting.   In
this manner interpolations with common ink may
be removed.
               Green writing ink.
  Take an  ounce of verdigris, and having powder-
ed it, put to it a quart of vinegar, &c. after it has
stood two or three  days strain off the liquid;  or,
instead  of  this, use th •• crystals of verdigris  dis-
solved in water; then dissolve, in a pint of either
of these  solutions, five drachms of gum arabic, and
two drachms of white sugar.
              Yellow writing ink.
  Boil two ounces of the French berries in  a quart
of water, with half an ounce of alum, till one-third
of the fluid be evaporated.  Then dissofre in it
two drachms of gum arabic, and one  drachm of
sugar, and  afterAvards a drachm of alum powdered.
                   Blue ink.
  This may be made by diffusing Prussian blue,
or indigo, through strong gum-watf r.   The com-
mon water-colour cakes, diffused in water, will
make sufficiently good coloured inks for most pur-
poses.
           Copper plate printers' ink.
  Ink for the rolling-press is made  of linseed oil,
burnt in the same manner as that for  common
printing ink; and is then mixed  with  Frankfort-
black, finely ground.  There are no certain pro-
portions which  can be determined in this kind of
ink; every  woikman adding oil or black to his ink,
as he thinks proper, in order to make it suit his
purpose.  Some, h-.jwever, mix a portion of com-
mon boiled cil which has never been burnt: but
this must necessarily be a bad practice, as such oil
is apt to go through the paper; a fault very com-
mon in prints, especially if the paper  is not very
thick.   No soap is added; because the ink is not
cleared off from the copper-plates, with alkaline
ley, as in common printing, but with a brush dip-
ped in oil.
  Another  method.—Instead of Frankfort, or other
kinds of black commonly used, the following com-
position may be substituted, and will form a much
deeper and more beautiful black, than can  be ob-
tained by any other method.  Take of the deepest
Prussian blue five  parti* and  of the deepest co-
loured lake and  brown pink, each  one part.
Grind them well with oil of turpentine, and after-
wards with the strong and weak oils in  the man- j
ner and proportion  above directed.  The colours
need not be bright for this purpose, but they  should
be the deepest of the kind, and perfectly transpa-
rent in  oil, as the whole effect depends on that
quality.
                 Printers' ink.
  Ten or twelve gallons of nut-oil are set over the
I fire, in a large iron pot, and brought to boil.  It
j is then stirred with an iron ladle; and whilst boiling
| the inflammable vapour arising from iteithertaKes
| fire of itself, or is kindled, and is suffered to burn
 in this way for about half an hour, the pot being
 partially ebvered, so as to regulaie the body of the
j flame, and consequently, the heat communicated
 to the oil.   It is frequently stirred during this time,
 that the whole may  be heatod equally; otherwise,
 a pa.t would  be charred, and the rest left imper-
 fect.  The flame  Is then extinguished by entirely
 covering the pot.   The oil, by this process, has
 much of its unctuous quality destroyed, and when
 cold is  oP the consistence of soft turpentine: it is
 then called varnish.  After  this,  it is  made  into
 ink, by mixture with the requisite quantity of lamp-
 black; of  which about 2^ ounces are sufficient for
 16 ounces of the prepared oil.  The oil loses, by
 the boiling, about an eighth of its weight, and emits
 very offensive fumes.   Several other additions are
 made to the oil during the boiling, such as crusts
 of bread, onions, and sometimes turpentine. These
 are kept secret by the preparers. The intention
 i  f them is more effectually  to destroy part  oi the
 unctuous quality of oil, to give it more body, to en-
 able it to adhere better to the wetted paper, and to
 spread on the types neatly and uniformly.
    Besides these additions, others are made by the
 printers, of which  the  most important is a little
 fine indigo in powder, to improve the beauty of the
 colour.
    Another method.—I lb. of lamp-black, ground
 very fine, or run  through a  lawn  sieve, 2 ounces
 of Prussian blue, ground very fine; 4 ounces of lin-
 seed oil, well  boiled  and skimmed, 4 ounces of
 spirit of turpentine, very clear, 4 ounces of soft
 varnish, or neat's foot oil.  To be well boiled and
 skimmed, and, while boiling, the top burned off by
 several  times  applying  lighted paper.  Let  these
 be well mixed, then put the whole in a jug, place
 that in a  pan, and  boil them very  carefully one
 hour.
            A fine black printing ink.
   Less turpentine and oil, without Prussian blue,
 for common ink.
                Best printing ink.
   In a secured iron pot, (fire outside when  possi-
 ble), boil  12 gallons of nut oil; stir Avith iron ladle,
 long handle;  while boiling, put an iron cover part-
 ly over, set the vapour on fire by lighted paper of-
 ten applied, keep well stirring, and on the fire, one
 hour at least (or till the oily particles are burnt), then
 add  1 pounu  of onions cut  in  pieces, and a few
 crusts of bread, to get out the residue of  oil; also
 varnish, 16 oz. fine  lamp-black, 3 ounces, ground
 indigo,  £ ounce.  Boil well  one hour.
            Good common printing ink.
   Take 16 ounces of varnish, 4 ounces of linseed
 oil, well boiled, 4 ounces of cfoar oil of turpen-
; tine, 16 ounces of fine  lamp-black, 2  ounces of
 Prussian blue, fine, 1  ounce  of indigo, fine.   Boil
 one hour.
               Printers' red ink.
   Soft varnish and vermilion with white of eggs,
 not very tiiick.  Common varnish, red-lead, and
 orange.
   Blue.—Prussian blue, and a little ivcry-black,
 with varnish and eggs very thick.   Common indigi
 and varnish; then wash off with boiling lees.
 Perpetual ink for inscriptions on tomb stones, mar-
J                    bles, &c.
   This ink is formed  by mixing about three parts
 cf pitch with one  part of lamp-black, and making
 them incorporate by melting the pitch.  With this
 composition, used in a melted state, the letters are
 filled, and will, without extraordinary violence, en-
 dure as long as the stone itself. 
196
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
                  Indian ink.
  Let iToryor lamp-black  be mixed with a small
portion of Prussian blue or indigo, for a blue black,
and  let the same  blacks he  united  with raw or
burnt umber, bistre, Vandyke or any  other brown,
instead of the  b.'ue, for a brown  black.   These
should be mixed together  in a weak gum-water,
(perhaps matt-work would answer the purpose bet-
ter) first levigating them very fine, in common wa-
ter, on a marble slab.  When dried to the consis-
tence of a paste, let the glutinous matter be  well
mixed with them.   That will be found sufficiently
strong, which binds the composition, so as to  pre-
vent rubbing off by the touch.  Indian ink draw-
ings should be  fondled as slightly as possible.
Too much gum in the composition will create an
offensive gloss.
  Another method.—Take of isinglass, 6 oz., and
12 oz. of soft water; make into size; add 1 oz. of re-
fined liquorice,  ground up with 1 oz. of genuine
ivory-black, and stir the whole well.  Evaporate
the water in balneum maris; and form  the sticks
or cakes.
          A substitute for Indian ink.
  Boil parchment slips or cuttings of glove leather,
in water till it forms a size, which, when cool, be-
comes of  the consistence of jelly,  then,  having
blackened an earthen plate, by  holding it over the
flame of a candle, mix up with a camel hair pencil,
the fine lamp-black thus obtained, with some of the
above  size, while  the plate  is still  vyarm.   This
black requires no griniling, and produces an ink of
the same colour, which works  as  freely with the
pencil, and is as perfectly transparent aj the best
Indian ink.
        Permanent ink for marking  linen.
  Take a drachm of nitrate-of  silver (lunar cans-
tic), dissolve it in a glass mortar  in double its
weight of pure water; add to this solution 10 drops
of nitric acid:  this is the ink.  In  another  glass
vessel dissolve a drachm of salt of tartar in 1^ oz.
of water;  this is usually pamed the liquid pounce,
with which the linen is wet previously to the ap-
plication of the ink.
   Another method.  Take  of  lunar caustic, two
drachms, distilled water, 6 oz.   Dissolve, and add
  ?um water, 2 dr.  Dissolve also prepared  natron,
  oz. in 4 oz.  ot water,  and  add gum water,  $
oz.
   Wet the linen where you intend  to write with
this last solution; dry it, and  then  write upon  it
with the first liquor, using a clean  pen.   If potash
is used instead of  natron, the ink will spread.
                Sympathetic inks.
   Sympathetic inks are such as do not appear after
they are written with, but which  may be  made to
appear at pleasure, by certain means to be used for
that purpose.  A variety of substances have been
used as sympathetic inks, among which are the
following:
         Nilro-muriates of gold and tin.
   Write with a solution of gold in aqua regia, and
 let the paper dry gently in the shade.   Nothing
 ■vill appear, but  draw a sponge  over it, wetted
 with a solution of tin in aqua regia, and the writing
 will immediately  appear of a purple colour.
                 GaUate of iron.
   Write with  an infusion of galls,  and when the
 writing is required to appear,dip it  into a solution
 of sulphide of iron:  the letters will appear black.
             Nitro-muriate of cobalt.
   Pulverise 1 ounce of cobalt, and pour  over it 4
 ounces of nitric acid in a retort   Digest in a sand
 bath for  6 hours.  An ounce  of muriate of  soda,
 diluted in 4 ounces of water, must now be added;
 filter and preserve  the compound.   When  to be
used, it must be diluted witn  three times its bulk
of distilled water,  to prevent corrosion of the
paper.
   The nitric acid, alone, will answer the purpose
without the muriate of soda.  The  salt here ob-
tained is seldom a pure salt of cobalt, as iron is so
often combined with it; the solution  of cobalt and
iron  is  green when  exposed to  heat: but Avhen a
pure blue is wished  for, the oxide of cobalt must
be precipitated by pure potass, which re-dissolves
the oxide of cobalt, and answers as a sympathetic
ink.   This is  of a red colour before it is written
with, and blue after.
           Sympathetic ink of cobalt.
  Digest zaffre in aqua regia, and dilute the solu.
tion with four times its weight of pure water. Cha-
racters written with it, do not appear till the paper
is warmed, when traces of the pen are visible, un-
der a fine sea-green colour.   This  colour disap-
pears as the paper cools, and is renewed on warm-
ing again: and thus alternately vanishes and  re-
appears, for an interminate number  of limes.  As
the solution of regulus of cobalt, or zaffre in spirit
of nitre,  acquires a  reddish colour,  by the appli-
cation of heat, so a variety of colours may be giv-
en.  Thus landscapes may be sketched with com-
mon ink, to give a prospect of winter;  while  the
solution of cobalt in aqua regia, on the application
of heat, gives the verdure  of fpring; and the ni-
trous solution may represer.'; fruit, flowers, &c.
   Another sympathetic ink.—Write on paper with
a solution of nitrate of bismuth, and  smear  the
writing over, by means of a feather,  with some in-
fusion of galls.  The letters  which  were before
invisible, will now appear  of a brown colour.   If
the previous use of nitrate of bismuth be concealed
from  the spectators,  great surprise will be excited
by the appearance of writing, merely by the dash
of a feather.  The  same  phenomenon will take
place, when infusion of galls is written with,  and
the salt of bismuth applied afterwards.
   Another.—Write on a sheet of  paper, any sen-
tence with a transparent infusion of  gall-nuts,  and
dip the paper in  a transparent solution of the  sul-
phate of iron.  The writing, which wu: before in-
visible, will now, on a slight  exposure to the air,
turn quite black. A neater way ot performing this
experiment will  be  by smearing the written parts
over  with a feather dipped in the solution  of  the
metallic salt;  it  may also be reversed,  by writing
with the salt, and smearing with the infusion.
   Another.—If a letter be written with a solution
of sulphate of  iron,  the inscription will be  invisi-
ble; but if it afterwards be rubbc .1 over by a feather,
 dipped in a solution of prussiate of potass, it will
 appear of a beautiful blue colour.
   Another.—Write  a letter with a solution of ni-
 trate of bismuth.—The letters will be invisiole.
 If a feather be now dipped in a solution of prus-
 siate of potass,  and rubbed over the  paper,  the
 writing will appear of a beautiful  yellow colour,
 occasioned by a  formation of prussiate of bismuth.
      To prevent ink from freezing in winter.
   Instead of water use brandy, with the same in-
 gredients which enter into the composition of  an;
 ink,  and it will  never freeze.
            To prevent nuuld in  inks.
   In order to secure the above and other inks from
 growing mouldy, a quarter of  a  pint or more of
  spirit of wine may be  added;  but  to  prevent its
 containing any acid, which may injure the ink, »
 little tartar or pearl-ashes should be added, previ-
  ously, and the spirit poured off from it, which  will
  lender it innocent with regard lo the colour of the
  ink.
   Another method.—The most simple, yeteff*tual
  method, is to infuse a small piece of salt about the-
  size of a hazel-nut  to each quart. 
INKS, he.
197
            To take out spots of ink.
  As soon as the accident happens, wet the place
with juice of sorrel or lemon, or with vinegar, and
the best hard Avhite soap.
         To make new writing look old.
  Take a drachm of saffron, Knd infuse it into half
a pint of ink, and warm it over a gentle fire, and it
will  cause whatever is written with it to turn  yel-
low, and appear as if of many years standing.
     To write on greasy paper or parchment.
  Put to a bullock's gall a handful of salt, and a
quarter of a pint of vinegar, stir it until it is mixed
well; when  the.paper or parchment is g: easy, put
a drop of the  gall into the ink, and  the difficulty
will  be instantly obviated.
          To restore decayed wri'ings.
  Cover the letters v/ith phlogisticated  or prussic
alkali, with the addition ofa diluted mineral acid;
upon the application of which, the letters change
very speedily to a deep blue colour, of great beauty
and  intensity.  To prevent the  spreading of the
colour, which, by blotting the parchment, detracts
greatly from the legibility, the alkali should beput
on first, and the diluted acid added upon it.   The
method found to answer best has been, to spread
the  alkali thin Avith a feather or a bit of stick cut
to a  blunt point.  Though the alkali should occa-
sion no sensible change of colour, yet the moment
the acid comes upon it, every trace of a letter turns
at once to a fine blue, which soon acquires its full
intensity, and is beyond comparison  stronger than
the colour of the original trace.  If,  then, the cor-
ner  of a bit of blotting paper be carefully and dex-
terously applied near the letters, so as to imbibe
the  superfluous liquor, the  staining of the parch-
ment may be in a great measure avoided; for it is
this superfluous liquor which, absorbing part of the
colouring matter from the letters, becomes a dye
to whatever it touches.   Care  must  be taken not
to bring the blotting paper in contact with the let-
ters, because  the colouring matter is soft whilst
wet, and may easily be rubbed  off. The acid chiefly
employed is the marine; but both the vitriolic and
nitrous succeed very well.  They should be so far
diluted  as  not to  be  in danger of corroding the
parchment, alter which the degree of strength does
not seem to be a matter of much nicety.
   To take impressions from recent manuscripts.
   This is done by means of fusible metals.  In or-
der to show the application of il, paste a piece of
 paper on the bottom of a china  saucer, and  all jw
 it to dry; then write upon it with common writing
 ink, and sprinkle some finely powdered gum arabic
 ove»*  the writing, which produces a  slight relief.
 When it is well dried, and the adhering powder
 brushed off, the fusible metal is poured into the
 saucer, and is cooled rapidly, to prevent crystalli-
 zation. The metal then takes a cast of the writing,
 and when  it is immersed in slightly warm water,
 Co remove adhering gum, impressions may be taken
 from it as from a Hopper plate.
   Another method.—Put a little sugar into a com-
 mon writing ink, aud let the  writing be executed
 with  this upon common  paper, sized as  usual.
When a  copy is required,  let unsized paper be
taken and lightly moistened with a *ponge.  Then
apply the wet paper to the writing, and passing
lightly a flat-iron,  of a moderate heat, such axis
used  by laundresses, over the unsized paper, the
copy will be immediately produced. This method
requires  no machine or preparation, and may be
employed in any situation.
      To produce a facsimile ofanv writing.
  The pen should be made of glass enamel; the
point being small  and finely polished; so that the
part above the point may be large  enough to hold
as much  ink  as, or more than a common writing
pen.
  A  mixture  of equal parts of Frankfort  black,
and fresh butter, is now to  be smeared over sheets
of paper, and rubbed off after a certain time. The
paper, thus smeared,  is to  be  pressed  for some
hours; taking care to have  sheets of blotting-paper
between each of the sheets of black paper.  When
fit  for use, writing paper is put between  sheets of
blackened paper, and the upper sheet is to be writ-
ten on, with common writing ink, by the glass or
enamel pen.  By this method,  not  only the copy
 is obtained on which the pen Avrites, but also, two,
 or more, made by means of the blackened paper.
         Substitute for copying machines.
   In the common ink used, "dissolve lump sugar
 (1 drachm to 1 oz.  of ink).   Moisten the copying-pa-
 per,  and then put it in soft cap paper to absorb the
 superfluous moisture.—Put the moistened paper on
 the writing,   place both between some soft paper,
 and either put the whole in the  folds of a carpet,
 or roll upon a ruler three or four times.
                To copy writings.
   Take a piece of unsized paper exactly of the
 size  of  the  paper to  be  copied; moisten it with
 water, or  with the following liquid: Take of dis-
 tilled vinegar, two pounds weight,  dissolve it  in
 one ounce of boracic acid; then take four ounces of
 oyster shells  calcined  to whiteness,  and carefully
 freed from their  brown crust; put them into the
 vinegar, shake the mixture frequently for twenty-
 four hoars,  then let  it stand till it deposits its
 sediment; filter the clear part through unsized pa-
 per into a glass vessel; then add two ounces of the
 best Aleppo  galls bruised, and place the liquor  in
 a warm place; shake it frequently for twenty-four
 hours, then filter the liquor again through unsized
 paper, and add to it after  filtration, one quart, ale
 measure,  of pure water.   It must then stand  24
 hours; and be filtered again, if it shows  a disposi-
 tion to  deposit any sediment, which  it  generally
 does.  When paper has been wet with this liquid,
 put  it between two thick unsized  papers to absorb
 the superfluous moisture; then lay it over the writ-
 ing to be  copied, and  put  a piece cf clean writing
 paper above  it.   Put the  whole on the board of a
 rolling press, and press them through the rolls,  as
 is done in printing copper-plates,  and  s» copy  of
 the  writing will appear on both sides of the  thin
 moistened paper; on  one  side in  a reversed order
 and direction, but on the  other side in the natural
 order and' dfreetion, of, the line^
MEDICINE.
       General rides for ti-eating diseases.
  Rule 1.—In every complaint, whatever it nncy
*e called, if you find  the  pulse quick, hard, full,
and \tronar,-the head achy^tongue foul,-skm
hot, or tfS'e maiks which denote it * »»££
matory mature, remember the plan is to reduce k 
1D8
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 by bleeding,—purging,—low diet,—drinking plen-
 tifully of cold water and lemonade,—rest, he.
   Rule 2.—If on the contrary, the pulse be small,
 soft, feeble, and intermitting,—the  tongue  dark,
 and great debility or weakness is evident, reverse
 the  whole plan; the diet  must be generous and
 nourishing,—the I'OAvels opened with gentle laxa-
 tives,—and the strength supported by bark, sul-
 phate of quinine, wine and tonics of various kinds. I
   It is necessary, however, to be careful in distin-
 guishing the weakness which is here meant, from
 that state of debility which arises from excessiA'e
 action,  from  the .stuffing up of the vessels, and
 which requires the  lancet.   As a mistake might
 prove fa..al, attention should be paid to the pulse,
 by which they can be easily known.  In that state
 which requires tonics, the  pulse is small, soft,—
 sometimes like a thread and quick.   In the other,
 it is slower and full, giving considerable resistance
 fo the pressure of the finger.
   Rule  3.—If in addition to those symptoms men-
 tioned in the second rule, the tongue be covered
 with a black coat,—foul daik looking sores form
 about the gums and  insides of the  cheeks,—the
 breath be  offensive,  &c. the  same class of reme-
 dies is to be vigorously employed, with a free use
 of* acids and other" antiseptic articles.
   Rule 4.—Severe local pains, as in the head, side,
he. require the use of the lancet, purging and blis-
ters to the  part.
   Rule 5.—Incessant and earnest entreaties on the
part of the sick, for, or longing after, any particular
article of diet, if steadily persevered in, may be
 safely indulged, whether the use of it agrees or not
with our pre-conceived ideas on the subject.
  Rule 6.—In all fevers, where the pulse is quick,
full and strong,—the skin  burning to the touch,
and there is no perspiration, dash cold water over
the head and shoulders of the  patient, wipe him
diy and put him to bed. If in consequence of this.
a chill  be  experienced, and the  pulse sink, give
 warm wine, he. and  omit the water for the future.
Should a pleasant glow, over the whole frame, fol-
low the  affusion, and the patient feel relieved by
it, repeat it as often as may be necessary.
  Rule 7.—Observe  carefully, the effects of,vari-
ous articles ot  food, as well  as  physic, upon your
own body, and choose those  which experience
proves lo agree best  with you.   Il is a vulgar but
true saying, that " What is one man's meat is ano-
ther's poison."
   Rule 8.—Keep a sick room  always well venti-
lated.  Plenty of fresh air  is an important reme-
dial agent in all diseases.
  It is not  meant by this that the patient should
 be exposed to a direct current of air, which should
 be always avoided by well and sick.
              OF THE PULSE.

  The pulse is nothing more than the beating of
an artery.  Every time the heart contracts, a por-
tion of b.ood is forced  into the arteries, which di-
late or swell to fot it pass, and  then immediately
regain their former size, until by a second  stroke
of the same organ, a fresh column of blood is push-
ed through them, when a similar ac'ion is repeat-
ed.   This swelling and contracting of the arteries
then constitutes the pulse, and consequently il may
be found in every pi.it of the  bouy. where those
vessels run near enough to the  surface to be felt.
Physicians look for it at the  wrist, from motives
of convenience.
  The strength and velocity of the pulse vary much
in ditferent persons,  even in a sta e of  perfect
health.   It is much quicker  in children than in
 adults; and in old  men, it grows more slow  and
 feeble, owing to the decreased energy d the hearj.
 The pulse » increased both in strong and veloci-
 ty by running, walking, riding, »r«. jumping; by
 eating, drinking, singing, speak.ng,  and by joy,
 anger, 8cc.  It is diminished  in like manner, by
 fear, want of nourishment, melancholy,  excessive
 evacuations, or by whatever tends to debilitate the
 system.
  In foeling the pulse then in  sick persons, allow-
 ance should be made for these causes, or what is
 better, we should wait  until their temporary ef-
 fects hav„ ceased.           •
  A full, tense and strong pulse, is when the ar-
 tery sivells boldly under the finger, and resists its
 pressure more >r less; if, in addition to this,  the
 pulsation  be very rapid, it is called quick, full,
 and strong; if slow,  the contrary.
  A hard, corded pulse, is that in which the arte-
 ry feels like the string of a violin, or a piece of
 tightened cat-gut,  giving considerable resistance
 to the pressure of the finger.
  The soft, and intermitting  pulses, are easily
 known by their names.   In cases of extreme  de-
 bility,  on the approach of death, and in some par-
 ticular diseases, the artery vibrates under the fin-
 ger like n thread.
  In feeling the pulse, three or four fingers should
 be laid on it at once.  The most convenient spot
 to do this, as already mentioned, is the wrist,  but
 it can be readily done in the  temple, just before,
 and close to the ear, in the benil ot the arm, at  the
 under part of the lower end of  the thigh, among
 the hamstrings, and on the top of the foot.
  There are two kinds of blood-vessels in the hu-
 man body: arteries and veins.   The arteries carry
the blood from the heart  lo the extremities of  the
body, where  they are  connected with the  veins
which bring it back again.  An artery pulsates oi
beats; a vein does not.
                 OF FEVER.

  Fever is, by far, the most common complaint to
which the human body is subject. It may be brief-
ly described as  a combination of heat, thirst, loss
of appetite, Weakness, and inability to sleep.  It
makes its appearance in two ways:  either sudden-
ly and violently, or gradually and gently.  When
it comes on in the first manner, a cold  shaking, at-
tended with sickness at the stomach, or vomiting,
marks  itaccess; the cold is more-severe than in
the latter, as is  also the pain in the head, and other
symptoms.  - When its attack is gradual, a feeling
of soreness over the whole body, such as is expe-
rienced after n hard day's work by one not accus-
tom sd to it, shows its approach.  Nausea, pains in
the head, chills, and more or less heat and thirst
soon follow.
  As these  symptoms vary infinitely  in their de-
grees of violence, the vigour of the treatment to be
pursued,  must differ accordingly.  Thus the same
directions that are given for simple inflammatory
fever, must be adhered to, in one whose symptoms
are lighter, though similar, only there is no ne-
cessity for pushing them to so great an extent.

           Simple inflammatory fever.
  Symptoms.—Chills, flushed lace, skin hot, eyes
red, pulse quirk,  full, strong, and regular, great
thirst, tongue white, urine high-coloured and small
in quantity,  bowels costive, breathing  quick, he.
  Causes.—Cold,  violent exercise, while exposed
to the heat of  the sun, intemperance, the  indul
gence of unruly passions.
  Treatment.—Bleed the patient at the very be* 
MEDICINE.                                      jgg
  inning of the attack.  The quantity of blood to
  e taken, should be regulated by the strength and
 age of the person,  and the violence  of the symp-
 toms.   In this country,  where  diseases are  very
 acute, from 12 to 15 ounces is an average quantity
 for a robust man.  If there be  great pain in the
 head, shave* it and apply a blister, or cloths wrung
 out of iced vinegar  and water, frequently reneAved.
 The bowels are to  be freely opened, wjth Epsom
 or glanbet salts, and the diet should consist of
 plenty of cold water,  riee water, or lemonade.   If
 ihe heat of the body  be excessive and  burning to
 the touch, and ♦h'ire  is no perspiration, take the
 patient out of his bed, support him on his feet, and
 let several buckets of cold water be poured  over
 his head and shoulders, in rapid succession,  then
 wipe him dry and replace him in bed; should he
 not be able to stand, lay him on the floor, and dash
 the water over him in that position.  If  from ex-
 cessive weakness, or a groundless fear of the con-
 sequences, this is objected  to, sponge the whole
 body with cold vinegar and water.   All  these re-
 medies are to be repeated, until the disease is over-
 come.  If there be intense pain in the head or side,
 apply a blister.   The saline  mixture, below, will
 be found useful throughout; and to  promote  per-
 spiration, five  or six grains of Dover's powder,
 taking care not to drink any thing for some time
 after it.  An emetic, at the very onset, sometimes
 cuts  short the disease.  The room should be kept
 quiet, cool and dark, every source of excitement
 being removed.
   Saline mixture.—Salt of tartar, 2 drachms, wa-
 ter, 6 ounces.   When the tartar is dissolved, add
 by degrees portions  of fresh lemon juice till it
 ceases to effervesce.   A table-spoonful may be ta-
 ken every half hour.

        Intermittent, or fever and ague.
   Of this fever, there are several varieties, which
 differ from each other only in the length of time that
 elapses between their attacks.  There is  one call-
ed quotidian, in which it comes  on every twenty-
four  hours; another named tertian, in which it ar-
rives every forty-eight hours, and the third quar-
tan,  because the interval lasts seventy-two hours.
   Symptoms.—The symptoms of fever ana  ague
are, unfortunately, too well known among us, com-
mercing Avith  yawning,  stretching  and  uneasi-
ness; this is succeeded by slight  chills  or shiver-
ings, that end in a  violent or  convulsive shaking
of the  whole  body.  This is the cold  fit, and is
immediately followed  by the fever or  hot fit.  The
pulse rises, the skin becomes hot, pain in the head,
tongue white,  and all  the marks of fever, termina-
 ting in a profuse sweat, which gradually subsiding,
 leaves  the patient  in his natural  state, though
 somewhat weakened.
   Treatment.—On the first alarm that is given by
 a chill, or any of those feelings indicative of its ap-
 proach, take 50 or 60 drops of laudanum, in a glass
 \ji warm wine, with a little sugar and a few drops
 of the  essence of peppermint, get into bed,  and
 cover yourself with several blankets; this seldom
 fails to cut short the disease.   If the  cold fi% how-
 ever, has pasfed  by, the next accession should  be
 carefully watch? 1, and the same remedy resorted
 to.  If the inflammatory symptoms seem to require
 it, bleed and open the bowels Avith senna and salts;
 when this  is done, in the intervals  use a quinine
 pill «f one grain every hour; if  it cannot be  pro-
 cured, take as large doses of Peruvian bark as the
 stomach will bear;  in addition to this, endeavour
 during the cold fit to bring on the hot one, as spee-
 dily  as possible, by warm drinks, bladders or bot-
tles  filled, with warm •yater  applied to the soles
 ot the felt and'the stomach,   freak whiskey punch
answers this purpose very well, it also is of use by
inducing sweat, when the hot stage is formed.  It
the disease resists this treatment, try 6 drops of
Fowler's solution of arsenic three times a day,
with the  bark, gradually increasing it to 9 or 10
drops at each dose.  As this is a powerful remedy,
care must be taken to watch its effects; if it produce
sickness at the stomach, it must be laid aside.  To
restore the tone of the system when getting better,
remove to a healthy pure fir, use gentle and daily
exercise, with a generous diet, wine and bitters.
If the liver or spleen become affected, recourse
must be had to mercury.
  N. B. Much mischief is done by giving either
the quinine or the bark too early in the disease,
and  before its inflammatory stage is passed.  It
should never be employed until the bowels  have
been well opened and the inflammation reduced.
                Remittent fever.
  This is a kind of fever which occasionally abates,
but does not entirely cease, before a fresh  attack
comes on, so that the patient is never completely
free from it.   The symptoms  are of three  kinds.
When bile predominates, it is called Bilious Re-
mittent or Bilious Fever, which in a highly  aggra-
vated state  is the true yellow fever of the United
States and West Indies.  This constitutes the first
kind of remittent.
   The second is marked by debility, when it  is
called typhus or low nervous fever.
  The third exhibits all those marks of debility
and putrcsceucy, which constitute putrid  fever.
                 Bilious fevsr.
  Symptoms.—In  this disease all the marks of
great excitement ar:J a superfluity of bile are visi-
ble;  the skin is hot, the pulse tense and full, tongue
white in the commencement, changing to brown,
as the fever increases, breathing hurried and anx-
ious, bowels very costive, and  skin of a yellowish
hue.  In bad cases, there is great pain in the  head,
delirium,  the  patient  picks at the bed clothes, a
convulsive jerking of the tendons at  the wrist,
tongue black and  furred, a deep yellow skin, vo-
miting of a dark  matter, that locks like coffee
grounds, and hiccup.   When the latter symptoms
prevail, it is called yellow fever.
  Causes.—A peculiar poisonous  vapour  from
ponds, marshes, and decaying  vegetable matter.
  Treatment.- -This must be conducted on our
general principles.   As the inflammatory  and bili-
ous symptoms are the most prevalent at the  com-
meriement, bleed the patient freely, and repeat
the operation if the pulse seems to require it.  The
next step is to cleanse the stomach with an emetic,
which  having operated,  open  his  bowels  with
calomel.   The lancet  and  calomel  are  the two
sheet-anchors  in this  disease,  and irresolution
or timidity, in the  employment of them at the
beginning  of it, may  cost  the sufferer  his life.
From ten to twenty or thirty grains of  calomel,
combined  with a portion of jalap, may be given
in molasses, and  repeated  until copious evacu-
ations are produced.   The quantity  of this medi-
cine  (cafo.ael) that is required to dislodge the ac-
cumulation in  the  bowels,  in  some  cases of this
complaint,  is almost  incredible to those who  have
had  no experience of it.  If the pain in the  head
be very great, shave it and apply a blister. Should
the skin be very hot, and great thirst  and  restless-
ness  prevail, dash cold  water over the body, as di-
rected  in simple  inflammatory fever.  The diet
should consist of rice-water,  lemonade, kc. taking
care  to keep up a  discharge from the bowels  by
purgatives, during the whole of the disease.
  11, however, in  spite of all endeavours to the 
200
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 contrary, the complaint seems advancing, endea-
 vour to bring on a salivation, as quickly as possible.
 To effect this, one of the powders below, No. 1,
 may be taken every three hours.   In cases which
 bear a threatening aspect from the beginning, it is
 perhaps the safest plan, having previously bied and
 purged,  to salivate at once, and without waiting till
 the secondary and more dangerous symptoms show
 themselves.  The moment the mouth is affected,
 and the patient begins tc spit, omit the  medicine.
 As soon as symptoms of putrescency make their
 appearance, no mercury should be given internally;
 on the contrary, bark, wine, acids, he. are neces-
 sary to support  the  patient, who should be kept
 ■clean,  cool,  and comfortable, excluding  all ncise.
 The extreme irritability of the stomach, Avhich is
 frequently found in bilious fever, may be  overcome
 by the saline draught, in a state of effervescence,
 {to be  found in Dage 199), and in the latter stage of
 if, when the pulse flags,and the system  appears sink-
 ing, the quinine mixture, No. 2, has been found ex-
 tremely useful. B'isters and mustard poultices may
 also be applied in this case to the ankles, thighs and
 wrists. Rubbing the body freely with the  decoction
 of Spanish flies in turpentine, and the viternal use
 of the quinine, are invaluable remedies in all such
 cases, and should never be omitted.
  There are in fact two  distinct stages in this dis-
ease that require two different plans of treatment.
The first is bilious and inflammatory, and  should
be met by bleeding, vomiting, purging with calo-
mel, or a salivation, blisters to the head, and the
affusion of cold  water.
  The second is putrid and bilious, and must be
 treated by wine, brandy,  the quinine  mixture,
 sound porter, and the peculiar plairrecommended
 in putrid fever; always recollecting that  if we can
 bring on a salivation early in the disease, we have
 a fair chance of saving our patient.
  No.  I.  Salivating powders.—Calomel, 6 grains,
 antimonial powder,  3 grains.
  No. 2.  Qiunine mixture.—Sulphate of quinine,
 13 grains, poAvdered gum arabic,  1 drachm, loaf
 sugar half an ounce, water, 6 oz. essence of pepper-
 mint, 5 drops. Shake the bottle well each  time it is
 pouredout. The dose is a table-spoonful every hour.
         Typhus, or low nervous fever.
 , Symptoms.—Languor,  debility,   dejection  of
mind, alternate flushes of heat and chills, loathing
of food, confusion of ideas.  These are succeeded
by vertigo, pain in the head, difficulty of breath-
ing,  frequent weak,  and- sometimes intermitting
pulse, the tongue dry, and covered  with a brown
fur, the teeth and gums being encrusjjed with the
same, the forehead is covered  Avith sweat, while
the hands are diy and glow with heat, the patient
talks wildly.
   Causes.—Contagion,  grief, whatever tends to
weaken the system, a poor diet, living in elose,
filthy apartments, inordinate venereal indulgences.
Distinguish it from putrid fever by the attack com-
mg on more gradually, and by the greater mildness
of the symptoms, "by the want of those putrid marks
mentioned  in  the former, and  by the absence of
vomiting.                                  *»
  Treatment.—If the bowels be costive, give some
gentle laxative, as rhubarb, or six or eight grains
of calomel, with as many of jalap.   As soon as
this has operated, or even before, (if the weakness
of the patient seem to require it) exhibit wine as
freely as the stomach will bear, not only as a drink,
but mixed with his food, which should  be sago,
tapioca, panada, jellies, he.  If no wine  is to be
had, brandy, and porter (an important article, when
good) arc to be freely employed, always remem-
bering,  that if the  strength of the patient be not
 supported by these means, he will die of debility.
 Dashing cold water over the bodv is a remedy in
 this disease of great value.  If delirium or insen-
 sibility come on, shave the head and apply a blister
 to it, or cloths wrung out of iced vinegar and wa-
 ter.  If a purging ensue, it must be stopped} or it
 will prove fatal;  this may be done by the mixture,.'
 No. 1,  and by  opium," which  should  be  given,
 throughout the disease in liberal doses every night.
 The Cayenne mixture, No. 2, musk mixture, No.
 3,  and the camphor mixture, No. 4, will also be
 found useful.  Great reliance is now placed upon
 the sulphate of  quinine, which  may be taken  in
 doses of two or three grains, four times a day, dis-
 solved in a little gum arabic tea, or in pills.
  The order of  remedies then, in typhus fever, is
 to open the bowels with laxatives, to  use wine,
 brandy, porter and opium, freely, to dash c. !d wa-
 ter over the body, to give chicken  water, jellies,
 tapioca, sago, &c. to check purging, keep the room
 cool and clean, use the quinine mixture,  one or all
 of the different  mixtures of camphor,  musk or
 Cayenne pepper, to give opium every night, and if
 delirium come on, to apply blisters to the head.
 Bleeding is, at best, a doubtful remedy in typhus,
 and should never be allowed without being order-
 ed by a physician; nine times out of ten it is cer-
 tain death to the patient.         '
  No. 1.  Astringent mixture.—Chalk  mixture,
 4 ounces,  tincture of kino, 1 drachm,  lavender
 compound, 1 drachm, laudanum, 30 drops.  Dose,
 a table-spoonful  every tivo or three hours, as may
 be required.
  No. 2. Cayenne mixture.—Cayenne pepper, 6
 ounces, common salt, 4 drachms,  boiling water
 and vinegar, of each a pint and a half.  Let  them
 remain in a close vessel for an hour, then strain
through a fine  linen  cloth.  The dose is a table-
spoonful every one or two hours, according to cir-
cumstances.
  No. 3. Musk mixture.—Musk,  one  drachm,
gum arabic, powdered, one drachm, loaf sugar, the
same, water, six ounces.  Rub up  the musk and
sugar, adding the water very gradually.  The dose
is a table-spoonful  every two hours.
  No. 4. Camphor mixture.—Camphor, 30 grains,
blanched  almonds, 2  drachms,  loaf sugar,  l|
drachms, peppermint water, 6 ounces.  Moisten
the  camphor with a few drops  of spirits of wine,
and rub it to a powder.  The alm< ids and sugar
beat to a paste, add the camphor, and pour in the
 water gradually.   The dose is  a table-spoonful
every two or three hours.
                 Putrid fever.
   Symptonu.Severe chills, astonishing and sud-
 den loss of strength, countenance  livid,  and ex-
 pressive of horror and anxiety, the skin sometimes
 burning to the touch, at others the heat is mode-
 rate, the pulse is quick, small and  ha.-d, vomiting
 of bile, violent pain in the head,  redness of the
 eyes, low muttering delirium, the tongue is cover-
 ed «ith a dark brown or black looking crust, black-
 ish sores firm about th"- gums, the breath is very
 offensive, and, in the latter stage, the jirine also,
■ which  deposits  a dark  sediment, ttrextremely
i bad cases  blood  is poured ofit under the*akin,
j forming purple  spots, and  breaks out froir the
I nose and  different parts  ot the body, the jpitlse
 flutters and  sinks,  hiccadjeomes on,  aud  death
 closes the horrid scene.                 '  %
   Treatment.—As severe cases of this disease'*™
 apt to run their career with fatal rapidity, no time
 should be lost; bleeding is not admissible, the loss
 of a few ounces of blood being equivalent to a sen-
 tence of death.  A gentle emetic is tbejyt medi-
 cine to be given, which having operat&dMnould be 
MEDICINE.
201
 followed by a mild purgative; 6 or 8 grains of calo-
 mel, with as many of jalap, answer the purpose.
 This being done, resort immediately to the cold
 water, which should be dashed over the body, as
 already directed.  If the weakness of the  patient
 be such, that fears are entertained  of his sinking
 under the shock, sponge him with vinegar and wa-
 ter.  When employed early in the complaint this
 practice produces  the happiest results.   As soon
 as he is wiped dry, and has taken the wine if chill-
 ed, g'lAe  10 drops  of muriaiic acid,  with  8, or 9
 ■drops of laudanum, in a wine>glass of the cold in-
 fusion of bark, every four hours, gradually in-
 creasing the quantity of the acid to twenty drops
 or more  at a dose.   Wine and  water should be
 liberally given in this disease, as soon  as the putrid
 and typhus sympto'ms show themselves; like every
 thing else  that is used, it should be taken cola.
 The sulphate of quinine, in the same doses as men-
 tioned  in typhus, is a valuable remedy.  Yest  is
 much used  in putrid fever; the dose  is two table-
 spoonsful every two or three  hours,  or it  may be
 mixed in porter or beerpaud  taken in small quan-
 tities very frequently.
   As a wash for the mouth, nothing is better than
 an ounce of alum dissolved  in  a  pint  of water.
 Rest at night must be procured by opium, provided
 there is no delirium.  K" towards the end of the
 complaint,  there arise a gentle looseness, accom-
 panied with a moisture on the  skin, that seems
 likely to prove critical,  it  should not be meddled
 with, but otherwise, it must be stopped by as-
 tringents.  As this is a highly contagious disease,
 all unnecessary communication with the sick should
 be forbidden.  The chamber should  be kept cool,
 clean, and  frequently sprinkled with vinegar, and
' all nuisances be immediately removed.  Much ad-
 vantage will result from taking the patient, on the
 very commencement of the attack, into a new and
 healthy atmosphere.

                  Hectic fever.
    This is never a primary disease, but  is always
 found as a symptom of some other  one,  as  con-
 sumption.
    Symptoms.—Night sweats, bowels costive  at
 first, then loose, alternate chills and flushes, a cir-
 cumscribed spot on the cheeks,a peculiar delicacy
 of complexion and emaciation to so great a degree,
 that the patient sometimes looks like a living ske-
 leton.
    Treatment.—Remove the cause,  by curing the
 disease of which it is a symptom.
           Inflammation of the brain.
  Symptoms.—Intense pain in the head, the eyes
incapable of bearing the light, delirium, face flush-
ed, oppression at the breast, the pulse hard  and
very rapid, tongue, at first ofa fiery red, then yel-
low, brown or black.
  Causes.—Exposure to excessive heat of the sun,
blows on the head, intense  application  to study,
inteuperance.  Distinguish  it from inflammatory
fever by the pulse, which in  the one is full, strong
and regular, in the other, hard, quick and  corded,
and by the  raving delirium.   From typhus by the
two latter marks.
      t'atment.—Bleed the patient (as quickly  as
      le) until he nearly faints.  Upon  the reso-
      inuloyment  of the lancet in the onset, Ave
      price  our chief dependence.  The  bowels
      1 be freely opened  with Epsom or Glauber
salts, the head shaved, and jdfj£r> or cloths dip-
ped in iced vinegar and wg^HRnwunded'ice, be
applied to  it, and the rouHkeptvrfectly cool,
dark, and quiet.   Rice w^Hilemiffade,  or  cold
water, is to be the only dflj^Shouldlthe violence

                    "M ''".'■
of the disease not give way to these remedies, re-
peat.the  bleeding  blistering, &c. as often as may
be necessary.  The most vigorous measure? to re-
duce the  inflammation are required, or death will
be the consequence.
                  Head-ach.
  Causes.—Some particular disease of which it is
a symptom.   Indigestion,  a foul stomach, tight
cravats or shirt collars, exposure to the heat of the
sun, a rushing of blood into the head.
  Treatment.— This will  vary  according to  the
cause.  If it arises from  indigestion, that must be
attended to.  A  foul stomach is one of the most
usual causes of head-ach: such is the connexion be-
tween these parts, that the one is seldom out of
order, without notice being given of it by the other.
In this case, an emetic should always be adminis-
tered, which, at a day's interval, is to be followed
by a purgative.  If from the beating of the artery
in the temples and a sense of fulness in the head,
we  suspect it to originate from an undue deter-
mination to that part, bleed freely, and apply cloths
dipped in cold water to it.  Long continued and
obstinate head-ach  has  been frequently benefited
by issues on the  back of the neck.

            Inflammation of the eye.
  Symptoms.—Palm, heat and swelling of the parts,
which appear blood-shot, the tears hot and scald-
ing, fever, intolerance of light, sometimes  when
the lids are affected, the edges become ulcerated.
   Causes.—External  injuries, as  blows, particles
of sand, Sic. getting into them, exposure to cold, a
strong light, intemperance.
  Treatment.—If the complaint is caused by fo-
reign bodies, they must be removed with the point
ofa paint brush, or the end of a piece of wire co-
vered with lint, or washed  out by injecting warm
milk and water into the eye, with a small  syringe.
If particles of iron stick in it, they may be drawn
out by a magnet,  i rom Avhatever circumstance it
may originate, the inflammation is to be  subdued
by bleeding from the arm, and from the neighjour-
hood of the eye, by a dozen or more leeches. The
bowels should be freely opened  with  Epsom salts,
and a cold lead-water poultice, enclosed in a piece
of thin gauze, be laid over the  part.  The  room
should be perfectly dark, and the diet extremely
Ioav. Weak brandy and water, lead water, or rose
water, may be used as a lotion.  If the pain is very
severe, a small  quantity If equal parts of lauda-
num and water may be dropped  into the eye.  If
the eye lids are ulcerated,  touch them with the
white vitriol ointment. Bathing the eye frequent-
ly with clear cold water, is a refreshing ai.J useful
practice,

               Dimness of sight.
  Symptoms.—The patient  imagines he sees par-
ticles of dust, flies, and cobwebs, floating in the
air, and cannot distinguish clearly any object, either
near to him, or at a distance.  Though the pupil
sometimes does not contract, the eye is to all ap-
pearance unchanged.
   Causes.—Pressure on the optic nerves, within
the scull, by tumours, or otfcer causes, or an error
or defect in the formation of the nerves themselves,
drunkenness, blows on the head, apoplexy, exces-
sive venereal indulgences.
  Treata&nt.— Blisters, issues,  or a seton to the
backtif fflfce neck, snuff,  by exciting a discharge
from the nose, is of use.  Electric sparks passed
through the forehead, and drawn from the eyes, if
persevered inYor a considerable time,  may prove
effectual.  As many causes of this  disease are seat-
ed  in the intestines and stomach, a  light emetic 
202                           UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
may be first given, and then a succession of purga-
tives for seA-eral days or weeks.
               Nigltt blindness.
   Symptoms.—'The sight is perfectly clear and dis-
tinct during the day, but completely lost at night.
   Causes.—A diseased liver, exposure to a strong
light.
   Treatment.—This disease is not common in the
United States; it is sometimes, however, met with.
The first thing to be done,  is to shade the eyes I y
a green silk screen, and to avoid any strong light;
the next, is to bathe the eye very frequently with
cold water, or a wash, made by dissolving twelve
or fourteen grains of white vitriol in four  ounces
of rose or common water.   Blisters on the lem-
ples_, placed as close to  the eyes as possible, are
highly useful.
  There are many other  diseases incident to the
eyes, but none that, can be managed  by any but a
physician or surgeon.  When, therefore, any alte-
ration in the structure of  the eye is perceived, no
time should be lost  in having recourse to  one or
the other.
            Inflammation of the ear.
   Symptoms—Pain in the ear, Avhich at last either
gradually ceases or matter is discharged through
the opening.
   Causes.—The accumulation  of hard wax, in-
sects getting into it, injuries from blows, &c.
   Treatment.—A  little Aiarm olive oil, with an
equal part of laudanum, dropped into the ear, and
retained  there by a piece of wool or cotton, will
frequently procure almost instant relief.  If it be
caused by hard  wax, inject warm soap suds or salt
water to soften it,  and  then, with care,  endeavour
to extract it, when  the oil and laudanum may again
be employed.  In cases of great severity, a blister
may be applied behind the ear.. A temporary deaf-
ness frequently results from this complaint, and
sometimes, when  matter is formed,   the  bones
of the organ are destroyed, and hearing  is*lost for-
ever.
            Bleeding from the nose.
   Causes.—Fulness of blood, violent exercise, par-
ticular positions of the body, blows, &c.
   Treatment.—Keep the patient erect or sitting
with his head  thrown a little  backwards, take off
his cravat, unbutton  his shirt collar, and expose
him freely to the cold air;  apply ice or cold vine-
gar and water to his testicles, and the back of the
neck.  If  the  pulse be full, bleed  him from the
arm.   If these are not sufficient,  moisten a plug
of linen with brandy, roll it in powdered alum and
screAV it up the nostril.  A piece  of cat-gut may
also  be passed through the nostril into the throat,
drawn out at the mouth, and a bit of sponge be fas-
tened to it and drawn  back again, so as to make
the sponge block up the posterior nostril. In doing
this it is necessary to leave a  piece of the cat-gut
so as to be got hold of, in order to withdraw the
sponge.  It is  seldom,  however, that the  first re-
medies will not answer the purpose.
                   Polypus.
  The nose is  subject ti> two  species of this tu-
mour:—the  pear-shaped or pendulous polypus,
and a flattened irregular excrescence, which is ex-
tremely painful, and is of a cancerous nature.  As
soon a? any affection of this kind is suspected, ap-
ply to & surgeon.

               Cancer of the Up.
  Tfor  kind of cancer always  commences in a
 small crack, which, after a while, becomes exqui-
 sitely painful.   If closely examined, this crack is
 found to be seated in a small  hard tumour, which
 Boon ulcerates, and if not checked, extends the dis-
 order to the throat, thereby endangering life.
   Treatment.—The  knife is  the only remedy for
 this, as  well as eveiy other species of cancer, and
 no time should be lost  in resorting to a surgeon.

         Mercurial ulcers in tiie mouth.
  Large, dark looking ulcers in the mouth are a
 common effect of the abuse of mercury. Th^y may
 be known by the horrid smell of the breath, by the
 teeth being loosened from the gums, and by a  cop-
 perv taste in the mouth.
  'treatment.—Omit all mercurial preparations;
 wash the mouth  frequently wilh sage  tea or vine-
gar and  water, drink freely of sarsaparilla tea, and
keep the bowels open with sulphur.
        Ulcers and pimples on the tongue.
  Small pimples  are  occasionally  found on the
tongue, which at last form ulcrs.  Sometimes they
are occasioned by the rough and  projecting edge
of a broken or decayed  tooth: when this  is ihe
cause, the part must be  rounded by a tile or the
troth extracted,  when the sore will  heal without
further  trouble.   Whitish looking specks, which
seem inclined to spread,  are also  met with on the
inside of the cheeks and lips.  They are easily re-
moved by touching their surfaces wilh burnt alum.
              Cancer of the tongue.
  Cancer of the tongue'commences like that of tha
lip, being a crack or fissure in a small, hard, deep
seated tumour on the side of the tongue.
  Treatment.—No time should be lost in useless
attempts to cure it by medicines.  The only safely
for the patient is in the knife, and that at an early
period.
           Enlargement of the uvula.
  The uvula  is that litlle tongue-like appendage
that hangs down  from the middle of the fleshy
curtain which divides the n.outh from the throat.
It is very subject to inflammation, the consequence
of whicn is, that it becomes so long that its point
touches, and sometirifs even lies along the tongue,
which  creates considerable uneasiness, and is now
and  then  the cause of a  constant cough, which
finally  ends  in  consumption.   It is commonly
called the falling of the palate.
  Treatment.—Strong gargles of vinegar and wa-
ter, or a decoction of black oak bark, or a watery
solution of alum,  will frequently cure the  com-
plaint.   It happens very frequently, however, that
in consequence of repeated  attacks,  it  becomes
permanently  lengthened, and then the  only re-
source  is to cut off the end  of it   If you are near
a physician apply to him, if not, the operation  is
so simple  that any man of common dexterity can
perform it, particularly as little or no blood fol-
lows the incision.   All that is requisite, is to seat
the patient, sei^e the part with a hook,  or a slender
pair of pincers, draw it a little forward, and snip
off its point with a pair of scissors.
             Swelling of the tonsils.        mm
  The tonsils are two glands situated in the t^Kat,
one on each side, which are very apt to sweflEm
inflammation by colds.  They  sometimes beWBie
bo large as to threaten suffocation.
  Trcatment^tBite commencement, this is the
same  as diiuS   EK i iflammatory  sore  throat,
which see. wM    ^Liot succeed, apply to a sur-
geon to tak&jHH   ^K. 
MEDICINE,
20&
            Inflammatory sore throat.            \
  Symptoms.— Chills and flushes of heat succeed- ;
ing each other; fever; the inside of the mouth, the i
throat and tonsils much  inflamed; swalfoAving is
painful; hoarseness; heat and darting pains in the
throat.
  Causes.—Cold; silting in damp  clothes; wet
feet; excessive exertions of voice.
  Distinguish  it  from  putrid  sore throat by the
fever being inflammatory, he.
  Treatment.—An emetic, taken  at a very early
stage  of this disorder will frequently prevent  it j
from forming.  The next  step is to bleed the pa-
tient freely, and give him a large dose of Epsom
sails.   A mustard poultice, or blister to the throat,
is an invaluable application, and should  never be
neglected.   The  room  should  be kept cool and
quiet, and the diet consist of barley or rice water.
The throat  may  be gargled several times in the
day with vinegar  and water; inhaling the steam  of i
hot water, from  the spout of a tea pot, is of use.
If symptoms of putrescency appear, treat it as di-
rected in putrid sore throat.
               Putrid sore throat.
  Symptoms.—All the marks of typhus; on  the
second day a difficulty of swallowing;  respiration I
hurried;  breath hot;  skin  dry and  burning; a j
quick, weak  and irregular pulse; scarlet patches
break out about the  lips,  and the inside of  the
mouth and throat is of a fiery red colour.   About
ihe third day blotches of a dark, red colour make
their appearance about the  face and neck, which
soon extend over the  whole  body.  Upon examin-
ing the throat a number of specks, between an  ash
and a dark broAvn cofour are observed on the  pa-
late, uvula,  tonsils, he.; a  brown fur covers  the
tongue; the lips are covered with little vesicles or
bladders,  which burst and  give out a thin acrid
matter,  that  produces  ulceration  wherever it
touches.   In bad cases,  the  inside of the mouth
and throat become black, and are covered with foul
spreading ulcers, when all the symptoms that cha-
racterize putrid fever ensue.
  Distinguish it from scarlet fever, by the fever
being a typhus and not inflammatory, by the sore
throat, dark  tongue,  and putrid  symptoms;  and
from measles, by the absence  of cough, sneezing,
watering of the eyes, &c.
  Treatment.—Bleeding in this disease  is abso-
lutely forbidden. The same may be said of active
or strong purgatives.  The bowels, however, should
be kept open by mild laxatives or clysters.  If to-
wards the close of the complaint there is any ob-
struction, a  few grains  of calomel and  rhubarb
may be given.   Cold water  dashed over the body
is one ot the  most  powerful remedies we can  em-
ploy; it should never be omitted; and as soon as
the patient  is dried and in  bed,  half  a pint of
strong mulled wine should be given to him. This
practice, boldly followed, frequently puts an  end
to the disease.
  Emetics are used in the beginning with advan-
tage,  but the great  and evident indication is to
prevent and  counteract the disposition to putres-
cency, and to support the strength.   For this pur-
pose the cold infusion of bark, or bark in substance,
Avilh  ten  or  twelve  drops of muriatic acid,  and
cigdit or nine drops of laudanum, should be taken
fnttuenfly, and in large doses.  Cayenne pepper
i«V& valuable article;  it may be taken in pills, or in
the mixture before described, p. 200.   To cleanse
the throat, gargle frequently with vinegar  and  wa-
ter.  Any looseness of the bowels must be checked \
by powerful astringents.  The diet should" consist
of arrow  root, jelly, panada, tapioctfpwid gruel, |
and the drink of wine whey, wine and water,  &c. |
increasing the  quantity of the wine according to
the weakness and age of the patient. The greatest
cleanliness is to be  observed in the chamber.  As-
this  disease is  undoubtedly contagious, all unne-
cessary communication with the  sick room should
be prevented, and those who are  compelled to be
with then., will do well to take a spoonful  of the
Cayenne mixture from time to time, by way of
prevention.  It is asserted to be a safe-guard.

            Strictures in the throat.
  Symptoms.—The  first mark of an obstruction or
stricture in the throat,  is a  slight difficulty in
swallowing solids, whi h continues increasing for
months, or until the passage becomes so contracted
that  the smallest  particle of hod cannot pass, but
having remained an  instant at the striclured part,
is violently rejected.   If the obstacle is  not re-
moved, the patient starves.
  Treatment.—Meddle  not  with the  complaint
yourself, for you can do nothing to relieve it, but
apply wilh all speed to a surgeon,  and remember
that your life is at stake.
                CataiTh, or cold.
  Symptoms.—A dull p:dn in the head,  swelling
and redness of  the eyes, the effusion of a  thin
acrid mucus from the  nose, hoarseness, cough, fe-
ver, he.
  Treatment.—If the symptoms be violent, bleed
and give twenty drops of hartshorn in half a pint
of warm vinegar whev.  Hoarhound and boneset
tea, taken in lai-ge quantities, are veiy useful.  The
patient should be confined to his bed, and be freely
purged.  If there is great pain in the breast„apply
a blister to it.   I'o ease the cough  take  2 tea-
spoonsful of No. 1 every 15 minutes, or till relief
is obtained.
  The Influenza is nothing more than an aggra-
vated state of catarrh, and is  to be cured by the
same remedies.   No cough or cold is  too light to
merit attention.   Neglec'.ed  colds lay the founda-
tion of diseases that every year send thousands to
the grave.
  No. 1. Coughmixture. Paregoric, half an ounce,
syrup of squills, 1 oz., antimonial wine,2 drachms,
water, six ounces. Dose is 2 teaspuousful every fif-
teen minutes till the cough abates.
                   Asthma.
  Symptoms.—A tightness across the breast, fre-
quent short  breathing, attended with a wheezing,
increased by exertion and Avhen in bed.  It comes
on in fits or paroxysms.
  'J'reatment.—If the  cough be violent and fre-
quent, with great pain in the breast, and the patient
be young and robust, it will be necessary to bleed
him.   In old people it should be  resorted to with
caution.  The tincture of digitalis is  highly re-
commended in asthma. It should be taken in doses
ofa very few drops at first, and cautiously increas-
ed.  If the pulse sinks under it, or giddiness, Sec.
is produced, it must be laid aside.   In fact, it. is
hardly prudent to take this active and dangerous
article, ~x«ypt under a physician'scare. The Indian
tobacco may be safely used in place of it, in doses
ofa tea-spoonful of the tincture* every half hour,
till relief is obtained. The dried roots of the thorn
apple  and skunk cabbage are sometimes smoked
through a pipe for the same  purpose.   Asthma is
a disease that is  seldom completely cured  by art;
nature, however, occasionally effects it.

  * Take a sufficient quantity of the leaves, stem,
and pods of  the plant, put them into a  bottle  and
fill it up with brandy or spirits, and let it remain
for a few  jays. 
204  .
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
                   Pleurisy.
  Symptoms.—A sharp pain or stitch in the side,
increased upon breathing, inability of lying on the
affected side, pulse hard, qukk and corded, tongue
white.
  Treatment.—Take away at once from twelve to
fifteen ounces of'blood, place a large blister over
the side, and give a full dose of Epsom  salts. Re-
peat the bleeding as of:en as the pulse seems to
demand it, and if expectoration does not come on,
apply another blister close  to the first  one.   All
the remedies, for the  reduction of inflammation,
must be actively employed.   The patient should
be confined to  his bed, w. .b the head and shoul-
ders a litlle elevated, and a warm decoction of the
twigs and  leaves of the common  hemlock  taken
frequently, and  in  liberal quantities.  The diet
should always consist of rice or barley water.
               Spitting of blood.
   Symptoms.—Blood of a bright red colour, often
frothy, brought up by coughing.
   Causes.—Consumption and its causes, a fulness
of blood, r.'.pture of a blood vessel from any cause.
Distinguish it from vomiting of blood, by its bright
colour, and being brought up with coughing.
   Treatment.—Give  the patient at  once  a table-
spoonful of common  salt, and direct him  to swal-
low it. If the pulse is full, bleed him.  The sugar
of lead has much reputation in  this complaint: 2
or 3 grains of it, with from a half to a whole grain
of opium, may be takeu every 3  or 4 hours, and in
severe cases, where the  blood flows rapidly, 5 or
6 grains, with two of opium, may be taken at once.
The most perfect rest should be strictly enjoined,
and tne diet consist of cold mashed turnips or cold
rice water.

                 Consumption.
   Symptoms.—A  short, dry cough, languor and
gradual loss of strength, pulse  small, quick, and
soft, pain in the breast,  expectoration of  a  f.Dthy
matter, that at last becomes solid and  yellow, the
breathing grows more  anxious  and hurried,  the
emaciation and pain increase, hectic fever, night
sweats and a looseness of the bowels come on, and
the patient, unsuspicious of danger,  dies.
   Causes___Neglected colds, dissipation, he. Dis-
tinguish it by the long continued dry cough, pain in
the breast, and great  emaciation, by the substance
thrown up being pure pus; in common language,
matter.  It is known  by  its being opaque, mixing
with water, and heavier than it, so that if thrown
Into a vessel containing that fluid, it sinks  to the
bottom. When thrown upon hot coals it yields an
offensive odour.
   Treatment.—In a  confirmed  state of consump- •
tion, nothing that art has hitherto been able to do, I
can afford us any solid  hopes of a cure.   When i
once the disease is firmly seated in  the lungs,  all |
that is possible, is to smooth the passage  to the
grave, and perhaps for a while  to retard it.   If,'
however, the disease  is taken in  its very bud, much
may be done by a change of climate, a milk diet,
vigorous and daily exercise on horseback, and  by
carefully avoiding cold and all exciting*causes.  A
removal to a warm climate should be the  first step
taken, if practicable: if not, a voyage to sea, or a\
long journey on horseback.   A complete suit of
flannel, worn next the skin, is an indispensable ar-
ticle for  every one who is even inclined to this
most  fatal disorder.
            Palpitation of the Iteart.
  The symptoms of this complaint must be obvi-
ous from its name.  When  it arises from a dis-
eased state of the heart or its vessels, nothing can
be done to cure it.  The patient should be careful
to avoid a full habit of body, and abstain from vio-
lent exercise and sexual indulgences.   He should
live low, and keep as quiet and composed as pos-
sible. A fit of anger, or any imprudence, may cost
him his life.  There is a milder kind of this dis-
ease, resulting from debility, which must be reme-
died by restoring the  strength of the general sys-
tem.  It is also symptomatic of other diseases, and
must be treated accordingly.

              Dropsy of the chest.
  Symptoms.—Great difficulty of breathing, which
is increased by lying down, oppression and weight
at the breast, countenance pale or livid,  and ex-
tremely anxious, great thirst, pulse irregular and
intermitting, cough,  violent  palpitation  of the
heart, the patient can  lie on one side only, or can-
not lie down at all, so that  he is obliged  to  sleep
sitting, frightful dreams, a feeling of suffocation,
8cc.
  Treatment.—This is another of those  diseases
that mock the art of man.   To say it is incurable,
would be hazarding too much, but as yet, it has near-
ly always proved so.  All that can be done is to fol-
low the same plan that is laid down for the treat-
ment of dropsy in general, which consists of purg-
ing, emetics, and diuretics.   When the water ap-
pears to be confined to one cavity of the chest, and
the oppression cannot  be borne, some relief may
be obtained by a surgical operation.

         Inflammation of the stomach.
  Symptoms.—A.fixed burning pain in the stomach,
small,  very quick hard pulse, sudden  and great
weakness, the pain in the stomach increased on the
slightest pressure, vomiting,  hiccup.  To these
are sometimes added  an erysipelatous  inflamma-
tion, extending from  the  mouth to the stomach,
fainting, clammy sweats, and death.
  Causes.—Cold suddenly applied to the body or
stomach, drinking largely of cold water Avhile veiy
warm.  The striking in of eruptions, poisons, gout,
rheumatism. Distinguish it from inflammation of
the bowels  by the seat of the pain,  which is just
beloAv the breast bone, in what is called the pit of
the stomach, the burning heat and  pain there, by
the hiccup and vomiting.
  Treatment. -As you value the life of the patient
Ueed him quickly, largely, and frequently.  The
roly safety for him is found  in the fearless use of
the lancet.   The softness of  the pulse  is here no
rule to go by—for it, and the convulsions, are caus-
ed by the disease.  The rule is to bleed every few
hours till the inflammation is subdued. From twen-
ty to thirty  ounces may be taken in a full stream
from a robust man at the beginning, and ten more
in 6 or 8 hours, and so on.  As soon as  he is bled,
or Avhile the blood is flowing, put him into a warm
bath, and have a large blister prepared, Avhich, af-
ter he has remained some time in the bath, should
be  applied  directly over the stomach.  A  warm
laxative clyster is now to be thrown up, and Avhen
the stomach will retain it, give him small quanti-
ties of  arrow  root jelly or  gum arabic tea, from
time to lime, with a few drops of laudanum. The
most rigid diet must be observed, and the patient
kept very quiet
  When the inflammation is reduced, and the sto-
mach will bear it, a grain of solid opium  maibbe
given occasionally wuh advantage.  If  the dis^e
has been brought on by poison taken into the sto-
mach, apply the remedies directed in  such cases.
If mortification ensues, death is the inevitable con-
sequence.  It may always be expected to take place,
when the lancet has not been freely employed at
the beginning, and known to exist, when from the 
MEDICINE.                                    205
state of torture we have just described, there is a
sudden change to one of perfect ease.

             Cramp in the stomach.
   Symptoms.—\io\enl spasmodic pain in the sto-
mach, which is  so  severs, as nearly to  occasion
:fainting.
   Treatment.—Give 50 or 60 drops of laudanum,
in a tea-spoonful of ether, with a little hot wine.
Apply bladders or bottles filled with  warm water
to tne stomach and soles of the feet, or put the pa-
rent into the warm bath.  If the first dose of lau-
danum does not relieve the pain, repeat it.

                    Hiccups.
   Symptoms.—A spasmodic affection of the  sto-
mach and diaphragm, producing the peculiar noise,
which gives rise to the name.
   Treatment.—When  hiccups  occur at the close
of any disease, they maybe considered the harbin-
gers of death; they, however, frequently arise from !
acidity in the  stomach  and other causes.   A long
draught of cold water,  a sudden surprise or fright, j
puts an end to them.  A blister over the stomach may
be applied for (lie same purpose.  I have succeeded
in relieving a violent case of hiccups, that resisted
every other, remedy, by the oil of amber, in doses
of five drops every 10 minutes.  It, may be  taken
in a little mint water.
                  Heart-burn.
  This common and  distressing affection is most
generally connected with indigestion.  To rel;,*ve
tt  for  the  moment, magnesia, soda, or  Seltzer
water, and water acidulated with  sulphuric acid,
may be  employed.  To cure  the complaint  re-
quires the digestive powers to  be strengthened by
tonics, bitters, and the different  preparations of
iron, &c. as directed for indigestion.  The appli-
cation  of a blister over the stomach may be of use.
The whi'je oxyd of bismuth in 6 grain doses, three
 imes a-day, taken in  milk, has been found of ser-
vice.
                  Indigestion.
  Symptoms.—Want ot appetite; low spirits; pains
lrid fulness in the stomach; belching; a sour water
rising in the mouth; heartburn; the howels are ir-
regular and generally costive; Aveakness and ema-
ciation; pulse small and slow; pain in the head;
skin dry; great uneasiness after eating.
  Causes.—All those  which induce debility; ex-
cessive indulgence in the pleasures of the table, or
intemperance in any way; a sedentary life, or want
of exercise; a diseased liver.
  Treatment.—In every case of indigestion, the
first thing the patient should do, is to abstain from
whatever may  have tended to produce it.  The
diet should consist of animal food that is light,
nourishing, and easily digested.  Roasted  mutton
is perhaps  preferable to any other.  Country air
aud  constant exercise on horseback are invaluable
remedies in this disease, which, as it is generally
occasioned by a departure from natural  habi' s and
employments,  must  be  relieved by a return  to
them.   Flannel should be worn next the skin, and
care taken to avoid cold or exposure to wet.   A
wine glass of the cold infusion ot bark and quassia,
(made by placing one ounce of powdered bark and \
one of ground quassia in a close vessel, to which is I
added a quart of boiling water; to be kept simmer- |
ing near the tire until the whole is reduced to a ]
pint,) with ten or twelve drops of the elixir of vi-
triol, should be regularly taken, three times a day, ;
for  months.  The bowels  are to be kept open by i
some warm  laxative as  rhubarb, and  the  whole
frame braced ov the dailv  jse of the  cold b*)fcj
The new preparation of bark  called sulphate o.
quinine, promises to be  of much use in the com-
plaint of whieh we are speaking. It roust be taken
to the amount of four grains  a day, in divided
doses, either dissolved in water, or in pills. Weak
spirits and  water, or a single glass of sound old
Madeira, may be taken at dinner, but all malt
liquors should be avoided.  Much benefit has been
found to result  from a long continued use of the
wine of iron,  (made by taking iron filings  4 oz.
and pouring on it four pints of Madeira  wine;  let
it stand for a month, shaking it frequently,) a glass
of which roay  be taken  twice a day.  If the  com-
plaint arise from a diseased liver, recourse must
be had to ttie plan laid down for its cure.

                Vomiting of blood.
   Symptoms.—A flow of dam blood from the sto-
mach, preceded by a sense of weight and oppres-
sion in that organ.  The blood is generally mixed
with particles of food, he.
   Distinguish it from spitting of blood, by its dark
colour and being mixed with food.
   Treatment.—If the accompanying symptoms be
inflammatory, bleed and use some cooling purge;
if otherwise^ try thirty drops of the  muriated tinc-
ture of iron in a glass of water, every hour till the
bleeding ceases.  If the cause be a diseased liver
or tumour  in the neighbourhood, treat it accord-
ingly.
           Infla *nmation of the liver.
  Symptoms.—A dull pain  in the right side below
the rib, which is more sensible on pressure; an in-
ability to lie on the left side; pain in the right
shoulder; a  sallow  complexion.   Such are  the
symptoms of an acute attack of this disease. There
is another species of it called chronic, in  which its
approaches are so gradual that it is a difficult mat-
ter to determine its nature.  It commences with all
the symptoms of indigestion, and ends in jaundice
or dropsy.
   Causes.—Long continued  fever and  ague, in-
flammation; acrid bile; drunkenness, or a free use
of spirituous liquors is a very common cause; inju-
ries from blows, he.        ,  ,
  Distinguish it from  pleurisy by  the  pain not
being so severe;  and by its extending to the top ot
the shoulder; by not being able to rest on the left
side.
   Treatment.—Bleed the patient according to his
age, strength, and the violence of the pain, and if ne-
cessary, apply a  blister over the part,  which must
be kept open by dressing it with the savin ointment.
The bowels should be opened by Epsom  salts or
calomel and jalap. It this does not abate  the symp-
toms  in  a few days, give a calomel pill of one
grain every five hours, or rub a drachm of the
strongest mercurial ointment into the side until the
gums are found lo be a little sore, when the  fric
tions or pills must be discontinued until the mouth
is well, and then again resorted to as before.  Ii
an abscess points outwardly, apply bread and milk
poultices  to the tumour,  omit the mercury, use
wine, bark, and a generous diet.  As soon as mat-
ter is to be felt within it, open it at its lowest and
most projecting part with the point of a sharp  lan-
cet, and let out its  contents very slowly, taking
care not to close the wound till this is completely
effected. The nitric acid, in doses ol ten or tAvelve
drops, three times a day,  gradually increased, and
steadilypersevered in,  will sometimes produce a
cure.   The mercurial plan, however, is  to be  pre-
ferred.
                Jaundice.
Symptoms.—Languor; loathing of food; a bittei 
206
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
 taste in the mouth; vomiting; Ihe skin and eyes of
 a yellow colour; the stools clayey,  and  the urine
 giving a yellow tinge to rags dipped in it.  There
 is a dull nain in the  right side, under the last rib,
 which is increased by pressure.   When the pain is
 severe, there is fever; the pulse hard and full,&c.
   Causes.—An interruption to the regular passage
 of the bile, which is carried into the blood, bile
 being^formed in too  great quantities.  The  first is
 occasioned  by gall-stones, a diseased liver, &c.
 Intemperance is a very common cause, hence tip-
 plers are more subject to ft than others.
   TreatmetJ.—If the pulse be fall and hard, the
 pain great, and other inflammatory symptoms be
 present, blood is to be taken away as freely as the
 age and strength of the patient, and the violence of
 the  pain, seems to demand.  He should then be
 placed in a  warm Lath,  and allowed  to remain
 there some time; when removed to bed, a grain or
 tAvo of opium may be given every few hours until the
 pain is relieved. Bladders, partly filled with warm
 water,  or cloths wrung out of hot decoctions of
 herbs, may also be  applied to the seat of the paint
 if the stomach be so irritable as not  to retain any
 thing on it, tiy fomentations and the effervescing
 mixture, or a blister to the pari.   As soon as some
 degree of ease is obtained by these means, purga-
 tives must be employed,  and steadily persevered
 in; calomel and jalap or Epsom  salts, in the ordi-
 nary  doses, answer very well.   If, however, tnis
 cannot be done, and from the pain being acute at
 one particular spot, there  is reasjn to suppose that
 a gall-stone is lodged  there, the following remedy
 may  be tried, of which one-fifth or a little less may
 be taken eveiy morning, drinking freely of chicken
 broth, flaxseed tea,  or barley-water after il.
  Ether, 3 drachms,  spirits of turpentine, 2 drs.
Mix them.
  The diet ought to be vegetable, and should the
disease have arisen  from a neglected inflammation
of the liver, it must be  treated  with  mercury.
(See inflammation of  the liver.)  If putrid symp-
toms show themselves, meet them with the reme-
dies already directed for such cases.  Regular ex-
ercise  (on hrrseback, if  possible) should never
be neglected by persons subject to this disease.
                     Ague cake.
•     This is  the vulgar appellation for  an enlarged
   spleen, and expresses, with much brief meaning,
   the cause of the complaint, as it generally results
   from ill-treated or obstinate intermittents.  It  is,
   however, not productive of much uneasiness, and
   frequently disappears of itself.  The plan of treat-
   ment, if there is acute pain iu the part, is to bleed,
   purge,  and blister.   If it remains  enlarged after
   this, mereury- may be resorted to, as  directed  in
   chronic inflammation of the liver.
         Inflammation of the intestines.
  Symptoms.—Sharp  pain  in  the bowels, which
shoots round the navel, and which is increased by
pressure, sudden loss of strength, vomiting of dark
coloured, sometimes excrementitious matter, cos-
tiveness, small, quick and hard pulse, high colour-
ed urine.
  Distinguish it from  cholic, by the pain being in-
creased by pressure, whereas in cholic it is reliev-
ed by it.
  Treatment.—This is another of those formidable
diseases that require the most  actively reducing
measures  in  the onset.  From sixteen  to twenty
ounces of  blood ought to be taken away at  once,
and the patient placed in  a warm bath, after which
a large blister should be applied to the belly.
Emollient and  laxative  clysters  may be injected
from time to lime, and if the vomiting and irrita-
|  bility of the stomach permit it to be retained, give
  a large dose of castor oil.  If this be rejected, try
  the oil mixture, No. 1, or fifteen grains of calomel
  made into smaU pills  and taken at once.  This,
  however, (though one of great importance) is a
  secondary consideration   To subdue the inflam-
  mation by large and repeated bleedings, being the
  great object.   To effect this, if in five or six hours
  after  the  first bleeding, the pain, he. he  not re-
  lieved, take away ten  or twelve  ounces  more, and
  so on till that desirable object  is obtained.  The
  diet should consist of  small quantities of barley or
  rice water only.   If in the latter stages of the dis-
 ease,  when the inflammation has somewhat subsid-
 ed, an obstinate costiveness be  found to resist all
 the usual remedies, dashing cold water over  ihe
  belly  will sometimes succeed.
   Remember that  this complaint frequently runs
 its course in a  day or two, and  that, unless the lan-
 cet be fearlessly employed in  the very beginning,
 mortification and death  will ensue.   If a strangu-
 lated  rupture occasion the disease, the  same, aud
 if possible, still  stronger reasons exist for bleed-
 ing, previously to any attemps at reduction. When
 certain quantities are mentioned, it is always to be
 understood, that they are applicable to robust men.
 Common sense will dictate ihe necessity of dimin-
 ishing them, as the patient may fall more  or less
 short  of this description.
   No. 1.  Oil mixture.—The yolk of one egg, cas-
 tor oil, 2 ounces.   Mix them well, and add laven-
 der compound, 2 drachms,  sugar, 1 ounce, water,
 5 ounces.  Mix them  well.  The dose  is  a table-
 spoonful  every hour till it Operates,  or half the
quantity at once,  the  remainder in divided doses,
if no  passage  is obtained after a space of four
hours.

                Cholera Morbus.
   Symptoms.—A violent vomiting and purging ol
bile, preceded  by a pain in  the stomach and tow-
els, quick, weak and fluttering pulse, heat, thirst,
cold sweats,hiccups, and sometimes death in a few
hours.
   Treatment.—Wash  out the stomach and bowels
with copious draughts  of chamomile tea, barley or
chicken water, he. and inject cUstersof ihe same
articles.   Bladders or  bottles containing hot water,
should be applied  to the feet, and flannel  cloths,
wrung out of hot spirits, be hid over the stomach.
When from the quantity of bailey water, kc. thai
has been taken, it is supposed that the stomach is
sufficiently cleared, give two grains of solid opium
in a pill, and repeat it  every few hours as the case
may require.   If the weakness  be very great,  and
Ihe spasms so  alarming  as to cause a fear of the
immediate result, the  quantity of opium may be
increased to six, eight or ten grains at a dose for
an adult.   If the  pill will not remain  in the sto-
mach,  give eighty or ninety drops of laudanum, in
a table-spoonful of thin starch,  by clyster, and re-
peat it as often  as may  be necessaiy. Fifty or sixty
drops  of laudanum  in a siriall  quanlitv  of strong
mint tea, or the effervescing draught, will frequent-
ly succeed in allaying  the irritation.  If all tnese
means  fail, apply  a blister to the stomach.   When
the violence of the attack is over, give castor oil or
the oil mixture to carry off the  bile that may re-
main  in  the  bowels.  To complete the recovery,
and to  guard  against a second attack, a  complete
casing  of flannel is requisite, together with the us*
of vegetable bitters  aud  tonics.   Persons  subject
to this disease, should be  cautious in iheir diet,
and avoid exposure to moist cold  air.
                Dysentery.
Symptoms.—Fever, frequent small stools,. ao 
MEDICINE.                                     207
eompanied by  griping, heaving down pains, the
discharge consisting of pure  blood or blood and
matter, sometimes resembling the shreds or wash-
ings of raw flesh, a  constant desire to go to stooi,
vomiting.
  Distinguish it from a diarrhoea or lax, by the fe-
ver, griping pains, and the constant desire to e\a-
cuate the  bowels,  by the discharge  itself being
blood, or matter streaked  with blond,  he.
  Treatment.—As dysentery or bloody flux  is al-
most always in this country connected with  con-
siderable inflammation, it will be proper, ii> most
cases, to  bleed the patient at  the beginning of the
attack; caution, however,  is requisite in repeating
the operation, as typhus symptoms sometimes fol-
low it.   Whether it be thought prudent to  bleed
or not, repeated doses of castor oil, with  clys'ers
of the same, and  the application of blisters to the
belly, shjuld never be omitted.  If there  is  Much
vomiting at the commencement, the stomach and
bowels may be cleansed by  barley or rice  water
taken by the mouth  and in clysters.  As  soon as
this is effected,  give a grain or two of solid opium;
if it be rejected,  80 or 90  drops of laudanum in a
table-spoonful of  chicken broth or starch,  by clys-
ter.   The stomach may also be bathed with a mix-
ture of spirits of camphor and  laudanum, and the
irritation reduced by all the  means recommended
for the same  symptoms in cholera-morbus.   The
diet should consist of gum arabic dissolved  in milk,
arrow root jelly, barley water, &c. Clysters  of the
same articles,  with the addition  of  an ounce of
olive oil, and twenty drops of  laudanum, may be
likewise  injected several  times in the day.  To-
wards the latter end of the complaint,  opium and
astringents are proper and indeed necessary, taking
care to obviate  costiveness by occasional  doses of
castor oil.  I say the latter end of it,  for in the
commencement they would be  hurtful.  In this
stage of  it also, if a severe tenesmus, (or  constant
desire to go to stool) remains, anodyne clysters will
oe found  useful, or, what is more effectual,  a couple
of grains of opium placed just within  the funda-
ment. The various astringents, which are proper
for dysentery in its latter stages, are found below,
and may be used with port wine and water, as a
drink.
  Astringents.—Chalk mixture, 4 ounces, tincture
of kino,  1 drachm,  cinnamon water, 2 ounces, lau-
danum, £ drachm.   The  dose is  a table-spoonful
every two hours,  or oftener if necessary.—Or,
  Tincture of catechu,  2 ounces.  Take  Iwo tea-
spoonsful in a little  port wine every hour, or often-
er if required.—-Or,
  Extract of logwood, 20 grains, cinnamon water,
2 ounces,  tincture of  kino, 1 drachm, sugar, 2
drachms.  To  be taken at once.
               DiaiThota or lax.
  Symptoms.—Repeated and large discharges ofa
thin excrementitious matter by stool, attended with
griping and a ruinoling noise in the bowels.
  Treatment.—If the  disease arises from cold, a
few doses of the  chalk mixture,  No. 1, will fre-
quently put an end to it. It is, however, sometimes
necessary lo begin with an emetic of twenty grains
of ipecacuanha, and then open the bowels ly some
mild purgative, as castor oil or rhubarb.  Bathing
the feet in warm wa^er,  and copious draughts of
boneset tea, will  be found of great benefit, if it
tiriginate from suppressed perspiration.  For  the |
same purpose also,  from  6 to 10 grains of Dover's
powder may be taken at night, being carefu) not to
drink any thing for  some time after it.  j. vi.rms
are the cause,  treat  it as directed.   Wb:o '; is oc-
casioned  by mere weakness, aul in the letter stages
of i» (proceed from  what it may,) when every irri-
I fating matter is expelled,  opium, combined with
| astringents, is necessary as in the similar period ol
l dysentery.   The diet should consist, in the begin-
I ning, of rice, milk, sago, he. and subsequently ol
 roasted chicken.  Weak brandy and water, or nort
 wine and Avater, may accompany the chicken for a
 common drink.  Persons subject  to complaints
 of this kino, should defend their bowels from the
 action of cold, by a flannel shirt, the feet and othei
 parts of the body should also be kept warm.
   No.  1.  Chalk mixture.—Prepared chalk, 2 drs.
 loaf sugar, 1 drachm, rub them well together in I
 mortar, and add, gradually,  of mucilage of gum
 arabic, I  ounce, water, 6 ounces,  lavender com-
 pound, 2 drachms, laudanum, 30 drops. The dost
 is a table-spoonful every hour or oftener.   Shake
 the bottle well before pouring out the liquid, or the
 chalk will be at the bottom.
                    Colic.
  Symptoms.—Violent shooting pain that twisti
round the navel, the skin of the  belly drawn into
balls, obstinate costiveness, sometimes a vomiting
of excrement.  Distinguish it from inflammation of
the bowels, by the pain being relieved by pressure,
and from other diseases by the twisting round the
navel, the skin being drawn into balls, he.
  Treatment.—The first thing to be done in this
disease is to give a large dose of laudanum in a lit-
tle peppermint water, to  Open a vein, and apply a
mustard poultice below the navel.  Fifty, sixly ot
seventy drops of laudanum may be given at  once,
as the pain is more or less violent, and the dose be
repeated in a half hour, or less time,  if ease is not
procured.  The quantity of blood to be draAvn will
also depend on the same circumstance, taking into
consideration the st rength of the patient.. In severe
cases, 16 ounces may be about the mark.   Durr g
this  time, if the first doses of laudanum are found
ineffectual  in  reducing the pain,  and it is  very
great, eighty or ninety drops  may be given as a
clyster in a gill of gruel, or  warm  water.   Uue
great rule in the treatment of colic, Avncre the pain
is excessive, is,  to continue the use of opium in
such increased  doses as will  relieve il!—When
this is obtained,  castor oil by the mouth and  clys-
ter must be employed to open the bowels.
  In bilious colic when there is  a vomiting of
bile, the effervescing draught,  with thirty drops of
laudanum may be taken, to quiet the stomach, to
which, flannels wrung  out of warm spirits  may be
applied.   When the vomiting has abated, the oil
mixture or the pills below should be taken until a
free discharge is procured.   If, notwithstanding
our  endeavours, the  dLease proceeds lo such an
extent as to induce a vomiting of excrement, the to-
bacco clyster must be tried, or an attempt be  made
to fill the intestines wilh warm water. This is done
by forcibly injecting it in large  quantities, at the
same time the patient swallows as much as  he is
able. In this way, with a proper syringe, two gal-
lons have been sucessful'y introduced.  In all cases
of colic, when there is obstinate costiveness, an ex«
amination oi the fundament should be  made wilh
the  finger.  If there are  any  hard, dry pieces of
excrement there, they  may be removed either by
the finger or the handle of a spoon.
   Those  who are subject to  colic  should avoid
ftvruented liquors, and as much as  possible, ve-
getable food; be always well clothed, and take care
not to expose  themselves  to cold i.nd wet.  The
bowels should never be alloAved to remain costive.
   Purgative pills.—Of calomel and jalap, each 10
grains, opium, one grain and a half, tartar emetic,
half a grain, oil of aniseed, one drop.  Make ihe
whole into a mass. To be taken at  once, or divide
it in pills if the patient prefer  it. 
208
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
                Painter's colic.
  Symptoms.—-Pain and weight in the belly, belch-
ing, constant desire to go to stool, which is  inef-
fectual, quick contracted pulse, tlie belly becomes
painful to the touch, and is drawn into knots, con-
stant colic pains, the patient sits in a bent position,
•ifter a while palsy of part, or of the whole body.
  Treatment.—This disease is but too apt to end
in palsy, leaving the hands and  limbs  contracted
and useless.  In every case of colic, whose symp-
toms resemble the above, if the person has  been
exposed to lead in any of its shapes, all doubt on
the subject vanishes.
  If from the violence of tlie attack an inflamma-
tion  of the bowels be feared, bleed according to
the  age,  he. of the patient.   Give laudanum in
large doses, and rub the belly well with warm spi-
rits, and place him in a bath as hot as he can bear
it.  As soon as he is well dried, and has rested in
bed a few minutes, take him up, and <'ash a bucket
of cold water over his  belly and thighs,  or  mix
an ounce of  calcined magnesia in a  pint of milk,
and give a wine-glassful eveiy half hour, until ease
is obtained.   If this, with castor oil  by the mouth
and in clysters, will not produce  a  stool, apply a
large blister to the belly.  As soon as the symptoms
are somewhat abated, castor oil or laxative clysters
may oe resorted to for the  purpose of keeping the
body open; and to guard  against a  return, small
doses of opium should be taken from time to time.
Bitters, the  different  preparations of iron, bark,
he.  are necessary to restore  the  strength of the
system.   A  modern physician of great eminence,
recommends, (in all  cases, where the  disease is
clearly owing to lead) a salivation, by rubbing in,
on the wrists, night  and morning, one drachm of
strong mercurial ointment.
                    Worms.
  Symptoms.—Intolerable  itching  at  the nose,
sometimes  at the fundament, disagreeable  breath,
grinding of the teeth and  starting  during sleep,
hardness of the belly, gradual emaciation, colic,
and sometimes convulsions.
  Treatment.—This will vaiy according to the
kind of worm that is to be destroyed.  They are
of three kinds:
             The white thread worm
  Reseir 'es a small piece of white  thread, and is
usually found near the fundament, at the lower end
of the guts, where it produces a contraction of the
parts, and a most intolerable itching.  Clysters of
lime water wjll frequently bring whole nests  of
them away, and procure mstant relief.  The tinc-
ture of  aloes, below, however, is by far the best
remedy  known, for not  only  this,  but the round
worm.
  Tincture of aloes.—Socotorine aloes, 1 ounce,
liquorice, 2 ounces, coriander seeds,  half an ounce,
gin, 1 pint.  Digest in a  bottle for a week, shak-
ing tlie bottle frequently, then strain.  The dose
for  a child is a tea-spoot.2','l every morning, for an
adult  two table-spoonsful, with half the quantity
of a strong decoction of the Carolina pink root.
                The round worm
  Occupies the small intestines and sometimes the
Stomach.  It is of various lengths, from 3 to 8 or
more  inches.  If the tincture of aloes  fail to re-
move  it, the pink root may be taken in decoction,
or in powder, in doses of 60 or 80 grains, to be fol-
lowed after three  or four days by  ten or fifteen
grains of calomel.  Cowhage, in molasses or honey,
with a dose of castor oil every third  day, has been
very highly extolled.  In cases where all other
means have failed, tobacco leaves,pcunded with vi-
negar and applied to the belly, have produced the
desired  effect.
                 Tlie tape worm
   Inhabits the whole of the internal canal, and fre
 quenly defies all  our efforts to get  him out of it.
 Large doses of spirits of turpentine, from one to
 two ounces, in barley .water, have been advantage-
 ously employed for this purpose. If the spirits ol
 turpentine be tried, large quantities of gruel  oi
 barley water should be used with it, in order to
 prevent its irritating the stomach and kidneys.
   By whatever means these troublesome guests arc
 got rid of, the patient should be careful to strengthen
 his system and bowels, by a course of bark, bitters,
 wine, &0. and to  use a great proportion of animal
 food in his diet.   Repeated purging Avith calomel
 is, perhaps, as effectual a remedv for worms as we
 have, particularly if succeeded by the pink root tea.

          Inflammation of the kidneys.
   Symptoms.—Deep seated pain in the small of the
 back, urine high-coloured  and small  in  quantity,
 sometimes bloody, sickness at the stomach, vo-
 miting.
   Treatment.—This will depend upon the cause.
 If it proceed from gravel,  the plan to be  pursued
 will be detailed under that head.  If it arise from
 any other, bleed the patient freely, repeat it in ten
 or tAvelve hours, if necessary, and put  him into a
 warm bath.  Twenty grains or more of the  uva-
 uisi, with half a grain of opium three times a  day,
 accompanied by small quantities of warm barley
 or rice water,  is one of the most valuable remedies
 we are in possession of.  The dirt, during the at-
 tack, should consist of mucilaginous drinks only,
 which must be frequently taken, notwithstanding
 they may be rejected by vomiting.

                    Gravel.
   Symptoms.—A  fixed pain in the loins, numbness
 of the thigh, constant vomiting, retraction of the
 testicle, urine  small in quantity, voided with pain,
 and sometimes bloody.  As the gravel passes from
 the kidney into the bladder, the pain is so acute as
 to occasion fainting, &c. he.
   Treatment.—Bleed the patient freely,  and put
 him kito a warm  bath,  where  he should remain
 some time.  Meanwhile an emollient and anodyne
 clyster should be  got ready, which must be given
 to him as soon as he leaves il.  Cloths wrung out of
 decoctions of  herbs or  warm  spirits and water,
 should be applied to the part, and small quantities
 of warm gum arabic tea or barley water  be taken
 frequently.  A grain of opium,  every two hours,
 will be found useful. Strong coffee, without sugar
or cream, sometimes acts like a charm in soothing
the pain: twenty drops of the spirits of turpentine,
taken on a lump of sugar every half hour, is said,
by high authority, to do the same.  If the irrita-
tion of the stomach is very great, the effervescing
draught,  with 30 or 40 drops of laudanum, may be
tried.  When  the  pain, &cc. is  someAvhat abated,
the bowels should be opened with castor oil.  The
uva-ursi, as before mentioned, is one of the most
valuable  remedies in  all diseases of the  kidneys
that we have.  Blisters in all such cases are never
to be applied.   Persons subject to this distressing
complaint, should  be  careful to avoid acids and
fermented liquors of all kinds, including  the red
wines, beer, pickles, &c.  For a common drink,
 soft water, or  the seltzer and soda  waters are  to
 be preferred.   When any  threatening symptoms
are perceived, recourse should  be had to the  uva-
 ursi, in small doses of ten  or twelve grain, with
 half a grain of opium three times a day, to ue  con-
 tinued for weeks.
  ,      Inflammation of the bladder.
Symptoms.—Pain and spelling of the bladder 
MEDICINE.
20fl
ithe pain increased by pressure, a frequent desire to
make  water, which  either comes away in  small
quantities or is totally suppressed.
   Treatment.—Bleed the patient freely, according
to his  age and strength, and put him  in the warm
bath,  inject mucilaginous and laxaiive clysters,
and  pursue the exact plan of treatment that is re-
commended for the cause from which it may pro-
ceed.  See suppression of urine, &c.
               Difficulty of urine.
  Symptoms.—A frequent desire to make water,
attended with pain, heat, and difficulty in doing so;
a fulness in the bladder.
  Treatment.—If it  arise from simple irritation
by blisters, he. plentiful draughts of warm liquids,
as gum arabic or barley water will be sufficient to
remove it.   If from any other cause, a bladder half
filled with warm water, or cloths Avrung out of a
warm decoction of herbs, should be kept constantly
applied over the parts, and  mild clysters of thin
starch be frequently injected.
             Suppression of urine.
  Symptoms.—Pain and  swelling of the bladder,
violent and fruitless attempts to make water, at-
tended with excruciating pain, he.
  Treatment.—As a total suppression of urine is
always attended with considerable  danger, there
should be no delay in endeavouring to  remove it.
The first step is to bleed the patient, who should
immediately after  be  placed  in the  warm bath.
While he is there, a laxative and anodyne  clyster
must be got ready, which is to be given  as soon as
he leaves it, and frequently repeated. In the mean
time the warm fomentations, and  bladder of hot
water must be kept applied, and the mixture below
be taken every three or four hours. If there be any
difficulty in procuring it, twenty drops of laudanum
in a little warm  barley or rice water, or a decoc-
tion of the dandelion, will answer in stead.  Warm
sweet oil or milk and water may be injected up the
urethra,  and 6  or 8 grains of camphor  in a little
milk be taken every hour.
  If no relief is obtained  by these means, apply
snow or ice to the bladder, or make the  patient
stand on a cold brick, or stone pavement, and dash
cold wa.er over his thighs,  and if this fail,  try the
tobacco clyster,  which sometimes succeeds  after
every thing else  has been resorted to in  vain.   If a
catheter can be procured, try to  pass it into the
bladder while in the bath.   If the patient himself
cannot do it, let a handy friend attempt it; if foiled
in one position, try another, success is  of  the ut-
most importance, for there  is nothing but an  ope-
ration, in the event of its not being obtained, that
can save life.
  Iu every case of suppression of urine, the order
of remedies then are, blood-letting, the warm bath,
laxatives and  anodyne.clysters, fomentations, or
bladders half filled with warm water over the lower
belly, camphor and milk every hour, or every three
hours, passing the catheter,  dashing cold water
over the thighs and legs, or applying snow or ice
to the bladder, and lastly, the tobacco clyster.
  Mixture.—Mucilage  of  gum arabic,  1A ounce,
olive oil, 2 drachms.  Rub them well togetne*, and
add ether, 1 urachro, laudanum, 30 drops.
             Incontinency  of urine.
  Symptoms.—An involuntary dribbling or flow of
urine.
  Treatment.—If it arises from a relaxation  or
weakness of the parts, use the cold bath daily, ap-
ply blisters  between the fundament and  the bag.
and have recourse to bark and tlu different tonics.
      2  U
as iron, &c. recommended in indigestion. Twenty
or thirty  grains of the uva  ursi,  twice or three
times a day, with  half a pint of lime water after
each dose,  may also be tried.  If the disease is oc-
casioned by a  palsy of the parts,  the tincture of
Spanish flies may be of service.  If a stone in the
bladder is the cause, apply to a surgeon to  cut it
out.  In the mean time, some kind of vessel should
be attached to  the yard, to receive the urine, in or-
der to prevent it from excoriating the parts.

              Stone iii the bladder.
  Symptoms.—A frequent  desire  to make water,
which  comes  away in small  quantities  at a time,
and is often suddenly interrupted, the last drops oi
it occasioning pain in the head of the yard, riding
over a rough road, or any irregular motion or jolt-
ing,  causes excruciating pain and bloody urine, ac-
companied with a constant  desire  to go  to  stool,
itching of the fundament, a numbness iu the thighs,
he.,  retraction or drawing up c tne testicle.
  Treatment.—Cutting  out the stone  is the only
remedy.
    Diabetes, or an imm. derate flow of urine.
  Symptoms.—Frequent discharges of large quan-
tities of urin3, which is sometimes of a sweet taste,
skin dry, bowels costive, appetite voracious, Aveak-
ness, and gradual emaciation of the whole body.
  Treatment.—The principal remedy fo.* the  cure
of this disease, consists in confining the patient to
a diet composed  exclusively of animal food. Blis-
ters may,  also, be applied over the kidneys,  and
kept open with the savin ointment.  The prescrip-
tion below has proved eminently successful.   The
carbonate  of ammonia, in doses of  11 or 12 grains
three times  a day, is strongly recommended, upon
high authority.  In addi'ton to these, opium in  li-
beral doses,  exercise on horseback, the flesh-brush,
and flannel next  the skin, are not to be neglected.
The bowels should be ke;,t open ty rhubarb.
  Prescription.—Peruvian bark, uva ursi, of each
20 grains, opium $ jrain.   Make a powder, to  be
taken three  times a day with lime water.
               Dropsy of the belly.
   Symptoms.—A swelling  of die belly, from wa-
 ter  contained  in  it, preceded by a diminution of
 urine, dry skin, and oppression at the breast.
   Treatment.— One of the  most valuable remedies
 for dropsy is found in  the elaterium, one-fourth of
 a grain of which is a dose.   As it is a most active
 article, it is proper to begin with one-sixteenth of
| a prain daily, which may be cautiously increased to
 a fourth, or till it is found to exert its full powers by
 bringing away large watery  stools. From an ounce
 to an ounce  and a half of cream of tartar, dissolv-
 ed in water, and taken  daily, has frequently suc-
 ceeded in removing the complaint.  As objections
! are sometimes made to the quantity of this latter
 article, ^ an oz. of it,  with  1 oi 2grs. of gamboge,
| every oilier  day, may be substituted for it.   Six
 grains  of calomel, with one or two of gamboge,
I taken twice  or three times a week, have cured the
I disease. Bathing the feet before going to bed, and
 taking immediately after 20 grains of Dover's pow-
 der, by producing copious sweating, has produced
 the same effect.
   Dropsy is, notwithstanding, a difficult disease to
 cure.  It must be attempted, however, by the use
 of sich articles as  ws  have  mentioned,  beginning
 with the first, and if it fail,  proceeding to tlie next
 and so on   If the  swelling increases to such an
[ extent as to be absolutely insupportable, send for a
 surgeon to draw off the water.  At  the decline of
I the disease,  the  strength must be   supported and 
tECEIPT BOOK.
210                             UNIVERSAL

restored by hark, wine, and the tonic plan recom-
mended for indigestion.
                   Tympany.
  Symptoms.—The symptoms  of tympany, or a
collection of air either in the intestines themselves
or in the cavity of the belly, are more or less gra-
dual in their approach.  When the  disease lies
within the intestines, it commences with wind in
the stomach and bowels, which  keeps up a con-
stant  rumbling, belching, he.,  colic,  costiveness,
diminution of urine, want of appetite, &c.   Wb' a
it is in the cavity ot the belly, and outside the in-
testines,  the swelling  is much  greater, and very
elastic, when it  is  struck,  giving a hollow sound
like a drum; there is no belching, &c.
  Treatment.—If the complaint is within the in-
testines, keep the nozzle of a clyster-pipe up the
fundament, lo permit the wind to pass through it,
in order to diminish the pressure on the bowels.
Warm mint tea, ginger, horse-radish, ether, Cay-
enne pepper, spices and essential  oils, with laxa-
tive medicines and clysters, should be freely used,
with a moderately light broad bandage round the
belly. If these means do not answer the end, warm
and active purges must bt resorted to, such as the
compound tincture of senna or jalap.  If  no relief
is obtained, and the costiveness continues obstinate,
apply pounded ice to the belly.   Ilubbing it with
turpentine  may, also, prove useful.  It is very apt
to terminate in death.
              Gonorrhaa,  or clap.
  Symptoms.—A tingling sensation at  the end of
the vard, which  swells,  looks  red and inflamed,
followed by a discharge of matter that stains the
linen, first of  a whi.ish, then of a yellow or green
colour, a scalding pain in  making  water, involun-
tary and  painful erections.
  Treatment.—There are two kinds of this affec-
tion, the mild an/I the virulent.   The first is of so
trivial  a  nature, that plentiful draughts of any i
soothing liquid, as  barley  water  or flaxseed tea,
with a low diet, are sufficient to remove  it.   The
second produces effects more or less violent on dif-
ferent persons, and occasionally resists  for months
every remedy  that can be thought of.   If there be
much pain and inflammation in  the penis, apply a
bread aud milk poultice to  it, take a dose of salts, j
and lose  some blood.  This is the  more necessary j
if in consequence of the swelling of the foreskin it I
cannot be drawn back,  or being  back, cannot be i
drawn forward.  In  the mean time,  take pretty
large doses of the balsam  copaivse, daily.  A very '
low diet  should be adhered to, and the  pat:ent re- j
main perfectly quiet.
  A painful incurvation of the yard, called a chor- i
dee, may be relieved by dipping it  into  cold water, i
or surrounding it wilh cloths soaked in laudanum. |
To prevent it, take 50 or 60 drops  of the latter ar- I
title on going to bed.
  If in consequence  of violent  exercise, or strong !
injections, the testicles swell, confine  the patient
on  his back, bleed and purge him.  Pounded ice
or snow, or cloths dipped in cold vinegar or water,
should also be applied to the part3, and a very low
diet strictly observed.  If, from the same cause,
the glands in the groin are  enlarged, treat them in
like manner.

                     Gieet.
  Symptoms,—The weeping of a thin glairy fluid,  i
like the white of an egg, from the penis, caused by
a long continued clap.
   7 reutment.—A gleet '•* exceedingly  difficult to
get rid of, and frequently dei.es every .effort that is
made for that purpose. It must be attempted, how-
ever, by the daily use of the cold bath, and  30
drops of the muriated tincture of iron, taken three
times a day, for months, in a glass of the cold in-
fusion  of bark.  The best advice to be given in
this case is to  apply at once to sm intelligent sur-
geon.

            Involuntary emissions.
  Symptoms.—An involuntary emission of semen
during  sleep,  inducing great  emaciation and de-
bility.
  'J'reatment.—Abstain from all sexual indulgence
and lascivious  ideas or books, sleep on a hard bed,
use the cold bath daily, with a generorsaud nour-
ishing  diet.  Chalybeate water  and all the different
preparations of iron, with the cold infusion of bark
and  elixir  of  vitriol,  as directed for indigestion,
should be freely employed.

                  Strictures.
  Symptoms.—A difficulty in passing water, which,
instead of flowing in a full stream, either dribbles
away, twists like a corkscrew, or splits and forks
in two or three  directions.  They are occasioned
by strong injections, long continued or ill treated
clap.   The  cause, hoAvever,  is not always to  be
satisfactorily ascertained.
  'Treatment.—Procure several bougies of different
sizes.   Take the largest one,  dip  it in sweet oil,
and  pass it into the urethra till it meets wilh the
stricture, then make a mark on the bougie,  so that
when it is withdrawn, you can tell hoAv far down
the passage the  obstruction exists, and having as-
certained this,  take the  smallest  one, well oiled,
and endeavour to pass  it an inch or two beyond  the
stricture.   If  this can  be accomplished, let it re-
main so a few minutes.  This must be  repeated
eveiy day, letting the instrument remain someAvhat
longer each time it is  passed, and after a few days,
using one a little larger,  and so on  progressively,
u.itil the largest one  can be   introduced.  If this
fails, apply to  a surgeon,  who will  destroy  it with
caustic.
                 Syplulis, or pox.
   Symptoms.—Chancres and  buboes  are  among
 the first symptoms of this dreadful malady,  which,
 if not checked,  goes on  to  cause an ulcerated
 throat, nodes, a destruction of the bones and cartil-
 ages of the nose, and the palate.  The voice is
 lost, the hair falls off, foul  spreading ulcers show
 themselves all over the body, the stench of which
 is insupportable,  and before he dies, the miserable
 victim to  it becomes a loathsome  mass of corrup-
 tion.
   A chancre at  first resembles a pimple,  with a
 little  pit  or depression containing matter, which
 soon becomes an ulcer, wilh an irregular thickened
 edge, covered Avith a tough, ash-coloured  matter,
 the basis of which is hard and  surrounded by in-
 flammation.  It is generally found on the foreskin
 or head of the yard.
   A bubo is  an enlargement of a gland in the
 groin, heginn'ng  in a small hard lump, not bigger
 than abean,and increasing to the size ofa hen'segg.
   A node is a hard tumour formed on a bone.
   Treatment.—Apply at once  to an  intelligent
 physician.  If this be impossiule, confine the pa-
 tient to an extraordinary  low diet, and keep the
 parts clean.  A strong decoction ol guaiaeum and
 sarsaparUla may  be used daily, and all stimulating
■ substances must be avoided.   Every one has some
 infallible  receipt to cure this disorder; but in nine
 cases out  of ten the remedy proves worse than the
 disease.   A°,  for the chancres,  touch  thein  with
 lunar  caustiev and apply  a little  piece of rag  to
 them, smeared with red precipitate oiotmeuU  It 
MEDICINE.
211
'they are situated under the foreskin, Avhich is held i'
over the head of the yard by a permanent phymosts,
it (theforeskin) must be slit up.  If there is a bubo,
apply thirty leeches, and then cover it with several
blisters, Ohe after another.   If this does not pre-
vent its increasing, and the formation of matter is
inevitable, apply  poultices  to it, and as soon as a
fluctuation can be felt, let out its contents by seve-
ial small  punctures through the skin with a sharp
iancet.  To assist in the evacuation, press a soft
sponge gently on the tumour.
               Cancer of the yard.
  Symptoms.—A small tumour, like a wart, upon
the head of the yard  or  foreskin, followed by in-
flammation and ulceration, which discharges a thin
disagreeable fluid; after a time, a cancerous fungus
is produced, attended by a most intolerable burn-
ing and darting pain.
  Treatment.—Apply at once to a surgeon,  who
will cut it out—death is the only alternative.

                 Venereal warts.
  Crops  of these animal  mushrooms sometimes
spring up round the  head  of the yard, or on the
foreskin.  If flat, they may be destroyed by caus-
tic, if  mounted on a stem or foot-stalk, by tying a
piece of thread tightly round it.
               Mercurial disease.
  This is a complaint whose symptoms nearly re-
semble the secondary ones  of pox, consisting of
blotches on the skin, pains  at night, ulcers in the
mouth, &c. &c.   OAving to the liberal use of calo-
mel, it is now a  very common disease, which is
frequently  confounded, (even  by medical  men)
with genuine syphilis.
  Treatment.—Abandon every mercurial prepara-
tion, use the decoction of guaiacum and sarsaparilla,
the warm  bath, and a  mild nourishing diet.   If
possible, remove to a healthy situation in the coun-
try.  It is also necessary to take an occasioned pur-
gative of the flowers of  sulphur or of rhubarb.
               Dropsy of the bag.
  Symptoms.—A collection of water, which is first
perceived at the bottom of the bag, increasing in
size as it advances upwards, and forming a t,mour
of the shape of a pear.  If examined as directed
for dropsy of the belly, the wavy motion  may be
felt, and  if a candle be placed behind it, it becomes
partly transparent.
  'J'reatment.—The only certain cure is an opera-
tion,  for  which,  as  there is  no pressing danger,
apply to  a surgeon.  There are  three speciet of
this dropsy, in one of which the Avater is contained
within the lining of the bag;  another, within the
coAering of the spermatic cord,  and the  third, in
the cellular membrane of the  hag.  The first we
have  mentioned; the second occurs most frequently
in children, it sometimes, however,  is  found in
adults, and very much resembles a rupture.  The
treatment is Ihe same as in the first.   The third
may be distinguished by a doughy feel and irregu-
lar shape.  It is to be cured by small punctures
with the point of a lancet, to let out the water, and
by suspending the testicle.

            Enlarged spermo.tic vein.
  Symptoms.—A hard knotty and irregular  swel-
ling of the ve>n, which  sometimes increases to a
!arge size.  When lying down, the swelling  di-
minishes, which distinguishes it from a dropsy of
the parts.
  Treatment.—Suspend the testicles, or  keep the
patient on his hack;  apply lotions of lead water tn
tlie parts; the cold bath.
              Cancer of ihe testicle.
  Symptoms.—-The testicle  is enlarged,  hardened,
craggy and unequal  in  its  surface,  painful on be-
ing handled, with irregular pains shooting up  the
groin, into the back,  without any previous inflam-
mation, disease, or external violence.
  Treatment—Apply   immediately  to a surgeon.
Castration,  and that  at  an  early state of the  dis-
ease, is the  only remedy that can  save life.  Be
careful, however,  to distinguish it from  simple
swelling of the testicle by inflammation, blows, &c.
Which see.
                  Impotency.
  This is of three kinds.  The first arises from an
original defect in the  organs of generation.   The
second,  from local debility of the parts,  brought
on by excessive  venery, onanism,  or some preced-
ing disease, while the third  originates from  fear,
excess of passion, or want of confidence at the mo-
ment of coition.
  The  first is incurable.  The second must be treat-
ed by the general principles  and remedies point-
ed out  for restoring  the strength of the system,
consisting of the cold bath,  preparations  of  iron,
bark, elixir of vitriol,  generous diet, exercise, and
by steadily avoiding  the causes which may have
produced it.  The remed'^s for the third must be
sought for in calming  excessive agitation, and ac-
quiring, by habits of intimacy, that confidence they
are sure to produce.
                      Gout.
   Symptoms.—Pain  in the small joints, generally
 in the ball of the great toe, the parts swollen and
 red, the attack coming on in the night.  Such are
 the striking symptoms of this disease,and general-
 ly the first that  are  noticed.  It is occasionally,
 however, preceded by all those attendant on indi-
 gestion.  In the  advanced stages chalky lumps are
 formed in the joints.
   Treatment.—If the patient be young, vigorous,
 having the  disease for the first  time, bleed and
 purge him,  confine him to a low diet, and treat it
 exactly as an inflammation arising from any other
 cause.  To procure sweating, Dover's powder may
 be taken on going to bed.   As soon as the inflam-
 mation, by these means, is reduced,  use the cold
 bath, and take  strong exercise on foot, daily,—
 avoid high seasoned food, feather beds, wine, acids
 and fermented liquors, for the remainder of your
 life!  Gout is the child of indolence and  intem-
 perance, and to avoid it, the above means must be
 employed, and steadily persevered in.
   If, however, the patient is old or-infirm, and
 subject to regular fits of it,  he must not be handled
 ~o roughly.   The most perfect rest should be ob-
 served, and  the  parts  lightly covered Avith fleecy-
 hosiery, and flannel  cloths wetted with the lotion
 below, made milk-warm.   The bowels should be
 opened with some warm laxative.  In a regular fit
 oi the gout,  this  is all that can be done.   The de ■
 gree of warmth that is applied to the part, must be
 regulated by the feelings  of the patient, avIio, if
 Wv.ak, may use a nourishing diet, if strong, a more
 abstemious  one.
   If from any cause, the disease leaves the extre-
 mities and  flies  to the stomach, apply mustard
 poultices and blisters to the soles of the feet and
 ankles, give large doses of ether and laudanum,
 hot wine,  brandy, &s; and endeavour by all such
I means (including the  hot  bath) to send it back
| again.
   If the head be the  part  it is transferred to, and
I apoplexy is  produced by it, take away 15 or  20
j ounces of blood immediately, and give active pur-
I gatives, as 10 or  15 grains of calomel, followed  by 
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 senna tea or Epsom salts.   If, in a few hours, the
 patient is not relieved, the head continuing confus-
 ed and painful, and the pulse full and throbbing,
 bleed him again to the amount of 10 or 12 ounces,
 and apply cold vinegar and water constantly to the
 part.
   Gout lotion.—-Alcohol, 3 ounces, camphor mix-
 ture, 9 ounces, render the whole milk-warm by
 adding a sufficient quantity of boiling water.

           Inflammatory rheumatism.
   Symptoms.—Pain, swelling and inflammation in
 some "ne (or  several) of the larger joints.  The
 pain  shifting  from one part to another, all  the
 symptoms of  fever, pulse full and hard, tongue
 white, bowels costive, and urine high-coloured.
   Treatment.—Bleed the patient freely, or until
 the pulse is sensibly affected by it, and purge  him
 with salts and senna.  The Dover's powder should
 be taken to procure sweating, and a very low diet
 be strictly observed.  If the pain continue severe,
 and the blood already drawn shows a yellow or
 buffy  coat, bleed again and again.   The inflamma-
 tion must be reduced, and we are not to lay aside
 the lancet till that is done.  In severe  cases I have
 known it necessary to bleed twice a day, for four
 or five days  in succession.  Active purging with
 salts and senna must not be neglected.   When the
disease is overcome, if in consequence of the bleed-
ing, he. the  patient is left very tow and  weak,
wrap him up in blankets, give him warm, nourish-
ing food, wine, &c. &c.
              Chronic rheumatism.
  Symptoms.—A chronic rheumatism  is nothing
more than one of long standing.   It is unaccom-
panied by fever, and  makes  its rttacks on every
change of weather, on getting wet, he. he.   It is
frequently caused  by  inflammatory  rheumatism,
and sometimes seems to exist as a primary affec-
tion.
  Treatment.—I have found no one plan of treat-
ment in this species of the disease, so effectual as
the following: purge  with senna and salts, every
other day, rub the parts well wilh the volatile  lini-
ment, and use the Cayenne pepper, and mustard
at dinner, in large quantities, and on going to bed
30 drops of laudanum, with a tea-spoonful of the
tincture of guaiacum.   It is to be recollected, that
this is applicable only to chronic cases; if there is
fever, he. it will do much damage.  Should there
be any cause to suspect that a venereal taint is con-
nected with it, have recourse to the  decoction of
guaiacum and sarsaparilla.   A large blister  fre-
quently relieves the whole of the symptoms in the
course ofa night.  Thebest safeguard against the
complaint is the use of flannel next the skin,  win-
ter and summer.
               Hip-joint disease.
  Symptoms.—Excruciating pain in the hip-joint
and knee, the leg becomes first longer, then short-
er than its fellow. When lying down the foot rolls
outwards, the buttocks appearing flatter than usual,
lameness, after a while abscesses in various parts
of the thigh, hectic fever, he.
  Treatment- Apply blisters to the part, and if
there be much inflammation, bleed, make a caus-
tic issue in the little hollow at  the top and out-
outside of the thigh, and use all the remedies di-
rected for scrofula.   Long continued purging with
jalap and cream of tartar (every  other day) should
never be neglected.  The  diet should  be vegeta-
ble, and the limb kept at  rest.  When  matter is
formed, bark, wine,  and a  generous diet must be
employed.   It mostly proves incurable.
            Dropsy oj the knee joint.
  Symptoms.— I he joint swells,  the  skin remain-
ing of a natural colour.   By placing the hand on
one side of  it, and striking it gently on  the other,
the wavy or  fluctuating motion is perceptible, stea-
dy pressure  on one side will raise the other above
its natural level.
  Treatment.—Keep  a  perpetual  blister on the
joint, or make a caustic issue below  it, on tne in-
side of the leg,  cold water from the spout of a tea-
kettle is a useful application.   Camphorated mer-
curial ointment to the  knee,  and  mercury taken
internally, have sometimes been  of service.

                White  swelling.
  Symptoms.—Deeply seated  pains  in  the knee,
unattended at first by swelling, which at  last comes
on with increase of pain.  After a while the mint
enlarges, matter is sometimes discharged, hectic
fever follows, and cuts off the patient.
  Treatment.—If from scrofula, use the  general
remedies directed for that disease,  and apply a
blister to the part, which must be kept open by the
savin ointment, for months:  if from  blows, ap[ ly
the blister as before, bleed and  purge freely, and
act as directed in cases of similar accidents.  If in
spite of these precautions, the disease continues lo
advance, amputation  is the only resource,
        Pieces of cartilage in the joints.
  Portions of cartilage  are sometimes formed in
the joints, where they act  like any other foreign
b"dv of a similar texture.  While in the hollows
of t'he part, they give no uneasiness, but as  they
frequently slip in between  the ends of the  bones,
causing  excruciating pain, it is  sometimes  neces-
sary to cut them cut.  For this purpose apply to  a
surgeon.  As all  openings into the cavities of the
joints are attended with  much danger, unless the
pain be  insupportable, it is better to endure the
inconvenience than to run the risk of the operation.
            Scrofula, or king's evil.
  Symptoms.—Hard and indolent swellings of the
glands of the neck, that when ripe, instead of mat-
te", discharge  a whitish  curd.   It mostly  occurs
in persons ofa fair complexion, blue eyes, and de-
licate make.  In bad  cases, the joints  swell with
great pain,  the limbs waste  away, the  ligaments
and bones an  destroyed, when uvtic  fever soon
relieves the patient from his misery.
  Treatment.—Sea-water is  generally considered
the great remedy in scrofula.  It  is  to be used
daily as a bath, and a small portion of it taken in-
ternally.  Made milk -warm, it forms one of  tiie
most  excellent local applications that we have.
When the swellings break, a very strong decoclion
of hemlock may be  advantageously used  for the
same purpose.   The diet should be mild and nou-
rishing. Scrofula is seldom, if ever, cured.  After
a fair trial, therefore, of the waters of the ocean,
recourse should be  had  to a.iy new remedy that
may seem to promise relief.  Fatal as this disease
generally  proves, it is due to  humanity to state,
that  among  the numerous remedies recommended
for  it, the panacea of Mr Swaim  has  proved the
most successful.   Be its composition what  it may,
it has succeeded more frequently than any othei
plan of treatment.
                 inflamed glands.
    Every gland in the body is subject to inflamma-
  tion.  Whenever  one of them is perceived to be
  in this state, which may be knoAvn by the swelling
II and pain, measures shoild be taken  to reduce it,
i for  fear of its proceeding to Avhat is called scir- 
MEDICINE.
213
-bus, and finally to cancer  Leeches, blisters, and
all the remedies directed for such purposes, should
Le  actively employed,  among  which,  purging,
bleeding, and a low diet, must not be neglected.

                   Scirrhus.
  Symptoms.—A hard tumour, unequal on its sur-
face, and  not very sensible, giving but  little or no
oain on being handled.
  'Treatment.—Do  not  meddle with the tumour,
but apply to a surgeon as soon as possible.

                    Cancer.
   Symptoms.—A   tumour,  differing  from the
preceding one,  by being  surrounded with en-
larged veins.  It is, also, more  painful,  the skin I
Deing sometimes discoloured  and puckered.   The j
whole tumour is particularly heavy,  and  at last |
breaks  into  a  malignant ulcer or sore, whose
edges are raised, ragged,  uneven,  and curl over ]
like the  leaves of a flower;  Avhite  streaks or
bands cross it from the centre  to the circumference.
Acute and darling pains accompany both  this and
the preceding stage of the disease.
  Treatment.— Tiiere is but  one. remedy that can
be depended on for the cure of this painful and im'e-
terale complaint, and even  that should be resorted
to early, in order to ensure success. All the diseased
parts must be cut out.  Arsenic,  corrosive  subli-
mate, phosphate of iron,  and a thousand other
articles, have been recommended, both externally
and internally, but without any effectual advantage.
To  relieve the pain, opium may  be  taken in large
doses.   A very  low  diet, (such as barely sufficient
to support life) of milk  and vegetables, will pro-
duce the same effect.  The  sore should be defend-
ed from  the air, by some  mild ointment.   Pow-
dered chalk, scraped carrots, fresh hemlock leaves,
and powdered charcoal,  may be used for the same
purpose.
                     Goitre.
   Symptoms.—A  tumour  in the fore part of the
 throat, seated in  a gland close to the projection
 called " Adam's apple."
   Treatment.—Goitre is incurable.  When taken
 at the very beginning of the complaint, however,
 and in young persons, it is said to  have been dis-
 persed by a course of mercury, joined to frictions
 of the part, Avith strong mercurial  ointment.   As
 it seldom causes any inconvenience, and is always
 unattended by pain, it is not a matter of much con-
 sequence.   The inhabitants of the Alps consider it
 a mark of beauty, and there are  some cantons
 where every man,  woman, and child,  is adorned
 with a tumour of this nature, of which they  would
 feel very sorry to  be deprived.  The only remedy
 that has ever seemed to be of use  is  burnt sponge.
 It cannot be  cut out, on account of the great num-
 ber of blood-vessels of which it is composed.

                    Fainting.
   Causes.—Sudden and violent  emotions of the
 mind; bleeding; diseases of the heart and its great
 vessels.
   Treatment.—Lay the person on his  back, take
 off his cravat, then open the doors  and windows,
 and sprinkle cold  water  in uis face.   Smelling
 salts may be  held to his nose.

                    Apoplexy.
   Symptoms.—Falling  without sense  or motion,
 profound sleep; face livid or flushed;  eyes wide I
 open or half closed, and immoveable;  breathing
 Uow, labouring, and  irregular.
   Causes.—A rushing  of blood  to  the head,  ex-
.ceasive .fat in persons with a short neck, gluttony,
violent exercise, intense heat, anger, hearty meat
suppers, blows on the head, intoxication, he. he.
  Treatment.—If  the pulse remains full, the face
flushed, he. takf away twenty ounces or moie of
blood on the spot,  remove the  cravat, unhut in
the shirt collar, and place the patient in bed, with
his head and  shoulders a little elevated.  The
windows and doors must be thrown open, and no
more persons than are neces«ary, be  allowed to
remain in the room.  The head is to be s.iaved and
cupped, a blister applied  to the  back ol the neck
and  the head, and  mustard  poultices to the feet.
An active purgative should always be administered
as soon as  the patient is bled,  and  its operation
assisted by  repeated clysters.  If the patient cannut
swallow pills, try liquids, if neither, have recourse
to a strong purgative clyster.   If by these means,
the breathing is not easier, and the pulse softer,
bleed again and again.
  If, however,  the  patient is old and infirm, and
the attack  has come on more  gradually, if tne
pulse is weak, and the face pale, bleed moderately,
and give immediately a warm purgative, apply the
blisters, he.  If it arises from swallowing vegeta-
ble poisons, give an active emetic, as 30 grains of
white vitriol, and act as directed in cases of simi-
lar  accidents.   In  this second kind of apoplexy,
stimulants,  as hartshorn to the nose, &c.  may be
used; in the first,  they are veiy injurious, and
should never be employed
               Stroke of the sun.
  This proceeds from exposure to the sun's rays,
and exhibits the same symptoms as apoplexy, com-
mencing with vert:go, loss of sight, ringing in the
ears, he. and must be treated by large and repeated
bleedings;, and in every other  respect as directed
for apoplexy,
                   Epilepsy.
  Symptoms.—A fit,  in which the patient falls to
ihe ground in a convulsion;  the eyes are distorted
and turned  up,  hands clenched, foaming at  the
mouth,  convulsions, the whole  ending in a deep
sleep.
   'J'reatment.—Keep the patient  from  hurting
himself, by  holding his hands, legs, and particu-
larly his head, which he is  apt  to dash violently
against  the  ground,  or surrounding objects.   A
piece of soft wood should  be placed between his
teeth, to prevent his tongue  from  being  bitten.
This is, in general, ah that can be done during the
fit.   If,  however, there are symptoms of great de-
termination  of blood to the head, bleeding  should
not be neglecttd.  While vitriol, the misleto, car-
bonate of iron, Sec, he. have bec.i  recommended
and tried for the cure of this complaint, but in vain.
  The oxide of zinc may, however, be tried. It is
taken in pills of a grain  each, one  three times a
day, gradually increasing this dose to five at a time.
To reap any  benefit from this medicine, it is neces-
sary to  persevere in it  for months.  If it fails,
steady and  long continued  purging should  be re-
sorted to.   Large doses of spirits  of turpentine
are said to have afforded relief.  The diet, in all
cases, should be  vegetable,  and if symptoms of
fulness  of blood be present, it will be proper to
bleed.   Persors  subject to these fi's,  should never
be left  alone, or ride on horseback, for obvious
reasons,
                    Palsy.         »
  Symptoms.—A partial or complete loss of the
powers' of motion, and the  sensibility of particular
parts of the body; the pulse soft and slow.
  Treatment,—In  a young and robust person, it
will fee proper to bleed freely, and  give an active 
214
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
   purgatives.  In old people, or where the powers of
   the body are much weakened, warm laxative medi-
   cines • with  stimulating applications,  as  the  flesh
   brush, blisters, muslard poultices, and rubbing the
   ipne with the volatile liniment, form the  best plan
   of treatment.  If it affect different parts  of the
   body at  once, horse-radish, mustard, and Cayenne
   pepper should be used liberally, as they are pre-
   pared for table.  If a swelling or tumour  be found
   on the buck bone, or any injury has been done to
   it,  which  may have caused  the disease,  caustic
   issues must be placed on each side of it. and  as
   near the injured  part as possible.  The diet should
   oe light and  nourishing.   The  warm bath must
   not be neglected.

                Tetanus, or cramp.
    There are several very long and very learned
  names affixed to this disease,  as it may happen to
  attack one part of the body or another. When it is
  confined  to the  muscles of  the neck and jaws,
  locked-jaw  is the common and expressive term tor
  it.   The  affection, however, is always the  same,
  requires similar treatment, and consists in an in-
  voluntary contraction and stiffening of a part of the
  muscles, the senses remaining perfect.

                   Locked-jaw.
   Symptoms.—A stiffness in the back of the neck,
  which renders it first painful,  and at last impossi-
  ble to turn the head round; difficulty in  swallow-
  ing; pain in the  breast shooting to  the back; the
 lower jaw becomes stiff, and gradually closes.
   Treatment,—If the disease  is supposed to arise
  from a wounded nerve, or from an injury done to
  tendinous parts, by a pointed  instrument, enlarge
  the wound with a  sharp lancet, or penknife,  and
  pour laudanum or turpentine  into it, as directed
 for  similar accidents.   Blood-letting to a great ex-
 tent, is often attended with the  most happy results,
 and-should never be omitted.   FrOm a robust man
 take 30 ounces.   This being:  dene,  give  2 or 3
; grains of opium at once, and  repeat it every two
 hours, increasing  the dose according  to the vio-
lence of the  symptoms and the  effects produced  by
 it, without regarding  the quantity  that has been
>taken.  Cases are  on record, where 60 grains (a
•drachm) of solid opium have  been taken at once,
and  Avith the happiest  effect.   This,  however, is a
large (lose, and should never  be ventured on,  but
.under the most desperate  and' alarming circum-
stances.  Active purging with  castor  oil arid senna
tea,  must not be omitted, anil if the power of swal-
 lowing be lost, laudanum, Sec. must be given in
 clysters.   Drawing a  tooth is generally  recom-
 mended by  physicians  in  those cases Avhere  the
  jaws are  firmly closed, for the purpose of trans-
  mitting medicines and food to  the stomach.  This
  has always appeared to me as every way calculated
  to increase the evil.  If no opening exists between
  the  teeth, access can always be obtained by clys-
  ters,  and in this waj nourishment and remedies
  may be injected.   It is always proper, however,
  when the disease is perceived  to be coming on, to
  place two small pieces of soft wood between the
  grinders of  the upper and lower jaw, one on each
  side, so that they may be kept  asunder.
   Madeira wine, in doses of a wine glassful every
  "hour,  continued for several days, and combined
  with the  internal  use of mercury and the  warm
  bath, has been found of great service.  Cold water
  dashed freely over the patient, eveiy two or three
  hours, may likewise be tried. Afterevery affusion,
  he should be well wiped, and put inlo a warm bed,
  when a large dose ot  laui'inum in warm  Madeira
  wine, should be given.  The  tobacco clyster  has
  sometimes succeeded Avhen every thing else  lus
 failed.  During the re'axation wnicn it occasions^
 opium, wine, Ike.  must be freely administered.
 Blistering the whole length of the spine, and caus-
 tic issues on its sides,  as nearly on a line with the
 parts affected as possible,  are strongly  recom.
 mended.
   Although a valuable addition  to  our means ot
 cure, the  tobacco clyster  is not to be employed
 lightly, or on common occasions.  It should always
 be reserA'ed to the last moment,  never using it until
 every thing else has  failed.   The prostration of
 the system, and other alarming symptoms, it some-
 times causes, renders this caution necessary.

   Painful affectici of tlie nerves of the face.
   This disease, also called  tic-doloureux, neural-
 gia,  &cc. is of very rare occurrence. As it is, how-
 ever, sometimes  met with, it is proper to notice it.
   Symptoms.—A very severe pain darting in par-
 ticular directions, not lasting more than a second,
 but  very rapidly repeated, and excited  by  the
 slightest touch;  during the intervals there is no
 pain whatever.   There is no inflammation or swel-
 ling  of the  cheek,  as  in tooth ache, nor does  the
 pain seem so deeply seated.
   Treatment.—Blisters,  leeches, mercurial oint-
 ment, opium, and Fowler's solution of arsenic,
 with  many other remedies of the same class, have
 been  all recommended and  used for the cure of
 this most painful  of all the affections to which  the
 human body is subject.  Where the pains are so
 excessive as not to be borne,  two  grains or two
 grains and a half of the extract of belladonna, may
 be taken every three hours.  When the pain is
 somewhat relieved, this quantity must be diminish-
ed.  For a cure, apply to a skilful surgeon, who
will divide  the nerves.
               Angina pectoris.
  Symptoms.—*An acute pain at the lower end of
the breast  bone,  shooting into the left arm; great
difficulty of breathing; anxiety;  palpitation of the
heart; a feeling of suffocation.  It usually comes on
while ascending a hill, or going up stairs.
  Treatment.—During Ihe fit, place the patient on
his back and bleed  him.   If fainting, ^lash  cold
water in  his  face.  Should this  not  rouse him
in a few minutes,  apply a blister to the chest.
Strips of linen, moistened with  the solution below,"'
applied  several times a day to the breast bone for
a monih, are said to have effected complete cures.
They act by producing a crop of pimples, on the
appearance of which the disease declines.
  Persons  subject to this complaint, should  avoid
all  fermentable  food,  and  excess in eating or
drinking, taking  care to live quietly, and  to keep
the bowels open.   Bleeding and purging, folloAved
by opium,  to  lessen the  spasm, with the Avarm
bath, and a perpetual blister or plaster of the tartar
emetic ointment to the chest, are perhaps the best
remedies that can be employed.
  Tartar emetic,  one drachm;  spirits of camphor
half an ounce;  boiling water, one pint.  Mix.

              Dance  of St Vitus.
  Symptoms.—Irregular and convulsive motions of
the limbs and head, generally of the arm and leg
of one side only.   It varies, however, in different
persons, and is frequently  counterfeited by  beg-
gars.
  Treatment.—The  daily use  of  the  cold bath,
with the Peruvian bark, has  often  succeeded in
curing the complaint in young subjects.  In addi-
tion to these, any of the preparations of iron com-
bined Avith large doses of musk, opium, camphor,
he.  may  he tried.  Active and long continued
purging sometimes produces the happiest results. 
MEDICINE.
%\b
                 Scarlet fevr.
   Symptoms.—Chills; heat; thirst; head ache; the
 skin is marked with large red or scarlet patches,
 which at last unite, disappearing  in  a kind of
 branny scurf;  sore throat.
   Distinguish  it from measles by the spots coming
 out on the second day of the fever.   In measles
 they seldom appear until  the fourth day.  By their
 colour, which is that of a boiled lobster, whereas in
 measles it is of a dark red.                       |
   Treatment.—An emetic (ipecacuanha) should be
 given on the first appearance of the disease, to be
 followed by a dose of salts, or eight grains of calo-
 mel, with as many of rhubarb.  11 the pulse is full,
 and  strong, the head aches, and  the  heat great,
 draw blood,  and dash cold water  over the body
 very freely and frequently.   'I here is no disease in
 which the advantages of cold  affusion are  more
 striking.  In order to reap the full benefit of it,!
 however, it must be freely employed, that is, as !
 often as  heat, &c. seem  to  require  it,  or eight or j
 ten time.* in the twenty-four hours. The saline mix- !
 ture, p. 199, is of great use.  If there is any soreness j
 of the throat, the gargles  recommended for that
 complaint,  should be used, and a mustard poultice j
 be applied to the parts.  If symptoms of putres- i
cency appear, have  recourse to the plan recom-
mend for putrid sore throat.  As scarlet feA'er is
undoubtedly  contagious,  the  usual  ri'ecautions
should of course be adopted.
   Writers on this subject generally consider scar-
let fever as consistiag of three kinds, viz. The sim-
ple feA'er, the fever with sore throat, and the feA'er
with putrid sore throat.  The treatment of the
first should be like that of any other inflammatory
fever; that of the second,  lias been detailed in
speaking of inflammatory sore throat; and the last'
is precisely that of putrid sore throat.
        Erysipelas, or St Anthony's flre.
   Symptoms.—Fever, delirium, vomiting, pulse
 strong or weak as the fever inclines to the inflam-
 matory or typhus  kind, on the fourth  day, some-
 times on the second or third, the skin in some one
 part becomes red and inflamed,  which is soon ex-
 tended to others, the  parts affected being swollen
 and ofa bright scarlet.  If the face is attacked, it
 spreads itself on the  scalp, and  ihe eyelids some-
 times swell so as to prevent the patient from see-
 ing; after a  longer or  shorter period,  the eruption
 ends in small watery  vesicles,  or in branny scales.
 At this  period,  the  fever sometimes abates, at
 others, drowsiness or delirium  comes  on, which
 increases it, and destroys the patient  by  the ele-
 venth day.
   Treatment.—This  disease is of two kinds.  One
 of which is  principally confined  to the skin, while
 the other affects the whole system.  If the accom-
 panying fever is inflammatory, bleeding  will be
 proper, otherwise not.   This operation is to be
 cautiously employed  in erysipelas, as it sometimes
 runs into typhus.   If, however, the patient is ro-
 bust, his head  aches, and  great marks of fulness
 and  inflammation are evident, which  is generally
 the case in this country, bleeding, purging  with
 salts, and cooling drinks  should  be employed, to
 which, also, may be added, Dover's powders, bone-
 set tea, &c. to produce sweating. The room should
 be kept cool.  If,  on  the  contrary, the fever is a
 typhus, or  unaccompanied  by general  inflamma-
 tion, and (as before observed) the patient  is  of a
 weak and irritable habit of body, bleeding should
nevt. be  resorted to. Opium,  Avine, bark, elixir
of vitriol, and decoctions of'he  snake rool, as re-
commended for typhus, are necessary  in tliis case,
to guard against mortification, which sometimes
 ensues.
  As local applications, bathing the parts with lau-
danum or lead water, or dusting  them with rye
meal or wheat flour, are the best. Should ihe dis-
ease evidently be confined lo the  skin, the applica-
tion of a olister will sometimes  put an end to it.
If abscesses form, large openings must be made to
let out the matter and,dead parts.  When the first
or inflammatory kind prevails, the diet should be
barley,  sago, panada, he.  with  lemonade, tama-
rind Avater, he. for drink.  And, on the contrary,
when the  second, or typhus form of it (especially
ii accompanied by putrid  symptoms,) shows itself
a more generous diet, with a moderate quantity of
wine, &c. must be employed.
  It may not be useless  again to observe, that in
the United States,  erysipelas, nine times out of
ten,  calls for  reducing  and cooling  measures.
Among the various  articles which are employed in
this, as well as all inflammatory  diseases, none
ranks higher than lemonade,  which should always
(if possible) be made from the fresh fruit.   When
taken cold, and in  liberal quantities, it is not only
delicious to the palate of the patient, but tends
powerfully to cure the complaint.
             Mercwial erysipelas.
  Symptoms.—Heat, redness and roughness, com-
mencing either  in  the groin, bag, inside  of the
thigh, or bend of the arm, which  slowly and gra-
dually extend over the whole body, which becomes
slightly swollen, is tender to the touch, and itches
dreadfully.  The roughness is occasioned'by small
vesicles or blisters containing a fluid, which at first
cannot be seen without a  glass, but if not disturb-
ed, acquire the size of a  pin's head.  When they
are broken, the  matter corrodes the skin  Avhere-
ever it touches, so that at last, the  patient  is raw
from head to foot.  It sometimes occasions the loss
of the hair in every  part of the body.
  Treatment.—Omit  all  mercurial preparations,
keep the bowels gently open with Epsom salts, use
the warm bath frequently, take opium  at  night,
and dust the parts with flour or starch.   If  symp-
toms of putrescency appear meet them with bark,
wine, he.
                   Measles.
   Symptoms.—Inflammatory fever, dry cough and
hoarseness, sneezing, watering of the eyes, which
itch, a running  from the nose, great drowsiness.
On the fourth  day, small red points break out, first
on the  face, and then  gradually over the body.
They are in clusters, and on passing the hand over
them, are found to be a little raised.   On the fifth
or sixth day the vivid red is changed  to a brown,
and the eruption goes off.
  Distinguish  it from small-pox and all other dis-
eases, by the dry cough and  hoarseness, by the ap-
pearances of the eyes, which are red, swollen, and
loaded with tears.
   Treatment.—The patient  must be confined to a
low diet, and kept in bed, with as much covering
(but no more)  as may be agreeab/e to his feelings.
The room should be cool, and if there is much
fever and pain in the head, bleeding is necessary.
Should there be pain aud oppression at the breast,
apply a  blister.  The bowels may be opened by
salts.  The mild form of measles ought to be treat-
ed like any other inflammatory complaint, taking
care, however, not to repel the eruption by cold.
If this happens, place the patient in a warm bath,
give him  warm wine, 8cc  internally, Jnd apply
mustard poultices and  blisters  to  the  feet  and
ankles.
  There is another and more  dangerous kind of
this disease, vyhich ra&y be kuown by the fever be-
ing a typhus, and by all the  symptoms showing a 
21t!
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
 u'rid tendency.  The moment this is perceived,
 ave recourse to bark, wine, muriatic acid, he. he.
as directed in putnd fever.

                 Chicken-pox.
  Sywtiloms.—Fever, inability to  sleep, pain in
different parts of the body, a crop of small pimples
or poir.ti on the back, which,  by the  second day,
are  changed into little blisters, which are ripe on
the  third, and disappear before the  fifth day, with-
out  forming true pus or matter, and leaving no
marks or pirs behind them.
  Distinguish it from small-pox, by the eruption
coming  out  on  the  back, by the mildness of the
fever, by the fluid contained  in the  vesicles or
blisters  not being true pus, and by  the whole fall-
ing  off in scales on the fifth day.
  'Treatment.—Confine the patient to his bed, keep
him cool and quiet, and give him a dose of salts.
This is  all that  is necessary.
                   Cow-pox.
  Symptoms.—A pimple at the spot where the
matter was  inserted, which gradually undergoes
certain regular changes, that characterize the com-
plaint.
  Changes of genuine cow-pox.—On the second
day, or sooner, from  the time of the operation, j
a small speck of inflammation is to  be  peroeiv-
ed,  which, on  the  fourth day, is a  pimple, sur-
rounded by a circle of inflammation.  On the fifth,
this pimple changes to a vesicle containing a thin
fluid.   On the sixth, this vesicle is more perfect,
its margin forming a regular circle; it is also a lit-
tle flattened on the top, the centre of which is of a
dark colour.   On the eighth or ninth day, slight
chills, flushes of heat, he. are sometimes felt, ac-
companied  by swelling  of the  pustule, and  pains
shooting up into the arm pit, the glands or kernels
of which occasionally swell.
  On the tenth or eleventh day, the pustule is sur-
rounded  by a circular, vivid, inflammatory blush
that is very beautiful.   This is regarded  as a de-
cisive proof of the presence of the genuine cow-
pox.  ()n the eleventh day, the centre of  the pus-
tule begins to grow of a dark colour, which grad-
ually increases to a brown or mahogany one by the
end of the  second week, when it begins  to  leave
the skin, from which it is finally separated.
  Treatment,—If the pain, inflammation and swel-
ling, are excessive, reduce them by cold  applica-
tions, a dose of salts, low diet, and rest
                  Small-pox.
  Symptoms.—Inflammatory  fever,  drowsiness,
pain in the pit of the stomach, increased by pres-
sure, pain in the back, vomiting, on the third day
the eruption  breaks out on  the  face, neck  and
breast, in little red points that look like flea-bites,
and which gradually appear over the whole body.
On the fifth day, little round vesicles, filled with a
transparent fluid, appear on the top of  each pim-
ple.   The eruptive lever now declines.  On the
ninth day the pustules are perfectly formed, being
round  and filled with a thick yellow matter, the
head and face also SAvelling  considerably.   On the
eleventh day,  the  matter in  the pustules is of a
dark yellow colour, the head grows less, while the
feet and hands begin to swell.  The secondary fe-
ver  now  makes  its  appearance.  The  pustules
break and dry up in  scabs and crusts, which at last
fall off, foaving pits, which sufficiently mark the
pause.
   Such are the symptoms of the  distinct or mild
small-pox, but it frequently assumes a more terri-
ole shape, in what is called the confluent.  In the
latter, all  the symptoms are more violent from the
beginning.  The fever is  a typhus, there is deli-
rium, preceded  by great anxiety, heat, thirst, vo-
miting, he. The eruption is irregular coming out
on the  second day in patches, the vei> cles of which
are flatted in, neither does the matter they contain
turn to a yellow, but to a brown colour.   Instead
of the  fever going off on  the  appearance of the
eruption, it is increased after the fifth day, and
continues throughout the  complaint.  The  face
SAvells  in  a frightful  manner, so as to close the
eyes; sometimes putrid symptoms prevail from the
commencement.
  Treatment.—Place the patient in a  cool airy
room,  and let him be but lightly covered with bed
clothes.  Purge him every other day wilh salts,
and give him thirty drops of laudanum every night.
The diet should consist of panada, arrow root, &c.
and  his drink consist of lemonade  or water.  If
from any cause  the  eruption strikes in, put him
into the warm bath, give a little waim wine whey,
or the Avine alone, and apply blisters to the feet.
Obstinate vomiting is lo be quieted  by  Ihe effer-
vescing draught, with the addition of thirty drops
of laudanum.
  In the confluent small-pox, the treatment  must
be varied as it inclines more or  less to the inflam-
matory or putrid type.  If it inclines to the first,
act as directed for the distinct kind, if to the last,
employ all those means directed in  putrid fever.
If the  eyes are much affected, it will be neceosary
to bathe them frequently with warm milk, and to
smear  the lids with some simple ointment.
                     Itch.
  Symptoms.—An eruption of small pimples be-
tween  the fingers,  on the wrists,  and over the
Avhole body, which form matter, and are attended
with an intolerable itching.
  Treatment.—There are several varieties of this
troublesome complaint, as the rank, watery, pocky,
scorbutic, &c.  A very bad kind of it is contracted
by dogs that have the mange.  The remedy is sul-
phur.  It should be used internally with cream of
tartar, so as to purge freely, and at the same time
be applied externally, in the form of an ointment.
Equal portions of white vitriol,  flour of sulphur,
and laurel berries, made into a thin liniment with
olive oil, is highly recommended as a local appli-
cation.  The following practice is said to be effec-
tual:  Take of flour of sulphur  two ounces, and
mix  it Avell wilh two drachms of nitre; throw the
mixture into a warming-pan containing live coals,
and  pass  the pan between the sheets  in the usual
manner.   The  patient,  stripped to his skin, now
gets  into bed (taking care not to let the fumes es-
cape) when the clothes should  be  tucked in all
round  him.  Repeat  the  process ten or  twelve
times.   The diet in all cases should be very low.
                   Herpes.
  Symptoms.—Broad  itchy spots of a reddish or
white colour, breaking  out in different places,
which at last run into each other, forming exten-
sive ulcers, after a time they become covered Avith
scales, which fall off, leaving the surface below
red; while the disease heals in one part, it breaks
out in another.
  Treatment.—The ointment of the oxide of zinc,
is a very common application.   Washing the parts
with a solution of corrosive sublimate in water, one
grain to the ounce,  is, however, to  be preferred.
The citrine ointment may also be tried.  If these
fail, apply a strong  solution  of blue  vitriol to the
ulcers, and  iakc a p~a'm  of calomel  morning and
evening.  The decoction of sarsaparilla and guaia»
cum may be used with them.  If the disease resists
th£ merbury, try Fqwfor*s solution  of arsenic,  i« 
MEDICINE.
217
doses of five drops three times a day, to be cau-
tiously increased as directed for  intermitting  fe-
vers.  The Avarm bath should never be  neglected
in cutaneous complaints.
                  Scald head.
  Symptoms.—Inflammation  of the skin  of the
neail, which ends in a scabby eruption that extends
over the whole scalp.
  Causes.—Want of cleanliness, putting  on the
hal, using the  comb, or sleeping in the  bed of a
person who has it.
  Treatment.—Shave the head close, w«sh it well
with warm  soap  and water,  and cover it thiculy
with fresh powdered charcoal.  One or two of  he
pills beloAv should be taken every night,  on going
to bed.  The boAvels must be kept open by magnesia
or Epsom salts.   If this fails, t.y the citrine or tar
ointment to the  parts, with a liberal  use of the
compound  decoction  of sarsaparilla.   The  diet
should be wholesome and nourishing, avoiding spi-
rituous liquors and salted meats.  The warm bath
should not be neglected.
  Pills for scald  head.—Calomel half a drachm,
tartar emetic 15 grains, opium half a drachm.  Rub
it into a smooth paste with simple syrup, and di-
vide it into 60  pills.
                  Ring worm.
  Symptoms.—An  eruption  running  in  curved
lines, generally in a circle, that itches when rubbed
or when the body is heated.
  Treatment.—Into  one ounce of  water, throw
more blue vitriol than it will dissolve, so as to form
what  is technically  called a  saturated  solution.
Touching the ulcerated parts with this liquid seve-
ral  times  through the day, will alone frequently
cure it.   If this fails, apply the citrine or tar oint-
ments.  In very obstinate cases,  recourse may be
had to the pills  for  scald head, or to the usual
doses of Fowler's solution.  If it affects the head,
shave it.  In this, as well as all other diseases of
the skin, the greatest cleanliness is necessaiy.
                 Nettle-rash.
  Symptoms.—An eruption similar to that caused
by the stinging of nettles, whence its name.  On
rubbing the skin which itches, the  eruption will
suddenly appear, remain  for a moment,  and then
vanish,  breaking out in  some other spot.  The
parts affected are swelled, at one  time presenting
the appearance of welts,  a from the stroke of a
whip-lash, and  at  another,  that of white solid
bumps.
  Treatment.—A few doses of Epsom salts, and a
little attention to the diet, which should be mild,
are generally sufficient to  remove it. If it proceed
from  eating poisonous fish, or any  unwholesome
food,  take an emetic, he. as directed in such cases.

                 Blotched face.
  Symptoms.— An  eruption  of hard, distinct tu-
bercles or pimples, generally appearing on the face,
but sometimes on the neck, breast and shoulders.
  Treatment.—There are a  great many varieties
of this affection, soi ie of which have been separate-
ly treated of by Willan and other writers on dis-
eases of the skin, to whom I would refer any one
who is  particularly interested therein.   Notwith-
standing all that has been  said on the subject, there
is no  disease more difficult to get rid of than this.
\\ here it arises from suppressed perspiration, high
seasoned food, or intemperance, it may indeed  be
relieved by the warm bath, oy sweating, purging,
and a low diet; but when  it exists in persons who
nave  always hd temperate lives, and in whom it
seems constitutional, medicine has but little effect
  *   2 C
on it.  In all cases, however, the  following plan
may be adopted, take a dos° of Epsom salts twice
or thrive a week, use the warm bath daily, live on
mush and milk exclusively, -Mid drink nothing hut
water.  The parts may be touched frequently with
the. lotion below. If, after a trial of several months,
this should not succeed, try Fowler's solution,or the
pills for scald head, with the decoction of guaiacum
and sarsaparilla. The various cosmetics and astrin-
gent applications recommended for these affections
are always prejudicial, for although they sometimes
repress  the  eruption, they occasion  more severe
and dangerous complaints.
  Lotion.—Take of corrosive sublimate 4 grains,
of spirits of wine half an ounce; when the salt is
dissolved, add of common gin and of water, each
three ounces.
                   >Scu vy.
  Synploms.—Bleeding of the gums, teeth loose,
spots of various colours on the skin, generally livid,
debility, countenance pale and bloated, pulse small,
quick, and intermitting.  In its advanced stage the
joinu swell, and blood  bursts out from different
parts of the  body.
  Treatment.—Remove the patient to a new and
healthy situation, where the air is dry and pure;
give him  plenty of fresh vegetables, such as spin-
nage, lettuce, beets, carrots, and scurvy-grass.   A
small proportion of fresh  animal food  should be
taken with them. This, with oranges, lemons and
sugar, or lemonade,  spruce beer, with wine and
water, are generally sufficient  to cure  the com-
plaint. The nitric vinegar is strongly recommend-
ed for the same purpose.  If there is much pain p
the bowels,  laudanum must be used to relieve it.
If the breathing is difficult,  or there is much pain
in the breast, apply a blister to it, for on no account
should blood be  drawn in scurvy.  A tea-spoonful
of charcoal,  well mixed with half a pint of vinegar,
forms an excellent gargle to clean the gums and
ulcers in  the mouth.  Those on the body  may be
washed with the same, or lemon juice, pure, or
mixed with  water.  The yest or charcoal poultice
may also be  applied to them with advantage.  To
restore the tone  of the  system, recourse must be
had  to the  Peruvian  bark, with  the  elixir of
vitriol, the  muriated tincture  of iron, exercise,
Sec. he.
  Nitric vinegar.—Dissolve three or four ounces
of nitre (saltpetre)  in one quart of vinegar.   The
dose  is from  half an ounce to ar; ounce.   If the
strength  of  it occasions any inconvenience, add ft
little water,  or diminish the quantity of the dose.
                  Of turnout s.
  rfy the word tumour is meant a swelling of any
part of the body.  They are  of  different kinds,
arise from various  causes, and are more or less
dangerous, according to the nature of their con-
tents, aud the spot they occupy.
                  Of ruptures.
  Ruptures are tumours  caused by the  protusion
of a part  of the  bowels through certain  natural
openings.  They are divided  into reducible, irre-
ducible, and strangulated.  They mostly occur in
men in the groin and bag.
   Causes.—Straining in  r.ny way,  as  at stool,
vomiting,  lifting heavy weights, violent exercise,
as jumping,  running, he., a natural weakness of
the parts.
              Reducible ruptures.
  Symptoms.—A  small swelling, free from  pain,
and generally soft, the colour of the skin over it
remaining unaltered.  While  standing  up, the
swelling increases, on lying  down,  it decreases, 
218
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 the patient befog able to return the parts himself,
 while in that position.  The swt.ling is also in-
 creased by coughing, sneezing, or straining as if at
 stool.   If  he  is fle'ulent,  a rumbling  sensation
 tnay  be felt in  it.
   Treatment.—The patient should place himself
 on his back, with his head  and shoulders  a little
 elevated, draw  up his knees to his belly,  and  (if
 in this position the parts do not return of them-
 selves)  endeavour to push or knead them up into
 the belly, through the opening at which they come
 out, and which, if the tumour be in the groin  or
 bag,  is an oval ring or slit in the groin, at the pre-
 cise spot where the SAvelling first appeared.  When
 this is effected, he should remain quiet until a truss
 can be procured, the spring of which must be pass-
 ed round his body, the pad be applied directly over
 the spot just mentioned, and held there with one
 hand, while the other  passes the strap into the
 buckle and draws  it sufficiently tight.   Having
 done this, he should get up and walk  about.  If
 Ihe swelling no longer  appears,  the truss  is pro-
 perly applied, if otherwise, take it off,  return the
 parts as before, and apply it again; when, if on
 rising, walking  about,  slightly coughing, &c. the
 parts are found to be well kept up, he may resume
 his ordinary business.  The trus3 should be worn
 night and day,  as long as he lives.
              Irreducible ruptures.
   Symptoms.—A rupture in which there is no pain,
 yet that cannot be returned  into the belly,  caused
 by an increased bulk of the  parts, or their  having
 formed adhesions, or grown fast to adjoining parts.
   Treatment.—A rupture  thus situated must be
 left to  itself.   The patient  should be extremely
 cautious in  his diet, and in avoiding  costiveness,
 by the  use of clysters, or  if necessary, laxative
 medicines.  He should also be very careful to pro-
 tect the  tumour from  blows, always  recollecting
 that it is in danger of strangulation.
             Strangulated ruptures.
   Symptoms.—The first mark of a rupture being
 strangulated, or of pressure being made on it,  is
 costiveness.  The tumour, which before was in-
 sensible, becomes painful, the pain being most se-
 vere at the spot  where the strangulation or stric-
ture exists, and extending from thence across the
belly, which becomes swollen and hard. The pain
resembles that which the patient would suppose to
 arise  if a cord was drawn tightly across it.  The
pain continues to increase,  and is augmented by
pressure; sneezing, coughing, nausea  and vomit-
ing, first of the contents of the stomach, and after-
wards of the intestines, ensue; great anxiety, rest-
lessness, and a quick hard pulse.  Hiccups, cold
clammy sweats, weakened respiration, and a pulse
 so feebfo as hardly to be perceived, announce the
approach or presence of mortification.
   Treatment.—Lose not a moment in sending for
the best mtuical aid that may be within reach.  In
 the mean time, having placed the patient as direct-
ed for reducible ruptures, apply both hands on the
tumour with gentle, but gradually increasing pres-
 sure,  or grasp the tumour gently but steadily with
one hand, while with the fingers of the  other you
endeavour to knead or push  up the parts nearest
the ring in the groin, applying the pessure in the
same  course the parts have taken in their descent.
If this fails, seize the tumour between the  finger
and thumb of the left hand, close to where  it en-
ters the belly, and cany thein downwards,  Avith a
moderate pressure, so as to dislodge any excrement
which may be there, while with the right you en-
deavour to push  in the gut.
  If you cannot  succeed in two or three attempts,
place  the patient in a warm bath and try it again.
If still foiled (you  have no  time to waste in un-
[ availing attempts)  cover the tumour with pounded
 ice, snow,  or  any  very cold application.  Should
 this fail,  bleed the patient until  he nearly faints,
 regardless of tl.e small  thready pulse; if fainting
 actually occurs,  seize that moment to return the
 parts, as before directed.
   Should the rupture still remain irreducible, there
 are but two resources left, the tobacco clyster, and
 an operation.  One half of the clyster should be
 injected; if it  occasions sickness  and a relaxation
 of the parts, endeavour to return them: if the first
 half does  not  produce these effects, throw up the
 remainder of it and when relaxation comes on, en-
 deavour,  as before,  to  push up the gut.  As re-
 gards  the operation, no one should ever attempt it
 but a  surgeon.   Large doses of  laudanum allay
 vomiting, and are otherwise beneficial: in all cases
 of this kind, they should never be omitted^
   Remarks.—Ruptures are liable to be co-found-
 ed with some other diseases, as dropsy of the bag,
 enlarged spermatic vein, &c.  The  modes of  dis-
 tinguishing them have already been pointed out,
 although it must be confessed that Avith respect to
 the latter,  considerable difficulty exists.  If the
 disease is a rupture,  by placing the  patient on his
 back,  returning the tumour,  and  hrjding the  fin-
 gers firmly OA'er the  opening, and  then desiring
 him to rise,  the swelling will not appear.   If, on
 the contrary, it is  an enlarged spermatic vein,  it
 will be found to be greater than ever.   The latter
 has also  a  peculiar  ropy  feel,  as if a bundle of
 cords  were in the bag.
                   Aneurism.
   Symptoms.—A small tumour Avifhout pain or
 redness, attended by a peculiar throbbing,  it dis-
I appears on pressure,  and returns the moment it is
 removed.   As the tumour increases in size, the
 throbbing or beating of the artery grows less per-
 ceptible.   It is generally found in the ham, thigh,
 neck, groin and  arm.   It is divided into true and
 false.  Distinguish it by the beating or throbbing,
 which  is  diminished  by pressing on the  artery
 above the  tumour, and by the latter disappearing
 on pressure, and returning  when it is removed.
   'J'reatment.—In the early suge, apply a soft and
 elastic cushion to the tumour, and bind it tightly
 over it by a bandage.  The diet should in all cases
 be extremely low, just sufficient to  preserve life,
 and no more.  If the patient is of a full  habit, he
 should be  bled and purged.  This  plan, steadily
 and vigorously pursue ' for a long time, has some-
 times effected complete cures.  IT ere is nothing,
 however, but an operation that can be depended on,
 wherefore, as  soon as any swelling of this  nature
 is perceived, no  time should  be lost in procuring
 surgical ass'stance.  If the tumour is left to itself,
 it will  finally burst, and death be the inevitable
 consequence.
                 Fleshy tumours.
   Symptoms.—Small  warty  projections,  which,
 as they increase  in size, drag down the  skin from
 the  neighbouring  parts, which  forms a kind of
 stem or  foot stalk, on which the tumour hangs.
 They are hard, full  of vessels,  and are  neither
 painful nor inflamed.
   Treatment.—When very small, they may be fre
 quently touched  with  caustic, which will  destroy
 them.  If large, the ligature or knife must be em-
 ployed, for which purpose have recourse to a sur-
 geon.
             Steatomatous tumours.
   Symptoms.—A small,  doughy  swelling, which
 gradually increases,  and  sometimes grows to an
 enormous size.   It is  soft  and free from pain, the
i colour of the skin  remaining unaltered. 
MEDICINE.
£T3
  lyeatment— These tumours, technically called
steatomatous, are merely inconvenient from their
bulk.  They can only be removed by the ligature
or knife, for which purpose apply to a surgeon.
               Encysted tumours.
  Symptoms.—A distinct,  hard,  circumscribed
swelling, gradually growing 'arger,  until a slight
inflammation comes on,  when it becomes a little
painful, soon after which a fluctuation is distinctly
to be perceived.  As i. progresses the vessels be-
come enlarged; it seldom exceeds the size of an

   rr-eatment.—Apply to a surgeon.

                   Ganglion.
  Symptoms.—A small, moveable, elast' *<  swell-
ing, with little or no pain, or alteration in the skin,
sitmted under or between tendons or sinews, and
generally near to a joint; it sometimes hinders the
motions of the part.
  Treatment.—Apply pressure, blisters, or fric-
tions of strong camphorated mercurial ointment
to the tumour.  If these  are of  no ayail, make a
small puncture in it with the point of a sharp lan-
cet, let out its contents, and  apply pressure to the
part, so as lo make the twa sides of the sack or
bag grow together.

                 -    Biles.
  Symptoms.—A nard, circumscribed,  inflamed,
and very painful tumour, of a conical shape, sel-
dom exceeding in size a pigeon's egg.
  Treatment.—If the  patient is of  a full  habit,
bleed and  purge him  with Epsom salts.  A soft
poultice of warm  bread and milk, or rye meal,
should always be applied to the bile,  and frequent-
ly changert.  If the pain is excessive, a tea-spoon-
ful of laudanum may be mixed with each one.  Ir.
a few days matter will be formed, when it may be
let out with a sharp lancet.
                  Carbuncle.
  A deeply seated, hard, immoveable and circum-
scribed tumour, Avhich apjoars generally on the
back, shoulders, he.  About the middle it is of a
dark red or purple colour, being much paler cr
mottled round its edges.  It is attended with an
intolerable itching and burning pain, and at last
becomes a kind ot sloughing ulcer.
  Treatment.—This will depend upon the state of
the constitution.  Most  generally there is  great
weakness, in which case the diet must be generous.
Bark, with the elixir of vitrfol and  opium, to re-
lieve the pain, are to be frequently employed. As
a local remedy,  a blister ranks  veiy high. It
should be placed directly on the part.  After  being
cu*,  it may be succeeded  by a bas.licon plaster. A
modern writer strongly recommends the solution
of arsenic, as a  local remedy in this disease.
Pledgets of linen dipped in the liquor,  are  to be
laid  on  the  swelling,  and  frequently renewed.
When matter begins to  form,  apply a bread and
milk poultice,  and treat it in every respect as a
common ulcer.
               Whitlow, or felon.
  Symptoms.—An inflamed tumour at the end of
the finger.   It is of three kinds.   The first is situ-
ated immediately under the skin, around the nail.
The second,  in the cellular membrane,  the pain
and  swelling of which is much greater than in the
first, and the matter much longer in forming. The
third lies under the sheath or covering of the ten-
ions of the fingers, and is infinitely more violent,
painful, anu dangerous, than either of the others.
  Treatment.—If of the first description,  open the
little abscess with a needle, and let out the matter,
which should be prevented from forming, if possi-
ble, by bathing the part with camphoretted spirits.
The second should  be dispersed  by purging, and
by leeches and blisters.  If the inflammation is not
reduced  by these means, with a very sharp pen-
knive, make an early and free incision-in the mid-
dle of the last joint of the finger down to the bone.
Suffer the blood to run for a few minutes, anil then
treat it as a common cut. Tlie same practice should
be folloAved Avith regard to the third.

                     Piles.
  Symptoms.—A pain  in the  fundament when
going to stool; on examination small tumours are
perceived to project beyond its verge.  They are
of two kinds, the blind and bleeding.  They may
also be internal and  external.
                 Blind piles.
   Treatment.—A  diet of rye mush  and milk,
strictly adhered to for a length of time, will very
frequently  cure the disease.  If they project, are
swelled,  and painful,  apply   twenty  or thirty
leeches to them, and cold applications.  The com-
mon gall ointment is  a very soothing application.
Balsam copaiva, in doses sufficiently large topurge
freely, is also highly recommended.   A radical
cure, however, is only to be sought for in the knife
or ligature, for Avhich apply to a surgeon.   If the
pain is very great, laudanum may be taken to ease it.
                Bleeding piles.
   Treatment.—If the bleeding is considerable, in-
ject a solution of alum or a decoction of oak bark,
or make  pressure upon the vessels by introducing
a sheep's gut, tied at one end into the fundament,
and then filling  it with any astringent fluid by  a
clyster pipe.   This evacuation  is sometimes salu-
tary, and it often requires much judgment to know
if it should be stopped or not.

                  Of Abscess.
   Symptoms.—The t  rmation of matter under the
skin, or  in any part, of the body,  preceded by in-
flammation,  and m-.iked  by a dull heavy weight;
by the pain becoming more acute and darting; by
a  peculiar throbbing; by the  swelling becoming
more elevated, and soft to the touch. If the tumour
is not opened it bursts.
   Treatment.—Apply a soft and  warm bread and
milk, or linseed poultice to the part, and endea-
vour to hasten the formation of matter.  When this
is evident, let it out  with a sharp lancet.  If the
patient  is weak, let him have a generous diet with
wine, porter, bark, &c.
                Psoas Abscess.
   Symptoms.- -A weakness across the loins, accom-
panied by a dull  pain.  After a while, the  pain
shifts from the back to the thigh and hip, becoming
more darting and severe.  The glands in the groin
swell, and at last a soft tumour is perceived at the
lower edge of the groin, or by the side of  the fun-
dament;  the swelling  increases to a large size, and
sometimes extends iiself down the thigh.
   Treatment.—In the early stage, bleed and purge
the patient, keep him on a low diet, and  apply a
large blister  over the  lower part of the back. Con-
finement in  bed is absolutely necessary.   When
matter is formed, make  an opening into the tu-
mour in  the following manner:  Push a sharp lancet
first through  the skin, then obliquely upwards un-
der it, a.id then, by  depressing the  point, pierce
the swelling itself"   In this way,  the  abscess is
opened without the danger that attends wounds of
large cavit'es. If it  is small, the whole of ihe mat-
ter may be allowed  to flow away at once; if large,
after drawing a pint, close  the wound for a few
hours, and then finish the operation.  The lips oi
the wound must be kept together by sticking plas- 
 220                           UNIVERSAL R

 ter.   As there are many vessels of importance in  I
 the groin, care must be taken to avoid  wounding
 them, and  if a  surgeon can be  had,  he should
 always be applied to for this purpose.

                    Of fistula.
   Symptoms.—An  abscess or ulcer in the  neigh-
 boiunood of the fundament, preceded  by  an in-
 flamed swelling, which gives much pain, 'if there
 is no communication between the gut and the sore,
 it is called an incomplete,  if there is, a complete
 fistula.
   Treatment—As  the tumour  is often taken for
 piles, attention should be paid to distinguish tuera.
 In all cases apply forty or fifty leeches to the part,
 keep the bowels perrectly loose by a diet of rye
 mush, and confine the patient to his bed.  If, how-
 ever, the formation  of matter cannot be hindered,
 the swelling must be opened  early, and  a poultice
 applied to it, when  the disease occasionally heals
 like  ahy other sore; but nine times out of ten it
 forms  a  callous  winding abscess, through which
 (if it is  complete)  excrement,  he. often  passes.
 When it arrives at this point, nothing but  an ope-
 ration  can ever be of any service.
  There is  another species of fistulous opening,
 which follows the  obstruction   caused  by  stric-
 tures,  &c.  in  the  urinary passage.  The water
 not being able to flow through  the natural canal,
makes its way out between the bag and  the funda-
ment, constituting what is called  fistula in perineo.
It may almost be called an incurable disease; at all
events, none but  a surgeon can do any thing to re-
lieve it.
                   Of Ulcers.
  By ulcers, are meant holes or sores in the skin
 nd  flesh, which dischage  matter.  They are  di-
 ided into inflamed, fungous, sloughing, and  in-
dolent ulcers  in  the  nei-ghbouihood  of  carious
bone, and those  attended  by a peculiar diseased
action.
                Inflamed ulcers.
  Symptoms.—The margin of the sore is ragged.
the skin ending  in  a sharp edge  round it.  The
neighbouring parts  are red, swelled and painful,
the bottom of the ulcer is uneven and covered with
a white spongy  substance.  In  place of  healthy
yellow matter, it discharges a thin fluid; the sur-
face  of it bleeds on the slightest touch.
  Treatment.—Confine the patient to bed, bleed
and purge him occasionally, let his diet be extreme-
ly low, and apply a  s ;ft bread and milk or linseed
poultice to the ulcer.   When healthy yellow mat-
ter is formed, omit the poultice, keep the sore very
clean, and apply a plaster of simple ointment
                Fungous ulcers.
  Symptoms.—The presence of large round gran-
ulations, rising above  the  level  of the adjoining
parts, or  what is commonly called  proud flesh, ;
marks this species of ulcer.
  'Treatment.—Sprinkle  red precipitate over the
proud flesh, or touch it with lunar caustic, apply
dressings  of simple cerate to the sore, and pass a
band'ige tightly over the whole.  Burnt  alum and
blue vitriol may also be used to destroy the pioud
flesh.  Pressure by a bandage will often succeed I
when all other means fail.
                Sloughing  ulcer.
  Symptoms.— The death of parts of an ulcerwhich
mortify and fall off,  generally attended by fever and
pain.
   Treatment.—The diet should be gsnerous, lau-
danum must be  taken  to relieve pain, and bark,
wine, porter, he. to strengthen the system.  The
carrot, poultice is the best local application.  The
sore may also  be washed with equal parts of a hot
tECEIPT BOOK.

  decoction  of poppy heads  and  spirits  ot  wine.
  When the dead portions have all fallen off, treat it
  as a simple ulcer, paying attention, however,  to the
  state of the system.
                  Indolent ulcer.
    Symptoms.—The edges of the  skin are  thick,
  raised, smooth and shining.  The  points of new
  flesh are glossy, and the appearance of the  whole
  ulcer is that of an old one,  in which the healing
  process is at a stand.
    Treatment.—Touch  the  whole surface,  sides
  and  edges of the sore with caustic, blue vitriol, or
  poAvler it Avith Spanish flies or red precipitate, and
  endeavorr in this way to rouse the parts to action.
  If one article fails, try another.   Strips of sticking
  plaster > <iay be passed over the ulcer, about an inch
  apart, so as to draw its edges nearer together, and
  a long bandage be applied over the whole.
                  Carious ulcer.
   Symptoms.—Ulcers situated over  or near cari-
  ous (or dead) bones, are thereby prevented  from
  healing,  they frequently penetrate  deep  into  Ihe
  parts, forming a canal wilh hard and indolent sides,
  that  discharges an offensive unhealthy matter.
   Treatment.—Keep the sore clean, repress any
  proud flesh that may arise, and pay attention  to the
  general health of the patient, taking care that  his
  strength  be kept rp, if necessary, by Avine,  bark,
  porter, he. he.   The ulcer will not heal until all
  the pieces of dead bone are thrown off. This pro-
  cess  sometimes lasts for years, in which case, pa-
  tience is  the only remedy, and nature the best phy-
  sician.
   Cases of ulceration frequently occur, proceeding
 from various causes, whose ravages seem to bid
 defiance  to medical power.   So  many extraordi-
 nary and well  attcs^d instances of recovery from
 some of these, (in Avhich death seemed already to
 have clutched  his emaciated  victim,) by means of
 the Panacea of Mr Swaim, have been laid before
 the public, that it seems due to  the unfortunate
 victims who may be afflicted Avith it, to state, that
 instances of the above nature ha. :  actually hap-
 pened under the eye of the editor   Be its compo-
 sition what it may, its effects are  svident.   In all
 cases of ulceration, too much  strc.s cannot be laid
 upon the necessity of keeping W parts clean.
              OF ACCIDENTS.

  Whenever a blow has bt :n  inflicted, whether
by being thrown from a horse, out of a carriage, by
falling from a  height, or in ar.y other way, bleed
the patient  to the amount of twelve  or fourteen
ounces, on the spot, if practicable, if  not, as soon
after the accident as  possible.   This  rule admits
of but one exception, and that is,#when the vio-
lence has been so great as nearly to Extinguish all
the powers of life, in Avhich case  it is  proper to
wait for symptoms of returning animation. To has-
ten these, a litlle wine and Avater, or other stimu-
lus may be given.
  If, in consequence ofa broken bone or other in-
jury, the patient is unable to  walk, take a door
from its hinges,  lay him carefully  on it, and have
him carried by assistants to the  nearest house.  If
no door or sofa can be procured, two boarus, suf-
ficiently long and broad, should be nailed to two
cross pieces, the ends of which  must project about
a foot, so as to form handles.  If in the  woods, oi
where no boards can be procured,  a litter may be
formed from the branches of trees.  In this way a
hand-barrow may be constructed in a few minutes,
on which the sufferer may Le properly carried.
  If he has been wounded and bleeds, the bleeding
must be stnppeu </*tore he is removed. 
MEDlCmE.
221
  Having reached a house, lay him on a bed, and
undress him Aviih care and gentleness.  If any dif-
ficulty arises in getting off his coat or pantaloons,
rip up the seams, rather than use force.  This be-
ing done, proceed to ascertain the nature of the in-
jury.
  This may be either  simple or compound; that
is, it may be a contusion or bruise, a weand, frac-
ture cr dislocation, or it may be two or all of them
united in one or several parts.
  A contusion  is the  necessary consequence  of
every blow, and is known by the swelling and dis-
coloration of the skin.
  Wounds are self-evident.
  Fractures are known by the sndden and  severe j
pain, by the mis-shapen appearance of  the limb,
sometimes by its being shortened, by the patient
being unable to move it without excruciating pain,
but most certainly, by grasping the limb  above and
below  the spot where the fracture is supposed  to
exist, and twisting it different ways, when a grating
will be felt, occasioned  by the broken ends of the
bone rubbing against each other.  If the swelling,
however, is very great, this experiment should not
be made until it is reduced.
  Dislocations, or bones being out  of joint, are
known by the deformity of the joint when compar-
ed with its fellow, by ihe pain and inability to move
the limb, by its being longer or shorter than usual,
and by the impossibility of moving it in particular
directions.
                 Of contusion.
  If slight, bathe the part frequently with cold vi-
negar and w?ter for a few  hours, and then rub it
well with brandy, or spirits of any kind.  Should
it be very great, or so as to have affected the whole
body, which may be knoAvn by a general soreness,
bleed and purge the patient, and confine him to a |
diet of rice Avater, lemonade, panada, he.  If fe-
ver comes on, repeat the bleeding,  purging, he.
In all cases of this nature, be sure the water is re-
gularly evacuated,  for it sometimes  happens  that
in consequence of the nerves of the bladder being
palsied by the blow, the patient feels m desire to
pass it, though the bladder be full.   If a sjppres-
sion ensues, pass a catheter, if possible, or procure
assistance for that purpi.se.
                  Of sprains.
  Plunge the part sprained into very cold water,
and hold it there as long at a time as you can bear
it—for several hours—then rub it well with cam-
phorated spirits. If the accident has happened to a
joint, as in the ankle, and it remains weak, pour
cold water on it from the spout of a lea-kettle, ft^ld ,
at a distance, several times in the  day.  The most
serious effects, however, resulting from contusion, ]
are when the btow is applied to the  head, produc-
ing either concflAion  or compression of the brain.

            Concussion of the brain.
  Symptoms. —The patient is stunned, his breath-
ing slow, drowsiness, stupidity, the pupil of  the
eye rather contracted, vomiting.  After a time he
recovers.
  Treatment.—Apply cloths dipped in cold vine-
gar and water to his head, and when the  stupor is
gone bleed him, and open his bowels with Epsom
salts. He should be confined to bed, kept on a low
diet, in a quiet situation, and every measure taken
to prevent an inflammation of the brain, which, if
it comes on, must be  treated by copious bleeding,
blisters,  he.

            Compression of the brain.
  Symptoms.—Loss of  sense  and motion,  slow,
noisy and laoorious breathing, pulse slow and ir-
regular, the muscles relaxed, as in a  person just
dead  the pupil of the  eye enlarged and will not
contract  even  by a strong light, the  patient lies
like one in an apoplectic fit, and cannct be roused.
  Treatment.—Open a vein and  draw  off sixteen
or twei.ty ounces of blood, shave the head, and it
possible, procure surgical assistance without delay,
as there is nothing but an operation that can be ol
any avail.
                  Of wounds.
  Wounds are of three kinds, viz. incised, punc-
tured and contused; among the latter are included
gun-shot wounds.  The first step in all wounds, is
             To stop the bleeding.
  If the flow of blood  is  but trifling, draw the
edges of the wound together with your hand, and
hold them in that position some time, when it will
frequently stop.   If, on  the contrary, it is large,
ofa bright red colour, flowing in spirts or with a
jsrk, clap your finger on the spot it springs from,
and hold it there Avith a firm pressure, while you di-
rect some one to passa handkerchief round the limb
(sunposing the wound to be in one) above the cut,
and to tie its two ends together in a hard knot. A
cane, whip-handle,, or stick of any kind, must now
be passed under  the knot, (between the upper sur-
face of the limb and the handkerchief) and turned
round and round until the stick is brought down to
the thigh, so as to make the handkerchief encircle
it with considerable tightness. You may then  take
offyour finger, if the blood still flows, tighten the
handkerchief by  a turn or two of the stick, until it
ceases.   The patient may now be removed (taking
care to secure the stick in its position) without  run-
ning any risk of bleeding to death  by thi way.
  As this apparatus cannot be left on for any length
of time, Aviihout destroying the  life of the parts,
endeavour as soon as possible to secure the bleed-
ing vessels,  and  take it off.  Having waxed toge-
ther three or four threads of a  sufficient  length,
cut the  ligature they form,  into as  many pieces as
you think there' are vessels to be  taken up,  each
piece being about a foot long.   Wash the  parts
with warm water, and then with a  sharp hook, or
a slender pair of pincers in  your hand, fix your
eye  steadfastly upon the wound,  and  direct the
handkerchief to be relaxed by a turn or two of »he
stick; you will  now see  the  mouth of the  arteiy
from wtrch  the blood  springs, seize it  with your
hook or pincers, draw it a little out, while someone
passes a ligature round it, and ties it up tight  with
a double knot.   In this way take up in succession
every bleeding vessel you can see or get hold of.
  If the wound is too high up in a limb to apply
the  handkerchief,  don't lose your  presence of
mind, the bleeding can still be commanded.   If it
is  the thigh, press: firmly in the  groin, if in the
arm, with the hand end or ring of a common door
key, make pressure above the collar bone, and auout
its middle against the first rib which lies under it.
The pressure is to be continued until assistance is
procured, and the vessel tied up.
  If the wound is  on the head, press your fingei
firmly on it, until  a compress can  be  brought,
which must  be bound  firmly OA-er the artery by a
bandage.  If the  wound is in the face, or so situat-
ed that  pressure cannot be effectually made, or you
cannot get hold of the vessel, and the blood ffov, s
fast, place a piece of ice directly over the wound,
and let  it remain there till the  Llood coagulates,
when it may be removed, and a compress and ban-
dage he applied.
          ,      Incised wounds.
  By an incised wound  is meant a clean cut. Hav-
ing stopped  the bleeding, wash away  all  dirt, he. 
222
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 that may he in It with a sponge  and warm water,
 then draw the  sides of the wound together,  and
 keep  them in that position  by  narrow stiips of
 Sticking plaster, placed on at regular distances, or
 from one to two inches apart   A soft compress of
 old linen or lint may be laid over the Avhole.
   Should  much inflammation folloAV, remove the
 strips, bled and purge the patient (who should live
 very low,  and be kept perfectly quiet) according
 to the exigency of the case.   U it is  plain that
 matter must form before the wound will  heal, ap-
 ply a soft poultice until that event takes place,
 when dressings of some simple ointment may be
 substituted for it.
   Although  narrow  strips  of linen, spread  with
 sticking plaster, form tlie best means  of keeping
 the sides of a wound together, when they can  be
 applied, yet  in the ear, nose, tongue,  lips,  and
 eye-lids, it is necessary to use stitches, which are
 made  in the  following manner; Having armed a
 common needle with a double waxed thread, pass
 the point of it through the skin, at a little distance
 from the edge of the cut, and bring it out of the
 opposite one,  at the same distance.   If more than
 one stitch is required, cut oft' the needle, thread it
 again, and proceed as before, until a  sufficient
 number are taken, leaving the threads loose until
 all the stitches are passed, when  the respectiA'e
 ends of each thread must be tied in  a hard double
 knot, drawn in such a way that it bears a little on
 the side of the cut. When the edges of the wound
 are partly united by inflammation,  cut the knots
 carefully, and withdraw the threads.
  From what  has been said,  it must be evident
 that in ah wounds, after arresting the flow of blood,
 and clea-ising  the parts, if necessary, the great in-
 dication is lo bring their sides into contact through-
 out their whole depth, in order that they may grow
 together as quickly as possible, and without  the
 intervention of matter.  To obtain this very de-
 sirable result, in  addition to  the means already
mentioned, there are two things lo be attended to,
the position of the  patient and  the  application of
the bandage.   The position  of the patient should
be such as will relax the skin  and muscles of the
part wounded, thereby diminishing their tendency
*.o separate.
  A common  bandage of a proper width, passed
over the compresses moderately tight,  not only
serves to keep them in their place,  bu< also tends
by its pressure, to forward the great  object already
mentioned.  If,  however,  the wound is so exten-
sive and painful that the limb  or  body  of the pa-
tient cannot be raised for the purpose of applying
or removing it, the best way is to spread the two
ends of one or two strips of  linen or leather with
sticking plaster, which may be  applied in place of
the bandage, as follows; attach one end of a strip
to the sound  skin, at a short distance  from the
 edge of the compress, over which it is to be drawn
with moderate firmness, and secured in a similar
manner on its opposite side.  A second or third
may, if necessary, be added  in the same way.
  In all wounds, if violent inflammation come on,
reduce it by bleeding, purging, he. but if there is
reason to fear  locked-jaw, give wine, porter, bran-
dy, opium, and a generous diet.
              Punctured wounds.
  These are caused by sharp pointed instruments,
as needles, awls, nails, &c.   Having stopped the
 bleeding, withdraw any foreign body, as part of a
needle, splinters, bit of glass,  &c. that may be in
 it, provided it can  be done easily;  and if enlarging
the wound a little will enable  you to succeed in I
this, do so.  Though it is noUalways necessary to
enlarge wounds of this  nature, yet in hot weather
it is a mark of precaution, which  should never be I
 omitted.   As soon as Ihis is done, poura little tur-
 pentine into the  Wound, or touch it with caustic,
 and then cover it with a poultice, moistened with
 laudanum.   This practice  may  prevent locked-
 jaw, which Is but  too frequent a consequence of
 wounds of this description.  When matter forms,
 cover the part with mild dressings, as a common
 sore.   Laudanum may be given in iarge doses, to
 relieve pain, and should the inflammation  be ex-
 cessive, bleed and purge. In hot weather, however,
 bleeding should be employed in great moderation.
               Contused wounds.
   Wounds of this nature are caused by round or
 blunt bodies, as  musket balls,  clubs,  Stones, &c.
 They are in  general attended but by little bleed-
 ing;  if, however, there should  be any,  it must be
 stopped. If it arises from a ball which can be easily
 found and withdrawn, it is proper to do so, as well
 as any piece  of tlie clothing, he. that may be in it;
 or if the ball can be distinctly  felt  directly  under
 the skin, make an  incision across it, and take it
 out, but never  allow of any poking  in  the wound
 to search for such things; the best extractor of
 them, as well as the first and  best  application in
 contused wounds, proceed  from what  they may,
 being a soft bread and milk poultice.
  Should the  inflammation be great,  bleed  and
 purge.  Pain may  be relieved  by laudanum,  and
 if the parts assume a dark look, threatening a mor-
 tification, cover them with a blister.
   If the wound is much  torn, wash the parts very
 nicely with warm water, and then (having secured
 every bleeding vessel) lay them all down in  as na-
 tural a position as  you  can,  draAving  their edges
 gently together, or as much so as possible, by strips
 of sticking piaster, or stitches, if necessary.  A
 soft  po'.ltice  is to be applied over the Avhole.
 Poisoned  wounds from bites of mud dogs, rattle-
                  snakes, &c.
  The instant a person  is b.itten  either by a mad
 dog, rattle-snake, or any rabid animal or reptile,
 he should apply  a ligature by means of the  slick,
 above the wound, as tightly as he can well bear il,
 and Avithout hesitation or delay, cut out the parts
 bitten, taking along with them a portion  of the sur-
 rounding sound flesh.  The wound should then be
 freely touched  with caustic, or  have  turpentine
 poured  into  it.   A decoction of Spanish flies in
 turpentine, may also be applied  to the skin sur-
 rounding  the wound. By these means  inflamma-
 tion  will be excited, and suppuration follow, Avhich
 may  prevent the usual dreadful consequences of
 such accidents.   As soon as the parts are cut out,
 take off the ligature.
  Should the patient be too timid to alloAv the use
 of the knife, burn the wound very  freely  with caus-
tic, and place in it a tuft  of tow or cotton, well
 moistened with the above decoction. The discharge
 of matter that follows should be ^nt up for some
 time.  The  only reasonable cii:n^  for safety, is
 found in the above plan, all the vegetable and mine-
 ral productions that have  been  hitherto recom-
 mended as internal remedies, being of very doubt-
ful, if of any efficacy.
  The use of the chlorurels,  however, in treating
 wounds from  rabid animals, is now becoming gene-
ral in France and Germany, and many satisfactory
cases are  recorded.  M. Schoer.berg,  a German
 surgeon, states,  that of three  persons who Avere
 bitten by a dog,  two used  the  chloruret of  lime,
 and recovered from their wounds, whilst the  third,
 who  refused to submit to the treatment, died rav-
 ing mad.  This gentleman applies to the Avounds,
 twice a day, a piece of lint dipped in a solution ot
 the chloruret, and orders his patients to take, three
 times a day, from 2 drachms  to 1 ounce of  the
 chloruret in Avater. 
MEDICINE.
223
 Stings of bees and wasps, bites ofmusquittoes, &c.
   Nothing relieves the pain arising from the sting
 of a hornet, bee, or wasp, so soon as plunging the
 part in extremely cold water, and holding it there
 for some time.   A cold lead-water poultice is also
 a  very soothing application.  If a number of these
 insects  haA'e attacked you  at once, and the parts
 stung are much swollen, lose some blood, and take
 a  dose of salts.
   Musquitto-bites may be treated in the same man-
 ner, although 1  h«ve  found a solution of common
 salt  and water,  made very strong, speedy and ef-
 fectual  in relieving the pain.   Camphorated spi-
 rits, vinegar, he.  may also be used for the same
 purpose. A solution of Prussian blue in soft water,  I
 with which the parts are to be kept  constantly
 moist, is a highly celebrated remedy for the stings
 of bees, wasps, he. he.
          Wounds of tlie ear, nose, &c.
   Wash the parts clean, and draw tne edges of the
 wouud  together by as many stitches as  are neces-
 sary.  If the part  is eAen completely  separated,
 and has been trodden under leet, by washing it in
 warm water, and placing it accurately in the pro-
 Eer  place,  by  the same  means, it may still ad-
 ere.
              Wounds of the scalp.
   In all wounds of the scalp it is necessary to shave
 off the hair.  When  this is done, Avash the parts
 well, and draw the edges  of the Avound together
 Avith sticking plaster.  It it has been violently torn
 up in several pieces, wash  and lay them  all uown
 on the skull again, drawing their edges as nearly
 together as possible by  sticking plaster, or,  if ne-
 cessary, by stitches.   Cover the whole with a soft
 compress, smeared with some simple ointment.
             Wounds of the throat.
   Seize and tie  up every bleeding vessel you  can
 get hold of.  If the wind-pipe is cut only partly
 through, secure  it with sticking plaster.  If it is
 completely divided, bring its  edges together by
 stitches,  taking  care  to pass  the needle  through
 the loose membrane  that  covers the wind-pipe,
 and  not through the wind-pipe itself.   The head
 should be bent on the breast,- and secured by bols-
 ters and bandages in that po-ition, to favour the ap-
 proximation ot the edges of the wound.
              Wounds of the chest.
   If it is a simple incised wound, draw  the  edges
 of it together by sticking  plaster, cover it with a
 compress of linen,  and pass a bandage  round the
 chest.   The patient is  to  be confined to his bed,
 kept on a very iow diet, and to be bled and purged,
 in order to  prevent  inflammation.  II" the latter
 comes on,  reduce it by  copious  and  frequent
 bleedings.
   Should it be occasioned by a bullet, extract it,
 and any pieces of cloth, he. that  may be lodged in
 it, if possible, ai^fcover the wound  with a piece of
 linen smeared wuli some simple  ointment, taking
 care that it is not drawn into the ch<»st. If a portion
 of the lung protrudes, return it without any deiay,
 but as gently as possible.
              Wounds of the belly.
   Close the wound by strips of sticking plaster,
 and  stitches passed through  the skin,  about half
 an inch from its  edges, and cover the whole  with a
 soft  compress,  secured by a bandage.   Any in-
 flammation  that may arise is to be reduced  by
bleeding,  purging,  and a  blister over the  whole
 belly.
   Should any part of the bowels come  out at  the
 wound,  if clean and uninjured, return it as quickly
 as possible;  if covered with dirt, clots of blood,
he. wash it carefully in warm water previous to so
doing.   It the gut is wounded,  and  only cut  partly
through, draw the  two edges of it  together by a
stitch, and  return  it; if completely divided, con-
nect the edges by four utitches at equal distances,
and replace it in  the belly, always  leaving the
end of  the ligature project  from the  external
wound, which  must he closed by sticking  plaster.
In five or six days, if the threads are  loose, with-
draw them gently and carefully.
               Wounds of joints.
  Bring the edges of the wound together by stick-
ing plaster, without any delay, keep ihe part per-
fectly at rest, bleed, purge, and live very low,  to
prevent inflammation. Should it come on, it must
be met at ii- first approach by bleeding to as great
an extent as the condition of the patient will war-
rant, and by a blister covering the Avhole joint.  If
a permanent stiffening of the joint seems likely to
ensue, keep the limb in that position which will
prove most useful, that is, the leg should he ex-
tended, and the arm bent at the elbow.   Wounds
of joints are always highly  dangerous, and fre-
quently terminate in death.
              Wounds of tendons.
  Tendons, or sinews, are frequently wounded and
ruptured.   Tney are to be treated precisely like
any otfor wound,  by keeping their divided parts
together.   The  tendon  which  connects the great
muscle forming the calf of the  leg, with the heel,
called the tendon of Achilles, is frequently cut with
the adze, and  ruptured in jumping from  heights.
This accident  is to be remedied by draAvl.ig up the
heel, extending the foot, and placing a  splint on the
fore part  of the leg, extending from the  knee to
beyond the toes, which bei.ig secured  in that posi-
tion by a  bandage, keep the foot  in  the position
just mentioned.  The  hollows under the splint
must  be filled up with tow or cotton.  If the  skin
falls into the space between the ends of the tendon,
apply a piece of sticking plaster," so as to draAv it
out of the way. It takes  five or six weeks to unite,
but no weight should be laid on the limb for seve-
ral months.
                  Of fractures.
  The signs by which  fractures may be known,
having been  already pointed out  with sufF.cient
minuteness, it will be unnecessary to dwell  there-
on; it will be well, however, to recollect this gene-
ral rule:  In cases, Avhere, from the accompanying
circumstances and symptoms, a strong  suspicion
exists that the bone is fractured,  it is proper to act
as though it were positively ascertained  to be so.
       Fractures of the bone of the nos"..
  The bones of the nose from their exposed situa-
tion, are  frequently forced in.  Any smooth arti-
cle that will pass into the nostril should  be  imme-
diately introduced with one hand, to raise the de-
pressed portions  to the  proper level,  while the
other is employed in moulding ihem into the re-
quired shape.  If violent inflammation follows,
bleed, purge, and lire on a low diet.
           Fracture of tlie lower jaw.
  Tl.is accident is easily discovered by looking in-
to the mouth,  and is to be remedied by keeping
the lower jaw firmly pressed against the upper one.
by means ofa bandage  passed under the chin and
over the head.  If \\ is broken near the angle, oi
that part nearest the ear, place a cushion or  roll of
linen in the hollow behind it, over which the ban-
dage must pass, so as to make it  push that part of
the bone  forward.   The parts are to be cunfned in
lh>s way  for tAventy days, during which time, all
the nourishment that is taken, should be sucked
between the teeth. If in consequence of the blow,
a tooth is loosened, do  not meddle with it,  for if
let alone, it will grow fast again.
         Fractures  of the collar bone.
  This accident is a very common occurrence, and 
224
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 is known at once by passing the finger along it, and
 by the swelling, &c.  To reduce it, seqt  the pa-
 tient in a chair Avithout any shirt, and place a pret-
 ty stout compress of liuen, mrde in the shape ofa
 wedge, under his arm, the  thick end of which
 should  press against the arm-pit.  His arm, be nt
 to a  right angle at the elbow, is now to be  brought
 down to his side, and secured in that position by a
 long bandage, which passes over the arm of the af-
 fected side a  ,d round the body.  The fore-arm is
 to be supported  across the breast by a sling.   It
 takes from tour to live weeks to re-unite.
              Fractures of the arin.
   Seat the  patient on a chair, or the side of a bed,
 let one assistant hold the sound arm, while  another
 grasps the  wrist of the broken one and steadily ex-
 tends it in an opposite direction, bending the fore-
 arm  a little, to  serve as a lever.  You can now
 place the bones  in their proper situati in.  Two
 splints of shingle or stout paste board, long enough
 to reach from beloAV the shoulder to near  the el-
 bow, must  then be well covered with  tow  or cot-
 ton,  ard laid  along each side of the arm, and kept
 in that position by a bandage.  The fore-arm is  to
 be supported in a sling.   Two smaller splints may
 for better security be laid between the first  ones,
 that  is one on top, and  the other underneath the
 arm, to be secured by the bandage in the same way
 as the others.
      Fr~ctures of the bones of the fore-arm.
  These are to be reduced  precisely in the  same
 way, except ing the mode of keeping the upper por-
 tion  of it  steady, whk.i  is done by grasping the
arm  above the elbow.   When the splints and ban-
dage are applied, support it in a sling.
             Fractures of the wrist.
  This accident is of rare occurrence.  When  it
does happen the  injury is generally  so great as  to
require amputation.   If you think the hand can be
 saved, lay it  on  a splint well covered  with tow;
this  extends  beyond  the fingers; place another
splint opposite to it, lined with the same soft ma-
terial, and secure them by a bandage.   The  hand
is to be carried in a sling.
  The bones of the hand are sometimes broken.
When this  is the case, fill the palm with soft  com-
presses  or tow, and then lay a splint on  it, long
enough  to extend from  the elbow to  beyond the
ends of the fingers, to be secured by a bandage,  as
usual.
  "When a finger is broken, extend the end of  it
until it becomes straight, place the fractured por-
tion  in its place,  and then apply two small paste-
board splints, one below and the other above,  to
be secured  by a narrow bandage.  The top splint
 should extend from the end of the finger over the
 back of the hand.  It may sometimes be proper  to
have two additional  splints for the sides of the
 finger.
             Fractures of the ribs.
   When, after a fall or blow, the patient complains
 ofa  pricking in his side, we may suspect  a  rib  is
 broken. It is  ascertained by placing the tips of two
 or three fingers on the spot  where the pain is, and
 desiring the  patient to  cough, Avhen the  grating
 sensation will be felt.  All  that is necessary, is  to
 pass a broad  bandage round the chest, so tight  as
 to prevent the motion of the ribs in breathing, and
 to observe  a low diet.
             Fractures of the thigh.
   This bone  is frequently broken, and hitherto has
 ocen considered  the  most difficult of all fractures
 to manage.  To the ingenuity, however, of Dr
 Hartshorne, of this city, the world is indebted for
 an apparatus which does away the greatest impe-
 diments that  have been found to exist in treating
 it, so as to  leave a straight limb, without lameness
 I or deformity; nor is it the least of its merits, that
  any man of common sense can  apply it nearly as
  well as a surgeon.
 [   It consists of two splints made of half or three
  quarter inch well seasoned stuff, from eight to ten
  inches wiue, oneof which should reach from a little
 ! above the hip, to fifteen or sixteen inches beyond
  the foot, while the other extends the same length
  from the groin. The upper end of the inner splint
  is hollowed out and  Avell padded or stuffed. Their
  lower ends are held together by :  cross piece, hav-
  ing two tenons, which enter two vertical mortices,
  one in each splint, and secured there by pins.  In
  the centre of this'cross piece (which should be very
  solid) is a  female screw.   Immediately above the
  vertical mortices, are two  horizontal ones of con-
  siderable  length, in which slide the tenons of a
  secojnd cross piece, to the upper side of which is
  fastened a foot block, shaped like the sole of a shoe,
  while in the other is a round  hole for  the recep-
  tion of the  head  of the male screw, which passes
  through the female one just noticed. On the top
  of this cross piece, to which the foot block is at-
  tached, are  two pins, which fall into grooves at the
  head of the screw, thereby firmly connecting them.
  The foot block as before observed, is shaped like
  the sole of a shoe.   Near the toe is a slit, through
  which passes a strap and buckle.  Near the  heel
  are a couple of  straps, with two rings, arranged
  precisely like those of a  skate, of which, in fact,
  the whole foot block is an exact resemblance.  A
  long male screw, of wood or other material, com-
  pletes the apparatus.
    To apply it, put a slipper on the foot of the bro-
  ken limb, and lay the apparatus over tl"  leg.   By
  turning the  screw, ihe foot block will be forced up
  to the foot  in the slipper,  which is  to  be firmly
  strapped to  it, as boys fasten their skates. By turn-
  ing the screw the contrary way, the padded extre-
  mity of the inner splint presses  against  the groin,
  and  the foot is gradually drawn down, until the
  broken limb becomes of its natural length and ap-
  pearance, when any projection or little  inequality
  that may remain, can be felt and reduced by a gen-
  tle pressure of the hand.
   The great advantages of this apparatus, I again
'  repeat,  are  the  ease  with which  it is applied,
  and  the certainty with which it acts.   The foot
  once secured lo  the block, in  a way that  every
  school-boy understands, nothing more is required
  than to turn the  screw until  the broken limb is
  found to be of the same length as the  sound one.
j  It is right to observe that this should not be effect-
|  ed at once,  it being better to turn the screw a lit.—
j  tie every day, until the  limb is sufficiently ex-
  tended.
   As this apparatus  may not always  be at hand, it
j  is proper to mention the next best plan  of treating
|  the accident.  It  is found in the splints of Desault,
I  improved by Dr Physic, consisting**)!' four pieces.
j  The first has a crutch head, and extends from the
I  arm-pit to six or  eight inches  beyond the foot.  A
|  little below the crutch are two holes, aud near the
  lower end on the inside, is a  block, below which
  there is also a hole.  The second reaches from the
  groin,  the same length with the first, being about
  three inches  wide above  and two  below.   Two
I  pieces of stout paste board, as  many handkerchiefs
  or  bands  of muslin, wilh some tow,  and a  few
  pieces of tape, form the catalogue of the apparatus.
    It is applied as follows.  Four or  five pieces of
  tape are to be laid across the bed, at equal distances
  from each other.   Over the upper  two, is placed
  one of the  short  fasteboard splints, well covered
  with tow.   The  patient is now to be carefully and
  gently placed on  his back, so that his  thigh may
  rest on the  splint.   Oue of the handkerchiefs, or a 
MEDICINE.
225
strong soft band, is to be passed between the testi-
cle and thigh of the affected side, and its ends held
by an assistant standing near the head  of the bed.
1 he second handkerchief is to be passed round the
ankle, crossed on  the instep and  tied under the
sole of the foot.  By steadily pulling these two
handkerchiefs, the limb is to be extended, while,
with the hand, the broken bones  are replaced in
their natural position.   The  long splint is now to
be  placed by the side of the patient, the crutch
in  the  arm-pit, (which is defended  with toi",)
while the short one is laid along the inside of the
thigh and leg.  The ends of the first handkerchief,
being passed  through  the  upper  holes, are to be
drawn tight and secured by a knot, while the ends
of the second one pass over the block before men-
tioned, to be fastened in like manner, at the lower
one.   All  that remains is the short  pasteboard
splint, which  being well covered with tow, is to be
laid on the top of the thigh.  The tapes being tied
so as to keep the four splints together, completes
the operation.
   Tow is to be every where interposed between
the splints and the limb, and a large handful of it
placed in the groin, to prevent irritation from the
upper or counter extending band.  It is necessary
to be careful,  while  tying  the two handkerchiefs,
that they are not relaxed, so that if the operation is
properly performed, the two limbs will be nearly
of an equal length.
  The superior advantages of Hartshorne's appa-
ratus OA-er this, as  well as all others, must be evi-
dent to every one acquainted  with the difficulty of
keeping up that constant extension which is so ab-
solutely  necessary to avoid  deformity and lame-
ness, and Avhich is so completely  effected  by the
screw.  Next to that, however, stands the one just
described, which can be made by any carpenter in
a few minutes, and which, if carefully applied, will
be found to answer extremely well.
  Fractured thighs and legs  generally  re-unite in
six or eight Aveeks; in old men, however, they re-
quire three or four months.
  In cases of  fracture of the  thigh or leg,  the  pa-
tient should always, if possible, be laid on a matrass,
supported by boards instead of the sacking, which,
from its elasticity and the yielding of the cords, is
apt to derange the  position of the limb.
          Fractures of the knee-pan.
  This accident is  easily ascertained on inspection.
It may be  broken in any direction, but  is most
generally so across or transversely.  It is reduced
by bringing the fragments  together, and keeping
them in that position  by a long bandage passed
carefully round the  leg, from the  ankle to the
knee, then pressing the  upper fragment down so as
to meet its fellow, (the leg  being extended) and
placing a thick compress of linen  above  it, over
which the bandage is to be  continued.
  The extended limb is now to be laid on a broad
splint, extending from  the buttock  to the  heei,
thickly covered with tow to fill up the inequalities
of the leg.   For additional security, two strips of
muslin  may  be nailed to the middle of the splint,
and one on  each side, and passed about the joint,
the one  below, the other above, so as to form a
figure of eight.  In twenty  or thirty days the limb
should be moved a little to prevent stiffness.
  If the fracture is through  its length, bring the
parts together, place a compress on each side,  and
keep them  together with  a  bandage,  leaving the
limb extended and at rest.   Any inflammation in
this, or other fracture, is to be combated by bleed-
ing, low diet,  he. he.
              Fractures of the leg.
  From  the  thinness  of the parts  covering  the
principal bone of the leg, it is easy to ascertain if
      2 D
it is broken obliquely.  If, however, the fracture
be directly across, no displacement will  occur, but
the pain, swelling, and  the grating sensation, will
sufficiently decide the nature of the accident.
  If the fracture  is oblique,  let two  assistants ex-
tend the  limb, while the broken parts are  placed
by the hand in their natural position. Two splints,
that reach from a little above the knee  to nine or
ten inches below the foot, having near the upper
end of each four holes, and a vortical mortice near
the lower end, into which is fitted a cross piece,
are now to be applied as follows.  Lay two pieces
of tape about a foot long, on  each side of the leg,
just below the knee  joint, and secure them there
by several turns ofa bandage; pass a silk handker-
chief round the  ankle, cross it on the instep, and
tie it under the sole of the foot.  The two  splints
are now placed one  on each side of the leg, the
four ends of the piepes of tape passed through the
four holes and  firmly  tied,  and the cross-piece
placed in the mortice.   By tying the ends of the
handkerchief to  this cross piece the business is
finished.
  If the  fracture is across, and  no displacement
exists, apply two splints  of stout  pasteboard,
reaching from the heel to the knee, and well  cor
vered  with tow, one on each side of the  leg, se-
curing thein by a bandage passing round the limb,
and outside the splints.
  In cases of oblique fractures of the leg close to
the knee,  Hartshorne's apparatus ' for  fractured
thighs should be applied, as  already directed.
       Fractures of the bones of the foot.
  The bone of   the heel is sometimes, though
rarely, broken.    It is known by a crack at the mo-
ment of the accident, a  difficulty  in  standing,  by
the swelling, and by the grating noise on moving
the heel.   To reduce it, take a long bandage, lay
the end of it on the top of the foot, carry it over the
toes under the sole, and then by several turns se-
cure it in that position.
  The foot being extended  as much as possible,
carry the bandage along the back of the  leg above
the knee,  where it is to  be secured by several
turns, and then brought down on the front of the
leg, to which it  is secured  by circular turns.   In
this way the broken pieces will be kept in contact,
and  in the course of a month  or six weeks will
be united.
  Fractures of the foot, toes, &c. are to be treated
like those of the hand and fingers.
                Of dislocations.
  The signs by which a dislocation may be known,
have been already mentioned.   It is well to recol-
lect that the sooner the attempt is made to reduce
it, the easier it will be done.  The strength of oiu
man, properly applied, at the momer.t ot  the acci-
dent,  will often succeed in restoring the head ofa
bone to its place, which in a few days would have
required the combined efforts of men and pulleys.
If after several trials with the best apparatus that
can be  mustered, you find  you cannot  succeed,
make '.he  patient drink strong hot toddy of brandy
or other spirits, until he is very drunk.  In  this
way, owing to  the relaxed state  of  the muscles, a
very slight force will  often be  sufficient, where a
very great one has been  previously used without
effect.
  If any objections are made to this proceeding, or
if the patient will not consent  to it,  having your
apparatus (which is presently to be  mentioned) all
ready, make him stand up, and  bleed  him in  that
position until he faints; the moment this ha.ipens,
apply your extending and counter-exterding forces.
Another important rule is, to vary the direction ot
the extending force.  A slight pull in one way  will 
226                            UNIVERSAL 1

often  effect what has been in  vain attempted by
great  force in another.
          Dislocation of the lower jaw.
  This accident, which is occasioned by blows, or
yawning,  is  known  by an inability  to shut the
mouth, and the projection of the chin.   To reduce
it, seat the patient  in a chair with his head sup-
ported by the breast of an assistant,  who  stands
behind  him.  Your thumbs being  covered  with
leather, are then to be pushed between thejaws, as
far back as possible, while with the fingers, outside,
you grasp the bone, whioh is to De pressed down-
wards, at the same time that the chin  is raised.
If this is  properly done, the bone will  be found
moving,  when the ch'n  is  to be  pushed back-
wards, and the thumbs slipped between  the jaws
and the cheeks.  If this is not done, they will be
bitten by the sudden snap of the teeth as they come
together.   The jaws shoidd  be kept  closed by a
bandage for a few days, and  the patient live upon
soup.
         Dislocation of tlie collar bone.
  This bone  is rarely dislocated.  Should it occur,
apply the bandages, he. directed  for a fracture of
the same part.
           Dislocation of the shoulder.
  Dislocations of the shoulder are the most com-
mon of all accidents of the kind.  It is very easi-
ly known  by the deformity of the joint, and the
head of the bone being found in  some  unnatural
position.  To reduee it, seat the patient in a chair,
place  one hand on the prominent part of the shoul-
der blade, just above the spot where the head of
the bone should be,  while with the other you grasp
the arm above the elbow and pull it outwards.
  Should this not succeed, lay  the  patient on the
ground, place your heel in his arm-pit, and steadi-
ly and forcibly extend the arm, by  grasping it at
the Avrist.  The same thing may be tried iu various
positions, as plaeing yourself on the ground with
him, laying him on a Ioav bed, while you are stand-
ing near the foot of it, &ic.
  If this fails, pass  a strong band  over the shoul-
der, carry it across the breast, give the ends to as-
sistants, or fasten them to a staple in the  wall; the
middle of a strong band or folded towel is now to
be laid on the arm  above the elbow, and secured
there  by numerous turns of a bandage.   The two
ends of the towel being then given to assistants, or
connected with a pulley,  a steady, continued, and
forcible extension is to he made,  while with your
hands you endeavour to push the head of the bone
into its place.
           Dislocation of the  elbow.
  If the patient  has fallen on his hands, or holds
his arm bent  at the elbow, and every endeavour to
straighten it gives him pain, it is  dislocated back-
wards.  Seat him in a chair, let one person grasp
the arm near the shoulder, and  another the wrist,
and forcibly extend it, while you interlock the fin-
gers of both hands just above the  elbow, and pull
it backwards, remembering  that  under those cir-
cumstances, whatever degree of force  is required,
should be applied in this direction.  The elbow is
sometimes dislocated sideways or laterally.  To
reduce it, make extension by pulling at the wrist,
while some one secures the arm above, then push
the bone into its place, either inwards or outwards,
as may be required.   After the  reduction of a dis-
located elbow, keep the joint at  perfect rest for
five or six days,  and then move it gently.  If i >-
flammation comes on, bleed freely, purge, he. he.
      Dislocation of tlie wrist, fingers,  &c.
  Dislocations of the wrist,  fingers,  and thumb,
are readily perceived on examination; they are all
to be  reduced by forcibly extending  the lower ex-
tremity of the part, and pushing the bones into
ECEIPT BOOK.

 their place.  If necessary,  small bands may be se-
 cured to the fingers by a narrow bandage, to facili-
 tate the extension.  These accidents should be at-
 tended to without delay, for if neglected for a little
 time, they become  irremediable.
             Dislocation of the thigh.
   Notwithstanding the hip joint "is the  strongest
 one in the body, it  is sometimes dislocated.  As a
 careful examination  of the  part, comparing the
 length and appearance of the limb with its fellow,
 &c. sufficiently mark the nature of the accident,
 we will proeeed to state the remedy.
   Place the patient on his  back, upon a table cov-
 ered with a blanket.  Two sheets, folded like cra-
 vats, are then to be passed between the  thigh and
 testicle of each side, and  their ends (one  half of
 each sheet passing obliquely over the belly to the
 opposite shoulder, while the other half passes un-
 der the back in the same direction) given to seve-
 ral assistants, or what is  much better,  tied very
 firmly to a hook, staple, post, or some immovea-
 ble body.  A large, very strong napkin,  folded as
 before, like a cravat,  is now to be  laid  along the
 top of the thigh, so  that its  middle will  te just
 above the knee, where  it is to be well secured by
 many turns of a bandage.  The two ends are then
 to be knotted.  If you  have no pulleys,  a  twisted
 sheet  or  rope may  be passed through the loop
 formed by the napkin.  If you can procure  the for-
 mer, however, cast the loop over the hook of the
 lower block, and secure the upper one to the wall,
 directly opposite to the hooks or men that hold the
 sheets that pass between the thighs.  A steadily
 increasing and forcible extension  of the thigh, is
 then to be made by the men who are stationed at
 the  pulleys or sheet, while you are  turning and
 twisting the limb to assist in dislodging it from its
 unnatural situation.   By these means,  properly
 applied, the head of the bone will frequently slip
 into its socket with a  loud  noise.
   If, however, you are foiled, change the direction
 of the extending force, recollecting always, that it
 is not by sudden  or violent jerks that any benefit
 can  be attained, but by a steady increasing and long
 continued pull.  Should all your efforts prove un-
 availing (I would not  advise you to lose much time
 before you resort to it) make the patient, as before
 directed,  excessively drunk,  and when  he cannot
 stand, apply*the pulleys. If this fails, or is  object-
 ed to, bleed him till he faints, and then try it again.
          Dislocation of the knee-pan.
   When this little bone is  dislocated, it is  evident
 on the slightest glance.   To reduce it, lay  the pa-
 tient on his back, straighten the leg, lift  it up to a
 right angle with his body, and in that position push
 the bone back to  its place.   The knee should  be
 kept at rest for a few  days.
             Dislocation of the leg.
   As these accidents cannot happen without tear-
 ing and lacerating the soft  parts, but little force is
 required to place the  bones in their natural situa-
 tion.  If the parts are so much torn that the bone
 slips again out of place, apply Hartshorne's or Des-
 sault's apparatus as for  a fractured thigh.
             Dislocation of the fool.
   The foot is seldom dislocated.  Should  it hap-
 pen, however,  let one person secure the leg, and
 another draw the foot, while you push the bone in
 the contrary way to that in which it was forced out.
 The part  is then to be  covered with compresses
 dipped in lead water, and a splint applied on each
 side of the leg, that reaches below the fool.  Ac-
 cidents of this nature  are always  dangerous;  all
 that can be  done to remedy them consists in the
 speedy reduction of the bone, keeping the parts at
 rest, and subduing the  inflammation by  bleeding,
 low diet, he. he.
Rl 
MEDICINE.
221
            Of compound accidents.
  Having spoken  of the  treatment  to be pursued
for a bruise, wound, fracture and dislocation, as
happening singly, it remains to state what is to be
done when they are united.
  We will suppose that a man has  been violently
thrown from a carriage.  On examination, a Avound
is found in his thigh, bleeding profusely, his ankle
is out of joint, with a wound communicating with
its cavity, and the leg broken.
  In the  first place stop the bleeding from the
wound in  the thigh,  reduce the  dislocation  next,
draw the edges of the wounds together with stick-
ing plaster, and lastly,  apply Hartshorne's or Des-
sault's apparatus to remedy the fracture.
  If, instead of a  wound, fracture and dislocation,
there is a concussion or compression of the brain,
a dislocation  and fracture, attend to the concussion
first, the dislocation next, and the fracture the last.
                Of amputation.
   As accidents sometimes  happen at sea, or in
 situations where it is impossible to obtain a sur-
 geon, and which require the  immediate amputa-
 tion of a limb, it is  proper to say a few words on
 that subject.   To  perform the operation,  is  one
 thing, to know when it ought to be performed is
 another.   Any man of  common  dexterity  and
 firmness can cut off  a leg, but to decide upon the
 necessity of doing so, requires much judgment, in-
 stances  havi :g occurred  where,  under the most
 seemingly desperate circumstances,  the   patient
 through fear or obstinacy has refused to submit to
 the knife, and yet afterwards recovered.
   Although  in many cases much  doubt may exist
 in determining Avhether it is proper to amputate or
 not, yet in others, all difficulty vanishes, as when
 a  ball has carried away an arm.   Suppose for a
 moment while rolling in a heavy sea, during a gale,
 the lashings  of a gun give way, by which  a man
 has his knee, leg, or ankle completely mashed, or
 that either of those parts are crushed by a fall from
 the topgallant yard,  a falling tree, he.  The great
 laceration of blood vessels, nerves and tendons, the
 crushing and splintering of the bones, almost  ne-
 cessarily resulting from such accidents, render  im-
 mediate amputation an unavoidable and imperious
 duty.
   If there are  none  of the regular instruments at
 hand, you must provide the following, which are
 always to be had, and which answer extremely well
 —being careful to have the knives as  sharp  and
 smooth as possible.
   Instruments.—TI.e handkerchief and stick, a
 carving or other large knife, with a straight blade,
 a penknife, a carpenter's tenon or mitre saw, a  slip
 of leather or  linen, three inches wide and eighteen
 or twenty long, slit up the middle to the half of its
 length, a dozen or more ligatures, each about a
 foot long, made of waxed thread, bobbin, or  fine
 twine, a hook with a sharp point,  a pair of slender
 pincers, several narrow strips of sticking plaster,
 dry lint, a piece of linen, large enough to cover the
 end  of the stump, spread with simple ointment or
 lard, a bandage three or four yards long, the widlh
of your hand, sponges and warm water.
             Amputation of tlie arm.
   Operation.—Give the patient sixty drops of lau-
danum, and  seat him on a narrow and firm table
 or chest, of a convenient height, so that some  one
can support him, by  clasping him round the body.
If the handkerchief  and stick  have  not been pre-
 viously applied, place it as high up on the arm as
possible (ih-i  stick being very short) and  so that
tlie knot may pass on the inner third of it.  Your
 nstruments   having  been  placed regularly on a
table or  waiter, and within reach ot your hand,
 while some one supports the lower end of the arm,
 and at the same time draws down the skin, take
 the large knife and make one straight cut all round
 the limb, through the skin and fat only, then with
 the pen knife separate as much of the skin from
 the flesh above  the cut, and all round it, as will
 form a flap to cover the  face of the stump; when
 you think there is enough separated, turn it back,
 where it must be  held by an assistant, while Avith
 the large knife  you make a second straight inci-
 sion round the arm and down to the bone, as close
 as you can to the doubled edge of the flap, but tak-
 ing gr-^at care not to cut  it.   The  bone is  now to
 be  passed through the slit in the piece of linen be-
 fore mentioned, and pressed by its ends against the
 upper surface of the wound by the person Avho
 holds the flap, while you saw through  the bone as
 near to it as  you can. With the hooks or pincers,
 you then seize and tie up every vessel that bleeds,
 the largest first, and smaller ones  next, until thev
 are all secured.  When this  is done, relax the stick
 a little; if an artery springs, tie it as before.   The
 wound is now to be genlly cleansed Avith a sponge
 and warm water, and the slick to be relaxed.  If it
 isevident that the arteries are all tied, bring the flap
 over the end of the stump, draw its edges together
 with strips of sticking plaster, leaving the ligature
 hanging out  at  the angles,  lay the piece of linen
 spread with ointment over the straps, a pledget of
 lint over that, and secure the  whole by the ban-
 dage, when the  patient may be  carried  to bed, and
 the stump laid on a pillow.
  The handkerchief and stick are to be left loose-
 ly round the limb, so that if any bleeding happens
 to come on, it may be tightened in an instant by
 the person who  watches by  the patient, Avhen the
 dressings must  be taken off, the flap raised, and
 the vessel be sought for and tied up, after which,
 every thing is to be placed as before.
  It may be  well to observe  that in sawing through
 Lie bone, a long and free stroke should  be used, to
 prevent  any hitching,  as an additional security
 against which, the teeth of the  saw should be well
 sharpened and set wide.
  There isalso  another circumstance,  which it is
 essential to be aware of;  the ends of divided arte-
 ries cannot at times be got  hold of, or being dis-
 eased their coats give way under the hook, so that
 they  cannot  be  drawn out;  sometimes also, they
 are found ossified or turned into bone.  In all these
 cases, having armed a needle with a ligature, pass it
 through the flesh round the artery, so  that  when
 tied,  there will  be a portion of it included in the
 ligature  along with the artery.  When the liga-
 ture has  been made to encircle  the  artery, cut off
 the needle and tie it firmly in the ordinary way.
  The bandages, he. should not be disturbed for
 five or six days,  if the weather is cool; if it is very
 warm, they may be removed in three.  This is to
 be done with the greatest care,  soaking them Avell
 with warm water until they are  quile soft, and can
 be taken away without slicking to  the stump.  A
 clean plaster, lint, and bandage are then to be ap-
 plied as before, to be removed every two days. At
 ihe expiration of fourteen or fifteen days the liga-
 tures generally come away;  and in  three or four
 weeks, if every thing goes  on well, the wouna
 heals.
            Amputation of the thigh.
  This is performed in precisely the same mannei
 as that of the arm, with  one exception,  it being
 proper to  interpose a piece of lint between the
 edges of the flap, to prevent them from uniting un-
 til the surface of the stump has adhered to it.
             Amputation of  the leg.
  As there are two bones in  the leg which have a
thin muscle between, it is necessaiy to  have an 
228
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 additional Knife to those already mentioned, to di-
 vide it.  It should have a long narrow blade, with
 a double cutting edge, and a sharp point; a carving
 or case knife may be ground down to answer  the
 purpose, the blade being reduced to rather less
 than half an inch in width.   The linen or leather
 strip should also have two slits in it instead of one.
 The patient is to be laid on his back, on a table co-
 vered Avith blankets or a matrass, with a sufficient
 number of assistants to secure him. The handker-
 chief and stick being applied on theupper partof the j
 thigh,  one person holds the knee, and another  the j
 foot and leg as steadily as possible, while with  the
 large knife the operator makes an oblique inrision ;
 round the limb,  through the  skin, and beginning
 at five  or six  inches below the knee-pan, and car-
 rying it regularly round in such a manner that the
 cut will be lower down on the calf than in front of
 the leg.  As much of the skin is then to be sepa-
 rated by the penknife as will  cover the stump.
 When  this is turned back, a second  cut  is to  he
 made all round the limb and down to the bones,
 when with the narrow bladed knife, just  mention-
 ed, the flesh between them is to be divided.  The
 middle piece of the leather strip  is now to be pull-
 ed  through between the bones, the whole being'
 held back by the assistant, who  supports the flap
 while the bones are sawed,  which  should be so
 managed that the smaller one is completely cut
 through by the time the other is only half so. The
 arteries are then to be taken  up, the flap brought
 down and secured by adhesive plasters, he. as  al-
 ready directed.
          Amputation of the fore-arm.
  As the fore-arm has two bones in it, the narrow
 bladed knife, and the strip of linen with three tails,
 are to be provided. The incision should be straight
 round the part,  as in the arm, with this exception,
 complete it as directed for the preceding case.
        Amputation of fingers and toes.
  Draw the skin back, and make an incision round
 the finger, a little below the joint it is intended to
 remove, turn back a little flap to cover the stump,
 then cut down to the joint, bending it so that you
 can cut through the ligaments that connect the two
 bones,  the under one first, then  that  on the side.
 The head of the bone is then to be turned out,
 while you cut through the remaining soft  parts.
If you  see an artery spirt, tie it up, if not, bring
 down the flap and secure it by a strip of sticking
 plaster, and a narrow bandage over the whole.
  Remarks.—To prevent the troublesome conse-
 quences of secondary bleeding, before the strips of
 plaster are applied over the edges of the  flap, give
 the patient, it he is faint, a little wine and  water,
 and wait a few minutes to see whether the increas-
 ed force it gives  to the circulation, will occasion a
 flow of blood; if  it does, secure the vessel it comes
 from. If there is a considerable flow of blood from
 the hollow of the bone, place a  small cedar plug
 in it.   Should violent spasms of the stump ensue,
 have it carefully held by assistants, and give the
 patient large doses of laudanum;  it may, in fact, be
 laid down as  a general rule, that after every ope-
 ration of the  kind,  laudanum should be given in
 greater or less doses, as the patient may be in more
 or less pain.
            Of suspended animation.
  From drowning.—The common methods of roll-
ing the body of a drowned person on a barrel, or
holding it up by the heels, Sec. are full of danger,
and should never  be permitted.   If a spark of life
should happen to remain, this violence would ex-
tinguish it for ever. As soon, therefore, as the body
is found, convey it as gently as possible to the near-
est house, strip it of the wet clothes, dry it well,
 and place it on a bed between warm blankets, on
 the right side, wilh  the head elevated by pillows.
 Every part is now to be well rubbed with flannels
 dipped in  warm brandy, or spirits of any  kind,
 while a warming pan, hot  bricks, or bottles or
 bladders filled with warm  water, are applied  to the
 stomach, back, and soles of the feet. During these
 operations a certain  number of the assistants  (no
 more persons are to be allowed in  the room than
 are absolutely necessary) should try to inflate  the
 lungs, by blowing through the nozzle of a common
 bellows, or a pipe of any kind, placed in one nos-
 tril, while the other with the mouth are kept clos-
 ed.  If a warm  bath can be procured,  place  the
 body in it.   Clysters of warm brandy and water,
 salt  and water, or peppermint water may be  in-
 jected.
  All these operations, particularly rubbing the
 body, and  trying to inflate the lungs, should be
 continued for six  or eight hours,  and when the pa-
 tient has come to himself, small quantities of warm
 wine, wine-whey, brandy and water, &c. may be
 given to him, from time to time.   If, after he has
 recoA'ered,  a  stupor  or drowsiness remains, (but
 not before) bleed him very moderately.
  Should the accident occur in winter, and the bo-
 dy feel  cold, as if frozen, previously to applying
 warmth, rub  it well  with snow, ice, or very cold
 water.  Above all things remember that  perseve-
 rance for many hours in the  remedies pointed out,
 may give you the unspeakable pleasure of restor-
 ing a fellow creature to life.
  From cold.—Take ihe body  into a  room,  the
 doors and windows of which are open, aud where
 there is no fire, and rub it with snow or cold water,
 if this can be procured in plenty, the patient, with
 the exception of his face, which should be left out,
 may be  completely covered wilh it to the thickness
 of two feet.   After a while,  friction with flannels
and hot spirits are to be used, as in the preceding
case,  and Avarmth very gradually  applied.   The
 lungs are to  be inflated,  as directed  in  cases of
 drowning, and when the patient is able to swallow,
 warm wine, he. may be given in small quantities.
  If a limb is frost-bitten,  the  cold applications
 should be continued  longer, and warmth be  more
 gradually applied than  when  the  whole body is
 frozen.   Care should be taken to handle the  parts
 carefully, so as not to break  off the ear, tip of tlie
 nose, &c.
  From hanging.—The remedies for this accident
 are the  same as in drowning, with the addition of
 taking away a small quantity of blood, by cupping
 glasses, from the neck, or by opening the jugular
 vein.
  From foul air.—Throw open the doors and win-
 dows, or take the patient into the open air, and
 seat him, undressed, well wrapped in a  blanket,
 in a chair, leaning a  little to the right  side,  place
 his feet or whole  body in a bath, and sprinkle  his
 stomach with cold vinegar or water, and rub it im
 mediately with flannels dipped in oil.  Clysters ol
 vinegar and water are to be  injected, and  whei.
 animation returns, continue the frictions, and givt
 warm mint tea, he
             Of swallowing poisons.
  The first thing to be done when a person is dis-
covered to have swallowed poison is, to ascertain
what it  is he has taken, the next, to be speedy in
resorting to its appropriate remedies. If any one of
these cannot  be had, try some other without loss
of time.
                    Acids.
  Oil of vitriol, aqua fortis, spirits of sea salt, ox-
alic acid.
  Symptoms.—A burning heat in the mouth,throat, 
MEDICINE.
229
 and  stomach,  stinking breath,  an inclination to
 vomit, or vomiting various matters mixed with
 blood, hiccups, costiveness, or stools more or less
 bloody,  pain in the belly, so great that the weight
 ofa sheet cannot be borne, burning thirst, difficul-
 ty of breathing, suppression of urine, he.
   Remedies.—Mix an ounce of calcined magnesia
 wilh a pint of  water, and give a glassful every two
 minutes.   If it is  not  at hand,  use flaxseed  tea,
 rice water, or  water alone in large quantities, until
 the former can be procured.  If  it cannot be ob-
 tained, dissolve an ounce of soap in a pint of wa-
 ter, and take a glassful every two minutes; chalk
 or whiling  may also  be taken by the mouth, and
 clysters of milk be frequently injected.   If the pa-
 tient will not vomit,  put him in the warm bath,
 bleed him freely,  and apply leeches and blisters
 over the parts pained. If the cramps and convulsions
 continue, give  him a cup  of common tea, with an
 ounce of  sugar, forty drops of Hoffman's anodyne,
 and fifteen or  twenty of laudanum,  every quarter
 of an hour.  No nourishment but sweetened rice
 water is to be  taken  for  several days.   In these
 cases  never  give  tartar emetic,  ipecacuanha,  or
 tickle the throat with a feather, they only increase
 the evil.
                   Alkalies.
   Caustic pot-ash, caustic soda, volatile alkali.
   Symptoms.—These substances occasion the same
 effects as acids, producing dreadful convulsions.
   Remedies.—Take two table-spoonsful of vinegar
 or lime juice in a glass of water at once, follow it
 up by drinking large quantities of sugar and water.
 Pursue the same treatment as in poisons from acids.
                   Mercury.
   Corrosive sublimate, red precipitate, vermilion.
   Symptoms.—Constriction  and great pain in the
 throat, stomach and bowels, vomiting of various
 matters mixed with blood, unquenchable thirst,
 difficulty of urine, convulsions.
   Remedies.—Mix the whites of a dozen or fifteen
 eggs  with two pints of cold water, and give a glass-
 ful every two minutes, with as much milk  as  can
 be swallowed, and large doses of ipecacuanha.  If
 after  the  egg  mixture  is all taken, the vomiting
 does not stop, repeat the  dose, with the addition
 of more water.   Leeches, the warm bath, blisters,
 &c.  are to be used to reduce the pain and inflam-
 mation, as before directed.
                   Arsenic.
   Symptoms.—These are the same as produced by
 the mercurial poisons.
   Remedies.—Give large quantities of cold sugar
 and water, until a plentiful vomiting is  induced,
 to assist which, ipecacuanha may  be taken in con-
 siderable doses at the same time;  barley, rice wa-
 ter, flaxseed tea, milk, &c.  should afterwards be
 employed.  Oil is never to be used in this case un-
 til the symptoms have considerably abated, or the
 poison has been ejected.
                    Copper.
   The symptoms occasioned by swallowing verdi-
 gris, are nearly the same as those of the  mercurial
 poisons.   The  great remedy is large quantities of
 sweetened  water.   In addition to this, use all the
 means recommended for corrosive sublimate, &c,
                   Antimony.
   Antimonial Avine, tartar emetic, butter of anjti?
 mony, he.
   Symptoms.—Excessive vomiting, pain and cramp
 iu the  stomach, convulsions, he.
   Remedies.—Encourage  the vomiting  by  sugar
and water, and  if after awhile it does not stop, give
a grain of opium  in a glass  of the sweetened wa-
ter, every fifteen  minutes.  To  relieve the pain,
apply leeches to the stomach, throat, or parts af- I
fected.                                         i
                  Salts ofttn.
   Give as much milk as can be got down, and if it
 is not at hand, use large quantities of cold water
 to induce vomiting.  If the symptoms do not abate,
 pursue the plan directed for acids.
         Salts of bismuth, gold and zinc.
   Pursue the plan recommended for arsenic.
                 Lunar caustic.
  .Dissolve two table-spoonsful of common table
 salt in two pints of water;  a few glasses of this will
 induce vomiting.  If not relieved, drink flaxseed
 tea, apply leeches, he. as  for acids.
                  Salt-petre.
   Pursue the plan recommended for arsenic, omit-
 ting the lime water.
                 Sal ammoniac.
   Symptoms.—Vomiting, pain in the belly, a stiff-
 ness of the Avhole body, convulsions.
   Remedies.—Introduce your finger or a feather
 into the throat to induce vomiting, and give plenty
 of sweetened water.   To  relieve  the convulsions,
 give the tea, laudanum, &c. as for acids, or the lau-
 danum alone, and to ease the pain  in the belly, ap-
 ply leeches, &c.
                Liver of sulphur.
   Symptoms.—They resemble those caused by salt-
 petre.
   Remedies.—Two table-spoonsful of vinegar, in a
 glass  of water,  are  to be  frequently  taken until
 vomiting is brought on, after which, have recourse
 to leeches, blisters, he.
                  Phosphorus.
   The symptoms and remedies are the same as by
 poison from acids.
                 Spanish flies.
   Symptoms.—Great pain in the stomach, with ob
 stinate and painful erections, accompanied by a dif-
 ficulty, or suppression of urine, or if any is pass
 ed, it is bloody, a horror  of swallowing liquids,
 frightful convulsions.
  Remedies.—Make the patient swallow as much
 sweet oil as he can possibly get down.   Milk and
 sugared water are also to be freely used.  In addi-
 tion to the plan recommended for acids, solutions
 of gum  arabic,  or flaxseed tea, are to be injected
 into the bla 'der.  If no vomiting  is induced, put
 him in the warm bath, continue the sweetened wa-
 ter, and rub his thighs and legs with  two ounces
 of warm oil, in which a quarter  of an  ounce  of
 camphor has been dissolved.  Eight or ten grains
 of camphor may be mixed with the yolk of an egg
 and taken internally.  If there is acute pain in the
 bladder, apply leeches over it.
                Powdered glass.
  Stuff the patient with thick rice pudding, bread,
 potatoes, or any other vegetable, then  give him
 five grains of tartar emetic to vomit him, after
 which, use milk freely, clysters and fomentations
 to the belly, with the warm bath;  leeches, &c. are
 not to be neglected.
                    Lead.
  Sugar  of lead, extract of  saturn, white lead,
 litharge, minium..
   Symptoms.—A sweet astringent  taste  in the-
 mouth, constriction of the throat,  pain jn the sto-
 mach, bloody vomiting,  he.
  Remedies.—Dissolve a handful  of Epsom  on
 Glauber  salts in a pint, of water, and  give it at
 once;  when  it has vomited him, use  sweetened
 water.   If the symptoms continue, act as directed]
 for acids.
              Opium-or laudanum.
  Symptoms.—Stupor, an insurmountable inclina-
tion to sleep, delirium, convulsions, 8tc.
  Remedies.—Endeavour to excite vomiting by six
grains of tartar emetic,, or four grains of blue, or-
thirty of white vitriol.. ' TJirust a feather down the 
230
UNIVERSAL
RECEIPT BOOK.
throat for the same purpose.  Never give vinegar
or other acids, until the poison  is altogether or
nearly evacuated.  After this has taken place, a
wine-glassful of lemon juice and water may be
taken every five minutes, along with a cup of very
strong coffee.   The coffee, he. are to be continued
until the droAvsiness  is gone off, which, if it con-
tinues, and resembles that of apoplexy, must be
relieved by bleeding.   The patient is to be forci-
bly kept in constant motion.
                 Mushrooms.
  Remedies.—Give the patient immediately three
grains  of tartar emetic, twenty-five or thirty of
ipecacuanha,  and an  ounce of salts, dissolved  in a |
glass of water,  one third to be taken every fifteen
minutes, until he vomits freely.   Then purge with
castor oil.  If there is great pain in the belly, ap-
ply leeches, blisters, &c.
 Tobacco, hemlock, nightshade, spurred rye, cifc.
  Remedies.—An  emetic as directed for opium.
If the poison has been swallowed sometime, purge
with castor oil.  After vomiting and purging, if
the patient seems drowsy, bleed  him, and give
vinegar and water.
                Poisonous fish.
  Remedies.—An  emetic.  If it has been eaten
some time, g'lA'e castor oil by the mouth and clys-
ter.  After these have operated, twenty drops of
ether  may be taken  on a lump of sugar;  vinegar
and water as before mentioned.
          Foreign bodies in the throat.
  Persons are frequently in danger of suffocation
from  fish bones, pins, &c.  which  stick in the
throat.  The moment an accident of this kind oc-
curs, desire the patient to be perfectly still, open
his mouth, and look into it.  If you can see the
pbstruction, endeavour to seize it with your finger
vm\ thumb, or a long slender pair of pincers.   1? it
cannot be got up, or is not  of a nature to do any
injury in the stomach, push it down with  the han>-
die of a spoon, or a flexible round piece of whale-
bone, the end of which  is neatly covered with a
roll of linen, or any thing that may be at hand.  If
you can neither get  it up nor  down, place 6 grains
if tartar emetic in the patient's mouth.  As it dis-
solves, it wiil  make him excessively sick, and in
consequence of the  relaxation, the  bone,  or what-
ever it  may be, will descend into the stomach or
be ejected from the  mouth.
  If a  pin,  button, or other metallic or pointed
body has been swallowed (or  pushed into the sto-
mach) make the patient eat  plentifully of thick rice
pudding, and endeavour to prevent him from going
to stool for at least twelve hours.
              Of burns and scalds.
  There are three kinds of remedies employed in
accidents of  this nature.   Cooling  applications,
such as  pounded ice, snow, vinegar, cold  water,
lead water, he.  Stimulants,  as warm spirits of
turpentine, brandy,  or any  ardent  spirits,  and
carded or raw cotton.
  Any one of these  articles  that happens  to be
nearest at hand, may be tried, although the prefer-
ence is due to the turpentine or spirits, which being
made as  hot as the patient can  bear it, is to be ap-
plied to all the burned surface  (so  as not to touch
the adjoining sound skin) until  some common ba-
silicon ointment can be thinned with spirits of tur-
pentine to the consistence of cream, in which  state
it is to be spread on a linen rag and laid over the
part, taking care, as before, not to  let it touch the i
sound skin.
  If, however, (the rule is general) this plan causes
great pain and inflammation, it must be abandoned,
and one of the others be resorted to, as the pounded |
ice, which  can be readily applied in a bladder
Equal  parts of lime  water and linseed oil, well
mixed, forms one of the most soothing of all appli-
cations.  Should much fever prevail, it is to be re-
duced by bleeding, purging, he. but if on the con-
trary the system seems  to sink,  wine,  bark, he.
must be employed.
                Of mortification.
  From what has already been stated, it is evident
that in treating wounds, &c.  as  well  as  diseases,
oneg_-rat and important indication is to repress ex-
cessive inflammation, which, if allowed to proceed
to a certain  point, sometimes  produces mortifica-
tion or the death of the parts.
  Whenever, therefore, from the violence  of the
fever, heat,  pain,  redness, and  swelling, you are
fearful of its ending in this way,  bleed, purge, kc.
to as great an extent as the patient  can bear.  If,
however, the fever and pain suddenly cease, if the
part which before was red, SAVollen, and hard, be-
comes purple and soft, abandon at once all  reduc-
ing measures, lay a blister over the whole of the
parts, and give  wine, porter, bark,  &c. freely and
without delay.   If the blisters do not put a stop to
the disease,  and  the parts become dead and offen-
sive, cover them witn the charcoal  or fermenting
poultice until nature separates the dead parts from
the living, during which process, a  gene-ous  diet,
bark,  he. must be allowed.
  There is a particular kind of mortification which
comes of itself, or without any apparent cause,  ft
attacks the  small  toes  of old people,  and com-
mences  in  a small bluish or black  spot,  which
spreads to different parts of the foot.  To remedy
it, place a blister over the spot, and give two grains
of opium night and morning, taking care to keep
the  bowels open  by  castor oil, and to diminish the
quantity of  opium if it  occasions any unpleasant
effects.
  In extensive mortifications of  the fore-arm, it is
necessary  to amputate.   This,  hoAvever,  snould
never  be done,  until by  the  repeated application
of blisters to the sound  parts adjoining the morti-
fied ones, they are disposed to separate, which may
be easily known  by inspection.
            Directions for bleeding.
  Tie up the arm, placing the bandage a*, least two
inches above the projection  of the  elbow joint,
and then  feel for the pulse  at the wrist.  If it is
stopped, the bandage is too tight, and must be re-
laxed.   Select  the most prominent vein, and feel
with the tip of your finger if an artery lies near it
If you feel one  pulsating so close to  the'vein that
you are fearful of  wounding it, choose another.
Having set your lancet, (I allude, of course, to the
spring  lancet, the only one that can  be used with
safety,) bend the arm in the precise position it is to
be  kept in while the blood flows.   The cutting
edge of the lancet is now to be placed ct: '..he vein,
while you depress  the handle  or frame just as
much as you wish the cut to be deep; by touching
the spring on the side with your thumb, the busi-
ness is done.  To stop the bleeding, relax the ban-
dage, press the two edges of the wound together,
place  a little compress of linen on it, and biod up
the whole Avith a bandage passing round Ihe joint in
a figure of eight.

       Directions for passing the catheter.
  Take the penis of the patient near its head  be-
tween  the finger and thumb of your  left  hand,
(standing  beside him) while, with your right,  you
introduce the point  of the instrument into the  uri-
nary passage,  its convex 3ide towarus his  knees;
while you push the  catheter down the urethra, en- 
deavour, at the same time, to draw up the penis on
it.  When you first introduce it, the handle will of
course be  near  the belly of the patient, and as it
descends will be thrown further from it,  until it
enters the bladder, which  will be  known by  the
flow of the urine.  If you cannot succeed while the
patient is on his back, make him stand up, or place
him with his  shoulders and back on the ground,
while his thighs and legs are held up by assistants.
If still foiled, place  him again on  his back, and
when  you have got the catheter as far down as it
will go,  introduce the forefinger, well oiled, into
the fundament,  and endeavour to  push its point
upwards, while you still press it forward with  the
other  hand.   Force is never, on any account, to be
used.   Vary your position as often as  you please,
let the patient try it himself, but always remember
it  is  by  humouring the  instrument,  and not by
violence, that you can succeed.
         Directions for passing bougies.
  Take the penis between your finger and thumb,
and pass the point of the instrument, (which should
be well oiled) down the urethra as directed for the
catheter; when it has entered three or four inches,
depress the penis a little, and by humouring the
bougie with one hand, and the penis with the other,
endeavour to  pass it as far as may be  wished.  The
patient himself will frequently succeed, when every
one else fails.
       MISCELLANEOUS  ARTICLES.

      To diminish inordinate inflammation.
  Mix 1  drachm of Goulard's extract of lead, or
solution of sugar of lead in water, with 4 oz. of
rectified  spirit, and 6 oz. of distilled water. Make
a lotion,  which is to be applied to those surfaces
where inflammation is very rapid.
  Another  method.—Dissolve 2 drachms  of sul-
phate of  zinc (white vitriol) in a  pint of distilled
water.  To be applied as above.
           Marsh-mallow fomentation.
  Boil together for a quarter of an hour, an ounce
of dried  marsh-mallow root, with $ an oz. of cha-
momile flowers in a pint of water; strain through a
cloth.  The fomenting flannels should  be sprink-
led with  spirits, just before they are applied to the
inflamed  part.
            Fomentation of poppies.
  Bruise 4 ounces of dried poppy heads, and then
boil them  in 6 pints of water, until a quart  only
remains after straining. This fomentation is to be
applied to  inflamed parts, where there is much
pain, but which are required  to suppurate,
               Refrigerant lotion.
  Mix together equal parts of acetated water of am-
monia and  tincture of camphor; which apply to the
inflamed  joint or other part.
  Another.—Dissolve an ounce of muriate of am-
monia in 4  ounces of common vinegar, and add 10
ounces of water, to be applied with or without a
cloth to inflamed surfaces.
  Another.—Mix together 2 ounces of rectified
spirit, and  5 ounces of acetated water of ammonia.
                Sedative lotion.
  Dissolve half a drachm of sugar of lead in 4 oz.
of distilled vinegar, aBd then add an ounce of com-
mon  spirits with a pint of water.   Linen cloths
dipped in this lotion are to be applied to inflamed
joints, he.
          Cold and sedative cataplasm.
  Take of goqlard  water a drachm and a half, rec-
 jfied spirit 2 ounces,  water a pint: These are  to
, e mixed with a sufficient quantity of the crumb of
CINE.                                    231

 a new loaf, so as to form a cataplasm, to be applied
 at night to inflamed parts.
  Another.—Mix with crumb of bread as above, 1
 drachm of goulard water (or solution of sugar of
 lead) and a pint  of common water that has been
 boiled.
        Cataplasm to hasten suppuration.
  Make 2 parts  of finely-powdered  bran, and 1
 part of linseed meal, into  a poultice, with boiling
 water.  A little oil should  be spread over the sur-
 face, just before it is applied.
  Another.—Take of crumb of bread and linseed
 meal, equal parts. Make thein into a poultice wilh
 boiling milk.
               Linseed cataplasm.
  Stir linseed flour into boiling water, in sufficient
 quantity to form a cataplasm of proper consistency,
 and before application, smear the surface with a
 little olive or linseed oil.   If irritation, with great
 pain and  tension, or hardness, should prevail, it
 will be necessary to substitute a decoction of pop-
 py  heads for the common water.   This poultice
 is in general use  in all tne  hospitals.
            Embrocation for sprains.
  Shake in a phial, until  they become white like
 milk,  10 drachms of olive  oil, with 2 drachms of
 spirit of hartshorn (water of ammonia); then add 4
 drachms of  oil  oi turpentine.  When  properly
 mixed, they may be directly used as  an embroca-
 tion for sprains and bruises.
  Where weakness remains in  consequence of a
 sprain, cold water ought to be pumped on it every
 morning; and a long calico roller should  be bound
 firmly (but not too tight) round it immediately af-
 ter.  By these means, strength will  soon be re-
 stored.
  Another.—Digest 15 ounces of white hard soap
 scraped with a  knife, in 4  pints of spirit of wine,
 and 1 pint of water of ammonia, or hartshorn (li
 quor ammonia;),  previously mixed  in a  large bot-
 tle.   When  dissolved, add 5  oz.  of  camphor.
 When this last is entirely dissolved, the embroca-
 tion is fit for use.
  This elegant and  powerful stimulant was  se-
 lected from the Pharmacopoeia of the Middlesex
 Hospital:—for  private use, the above quantities of
 the ingredients are to be reduced in proportion to
 each other, according to the quantity likely to be
 used in a family. If one-third  only is required,
 use 5 oz. of soap, 1 of camphor,  16 oz. of spirit of
 wine, and 4 oz. of water of ammonia.
             Application  of leeches.
  In the applying of leeches to the human body,
 success is rendered more certain by prev'ously dry-
 ing them, or allowing them to creep over a  dry
 cloth.   To attract them, the part should be moist-
 ened with cream, sugar,  or blood, and if  this
 should be insufficient, the  leech  may be cooled by
 touching it with a cloth dipped in cold water.  The
 escape of leeches from the  part is to be prevented
 by covering them with a wineglass or tumbler.
               Burns and scalds.
  Mr Cleghorn, a breAver in Edinburgh,  has treat-
 ed  burns and scalds with success, by  applying, in
 the first place, vinegar, until the pain abates;  se-
 condly, an emollient poultice; and thirdly, as soon
 as any secretion of matter or watery fluid appears,
 by  covering the sore with powdered chalk.
             Liniment for the same.
  Take of linseed or  olive oil, lime  water, each
 equal  parts,  or 3 ounces,  by measure; mix,  by
 shaking them together.  This liniment is extreme-
 ly useful in cases of scalds or burns, being singu-
 larly efficacious in preventing, if applied in time,
 the. inflammation subsequent to these; or even in
 removing it after it has come on. 
232
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
   Another.—Lime water with linseed oil has often
 been used, as a liniment, in  the proportion of an
 ounce and a  half of the  latter, to  3 ounoes of the
 former.   This is a very excellent application.
   Another.—Many medical men are partial to the
 use of lime water and common spirits  immediately
 after the accident, in proportion of 3 ounces of the
 latter to  6 ounces of the former.  This  mixture
 should  be applied  cold, and the parts kept con-
 stantly covered with fine linen cloth dipped in it.
   Another.—Raw potatoes, scraped or grated, may
 be advantageously  applied to recent burns  and
 scalds, if nothing belter can conveniently be had,
 But, perhaps, the  best  application,  immediately
 after the accident, is common spirits united'with a
 solution of sugar of lead, (liquor acetatis plumbi,)
 in the proportion of 12  ounces of the latter to 4
 ounces of the former.
   Another.—Apply oatmeal and oold water to the
 part affected  immediately after the accident; keep
 it on as a poultice all night;  next morning,  if not
 serious,  it will be  quite well, neither blister  nor
 wounds appearing.
   In  all cases of burns and scalds, it  is necessary
 to observe, that if fever should ensue, gently laxa-
 tive  medicines ought to be administered.  The best
 are castor oil and Epsom salts.
   If the injury arising from the scald or burn  be
 very  severe,  suppuration  should be promoted  by
 fomentations and em dlient cataplasms.  The de-
 formity or constriction  of muscles and tendons,
 which arises  from burns  and scalds, is to be  ob-
 viated as much as possible by bandage and posi-
 tion.   Particular attention must be paid to posi-
 tion  where joints are coucerned, and  in burns in
 the neck.  In all, the limbs should be as much as
 possible in their natural  situation of rest; but the
 head, in particular,  should be kept in  a proper po-
 sition.
          Extensive burns and scalds.
   In  several  bad cases of burns and scalds, the to-
 pical application  of  well  carded cotton wool has
 succeeded in effecting a cure in a feAV days.   For
 this  discovery we are  indebted to chance:—The
 child of a negro in the West Indies, in consequence
 of falling into  boiling water, was most dreadfully
 scalded; the  mother, being ignorant of any  mode
 of treatment, immediately laid the child on the cot-
 ton wool she  had been carding, and covered it over
 with  it.   The cotton wool adhered closely to the
 injured par's, aud being caked by the discharge,
 completely defended the surface from the action
 of the atmosphere,   ln'the course of a few days
 the whole celed off with the injured skin, leaving
 a healthy surface covered with a new cuticle. The
 same treatment has  been  adopted in Scotland, and
 elsewhere, in several bad cases of burns and scalds,
 with similar  happy results.   When the discharge
 exudes through the first  layer, more  cotton must
 be added to absorb it. In order that it may adhere
 to the injured part, the surface should be moisten-
 ed with oil.
              Cataplasmfor ulcers.
   Boil any quantity of fresh carrots until they are
 sufficiently soft to be beaten up into a smooth, pulp.
 This  cataplasm is equally beneficial in the cure of
cancerous, as well as scorbutic ulcers.   Tl;e latter
are known by a brown colour, the discharge being
thin  and corroding, whilst die fungous excrescen-
ces which shoot out, bleed on the slightest touch.
The  ulcer is  surrounded by a livid ring, or areola,
in which small spots are frequently observed. The
former are known by their very irregular surface,
from  several  parts of which blood  exudes.  They
are attended  by shooting  pains, and have a fetid
discharge.
  Another,—Boil any quantity of the bottom leaves
 of the common meadow sorrel, until they are suf-
 ficiently soft, then beat them  into a smooth pulp,
 which is to be applied as a cataplasm to  ulcers of
 the above mentioned nature.
   Another.—Poultices of the pulp of apples have
 been successfuly employed on  the oontinent  for
 these ulcers.  They are made by mixing 2 ounces
 of the pulp of boiled apples with the same weight
 of the crumb of bread.
           Lotion for scorbutic ulcers.
   Mix from 1 to 2 drachms ot muriatic acid (spirit
 of salt) with a pint of water.  This lotion is very
 useful in cleansing and stimulating the above men-
 tioned ulcers.
   Another.—Make a lotion by dissolving half an
 ounce of nitrate of potass (salt-petre) in half a pint
 of common vinegar; with Avhich cleanse the ulcers
 in question.
           Lotion for cancerous ulcers.
   Mix together an ounce and  a half of the tincture
 of muriate of iron, with seven ounces of distilled
 water.   Apply as a lotion.
 Contagious ulcer, peculiar to  soldiers and seamen.
   This ulcer generates a poison  capable of con-
 verting other healthy ulcers into  its own nature.
 It generally  appears on the inner side of the leg,
 near the ankle.   It exhales a putrid smell, whilst
 a thin acrimonious humour is discharged, which
 excoriates the neighbouring parts; and fungous ex-
 crescences frequently shoot  out.   The  limb be-
 comes much swelled and very painful, whilst the
 sore bleeds on the slightest touch.   If not checked,
 the most fatal consequences are to be apprehended.
   Treatment.—The folloAving remedies have been
 found most efficacious, viz. the  carrot and yeast
 poultice as mentioned before; a  lotion of tincture
 of myrrh, 1  ounce; with 7 ounces of decoction of
 bark, in equal parts;  1 scruple of sulphate of cop-
 per, or blue vitriol, in solution with distilled wa-
 ter, or with 8 ounces  of lime water; camphorated
 spirit of wine; camphorated vinegar; the  cold salt-
 water  bath;  and  the  application of the  juice  of
 limes.   If  the sores remain irritable and painful,
 the hemlock and poppy fomentations  are to be
 used; accompanied with the internal administra-
 tion of peruvian bark, and other tonic remedies.
       Ulcers and sore legs of poor people.
  The  lotion  made  according  to the  following
 recipe,  has been found very  beneficial in cases of
 foul ulcers and sore legs  of poor  people.  It has
 also succeeded (applied warm)  in  curing a fistu-
 lous ulcer: Take of green vitriol, £ oz. alum, ^ oz.
 verdigris, -J dr. crude sal ammoniac, 2 scruples.
  After reducing them to  powder, put them into a
 new glazed pipkin, holding about a quart.   Set it
 upon a slow fire, and  increase by degrees till the
 ingredients boil up to the  top two or three times.
 Then  take  it from  the  fire and  set it to cool.
 Break the pipkin to get the stone out.  Stir them
 round all the time they are on the fire with a lath.
 The dust and the smoke should not come near the
 eyes,  nose, or mouth.  Put a piece of the stone,
 the size of a  walnut, to a quart bottle of soft water.
 To use,  shake the bottle  and wet a piece of fine
 linen, four times doubled.   Lay it upon a  new burn
 or old ulcer.  The linen should always be  kept
 wet with it,,  [For this receipt the late emperor of
 France  gave  10,000 fouis-d'ors, after it had beet*
 approved; of in, his hospitals.]
                  Mult poultice.
  Mix as muph ground malt with  half a pint  of
 veast  as will make a cataplasm 0f moderate  con-
 sistence.   This ppultice is gently stimulating, andi
 very serviceable  in destroying the fetid  and disa-
greeable  smell wbich;arises from foul ulcers and!
gangrenous wounds.
  Another.-r\ similar- pop}tice, and tor  the samt 
MEDICINE.
233
purpose, Is prepared by stirring into an infusion of
malt, as much oatmeal as may be required to make
it  of a  proper thickness, and afterwards adding
about a spoonful of yeast.
              Strong beer poultice.
   Stir kito half a pint of ale, or strong beer-grounds,
as much oatmeal or linseed-meal,  as will make a
cataplasm of proper  thickness.  This will prove
an excellent stimulant and antiseptic for foul ul-
cers.  It  should be applied as warm as the parts
will bear, and should  be renewed every six hours.
                 Yeast poultice.
   Mix well together 1 pound of linseed-meal, and
a pint of ale yeast.   Expose this  cataplasm to a
gentle heat, until a certain degree of fermentation
takes place.  This poultice is excellent for stimu-
lating and cleansing foul ulcers.
               Charcoal poultice.
   lu|a pound of the common oatmeal cataplasm,
add two  ounces  of fresh burnt charcoal finely
pounded and sifted.   Mix the whole well together,
and apply it to foul ulcers a id venereal sores: the
fetid smell and unhealthy ap^K^rance of which it
speedily destroys.
             Treatment of whitlow.
   This is a small tumour'which appears under, or
around the finger nail; it is attended with redness
and pain,  and very quickly advances  to suppura-
tion.  After thj abscess is evacuated of the w!iite
matter contained in it, it very soon heals of itself.
The  loss of  the  nail, however,  is  sometimes,
through improper management,  the consequence
of the disease.
  In order to check the inflammation in  the first
instance,  and thereby at once  stop the disease, it
will be  proper frequently to  apply the following
lotion, that is, until the pain and heat are abated:
Dissolve one ounce of sal ammoniac in two ounces
of common vinegar; adding one of rectified spirit,
and twelve ounces of distilled water.
  Another application.—It sometimes happens that
the ulcer, which remains after the discharge of the
matter,  is very indolent and difficult to heal.  In
such a case the following application will be of
great service: Rub ^ an  ounce of camphor, in a
mortar, Avith an ounce of olive  oil.   Now melt
over a gentle fire,  8 oz. of olive oil, with 4 oz. of
yellow wa", and stir in it ^ an ounce of a solution
of sugar of lead (liquor  plumbi acetatis); when
this mixture is cold, pour the camphor and oi!, in
the mortar, into it,  taking care  to stir the whole
well until quite cold.  If suppuration  should en-
sue, marked by a white prominent spot, an open-
ing should immediately be made, that the matter
may escape.
     Wlutlow at the extremity of the finger.
   This  kind of whitlow being more deeply seated
than that of the nail, is more severe, and is attend-
ed by throbbing and acute pain.   The matter, like-
wise, often insinuates itself beneath the nail.   To
prevent suppuration it will be proper to  keep the
linger immersed  for a long time in warm water,
and to apply the lotion, recommended for the same
purpose in common whitlow.   If these fail in ef-
fecting a resolution of the tumour, an early and
■ree incision should be made through the integu-
ments,  and carried to the bottom cf the  diseased
part; after which the blood may be allowed to flow
"br some time: the opening is  to be treated after-
yards as a common wound, viz. by the application
»f adhesive plaster.
  Another remedy.—Dr  Balfour,  of Edinburgh,
has found the application of pressure in incipient
cases of whitlow to succeed in preventing the for-
mation of matter, and  speedily to cure the disease.
He applies compression with the hand in a degree
which the patient can easily bear, with the view of
      2 E
preventing extensive suppuration, and then a nar-
row fillet.  This operation, in severe cases, is re-
peated three or  four times  in the course of two
days, when the pain and swelling disappear,  leav-
ing a single speck of pus at the point of the thumb,
immediately under the skin.  If vent be given to
this by the slightest touch of tlie lancet, the wound
will heal up immediately.
                 White swelling.
  Dr Kirkland  recommends a volatile plaster  for
this disease,  made after the following manner:
Melt together in an iron ladle, or earthen pipkin,
2 oz. of  soap  and $  an oz. of litharge plaster.
When nearly cold, stir in 1 drachm of sal  ammo-
niac in fine powder: spread upon leather, and ap
ply to the joint  as above.
  If the above method  fails, and ulceration takes
place, a surgeon should be applied to without delay.
  Ointment for  chaps and eruptions of the skin.
  Simmer ox marrow over the fire, and afterwards
strain it through a piece of muslin into gallipots.
When cold, rub the part affected.
                  Ringworm.
  Mr T. G. Graham, ofCheltenham, recommends
the lime water which has been used for purifying
gas, as  a very efficacious  remedy in  the  above
troublesome  disease.   The head  is to be well
cleansed, morning and evening, with soap and wa-
ter, and  afterwards washed with the lime water
from the gas works.  The above lime water is a
A-ery heterogeneous compound, so that it is impos-
sible  to  say which of its ingredients is effectual.
It contains lime, ammonia, sulphuretted hydrogen,
volatile oil, and probably several other compounds
of a more complex nature.
                  Scald head.
  Take of sulphur, 1 oz.; lard, 1 do.;  sal ammo-
niac, 2 drachms:  Mix for an ointment, to be rub-
bed upon the part affected two or three times a day.
    Ointment for scald head, ring worm, &c.
  The following  ointment  for scald head,  ring-
worm, and  tetters, has  uniformly succeeded  in
speedily effecting a cure.
  Take of sub-acetate of copper (in very fine pow-
der), half a drachm; prepared calomel, 1 drachm;
fresh  spermaceti  ointment, 1 oz.   Mix well  to-
gether. To be rubbed over the parts affected every
night  and morning.  This ointment is also very
efficacious in cases of foul and languid ulcers.
               Lotion for leprosy.
  Wash the parts affected every  morning and eve-
ning with the following composition:  Take of oxy-
muriate of mercury, 4 grains; pure pyroligneous
acid, 1 oz.; distilled  water, 7 do.  Mix.
         Leprous affections of the skin.
  Dr Hufeland  praises the excellent effects of  the
oil of the walnut kernel in leprous and other cuta-
neous complaints.  It is one of the safest, simplest,
and most efficacious external  remedies  that can be
employed, as it mitigates the pains, and that burn-
ing sensation,  sometimes  almost  insupportable,
which accompany these obstinate diseases; irfnever
seems to have any ill effect, if attention be given to
the eruption  suddenly  disappearing, or diving, as
it is said,  by repulsion—a circumstance which fre-
quently happens  by  the application of metallic
ointments, and which is often attended with much
danger to the constitution; although it  cures the
cutaneous affection in  a short time, it is not fol-
lowed by any bad consequences, provided the erup-
tion does not originate in any obstinate internal or
general disease.  In  a  child, which was almost
covered with chronic  and  suppurating pimples,
against which internal  remedies, baths, and  mer-
curial ointments, had been employed, without pro-
ducing a perfect cure, the oil of walnut kernel was
used with complete success.   It is likewise an ex- 
234
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
 cellent remedy in small cutaneous eruptions that
 are now and then observed in children.  The oil
 ought to be fresh, expressed without heat, and ap-
 plied to the affected places tivice or thrice a day.
                  Itch ointment.
   Take of powdered white hellebore, 2 drachms;
 flowers of sulphur, 1 oz.; essence of lemon, 1 oz.;
 hogs' lard, 2 "z.  Make it into an ointment. Smear
 all the joints for three nights with this, wash it off
 in the morning with soap and water.   Repeat the
 smearing three limes at the interval of two days, |
 and the most  inveterate  itch  is certain to disap-
, pear.  It will be well, at the same time, to  take,
 right and morning, a tea-spoonful of an electuary j
 of flowers of sulphur, mixed with honey or treacle.
              7 o remove clulblains.
   Take an ounce of white copperas, dissolved in a
 quart of Avater, and occasionally apply it to the af-
 fected parts.   This  will  ultimately  remove the
 most obstinate  blains.—N. B.  This  application
 must be used  before  they break, otherwise it will
 do injury.
   Another method.—Take a piece of fresh wood of
 the fir, made  flat and smooth, and hold it to the
 fire till it becomes moderately  warm, and  all the
 turpentine begins to exude; then place the part af-
 fected upon this board, and keep it there as  long
 as it can be  well  borne; after which,  let the part
 be washed with warm water, wrapped up  in  flan-
 nel, and kept  free from cold.   This application is
 improper if the  chilblain  be broken,  but. if ap-
 plied before it has arrived at that stage, it has never
 failed in removing the complaint after two or three
 applications.
   Another.—Crude sal ammoniac, 1 oz.; vinegar,
 half a pint; dissolve, and bathe the part, if not yet
 broken, two or three times a day.  If sal ammo-
 niac is not at hand, alum or common salt will do,
 but not  so  effectually.  If the chilblains are of
 very long continuance, and  obstinate, touch them
 with equal parts of liquid  opodeldoc (Hnimentum
 saponis), and tincture ofSpanish flies, or rather less
 of the latter.  If the chilblains break, poultice or
 dress them with  basilicon,  and add turpentine if
 necessary.
   Another.—The following ointment for this an-
 noying disease,  has been attended with the  most
 beneficial effect:  Take of citron ointment, 1 oz.;
 oil of turpentine, 2 drachms; olive oil,  4 do.  Mix.
 To be well rubbed over the parts affected every
 night and morning.
   Another.—The following  has  also been found
 very beneficial  in the cure  of  chilblains, both in
 the incipient or  inflammatory  stage, or when ad-
 vanced to ulceration.   When in the former state,
 the part should  be well rubbed  over with  it by
 means ofa warm hand, and afterwards kept covered
 with soft thin leather.  When ulcerated, it should
 be applied on  lint,  sufficiently large to cover the
 surrounding inflammation.  Take  of  spermaceti
 ointment, 6 drachms; prepared  calomel, 2 scru-
 ples; rectified oil of turpentine, 1 drachm.  Mix.
              Treatment of corns.
   When small in size,  they are to  be removed
 either  by stimulants or escharotics, as the appli-
 cation of nitrate of silver (lunar caustic), merely by
 wetting the corn, and touching it with a pencil of
 the causlic,  every evening.   Previous to this, the
 skin may be softened by immersion of the  feet in
 warm Avater.
   Another mode.—Rub together, in a mortar, 2 oz.
 of powder of savine  leaves, ^ au  oz. of verdigris,
 and $ an oz. of red precipitate, or nitric oxide of
 mercury.  Put some of i his powder in a linen rag,
 and apply it to the corn at bed-time.
   Removal by cutting, &c.—If the  corn has at-
 tfeihcd a large  size, removal by cutting, or by  liga-
 ture, will be  proper;  if it hangs by a small neck,
 the latter method is preferable. It is done by tying
 a silk thread round the corn,  and on its removal
 next day, tying another still tighter, and so on till
 completely removed.   When the base is broad,  a
 cautious dissection of the corn from the surround-
 ing  parts, by  means of a sharp knife, or razor, is
 necessary.  This is done by paring gently, until
 the  whole is  removed.  In all  cases  of cutting
 corns, th-i feet ought to be previously  washed, as
 in case of making a wound in the toe, great danger
 may result from want of cleanliness in this respect.
 Mortification has in some instances been the effect
 of such neglect.
                Prevention, iic.
  Corns should be secured from pressure by means
 of a thick adhesive plaster, in the centre of which
 a hole has been made for the reception of the project-
 ing part.   This, with frequent immersion in water,
 and occasional paring, has often  been found to re-
 move them, and always prevents their enlargement.
 An effectual modeot extirpation is by the applica-
 tion of a small blister;  the effect of which will  be,
 generally, to raise them, with the skin, out of their
 bed.   When rest from labour can be obtained, this
 is an excellent method.   Dress the  blister (which
 need not exceed the size ofa sih'er sixpence) with
 hogs'lard, or simple wax ointment.
               1 o remove warts.
  Nitrate of silver (lunar caustic) cures those trou-
 blesome excrescences, called warts, in an extreme-
 ly  simple and harmless manner.
  The method of using it is, to dip the end of the
 caustic in a little  water, and  to rub  it over  the
 warts.   In the course ofa few times, by so doing,
they  will be  gone.  The muriate of  ammonia (sal
ammoniac) is likewise a very useful remedy.  " Out
of twenty years' practice," says a medical corres-
pondent in the  Monthly Magazine, " I never knew
the above remedies to fail."
           Ward's paste for the piles.
  Pulverize  finely,  in an iron mortar, 1 oz. of
black pepper, 1 oz. of elecampane-root,  and 3 oz.
of fennel seed, and n..x them intimately together.
 Now melt together, over a clear fire, 2 oz. of sugar
and 2 oz. of clarified honey, so as to form a  clear
 syrup, which add to the mixed  powder in the mor-
tar, and heat the whole into a mass of uniform con-
 sistence.   This medicine is to  be taken, when  the
irritation of piles runs so high as to threaten fistu-
la. The dose is a piece of the size ofa nutmeg, to
be taken three times a day;  this is  to be washed
 down by a glass of cold water,  or white wine.
         Extraneous bodies in the ear.
  These are to be extracted by  means of a  small
forceps, or by s ringing the ear with  warm or tepid
 water.  But should such means  prove unsuccess-
ful, they may be suffered to  remain without dan-
ger, if they do  not produce pain, as in a  very short
time they  will  be forced out by  the accumulating
wax.  Insects may be killed by filling the ear with
oil, and  afterwards removed  by syringing  with
 warm water.
 To check hemorrhage consequent on tlie extraction
                   of teeth.
 Mr Cullen, of Sheerness, recommends the follow-
ing method for the treatment of the above frequent
and sometimes serious accident:—" Take a small,
fine,  vial  cork, of a  size adapted  to the socket
 whence the tooth  has been extracted and the he-
 morrhage  proceeds; then, with a small dossil of
lint,  wet with aqua sty plica, solution of sugar of
 lead,  and put on the smallest end of the cork, push
 the cork into the bleeding orifice, pressing it firm-
 ly  in, till  it  be, as it were, wedged  in the socket;
 and keep it there as long as may be  necessary, de-
 siring the patient to press against it with the teeth 
of the opposite jaw till  the  bleeding be stopped,
which it is almost instantly.  This acts as a tour-
niquet, and gives time to use whatever other means
may be  deemed requisite; but itis seldom that any
thing else is required."
        Remedies for diseases of the teeth.
  If hollow or decayed, apily compound tincture
of benjamin, or some essential oil, on cotton, to
the part;  or  pills with camphor  and  opium;  or
chew the roots of pellitory of Spain.   Some burn
the nerve with vitriolic or nitrous acid, or a hot
iron.—Medical Pocket  Book.
             Collyria, or eye-waters.
  Take of extract of iead, 10 drops, rose-water, 6
oz.  Mix, and wash the  eyes  night  and  morn-
ing.
  Another.—Take  of extract  of lead,  10 drops,
spirit of camphor, 20  drops, rose-water,  half a
pint.  Mix.  This eye Avater is extremely useful
in ophthalmia, attended with much inflammation.
  Another.—Tane of opium, 10 grains, camphor,
6 grains, boiling water,  12 oz.; rub the opium and
camphor wilh the boiling water, and strain.   This
collyrium abates the pain  and irritation attendant
on severe  cases of inflammation of the eyes.
  Another.—Take of white  vitriol, ^ drachm, spi-
rits of camphor, 1 drachm, warm water,  2 oz.
rose-water, 4 oz.  Dissolve the vitriol in the warm
water, and add the spirit of camphor  and  rose-
water.  This is a useful collyrium in  the chronic
state  of ophthalmia, or what  is  generally called
weakness of the eyes, after inflammation.
  Another.—Dissolve 10 grains of soft extract  of
opium in  6  oz. of warm distilled water; strain
through fine linen, and then add 2 oz. of liquor of
acetate of ammonia.  Where the pain is  great, this
collyrium will be productive of great relief.
  Another.—Make  a lotion for the inflamed eyes
with 20 drops of tincture of  camphor, 10 drops  of
solution of sugar  of lead, 1  of Goulard's extract,
and 7 oz. of  distilled water.  If the pain is very
distressing, a drop of the vinous tincture of opium
may be conveyed twice a  day into the eye, by
means ofa feather.   This is an effectual means  of
obtaining relief.
  Another.—Mix together one ounce of the liquor
of acetate  of ammonia, and 7 oz. of distilled  rose-
water.
  Another.—When the  eye is merely weak, fre-
pient ablution with cold water, either  in a  basin
>r by means of an eye-cup, of green glass, will  be
»f great use.   At night a very cooling  cataplasm,
»r poultice, may be made  of crumb of bread soak-
ed in a pint  and a half  of cold water, in which a
drachm of alum  has previously  been  dissolved.
This  is  to be applied aver the eyes in  a handker-
chief when going to bed.
        For inflammation of the eye-lids.
  The following ointment has been found exceed-
ingly ber.eficial in  inflammations of the eye-ball
and edges of the eye*-lids, which are become v^ry
prevalent  in  the  metropolis.  Take of prepared
calomel, 1 scruple, spermaceti ointment, \ oz.
Mix them well together in a glass mortar; apply a
small quantity  to each corner  of the eye, every
night and morning, and also to the edges of the
lids, if they are affected.  If this should not even-
tually remove the inflammation, the folloAving lo-
tion may be applied three or four times a day,  by
means of an eye-cup. The  bowels should be kept
in a laxative state, by taking occasionally a £ of an
oz. of the Cheltenham or Epsom salts.
        Lotion to be used at  the same time.
  Take of  acetated zinc,  6 grains,  rose-water,
(fresh) 6 oz. Mix. Before the oiutment is applied to
the corners of the eyes, wash them with this lotion.
These remedies have uniformly succeeded in every
:iNE.                                       235

  case of inflammation of the eyes to which they have
  been  applied.
                Treatment of styes.
    These are small abscesses seated in the edge of
  the eyelid, and produced from the obstruction ot
  very minute glands.  They  are often attended with
  much heat and pain, and always with great incon
I  venience.  If they do not suppurate  quickly,  a
  small poultice of bread and milk  is to be applied
  warm.   When the matter is formed, an opening
  should be made with the point of  a lancet,  and a
  small portion of Aveak citrine oinliaent is  after-
  wards to be applied.
                Infusion of senna.
    Take of senna, 3 drachms, lesser cardamom seeds,
  husked and bruised, £ do.; boiling water, as much
  as will yield a filtered infusion of 6 oz.  Digest
  for an hour, and filter, when cold.
    This is a well contrived  purgative infusion, the
  aromatic correcting the drastic effects of the sen-
  na. It is of advantage that  it should be used fresh
  prepared, as it is apt to spoil very quickly.
           Tartarized infusion of senna.
    Take of senna, 1| oz. coriander seeds, bruised,
  J oz.  crystals of tartar, 2 drachms, distilled water,
  I pint.  Dissolve the crystals of tartar by boiling
  in the water; then pour the liquor, as yet boiling,
  on the senna and seeds.  Macerate  for an hour, in
  a covered vessel, and  strain when cold. The addi
;  tion of the crystals of tartar renders the taste of
  the senna less unpleasant, and also promotes its
  action.  The quantity to take as a  purge, is from
  £ an oz. to 1 oz. early in the morning.
               Electuary of senna.
    Take of senna, 8 oz. coriander  seeds, 4 oz. li-
  quorice, 4 oz. figs, 1 lb. pulp of tamarinds,  cassia
  fistula, and prunes, of each ^ lb.  double refined
  sugar, 2^ lbs.   Powder the senna with the corian-
  der seeds, and  sift out 10  oz. of the mixed pow-
  der; boil the remainder with the figs and liquorice,
i  in 4 lbs.  of water, to one half; express, and  strain
  the liquor, which is then to be evaporated to the
  weight of  about 1^ lb.; dissolve the sugar  in it,
  add this syrup, by degrees, to the pulps;  and last-
  ly, mix In the powder.
    This electuary is a very convenient laxative, and
  has long been in common use among practitioners.
  Taken to the size of a nutmeg, or  more, as occa-
  sion may require, it  is an excellent laxative for
  loosening the belly in costive habits.
             Compound colocynth pills.
    Take of pith of colocynth, cut small, 6 drachms,
  hepatic aloes, 1 1-2 oz. scammony, 1-2 oz.  lesser
  cardamom seeds, husked anil  bruised,  1 drachm;
  Castile soap, softened with warm  water, so as to
  have  a gelatinous consistence, 3 drachms;  warm
  water, 1 pint.  Digest the  colocynth in the water,
  in a covered vessel, with a moderate heat, for 4
  days.   To the  liquor, expressed and filtered, add
  the aloes and scammony,  separately, reduced to
  powder; then  evaporate the mixture to a proper
  thickness for making  pills, having added, towards
  the end of the evaporation,  the soap-jelly and pow-
  dered seeds, and mix all the ingredients thorough-
  ly together.
    These pills are much used as warm and stomachic
  laxatives;  they are well suited for  costiveness, so
  often attendant on people of sedentary lives, and,
  upon the whole, are one of the most useful articles
  in the materia medica.
                   Aloetic pills.
    Take of socotrine aloes, powdered, 1 oz. extract
  of gentian, £ oz.  oil of caraway seeds, 2 scruples,
  syrup of ginger, as much  as  is sufficient.   Beat
  them together.  The dose  is about ten grains.
              Compound aloetic pills.
    Take of hepatic aloes, 1 oz. ginger root in pr <v-
TNE. 
236
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
der, 1 drachm, soap, half oz. essence of pepper-
mint,  half drachm.   Powder the aloes with the
ginger, then add the soap and the oil, so as to form
an intimate mixture.  This is an excellent  purge
for costive habits, in the dose of from 5 to 10 grs.
            Compound rhubarb pills.
  Take of rhubarb, in powder,  1  oz.  socotrine
aloes, 6 drachms, myrrh,  half oz. volatile  oil of
peppermint, half drachm.  Make them into a mass,
with a sufficient quantity of syrup of orange peel.
These pills are intended for moderately warming
and strengthening the stomach, and gently opening
the belly.  A scruple  of the mass  may be taken
night  and morning.
 Purgative powder, formerly called hiera picra.
  Take of socotrine aloes, 1 lb. white canella, 3
oz.  Powder them separately, and then mix them,
The spicy canella acts as a corrigent to the  aloes;
but the compound is  more adapted to be formed
into pills than to be used in the state of powder.
It is a convenient medicine for costive habits, not
suoject to the piles.  Dose from 10 grains to a scru-
ple at bed time.
           Mild purgative emulsion.
  Take of manna and  oil of almonds, each 1 oz.
prepared kali, 12 grs.  cinnamon and rose  water,
each 3 oz.  Mix carefully the oil, kali, and man-
na together, gradually pouring the liquids to form
an emulsion, of which take  two table-spoonsful
night  and morning.
             Electuary for the piles.
  Take of the electuary of senna, 1* oz. washed
flowers of sulphur, 4 drs. vitriolated  kali, in pow-
der, 1 do. syrup of roses, as much as is sufficient.
Make into an electuary, of Avhich take the size of
a nutmeg, going to bed, as may  be required. This
is an excellent remedy for  persons who have the
piles,  or are subject to their return.
               Castor oil clyster.
  Take of castor oil, 2 ounces,  1 egg;  mix them
well, and then add gruel, 8 oz. which will operate
very mildly, and is efficacious in case of worms.
               Purging clyster.
  Take of manna,  1 oz.  Dissolve  in 10 oz.  by
measure, of compound  decoction of chamomile;
then add  of olive oil, 1 oz. sulphate of magnesia,
\ ounce.   Mix and let it be given directly.
       REMEDIES "OR COUGHS AND COLDS.

Paregoric elixir, or camphorated tincture of opium.
  Take of hard purified opium,  in powder, ben-
zoic acid, each, 1  drachm, camphor,  2 scruples,
essential  oil of aniseed, 1 drachm, proof spirit of
wine, 2 pints.  Digest for 10 days, and strain.  In
this formula, the virtues of the opium and the cam-
phor are  combined. It derives an agreeable flavour
from  the acid  of benzoin and essential oil.  The
latter will also render it more stimulating.   It was
originally prescribed under the title of elixir asth-
maticum, which  it does not ill  deserve.  It con-
tributes to allay the tickling which provokes fre-
quent coughing, and at the same time, it opens the
breast, and gives greater  liberty of breathing.  It
is given to children against the chincough,  &c. in
doses of  from  5 drops to 20; to adults,  from 20 to
100.  Half an ounce, by measure, contains about a
grain of opium.
              Expectorant pills.
  Take of dried root ot squills,  in fine powder, I
scruple, gum ammoniac, lesser cardamom seeds, in
powder, extract of liquorice, each I drachm.  Form
them into a mass with simple syrup.   This is an
elegant and commodious form for the exhibition of
squills, whether for promoting expectoration, or
with the  other intentions to which that medicine
is applied.   The dose is from 10 grains to 1 scru-
ple, three times a day.
           Napoleon's pectoral pills.
  The following recipe was copied from one in the
possession of the late emperor of France, and was
a very favourite  remedy with Napoleon  for diffi-
culty  of breathing, or oppression of the chest,
arising from a collection of mucus in the  air cells
and vessels of the lungs, and in the gullet.  Con-
siderable benefit has  been derived from them in
many similar cases.   Take of ipecacuanha root, in
powder,  30 grains, squill root, in powder,  gum
ammoniac,  do. each 2 scruples, mucilage of gum
arabic, sufficient to form a mass.  To be divided
into 24 pills;  2 to be taken every night and morn-
ing.
         Dr Ratcliffe's cough mixture.
  Mix together  4  drachms of syrup of squills, *
drachms of elixir of paregoric, 4 drachms of syrup
of poppies.  Of  this take a tea-spoonful in a little
tea or warm water, as occasion requires.
         Dr Munro's cough medicine.
  Take 4 drachms of paregoric elixir, 2 drachms
of sulphuric ether, 2 drachms of tincture of tolu.
Mix,  and take a tea-spoonful night and  morning,
or wnen the cough is troublesome, in a little milk-
warm water.
           Simple remedy for coughs.
  Take of boiling water, half a pint, black cur-
rant jelly, a dessert-spoonful, sweet spirit of nitre,
a tea-spoonful.   Mix  the jelly in the water first,
till it is quite dissolved,  and add the nitre last.
Take a dessert spoonful of the  mixture  at night,
going to bed, or when the cough  is troublesome.
The mixture should be made and kept in a tea-pot,
or other covered vessel.
          Remedy for chronic cough.
  The following is very serviceable in common ob-
stinate coughs, unattended with fever.   Take  of
tincture of tolu, 3 drachms, elixir of paregoric,
j an ounce, tincture of squills, 1 drachm.  Two
tea-spoonsful to be taken in a tumbler of barley-
water going to bed, and when the cough is trou-
blesome.
          For coughs in aged persons.
  In the coughs  of aged persons, or in cases where
there are large accumulations of purulent or viscid
matter, with  feeble expectoration, the  following
mixture will be found highly beneficial:  Pour gra-
dually 2 drachms of nitric acid, diluted  in half a
pint of water, on 2 drachms of gum ammoniac, and
triturate them in a glass mortar, until the gum is
dissolved.  A table-spoonful to be taken,  in sweet
ened water, every two or three hours.
                Cough emulsion.
  Take of oil of almonds, 6 drachms, milk of do,
5 oz.  rose water, gum arabic, and purified sugar,
equal parts, 2 drachms.   Let these be well rubbed
together, and take 2 table-spoonsful four times a
day, and a tea-spoonful upon cougning.   This is
far  preferable to the  common  white emulsions
formed  by an alkali, which,  uniting with the oil,
produces a kind of soap, and  readily mingling wilh
water, forms the white appearance observed, and
is commonly disgusting to patients, and unpleasant
to the stomach; Avhereas  this suits every palate,
and removes that tickling in the throat so very dis-
tressing to patients.
           Emulsion for a cold, &c.
  Take of milk  of almonds, 1 oz. syrup of tolu,
2 drachms, rose water, 2 do. tincture of squills,
16 drops. Make into a draught. Four to be taken
during the day.  This is an admirable remedy in
colds, and also in consumptio.is, as well as in
asthma.
               Gargle for thrush.
  Thrush, or aphtha; in the mouth, will be greatly 
MEDICINE.
237
benefited by the  frequent use  of the following
gargle.   Mix  together 20 drops of muriatic acid
(spirit of salts,) I ounce of honey of roses,  and 4
ounces of decoction of barley.
  Another.—Make a gargle  of  2 drs. of borax, 1
oz.  of honey of roses, and 7 oz. of rose water. To
be used three or four times a day.
             Gargle for sore throat.
  Take of decoction of bark,  7 oz. tincture  of
myrrh, 2 drachms, purified nitre, 3 do.  Make in-
to a gargle.  This is a sovereign  method to dis-
perse a tumefied gland, or common  sore throat.
By taking upon such occasions a small lump of pu-
rified nitre,  putting it into the mouth, and letting
it dissolve there, then removing  it, and applying it
again in a few seconds, and swallowing the saliva,
I have, says Dr Thornton, for many years prevent-
ed a sore throat from forming.
            For putrid sore throat.
  Take of decoction of bark,  6 oz. diluted vitriolic
acid,  1 drachm, honey of roses, 1 oz.  Make into
a gargle; to be used, mixed  with port wine, fre-
quently during the day.
         For inflammatory sore throat.
  Take of  nitre, 2 drs. honey,  4 do. rose  water,
6 oz.   Mix.   To be used frequently.
  Another.—Take of spirits of salts, 20 drops,
honey of roses, £ oz.  water, 4 do.  Mix.
           For ulcerated sore throat.
  The purified lignic acid, in cases of putrid ulce-
ratcJ sore throat, has been attended with the most
decisive success.  Its internal exhibition more ef-
fectually allays thirst, and abates fever, than any
other acid; and when applied as  a gargle to inflam-
ed or ulcerated sore throats,  it has been found to
disperse the inflammation, and  to dete-ge the ul-
cers more  effectually  than  the infusion  of rose
leaves with the sulphuric acid, the gargle general-
ly resorted  to in  those cases.  The concentrated
acid may be  given in the dose of from 40 to 60
drops in a glass of water three or four times a day.
For the purpose of gargling the throat, 4 drachms
of the concentrated acid  may be  added  to half a
pint of water.
             MEDICINE FOR WORMS.

                The male fern.
  The root of male fern has long been esteem-
ed a powerful remedy for worms; and its pow ler
has been sold under a fictitious name, as an infalli-
ble specific for the broad or  tape worm.  Some-
times il has been ordered to be taken without any
mixture; at other times gamboge, scammony, mer-
cury, and other purgative medicines, have been or-
dered to be taken with it.
  In the year 1755, the  late king of France pur-
chased, for a large sum of money,  the recipe of a
medicine which was said  to be an effectual cure for
the tape worm, from the widow of a surgeon in
Switzerland, whose husband used to administer it.
On discovery it proved to be fern root, reduced to
powder, which is to be taken in the following man-
ner: The day before the  patient is to begin to take
the fern, he  is to take  a dose of some  opening
medicine, and after its  operation to make a very
light supper; next morning he is to take 3 drachms
ot the powder of the fern-root, in a cup  of lime-
flower water, and after  it a little orange-peel, or
some other grateful aromatic; and  if he vomits it
up, to take soon after another full dose of the pow-
der of the fern-root.  Two hours after this is swal- '
lowed, the  following purging powders are to be
taken, viz.  12 grains of resin of scammony,  mixed
with as  much of the panacea mercurialis, (calomel
digested in spirit of wine), and 5 grains  of gam-
boge, in powder; the dose being made stronger or
weaker, according  to the strength  of the patient.
Soon after taking this dose, the patient is to drink
tea, and as soon as  the physic begins to operate, it
he perceives that the tsenia is coming away, he it
to remain on  the  close-stool till  it has entirely
passed;  if the  purgative  should  prove too weak,
the patient is to take a dose of Epsom salts, and to
drink freely of broth.   If the first dose of the fern
powder, and of the purging medicine, has not the
desired effect, the powder and purge are to be re-.
peated next  day; and if  at any time the tsenia is
observed to be coming away, the greatest care must
be taken not to break it.
                  Worm seed.
  Worm seed is one of the oldest and most com-
mon anthelmintics, especially in the lumbrici  of
children.  On account of their essential oil, *hey
are heating and stimulating.   They are given to
children to the extent of 10 grains,  or £ a drachm,
finely powdered, and strewed on bread and butter;
or made into an electuary with honey i i treacle;
or candied with sugar; or diffused  through  milk,
and taken in the  morning when the stomach is
empty.  After they have been used for some days,
it is customary to give a cathartic; or they are com-
bined from the beginning with rhubarb, jalap, or
calomel.
             To destroy ascarides.
  Take of socotrine aloes, 2 drachms, new milk, 8
oz. Rub them together for a clyster.  This is use-
ful to  destroy the ascarides, or little thread-
worm.
                Powder of tin.
  In a tea-spoonful of honey,  or currant jelly, mix
a drachm of powder of tin, and take it twice a day
for six successive mornings and evenings, making
altogether 12 drachms, or 1$ oz. of the tin.  A
little rhubarb, tr any mild aperient medicine, may
be taken each alternate night of  the six.  This is
the quantity for an adult person,  but  would not
prove too  much for a child, we apprehend, as the
tin does not act upon the bowels, but  upon the
worm itself.
               Oil of turpentine.
  Dr Gibney,  of Cheltenham, observes, that the
oil of turpentine is almost a specific in every spe-
cies of worms,  and its failure, in tne practice  of
many physicians, he attributes to the improper ex-
hibition of it.   When the dose is not sufficiently
large, it affects the  kidneys and skin, and produces
no effect on the worm, or intestinal canal. He pre-
scribes 1 or  2  drachms, at  intervals, for children
of 3 years of age, and 6 di-achms for older children,
and  more for adults.   He directs  it to be taken
when the stomach  is most empty, and enjoihs strict
abstinence during  its  usi.   Begin with a  good
dose early in the morning, and repeat it every h i;r
for three or four houis, as circumstances may  in-
dicate.  Combine  with it mucilage of gum arabic,
simple cinnamon water, and syrup.  And, in case
it should not operate on the bowels as an aperient,
take a dose of  castor oil.  This  treatment  is re-
newed about eveiy  four or five days, for some time
after the evacuation of worms, or until the faeces
become healthy.
             Essence of bergamot.
  An Italian physician,  of great  eminence, has
found the " essentia de  cedra," (essence of berga-
mot,) in the dose of one  or two drachms, (mixed
with  honey,) more efficacious in  destroying the
tape,  and also the  long round worm, than the  oil
of turpentine or naphtha.
          For tape-worm m children.
  Beat up 5£ drachms of rectified oil of turpen-
tine, with the yolk of an  egg, and some sugar and
water, or common syrup.   Give this to a child 
 238                           UNIVERSAL I

 having tape-worms.  Two doses are sure of ex-
 pelling them.
           Fo^ the long round worms.
  Take of tartarian  southernwood seed, braised,
 tansy seed, ditto, of each, I oz. Valerian root, pow-
 dered, 2 drachms, jalap root, ditto, ^ drachm, sul-
 phate of potass, 1$ ditto, oxyniel of  squills,  suffi-
 cient to form an electuary.  A dessert-spoonful is
 to be taken morning and evening.
              Chug's worm lozenges.
  Efficacious as this domestic medicine is, it is still
 dangerous in unskilful hands.  With this precau-
 tion, the  composition from which these lozenges
 are made, is staled as folfows:
              'The yellow lozenges.
  Take of saffron, § an ounce: boil  it in one gal-
 lon of water,  and having strained it off, add of
 cal  mel,  washed  in  spirit of wine,  12 ounces;
 white sugar, 28 pounds; mucilage of tragacanth,
 sufficient to make  the  mass.  Roll this out of a
 sufficient thickness,  so that each lozenge may con-
 tain one  grain of calomel.   If cut  of any  other
 shape than square, as round  or oval,  much of the
 mass will  require making up again and again;  it
 folloAvs, that in the  square form, the mass would
 make 5760 lozenges, whilst the first cutting, in the
 oval or round, would only produce 2-3ds of that
 number.   Dose, from one to six,  according to age.
              The brown lozenges.
  Take of the calomel,  (as above) seven ounces,
resin of jalap,  3^ pounds,  sugar, 9 pounds,  muci-
lage of tragacaiith, as much as may be found  suffi-
cient to form Ihe mass, which must be cut out into
6720 pills, or lozenges; thus, leaving in each, half
a grain of the  panacea.  The dose of these brown
pills is from  one to six, according to age and
strength.   The yellow  lozenge is to be taken at
night, the brown on the following morning.   Cold
is to be avoided during the course.
          MEDICINES FOR INDIGESTION.

                 Gentian wine.
  Take gentian root and dried lemon-peel, fresh, of
each 1 ounce, 2 drachms of long pepper, and 2
pints of mounain wine: infuse without heat for a
week,  and strain out the wine for use.   In  com-
plaints of the  stomach, arising from weakness  or
indigestion, a glass of this wine  may be taken an
hour before dinner and supper.
               Chalybeate wine.
  Take 2  oz. of filings of iron, cinnamon and
mace,  each 2 drachms,  and 2 pints of Rhenish
wine.   Infuse for tnree or four "weeks, frequently
shaking the bottle, then  pass the wine through a
filfer.   This Avine is a remedy for obstruction of
the menses.  The dose is half a wine glass taken
twice or thrice a day.  Lisbon wine, if sharpened
with half an oz. of cream of tartar, is also beneficial.
                Powerful  tonic.
  Take of decoction of bark, 6 oz.  compound
tincture of bark, 1 oz. bark, in powder, l drachm,
calcined magnesia, I do.  Form a mixture.   Two
table-spoonsful are to be given three times a day.
           For debility of tlie stomach.
  Take of chamomile flowers, lemon peel, orange
do. each 4 drachms, boiling  water 1 pint.   Let
them remain for four hours, and  strain.  To the
strained liquor add syrup of ginger, 6 dr.  The dose
is a wine-glassful, in the morning early, and repeal-
an  hour  before dinner,  for habits debilitated by
drinking, or  natural  weakness of the stomach.
           Stomachic  aperient pills.
  The pills made according to the following recipe,
have been fong prescribed as a dinner pill With suc-
cess: Take of rhubarb rooc poAvdered, l£ drachms,
3CEIPT BOOK.

 Turkey myrrh, 1 do. socotrine aloes, \ do. extract
 of chamomile  flowers, 2^ do. essential oil of do.
 16 drops.   Mix well together, and divide into 80
 pills.   Two or three to be taken about an hour be-
 fore dinner.
     Tonic draught in cases of great debility.
   Take of the  decoction of bark, 12 drachms, tinc-
 ture of bark, 1 ditto, syrup of Tolu, £ ditto, diluted
 vitriolic acid,  8 drops.  Make into a  draught, to
 be taken three times a day.
     D* Bmdie's prescription for indigestion.
   Dissolve three drachms of sulphate of magnesia
 in half a pint of the  infusion ot  roses (made ac-
 cording to the  London  Pharmacopoeia),  and  then
 add half an ounce  of the  tincture of cascarilla.
 Three table-spoonsful to be taken twice a day; i. e.
 between the hours of breakfast and dinner, and in
 the evening.
     Abernethy's prescription for indigestion.
   Take of calomel (or sub-muriate of mercury),
 precipitated sulphuret of antimony, each  1 scruple,
 poAvder of gum guaiacum,  2 scruples,  Spanish
 soap, as much  as will he sufficient to form into 20
 pills, which are to be taken night and morning.
         For indigestion and costiveness.
   The following remedies for indigestion, attend-
 ed with heart-burn and costiveness, were prescrib-
 ed by Dr Gregory, of Edinburgh:  Take  of carbo-
 nate of potass, 4 drachms, simple cinnamon water,
 pure water, each 6 oz. compound tincture of gen-
 tian, £ oz.   Mix.  Three large spoonsful are to be
 taken twice a day.
            Accompanying purgative.
   Take of compound pill of aloes, with colocynth,
 2  drachms. To be divided into 24 pills, two to be
 taken twice a  week.
             Remedy for flatulency.
   Take of bay berries, 6 drachms, grains of para-
 dise, 2 do. socotrine  aloes and filings of iron, each
 2  scruples, oil  of turpentine,  2 drachms,  simple
 syrup, sufficient to form an electuary.
 Dr Reece's remedy for flatulence  and  cramp in
                  the stomach.
   Take of carbonate of soda, 1  drachm,   com-
 pound  tincture of rhatany,  1 ounce, compound
 tincture of ginger and chamomile, 3 drachms,  cam-
 phorated  julep, 7  ounces.   Mix.  Three table-
 spoonsful are to be taken twice a day.
                 Night-mare.
   Great attention is to be paid to regularity and
 choice  of  diet.  Intemperance of  every kind is
 hurtful, but nothing is more productive of this
 disease than drinking bad wine. Of eatables, those
 which are  most prejudicial are, all fat and greasy
 meats, most vegetables, fruit, and  pastry.  These
 ought to be avoided, or eaten with  caution.  The
 same may  ba,said of salt meats, for which dyspep-
 tic patients nave frequently a remarkable  predilec-
 tion,  but which are  not  on  that account the less
 noxious.
   Moderate exercise contributes, in a superior de-
 gree, to promote the digestion of food, and prevent
 flatulence:  those, however,  who  are  necessarily
 confined to a sedentary occupation,  should parti-
 cularly  avoid applying to study, or bodily labour,
 immediately after eating.  If  a strong propensity
 to sleep should occur after dinner, it will be cer-
 tainly better to indulge it a little, as the process of
 digestion frequently goes on much belter during
 sleep than  when awake.
   Going to bed before the usual hour is a frequent
 cause ot night-mare,  as it either occasions the pa-
 tient to sleep loo long, or to lie long awake in the
 night.   Passing a Avhole night, or part of a night,
 without rest, likewise gives birth to the disease, as
 it  occasions the patient, on the succeeding night, to
 sleep too soundly.   Indulging in sleep too late in 
MEDICINE.
239
the morning, is an almost certain method to bring
on the paroxysm, and the more frequently it returns,
the greater strength it acquires; the propensity to
sleep at this time is almost irresistible.  Those who
are habitually subject to the attacks of the night-
mare ought  never to sleep alone, but to have some
persons near them, so as to be immediately awoke
by  their groans or struggles; and the person  to
whom this office may be entrusted, should  be in-
structed to  rouse  the patient as eariy as possible,
that the  paroxysm may  not  have time  to gain
strength.
                 Digestive pills.
  Take of soft extract of quassia, 1 dr.; essential
oil of peppermint, I drop. Make into 12 pills, of
which take  three  an  hour before dinner.   These
pills are excellent to create digestion in habits in-
jured by hard drinking.
              To improve digestion.
  Eat a small crust of bread every morning, fast-
ing, about an hour before breakfast.
             To restore the appetite.
  Take of shavings of quassia, 2 drachms; boiling
water, 1  pint.  Let this remain in a close vessel
until cold, when strain off, and add to the strained
liquor, compound  tincture of cardamoms, 2 «iz.;
spirit of lavender, 4 drs.;  powder of  rhubarb, 1
scruple. Take three table-spoonsful an hour before
dinner to  create an appetite.
          Aloetic and assafcelida pills.
  Take of socotrine aioes, in powder,  assafcetida,
soap, equal  parts.   Form them  into a mass with
mucilage ef gum arabic.   These pills, in doses  of
about ten grains twi'e a day, produce the most sa-
lutary effects in cases of dyspepsia, attended  with
hysteria, flatulence, and costiveness.
                For heartburn.
  This complaint is an uneasy sensation in the sto-
mach, Avith  anxiety, a heat more or less violent,
and sometimes attended with oppression, faintness,
an inclination to vomit, or a plentiful discharge of
clear lymph, like saliva.
  This pain may arise from various causes; such  as
wind,  sharp humours,  and worms gnawing the
coats of the  stomach; also from acrid and pungent
food; likewise from rheumatic and gouty humours,
or surfeits, and from too free a use of tea.
  The diel  should be ofa light animal  kind; the
drink brandy and  water, toast and water, Bristol
water; no  vegetables should be allowed; very little
bread, and that well toasted.
  If heartburn has arisen  from acidity in the rto-
mach, it will be necessary, after a gentle emetic,
to take 2 table-spoonsful of the following mixture
three times  a day:—3 dr. of magnesia,  1 scruple of
rhubarb, in  powder;  1 oz. of cinnamon water, \ a
dr.  of spirit of lavender, and 4 oz. of distilled water.
 For heartburn, attended by pain  and flatulence.
  Mix together 12 grains of prepared  chalk,  £ an
oz.  of peppermint  water, 1 oz. of pure water, 2
drs. of spirit of pimento, and 12  drops of tincture
of opium.  This draught is to be taken 3 times a day.
     For heartburn, attended by costiveness.
  In this case, gentle laxatives, combined with car-
minatives, are to be administered, until the cause
is entirely removed.   Take of confection of senna,
2 oz.; jalap, in powder, 2 drs.; compound powder
of cinnamon, 20 grains; cream of tartar, 1 dr., and
syrup of ginger as  much as will form an electuary;
of which the bulk  of a walnut is to be taken every
night on going to bed.
    DIARRH03A, GOUT, RHEUMATISM, &C.

      To check diarrhoea, or looseness.
Take of the soft extract of bark, 15 grains; puri
fied  alum, in powder, 5 do.; tincture of opium, 6
drops.  Make into a bolus, to be taken three times
a day, in ha'f a glass of red wine.
  Another method.—Take of tincture of opium, 15
drops; chalk  mixture, 6 oz.; cinnamon water, 1 oz.
Make into a  mixture, of which take a large table-
spoonful every  six hours.
  Another.—Take of powder of rhubarb, 10 grs.;
powder of chalk, with opium,  1 scruple; do. with-
out do.  1 dr.  Make into  four  papers, of which
take one night and morning.
  Another.—Take of tincture of opium, 20 drops;
chalk mixture, 4$ oz.; tincture of cinnamon, ^ oz.;
cinnamon water, 2 oz.  Make a mixture, of which
take two table-spoonsful after eveiy liquid motion.
Given in diarrhoea, and the looseness often attend-
ant upon consumption.
         Treatment of obstinate diarrhoea.
  Take of bark, in powder, 2 scruples; compound
powder of chalk, with opium, 10 grains.  Form a
powder, to  be taken three or four times a day.
This is  excellent in obstinate diarrhoea, first eva-
cuating  with  rhubarb and  columbo, equal parts, 3
grains every four hours.
               Anodyne clyster.
  Take of tincture of opium, 2 drachms; decoction
of barley, 8 oz.  Make a clyster, to be thrown up
directly.  To stop diarrhoea and remove spasm.
                 Opiate enema.
  Take of milk of assafcetida, 8 oz.; tincture of
opium,  1 drachm.  To be injected  as a clyster at
bed time.  This is useful in disorders of the anus,
which induce insufferable pain.
               Remedy for piles.
  Take of galls, in powder, 2 drachms; hogs' lard,
^ an oz.   Make into an ointment, to be applied by
means of lint to the external piles, or even pressed
somewhat up the  fundament every night.   This
has done wonders in  the piles,  taking, at the same
time, the following:  Take of quassia, in raspings,
2 drachms; boiling water,  1 pint.  Let  it remain
three hours,  strain; to 7 ounces of the strained li-
quor, add aromatic confection, 1 drachm; ginger,
in powder, 2 scruples.  Take of this mixture, 2
table-spoonsful at  tAvelve and seven every day.
             Pills for rheumatism.
  Take  of guaiacum (gum resin) in powder, soap,
equal parts,   1  drachm, essential  oil of juniper
berry, 4 drops.  Make into 28 pills; take  2 four
times a day.   This is an admirable  remedy.
             Ointment for the mine.
  In America,an ointment of stramonium, made by
gently boiling 6 ounces of the recent leaves (bruised)
in a  pound and a half of fresh hog's lard, till they
become  crisp, is  in  high repute as a remedy for
this disease.  The size of a nutmeg, Dr Turner,
of Philadelphia, has found to remove rheumatic
pains, after  electricity and powerful  liniments,
with internal remedies, had totally failed; and Dr
Zollickoffer  says,  that he has known the stramo-
nium ointment to succeed in cases of rheumatism,
after the internal exhibition of the tincture of stra-
monium had no effect. Fur internal use  he prefers
a tincture of the leaves (made in the proportion of
an ounce and a half of the dried leaves to a pint of
proof spirit)  to the extract.
      Draught for lumbago and sciatica.
  At a recent meeting of the Medical Society of
London, oil  of turpentine  was  strongly recom-
mended, as being almost a panacea  for acute rheu-
matism, he.   The formula in which it was admin-
istered is as follows:—Oil of tuipenline, 20 drops,
decoction of  bark, l£ oz.  Tj be taken eiery 4
hours.  The use of the lancet and purgatives were
generally premised. No sensible operation ensued
from the medicine; but the patients were quickly
relieved of the complaint. 
240                             UNIVERSAL 1

          Rheumatic pains in the face.
  M. Double  has  administered  the  sulphate  of
Peruvian bark in several cases of acute pains in the
face, approaching to tic doloreux, with complete
success.   He  advises it to be given in the dos„ of
6 grains, dissolved  in camphorated  jalap, three
times a day.
     Friction, comp~essim, and percussion.
  Not only rheumatism, but the cramp aud gout, .
which bear affinity to each other, have  lor.g been
greatly relieved by friction, wherever it was bear-
able, but some eures  were performed upon patients
slightly attacked,  by pertinaciously  rubbing the
parts day after day:  to this method  of obtaining
relief, Dr Balfour has  recently  added those  of
compression and  percussion, with complete suc-
cess.   Percussion  at the sole of  the  foot relieves
pain there and higher up the limb, and compres-
sion affords a certain  degree of ease. Compression,
Uone upon the tendon of  the  heel, (grasping  by
the warm hand between the finger and  thumb), is
sure to afford  relief,  as long as  the pressure is con-
tinued, at least so far as  the  knee.   A  bandage
round  the thigh gives instant relief to that part of
the member; grasping, or repealed pinchings, leave
the patient in  comparative ease.  Percussion,  by
the patient himself, with his crutch, upon the spot
most affected, is  very  beneficial.   Dr Balfour
"pummels" the same part daily, until  the cure is
effected.
  Tremor, caused by lifting up the limb, is always
to  be  checked by passing a  bandage round the
ar.ele;  and the reason assigned for this whole series
of remedies is the excitement of certain ne.'ves to
action, or arresting that of others. This practice
is by no means a novelty: it has long been employ-
ed by the negroes upon their European masters, by
whom it is termed " shampooing."
              Remedy for the gout.
  Take of rhubarb, powdered,  guaiac gum, nitrate
ot potass, flowers of sulphur, each, 1 oz. treacle, 1
pound.  Mix  well  together.  From one to two
temspoonsful (according to its aperient  effects)  to
be taken every night, with a little warm gin and
wi ter.
The  Chelsea  pensioner's  remedy for gout and
                 rheumatism.
  Gum guaiacum, 2 drachms, rhubarb, pulA7. ^
drachm,  flowers of sulphur, £ oz. cream of tartar,
2 drachms, nutmeg, or  ginger powder,  ^ dr.
Made an electuary with treacle, and two teaspoons-
ful taken night am.  morning; and if the fit of the
gout or rheumatism  is severe, a glass of hot rum
and water after being in bed; if much fever, white
wine and water, or hot gruel.  To be continued a
few days.  If 2 spoonsful relax the bowels too
much, then only 1.
                 Gout cordial.
  The following is a valuable remedy for gout and
spasms in the  stomach.  Take of the lesser carda-
mom  seeds, husked  and  bruised, caraway seeds,
bruised, each, 2 oz.  the best meadow saffron, ^ an
oz.  Turkey rhubarb, thinly sliced, l£oz. gentian
root, do. £ of  an oz.   Mix,  and infuse in a wine
quart bottle of white brandy for a fortnight.  The
dose is a  table-spoonful, with an  equal quantity of
water, to be taken every third day.
              The Portland powder.
  Take of aristolochia rotunda, or birthwort root,
gentian  root, tops  and  leaves,  germander, do.
ground pine, do. centaury, do.   lake of all these,
well dried, powdered, and sifted fine, equal weight:
mix them well together, and take 1 drachm of this
mixed powder every morning  fasting, in  a  cup of
wine and water, broth, lea, or  any  other vehicle
you like best; keep fasting an hour and a half after
itj  continue this for three months without inter-
IECEIPT BOOK.

 ruption, then diminish the dose to £ of a drachm
 for three months longer, then to  ^ a drachm for
 six months more, taking it  regularly every morn-
 ing if possible: after the first year, it will  be suffi-
 cient to take \ a drachm every other day.  As this
 medicine operates insensibly, it will perhaps take
 two j ears before you receive any great benefit, so
 you must not be discouraged, though you do not
 perceive at first any great amendment; it works
 slow, but sure; it doth  not confine the patient to
 any particular  diet, so one lives soberly,  and  ab-
 stains from  those  meats and liquors  that have
 always been accounted pernicious in the  gout, as
 champaign, drams,  high sauces, &c.
   N.  B.  In rheumatism which is not habitual, a
 few of the drachm doses may do;  but if habitual,.
 or of long duration, the powder must be taken as
 for the gout.  The  remedy requires patience, as it
 operates but slowly in both  distempers.
             Pradier's cataplasm.
   Pradier's remedy for the gout was purchased by
 the Emperor Napoleon,  pro bono publico,  for
 £2500:—Take of balm of  Mecca,  6 dr.  red bark,
 1  oz.  saffron, £  oz. sarsaparilla, 1 oz-. sage, 1 oz.
 rectified spirit of wine, 3 lbs.  Dissolve separately
 the balm of Mecca in  one-third of the spirit of
 wine; macerate  the rest of the  substances in the
 remainder for forty-eight hours, filter, and mix the
 two liquors for use; the tincture obtained is mixed
 with twice or thrice the quantity of lime water; the
 bottle must be shaken in order to mix the precipi-
 tate, settled at the bottom by standing.
              Mode of application.
   The following is the mode of employing the
 remedy.  A poultice must  be prepared of linseed
 meal, which  must be of  good consistency  and
 spread very hot, ot  the thickness of a finger, on a
 napkin, so as to be able completely to surround the
 part affected; if  it be required for both legs, from
 the feet to the knees, it will take about 3 quarts of
 linseed meal.  When the poultice is prepared, and
 as hot as the patient can bear it, about 2 ounces of
 the prepared liquor must be poured equally over
 the whole of the surface of each, without its being
 imbibed; the  part  affected is then to be wrapped
 up in it, and bound up with flannel and bandages
 lo preserve  the heat.   The poultice is  generally
 changed every 24 hours, sometimes at the end of
 twelve.
        FUMIGATION AND VENTILATION.

To purify the air in halls, theatres, and hospitals.
  Dr Van Marum has  discovered a  very simple
method, proved by repeated  experiments, of pre-
serving the air pure in large halls, theatres, hospi-
tals,  &c.  The apparatus for this purpose is nothing
but a common lamp, made according to Argand's
construction,  suspended from the roof of the hall,
and kept burning under a funnel, the tube of which
rises above the roof without, and is furnished with
a ventilator.   For his first experiment he filled his
large laboratory with the smoke  of oak shavings.
In a few minutes after he  lighted  his lamp, the
whole smoke disappeared, and the air was perfectly
purified.
          Simple mode of ventilation.
  Ships' holds are well ventilated  when  there is
wind, by means of a sail, rigged out from the deck
to below, like a funnel,  whose largest orifice points
to leeward.   But in some situations, as  prisons,
where foul air stagnates, this  method cannot be
adopted.   Therefore,  the  plan has been  adopted
of making two holes in the side of the building or
ship, communicating with the  open  air by a tin
tube. Two pair of bellows are fitted up, the nozzle 
MEDICINE.
241
of one being  irtroduced air-tight into one of the
tin tubes, and a leathern pipe nailed on the Avail,
over the other tube, to which  it may be fastened
by wax thread.  The other end of this pipe is to
be made fast to the clicker-hole of the second pair
of bellows:  a  luting of plaster of Paris,  render-
ing both ends air-tight.  A common blacksmith's
forge bellows  will thus empty a space containing
thirty hogsheads of foul air,  and supply its place
with good fresh air in a very  few minutes.
       Air-pipes for ventilating ships, &c.
   Air-pipes are used for drawing foul  air out of
ships, or other close plaoes, by means of fire. One
extremity is placed in a  hole in ihe  side of a fur- j
nace, (closed in every part  excepting the outlet;
for the smoke); the other in the place which it is
designed to purify.  The rarefaction produced by
the fire, causes a current of air to  be determined
to it, and the only means  by Avhich the air can ar-
rive at the fire being through the  pipe, a cpiick
circulation in the place where the extremity of the
pipe may be situated, is consequently produced.
                'The air trunk.
   This apparatus  was contrived  by Dr Hales, to
prevent the stagnation of putrid effluvia in jails and
other places, where a great number of people are
crowded together.   It consists merely of an oblong
trunk open at both ends, one  of which is inserted
into the ceiling of the room, the air of which is to
be kept pure: and the other  extends a good way
beyond the roof.   Through this trunk a continued
circulation is carried on; and the reason  why va-
pours  of this kind ascend more  swiftly  through
a long trunk than a short one, is, that the pressure
of fluids is always according  to  their different
depths, without regard to the diameter  of their
basis, or of the vessel that contains them.   When
the column  of putrid effluvia  is long  and  narrow,
the difference between the column of atmosphere
pressing on the upper end of the trunk, and that
Avhich presses on  the lower end, is much greater
than if the column of putrid effluvia was short and
wide; and consequently the ascent is much swifter.
One pan of a single pair of scales, which was two
inches in diameter, being held within one of these
trunks over the House of Commons, the  force of
the ascending air made it rise so as to require four
grains to restore the equilibrium,  and this when
there was no person in the house; but when  it was
full, no less than 12 grains were requisite to restore
the equilibrium; which clearly shows  that  these
trunks must be of  real and very great efficacy.
German method of cooling and purifying the air
                  in summer.
   In the hot days of summer, especially in houses
exposed to the meridian  sun,  a capacious  vessel
filled with cold water is placed in the middle of a
room, and a feAv green branches (or  as many as it
will  hold)  of lime,  birch,  or willow-tree,  are
plunged with  the  lower  ends into the fluid.  By
this easy expedient,  the  apartment is, in a short
time, rendered much cooler; the evaporation of
the water producing this desirable  effect in  sultry
weather, without  any detriment  to  health.  Be-
sides, the exhalation of green plants, under the in-
fluence of the solar rays, greatly tends to purify
the air; but care  must be taken that they do not
remain in the apartment after night-fall, or in the
shade.
             To fumigate foul rooms.
  To one table-spoonful  of  common salt,  and  a
little  powdered manganese,  in a  glass cup, add,
four  or  five different  times,  a quarter of a wine
glass of strong vitriolic acid. Place the cup on the
floor,  and go  out,  taking car* to  shut  the door.
The vapour will come in contact  with  the malig- '
nant miasma, and destroy it.
      2  F
         Cautions in visiting sick rooms.
  Never venture into a sick room in a violent per-
spiration, (if circumstances require a continuance
there for any time,) for the moment the body be-
comes cold, it is in  a state likely to absorb the in-
fection,  and receive the disease.  Nor visit a sick
person (especially if the complaint be of a conta-
gious nature) with an empty stomach; as this dis-
poses the system more readily to receive the infec-
tion.  In attending  a sick person, stand where the
air passes from the door or window to the bed of
the diseased, not betwixt the  diseased  person and
any fire that is in the room, as the heat of the  fire
will  draw  the infectious vapour in that direction,
and much danger would arise  from breathing in it.
             Fumigating powder.
  Take of  oascarilla, reduced to a coarse powder,
chamomile  flowers, aniseed, each, equal parts, 2
oz.  Put some hot cinders in a shovel, sprinkle
this gradually on it, and fumigate the chambers of
the sick.  It takes off all smell, and keeps off in-
fection.
           Preparation of acetic acid.
  Put 4 ounces of acetate of lead, in powder, into a
tubulated glass retort, and pour over it 4 ounces of
sulphuric acid.  Place  the retort in a sand-bath,
the heat of which should be kept as uniform as pos-
sible. Adapt a common receiver, over which there
must be constantly kept a piece of wet flannel or
cotton for the condensation of the gas as it  conies
over.  Sometimes   sulphurous acid  gas will be
found to adulterate the acetic  acid; this is easily
known  by  the suffocating  odour which it  emits
The best way to prevent this, is by a slow distilla-
tion;  or the Avhole may be distilled a second  time.
The acetic  acid possesses a very pungent odour,
owing to its volatility; consequently it should be
kept in a well stopped  phial.  It is used  as the
basis of all  the aromatic vinegars.
              Aromatic vinegar.
  Acetic acid may be  mixed with camphor and
aromatics,  as in Henry's aromatic vinegar,  in a
quantity  sufficient fora small smelling bottle, at no
great expense.  But it is the acetic acid which is
useful in preventing infection, and not the aromat-
ics, which are added for the pleasure of the perfume.
Cheap aromatic vinegar for purifying large build-
            ings, manufactories, &c.
  Take of common vinegar any quantity; mix a
sufficient quantity of powdered  chalk or common
whiting with it, as long as bubbles of carbonic acid
gas arise.  Let the white matter subside, and pour
off the insipid supernatant liquor; afterwards let
the white powder be dried either in the open air or
by a fire.  When dry, pour upon it, in a glass or
stone vessel,  sulphuric  acid as long as white acid
fumes continue to ascend.   This product is similar
to the acetic acid, known in the shops by the name
of aromatic vinegar.  The simplicity of this  pro-
cess  points  it out as a very useful and commodious
one  for  purifying  prisons,  hospital  ships,  aud
houses, where contagion is presumed, or suspected,
the white acid fumes diffusing themselves quickly
around.
To prevent and destroy  the mephitism of plasterea
                    walls.
  Wherever a number of people are assembled,
either in health or sickness, the walls  become  in-
sensibly impregnated  with  infectious exhalations.
Currents of air, when admitted, sweep and cleanse
the atmosphere,  but do  not carry away the mias-
mata concealed in the porosity of the wills,  which
retain the infectious humidity of the perspiration
of bodies,  gradually condensing on their surface
Quick lime may be substituted  to destroy such
mephitism  of  walls, and also to prevent the evil
The most infected taus and sietes lose their smell, 
RECEIPT BOOK.
 242                          UNIVERSAL R

 when  mixed  with the whiting or  size of lime.
 Lime  enters white-washing, and may become the
 principal substance of it,  by substituting it for
 Spanish  white.  When made the principal ingre-
 dient of white-washing, it will prevent walls from
 being impregnated with infectious  miasmata.  The
 addition  of milk arid oil are requisite, for lime has
 no adhesion on walls, nor can a body or  substance
 be g'lA'en to the layer.  The slightest rubbing  with
 a pencil brush  will rub  it  off, and leave the  Avail
 naked.   The cheesy part of the milk, with the ad-
 dition of oil, which makes a soapy body with lime,
 form, after the evaporation of the humidity, a dense
 coherent layer, or sort of varnished plaster, which'
 overcomes the porosity of  stone,  plaster, brick,
 and wood. This wash has another advantage, that
 of checking the  nitrification of walls, which the
painting  of them in water colours  has a tendency
 to accelerate.
              To disinfect letters.
  The best method  of disinfecting letters,  and
other articles coming from places that are supposed
to be visited  hy the plague, is  to expose them to
the fumes of burning  sulphur, mixed with salt-
petre.
CAUTIONS TO GLAZIERS, PAINTERS, AND PLUMBERS.

  The following medical  cautions were recom-
mended by the physicians and surgeons of the Bath
Hospital, to those who have received benefit by the
use of the Bath waters, in cases where the poison
of lead is concerned, as plumbers, glaziers, paint-
ers, and other artificers, who work in trades which
expose them to similar  hazards, from the same
cause; to be observed by them at their return to
the exercise of their former occupation.
  1. To maintain the strictest temperance, parti-
cularly respecting distilled spirits, which had bet-
ter be altogether forborne.
  2. To pay the strictest attention to cleanliness;
and never suffer paint to stick about to daub their
hands: and particularly never  to  eat their meals,
or go to rest, without washing their hands and face
with soap, perfectly clean.
  3. Not  to  eat or drink  in  the room or place
wherein they work; and  much less to suffer any
food or drink to remain unused, even for the short-
est space  of time,  in  any part of a  room while
painting, or vvhere colour stands;  and not to work
on an empty stomach.
  4. As the clothes of persons in  this line (paint-
ers,  particularly) are generally much soiled with
colour,  it is recommended for them to perform
their works in frocks of ticking, which may be fre-
quently  washed, and c  nvenienlly laid aside when
the workmen go to their meals, and again put on
when they resume their work.
  5. Every business which can, in these  branches,
should be performed with gloves on  their hands;
painters,  in performing clean light  work, would
find gloves an inconvenience; but  to avoid the evil
here mentioned, the handle of the brush  should be
often scraped.  Woollen  or worsted gloves are re-
commended, as they may,  and  should be  often
washed, after being soiled with the paint, or even
with much rubbing against the metal.
  6. Caution is necessary in mixing, or even in
unpacking,  the  dry colours, that the fine powder
do not get into their mouths, or be drawn in by the
breath.  A crape covering over the face might be
of service; but care should be taken to turn always
the same side of the crape towards the face, and to
clean or wash it frequently.
  7. All artificers should avoid touching lead when
not; and this caution is especially necessary for
 printers or compositors, who have often lost the
 use  of their limbs by handling the types, when
 drying by the fire after being washed.
   8. Glaziers' putty  should  never he  made  or
 moulded by the hand.  An iron pestle and mortar
 would work the ingredients together, at least equal-
 ly as well, and without hazard.  It is necessary in
 working putty to handle it, nor is it usually per-
 nioious; cleanliness is therefore the best recom-
 mendation.
  9. If any persons, in any of the  above employ
 ments, should feel  pain  in the bowels, with cos-
 tiveness, they should immediately take 20 drops of
 laudanum, and when the  pain is abated, two table-
 spoonsful of castor  oil,  or an ounce of  the bitter
purging salt,  dissolved in warm chamomile tea.
If this does not  succeed, a pint, or two pints, of
warm soap-suds, should  be thrown up  as a clys-
ter.
  10. As a preventive, two or three spoonsful of
salad oil, taken in a small cup of  gruel, is likely
to be of service, if  taken daily,  and steadily pur-
sued.
          DISEASES PECULl AR TO FEMALES.

                  Hysteric fits.
   This complaint, called also the hysteric passion,
 appears  under various shapes, and is often owing
 to a lax tender habit, obstruction  of the menses,
 fluor albus, he.
   In the  fit,  the patient is seized with  an oppres-
 sion in the breast, and difficult respiration, accom-
 panied with a sense  of something like a ball  as-
 cending into the throat, which puts her under great
 apprehensions of being suffocated; there is a loss
 of speech, and generally  violent convulsive mo-
 tions. These, with a train of hypochondriac symp-
 toms, are sufficient  to determine the  disease; to
 which may be added, frequent  laughing and pry-
 ing, and various wild irregular actions: after which
 a general  soreness over  all the bodv is felt;  the
 spirits are low; the feet are cold.  The urine is
 clear and limpid, and discharged in.great quantity.
 The hysteric fit may  be  easily distinguished from
 fainting;  for in this the pulse aud  respiration  are
 entirely slopped; in that they are both perceivable.
               Cure and prevention.
   Nothing recovers a person sooner out of the hys-
 teric fit, than putting  the  feet and legs in Avarm
 water.
   When  low spirits proceed from a suppression of
 the piles  or the menses, these evacuations must be
 encouraged,  or repeated  bleedings substituted.
 When they take their origin from long continued
 grief, anxious thoughts, or other distresses of mind,
 nothing has done more service, in these cases, than
 agreeable company, daily exercise, and especially
 long journeys, and a variety of amusements.
   Regimen.—A light animal food, red wine, cheer-
*ful company,  and a good clear air, with moderate
 exercise,  are of great importance in this disorder.
 Drinking tea, and such like tepid relaxing fluids,
 should by no  means be indulged.
   The cure consists in whatever tends to strength-
 en the solids, and the whole habit in general; and
 nothing will effect this  more successfully than a
 long-continued use of the  mineral  chalybeate Ava-
 ters, and  riding on horseback.
               Anti-hysteric spirits.
   Take of proof spirit,  I pint,  sal ammoniac, 2
 ounces, assafoetida, 6 drachms,  potash, 3 ounces.
 Mix  them,  and draw off, by distillation, 1 pint,
 with a slow fire.
   The spirit is pale when newly distilled, but ac-
 quires a considerable tinge by keeping.   The dose 
MEDICINE.
243
is a tea-spoonful in some water, during hysterics,
and the same to be taken occasionally.
               Anti-hysteric pills.
   Take of compound pills of galbanum, 2 drachms,
rust of iron,  4 scruples, syrup of ginger, as much
as is sufficient.   Form a mass, which is to be made
into 40  pills, of which take 4 at noon, and at seven j
in the evening, every dav, drinking after them half I
a glass of port-wine.   These pills are excellent iu
hysteric affections.
                 Foetid enema.
   This  is made by adding to the ingredients of the
common clyster, 2 drachms of the tincture of assa-
foetida.
   In cases of hysterics and convulsions, the fcetid
enema is of  singular use.
                Opiate draught.
   Mix together, cinramon water, one ounce, spirit
of caraways,  half an ounce, sulphuric ether, half a
drachm,  tincture of castor, do.   Let this draught
be taken every  six hours, if the stomach should be
affected  by  cramp.   If the  feet are  cold,  bottles
filled with warm water should be applied to them.
          Tonic for debility in females.
 •  Take of soft extract of bark, 2 drachms,  colum-
bo, rust of iron, each I do.  simple syrup, as much
as is sufficient.   Make into 50 pills; take 2, and '
gradually increase to 5, three  times a day.
           Compound galbanum pills.
   Take  of galbanum, opopanax, myrrh, sagape-
num, each one ounce, assafcetida, half an ounce,
syrup of saffron,  as  much  as is sufficient. Beat
them together.   These pills are excellent as anti-
hysterics, and  emmenagogues: half a scruple,  or
more, may be taken every night, or oftener.
          Compound  spirit of lavender.
   Take of spirit of lavender, three pounds, spirit
of rosemary, one pound, cinnamon, half an ounce,
nutmeg,  the same, red  sauders, three drachms.
Digest  for ten  days,  and then strain  off.  This is
often  taken  upon sugar,  and is a salutary cordial,
far preferable to drams, which are too often had re-
course to by  persons  feeling a great sinking or de-
pression  oi  the spirits.
        Infusion of senna, with tamarinds.
   Add to the infusion of senna, before it be strain-
ed, an ounce of tamarinds; then strain. This forms
a mild and useful purge, excellently suited for deli-
cate stomachs, and inflammatory diseases.  The
taste of the senna is well covered by the aromatic
sugar,  and by  the  acidity  of the tamarinds.  An
ounce is a convenient puige.
                Mild purgative.
   Take of manna, 2 oz. tamarinds, 1 oz. rose wa-
ter, 1 oz.  Boil the rose water and tamarinds to-
gether for a quarter of an hour, then  add the man-
na.  Three  table-spoonsful to be taken every 3
hours,  until  a motion is obtained.   Less ii to be
given to a child.
             Fluor albus, or whites.
   The fluor albus  is a flux of tfiin matter, of a pel-
lucid or white colour; sometimes it is greenish or
yellow,  sharp and  corroding, often foul and foetid;
especially if  it be  of  any long standing.
   Tedious lab .urs, frequent miscarriages,  immo-
derate flo wings of the menses, profuse evacuations,
poor diet, an inactive and  sedentary  life, are the
causes which generally produce this disease.
                 Regimen,  &c.
  The diet should be nourishing: milk with isin-
glass boiled  in  it, jellies,  sago,  broths, and light
meats,  red  port wine in moderation, chalybeate
waters,  moderate exercise, and frequent ablution
of the parts should be recommended.  A standing j
posture  of body long  continued, violent dancing,
or much walking, must be forbidden.
              Astringent inection.
  To restore tone to the parts, it will be necessary
three or four times a day, to inject a portion of
the following mixture, by means of a syringe.
  Rub together in a mortar, white vitriol, 1 drachm,
sugar of lead, 10 grains, Avater, 2 drachms.   Mix
the whole with a pint of distilled water.
  Another.—Mix together I drachm of powdered
alum, with 1 pint of decoction of oak-bark.  Inject
as above.
           Tonic and astringent pills.
  Take of  gum kino,  and extract of  Peruvian
bark, each, 1 drachm, grated nutmeg, 1 scruple,
powdered alum, £ drachm, syrup, in sufficiency to
form a mass, which is to be divided into 36 pills.
Three of these are to be taken at eleven, forenoon,
and five in the afternoon;  being taken two hours
before  dinner,   three hours  afterwards washed
down by a glassful  of good port wine.  Recourse
may at the same time be had to tincture  of Peru-
vian bark, to  preparations of steel, and mineral
waters.
  Prevention.—Females afflicted with this disor-
der should by no means indulge in the too free use
of tea, or other  warm slops of a relaxing nature.
They should sleep  on a matrass, rise early, and
take such exercise as may be convenient, and,  if
possible, on horseback.   Cold bathing should also
be used as often as  convenient.  In winter a flannel
shift ought to be worn.
        Immoderate flow of the -menses.
  When the menses continue too long, or come on
too frequently fo- the strength of the patient,  they
are said to be immoderate, and are generally occa-
sioned by  weak  vessels, thin blood,  or a  plethoric
habit. This often happens in delicate Avomen, who
use enervating liquids too freely, especially tea.  It
also arises in consequence of abortions, and some-
times attends women  who  are obliged  to  work
hard.
  Venesection  may be resorted to, when the pa-
tient is of a full  and robust habit; and, where the
haemorrhage is excessive, opiates are of great use.
            Astringent fomentations.
  Astringent fomentations may often be very pro-
perly prescribed.  Cloths dipped in  decoction of
oak  or Peruvian bark, with the addition ofa small
quantity of brandy, or red wine  and vinegar, will
answer the purpose extremely well.
              Astringent injection.
  Where the haemorrhage is profuse,  and resists
Ihe usual means now recommended,  it will be ne-
cessary to throw up the following astringent injec-
tion into the uterus  from time to time.   Take of
decoction of bark, 1 pint, alum in  powder, 3 drs.
Mix, and use as  an injection, three times if ne-
cessary.
  Regimen, SJc.—To confirm  the cure, and  pre-
vent a relapse, the body should be strengthened by
proper exercise, mineral waters, a light but nour-
ishing diet; such as light broths, red port wine in
moderation, and an  easy cheerful mind.
  When  an  immoderate  Auk of the menses, or
floodiugs after abortion,  is either attended with or
preceded by acute pain,  not inflammatory,  iu the
lower part of the back or belly, and  returns with
greater violence, as the discharge comes on, opium
will, in such a case,  answer belter than astringents,
and may be given in clysters, composed of 3 oz. of
infusion of roses, with a drachm of laudanum.
                Green sickness.
  This disease is commonly attended with pletho-
ra, listlessness to motion, a heaviness,  paleness of
complexion, and pain in ihe back and loins,  also
haemorrhages at the  nose, pains in the head,  with
a  great sense of  weight  across the  eyes,  loathing 
244
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
  of food, a quick and weak pulse, fluor albus, hec-
  tic heats, coughs, and hysteric fits.
    There is often indigestion and costiveness, with
  a preternatural appetite for ohalk, lime, and other
  absorbents.
    Regimen, &c.—The diet ought lo  be  nutritive
  and  generous, with a moderate use of wine. Exer-
  cise ought also to be daily used, and particularly
  on horseback.  The mind should likewise be kept
  amused by associating with agreeable company.
                  Chalybeate pills.
    Mix  together  extract  of bark, and sulphate of
  iron (green vitriol), each 1 scruple; sub-carbonate
  of soda, 15 grains; powdered myrrh, 30 grains.
  Add syrup of ginger to form the whole into a mass,
  which divide into 34 pills.   After the stomach has
  been cleansed  by a gentle emetic, two  of these
  are taken two or three times a day, taking care to
  wash them down with nearly a wine-glassful of the
  following
                  Tonic draught.
   Mix  together compound tincture of Peruvian
  bark, and compound tincture of cardamoms, each,
  1 oz.; compound infusion of gentian, 1 pint.
               Chalybeate draught.
   Pour 15 drops of tincture of muriate of iron into
  a glassful of cold water, or a decoction of Peru-
  vian  bark.  Drink this twice or thrice a day, an
 hour before, or two hours after eating.
                Tincture of iodine.
   In many cases of green  sickness, attended with
 symptoms of approaching  consumption,  and also
 in incipient  phthisis,  the  saturated  tincture  of
 iodine may be administered with great effect.
   When taken internally, it is  very beneficial in
 dispersing wen.   Ten drops of the saturated tinc-
 ture, taken three  times a day, will effectually re-
 move the complaint, in the course of five or six
 Aveeks.
             Cessation  of the menses.
   The constitution undergoes a very considerable
 change at the critical period when menstruation
 ceases; and  it  often happens that chronic, and
 sometimes fatal complaints arise, if  care is not
 taken when this natural discharge terminates.  It
 seldom  stops all  at once,  but gradually  ceases,
 being irregular both as to quantity and time.
   Regimen, &c.—When the disappearance is sud-
 den, in females ofa plethoric habit, malt liquors,
 wine, and animal food, ought, for a time, to be ex-
 cluded from  their  diet.   They  should likewise
 avoid all liquors of a spirituous nature.   Regular
 exercise should be taken, and the body constantly
 kept open by the tincture of senna, Epsom salts, or
 any other mild laxative medicine.
   If giddiness,  and occasional pains in the head,
 affect the patient, or if there be a visible fulness in
 the vessels, the application  of leeches to the tem-
 ple, Avill  be found very beneficial; and if ulcers
 should break out in the legs, &c.  they ought by no
 means to be healed up, unless a salutary drain, by
 means of an issue, be established in some other part.
                    Dropsy.
   Dissolve an ounce of saltpetre  in a pint  of cold
 water; take  a wine-glassful every morning  and
 evening; 6 oz. will perfect  the cure in about six
 weeks.
         For vomiting aunng pregnancy.
  The morning sickness is one of the most painful
 feelings attendant on the pregnant  state; and  it is
 one of those which medicine commonly fails to re-
 lieve.  A cup of chamomile, or peppermint tea,
 taken when first waking, and suffering the patient
 to he  still for an hour, will  sometimes alleviate the
distressing sickness:  but  should   it recur  during
the day, these means seldom succeed.
  Two or three spoonsful pf the following mixture
 should then be taken, either occasionally or when
 the vomiting  and heartburn are more continual,
 immediately after every meal:—Take of calcined
 magnesia, 1 dr.;  distilled  water,  6 oz.; aromatic
 tincture of rhatany, 6 dr.; water, pure ammonia,
 1 dr.   Mix.
   Another.—Dr Scellier extols the following mix-
 ture as a remedy for nausea and  vomiting,  during
 the period of pregnancy.  Take of lettuce-water,
 4 oz.; gum arabic, 1 scruple; syrup of white pop-
 pies,  syrup of marsh-meadow root,  each, 2 oz.;
 Prussic acid, 4 drops.  Let an apothecary prepare
 the mixture. A table-spoonful is to be taken every
 half hour when the vomiting is present.
   If the lettuce-water cannot be obtained, 8 grains
 of the inspissated white  juice (lactuarium), dis-
 solved in 4 oz. of Avater, may be substituted for it
   Another.—The saline mixture, in a state of effer-
 vescence, with a pill of one or two grains of lactua-
 rium, is by some preferred to the above composi-
 tion.  When the mattec brought up is acid, a weak
 solution of the  carbonate of soua may be substituted
 for the saline mixture.
   To relieve sickness and qualms in pregnancy.
   Take of infusion of quassia, 1 oz.; cinnamon Ava-
 ter, 4 dr.; compound  spirit of ammonia, 20  drops
 prepared oyster shells, 2 gr. Make into a draught
 to be taken at twelve and seven o'clock every day.
        For heartburn during pregnancy.
   Take of solution of ammonia, calcined magnesia,
 each,  1 dr.;  cinnamon water, 2 oz.; common  wa-
 ter, 6 oz.  The dose is a table-spoonful as ofteu as
 required.
                   Head-ache.
   When head-ache or drowsiness prove trouble-
 some to a pregnant woman of robust habit, a few
 ounces of blood should be taken from the arm.  It
 she be of a weak or irritable habit, leeches ought
 to be applied  to  the  temples.  In both cases, the
 bowels should be opened by Epsom salts, or some
 other gentle laxative medicine.
                   Hysteria.
   When hysteria, or fainting o curs, the pregnant
 patient should be placed  in a horizontal position in
 the  open  air.  Aft hen she is a little recovered, a
 glass of wine in a little cold water should be ad-
 ministered, or, what is perhaps better, a few drops
 of the spirit of hartshorn in a glass of water.
              Costiveness and piles.
   To  prevent these, women in  a pregnant state
 should  make frequent use  of the  following elec-
 tuary:
   Mix together in a marble mortar, 2 ounces of
 the electuary of senna, half  a drachm of poAvder of
 jalap,  two drachms of cream of tartar,  and half an
 ounce of syrup  of roses.   Half a tea-spoonful to be
 taken every night at bed-time, or  oftener,  as long
 as the above complaints continue.
  Pregnant women should be particularly careful
 not to use aloes as a^purgative, this medicine being
 very apt to increase the piles.  The  same caution is
 necessary with  respect to Anderson's and Scott's
 pills, the basis of both which is aloes.   If the piles
 should prove so very troublesome as to prevent the
 patient from sitting comfortably, leeches ought  to
 be applied to the part; in all other cases, simple
 ablution with cold water,  with the use of purga-
 tives as above directed, will he sufficient.
             Troublesome  itchings.
  Cooling  laxatives are  likewise  proper in this
 place;  also frequent ablution  with cold or  luke-
 warm  water.  If the itching does not  speedfly
abate,  a lotion  is to be applied to the parts, twice
a day, consisting of a drachm of sugar of lead in a
pint of distilled Avater.
        Swellings of the feet and ancles.
  pregnant women are usually free from this com- 
MEDICINE.
246
 olaint in the morning; but suffer a good deal from
 it towards night.
   Prevention.—In  the commencement it will be
 merely requisite for the patient to use a foot-stool,
 when  sitting, so that her feet may never be in a
 hanging position for any length of time.
   Remedy.—If there should be great distention, so
 as to give the sensation of almost bursting, slight
 scarification ought to  be  made Avith the edge  of a
 lancet; and flannels, Avrung out of a hot fomentation
 of chamomile,  are  soon after to be applied.  It is
 almost unnecessary to state, that this complaint in-
 variably disappears at the period of delivery.
          Cramp of the legs and t/ughs.   '        I
   This complaint may be  speedily relieved by rub-
 bing the part affected with the following liniment:
 Mix together, (by shaking in a phial) laudanum, §
 an oz.; tincture of camphor, 1 oz.; and sulphuric
 ether, ^ an oz.
              Cramp in the stomach.
   This is to be avoided by proper attention to diet,
 which  should  not  be of  a flatulent nature, or too
 hard of digestion.  Attention is likewise to be paid
 to the state of the boAvels.
       Distention and cracking of the skin.
   This is very apt to occur in the latter months of
 gestation, accompanied sometimes with considera-
 ble soreness.  It is to be relieved by frequent fric-
 tion with warm  oil.
               Distention of veins.
   The veins of  the legs, thighs, and belly, are apt
 to become enlarged  in the  latter stages of preg-
 nancy.  Although no  bad  consequence ever attends
 this, it will be necessary sometimes to relieve it by
 moderate bleeding, and by repeated small  doses of
 infusion of senna, mixed  with Epsom salts; at the
 same time using a spare diet.   The distended
 vein may frequently be relieved by the application
 of a pretty tight bandage.
             Incontinency of'urine.
   This very uncomfortable complaint  is to be re-
 lieved by a frequent horizontal position, butcannot
 be entirely  remedied but  by  delivery.    Strict
 a'/ention, however, ought to be paid to cleanliness,
 and  much comfort will be felt by the use of a large
 sponge properly fastened.
         Restlessness and want of sleep.
   In this case,  cooling laxative medicines,  as the
 infusion of senna, with Epsom  salts, ought  fre-
 quently to be used.   If relief be not soon obtained,
 small quantities of blood  are to be taken from the
 patient.  Opiates ought never to be used, as they
 tend  only to increase the  febrile state  of the
 patient.
                  Convulsions.
   When a  female  is disposed to this complaint
 from a plethoric habit, there will be great fulness
 and  giddiness in the head, in the latter months of
 gestation; also  drowsiness,  with a sensation of
 weight in the forehead when she stoops, or bends
 forward,  accompanied sometimes by  imperfect
 vision, and the appearance of atoms floating before
 the eyes.  In such a  case, 10 or  12 oz. of blood
 ought to be  taken from the  arm, and the bowels
 are afterwards to be  kept open by  frequent  and
 small doses  of infusion of senna, mixed with Ep-
 som salts, until  the above symptoms entirely  dis*
 appear.  Wine, spirituous and malt liquors,  and
 solid, or animal food,  are likewise to be avoided,
   When convulsions  have  occurred,  and when
 there is reason  to believe that they are owing to
 irritation, rather than plethora, it will likewise be
 necessary to  bleed the patient in a small degree,
 both  from  the  arm,  and by the  application of
 leeches to the temples.  The bowels are also to
 be kept perfectly open,  and a  common  clyster,
containing from half a drachm  to a drachm of
laudanum, is to be administered. The warm bath
is likewise exceedingly useful;  at the same time
taking care to strengthen the habit as  much as
possible.
                The milk fever.
   This fever generallj  arises about the third or
fourth day after delivery.  The symptoms are pain
and distention of the  breasts, shooting frequently
towards the arm-pit.  Sometimes the  breasts  be-
come hard, hot,  and inflamed.   It generally con-
tinues a day or two,  and ends  spontaneously by
copious sweats, or a large quantity of pale urine.
                   Remedies.
   If it should prove violent, especially in young
women of a plethoric constitution, we should abate
the inflammation by  bleeding;  this, however, is
rarely necessary.   But,  in every constitution,  the
body must be kept open by gentle cooling laxatives,
or clysters.   The breasts should be often drawn
either by the child, or, if the mother does not  de-
sign to give suck, by some proper person.  If the
breasts are hard, very turgid, or inflamed, emol-
lient  fomentations  ought to be applied to them.
The common poultice of bread and milk, with the
addition of a litlle  oil,  may be used on this occa-
sion; and warm milk,  or a decoction of elder-
flowers, for a fomentation.
                   Regimen.
   The patient should use a thin, slender diet, con-
sisting only of panada, or some  other farinaceous
substances.   Her drink may be barley-water, milk
and water, weak tea, or the like.
               Inflamed breasts.
   When the breasts tumefy, and begin to be  un-
easy, a few days after  delivery, from the milk stag-
nating, gentle diaphoretics, and purgatives are to
be used, and camphorated spirit of  wine is to be
applied, or warm clothes, dipt in brandy, are to be
put to the arm pits.  Should pain with inflamma-
tion come on, apply a poultice of bread, milk, and
oil, and an emollient fomentation; and in case sup-
puration can.iot be prevented, it must be treated
accordingly.  But, in  general, it is much better to
let the tumour break of itself, than to open it. The
ulcer is afterwards to be treated according to  the
common rules for disorders of that kind.
   If there be only a hardness in the breast, from
coagulated milk, emollient cataplasms and fomen-
tations are to be used,  likewise fresh linseed  oil,
by way of liniment.
                 Sore nipples.
   Chapped or sore nipples are very frequent with
those who give suck.  In this case the olive  oil is
a very proper application;  or fresh cream spread
upon fine  linen;  or a solution of gum arabic in
water.
   It is almost needless to observe, that, whatever
applications be made use of to the nipples, they
ought always to be washed  off  before the child is
permitted to suck.
               Puerperal fever.
   Puerperal fever commonly begins with a rigor,
or chilliness, on the first, second, or third day after
delivery; followed by a violent pain and  soreness
over the belly.  There is much thirst; pain in the
head, chiefly in the forehead, and parts about the
eyebrows; a flushing in the face; anxiety; a hot dry
skin; quick and weak pulse,, though sometimes it
will resist the finger pretty strongly; a shortness in
breathing; high-coloured urine, and a suppression
of the natural discharge.   Sometimes a vomiting
and purging  attend from the first, but in gene-
ral, in the beginning, the belly is costive: however,
when the diseaseiroves  fatal, a diarrhoea generally
supervenes, and the stools at last become involun-
tary.
  The cause  of this fever has been  commonly
                                     V2 
246
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
ascribed either to a suppression of the natural dis-
charge,  an inflammation in the womb, or a reten-
tion of the milk.
                  Remedies.
  If the belly be  costive,  an  emollient  opening
clyster is to  be administered; and, if stools and an
abatement of the  pain  be not  procured thereby,
immediate recourse is to be had to cathartics, and
repeated bleeding from the arm.  Those to be re-
commended  are, Epsom salts and  infusion of sen-
na, or castor-oil; either, in sufficient quantity.
  After the  intestinal canal is sufficiently cleared,
and the  pain abates, a gentle diaphoresis is to be
encouraged by such medicines as neither bind the
body, nor  are heating.  This intention  is best
answered by small  doses  of ipecacuanha, tariar
emetic,  or antimonial wine, combined with a few
drops of laudanum, and given about once or twice
in the course  of the twenty-four  hours.  In the
intermediate spaces  of time, interpose  saline
draughts.
                   Regimen.
  The patient's drink should consist of pure Avater
with a toast  in it;  barley water,  either by itself, or
with the addition of a little nitre; whey made with
rennet or vinegar; milk and water; lemonade; a
slight infusion of  malt; and mint  or sage tea.
MANAGEMENT AND DISEASES OF CHILDREN.
                Infant nursing.
  A child, when it comes  into the world, should
be laid (for the first month) upon a thin mattress,
rather longer that  itself,  Avhich the nurse may
sometimes keep upon her lap, that the child may
always lie straight,  and only sit up  as the nurse
slants the mattrass.   To set a child quite upright
before the end of the  first mon-h, is  hurtful.  Af-
terwards, the nurse  may  begin  to  set it up and
dance it by degrees: and it must be kept as dry as
possible.
                  Friction.
  The clothing should be very light, and not much
longer than the child, that the legs may be  got at
with ease, in order to hive them often rubbed in
the day with a warm hand  or flannel, and in par-
ticular the inside of them.   Rubbing a child  all
over,  takes off scurf, and makes the blood  cir-
culate.
  Rubbing the ankle-bones and inside of the knees
Avill strengthen those parts,  and make the  child
stretch its knees, and keep them flat.
                i    Position.
  A nurse ought to keep a child  as little in her
arms  as possible, lest the legs should be cramped,
and the toes turned inwards.  Let her always keep
the child's legs loose.  The oftener the posture is
changed, the better.
                  Exercise.
   By slow degrees the infant should be accustomed
to exercise, both within doors and in the open air;
but he never should be moved about immediately
after  sucking  or feeding:  it will be apt to sicken
him.   Exercise should  be given by carrying him
about and gently dandling him in his mother or
nurse's arms; but dancing him up and down on the
knee is very fatiguing for a young child.
              To prevent distortion.
   Tossing a child about,  and exercising it in the
open air in fine vroather, is of the greatest service.
In cities, children are not to be kept in hot rooms,
but to have as much air as possible.  Want of ex-
ercise is the cause of rickets,  large heads, weak
 joints, a contracted breast, and uiseased lung3, be-
sides a numerous train of other evils.
          Rendering children hardy.
  Endeavour to harden the body, but without re-
sorting to any violent means.  AH attempts to ren-
der children hardy,  must be  made  by gradual
steps.  Nature  admits of no sodden  transitions.
For instance, infants should, by imperceptible de-
grees, be inured to the cool, and then  to ihe cold
bath; at the same time, attention must  be paid to
their previous management.   If they have hitherto
been accustomed to an effeminating treatment, and
should be  suddenly subjected to an opposite ex-
treme, such a change would be attended Avith dan-
ger.   When children have once been accustomed
to a hardy system of  education, such a  plan  must
be strictly adhered to.
            Cleanliness and bathing.
  The child's skin is to be kept perfectly clean by
washing its limbs morning and evening, and like-
wise its neck and ears; beginning with warm wa-
ter, till by degrees he will not only bear, but like
to be washed Avith cold.
  After he is a month old, if he has no cough, fe-
ver, nor eruption, the bath  should be colder and
colder, (if the  season  is  mild), and gradually it
may be used as it comes from the fountain.   After
carefully drying the whole body, head and limbs,
another dry soft  cloth, a little warmed, should be
used gently, to take all the damp from the wrinkles
or fat parts that fold together. Then rub the limbs;
but when the body is rubbed, take special care not
to press  upon  the  stomach  or  belly.   On  these
parts the  hand should move in a circle, because
the bowels  lie in that  direction.   If the skin is
chafed, hair-powder  is to be used.  The utmost
tenderness is necessary in  drying the head, and no
binding should be made close about  it.  Squeezing
the head, or combing it roughly, may cause dread-
ful diseases, and even the loss of reason.  A small
soft brush,  lightly applied, is safer than a comb.
Clean clothes every morning and evening will tend
greatly to a child's health  and comfort.
                    Dress.
  With regard to the child's  dress in the day, let
it be a shirt, a petticoat of fine flannel, two or three
inches longer than the child's feet,  with a dimity
top (commonly called a bodice-coal), to tie behind.
Over this  put a robe or  frock, or whatever may
bj convenient,  provided  it  is  fastened behind,
and not rauch longer than the child's feet, that his
motions may be strictly observed.
  Caps may be worn till the hair  is  sufficiently
grown, but by no means till the child has got most
of its teeth.
  The dress for the night may be a shirt,  a blan-
ket to tie on,  and a thin gown to tie over the
blanket.
              The act of dressing.
  Some people in dressing an infant, seem in such
haste as to loss him in a way that must  fatigue and
harass him.  The most tender deliberation should
be observed. In addition to this hurried dressing,
his clothes are often so tight that he  frets and roars.
Pins should never  be used in an infant's clothes;
and every string should be so loosely tied that one
might get two fingers between it and the part where
it is fixed.  Bandages round the head should be
strictly forbidden.   Many instances of idiotism,
fits, and deformity,  are owing to tight bandages."
                     Sleep.
  Infants cannot sleep too long: and it is a favoura-
ble symptom, when  they enjoy a calm and long-
continued rest, of which they should by no  means
be deprived, as this is the greatest support granted
to  them by nature.   A child lives comparatively
 much  taster than an adult; its blood flows more
rapidly; and every stimulus operates more power- 
MEDICINE.
247
fully.  Sleep promotes a more calm and uniform
circulation of the blood, and it facilitates assimi-
lation of the nutriment received.   The horizontal
posture,  likewise, is  the most favourable  to the
growth and bodily development of the infant.
        Duration of,  and  time for sleep.
   Sleep ought to be in proportion to the age of the
infant. After an uninterrupted rest of nine months
in  the womb,  this  salutary refreshment  should
continue to fill  up the greater part of a child's ex-
istence.  A continued watchfulness of twenty-four
hours would prove destructive.  After the  age of
six months, the periods of sleep, as well as all
other animal functions, may in  some degree be
regulated;  yet, even then, a child should be suffer-
ed to sleep the  whole  night, and several hours both
in  the  morning and  afternoon.   Mothers  and
nurses should endeavour to accustom infants from
the time of their birth, to sleep in the night  pre-
ferably to the day, and for this purpose they ought
to remove  all external impressions which may dis-
turb their rest, such as  noise, light, he. but espe-
cially net to obey every call for taking them up,
and giving food at improper times.  After the se-
cond year of their age,  they will  not instinctively
require to  sleep  in  the forenoon, though  after
dinner  it  may be continued  till  the third and
fourth  year of life, if the child shows a particular
inclination to repose;  because till that age, the full
half of its time  may safely be allotted to sleep.
From that  period, however, it ought to be shorten-
ed for the spaee of one hour with  every succeeding
year; so that a  child of seven years old may sleep
about eight, and not exceeding  nine hours; this
proportion may be continued to  the age of ado-
lescence, and even manhood.
               Awaking suddenly.
   To  awaken  children from their sleep  with  a
noise, or in an impetuous manner, is extremely in-
judicious and hurtful,  nor is it proper to carry them
from a dark room immediately into a glaring light,
against a dazzling wall; for the sudden impres- !
sicn of light debilitates the organs of vision, and
lays the foundation of  weak eyes,  from early in-
fancy.
             Restlessness  at night.
   An infant is sometimes very restless at night, and
it is generally owing either to cramming him with
a heavy supper, tight  night clothes, or being over-
heated by too many blankets.  It may also proceed
from putting him to  sleep too early.  He should
be kept awake  till the family are going to rest, and
the house free from noise. Undressing and bathing
will weary and  dispose him for sleep, and the uni-
versal  stillness  will promote it. This habit and all
others depend on attention  at first.  Accustom him
to regular  nours, and  if he  has a good sleep in the
forenoon and  afternoon, it will  be easy to keep
him brisk all the evening.   It is right to offer him
drink when a young infant;  and more solid, though
simple food, when he is going to bed, after he is
two or three months old, but do  not force  him to
receive it; and never let  any thing but the pre-
scription of a  physieiaa in sickness, tempt  the
nurses to  give him wine,  spirits, or any drug to
make him  sleep.   Milk and water, whey, or thin
gruel,  is the only fit liquor for  little ones,  eyeti
when they  can  runabout.   The more simple and
light  their diet  and drink, the more they will
thrive.  Such food will keep the body regular, and
they cannot be  long well if that essential  point is
neglected.
               ^Amusements, &e.
   The bodily education of  boys and girls.ought in
every respect >to ,be uniform.  A great  difference
usually prevails in the education of both sexes dur-
ing infancy.  Parents, being too anxious fpr the
accomplishment of girls, imagine that they must
be kept under a certain restraint.   Boys, in gene-
ral, are not laced, but poor girls are compressed
tight enough to suffocate them;  because it is erro-
neously supposed, that this injudicious  practice
contributes to  an elegant shape, though, ultimate-
ly, the contrary effect is obvious;  as it is the surest
way  of making children  round  shouldered and
deformed.   Girls  are, from  their cradles,  com-
pelled to  a more  sedentary life; and,  with this
intention,  dolls, and other play things, are early
procured:  yet boys are permitted to take  more
frequent exercise.  Thus,  girls  are  confined  in
their apartments, while  boys amuse themselves in
the open air.   Such absurd constraints impede the
free  and progressive evolution  of the different
faculties inherent in the human mind.
                The yellow gum.
  The yellow  gum is known by a yellow linge of
the skin, with  languor and a tendency to sleep.  It
is to be relieved by giving a tea-spoonful or more
of castor oil, to clear the intestines.   When the
disease does not give way to this treatment, 8 drops
of antimonial wine are to be given in a tea-spoon-
ful of water,  so as to prove emetic.  In about
eight or ten hours, this is to be followed by half a
grain of calomel, or 4 grains of rhubarb.
                   Vomiting.
  When the food is vomited in an unaltered state,
it is generally a sign of over-feeding: but when the
vomiting is bilious, or  when the food is partly
digested, the  diet ought  to  be changed,  and the
bowels opened by 1 grain of calomel given  in
sugar.  This is to be followed by a tea-spoonful of
castor oil on the following morning.   If the vom-
iting  should still continue, give a gentle  emetic,
and the calomel powder (containing 1 or 2 grains,
according to the age) soon after, if there be much
irritation,  apply a blister to the stomach;  and,  if
possible, give a tea-spoonful of the saline medicine,
in a state of effervescence, and containing 2 drops
of laudanum.
                   Hiccups.
  These generally arise from acidity in  the sto-
mach, and may be remedied by the administration
of 8  grains of prepared  chalk  wilh  2 grains  of
powdered rhubarb, given in a little syrup or gruel.
If very severe, the stomach is to be rubbed with a
little soap liniment, or opodeldoc, to which a little
laudanum has been added.
            Griping and flatulency.
  These are known by conti.iual  crying,  restless-
ness, and drawing up of the legs.   When attended
by diarhcea and green  stools, it is to  be relieved,
in general, by the administration  of a few grains
of rhubarb and magnesia.  If sour belchings, &c.
still continue,  it will be proper to  give a tea-spoon-
ful every quarter of an  hour, of weak solution of
tartar emetic,  until the child vomits.   After this,
particularly if there be any purging, it will be pro-
per to give a little rhubarb and  magnesia again,
and now and then a little chalk  mixture.
              Absorbent mixture.
  If the pains are very great so as to make the
child scream  violently, two tea-spoonsful  of the
following mixture, with 5 or 6 drops of laudanum,
may be given  directly: Mix together, prepared
chalk, 1 scruple, tincture  of caraway seeds, 3 dr.
compound spirit of lavender, 1 do. and of pepper-
mint water, 2 oz.
  As soon as there is diminution of pain, a purga-
tive should be given,  particularly if the bowels
happen to be in a costive state.  The  best will be
castor oil.  The above mixture may afterwards be
occasionally continued, but without the laudanum.
                  Diarrhoea.
  Tttis may, in general, if tbe stools are green, 
248
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 be relieved by a  brisk  purgative, of from 1 to 2
 grains of calomel, with 4 or 5 of rhubarb, accord-
 ing to the age of the  child.  The absorbent mix-
 ture is then to  be given as before directed.
               Further remedies.
   When the stools are very frequent and are either
 slimy or tinged with  blood,  it  will be proper to
 give 5 grains of rhubarb  every 6  hours, the food
 being  beef tea, sago, isinglass  in  milk or  calf's
 foot jelly, the body being wrapped in warm flannel.
 A small blister may likewise be applied to th;.' bel-
 ly; and a dessert spoonful of the following tonic
 and  astringent mixture  is to be  given every six
 hours: Mix together, tincture of rind, 1 drachm,
 chalk mixture, 2 oz. laudanum, 12drops, and cin-
 namon Avater, 1 ez.
                 Opiate clyster.
   If the fluid stools are ejected with great force a
 clyster  should  be given,  composed of half a tea-
 cupful of  boiled starch, and 20 drops of laudanum.
 This may be repeated at an interval of 8 hours, if
 the symptoms do not abate.
            Excoriations of the skin.
   Children are  apt to be chafed between the thighs,
 behind the ears, and in the wrinkles of  the  neck,
 from want of proper attention  to cleanliness.   In
 such cases it wdl  be  necessary to bathe the parts
 twice a day, (or every time that the child's things
 are changed) with a little warm milk and water;
 and to apply a puff with  a little hair powder im-
 mediately afterwards,  so  as to keep the parts dry.
 —When discharges take place behind the ears,
 they must not be dried up too suddenly, as such a
 circumstance might  produce a diversion  to  the
 brain.   In such cases it will be always best to give
 frequent doses of castor oil,  or  calomel,  every
night,  in  the proportion of 1 grain to 3 grains of
rhubarb.
              Cutaneous eruptions.
   No real danger attends these eruptions, which
 are generally  known  by the names of  red-gum,
nettle-rash, he.  All  that  is required to be done
 is to keep the bowels open by  such means as are
 prescribed in the  foregoing article, and to guard
against  cold, which  might drive the eruption in-
wardly, and so  produce internal  inflammations of
a critical nature;  If the milk or food be consider-
ed the cause, the nurse, or diet, ought to be chang-
ed: and if sickness and vomiting should prevail,
it will  be  proper to give the absorbent mixture
mentioned under the head Griping and Flatulency.
                  The thrush.
  This disease  makes its  appearance  by little ul-
cerations  in the  mouth,  tongue,  he. of a Avhite
colour,  and sometimes of a  yellow  appearance.
They are generally owing to acidities in the sto-
 mach, he.
  In this  disorder nothing avails more than an
emetic at first,  and then a little magnesia and rhu-
barb,  (if  there is diarrhoea) with  thin chicken-
water as drink.  Testaceous powders, or the ab-
 sorbent mixture (see Griping and Fmtulency), will
also be proper.   If there is no looseness, it will be
proper to give a grain  or two of calomel, with 3 or
4 grainc of rhubarb. The mouth and throat should
at the same time be cleansed by gargles.
            Sy~~up of black currants.
  Take of the juice of black currants, strained,  1
 pint, double refined sugar, 24 oz.  Dissolve the
 sugar, and boil to make a syrup.
   A tea-spoonful of this to be given to children in
the thrush.
        Falling down  of the fundament.
   This  happens frequently  to  children who cry
 much, or who have had a diarrhoea, or from strain-
ing on going to stool.   If it proceed from costive-
Bess, give lenitive clysters.  In case the gut be
 swelled or inflamed, foment Avith  warm milk, of
 decoction of oak bark, or wash  frequently with
 cold water.   The protruded parts are now to be
 replaced by the finger, and supported by a truss or
 bandage.  The internal use of tonics will be proper
                   Dentition.
  When children are  about cutting their  teeth,
 they  slaver much,  are  feverish, hot, and uneasy;
 their gums  swell, and  are very painful; they are
 sometimes loose in  the bowels, and  at other times
 costive; now and then convulsions come on.
  Leeches are often of  use applied  behind  the
 ears; also blisters.
              Scarifying the gums.
  Instead of giving' narcotics to children cutting
 their teeth, it is strenuously  recommended to have
 Ihe tumid gums  divided  by a lancet down  to the
 tooth;  an operation at once safe and unattended
 w/th pa!n. If done in time, by removing the cause
 of the complaint, all the symptoms will disappear
 of themselves.   Instead of giving  preparations of
 opium,  it Avill be found, in the majority of  cases,
 far better to administer calomel, in minute doses,
 as this medicine is well knoAvn to possess peculiar
 efficacy in  promoting  absorption in these  parts.
 The body,  if costive,   should  be kept regularly
 open, and if there should be looseness of the bow-
 els, it should by no  means be discouraged. Instead
 of coral or any  other hard body, let the child nib-
 ble at a piece of wax candle.
                 Convulsions.
  Children are  particularly liable to convulsions at
 the period  of  teething, small  pox, measles,  and
 other eruptive diseases; sometimes, also, from  ex-
 ternal causes, such as strait clothes, bandages,  &c.
 When they proceed from any of these, bathing the
 feet, or the whole body, in warm water, of 92 or 94
 degrees, and administering  a  mild clyster, will
 almost immediately relieve them.   To shorten the
 duration of  the fit,  cold water should be poured
 over the face and neck, whilst the rest of the body
 is in the bath.
  The return  of convulsions  is  to be  prevented
only by the removal of the cause of the existing ir-
ritation; but, in general,  when the body is kept
carefully open,  there will  be little cause to fear  a
return.
                 Inwardflts.
  In these fits the infant appears as  if asleep,  the
 eyelids, however, are  not quite closed, but fre-
quently twinkle, and show the wnites  turned  up-
 wards.  The muscles  of  the face are sometimes
 slightly distorted, the mouth having the  appear-
 ance ofa laugh or smile.  The breath is sometimes
 very quick, and at others stops for a time; whils»
 the eyelids and  lips  are  pale and dark alternately.
 The infant startles  on the least  noise, and sighs
deeply or breaks wind.   This relieves  him for  a
little, but he soon relapses into a dose.  Whenever
the  above mentioned symptoms  are observed; it
 will be right to awaken  the  infant, by  stirring or
otherwise, and to rub its hack and belly well  be-
fore  the fire, until  wind escapes.  At the same
time, it will be proper to give Iwf a tea-spoonful
of drink or pap, containing 2 drov,s of oil of anise
or caraways. As soon after as possible, a purgative
of castor oil, or a grain or two of calomel (accord-
ing to the age), with two  or three grains of rhu-
barb, is to be given, to empty the  bowels of  what-
 ever crude matter may occasion the disorder.
                 'J'he rickets.
  This disorder affects the bones of children,  and
causes a considerable protuberance, incurvation, or
 distortion of them.  It may arise from  various
 causes,  but  more particularly  when proper care
 has not been taken with children: when they have
 been too tightly swathed in  some parts, and  too 
MEDICINE.
249
 loose in others; keeping them too long in one and
 the same position; and not keeping them clean and
 dry.   Sometimes it may proceed from a lax habit,
 ftt others from costiveness.
   It  usually appears about  the eighth or ninth
 month, and continues to the  sixth or seventh year
 of the child's age.  The head becomes large, and
 the fontanelle keeps long open; the countenance is
 full and florid; the joints knotty and distorted, espe-
 cially about the wrists;  less near the ankles.  The
 ribs  protuberate, and  grow crooked;  the belly
 swells; cough and disorder of the lungs succeed;
 and  there is, withal, a very early understanding,
 and  the child moves but weakly, and waddles in
 walking.
   Regimen*, &c.—The  regimen  should be  light
 and properly seasoned;  the air dry and clear; exer-
 cise and motion should be encouraged, and ban-
'dages, as well as  instruments, contrived to keep
'the limbs >in a proper situation; but we should take
■ care that they be so formed as not to put the child
 to pain,  or restrain it too much.
   Cold sea-bathing is of infinite use; after which,
 friction  should  be used, and lae child placed be-
 tween two blankets, so as to encourage perspiration.
 The back should be  well rubbed with opodeldoc,
 or good old rum, every night.
  A few grains  of ipecacuanha, or  calomel, may
 now and then be proper, and chalybeates are also
 very serviceable.
  A  decoction  of Peruvian bark is also  good,
 with red wine: it is to be used with moderation in
 tlie forenoou and after dinner.
             Distortion of the spine.
  Dr Weitch, an eminent physician of Berlin, has
 published iu Hufeland's journal, a simple remedy
 for weakness of the back-bone of infants, and which
 he considers capable of  preventing distortion. This
 method consists, first, in frequent and close exa-
 mination of the child's back-bone; and  secondly,
 on the slightest trace of any distortion, to wash the
 same with  brandy every morning and night, and
 to pay the strictest attention to the child's keeping
 a straight posture both sleeping and Avaking; and if
 it can be bathed from time to time, it will be  so
 much the better.
         Jelly from the  raspings of ivory.
  The raspings of ivory impart to boiling water a
 very  pleasant jelly, which has  been  found more
 easy of digestion, and more nutritious than that of
 the hartshorn  shavings, or isinglass.   Mixed Avith
 the jelly of the arrow-root, in the proportion of one
 part to seven, it is much recommended for Aveakly
 and  rieketty children,  and  consumptive or ema-
 ciated invalids.
            Ringworm and scald head.
  It is well known that these disorders, which are
 in many respects similar, are  contagious; therefore,
 no  comb or hair-brush, used by a child affected
 by them, is to be used by another child either in a
 school or in the same family.  Nor should the hat
 oi' cap of such a child be worn by any other.
   Treatment.—The intractableness  of most chil-
 dren, Avhen attempted to be controlled or governed
 by the accustomed mode of treatment, proves,  in
 most instances, a material obstacle  in the way of
 curing this malignant  disease;  and  the quickness
 with which the hair of the scalp grows in children,
 has  hitherto,  in most  instances, rendered every
 effort ineffectual.  It was a constant failure, under
 these inauspicious circumstances, that led Mr Bar-
 low, a medical  professor in  Lancashire, to adopt
 the subjoined lotion:—Take  ol sulphate of potass,
 recently prepared, 3 drachms; Spanish white soap,
 1^ do.; lime-water,  7\ oz.;  and spirit of wine, 2
 drachms.  Mix, by shaking well in a phial.
   By bathing the affected head with this lotion a
       2 G
 feAV times, morning and evening, and suffering the
 parts to dn- without interruption, the scabs will
 decorticate and  peel  off from the  scalp, and leave
 the parts underneath perfectly healed; without tor-
 turing the patient either by shaving the head or cut-
 ting off the hair.
             Ointment for the same.
   Take of spermaceti  ointment,  1 oz.; tar oint-
 ment, 1 oz.; powdered angustura bark, 3 drachms.
 Rub the whole well in a marble mortar, and apply
 to the parts affected.
              Alterative medicines.
   In  six cases out often, this disease is aggravated
 by a scrofulous taint of the system; and when this
 is the case, the following alterative medicine acce-
 lerates the cure.
   Take of oxide of zinc, precipitated sulphur of
 antimony, each, 9  grains; resin of guaiacum, ex-
 tract  of bark, extrkct  of hemlock, each, 2 scruples.
 Mix, and form into 20 pills.
   To children  from six to ten years of age, give
 one pill night and morning; under six years, half
 a pill night, and  morning,  mixed  in raspberry
 jam.
   Instead of the above, 1  grain of calomel  may be
 given going to rest, and repeated every night; alsl
 the use of salt water externally and internally, as
 an alterative, has been found very useful.
   In  all cases the bowels  ought to be kept open,
 and the diet should consist of wholesome and nu-
 tritive food; avoiding fish and salt meats.  Cleanli-
 ness  and  occasional use of  the  warm bath will
 likewise be of service.
                 Hooping cough.
   This convulsive cough is occasioned  by a viscid
 matter which cannot be easily expectorated.  The
 poor infant, in endeavouring to bring it up, strains
 violently, till he  becomes  almost suffocated  and
 convulsed.
   Remedies.—In this complaint, next to occasional
 vomiting, the daily use of the warm bath  is most
 useful. Bleeding  may sometimes be useful, to pre-
 vent  inflammation of the internal membranes, or
 cupping between the neck and shoulders.   Gentle
 antimonial  emetics should be  given  repeatedly,
 because the symptoms are always  relieved when
 the child vomits.
   Another.—Dissolve a scruple of salt of tartar in
 a pint of water, add ten grains of cochineal, finely
 powdered; sweeten this with  sugar.  Give an  in-
 fant the fourth part of a table-spoonful four times
 a day.  To a child two or three years old, half a
 spoonful; and to a child four years old  or upwards,
 a spoonful. The relief will be immediate, and th*>
 cure, generally, in three or four days.
   To the above  may be added, as auxiliaries, a
 Burgundy pitch plaster on the pit  of the stomach,
 a flannel Avaistcoat or shirt next  the skin, and a
 change of air when practicable.  The diet should
 be light  and easy of digestion,  avoiding every
 thing of a fit and oily nature.
         Embrocation for hooping cough.
   Take of emetic tartar, 2 drachms,  boiling water,
 2 oz. tincture of cantharides,  1  drachm, oil  of
 wild thyme, 3 drachms.   Mix.  A dessert-spoon-
 ful to be rubbed  upon the  chest every night and
 morning.
        Regimen, &?c. for hooping cough.
   A  frequent change of air is exceedingly useful
 in hosping cough, particularly short voyages at
 sea;  at the same time flannel is to  be.  Avorn  next
 the skin. ' Young  children should  lie with  their
 heads and shoulders raised; and when the cough
 occurs, they ought to be placed on their feet and
 bent  a little forward, to guard against suffocation.
 The  diet should be light, and the drink warm and
i mucilaginous. 
260
UNIVEIISAL RECEIPT BOOK.
                   The croup.
   This disease is peculiar  to children, and gene-
 rally fatal, if care is not taken in the commence-
 ment.  It  commonly approaches  with  the usual
 signs  of a catarrh,  but sometimes  the peculiar
 symptoms  occur  at the first  onset;  namely, a
 hoarseness, Avith a shrill  ringing  sound  both  in
 speaking and coughing, as if the noise came from
 a brazen tube.  At the same time  there is a serse
 of pain about the larynx,  and some  difficulty of
 respiration, with a whizzing sound in inspiration,
 as if the passage of air was diminished:  which is
 actually the case.  The cough is  generally dry,
 but if any thing is spit up,  it is a purulent matter,
 sometimes resembling  small  portions of a mem-
 brane. There is also a frequent pulse, restlessness,
 and  an uneasy  sense of heat.  The inside of the
 mouth is sometimes without inflammation, but fre-
 quently a  redness, ami even  a swelling, exist.
 Sometimes there  is an  appearance of matter  on
 them, like that rejected by coughing.
  Remedies.—A.s  soon as possible  a brisk emetic
 should be administered, for the purpose of freeing
 the patient from the coagulable lymph which is  al-
 ready  secreted.  Topic .1 bleeding, by means  of
 leeches, should immediately succeed, and the dis-
 charge be encouraged.   As soon as it  diminishes,
 a blister, so large as to cover the whole throat,
 should be applied, and suffered to lie on for thirty
 hours  or longer.  Then warm steam should  be
 inhaled,  and the bowels should be evacuated  by
 calomel.
  As soon as the emetic has operated sufficiently,
 opium may be administered, by Avhich means the
 breathing will  in  general be  soon relieved; but
 should it. become more difficult in  the course of a
 few hours, the emetic is to be again repeated, and
after  its operation the opium again employed.
This  practice is to be alternately  used till such
time as the patient is out of danger, which will in
general be in  the course of three or four days.
The child should be kept nearly upright in bed.
  Another  remedy.—Administer   two grains  of
 calomel every  four hours,  until the  decline  of
the disorder's severity.  As an adjunct, apply an
ointment to the breast,  composed  of  5 grains  of
emetic tartar, and 5 grains of powdered opium, to a
drachm of spermaceti cerate, until eruptions are
excited on the skin.
         USEFUL DOMESTIC MEDICINES.

           Dover's sudorific  powder.
  Take of ipecacuanha iu powder, opium (purified),
each 1 part, sulphate of potass, 8 parts.  Triturate
ihem together into a fine powder.
  The dose is from 2 lo 5 grains, repeated accord-
ing as the patient's stomach and strength can bear
it.  It is proper to avoid much drinking immedi-
ately after taking it, otherwise it is very apt to be
rejected by vomiting, before any other effects are
produced."  Perspiration  should be  kept  up  by
diluents.
           Aloetic powder -with iron.
  Take  of socotrine  aloei,  powdered, 1$  oz.
myrrh, powdered,  2 oz.  exti act of gentian and
sulphate, each in powder, 1 oz.  Mix them.
  In this powder we have an aloetic and chalybe-
ate conjoined. It is an useful medicine, and is par-
ticularly employed in  cases of obstructed men-
struation.
           Compound assafcetida pills.
  Take of  assafcetida, galbanum, and myrrh, each
1 oz.  rectified oil of amber; 1 drachm. Beat them
into a mass Avith simple syrup.
  These pills are antihysteric and emmenagogue,
I and are very well calculated for answering those
i intentions; half a scruple, a scruple, or more, may
 be taken every night, or oftener.
              Compound aloetic puis.
   Take of hepatic aloes, 1 oz.  ginger  poAvdpr, 1
 drachm,  soap, £ oz.  essential oil of peppermint,
 ^ drachm.
   Let the aloes and the ginger be rubbed well  to-
 gether, then add the soap and the oil, so as to form
 a mass.   ■
   These pills may be advantageously used for ob-
 viating the habitual costiveness  of  sedentary per-
 sons.   The dose is from 10 to 15 grains.
             Aloetic and myrrh  pills.
   Take of socotrine aloes,  4 drachms, myrrh, 2
 drachms,  saffron, 1 drachm.   Beat  them into a
 mass with simple syrup.
   Tfose pills have been long employed to stimu-
 late and open the bowels in chlorotic,  hypochon-
 driacal, and long diseased uabits. The dose is from
 10 grains to a scruple, twice a day.
                Plummer's pills.
   These pills are alterative, diaphoretic, purga-
 tive, and beneficial in cutaneous eruptions, &c.
   Take of calomel, 1  drachm, sulphate of anti-
 mony, 1 do.  gum guaiacum, 2 drachms.
   Mix these assiduously with mucilage, and divide
 into 60 pills, two pills  forming the  dose.  To be
 taken  at night.
            Compound soap liniment.
   Take of camphor, 1 oz. soap, 3 oz. spirit  of
 rosemary, 1 pint.
   Digest the soap in the spirit of rosemary until it
 be dissolv?d, and add to it the camphor.  This  is
 useful to excite action on the surface, and is used
 to disperse scrofulous enlargements, and to moist-
 en flannel which  is applied to the throat in cases
 of quinsy.
               Cajeput opodeldoc.
   Take  of almond soap,  2 oz. alcohol, 1 pint,
 camphor, I oz. cajeput oil, 2 oz.
   First dissolve the soap and camphor in the alco-
 hol in  a retort, by means of a sand heat, and when
 the solution is about to congeal, or becomes nearly
 cold, add the oil of cajeput: shake  them Avell to-
 gether, and put it into bottles to congeal.
   This composition is a great improvement on the
 opodeldocs in  general  use, and in  cases of rheu-
 matism, paralytic numbness, chilblains,  enlarge-
 ments of joints, and indolent tumours,  where Ihe
 object is to rouse the action of  absorbent vessels,
 and to stimulate  the  nerves, it is a very valuable
 external remedy.
   In  several cases of lumbago and  deep seated
 rheumatic pains,  it has been known to  succeed in
 the almost immediate removal of the disease.
             Liniment of ammonia.
   Take  of water of ammonia, £ an oz.  olive oil,
 l£oz.
   Shake them  together in a phial till th^y  are
 mixed.
   In the inflammatory quinsy, a piece  of flannel,
 moistened with this mixture, applied to  the throat,
 and renewed every four or five hours, is one of the
 most efficacious remedies.  By means of this warm
 stimulating application,  the neck, and  sometimes
 the whole body,  is put into a sweat,  which, after
 bleeding, either carries off or lessens the inflam-
 mation.   Where the skin cannot bear the acrimo-
 ny of this mixture, a larger proportion of oil may
 be used.
                  Eau-de-luce.
   Ten or twelve  grains of white soap are dissolv-
 ed in 4 oz. of rectified spirit of  wine; after which
 the solution is strained.   A drachm of rectified
 oil of amber is then added, and the  whole filtered:
 with this solution should be mixed  such a propor- 
MEDICINE.
251
tion of the strongest volatile spirit of ammonia, in
a clear glass uottle, as will, when sufficiently shak-
en, produce a beautiful milk-white  liquor.  If a
kind of cream should settle on the surface, it will
be requisite to add a small quantity of the spiritu-
ous solution of soap. Those who may wish to have
this liquor water perfumed, may employ lavender
or Hungary water, instead of the spirit of wine.
  This composition is, however, seldom obtained
in a  genuine state when purchased at  the shops.
Its use, as an external remedy,  is very extensive:
for it has  not only been employed for curing  the
bites of vipers, wasps, bees, gnats, ants, and other
insects, but also for burns, and even the bite of a
mad dog,  though not always with uniform success.
Besides,  it affords one  of the safest stimulants in
cases of suffocation from mephitic vapours, and in
that state  of apoplexy which is termed  serous, as
likewise  after excessive  intoxication,  and  in  all
those paralytic complaints Avhere the vessels of the
skin, or the muscular fibre require to be excited
into action.
               Simple ointment.
   Take of olive oil, 5 oz. white Avax, 2 oz.  This
is a  useful emollient ointment for  softening  the
skin.
             Ointment of hog's lard.
   Take of prepared hog's lard, 2 lbs. rose-water,
5 oz. Beat the lard with the rose-water until they
be mixed: then melt the mixture with a slow fire,
and set it apart that the Avater may subside; after
which,  pour off the lard from the water, constant-
ly stirring until it be cold.
   This ointment  may  be used for softening  the
skin, and healing chaps.
                   lAp salve.
   Melt together  1\ oz.  of white wa*',  3 oz.  of
spermaceti, 7 oz. oil of almonds, 1 dr. of balsam
of Peru, and l£ oz. of alkanet root wrapped up in
a  linen bag.
   Pour the salve into small gallipots or boxes, and
cover with bladder and white leather.
      Basilicon, or yellow resinous ointment.
   Take of yellow  resin, 1 lb. yellow wax, 1  do.
olive oil,  I pint.   Melt the resin and wax with a
gentle  heat; then  add the oil, and strain the mix-
ture while yet warm.
   This plaster is employed for the dressing of brok-
en chilblains, and other sores that require stimu-
lating; it is also used to  drive milk away, being
placed over the tumid breasts when the child is
weaned.
                Turner's cerate.
   This ointment is  known by the vulgar name of
turner's  cerate, as curing the wounds of turners.
It js generally used for broken chilblains.
   Take of prepared calamine, yellow wax, each
 £ lb. olive oil, 1 pint.
   Melt the wax with the oil, and as  soon as they
 begin  to  thicken,  sprinkle in  the prepared cala-
 mine and keep it  stirring till the cerate is cool.
                 Savin ointment.  ■
   Take of fresh savin leaves, separated from  the
 stalks, and bruised,  ^ lb.; prepared hogs' lard, 2
 lbs.; yellow wax,  \ lb.   Boil the leaves in the lard
 until  they beccme crisp; then filter with  expres-
 sion;  lastly,  add  the wax,  and  melt them  to-
 gether.
   This is an excellent issue ointment, being, in
 many  respects, preferable to those of cantharides.
 It is mixed with equal parts of blistering ointment,
 in orderto keep up a discharge.
               Mercurial ointment.
   Take of mercury, and  mutton suet, each, 1 part;
 hogs'  lard, 3 parts.   Rub the mercury diligently
 in a mortar wilh a little of the hog's lard, until the
globules  disappear; then add the remainder of the
lard, and rub until the ointment is completely prt.
pared.
  One  drachm of this ointment  contains  tAvelvc
grains of mercury.
  The preparation of mercurial ointment requires
much labour, care, and patience.   During the tri'
titration, the mercury is mechanically divided into
minute globules, which are prevented from running
together again by the viscosity of the fat.  These
globules at  length  disappear, being  oxidized, or
rendered black by intimate mixture with the lard.
Whatever tends  to  favour  this,  (for instance, a
slight degree  of rancidity of the lard,) shortens
the time, and lessens the  labour  required for the
preparation of the ointment.  It is not uncommon,
however, to use other means, which are not admis-
sible, to facilitate  the  process, such as the use of
sulphur or turpentine.  The first may be detected
by the very black colour of the ointment, and also
by the  sulphurous odour exhaled  when a  paper
covered with a  little  of it is held over the flame of
a candle.  The turpentine is detected by its odour
also, when the  ointment containing it is treated in
the same manner.
  When viewly prepared, mercurial ointment has
a light  grey or bluish colour, owing to its con-
taining some unoxidized metal, which separates in
globules when it is liquefied by a gentle heat: when
kept for some time,  the colour is  much deepened,
and less  metallic mercury  is seen, owing to the
more complete oxidizement of the metal.
            Cerate of Spanish flies.
  Take of  cerate of spermaceti,  softened with
heat, 6  drachms; Spanish flies, finely powdered,
one drachm.  Mix them by melting over a gentle
fire.
   Under this form,  cantharides may be made to
act to any extent that is requisite.  It may supply
the place either of the blistering plaster or oint-
ment; and there are  cases in which it is preferable
to  either.   It  is, particularly, more convenient
than the plaster of cantharides, where the skin to
which the blister is to be applied, is previously
much affected, as in cases  ot small-pox:  and in
supporting a drain  under the form of issue,  it is
less apt to spread than the softer ointment.
       Compound Burgundy pitch plaster.
   Take of Burgundy pitch, 2 lbs. labdanum, I lb.
yellow resin, and yelloAV wax, each, 4 oz. express-
ed oil of mace, 1 oz.
   To the pitch, resin, and  wax  melted  together,
add first the labdanum, anil then  the oil of mace.
   After a long continued cojgh  in  the  winter, a
Burgundy pitch  plaster should  be put over the
breast bone.
         Compound labdanum plaster.
   Take of labdanum, 3  oz. Irankiuconse,  1  oz;
cinnamon, powdered, expressed oil of mace, each
^ oz.- essential  oil of mint, 1 dr.
   To the melted frankincense add first the labda-
num, softened  by heat, then  the oil of mace. Mix
these afterwards with the cinnamon and oil of mint,
and beat  tnem together,  in a warm  mortar, into
a plaster.  Let it be kept in a close vessel.
   This has been considered as a  very elegant sto-
mach plaster.  It is contrived  so as to  be easily
made occasionally (for these  kinds of compositions
on account of their  volatile ingredients are not fit
for keeping), and to be but  moderately  adhesive,
so as not to offend the skin, also that it may, with-
out difficulty, be frequently renewed; which these
applications, in order to their producing any con-
siderable effect, require to be.   They keep up a
perspiration over the part affected, and create a lo-
cal action, which diverts  inflammation; consump-
tion from colds, in delicate habits, is by such means
frequently obviated. 
252
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
                Adhesive plaster.
   Take of common, or litharge plaster, 5 parts,
 Avhite resin, 1 part.
   Melt them together, and spread the liquid com-
 pound thin, on strips of linen, by means of a spa-
 tula, or table-knife.
   This  plaster is  very adhesive, and is used for
 keeping on other dressings, &c.
                 Court plaster.
   B:uise a sufficient quantity of fish glue, and let
 it soak for twenty-four hours in a little warm water;
 expose  it to  heat over the fire, to  dissipate the
 greater  part of the water, and  supply its place by
 colourless brandy,  which will miv the gelatine of
 the glue.  Strain the whole through a piece of
 open lihen; on  cooling, it will  form a  trembling
 jelly.
   Now extend a piece of black  silk on a wooden
 frame, and fix it in that position by means of tacks,
 or pack  thread.   Then with a brush  made of
 badger's hair  apply the glue, after it has been ex-
 posed to a gentle heat to  render it liquid.  When
 this stratum is dry, which will soon be the case,
 apply a  second, and then a third, if necessary, to
 give the plaster a certain thickness, as soon as the
 .vhole is dry,  cover it with two or three  strata ofa
 strong tincture of balsam of Peru.
   This is the  real English court plaster: it is plia-
 ble, and  neA'er breaks, characters which distinguish
 it from so many other preparations sold  under the
 same name.             .
         Compound tincture of rhubdrb.
   Take  of rhubarb,  sliced,  2 oz. liquorice  root,
 bruised, ■£ oz. ginger, powdered, saffron, each 2
 dr. distilled water,  1 pint, proof spirit of wine, 12
 oz. by measure.
   Digest for 14 days,  and strain.  Dose, \ an oz.
 as an aperient, or 1 oz. in violent diarrhoea.
              Tincture of ginger.
   Take  of ginger,  in coarse powder, 2  oz. proof
 spirit, 2 pints.
   Digest in a gentle heat, for 7 days, and strain.
   This tincture is  cordial and stimulant,  and is
 generally employed as a corrective  to  purgative
 draughts.
           Compound tincture of senna.
   Take  of senna leaves,  2  oz. jalap root, 1 oz.
 coriander seeds, * oz. proof  spirit, 2£ pints.
   Digest for seven days, and  to the strained liquor
 add 4 ounces of sugar candy.
   This  tincture is an useful carminative and ca-
 thartic, especially to  those who have accustomed
 themselves to the use of spirituous liquors; it often
 relieves  flatulent complaints  and colics, where the
 common cordials have little effect; the dose is from
 1 to 2 ounces.   It is a very  useful addition to the
 castor-oil,  in order  to take off its mawkish  taste;
 and, as coinciding with the virtues of the oil,  it is
 therefore much preferable to brandy, shrub, and
 such like liquors, which otherwise are often found
 necessary to make the oil  sit on the stomach.
                 Daffy's  elixir.
   Take  of senna, 2 lbs. rhubarb  shavings, 2  lbs.
jalap  root, 1 lb.  caraway seeds,  I lb. aniseeds, 2
 lbs. sugar, 4 lbs. shavings of red sanders wood,
 i lb.
   Digest these in 10 gallons of spirit of  wine, for
 14 days, arid strain  for use.
   This elixir  possesses almost the same qualities
 as the Compound Tincture of Senna.   The above
 quantities  may be  reduced  to  as small a scale as
 may be required.
                The black drop.
   Take half a pound of opium, sliced, three pinttf
 of good verjuice, one and a half ounces of nutmeg,
 and half an oz. of  saffron; boil them to a proper
 thickness,  then add a quarter of a pound of sugar
 and  two spoonsful of yeast.   Set the whole in a
 warm place, near the fire, for six or eight Aveeks,
 then place it in the open air until it becomes of ihe
 consistence  of a  syrup; lastly, decant, filter, and
 bottle it up, adding a little sugar to each bottle.
   The above ingredients ought to yield, when pro-
 perly made, about two pints of the strained liquor.
                Godfrey's  cordial.
   Dissolve $ an oz. of opium, 1  drachm of oil of
 sassafras, in 2 ounces of  spirit  of  wine.  Now
 mix  4  lbs.   of treacle,  with  1  gallon  of boiling
 water, and when cold, mix  both solutions.  This
 is generally used to soothe the pains  of children,
 &o.
               Balsam of honey.
   Take of balsam of Tolu,  2 oz. gum storax, 2
 drachms, opium, 2 do.  honey,  8 oz.  Dissolve
 these in a quart of spirit of wine.
   This balsam  is exceedingly useful  in  allaying
 the irritation of cough.   The dose is 1 or 2 tea-
 spoonsful in  a little tea, or warm water.
         Tincture of the balsam of I olu.
   Take of balsam of Tolu, 1 oz. alcohol, 1 pint.
 Digest  until the  balsam  be  dissolved, and then
 strain the tincture through a paper.
   This solution of the balsam of Tolu possesses
 all the  virtues of the balsam itself.  It  may be
 taken internally,  with the several intentions for
 which that balsam is proper, to  the quantity of a
 tea-spoonful  or two, in any convenient vehicle.
   Mixed with simple syrup, it forms an agreeable
 balsamic syrup.
          Tincture of Peruvian bark.
   Take of Peruvian bark, 4 oz. proof spirit,  2
 pints.  Digest for ten days, and strain.
   It may be given from a lea-spoonful to \ an oz.
 or an ounce,  according to the different purposes it
 is intended to answer.
          Huxham's tincture of bark.
   Take of Peruvian  bark, powdered, 2  oz. the
 peel of Seville  oranges, dried, 1§ do.   Virginian
 snake root, bruised, 3 drachms, saffron, 1  do. co-
 chineal, powdered, 2 scruples, proof spirit, 20 oz.
 Digest for 14 days, and strain.
   As a corroborant and stomachic, it is given in
 doses of two or three drachms; but when employed
 for the cure of intermittent fevers, it must be taken
 to a greater extent.
             Tincture of guaiacum.
   Take of guaiacum, 4 ounces, rectified  spirit of
 wine, 2 pints.  Digest for seven days, and filter.
   What is called  gum guaiacum is, in fact, a resin,
 and perfectly soluble in alcohol.  This solution is
 a powerful stimulating sudorific, and may be given
 in doses of about J an ounce in rheumatic and
 asthmatic cases.
       Ammoniated tincture of guaiacum.
   Take of resin  of guaiacum, in powder, 4 oz.
 ammoniated  alcohol, in  powder, 1^ lbs.   Digest
 for seven days, and filter through a paper.
   This  is a very elegant and  efficacious tincture;
 the ammoniated spirit readily dissolving the resin,
 and, at the same time, promoting its medical vir-
 tues.  In rheumatic cases,  a tea, or even table-
 spoonful, taken every morning and evening, in any
 convenient vehicle,  particularly in  milk,  has
proved of singular service.
         Compound tincture of benzoin.
  Take of benzoin, 3 oz. purified storax,  2 oz.
balsam of Tolu, 1  oz. socotrine aloes, ^an oz. rec-
tified spirit  of wine, 2 pints.  Digest for seven
 days, and filter.
   This preparation may be considered  as  an ele-
gant simplification of some very complicated com-
positions, which  were celebrated  under  different
names; such as Baume de Corhmandeur,  Wade's
Balsam,  Friar's   Balsam,  Jesuit's  Drops,  he. 
MEDICINE.
263
These, in general, consisted of a confused farrago
of discordant substances.  The dose is a tea-spoon-
ful in some warm water four times a day, in eon-
sumptions and spitting of  blood. It is useful, also,
when applied on lint, to recent wounds, and serves
the purpose of a scab, but must not be soon remov-
ed.  Poured on sugar it removes spitting of blood
immediately.
              Tincture of catechu.
  Take Of extract  of  catechu,  3 oz. cinnamon,
bruised, 2 oz. diluted alcohol, 2 pints. Digest for
seven days, and strain through paper.
  The cinnamon is a very useful addition  to the
catechu, not only as it warms  the  stomach, but
likewise as it covers its roughness and astffngency.
  This tincture is  of service in all kinds of de-
fluxions, catarrhs, loosenesses, and other disorders
where astringent medicines are  indicated.   Two
or three tea-spoonsful may be taken every now and
then, in red wine, or any other proper vehicle.
           Godbold's vegetable balsam.
   A pound of sugar-candy, dissolved by heat, in a
quantity of white wine vinegar, and evaporated to
the measure of 1 pint, during which operation as
much garlie as  possible  is dissolved  with it, an-
swers  all the purposes of Godbold's Vegetable
Balsam, and is probably the same medicine.
                Spirit of nutmeg.
  Take of bruised  nutmegs, 2  oz. proof spirit, 1
gallon, water sufficient to prevent burning.   Distil
off a gallon.
  This is used to take off the bad flavour of medi-
cine, and  is a grateful  cordial.
                Lavender water.
   The common mode of preparing this, is to put
3 drachms of the essential oil of lavender, and a
drachm of the essence of ambergris, into 1 pint of
spirit  of wine.
            Water of pure ammonia.
   Take of sal-ammoniac, 1 lb. quick-lime, 2 lbs.
 water, 1 gallon.  Add to the lime two pints of the
 water.  Let them stand together an hour: then add
 the  sal-ammoniac and  the other six pints of  water
 boiling, and immediately cover the vessel.   Pour
 out  the liquor when cold, and distil off, with a slow
 fire, one pint.   This spirit is too  acrimonious for
 internal use, and has  therefore been  chiefly em-
 ployed for smelling to,  in faintings, he. though,
 when  properly diluted, it may be given inwardly
 with safety.
           Water of acetated ammonia.
   Take of ammonia, by weight, 2  oz. distilled
 vinegar, 4 pints; or as much as is  sufficient to sa-
 turate the ammonia.
   This is  an  excellent  aperient   saline  liquor.
 Taken warm in bed, it proves commonly a power-
 ful  diaphoretic or  sudorific; and  as it operates
 without heat, it is used in febrile and inflammatory
 disorders, Avhere medicines of the warm kind, if
 they fail  of procuring sweat, aggravate the distem-
 per.  Its action may likewise be determined to the
 kidneys,  by walking about in cool air.   The com-
 mon  dose  is  half an ounce, either by itself, or
 along with other medicines adapted to the  inten-
 tion.  Its strength is not a little precarious, depend-
 ing on that of the  vinegar.
             Black pectoral lozenges.
   Take of extract of  liquorice, gum-arabic, each,
 4 oz.  white sugar,  8 oz.
   Dissolve them in warm water, and strain: then
 evaporate the mixture  over a gentle fire till it be
 of a proper consistence for  being  formed into lo-
 zenges, which are  to be cut out of any shape.
              White pectoral lozenges.
   Take  of fine sugar,  1 lb. gum arabic,  4 oz.
 starch, 1 oz. flowers of benzoin, jf drachm.
   Having beaten them all in a powder, make them
into a proper mass witn rose-water, so as to form
lozenges.
  These compositions are very agreeable pectorals,
and may be used at pleasure.  They are calculated
for softening acrimonious humours, and allaying
the tickling in the throat which provokes coughing.
               Syrup of ginger.
  Take of ginger bruised, 4 oz. boiling  distilled
water, 3 pints.
  Macerate four hours, and strain the liquor; then
add double refined -sugar, and make into a syrup.
  This syrup promotes the circulation through the
extreme  vessels; it  is  to be  given in torpid and
phlegmatic habits, where the stomach is subject to
be  loaded with slime, and the bowels distended
with flatulency. Hence it enters into the compound
tincture of cinnamon and the aromatic poAvder.
  Dyspeptic  patients,  from hard  drinking,  and
those subject to flatulency and  gout, have been
known to receive considerable benefit by the use
of ginger tea,  taking  two or three cupsful  for
breakfast, suiting it to their palate.
               Syrup  of poppies.
  Take of the  heads ot white poppies,  dried, 3£
lbs. double refined sugar, 6 lbs. distilled  water, 8
gallons.
  Slice and bruise the heads, then boil them in the
water to three gallons, and press out the decoction.
Reduce this,  by boiling to about 4 pints, and strain
it while  hot  through a sieve, then through a thin
woollen  cloth and set it aside for 12 hours, that the
grounds  may subside.  Boil the  liquor poured off
from the grounds to 3 pints, and dissolve the sugar
in it, that it may be made a syrup.
  This syrup, impregnated with the narcotic mat-.
ter of the poppy-head, is given to children in doses
of two or three drachms, and to adults of from ^
an oz.  to one ounce and upwards,  for easing pain,
procuring rest, and answering the other intentions
of mild  operations.  Particular  care is  requisite
in its preparation, that it may be always  made, as
nearly as possible, of the same strength.
               Syrup of violets.
  Take of fresh flowers of the violet, 1 lb.  boiling
distilled water, 3 pints.
   Macerate for 25  hours, and  strain the liquor
through  a cloth, without pressing,  and add double
refined  sugar,  to make  the  syrup.  This is  an
agreeable laxative medicine for young children.
                Syrup of squills.
   Take  of vinegar of squills, 2 lbs. double refined
sugar, in powder, 3$ lbs.
   Dissolve the sugar  with a gentle heat, so as to
form a syrup.
   This syrup is used chiefly in doses of a spoonful
or two for promoting expectoration, which it does
very powerfully.  It is also given as an  emetic to
children.
               Oxymel of squills.
   Take of clarified honey, 3 lbs.  vinegar of squills,
2 pints.
   Boil them in a glass vessel, with a slow fire, to
the thickness of a syrup.
   Oxymel of squills is an  useful aperient, deter-
gent, and expectorant, and of great service in hu-
 moral asthmas, coughs, and other disorders where
 thick pulegm abounds. It is given in doses of two
 or three drachms, along with  some aromatic water,
 as that of cii-iamon, to prevent the great nausea
 which  it would  otherAvise be apt to excite.  In
 large doses it proves emetic.
                Vinegar of squills.
   Take of squills, recently dried,  1 lb.; vinegar, 6
 pints; proof spirit, £ pint.
   Macerate the squill" with the  vinegar,  in a glass
 vessel, with  a  gentle heat, for twenty-four hours;
 then express the liquor, and set it aside until the 
1ECEIPT BOOK.
254                          UNIVERSAL R

faces subside.   To  the decanted liquor add the
spirit.
   Vinegar of squills is a medicine of great  anti-
quity.   It is a very powerful stimulant; and hence
it is frequently used  with great success  as a  diu-
retic and expectorant.   The dose of this  medicine
is from a drachm to half an ounce: where crudities
abound in the  first passages, it may be given at
first in a larger dose, to evacuate them bv vomit-
ing.  It is most conveniently  exhibited along  with
cinnamon, or other  agreeable  aromatic waters,
which  prevent the nausea it would otherwise,  even
in small doses, be apt to occasion.
                  Tar-water.
  Take of tar, 2 pints; water, 1 gallon.  Mix, by
stirring them with a wooden  rod for a garter of
an hour, and, after the tar  has subsided, strain the
liquor, and keep it in well corked phials.
  Tar-water should have the colour of white Avine,
and an empyreumatic taste.  It is, in fact, a solu-
tion of empyreumatic  oil, effected by  means of
acetous acid.  It acts as  a stimulant,  raising the
pulse,  and increasing the discharge  by the  skin
and kidneys.   Tt  may  be  drank to the extent of a
pint or two in the course of a day.
           Decoction of sarsaparilla.
  Take of sarsaparilla  root,  cut, 6 oz.; distilled
water, 8 pints.
  After macerating for two hours, with a heat about
195 degrees, then take out the root and  bruise it;
add  it again to the liquor, and macerate  it for two
hours longer; then boil down  the liquor to 4 pints,
and strain it.  The dose is from 4 oz. to half a  pint,
or more, daily.
       Compound decoction of sarsaparilla.
   Take of sarsaparilla root, cut and bruised, 6 oz.;
the bark of sassafras root, the  shavings of guaiacum
wood,  liquorice root,  each, 1  oz.; the bark of me-
zereon root, 3 drachms; distilled Avater, 10 pints.
  Digest Avith a gentle heat for 6 hours;  then bail
down the liquor to one half (or five pints), adding
the bark of the mezereon  root towards the end of
boiling.  Strain off  the liquor.   The dose  is the
same as the last, and for the same purposes.
  These decoctions are of very great use in purify-
ing the blood, and resolving obstructions in scor-
butic andscrofulous cases; also in cutaneous erup-
tions, and many other diseases. Obstinate swellings,
that had resisted the  effect of other remedies for
above twelve months, have been cured by drinking
a quart of  decoction of this kind, daily,  for some
weeks.  Decoctions of sarsaparilla  ought to  be
made fresh every day, for they very  soon become
quite foetid, and unfit  for use, sometimes in less
than 24 hours, in warm weather.
             Decoction of the woods.
   Take  of  guaiacum raspings, 3  oz.; raisins,
stoned, 2 oz.;  sassafras root, sliced, liquorice  root,
bruised, each 1 oz.; water, 10 lbs.
   Boil  the guaiacum  and raisins with the water,
over a gentle fire, to the consumption  of  one  half,
wilding, towards the end, the sassafras and  liquorice,
and strain the decoction without expression.
   This decoction is of use in some rheumatic and
cutaneous affections.   It may be taken by itself, to
the quantity ofa quarter of a pint, twice or thrice
a  day,  or used as an assistant in a course of  mer-
curial or antimonial alteratives; the patient in either
case keeping warm, in order to promote the opera-
tion of the medicine.
                  Water-gruel.
   Put a large spoonful of oatmeal into a pint of
water, stir it well together, and let it boil three or
four times, stirring it often. Then strain it through
  sieve, put in some salt acco-ding to  taste, and if
necessary add a piece of  fresh butter.   Stir  wilh
a spoon, until the butter is melted when it win De
fine and smooth.
                    Panada.
  Put a blade of mace, a large piece of the crumb
of bread, and a quart of  water, in a clean sauce-
pan.  Let  it boil two minutes, then take out  the
bread, and  bruise it very fine in a basin. Mix with
it as  much of the warm water as it will require,
pour  away the rest, and sweeten it to  the taste ot
the patient.   If necessary, put in a piece of butter
of the size  ofa walnut, but add no wine. Grate in
a little nutmeg if requisite.
               Isinglass jelly, &c.
  Put an ounce of isinglass,  and  half an ounce of
cloves,  into a quart of water.  Boil il down to a
pint, strain it upon a pound of loaf sugar, and when
cold add a I'.ttle wine, when it will be fit for use.—
A very  nourishing beverage may be made  by
merely boiling the isinglass with milk, and sweet-
ening with  lump-sugar.
                   Beef tea.
  Take off the fat and skin  from a pound of lean
beef,  and cut it  into pieces.   Then  put it into a
gallon of water, with the under  crust of a penny
'oaf, and a small  portion  of  salt.  Let the whole
boil till reduced to 2 quarts,  and strain, Avhen it
will be  fit for use.
  Another method.—In  some cases, when the pa-
tient  is very weak, the tea must  be made thus:—
Take a  piece of lein beef, cut it across and across,
and then pour on it  scalding water.   Cover  it up
close, and let it stand till cold.  Then pour it oft",
and warm  it as the patient  requires,  having sea-
soned it moderately.
      Transparent soup for convalescents.
  Cut the meat from a leg of veal into small pieces,
and break the bone into several bits.  Put the  meat
into a very large jug, and the bones at top, with a
bunch of common sweet herbs, a quarter of" an  oz.
of mace, and  half a  pound  of Jordan almonds,
finely blanched and beaten.  Pour on it four quarts
of boiling water, and let it st'and all night, covered
close  by the fireside.  The next  day put it into a
well-tinned saucepan, and let it boil slowly, till it
is reduced to two quarts.  Be careful,  at the time
it is boiling, to skim it, and take oft" the fat  as it
rises.  Strain into a punch-bowl, and when settled
for two  hours, pour it into a clean saucepan, clear
from  the sediments,  if any.   Add 3  oz. of rice,
or 2 oz. of vermicelli, previously boiled in a little
water.  When  once more boiled, it will be fit  for
use.
                Sedlitz powders.
  Take of  Rochelle salt, 1 drachm, carbonate  of
soda,  25 grains, tartaric acid, 20 do.
  Dissolve the two  first  iu  a  tumbler of water
then add the latter, and  swallow without loss of
time.


             SALUTABY  CAUTIONS.
         Purification of water by charcoal
¥    Nothing has been found so effectual for preserv-
 ing water sweet  at  sea, during long voyages, as
 charring the insides of the casks well  before they
 are filled. Care ought at the same time to be taken
 that the casks should never be  filled with sea wa-
 ter,  as  sometimes happens,  in  order to save the
 trouble of shifting the ballast,  because this tends
 to hasten the corruption  of the  fresh  Avaler after-
 wards put  into them.   W.ien the water becomes
 impure and offensive at sea, from ignorance of the
 preservative effect produced  on  it by charring the
 casks previous to their being filled, it may  be ren-
 dered perfectly sweet by putting a little fresh char-
IE
/ 
MEDICINE.
255
coal in powder into each cask before it is tapped,
or by filtering it through fresh burnt and coarsely
powdered charcoal.
  No practice has answered better than  that of
charring their water casks on their inside.  Three
casks of Avater in one of his Majesty's dock yards,
of three years' standing, were perfectly sweet when
tapped.   There is, therefore, little doubt but that
water may be preserved fresh and  fit for drinking
for any length of time, in  charred barrels.
                  Cleanliness.
  To preserve seamen in health, and prevent the
prevalence of scurvy, and other diseases, it will be
further necessary to keep the ship perfectly clean,
and to have the different parts of it daily purified
by a free admission of air, when the weather will
admit of it,  and likewise by frequent fumigations.
This precaution will  more particularly bf. neces-
sary for the  purification of such places as are re-
markably close and confined.
        Prevention of dampness and cold.
  The coldness and dampness of the atmosphere
are to be corrected by sufficient fires.
  Cleanliness on board of a ship is highly neces-
sary for the  preservation of the health of seamen;
but the custom of frequent swabbings or washings
berween the decks, as is too frequently practised,
is certainly injurious, and  greatly favours the pro-
duction of scurvy and other diseases by a constant
dampness being kept  up.
          Exercise  and  amusements.
  The men  should be made to air their hammocks
and bedding every fine day; they should wash their
bodies and  apparel  often, for which purpose an
adequate supply of soap ought to be allowed; and
they should  change  their linen and other clothes
frequently.  In rainy weather,  on being relieved
from  their  duty on  the deck by  the  succeeding
wateh, they should take off their wet clothes, in-
stead of keeping them on, and lying down in them, <
as they are too apt to do.  Two sets ofhammocks
ought  to  be provided for them.  In fijut pleasant
weather,  and after their  usual duty is over, they
should  be indulged  in any innocent amusement
that will  keep their minds, as well as bodies, in a
state of pleasant activity, and perhaps none is'more
proper than dancing.  This makes a fiddle or a
pipe and tabor, desirable  acquisitions on board of
every ship bound on a long voyage.
             Effects  of climate, &c.
  In warm climates the crews of ships are healthier
at sea when the a^r is dry and serene, and  the heat
moderated by gentle  breezes, than when  rainy or
damp  weather prevails;  and they usually  enjoy
better health when the shrp is moored at a con-
siderable distance from  the shore, and to  wind-
ward  of  any marshy ground or  stagnant waters,
than when it is anchored to leeward of these, and
lies close in with the land. Masters of vessels,
stationed at, or trading to, any parts between the
tropics, Avill therefore act  pruiVntly, when they
have arrived at their destined port, to anchor a
considerable distance from the shore, and  as far to
windward of all  swamps, pools, and lakes, as can
conveniently be done, as the noxious vapours  which
Avill be wafted to  the crew, when  the ship is in a
station of this nature, will not fail to give rise to
diseases among them.
      Cautions to be observed when on shore.
   When, unavoidably obliged to submit to such an
inconvenience, some  means ought to be adopted to
prevent disagreeable consequences from  ensuing.
For this purpose a large  sail should be hoisted at
the foremast or most windward part of the ship,
so as to prevent the  noxious vapours from coming
abaft; the cabin, steerage, and  between the decks,
should be fumigated now and then, and the seameii
allowed to smoke tobacco freely.
  Unless absolutely necessary, it will be improper
to permit any of the crew to sleep from on board,
when stationed off an unhealthy shore; but when
necessity obliges them to dp so, for the purposes
of wooding or watering, a tent or marquee should
be erected, if a proper house cannot be procured,
and this should be pitched on the dryest and high-
est spot that  can be found, being so situated, as
that the door shall open  towards the sea.  Under
cover of this, a sufficient number of  hammocks are
to be suspended for the accommodation of the men
by night, as they should by no means be suffered
to sleep on the open ground.
  If the tent happens unfortunately to be in the
neighbourhood of a  morass,  or has unavoidably
been pitched on flat  moist  ground,  it will be ad-
visable  to keep up a constant  fire in it by day as
well as by night; and as a further preventive against
those malignant disorders which are apt to arise in
such  situations,  the  men  should be directed to
smoke freely of tobacco, and to take a wine-glass-
ful  of the  compound tincture of Peruvian  bark
every  morning, on an  empty stomach,  and the
same quantity again at night.
        Cautions when in tropical climates.
  In tropical climates, the  healthiness of seamen
will  much depend upon avoiding undue exposure
to the sun, rain, night air,  long fasting, intempe-
rance, unwholesome shore duties, especially during
the sickly sejson,  and upon (he attention paid to
the various ovulations  and preventive measures.
The bad effects  of remaining  too long in port at
any  one time (independent of irregularities, of
harbour duties, particularly after sunset, as well as
during his meridian power), cannot  be too strongly
adverted to by the commander  of every ship; and
therefore a measure  of  the highest  importance in
the navy is the employment of negroes and natives
bf the country, or at least men accustomed to the
torrid zone, inWooding,  watering, transporting
stores, rigging, clearing, careening ships, he.; and,
in fine, in all such occupations as  might subject
the  seamen to excessive heat  or noxious exhala-
tions, which cannot fail  to be highly dangerous to
the health of the unassimilated seaman.
  The practice of heaving down vessels of war in
the West Indies,  in  the ordinary routine of ser-
vice at least, cannot  be  too highly  deprecated, as
well  from the excessive fatigue  and exertion  it
demands, as becauatffit is a process which requires
for its execution local security, or, in other words,
a land that is  locked, and  therefore generally an
unhealthy  harbour.   The  instances  of  sickness
and  mortality from the effects of clearing  a foul
hold in an unhealthy harbour,  are too numerous to
be specified.
                  Intoxication.
  A  very productive source  of disease  in warm
climates among seamen, is an immoderate use of
spirituous and fermented  liquors, as they are too
apt, whilst under a state of intoxication,  to throw
themselves  on the bare ground, where,  perhaps,
they lie exposed for many hours to the influence of
the meridian sun, the heavy dews of the evening,
or the damp chilling air of the night.  The com-
mander of a ship who pays attention to the  health
of his crew, will therefore take every possible pre-
caution to prevent his men  from being guilty (■' an
excess of this nature;  and likewise that the}' do not
lie out in the open air,  when overcome by fatigue
and hard labour.
   The different voyages of that celebrated naviga-
tor, Captain Cook, as Avell as  that of the unfortu-
 nate La Perouse, incontestably prove that by due 
256
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
care and a proper regimen,  seamen  may be  pre-
served from the scurvy and other diseases which
have  formerly  been inseparable  from long  sea
voyages; and that they can thus support the fatigues
of the longest navigations in all  climates, and un-
der a burning sun.
               Noxious vapours.
  Smoking  or fumigating ships with charcoal or
sulphur, is the most effectual  means of killing all
kinds of vermin, and is therefore always resorted
to; but it is recommended that no  sailor  nor  boy
be allowed to go under the decks until the hatches,
and  all the other openings, have been for three
hours uncovered; in that time all noxious vapours
will  be effectually dissipated.
Captain  Cook's rules for preserving the health of
                    seamen.
  1.  The crew to be at three watches.  The men
will  by this means  have time to  shift and  dry
themselves,  and get pretty well refreshed by sleep
before called  again  to duty.  When there is no
pressing occasion, seamen ought to  be refreshed
with as much uninterrupted  sleep, as a common
day labourer.
  2.  To have  dry clothes to shift themselves after
getting wet.—One of the officers to see that every
man, ou going wet from his watch, be immediately
shifted with dry clothes, and the same on going to
bed.
  3.  To keep  their persons, hammocks, bedding,
and  clothes,  clean  and  dry.—This commander
made his men pass iu review beforejBbn, one  day
in every week, and saw that they hairWanged their
linen, and were as neat and clean as circumstances
would admit.   He had also  every day the  ham-
mocks carried on the booms, or some other airy
part  of the  ship, unlashed, and the bedding tho-
roughly shaken and aired.   When the  weather
prevented the hammocks being  carried on deck,
they Avere constantly taken down, to make roooml
for the fires, the sweeping, and jtfier operations. ''
When  possible, fresh water  was aways allowed to
•he men to wash their clothes, as soap will not mix
with sea-water, and linen Avashed in brine never
thoroughly dries.
  4.  To keep  the ship clean between decks.
  5.  To have  frequent fires between decks, and
at the bottom of the well.—Captain Cook's method
was to have iron potr with dry wood, which he
burned between decks, in the well, and other parts
of the ship;  during which time, some of the crew
were employed in rubbing, with canvas or oakum,
every part that had  the  least damp.  Where the
heat  from the stoves did  not readily absorb  the
moisture, loggerheads, heated red hot, and laid on
sheets of iron, speedily effected the  purpose.
  6.  Proper attention to be paid to the ship's cop-
pers, to keep them clean and free from verdigris.
  7.' The fat that is boiled out of the salt  beef or
pork, never to be given to the people.
  8.  The men to be allowed plenty ©f fresh water,
at the ship's return to port; the water remaining on
board to he  started, and fresh water from the shore
to be taken in its room.
  By means of "the above regulations, (in addition
to rules relative to temperance; and supplying the
crews  as  much as  possible with fresh meat  and
vegetables), this celebrated  navigator performed a
voyage of upwards of three years, in every climate
of i.e globe, with the loss of only one man.
       To obtain fresh water from the sea.
  The method of obtaining fresh water from the
sea by distillation, was introduced into the English
navy in the year 1770, by Dr Irving, for which he
obtained a parliamentary reward of £5009.
  In order to  give a clear notion  of Dr Irving's
method  let us suppose a  teakettle to be made
 without a spout, and with a hole in the  lid, in the
 place of the knob; the kettle being filled with sea-
 water,  the  fresh vapour,  which arises  from the
 water as it  boils, will issue  through the hole in
 the lid; into that hole  fit  the moulh of a tobacco
 pipe, letting  the  stem  have a  little inclination'
 downwards, then will  the vapour  of fresh  Avater
 take its course through the stem of the  tube, and
 may be collected by fitting a proper vessel to its
 end.
   This would be an apt representation of Dr lrv-
 ing's contrivance, in which he has luted or adapted
 a tin, iron,  or tinned  copper tube, of suitable di-
 mensions, to the lid of the common kettle used for
 boiling the  provisions on board a ship; the fresh
 vapour  which  arises from boiling sea-water in the
 kettle, passes, as by common distillation, through
 this tubo into a hogshead, which serves as a receiv-
 er; and in order that the  vapour may he readily
 condensed, the tube is kept cool by being constant-
 ly wetted with a mop dipped in cold sea water.
 The waste water running from  the mop, may  be
 carried  off by means of tAvo boards nailed  together,
 like a spout.  Dr Irving particularly remarks, that
 only three-fourths of the sea-water Should be dis-
 tilled; the brine is then to be let off and the copper
 replenished, as the water distilled from the remain-
 ing concentrated brine is found to haA'e a disagreea-
 ble taste;  and  as the farther continuation of the
 distillation  is apt  to be  injurious to the vessels.
 When the water begins to boil, likewise, the va-
 pour should be allowed to pass freely for a minute;
 this  will effectually cleanse  the  tube, and upper
 part of  the  boiler.
  To render sea-water capable of washing linen.
  iLiLWull known that  sea-water  cannot be em-
 pJC^Tfoi- washing clothes.—It refuses to dissofre
 soap,  antr ji6ssesses all  the  properties  of hard
(flatter.   W   -
  This  isagueat inconvenience to seamen, whose
 allowance of fresh  water is  necessarily limited,
 and it ptriN|»ts them from enjoying many of those
 comforts offcleanliness which  contribute not a little
 toTSiea^fcj^The method of removing this defect is
 exc^flgly simple, and by no means expensive.
 It haslately been pointed out by Dr Mitchell,  of
 New  York:—Drop into  sea-water a solution of
 soda,  or potash.  It will become milky, in conse-
 quence  of the decomposition of the earthy  salts,
 and the precipitation of the earths.   This addition
 renders it soft, and capable of washing. Its milki-
 ness  will have no injurious effects
PRESERVATION FROM DROWNING AND SHIPWRECK,
          When a man falls overboard.
  The instant an alarm is  given  that  a man  is
overboard, the  ship's helm  should be put down,
and she  should be  hove in stays; a hen coop or
other  object that A;an float should  also be thrown
overboard as near the man as possible, with a rope
tied to it, and carefully kept  sight of, as it will
prove a beacon, towards which the boat may pull
as soon as lowered  down.  A  primary object is,
having a  boat ready to lower down at a moment's
notice, which should be hoisted up at the stern if
most convenient;  the lashings,  tackle, he. to be
always kepgclear, and a rudder, tiller, and spare
spar, to be kept in  her.  When dark, she should
not be without a lanthorn and a compass.
  There  should also be kept in  her a rope with a
running bowline, ready to fix in or  to throw to the
persoiwn danger.   Coils of small rope, with run-
ning bowlines, should also be kept m the chains,
quarters, and abaft,  ready to throw over, as it most
generally occurs, that men pass close to the ship's 
MEDICINE.
257
 side, and have often been  miraculously saved by
 clinging to ropes.
               Upsetting of a boat.
   If a person should fall out of a boat, or the boat
 upset by going foul  of a cable, he.  or should he
«fall off the quays, or indeed fall into any water,
 from Avhich he cannot extricate himself, but must
 wait some little time for assistance—had he pre-
 sence of mind enough to whip off his hat, and hold
 it by the brim, placing his  fingers  wilhin side of
 the crown,  (top  upwards) he would be able, by
 this method, to  keep his mouth above water till
 assistance should reach him. It often happens that
 danger is apprehended long before we are involved
 in the peril, although there may be time enough
 to prepare this, or adopt any other method.   Tra-
 vellers,  in fording  rivers at unknown fords, or
 where shallows are  deceitful,  might make use of
 this method  with advantage.
        .        Cork waistcoats.       S
   Provide a cork  waistcoat,  composed  of four
 pieces, two  for  the  breast and two for the  back,
 each pretty near in length and breadth  to the  quar-
 ters of a waistcoat without flaps; the whole is to be
 covered  with coarse canvass, with two holes to put
 the arms through.   There must be a space left be-
 tween the two back pieces, and the same betwixt
 each back and breast piece, that they may fit the
 easier to the body.   By this means  the waistcoat
 is open only before,  and may be  fastened on the
 wearer by strings; or if  it should bethought more
 secure,  with buckles and  leather  straps.   This
 waistcoat may be made up for five or six shillings.
   If those who use thp sea occasionally, and espe-
 cially those  Who are obliged  to be  almost con-
 stantly there, were to use  these  waistcoats,  it
 would '»e  next to impossible that they should oe
 drowned.
                 Further means.
   It will likewise be proper to prepare an oil skin
 bag, on going to sea, for a temporaiy supply of
 provisions, in case  of  shipwreck.    If ,4uddenly
 plunged into ihe water, and  unable to swim, il will
 be necessary to  keep ihe hands and,#rms under
 the water—few animals being capable of drowning,
 OAving to their inability  to lift their fore legs over
 their heads.
   The legs, therefore, being necessarily immersed
 in the water, the difference between the  specific
 gravity of  the animal and the water, is sufficient to
 enable it to keep  its nostrils and mouth above the
 Avater, and therefore it is  not suffocated  by the
 fluid, but  breathes freely.   But man, on the con-
 trary, being  able to lift his hands over his head,
 and generally doing so in case of this accident, his
 hands and arms make up the difference in specific
 gravity,  and  his head, impelled by the weight of
 his hands and arms  below the water, his body fills,
 and he is consequently choked and suffocated. The
 remedy  therefore is, in all  such cases,  to keep
 down the  hands and arms, and aS a further secu-
 rity, to act with them under and against the water.
 It will then be impossible to sink, unless the weight
 of clothes or other circumstances operate to the
 contrary.
               The  marine spencer.
   The marine  spencer  is  made in  the form of a
 girdle, of  a proper  diameter  to fit  the body, and
 six inches broad, composed of about 500 ojd tavern
 corks, strung upon a strong twine, well lashed to-
 gether with  lay-cord, covered with canvass, and
 painted in  oil so as to make it water-proof.   Two
 tapes  of cords, about two feet long,  are fastened
 to the back of the girdle with  loops at the  ends.
 Another tape or cord of the same length, having a
 Hew corks strung to the middle of it, is covered
 with canAass painted.  A pin of liard wood,  three
         2 H
inches long and half an inch in diameter, is fast-
ened to  the front of the  girdle by a tape or cord,
about three  inches long.   To use the  spencer, it
should be slidden from the feet close up to the arms;
the tapes or cords are to be brought one over each
shoulder,  and fastened by the loops to the pin:
those between the  legs are to be fastened to the
other pin.  A person thus equipped, though unac-
quainted with swimming, may safely trust himself
to the waves; for he will  float, head and shoulders
above water, in any storm, and  by paddling with
his hands, may easily gain the shore.  Such a spen-
cer may also be made of cork shavings put into a
long canvass bag.
  It has also been suggested, that every part of the
usual dress of the  sailor  should  be made with a
view of preserving his life, in cases of accident; and
for this  purpose that a quantity of cork  shavings
or clippings should be quilted into his jacket about
the collar and neck, between the outside and in-
side lining:  or  as' a belt, of  considerable breadth
across the back and shoulders,  then  principally
omitted under  the arms, and  resumed over the
chest and stomach, yet not so  much as to create in-
convenience.  If in these,  and  other parts of his
dress, so much cork could commodiously be work-
ed, as would  give the sailor an opportunity of re-
covering himself, and making use of his own pow.
ers in cases of contingency,  many valuable lives
might be saved.
                Bamboo habit.
  The bambiwtiabit is an invention of the Chinese,
by the use of which, a person unskilled in the art
of'swimming, may easily keep himself above water.
The Chinese merchants, when going on a voyage,
are said always to provide themselves with this
simple  apparatus, to save their  lives in cases of
danger from shipwreck.  It  is constructed by plac-
ing four bamboos horizontally, two before, and two
behind the body of each  person, so that they pro-
ject about twentydbght inches; these are crossed on
each side by two  others, and the whole property
secured, leaving an intermediate space for the
body.  When thus  formed, the person in danger
slips it  over his head, and ties  it securely to the
waist, by which simple  means he cannot possibly
sink.
      To extricate persons from  broken ice.
  Let tAvo or more persons  hold  a rope or  ropes,
at both ends, stretched over the broken  ice; so that
the drowning person may catch hold of it.
    •              The life boat.
  The life-boat is  generally  thirty feet long, and
in form much  reseirbling  a common  Greenland
boat, except the bottom, which is  much flatter. She
is lined  with cork, inside and outside of the gun-
wale, about two  feet in .breadth, and the seats un-
derneath are filled with cork also.
  She is  rowed by ten  men, double banked, and
steered  by two  men with  oars,  one at each end,
both ends being alike.   Long Doles are provided
for the men, to keep the boat from  being driven
broadside to the shore, either in  going off or land-
ing.  About  six inches  from the lower poles,  it
increases in diameter, so as to form a  flat surface
against the sand.  The weight of the cork  useTl in
the boat is about seven cwt.        ^
  She draws very little water,  and when full is able
lo carry twenty people.   The boat is able to con-
tend against  the most tremendous sea and broken
Avater; and never,  in any  ohe  instance. Las she
failed in bringing the creAV  in distress into a place
of safety.   The men have  no dread  in going off
with her in the highest sea and broken water: cork
jackets were  provided for them; but their confi-
fidence in the boat is so great, that they do not use
them.
                                    W2 
268                            UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
   The success attending this expedient for dimin-
 ishing the number of unhappy individuals almost
 daily lost in a watery grave, appears to have been
 more than equal to the most sanguine expectations
 formed of its utility; and the great object in view,
 viz. the  safety of those persons  who hazard  their
 own security to preserve others, has been fully ac-
 complished.
       Safe and readily constiucted life-boat.
   In April, 18)6,  a model of a life-boat was exhi-
 bited before the Royal Humane Society, which may
 be put together in the space of half an hour, in any
 case of shipwreck, and which cannot sink or over-
 set, let the sea run ever so high. All that is neces-
 sary to be provided is, a keel or plank  of any con-
 venient  length, and a  few pigs  of iron, such as
 vessels usually carry out for ballast.  The officers
 of the  ship are to take care to keep tAvo or three
 empty water-casks, perfectly tight, the bung-holes
 corked up, and a piece of tin or leather nailed
 over them.   These  casks are to be lashed  with
 ropes to Ihe xeel, along Avith the pigs  of iron for
 ballast; and any spare  poles or spars may be also
 lashed lo the sides, so as to give the raft  the  form
 of a vessel, and at  each end to  make a  lodgement
 for the  men.   Any of the  square  sails of the ship
 will form a lug-sail,  and may  speedily be adapted
 to the new life-boat, and a strong  and  broad spar
 may be lashed on as a rudder.
   Another. — Let a quantity of ballast, even more
 than what is commonly used for sailing, be laid in
 the bottom of ihe boat, over this lay bags filled
 with cork,  prepared for the purpose, and numbered
 according  to  their  places, and  if considerably
 higher than the gunwales so much the better; a sail
 or  part  of one folded may be thrown over  from
 stem  to  stern, to  combine and unite the several
 parts; and lastly,  the whole is to be secured to-
 gether by passing  ropes by so many turns as may
 be  deemed sufficient, round and  round  over the
 gunwales and  under the keel, and  these, if neces-
 sary,  may be  .litched by a  turn  or  two taken
 lengthwise.
  Every  person either on board or holding  by the
 boat, so  prepared, may be absolutely certain of
 being carried safe through any breach whatever.
   When  no such  preparation of  cork has  been
 made, the following  is proposed as a substitute:
  Let a quantity of ballast, as coals in canvass, be
 secured in its place, as well as circumstances will
 admit; then take an empty water cask (beer cask,
 or any others that are tight) and fill the boat with
 them,and if the bilge of the cask rises considerably
 higher than the gunwales, it will  be so much the
 better; let a sail then be thrown in to jam the  cask
 and ballast in their places,  as well as to  combine
 and unite the several parts by covering all fore and
 all; and lastly, let the  whole be lashed and secured
 together, in the manner above stated.   It is be-
 lieved ihe boat in this trim would always continue
 upright on her kefl, be livjly and buoyant on the
 water,  and have sufficient efficacy to support the
 crew of any ordinary vessel, till drifted within their
 own depth.
  It frequently happens that after men have gained
 the" shore, they perish of cold for want of dry
 clothes.  As a remedy for this, every man  should
try to secure one or iavo flannel or woollen shirts,
 by wrapping them up tightly in a  piece of oiled
cloth or silk; and to guard against tearing, the last
 might be covered Avilh canvass, or inclosed in  a tin
 box.
 Further method of preservation in cases of ship-
                    wrecks.
  It being the  great object,  in cases of shipwreck,
to establish a  communication  betwixt  the vessel
and the shore with ihe least possible delay, various
 methods  have been invented and pointed out for
 this purpose.
   A common paper kite launched from the vessel,
 and driven by the wind to the shore has been  sup-
 posed capable of conveying a piece of pack thread,
 to which a larger rope might be attached and drawn
 on board.
   A small balloon, raised by rarified  air might be
 made to answer the same purpose.
   A sky rocket, ofa large diameter, has also been
 considered as capable of an equal service, and, in-
 deed, this method seems the best; for  besides the
 velocity of the discharge, could it be brought to act
 during the night, it must both point out the situa-
 tion of the  ship, and the direction  that the  line
 took in flying ashore.
        Useful hints when a leak is spring.
   When a vessel springs a leak near  her bottom,
 the waten.enters with all the  force given by the
 weight oft he column of water without,' which force
 is in proportion to the difference of the level  be-
 tween the water without and  that within. It enters
 therefore  with more force at  first, and in greater
 quantity than it can afterwards, when the  Avater
 within is higher.  The bottom of the vessel,  too,
 is  narrower,  so that the K«ime quantity of water
 coming into that narrow part, rises  faster  than
 when  the space for it  is larger.  This helps to
 terrify.  But  as the quantity entering is less  and
 less,  as the  surfaces without and within become
 more nearly equal in height, the pumps that could
 not keep the watt# from  rising at first, might after-
 wards be able to prevent its rising higher, and the
 people might have remained  on board in safety,
 without hazarding  themselves  in an open boat on
 the wide ocean.
   Besides the greater equality in the height of the
 two surfaces, there may  sometimes be  other causes
 that retard the  farther  sinking of a  leaky vessel.
 The rising water within may arrive at quantities of
 light wooden works, empty chests, and particularly
 empty water casks, which, fixed  so as not to float
 themselves,  may help to sustain her.  Many bodies
 which compose a ship's  cai go may be specifically
 lighte-  than water: all these, when out of water,
 are an additional weight to that  of the ship, aud she
 is in proportion  pressed deeper in the water, but
 as soon as these bodies are immersed,  they weigh
 no longer on the  ship: but, on the contrary, if fixed,
 they help to support her in proportion as they are
 specifically lighter than the water.
           Temporary nautica%pump.
  Captain Leslie, of the George and  Susan,   in a
 voyage from North  America to Stockholm, adopt-
 ed an excellent mode  of emptying water from his
 ship's hold, when the crew were insufficient to pet-
 form  that duty.  About 10 or 12 feet above  the
 pump, he rigged out a spar, one end of which pro-
jected overboard, while the oilier was fastened, as
 a lever, to the  machinery of the pump.  To the
 end which projected overboard,  was  suspended a
 water-butt, half full, but corked down:  so  that
 when the coming  Avave raised  the butt-end, the
 other  end  depressed the piston of the pump;  but
 at the retiring of the wave, this was reversed,  for,
 by the weight'of the butt, the piston came up again,
 and with it the water.   Thus, without the aid ol"
 the crew,  the ship's hold was cleared of the water
 in a few hours.
  Another.—When a vessel springs a leak  at  sea,
 which cannot be discovered, instead of exhausting
 the crew by continual working a. the pumps, they
 may form, with  very  little trouble, a machine to
 discharge  the water, which will work  itself, with-
 out any assistance from the hands on board.
  Let  a spar, or spare  top-mast, be c:it  to  the
 length of eight or ten feet, or more, according to 
MEDICINE.
259
the size of the vessel;  mortice four holes  through
the thickest end, through which run four oars, fix-
ing them tight, exactly in the middle. To  the four
handles nail on  four blades,  (made of staves) the
size of the other ends, which  will form a very good
water wheel if the oars be strong: then fix into the
opposite end  what is  commonly  called a crank:
the iron handle of a grindstone would suit extreme-
ly well: if this is not to be had, any strong bar of
iron mav be bent into  that form, wedging it tight
to prevent its twisting round.   Then nail up a new
pair of chaps on the fore  part of the pump, for a
new handle  to be fixed in, which will point with
its outer end to the bow of the vessel; this handle
wil'  be short on the outside, but as long on the in-
side as the diameter of the bore of the pump will
admit, in order that the spear may be plunged the
deeper,  and of course the  longer  stroke.  The
handle must be large enough  to have a slit sawed
up it,  sufficient to admit a stave edgeAvays,  which
must be fastened Avith a strong iron pin, on which
it may work.  The lower end of the stave must
be bored to  admit the round end  of the crank;
then fix the shaft, Avith  the oars (or arms) over the
gunwale, on two crotchets, one spiked to the gun-
wale, and the  other near tlie  pump, cutting  in the
shaft a circular notch,  as well to make it run ea-
sier, by lessening the friction, as to keep the whole
steady.  A bolt is now to  be fixed in each crotchet
close over the shaft, to keep it from rising.  As
soon as the  wheel  touches the water it will turn
round, and the crank, by means of the stave fixed
on its end, will work the handle of the pump.
   To render  the sinking of  a ship impossible.
   According to Ihe present plan of ship-building,
in case of leaks at sea,  vhich  cannot be kept under
by pumping, the ships and crews must inevitably
be lost, to the great affliction  and loss of thousanus
of families.   In  order to prevent such accidents in
future, which  hitherto have been too common,  a
gentleman, of the name of Williams, suggests an
easy arrangement, which, if  universally adopted,
even  under  the worst circumstances, will  enable
ihe crew to save not only themselves, but the ship
and cargo likewise:—
   It is, that  every ship should be divided into four
equal  compartments,  with partitions of sufficient
strength; the probability,  in case ofa leak is, that
it would take place in one  of them;  and allowing
it to fill, the safety of the ship would not be endan- !
gered, for 3-4  of the cargo would remain  undam- j
aged.  To prove this, we will suppose a vessel of
one hundred tons so divided,  (though the  plan is
as applicable to a ship of one thousand tons as a
canal boat) and, that one of the compartments fill-
ed with water: this would not increase her weight
more than from six to eight tons, from the  cargo
previously occupying the space, and  reducing  her
buoyancy about one-third.  The same effect would
take place, was she sent out of port with only one-
fourth of her hull above water, though vessels are
more commonly sent out Avith one-third, and even
more.   Packets, as they carry little  or no cargo,
may  with safety be divided  into three compart-
ments.  In cases of fire  the  advantage is equally
obvious, as any of the quarters might be inundated
with safety.
                   BATHINO.

               Art of swimming.
  It has been observed before, that men are drown-
ed by raising their arms above the water; the  un-
buoyed weight of which depresses the head: all
other animals  have  neither  motion nor ability to
act iu i similar manner, and, therefore, swim  na-
turally.  When a man therefore  falls  into deep
water, he will  rise to the surface,  and continue
there if he does not elevate his hands.  If he move
his hands under the water in any manner he pleases,
his head will rise so high as to allow him  liberty
to breathe; and if he move his legs, as in the act
of Avalking, for rather of  walking up stairs), his
shoulders will rise above the water, so that lie may
use less exertion with his hands, or apply them to
other purposes.  These plain directions are recom-
mended  to the attention of  thrse who have,  not
learned to  swim iu their youth, and  they will, if
attended to, be found highly advantageous in pre-
serving life.
  If a person  falls  into the water, or gets out of
his depth,  and cannot swim—and  if he wishes to
drown himself, let him  kick and splash  as vio-
lent.)' as possible,  and he will soon sink.  On the
contrary, if impressed with  the idea that he is
lighter than the water, he avoids all violent action,
and  calmly but stead'ty strives to  refrain from
draAving in his  breath whilst under the water, and
keeps his head raised as  mudi as possible; and
gently, but constantly, movelMis hands and feet
in a  proper direction, there will be a great proba-
bility of his keeping afloat until some aid arrives.
               Cramp in bathing.
  For the cure of the cramp,  when swimming, Dr
Franklin recommends a Aigorous and  violent shock
of the part affected, by  suddenly  <md forcibly
stretching out the leg, which  should  be darted out
of the water, into the air, if possible.
            Precautions in bathing.
  Never venture into cold  Avater, when  the body
is much heated,
  Dr Franklin  relates an instance,  within his own
knowledge, of four young men, who, having work-
ed at harA'est in the heat of the day, with a view
of refreshing themselves,  plunged into a spring of
cold  water; two died upon the spot, a third the
next morning, and the fourth  recovered with great
difficulty.
  Be very careful Avhere  you  bathe, even though
ever so good a swimmer, lest there should be weeds
to entangle the feet, or any thing else to endanger
life.   It is by the neglect of this precaution  that
many good swimmers expose themselves to greater
danger than those  who cannot swim  at all; their
very expertness thus becoming fatal  to them, by
tempting them  into places where their destruction
is inevitable.
                 Sea-bathing.
  The use of the topic salt water bath, or indeed
of sea-bathing itself, when the water  is  warm,
(that is,) between 60 and 80 degrees  of heat, is in
many cases beneficial, when a colder temperature
would be decidedly injurious.
  It  may be satisfactory to know, that in situations
distant from the shore, where sea-water cannot be
had,  artificial sea-water, made by dissolving * lbs.
of bay-salt in 16 gallons of fresh water,  possesses
all the properties of the w>ter of the sea, a small
portion of sulphate of magnesia excepted.
               The shower-bath.
  The cold shower-bath is less alarming to ner-
vous persons, and less  liable  to produce cramps,
than  cold immersion; it may be considered as the
best  and  safest  mode of cold bathing, and is re-
commended iu many nervous complaints.
  It  has also afforded relief in some  cases of in-
sanity.
         Substitute for a  shower bath.
  Where the saving oi' expense is an object, it may
be effectually answered by filling a common water-
ing pot with cold water.  Let  the  patient  sit un-
dressed upon a stool, Avhich may be  placed in a
large tub, and  let the hair, if not cut  snort, be
i
i
i
i
i
i
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! 
260
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
  Sread over the shoulders as loosely as possible.
  ow pour the water from the pot over the patient's
 ead, face,  neck, shoulders, and  all parts of the
oody, progressively down to the feet,  until the
whole has been thoroughly wetted.
  A large sponge may, in some measure, be sub-
stituted for the shower bath; particularly in affec-
tions of the head, which arise from intemperance,
night watching, study, or other perplexity. Head-
acne, from these causes, will be greatly alleviated
by wiping the top and fore-part of the head with
a sponge frequently dipped in water.  The cold
thus produced will check  the  determination  of
blood to the  head,  and  has often  b'eu known to
prevent delirium and insanity.
                The tepid-bath.
  On immersing the body in a  tepid-bath, which
takes its range from 85 to 95 degrees,  no striding
sensation either of heat or cold i? felt.  But a per-
son much chilled, will, on entering the tepid-bath,
feel the water warm, while another, who had been
heated by exercise,  will find it insensibly cold.
  The tepid-bath is attended with several advan-
tages: the surface of the skin is, by it, freed  from
that scaly matter, which always collects more or
less in the healthiest person; the pores of the skin,
thus being free,  the  natural perspiration is pro-
moted,  the limbs are rendered supple, and any
stiffness, which may have been produced by  exer-
tion, or fatigue, is removed.   Such immersion has
been found to allay thirst; a proof that a quantity
of water is absorbed, and enters the body through
the skin.
  The tepid-bath seems the best adapted to the
purposes of cleanliness and healthy exercise.  To
delicate females, and young children, it is of pri-
mary importance.-  Nothing can  be  more absurd
than the common practice of mothers and nurses
in washing children, no matter how  sickly or un-
well, Avith cold water, under the  idea of bracing
the constitution: whereas, the  use of tepid water
alone, is not only the most agreeable, but the most
proper fluid to excite the energies of the system
in young children.
  Affusion with  tepid  water has generally the
same result, except, that if the body continue ex-
posed to the air after the affusion, a sensation of
cold is produced, which ought to be avoided, by
wiping dry the upper part of the  body, whilst the
lower extremities arc still covered with water.
   There can  be litlle doubt, that human existence,
by tepid bathing, temperance, and proper exercise,
may  be made more  agreeable, and  also be pro-
longed.
IJENERAL RULES FOR PRESERVING LIFE AND HEALTH.

            Sir R. Phillips's rules.
  1.  Rise early, and never sit up late.
  2.  Wash the whole body eveiy morning with
cold  water, by means of a large sponge,  and rub
it dry with a rough towel, or scrub the whole body>(
for ten or fifteen minutes with flesh brushes.
  S.  Drink water generally, and avoid excess of
spirits, wine, and fermented liquors.
  4.  Keep the body open by the  free use  of the
syringe, and remove superior obstructions by ape-
rient pills.
  5.  Sleep in a room which has free access to the
open air.
  6.  Keep the head cool by washing it when neces-
lary  with cold water,  and abate feverish and in-
flammatory symptoms when they arise  by perse-
lering stillness.
  7.  Correct symptoms of plethora and indigestion
by eating und drinking less per diem for a few days.
  8. Never eat a hearty supper, especially of ani-
mal  food; and  drink wine,  spirits, and  beer, if
these are necessary, only after dinner.
             Dr Boei-haave's rules.
  This great man  left,  as a legacy to the world,
the folloAving simple and unerring directions for
preserving health; they contained the sum and sub-
stance of his vast professional knoAvledgc, during
a long and useful life:—" Keep the feet warm; the
head cool; and the body  open."—If these  were
generally attended  to,  the  physician's aid  would
seldom be required.
                   Clothing.
  To adapt the dress with a scrupulous nicety to the
fluctuations  of temperature every day, would in-
deed require such minute attention as hardly any
person can bestow:  but  every person may comply
with the general rules of clothing, as far  as not to
lay aside too early the dress of the winter,  nor to
retain that of the summer too late; from a neglect
of which precaution thousands of lives are  every
year sacrificed to  mortality. The  perfection of
dress, considered merely as such, is to fit without
fettering the body.
                     Air.
  Nothing is more pernicious than the air of  a
place where  a  numerous  body of people are col-
lected together within  doors; especially if to the
breath of the crowd there be added the vapours of
a multitude of candles, and  the consumption of the
vital air by fires in proportion.  Hence it  happens,
that persons of a delicate constitution  are liable to
become sick or faint in a place of this kind.  These
ought to avoid, as much as possible, the air of great
towns; which is also peculiarly hurtful to the asth-
matic and consumptive, as il is likewise to hysteric
women, and  men of weak nerves.   Where  such
people  cannot  always live  without  the  verge of
great towns, they ought, at least, to go out as  often
as they  can into the open air, and, if possible, pass
the night in the wholesome situation of the suburbs.
                   Ventilation.
   Air that has long stagnated becomes extremely
unwholesome to breathe,  and  ofton  immediately
fatal.  Such is that of mines,  wells, cellars, he.
People ought therefore to  be very cautious in en-
tering places of this description Avhich have  been
long shut up.  The air of some hospitals, jails,
ships, &c. partakes of the same unwholesome and
pernicious nature; and they o'ight never to be des-
titute of ventilators—those useful contrivances for
expelling foul, and introducing  fresh air into its
place.  The same may be  said of all places where
numbers of people are  crowded together.
   it is found that  most plants  have the  property
of correcting bad  air  within a few hours,  when
they are exposed to the light of the sun; but that,
 on the contrary, during the night, or in the shade,
 they corrupt the common  air of the atmosphere.
 Hence  it is a dangerous practice to have shrubs in
 an apartment that  is slept in.
             Ventilation of churches.
   Both in  public  and private  buildings there are
 errors committed, which affect in an extraordinary
 degree the salubrity of the air.   Churches are sel-
 dom open above once a week; they are never ven-
 tilated by fires, and rarely by opening the windows:
 while, to render the air of them yet more unwhole-
 some, little or no attention is paid to keeping theni
 clean.   The consequence of which  is,  thai they
 are damp, musty, and apt  to prove hurtful to peo-
 ple of  weak constitutions; and it is a common re-
 mark,  that a person cannot  pass through a large
 church or cathedral,  even in summer,  without a
 strong sense of coolness.
               Ventilation of houses.
    The great attention paid to making houses close 
MEDICINE.
261
 and warm, though  apparently well adapted to the
 comfort of the inhabitants, is by no means favoura-
 ble to health, unless care be taken every day lo
 admit fresh air by the windows.  Sometimes it mav
 be proper to make use of what is called pumping
 the room, or moving the door backward and for-
 ward for some minutes together.  The practice of
 making the beds early in the day, however it may
 suit conA-enietice  or delicacy, is doubtless impro-
 per.   «t would be much better to turn them down,
 and expose them to the influence of the air admit-
■ ted by the windows.
   For many persons to  sleep in  one room, as in
 the ward of a hospital, is hurtful to health; and I
 it is scarcely a less injurious custom, though often
 practised by those  who have splendid houses, for
 tAvo or more to sleep in a small apartment, especi-
 ally if it be very close.
   Houses situated in low marshy countries, or near
 lakes  of stagnating water, are likewise unwhole- j
 some;  as they partake of the putrid vapours ex- i
 haled in such places.  To remedy this  evil, those |
 who inhabit them, if they study their health, ought
 to use a more  generous  diet than is requisite in
 more  dry and elevated situations.                I
            Burying in churches, &c.            i
   It is almost  eA'ery where too common to have |
 church-yards in the  middle  of populous towns.
 This  is not only  reprehensible in point pf taste,
 but, considering how near to  the surface of the
 earth the dead bodies in many places are deposited,
 there  must necessarily arise putrid vapours, which,
 however imperceptible,  cannot fail to contaminate
 the air.  The practice of  burying in churches  is
 still more liable  to censure;  and not many years |
 ago, the pernicious effects of this custom were so |
 severely felt in France, as to occasion a posilive i
 edict against it.      •
     To dissipate noxious vapours in wells, &c.
   Procure a pair  of smith's bellows, affixed on a
 wooden frame, so as to work in the  same  manner
 as at the forge.  This apparatus  being  placed at
 the edge of the well, one end of a leathern tube,
 (the nose of a fire  engine) should be closely adapt-
 ed lo  the nose of the bellows, and the other end
 thrown into the well, reaching within one foot of
 the bottom.
   If the well be even so  infected,  that  a candle
 will not burn at a short distance from the top; af-
 ter blowing with the bellows only  half an  hour,
 the candle will burn  bright at  the bottom; then,
 without further difficulty,  proceed in the work.
   It is obvious, that in cleaning vaults, or working
 in any subterraneous  place subject to damps, the
 same  method must be attended with the like bene-
 ficial effects.
    Persons, whose business requires them to attend
 upon  large quantities of fermenting liquors, or to
 work in close places wilh lighted charcoal, fre-
 quently experience head-ache, giddiness, and other
 disagreeable  effects  from the   noxious  vapours
 which these exhale, and  often have their health
 impaired, or their lives endangered by a continu-
 ance in the employment,  in some cases, the dan-
 ger, perhaps, cannot be  avoided,  except  by going
 into the open air, as soon as head-ache or giddiness
 begins, and drinking a glass of cold water, or
 washing the face and neck with the  same.  In the i
 case of persons whose Avork requires charcoal fires, i
 the dangerous effects of it may be  prevented, by
 taking care uot.lo  sit near it  when burning, or to !
 burn it iu a chimney, and when there is none, to j
 keep the door open, and place a large tub of lime-
 water in the room.
 To protect gilders, jewellers,  and others from the j
          pernicious effects of charcoal.
   It is advisable for all those  who are  exposed to I
the vapours of charcoal, particularly gilders, jew.
ellers, refiners of metals, &c. to place a flat vesuel,
filled with lime-water, near the stove in which tlie
charcoal is burnt.
  The lime  strongly attacks  the  mephitic gas
evolved by the ignited charcoal, and preserves the
purity of the air.   When the surface of the water
becomes covered with a film, or pellicle, it  must
be changed for a fresh quantity.
To prevent lamps from proving pernicious to  asth-
                matic persons.
  The smoking of lamps is frequently disregarded
in domestic life; but the fumes ascending from oil,
especially  if  it be  tainted  or  rancid, are highly
pernicious, when inhaled  into  the lungs of  usth-
matic persons.  To  prevent this, let  a sponge,
three or four inches in  diameter, be  moistened
with pure  Avater, and in that state be suspended by
a string or wire, exactly over the flame of the lamp,
at the distance ofa few inches; this substance will
absorb all  the smoke emitted during the evening
or night, after which it should  be rinsed in warm
water, by which means  it will be again rendered
fit for use.
      To disinfect substances of the plague.
  Chlorine has been  successfully used in Spain for
this purpose, in the following manner.
  Expose four ounces of meat in a saucer, until it
becomes nearly putrid: suspend bits of paper, fur,
feathers, cotton,  silk, and wool, upon hooks fixed
in a horizontal piece of wood, attached to a perpen-
dicular one, which is supported by a pedestal of
lead; cover the whole with a bell-glass fixed in the
rim  of a piece of wood on which  the  saucer  is
placed.  The edges of the rim should be puttied.
Fix  a cork very tight in the top aperture of the
bell-glass, and let the whole rest in a warm room
for a fortnight.   On  withdrawing the cork, the de-
gree of putrefaction may be  easily ascertained.
When sufficiently impregnated, let each substance
be taken out in succession, and enveloped in a  sheet
of paper folded like  a letter;  and suspended on a
hook in another bell-glass, under which materials
for producing chlorine are placed in a saucer or
cup.  These materials are muriatic acid poured
over red oxide  of lead, or pulverized oxide  of
manganese.  In a short time the putrid odour will
be dispersed, and  the papers, which are  intended
to imitate letters supposed to be infected, will smell
only of chlorine.  Each letter should have three oi
four parallel  incisions  made  in it with a sharp
knife, to admit the disinfecting gas more readily.
To protect gilders from tlie pernicious  effects  of
                  mercury.
   They should have  two doors in their work room,
opposite to each other, which they should  keep
open, that there may be a free circulation of air.
They should likewise have a piece of gold applied
to the roof of the mouth, during the  whole time
of the operation.   This plate  will attract and in-
tercept the  mercury as they breathe, and when it
grows white they  must  cast it into the fire, that
the mercury may evaporate, and  replace it when
it is cool again.  They should,  indeed, have two
pieces of gold, that one may ue put into the mouth
whilst the other is  purifying and cooling; by these
means they will preserve themselves from the
diseases and infirmities which  mercury occasions.
             Riding and walking.
  For preserving health, there is no kind of exer-
cise more proper than walking, as it gives the most
general action to the  muscles of the body; but, for
valetudinarians, riding on horseback is preferable
It is almost incredible how much the constitution
may be strengthened by this exercise, whe.i conti-
nued for a considerable  time;  not so rauch in the
fashionable way of a  morning ride, but of making 
262
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 long journeys, in Avhich there is the farther advan-
 tage of a perpetual  change of air.  Numbers of
 people, reduced to a state of great weakness, have,
 by  this means,  acquired a degree  of  vigour and
 health,  which all the medical prescriptions in the
 Ayorld could not otherwise have  procured.   But, it
 is of importance, in  travelling for health, lhat one
 should  not employ  his mind in deep  reflections,
 but enjoy the company of an agreeable companion,
 and gratify his sight  with the prospect of the va-
 rious objects around him.   In this exercise,  as
 well as in every other, Ave ought always  to begin
 gently, and to finish  gradually, never abruptly.
              Exercise after meals.               \
   Exercise is hurtful immediately  after  meals,-
 particularly to those  of nervous and irritable con- !
 stitutions, ivho are thence liable to heart-burn,
 eructations, and vomiting.   Indeed, the  instinct of j
 the inferior animals confirms the propriety of this |
 rale; for they are al! inclined  to indulge  them- !
 selves in rest after food.   At all events, fatiguing i
 exercise should  be delayed  till digestion is per- I
 formed, which  generally requires  three or four
 hours after eating a full meal.
                 Reading aloud.
  This is a species of exercise much recommended |
 by  the ancient  physicians;  and to this  may be!
 joined that of speaking.   They  are  both of great i
 advantage to those who have not sufficient leisure I
 or opportunities  for other kinds of exercise.  To j
 speak very loud,  tiowever, or exercise the voice I
 immediately after a meal, is hurtful  to  the  lungs, I
 as well as to the organs of digestion.  Singing, as J
 by  the  vibratoiy motion  of the air  it  shakes the !
 lungs and the bowels of the abdomen  or  belly, pro- I
 motes, in a remarkable degree, the circulation of  i
 the blood.  Hence,  those sedentary artificers or'
 mechanics,  who,  from habit, almost  constantly
 sing at their Avork, unintentionally contribute much
 to the preservation of their health.
               Wind instruments.
  All these are more or less hurtful  to the lungs,
 which they Aveaken, by introducing much air, and
 keeping  that organ too long in  a slate  of disten-
 tion.  On this account, persons of weak lungs, who
 play much on the flute, hautboy, or French  horn,
 are frequently  afflicted with  spitting  of  blood,
 cough, shortness of breath,  and pulmonary con-
 sumption.  Blowing  those  instruments likewise
checks the circulation of the blood through the
lungs, accumulates it towards the head, and dis-
 poses such persons to  apoplexy.
                   Friction.
  One of the most gentle and useful kinds of exer-
cise, is friction  of the body,  either by  the  naked
hand, a piece of flannel, or what is  still better, a
flesh brush.  Th.s was in  great esteem among the
 ancients, and is so at  present in  the  East indies.
 The whole body may be subjected tc this mild ope-
 ration, but chiefly the belly, the spine, or  back-
 bone, and the arms and legs.  Friction  clears the
 skin, resolves  stagnating humours, promotes per-
 spiration, strengthens  the fibres,  and  increases the
 warmth and energy of the whole body,   in rheu-
 matism,  gout, palsy,  and  green  sickness, it is an
 excellent remedy. To the sedentary, the  hypo-
 chondriac, and persons troubled with indigestion,
 who  have not leisure to.take sufficient exercise,
 the daily friction of the belly, iu  particular, cannot
 be too much recommended as a substitute for other
 means,  in order  to  dissolve the thick  humours
 which may  be forming in the bowels,  by stagna-
 tion, and to strengthen the vessels.   But,  in rub-
 bing  the belly,  the  operation ought to  be per-
 forms, in a circular direction, as being most fa-
 vourable to the course of the intestines,  and their
 natural  action.   It should  be performed  in  the
 morning, on an empty stomacn, or, rather, in bed,
 before getting up, and continued, at least, for some
 minutes at a time.
                   Getting wet.
   This accident  is at  all times less frequent  in
 towns than*in the country, especially  since the use
 of the umbrella has been introduced.
   When  a person is wet  he  ought never to  stand
 but to continue  in motion till he arrives at a place
 where  he may be  suitably accommodated.   Here
 he should strip off his wet clothes, to  be changed
 for such  as are dry, and  have  those  parts of his
 body Avhich have been Avetted, well rubbed with a
 dry  cloth.  The  legs,  shoulders, and  arms, are
 generally the  parts  most exposed  to wet: they
 should, therefore, be particularly attended to.   It
 is almost incredible Iioav many diseases may be
 prevented by adopting this course.  Catarrhs, in-
 flammations, rheumatisms; diarrhoeas, fevers, and
 consumptions, are  the foremost among the  train
 Avhich frequently follow an accident of this kind.
 Precautions in removing from a hot to  a cold situa-
                      tion.
  It should be a determined rule to avoid all rapid
 transitions from one extreme to another, and never
 to remove from a room highly heated, to a fresh or
 cold air, while the body remains warm, or till the
 necessary change to a warmer dress has been pre-
 viously made.  If, at any time, the body should be
 violently heated, during the  warm weather,  it is
 sure to suffer by going into vaults,  cellars,  ice-
 houses, by  cold  bathing, or by  sitting on  cold
 stones, or damp earth: many  lingering and incura-
 ble maladies  have been brought on by  such impru-
 dence,  nay,  present death has, in some instances,
 been the consequence of such transgression.   Pul-
 monary consumption,  which  makes annually  such
 dreadful ravages among  the young  and middle
aged, has been frequently induced by such appa-
rently trifling causes.
              To keep the feet dry.
  The only method that  has been found to succeed
in keeping the feet dry is to wear, over the foot of
the stocking, a sock made  of  oil silk.   To keep it
in its proper place, it will be necessary to wear
over it a cotton  or worsted sock.  The general
health  being often disturbed by Avet feet, the above
directions ought to be generally attended to.
           7 o preserve the eye-sight.
  Never sit for 'iny  length  of time  in absolute
gloom, or exposea to a blaze of light.   The reason
on which  this rule is founded, proves  the impro-
priety of going hastily from  one extreme to the
other,  whether of darkness or of light, and shows
us that a southern aspect  is  improper for those
whose  sight is weak and tender.
  2.  Avoid reading small  print, and straining the
e)-es by looking al wnute objects.
  3  Do not read in the dusk, nor,  if the eyes be
disordered, by candle light.
  4.  Do not permit the eyes to dwell on glaring
objects, more particularly on first waking in the
morning; the  sun should not of course be suffered
to shine in the room at that time, and a moderate
quantity of light, only, should be admitted.  Foi
the same reasons, the furniture, walls, and other
objects of a bed-room,  should  not  he altogether
of a white or glaring colour:  indeed, those whose
eyes are weak, Aiould find considerable advantage
in hav:ng green for the furniture, and prevailing
colour, of their bed-chambers.   Nature  confirms
the propriety of this fact, for  the light of the day
comes  on by slow  degrees, and green is 'he  uni-
versal colour  she presents  to our eyes.
  5.  Those individuals who are ruber long-sight-
ed, should accustom themselves to read with leas
light, and with the  book  someAi hat nearer to the 
MEDICINE.
263
 eye than what they  naturally  like; while others,
 that are rather short-sighted, should use themselves
 to read with the book as far off as possible.  By
 these  means, both will  improve  and strengthen
 their sight, while  a  contrary course increases its
 natural imperfections.
               Use of spectacles.
   From  whatever cause the decay of sight arises,
 an  attentive consideration of the  following rules
 will enable any one to judge for himself, when his
 eye-sight may be assisted or preserved by the use
 of proper glasses.
  1. When Ave are obliged to remove small ob-
 jects to a  considerable  distance'  from Ihe eye in
 order to  see them distinctly.
  2. If we find it  necessary to get  more light than
formerly, as, for instance, to place the candle be-
 tAveen the eye and the object.
  3. If, on looking at, and attentively considering
 a near object, it fatigues the eye and becomes cou-
 fused, or :f it appears to have  a kind of dimness
 or mist before it.
  4. When small printed  letters  are  seen to run
 into each other, and  hence, by  looking steadfastly
 on them, appear double or treble.
  5. If the eyes are so fatigued  by a little exercise,
 that we  are  obliged to shut  them from time to
 time, so  as to relieve them by looking at different
 objects.
   When all these circumstances concur, or any of
 them  separately takes  place, it will  be necessary
 lo seek assistance from  glasses,  which will ease
 the eyes, and in some degree check their tendency
 to become worse:  whereas, if they be not assisted
 in time, the weakness will be considerably increas-
 ed, and the eyes be  impaired by the efforts they
 are compelled to exert.
                  Cosmetics.
  To set off the complexion with all the advantage
 it can attain,  nothing more  is requisite  than  to
 wash  the face with  pure water; or, if any thing
 farther be  occasionally necessary, it is  only the
 addition  of a little soap.
                   The teeth.
  An object very subservient to health, and which
 merits due attention,  is the preservation of the
 teeth; the care of which, considering their import-
 ance in preparing the food for digestion, is,  in
 general,  far  from  being  sufficiently cultivated.
 Very few persons, comparatively,wash their mouth
 in the morning, which ought always  to be  done.
 Indeed, this ought to be practised at the conclusion
 of every m?al, where either animal food or vegeta-
 bles are eaten; for the former is apt to leave behind
 it a rancid  acrim.uy, and the latter an acidity, both
 of them hurtful to the teeth.  Washing the mouth
 frequently  with cold water is not only serviceable
 in keeping the tee'.h clean, but in strengthening
 the gums, the firm adhesion of  which to the teeth
 is ot great importance in preserving them sound
 and secure.
                 Tooth powders.
  Many  persons, while laudably attentive to pre-
 serve their  teeth, do them hurt by too much offi-
 ciousness.   They daily apply to them  some denti-
 frice powder, which they rub so hard  as not only
 to injure the enamel by excessive  friction, but to
 hurt the  gums even more than  by ihe abuse of the
 pick tooth.  . Ihe quality of some of the dentifrice
 powders, advertised in newspapers, is extremely
 suspicious;  and there is reason to  think that they
 are not altogether free from a corrosive ingredient.
 One of the safest and best compositions for the
 purpose  is a mixture of two parts *f scuttlefish
 bone, and  one of the Peruvian bark,  both finely
 powdered, which is calculated not only to clean the
 teeth without nurting them, but to preserve the
 firmness of the gums.
   Besides the advantage of sound teeth, for their
 use  in  mastication,  a proper attention to  their
 treatment conduces not a little to the sweetness of
 the  breath.   This is,  indeed,  often  affected  by
 other causes,  existing in the lungs, the stomach,
 and sometimes even  in  the  bowels; but a  rotten
 state of the teeth, both from the putrid smell emit-
 ted by carious bones, and the impurities lodged in
 their cavities, never fails of aggravating an unpleas-
 ant breath wherever there is a tendency  of that
i kind.
                   Loose teeth.
j   When the  teeth are loosened by extern 1 vio-
j lence, by falls and blows, or by the improper use
j of instruments in  pulling diseased  teeth  in the
: neighbourhood of  sound ones, they may again be
j made tolerably fast by pressing them as firmly as
i possible into their sockets,  and preserving them
 so with ligatures of cat-gut, Indian weed, or waxed
 silk, and keeping the patient upon spoon meat till
 they are firm.   When loose teeth  are owing to
 tartar, nothing will fasten them till the cause be
 removed;  and this ought to be done early,  other-
 wise it will have no  effect.  Frequently the teeth
 become loose from  a  sponginess  of the  gums,
 often, but improperly, attributed to scurvy.  The
 best remedy  is scarifying ihe gums deeply, and
 allowing them to bleed  freely; this should be re-
 peated till they are fully fastened.  Mild  astrin-
 gents, as tincture of bark, are  here  attended with
 good effects, though those of a'strong nature will
 certainly do  harm.  The mouth  should  be fre-
 quently washed with  cold water strongly impreg-
 nated with these, and the patient should not use
 the teeth  which have been loose till they become
 firm again.  The loosening of the teelh in old age
 cannot be remedied, as it is owing to a wasting of
 their sockets, from which the teeth lose their sup-
 port.
                   Foul teeth.
   The teeth  sometimes become yellow or black
 without any adventitious matter being observed on
 them; at other times  they become foul, and give a
 taint to the breath, in consequence  of the  natural
 mucus of the mouth, or part of the food remain-
 ing  too long about  them.  The  most frequent
 cause of foul teeth is the substance called tartar,
 which seems  to be a deposition from the saliva,
 and with which the teeth are often almost entirely
 encrusted.  When  this substance is allowed to re-
 main, it  insinuates itself between the gums and
 the teelh, and then  gets'down upon the jaw in such
 a manner as to loosen the teeth.  This, indeed, is
 by far the most common cause of loose teeth; and
 when they have been long  covered with  this or
 with any other matter,  it is seldom they  can be
 cleaned without the assistance of instruments. But
 when once they are cleaned, they  may generally
 be kept so, by rubbing them with a thin piece of
 soft wood made into a kind  of brush, and dipped
 into distilled vinegar; after which  the  mouth is to
 be washed with common water.
               Cleaning the teeth.
   When the teeth are to be cleaned by instruments,
 the operator ought, with a linen cloth or with a
 glove, to press against the points of the teeth, so
 as to> keep them firm in their sockets,  wilh the
 fingers qf the one hand, while he cleans them with
 the necessary instruments held in the other; taking -■
 care not to scrape them sj hard as to loosen them,
 or to rub off ihe enamel.  This being done, the
 teeth should be rubbed over Avith a small brush, or
 a piece of sponge dipped in a mixture of cream
 of tartar and Peruvian bark.   The same applica* 
2*>4                           UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 tion may be made td the teeth for a few days, when
 afterwards they may he kept clean as already di-
 rected.                                   J
  The teeth are sometimes covered over with a
 thin dark coloured scurf, which has by some  been
 mistaken for a wasting of the enamel, but which
 is only an extraneous matter covering it.  Bv per-
 severance this may be cleaned  off as completely
 as where the teeth are covered with  tartar; but il
: s apt, after some time, to appear again. When this
 s ohservedj the same operation must be repeated.
  For the purpose of applying powders or washes
to the teeth, a brush or a sponge is commonly em-
ployed; the latter is supposed preferable, as beinj
in less danger of wearing doAvh the enamel, or of
separating the teeth.
              Measuring glasses.
  In order to measure quantities of fluids, glasses,
graduated on their sides (according to the folloAvint
figures), will be  found useful in all families  and
private laboratories:--
c
		«	=s=*^
S 3		3 G4	
7	—	—	56
e		-<	48
s			40
4:	—	-	32
3			24
2 ±	=1	z	16 & I I . —
1-7
  ->G
as.
4
M
-TO
  No. 1. represents stglass, calculated to measure
any quantity from two. drachms to eight ounces.
  No. 2. From one-drachm to two  ounces.
  No. 3. Frorob.alfa drachmto-one ounce.—And
  No. 4* Any quantity from, five minims (or drops)
to o»e d,rachm-
             Weights and measures.
  jjy the following tables it will be seen that in the
              Measure of fluids,
1 gallon measatie          * contains  8 pints,
 1 pint                              16 ounces,
 1 ounce                             8 drachms,
 1 drachm                           ^0 minims.
            Weight of dry substances.
                            contains 12 ounces,
                                     8 drachms,
                                    60 grains,
                                    20 grs.  or
   1-3 bf a drachm,
   It is customary to distinguish quantities^ fluids
1 pound
1 ounce
1 drachm
I scruple
from dry substances, by prefixhig the letter f. (fluid)
when an ounce or drachm is mentioned in medical
works, but In the foregoingprescriptions or formulae,.
this was considered to be unnecessary, as the slight^
est acquaintance with the substances.to be used, avill
point out what is implied.

           Scale of medicinal doses.
  The following table of the  gradations', of doses
of medicines for different ages, will in general be
found-pretty correct, and ought never to bedeviated
from, except by professional advice.
  It at the age of manhood the dose be one drachm,
the proportions will be at
  From 14 to 21 years,  2 scmples; 7 to  \* years,
half a drachm; 4  to 7  years, 1 scruple; 4 years,
15 grains/, 3 years, half a scruple; 2years, 8 grains;
1 year, 5 grains; 6 months, 3, grains;, 3 months,, Z
grainsi I month, 1 grain.
FARRIERY.
           To cure wounds in caftle.
  When horses, cattle,  or any of our domestic
animals are wounded, the trsatment may be very
simple, and much the same as in the human race.
It is extremely improper to follow a practice that
is common in many parts of the  countiy among
farrieii, cow doctors, and -ven shepherds—that ot
applying to the wound,  or putting  into the  sore
part, common salt, powder of blue vitriol, or tar,
or cloths dipped in spirits,  as  brandy, rum, he.
or turpentine, or any of.-er stimulant articles; for
all such very much increase the pain, and by irri-
tatiii"  the sore, may increase  the  inflammation
eveiAo  the  length of  iuducing mortification.—
Though the treatment may be varied according to
circumstances, yet, in most cases, it may be suffi-
cient to take notice of the follOAving particulars:—
It will be proper to wash away any foulness or dirt
about the part, and to examine particularly its con-
dition.
             To stop the bleeding.
  Should afty large blood-vessel  be cut, and dis-
charging copiously,  it will be right to stop it,  by
some lint or sponge, with moderate  compression,
or bandaging, at the same time, and not taking it
off for two or three  days.  Should  the pressure
fail of effect, caustic  applications, such as the lu-
nar caustic, Or even the actual cautery,  the point
of a thick wire, sufficiently  heated, may be tried;
or, if a surgeon be at baud, the vessel may  be 
EARRIERY.
265
taken up hy the crooked needle, With waxed thread,
and then tied.
          Adhesive plaster and senoing.
  Where there is no danger of excessive bleeding,
and a mere division of the parts, or a deep gash
or cut, it will be right to adjust the parts, and keep
them together by a strip of any common adhesive
plaster; or, when this will not  do by itself, the lips
of the wound, especially if it  be a clean cut, may
be  closed  by one or more stitches, with a mode-
rately coarse  needle and thread, which in each
istitch may be tied,  and the ends left of a proper
length,  so that they can  be  afterwards removed
When ithe parts adhere.   It is advised to tie the
'threads,  because  sometimes  the wounded part
swells so rrnuch that it is difficult  to get them cut
and drawn out, without giving pain and doing some
mischief.
                   Bandages.
  If the part Will  allow a roller or bandage to be
used, to  keep the lips of it together, this may like-
wise be employed; for by supporting the sides of
the wound, it  would lessen  any  pain which' the
stitches occasion.   With this treatment the Avound
heals often in a short time, or in a few days, rare-
ly  exceeding five or six,  and sooner in the young
and healthy, than in the old and relaxed, and soon-
er in the quiet and motionless, than in the restless
and active.  .
  Should the wound be large, and  inflammation,
with  the discharge of matter,  likely to take place,
it may still be  proper, by gentle means,  to bring
the divided parts near to each other, and to retain
them in their natural situation by means of a ban-
dage. » This should not  be  made  too tight, but
merely to support  the part.   In this way,  and by
avoiding stimulant applications,  the wound will
heal more readily than otherwise, and the  chance
of  any  blemish following will  be  diminished.
Washes of spirits, brandy, and the like,  Friar's
balsam,  spirit of wine anu camphor,  turpentine,
or  any other such irritating appl-cations, are high-
ly  improper,  and  sometimes make a fresh clean
 wound,  (that would readily heal  almost of itself,)
 inflame  and perhaps mortify, or become a bad sore.
                Sores and bruises.
   Over the whole sore, or where  the part is bruis-
ed, or where there is a tendency  to suppuration, a
 poultice should be applied and kept on by suitable
 bandages. The poultiee  may be made of any kind
 of  meal, fine bran, bruised linseed, or of mashed
 turnips,  carrots,  he.   The  following has been
 found useful as a common poultice. "Fine bran,
 1 quart; pour on it a sufficient quantity of boiling
 Avater tb make a thin paste; to this  add of linseed
 poAvder enough to give  it a proper consistence."
 The poultice  may be kept on for a week or ten
 days, or even longer, if necessary,  changing  it
 once or twice a day; and cleansng the wound, when
 the poultice  is removed,  by  washing  it by means
 of a soft rag or linen cloth, with water not more
 than blood warm, (some sponges are too rough for
 this purpose); or,  where the wound is deep,  the
 water may be  injected into it by  a syringe, in or-
 der to clean it from the bottom.
                    Ointment.
   In the course of a few days, when the wound, by
 care and  proper  management w.i<|j the poultices,
 begins to put on a healthy appearance, and seems
 to  be clean and of a reddish  colour, not black or
 bloody, then there may be applied  an ointment
 made of tallow,linseed  oil,  bees' wax, and hogs'
 iard, in such proportion as to make it of a oonsis- j
 tence somewhat firmer than butter. The ointment
 should be spread on some soft clean tow, and when
 applied to the sore, il ought never to be tied hard
 upon it, (which  is done  too  frequently and very
       21
improperly,) but only fixed by a bandage of a pro-
per length and breadth, (for a mere cord is often
improper,)  so close and securely as to keep  it
from slipping off. This application may be chang-
ed dnce a day; or Avben nearly well, and discharg-
ing but little, once in two days.
           Green ointment for wounds.
  Put into a well glazed  earthen vessel',  2 ounces
of bees' a-ax; melt it over a clear fire, and add 2
ounces of rosin;  when that  is melted, put  in half
a pound of hogs' lard; to this put 4 ourwses of tur-
pentine;  keep stirring all the time with  a clean
stick or wooden spatula.   When all is well mixed,
stir in 1 ounce of finelv powdered  verdigris.  Be
careful  it does  not boil  over; strain it through a
coarse cloth, and preserve it in a gallipot.   This
ointment is very good for old and recent wounds,
whether in flesh  or hoof;  also galled backs, crack
ed  heels,  mallenders, sallenders, bites,  brokei
knees, he.
  Treatment, according to appearance of the part.
  When the wounded part begins to, discharge
whitish, thick matter, and is observed  to  fill up
the general  treatment and  dressings to the sore
now mentioned,  should be  continued: and in the
course of the cure, the animal, when free of fever,
may be allowed better provision, and may take
gentle exercise.  If the animal be feeble, from the
loss of blood originally, or from the long continu-
ance of a feverish state, produced by the  inflam-
mation  attending the wound, or from  weakness
arising  from confinement,  or connected Aiith its
constitution naturally; and if the wound  appear to
Lv- in a stationary state, very pale and flabby on its
edges, Avith a thin discharge, then better food may
be given to it; and if still no change should be ob-
served, along with the better food, the wound may
be  treated  somewhat differently from  Avhat has
been already advised. The ointment may be made
more stimulant,  by adding to it some resin and less
bees' wax, or what would be more stimulant still,
some common turpentine; for it is only in very rare
cases that oil of turpentine can be requisite. The
effects of an alteration in the mode of treatment
should  be  particularly remarked,  and  stimulants
should be laid aside,  continued or increased,  ac-
cording as may be judged proper.  Beforeichang-
ing the dressings applied to the wound,  or»before
rendering them  more stimulant and active by using
heatinc-applications, the  effect of closer bandaging
may btrtried; for sometimes, by keeping the parts
a little more firmly together, the cure is promoted.
              Food and regimen.
   In case of severe  wounds, attention  should be
paid to the condition  ol  the animal in other res-
pects.  There being always when such happen a
tendency to violewt  inflammation and fever, that
may  end fatally. Cleans should  be  employed  to
moderate both.  The apartment should be cool and
airy, and so quiet  that the animal should  not be
 disturbed; the drink should not be warm but rather
 cold, and  given freely,  though  not in too large
 quantities at a time; the  food-should be sparingly
 given, and  of a poorer  quality than usual, and
 should be  rather succulent and laxative, than dry
 or apt to produce  costiveness;  bleeding  may be
 employed either generally from a vein, or in some
 cases, when it can be done,  by cupping from the
 hurt part,  as in the case of a bruise (though this
 last will seldom be requisite or found convenient),
 and it may be done more than once or twice, as
 ir>ay seem  proper;  laxative  medicines also  ought
 to ne gkven and repeated, as there may be occasion.
                    Abscess.
   These are swellings containing matter, that make
 their appearance in different parts  of the  body
 The  i\-<nedies are,  first, to bleed,  than  to wash 
2G6
UNIVERSAL,
RECEIPT BOOK.
the swollen part with a quart of vinegar, in which
are dissolved  two ounces of sal  ammoniac,  and
half an  ounce of sugar  of lead.   If the swelling
does not abate in two or three days, apply the .sup-
purating poultice.   When  the tmnour becomes
soft aud points, open it with a lancet, and  let out
the mailer.  Then dress it with basilicon ointment.
                Anbury or wart.
  Tie a strong silk,  or two or three horse-hairs,
round the neck of the wait,  lightening it gradual-
ly till it falls away.  Then  dip a piece of tow in
nlum-Avater and  bind it on the spot for a whole day.
Heal the sore  with the green  ointment.
                 The sta/gers.
  Bleed the animal copiously, (the disease is a true ,
apoplexy), 2i quarts at once; then give him half a
pint of linseed oil, the same of castor oil, 4'J grains
of calomel,  60 do. of jalap,  and two ounces  of
tincture of aloes.   Give him twice a  day warm
bran mashes.
              For loss of appetite.
  Take a quart of blood' from the neck, and give
him a purging ball made as  follows:  Aloes, I oz.
«alap, 1  drachm, rhubarb, 1 do.  made  into a ball
with castor oil and half a drachm of ginger.
               Inflamed bladder.
  Make 'he animal drink largely of flaxseed  tea,
barley or rice water, or any mucilaginous  liquid,
and inject a portion of the same frequently.  Bleed-
ing,  and a dose  of  castor  oil  are never  to be
omitted.   After the oil has operated, give the fol-
lowing ball every sixth hour:  Powdered nitre, half
an ounce,  camphor, 1 drachm, liquorice powder,
3 drs. honey  sufficient  to form the ball.   Should
these means not relieve the animal, omit the ball,
and give 1 drachm of opium  twice a day.
                 Blood spavin.
  Clip off the hair from the  SAvelling, and  rub all
round outside of the swelling with a piece of hard
bt-own soap, then  apply to  the  swelling a blister
made of the following
              Blistering ointment.
  Hogs' lard, half an ounce,  bees'wax, 3 drachms,
sublimate, in fine powder, half a drachm, Spanish
flies, 2 drachms.   Mix them  all  well, and  spread
it on white leather, and apply it to the spavin.
                 Bone spavin.
  This may he treated like the former;  it is, how-
ever, generally incurable.  The operation of firing
(which should be done by a professed farrier), and
turning to grass, afford the only reasonable chances
of relief.
                    Bots.
  Three kinds of worms infest the bowels of hor-
ses, called by the English farriers bots, truncheons,
and maw-worms.  Ths  bol  infests the great gut
near the anus; it  is a small worm with a large
head, and may be frequently observed Ui the dung.
  The triiiicheon is short and thick, with a black-
ish head, and  is found in the maw, where, if suf-
fered lo remain, it sometimes pierces through, and
thus is many  a fine horse destroyed.
  The maw-worm is of a pale red colour,  resem-
bling an earth worm, from two to three inches long,
occupying, also, the maw.
         Symptoms of worms in horses.
  Stamping forcibly on  the ground with either of
his fore-feet,  and frequently striking at his belly
with his hind  ones.  Belly projecting and  hard—
looking frequently behind him, and groaning as if
hi great pain.
              Remedies for wonts.
  Keep the horse  from all kinds of food for one !
day; at night, give him a small quantity of warm j
bran mash, made as usual, and directly after, a ball
made of 1 scruple of calomel, 1 do. of turpeth
mineral, and  as much crumb of bread and honey I
as will form the mass.   Next  evening g've linn a
pint of castor, and half a pint of linseed oil.  The
animal is then to be fed as usual for two or three
days, and the same plan again to be employed.
           Inflammation of the bowels.
  This not very common, but  when it does occur
dangerous, disorder is of two kinds.   The first or
peritoneal inflammation begins with an appearance
of dulness and uneasiness in  the animal; appetite
diminished or totally gone;  constant pawi..g with
the fore feet, frequently trying to kick the belly;
he  lies  dcAvn,  rises suddenly, looks round lo his
flanks—countenance strongly expressive  of pain;
urine small, high coloured, and voided with great
pain;  pulse quick and  small; legs and cars cold;
profuse sweats; mortification and death.
  The second species of the disorder is when tht
inflammation attacks the internal coat.of the intes-
tines,  and is generally  accompanied by a violent
purging and some fever—the symptoms of the lat-
ter, however, are much less violent, nor does the
animal appear to be in so much pain.
                  '1 'rcatment.
  In the first or peritoneal inflammation, the only
dependence is  on early and large bleedings.  In
addition to this rub the whole  belly well Avith the
mustard embrocation,  clothe the animal warmly
(with fresh sheep Skins  if possible), insert several
rowels about the chest and belly, putting into them
the blistering ointment.  As the horse is generally
costive give him a pint of castor oil, and inject
clysters of warm flaxseed tea, give him warm water
or thin gruel or flaxseed tea to drink, rub his legs
with the hands  well, and see that he has plenty of
clean  fresh  litter.  If in six hours the disease is
not relieved, bleed him  again, and should the cos-
tiveness continue repeat the oil and clysters.   If,
after giving  all these remedies a faithful and con-
tinned  trial, the  pain  should  continue, recourse
may be had to the ano lyne clyster.
  In the second species of this  disorder, bleeding
need not be resorted to unless the febrile symptoms
run high.   Clothe the horse warmly, use the mus-
tard embrocation freely, and omit the oil.   Give
him frequently by means of a bottle (if he will not
drink it) quantities of very thin gruel or flaxseed
lea.  If in spite of this the disease continues, use
the anodyne clyster; if that  fail  the astringent
draught.   The pain occasioned by physicking, is
to be relieved by large clysters of  thin gruel or
flaxseed, which produce copious evacuations and
relief.
                 Broken wind.
  This is an incurable disease; all that can be done
is to relieve the animal  for a time so as to enable
him to  perform a day's work.  To do this make
the following
      Paste ball for broken-winded horses.
  Assafcetida two ounces, elecampane two ounces,
flowers of colt's-foot two ounces, powdered squills
two drachms, linseed powder one ounce, honey as
much as will make  the  mass.   Divide it  in four
balls and give one morning and evening.   Much
benefit may result from bleeding in this disorder
at an early period of  the complaint.  His food
should be  carrots or turnips.  The hay, oats, or
whatever is given, should be in small quantities at
a  time, and always  sprinkled with clean,  soft
water.
                 Broken knees.
  Apply a poultice of bread and milk or bread and
warm Avaterto reduce the inflammation, then dress
the wound wilh basilicon.
                Burns or scalds.
  If slight,  apply cold lead water; if extensive, a
liniment made of equal parts  of linseed  oil  and
lime water.  If there is much fever  bleed. 
FARRIERY.
2(57
                   Canker.
  Cut away freely all  the  diseased parts,  and if
neeessary draw the frog, then apply the
             Liniment for canker.
  Warm 6  ounces of tar, mix with it drop by drop
1 oz. by measure of oil of vitriol, then add 1 oz.
of oi' of turpentine.   Bind this firmly on the part,
destroying all the diseased protuberances Avith lu-
nar caustic.  When the wound looks healthy, dress
it with the green .ointment.
                 Capped hocks.
  If the swelling proceed from a bruise or a blow,
bathe it three or  four times a day with salt and
vinegar made warm.   If it proceed from a natural
cause, apply the suppurating  poultice, and when
matter is formed  let it out, then  use the green
ointment.
                     Cold.
  Take a quart of blood from the neck,  then give
warm  mashes with a scruple  of nitre  in them.
Purge Avith castor and linseed  oil, and  keep the
stable warm.
                 Convulsions.
  Symptoms.—The horse raises his head higher
tnau usual  and pricks up his ears—neck stiff and
immovable, skin  tight.  He stands in a straddling
posture,  pants and breathes with difficulty.
   Cure—Bleed him if his strength will  permit it,
and his pulse is high,  eye  red, &c. otherwise not.
If you observe bots or any other kind of  worms,
pursue the  treatment recommended for ihem.
                    Cough.
  Take a quart of Wood from the neck, and give
the following
                Ball for cough.
  Half an ounce of  Venice soap, half an ounce of
nitre, ten grains of tartar  emetic, and ten grains
of opium.  Make these into a ball with honey, and
give one every other night.  Keep the horse warm
and remedy costiveness by castor oil.
                    Corns.
  Let the farrier cut them out with a sharp knife.
Should they show a disposition to grow again, touch
them Avith oil  of vitriol or caustic and dress  them
with  green ointment.  Be careful in shoeing not
to let the shoe press on the corn.
                     Curb,
  Cauterize the curb in a line down its middle and
then apply the blistering ointment.
                 Cracked heels.
  Poultice  the parts with carrots or turnips boiled
soft three or four times, then anoint them with yel-
low basilicon mixed with a little green ointment.
                  The gripes.
   As soon as the  disease is  observed, give the
draught  below, and a clyster composed of 8 oz.
common salt in six quarts of water gruel or warm
water.   If there  is great  pain  with  quick pulse,
take away three quarts of blood.  The  belly should
be well ruobed with the  mustard or other stimu-
lating  embrocation.  If no relief  is  obtained in
two  hours repeat the draught and embrocation,
aud should even this fail give him a pint of castor
oil with  one anJ  a  half ounces of laudanum.  If
castor oil cannot  be had a pint and a quarter of
linseed oil  may be used.
              Draught for gripes.
   Balsam copaiva 1  oz. oil ot juniper 1 drachm,
spirit of nitrous  ether half an  ounce, mint water
I pint.   Mix for one  dose.
                   Diabetes.
  This disord t, which consists in an involuntary
discharge of the urine, which is pale and thin, fre-
quently proves fatal.  To cure it, take a quart of
blood from the neck and give the following
               Ball for diabetes.
   Peruvian bark four drachms, ginger one  drachm,
if costive after it, give a pint of castor oil.  Repea.
if necessary.
                    Eyes.
  Inflammation of the eyes is  often cured  by scd
rifying with a lancet the inside of the upper anr
lower brow, and the distended vessels of the eye
itself.  It is to be remembered that in treating ar
inflammation of this  important organ, Ave  should
proceed  precisely  as if treating  a human being
labouring under the same complaint, and keep ths
animal on  short allowance, prevent costiveness,
keep the stable cool and dark.
  Soreness or weakness of the  eyes is cured  by
bleeding from the neck and using the following
                 Eye-w>\ter.
  To one quart of water put three drachms of the
sugar of lead and two drachms  of white  vitriol.
When dissolved let it settle and pour off the clear
liquorifor use.  A drop may be put into each eye
three times a day with a feather.
               Film or cataract.
  There is no remedy for this  but an experienced
farrier.   There are a variety  of washes,  he. re-
commended by various authors,  but they are use-
less.
                    Farcy.
  This disease  commences in small hard knots,
which soon become  soft  and ulcerous,  generally
situated on the veins and extending upwards.  It
is a contagious disorder, and not unfrequently ends
in the glanders.
                Cure for farcy.
  Open the  ulcers  and touch the inside  of the
edges  slightly with powdered  verdigrease,  by
means of a camel's hair Aencil.  Al the same time
give  the  following  ball:  White arsenic eight
grains,  and corrosive  sublimate six grains, pow-
dered and mixed with flour or bread or any other
vehicle that will form a ball with molasses. Keep
the animal warm, mix chopped  carrots with his
mashes.  Intermit one day and give a similar ball
—if it purge add 10 grains of opium to it.  Attend
constantly to the ulcers; wash them with warm
soap-suds, and keep the animal by himself—if the
disease gains the nostrils and  head, and becomes
glanders, shoot him at once. There is no remedy.
                    Grease.
  Wash the part well with  warm soap-suds twice
a day, and if the swelling is great apply a poultice
to it, when the sores are cleansed touch them with
a rag or feather dipped in the vulnerary water.
                Foundered feet.
  This is known by the  contraction of the hoof,
which Avill  appear  considerably smaller than the
sound one.  The horse just touches the  ground
with the toe of the foundered  fool on  account of
pain, and stands in  such a tottering way that you
may 3hove him over with your hand.
  Cure___Take off the shoe, bleed freely from the
thigh vein, and purge two or three times.   Keep
the hair close trimmed and the parts clean.
                 Hoof-bound.
  Cut down several lines from the coronet down
to the toe all round  the hoof and fill  the cuts with
tallow and soap mixed.   Take  off the shoes and
(if you can spare him) turn the animal into a wet
meadow, where his feet will be kept moist. Never
remove the sole nor burn the lines down, as this
increases the evil.
                   Lampas.
  This consists in a swelling of the first bar of the
upper palate.  It is cured by rubbing the swelling
two or three  times  a day with half an  ounce  ot
alum and the same quantity of double refined sugar
mixed with a little honey.
                   Laxity.
  Never attempt to stop the discharge too  sudden- 
£fJ8                           UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
ly or too soon; this common but erroneous practice
has  killed many fine horses.   To begin the cur*i
give him the following
               Mild purging ball.
  "Rhubarb in powder 1 ounce, magnesia half an
'Ounce, calomel 1 scruple, oil of aniseed 1 drachm,
make up a ball with honey and liquorice powder.
Next day  give  the  horse 1 fluid ounce of liquid
laudanum, with 20 grains of tartar emetic in a pint
of water.  On the third day repeat the purge, then
the drench, until the  animal is well.
           Inflammation of the lungs.
   Bleed the animal copiously  as soon as the com-
plaint is perceived, and repeat it in six hours if the
fever, quickness of breathing, he. do  not  abate.
Blister his f:des, rowel  the  chest, <i.id give the
following ball, which is to be taken morning and
evening until  ihe staling is considerably increased,
one a day will then be sufficient.  Grass oV bran
n,ashes should be the food.
   The ball.—Powdered nitre 6 drachms, camphor
1 drachm, as much syrup and linseed meal as will
form the ball.
                  Mallenders.
   Wash the cracks well with warm soap-suds and
a sponge, and then with the vulnerary water twice
every day, wipe the parts dry and apply the green
ointment.
                    Mange.
  Wash with soap-suds  and vulnerary water, and
purge with castor oil.  Feed the horse well and
work him moderately.
                 Molten grease.
  Bleed and  purge moderately, feed regularly on
a Diminished allowance.
                   Poll evil.
  Bring the swelling to a head as any other tumour
by the  suppurating  poultice,  which is made as
follows:
              Suppurating poultice.
  lake four handsful of bran  and three middling
sized turnips, boil them till soft, beat them well
together; then boil them again  in milk to a thick
poultice, adding lo it 2 ounces of linseed ami half
a pound of hog's lard.
                    Quittor.
   Make an  opening for the  matter to descend
from all the neighbouring sinuses. Keep the parts
Aiell  cleaned Avith warm soap-suds, then inject the
vulnerary  water into the  sinuses.   If there is  a
core  touch it with caustic, when this is discharged
dress wilh the green ointment.
                  Ring bone.
   If  recent blister the part, if an old affection re-
course must be had to bring.
                  Sand-crack.
   Remove .he shoe and ascertain carefully the ex-
tent of the injury; if the  crack  is superficial, fill
it with the composition below,  and keep the foot
cool  and moist.   If the crack has extended to the
 sensible parts, and you can see any fungous flesh,
with a small diaAving knife remove the edges cf
the crack ;d horn thai press upon it.  Touch the
fungus  wilh caustic, dip a roll of tow or linen in
tar and bind it firmly over it.  The whole foot is
to be kept in  a bran poultice for a few days or
 until the lameness is removed.   A shoe may then
 be put on so as not to press on the diseased part.
The pledget of tow may now be removed, the crack
filled with the composition and the animal turned
 into some soft meadow.
           Composition for sand-crack.
   Beeswax four ounces, yellow resin two ounces,
 common turpentine one ounce, tallow or suet half
an ounce.  To be melted together.
                   Sit-fasts
   Are horny substances on the back under the sad-
dle.  Take hold of them  with a pair rf pincers
and cut them out radically: leave no part behind
or they will grow again.  Dress the Avound with
the green ointment.
                  SaUenders
  Require the same treatment as mallenders, which
see.
                   Strains.
  In whatever part of the body this accident oc-
curs, the treatment should be perfect rest, mode-
rate bleeding and purging  till the inflammation is
reduced, when any stimulating embrocation may
be used.
                  Strangury.
  Take away a quart of blood and  throw up a
laxative clyster; then give  one  ounce of salt-petre
and one fluid ounce of sweet spirits of nitre in a
pint of water.
                  Strangles.
  This is known by a swelling between the jaAv-
bone and the root of the tongue.  If a large tu-
mour appear ufnder the jaw apply the suppurating
poultice.  When it is ripe open it, squeeze out the
matter and  reapply  a warm  poultice.  In a few
days it will run off.  Give warm bran  mashes and
gentle exercise.
                   Thrush.
  Remove the shoe and pare off all  the  ragged
parts  so  as  to expose the diseased narts;  after
cleaning  the frog nicely apply a solution of blue
vitriol and shortly after  pour some  melted tar
ointment  into the cleft of the frog and cover  its
whole  surface with tow soaked in the same, and
on the tow a flat piece of wood about the width  of
the frog, one of its ends passing under the toe  of
the shoe, the other extending  to the back part  of
the frog and bound down by cross pieces ot wood,
the ends of which are placed under the shoe. Re-
peat the dressing every day.
                    Vives.
  This is a disease most common to young horses,
and consists  in a long swelling of the parotid gland,
beginning at the roots of the ears and descending
downwards.   If it is painful and inflamed, apply
'he poultice—if it suppurates1 open the lump, let
out the matter and dress with the green ointment.
If it is hard and  indolent  apply strong mercurial
ointment to  disperse it and bleed moderately.
                  Wind galls.
  These swellings appear on each side of the back
sinew, above the fetlock.  It is dangerous to punc-
ture them as is sometimes  done, as it may produce
an incurable lameness. Tight bandages and moist-
ening the parts frequently with a strong  solution
of sal ammoniac in vinegar may do some  good.
                   Wounds.
  All the rules  laid  down  in this book for the
treatment of wounds in the human subject,  apply
strictly to horses.  As in  simple cuts, however,
sticking plaster cannot  be used, the edges of the
wound should be neatly siitched together.  Much
can be done also  by the judicious application of
bandages.  Farriers, generally, are in ihe habit of
pursuing such absurd, cruel, and fatal practices in
these cases, either by cutting off a part that appears
to be partly  torn from its  connection,  or by using
stimulating applications, thai it becomes necessary
to repeat again, that all the rules laid down for the
treatment of wounds  iu this work as applicable to
man are equally  so to the  noble animal of which
we are speaking.   Read over these rules.  Substi-
tute the word " horse" for " patient *' and you will
be at no loss how to proceed.
              Bleeding in general.
   Bleeding is often the most useful and efficacious
means of curing  diseases  iu  horses, Sec.  In in-
flammatory affections, it is generally the first reme- 
FARRIERY.
26$
dy resorted to,  and its immediate  salutary effects
are often surprising.
  When it is necessary to lessen the Avhole quan-
tity of bood  in  the system, open  the jugular or
neck  vein.  If  the inflammation  is local, bleed
where it can be conveniently done,  either from the
part affected, or in its vicinity, as by opening the
plate  vein, superficial vein of the thigh, or tempo-
ral arteries.
  In fevers of all kinds, and when inflammation
attacks  any important  organ, as the  brain, eyes,
lungs, stomach, intestines, liver, kidneys, bladder,
he, bleeding is  of the greatest use.  It diminishes
the quantity  of blood  in the  body; and  by  this
means prevents  the bad consequences of inflamma-
tion.  The quantity of blood to  be taken varies ac-
cording to the age, size,  condition, and constitu-
tion of the horse, and urgency of the symptoms.
  From a large strong horse,  four or six quarts
will generally be requisite, and this may be re-
peated in smaller quantities if symptoms demand
it.  The blood, in these  diseases, must flow from
a large orifice made in the vein.  A horse should
never be suffered to bleed upon the  ground, but
into a measure  in order  that the proper quantity
may be taken. Young horses, also, while shedding
their teeth,  have sometimes much constitutional
irritation, which bleeding relieves.  But in these
affections it is very rarely necessary to bleed to the
same extent as in fevers,  &c; two  or  three quarts
generally suffice to be taken away.
               Fulness  of blood.
  Moderate bleeding, as  from two  to three or four
quarts, is also used to remove  fulness of habit, or
plethora, attended with slight inflammatory symp-
toms.  In this  case  the  eyes appear  heavy, dull,
red or inflamed, frequently closed as if asleep; the
pulse small, and  oppressed; the heat  of the body
somewhat increased; the  legs swell; the hair also
rubs off".  Horses that are removed from grass to a
warm stable, and full fed on hay and corn, and not
sufficiently exercised, are very subject to one or
more of these symptoms.  Regulating the quanti-
ty of food given to him,  proper exercire,  and oc-
casional laxatives, as  the  following powder, will
be commonly found sufficient after the first bleed-
ing, and operation of an  afoetie purge.  In slight
affections of this kind,  a brisk purge will  often
alone be sufficient.
        Laxative and diaphoretic powder.
  Take of crocus of antimony, finely levigated,
nitre, cream of  tartar, and flower of sulphur, of
each, 4oz.
   Powder and  mix them well together for use.
   One table-spoonful of this mixture may be given
.every night and morning, in as much scalded bran,
or a  feed of  corn moistened with  water,  that the
poivders may adhere thereto.
   This  powder will  be  found excellent  for such
horses  as are kept on dry meat, whether they be
in  the  stable,  or travel on the  road; also  for stal-
lions in the spring of the year, as they not  only
keep the body cool and open, but cause him to cast
his coat, and  make  his skin appear as  bright as
silk.
                    Purging.
   In  obstinate grease  an-* swellings of the legs, ac-
companied with lameness of the joints, dry coughs,
worms,  diseases  of the  skin,  farcy,  apoplexy  or
staggers, affections of the liver, and several other
diseases treated of in this book, mercurial purges
are of the greatest service.  They purge; destroy
worms;  generally increase the Aoav of urine;  ope-
rate upon the skin, liver, and other viscera in a pe-
culiar manner; cause a  healthful  action in  these
parts; and remove many chronic complaints  inci-
dent totha horse.  Great caution is necessary dur-
ing their operation, lest the horse take cold.  The
water given him must be warm, and when exer-
cised he should he properly clothed.
  Horses that are kept on dry meat, and are  full
fed,  with  little or no exercise, require regular
purging every six months, with two or three doses
each time, allowing proper intervals between each;;
and  those  horses which run  in  stage-coaches,
chaises (whose labour is often more than their na-
tural strength is able to bear), and such whose legs
are inclined to swell—all require purgative medi-
cines; the use of which would be a means of pre-
venting many of the diseases that attack this useful
animal.
         To prepare horses for physic.
  After violent exercise, horses are liable to lose
their appetite, and to have  their stomach loaded
with crudities  and  indigested matter;  the  non-
removal of which, by the use of proper physic, ia
the chief cause why so many die daily. Previously
to administering a purge, the body should be pre-
pared.
  The proper  method  of preparing a  horse for
physic, is to give him two or three mashes of the
scalded bran and oats, and warm water,  for three
or four days together.  This will soften the fasces,
and  promote the operation of the medicine.   But
if a strong purge be given to ahorse of costive ha-
bit, without preparation,  it will probably occasion
a violent inflammation.
          Purgative balls for  horses.
  Take of Barbadoes aloes, 7£ oz.; Castille soap,
1$ oz.;  powder ginger, l£ oz.;  oil of aniseed, 2
drachms;  syrup,  a  sufficient quantity to make 6
balls, each of which is a dose.
         Drink to check over purging.
  Take of prepared chalk, ginger, and aniseeds, in
powder, each 1 ounce, essential oil of peppermint,
15 drops, rectified spirit of wine, £  an ounce.
  Mix the whole in a pint and a half of warm lin-
seedgruel, and give it.
  Anot/ier.—Take of prepared chalk,  2 ounces,
aniseeds, and caraway seeds, in powder, each 1 oz.;
opium, £ a drachm.  Mix, and give it in a pint of
linseed  gruel.
        Astringent drink after looseness.
  If the looseness continue, after the above drink
has been administered for 2 or 3 days, the follow-
ing astringent drink may be given.
  Take of pomegranate shell, in powder, and pre
pared testaceous powder, each 1 oz.; Dover's pow
ders, and ginger powdered, each 2  drachms. Mix,
and give iu a pint of warm gruel, and repeat twice
a day.
                  Cough drink.
  Take of Barbadoes tar, anisated balsam of sul-
phur, each 1 oz.  Incorporate them with the yolk
of an egg, then add, nitre, 1 oz., ginger, A an oz.,
tincture of opium, 1 oz.  Mix them together.
  Let this drink be gradually mixed in  a pint ot
warm ale or linseed tea, and giA-e it in the morning
fasting; let Ihe horse stand  without  meat for two
hours after, then give him a mash of scalded bran
and- oats arid  warm water.   Repeat every other
morning, for three or four times.
             Fever ball for horses.
  Take of antimonial powder, tartansed antimony,
and camphor,  each  1 drachm; nitre and Castille
soap, each 2  do.;  Barbadoes aloes, 2  drachms.
Mix, and beat them into a ball with syrup of buck-
thorn.
  Let this ball be given to the horse about 2 hours
after bleeding; and in 6 hours after giving him the
ball, let him have the following
               Purgative drink.
  Take of Epsom salts, 4 oz.; nitre,  $ an  oz.;
coarse s'ugar, two table-spoonsful.  Dissolve them
                                    JT2 
270                         UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK
  in a quart of gruel; then add 10 oz. of castor oil.
  Mix, and give it while new milk warm.
   After  the first ball is given, the aloes may be
  left out, and then the ball and drink may be given
  once a day (one in the morning, and the other in
  the evening), until a proper passage be obtained.
          Powerful mixture for fevers.
   If the  fever  still continue to increase, it will be [
 proper to tal e  a little  more blood  from him,  and
 then to have recourse lo the following fever powder.
   Take of emetic tartar,  I oz.; calcined antimony,
 2 oz.; calcined hartshorn, I oz.   Mix, and  grind
 them in a mortar to a fine powder;  then put them
 in a bottle for use; 2 drachms  of these powders :
 arc a proper dose for a horse.
   A dose of this powder, with one ounce of nitre, !
 may be given twice or  three times a day, in a pint
 of warm gruel, or be  made into a  ball with con-
 serve  of  roses.  If the fever be vio.ent, and  the
 horse  in a raging state, | an ounce of tincture of
 opium may be added to each dose of powders.
        Drink for an inflammatory fever.
  Take of tartar emetic,  1 drachm; prepared kail,
 ^ oz.; camphor,,1 drachm, rubbed into  powder,
 with a few drops of spirit of wine.
  This drink is excellent for all kinds of inflamma-
 tory* fevers; especially such as are attended with
 imminent danger.   It  may be  given every  four
 hours, or three times a day, in a pint  of water-
 gruel.
          Purging ball for jaundice.
  Take of Barbadoes  aftes, from 4 to 5 drachms;
 white anlimonial  powder, and Castille  soap, each
 2 drachms;  calomel, 1 drachm.   Mix,  and beat
 Ihem into a ball with a sufficient quantity of syrup j
 of buckthorn.
  The horse  should have a couple of mashes the
 day before this ball is given, by way of prepara-I
 lion, aud ihe hall should be given  fasting the morn- !
 ing following; let him fast for two hours after, then i
 give  him  a mash of scalded bran  and oats, with j
 ivarin water, and treat  him in the same  manner as
 for other physic.
        Restorative balls after jaundice.
  Take of gentian and  caraway seeds, in powder,
of each, 8 ounces; powdered ginger, and precipi-
tated sulphur of  antimony, of each 6  drachms;
Castille soap, 1$ oz.; and honey  sufficient to form
 into 6 balls.
  One  of these  balls should be given every other
day for some  time.
        Pectoral balls for broken wind.
  Take of llarbadoes tar,  Venice turpentine, and
Castille soap, each 2 ounces; squills, in powder, 1
ounce; calomel, 3 drachms.  Beat  them well  to-
 gether; then add, nitre, 2 oz., aniseeds and  cara-
 Avay seeds, fresh powdered, each  1 oz. Beat  them
 into a mass wilh honey and liquorice powder, and
 divide  into ten balls.
     Alterative balls for surfeit, mange,  &c.
  Take of precipitated sulphur of antimony, gen-
 tian  root, and  socotrine  aloes, each 1 oz. in fine
 powder; nitre,  2 oz.; calomel, and  cantharides, in
 powder, each  L2 drachms.  Mix, and make  them
 into a mass tor  balls, with honey  or treacle.  Each
 bill lo Aveigh 1  ounce and a half.
  These balls  will be found vdry useful in many
 diseases; such as surfeit, hidebound, mange, grease,
 or swelled legs,  lameness of the joints, molten-
 grease, inflammation «:f the eyes, and,  indeed, in
 all lingering and obstinate diseases.  One ball may |
 be given  every other  morning,  for a fortnight or j
 three weeks together.
       Astringent ball for profuse staking.        \
  Take of galls and alum, in fine powder, of each I
 2 drachms; Peruvian bark, £ ounce.  Make into a j
 ball, with honey or treacle.                      ,
   It will be proper to repeat this ball every morn-
 ing, and,  if the disease is obstinate, every night
 and morning, and continue until the urine is dimin-
 ished to about its natural quantity.
       Restorative balls for profuse sialeing.
   Take of gentian root, in powder, half an ounce;
 ginger, powdered, 2 drachms; alum, 1 drachm;
 treacle, sufficient to make into a ball.
           Mercurial ball for worms.
   Take of calomel and Castille soap, of each 1 dr.;
 Avorm-seed, in powder, half an ounce.  Beat them
 into a ball with syrup of buckthorn.
   This ball should be given at night, and the fol-
 lowing drink, or purging ball, the next morning.
               Drink for worms.
   Take of Barbadoes aloes, from 3 to 6 drachms
 (according lo their  size and strength), Avorm-seed
 and gentian, in powder,  each  £ an  oz.; caraway
 seeds,  in  powder, 1 oz.   Mix, and give in a pint
 of strong decoction of  wormwood, and repeat  in
 about 4 or 5 days;  but omit giving the mercurial
 ball after the first time.
          Purging ball for the worms.
   Take of Barbadoes aloes, 8  drachms; ginger,
 Castille soap, and  oil of savin, each 2 drachms;
 syrup of buckthorn, sufficient to make them into a
 ball.
  This  purge is calculated for a  strong horse; but
 it  may be  made weaker, by lessening the quantity
 of aloes to 6 or 7 drachms, which are, in general,
 sufficient after a meicurial ball.   The horse should
 have mashes, warm water, and proper exercise.
 Stomach drink after the expulsion of the worms.
  Take of compound spirit of ammonia, and sweet
 spirit of nitre, each 1 oz.;  gentian root, in powder,
 1$ oz.; Peruvian bark, and hiera  picra,  in powder,
each half an ounce, horse-spice, 2 oz.   Mix the
 whole in three pints of ale, and divide into three
parts, and give one every morning fasting.
  Two  hours after, give  him a mash and wai-m
water.  The virtues of this drink deserve the high-
est commendation in restoring those  horses which
have been  much reduced by some  long-continued
disease; as in lowness of spirits; debility, and re-
laxation of the  solids; a loss of a;>pelite; and for
such also as are over-ridden, either in the field  or
on the road.
             Balls for the staggers.
  Take of James's powders, 2 drachms, turmeric,
and cream of tartar, each  half an ounce.  Make
them into  a ball with conserve of loses or honey; a
sufficient quantity.
            Clyster for convulsions.
  Take of linseed, and valerian root, each,  4  oz.;
boil them  iu 3 quarts of water to 4 pints; add, Ep-
 som salts, 4oz.; assafcetida, £ oz.; opium, 2 dr.
 Dissolve the whole in the above while hot, and ap-
 ply it new  milk warm.
  This is  a most powerful clyster in  all disorders
 of the intestines, that are attended with pain and
 convulsions, or spasms,  in those  parts, such  as
 a violent attack ot  the colic, proceeding from an
 obstruction iu the u»- Mary passage.
            To cure gripes r* horse.
  This disorder goes  by different names in differ-
 ent districts of the country: as fret, from the unea-
 siness attending it; bots, from its being thought  to
 arise from these animals or worms,  &j.   The
 animal  looks dull  aud rejects  his food; becomes
 restless and uneasy, frequently  pawing; voids his
 excrements in small quantities, and otten tries  to
 stale; looks round,  as if towards his own flank, or
 the seat of complaint; soon appears to get worse,
 often lying down, and sometimes suddenly rising
 up, or at  times trying to roll, even  in the stable,
 he.  As the disorder goes on, the  pain becomes
 more violent, he appears more restless still, kicks 
FARRIERY.
271
st his belly, groans, rolls often, or tumbles about,
with other marks of great agitation; becomes fe-
verish, and has a cold moisture at the roots of his
ears and about his flanks, and when he lies at rest
a little space,  begins to perspire  strongly, and  to
get covered with sweat more or less profuse.
  In most cases of ordinary gripes, signs of flatu-
lence, or of the  presence of air confined in the
boweis,  occur and constitute a part of the disease,
or increase it.   The removal  of it is, therefore, an
object to which the  attention of most grooms has
been in  a chief degree directed; and  as it can fre-
quently  be got rid of, and the disease cured, by
exciting the powerful action of tlie intestines,  cor-
dial and stimulating medicines are had recourse to,
and, no  doubt, in many have afforded  relief. Some
farriers, indeed, without much care in distinguish-
ing cases,  almost exclusively  rely upon  such, and
employ  them too freely.   This, however,  should
not be done:  for it sometimes happens, that disor-
ders not unlike flatulent  colic or gripes do occur,
when there is neither pent up air  present, nor any
relaxation or want of energy and action in the  in-
testines  themselves, and  stimulating  medicines
might then do no good, but often much mischfof.
  When the disorder is  early discovered, or has
newly come on, it will be proper to lose no time
to get ready a clyster, and likewise a  medicinal
draught for removing the wind  and abating the
pain. After removing with  the  hand any excre-
ment in the great gut that can be reac.'ied by it, a
clyster,  made of five or six quarts of water, or wa-
ter-gruel, blood  warm, and six or eighl ounces of
common salt, may be:njected: and one or other of
the following  draughts may  be  given,  before  or
about the same time:
             Draught for the same.
  Take  of Venice  turpentine, 1  oz., beat it up
with the yolk of an egg, and then add of pepper-
mint water, or even of common water, if the other
is not at hand, I pint and a half (English measure)
and 2 ounces of whiskey or gin.  This will serve
for one  dose.
  Another.—Take of table beer,  a little warmed,
l^ pint  (English); common pepper  or  powdered
ginger, 1 tea-spoonful;  gin, whiskey, or rum, from
2 to 4 ounces, or  from 1  to  2 glasses  full; these
mixed together for one dose.
  Another.—Oil of turpentine, 1 ounce, and water-
gruel, I 1-2 pints (English) mixed, for a dose.
,  These and the like  preparations may be given
either out of a bottle, or  drench-horn, one or two
persons raising and keeping properly up the horse's
head; while another,  who administers  the medi-
cine, pulls out, and a little aside,  the tongue, with
his  left hand, and  with the other pours . n  the
draught.
               Furtlier treatment.
  Cordial drenches of the kinds recommended,
with the clyster, will haA*e effect  in ordinaiy cases
to relieve the disorder.  But should this  not be the
case, after waiting an hour or two {longer or shorter
according to the severity of the ailment, or the pe-
riod since its commencement), then the medicine
should be repeated, but in a less dose than at first—
perhaps one-half or two-thirds of the former quan-
tity. The horse should be occasionally walked out,
properly covered with clothes, lest  the chill air
brin; on Jiivering, and give  rise to  feverishuess;
and  his  belly should be now and then rubbed a con-
siderable  time at once,  five or ten minutes, but
wilh intervals of rest,  so that it may  have time  to
stale or dung.  If the disorder does not yield to
these remedies, then others must be  employed of
a more active  nature.   Some  persons recommend
castor oil in the proportion of half a  pint to a pint
(English), with an  ounce or two  of laudanum, or
■ tincture of opium, mixed with water-gruel, ill the
 quantity ofa pint (English) or rather less.  In case
 the horse has lain down, and continued so for some
 time, and is  covered with  SAveat, when he rises,
 two or more  persons should  be employed to rub
 him dry, and he should also be kept well clothed.
 The stable should be airy, moderately cool, and
 his place in it roomy and well littered, to keep him
 from hurting himself should he roll about.
              White's Sail for gripes.
   Draughts of liquid medicine operate more spee-
 dily than any other form; but as the disorder may
 attack a horse during a journey, where such cannot
 readily be procured, Mr White has given a  receipt
 for a ball for the convenience of those who  travel;
 and if it be wrapped up closely in a piece of blad-
 der,  it may be kept a  considerable time without
 losing its power.  The ball is composed of the fol-
 lowing ingredients, viz.  Castille soap, 3 dr.; cam-
 phor, 2 drachms; ginger, 1 drachm and a half; and
 Venice turpentine, 6 drachms; to be made into a
 ball for one dose.
              Laudanum draught.
   Laudanum may be used in cases of urgency, es-
 pecially in the wet or lax gripes.   Take a quart of
 beer, and make it a very little warmer than blood
 heat;  then put a table-spoonful of powdered gin-
 ger into it, and a small wine-glassful of laudanum,
 just before it is given to the horse.  This,  in most
 cases,  will  give  ease in a short  time; but  it
 the complaint is exceedingly violent, give  about
 half the above  quantity again in 15 or 20 minutes.
 As s^on as the pain seems to be abated, if the belly
 is costive, give the horse a  purgative.  In  case of
 looseness no  purgative  must  be given, the lauda-
 num, which  is ofa binding  nature, will correct it.
    When pain is occasioned by inflammation, it is
 seldom proper to employ opium,  or any medicine
 of that kind; but Avhen it depends upon spasm, or
 irritation, no medicines are so  beneficial.   In in-
 flammation  of  the bowels, for example,   opium
 would  certainly do much  injury, but in flatulent
 dr spasmodic colic, or  gripes,  it seldom  fails of
 success.
           Another anodyne  medicine.
    When horses are affected  Avith colic, or where
 the use of anodynes are requisite, the following
 preparation  may be given: namely,  opium, 1 dr.
' or 60  grains; Castille  soap,  2 dr., and powdered
 aniseed, half an ounce or 4 dr.; to be made into a
 ball with syrup, for .me  dose.
    In speaking of the medicines for  gripes, or the
 flatulent colic, sometimes termed fret,  Mr White
 mentions, domestic remedies may  be employed
 when proper medicines cannot be procured  in time.
 For  this purpose a draught maybe readily made
 up of a  pint of strong peppermint water, with
 about 4 ounces of gin, and any kind of spice.
    Another.—A pint of port  Avine,  with spice or
 ginger.
    Another.—Half a pint of gin  diluted Avith 4 oz.
 of water and a litttle ginger.
    Another.—Take of Epsom  salts, 6 oz.; Castille
 soap, sliced, 2 oz.   Dissolve  them in 1$ pints of
I warm gruel; then add, tincture of opium, £ oz.;
| oil of juniper,  2 drachms.   Mix, and give them
I new-milk warm.
   This drink may be repeated  every four  or five
 hours, till the symptoms begin to abate.
          The same when on a journey.
    Take of tincture of opium, and oil of juniper,
 each 2 drachms; sweet  spirit  of nitre, tincture of
 benzoin, and aromatic spirit of ammonia, each $
 oz.  Mix them together in  a bottle for one drink,
 and give  it in a pint of warm gruel.
    For the colic, flatulency, and  colicky pains of
 the intestines, this drink will  be found a valuable 
272                            UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
•cordial,   it,may be repeated every two hours un-
til the symptoms abate.
  Another.—The  complaint may be removed by
warm beer and ginger, or a cordial ball,  mixed
with warm'beer.
  It is neuessaryto repeat the caution given re-
specting the  necessity of distinguishing the flatu-
lent, or  windy,  or spasmodic colic, from  the in-
flammatory one, and from that  which depends on
•costiveness.  It  is always necessary to empty the
bowels by means of clysters; and, should the horse
have  appeared dull and heavy previous to the at-
tack,  it will be advisable to  bleed,  if costiveness
attends it, give a laxative drench  after  the  parox-
ysm,  which will prevent its return.
       To cure surfeit or bad coat in horses.
  Take crocus metalforum,  or  liver of antimony,
1 oz.; sprinkle it with water, or mix it with moist
bran.  This  may be given to horses subject to this
disorder once a day, among  their oats; it relieves
the appetite,  destroys worms, sweetens the  blood
against all obstructions, opens the passages, and
improves tired and lean horses in a great degree;
it is also of great service in  coughs and shortness
of breath. It may be given daily from  2 to 4
weeks, and will soon  produce  a fine coat.  The
horse may be worked while he is taking the medi-
cine,  care being  taken not to expose him to wet or
cold.
             Urine ^aUrfor horses.
  Mix together, 1  uz,  of oil of juniper, 1  oz. of  |
balsam of sulphur, 2 oz. of Venice turpentine, 4 :
oz.  of sal prunella, 1 lb. of black rosin.          J
  Melt all together gently, over a slow fire, in an
iron pot, and  make up into balls of the size of a
nulnu'g.
  Another.—Take of  nitre, 3  lbs.  resin,  3 lbs.
soap,  1^ do.  juniper berries, 1 lb. oil of juniper,
l^oz
  To be made up into balls, of the common size,'
with spirits of turpentine.
         To cure diseases in horses' feet.
  Every person  may see, upon turning up the bot-
tom of a horse's foot, an angular projection point-
ing towards the toe, termed  the frog and its bars;
the remainder,  or hollow  part, being lechnically
termed ihe sole, though the entire bottom of the
foot might better receive this name.  It is certain,
however, that " the frog and sole" require pressure
—a congenial kind of pressure without concussion |
—that shall  cause the sensible, inside, or  quick- !
Bole,  to perform its functions of  absorbing the j
serous particles  secreted, or deposited therein, by |
the blood vessels.   If the frog and its bars are i
permitted to remain iu such a state as to reach the '
ground,  wherever  the sod  happens to be soft, or
yielding, the hollow part of the sole receives its |
due proportion of pressure laterally, and the whole I
sole,  or surface of the foot, is thereby kept  in !
health, or rather, free from canker.
                  Prevention.
  Eveiy veterinarian, of sense, will  perceive the
necessity of keeping the heels apart; yet, although ■
the immediate cause of their contracting is so uni-
versally known and  recognized,  the  injudicious
method (to call  it by no harsher name) of pearing I
away  the frog  and  sole, which prevents the bars '
from ever touching the ground, is still continued I
to an alarming extent.
   So much for  prevention.  When disease comes
on, which may be accelerated by two other species i
of  mismanagement, another course is usually fol-
lowed, not less  injudicious than the first mentioned
original cause of all the mischief,
   Horses' hoofs are of two distinct kinds or shane;
the one  being oval, hard, dark-coloured and thick,
the other round, palish, and thin  in the wall, or
crust of the hoof.. The first have a different kind
of frog from the latter;  this being broad, thick,
and  soft, whilst the oval hoof has a frog that is
long, acute,  and hard.  The rags,  which  hard-
work and  frequent shoeing occasion on the horny
hoof of the round foot, produce ragged frogs also,
both being thus pared away to make a fair bottom
to receive the shoe (owning hot!), 'he whole sup-
port, is so far reduced, and the sensible sole coming
much nearer the ground, becomes tender and lia-
ble to those painful concussions which  bring on
lameness—principally of the fore feet.  Contrac-
tion of those kir.ds of heels which belong to the-
cart-horse, and pommice-foot, are the consequence.
  The oval foot pertains to the  saddle-horse, the-
hunter, and bit of blood kind, whose bold project-.
ing frogs the farriers remove, and these being com-.
pelled  to perform long and painful journeys, ever
starting or going off with the same leading-leg,.
and continuing  the same throughout, lameness is.
contracted  in that foot, which none can account for,
nor  even find out whereabout it may  be seated.
Applications of "the oyls," (that egregious com-.
pound  of folly,  ignorance,  and brutality,)  follow
the  first appearance of lameness, and are  made
alike to the shoulder, the leg, and the sole, under
the various pretences of rheumatism, strain in, the
shoulder, and founder.   The real cause, however,.
is not Ihought of, much less removed; but, on the
contrary, the evil is usually augmented, by remove
ing  the slice, and drawing  the  sole to the quick
nearly, in search of supposititious corns, surbatings,.
he.—pretended remedies, that Avere never known
to cure, but which might llaA-e been all prevented
by the simplest precautions imaginable.   These
are—
  1st.  Let  the frog and sole acquire their iiaturj
thickness.-—
  2d. Lead off sometimes with one leg, sometimes
with the other.—
  3d. Stuff the holloAv of the hoofs (all  four of
them)  with cow-dung,  changing it  entirely once
a day.   In  every case,  it is advisable that  he be
worked moderately; for it is useless to talk to the
owners of horses, about giving the afflicted animal
an entire holiday at grass.
  Should the proprietor of the beast be  a sordid
customer, the farrier can expect no  fee for such
simple advice as is here given; so he nrust procure
a phialful  of water, and putting therein  a little
saltpetre, (nitrated kali of the  shops), and a little
colouring   matter,  to  be either  mixed  with the
stuffing, or to  wash the sole clean daily, though
the remedy will do as well (nearly) without such
addition.   A more efficacious  auxiliary will be
found  in procuring a patch of clay, to be kneaded
on the ground, on which the animal (which  is
worth  so  much trouble)  may be alloAved  to stand,
and if a small patch be  made for each foot, the
horse himself will prove their value (in most cases)
by feeling for them as it were, and showing by his
manner, Iioav gratified  he is at  the coldness they
afford  to his heated feet.  Herein it must be ob-
served, that stuffing Avith clay is not recommended;
this  being one of the numerous  blunders of those
farriers, who, having found the benefit of any ap-
plication or  remedy, push it to a ridiculous ex-
tremity
         Remedy for lameness in horses.
  Mr  Sewell, of the Veterinary College, stated
his having discovered a method of curing horses,
which are lame in the fore-feet.  It occurred  to
him, that  this lameness might originate  in the
nerves of  the foot, near the hoof; and  in  conse-
quence he  immediately amputated about an inch
of the diseased nerve, taking ihe usual  precaution
of guarding the arteries, aud passing  ligatures. 
FARRIERY.
273
kc.  By this means the animal was instantly re-
lieved from pain, and the lameness perfectly cured.
        To cure the thrush in horses' feet.
  Simmer over the fire, till it turns "brown, equal
parts of honey, vinegar, and verdigris, and apply
it with a feather or brush occasionally to the feet.
The horse at the same time should stand hard, and
all soft dung and straw be removed.
            Shoeing horses in winter.
  In Canada, where the winter is never of a  less.
duration than 5 months, they shoe their horses in
the following manner, which serves for the Avhole
winter:—The smith fixes a  small  piece of steel
on the fore part of each shoe,  not  tempered too
hard, which  turns up about a \ of an inch, in the
shape of a horse's  lancet; the same  to  the hinder
part of the shoe, turned up a little higher than the
fore-part, tempered in the same manner. In going
up a hill, the fore-part gives a purchase that assists
the horse, and in going down prevents him sliding
forwards.
To prevent  the feet  of horses from balling  with
                    snow.
  If the frog in the hoofs of horses and the fetlock
be cleaned, and well rubbed  with soft soap,  pre-
viously  to their going  out in snowy weather, it
will effectually prevent their falling, from what is
termed  hailing the snow.  A number of accidents
might be prevented by this simple precaution.
            Ointment for the mange.
  Take  of common  turpentine,  1  pound, quick-
silver, 4 ounces,  hog's lard, £ a pound, flour of
sulphur, 4 oz. train oil, £ a pint.
  Grind the silver with the turpentine, in a mar-
ble mortar, for five or six hours, until it completely
disappears: and add  a  little oil of turpentine  to
make it  rub  easier; then add the remainder, and
work them all well together till united.
  This ointment must be well rubbed on every part
affected, in the open air, if the sunshine  and the
weather be  warm; but if it be  winter, take the
horse to a blacksmith's shop, Avhere a large bar of
iron must be heated, and held at a proper distance
over him, to warm the ointment.
            Liniment for the mange.
   Take  of white precipitate, 2 ounces, strong
mercurial  ointment, 2 ounces, sulphur of vivum,
1 pound, flour of  sulphur,  £ a pound, rape oil, 2
quarts.
   First grind the  white precipitate in a  little oil;
afterwards add the remainder, taking care that they
are weir mixed.
   This  liniment  must be  well  rubbed in with a
hard brush, in the open air, provided the day be
fine, and the weather warm.  If the horse draws
in  a *-eam, the inside of the collar must be washed,
or the inside of the  saddle,  if a  saddle-horse, for
tlie disease is highly contagious.
                  Eye-water.
   Take of camphor, 2 drachms, dissolved  in 3
 ounces of rectified spirit of wine,  Goulard's ex-
 tract, 1  oz. rose water, 1  quart.
   Shake all together in a bottle for use.
   Let the eye and the eye.lids be well bathed  three
 or four times a day, with a clean linen rag dipped
 in the eye-water.
          For inflammation of the lungs.
   Take of white  antimonial powder, 2 drachms,
 prepared kali, ^ an ounce, nitre, £ an ounce, Cas-
 tille soap, 2 drachms, aromatic confection, \ an
 ounce.
   Beat them into a ball.
   This  ball must  be given to the horse as soon  as
 it can be prepared, after he has been bled; and con-
 tinue it two or three times a day as long as tne in-
 flammation continues;—about six hours after, give
 him a purging drink, and repeat it every night and
         2 K
morning until a passage is obtained, or the bowels
are sufficiently opened.
           Embrocation for sprains.
  Take of soap liniment  and camphorated spirit
of Avine, of each, 8 ounces, oil of turpentine, half
an ounce.
  Mix and shake wher used.
  This evaporating and discutient  embrocation is
well calculated  to remove pain and inflammation,
which is generally effected in the course of a fort-
night or three Aveeks;  during that  time  the horse
s.,ould not be  alloAved to go out of the stable or
farm-yard.
         Bracing mixture for sprains.
  After the  above  embrocation,  the  following
bracing mixture must be rubbed on the  part once
a day.
  Take of Egyptiacum, 2 oz. oil of turpentine,
1 oz.
  Shake well together; then add camphorated spirit
of wine, and compound tincture of benzoin, each
i oz. vinegar, 11 oz.
  Mix, and shake well together every time they
are used.
             Paste to  stop bleeding.
  Take of fresh nettles, 1 handful, bruise them in
a mortar;  add blue vitriol, in powder, 4 oz. wheat-
en  flour, 2 oz.  wine vinegar, \ oz. oil of vitriol,
\ oz.
  Beat them all together into a paste.
  Let the wound be filled  up with  this paste, and
a proper pledget of tow laid over the mouth, in
order to prevent it from falling out, and then ban-
dage it on with a strong roller.   This dressing
must remain in the wound 10 or 12 hours.
          Ointment for scratched  heels.
  Take of hog's lard, 1 pound, white lead, 4 oz.
alum, in fine  powder,  2 oz. white vitriol, 1 oz. su-
gar of lead, ^ oz.  olive oil, 3 oz.
   Grind all the powders in a marble mortar with
the oil, or on a marble slab; then add the lard, and
work the whole together till united.
   This is a neat composition,  and very proper to
keep in the stable during the winter; it will not only
be found useful for greasy and scratched heels, but
also for stubs and treads of every  description.   A
small quantity must be rubbed on the part affected
every night and morning,  in  slight cases; but in
treads, or wounds upon the heels, it will 0e best
to  spread the ointment on pledgets of tow, and se-
cure them with bandages.
            Ointment for greasy heels.
   Take of white ointment, 1 pound, white vitriol,
blue vitriol,  and sugar of lead,  in powder, each,
$oz.
   Mix well together.
   This ointment, Avhen  used, must be spread on
 strong brown paper, and applied over the part that
 greases, and bandaged on with listing.  He may,
 after dressing,  be turned  into a  dry straw-yard,
 and a feAV diuretic balls given  to him, one may be
 given every third day.  Once  dressing is in gene-
 ral sufficient to perform a cure; if not, it may be
 repeated in a week after.
 Astringent embrocation  for  strains  in different
                     parts.
   Take of camphor, 2 drachms, dissolved in half
 an ounce of  strong rectified spirit of wine, nitre,
 I  oz. dissolved in half  a  pint of wine  vinegar,
 spirits of turpentine, 4 ounces, white lead, or bole
 armenic, in'powder, half an ounce,  aqua fortis, 1 oz.
    Mix, and  shake them all together in a bottle for
 use.
        Mixture for  canker in the mouth.
    Pake of wine vinegar, half a pint,  burnt alum,
 and common salt, each, one ounce, bole armenic
 half an ounce. 
274
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
  Mix, and shake them together in a bottle for use.
  It Avill be  proper to dress the horse's mouth with
this mixture,  every morning and evening, in the
following manner: Take a small cane, or a piece
of whalebone, half a yard long,  and tie a linen
rag, or a little tow, round one end; then dip it in-
to  the mixture, and  pass it up his mouth, and
gently remove it to all the affected parts: let him
champ it well  about in his mouth; after which .'at
him fast an hour, then give meat as usual.
              Purging ball for do«s.
   Take of jalap, in powder", 1 scruple,  Barbadoes
 aloes, 1 drachm, ginger, in powder, 10 grains, con-
 serve of hips, or syrup, enough to form a ball.
             Ointment for the mange.
   Take of quicksilver, 3 oz. balsam of sulphur,
 2 oz.  oil of turpentine, 3 oz. soft  soap, 1 pound,
 Cape aloes,  in powder, ^ oz.
   Rub the quicksilA'er with the*balsam of sulphur,
 in a marble  mortar, for three or four hours, or un-
 til the globules completely  disappear;  and while
 rubbing keep gradually add-ug the oil of turpen-
 tine; having done this, you may then mix the whole
 well  together for use.   It must  be well rubbed in
 on the affected parts, every third day, for three or
 four times.
            Liniment for the mange.
   Take of flour of sulphur, 4 oz. sulphur of vi-*
 vum, 4 oz.  white  precipitate, 1 oz.  strong mer-
 curial ointment, 1 oz. Cape aloes, in powder, ^ oz.
 neat's-foot-oil, 1^ pint.
   First rub the  powders together in a mortar; then
 put in the  ointment, and gradually add the oil; it
 must be stirred when  used.  The affected parts
 must be well anointed ;vith  this liniment, every
 third day,  for three or four times.
     Mercurial  liniments for the red mange.
   Take of mild mercurial ointment, 4  oz. oil of
 turpentine, 3 oz. Cape aloes, in powder, -J oz.
   Mix well  together, and anoint the parts every
 third day for three or four times.  Many  sports-
 men  have  their dogs  regularly  dressed with  this
 liniment two or three Aveeks before  the hunting
 season commences; it is supposed to improve their
 scent, and make them more fit for the chase.
         Mild ointments for the mange.
   Take of oil of vitriol,  half an ounce, hogs' lard,
 8 ounces.  Mix, and anoint  the dog every day for
 three or four times, or oftener if required.
   This ointment is used in surfeit, and slight cases
 of mange.
              Lotion for the mange.
   Take of white hellebore  root,  bruised, 2  oz.
 water, 3 pints, boil down to 2 pints and strain,  sal
 ammoniac, 2 drs. sublimate, 1 dr. Cape aloes, half
 an oz.
   Dissolve the sal ammoniac, and other ingredi-
 ents, in the decoction.
   This lotion is sometimes used to cure the mange,
 when greasy  applications are  objected  to.
              Distemper in dogs.
   The following prescriptions are each about a dose
 for a  full-grown  pointer.  They must, of course,
 be increased  or diminished in proportion to  the
 size and strength of the dog.
   Take of opium,  3 grains,  emetic tartar (an  in-
 valuable medicine), 5 grains.  To be given at night.
   Repeat the dose every third night, till the dog
 is recovered; taking care to keep him in a warm
 place, and always fed with a warm liquid diet, such
as bro.tb, gruel, &c.
   If the nostrils should discharge, have them wash-
ed, or syringed, twice a day, with a lotion of alum,
or sugar of lead; putting about  half an  ounce of
either lo a pint of water.                       li
       Another.—For a half grown pointer.
   Take of jalap  powder, 25  grains, cafomel, 5
 grains.   Made into a pill with a litlle gum water.
            Far a full grown pointer.
   Take of jalap powder, 30 grs. calomel, 8 grs.
, Mixed as above.
   One of these doses, mixed  with butter, or in a
 small piece of meat, should  be given to the dog
 every morning, on an empty stomach.  The food
 should be ligh% and easy to digest; and the lotion,
 if required,  for the  nostrils,  should be observed
 here, as before mentioned.
             Distemper among cattle.
   Examine your cow's mouth, though she appears
 very Avell; and if you find any pimple in it, or on
 the tongue, or if you perceive any within the skin
 ready to come out,  immediately house her, keep
 her warm,  and  give her warm tar-water.  To a
 large beast give a  gallon;  to a  small  one three
 quarts.   Give it four times every uay;  but  not
 every time the quantity you first gave.  Lessen the
 dose by degrees;  but never  give less than two
 quarts to a large beast, nor less than three pints to
 a small one; and house her every night  for some
 time, and give her warm gruel and malt mash.
          To make tar-water for  cows.
   Take one quart of. tar, put to it 4 quarts  of wa-
 ter, and stir it very well ten or twelve minutes; lei
 it stand a little while, and then pour it off for use
 You must not put water to the same tar more than
 twice.   Let the first dose be made  of fresh tar.
 Continue to give it till the beast  is well.   Don't
 let her go too soon abroad.        ,
             For the garget  in cows.
   This disorder is very frequent in cows after ceas-
 ing to be milked; it affects the glands of the udder
 with hard swellings, and often arises from the ani-
 mal not being clean milked.  It may be removed
 by anointing the part three times a day with a lit-
 tle ointment composed of camphor and blue oint-
 ment.   Half a drachm  or more  of calomel  may
 be given in warm beer,  from a horn or bottle, for
 three or four mornings, if the disorder is violent.
          'To cure the redwater in cattle.
  Take 1 oz. of bole armoniac, half an ounce of"
 dragon's blood,  2 ounces of Castille soap,  and 1
 drachm of roche alum.   Dissolve these in a quart
 of hot ale, or beer, and let it stand until it is blood
 warm; give this  as one dose, and if it should have
 the desired effect, give the same  quantity in about
 12 hours after.  This is an excellent medicine for
 changing the water, and acts as a purgative; every
 farmer that keeps any number of cattle, should al-
 ways have doses  of it by him.
         Ta cure the scouring in cattle.
  The following composition  has been found  to
 succeed in many cases which were apparently draw-
 ing to a fatal termination.
  Take of powdered rhubarb, 2 drachms,  castor
 oil, 1 ounce, kali, prepared,  1 tea-spoonful.
  Mix well together in  a pint of warm milk.  If
the first dose does not answer, repeat it in 36 or
48 hours,   IF the calf will suck, it will be proper
to allow him to do it.
    Cure for cattle swelled with green food.
  When any of your cattle happen to get swelled
with an over feed of  clover,  frosty turnips, or such
like, instead of the usual method of stabhing in the
side, apply a dose of train oil, which, after repeat-
ed trials, has been found to prove successful.  The
quantity of oil must vary according to tlie  age or
 size of the animal.   For a grown-up beast,  of aa
ordinary size, the quantity recommended is about
an English pint, wtiich  must  be  administered ta
the animal with a bottle, taking care, at tlie same 
FARRIERY.
275
time, to rub the stomach well, in order to make it
go down.   After receiving this medicine, it must
be made to walk about until such time as the swell-
ing begins to subside.
         Treatment of cattle and fowls.
  The experiment has often been tried of the bene-
fit derived to horses  from being well combed and
kept clean: it has been found that a horse neglect-
ed as to cleanliness,  will not be so well condition-
ed, either for fatness or strength, though he  gets
abundance  of corn;  at least, it is certain  that it
would be worth trying.   This every body knows,
that the most neglected  of the horse race are kept
cleaner than the cleanest of the horned cattle, par-
ticularly those shut up in houses.
  " I have tAvo hints to give," says a contempo-
rary  Avriter,  " as the  expense can  be  nothing,
and  the advantage  may be great, I read  in a De-
scription of Norway, that when the cows drink at
the hot-springs,  they give more milk than those
that drink cold water.   Cows drink  so much at a
time, that  there  is  no  doubt, when the water is
nearly at freezing, they must feel  sensibly  cooled
all over, which will  naturally affect their produce
of milk.   I would therefore propose  the experi
ment of warming the water,  for milch  cows,  in
cold weather."
  The next proposal is, that the corn given to fowls
should be crushed, and soaked in water; thishe.ps
the digestion, and hens  will lay in winter when so
fed, that Avould not otherwise.
  In a time of  scarcity, and when the food  of man
is dear,  such experiments as proposed  are  well
worth making:  and the  practice  proposed  Avith
the fowls ought to  become  general, as it costs
nothing.
                    ——■■—■•         «
          To cure the measles in swine.
  It sometimes happens, though seldom, that swine
Inve the measles; while they are in this state, their
flesh  is very unwholesome food.  This disorder is
not ■ easily  discovered while the animal  is alive,
and can  only be known by its not thriving or fat-
tening as the others.  After the animal is killed
and cut  up, its fat is full of little kernels, about
the  size of the roe or eggs of a salmon.  When
this is the case, put  into the food of cch hog, once
or twice a Aveek, as much crude pounded 'antimo-
ny as will  lie on a shilling.   This is very  proper
for any feeding  swine, even though  the^ have  no
disorder.   A small quantity of the flour of brim-
stone, also, may be given among their food when
they are  not  thriving, which will be found of great
service to them.  But the best method of prevent-
ing disorders in swine, is to keep  their sties  per-
fectly clean and dry, and to allow them air, exer-
cise,  and plenty of clean straw.
                Rupture in swine.
   Where a number of swine are bred, it will fre-
quently happen that some of the pigs will  have
what is called a ' rupture;' i. e. a hole broken  in
the rim of the belly, where part of the guts comes
out and lodges betwixt the rim of the belly and the
skin, having an appearance similar to a swelling in
the testicles.  The  male pigs are more liable to
this disorder than the females.  It is cured by the
following means:
   Geld the pig affected, and cause it to be held  up
Avith  its head downwards; flay back the skin from
the swollen place, and from the situation in which
the pig is held,  ihe guts will  naturally  return to
their proper place.  SeAV up the hole with a  needle,
which must  have a square point,  and also a  bend
in  it, as  the disease often happens between the
hinder legs, where a straight needle cannot  be
used.  After this is done, replace  the  skin that
was flayed back, and sew it up, when tlie  opera-
tion is finished.  The pig should not have much
food for a few days after the operation, until the
wound begins to heal.
            For the foot-rot in sheep.
  T. ake a piece of alum, a piece of green vitriol,
and some white mercury—the alum must be in the
largest proportion; dissolve them in Avater,  and
after the hoof is pared,  anoint it with a feather,
and bind on a rag over all the foot.
  Another.—Pound some green vitriol fine,  and
apply a little of it to the part of the foot affected,
binding a rag over the foot as above.  Let the
sheep be kept in the house a few hours after this
is done,  and then turn them out to a dry pasture.
This is the most common way of curing the foot-
rot in Middlesex.
  Another.—Others anoint the part with a feather
dipt in  aqua fortis, or weak nitrous  acid, which
dries i; at once.  Many drovers that take sheep to
Smithfield, carry a little  bottle of this about with
them, which, by applying to the  foot with a fea-
ther, helps a lame  sheep by hardening its hoof, and
enabling it to travel better.  Some may think aqua
fortis is of too hot  a nature, but such a desperate
disorder requires an active cure, which, no doubt,
is ever to be used cautiously.
  Another.—Spread some slacked quick lime over
a house  floor pretty thick, pare  the sheep's feet
well,  and turn them into this'house, where they
may remain for a few hours, after which turn them
into a dry pasture.  This  treatment  may be  re-
peated tAvo or three  times,  always  observing  to
keep  the house clean,  and adding a little more
quick lime before putting them in.
  The foot must be often  dressed, and the sheep
kept as much as possible upon  dry land.  Those
animals that are diseased should be kept separate
from the flock, as the  disorder is very infectious.
  Prevention and cure of the foot-rot in sheep.
  On  suspected grounds, constant and careful ex-
amination ought to take place;  and when  any fis-
sures  or cracks, attended  with heat, make  their
appearance, apply oil  of turpentine and common
brandy.  This, in  general, produces a very bene-
ficial effect, but where  the disease has been lone
seated, and  becomes, in a manner, confirmed—af-
ter cleaning the foot, and paring away the infected
parts, recourse is  had to caustics, of which, the
best seem to be sulphuric acid, and the  nitrate of
mercury.  After this, pledgets are  applied, the
foot bound up, and the animal kept in a clean, dry
situation, until its recovery is effected.
  But it often  happens,  where the malady is in-
veterate, that the disease refuses to yield  to any,
or all of the above prescriptions.
  The following mode of treatment, however,  if
carefully attended to,  may  be depended upon  as a
certain cure.  Whenever the disease makes its ap-
pearance, let the foot  be carefully examined, and
the diseased part well washed, and pared  as nigh
as possible, not to  make it bleed; and let the floor
of the house, where  the  sheep are  confined, be
strewn three or four inches thick with quick lime
hot from the kiln; and the sheep, after having their
feet dressed in  the  manner above described,  to
stand in  it during the space of 6 or 7  hours.
  In all cases, it is of great importance, that the
animal be afterwards .exposed Qiily to a moderate
temperatur"—be invigorated with proper food—
and kept in clean, easy, dry pasture; and the dis-
ease will be effectually remedied in the course of
a few days.                 •
To prevent sheep from  catching  cold after being
                    shorn.
  Sheep are sometimes exposed to cold winds and
rains immediately  after shearing, which exposure
frequently hurts them.  Those farmers who have 
276                           UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
access to the sea, shiuld  plunge them  into the
salt water, those  who have not that opportunity,
and whose flocks are not very large, may mix salt
with water and rub them all over, whioh  will in a
great measure prevent any mishap befalling the
animal, after having been stript of its coat.
  It is  very common  in the months of June and
July, for some kinds of sheep, especially the fine
Leicester breed, which are  commonly thin skinned
about the head, to be struck with a kind of fly,
and by scratching the place with their feet, they
make it  sore and raw.   To prevent this,  take tar,
train oil, and salt, boil them together, and Avhen
cold, put a little of it on the  part affeoted.  This
application keeps off the flies, and likewise heals
the sore.  The salt should be in very  small quan-
tity, or powdered sulphur may be used instead of
it.
           To ewe the scab in  sheep.
  Take 1 pound of quicksilver, ^ a pound of Ve-
nice turpentine, 2 pounds  of hog's lard, and ^ a
pound of oil, or spirits of turpentine.   A greater
or less quantity than the above may be mixed up,
in the same proportion, according to the number
of sheep affected.  Put the quicksilver and Venice
turpentine into a mortar, or small pan, which beat
together  until not a particle of the quicksilver can
be discerned: put  in the  oil, or spirits of turpen-
tine,  with  the hog's  lard, and Avork them well
together  until made into an ointment.  The parts
of the sheep affected must be rubbed with a piece
of this salve, about the  size  of a  nut, or rather
less.  When the whol * flock  is  affected, the shep-
herd must be careful in noticing those that show
any symptoms of the disorder,  by looking back,
and offering to  bite or scratch  the spot; and if
affected,  he must immediately apply the ointment,
as il is only by paying early and particular attention
that a flock can be cured.
              To prevent the scab.
  Separating the wool, lay the  before-mentioned
ointment iu a strip, from the neck doAvn the  back
to the rump;  another  strip  down each shoulder,
and one down each hip; it may not be unnecessary
to put one along each side.   Put very little of the
ointment on, as too much of it  may  be attended
Avith danger.
          To destroy maggots in sheep.
  Mix with  one quart  of spring water,  a table
spoonful  of the spirits of turpentine, and  as much
of the sublimate powder as  will  lie upon a shilling.
Shake them well together, and cork it up  in a bot-
tle, Avith a quill through  the  cork, so  that the
liquid may come out of the bottle in small quan-
tities  at  once.   The  bottle must always be well
shaken when  it is to be used,   When the spot is
observed where the maggots are, do not disturb
them, but pour a little of the mixture upon the
spot, as much as Avill wet the wool and the magi
gots.  In a few minutes after the liquor is applied
the maggots will all creep to the top of the wqo},
and in a short  time  drop off dead.   The sheep
must, however, be inspected  next day, and if any
of the maggots remaiu undestroyed, shake them
off, or touch them with a little more of the mixture.
  A litlle train oil may be applied after the mag-r
gots are removed, as sometimes the skin  will be
hard by applying too much of the liquid.  Besides,
the fly is not  so apt to  strike  when it finds tfie
smell of the oil,  which may  prevent a second
attack.
  This method of destroying maggots is  superior
to any other, and it prevents the  an.inu-l from being
disfigured by clipping off the  wool,  which is a
common practice in some countries.
           Cure for the scab in slieep.
  The simplest  and most  efficacious  remedy lor
 this disease, was oominunicated to the Society fot
 the encouragement of arts, he.  by  the late  Sir
 Joseph Banks; and is as follows:
   Take 1 lb. of  quicksilver,  $ a lb of  Venice
 turpentine, ^ a pint of oil of turpentine, 4 lbs. of
| hog's lard.
   Let them be rubbed in a mortar till the quick-
 silver is thoroughly incorporated with the other
 ingredients.  For the proper mode of doing which,
 it may be right to take the advioe or even the  as-
 sistance of some apothecary, or other person used
 to make such mixtures.
   The method of using  the ointment is this:  Be-
 ginning at the head of the sheep, and proceeding
 from between the ears, along the back, to the end
 of the tail; the wool is to be divided in a furrow,
 till the skin can be touched, and as the  furrow is
 made, the finger,  slightly dipped in the ointment,
 is to be drawn  along the bottom of it, where it
 will leave a blue stain on the skin and  adjoining
 wool.
   From this furrow, similar ones must  be drawn
 down the shoulders and thighs to the legs, as far
 as they are woolly; and if the animal is much  in-
 fected, two mire should be drawn  along each side,
 parallel to  lhat on the back, and one down each
 side, between the fore and hind legs.
   Immediately after being dressed, it is usual to
 tui i the slieep among other stock,  without any fear
 of the infection being  communicated; and there is
 scaroely an instance ofa sheep suffering any injury
 from the application.  In a few days the blotches
 dry up,  the itching ceases, and the animal is com-
 pletely cured.  It is generally, however, thought
 proper not to delay the operation beyond Michael-
 mas.
   The  hippobosca ovina, called  in Lincolnshire
 Sheep-fagg, an animal well known to all shepherds
 which lives among the wool, and is hurtful to the
 thriving of sheep, both by the  pain its bile occa-
 sions, and the blood it sucks, is destroyed  by this
 application,  and  the wool  is not at all injured.
 Our wool-buyers  purchase the  fleeces  on  which
 the stain of the ointment is visible, rather in pre-
 ference to others,  from an opinion, that the use of
 it having preserved  the  animal from being vexed,
 either with tl e scab or faggs, the wool is less lia-
 ble to the defects  of joints or knots; a fault observ-
 ed to proceed from every sudden stop in the thriv-
 ing of the animal, either from want, of food, or
 from disease.
      To cure the water m the heads of sheep.
   Of all the various operations  by which this dis-
 temper may be eradicated, I must, from experience,
 give  the preference to  one which will, perhaps,
 astonish such of your  readers as form their opini-
 ons more from theory than practice.  A number
 Of medical men haA'e already controverted the fact*
 and,  wilh the utmost  presumption, disputed my
 veracity to my face, after 1 had witnessed its effi-
 cacy  in  a thousand instances.  It  is no other thai*
 that of putting a  sharpened wire up the  nostril
 quite through the middle of the brain, and by that
 means perforating the  bag which contains the fluid
 causing  the disease. This is, of all other methods,.
 the  most certain  to succeed: but it has this un-
 pleasant appendage annexed to it, if it do not cure,
 it is certain to kill.
   This method, of cure is uot only the most expe-
 dient, but it is in every shepherd's power, and one
 which he can scarcely perform amiss, if  he attend.
 to the following plain directions.
   The operation must be performed,  with  a stiff
 steel wire, such as is used for knitting tlie coarsest
 stockings.  It must be kept clean,  and free of rust,
 oiled, and sharpened at  the point.  Care must be-
 taken, however, that its point  be only one-eighth 
FARRIERY.
c»>n
of an inch in length, for if it is tapered like a
needle, it is apt to take a wrong direction in going
up the nostrils, fix in the gristle below fhj brain,
and torment the animal to no purpose.   If blunt
m the point, it ofen foils to  penetrate the bladder,
which is of considerable toughness, shoving it only
a little to one side; the safest way, of course, is to
have the  point of the wire sharp and short.
  The shepherd must first feel  Avith his thumbs
for the  soft part in the skull, which invariably
maiKs the seat of his disease.  If that is near  the j
middle of the head above, where, in two cases  out j
of three at least, it is sure to be, let him then fix
the animal firm betwixt his  knees, hold the head j
with one hand, laying his thumb  upon the soft or .
diseased  part, aid with the other hand insert  the
wire by the nostril,  most on a parallel  with  the j
seat of the distemper, aiming directly at the point j
where his thumb is placed.   The operation is per-
formed in one second, for if he feels the point of
the wire come in contact with his thumb, let him
instantly  set the animal to its  feet; and if the j
weather is at all cold, let it stand in the house over- I
night.                                          |
  If the disease is seated exactly in that part where !
the divisions of the skull meet, and  consequently
in a right line with the top of the nose, he must
probe both nostrils; when, should he miss the bulb
on  the  one side, he  Avill be sure to hit it on the
other.   If the seat of the disease cannot at all be
found, and if the animal have all  the symptoms of
the malady, the water is then enclosed among the
ventricles in the middle of the brain, and  must be
treated as above.  Nothing can be done in the last
case,  save with the  wire; but it is  hard to cure
them when so affected.   I have found, on  dissec-
tion, the fluid contained  in many little cells in the
centre of the brain; and though the.wire had pene-
trated some of those cells, it had missed others.
   By this simple operation alone, 1 have cured
huiMreds; and though I never kept an exact regis-
ter, I think 1 have not known it to fail above once
in four times at  an average, in  all  the instances
Avhich have  come under my observation; and some
of  these I knew to he  injudiciously performed,
the disease not being seated in a point  which the
wire could reach.  I have at times cured a dozen,
and ten,  in regular succession, without failing once,
and I have  again, in some  cold  seasons  of  the
year, killed three or four successively.
   Sir George M'Kenzie  has insinuated, inhisbook
on sheep, that I was the inventor of this mode of
cure—but it is by no mea/is the case.  The prac-
tice, I understand,  has been in use among shep-
herds for ages past; but they were  often obliged
to perform it privately, their masters, like the pro-
fessors about Edinburgh, always arguing, that the
piercing of the brain must necessarily prove fatal.
Sir George  has, however,  misunderstood my ac-
count in this matter  in  the  Higland  Society's
 Transactions;  I  did not mean to insinuate tti~t it
was with pleasure I discovered  the art of curing
them in this way, but  only my success in that art.
I mentioned in these Transactions, that when I was
a shepherd  boy, for a number of years I probed
the skull of every sturdied sheep that I could lay my
hands on, without any regard to whom they belong-
ed, and  likewise took  every opportunity of visiting
my patients as often as possible;  and as the coun-
try around  me  swarmed Avith them every spring
and summer, my practice, of course, was of pro-
digious  extent.   It was several years before 1 was
sensible of failing in one instance, which, howev-
er, it was often impossible to ascertain, they hay-
ing left  the spot sometimes, before I could again
go that way:  but many  a valuable  young  sheep I
cured to different  owners, without ever  acknow-
ledging it, having no authority to try such experi-
ments.
  The following  symptoms, after the operation,
may be depended rn.  If the animal becomes con-
siderably sick, it is a good sign that it will  reco-
ver.   If it  continues to grow sicker, and abstains
from feeding for the  space of two days, it is likely
to die; and, if in a condition to be fit for family
use, ought to be killed  forthwith.   The flesh of
the animal is nothing the worse for this disease; on
the contrary, it is universally supposed by the
country people, that their flesh is sweeter,  more
delicate and palatable, tl in any other.   This, I
suppose, must be owing to their tender age, it  being
unusual to  kill any sheep so young, save lambs.
  The first symptom of  recovery is their bleating.
If once they begin to bleat occasionally, they are
sure to recover, however stupid they may appear at
that time.  It  seems that they are  then  becoming
sensible of the want of society, the only thing which
causes sheep to bleat, and which,  for a  long time
previous to that, they had totally disregarded.
  I must mention here, that the  most  successful
curer of this distemper I ever knew, performed the
operation in a different manner from the one prac-
tised  by me, and above recommended.   Instead  of
a wire, he curried  always a large  corking-pin  in
his bonnet;  and,  like me,  tapped every sturdied
sheep he found, but always above, putting the point
of the pin through the skull  at the place where it
was most soft, in the same manner as the trocar is
used.  As this does not at all endanger the sheep's
life, I frequently tried this plan previous to that of
probing with the Avire; but, as far as I can recollect,
I never cured one by that means.   I remember of
once  conversing with him on the subject, when  he
told  me that he seldom or  neA-er  failed of curing.
them upon their own farms;  but that, in sundry
neighbouring  farms, he rarely cured any.   From
this,  it would  appear that, on different  soils, the
animals are differently affected.   I am  noAv con-
vinced that he must generally have inserted the
pin so far as to penetrate the  bottom of the sac,
which I never had the  sense to try, and which, if
we reason from analogy, must- prove as effective,
and less hazardous than the other: for,  it appears
to me that, in  order to ensure a recovery, it is ne-
cessary that the bottom, or lowest part of the sac, be
penetrated.
   Undoubtedly, the best mode of curing this dis-
ease  would be to extract the sac, and all  that it
contains, entirely. There is little doubt that, if this
were performed  by gentle and skilful  hands, it
would prove the most effectual cure; but as it is, I
can attest that it  seldom proves successful.  The
shepherds  have not skill and ingenuity sufficient to
close the skull properly up again, or sort it in such
a manner as ts requisite to defend it from external
injury; of course, I  would  rather  recommend the
mode in  which they cannot easily go wrong, and
which I have seen prove most beneficial, when per-
formed by men of like acquirements of themselves.
—Farmer's Magazine.
 To prevent the '' sturdy," or water in the heads of
                     sheep.
   Wilh regard to the causes inducing water in the
head of sheep, there is but one opinion entertained
among shepherds, which is, that it  is occasioned by
a chilliness in the back of the animal, on account
of its being exposed to the winds, and the  sleety
showers of winter.  These cause it to acquire a
kind  f numbness and torpidity, Avhich,  if often re-
peated, are apt to terminate in an affection to gid-
diness, and finally in a water in the head.
   That the disease is occasioned  solely by a chil-
liness iu  the. back, appears,from.  the.  followiug, 
278
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
   1. It is always most general after a  windy and
 sleety winter.
   2. It is always most  destructive  on  farms that
 are  ill-sheltered, and on  which the sheep are most
 exposed to those blasts and showers.
   3. It preys only on sheep rising their  first year,
 the  wool of whom separates above, leaving the back
 quite exposed to the wet and to the cold.
   4. If a piece of cloth or  hide is sewed to the
 wool, so as to cover the back, such a sheep will not
 be affected with the disease.   The experiment is a
 safe, a cheap, and an easy one; and, exclusive of
 its good effects in preventing the fatal disease un-
 der  consideration, it is  the  most beneficial to  a
 young sheep that is not over high in  condition,
 and  administers the most to its comfort during the
 winter, of -iny other that I know. It keeps the wool
 from opening, and the sheep always  dry  and warm
 in the back;  which, exposed to cold, either" in man
 or beast, it is well known, affects the vitals  mate-
 rially.  When thus shielded, the young sheep will
 feed straight in the wind on the worst days, with-
 out injury, and, indeed,  without  much  regarding
 the weather.   This covering  keeps them from the
 rain, prevents them from being shelled and  loaded
 with frozen snow, and from  destruction by cold,
 by leanness, and the water in  the head.   The ex-
 pense attending it  is  so trifling, that it is scarcely
 worth mentioning.  One pair of old blankets of
 the  value of  four or five shillings, will furnish
 coats for forty sheep; and if  these  are  carefully
 taken off on the return of spring, and laid aside,
 they will serve the same  purpose for two or three
 successive years.
       Practice of the Spanish shepherds.
  The first care of the shepherd on coming to the
 spot  Ayhere his sheep are  to spend the summer, is
to give to his ewes as much salt as they will eat.
 For this purpose he is provided with 25 quintals of
 salt  for every thousand head, which is  consumed
in less than five months, but they eat none on their
 journey, or in winter.  The method of giving it to
them is as follows:—The shepherd places fifty or
sixty flat stones about five steps distance from each
other; he  strews salt upon each  stone, then leads
his flock  slowly through the stones, and every
sheep eats at pleasure.  This  is frequently repeat-
ed, observing not to  let them eat on those days in
any spot  ivhere  there is limestone.  When they
have  eaten the salt, they  are led to some argilla-
ceous spots,  where,  from the craving they have
acquired, they devour every thing they meet with,
and return again to the salt with redoubled ardour.
  Cure of dropsy in the crops of young turkeys.
  This kind of dropsy is announced by a dull look,
paleness of the head, loss of  appetite, and  aver-
sion  to  food.  The birds allow themselves to be
approached and  seized with facility, and they are
Avithout strength.  Very  soon  a slight swelling of
 the  crop is added to these symptoms,  which, in
 ten days, becomes very considerable.  I haA'e takeu
 nearly a pint of water from one. By pressing upon
 the crops  of  some of them, a certain quantity of
 matter is discharged by the bill, but  never enough
 entirely to ease the crop.   All these symptoms in-
 crease,  and the bird dies at  the end of 15 or 18
 days' illness.
   1 sought after the cause of  this disorder, and it
 was  easy to find that it was occasioned by the stag-
 nant wate,r of which these animals had drunk; in
 ihe course of the year the heat had been  great, and
 there was little rain.   The heat had hatched .-i vast
 swarm of  small red worms, resembling ascarides.
 It is quite certain that these insects must  have been
 swalloived by the turkeys, and  from this cause, and
 the bad quality of the water which they had drunk,
 a great degree of inflammation in the crop would
 ensue, with a stoppage  of the passage which con-
 ducts to the gizzard.  I divided the turkeys into
 two cla.ses; for those who were still sound I or-
 dered grain and good water; with ad that were dis-
 eased I practised the operation of tapping with a
 lancet, in the lowest part of the crop.   1 injected
 at  the opening,  by means of a small syringe,  a
 slight decoction of Jesuit's bark, mixed with a lit-
 tle brandy; which was repeated twice in the course
 of  the day. * Next day the wound  was  better
 marked.  I made  again the same injection, and,
 two hours after, 1 forced them to eat a little of the
 yolk  of an egg, mixed with some crumbs of bread.
 At the end of three days, the Avound  in the crop
 was closed, Avhich  I  might  have  prevented, but
 finding a natural  opening in the bill, I  made them
 take, during  eight  days, in their drink the same
 substance which had been injected; and they were,
 by  degrees, put on  their usual  diet.   I  need not
 add, that clear water was given them instead of
 that of the standing pools.  Ten of these animals
 had died before my arrival; two perished  during
 the treatment, and the rest of the flock, which
 might be about  forty, eitl.er escaped  the disease
 or  Avere cured.—M. Ligneau.
    To cure colds of every description in cattle.
  The first attempt should be to remove the cause,
 by  giving to  the animal a  warm cordial drink;
 which, acting as a stimulant on the stomach and
 intestines, will give fresh motion  to these parts,
 and enable nature to resume her former course.
  Take of aniseeds, caraway seeds, grains of para-
 dise, and  fenugreek, each 2 oz. in  powder.   Mix
 them together for one drink.
  Another.—Take of sweet fennel-seeds,  and cum-
 min-seeds, each 2 oz. in powler, long pepper, tur-
 meric, ginger, and Enula Campana (elecampane),
 each 1 ounce,  in powder.  Mix for one drink.
  The method'of giving either of these  drinks is
 as  follows:—Take  one  and put it into  a pitcher
 with 2 oz. of fresh butter, and 2 table-spoonsful of
 treacle or coarse sugar; then pour one  quart of
 boiling ale upon the whole; cover  them  down till
 neAv-milk warm, and then give the drink to the beast.
  In two hours after giving the  drink,  let the ani-
 mal have a good mash made of scalded  bran, or
 ground malt, with a handful or two of ground oats
 or barley meal added to :t,  and warm water that
 day.  In slight colds during the  summer, these
 drinks may be given to cattle while in their pas-
 ture:  and, where  it can be made  convenient, let
 them  fast two  hours after, and then graze as usual.
 It is also necessary  to examine  the  sick animals
 every day, to  watch them while  they both dung
and stale, and  to see w hether the body be of a pro-
 per heat, and the  nose or  muzzel of a natural
 breeze.
  If these be regular, there is not much danger.
If,  however, feverish symptoms  should appear,
(which frequently happen),  the animal will be-
come  costive.  In such  cases give one of the fol-
lowing:
               Purging drink.
  Take of Glauber  salts, I lb. ginger, in powder,
2 oz.  treacle, 4 oz.
  Put all the ingredients into a pitcher,  and pour
 3 pints of boiling water  upon them.  When new-
 milk warm,  give the whole for one dose.
  Another.—Take of Epsom salts, 1 lb.  aniseeds
 and ginger, in powder, each 2 oz.  treacle, 4 oz.
  Let this be given  in the same  manner as the pre-
 ceding.
  In  most cases these drinks will  be sufficient to
 purge a full grown animal of this kind.   By strict
 attention to th»above method of application, a fe-
 ver may be prevented,  and the animal  speedily
 restored. 
FARRIERY.
27$
   If the fever continue, after the intestines have
been evacuated (which is seldom the case),  it will
be proper to take some blood from the animal, and
the  quantity must be  regulated according  to the
disease and habit of body.
   'To cure the yellows or jaundice in neat cattle.
   As soon as this disease  makes its first appear-
ance, it may,  for the most part, be removed by ad-
ministering the following drink:
   Reduce to powder cummin seeds, aniseeds, and
turmeric root, each 2 oz.  grains of p radise, and
salt of tartar, each,  1 oz.
   Now slice 1 oz. of Castille soap, and mix it with
2 oz. of treacle; put the whole into  a pitcher, then
pour a quart of boiling ale  upon the ingredients,
and  cover  them down till  new-milk warm, then
give the drink.  It will often be proper to  repeat
this, two or three times, every other day,  or of-
tener if required.   If the beast be  in good condi-
tion, take away from two to three quarts of  blood;
but  the animal  should not be turned out after
bleeding that  day, nor at night, hut the morning
following it may go to its pasture as usual.   After
this has had the desired effect, let the following be
given:
   Take of balsam of copaiva, 1 oz. salt of tartar,
I oz. Castille soap, 2 oz.   Beat them together in
a marble mortar; and add of valeriai. root, in poAv-
der,  2 oz. ginger root and Peruvian bark, in pow-
der,  each 1 oz. treat':, 2 oz.
   Mix for one drink.
   Let this drink be given in a quart of warm gru-
el, and repeated if necessary every other day.  It
will  be proper to keep the body sufficiently open
through eyery stage of the  disease; for  if costive-
ness  be permitted, the fever will increase,  and if
not timely removed, the  disorder  will terminate
fatally.
      Frenzy, or inflammation of the brain,
   Is  sometimes occasioned by wounds or contu-
sions in the head, tlvtt are attended with violent
inflammations of the vessels, and  if not speedily
relieved, may terminate in a gangrene or a morti-
fication, which is very ofte*h the case, and that in a
few days.
                Method of cure.
   In the cure of this disease, the following method
must be attended to:—First lessen the quantity of
blood by frequent bleeding, which may  be repeat-
ed daily if  required, and by which ihe great efflux
of blood upon the temporal arteries will be lessen-
ed and much retarded.  The following purgative
drink will be  found suitable for this disease,  and
likewise for most fevers of an inflammatory na-
ture.
   Take of Glauber  salts, 1 lb. tartarized antimo-
ny, 1 irachm, camphor, 2 drachms, treacle, 4 oz.
   Mix, and put the whole into a pitcher, and pour
3 pints of boiling water upon them.
   When neAv-milk Avarm add laudanum, half an
ounce, and give it all for one dose.
   This drink will in general operate briskly in the
space of 20 or 24 hours; if not, let  one  half of the
quantity be given to  the  beast every  night  and
morning, until the desired effect be obtained.
        To cure hoven or blown in cattle.
   This complaint is in general occasioned  by the
animal feeding for a considerable time  upon rich
succulent food, so that the stomach  becomes over-
charged, and they, through their greediness to eat,
torget  to lie down to ruminate or cheAv their cud.
Thus the paunch or first stomach is rendered inca-
pable of expelling  its contents; a concoction and
fermentation take place in the stomach,  by which
a large  quantity of confined air is formed in the
part  that extends nearly to  the anus, and for want
of vent at  that part, causes the  animal to swell
 even to a state of suffocation, or a rupture of some
 part of the stomach or intestines ensues.  As sud-
 den death is the consequence of this, the greatest
 caution is necessary in  turning cattle into a fresh
 pasture, if the bite of grass  be considerable; nor
 should they be suffered to stop too long at a time
 in  such  pastures before they are removed into a
 fold yard, or  some close Avhere there is but  little
 to eat, in order that the organs ot rumination and
 digestion may have time to discharge their func-
 tions.
   If this be attended to several times, it will take
 away tha,t greediness of disposition, and prevent
 this distressing complaint.
                   Treatment.
   As soon as the beast  is discovered to be either
 hoven or blown, by eating too great a quantity of
 succulent grasses,  let a purging  drink be given;
 this will, for the most part, check fermentation in
 the stomach, and in a verv short time force a pas-
 sage through the intestines.
                  Paunching.
   This is a method frequently resorted to in  dan-
 gerous cases.   The operation is performed in the
 following manner:—Take a sharp pen-knife and
 gently introduce it into the  paunch between the
 haunch bone and the last rib on the left side.  This
 will instantly give vent  to a large quantity of  fetid
 air; a small tube of  a  sufficient  length may then
 be introduced  into  the wound, and remain  until
 the air is sufficiently evacuated;  afterwards, take
 out the tube, and lay a  pitch plaster  over the ori-
 fice.  Wounds of this kind are  seldom  attended
 with danger; where it has  arisen, it has been oc-
 casioned  by the injudicious  operator introducing
 his knife into a wrong part.  After the wind is ex-
 pelled, and  the body has  been reduced to its na-
 tural state, give the folloAving
                 Cordial drink.
  Take  aniseeds,  diapente,  and  elecampane,  in
 powder,  each 2 ounces,  tincture of rhubarb,  2
 ounces, sweet spirits of nitre, 1 ounce, treacle,  4
 table-spoonsful.
  Mix and give it in a quart of warm ale or gruel.
  This drink may be repeated every other day for
 2 or 3 times.
  Another.—Take  aniseeds, grains  of paradise,
'and cummin-seeds, each 2 ounces, in powder, spi-
 rits of turpentine, 2 table-spoonsful, sweet spirits
 of nitre, 1 oz.  treacle,  2 table-spoonsful.
   Mix and  give them in a quart  of warm ale or
 gruel.
  This may be repeated once a day for two or three <
 times.
           To cure swimming in  the head.
  This disease mostly  attacks  animals that  have
 been kept in a state of poverty and starvation dur-
 ing the winter season; and which have in the spring
 of the year been admitted into a fertile  pasture:
 hence is produced a redundancy of blood and other
 fluids, pressing upon the contracted vessels, while
 the animal  economy, on the other hand,  is using
 its utmost endeavour to  restore  reduced nature to
 its original state.  If it  is not checked in its infan-
 cy by bleeding, evacuating, &c. inflammation in all
 probability must take  place;  in  which case  the
 beast is attended Avith all the symptoms of one that
 is raving mad.
  The cure must first be attempted by taking from
 two to three or four quarts of blood  from  the a..i-
 mal, according to size and  strength;  two ex three
 hours after give a purging drink.
  Purging is very necessary in this disease, as well
 as in all others of an inflammatory kind; for other-
 wise  it will be impossible to check  its progress:
 and  as soon as this  is effected, tlie following  may
 be given: 
280
UN1VF.USAL
RECEIPT BOOK.
          Sudorific drink for the same.
  Take of tartar emetic, 1 drachm,  volatile salt,
and camphor, each 2 drachms in  powder, nitre,
and cream  of tartar in powder, each 1 oz. treacle,
4 table-spoonsful.
  Mix and put them in a pitcher, with a quart of
not gruel, then stir the whole together and give it
when  new milk warm-
             To tan hides or skins.
  There are many vegetable substances which pos-
sess the tanning principle:  but the chief are the
oak,  alder, valonea,  larch,  av'iIIoav,  and  Peru-
vian barks.  The latter from  its high value is onty
used in Medicine; oak  bark, from its plentiful sup-
ply, and the strength of its astringent juices, may
be properly termed the staple  article of the tanning
business; this bark is ground into coarse shreds in
a mill from which  a decoction or liquor is  made,
called ooze, into which the  hides  or  skins, after
being properly cleared of their extraneous filth and
juicy redundancies, are immersed, and first sub-
jected to the action of  a weak decoction of tan, in
which  stage they  remain,  according to their
strength and size,  from a fortnight  to several
weeks, during which th.y are frequently handled,
to-create a  more kindly incorporation between the
vegetable and animal juices, from thence they are
removed to a vat containing a stronger infusion of
bark, where they remain a considerable time, until
they have  absorbed  all the tan; they are then im-
mersed in a still stronger infusion  of this liquor,
and frequently taken out to be handled  as before:
if it is perceived that the  liquor does not operate
upon thern with sufficient effect, a plentiful  sprin-
kle of dry  bark is thrown betAvixt  every layer of
hides, and  as soon as the outside and internal parts
ass'.ime a good healthy  brown colour, they may be
said to be converted into  leather.   Calf skins re-
quire, according to their size, from 2 to 3 months
in tanning: cow hides 6 months,  and  strong ox
hides from 9 to 12 months.
  The article of valonea, a most powerful vegeta-
ble astringent, has  become a great  favourite with
tanners of late years;  it is alloived to give the
leather more weight than oak bark, but it produces
a dulness of colour  in the  article tanned with it: at
the same time it is  the finest basis for blacks the
dyers possess.   The bark of the larch fir gives to
leather a most  beautiful bloom, and  since  it has
been proved equal to the tannage of heavy  hides,
is likely to become the best substitute for oak bark.
   To tan without bark or mineral  astringents.
  This method does not differ from that in general
use, except in  the saving of time and expense, and
t..e  preparation of the astringent liquor.   The
hides and  skins, previous to their  being put into
the liquor, are plunged into-a preparation of bran
and  water for tAvo days.  The astringent liquor is
composed of 17 gallons of water, ^ lb.  of Aleppo
galls, 5 lbs. of tormentil, or septfoil root, and l£
oz. of Bengal  catechu.  The galls, he. are to be
finely poAvdered, and boiled in the  water a certain
  It will be necessary to repeat  this drink  twice a
day, until the symptoms begin to abate: aftei-Avards
once a day  will be sufficient.  But so  long as the
feAer continues to be attended with delirious symp-
toms, it will be  proper  to take from  one  to tAvo
or three  quarts of blood from  the  animal everv
two or three days,
time, and when cool, the skins are to be put  in,
and handled frequently during the first three days,
afterwards to remain two or three days; then to be
handled two, three, or more times in one day, and
finally lo remain undisturbed for 25 days, when the
process is completed.
  This improved method o^ tanning will produce
a saving of 50 per cent, in money, and at least two
months in time.
            Improvement in tanning.
  The trunk, roots, limbs, branches, and leaves of
the oak,  whether tree, pollard, coppice, or under-
wood,  possess tanning properties in  a sufficient
quantity to be employed with advantage for tanning,
by reducing them to chips or saw-dust, and then
boiling and using them in the following way:
         To tan calf or other thin skins.
  Put 1 cwt. of the limbs of branches, chopped as
above, into a copper containing  about 60 gallons
of water, and  boil till the  water be reduced to
from 35 to 40 gallons: draw off  the decoction.
  Now add to the same limbs or branches 40 gal-
lon's of water, and  again  boil  till the water be re-
duced to about 25  gallons.  The  liquor thus pro-
duced by the second boiling is used as a weak ooze,
in the first  process of immersing the calf skins
after they come from the  scouring beam.  The
decoction first produoed, is then to be used in the
same way.
                To tan hides.
  Take 1 cwt. of the limbs or branches, £ cwt. of
oak saAv-dust,  (the sooner  after  being made the
better,) and £ cwt.  of the root; boil in 80 galls, of
water, till reduced to from 50 to 60 gallons. Draw
off the decoction, and put it aside for use.  To the
materials left in the copper add 60 gallons of water
and again boil, till reduced to  from  30 to 35 gal-
lons.   The liquor produced by this second boiling
is to be employed in the first stage of tanning hides
after they come from the  beam; and afterwards the
decoction first produced is to be employed.  The
skin and hides having undergone the before-men-
tioned process, add  as much oak bark, or tan-li-
quor, or both, to the respective decoctions, as is
necessary to complete the tanning.  The quantity
of each will vary according to the strength of such
decoctions;  which  strength will depend on the agf
and size of the tree, and other circumstances.
  Another.—As soon as tlie wool  or hair is pulled
or taken off, let the hide or skin be dipped  into
water and undergo the operation of fleshing.  It
should then be dipped again into water,and undergo
the operation called skudding;  after which it will
be in a state fit  to be tanned, tawed, or dressed.
            TANJRITBJG,

AND THE TREATMENT OF LEATHER. 
TANNING.
2a i
  This process occupies much less time, and occa-
sions less labour and expense, than that in general
practice, which consists in immersing the skins in
lime-pits,  for  several weeks, to be  afterwards
drenched and purified.
            New process of tanning.
  Oak saw-dust  and slips of oak, cut" thin, and
eveu the  leaves of that  tree, contain a  sufficient
quantity  of the tanning principle, to  recomnfend
it as advantageous in the manufacturing of leather.
To tan calf and sheep skins, or other light articles,
take 100  lbs. of thin oak slips, boil  them  in 60
gallons of water reduced to 40, leave it to depose,
aud then decant it; afterwards pour 40 gallons of
fresh water on the residue and boil it till reduced
to 25 gallons, immerse the skin into the last decoc-
tion, after receiving the accustomed preparations,
then put  them into the liquor first prepared, and
let  them remain till fully saturated with the search-
ing powers of the vegetable liquid.
       'J'o convert sheep skins into leather.
  Sheep skins, which are used for a variety of pur-
poses,  such as gloves, book covers, he. a.id which,
when  dyed,  are converted  into mock  Morocco
leather, are dressed as follows:—They are first to
be soaked in water  and  handled, to  separate all
impurities,  which may be scraped off by a blunt
knife on  a beam.   They  are then to be hung up in'
a close warm room to putrefy.  This  putrefaction
loosens the avooI, and causes the exudation of an
oily and  slimy matter, all which are to be re noved
by  the knife.  The skins are now to be steeped in
milk of lime, to  harden  and  thicken; here they
remain for a month or 6  weeks, according to cir-
cumstances, and  when taken out, they are  to be
smoothed on the fleshy side by a sharp knife.  Thty
are now to be steeped in a bath of bran and water,
where  they undergo  a partial fermentation, and
become thinner in vheir substance.
  The skins, which are now called pelts, are to be
immersed in a solution of alum and common salt
in water; in  the  proportion of 120 skins to 3 lbs.
of  alum  and 5 lbs. of salt.   They are to be much
agitated in this compound saline bath, in order to
become firm and tough.  From this bath they are
to be removed to another, composed  of  bran and
water, where they remain  until quite pliant by a
Blight fermentation.   To give their upper surfaces
a gloss, they are to be trodden in a wooden tub,
with a solution of yolks  of eggs  in water, previ-
ously  well  beaten up.   When  this  solution  has
become  transparent, it is a proof that  the skins
have absorbed the glazing matter.  The pelt may
now be said to be convened into  leather, which is
to be drained from moislure, hung upon hooks in
a warm apartment to dry, and smoothed over wilh
warm  hand-irons.
 To prepare sheep leather for various elegant pur-
               poses, by dyeing.
   The skins, Avhen taken from the lime-bath, are
immersed in one  composed of dog  and  pigeon
dung,  dissolved  by agitation in  water: here they
remain until the lime is  separated, and until the
skins  have  attained the  state of  soft pliable pelt.
To dye this pelt red, the skins are to be washed
and sewed  into bags, and stuffed with  clippings
and shavings of leather, or any  other convenient
substance; and immersed, with-the grain side oul-
wards, in a bath of alum a»d cochineal, of the
temperature of  170 or 180  degrees  Fahr. where
they are to be agitated until they are sufficiently
dyed.   Each bag is now  to be transferred to a ;
 sumach  bath, where they receive consistency and
tenacity. From ibis bath it is customary to remove
the skins, and to plunge them into a saffron one,
 to  improve their colour.
   To  dye these skins black,  the washed pelt is to
       2 L
be first immersed in the sumach bath, and then to
be rubbed over on the grained side, by a stiff brash
dipped in a solution of acetate, or pyrolignite of
iron.
  To give these skins the grain and polish of Mo-
rocco leather, they are first oiled, and then rubbed
on a firm board, by a convex piece of solid glass,
to which a handle is attached.  The leather being
noAV rendered more compact, is rubbed or pressed
hard,  by a sharply grooved boxwood  instrument,
shaped like the glass one just described.
  Lamb  and kid skins are dressed, tanned, and
dyed in a similar manner.
      To manufacture real Morocco leather.
  Goat skins are  cleansed  by soaking them in
water, have their hair removed, and are lined as
in the before-mentioned processes.  They then un-
dergo a partial fermentation, by a bath of bran and
water, and are afterwards immersed in another bath
of white figs and Avater, where they remain for five or
six days.  It is  now necessary to dip them in a so-
lution of salt and water,  to fit  them  for dyeing.
To communicate a red colour, the alum and cochi-
neal bath is to be used as for sheep skins; for
black, sumach,  and iron liquor as before; and for
yellow, the  bath is to be  composed of alum and
the pomegianate bark.
  The tanning, dressing,  and graining are the
same  as for sheep skins.
                Original method.
  The skins being first dried in the air, are steeped
in water three days and nights; then stretched on a
tanner's  horse,  beaten with a large knife,  and
steeped afresh  in water every day; they are then
lh\ j»ti into a large  vat on the ground, full of wa-
ter, where quicklime has been slaked, and there lie
15 days, whence they are taken, and again returned
every night and morning.   They are next thrown
into a fresh vat of lime  and  water,  and shifted
night and morning for 15 days longer; then rinsed
in clean water,  and the hair taken oft on the leg
with the knife,  returned into a third vat,  and shift-
ed as before for 18 days;  steeped twelve hours in
a river, taken out, rinsed, put in pails, where they
are pounded with  wooden pestles, changing the
water twice; then laid on Ihe horse, and the flesh
taken oft"; returned into pails of neAV water, taken
out, and the hair-side scraped; relumed into fresh
pails, taken out, and throAvn into a pail of a parti-
cular form, having  holes at bottom; here they are
beaten for the  space of an hour, and fresh water
poured on from time to time; then being stretched
on the leg, and scraped on either side, they are re-
turned into pails of fresh water, taken  out, stretch-
ed, and sewed up all round, in  the manner of
bags, leaving out the  hinder legs, as  an aperture
for the conveyance  of a mixture described  below,
   The skins thus sewed are put to luke-warm wa-
ter, where dog's excrements have  been  dissolved
Here they are stirred with long poles for half ai
hour, left at rest for twelve hours, taken out, rinseii
.in fresh water,  and  filled by a tonnel with a prepa-
ration of water  and  sumach, mixed and heated ovei
the fire till ready to boil; and, as they are filled,
the hind legs are sewed up to stop  the passage. Il
this state they are let down into the vessel of wa-
ter and sumach, and kept stirring for four hours
successively; taken out and  heaped on one another:
after  a little time their sides are changed, and thus
they continue an hour and a half till drained. This
done, they are loosened, and filled a  second time
Avith  the same preparation, sewed up again, and
wept stirring tAvo hours, piled  up  and drained as
before.  This process is again repeated, with this
difference, that they are then only stirred a quar-
ter of an  hour; after Avhich  they are  left  till
next morning, when they are taken out, drained on 
282
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
a rack, unsewed, the sumach taken out, folded in
tAvo from head to tail, the hair-side outwards, laid
over each other on the leg, to perfect their drain-
ing,  stretched out and dried: then trampled under
foot by tAvo and two, stretched on a wooden table,
what flesh and  sumach remains  scraped  off,  the
hair-side rubbed over with oil, and that again with
water.
  They are then wrung Avith the hands, stretched,
and pressed tight on the table with an iron instru-
ment like that of a currier, the flesh-side upper-
most; then turned, and the hair-side rubbed strongly
over  with a  handful ,of  rushes, to squeeze out as
much of the oil remaining  as possible.   The first
coat  of blaek is ooav  laid on  the  hair-side,  by
means of a lock of hair twisted and steeped in a
kind of black dye, prepared of sour beer, where-
in pieces of old rusty  iron have been  thrown.
When half-dried in the air, they are stretched on
i table, rubbed over every way with a paumelle, or
wooden-toothed instrument, to  raise the  grain,
OA'er which is passed a light couche of Avater, then
sleeked by rubbing them with rushes prepared  for
the purpose.  Thus sleeked, they have a second
couche of black, then dried, laid on the table, rub-
bed over with a paumelle of cork, to raise the grain
again; and after a light couche of wr.ter,  sleeked
over anew; and to raise the grain a third time, a
paumelle of wood is used.
  After the hair-side has received all its  prepara-
tions, the flesh-side is pared  Avith a sharp  knife
for the purpose; the hair-side  is  strongly rubbed
over with a  woollen cap,  having before given it
a gloss with  barberries,  citron, or orange.  The
whole is finished by raising the grain lightly, for
the last time,  with the  paumelle  of cork; so that
they are now  fit for  the maiket.
           To prepare red morocco.
  After steeping, stretching,  scraping,  beating,
and rinsing the skins as before, they are at length
w rung, stretched  on the leg, and passed after each
other into Avater where alum b*s been dissolved.
  hus alumed, they are left to drain till morning,
  en wrung out, pulled on the leg, and folded from
head to tail, the flesh inwards.
  In this  state they receive their first  dye,  by
passing them after one  another into a red liquor,
described  hereafter.  This is repeated  again and
again, till  the skins have got their first colour; then
they are  rinsed in clean water, stretched on  the
leg, and left to  drain 12 hours;  thrown  into water
through a  sieve, and stirred incessantly for a day
with long poles; taken out, hung on a bar across the
Avater all night, white against red, and red against
white, and in the morning the water stirred  up,
and the skins returned into it for 24 hours.
          Ingredients for the red colour.
  The following is the quantity and proportions of
the ingredients required for the red colour, for a
parcel of thirty-six skins:
  Cochineal,  130 drachms, round suchet (crocus
mdicus), 45 do.; gftta gamba,  15  do.; gum arabic,
10 do.; white alum pulverized, 10 do.; bark of the
pomegranate tree, 10 do.; citron juice, 2 do.; com-
mon water, 120 lbs.
  The alum is  gradually added to the other arti-
cles, and boiled in a copper for about two hours,
till one-tenth part of the water be  consumed.
To manufacture leather in imitation of Morocco,
       from  South American horse hides.
  Soften the  hides in  water; then spread it on a
tanner's beam,  and  let it be wrought Avith a knife
Dn the flesh side, and subjected to the action of lime
water.  In the  succeeding  process it is treated as
goat-skins for making morocco, i. e. put il into hot
water, with dog's dung, to purify the animal juices;
then  let it be again wrought with a kuife on both
I sides, on  a tanner's  beam; afterwards put it into
I blood-warm water with  bran; and, finally, tan it
 with si'mach.
\          'To manufacture Russia leather.
   Calf-skins steeped in a Aveak bath of carbonate
 of potass and water,  are Avell cleaned and scraped,
 to have the hair, &c.  removed.  They are now
 immersed in another bath, containing dog  and pi-
 geon's dung in water.  Being thus freed from the
 alkali, they are throAvn  into a  mixture of  oatmeal
 and  water, to undergo a slight fermentation.  To
 tan these  hides, it is necessary to  use  birch bark
 instead of oak bark;  and  during the operation they
 are to be frequently  handled or  agitated.   When
 tanned, and perfectly dry, they  are made  pliable
 by oil and much friction; they are then to be rub-
 bed over gently with birch tar, which gives them
 that agreeable odour peculiar to this  kind of lea-
 ther, and which secures them against the attacks ot
 moths and worms.   This odour will preserve the
 leather for many years; and, on account of it, Rus-
 sia leather is much used  in binding handsome and
 costly bwoks.  The marks, or intersecting lines on
| this  leather, are given  to it,  by passing over its
 grained surface a heavy iron  cylinder, bound round
 by wires.
 Use of the wood and bark of the horse-chesnut tree.
   The bark of the horse-chesnut tree contains
 twice the quantity of tanning principle as that of
 the oak, and nearly twice as  much  colouring mat-
 ter as the  best Campeachy logwood: its colouring
 matter is  to that of Campeachy exactly as 18 5 7
 is to 1.
   The leather manufactured  from it is  firmer,
 more solid and flexible, than  that from the oak.
 Besides, what  renders  it particularly valuable is,
 it contains a most powerful basis for black dyes
 and ink.   Mixed with iron of copperas it changes
 to a bluish black. Its liquor, extracted by boiling,
 appears blue like indigo, but  it produces on paper a
 must excellent black. In dyeing it possesses more
 affinity with wool than .umach;  and its extracted
 colour contains that rare virtue in a dye, perma-
 nency of colour.
     To tan or dress  skins in wliite for gloves.
   Clean the skins from wool or  hair, by laying
 them in a  vat of slaked lime  Avater for  5 or  6
 weeks.  During this operation th~ lime and w?ter'
 are  to be  twice  changed, and the skins are to be
 shifted every  day,  and  when  taken out for good,
 they are to be  laid all night  in a running water, to
 clear them from the forcing  qualities of the lime:
 next lay them  on a wooden leg by sixes, to  get the
 flesh off; then they are to be laid  in a vat with a
 little water, and to be fulled with  wooden  pestles
 for a quarter of an hour, after Avhich rinse them
 well in a full vat Of  water;  place them next on a
 clean pavement to drain, and afterwards cast them
 into a fresh pit of water, rinse ihem again, and re-
 lay them on the wooden  leg, with  their hair out-
 side,  over which  a whetstone  is to  be   briskly
 rubbed, to  fit them  for   further preparations.
 They are next to be put into a pit of Avater, mixed
 with wheaten  bran, and stirred  until the bran
 sticks to  the wooden  poles.   They  now arrive
 to a kind of fermentation, and as often as they rise
 on the top of the water, are to be  plunged dowu;
 at the same time the liquor,  now highly lermcnted,
 is to be fined.   When the skins have  done rising,
 take them out, and  scrape  away the  bran with  a
 knife on the leg: when  sufficiently  drained give
 them their feeding.  For 100 large sheep skins,
 take 8  lbs. of alum, and  3 lbs. of sea-salt, and
 melt the whole with water in a vessel.  Pour the
 solution out,  while  lukewarm, into a trough  in
 whica is 20 lbs. of the finest wheat flour, Aviih  the
 yolk if 8 dozen of eggs, of which mixed materials 
TANNING.
283
is formed a kind of pf;ste, somewhat thicker than
children's pap: next pour hot water into tH trough
where the paste was, mixing two spoonsful of the
paste with  it, with a  wooden  spoon, which will
contain  a sufficiency for 12 skins,  and when  the
Avhole is well incorporated, put 2 dozen of the
skins into it, taking care that the water is not too hot.
After they have been in some time, take them se-
verally out of the trough, and stretoh them tAvice
well out.  After they have absorbed the paste, put
them into tubs, and full as before.  Let tnem lie in
a vat 6 days, and hang them out to dry; in fair wea-
ther, on cords or racks. When dry,  put them into
bundles, just dipped in clean water, and drained;
throw them into  an  empty tub, and having lain
some time they are to be taken  out  and ti am pled
under foot; hang  them  up  a second time on the
cords to  dry, and finally smooth' them upon a table
ready for sale.
To  prepare  slieep, goat, or kid-skins  in  oil, in
              imitation of chamois.
                  Sheep skins.
  The skins, smeared  with quick-lime on  the
fleshy side,  are folded lengthways,  the  avooI out-
wards, and laid on heaps, to ferment 8 days; or if
they had been left to dry after flaying, for fifteen
days.
  Then  they are  washed out,  drained, and half
dried, laid on a wooden horse, the wool stripped
off Avith  a round staff for the purpose, and laid in
a Aveak pit of slaked lime.
  After twenty-four hours they are taken out,  and
left  to drain 24 more; then put into another strong
pit.   Then they are taken out, drained, and put in
again by turns; which begins to dispose them to
take oil; and this practice  they  continue for 6
weeks in summer, or 3 months in winter; at  the
end whereof they are washed out, laid on the wood-
en horse, and the surface of the skin on the wool
side peeled off, to  render  them the softer;  then
made into parcels, steeped a night in the river, in
winter more; stretched 6 or 7, one OA*er another on
the  wooden horse;  and the knife passed strongly
on the fleshy side, to take off any thing superfluous,
and render the skin smooth.
  Then  they  are stretched, as before, in the river,
and the  same operation repeated on the  wool side;
 then thrown into a tub of water and bran, which is
 brewed  among the skins till the greater part sticks
 to them; and  men separated into distinct tubs, till
 they swell, and rise of themselves above the water.
   By these means, the remains of the lime are
 cleared  out; they are  then Avrung out, hung up to
 dry on ropes, and sent to the mill,  with the quan-
 tity of oil necessary to fill them; the  best oil is that
 of cod-fish.
   Here they  are first thrown in bundles into the
 river for twelve hours, then laid in the mill-trough,
 and fulled without oil, till they are well softened;
 then oiled wilh the hand, one  by  one, and  thus
 formed  into parcels of four skins each, which are
 milled,  and dried on  cords a second time, then a
 third; then oiled again, and dried.
   This  is  repeated as  often as necessary; when
 done, if any  moisture remains they are dried in a
  stove, and  made up in parcels wrapped up in wool;
 after some time  they are opened  to the air, but
  wrapped up again as before, till the oil seems to
  have lost all  its force, which it ordinarily does in
  tAventy-four hours.                      v
                To scour the skins.
   The skins are  now returned to  the  chamoiser,
  to be scourged, by putting them into a lixivium of
  Avood-ashes,  working and beating  thtm in it with
  poles, and leaving them  to steep till the ley has had
  its  effect; then wrung out,  steeped in another lix-
  ivium,  wrung again, and  this repeated till the
grease and oil are purged  out.  They are then
half-dried, and passed over a sharp-edged iron in-
strument, placed perpendicularly in a block, which
opens and softens them: lastly, they are thoroughly
dried, and passed over the same instrument again
which finishes the preparation.
             Kid and goat skins.  •
  Kid, and goat-skins, are chamoised in the same
manner as those of sheep, excepting that the hair
is taken off by heat; and  that Avhen  brought from
Ihe mill they undergo a preparation called ramal-
ling, the most difficult of all.
  It consists in this, that  as soon as brought from
the mill they are steeped in  a fit lixivium; taken
out, stretched on a round wooden leg, and the hair
scraped off with the knife; this makes them smooth,
and in working cast a  fine nap.   The  difficulty is
in  scraping them evenly.
      To dress hare,  mole, or rabbit skins.
  Take a tea-spoonful of aium, and two of salt-
petre, ooth finely powdered: mix them well; sprin-
kle the powder on the flesh side of the skins, then
lay the  two salted sides  together, leaving the ftu
outward; roll the skin exceedingly tight, and tie it
round with packthread; hang it in a dry place for
some days,  then open it, and  if sufficiently dry
scrape it quite clean with a blunt knife, and keep
it in a dry situation.   This finishes the process.
  It may not be generally known,  that the bitter
applj bruised and put into muslin bags, will effec-
tually prevent furs from being destroyed by moths.
              To make parchment.
  This article is manufactured from sheep skins,
cleared from lime.   The skin  is  stretched on a
frame where the flesh is pared off with an  iron
circular knife; it is then moistened with a rag, and
Avhiting spread over it; the workman then, with a
large pumice-stone, flat at the bottom, rubs over
the skin, and  scours  off  the flesh.  He next goes
over it with the iron instrument as before, and rubs
it carefully with the pumice stone without chalk;
this serves  to smooth the flesh-side.  He drains
it again by passing over it the iron  instrument as
before; he passes it over the wool side, then stretch-
es it tight on a frame.  He now throws more whit-
ing and SAveeps it over with a piece  of  woolly
lamb-skin.   It is  now  dried, and taken off the
frame by cutting it all round.   Thus prepared, it
is taken outof the skinner's hands by the parchment
maker, Avho, while it is dry, pares it on a summer,
(which is a calf-skin stretched in a frame,) with a
sh' "per instrument than  that used by the skinner,
who, working it with the arm from the top to the
bottom of  the skin, takes away about half its sub-
stance. It is again rendered smooth by the pumice-
stone, which leaves the parchment finished.
  To convert old parchment or vellum into leather.
   Soak and  wash the skins well and often in soft
 water for 24 hours; then remove them for the same
period into  a bath  composed  of  1^ lb. of Avhite
vitriol, 1 lb. of  cream of tartar, and 1  oz. of sal
 ammoniac, dissolved  in 20 gallons of water.  Next
 add 10  lbs.  of  vitriolic  acid, 1  lb. of nitric acid,
 and 1 pint of spirit of salt, in which steep the skins,
 for a short time to purge away the old  lime:  next
 wash them clear of the acid, and rinse them as dry
 as possible,  without  damaging the skins.   They
 are then to be put into a tanning liquor, composed
 of 20 lbs. of oak bark, 7 lbs. of sumach, 5 lbs.'of
 elm-bark,  3 lbs. of sassafras, and the same quan-
 tity of lignum vitas shavings, portioned to 20 gal-
 lons of water, and previously warmed for 12 hours,
 and cooled down to a  new-milk warmth, before the
 skins are immersed.
                To make vellum.
  NThis is a species of parchment made of the skins
 of abortives, or suckling calves: it has a much finer 
2 n
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
  rain, and is white and smoother than parchment,
  ut is prepared in the same manner, except its not
being passed through the lime-pit.   The article is
used for binding superior books, and covering of
drum heads.
         To preserve leather from mould.
   Pyroligneous acid may be used with success in
preserving leather from the attacks of raouldiness,
and is serviceable  in recovering it after it has re-
ceived that species of damage,  by passing it over
the surface ot the  hide  or skin, first taking  due
care to expunge the mouldy spots by the applica-
tion of a dry cloth.  This  remedy  will prove of
equal service if applied  to boots, shoes, he. when
damaged in the same manner.
               To curry leather.
  This process prepares leather to be made up into
boots, shoes, saddles, he. and is performed upon
the flesh or grain: in dressing on the flesh, the first
operation  is  soaking the  leather until it be tho-
rougly wet,  then  the flesh side  is shaved on  a
wooden  beam.  The knife used is of a rectangular
form, with a handle at each end,  and a double edge;
after the skin is properly shaved, it is thrown into
water again and scoured upon a board by rubbing
the grain  or hair side  with  a piece of pumice-
stone, by which means the  substance is produced
out of the leather called  " the bloom."  The hide
is then conveyed to the drying place when the sub-
stance is applied,  consisting of a mixture  of cod
oil and Russian tallow, principally upon the flesh
side; it is now  Avaxed, which  is done by rubbing
it with a brush dipped in oil and lamp black on the
flesh side; it is then  sized with  a brush or sponge
dried  and tallowed; this  is called wax leather.  To
black leather on the grain the first operation is the
same till il is scoured.   Then a brush dipped in
urine is  rubbed over the leather, and after it is dry
it is again rubbed over with  a brush dipped in
copperas water, and after, the grain is raised by a
fine graining board, when it is finished and fit for
the shoe-maker's use.
       To dye Morocco and sheep leather.
  The following colours may be imparted to lea-
      To choose the best soil for a garden.
  Prefer a sandy loam, not less than two feet deep,
and good earth not of a b'udiug nature in summer,
nor retentive of rain in winter;  but of such a tex-
ture, that it can  be worked without difficulty in
any season of the year.   There are  few sorts of
fruit-trees, or esculent vegetables, which require
less depth of earth to grow in  than two feet to
bring them to perfection, and if the earth of the
kitchen-garden be three or more feet  deep, so
much the better; for when the plants, are in a state
of maturity, if the roots even  of peas, spinach,
Kidney beans, lettuce, he. be minutely traced, they
will be found to penetrate into the earth,  in search
of food, to the depth of two feet, provided the soil
be of  a nature that allows them. If it can be done,
a garden should be made on land whose  bottom is
not of a springy wet nature.  If this rule can be
observed, draining'will be unnecessary;  for when
land is well prepared for the growth of fruit-trees
and esculent vegetables, by trenching, manuring,
and digging, it is by these meaus brought into such
ther, according to the vari ius uses for which it is
intended.
                    Blue.
  Blue is given  by  steeping the subject  a  day in
urine and indigo, then  boiling it Avith alum; or it
may be given by tempering the indigo with red
wine, and washing the  skins therewith.
  Another.—Boil elder berries, or  dwarf elder,
then  smear  and wash the skins therewith, and
wring them out; then boil the berries as bef. re in
a solution of  alum water, and Avet the skins in the
same ir inner, once  or  tAvice; <iry them, and they
will be very blue.
                     Red.
  Red is g'n'en  by washing the skins, and  laying
them two hours in galls; then wringing them out,
dipping  them in a  liquor made Avith  li6astrum,
alum, and verdigris, in water; and lastly in a dye
made of  Brazil-wood boiled with ley.
                    Purple.
  Purple is given by wetting  the skins with a  so-
lution of roche alum  in  warm water, and when
dry, again rubbing them with the hand, with a de-
coction of log-wood in cold water.
                    Green.
  Green  is given by smearing the skin with sap-
green and alum-water boiled.
                 Dark green.
  Dark green is given with  steel filings and  sal
ammoniac, steeped  in urine till soft,  then smear-
ed  over  the  skin, which  is  to  be  dried in the
shade.
                    Yellow.
  Yellow is given by smearing the skin over with
aloes and linseed oil, dissolved and strained, or by
infusing it in  weld.
                Light orange.
  Orange colour is given by smearing  with fustic
berries, boiled in alum water; or, for a deep orange,
with turmeric.
                 Sky-colour.
  Sky-colour is given with indigo steeped in boil-
ing water, and  the next morning  warmed and
smeared  over the skin.
a porous temperament, that the rains pass through
it without being detained longer than  necessary.
If the land of a garden be of loo  strong a nature,
it should be well mixed with sand, or scrapings of
roads, where stones have been ground to pieces by
carriages.
            To make gravel walks.
  The bottom should  be laid with lime-rubbish,
large flint stones, or any other hard matter, for
eight  or ten  inches thick,  to  keep weeds  from
growing through, and over this the gravel  is to be
laid six or eight inches thick.  This should be laid
rounding up in the  middle,  by which means the
larger stones will run off to the sides, and may be
raked away; for the gravel should never be screen-
ed before it is laid on.  It is a common  mistake to
lay these walks too  round, which  not only makes
them uneasy to wallc upon, but takes off from their
apparent breadth.  One inch in five feet is a suffi-
cient proportion for the rise in the middle; so that
a Avulk of twenty feet wide  should be four inches
higher at the middle than at the edges, aud so in
HORTICULTURE. 
HORTICULTURE.
286
  roportion. As soon as the gravel is laid, it should
  e raked, and the large stones thrown back again;
 then the whole should be rolled both lengthwise
 and crosswise; and the person who  draws the roll-
 er should wear shoes with flat heels,  that he may
 make no holes, because holes made in a neAV walk
 are  not easily remedied.  The walks should al-
 ways be rolled three or four times  after very hard
 showers,  from which  they will bind more firmly
 than otherwise they could ever be made to do.
   To prepare hot-beds, manures, and composts.
   Stable-dung is in the most general use for form-
 ing hot-beds,  which are masses of  this dung  after
 it has undergone its violent fermentation.
   Ba.k is only preferable to dung,  because the
 substance which  undergoes  the process of putrid
 fermentation requires longer time to decay.  Hence
 it is found useful in the bark pits of hot-houses, as
 requiring to be seldomer  moved or renewed  than
 dung, or any other substance.
   Leaves,  and especially  oak  leaves,  come the
 nearest to bark, and have the additional advantage,
 that when perfectly rotten like dung, they form a
 rich mould, or excellent manure.
   The  object of pronaration in these three  sub-
 stances  being to get rid of the violent heat which
 is produced when the fermentation  is  most power-
 ful,  it is obvious that preparation must consist in
 facilitating the process.   For this purpose, a cer-
 tain degree of moisture and air in the fermenting
 bodies are requisite; and hence the  business of the
 gardener is to turn them over frequently, and ap-
 ply water Avhen the. process appears impeded, and
 exclude rain, when chilled with too  much water.
   Recent  stable dung generally requires to  lie a
 month in ridges or beds, and be turned over in that
 time thrice before it is fit for  cucumber-beds of
 the common construction;  but for Me Phail's hot-
 beds, or for linings, or for frames with  moA'eable
 bottoms, three weeks, a fortnight, or less, will suf-
 fice; or no time at all need be g'lA'en, but the dung
 form -d  at once into linings.  Tan  and leaves re-
 quire, in general, a month.   Fermentation is al-
 ways most rapid  in summer; and if the materials
 are spread abroad during frost, it is totally imped-
 ed.  In winter the process  of preparation gene-
 rally goes on under the back sheds; which situa-
 tion is also the best in summer, as full exposure to
 the sun and wind dries too much the exterior  sur-
 face; but where sheds cannot be had, it will go on
 very well in the open air.  Some cultivators have
 devised  plans  to economize  heat by fermenting
 dung in vineries  which  are just beginning to be
 forced, or in vaults under pine pits, or plant stoves.
              To form dung beds.
'  In general, such beds are formed on a level sur-
 face; but MrT. A. Knight's plan is, to form a sur-
 face of  earth as a basis, which shall incline to the
 horizon to the extent  of 15 degrees: on this he
 forms the dung-bed"to the same inclination; and fi-
 nally, the frame,  Avhen placed on such a bed, if, ss
 is usual,  it be  deepest behind, will present its
 glass at  an angle of 20 degrees instead of 6 or 8,
 which is,  undoubtedly,  of great advantage  in the
 winter season.
   Ashes are often mixed with the dung of  hot-
 beds, and are supposed to promote  the steadiness
 and duration of their heat; and at least to revive it,
 if somewhat decayed.  Tan leaves have also been
 used for the  same purpose; and it  is  generally
 found that about one-third of tan and two-thirds of
 dung will form a more durable and  less violent
 heat, than a bed wholly of  dung.  The  heat of
 dung-beds is revived by linings or  collateral  and
 surrounding walls or banks of fresh dung, the old
dung of the bed being previously cut down close
to the frames;  and, in severe weather,  the sides of I
 the bed are often protected by bundles of straw or
 faggots.
   The residuum  of heats, properly reduced  by
 keeping, is a good simple manure for most fruit-
 trees, and excellent in a compost; but where the
 soil is nat'irally cold, a little ashes of coals, wood,
 straw, or burnt turf, or a minute proportion of soot,
 ought to be incorporated with  it.   Hog-dung has
 a peculiar virtue in invigorating weak trees.  Rot-
 ted turf, or any vegetable refuse, is a general ma-
 nure, excellent for  all soils not already too  rich.
 One of the best correctives of too rich a soil is
 drift sand.  For an  exhausted soil, where a fruit-
 tree that has  been an old profitable'occupant is
 wished to be continued, a dressing of animal mat-
 ter is a powerful restorative; such as hogs' or bul-
 locks' blood, offal from the slaughter-house, refuse
 of skins and leather,  decomposed carrion, &c.
 The drainings of dung, laid on as mulch, are high-
 ly serviceable.
   It is very proper to crop the ground among new
 planted  orchard trees for a feAv years, in order to
 defray the expense  of hoeing and cultivating  it,
 which should be done until the temporary plants
 are removed, and the whole be sown doAvn in grass.
 As the trees  begin to produce fruit, begin also to
 relinquish cropping.  When by tiieir productions
 they defray all expenses, crop no longer.
          To make composts for manure.
   During hot weather, says Knight, I have all the
 offals in t!)e garden, such as weeds leaves of straw-
 berries,  and other vegetables, short  grass,  peas,
 and asparagus haulm, wilh the foliage of  trees and
 shrubs when newly  shed, carefully collected into
 a  heap.  These are all turned over and mixed dur-
 ing the winter, that they may be sufficiently rotted
 to mix with the dung against the end of summer.
 1 have also another heap formed with the prunings
 from goosebeny and currant bushes, fruit-trees,
 raspberry  shoots, clippings of box-edgings, and
 loppings from shrubs; also the roots of greens and
 cabbages: which are generally burnt at two different
 periods in the year, viz. in spring and autumn, but
 previous to each burning, I endeavour to pare up
 all the coarse grasses around  the garden, with a
 portion of the  soil adhering thereto; and when-
 ever these are sufficiently dried,  have them col-
 lected to the heap intended to be burnt.   The fire
 is kindled at a convenient distance from the heaps,
 and a portion  of such as burn most easily is first
 applied,  until the fire has gained  a considerable
 power.   After this, the process of fuming is con-
 tinued, by applying lighter and heavier substances
 alternately, that the one  may preserve  the action
 of the fire, and the other prevent it from  reducing
 them too much to ashes.  When  the whole are
 thus  consumed, a quantity of mould  is thrown
 over  the  heap  to  prevent the fire from  breaking
 through; and whenever it can be  broke  into with
 safety, it is then mixed up into a dunghill with the
 rotted vegetables,  moss-earth,  and  stable-yard
 dung, in such proportions as  is likely to insure a
 moderate fermentation,  which  is generally com-
 pleted in three or four weeks; at which  time it is
 most advantageously applied,  in having it carried
 to the ground,  and instantly dug in.
         To make composts for moulds.
   Composts are mixtures of several earths, or
 earthy substances or dungs, either for the improve-
 ment of the general soil under culture, or for the
 culture of particular plants.
   In respect to composts for the  amendment ot
 the general soil of the garden, their quality must
 depend  upon that  of the  natural soil: if this be
 light, loose, or sandy, it may be assisted by heavy
loams, clays, he.  from ponds and ditches, clean-
ings of sewers, he.  On the  other  hand, heavy, 
286
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 clayey, and all stubborn soils, may be assisted by
 light composts of sandy earth, drift, and sea-sand,
 the shovelings of turnpike roads, the cleansiug of
 streets, all kinds of ashes, rotten  tanner's bark,
 rotten wood,  saw  dust, and other similar light
 opening materials,  that can be most conveniently
 procured.
          To  make composts for plants.
   These may  be reduced to light sandy loam from
 old  pastures:  strong loam  approaching  nearly to
 brick earth from the same source: peat earth, from
 the surface of heaths or commons; bog earth, from
 bogs  or morasses;  vegetable earth,  from decayed
 leaves,  stalks, cow-dung,  &cc.  sand, either  sea-
 sand, drift-sand, or powdered stone, so as to be as
 free as possible from iron;  lime-rubbish; and last-
 ly common garden  earth.   There are  no known
 plants that will not grow or thrive in one or other
 of these earths, alone or mixed with  some other
 earth, or with rotten dung or leaves.  Nurserymen
 have seldom more than three sorts of earth: loam,
 approaching to the qualities of brick-earth; peat
 or bog-earth; and the common soil of their nurse-
 ry.  With these  and the  addition of a little sand
 for striking plants,  some sifted lime-rubbish  for
 succulents, and some  well-rotted  cow-dung  for
 bulbs, and some sorts of trees, they continue to grow
 thousands ofdifferent species in as great or greater
 perfection as in their native countries, and  many,
 as the pine, vine, camelia, rose, &c. in a superior
 manner.
              To prepare  composts.
  The preparation  necessary for heavy and light
 composts for general enrichment, and of the above
 different earths, consists in collecting each  soil in
the compost ground, in separate ridges of three or
four feet broad, and as high, turning them every
 six weeks or two months for a year or a year and
a half before  they are used.  Peat earth,  being
generally procured in the state of turves foil of the
roots and tops of heath, requires two  or three years
to rot;.but, after it has lain one  year,  it may be
 sifted, and Avhat passes through a small  sieve will
be found fit for use.   Some  nurserymen use both
these loams and peats as soon as  procured, and find
them answer perfectly for most plants; but for deli-
cate flowers, and especially bulbs, and all florists'
flowers, and  for all composts in which  manures
enter, not less than one year ought  to be allowed
for decomposition, and what is called ^iveelening.
     To make  a green-house or conservatory.
  The  depth  of  green-houses should  never  be
greater than their height in the clear; which,  in
small or middling houses may be 16 or 18 feet,  but
in large ones from 20 to 24 feet; and the length of
the windows should  reach from about one foot and
a half above the pavement, and Avitliin the same
distance of the ceiling.        ,
  The floor of the  green-house, which  should be
laid either Avith Bremen  squares, Purbeck stone,
or flat tiles, must be raised two feet above the sur-
face of the adjoining ground, or, if the situatio.i be
 damp, at least three feet; and if the whole is arch-
 ed Avith  low brick arches under the floor, they will
 lie of great service in preventing damp; and under
 the floor, about two feet from the front,  it will be
 very advisable to  make a flue of ten inches wide
 und tAvo feet deep; this should be carried the whole
 length of the house, and then returned back along
 the hinder part, and there  be carrii d up into fun-
 nels adjoining to  the tool-house, by  which  the
 smoke may be carried off.   The fire-place may be
 contrived at one end of the house, and the door at
 which the fuel is put in, as also the ash-grate, may
 be contrived to open into the tool-house.
  Whilst the front of the  green-house  is exactly
 south, one of the wings may be made to face the
 south-east, and the other, the south-west. By this
 disposition the heat of the  sun is reflected from
 one part of the building to  the other all day, and
 the front of the main green-house is guarded from
 the cold winds.   These two wings may be so con-
 trived as to  maintain  plants of different degrees
 of hardiness, which may be easily effected  by the
 situation and extent of the fire-place, and the man-
 ner of conducting the flues.
   The sloping glasses  of these houses  should be
 made to slide  and take off, so that they may be
 drawn down more or  less in warm  weather to
 admit air to the plants; and the upright glasses in
 the front may he  so contrived  as that every other
 may open as doors  upon hinges, and the alternate
 glasses may be divided  into two; theupper part of
 each snould be so  contrived as to be drawn down
 like sashes, so that  either of them may be used to
 admit  air in a  greater or  less quantity, as there
 may be occasion.  As to the management of plants
 in a green-house, open the mould about them from
 time to time, and sprinkle a little fresh mould in
 them, and a little warm dung on  that;  also water
 them when the leaves begin to wither and curl, and
 not oftener, which would make them fade and be
 sickly: and take off such leaves as wither and grow
 dry.
            To propagate vegetables.
   Plants are universally propagated by seed, but
 partially also by germs  or bulbs, suckers, runners,
 slips, and offsets, and  artificially  by layers, inn-
 arching, grafting, budding, and cutting.
   The propagation  by seed is to make sure of live
 seeds;  for some lose their vitality  very early after
 being gathered, while others retain it only for one
 or perhaps two seatsons; some seeds also are  injur-
 ed, and others improved by keeping.   The size of
 seeds requires also to be taken into consideration,
 for on this  most frequently depends the  depth
 which they require  to  be buried  in the soil; the
 texture of their skin or covering must be attended
 to, as on this often depends  the time they require
 to be buried in the soil  previously  to germination.
 On the form  and surface of the outer  coating of
 seeds sometimes depends the  mode of soAving, as-
 in the carrot, and on their qualities in general de-
 pends their liability to be attacked by insects. The
 nature of the offspring  expects it,  and  the proper
 climate,  soil, and season, require also to be kept
 in view in determining how, Avhere,  when, and in
 what quantity, any seed must be soAvn.
   Germs or bulbs, cauline or  radical,  require in
 general to be planted immediately, or  soon after
 removal from the parent plant, in light earth,  about
 their own depth from the surface.   Matured  bulbs
 may be preserved out of the  soil for some months,
 without injury to their vitality; but  infant bulbs are
 easily dried up and injured Avhen so treated.
  Slips are shoots which spring from the collar or
 the upper part of the roots  of herbaceous ;ilants,
 as in auricular, and  under shrubs, as thymes, &c.
 The shoot when the lower part from whence  the
 roots proceed, begins to ripen  or  acquire a firm
 texture, is to be slipped or draAvn from the parent
 plant, so  far as to bring off a heel  or claw of  old
 wood,  stem,  or  root,  on which  generally  some
 roots, or rudiments  of  roots, are attached.  The
ragged parts and edges of this claw or rough sec-
tion are then to be smoothed with  a  sharp knife,
and the slip lo be planted iu suitable soil and  shad-
ed till it strikes root afresh.
  The  division of the plant is adopted in many
 species, as in grasses, the daisy, polyanthus, and a
great variety of others.  The plant  is taken up,
the earth shaken  from its roots; the whole is then 
HORTICULTURE.
287
separated, each piece  containing a portion of root
and stem, which may be planted without farther
preparation.
  With certain species runners is a convenient and
sure mode of propagation.  All  that  is requisite
is, to allow the plantlet on the shoot, or, runner, to
be well rooted before being separated froi  the pa-
rent.   It may then be planted where it is finally I
to remain.
  Suckers are merely runners under ground; some
run to a considerable distance, as the  acacia, nar-
row-leaved elm, sea-lime grass, &c.; others again
are more limited in their migrations, as the lilac, I
syringa, Jerusalem artichoke, saponaria, &c.  All j
that is  necessary is, to dig them up, cut off each
plantlet Avith a portion of root, after which its top
may be reduced by cutting off from one-fonrth to
one-half of the shoot, in order to fit it to the cur-
tailed root, and it may then be planted, either in
the nursery-department,  or,  if a  strong plant,
where  it is finally to remain.
           Propagation by layering.
  In general, the operation of  layering in trees
and shrubs is commenced  before the ascent of the
sap, or delayed till  the  ascent is fully up.  The I
shoot, or extremity  of the shoot, intended to be-
come  a  new  plant,  is half separated from the
parent  plant, at a  feAv inches distance  from its
extremity, and while this permits the ascent of the
sap at the season of its rising, the remaining half
of them, being cut through and separated, forms a
dam or sluice to the descending sap,  which, thus
interrupted in its progress, exudes at  the Avound,
in the form  of a granulous  protuberance,  which
throws out roots. If  the cut  or notch in the stem
does not penetrate at least half way through, some
sort of trees will not form a nucleus the first sea-
son; on the other hand, if the notch be cut nearly
through the shoot,  a  sufficiency of alburnum, or
soft wood, is not left for the ascent of the sap, and
the shoot dies.   In delicate sorts it is not sufficient
to cut a notch  merely, because  in that case, the
descending sap, instead of throwing out granulated
matter, in the upper side of the wound, would de-
scend by the entire side of the  shoot; therefore,
besides a notch formed by cutting out a portion of
bark and wood, the notched side is slit up at least
one inch, separating it by a bit  of twig, or  small
splinter of stone or  potsherd.   The operation of
layering is performed on herbaceous plants, as well
as trees; and  the part  to become the future plant
is, in bwth cases, covered  with soil about a third
of its length.
  When ihe layers are rooted, which will generally
be the  case by  the  autumn after the operation is
performed, they are all cleared from the  stools or
main-plants, and the head of each  stool, if  to be
continued for furnishing layers, should be dressed;
cutting off all decayed scraggy parts, and digging
the ground round them.  Some  fresh rich  mould
should also be worked in, in order to encourage
the production of the annual  supply of shoots  for
layering.
          Propagation by inn-arching.
  A sort of layering, by the commop  or slit pro-
cess, in which"the talus, or heel, intended to throw
out fibres, instead of being inserted in the soil, is
inserted in  the wood,  or between the wood and
bark of another plant, so as to incorporate with it.
It is the most certain mode  of propagation with
plants difficult to excite to a duoosition for rooting;
and when all other modes fail, this, when a proper
description of stock or basis is to be found, is sure
to succeed.
  The stocks designed to be inn-arched, and  the
tree from which the layer or shoot is to be bent or
arched towards them, and put in or united, must
be placed, if in pots, or planted if in the open soil,
near together.   Hardy trees of free growing kinds
should have a circle of stocks planted round them
every year in the same circumference, every  other
one being inn-arched  the one year, and when re-
moved, their places supplied  by others.  If the
branches of the tree are too high for stocks in the
ground, they should be  planted in pots,  and ele-
vated on posts or stands, or supported  from the
tree, &c.
  To perform the operation, having made one  of
the most convenient branches or shoots approach
the stock, mark, on the body of the shoot, the part
where it will most easily join to the stock; and in
that part of each shoot pare away the bark and part
of the wood 2 or 3  inches  in' length, and in the
same manner pare the stock in the proper place
for the junction of the shoot; next make a slit up-
wards  in that part  of the  branch or shoot, as in
layering, and make  a  slit  downward in the  stock
to admit it.  Let the parts be then joined, slipping
the tongue of the shoot  into the slit of the stock,
making both join in an exact manner; and tie them
closely together vith bags.  Cover the whole af-
terward, with a due quantity  of tempered  or
grafting clay or moss.   In  hot-houses, care  must
be taken  not to disturb the pots containing the
plants operated on.
                 By budding.
  Budding, or as it  is sometimes  called, grafting
by gems, consists in taking an eye or bud attached
to a portion of the bark  of ligneous vegetables, of
different sizes and  forms,  and  generally called a
shield, and transplanting it to another or a differ-
ent  ligneous Aegetab.le. The object in  view is
precisely that of grafting, and depends on the same
principle; all the difference between a bud and a
scion being, that a bud is a shoot or scion in em-
bryo.  Budded trees are two years later in pro-
ducing their fruit than grafted ones; but the advan^
tage of budding is, that where a tree is rare, a neAv
plant can*be got  from  every eye, whereas by graft-
ing it can only be got from every three  or four
eyes.  There are also trees which propagate much
more readily by budding than grafting; and others,
as most of the stone fruits, are apt to thrOAv out
gum Avhen grafted.  Budding is performed  from
the beginning of July to the middle of August, the
criterion being  the formation of the buds in the
axilla of the leaf of the present year.
   The buds are  known  to be ready by the shield,
or portion of bark  to  which  they are  attached
easily parting with the wood.
                Shie'I budding
  Is performed as follows:—Fix  on a smooth part
on the side of the stock, rather from than towards
the sun, and of a height depending, as in grafting,
on whether  dwarf, half, or whole standard  trees
are desired; then, with  the budding  knife, make
a horizontal cut across the rind quite  through the
firm wood; from the middle of this transverse cut
make a slit downward perpendicularly, an inch or
more long, going also quite through to the wood.
Proceed with expedition to take off a bud; holding
the cutting, or scion, in one hand, with the thickest
end outward, and with the knife in the other hand,
enter it about half an inch or more below a bud,
cutting nearly half-way into the wood of the shoot,
continuing it with  one clean  slanting cut, about
half an inch more  above  the bud, so deep as to
take off part of the  wood along with it, the whole
about an inch and a half long; then directly Avith
the thumb and  finger, or point of the. knife, slip
off the  woody part remaining to the bud; which
done, observe whether the eye or gem of the bud
remains perfect:  if not, and a  little hole appears
in that part, the bud has lost its root,  and another 
288
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 must be prepared.  This done, place the back part
 of the bud or shield between tho lips, and with the
 flat haft of the  knife,  separate the bark  of  the
 stock on each side of the perpendicular cut, clear
 to the wood, for the admission of the bud, which
 directly slip doAvn close-betAveen the wood and bark
 to the bottom of the slit. Next cut off the top part
 of the shield even with the  horizontal cut, in order
 to let it completely into its place, and to join  ex-
 actly the upper edge of the shield with the trans-
 verse cut, that the descending sap may immediately
 ente.- the back of the  shield, and  protrude  granu-
 lated matter between it and the wood, so as to
 effect a living union.   The parts are to be bound
 round with a ligament of fresh  bass,- previously
 soaked in water,  to render it pliable and tough;
 begin a little below the bottom of the perpendicu-
 lar  slit, proceeding upward closely round every
 part,  except just over the eye of the bud,  and con-
 tinue it a little above the horizontal cut, not  too
 tight, but just sufficient to keep the hole close, and
 exclude the air,  sun, and wet.
           Another method of budding.
   Trees are generally budded by  making a trans-
 verse section in the bark of the stock,  and. a per-
 pendicular  slit beneath it; the bud is then pushed
 down to give  it  the position  Avhich it  is to have.
 This operation is not always successlul,  and  it is
 better to employ  an inverse  or contrary method
 by making  the vertical slit  above the  transverse
 section or cut, and pushing the bark  containing the
 bud upwards into its proper position. This method
 very rarely fails '-f success,  because, as the  sap
 descends by the  bark, the  bud placed above  the
 transverse  section receives  abundance,  Avhereas,
 if it be placed below the section,  very little  sap
 can ever get to  it to  promote the  growth of  the
 bud.  Oil rubbed upon the  stems  and branches of
 fruit trees destroys insects, and increases the fruit-
 buds.  Used upon the stems of carnations, it guards
 them  against the depredations of the ear-wig. The
 coarsest oil will suit, and only a small quantity is
 required.
          To bud with double ligatures.
   This is a new and expeditious mode of budding
 by Mr T.  A. Knight.  The operations  are per-
 formed in the manner above stated; but, instead of
 one ligature, two  are applied; one above  the bud,
 inserted upon the transverse section, through  the t
 bark; the other applied below  in the usual Avay.
 As soon as  the buds have attached themselves,  i\e
 lower ligatures are taken off, but the  others  are
• suffered to  remain.  The passage  of the sap up-
 wards is in  consequence m tch obstructed, and  the
 inserted buds begin to  vegetate strongly in July
 (being inserted in June); and when  these have af-
 forded shoots about four inches long, the remain-
 ing ligatures are taken off, to permit the excess of
 sap to pass  on; and the young shoots are nailed to
 the wall.   Being there properly exposed to light,
 their  Avood  will ripen well,  and afford blossoms in
 the succeeding Spring.
                  1o graft trees.
   This is  a mode of propagation  applicable to
 most sorts of of trees and shrubs; but not easily to
 very small  under-shrubs, as heath  or herbaceous
 vegetables.   It is chiefly used for continuing vari-
 eties of fruit trees.  A grafted tree consists of two
 parts, the scion and the stock; their union consti-
 tutes the graft, and the performance of the opera-
 tion is called grafting.
   The end  of grafting is,  first,  to preserve  and
 multiply varieties and sub-varieties of fruit trees,
 endowed accidentally or otherwise with particidar
 qualities, which  cannot be with certainty transfer-
 red to their offspring by seeds, and which would
 be multiplied too slowly, or ineffectually, by  any
 other mode of propagation.
   Second, to accelerate the fructification of treei,
barren as well as fruit bearii.?; for example, sup-
pose two acorns ofa new species of oak, received
from a distant  country; sow both, and  after they
have grown one or two years, cut one of them over,
and graft the part cut off on a common oak of five
or six yars' growth; the consequence will be, that
the whole  nourishment of this young tree of five
years'  growth being  directed towards nourishing
the scion of one or  two years, it  will grow  much
faster, and consequently arrive at perfection  much
sooner than its fellow, or its own  root  left in the
ground.
  The third use of grafting is tolmprove the qual-
ity of fruits ; and the fourth to perpetuate varieties
of ornamental trees or shrubs.
           Materials used in grafting.
  Procure  a strong pruning-knife for cutting off
the heads of the stocks previous to their prepara-
tions by the grafting-knife for the  scion; a  small
saw for  larger stocks;  and a pen-knife for  very
small scions; chisel  and mallet for  cleft grafting;
bass ribbons as ligatures; and grafting clay.
           To prepare grafting-clay.
  Grafting-clay  is prepared either from stiff yel-
low or blue clay, or  from clayey loam or  brick
earth; in either case, adding thereto about a fourth
part of fresh horse dung,  free from  litter, and a
portion of cut hay, mixing the Avhole well together,,
andadding a little water: then let  the  whole  be
v,ell beaten with a stick upon a floor, or other hard
substance; and as it becomes too dry apply more
water; at every beating, turning it over; and con-
tinuing beating it well at top till it becomes flat and
soft.  This process  must be repeated more or less
according as the nature of the clay may require to
render it ductile, and yet not so tough as to be apt
to crack in dry weather.
                W/up grafting.
  Whip—or, as  it is sometimes called, tongue
—grafting, is the most  generally adopted in nur-
series for propagating fruit-trees.  To effect ibis
mode in the best  style, the top of the stock, and
the extremity of the scions, should be  nearly  of
equal diameter.   Hence this variety admits of be-
ing performed on smaller stocks than on any other.
It is called Avhip-grafting, from the method of cut-
ting the stock and scions sloping on one side so as
to fit each other, and thus tied together in the man-
ner of a whip-thong to the shaft or handle.
  The scion and stock being cut off obliquely, at
corresponding angles, as near as  the opeiator can
guess; then cut off the tip of the stock obliquely, or
nearly  horizontally; make now a slit nearly in the
centre of the sloped face of the stock  downwards,
and a  similar  one  in the  scion upwards.   The
tongue or wedge-like process, forming the upper
part of the sloping face of the  scion, is then inser-
ted dowmvards in the cleft of the stook; the  inner
barks of both being  brought closely to uniteonone
side so as not to be displaced in tying, which ought to
be done immediately with a ribband of bass, brought
in a neat manner several times round the stock, and
which is generally done from right to left, or in the
course of the sun. The next operation is to clav the
Avhole over an inch  thick on every side, from about
half an inch or more below the bottom of the graft
to an inch over the top of the stock, finishing the
Avhole coat of clay in a kind of oval globular form,
rather longways tip and down, closing it effectual-
ly about the scion and every part, so  as no  light,
wet, nor wind,  may penetrate; to prevent which is
the whole intention of claying.
                 Cleft grafting.
   This is resorted to in the case of strong stocks,
or in heading down and re-grafting old trees.   The
head of the stock or branch is first cut off oblique-
ly, and then the sloped uart is cut over horizon- 
1ANNING.
289
^ny near the middle of the  slope; a cleft nearly
tAvo inches long is made with a stout knife or chi-
sel in the crown downwards,  at right angles to the
sloped part, taking  care  not to  i'".vide the pith.
This cleft is kept  open by the knife.  The scion
has its extremity for about an inch and a half, cut
into the form ofa wedge; it is left about the eighth
of an inch thicker on the  outer side, and  brought
to a fine  edge  on  the inside. It is then inserted
into the opening prepared for it; and the knife be-
ing withdrawn, the stock closes firmly upon it.
                Croxvn grafting.
  This is another  -.node adopted for thick stocks,
shortened branches, or headed doAvn trees.  It is
sometimes called grafting in the bark or rind, from
the scion being inserted between the bark and wood.
This  .node  of grafting is performed with  best ef-
fect, somewhat later than the others, as the motion
ot the sap renders the  bark and wood of the stock
much more  easily  separated for the admission of
the scions.
  In performing this operation, first cut or saw off
the head  of the stock or branch horizontally or le-
vel, and pare the top smooth; then having  the sci-
ons cut one  side of each flat, and somewhat slop-
ing, an inch and  a half long, forming a  sort of
shoulder at  the top of  the  slope, to rest upon  the
crown of the stock; and then raise the rind of  the
stock'with the ivory wedge, forming the handle of
the budding knife; so  as to admit the scion  be-
tween that and  the wood  2 inches down; which
done, place  the scion  with the cut side next  the
wood, thrusting it  down far enough for the shoul-
der to  rest upon the top of the stock; and in this
manner may be put three,  four, five,  or more sci-
ons in one large stock or branch.  It is alleged as
•a disadvantage attending this  method in  exposed
situations, that the ingrafted shoots for two or three
years are liable to be blown out of the stock by vio-
lent winds:  the only  remedy for which is, tying
long rods to the body of the stock  or branch, and
tying up  each  scion  and its shoots to one of  the
rods.
                Side grafting.
  This method resembles  whip grafting, but dif-
fers in being performed on the side of the stock,
Avithout bending down.  It is practised  on wall
trees, to fill  up vacancies, and sometimes in order
to have  a variety of fruits upon  the same tree.
Having fixed  upon those  parts  of the branches
where Avood is wanting to furnish the head or any
part of the tree, then slope off the bark and a lit-
tle of the Avood, aud cut the lower end of  the sci-
ons to  fit the  part as  near as possible, then join
them to the  branch, and tie  them with bass, and
clay them over.
               Saddle grafting.
  This is performed  by first cutting the top of the
sto-;k into a  wedge-like form, andthei. splitting up
the end of the scion, and thinning off each half to
a tongue-shape; it is  then placed on  the wedge,
embracing it on each side, and the inner barks are
made to join on one side of the  stock, as  in cleft
grafting.  '1 his is a very strong and handsome mode
for  standard tree3, when grafted  at  the standard
height.   It is also desirable for orange-trees, and
ro9e-standurds, as it makes  a handsome  finish,
covering  a part of the stock,  which, by the other
methods, long remains a black scar, and sometimes
never becomes covered with bark.  The stocks/or
this purpose should not be much thicker  than the
scions, or two  scions  may be  inserted.
          Shoulder or chink grafting.
  This is performed with  a shoulder, and some-
times also with a  stay at the bottom  of the slope.
It is chiefly used for  ornamental trees, where  the
scion and  stock are oi the same size.
      2 M
j                 Root grafting.
   Root-grafting is sometimes performed in nurse-
| ries on parts of the roots of removed trees. When
 the proper  stocks are scarce; in which case, the
! root of the white thorn has been resorted to as a
i stock  both for the apple and pear.  In general,
 however, a piece of the root of the tree of the same
 genus is selected, well furnished Avith fibres, and
 a scion placed on it in any of the ordinary ways for
 small  stocks.  Thus  united,  they are planted so
 deep as to cover the ball of clay, and leave only a
 few eyes of the scion above ground.
   In a month after grafting, it may be ascertained
 whether the scion has united with the stock, by ob-
 serving the progress of its buds; but, in general, it
 is not safe to remove the clay for three  months
 or more, till  the  graft be completely cicatrized.
 The clay  may generally  be  taken off in July or
 August, and at the same time the ligatures loosen-
 ed where the scion seems to require more room to
 expand: a few weeks  afterwards,  Avhen  the part3
 have been thus partially inured to the air,  and when
 there is no danger of the  scion being blown off by
 winds, the whole of the ligatures may be  removed.
                To choose scions.
   Scions  are those shoots which, united  with the
 stock, form the graft.  They should be  gathered
 several weeks before the season for grafting arrives.
 It is desirable that the sap of the stock should be in
 brisk  motion  at the  time of grafting; but by this
 time the buds of the scion, if left on the parent tree,
 would be equally advanced,  whereas the  scions,
 being  gathered early, the  buds are  kept back,  and
 ready  only to swell out when  placed on the stock.
 Scions of pears, plums, and cherries, are collected
 in the end of January,  or  beginning of February.
 They are kept at full  length sunk in dry earth, and
 out of the reach of frost till wanted,  Avhich is some-
 times frbm the middle of Febqiary to the  middle
 of March.  Scions of apples are collected any time
 in February,  and put in from  the middle to the
 end of March.  In July  grafting,  the scions are
 used as gathered.
               To choose cuttings.
   In respect  to  the choice of cuttings,  those
 branches of trees and  shrubs which are thrown out
 nearest the ground, and especially such as recline,
 or nearly so, on the  earth's  surface, have  always
 the most  tendency to produce roots.  Even the
 branches of resinous trees,  which are extremely
 difficult to propagate by cuttings, when reclining on
 the ground, if accidentally, or otherwise, covered
 with earth in any part, will there throw out roots,
 and the extremity of  the lateral shoot will  assume
 the charactoi ofa main stem, as maybe sometimes
 seen in the larch, spruce,  and silver fir.
   The choice of cuttings then is to be made from
 the sid<>  shoots of plants, rather than from their
 summits or main stems, and the strength and health
 of side shoots being equal, those nearest the ground
I should be preferred.   The proper time for taking
 cuttings from the mother  plant is, when the sap is
 in full motion, in order that,  in returning by the
 bark,  it may form a callus or protruding ring of
 granular  substance between the  bark and wood,
 whence the roots proceed.  As this callus, or ring
 of spongy matter, is generally best formed in ri-
 pened  wood, the cutting, when taken from  the
I mother plant, should  contain a part of the  former
 year, or in plants which grow twice a year, of the
 wood of the former growth; or in the case of plants
 Avhich are continually growing, as most evergreen
 exotics, such wood as has begun to  ripen or as-
 sume  a brownish colour.   This is the true princi-
| pie of the choice of cuttings  a„ to time; but there
 are many sorts of trees, as willow, elder, he. the
I cuttings of which will grow  almost at any season, 
290
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 and especially if removed from the mother plant in
 winter, Avhen the sap is at rest.
  These ought  ahvays to be cut across, with the
 smoothest and soundest section  possible at an eye
 orjoint.   And as buds are in  a more advanced
 state in Avood somewhat ripened or fully formed,
 than  in  forming wood, this section ought to be
 made in  the wood of the growth of the  preceding
 season; or as it were in the point between the tAvo
 growths.  It is a common practice to cut off the
 Avhole or a part of the leaves of  cuttings, which is
 always attended with  bad  effects in evergreens, in
 which the leaves may be said to  supply nourish-
 ment to the cutting till it can sustain itself.  This
 is very obvious in the  case of striking from buds,
 which, without  a  leaf attached, speedily rot and
 die.   Leaves alone will even strike root, and from
 plants in some  instances, and  the same  may be
 stated  of certain flowers and  fruits.
                   Piping.
  This is a mode of propagation by cuttings, and
 is adopted with plants having  jointed  tubular
 stems, as the dianthus tribe;  and several of the
 grasses,  and  the  arundus may be propagated in
 this  manner.  When  the shoot has nearly done
 growing, its extremity is to be separated, at a part
 of the stem where it is nearly indurated, or ripen-
 ed.   This operation is effected by holding the root
 end between the finger and thumb of one hand, be-
low a pair of leaves, and with the other pulling the
top part above the pair of leaves, so as to separate
it from  the root part of the stem at  he socket,
formed by the axilla: of the leaves, leaving the stem
to remain with a tubular termination.   These pip-
ings are  inserted  without  any further preparation
 in finely  sifted earth, to the depth of the first joint
 or pipe.
               To insert cuttings.
  Cuttings, if inserted in a mere mass of earth,
 will hardly throw out  roots, while, if inserted at
 the sides of the pots, so as to touch the pot in their
 whole  length, they seldom fail  to  become rooted
 plants.   The art is to place them to touch the bot-
tom of the pot, they are  then to be plunged  in a
 bark or hot-bed,  and kept moist.
              To manage cuttings.
  No cutting requires to be planted deep, though
the large ought to be inserted deeper than such as
are small.  In the case of evergreens, the leaves
should be kept from touching the  soil,  otherwise
l.hey will damp or rot oft"; and in the case of tubu-
lar stalked plants, which are in  general not very
easily  struck, owing to the  water lodging in the i
tube, and rotting the cutting,  both ends may be ad-
vantageously inserted  in the  soil, and,  besides a ,
greater certainty of success, two plants will be pro- !
duced.  Too much light, air, water, heat, or cold,
are alike injurious.  To guard  against these ex-
 tremes in tender sorts, the means, hitherto devised,
is that of inclosing an atmosphere over the cuttings,
by means of a hand or bell-glass, according to their
delicacy.  This preserves a uniform stillness and
moisture of atmosphere.   Immersing the pot in
earth has a tendency to preserve a steady uniform i
degree of moisture  at  the roots; and shading, or j
planting the cuttings, if in the open air in a shady-
situation, prevents the bad  effects of excess of
light.  The only method of regulating the heat is
dv double or single coverings of" glass or mats, or
both.   A hand-glass placed over a bell-glass, will
preserve, in a shady situation, a very constant de-
gree of heat.
  What the degree of heat ought to be, is decided
 by the degree of heat requisite for the  mother
plant.  Most snecie j of the erica, dahlia,  and gera-
nium,  strike better when supplied  with  rather
more heat than is requisite tor the growth of these
 plants in green-houses.  The  myrtle tribe and
 camellas  require rather less; and in general a
 lesser portion of heat, and of every thing else pro-
 per for plants, in their rooted and growing state, is
 the safest.
        _' To sow seeds with advantage.
   This is the first operation of rearing.  Where
 seeds are deposited  singly,  as in rows of beans or
 large nuts,  they are said to be planted; Avhere
 dropt in numbers together, to be sown.  The ope-
 ration of sowing is  either  performed in drills,
 patches, or  broad-cast.  Drills  are  small  excava-
 tions  formed   with  the  draw-hoe,  generally in
 straight lines parallel to each other, and in depth
 and distance apart, varying according to the size of
 the seeds.   In these  drills, the  seeds are  strewed
 from the hand of the operator, who, taking a small
 quantity in the palm  of his hand and fingers, regu-
 lates its emission by  the thumb.   Some seeds are
 very thinly  soAvn, as the pea and spinage; other.;
 thick, as the cress and small salading.
   Patches are small circular  excavations  made
 with the trowel; in these, seeds are  either sown or
 planted, thicker or thinner, and covered more or
 less, according to their natures.  This is the mode
 adopted in sowing in pots, and generally in flower
 borders.
   In  broad-cast  soAving, the operator scatters the
 seed over a  considerable breadth of surface, pre-
 viously prepared by digging, or otherwise being
 minutely  pulverized.  The seed  is taken  up iu
 portions in the hand, and dispersed  by a horizon-
 tal movement of the arm, to the extent of a semi-
 circle, opening  the  hand at the  same  lime, and
 scattering the seeds in the air, so as they may fall,
 as equally as possible, over the breadth taken in by
 the sower at once, and which is generally 6 feet; that
 being the diameter of the circle in which his hand
 moves through half the circumference.  In sowing
 broad-cast on beds, and narrow strips or borders,
 the seeds  are  dispersed between the thumb and
 fingers by horizontal movements of the  hand in
 segments of smaller circles.
   Dry weather is essentially requisite for sowing,
 and more especially  for the  operation of covering
 in the seed, which in  broad-cast sowing is done
 by treading  or gently rolling the surface, and  then
 raking it; and  in drill-sowing,  by treading in the
 larger seeds, as peas, and covering  with the rake;
 smaller seeds, sown  in drills, are covered Avith the
 same implement, without treading.
            To plant shrubs and trees.
   Planting,  as applied to seeds, or seed-like roots,
as potatoes, bulbs, he. is most frequently perform-
ed  in drills, or in separate  holes made with the
dibbler; in these, the seed  or bulb  is dropt from
the hand,  and  covered  with or without treading,
according to its nature.  Sometimes  planting is
performed  in  patches,  as  in pots  or borders, in
which case, the trowel is the chief instrument used.
  Quincunx  is  a mode of planting in rows, by
which the plants in  the  one row are always oj>-
posed to the blanks in the other, so that  when  a
plot of ground  is planted in this way, the plants
appear in rows in four directions
  Planting, as  applied to plants already originated,
consists generally in  inserting them  in  the soil of
the same depth, and  in the same position  as they
were before  removal, but Avith various exceptions.
The principal  object is to preserve the fibrous
roots entire; to distribute them equally around the
stem among  the mould  or finer soil, and  to pre-
serve the plant upright.   The plant should not be
planted deeper than it  stood in the soil before re-
moval, and commonly the same side  should be kept
towards the  sun.  Planting should, as much as pos-
 sible,  be accompanied  by abundant watering, in 
HORTICULTURE.
-  291
wder to consolidate the soil about the roots; and
where the soil is dr}', or not a st.ff clay, it may be
performed in the beginning of wet weather, in gar-
dens; and in forest planting,  on dry soils, in  all
open weather during autumn, winter, and spring.
               To water gardens.
  Watering becomes requisite  in gardens for va-
rious purposes, as  aliment to plants in a growing
state, as support to newly transplanted plants, for
keening under insects, and keeping clean the leaves
of vegetables. One general rule must be ever kept
in mind during the employment of water in a gar-
den, that is, never to water the  top  or leaves of a
plant when the sun shines.   All Avatering should
be carried on in the evening or early in the  morn-
ing, unless it be confined to watering the roots, in
which  case,  transplanted plants, and others in a
growing state, may be  watered  at any time;  and if
they are shaded from the sun, they rr ay also be wa-
tered over their tops.   Watering over the tops is
performed with the rose, or dispenser  attached to
the spout of the watering-pot, or by the syringe or
engine.  Watering the roots is best done with the
rose: but in the case of watering pots in haste, and
where  the  earth is hardened, it is done  with the
naked  spout.  In new  laid turf, or lawns of a loose
porous soil, and too mossy surface, the water bar-
rel may be advantageously psed.
  Many kitchen crops are lost, or produced of very
inferior quality,  for want of watering.  Lettuces
and cabbages are often hard and stringy, turnips
and radishes do not swell, onions decay, caulifloAv-
ers die off, and, in  general, in  dry soils.  Copious
'waterings in the evenings, during the  dry season,
would  produce that fulness of succulency, which
are  found in the vegetables produced in the low-
countries, and in the Marsh Gardens at Paris; and
in this country at the beginning and  latter end of
the season.
  The Avatering the foliage of small trees, to pre-
vent the increase of insects, and of strawberries,
and fruit shrubs, to swell the fruit, is also of impor-
tance.
        To water tlie foliage of wall trees.
  Water is to be  supplied to the garden from a re-
servoir, situated on an eminence, a considerable
height aboAe the garden walls.   Around the Avhole
garden, four inches below the surface of the ground,
a groove, between two and three inches deep, has
been formed in the walls, to receive a three-quar-
ter inch pipe for  conducting the water.   About 50
feet distaut from each other, are apertures through
the  wall, 2£ feet high, and ten inches wide, in
which a cock is placeo, so that  on turning the han-
dle  to either side of  the wall,  the. water  issues
from that side.  The nozzles  of the  cocks have
screws on each side, to which is attached at plea-
sure a leathern pipe, with a brass cock and  direc-
tor; r^ses, pierced with holes  of different  sizes,
being fitted to the latter.  By this contrivance, all
the trees, both inside and outside the wall,  can be
most effectually  watered and  washed, in a very
short space  of time,  and with  very  little  trou-
ble.  One man  may  go over  the whole in two
hours.  At the same time the borders, and  eAen a
considerable part of the quarters, can be watered
with the greatest ease, when required.
                  To transplant.
   Transplanting  consists in removing propagated
plants, whether from seeds, cuttings, or grafts, ac-
cording to their kinds and other circumstances, to
a situation prepared to receive  them. Transplant-
ing, therefore, inA'olves three things; first, the pre-
paration of  tlie  soil,  to which the plant is to be
removed;  secondly, the removal  of the  plant;
thirdly, the insertion in the prepared soil.
   The preparation of the soil implies, in all eases,
stirring, loosening, mixing, and comminution: and,
in many cases, the addition of manure or compost,
according to the nature of the soil, and  plant to be
inserted, and accordingas the same may be in open
ground, or pots or hot-houses.
  The removal of the plant  is generally effected
by loosening the earth around it, and then drawing
it out of the soil with the hand; in all cases avoid-
ing as much  as  possible to break, or bruise, or
otherwise injure the roots.  In the case of small
seedling plants, merely inserting the  spade, and
raising the portion of earth in which they grow will
suffice; but in removing larger plants,"it is neces-
sary to dig a trench round the plant.
  In some cases, the plant may be lifted with a ball
of earth, containing all its roots,  by means of the
trowel;  and in others, as in large shrubs or trees,
it  may be necessary to cut the roots at a certain
distance from the plan', one year before removal,
in order to furnish them with young fibres, to enable
them to support the change.   In pots  less  care is
necessary, as the  roots and  ball of earth may be
preserved entire.
        To accelerate plants in hot-houses.
  There  are  tvvo leading modes of accelerating
plants in  these buildings; the first is by placing
them there  permanently, as  in  the case  of  the
peach, vine, he. planted  in the ground; and  the
second is  by having the plants in  pots, and intro-
ducing or withdrawing them  at pleasure.   As fai
as respects  trees, the longest crops, and with fai
less care,  are produced by the first method; but in
respect to herbaceous plants and  shrubs, whether
culinary,  as the  strawberry and kidney-bean,  or
ornamental, as the rose and the pink, the latter is
by far the most convenient method.   Where large
pots are used, the peach, cherry, fig, &c. will pro-
duce tolerable crops.  "Vines and  other fruit trees,
Avhen abundantly  supplied with Avater and manure
in a liquid state, require  but a very small quantity
of mould.
To protect vegetables from injuries by means of
                  straw ropes.
  This is effected by throwing the ropes in differ-
ent directions over the trees,  and sometimes  de-
positing their end's in pails of  water.  It has been
tried successfully on Avail-trees, and on potatoes and
other herbaceous vegetables.   As soon as the buds
of the trees hecome turgid, place poles against the
wall, in front of the trees, at from 4 to 6 feet asun-
der, thrusting their lower ends into the earth,
about a foot from the wall, and fastening them at
the  top with  a  strong  nail,  either to the Avail or
coping.  Then procure a quantity of straw or hay-
ropes, and  begin at the top  of one of the outer
poles,  making fast the  end, and  pass the rope
from pole to pole, taking a round turn upon each,
until the  end is  reached, when,  after securing it
well, begin about 18 inches below, and return  in
the  same  manner to the  other end,  and so on till
within two feet of  the ground.  Straw ropes have
also been found very* useful  in protecting other
early crops  from  the  effects of frost, as peas,
potatoes,  or kidney-beans, by fixing  them along
the rows Avith pins driven into the ground.
               The same by nets.
  The nets should be placed out at the distance of
15 or 18  inches from the tree, being kept off by
looped sticks, with their butts placed  against  the
wall, and  at a distance Of about a  yard  from each
other.' In order to make them  stand firmly,  the
net should be first stretched tightly on, and ba fast-
ened on  all  sides.  If the nets were  doubled or
trebled, and put  on in this way, they Avould be a
more effectual screen, as the mesnes or openings
would,  in that  case,  be  rendered very small
Woollen nets are  «Se2ied the beat, mid are now in 
292
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 general use in Scotland.  In screening Avith nets of
 any kind, they are always to be  left on  night and
 day, till all danger  be over.
          The same by canvass screens.
   This is effected either by placing moveable can-
 vass cases over or around detached  trees; portable
 hand-cases over herbaceous plants; tents or open
 sheds over the forests' productions; or frames  or
 sheets against trees trained on walls.  In all cases
 they should be placed clear of the tree or plant,
 either by extended, forked, or  hooked sticks, or
 any other obvious resource.
         'To reuse and manage fruit trees.
   In the removal or  transplantation of trees, gar-
 deners and nurserymen are generally very careless
 s«d iuattentive in taking them up, and care not how
 much the roots are  broken or lessened in number,
 provided they have enough  left  to  keep the tree
 alive;  the  consequence i.«, that   although  the
 branches left on remain alive, there is  so great a
 deficiency of sap, from the loss of  roots, that the
 vessels cannot be filled the following spring.
   The roots are broken or cut off at random, and
 generally diminished  more than one-half, or they
 are doubled back and distorted;  and, if there be
 enough left to keep the  plant alive, it is thought
 quite sufficient; and, by these  means, the appear-
 ance of blossoms and fruit being  prematurely pro-
 duced, those stinted and deformed plants are sold
 as half or full-trained trees for four times the price
 of others; and when sold, they are again taken up,
 and the roots treated  and diminished  in  the same
 careless manner.
   When the soil of a garden,  wherein fruit-trees
 are to be planted, is not  naturally  conformable or
 congenial to the first principle, it must be made so.
   The top of a wall  should be  so formed as  to
 throw off water; for otherwise it vill generally be
 damped, which renders the trees unhealthy; and,
 when the substance against Avliich the branches are
 fixed is dry, the temperature on all sides will be
 more equal.
   In preparing beds or borders, due attention must
 be paid  both to the soil and subsoil, as each equally
 affects the health and fruitfulness  of trves: and,
 principally,  as  it retains or discharges water,—
 stagnant water being; at all times particularly detri-
 mental to the fructiheation of trees.
  For peaches, nectarines, he. a border of 10 or
 12 feet wide will generally prove  sufficient.  In
cases where the soil has been too close and  reten-
tive, and the roots apt to groAV deep, on the sub-
stratum, lay-a stratum of six inches of the common
soil of the garden,  and then form  a  stratum  of
about six inches for the roots to run and repose in,
composed of two-third parts  of fine drift sand
(the scrapings of a public road, that has been made
or repaired with flints), and one-third part of rich
vegetable mould, well mixed together;  and the
better way to perform this is, first to lay on about
three inches of the composition, and on this place
tlie roots of the  plant, and  over  them spread the
other three inches; and cover the whole down with
from nine to twelve inches of the common soil of
the place.
  Where it  is not found necessary to form an arti-
ficial substratum, it will be sufficient to remove the
soil to the depth ot fifteen or eighteen inches, and
there form  the stratum of the roots, covering  it
down with a foot  or nine inches of the common
soil.
        General mode of planting trees.
  The operation of inserting plants in the soil is
performed in various ways; ihe most general mode
 recommended by Marshal and Nicol is pitting; in
 which two persons  are employed, one to operate
ou the soil with a spade, and the other  to  insert
 ; the plant, and hold it till the earth is put round it,
 i and then press down the soil with the foot.
 i   The pit having been dug for several months, the
 | surface will therefore be incrusted by the rakis or
 ' probably  covered  with  weeds.   The  man  first
 i strikes the spade downwards to the bottom 2 or 3
 j times, in order to loosen the soil, then poaches it,
 | as if mixing mortar for the builder: he next lifts
 I up a spadeful of the earth,  or,  if necessary, 2
 j.spndesful,  so  as to make room for all the  fibres,
 I withoHt their being anywise croAvded together he
  then chops the rotten turf remaining in the bottom,
  and  levels the whole.   Tin; boy now places the
  plant perfectly upright, an inch deeper than Avhen
  it stood in the nursery, and  holds il firm in  that
  position.  The man trinities iu the mould gently;
  the uoy gently moves the plant, not from side to
  side, but upAvards and  downwards, until the fibres
  be covered.   The man then fills in all the remain-
  ing mould; anil immediately proceeds to chop and
  poach the next pit, leaving the boy to set the plant
  upright, and to tread the mould  about it.  This,
 i in stiff, wet soil he does lightly; but in sandy or
  gravelly soil he continues to tread until the soil no
  longer retains the  impression of his foot.   The
  man has by this time got the pit ready for the  next
  plant, the  boy is also ready with it in his hand, and
  in this manner the operation goes on.
   One general rule, and one of considerable im-
  portance in transplanting, is to set the plant or tree
  no deeper in the ground than it  was originally—
  deep  planting  very often causes a decay,  if not
  sudden destruction.
            More expeditious method.
   The following mode has been practised for many
  years on the Duke of Montrose's estate in Scot-
  land:—The operator, with his spade, makes 3 cuts,
  12 or 15 inches long,  crossing each other in the
  centre, at an angle of 60 degrees, the  whole having
  the form of a star.  He inserts his  spade  across
  one of the rays, a feAV inches from the centre, and
  on the side next himself: then bending the handle
  towards himself,  and  almost to the ground, the
  earth opening in fissures from the centre in the di-
  rection of the  cuts  which had  been made, he, at
 the same  instant,  inserts his plant  at the point
  where  the spade intersected the ray, pushing it
  forward to the centre,  and  assisting  the  roots in
 rambling through the fissures.  He then lets down
  the earth by removing his spade, having pressed it
  into a compact state Avith his heel; the operation is
  finished by adding a little  earth, with the grass
  side  down,  completely covering the fissures, for
 the purpose of retaining  the moisture at ihe root;
 and likewise as a top-dressing, which greatly en-
 courages the plant to put fresh  roots between the
I swards.
         German method of forcing trees.
   Wilh a sharp knife make a cut in  the bark of
 the branch which  is meant to  be forced to near,
 and not far from the place Avhere it  is connected
 Avith the stem, or, if it is a small branch or  shoot,
 near where  it  is joined to the large bough—the
 cut is to go round the branch, or to encircle- it, and
 penetrate to the wood.   A quarter of an inch from
 this cut, make a second like the  first, round the
 branch, so that by  both  encircling the branch, a
 ring  is formed upon  the branch, a quarter of an
 inch broad, between the two cuts.  The bark be-
 tween these tAvo cuts is taken clean aAvay, Avith a
 knife, doAvn to the  avooiI, removing even' the  fine
 inner bark, Avhich immediately lies upon the wood,
 so that no connexion  whatever remains between
 the two parts of the bark, but the bare and naked
 wood appears white and smooth; but this bark ring,
 to compel  the tree to bear, must be  made at the
 time when the buds are strongly swelling or break- 
HORTICULTURE.
293
ing out into blossom.   In the  same year a callus
is formed at the edges of the ring, on both sides,
and the connexion of the bark (hat had been inter-
rupted is restored again, without any  detriment to
the tree, or the branch operated upon, in which the
artificial wound soon  again  grows  over.   IJy this
simple (though artificial)  means of forcing every
fruit-tree with certainty  to  bear,  the most im-
portant advantages will he obtained.
              To plant small fnuts.
  Currants and gooseberries are often planted in
lines, by I he side of the  walks or alleys of the
garden; but it is a better method to plant them in
quarters by themselves, and to make new planta-
tions every sixth or seventh year.
  Raspberries produce the finest fruit when young;
that is,  about the third or fourth year after plant-
ing, if properly managed.
  It is proper to  plant some of all the above fruits
on a  north border, or other shaded  situation, in
order to prolong the season of them,  if that be an
object, besides planting them out  in quarters, as
hinted above.
  From four to six feet square, according to the
quality of the soil, may be deemed a proper dis-
tance  at which to plant the above fruits; that is, in
good land, six feet; in middling  land, five; and in
poor land, four feet. Some may sdso very properly
be planted  against vacant places  on any  of the
Avails, pales, or espaliers.   Antwerp raspberries,
in p'-- -ticular, and some kinds of gooseberries, are
highly improved  in size and flavour,  if trained to
a south wall.
  The cranberry  is grown to most advantage in
bog-earth kept moist.  The margins  of ponds are
good situations for this  plant.
               To c."- tose plants.
  No better mode exists at present than having re-
course for  trees to ihe most  reputable nurseries;
and, with McPhail and Nicol, we would recom-
mend, instead of maiden plants, " to  make choice
of those not very young, but such  as  are healthy,
and have been transplanted several times, and beeti
in a slate of training for two  or  three years at
least."  A safe mode »», to plant partly ina'-den,
and partly trained plants, by which  means those
which come early into fruit, should they prove bad
sorts,  may be replaced by others.
              To manage orchards.
  The whole ground ot an orchard should be dug
in the autumn, and laid up in a rough state for the
winter, giving it as much surface as possible in or-
der that the weather may fully act upon and melio-
rate the soil; thus following  it  as far as  the case
will admit.  Observe to dig carefully near to the
trees, and.so as not to hurt their roots and fibres.
If the soil b3 shallow; and if these lie near to the
surface, it  would be advisable to dig  with a fork,
instead of the spade.
  Crop to within two feet of the trees the first
year; a yard the  second; four feet the  third, and so
on, until finally  relinquished;  which, of course,
would be  against the  e'ghth year, provided the
trees  were planted at 30 or 40 feet apart, with early
bearing sorts between.  By this time, if the kinds
have been  well chosen, the temporary trees will be
iu full  bearing,  and  will forthwith  defray every
necessary expense.
  Let a small basin or hollow be made roond the
stem  of each tree, a foot or 18 inches in diameter,
and 2 or 3 inches deep, according to the  extent of
its roots.   Fill this basin  with littery dung, to the
thickness of five or six inches, over which sprinkle
a little earth, just enough to keep it from being
blown  about.   This  both  nourishes the  young
fibres, aud keeps the ground about them  moist iu
hoi weather, if welted freely once a week.
      To clothe the stems of standard-trees.
  This is  done by an envelope of moss, or short
grass, or litter wound round vvitit shreds of mat-
ting, is of great use the first year after planting, to
keep "-he bark moist, and thereby aid the ascent and
circulation  of the sap in  the  alburnum.   Thift
operation  should be performed at  or soon after
planting, and the clothing  may be left on till, by
decay, it drops off of itself;  it is of singular service
in very late planting; or,  when from  unforeseen
circumstances,  summer-planting  becomes  requi-
site.
            To prune orchard trees.
  The object in pruning young trees, is to form a
proper head.  The shoots  may be prunei* in pro-
portion to  their  lengths, cutting clean away such
as cross one another, and fanning the tree out
tOAvards the extremities on all sides; thereby keep-
ing it equally poised, and fit to resist the effects of
high Avinds.  When it is wished to throw a young
tree into a bearing state,  Avhich should  not  be
thought of, however,  sooner than   he third   or
fourth  year after, planting, the leading branches
should be very litlle  shortened, and  the lower or
side branchesnot at  all,  nor should the knife be
used,  unless to cut out such shoots as cross one
another.
  The season for pruning  orchards is generally
winter or early  in spring.   A weak  tree ought to
be pruned  directly at the fall of the  leaf.  To
prune in autumn strengthens a plant, and will bring
the blossom buds more forward; to cut the wood
late in spring tends to check a plant, and is one of
the remedies for excessive luxuriance.
           To recover deformed trees.
  Where a tree is stinteu, or tlie  head ill shaped,
from being originally badly pruned, or barren from
having  overborne itself, or from  constitutional
weakness, the most expeditious remedy is to head
down  the plant within  three, four, or five eyes  (or
inches, if an old tree) of the top  of  the stem,  in
order to furnish it with a new head. The recovery
of a languishing tree, if not too old, will be further
promoted by taking it up  at the same time, and
pruning the roots: for as, on the one  hand, the de-
priving of  too luxuriant a tree of part even of its
sound, healthy roots, will moderate its vigour; so,
on the other, to relieve a stinted or  sickly tree  of
cankered or decayed roots,  to prune the extremi-
ties of sound roots, and especially to shorten  the
dangling tap-roots of a plant,  affected  by a bad
sub-soil, is, in connexion with  heading down,  or
very short  pruning, and the renovation of the soil,
and draining, if necessary, of the sub-soil,  the
most availing remedy that can be tried.
        To cure diseases of orchard-trees.
  A tree often  becomes  stinted from an accumu-
lation of moss,  which affects the  functions of the
bark,  and renders the  tree unfruitful.   This evil
is to be removed by scraping the stem aud branches
of old trees with  the scraper; and on young trees
a hard brush will effect the purpose.  Aberciom-
bie and Nicol  recommend the finishing of ibis
operation by washing with  soap-suds, or a medi-
cated  a» .sh of some of the different sorts tor de-
stroying the eggs of insects.
  Wherever the  bark is  decayed  or cracked, it
ought to be removed.
  The other diseases to  which orchard trees are
subject are c.'iiefly the canker,  gum, mildew, and
blight, which are rather to be prevented by such
culture as  will  induce a  healthy state, than to  be
remedied by topical applications.  Too much lime
may bring  on the canker, and if so,  the replacing
a part of such soil with alluvial, or vegetable earth,
Avould be oi' service.
  The "um may be constitutional, arising from of-
       0                       •     Z 2 
294
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 fensive matter in the  soil, or local, arising  from i
 external injury.   In the former case, improve the
 soil; in the latter, emplo)' the knife.
   The mildew  may be eas.ly subdued  at  its first
 appearance, by scattering flour of sulphur unon the
 infected parts.
   For the blight  and caterpillars, Forsyth recom-
 mends burning of rotton  wood,  weeds,  potatoe- !
 haulm,  with straAv, he. on the windward side of !
 the trees, when they are in blossom.  He also re- '
 commends  washing the stems and branches of all
 orchard trees, with a mixture of '• fresh coav  dung
 with wiue and soap-suds,"asa white washer would
 wash  the ceiling or walls of a  room.  The pro-
 mised idvantages are, the destruction of insects, [
 and fine bark, more especially  Avhen it. is found
 necessary to take  off all the outer  bark.
 To preserve apple, cherry, and plum-trees from j
          frost, as practised in Russia.
   The severity of the  winters at  St  Petersburgh I
 is so great that few fruit-trees will survive it,  even j
 Avith careful matting; to prevent  the  loss which is j
 thus  usually sustained, the  following  mode  of j
 training has been attended Avith  complete success, j
 It consists in leading the branches of the trees on I
 horizontal trellises only ten ortAvelve inches  from J
 the ground.  When the  winter  sets in, there are |
 heavy falls of snow, and as the frost increases, the |
 snow generally augments, by which  the  trees are j
 entirely buried, and receive  no injury  from the
 most intense frost.
   Another very great advantage of training  trees ■
 in the above method consists in  the growth of the
 wood, it being of equal strength, and the fruit pro-
 duced  being all alike, the blooms  come out much
 earlier, and  the.crop ripens sooner.  The  trees j
 are always clean,  and free from  insects.
   The only  cherry that does not succeed in that way
 is the  black heart; this is attributed to the  damps
 which affeet the early blossoms, but in  a milder
 climate this injury vvould be  obviated by placing
 the trellis higher from the ground.  When the
 trellis decays under the apples, it  is  never renew-
 ed, as  the trees keep always (from the strength of
 their branches) their horizontal  position.
   There are other advantages  of treating fruit-
 trees in this manner; they come sooner  into bear-
 ing, and their fruit is not affected by high winds.
 The apples are never gathered,  but suffered  lo
 drop off, for the distance they fall  is not sufficient
 to bruise them.
        To preserve and pack roots, &c.
  Roots,  cuttings, grafts,  and  perennial plants
 in general, are preserved, till wanted, in earth or
 moss, moderately moist, and shaded from the sun.
 The same principle is followed  in packing them
 to be sent to a distance.  The roots,  or root  ends
 of the  plants, or cuttings, are enveloped in balls of
 day or loam, wrapped round with  moist moss,
 mid air  is  admitted  to  the tops.  In this  way
 orange-trees are sent from Genoa to any part of
 Europe and North America in perfect preservation;
 and cuttings of plants sent to any distance which
 can be accomplished  in eight  months, or  even
 longer with some kinds.   Scions  of the apr-'e, pear,
 ha. if enveloped in clay, and  wrapt up in moss or
 straw,  and ttien placed  in a portable  ice-house,  so
 ks to  prevent a  greater heat than Si deg. from
 penetrating  to them, would keep  for a year, and
 might  thus be sent from England to  China.   The
 buds of fruit-trees may be preserved  in a vegetat-
 ing state, and sent to a considerable  distance, by
 reducing the leaf-stalks to a short length, and en-
closing the shoot in a double fold of cabbage-leaf,
bound  close  together at each end, and then enclo-
sing the package in a letter.  It  is of adA'antage to
place the under surface of the cabbage-leaf inwards,
  by which the enclosed branch is supplied with hiv
  mitlity, that being the perspirating surface of the
  leaf,  the other surface being nearly or wholly im-
  pervious to moisture.
          Skreen for protecting wall tree.
    It consists of two deal poles, on Avhich is nailed
  thin canvass, previously dipped in a tanner's bark
  pit, to prevent  its being mildewed when rolled up
  Avet.  At the top the ends of the polls fit into dou-
  ble iron loops, projecting a  few inches  from the
  wall, immediately under the coping; and  at the
  bottom they are fixed, by a hole at the end of each
  pole, upon a forked iron coupling, which projects
  about 14 inches from  the wall, thereby giving the
  skreen a sufficient inclination to clear the branches.
  When it is wished  to  uncover the trees, one of
  the poles is disengaged, and rolled back to tlie side
  of the other, Avhere it is fastened as before.   The
  most  violent winds have no injurious effect upon
  shades of this  kind; a wall is  very expeditiously
  covered and uncovered, and there is  not any dan-
  ger of damaging the blossoms in using them; they
  occupy very little  space when rolled up, are not
  liable to be out of order; and, although rather ex-
  pensive at first, seem  to be very durable.  From
  the facility with which the skreen is put up, it may
  be beneficially  used in the seasons  when fruit ri-
  pens, to secure  a succession, by retarding the crop
  of any particular tree.
   The lower ends of the poles are advantageously
  retained in  their  place, by means of a small  iron
  spring key,  attached  to the coupling by a  short
  chain.
           To protect fruits from insects.
   Some species, as w'asps, flies, &c. are prevented
  from  attacking  ripe fruits by gauze or nets,  or by
  inclosing the fruit, as  grapes, in  bags.
   The blossoms of the ho) a carnosa drives wasps
  from  grapes, in hot-houses; and the  fruit  of the
  common yew-tree, the same in open air.
                To manage pinery.
   The culture of Pine apples (says Nicol) is attend-
  ed with a heavier expense than that of any other
  fruit under glass, especially if  they be grown in
  lofty  stoves: but, independent of this, pine-apples
  may certainly be  produced in as great perfection,
  if not greater, and  vvith infinitely less trouble and
  risk,  in fluid pits, if properly constructed, than in
  any other Avay.
   The pinery should therefore be  detached from
  the other forcing-houses, and consists of three pits
  in a range; one  for crowns and suckers, one for suc-
  cession, and one for fruiting plants.  The fruiting
  pit to be placed in the centre, and  the other two,
  right and left, forming a range of 100 feet in length,
  which would give pine-apples enough for a large
  family.
   The fruiting-pit to be 40 feet long, and lOAvide,
  over walls; and each of the others to be 30 feet
  long,  and nine  feet wide also over walls.   The
  breast-wall of the Avhole to be on a line, and to be
  18 inches  above ground.   The  back-wall of  the
  centre one to be five feet, and of the others, to be
 4^ feet higher than the front.  The front and end
 flues to be separated from the bark bed by a  three
  inch cavity, and the back flues to be raised above
  its level.
   The furnaces may either be placed in  front, or
 at the back, according to conveniency; but the
  strength of the  heat should be first exhausted in
 front, and should  return in the  back flues.   The
  fruiting-pit would require  two small furnaces, in
  order to diffuse the heat regularly, and keep  up a
  proper temperature in winter; one to be placed at
  each end; and either to play, first in front, and re-
|  turn in the back; but the flues to be above, and not
|  alongside of one another.   The  under  one to be 
HORTICULTURE.
29S
 considered merely as an auxiliary flue, as it would
 only be wanted occasionally.   None of these flues
 need be more than five or six inches wide, and nine
 or ten deep. Nor need the furnaces be so large, by
 a third or a fourth part, as those for large forcing
 houses; because there should  be proper oil-cloth
 covers for the whole, as guards against severe wea-
 ther, Avhich would be a great saving of fuel.  The
 depth of the pits should be regulated so as that the
 average depth of the bark-beds may be a yard be-
 low the level of the front flues, as to that level the
 bark will generally settle, although made as high
 as their surfaces, when new stirrred up. If leaves,
 or a mixture of  leaves  with  dung, are to be used
 instettvi of bark, the pits will require to be a foot,
 or half a ]^rd deeper.
        General mode  of cultivating the pine.
   The culture of this plant generally commences
 in a common hot-bed frame,  heated  by dung; at
 the end of six or  nine months, it is removed to a
 larger  framed hot-bed, or pit, generally called  a
 succession bed; and after remaining here from 3 to
 12 months, it is removed to its final destination,
 the fruiting-bed.  Here it shows its fruit, continues
 in a growing state during  a period of from 6 to
 12 months, according to the variety grown,  mode
 of culture, &c. and finally ripens its fruit and dies,
 leaving  the crown or terminal shoot of the  fruit,
 and one or more  suckers or side-shoots as succes-
 sors.   The production  of a  single  pine-apple,
 therefore, requires a course of exotic culture, vary-
 ing from 18 months to 3 years.
                      Soil.
   The pine-apple plant will  grow in any sort of
• rich earth taken from a quarter of the kitchen gar-
 den,  or in fresh sandy loam taken from a common
 long pastured with sheep, he.  If the earth be not
 of a rich, sandy quality, of darkish colour, it should
 he mixed well with some perfectly rotten dung and
 sand, and if a little vegetable  mould is put among
 it, it will do it good, and also a little soot. Though
 pine-plants will  grow in  earth of the strongest
 texture, yet they grow most freely in good sandy
 loam not ofa binding quality.
                      Heat.
   Pines do not require so strong a bottom-heat as
 many keep them in; yet there  is  something in a
 mild tan-heat,  so congenial to their natures, that
 they  thrive much better in  pots plunged in a bark
 bed,  if properly managed, than when  planted  out
 on a  bed of earth that is healed, and often scorched
 by under flues.   The tan or bark-pits are therefore
 essential to the pinery.  Bark-pits are  filled with
 tan which  has  previously undergone a course of
 draining and SAveating.  The  heat  thus produced
 will last from 3 to 6 months, when it is sifted and
 again put in a state of fermentation, by replacing
 the deficiency occasioned by decay, and a separa-
 tion of the dust by sifting with new tan.  In this
 way the bark-bed is obliged to be stirred, turned,
 refreshed, or even renewed, several times a year,
 so as to produce and  retain  at  all times a bottom-
 heat of from 75 to 85 degrees in each of the  three
 departments of pine culture.
             Propagation of the pine.
   The pine is generally propagated by crowns and
 suckers,  though,  in common with every  other
 plant, it may be propagated by seed.
         'To separate  crowns and suckers.
   When the fruit is served at table, the crown is to
 be detached by a gentle twist,  and returned to  the
 gardener, if it be wanted  for a new plant.   Fruit
 stalk  suckers  are taken  off at the same period.
 Suckers at the base of the herb are commonly  fit
 for separation when the fruit is mature; though, if
 the stool  be vigorous, they may be left on for  a
 month  after the  fruit is cut,  the stool receiving
plentiful Aiaterings on their account.  The  fitness
ofa sucker to be removed, is indicated, at the lower
part of the leaves by a brownish tint; on the ap-
pearance of which, if the lower leaf be broken off",
ihe sucker is easily displanted by the thumb.
  If the old fruiting-plant offers only small bottom
suckers, or fails  to furnish any, good suckers may
be thus brought out:—having waited till the fruit
is cut, take the old plant in its pot out of the bark-
bed: strip off the under leaves near the root, and
with the knife cutaway the leaves to 6 inches from
the bottom.  Take out  some of the stale  mould
from the pot, fill up with fresh, and give a little
water.  Plunge the old plant into a bed with a good
growing heat.  Let the routine culture not be neg-
lected, and the old plants will soon send out good
suckers:  allow these to groAv till they are 4 inches
long or more; and on the signs of fitness detach them.
  As soon as either crowns or suckers are detach-
ed, twist off some of the leaves about the base; Che
vacancy thus made at the bottom of the stem is to
favour  the emission  of roots.   Pare the  stump
smooth;  then  lay the  intended  plants on a shelf
in a shaded part of the stoA'eor of any dry apartment.
Let crowns and fruit off-sets lie  till the part  that
adhered to the fruit is perfectly healed; and  root
suckers in the same manner till the part which was
united  to the  old stock is become dry and firm.
They will be fit to plant in five or six days.
           • Treatment of the plants.
  Keep the  plants groAving gently, and have the
pots, in general, completely filled with the roots
by the  time at which it is intended to excite them
into blossom.  From  the  middle  of February to
the 1st of March is a good time to  have the main
crop in  floAver;  as  the prospective season is the
finest.   About a  month before it is expected to see
fruit, dress the plants by taking away 2 inches  in
depth from the top of the mould.   Twist off some
of the lower leaves.   Fill up with fresh compost,
round  the stem, to  the remaining leaves.   The
bark-bed  should be revived at. the same time,  so
as  to  make  it lively:  but no new tan should  be
added, till the  time for the fullest heat arrives.  If
it is desired to ripen eminently large fruit, destroy
the suckers as they spring, by tAvisting out their
hearts with an  iron sharp pointed instrument form-
ed for the purpose.   Apply this to the heart of the
sucker; and, turning it round, bring the heart away.
on the other hand, when the multiplication of the
stock is a principal object,  the suckers must not  be
extirpated.  A yet further advantage may be given
to  the  swelling of the fruit, by having a few of the
lower leaves of the p'ant taken off, and by putting a
rim of tin, or any thing else in the form of a hoop,
round  the top of the pot,  sufficient to raise the
mould  3  or 4 inches.   The mould should be of the
best quality, aod constantly k^t in a moderate
moist state: this  may be done by "having the surface
kept covered with moistened moss.  The roots of
the pine plant, especially those produced from the
part of the stem  just under the  leaves, Avill the»
make a surprising progress, and the  fruit will  be
greatly benefited by this expedient.
                To cut ripe pines.
   The indications of maturity are a diffusive fra-
grauce, accompanied by cl. .nge in the colour of
the fruit; most  sorts  becoming yellow, or straAv
colour;  others dark  green, or yellowish  tinged
with green. Cut  pine-apples before they are dead-
ripe, or the spirit of the flavour will be dissipated.
Bring away with the fruit above 5 inches of stalk,
and'leave the crown adhering to the top.  If pine-
apples  be not cut soon after they begin to  colour,
they fall greatly off in flavour and richness, and that
sharp luscious taste,  so much admired, becomes
insipid. 
RECEIPT LOOK.
 296                           UNIVERSAL I

           To destroy insects in pines.
  If the plants by proper culture be kept healthy
 and  vigorous, insects will not annoy,  but leave
 them.   The coccus hesperides seems to delight in
 disease and decay, as flies do in carrion. The folloAv-
 ing recipe may safely be applied to pine-apples in
 any  state, but certainly, best to crowns and  suck-
 ers,  at striking them in August:  to others it may,
 at any rate, be used in the March shifting, when
 they are shaken out of their pots:
  Take of soft soap, 1 pound; flowers of sulphur,
 1 pound; tobacco, half a pound; mix vomica, 1 oz.;
 soft Avater, 4 gallons; boil all these together till the
 liquor  is  reduced to 3 gallons, and set it  aside to
 cool.  In this liquor immerse the whole plant, after
 the  roots and  leaves are  trimmed  for  potting.
 Plants  in any other state, placed in the  bark-bed,
 may safely be watered over head with the liquor
 reduced in strength by the addition ofa  third part
 of Avater.  As the bug harbours most in the angles
 of the leaves, there  is the better chance that the me-
 dicated water will be effectual, because it  will there
 remain the longest, and there its sediment Avill set-
 tle.  The above is a remedy  for every species of
 the coccus; and for most insects, on account of its
 strength and glutinous nature.  Its application will
 make the plants look dirty; therefore, as soon as the
 intended effects may be supposed to have  followed,
whatever remains of the liquor on the leaves should
be washed off with clean water.   It would be  im-
proper to pour a decoction charged with such of-
fensive materials, over fruiting plants.
                Other methods.
  Turn the plants out of the pots, and clean the
roots; then keep them immersed for  24 hours in
water in  which tobacco  stalks have been infused:
the bugs are then to he rubbed oft"  with  a  sponge,
and plants, after being Avashed in clean  water and
dipped, are to be repotted.
  In the " Caledonian Horticultural Transactions,"
a similar mode is described, only in the place of to-
bacco-juice, flowers of sulphur  are directf il to be
mixed  Avith  the  Avater.  With a bit  of  bass-mat,
fixed on a small stick, and dipt in water, displace
as many of the insects as can  be seen.   Then  im-
 merse the plants in a tub of water, containing about
 1 lb. of flowers of sulphur to  each garden potful.
Let them  remain  covered  in  the water  24 hours,
then lay ihem with their tops downwards to dry,
arid re-pot them in the usual manner.
  The experience of Hay, one of the best practi-
cal gardeners in Scotland, leads him  to  conclude,
 that even moderate moisture is destructive to these
insects.   For many  years,  h" regularly watered
his pine plants over head wilh the squirt, during
the summer  months: this was  done only in the
 evening:  it never injured the  plants;  and the bug
 never appeared u,/on them.
               Tb plant vines.
  Vines  are commonly either trained against the
 back wall, or on a trellis under the glass roof.  In
 the former case, the plants are always placed inside
the house: but in the latter, there are two opinions
 among practical men, one in  favour of planting
 them outside, and  the  other inside the  parapet
 wall.
  Abercrombie says, "Let  them be  carefully
 turned out of the p^ts, reducing the  balls a little,
 and  singling  out the malted roots.  Then place
 them in the pits, just as deep in the earth as they
 were before, carefully spreading out the fibres, and
 filling in with fine sifted earth, or with vegetable
 mould.  Settle all with a little water;  and let them
 have plenty of free air every day, defending them
 from very severe frost or rruch wet;  which  is all
the care they will require  till they begin to push
 young shoots.
,                Composts for vines.
   The following are the materials and proportions
 of a gootl compost, recommended by Abercrom-
 bie:—Of top-spit sandy loam, from an upland pas-
 ture, one-third p-irt; unexhausted brown loam from
 a garden, one-fourth part; scrapings of roads, free
 from clay, and repaired  with gravel or slate, one-
 sixth part;  vegetable mould, or old tan reduced to
 earth, or rotten stable-dung, one-eighth part; shell
 marl or mild lime,one-twelfth part.  The borders
 to be from 3 to 5 feet in depth, and, where practi-
 cable,  not  less than 4 feet wide in surface within
 the house,  communicating with a border  outside
 the building, of not less than  ten feet wide.
               To choose the plants.
   Vines are to be had in the nurseries, propagated
 either from layers, cuttings, or eyes; and*provided
 the plants be well rooted, and the Avood  ripe, it is
 a matter of indifference from which class the choice
 is made.
    Speedy mode of storing a new grape  house.
   This mode is only to be adopted  where a vinery
 previously exists in the garden, or  where  there is
 a friend's vinery in the neighbourhood.
   In the  end of June or beginning of July,  when
 the vines have made new shoots from 10 to 12 feet
 long, and about the time of the fruit setting, select
 any supernumerary shoots, and loosening  them
 from the trellis,bend them down.so as to make them
 form a double or flexure in a  pot filled with earth,
 generally a mixture of loam and vegetable mould;
 taking care to make a portion of last  year's Avood,
 containing a joint, pass  into  the soil in  the pot.
 The earth is kept in a Avet state: and, at the same
 time, a moist warm air is  .maintained in the house.
 In about  ten days, roots are found to have proceed-
 ed plentifully from the joint  of last year's wood,
 and these may be seen by  merely stirring  the sur-
 face of the  earth;  or sometimes they may be  ob-
 served penetrating to its surface.  The layer may
 now be safely detached, very frequently it contains
 one or two  bunches of grapes, which continue lo
 grow and come to perfection.  A layer,  cut  off in
 the beginning  of July,  generally attains, by  the
 end of October, the length of 15  or 20 feet.  A
 new grape-house, therefore, might in this way be
 as  completely  furnisheil  with plants  in  three
 months, as  by the usual  method, above described,
 in three years.
                  Another mode.
   A mode of more general utility than the forego-
 ing,  is to  select the plants in the  nursery a year
 before wanted, and to order them to be pottecl in-
 to very large pots, baskets, or tubs, filled wilh tlie
 richest earth, and plunged into a tan bed.   They
 will thus make shoots,  which, the first year after
 removal to  the.r final destination,  will, under or-
 dinary circumstances, produce fruit.
             To prune and train vines.
   The methods of pruning established vines  ad-
 mit of much diversity,  as the  plants are in differ-
 ent situations.   Without reckoning the cutting
 down of young or weak plants alternately,  to the
 lowermost summer shoot, which is but a tempora-
 ry course, three different systems  of pruning are
 adopted.
   The first is applicable only to vines out of doors;
 but it  maybe  transferred to plants in  a vinery,
 without  any capital alteration.  In  this  method,
 Oiie perpendicular leader is trained from the stern,
 at the side of which,  to the right and  left, the
 ramifications spring.  Soon after the growing  sea-
 son  has  commenced,  such rising shoots, as are
 either iu fruit or fit to be  retained, or are eligibly
 placed for mother-bearers next season, are laid in,
 either horizontally, or with a slight diagonal rise,
 ac something less than a foot distance, measuring 
HORTICULTURE.
291
from  one bearing shoot to the next: the rising
shoots,  intended  to  form young wood, should be
taken as  near the origin of the branch as a good
one offers, to allow of cutting  away, beyond the
adopted lateral, a greater quantity of the branch,
as il becomes old Avood; the new-sprung laterals,
not wanted for one of these tAvo objects, are pinch-
ed off.  The treatment of those retained, during
the rest of the summer, thus differs:—As t.ie shoots
in bearing extend in growth, they are kept stopped
about two eyes beyond  the fruit:—the coronate
shoots, cultivated merely to enlarge  the provision
of wood,  are divested of embryo bunches, if they
sIioav any; but are trained at full length as they ad-
vance during the summer,  until they reach the al-
lotted hounds.   In the winter-pruning,  there will
thus  be a good  choice of  mother-bearers.  That
nearest the origin  of the  former is retained, and
the others on the same branch are cut  away: the
rest of the branch is also taken off,  so that the old
wood may terminate with the adopted lateral: the
adopted shoot is then shortened to two, three, four,
or more  eyes,  according to its place on the vine,
its own strength, or the strength of  the vine. The
lower shoots are pruned in the shortest, in order
to keep the means of always supplying young wood
at the bottom of the tree.
                 Second method.
   The second method is to head the neural leader,
 so as to cause it to throiv out two, three or more
 principal shoots; these  are  trained as leading
 branches; and  in the winter-pruning are not re-
 duced, unless to shape them to the limits of the
 house, or unless the  plant appears too weak to sus-
 tain them at length.  Laterals from these are cul-
 tivated about twelve inches apart, as mother-bear-
 ers; those in fruit are stopped  in summer, and af-
 ter the fall of the leaf are cut into one or two eyes.
 From the i.ppearance of the mother-bearers, thus
 shortened, this is called spur-pruning.
                  Thir^ method.
   The third plan seems to  flow from  taking the
 second as a foundation,  in having more than one
 aspiring leader;  and from joining the superstruc-
 ture of the first system immediately to this, in  re-
 serving well-placed shoots to come in  as bearing
 wood.   Thus, supposing a stem, Avhich has been
 headed, to send  up four vigorous competing lead-
 ers, two  are suffered to bear fruit, and two are di-
 vested of such  buds  as break into clusters, and
 trained to the length  of 10, 12, 15  feet, or more,
 for mother-bearers, which have borne a crop,  are
 cut down to within  two eyes of the stool or legs,
 according to the strength  of the plant; while  the
 reserved shoots lose no more of their tops than is
 necessary to adjust  them to the trellis.
           To prune vines to advantage.
   In pruning vines, leave some new branches every
 year, and  take away (if too  many) some of the
 old, which will be of great advantage  to the tree,
 and  much  increase the quantity of fruit.  When
 you trim your vine, leave two knots, and cut them
 off the next time; for usually the two buds yield a
 bunch of grapes.   Vines, thus pruned, have been
 known  to bear  abundantly,  whereas others, that
 have been cut. close to please the   eye, have been
 almost barren of fruit.
   To mature grapes by incision of the vine bark.
    It is not of much consequence in what  part of
 the tree the incision is made; but in case the *runk
 is very large,  the circles  ought to be made in the
 smaller  branches.   All shoots, which come oul
 from the root of the vine, or from the front of the
 trunk, situated below the incision, must be remov-
 ed as often as they  appear, unless beai.ng wood is
 particularly wanted to fill up the lower part of the
 wall  in which case one or two shoots may be  left,
          2 N
  Vines growing in forcing houses are equally im-
proved in point of size and floAver, as Avell as made
to ripen earlier, by taking away circles  of bark
The time  for doing this is when the fruit is  set,
and the berries are about the size  of small shot.
The removed circles may here be made wider than
on vines  growing  in the open air, as the bark is
sooner renewed in forcing houses,  owing to the
Avarmth and  moisture in  those  places.   Half an
inch will not be too great  a width to take off in a
circle from a vigorous groAving vine; but I do not
recommend the operation to be performed at all in
weak trees.
  This practice nay be extended to other fruits,
so as to hasten their  maturity, especially figs, m
which there is a most abundant iioAV of  returning
sap; and  it  demonstrates to us, why old trees are
more disposed to bear fruit than young ones.  Mil-
ler informs us, that vineyards in Italy are thought
to improve every year by age, till they are 50 years
old.  For as trees become old, the returning ves-
sel do not convey the sap into the roots Avith the
same facility they did when young.   Thus, by oc-
casionally removing circles of bark, we only antici-
pate the process ot nature.  In both  cases, a sa-
nation of the  true sap is  obtained in the fruiting
branches, and the redundant nutriment then passes
into the fruit.
   It often happens after the circle of bark has been
removed, a small portion of the inner bark adheres
to the alburnum.  It  is of the utmost importance
to remove this, though  ever  so  small, otherwise,
in a very short space  of time, the communication
 is again established with the roots, and little or no
 effect produced.  Therefore in about ten days aftei
the first operation has been performed, look  at the
 part from whence the bark was removed, and sepa-
 rate any small portion which may have escaped the
 knife  the first time.
      To prevent the dropping off of grapes.
   Make a  circular incision in the wood, cutting
 away  a ring of bark, about  the breadth of the
 12th of an inch.  The wood acquires greater size
 about the incision, and the operation accelerates
 the maturity of the  wood,  and that of the  fruit
 likewise.   The  incision  should not be  made too
 deep, and  further than the bark, or it will spoil
 both in the wood and the fruit.
                To retard the sap.
   At certain periods, preventing or retarding the
 mounting of the sap, tends  to produce and ripen
 the fruit.  An abundance of sap is found  to increase
 the leaf buds and decrease the flower buds. A pro-
 cess to retard  sap  has long been employed in the
 gardens of Montreuil.   The  practice is to divari-
 cate the sap as near the root as may be, by cutting
 off the main stem, and training tAvo lateral branch-
 es, from  Avhich the  wall is to be filled.—Another
 process of interrupting the  rising of the sap, by
 separating the bark, has been long in  practice  in
 vine-forcing houses; this is done when the grapes
 are full grown, and is found to assist the .bark  in
 diminishing the aqueous, and increasing the sac-
 charine juice.
            To destroy insects in vines.
    The red  spider is the grand  enemy to the vine;
  after every winter's pruning and removal of the
  outward  rind on the old wood, anoint the branches,
  shoots and trellis, with the following composition,
  the object of which is the destruction of their eggs
  or larvae:—
    Soft soap, 2 lbs. flour of sulphur, 2 lbs. leaf  of
  roll tobacco,  2  lbs.  mix vomica, 4 oz. turpentine,
  1  English gill.
    Boil the above in  8 English gallous of soft river
  Avater, till it is reduced to six.
    Lay on this  composition, milk war.n, with a 
RECEIPT BOOK.
298                           UNIVERSAL  I

painter's brush: then with a sponge carefully anoint
every branch, shoot, and bud; being sure to rub it
well into  every joint, hole, and  angle.   If the
house is much infected, the walls, flues, rafters,
&c. are also to be painted over with ihe  same
liquor.  Watering over the leaves and fruit at all
times, except the ripening season, is the preventive
recommended, and Avhich all gardeners approve.
         To protect grapes from wasps.
  Plant near the grapes some  yew-trees, and the
wasps will so far prefer the yew-tree  berries,  as
wholly to neglect the grapes.
  To take off superfluous suckers from shnibs.
  Many flowering shrubs put ort strong suckers
from the root, such as lilacs, syringa, and some of
the kinds of roses, which  take greatly from the
strength of the mother plant, and  Avhich, if not
wanted for the purpose of planting the following
season,  should  be  twisted  off, or  otherwise de-
stroyed.
          To renovate old apple trees.
  Take fresh made lime  from the kiln, slake it
well with water, and well  dress  the  tree with a
brush, and the insects and moss will be completely
destroyed, the  outer  rind  fall off, and a new,
smooth, c'ear,  healthy one formed, and the tree
assume  a  most healthy appearance and produce
the finest fruit.
           Treatment of apple trees.
  The limbs of apple  trees are recommended by
some  to be brushed all  over in  the  midst of sum-
mer:  but it is difficult  to brush the branches of
trees  when  the fruit is upon  them.  Instead of
crushing the trees in summer, as soon as the leaves
nave fallen,  every tree should be carefully and
freely pruned, this will open a passage to the sun
and air, and will contribute to health in the future
season.  In addition to this, says a correspondent
of the Monthly Magazine  for 1820, 1 should re-
commend  brushing off the moss and  cutting out
the cankered parts at any season this is convenient,
and 1  further recommend the tree to be anointed
some feet from the ground with a composition of
sulphur and goose oil, and,  unless the orchard is
ploughed,  Avhich is very much  the  case in Shrop-
shire and Herefordshire, the soil should be opened
at the roots.
       'To render new pippins productive.
  To render it more hardy, the fari.ia of the pip-
pin should be introduced to the flower of the Sibe-
rian crabb, whereby  a mule is  produced, which
ripens in cold and exposed situations, yet retawis
the rich flavour of the other parent.   But these
hybrid, or mule productions, in a few  generations
return to the character  of the one or the other va-
riety.  A most excellent variety of this apple, call-
ed the Downton pippin, has  been obtained by
introducing the farina of the golden to the female
flower of the orange pippin, ind the progeny is
more hardy than either parent.
   To obtain early fruit by exhibiting the trees.
  Mr Knight,  having  trained the branches of an
apple  tree  against  a southern wall, in winter
loosened them to their utmost, and in spring, when
the flower-buds began to appear, the branches were
again trained to the wall.  The blossoms soon ex-
panded, and produced  fruit, which early attained
perfect maturity; and, what is more, the seeds from
their fruits afforded plants, which, partaking of the
quality of the parent, ripened their fruit very con-
siderably earlier than other trees raised at the same
time from seeds of the same fruit, which had grown
in the orchard.
      To  hasten the ripening of wall-fruit.
  Painting the wall with black paint, or laying a
composition of the same colour, produces not only
more in quantity, in the proportion of five to three,
but the quality is also superior in size and ffavotrr
to that which grows against the walls of the natural
colour.  But the trees must be clear of insects, or
>hey will thrive, from the same cause, more than
the fruit.
         To preserve plants from frost.
  Before the  plant has been exposed to the sun, or
thaAved, after a night's frost,  sprinkle it well with
spring-water, in which sal-ammoniac or common
sail has been  infused.
           To engraft the coffee tree.
  Plant in small hampers, during the rainy season,
young plants raised by seed, when they are from
12 to 18 inches high.  Place  them in the shade,
until they are quite recovered, then remove them
in the hampers,  respectively, to the foot of the
coffee trees chosen for the mother plants, which
ought to  be of the most  healthy and productive
kind.
  These latter should be  cut down to within 3 or
4 inches of the  ground, to make them throAV out
new wood near their roots. It is those  shoots which
are grafted, when they are about a foot or 15 in-
ches long, upon the seedling plants in the hampers
placed round the  mother plants.  The hampers
should be in part buried in the ground, to preserve
the earth within them moist.
  There are several ways of performing the opera-
tion of grafting; but  we shall give only  the two
following, Avhich seem most  likely to answer the
purpose,  without  calling  upon the  cultivator to
pursue too complex a process:—
  1st. Draw together the stem of the plant in the
hamper, and one  of the  branches of the  mother
plant.  Then make a longitudinal incision on each
of them, of the  same  length: bring the  two in-
cisions together, so that  one  wound covers the
other; bind them firmly together, and finally cover
them with a mixture of clayey earth and cow dung.
It would be useful  to cut off the top of the plant in
the hamper,  in  order to lorce  the  sap  into the
branch of" the mother plant.
  2d. Draiv together the tree in the hamper and
the branch of the mother plant, as before;  and take
oft' from 3 to 8 inches of the  head of the former.
Then make a triangular incision upon this cut, and
a similar one on the branch  of the mother plant,
to unite the two wounds; make them  fast together,
and cover them with the same composition as be-
fore; then place the branch upright by means of a
prop.  When the parts are firmly knit together,
cut the branch  away from the mother plant, and
the engrafting is completed.
  Young trees, thus engrafted, after remaining one
or two years in the nursery,  should be removed to
the plantation they are designed for.  This method
is highly useful to the fruit trees which ao not pro-
pagate, with all their  best qualities, by means of
seed.  In the same manner,  excellent varieties of
spice trees may be raised  from plants propagated
by seed.
   To preserve fruit trees in blossom from frost.
   Surround the trunk of the tree in blossom with
a wisp of straw  or hemp.  The end of this sink
by means of a stone tied to it, in a vessel of spring
water at a little distance from the tree.   One ves-
sel Avill conveniently serve two trees;  or  the cord
may be lengthened so as to surround several before
its end is plunged into the water.  It is necessaiy
that the vessel should be placed in an open  situa-
tion out of the reach of any shade, so that the frost
may produce all its effects on the  water by means
of the cord communicating with  it.
     Chinese mode of propagating fruit trees.
   Strip a -ing of  bark, about an inch in width,
from a bearing branch, surround the place with a
ball of fat earth, or loam, bound  fast  to the branch 
HORTICULTURE.
299
with a piece of matting:  over  this they suspend a
pot or horn, Avith Avater, ha-inga small hole in the
bottom just sufficient to let the water drop, in or-
der to keep  the earth constantly moist.    The
branch throws new roots  into the earth just above
the place where the  ring of  bark was  stripped
off.  The operation  is performed in the spring,
and the branch is sawn off and put into the ground
at the fall of the leaf.  The following year it will
bear fruit.
  This mode  of propagating, not only fruit trees
but plants of every description, received particular
attention from the editor while in China, and has
since been practised  by him  in  this country  with
never failing success.   The mode he  has adopted
is this:—A common  tin  cup has a  round  hole
punched  in the bottom,  a little larger  than will
admit the stem of the  branch it is intended to re-
ceive.  A slit is then to  be made from  the edge
down one side aud along the bottom to the central
aperture. The two sides can thus be separated so
as to let  in the branch Avithout injury; it is  then
closed up, the cup filled with loom  mixed  with
chopped  moss, and another cup or gourd pierced
with a small hole suspended from a branch above.
This is to be kept filled with water.  The time to
do this is in the spring just before the sap rises.
In the fall the limb, as before stated, is to be taken
off below the cup and planted, wilh all the earth
that adheres to the roots.
            To heal wounds in trees.
   This method consists  in making  a varnish of
common linseed oil,  rendered  very drying, by
boiling it for the space of an  hour, with  an ounce
of litharge to each pound of oil,  mixed with cal-
cined bones, pulverized and sifted, to the  consis-
tence of  an almost liquid paste.  With this paste
the Avounds are to be covered, by means of a brush,
after the  bark and other substance have been pared,
so as to render the whole as  smooth  and even as
possible.  The varnish  must be  applied  in dry
weather, in order that it may attach itself properly.
     Composition for healing wounds in trees.
   Take of dry pounded chalk, 3 measures; and of
common vegetable tar, 1 measure; mix them tho-
roughly, and b'oil them, with  a  low heat, till the
composition becomes  of the consistency of bees-
wax; it may be preserved for use in this state for
any length of  time.  If chalk cannot  conveniently
be got, dry brick-dust may be substituted.  After
the broken or decayed limb  has been sawed off,
the Avhole of the saw cut must  be very carefully
pared aAvay, and the  roug.i edges of the bark, in
particular, must be made quite smooth: the doing
of this properly is of great consequence; then lay
on the above composition, hot, about the thickness
of half-a-crown, over the Avounded place, and over
the edges of the surrounding bark;  it  should be
spread Avith a hot trowel.
     To propagate herbs by slips and cuttings.
   Many kinds of pot-herbs may, in July,  be pro-
pagated  by cuttings or slips, which may be planted
out to nurse on a shady border for a few weeks, or
till they have struck root, and may then be planted
out where they are to remain.  If made about the
middle, or end of ihe month, they will be ready
for transplanting before the end of August, and in
that case will  be well established before the winter.
The kinds are marjoram, mint, sage,  sorrel, tansy,
"vrragons, and thyme.
 To prevent the growth of weeds round young fruit
                      trees.
   To diminish the growth of weeds round fruit
trees, spread  on the ground round the fresh trans-
planted  trees, as far as the roots extend, the refuse
 stalks of flax after the fibrous parts have been sepa-
rated.   This  gives them very surprising vigour, as
 no weeds will grow under flax refuse, and the earth
 remains fresh and loose.  Old trees treated in the
 same manner, when drooping in  an orchard, will
 recover, and push out vegerian  shoots.  In place
 of flax stalks, the leaves which fall from trees in
 autumn may be substituted, but they must be co-
 vered with waste twigs, or any thing else that can
 preA'ent the wind from blowing them away.
 To avoid the bad effects of iron nails, &c. on fruit
                     trees.
   It often happens that some of the limbs of fruit
 trees, trained against a wall, are blighted, and die;
 while others remain  in  a healthy and flourishing
 state.  This has hitherto been erroneously attribu-
 ted to the effects of lightning; but from closer ob-
 servation, and from  several experiments, it  has
 been found to arise from the corroding effects of
 the nails and cramps with which trees in this situa-
| tion  are fastened.   To avoid  this inconvenience,
I therefore, it requires only to be careful in prevent-
 ing the iron from coming in contact with the bark
 of the trees.
            To destroy moss on trees.
   Remove it with a hard scrubbing brush in Feb-
 ruary and March, and  wash the  trees with cow
 dung, urine, and soap-suds.
 To protect trees and shrubs from  the attack of
                     hares.
   Take three pints of melted tallow to one of tar,
 and mix them well together, over a gentle fire. In
 November, take a small brush, and go  over the
 rind  or bark of the trees with a mixture, in a milk
 warm state, as thin as it can  be. laid on with the
 brush.  This coating will not hinder the juices or
 sap expanding,  in the smallest degree.  Its efficacy
 has been proved, by applying the liquid to one tree
 and missing another, Avhen the latter has been at-
 tacked, and the former left.   During  five years'
 experience, of the besmeared, the first two years,
 not one  was injured afterwards.  If all the bark
 were properly  gone over with the mixture, they,
 probably, would not need any more for some years.
 To prevent the propagation of insects on apple
                      trees.
    Let a hard shoe brush be applied to every infected
 limb, as if it were to coach harness, to get off the
 dirt, after which, with the tin box and brush,  give
 the limbs a dressing, leaving Ihem exposed to the
 sun, to inhale the efficacy of the application. This
 should  be  repeated occasionally  during the sum-
 mer, choosing always a dry time, and warm clear
 sunshine.
 To prevent the ravages of the gooseberry caterpil-
                       lar.
    The only remedy is by placing something about
 the stem, or among ihe branches of the bush, the
 smell  jf which  is obnoxious to flies,  and which
I they  Avill not approach; the smell of coal-tar  is
! said to keep off the  eaterpiJars;  the fact is,  that
j it kept off the fly. The practice is to wrap a beam
I or twist of seed, strongly impregnated with  this
 strong-scented  bitumen, round  the stem of the
 bush: and no caterpillar will touch a leaf.
;    Other remedies  are  used,  such as  soap-suds
j thrown over the bushes, lime, chimney-soot, and a
 strong decoction of elder-leaves;  but  Avho can eat
 gooseberries and currants after they have been be-
 smeared with such filthy materials? keeping off the
 P., by the smell of something Avhich is disagreea-
 ble to it, goes to the root of the evil at once, and
 there is nothing in the smell of coal-tar which can
 excite a prejudice in the most delicate  stomach.
                 Another method.
    A few small  pits or holes, from 12 to 15 inches
 deep, being dug among the bushes, at convenient
 distances, all the surface mould immediately under
 and near to the bushes, wherein the greatest quan- 
300
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
  tity of shells is likely to be deposited, is taken off [|
  with a common garden hoe, and buried in these  j
  noles  or  pits; after  which the whole  surface is |l
  carefully  dug  over, to  a  considerable  depth. i|
  Wherever these operations are properly perform-  I
  ed, no apprehension of loss from this kino of cater- I
  pillar  need be entertained.                      I
         To cure the disease in apple trees.
    Brush off the white doAvn, clear off the red stain
  underneath it, and anoint the places infected Avith
  a liquid mixture of train oil and Scotch  snuff.
                 Another method.
    Orchards are occasionally much  injured by an
  insect  appearing like  a  white  efflorescence; wl.en
  bruised between the  fingers it emits a  blood  red
  fluid.  Mix a quantity of cow-dung -with human
  urine,  to tlie  consistence of paint, and let the in-
  fected  trees be anointed with it, about the  begin-
  ning of March.
         To cure the canker in apple trees.
   The only means of preventing the canker  worm,
 which  destroys the young fruit, and  endangers  the
 life of  the tree, when discovered,  and  which in
 many instances has proved to be effectual, was en-
 circling the tree, about knee high,  with a  streak
 of tar,  early in the spring, and occasionally adding
 a fresh coat.
                 In other trees.                 \
   Cut them off to the  quick, and apply a piece of
 sound  bark from any other tree,  ahd bind it on
 with a flan..el roller.  Cut  oft' the  canker,  and a
 new shoot will  grow strong, but in a  year or two
 you will find it cankered.
            To cure ulcers in elm trees.
  The  remedy consists  in  boring  every tree  at-
 tacked by the disease, at the ulcer  itself; and iu
 applying a  tube to the hole  occasioned by  the
 borer,  penetrating  about 9  lines in depth.   The
 60Und trees, ivhich are also bored, afford no liquor,
 whereas those that are ulcerated afford it in great
 abundance, increasing particularly in fine weather,
 and when the wound is  exposed to the  south.
 Stormy weather, and great winds,   stop  the affu-
 sion.  In this manner the ulcers dry and heal in
 48 hours.
         To cleanse orchard trees by lime.
  The use of lime has been highly recommended in
 tlie  dressing  of old moss-eaten orchard   trees.
 Some fresh made lime being slaked Avith water,
 and some old  worn out  apple-trees well dressed
 with it with a  brush, the result was, that the in-
 sects and moss Avere destroyed, the outer rind  fell
 off, and a new, smooth, clear, healthy one formed;
 the trees, although 20 years old, assuming a most
 healthy appearance.
          To cure blight in fruit trees.
  A smothering slraw-fire should be  made early in
 October, in  calm weather, under each tree, and
 kept  up during an  nour or more.  This  done,
 scrape the moss and other impurities from  the
 trunk, and from every obscure hole and  corner; set
 your ladders to the branches,  carefully  cleaning
 them in the same way,  taking from the remaining
 leaves every web, or nidus, of insects.  If need be,
 wash the trunk, and all the larger wood, with a so-
 lution of lime and dung.  Last of all,  it  is neces-
 sary to  destroy the  insects, or  eggs,  which may
 have dropped upon the ground,  and  may be use^d
 to loosen the soil in the circumference.  In  the
 spring,  or early blighting season, apply your lad-
 ders,  make a careful survey of every degree, and
 act in consequence; repeat this monthly,  picking off
all  blights by  hand, and using the  water engine
where ablution may be necessary.  To those who
have  fruit, or the  market  profit, thereof,  every
orchard or garden, little or great, will amply repay
such trouble and expense.
                Another method.
   Trees newly transplanted, in general, escape it
 attacks, when other trees, of the same  kind ol
 fruit, groAvn in the same situation, have been nearl,
 destroyed.  Peach and nectarine trees should b,
 dug up, once in every five or six years, and replant
 ed with fresh mould.  By this  method,  a large
 quantity of fruit of a superior kind will be ob
 tained.  The covering  of  trees with  mats,  bj
 almost totally depriving them of light,  lias a ten
 dency to create blight, which often attends an ex
 cess of heat or cold.
        'To preserve apple trees from blight.
   By washing the branches Avilii quick  lime it will
 preserve the trees  from  blight, and insure a crop;
 those  which  escaped  washing suffered from tlie
 blight, whilst the others  produced a good crop.
 To prevent the blight  or milder:': from injuring
                   orchards.
   Rub  tar well into the bark of the  apple  trees
 about four or six inches wide round each tr^e, and
 at about one foot from the ground. This effectually
 prevents blight, and abundant crops are the conse-
 quence.
        To prevent mildew on fruit trees.
   Take one quart of watky (a Russian  spirit pre-
 pared from the distillation of rye, and  resembling
 in every respect the  whiskey of Scotland), two
 pounds of  powdered sulphur; two ounces of cop-
 peras, and a small quantity of camphor.  Dissolve
 first the camphor, reduced to powder, gradually in
 the spirit,  then dissolve  also the copperas  in  it;
 then rub in gradually the powdered  sulphur into
 the solution, when the whole will  form a  mixture
 of a thickish consistence.  The fruit trees, in the
 spring of the year, immediately after being cleaned
 and tied up, are to have  their trunks and all  their
 branches completely covered with  this mixture,
 by means ofa large painter's brush.
        'To prevent  mildew on peach  trees.
  In the months of January and February, if the
 trees are in a stunted or sickly state,  take away all
 the old mould from the roots as carefully as possi-
 ble, and put in ils place fresh rotten Uuf  from an
 old pasture, without any  dung;  and the trees will
 not only recover their health, but produce a  crop
 of fine swelled fruit.
       7 o prevent gumming  in fruit trees.
  To prevent gumming, or the spontaneous exuda-
 tion of gum from the trunks  of fruit trees, which
 injures, to a considerable extent, the growth and
 strength of the tree.
  Take of horse dung any quantity, mix it well up
 with a quantity of clay and a little sand,  so  as to
 make a composition; then add a quantity of pitch
tar (Avhat is put upon cart wheels), and form a Avet-
tish composition of tlie whole.  The  fruit trees, in
the spring of the year, after  they are cleaned and
tied up, are to have their trunks and stems com-
pletely bedaubed or covered with this l.iixture.
           To cultivate the cucumber.
  To produce cucumbers at an early season, is an
object of emulation with every gardener; and there
is scarcely any person, who has not his  cucumber-
bed in  his garden.   Cucumbers are forced in hot-
beds, pits,  and hot-houses, and the  heat  of  fire,
steam, and dung, have been  applied  to  their cul-
ture; but  dung is  the only thing yet  found  out,
by the heat of which the  cucumber may be advan-
tageously cultivated.
                      Soil.
  Cucumbers, like every other plant, will  groAV in
any soil, though not with the same degree of vigour,
provided they be supplied with a sufficiency of
heat, light, water, and air.
              For early forcing.
  Abercrombie recommends a mould or compost 
HORTICULTURE.
301
of the following materials:—Oi,<>third of rich top- I
spit earth, from an upland pasture, one-half of ve- ;
getable mould, and one-sixth of well decomposed j
korse dung, with a small quantity of sand.
  McPhail used Vegetable  mould, made from  a
mixture of the  leaves of elm, lime,  beech, syca- !
more, horse and sweet chesnut, spruce and Scotch j
fir, walnut, laurel, oak, evergreen, oat,  ash, he. '
and among them withered grass, and  weeds of j
various sorts.   This vegetable mould  is preferable
to any p*'iei\                                   j
        > Compost used in Kew garden.
  Of light loam, a few months from the  common,
one-third  part; the best rotten dung, one-third part;
leaf mould, and heath earth, equal parts, making :
together one-third part; the  whole well mixed for j
use.
                To form the seed.               . i
  If one light  frame will be  large enough forordi- j
nary purposes, choose a dry  sheltered part of the
melon ground, and forma bed. When high  winds
are suffered to blow against  a cucumber bed, they
have a very poAverful effect on it; therefore, when
a cucumber bed is about to be formed, the first ob-
ject of consideration should be, to have it sheltered j
from the  high winds and boisterous  stormy wea- i
ther. Having put on the frame, and waited till !
the  bed is fit for moulding, lay in 5 or  6  inches I
depth of the proper earth or  compost.             i
                   Sowing.                    |
  Abercrombie soavs same seeds in the layer of the |
earth, which he spreads over the bed, putting them ,
in half an  inch deep.   He  also sows some seeds in |
two, three, or  more smaH  pots, of the same kind !
of earth, which may be plunged a little into that of !
the bed.
          To raise plants from cuttings.
  Instead  of raising cucumber plants from  seed,
they may be raised from cuttings, and  thus kept on
from year to year, in the following manner:—take
a shoot which is  ready for  stopping, cut it off beloAv
the joint,  then cut smooth  the lower end of the
shoot or cutting, and stick it into fine leaf or other
rich mould, about an inch  deep, and give it plenty
of heat,  and shade it from  the  rays of the  sun  till
it be fairly struck.  By  this method, cucumber
plants may readily be propagated.
    Treatment till removed to the fruiting bed.
  After soAving, continue the glasses en the frame;
giving occasional vent above for die steam to eva-
porate.  The plants will be up in a few days, when
it will  be proper to admit  air  daily, but  more
guardedly, at  the upper  ends of the lights.  In
frosty weather, hang part of  a mat over the aper-
ture. When  the plants are a little advanced, Avith
the seed leaves about half an  inch broad, take them
up, and prick some in small pots of light  earth,
previously warmed by the  heat of the bed.  Put
three plants in  each pot, and insert  them a little
slopinglv, quite to the seed-leaves.   Plunge the
pots into the earth; and prick some plants also into
the earth  of the bed.   Give a very little water just
to the roots; the water should be previously warm-
ed  to the temperature of  the  bed.  Draw  on the
glasses; but admit air daily,  to promote the growth
of the plants,  as well as to give vent  to the  steam
rising in the bed, by tilting the lights behind, from
half an  inch to an inch or  two high, in proportion
to the heat of the bed, and the temperature of the
weather.   Cover the glasses every night with gar-
den mats, and remove them  timely iu the morn-
ing.  Give twice a week,  once in  two days,  or
daily, according to the season, a very light water-
ing.  Keep up a moderate lively heat in  the be'!,
by requisite linings of  hot dung to the sides.
          To guard the seeds from mice.
  Lay a pane  of glass over the pot or pan till they
have come up, and afterwards, at night, cover with a
pot of equal size, till the sc-ed-k-aves have expand-
ed, and the husks haA'e dro|>ped; for, until then,
the plants are liable to be  destroyed.  The cover,
however, should always be removed by sun-rise,
and  be replaced in the evening.  It is at night
these vermin generally  commit their depredations.
No air need be  admitted  till the heat begins to
rise, and steam begins to appear; but after that, the
light should be tilted a little every day, in whatever
state the weather may be, until  the plants  break
ground.  Air must then be admitted with more
care; and  if frosty, or very chill, the end ofa mat
should be hung over the opening, that the air may
sift through it,  and not immediately  strike  the
plants.
            To transplant cucumbers.
  As soon as the seed-leaves of the plants are ful-
ly expanded, transplant them singly into pots of
the 48th size, and give a little water and air night
and day.   The temperature for  seedlings is from
65 to 75 degrees.  With this heat and water, as
the earth in the pots  becomes dry, and a little air
night and day, so as to keep the internal air in the
frame sweet and fluctuating between the  degrees
of heat above-mentioned,  the plant will be fit for
finally transplanting out in one  month, that is, by
the 14th ofNoA-ember,  into the fruiting frames.
            To form t..e fruiting bed.
  Begin to make preparations for the fruiting-bed,
about three iveeks before  the plants are ready  to
be planted out for good.   The dung collected,  af-
ter being well Avorked, is made up  into a bed ot
about 4 or 5 feet high,  and the  frames and  lights
set upon it.   It is afterwards  suffered to stand for
a few days, to settle, and until its violent heat be
somewhat abated, and when it is thought to be ill
a St state for the plants to  grow in, its surface is ,
made level,  and a lull of mould  laid in just under
the middle of each light, and when the mould gets
warm the plants are ridged out  in it.  After this,
if the bed has become perfectly sweet, and there
be 1 eat enough in it, and the  weather proves fine,
the plants will grow finely.
                 To plant out.
  When the temperature is ascertained to be right,
bring the plants  in their pots; turn  over the hills
of mould,  forming them again properly, and then
proceed to  planting.   Turn  those  in pots clean
out one at a time, with the ball of earth  Avhole
about the roots; and thus insert  one patch of three
plants which have gi-OAvn  together, with t..e ball
of earth entire,  into the middle of each hill, earth-
ing them nearly  around the stems.  Also tny not
in pots, having been pricked into the eart.i of the
bed, if required for planting, may be taken  up
with a small ball of earth, and  planted similarly.
With water warmed  to the air of the bed, give a
very light  watering about the roots, and shut
down the glasses till  next morning.  Shade the
plants a little from the mid-day sun a  few days,
till they have taken root in the hills, and cover the
glasses  every evening with  large mats, which
should be taken off in the morning.
    Mc Pliail's method of covering the frames.
  First, lay  clean single  mats  on  the  light3 in
length and breadth,  nearly to  cover the  sashes,
taking care not to suffer any part of the mats to
hang over the sashes on or above the linings, for
that would be the means of drawing^the steam into
the frames  in the  night  time.  On these  mats
spread equally a covering of soft hay, and on the
hay lay another covering of single mats, upon which
are laid two, and sometimes three  or  four, rows
of boards, to prevent the covering from  being
blown  off by the winds.   The  mats laid on next
to the glass are merely to keep the seeds and dust 
302                           UNIVERSAL
ECEIPT BOOK.

 second joint.  About the middle of May, a warm
 situation, where the mould is very rich, is pitched
 on, and a trench dug out about 2 feet deep, 3 broad,
 and the length proportioned according to the num-
 ber of lights  it is  intended for..  This breach is
 filled with good Avarm dung, and Avhen the dung
 is come to its full heat, it is covered over wilh 8,
 10, or 12 inches deep of rich mould.  The glasses
 are then  set  upon  it about 3 feel  distant from
 each other, and  when the mould gets Avarm under
 them,  the  plants are turned out of the pes, with
 their balls whole, and plunged in the mould under
 the glasses, and  a little water given them to settle
 the mould about their roots, the glasses set over
 them,  and  after  they have made roots, and begin
 to grow, in fine days they are raised a little on one
 side to let the plants have free air; and, as the
 weather  gets  warmer, air  is given  more plenti-
 fully, to  harden  the plants, so  that  they may be
 able to bear  the open air, and run from under
 the glasses.   When the plants begin  to fill the
 glasses, they are  trained out horizontally, and the
 glasses set upon bricks to bear them from the
 plants.  After this the plants require nothing more
 than to be  supplied with  water when the summer
 showers are not  sufficient, and to stop them when
 they run too thin of branches, and  thin  them of
 leaves  or  branches  Avhen  they are  likely to be
 over crowded.
  In Avarm summers, and in warm  situations, by
 this mode  .of management, the plants will bear
 plentifully  for about two months, provided they be
 not attacked by insects or weakened by diseases.
    7 o prevent the irregular growth of melons.
  Melons  frequently,  in certain  situations, lose
 their circular form, and grow  larger on* one side
 than the other, and  those  mis-shapen fruits are
 always bad.  To remedy  this, take a small forked
 stick, in proportion to the size  of the melon, and
 thrust  it  into  the ground as nearly .is possible to
 the tail of  Ihe fruit, taking the precaution to lay a
 little moss between the two prongs, and suspend
 the melon  to  the fork. In  a few days the melon
 will resume  its  form, when the  fork may be re-
 moved, and the operation  is finished; the quality
 of the fruit remains undiminished.
             To produce mushrooms.
  If the water  wherein  mushrooms  have been
 steeped or washed be poured upon an old bed, or
 if the broken parts of mushrooms be strewed
 thereon,  there will speedily arise great numbers.
 To produce new potatoes  throughout  tlie  winter
                    months.
  Prepare a proper quantity of red sand, rather of
 a loamy nature, and mix it up  with a portion of
 lime in powder; viz. about one-third, about 14 days
 before using  it.   This soil is to be spread about 3
 inches thick at the bottom of any old wooden box,
 or on a very dry brick cellar floor—the cellar ought
 not to  be exposed to the frost, nor yet too much
 confined from the air.  Procure a measure or tAvo
 of large potatoes of a prior year's growth; the sorts
 preferred are, the red apple potatoes, and the pink
 eyes of purple  potatoes.  Set these on the soil
 whole, about 3 inches apart, with the crown or the
 principal eye  to the soil in preference; hut put no
 soil over them.   Plant about the 20th or Septem-
 ber, which allows  from 10 to 12 Aveeks for their
 growth; the old  potatoes also throw out numerous
 sprouts or  stalks, with many potatoes growing on
 them.   The original potatoes for planting whole,
 for sets in  September, should  be such as were of
 perfect growth in the October of  the  preceding
 year, and well preserved during the winter. The
 sprouts which shoot from them should be removed
 by  the end of April, and these sprouts, Avhich will
 be from 6  to 26 inches long, may be planted with
which may happen to be in the hay from  getting
into the frames among the plants.  If the bed be
high, in covering up,  steps or  short ladders must
be used by those whose office it is to cover and un-
cover; and great care must be taken  not to break
or injure the glass.
               Setting the fruit.
  The cucumber bears male and female blossoms
distinctly on the same plant. The latter only pro-
duce  the fruit, which  appears first in miniature
close under the case,  even  before the flower ex-
pands.  There is never »ny  in  the  males; but
these are placed in the vicinity of the females, and
are absolutely necessary,  by  the dispersion  of
their farina,  to impregnate the female  blossom;
the fruit of ivhich will not,  otherwise, swell to  its
full  size,  and the seeds will  be  abortive.  The
early plants under the glass, not  having  the full
current of the  natural air,  nor the assistance  ot
bees and other winged insects to convey the farina,
the artificial  aid of the cultivator  is necessary to
effect the impregnation.
  At the time of fructification, Avatch the plants
daily; and as soon as a female flower and  some
male  blossoms are fully expanded, proceed to set
the fruit the same day.  Take off a male blossom,
detaching  it with part of the foot-stalk; hold this
between the finger and thumb;  pull aAvay the  flow-
er-leaf close to the stamens  and central part, Avhich
apply close to the stigma  of the female flower,
twirling it a  little  about,  to  discharge thereon j
some particles of the fertilizing powder.  Proceed
thus,  to set every fruit, as the flowers of both sorts
open, while of a  lively full  expansion; and gene-
rally perform it in the early part of the day, using
a fresh male, if possible, for each impregnation, as
the males  are usually more abundant than the fe-
male blossoms.  In consequence, the young fruit
will soon  be  observed to SAvell freely.   Cucum-
bers attain the  proper size  for  gathering in about
15 or 20 days from the time of setting; and often,
in succession, for two or three months or more, in
the same bed, by good culture. The above artificial
operation will be found both necessary and effectual
in forcing the cucumber,  between the decline
of autumn and May,  while the plants are mostly
shut under glass.  In plants, more full)' exposed
to the free air, the impregnation is effected mostly j
or wholly  by  nature.                             I
               To save the seed.
  Select some best summer fruit,  from good pro-
ductive  plants; which permit to continue in full
growth till they become yellow.   Then cut  them ,
from the vine, and place them  upright on end, in i
the full sun,  for two or three  weeks;  when they j
may be cut open, and the  seed being washed out |
from the pulp, spread it to dry and harden; then
put it up in papers or bags for future  sowing.  It
will remain  good many years;  and seed  of three
or four years' keeping is preferable for early frame
crops.
              Insects and diseases.
  The thrips sometimes attacks early cucumbers,
and is to be destroyed by fumigation.   The red
spider rarely makes its appearance; when it does,
water must have been improperly withheld.  Some
soils  produce  canker in  the  shoots, especially
where they branch from the main stem.  When
this is the case, the only resource  is to renew the
soil and the plants.
    'J'o gi^ow cucumbers under hand glasses.
  The following  method  is given by Mc Phail
as that generally practised:—The seeds are  sown
about the middle of April in a cucumber  or melon
bed, and when they come  up they are potted out
into small pots, two  or three plants, in each, and
kept properly watered, and stopped at the first or 
HORTICULTURE.
303
all their fibres in a garden, for a first crop; about
June 15, the potatoe sets may be sprit again, and
the sprouts planted for a second crop—and in Sep-
tember, the potatoe sets maybe sprit a third time,
and the sprouts of the last  produce thrown away
as useless—at the end of September, the original
or seed potatoe is to be gently placed on the soils
as before mentioned for a Christmas crop.  At the
end of 3 months at furthest, the old  potatoes should
be carefully twisted from  the new  ones, and the
sprouts taken off the old potatoe, and the old po-
tatoe is then to be placed on its bottom or side, on
a fresh bed of soil prepared as before, and left to
produce another crop from  fresh eyes placed next
the soil: as you are to observe, that the old pota-
toe should not be set or placed twice on the same
side, and you must take care at that time to remove
the sprouts, to prevent the moisture from rotting
the old potatoe.  By the  above method may  be
had 4 crops of new potatoes from one potatoe, ex-
clusive of those produced from the  sprouts planted
in the garden in April and June, from which may
be obtained 2 crops of well  grOAvn potatoes in Sep-
tember and October, weighing from 10 to 12 ounces
each—the crops  were very plentiful in proportion
to *he quantity planted.
  The  potatoes are remarkably well flavoured, and
may be kept longer Avithout prejudice after gather-
.ng, before dressed, than  potatoes grown in  the
natural ground.
           'To raise peas in autumn.
  The  purple-flowered peas are found to answer
best for a late crop in autumn, as they are not so
liable to be mildewed as many of the other sorts,
and Avill continue flowering till the  first crop stops
them.  Those peas may be sown in July, August,
or so late as the first week  in September, if sown
in a warm sheltered situation, and in a soil inclin-
ing to sand.—Soak the peas in warm milk, and
after you have drawn the drills, water them before
you sow the peas: it is best to sow them towards
the evening. If the autumn should ^rove very dry,
they Avill require frequent  watering.   When peas
are sown before  Avinter, or early  in spring, they
are A_ery apt to be eaten by mice.  To prevent this,
soak the peas for a day or  two in train oil before
you sow them, which will encourage their vegeta-
tion, and render them so obnoxious to the mice, that
they will not eat them.
  To sow peas in circles instead of straight rows.
  It is  a great error in those persons who sow the
roAvs of tall-growing peas  close together.  It  is
much better, in those sorts which groAv six or eight
feet high, to have only one  row, and then to leave
a bed,  ten or twelve feet wide, for onions, carrots,
or any  crops which do not grow tall.   The advan-
tages which will be derived are, that the peas will
not be  drawn up so much, be stronger, will flower
much nearer the ground, and in wet weather can
be more  easily gathered without wetting you. but
instead of sowing peas in straight rows, if you will
form the ground into circles ot three feet diameter,
with a  space of two feet between each circle, in a
row thirty feet long, you will have six circles of
peas, each nine feet, in all  fifty-four feet of peas,
instead of thirty, on the same  extent of ground.
If you  want more than one row of  circles, leave a
bed of ten or twelve feet before you begin another.
For the very tall sorts, four feet circles will afford
more room for the roots to grow in, and care must
be taken, by applying some tender  twigs, or other
support, to prevent the  circles from joining each
other.  This method is equally applicable for scar-
let beans.
To prevent mice from destroying early sown peas.
  The tops of furze, or whins, chopped and thrown
into the drills, and  thus covered up, by goading
them in their attempts to scratch, is an effectual
preventive.   Sea sand, strewed pretty thick upon
the surface, has  the  same effect.   It gets in their
ears and is troublesome.
      To cultivate common garden rhubarb.
  It is not enough to give it depth of good soil,
but it must be watered in  draught; and in winter
must be well covered with straw or dung.  If this
be attended to, your  rhubarb will  be solid when
taken out of the  ground, and  your kitchen,  if a
warm one,  when cut  into large pieces, will soon
fit it for use.
              To force rhubarb.
  Cover plants of the rheum hybridum Avith com-
mon garden-pots (number twelve,)  having  their
holes stopped.  These are covered with ferment-
ing dung, and the plants come verj fine and quick-
ly, but are  much  broken by the sides and tops of
the pots.   After  it is all Avell up, the dung and
pots are entirely  taken off, and large  hand-classes
are substituted in their stead, thickly covered with
mats every night, and in dull weather.  This pro-
cess greatly improves their flavour,  and gives a
regular supply till that in the open air is ready for
use.
                Another method.
  Inclose and cover the bed with open frame-work
around, and  on  which  place the dung, and  with
this  treatment, the rhubarb will come up,  very
regularly, be of excellent quality, anil want far less
attention than is  required by' the former method;
for the frame-work renders hand-glasses,  or any
other cover, unnecessary.  Care should be taken
to lay the dung in such a manner that the top may
be partly or Avholly taken off at any time for the
purpose of gathering or examination, without dis-
turbing the sides.
  This is a superior method of forcing the rheum
hybridum;  but still the forcing by pots will answer
very well for any of the  smaller growing species.
                 Third method.
  To those who dislike the trouble of either frames
or pots, it maybe useful  to know that rhubarb  will
come in much quicker, oy being covered about six
inches thick, with light litter; care should be taken
iu putting it on, and removing it, that no injury be
done to the plants.
                To dry  rhubarb.
  The best method of drying  rhubarb, is to strip
it off its epidermis.  This is a long operation, but
both time and expense are spared in the end by the
promptness and  regularity  of the drying.  Many
cultivators of rhubarb, on a large scale, have re-
peated the  experiment, and  haA'e met with the
most decisive results.
               To cure rhubarb.
  The method of curing the true  rhubarb is as
follows:—Take the roots up when the stalks are
withering or dying aAvay,  clean tl.em  from the
earth with a dry  brush, cut them in small  pieces
of about 4 or 5  inches in breadth, and about 2 in
depth, taking away all the bark,  aud make a hole
in the middle,  and  string them on pack thread,
keeping every piece apart,  and every morning, if
the weather is fine,  place  them in the open  part
of the garden on stages, erected by placing small
posts, about 6 feet high, in the ground, and 6 feet
asunder, into which fix  horizontal pegs, about a
foot apart,  beginning  at the top; and the rhubarb
being sprung crosswise on small poles, place them
on these pegs; so that if it should rain, you could
easily remove each pole  with the suspended pieces
into any covered place.  Never suffer them to be
out at night, as the damp moulds them.
              To cultivate onions.
  Never use the hoe to  the plant except it be for
clearing the ground from weeds.  When the onious 
3CE1PT BOOK.
 304                           UNIVERSAL Rl

 have shot out their leaves  to their full size; and
 when they begin to get a little brown at the top,
 clear away all the  soil from the bulb down to the
 ring, from whence proceed the fibres of the roots,
 and  thus  form a  basin round  each  bulb,  which
 catches the rain and serves as a receptacle for the
 water,  from the watering-pot.  The old bulbs will
 then immediately begin to form new  ones, and if
 they are kept properly moist, and the soil is good,
 the cluster will be very large and numerous.   This
 is not the only advantage ot this mode of treatment,
 as the  bulbs thus grown above  ground are much
 sounder than those formed  beneath the surface, aud
 will keep quite as well as any other sort: which Avas
 not the case until this plan Avas adopted.
   By a particular  mode of culture, the onion in •
 this country may be grown nearly in form and size j
 like those from Spain and Portugal.   The seeds |
 of the  Spanish  or  Portugal  onion should for this |
 purpose be soavii at the usual peiiod in the spring,
 very thickly,  and in poor soil, under the shade of
 apple or pear trees.  In autumn the bulbs will not
 be much  larger than peas,  Avhen they should be
 taken from the soil and preserved until the suc-
 ceeding spring, and then planted at some distance
 from each other, in a good  soil, and exposed to the
 sun.  The bulbs will  often exceed  5 inches  in
 diameter,  and will keep  throughout  the Avinter
 much  better  than  those cultivated in the usual
 manner.
     Tlie Portuguese mode to cultivate oiuons.
   They must first  be raised on a nursery bed, in !
 the warmest and most sheltered part of the garden,
 as early in the  month of February as the season
 will permit; as soon as the plants are strong enough
 to bear removal, that is to say, when they are about
 the thickness  of a goose-quill, let some puddle be
 prepared  with garden mould and water, Avith a
 small proportion of soot,  the whole  to  be of the
 consistence of thick cream; as the plants are drawn
 from the seed-bed, let their roots be instantly im-
 mersed in the puddle, and there remain  till they
 are transplanted, where they are permanently to
 continue.  The plants should be set out about six
 niches  apart,  and the ground kept perfectly clear
 of weeds,  and regularly refreshed  with water in
 hot and dry weather.  On  this latter circumstance
 will very much depend their size and mildness; to
 this is owing the  superiority of onions grown in
 Portugal,  which are all cultivated in the way here
 recommended.   By keeping the roots in puddle,
. if it were only for  a feAV minutes, during the in-
 terval  between  the taking up and transplanting,
 they are prevented  from  receiving the  slightest
 check from the access of the atmospheric air, and
 »ill require  no immediate  watering when first
 transplanted.
         To obtain a good crop of onions.
   In order to obtain a good crop of onions, it is
 proper to  sow at  different seasons, viz.  iu light
 soils, in August, January, or early in February;
 and, in heavy  wet soils, in March, or early in
 April.   Onions, however.,  should not  be sown in
 January, unless the ground be in a dry stale, which
 is not often the case at so early a period of the sea-
 son: but if so, advantage should be taken of it.
              To cultivate asparagus.
   That part of the garden which is longest exposed
 to the sun, and least shaded by shrubs and trees, is
 to he  chosen for  the  situation  of the asparagus
 quarter.   A pit is then to be dug 5 feet in depth,
 and the mould which is taken from it  must be sift-
 ed, taking care to  reject all stones, even as low in
 size as a filbert nut.  The best parts of ihe mould j
 must then be  laid aside for making up the beds.
   The materials of tlie bed tire then lo be laid in |
 the following proportion and order:—            I
  Six  inches  of common  dung-hill  mannre,—8
inches of turf,—6  inches  of dung as before,—6
inches of sifted earth,—8 inches of turf,—6 inches
of very rotten  dung,—8 inches of the best earth.
  The best layer of earth must then be well mixed
with the  last of dung.
  The quarter must now be divided  into beds five
feet wide, by paths constructed of turf, two feet in
breadth,  and  one  in   thickness.   The aspavagus
must be planted about the end of March, 18 inclics
asunder.   In planting them, the bud, or top of the
shoot,  is to be placed at the depth of an inch and a
half in the ground, while the rools  must be spread
out as wide as possible, in the form of an umbrella.
A small bit of stick must  be placed as a mark at
each piant, as it is laid in the ground.  As soon as
theearih is settled and dry, a spadeful of fine  sand
is to be thrown on each  plant, in the form of a
mole-hill.  If the asparagus plants  should have be-
gun  to shoot  before  their  transplantation,  the
young  shoots  sb~uld be cut off,  and the planting
will, with these precautions, be equally successful;
though it should be performed in this country even
as late  as July.  Should any  of the plants originally
inserted  have died, they also may  be replaced at
this  season.   The plants ought to be two years nld
when they are transplanted; they will even take at
ihree, but at four they are apt to fail.
  In three years the largest plants will be fit to cut
for use.  If the buds be sufficiently  large to furnish
a supply in this manner, the  asparagus shoots should
be cut as fast as they appear; otherwise they must be
left till the quantity required has pushed forth; in
which case the variety in colour and  size prevents
them from having so agreeable an appearance.  An
iron knife is used for this purpose.
  The asparagus bed now described will generally
last thirty years;  but  if they be planted in  such
abundance as to require cutting only  once in twen-
ty-seven years, half the bed being always in a  state
of reservation, it will last a century or more.  The
turf used in making the beds should  be Aery  free
from stones.
               Another method.
  Make  the bed quite flat,  5 feet wide, of good
soil, without  any dung, long or short: sow it with
onions.  Then soav  two asparagus  seeds (lest one
should fail) about 1 inch deep, near each other: 12
inches each way sow two more; and  if the  spring
is cold and  dry let  the weeds grow  until  rain
comes.   In October, cover  the  bed with manure,
or rotten hot-bed.   The next spring remove tlie
Aveakest of the two plants, and keep the bed  free
from A^eeds.  To raise  seed, select the thickest
stems: after blossoming sufficient, take off*the tops,
to make the seed strong.  This ^s also ihe best way
to raise double ten-weeks  and  Broinpton  stocks.
Six pounds are sufficient for any strong plant: set-
ting them to flower near double ones is of no use.
The excess in  petal arises from cultivation, and
transplanting into  rich soil:  wild  flowers are sel-
dom double.  Keep all small seeds iu the  pod
until you sow them.
              J o force asparagus.
  The pits in which  succession  pines are kept in
the summer have at bottom a layer of leaves about
18 inches deep, covered with the  same thickness
of tan, which  becomes quite cold  when the pines
are removed.  In one of the pits should be spread
over the entire surface of the old tan a quantity of
asparagus roots, and cover  it with  six inches more
of tan, aud apply linings of hot dung, and succes-
sively reneiv it round the sides, keeping up thereby
a good heat.  The above mode was practised in the
middle of December, by Mr William Ross, and in
five weeks the crop was fit for use.   As soon as the
shoots made their appearance, aud  during the  day- 
HORTICULTURE.
306
time, he took off the  lights, introducing as  much
air as possible, which gave them  a  good natural
colour, and the size was nearly as large as  if they
had been produced in the open ground, at the usual
season.
  To insure perfect  success, it  is  expedient  to
have good roots to place in  the bed; the usual plan
of taking them from the exhausted old beds  of the
garden, is bad.   If  they are  past  their best, and
unfit to remain  in the garden, they cannot be in a
good  state for  forcing.  Young roots, four years
old from the seed, are much  preferable: they are
costly if the)' are to  be  purchased  every year;
but where there is sufficient space, a  regular soav-
ing for this particular purpose  should be made an-
nually, and thus a succession of stock secured.
      To render asparagus more productive.
  In the formation of beds the male plants only
should be selected,  which may easily be done  bv
not planting from  the seed-bed  until they  have
floAvered. , When the plants are  one  year old,
transplant them into the  other beds,  at six  inches
distance; let them remain there until the)* flower,
which Avill be in most of them in the second year;
put a small stick to each male plant to mark  them,
and  pull up the females,  unless.it  is wished to
make a small plantation with one of them, to prOA'e
the truth of the experiment.
  Towards the end of July, especially if it be rainy
weather, cut down the stalks of the asparagus, fork
up the beds,  add  rake them smooth.   If it be diy,
water them with the  draining of a dung-hill; but,
instead of leaving them round, leave  them rather
flat or hollow in the middle, the better to retain the
water or rain.  In about twelve or fourteen days
the asparagus will begin to appear, and if it be dry
weather, continue watering once or twice a week.
 Rv this method asparagus may be cut about the end
of September; at which time the hot-beds will suc-
ceed this,  so that by making  five or six hot-beds
during the winter, a regular succession of it may
 ue had every month of the year.
  To raise capsicum, and make Cayenne pepper.
   Capsicum  pepper is produced from the  capsi-
cum, which  is  raised for ornament, with many
 other annual flowers, or  for  pickling the green
pods, and is the seed and  pod  when ripe.  In
March or April  procure  some pods of any of the
 sorts of.capsicums, as there are many varieties of
 them of different shapes; take out the seeds, and
 sow them on a bed not too thick.  When they are"
 about four inches high, prick them out on the hot-
 bed at six inches asunder; or put each into a small
pot,orthree into a large one, and keep them still un-
 der the glasses. In June, when the weather is settled,
 plant them all  in a warm situation, in a rich earth,
 where they are to remain, some on the borders of
 the floAver garden, and some into larger pots, which
 you can shelter in bad weather.
        To cultivate the Alpine strawberry.
   The process consists  of soAving the seed on a
 moderate  hot-bed  in the  beginning of April, and
 removing the plants, as soon as they have acquired
 sufficient  strength, to beds in the"  open ground.
 They will begin to blossom after midsummer, and
 afford  an  abundant late  autumnal  crop.   This
 strawberry ought always  to  be treated as  our  an-
 nual plants.
               To cultivate sea kail.
   The seed is to be sown in the month of April in
 drills, on a good light dry soil; as the plants rise,
 thin them, and keep them cle:«n. The first winter,
 earth them up to protect them from the frost;  the
 following summer  thin  them to about eighteen
 inches distance, leaving the best plants. At Christ-
 mas, take away the decayed leaves,  and cover up
 each plant with a large deep pan or flower-pot, upon
       2 0
which lay a quantity of the leaves of tree,  to keep
off the frost, and create heat to the plants.   Stable
litter is sometimes used instead of leaves, Lut it is
apt to give the plants a rank taste.  In the follow-
ing month of April, the pots  will be quite full of
fine tender blanched shoots, which may be cut over
by the ground (but  not  too near) and the stumps
covered up again for a second crop: this  may be
repeated with the same plants  two or three times
during the spring,  before the  plants are  left  for
summer's growth.   With this treatment  the sea
kail,  if sufficiently boiled in two Avaters, will be
found equal to any asparagus or brocoli, and may
be eaten with butter, or butter'and  vinegar, and
pepper, as may suit the taste.   The plant  being a,
perennial one, will last for any length of time Avith
proper culture.
To cultivate  radishes to have them at all seasons.
  Take seeds of the common radish, and lay them
in rain water to steep for 24 hours; then put them
quite wet into a srrnll linen  bag, well tied at tlie
mouth with a packthread.  If you haA'e steeped a
large quantity of seeds,  you may divide them intft
several  bags.   Then expose the bags in  a place
where they will receive the greatest heat of the sun,
for about 24  hours, at the end  of which time the
seed will begin to groiv, and  you may then sow it
in the usual manner, in earth well exposed to the
heat of the sun.  Prepare Iavo small  tubs to cover
each other exactly.  These may be easily provided,
by sawing a  small cask through the middle, and
they will serve in winter; in  summer one will be
sufficient for  each kind  of  earth that has been
soAvn.  As soon as you  have sown your seeds yon
must cover them with your tub, and at the end of
three days, you will find radishes of the size and
thickness of young lettuces, having at their extre-
mities tAvo small round  leaves, rising from  tl>*
earth, of a reddish colour.  These radishes, cut or
pulled up, will be excellent, if mixed with a salad,
and they haA'e a much more delicate taste than tlie
common radishes which are eaten with salt.
   By taking the following precautions you  may
have them in the winter, and even during the hard-
est frosts: after having  steeped the seeds in warm
Avater, and exposed them to the sun as already di-
rected, or in a place sufficiently hot to make them
shoot forth, warm the  tivo tubs; fill  one of them,
with earth well dunged: soav your seeds, thus pre-
pared, in one of them, and cover it with the other
tub;  you must then be careful  to sprinkle it Avith
warm water  as often as may be necessary.  Then
carry the two tubs closely joined, taking care they
coA-er each other, into a warm vault or  cellar, and
at the end of 15 days you may gather a fine salad.
            To increase potage herbs.
   The  manzel worzel  would, if permitted to run
up, grOAV to a great  height, and afford a good
plucking of potage vegetables twice a Aveek in win*
ter (only).  It must be  planted late, but may co»-
 tinue in  the ground tAvo or three years, when its
 roots will be wasted, the herbage become dwarfish,
 and it must be renewed by seed.
I To guard cabbages from the  depredations of cater-
                     pillars.
   Sow with hemp  all the borders of the ground
 wherein the cabbage is planted; and, although the
 neighbourhood be infested with caterpillars, the
 space inclosed by the hemp will be perfectly free,
 and not one of these vermin will approach it.
            To banish the red  spider.
   Cut off the infected leaf. The leaf once attacked
 soon decays and falls off; but in the mean time'the
 animals remove to another,  and tlie leaf, from the
 moment of attack, seems lo cease to perform its
 office; but persevere in  tlie amputation, and th«
1 plants become healthy.
                                   2^2 
306
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 To stop the ravages of caterpillars from shrubs,
             plants, and vegetables.
  Take a chafing dish with lighted charcoal, and
 place it  under the  branches of the tree,  or  bush,
 whereon  are  the caterpillars: then throw a little
 brimstone on the coals.  The vapour of the sul-
 phur, which is mortal to these insects, and the suf-
 focating fixed  air arising from the charci al, will
 not only destroy all that are on  the tree, but will
 effectually prevent the shrubs from being, at that
 season, infested with them.  A pound of sulphur
 will clear as many trees as grow on several acres.
  Another method of driving these insects off fruit
 trees, is to boil together a quantity of rue, worm-
 wood, and common tobacco  (of each  equal parts),
 in common water.  The liquor should  be very
 strong.   Sprinkle this on  the leaves and young
 branches  every morning and evening during the
 time the fruit is ripening.
           To destroy insects on plants.
  Tie up  some flowers of sulphur in a  piece of
 muslin or fine linen, and with this the  leaves of
 young shoots of plants should be dusted, or it may
 be thrown on them by means of a common sivans-
 down puff, or even by a dredging-box.
  Fresh assurances  have repeatedly been received
 of the powerful influence of sulphur against the
 whole tribe of insects and Avorms Avhich infest and
 Drey on vegetables.   Sulphur has also been found
 to promote the health of plants, on which it was
 sprinkled; and that peach trees in particular were
 remarkably improved by it,  and seemed to al«orb
 it. It has been likewise observed, that the verdure,
 and other healthful appearances, were perceptibly
 increased; for the quantity of  new  shoots  and
 leaves formed subsequently  to the operation, and
 having no sulphur on their surfaces, served as a kind
 of comparative index,  and  pointed out  distinctly
 the accumulation of health.                    .
           'To cultivate the sun-flower.
  The  sun-flower,  kidney-beans, and  potatoes,
 mixed together, agree admirably; the neighbour-
 hood of the sun-flower proving advantageous to the
potatoe.   It is a well authenticated fact, that, with
 careful attention, the sun-flower will make excel-
lent oil.
  The marc, or refuse of the sun-flower, after the
oil is expressed, may be prepared  as a light viand
for hogs and goats, pigeons and poultry, which will
banquet on it to satiety. Query, would it not make
good oil cakes for fattening pigs? if brought into
/ihtice, it  might become an object of magnitude.
Forty-eight pounds of  sun-flower will  produce
 twelve pounds of oil.   In  fine, I esteem it  as
 worthy of consideration: for 1st.  In the  scale of
excellence, it will render the use of grain for feed-
ing hogs, poultry, pigeons, &c.  completely unne-
 cessary.  2. As it resembles olive oil, would it not
be found, on examination, competent to supply its
 place? whatever may be the points of difference, it
 certainly may be serviceable  in home consumption
and manufactures.  3. Its leaves are to be plucked
as they become yellow, and dried.  4.  It affords an
agreeable and wholesome food to sheep and rab-
 bits.   To goats, and rabbits, the little branches are
a delicious and luxurious gratification, as is also the
disc of the pure flower, after the grains have been
 taken out.  Rabbits  eat the  whole  except the
 woody part of the plant, which is well adapted for
the purpose of fuel.  5. Its alkalic qualities appear
to deserve notice, forty-eight quintals yield eighty
 pounds of alkali, a produce four times superior lo
that of any other plant we  are  acquainted with,
 maize excepted. 6.  Might it not be used as a ley?
And minuter  observation might  convert  it into
soap, the basis of both being oil.
  Dig and trench about  it, as both that  and the 1
 potatoe  love  neAv  earths.  Let  the  rows be  20
 inches distant from each other, and it will be adr
 vantageous, as the turnsole loves room.
   Three grains are to be sown distant some inches
 from each  other  and when their stems are from
 eight to  twelve inches high, the finest of the three
 only toue  left.  Two tufts of French beans to  be
 planted with potatoes. The French beans will climb
 up the sides of the sunfloAver, which will act and
 uniformly support like  sticks, and the sun-flower
 will second this  disposition, by  keeping off the
 great heat  from the potatoe, and produce mora
 than if all had been planted  with potatoes.
   Each sun-flower will produce one or Iavo pounds,
 and the acre  will bring  in a vast  amount, or con-
 tain one  thousand pounds, being  one-third more
 than grain.
           To economize the sunflower.
   The cultivation of the annual  sun-dower is re-
 commended to the notice of the public, possessing
 the advantage  of furnishing  abundance of agreea-
 ble fodder  for cattle  in their leaves.   When  in
 flower, bees flock from all quarters to gather honey.
 The seed is valuable  in feeding  sheep, pigs, and
 other  animals: it produces  a striking effect   in
 poultry,  as occasioning them to lay more eggs, and
 it yields a large quantity of excellent oil by pres-
 sure; the dry stalks burn well, the ashes affording
 a  considerable quantity  of alkali.
   To remove herbs and flowers in the summer.
   If you have occasion to transplant  in  the sum-
 mer season, let it be in  the evening after the heat
 is passed; plant and water the same immediately,
 and there will be no danger from the  heat next
 day; but  be careful in digging up the  earth you do
 not break any  of the young shoots, as the sap w"Ii
 exude out of the same, to the great danger ^ the
 plants.
      Method of growing flowers in winter.
   In  order  to  produce  this  effect, the trees  or
 shrubs being taken  up in the spring, at the time
 when they are  about to bud, with some of their
 own soil carefully preserved among  the roots,
 must be  placed upright in a cellar till Michael-
 mas; when, with the addition of  fresh earth, they
 are to be put into proper tubs or vessels, and pla-
 ced in a stove or hot-house, Avhere they must every
 morning be moistened or refreshed with a solution
 of half an ounce of sal-ammoniac in a pint of rain
 water.  Thus, in the month of February, fruits or
 roses will appear, and with respect to flowers  in
 general,  if  they are soivn in pots at or before Mi-
 chaelmas, and watered in a similar manner, they
 will blow at Christmas.
         To preserve wood from insects.
   In the East Indies aloes are employed as a varnish
 to preserve wood from  worms and other insects;
 and skins,  and even living animals, are anointed
 with it for the same reason.   The havoc commit-
 ted by the white ants, in India, first suggested the
trial of aloe juice to protect wood from them, for
 which purpose the juice is either used as extracted,
 or in solution by some solvent.
 To preserve young shoots from slugs and earwigs.
  Earwigs  and slugs are fond of the points.of the
young shoots of carnations and pinks, and are very
troublesome in places where they  abound; to pre-
vent them they are sometimes insulated in water,
being set in cisterns or pans.  If a pencil dipped  in
 oil was drawn round the bottom of the pots once
 in two days, neither of these insects, or ants, would
 attempt them.  Few insects  can  endure oil,  and
 the smallest quantity of it stops their progress.
 Vegetable liquor to hasten the blowing  of bulbous
                rooted flowers.
   Take  nitre,  three ounces, common  salt, one
 ounce, pot-ash, one ounce,  sugar, half an ounce 
HORTICULTURE.
307
   rain water, one  pound.  Dissohe the salts in a [I
   gentle heat, in a  glazed earthen pot, and when the
   solution is complete, add the sugar,  and filter the
   whole.   Put about eight drops of this liquor into
   a glass jar, filled Avith rain or riAer water.  The  I
   jars must be kept aUvays full, and the  water  re-
   moA'ed every ten or twelve days, adding  each time
   a like quantity of the liquor: the floAvers also must
   be placed on the corner ofa chimney-piece, where
   a fire is regularly kept.  The  same  mixture may
   he employed for Avatering flowers in pots, or filling '
   the dishes in which they are placed, in order to j
   keep the earth or the bulbs or  plants which they i
   contain in a state of moisture.
                 To restore flowers.               j
     Most flowers begin to droop and fade after being j
   kept during tAventy-four hours in water;  a few may ;j
   be revived by substituting fresh water; but all (the <\
   most fugacious, such as poppy, and perhaps one or ;|
   two others excepted), may be restored by  he  use ,j
   of hot  water.  For tliis purpose place the flowers II
   in  scalding water, deep enongh to cover about one- j
   third of the length of the stem: by  the time  the :
   water has become  cold, the flowers  will have be-
   come erect and fresh; then cutoff the coddled ends
   of the  stems, and put them into cold water.
              To preserve flower seeds.
     Those who are curious about saving floAver seeds
   must  attend to  them  in the  month of August. |
   Many kinds will begin to ripen apace, and should I
   be carefully sticked and supported to  prevent them I
   from being shaken by high winds, and  so partly I
   lost.   Others should be defended from much wet: |
   such as asters, maiygolds, and  generally those of |
   the class syngenesia; as from  the  construction of
   their flowers they are apt to rot, and the seeds to
   mould in bad seasons.  Whenever they are thought
   ripe, or indeed  any others in  wet Aieather, they
   should be removed to an airy shed or loft, gradu-
   ally dried, and rubbed or beat out at  conveniency.
   When dried Avrap  them up in papers or  in tight
   boxes containing powdered charcoal.
            To improve all sorts of seeds.
      Charles Miller,  son of the celebrated botanist,
   published a recipe for fertilizing seed, and tried it
   on wheat, by mixing lime, nitre, and pigeons' dung
   in water, and therein steeping the seed.  The pro-
   duce of some of these grains is stated  at 60, 70,
   and 80 stems, many of the  ears 5 inches long,  and
   60 corns each, and none less than 40.
           To preserve seeds for a long  time.
      When seeds are to be  preserved longer than
   the usual period, or when they are to be sent  to a
   great distance, sugar, salt, cotton, saw dust, sand
   paper, kc. have been  adopted  with  different  de-
   grees of success.  Chinese seeds, dried by means
   of sulphuric acid, in  Leslie's  manner, may be af-
   terivards preserved  in a  vegetating state for  any
   necessary length of lime,  by keeping them  in an
   airy situation in common  brown paper, and occa-
    sionally exposing  them to the air on a fine day,
   especially after  damp weather.  This method  will
    succeed with  all the larger  mucilaginous seeds.
    Very  small  seeds,  berries, and  oily seeds, may
    probably require to be kept  in  sugar, or among
   currants or raisins.
               To preserve exotic seeds.
'   *Five years ago,  says a correspondent of the
    Monthly Magazine,  1 had a  collection of seeds
    sent  me from  Serampoore, in the East  Indies,
    which have  been since  that period kept  in small
    bottles, in  a dry  situation,  without corks;  last
    spring some of them were sown, and produced
    strong healthy plants, under the following system;
    but it taken from the bottles and sown in the ordi-
    nary  way,  I have  found them  either to fail alto-
    gether, or to produce germinatiou so weak that the
greatest care can never bring them to any perfec-
tion.
  1 have long observed that oxygen is necessary to
animal and vegetable life, and that soil, which has
imbibed the greatest proportion of that air or gas.
yields the strongest germination, and with the least
care produces the best and most healthy plants:
under that impression, I prepare the soil, by adding
to it a compost made from  decayed vegetables,
night soil, and  fresh earth,  well  mixed  together
and turned several times; but should the  weather
be dry, I have generally found the compost  better
by adding water io keep it moist.   On the evening
before I intended to sow the seeds, I have  immers-
ed them in a weak solution of oxygenated  muriatic
acid, and suffered them to remain until they begun
to swell.
  By pursuing  this treatment even with  our En-
glish annual seeds, I am gratified  with  an earliei
germination, and with generally stronger and more
healthy plants.
                To dry flowers.
  They should  be dried off" as speedily as possible,
the  calyles,  claws, he. being previously  taken
oft"; Avhen  the floivers are very small, the calyx is
ieft, or even the  Aihole floAvering spike, as in the
greatest portion of the  labiate flowers;  compound
flowers, .with pappous seeds, as coltsfoot,  ought to
be dried very high, and  before they are  entirely
opened, otherwise the slight moisture that remains
Avould develope the pappi, and these would form a
kind of cottony nap, which would be very hurtful
in infusions, by leaving irritating particles  in the
throat__Flowers of little or no smell may be dried
in a heat of "5 to  100 deg.  Fahr. the succulent
petals of the liliaceous plants, whose odour is very
fugaeeous, cannot well be dried; several sorts of
flowering tops,  as those of lesser centaury, lily of
the valley, Avormwood,  mellilot, water germander,
he. are tied up in small parcels and hung  up, or
exposed lo the sun, wrapped in paper cornets, that
they may not be  discoloured.   The  colour  of the
petals of red roses is preserved  by their  being
quickly dried with heat,  after Avhich the yellow
anthers were separated  by  sifting;  the odour of
roses and red  pinks is considerably  increased by
drying.
       'To dry tops, leaves, or whole herbs.
  They should  be gathered in a dry season, cleans-
ed from, discoloured and  rotten leaves,  screened
from earth or dust, placed on handles covered with
blotting paper and exposed to the sun, or the heat
of a stove, in a dry airy place.  The quicker they
are dried the better, as they have less time  to fer-
ment or gi-oiv mouldy;  hence they should be spread
thin and frequently turned; when dried they  should
be shaken in a  large meshed sieve to get rid of the
eggs of any insects.  Aromatic herbs ought to be
dried quickly  with a  moderate  heat, that their
odour may not  be lost.   Cruciferous plants  should
not be dried, as in that case they lose all  their au-
tiscorbulic qualities. Some persons have proposed
to dry herbs in a water bath, but this occasions
them, as it were, to be half  boiled  in their own
water.
                 To dry roots.
   They should be rubbed  in water to get rid ot
the  dirt and also some of the mucous substance
that would  otherwise  render them  mouldy—the
larger are then to be cut, split, or peeled;  but iu
most aromatic roots, the odour residing in  the bark,
they must not be peeled; they are then lo be spread
on sieves or hurdles, and dried in a heal  of about
120 deg. Fall, either on the top of an  oven, in a
stove, or a steam closet, taking care to shake them
occasionally to  change  the  surface exposed  to the
air. Thick and juicy roots,  as rhubarb, briony, 
508
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
piony, water-lily, Sec are cut in slices, strung upon
a thread, and  hung  in  a heat of about 90 to 1-00
deg. Fahr.   Squills are  scaled, threaded and dried
round the  tube of a German stove, or in a hot
closet.  Rhubarb should be washed to separate that
mucous principle  which would otherwise render
it black and soft  when powdered.  Potatoes are
cut in slices anJ died to form a sago.
               To preserve roots.
  These are preservedln different ways, according
to the object in vieAv.  Tuberous roots, as those
of the dahlia, p«onia, tuberose, he. intended to
be planted.iu the succeeding spring, are preserved
throfigh the winter in dry'earth, in a temperature
rather under than above what  is natural to them.
So  may the bulbous roots of  commerce,  as  hya-
cinths, tulips,  onions,  &c.  but  for  convenience,
these are kept either loose, in  cool dry shelves or
lofts, or the finer sorts in papers, till the season of
planting.
  Roots of all kinds may be preserved in an  ice-
house till the return of  the natural crop.
  After stuffing the vacuities with straw,  and co-
vering the surface of the ice with the same mate-
rial, place on it case boxes, dry Avare  casks,  bas-
kets, he. and fill them with turnips, carrots,  beet
roots, and in particular, potatoes.  By the cold of
the place, vegetation is  so much suspended,  that
all  these articles may be thus kept fresh and un-
injured, till they give place to another crop in its
natural season.
             To gather vegetables.
  This is, in part, performed with  a  knife,  and
 •art by fracture or torsion with  the  hand.  In all
cases of using the  knife, the general  principle of
cutting is to be attended  to, leaving  also a sound
section on  the living plant.  Gathering with the
hand ought to be done as little as possible.
             To preserve vegetables.
  This is effected in cellars or sheds, of any tem-
perature, not lower, nor much above the freezing
point.  Thus cabbages, endive,  chiccory, lettuce,
he. taken out of the  ground with their main roots,
in perfectly dry weather, at the end of  the season,
anil laid in,  or partially  immersed in sand or dry
earth, in a close shed,  cellar, or ice-cold room,
will keep through the  winter,  and  be fit for  use
till  spring, and often till the return of the season
of their produce in the garden.
            1 'ime fo r guthei ing fnuts.
  This should take place in the middle of a dry
day.  Plums readily part from the tAvigs when
ripe:  they  should  not be much handled, as the
bloom is apt to be rubbed off.  Apricots may be
accounted ready, when  the side  next the sun feels
a little soft  upon gentle pressure with the finger.
They adhere firmly to  the tree, and would over-
ripen on it and become  mealy.   Peaches and  nec-
tarines, if moved upwards, and allowed to descend
Avith a slight jerk, will separate,  if ready; and  they
may be received into a tin funnel lined with velvet,
so as to avoid touching with the fingers or bruising.
  A certain rule for judging  of the ripeness of
fio-s is, to  notice when  the small end of the  fruit
becomes of the same colour as the large one.
  The most transparent grape3 are the most ripe.
 Ml the berries in a bunch never ripen equally; it
is therefore uroper to cut aAvay unripe or decayed
berries before presenting the bunches at table.
  Autumn  and winter  pears are gathered, when
dry, as they successively ripen.
  Immature fruit never  keeps so well as that Avhich
nearly approaches  maturity.  Winter appl;s should
be left on the trees till  there  be danger of frost;
they are then gathered on a dry  day.
            To gather orchard fruits.
  In respect to the time of gathering, the criterion
of ripeness, adopted by Forsyth, is their begi intng
to fall from the tree." Observe attentively when
the apples and pears are ripe; and do not pick them
always at the same regular time of the year,  as is
the practice with many.   A dry season  will for-
Avard the ripening of fruit, and a wet one  retard it;
so that there will sometimes be a month's cift'er-
ence in the proper  time  for gathering.   If this is
attended to, the fruit will keep well, and be plump;
and not shrivelled, as is the  case with all  fruit tluit
is gathered before it is ripe.
  The art of gathering is to give them  a lift, so as
to press aivay the stalk,  and if ripe, they readily
part from the tree.  Those that will not  come oft
easily should hang  a  little longer;  for when they
come hardly off they will not  be so  fit to store,
and the violence done at  the foot-stalk may injure
the bud there formed for the next year's fruit.
  Let the pears be quite  dry when  pulled, and in
handling avoid pinching the fruit,  or  in any way
bruising it, as those Avhich are hurt  not only decay
themselves, but presently spread infection to those
near them; when suspected to be bruised, let them
be carefully kept  from others,  and used first:  as
gathered, lay them  gently in shallow baskets.
            To presei"ve green fruits.
  Green fruits are generally preserved by pickling
or salting, and this operation is usually performed
by some part of the domestic establishment.
             7 'o preserve ripe fruit.
  Such ripe fruit as may be preserved, is generally
laid up in lofts and  bins,  or shelves, when in large
quantities, and of baking  qualities;  but the better
sorts of apples and pears are now preserved in a
system of draivers,  sometimes spread out in thein,
at other times wrapped up in papers; or  placed in
pots,  cylindrical  earthen vessels,  among  sand,
moss, paper, chaff", hay, saiv-dust, he. or sealed
up in air tight jars Or casks, and placed in the fruit
cellar.
               To preseit'e pears.
  Having prepared a number of earthen-ware jars,
and a quantity of  dry  moss,  place a layer of moss
and pears alternately, till  the jar is filled, then in-
sert  a plug, and  seal around  with  melted rosin.
These jars are sunk in dry  sand to  the depth of a
foot; a deep cellar is preferable  for keeping theih
to any fruit room.
  Another method.—Choice apples  and  pears are
preserved in glazed jars, provided  wilh covers.
In the bottom of the jars, and betAveen each layer
of fruit, put some pure pit-sand, Avhich  has  been
thoroughly dried.   The jars are kept in a dry airy
situation, as cool as possible, but secure from frost.
A label on the jar indicates the kind of  fruit, aud
Avhen wanted, it is taken from the jars, and placed
for some time on  the shelves of  the fruit room,
  In  this way  colmarts,  and  other fine French
pears, may be preserved till April; the terling till
June: and many kinds of apples till Jul/, the skin
remaining.
          To preserve apples and pears.
  The most successful method of preserving apples
and  pears, is by  placing  them  in glazed earthen
vessels, eaeh containing about a gallon, and sur-
rounding each fruit  with paper.   These  vessels
being perfect cylinders, about a foot each in height,
stand very conveniently upon each other, and thus
present the means of preserving a  large quantity
of fruit in averj' small room; and if the  space be-
tween the top of one vessel and the base of another,
be filled with a cement composed two  parts of the
curd of skimmed milk, and oneoflime, by which
the air will be excluded, Ihe later kinds  of apples
and pears will  be preserved with little change in
their appearance, and without any danger of decay,
from October till February and March.  A dry 
HORTICULTURE.
309
 end cold situation, in which there is little  change
 of temperature, is the best for the vessels;  but the
 merits of the  pears are greatly increased by their
- being taken from the vessels about ten days before
 they are Avanted for use, and kept in a warm room,
 for warmth at this, as at other periods, accelerates
 the maturity of the pear.
         To preserve  various sorts of fnut.
   By covering some sorts of cherry, plum, goose-
 berry, and currant trees, either on  walls or  on
 bushes  with  mats, the fruit of the red  and Avhite
 currant,  and  of the  thicker skinned gooseberry-
 trees, may be preserved till Christmas and later.
 Grapes,  in the open air, may be preserved in the
 uanie manner; and peaches and nectarines  may be
 kept  a  month hanging on the trees after they are
 ripe.
   Arkivright, by late forcing, retains plump grapes
 on his vines till  the  beginning of May, and  even
 later, till the maturity of his early crops.   In this
 way,  grapes  may be  gathered  every day  in the
 year.
   Another method.—But the true way to preserve
 kueping-fruit,.such as the apple and pear, is to put
 them iu  air-tight vessels, and place them  in the
 fruit cellar, in a temperature between  3-2 and  40
 degrees.   In  this way all the keeping sorts of these
 fruits may be preserved, in  perfect order for eat-
 ing,  for one year after gathering.
                  To store fruit.
   Those to be used first, lay by  singly on shelves, j
 or on the floor, '" a  dry southern room, on clean t
 dry moss, or sweet dry straw, so as not to touch
 one  another.  Some, or all  the rest, having first i
 laid a fortnight singly, and then  nicely culled, are
 to be spread  on  shelves, or on a dry floor.  Hut j
 the most superior way is, to pack in large earthen, i
 or China or stone jars, with  very dry long moss at I
 the bottom, sides,  and also between  them, if it I
 might be.  Press a good coat of moss on the top, I
 and then stop  the mouth close with cork, or other-
 wise, which should be rosined round aboui Avith a
 20th part of beeswax in it.  As the object is effec-
 tually to keep out air (the cause of putrefaction),
 the jars,  if earthen,  may be  set on dry sand, which
 put also between, round, and over them, to a foot j
 thick on the  top.   In all close storing,  observe ;
 there should  be no  doubt of the soundness of the j
 fruit.  Guard, in time, from  frost those that  lie i
 open.  Jars of fruit  must be soon used after un- j
 6ealing.
       To keep apples and pears for market.       I
   Those who  keep their fruit  in store-houses for j
 tlrt supply of  the  London and otlier markets, as
 well as those who have not proper fruit-rooms, may ;
 keep their apples and pears in baskets or hampers; |
 putting some soft paper in the bottoms  and round j
 the edges of the baskets, he. to keep the fruit from
 being bruised; then put in a layer ot fruit, and over !
 that  another layer of paper; and so on,  a layer of |
 fruit  and o>" paper  alternately, till tne basket or j
 hamper  be full:  cover the top with paper 3 or 4 j
 times double, to exclude the air and frost as much
 as possible.   Every  different sort of fruit  should J
 be placed separately; and it  will be proper  to fix a
 label to each  basket  or hamper,  with the name of
 tlie fruit that it contains, and the time of its being
 fit for use.
                  Another way.
   But the best way  of keeping fruit, is to  pack it
 in glazed earthen jars.  The pears or apples must
 be separately wrapped up in soft paper,  then put a
 little  well-dried bran in the  bottom of the jar, and
 over tlie bran a layer of fruit; then a little more
 bran to fill up the interstices between the fruit, and
 to cover  it; and  so  on, u  layer  of fruit and bran
 alternately, till the jar be full: then shake it  gently,
which will make the fruit and bran  sink a little;
fill up the vacancy at top Avith a piece of bladdei
to exclude the air; then put on the top or cover of
the jar,  observing lhat it fits as closely as possible.
These jars should be kept in a room where there
can be a fire in wet or damp weather.
  Nicol considers it an error to SAveat aDp'.es, pre-
viously to stormgthem.  The fruit ever after retains
a bad flavour,  it should never be laid in heaps at
all; but  if quite dry when gathered, should be im-
mediately carried to the fruit room, and be laid,
il not singly, at least thin on the shelves.   If  the
finer fruits are placed on any thing else than a clean
shelf, it should be on  fine paper.  Brown paper
gives diem the flavour of pitch.  The fine larger
kinds of pears should not be allowed even to touch
one another, but should be laid quite  single and
distinct.  Apples, and  all otlier pears, should be
laid thin;  never tier above tier.  Free  air should
be admitted  to  the fruit-room always in  good
weather, for several hours every day; and in damp
weather a fire should be kept in it.   lie careful at
all times to exclude frost from the fruit, and occa-
sionally  to turn it when very mellow.
         To preserve fruits or flowers.
  Mix  1 pound of nitre  with  2 pounds  of bole
ammoniac, and 3 pounds of clean common sand.
In dry weather, take fruit of any  sort,  not  fully
ripe, allowing the stalks to remain, and  put them
one by one into an open  glass, till it is quite full;
cover the glass with oiled cloth, closely tied down;
put the glass 3 or 4 inches into the earth, in a  dry
cellar, and surround it  on all sides, to the depth
of 3 or 4 inches, with  the above mixture.   This
method  will  preserve Ihe fruit quite fresh all  the
year round.
             'To preserve walnuts.
  Walnuts for keeping should be suffered  to drop
of themselves, and afterwards laid in an open airy
place till thoroughly dried; then pack them in jars,
box:s, or casks, with fine clean sand, that has been
well dried in the sun, in an oven, or before the fire,
in layers of sand and walnuts alternately; set them
in a dry place, but not where it is too hot.  In this
manner, they have, been kept good  till the latter
end of April.   Before sending them to table, wipe
the  sand clean off:  and if they have become shri-
velled, steep  them in  milk and water  for 6 or  8
hours before they are used; this will make them
plump and fine, and cause them to peel easily.
        'J'o preserve chesnuts and filberts.
  The chesuut is to be treated  like the walnut,
after the husk is removed, which in  the-chesnut,
opens of  itself.  Chesnuts  and walnuts may  be
preserved during  the  Avhole winter, by covering
them with earth, as cottagers do potatoes.
  Filberts may always be gathered  by hand,  and
should afterwa.-ds be treated as the walnut.  Nuts
intended for keeping should be packed in jars or
boxes of dry  sand.
        To preserve meu~. . and quinces.
  The medlar is not good til)  rotten ripe.  It is
generally gathered in the beginning of November,
and placed between two layers of straAv, to forward
its maturation.   Others put medlars iu a box on  a
three-inch layer of fresh bran, moistened well with
soft warm water; then  strew a layer of straw  be-
tween them, and cover with fruit two inches thick;
which moisten also, but not so wet as before. In  a
week or ten days after this operation they  will be
fit for use.
  Quinces are gathered in November, when they
are generally ripe.   After sweating in a heap  for
a few days, they are to be wiped dry, and placed
on tlie fruit-shelf, at some distance from each otlier.
           'To pack fruit for carriage.
  If fruit is to be sent to any considerable distance. 
310                            UNIVERSAL RECEIIT BOOK
 great care should be taken in packing it: it should
 not be done in baskets,  as  they are liable to be
 bruised among  heavy luggage,  and the fruit of
 course will be impaired.   Forsyth,  therefore, re-
 commends boxes made of strong deal, of different
 sizes, according to the quantity of fruit to be pack-
 ed. The foIIoAving are the dimensions of the boxes
 in which fruit used to be  sent  b^ the coach to
 Windsor and Weymouth, for  the "use of his  late
 majesty and the royal family
   The larger box is 2 feet long, 14 inches broad,
 and the same in depth.  The smaller  box is  one
 foot nine inches long, one foot broad, and the same
 in depth.   These boxes are made of inch deal, and
 well secured with three iron clumps at each corner;
 they have two small iron handles, one at each  end,
 by which they are fastened lo the roof of the coach.
 In these boxes are sent melons, cherries, currants,
 pears, peaches, nectarines, plums, and grapes; they
 are first Avrapped in pine leaves, and then in paper.
 The cherries and currants are first packed in a flat
 tin box, one foot four inches long, ten  inches broad,
 and four deep.
   In packing, proceed thus:—First put a layer of
 fine long diy moss  in the bottom of the tin box,
 then a layer of currants or cherries, then another
 layer of moss;  and so on,  alternately fruit  and
 moss, until the box is  so full, lhat when the lid is
 hasped doAvn, the fruit may be  so finely packed as
 to  preserve  them from  friction.  Then make  a
 layer of fine moss, and short, soft dry grass, weli
 mixed, in the bottom of the deal box: pack in the
 melons with some of the same, tight in between all
 the rows, and also between the melons in the same
 row, till the layer is finished; choosing the fruit as
 nearly ofa size as possible, filling up every inter-
 stice with the moss and grass.  When the melons
 are packed, put a thin layer of moss and grass over
 them, upon which place the tin box with the cur-
 rants, packing  it firmly all  round with moss to
 prevent  it  from shaking; then put a thin layer of
 moss over the box, and pack the pears firmly (but
 so as not to bruise them) on lhat layer, ir: the same
 manner as the melons; and so  on with the peaches,
 nectarines, plums, and  lastly  the grapes, filling up
 the box with moss, that  the lid may shut down
 so tight as to prevent any  friction among  the |
 fruit. The boxes should have locks and two keys,
 which may serve for them all: each of the persons
 who pack and unpack the  fruit having a key. The
 moss and grass should  always be  returned in  the
 boxes, Avhich, with a litlle addition, will serve  the
 whole season; being shaked up and well aired after
 each  journey,, and  keeping  it SAveet and  clean.
 After the wooden box is locked, cord it firmly.
   If fruit be packed according to the above direc-
 tions, it may be sent to  the  farthest  parts of  the
 kingdom, by coaches or wagons, wi'h perfect safely.
         Other methods if packing fruit.
  Fruits of the  most delicate sorts are sent from
 Spain and Italy to England,  packed  iu  jars witn
 saw-dust from woods not resinous or  otherwise ill
 tasted.  One large  branch of grapes is suspended
 from a twig or pin  laid across the mouth  of  the
 jar, so as it may not touch either the bottom or
 sides; saw-dust or bran, is then strewed in,  and
 Allien full, ihe jar is well shaken to cause it to set-
 tle; more is then added till it is quite full, Avhen
the supporting twig is taken away, and the earthen
cover of the jar closely filled and sealed, generally
with fine stucco.
  In the same way grapes may be sent from  the
remotest parts of Scotland or-Ireland  to the me-
tropolis. When the distance is less, they may he
sent enveloped in fine paper, and packed in moss.
The simplest mode for short distances is to wrap
each bunch in fine soft paper, and lay them on a
 bed of moss in a broad  flat basket a»iOi a proper
 cover.
   Cherries and plums may be packed  in thin lay-
 ers, with paper and moss between each.
   Peaches, apricots, and the finer plums, may each
 be wrapped separately  in  vine or other leaves, or
 fine paper, and packed iu abundance of cotton, flax,
 fine moss,  or  dried  short grass.  Moss is apt to
 communicate its flavour to  fine fruits, and  so is'
 short grass, if not thoroughly dried and sweetened.
 Cotton best preserves the bloom  on  peaches and
 plums.
               To preserve grapes.
   Where there are several bunches in one branch,
 it may be cut oft", leaving about 6 inches in length
 or more  of the wood,  according to  the distance'
 between the bunches, and a little on the outside of
 the fruit at each end;  seal both ends Aviih common
 bottle wax,  then hang them across a line in a dry
 room, taking care to clip out, with a pair of scissars,
 any of the  berries that begin to decay or become
 mouldy, which, if left, would taint the others.  In
 this way grapes may be  kept till  February; but if
 cut before tlie bunches  are too ripe, they may be
 kept much longer.
   Grapes may be kept by packing them  in jars
 (every bunch being first Avrapped up in  soft paper),
 and covering every  layer  Avith  bran,  well dried,
 laying a little of it in  the bottom of the jar; then a
 layer of grapes, and so on, a layer of bran  and of
 grapes alternately, till the jar is filled:  then shake
 it gently, and fill it to  the top with.bran, laying
 some paper over it, and covering the top with a
 bladder tied firmly on to exclude the air; then pul
 on the top or cover of the jar, observing that it fit!
 close.  These jars should be kept in a room where
 a fire can be kept in wet  damp weather.
      French method of preserving grapes.
   Take a cask or barrel inaccessible lo the exter-
 nal air, anc)  put into it a layer of  bran dried in an
 oven, or of ashes ivell dried and sifted.  Upon this
 place a layer of bunches of grapes well cleaned,
 and gathered in the afternoon of a dry  day, before
 they are perfectly ripe.  Proceed thus, Avith alter-
 nate layers  of bran and grapes, till the barrel is
 full, taking  care that the grapes do not touch  each
 other, and  to  let the last layer  be of bran;  then
 close the barrel, so that  ihe air may not be able to
 penetrate,  which is  an essential  point.  Grapes
 thus packed will keep 9  or even 12 months.   To
 restore them to their freshness, cut the end of the
 stalk  of each bunch  of grapes,  and  put that of
 white grapes into white wine, and that of black
 grapes into red wine,  as flowers  are put into wa-
 ter to revive or to keep them fresh.
      To pack young trees for exportation.
   The long  white moss of the marshes, sphagnum
 palustre, may be applied for this purpose. Squeeze
 out part of the  moisture from the moss, and lay
 courses of it about 3 inches thick, interposed  Avith
otlier courses of the trees, shortened in  their
 branches and roots, stratum above stratum, till the
 box is filled; then let  the whole be trodden  down,
and  the  lid properly secured.   The  trees  will
 Avant  no care,  even  during a voyage of 10 or 12
 months, the moss been retentive of moisture, and
appearing to possess an antiseptic property, which
prevents fermentation or putrefaction.  Vegetation
 will  proceed during the time the  trees  remain in-
closed, shoots arising  both from the branches and
roots, which, however, are blanchud and  tender,
for want of light and air, to which the trees require
to be gradually  inured. This moss is very common
 in most parts of Europe  and America.
       Practical directions to gardeners.
   1. Perform every operation in the proper season.
   2. Perform every operation in the best manner. 
  This is to oe acquired in  pan by practice, and
partly also by reflection.  For example, in digging
ov;er a piece of ground,  it is a common practice
with slovens to throw the weeds and stones on the
dug ground, or on the adjoining alley or Avalk, with
the intention of gathering them off afterwards.  A
better way is to have a  Avheel-barrow, or a large
basket, in which to put the weeds and extraneous
matters,  as they are picked out of-the ground.
Some persons,  in planting or weeding, whether in
the open air, or  in  hot  houses,  throw doivn all
seeds, stones, and extraneous matters  on the paths
or alleys, with a vieAv to  pick them  up,  or  sweep
or rake them together  afterwards: it is better to
carry a basket or other utensil,  either common  or
Subdivided, in which to hold in  one part the plants
to be planted, in another the extraneous matters, &c.
  3.  Complete every  part of an operation as you
proceed.
  4.  Finish one job before beginning another.
  5.  In leaving off working  at  any job, leave the
work and tools in an orderly manner.
  6.  In leaving off Work  for  the day, make  a tem-
porary finish, and carry the tools to the tool-house.
  7.  In passing to and from the Avork, or on any
occasion, through any part of what  is considered
under the charge of the gardener, keep a vigilant
look out  for  weeds, decayed leaves, or any other
deformity, and remoA'e them.
  8.  In gathering a crop, remove at the same time
            Component parts of soil.
  In general the component parts of the soil, what-
ever may be the colour, are argil, sand, Avater, and
air; for into these original principles may all earths
be reduced, however  blended with apparently fo-
reign substances.   Argil is the soft  and unctuous
part of clay.   The  primitive earths,  argil and
sand, contain each, perhaps in nearly equal degrees,
the food of plants; but in their union the purposes
of vegetation are most completely answered.  The
precise quantities of each necessary  to make this
union perfect,  and whether they ought to be equal,
it is neither very easy nor very material to ascer-
tain, since that point is best determined in practice,
when the  soil  proves to be neither too stiff or ad-
hesive, from the superabundance of clay,  nor of
too loose and weak  a texture, from an over quan-
tity of sand in its composition.  The medium is
undoubtedly best; but an excess towards adhesion
is obviously most safe.  A stiff or strong soil holds
the water which falls upon it for a long time, and,
being capable  of much ploughing, is naturally well
qualified for carrying the  most valuable arable
crops.  A light sod, or one ofa texture feeble and
easily broken, is, on the contrary, soon  exhausted
by aration, and requires renovation  by grass;  or
otherwise il cannot be cultivated to advantage.
           To distinguish clayey soils.
  A clayey soil, though distinguished by the colour
which it  bears, namely black, white, yellow, and
red, differs from all other soils,  being tough, wet,
and eold, and consequently requiring a  good deal
of labour from the  husbandman before  it  can  be
sufficiently pulverized, or placed  in a state for bear-
                                          311

the roots, leaves, stems, or whatever else is of no
farther use, or may appear slovenly, decaying, or
offensive.
  9. Let no crop of fruit, or herbaceous vegetables,
go to waste on the  spot.
  10.  Cut down the flour stalks of all plants.
  11.  Keep every part of what is under your care
perfect in its kind.
  Attend in spring and autumn to Avails and build-
ings, and get  them repaired, jointed, glazed, and
painted where wanted.  Attend  at  all  times  to
machines, implements, and  tools,  keeping them
clean, sharp, and in perfect  repair.   See particu-
larly that they, are placed in their proper situations
in the tool-house.  House every implement, uten-
sil, or machine not ;n use, both in winter and sum-
mer.   Allow no blanks, in  edgings,  rows,  single
specimens, drills, beds, and  even  Avhere practica-
ble, in broad-cast sown pieces.   Keep edgings and
edges cut to the utmost nicety.  Keep the shapes
of the  wall  trees  filled with wood  according to
their kind, and let their  training be in the first
style of perfection.   Keep  all  walks in perfect
form,  whether raised or flat, free from weeds, dry,
and well rolled.   Keep  all the laAvns, by  every
means  in your power, of a close texture, and dark
green velvet appearance.   Keep  Avater clear and
free from weeds, and let not ponds, lakes, or arti
ficial rivers, rise to  the  brim in winter, nor sink
very far under it in summer.
ing artificial crops of corn or grass.   Clay land is
known by the following qualities, or properties:
  It holds water like a cup, and once wetted does
not soon dry.  In like  manner, Avhen thoroughly
dry, it is not soon wetted; if we except the varie-
eties which have a thin surface, and are the worst
of all to manage.  In a dry summer, clay cracks,
and shows a surface full of small chinks,  or open-
ings.   If ploughed in a wet state, it sticks to the
plough like mortar, and  in a dry  summer,  the
plough turns it up in great clods, scarcely to be
broken or separated by the heaviest roller.
             To manage sandy soils.
  Soils of this description are  managed with infi-
nitely less trouble, and at an expense greatly infe-
rior to what clays  require; but at the same time,
the crops produced from  them are generally of
smaller value.  There are many varieties of sand,
however, as well as of  clay; and in some parts of
the country, the surface is little better than a bare
barren sand, wherein artificial  plants will not take
root unless a dose of clay or good earth is previ-
ously administered.  This is nof  the soil meant
by the farmer when he speaks of sands. To speak
practically, the soil meant is one where  sand  is
predominant,  although  there  be  several  other
earths in the  mixture.   From  containing a great
quantity  of  sand,  these  soils  are all  loose  and
crumbling, and never get into  a clod, even in the
driest weather.  This is the great article of distinc-
tion betwixt sands and sandy loams. A sandy loam,
owing to the  clay  that  is in it, does not  crumble
down, or become loose like a real sand, but retains a
degree of adhesion after wetness or droHght, not with-
HUSBANDRY.
i 
312
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK
 standing the quantity of sand that  is mixed  with
 it.  Perhaps a true sandy loam, incumbent upon
 a sound subsoil, is  the most Aaluable of all soils.
 Upon such, every kind of grain may be1 raised with
 advantage, and no soil is better calculated for tur-
 nips and grass.
   The real sands are not favourable to the growth
 of wheat, unless Avhen preceded  by clover, which
 binds the surface, and confers a temporary strength
 for sustaining that grain.  Much of the county of
 Norfolk  is of this description; and it is  well
 known that few districts of the kingdom yield a
 greater quantity of produce.  Till  Norfolk, how-
 ever, was invigorated by clay and marl, nearly one
 half of it was little better than waste; but  by the
 success which accompanied the use of these aux-
 iliaries, a new soil Avas in a manner created; which,
 by a continuation of judicious management,  has
 given a degree of fame to the husbandry of that
 country, far surpassing that  of other districts natu-
 rally more fertile.
                 Gravelly soils.
   The open porous  nature of these soils disposes
 them to imbibe moisture, and to part with it with
 great facility: from the latter of which circumstan-
 ces they are subject to burn, as it is termed, in dry sea-
 sons. The main difference between gravel and sand
 is, that the former is chiefly  composed of small soft
 stones; though in some instances the stones are ofa
 siliciousorflinty nature, and, in others, of the calca-
 reous or chalky. From these constitutional circum-
 stances arise the propriety of deepeninggravelly soils
 by coats of marl or earth, and of keeping them fresh
 by frequent returns of grass, and repeated appli-
 cations of manure.   Gravelly soils,  from the light-
 ness of their texture, are not expensive or difficult
 in the means of cultivation.  All  the necessary
 business required  for gravels may be carried for-
 ward with ease and expedition; and  such soils are,
 in general,  soon brought  into  a  proper  state  for
 the reception of crops.
   The  constitutional qualities of gravels point out
 the  propriety of ploughing them deep, so that the
 surface soil  may be augmented, and greater room
 given to the growih of the plants  cultivated  on
 them.   A shallow-ploughed gravel can stand  no
 excess of weather, however enriched by manure.
 Il is burnt up by a day or tAvo of draught, and it is
 almost equally injured by an excessive fall of rain,
 unless the pan or firm bottom, which such soils
 easily gain,  be frequently broken through by deep
 ploughing.
             Uses of different soils.
  Cla)rey  soils, when sufficiently  enriched with
 manures, are naturally well qualified  for carrying
 crops of wheat, oats, beans, and clover; but are
 not fitted for barley,  turnips, potatoes, he. or oven
 for being kept under for grass longer than one
 year.  Such soils ought to be regularly summer-
 fallowed once in six, or at least once in eight years,
 even when they are comparatively in a clean state,
 B6 they contract a sourness and adhesion from wet
 ploughing,  only to be removed  by exposure to the
 sun and wind during the dry months  of summer.
 Soils of this kind receive little benefit from winter
ploughing, unless so far as their surface is thereby
presented to the frost, which mellows  and reduces
them in a manner infinitely superior to what could
be accomplished by all the operations  of  man.
 Still they are not cleaned or made free of weeds  by
 winter ploughing; and therefore this operation can
 only be considered as a good means for procuring
 a seed-bed, in which the seeds of the  future crop
 rftay be safely deposited.   Hence the necessity  of
 cleaning clay soils during the summer  months, and i
 of having ahvays a large part of every clay farm
 under summer fallow. All clayey soils require \
 great industry and care, ns  well as a considtrabhi
 portion of knowledge in dressing or management,
 to keep them  In good  condition; yet when  their
 natural toughness is got the better of, they always
 yield the heaviest anil most abundant crops.  One
 thing requisite for a clayey soil, is to keep it rich
 and full of manure; a poor clay being the most un-
 grateful of all soils, and hardly capable of repay-
 ing the expense of labour, after  being Avorn out
 and exhausted.  A clavey soil also receives,  com-
 paratively, small benefit from grass; and when once
 allowed to get into a sterile condition, the  most
 active endeavours will with difficulty restore ferti-
 lity to it after the lapse of many years.
   Upon light  soils,  the case is  a fry different.
 These flourish under  the grass  husbandry;  and
 bare summer fallow   is  rarely   required,  be-
 cause  they may  be cleaned and  cropped in the
 same year, with  that valuable esculent, turnip.
 Upon light soils, however, wheat ctin seldom be
 extensively cultivated; nor can a crop be obtained
 of equal value, either  in respect to quantity or
 quality, as on clay sand loams.   The best method
 of procuring wheats on  light lands, is to sow  upon
 a  clover stubble, when the soil  has got an artificial
 solidity of body and is thereby rendered capable
 of sustaining  this grain till it arrives at maturity.
 The same obserA'ation applies to soils ofa gravel-
 ly nature;  and upon   both, barley  is  generally
 found of as great benefit as Avheat.
   Thin clays, and peat earths, are more  friendly
 to the groAvth of oats than of other grains, though
 in favourable seasons a heavy crop of wheat  may
 be obtained from  a  thin clayey soil, Avhen it has
 been completely summer-fallowed, and  enriched
 with dung.   A first application of calcareous ma-
 nure is generally accompanied  with great advan-
 tage upon  these soils;  but  when  once the  effect
 of this application is over, it can hardly be repeat-
 ed a second time,  unless the land  has been  very
 cautiously managed after the first  dressing.   Nei-
 ther of these soils  is friendly lo grass, yet there is
 a necessity of exercising fhis husbandry Avith them,
 because they are incapable of standing the plough
 more than a year or two  in the course of a rotation.
   Wheat ought  to be the  predominant   crop
 upon all the rich clays and strong  loams, and that
 light soils of every kind are Avell qualified for tur-
 nips, barley, &c.  Upon the thin and moorish soils,
 oats must necessarily preserve a prominent rank;
 and grass seeds may be  cultivated  upon every one
 of them, though with different  degrees of advan-
 tage, according to the  natural and artificial rich-
 ness of  each soil, or to the qualities which it pos-
 sesses for encouraging the growth of clover, in the
first instance, and preserving the roots of the plant
afterwards.
              Operation of tillage.
   Tillage is an operation whereby the soil is either
cleared from noxious weeds, or prepared for re-
ceiving the seeds  of plants cultivated by the hus-
bandman.  When this  operation is neglected, or
even partially  executed,  the soil  becomes foul,
barren,  and  unproductive;  hence, upon  arable
farms, tillage forms the prominent branch of work;
and, according to the perfection, or imperfection,
with which  it is executed, the  crops  ot  the  hus-
bandman, whether of oorn or grass, are in a great
measure regulated.
  Tillage,  in the  early ages,  was performed  by
hand labour; but, in modern times, the plough has
been the universal  instrument used for executing
this uecessary and  important branch of rural work.
In no other way can large fields be turned over,
because the expense of digging Avith the spade, the
only other method of turning  over the  ground,
would much exceed any profit that can be reaped. 
HUSBANDRY.
313
  Stones lying above or below the surface are the
most  formidable obstruction to perfect tillage.
On stony ground, the work is not only imperfectly
executed, but in many cases the implement is bro-
ken to pieces, and a considerable portion of  time
lost before it is repaired, and put in order.   The
removal of stones, therefore, especially of such as
are  beloAV  the surface, ought to  be a primary ob-
ject with every  agriculturist; because a neglect
of this kind may afterwards occasion him conside-
rate loss and  inconvenience.
  To drain the ground,  in other words, to lay it
dry, also facilitates tillage exceedingly; for plough-
ing cannot be performed  with  advantage where
euher the surface or subsoil is wet.
              Best mode of tillage.
  The only sure and certain way by which the soil
is cleaned or rendered free of Aveeds, is by plough-
ing in the  summer months, when the ground is
dry, and when, by the influence of the sun and air,
the  Aveeds may be  destroyed with facility.   Sel-
dqm at any other period is  the soil much  benefited
by ploughing,  unless so far as a seed-bed is thus
procured for ".he  succeeding crop; and though the
situation or state  of the ground,  when these inter-
mediate ploughings are bestowed, is of importance
in-judging of their utility, yet the radical process
of summer fallow cannot, by any means,  be  alto-
gether dispensed Avith.   Though, if the winter and
spring ploughings are executed under favourable
circumstances, and plenty of manure is at hand, it
may be delayed for a greater number of years than
is otherwise practicable, if good husbandry  is to
be maintained.   -
  Without summer falloAV, or, which is  the same
thing, Avithout working the ground in the summer
months, perfect  husbandry is unattainable on all
heavy or cold soils,  aud upon  ei'ery variety incum-
bent on a close or retentive bottom.
  To keep his lai.d clean will always be  a princi-
pal object  with  every good farmer; for  if this is
neglected, in place of carrying rich crops of corn
or grass, the ground will be exhausted  by crops
of weeds.  Where  land is foul, every  operation
of husbandry must  be proportionably non-effec-
tive; and even the manures applied will,  in a great
measure, be lost.
  Tne necessity of summer fallow depends great-
ly upon the nature and quality of the soil; as, upon
some  soils, a repetition of this practice is less fre-
quently required than  upon  others.  Wherever
tlie soil is incumbent upon  clay or till, it is  more
disposed to get foul, than when incumbent upon a
dry gravelly bottom; besides, wet soils, from be-
ing ploughed in  winter, contract a stiffness which
lessens the pasture of artificial plants, and prevents
them from receiving sufficient nourishment. When
land of a dry gravelly bottom gets foul, it may ea-
silv be  cleaned  without a plain summer fallow;
since crops, such as turnips, he. may be substitu-
ted in its place, which, when drilled at proper in-
teiwals, admit of being ploughed as often  ..s neces-
sary; whereas  wet soils, which are naturally  unfit
for' carrying such  crops,  must be  cleaned   and
brought into good order, by  frequent ploughings
and harrowings during the summer months.
              To conduct a fallow.
  Upon all clayey  soils (and upon such  only is
a complete summer fallow necessary),  the  first
ploughing  ought to be given during the winter
months, or as early in the spring as possible; which
greatly promotes the rotting of the sward and stub-
ble.   This should be done by gathering up the
ridge, which both lays  the ground dry, und rips
up the furrows.   As soon as seed-time is over, the
ridge  should be cloven doAvn, preparatory to cross
ploughing; and after lying a proper time, should
      2  P
 be hart-OAved and rolled repeatedly, and every par-
 ticle  of quickens that  the harrows have brought
 above, should be carefully picked off with the hand.
 It is then proper to ridge or gather it up immedi-
 ately, which both fays the land in  propel condi-
i dilion for meeting bad weather,  and   opens  up
 any  fast land that may have  been missed in the
 furrows when the cross ploughing was given.  After
I this, harrow, roll and gather the root  weeds again;
 and continue so doing till the field is perfectly clean.
              To prepare the ground.
   The  above object is most completely accom-
 plished, when  the ground is ploughed  deep and
r equal, while ihe bottom of the furrow immediately
 above the subsoil is perfectly  loosened, and turned
 equally over with the  part which constitutes the
 surface. In  many places, these properties are  alto-
 gether neglected, the ground  being ploughed in a
 shallow Avay, while  the bottom ot the  ploughed
 land remains something like the  teeth  of a saw,
 having  the  under part of the furroAv untouched,
 and consequently not removed by the action of the
 plough.   While these things are suffered, the ob-
 ject of tillage is only partially gained.  The food  of
 plants can  only be imperfectly procured; and the
 ground  is drenched and injured by wetness; these
 ridges,  or pieces ol  land, which are not cut, pre-
 venting a .descent of the moisture from above to
 the open furrows left for carrying it off.  Where
 the  seed-bed is  prepared by one ploughing; the
 greatest care ought to be used in having it closely
 and equally performed.  When tAvo are given, they
 should  be in opposite directions, so that any firm
 land  left  in the  first may be  cut up in the second
 ploughing.  It is not  profitable to plough  twice one
 way, if it  can be safely avoided.
    Another  important  point  towards  procuring
 good tillage, is never to plough the land when in a
 wet stale; because encouragement i* thus given to
 the growth of weeds,  while a sourness and adhesion
 is communicated to  the ground, which  is rarely
 got the  better of till the operations of a summer fal-
 low are again repeated.
   All soils ought not to be wrought, or ploughed,
 in one manner.   Each kind has its particular and
 appropriate qualities; and, therefore, each requires
 a particular and appropriate mode of tillage. Plough-
 ing,  which is the capital operation of husbandry,
 ought,on these accounts,to be administered accord-
 ing to the nature of the soil which is to be operated
 upon, and not executed agreeably to one  fixed and
 determined  principle.   On strong clays and loams,
, and on rich gravels and deep sands, the plough ought
 to go as deep as the cattle are able to Avork it; where-
 as, on thin clays and barren sands the benefit of deep
 ploughing is very questionable; especially when
 such are incumbent on a till bottom, or where the
 subsoil  is of a yellow-ochre nature; such, Avhen
 turned  up,  being little better than poison to the
 surface, unless highly impregnated  with alluvial
 compost, the effect ot which expels the  poisonous
 substance contained  in this kind  of subsoil, and
 gives a  fertility to the whole mass, more decisively
 permanent,  than  would follow a heavy application
 of the best rotten dung.
I   Two sets of ploughs required for  perfect tillage.
1    On clayey soils, where the ridges must be consi-
 dered acclivated, so that the ground  may be pre-
 served  in something  like a dry  condition, the
 plough, used for tillage; ought to have a mould-
 board consideraby wider set  than is  required for
 light soils, in order that the furrow may be close
i cut beloAv, and duly turned over.  This method  of
I constructing the  plough necessarily makes a  hea-
I vier draught than  would  be the  case   were the
I mould-board placed differently; though if good aud
I sufficient  Avork be  Avanted, the nicessity of  ccn-
                                     2  B 
314
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
Btructing the implement in the way mentioned, is
absolute and indispensable. The plough to be used
on light soils, or on all soils that admit of what is
technically called crown and furrow ploughing, may
be made much straighter below, and yet be capa-
ble of executing the ivorkin a perfect manner.  Oitj
every farm, consisting of mixed soils, tivo sets of I
ploughs ought to be kept, othenvise proper work j
cannot be performed. All land ought to be plough- j
ed with a shoulder, and the advantages of plough- f
ing in this way are, that, if ploughed before winter, j
the surface is enabled  to resist the winter rains, |
and afterwards  present a face, on which the  har- I
rows  can make  a proper impressi in,  when  the j
seed process is  to be  executed.  This deserves
particular  attention  when old grass fields  are
broken up; as, by-neglecting it, the harrows often
are unable to cover the seed,  it is perfectly prac-
ticable to plough land  Avith a tolerably broad fur-
row, say 10, 11, or 12 inches, and yet to plough it
clean,  provided  the  implement used  is properly j
constructed; but, then, care must be taken that the
furrow be of proportionate  deepness, otherwise it
will be laid on its back, instead of being deposited
at an angle proper  for undergoing the harroAving
process.
            Implements ofhi^bandry.
  No country in the Avorid is better provided with
implements for executing rural labour than Great
Britain; and to this superiority  may, in some mea-
sure,  be attributed the increased and increasing
perfection of agriculture  over  the whole island.
VVe have ploughs of all the different kinds that ever
were constructed: as  for  wheel carriages, the va-
riety is immense; whilst harroAvs, and other com-
mon implements,  of various  constructions   and
dimensions, are equally numerous.   But.it  is in
the articles  more  properly allied to  machinery,
that the superiority of British rural implements is
most  conspicuous.  Drills  for  sowing  grain  and
small seeds with regularity, have been constructed
upon scientific principles; and  machines for sepa-
rating grain from straw, have been invented,  and
brought to a degree of perfection Which feAv people
expected, when these machines were first intro-
duced.
    Mr Small's improved Rotherham plough.
  The sock, or share, is made with a fin, or fea-
ther, whereby the firm  earth at the bottom of the
furrow is cut more completely  than was  practica-
ble by the  sook of the old ploughs,  which acted
more in the way of mining and forcing than cut-
ting and removing  the earth with facility  or ease;
and the mould-board  being of cast metal, may be
set wider or closer according to the nature of the
soil on Avhich the plough is  to be used, or the
height of the ridges that are to he ploughed. This
implement is, therefore, the best constructed swing
plough in the island; and by means of it a man and
two horses will, with all ease,  plough ah English
acre per day, except in particular seasons, when
the soil, from drought,  has become hard and obsti-
nate.
  No kind of plough will cut the furrow so clean,
or turn it so nicely over for receiving benefit from
the atmosphere, and effect from the harrowing
process; and, what is of greater importance, none
are more easily  drawn,  taking  into account the
quality of work that is performed, than the one of
which we  are now speaking.  A great deal of its
utility is determined by the strength of the animals
employed in the draught; by the dexterity of the
man to whom the management  is committed; and
by the order and condition in which the coulter and
share are preserved;  for the best constructed im-
plement Avill make  bad  work,  when  strength
and dexterity are wanting in the operator.  But, [
under a parity of circumstances, it may be affirm-
ed, that the "swing plough, brought into practice,
and  afterwards  improved by Mf Small, is  fitted
for executing work to a better purpose, than any
other of the numerous varieties of that implement
employed in the several districts of Great Britain.
   The mould-board, as the sheath or head, is now
generally  made of cast iron.
  It is now universal over Scotland, and  perhaps,
were it better known in England, it might come to
displace the complicated ploughs, with wheels and
other trumpery, with which agriculture there is at
present incumbered;  as it is not apt to  be put out
of order,  but, simple in the  construction, and ef-
fective in  operation, it is adapted  to almost  every
situation.   The chain, connected Avith the muzzle,
by which it is drawn, fixed as far back as the coul-
ter, is not essential to its formation, serving merely
to strengthen  the beam, which  may  be  made
stronger of itself at less expense, Avhile the tillage
is as accurately performed with ploughs lhat have
none.  The price is from 50s. to 60s.   >
           Veitch's improved ploughs.
  Mr James Veitch.  of Inchbonny  near Jedburgh,
an ingenious artizan,  has made very considerable
improvements on the plough,  of which he  gives the
following  account:—" It is well known  lo  every
practical farmer, that land, when properly ploughed,
must be removed from a horizontal position, and
tivisted over to  a certain angle, so that it may be
left in that inclining state,one furrow leaning upon
another, till the whole field be completely plough-
ed.  The depth and width of the furrow which is
most approved of by farmers, and commonly to be
met with  in the best ploughed  fields, are in the pro-
portion of two to three; or if the furrow be two
feet  deep, it  must be three Avide, and left  in an
inclining position from 45 deg. to 46 deg.
  " Mr Small's plough is by far the best known
in this country; but the perpendicular position of
the sheath, and the too  sudden twist of the sock
and mould-board, together with  the  mould-board
not being a proper curve with respect to the different
resistance that the sock and mould-board will meet
with in ploughing stiff land, render it, in  many re-
spects, not so perfect an instrument as  could be
wished for. As the sock and fore part of the mould-
board, entering first into the  stiff land, meet with
the greatest resistance, and consequently must wear
soonest, to remedy this, I begin at the point  of the
sock, and bring it a great way farther forward than
lhat  of Small's, and by this means  give it a  more
oblique position; which diminishes the angle  of the
furrow's ascension from the horizontal to the ver-
tical position. The more this angle is diminished,
where it  meets Avith  the greatest resistance, the
less  apt will the plough be to tilt out of the  land;
and the nearer to the perpendicular the sheath and
sock are with respect  to the sole of the plough,
the less hold will it take of the land; and it will  be
more apt to start out.   If the point of the stock be
not made  to project a  great way below the  plane
of the sule, or point downwards toward the bottom
of the furrow,  the ploughs that are made in this
fashion grind away the  point of the sock beloAv;
and, as this point is so much inclined, and removed
froma parallel position with respect to the sole of
the plough, it increases the friction  to that part,
and makes the plough a great deal  more difficult to
draw.  This parallel position I have  preserved  in
my plough, as far as the strength ot cast-iron will
admit; and, as the furrows are laid parallel on one
another.  I have formed the sock, and that part of
the mould-board (where the furrow,  by twisting
over, is brought to the perpendicular), by cutting
away the  mould-board pattern,  in parallel  lines,
from the  sole  of  the plough  to  the  top of the 
HUSBANDRY.
315
mould-board; and, by these means, I both procure
a steadier motion for the plough, and also diminish
the friction, by diminishing the angle,  and  conse-
quently render it easier drawn,  and  less  apt to
break the furrow.
  " In the framing of this plough,  1  have propor-
tioned one part to another, so that all  parts of it
may Avear alike; the iron Avork is  fixed on  the
plough simply, and at the same time perfectly se-
cure.   I have likewise made a spring  steel yard,
to determine the difference of draught between
Small's plough  and the one which I have con-
structed. "
     Plough for cleaning beans and tunups.
  Besides the improved Rotherham plough, now in
general use, and worked by two horses, another
implement, constructed upon the same  principles^
but of smaller dimensions, and considerably light-
er,  is used for cleaning beans,  potatoes, and  tur-
nips.   This plough, wrought by one horse, does
the business completely.  It is of advantage to put
a piece of plate iron betwixt the coulter and  sheath
or head, that the loose earth may not fall through
upon  the  young plants.   A  horse shoe, called a
scraper, is also used to clean drilled crops on light
soils,  and is very efficacious when  annual  weeds
are to be destroyed; but when  quicken or other
root weeds are in the  ground, a deeper  furrow  is
required,  aud in that case the light Rotherham fur-
row becomes necessary.
         'The universal sowing machine.
  This machine, whether made to  be  worked by
hand, drawn by a horse, or fixed to a plough, and
used with it, is extremely simple in  its construc-
tion, and not liable to be put out of order; as there
is but one movement to direct the whole.   It will
sow wheat, barley,  oats, rye,  clover, coleseed,
hemp, flax, canary, rape,  turnip; besides a great
variety of other kinds of grain  and seeds, broad-
cast, with an  accuracy hitherto unknown.  It is
equally useful  when fixed to a plough; it will then
drill a more extensive variety of grain, pulse, and
seed,  (through  every  gradation,  with  regard  to
quality,) and deliver each kind  with greater regu-
larity, than any drill plough Avhatever.
  Among many other valuable  and peculiar pro-
perties, it will not only sow in the broad-cast way,
with  a most singular exactness, but save the ex-
pense of a seeds-man; the seed being sown (either
over  or under furrow at pleasure,) and the land
ploughed at the same operation.
  Another advantage attending  the use of this ma-
chine is, that the Avind can  have  no effect on the
falling of the seed.
  The machine, when made  to be used without a
plough, and to  be  drawn by a horse,  may be of
different  lengths.   The  upper part contains  the
hoppers,  from which  the grain or seed descends
into the spouts.  The several spouts all rest upon
a bar, which hangs and play s freely by tAvo diagonal
supporters; a trigger, fixed to this bar, bears a
catch wheel: this being fixed on the axle, occasions
a regular and continued motion, or jogging of the
spouts, quicker or slower in proportion to the space
the person  sowing with  it drives.  At the bottom
of  the machine is  placed an apron  or shelf, in a
sloping position, and the corn  or seed, by  falling
thereon from  the  spouts above, is scattered about
in every direction.
   To soav the  corn or  seed in drills, there  are
moveable spouts, Avhich  are fixed on, or taken off
at pleasure, to direct the seed from the upper spout
to the bottom  of the furrow.
                   Harrows.
   These beneficial implements are of various sizes
and dimensions; but the harrow most commonly
used  consists  of four bulls, with cross-mortised
sheaths, each bull containing five teeth, of from
five to seven inches in length below the bulls, the
longest  being placed forwards.   Harrows of this
kind, drawn by one horse, are generally  used  on
most farms for all purposes, though on others large
brake-harroAvs, consisting of five bulls, each con-
taining six teeth,  and worked by two  horses, are
employed during the  fallow process, and for reduc-
ing rough land.  Some of these brake-harrows are
constructed with joints,  so as to bend and accom-
modate their  shape to the curvature of ridges.  A
small harrow,  with  short teeth, is  also used for
covering grass seeds,  though we  have  rarely seen
any detriment from putting grass seeds as deep into
the ground as the teeth of ordinary sized  harrows
are capable of going.
        The best methods of harrowing.
  When employed to reduce a  strong obdurate
soil, not more than two harrows should be yoked
together, because they are apt to ride and tumble
upon each other,  and thus  impede the Avork, and
execute  it  imperfectly.  On rough soils,  harroAvs
ought to be driven as fast as the horses can  walk;
because  their effect is in direct proportion  to the
degree of velocity with which they are driven.  In
ordinary cases, and in every case where  harrowing
is meant for covering the seed, three harrows are
the best yoke, because they fill up the ground more
effectually, and leave fewer vacancies, than wheu
a smaller  number is employed.   The  harrow-
man's attention,  at the  seed process,  should  he
constantly  directed to prevent these implements
from  riding  upon each  ether, and to keep them
clear of every impedimer.t from  stones, lumps of
earth, or clods, and quickens or  grass roots; for
any of these  prevents the implement from  work-
ing with perfection,  and tauses  a mark or trail
upon the surface,  always unpleasing to the eye, and
generally detrimental to the braird  or vegetation
of the seed.  Harrowing is usually given in dif-
ferent directions, first in length,  then  across, and
finally in length as at first.  Careful husbandmen
study, in the  finishing part of the process, to have
the harrows drawn in a straight line, without suf-
fering the  horses to  go in a zig  zag manner, and
are also attentive  that the horses  enter fairly upon
the ridge, without making a curve at the outset.
In some instances, an excess of harrowing has
been found very prejudicial to the succeeding crop;
but it is always necessary  to  give so much as to
break the furrow, and level the surface, otherwise
the operation is imperfectly performed.
                    Rollers.
  The roller is an implement frequently  used for
smoothing the surface of land when in  tillage, es-
pecially when the processes of summer fallow are
going forward.  Several kinds of rollers  are used
in Britain.   Some are made of  stone, others  of
wood, according to the nature of  the operation in-
tended to be performed.  The only material dif-
ference in rollers is their weight; but it should be
attended to, when a roller is made of large diame-
ter, that its weight ought to be the greater;  for in
proportion to the largeness of its  diameter, will be
the extent of surface upon which the roller rests.
The weight  of a roller  ought therefore to be in
proportion to its diameter, otherwise its effect will
be proportionably diminished.
  Rolling, however,  is a  modern improvement,
and used for different purposes. In the first  place,
it is of great  advantage to roll young grasses after
the ground is  stoned,  because the scythe can then be
placed nearer the surface, and the crop cut more
equally  than when  the  operation  is  neglected.
2dly, Land on which turnips are  to  be cultivated
can rarely be made fine  enough, without the re-
peated use of this implement.   And 3dly, The 
316                          UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 process of summer fallow, upon  strong soils, is
 much advanced by rolling, because, Avithout its aid,
 tlie large and obdurate clods cannot be reduced, or
 couch-grass eradicated. From these circumstances
 it will  readily appear, thai rollers of various sizes
 and dimensions  are required  on every farm, for
 accomplishing different purposes. Wooden rollers,
 draAvn  by one horse, answer very well for grass and
 turnip  land;  but  massy stone rollers, drawn either
 by two or three horses,  are absolutely  necessary
 oil clay soils.
   It is obvious,  that  when  a  large field is to  be
 rolled,  a number of rollers oughl at once to be set
 at  work, otherwise an  opportunity may be lost,
 never to be regained.  The deficiency is most con-
 spicuous, when barley is  taken  after  turnips in a
 dry season.   From poaching the ground with carts,
 in order to carry   off the  crop,  and  eA-en by the
 treading of sheep, a degree of stiffness is contract-
 ed, which requires the use of the roller before grass
 seeds can be soavii.
   On all occasions  it is  most beneficial to roll
 across,  because, when  going in length, the imple-
 ment is of small benefit to the furrows, the slight-
 est acclivation of the ridges  preventing the  Avork
 from being equally performed.   The expedition
 which takes place ivhen rollers are used,  compared
 with the tedious and expensive  process of break-
 ing clods with malls, formerly the general custom,
 sufficiently proves the  importance of these imple-
 ments, though it  deserves to be remarked, that,
 when rolling is bestowed upon a spring-sown field,
 harrowing it  afterwards is of great advantage.  By
 harroiving when the clods  are reduced, the earth
 stands  the effects of rain better afterwards, and
 does not consolidate so firmly as Avhen that process
 is neglected.
             The  thrashing machine.
  The thrashing machine  is the most valuable im-
 plement in the farmer's possession, and one  which
 adds more to the general produce of the country,
 than any invention hitherto devised.   The saving
 of manual labour, thereby obtained, is almost in-
 calculable;  while the work is performed in a much
 more perfect manner than was formerly practica-
 ble,  even when the utmost care and exertion were
 bestowed.  In fact, had net the thrashing machine
 been invented, it  is hardly possible to conceive
 what would  have  been the rale of expense  of
 thrashing, or eA'en Avhether a sufficient number of
hands could,  at any rate of expense, have been ob-
 tained for thrashing the grain of the country.
  Since the erection of this machine, Mr Meikle
has progressively introduced a variety of improve-
 ments, all tending to simplify the labour, and  to
augment the quantity of  the  work  performed.
 When first erected, though the corn was equally
 well separated from the straw, yet as the whole of
the straw, chaff, and corn,  were indiscriminately
 thrown  into a confused heap, the work could only,
with propriety, be considered  as half executed.
 By the addition of rakes, or shakers, and two pair
 of fanners,  all driven by the same machinery, the
 different processes of thrashing, shaking, and win-
 nowing, are now all  at once  performed, and the
corn immediately  prepared for the public market.
 When it is added, that the quantity of corn gained
from the superior powers of the machine is fully
 equal to a twentieth part of the crop, and that, in
 some cases, the expense of thrashing and cleaning
 the corn is  considerably less than  what was for-
 merly paid for cleaning it  alone,  the immense sav-
 ings arising from the  invention will  at once be
 seen.
  The expense of horse labour, from the  increased
 value of the animal, and the charge of his keeping,
 being an object of great importance, it is recom-
 mended that, upon all sizeable farms, that is u
 say, where two hundred acres, or upwards, of corn
 are sown, the machine should be wrought by wind,
 unless  where local circumstances afford the cou-
 veniency of water.
   Where coals are plenty and cheap, steam may
 be advantageously used for working the machine.
 A respectable farmer, in  the  county of East Lo-
 thian, works his machine in this way; and,  being
 situated in the neighbourhood  of a  colliery, he is
 enabled to thrash his grain at a trifling expense.
      Method of treading corn in Virginia.
   In Virginia and otlier countries wheat is trodden
 out by horses, nearly in the same  way as it was
 formerly done in Palestine by  oxen.
   The treading floors are generally from 60 to 100
feel diameter; but the  larger their diameter is, so
 much easier is the work to the horses.   The track,
 or path, on which the sheaves are  laid,  and on
 which the horses Avalk, is  from 12 to 24 feet  wide,
 or more.  The floors are  commonly  enclosed by
 fences; and the horses are generally driven between
 them promiscuously and loose, each  pressing to be
 foremost, so that fresh air may be obtained,—
 biting,  jostling, and kicking each other with ihe
 greatest fury.  The labour in this way is extremely
 severe.  Upon some small floors a centre-stick is
 placed, to which hangs a rope, or a pole and swivel,
 and four or five  horses being fastened together,
 travel round upon the sheaves with the utmost re-
 gularity.  Previously  to laying down the wheat
 sheaves, the state of the air, and the  probability
 of its-continuing dry through the day, is fully con-
 sidered. If they resolve to tread, the morning i3
suffered to pass away till the dew is removed.  A
row of sheaves is first laid upon the floors with the
heads and butts in a line across the tract of  it, as
a bolster for  receiving other  sheaves; and  these
sheaves range ivith the path, or circle, the butts
resting on the floor.  Other sheaves are ranged in
like manner, with the heads raised on the former,
till the Avhole floor is filled, when it appears to be
filled Avith nothing but ears of wheat, sloping a
little upwards.   Upon  laying down each sheaf, the
band thereof is cut with a knife.  A west  Avind is
always  desirable while treading  is  going on, as
when wind is from  the eastward, dampness gene-
rally prevails.
  In some instances, tAventy-four horses are form-
ed at some distance from the floor into four ranks;
and when the floor is ready laid, the word is given
to advance.  P'or  the  sake of order and regular
work, a boy mounted on one of the foremost horses
advances in a walk with the whole rank haltered
or tied together, and enters upon the bed, of wheat,
Avalking the horses slowly over it; another rank is
ordered  to follow as soon as the first  is supposed
to have obtained a distance equal to a fourth part
of the circumference of the bed, and in the  same
manner the other ranks proceed.  They are for-
bidden to go past a Avalk, till they have proceeded
5 or 6 rounds, when the word is given to move al
a sober trot, and to  keep their ranks at a full dis-
tance  from each  other, regularity and deliberate
movement  being  necessary for preventing confu-
sion.  The gentle trot is continued till it may be
supposed the horses haA'e  travelled 8 or 9 miles,
which is the extent of their first journey; they are
then led off to be foddered and watered, when the
trodden light straw is taken off as deep as the place
where the sheaves lie close, and are but partially
bruised.
  As soon as tliis first straw is  removed, one-third
of the Avidth of the bed is turned over on the other
two-thirds from the inner side or circle of ihe bed,
which narrows the neck of the next journey.  The
horses are again led on, and trot out their second 
HUSBANDRY.
317
 journey, till  the  straw  be clear of wheat.  The
 outer partof the Led is then turned upon the mid-
 tile part, when  the  horses take  another journey.
 The loose straw being then taken  off, tne  whole
 remaining bed  is turned  up from the floor, and
 shaken with  forks,  and handles of  rakes,  alter
 which the horses give another tread, which finishes
 the work.  The grain is then shoved up from the
 floor Avith the heads of rakes turned downwards,
 and put  into heaps of a conical form, in  which
 situation it often remains exposed  to the weather
 for several days.  The correct American  agricul-
 turists, hoAvever,  have  houses adjoining to the
 treading floor, where the grain is deposited till it
 is cleared from  the chaff and offal; though as most
 of them continue  treading, if the  weather be fa-
 vourable, till the whole crop is separated from the
 straw, it is pretty obvious that the  grain  stands a
 considerable chance of being damaged before the
 several processes are concluded.
                   Fanners.
   If thrashing machines are of much adiantage to
 the public, by separating corn completely from the
 straw, the introduction of fanners, or the machine
 by which corn is cleaned from chaff, and all sorts
 of offal, may, with justice, be considered as pro-
 portionally of equal benefit to the  practical agri-
 culturist.
   Since thrashing machines were introduced, fan-
 ners almost in every case are annexed to them, and
 in some instances, where poAverful machines are
 used,  fitted internally with suitable riddles, it is
 perfectly  practicable to measure  and market the
 grain immediately as it comes from the machine.
                  Manures.
   The term manure is applied indiscriminately to
 all substances, Avhich are  known  from experience
 either to enrich  the  different soils, or  contribute
 in any other way to vender them  more  favourable
 to vegetation.
   In an agricultural point of view, the  subject  of
 manures is  of the first  magnitude.  To correct
 what is hurtful to vegetation in the different soils,
 and to restore Avhat is lost by exhausting crops,
 are operations in agriculture which may  be com-
 pared to the curing of diseases in the animal body,
 or supplying the waste occasioned by labour.
        To manage dung upon light lands.
   For soils of this description, where  turnips are
 taken as a first crop, dung  can  hardly be too Avell
 prepared; because  the nature of the  crop, to which
 it is applied, renders a complete  incorporation
 with  the ground  absolutely necessary;  without
 irhich the young plants might be starved at their
 very entrance into life.  In the best  farmed En-
 glish counties, dung is often kept more than a year,
 in order that it may be perfectly rotted.
   In general there is not much difficulty in prepar-
 ing dung upon turnip farms; because, in the  driest
 season, from the nature of the food used, such a
 quantity of liquid  passes from the animals, as to
 prevent  burning,  provincially fire-fanging, the
 greatest obstacle to the rotting of  dung that can  be
 experienced.  If turnip dung is regularly removed,
 if it is properly mixed with the horse  litter, and
 Other excrementitious matter accumulated upon
 the farm, it will be fodnd an easy task  to prepare
 all that is made  by the middle ot  April, at which
 time the  fold-yard should be  cleared.  What is
 produced after that time should be stored up sepa-'
 ratelv, receive waterings if the weather is dry, and
 be reserved for clover-stubbles, or other fields that
are to be dunged in autumn.
  The middle of April is a good  time for clearing
the fold-yard; but this does not prevent the work
from going partially forward through  the  winter,
when suitable opportunities occur.
   When  driven  out of the fold-yard, the dung
 should  be laid up in a regular heap  or pile, not
 exceeding six quarters, or four feet and a half rn
 height; and cart, should be taken  not to put either
 horse or cart upon it, which  is easily  avoided by
 backing the cart  to the pile, and laying the dung
 compactly together with a g-ape  or  fork.  It is
 also useful to face up the extremities  with earth,
 which keeps in the moisture, aud  prevents the sun
 and wind  from doing  injury.   Perhaps  a  small
 quantity of earth strewed upon the top might also
 prove useful.   Dung, when managed in this man-
 ner, generally ferments very rapidly;  but if it is
 discovered to be in a backward state, a complete
 turn over,  about the 1st of Mav, Avhenthe weather
 becomes warm, will quicken the process;  and the
 better it is shaken asunder, the sooner will the ob-
 ject in  view be accomplished.
   A secluded spot of ground, not much exposed to
 wind, and  perfectly secure from being floated with
 Avater, ought always to be chosen for the site of
 such piles  or heaps.  If the field to which it is to
 be applied is at hand, a little after-trouble may be
 saved by depositing  it there in the first instance.
 But it is found most convenient to reserve a piece of
 ground adjacent to the homestead for this purpose.
 There  it is always under the farmer's eye, and a
 greater quantity can be moved in a shorter time
 than when the  situation is more distant.  Besides,
 in wet Aveather (and this is generally the time cho-
 sen for  such an operation), the  roads  are not only
 cut up  by  driving to a  distance, but the field on
 winch the heap is made, may be poached and in-
jured considerably.
               Upon heavy lands.
   Upon clay soils, where wheat forms a principal
 part, of the crop, where great quantities ot" beans are
 cultivated, and few turnips soAvn, unless for the use
 of milch cows, the  rotting  of dung is not only a
 troublesome but an expensive affair.  Independent
 of what is consumed by the  ordinary  farm stock,
 the overplus of the straw must, somehow or other,
 be rotted, by lean  cattle kept in the fold-yard, who
 eiMier receive the straw  in racks, or have itthrown
 across the  yard, to be eaten and trodden down by
 them.   Accoivling to this mode of consumption, it
 is evident that a still greater necessity arises for a
 frequent removal  of  this unmade dung; otherwise,
 from the trampling of beasts, and the usual want of
 moisture, it would compress so much as altogether
 to  prevent putrefaction.  To prepare dung suffi-
 ciently  upon farms  of  this  description, is at all
 times an arduous task,  but scarcely practicable in
 dry seasons;  for if it once gets burnt (fire-fanged),
 it  is almost physically impossible to bring it into .1
suitable state Of preparation afterwards; and, at all
events, its virtues are thereby considerably dimin-
ished.
  Straw flung out in considerable portions to the
fold-yard, after being compressed by the trampling
of cattle, becomes rather like a Avell-packed stack,
than a mass of dung in  a preparatory state.  The
small quantity of water and dung made by the ani-
mals is  barely sufficient to cause a  slight fermenta-
tion; and this slight fermentation, when the heap
gets into a  compressed  stale, is sure to bring on
hre-fang, as already said, after which, its original
powers  can rarely be restored.  To prevent such
an injury, no measure can be so successfully used,
as a frequent removal of this unirikle dung, espe-
cially if the weather is Avetatthe time.   It people
can stand out to work, there  cannot be too much
Avetness while executing this operation; for there
is  always such a quantity of the straw that has not
passed through the entrails of the cattle, as render^
it almost impossible to do injury, in the  first in-
stance, by an excess of moisture.
                                  a £ 2 
'318
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
  It is therefore recommended, upon even' clay- l
land farm, especially those of considerable size,
that the fold-yard be frequently cleared;  and that
the greatest  care be taken to mix the stable or
horse-dung in a regular Avay with what is gathered
in the fold-yard, or  made by other  animals, in I
order that a  gradual heat or fermentation may be
speedily produced.   Where the materials are of
the sorts now described, (that is, a small quantity
of dung, or excrementitious matter,  and a  large
store of unrotten straw, only partially  moistened),
no damage can ensue from putting horses and carls
Upon the heap; nay, a positive benefit will be gain-
ed from this slight compression.
  The heap  or pile, in the case of turnip dung,
should be formed in a steluded spot, if such can be
got at hand; because the less it is exposed to the
influence of the sun and wind, so much faster will
fermentation  proceed.  It should be constructed on
a broad basis, which lessens the bounds of the ex-
tremities; and separate heaps are necessary, so that
too much may not be deposited  at once.  By  shift-
ing the scene frequently, and allowing each cover- j
ing or coat to settle and ferment, before laying on j
any more, the most happy effects will  follow, and
these heaps (at least all such as  are completed be-
fore the first of May), may reasonably be expected
lo be in a fit condition for applying lo the summer
Tallow fields, in the end of July,  or first of August.
If the external parts get dry at any time during the
process, it will be proper to water them thorough-
ly, and in  many cases to turn over the heap  com-
pletely.   It may be  added,  that much benefit has
been experienced from laying a thick coating of
siioav upon such heaps,  as, by the gradual melting
thereof, the Avhole  moisture is absorbed,  and a
strong ;ermentation  immediately follows.
  Upon large farms, where the management of
manure is sufficiently understood and practised, it
is an  important matter to  have dunghills of all
ages, and  ready ftr- use  whenever the  situation of
afield calls  for a restorative.  No method of ap-
plication to clay soils, however, is so beneficial as
during the \ear of summer  fallow, though in such
situations, a greater stock of manure is often ga-
thered  than is required for the fidds under this
process.
  As to the proper  quantity of dung  to be used,
no greater quantity ought to be given at one time
than is sufficient to  fructify the ground;  in other
words, to render it capable of producing  good
crops, before  the time  arrives  when a fresh dose
can be administered.
            The spreading of dung.
  The increased attention now bestoAved, in all the
cultivated districts, to the spreading of dung, ori-
ginated from the measure of limiting the quantity
applied.   When 40, 50, nay even 60 double  loads
« ere applied  to an  acre, it was not very difficult
to cover its surface, even with an imperfect  sepa-
ration, though  it  certainly was impracticable to
bury the big lumps with a furrow of ordinary size;
but when tlie quantity was brought down to 18 and
20 l.>ads, and, more so, when.12 or 14 loads were
thought sufficient, a  different conduct  became ab-
solutely necessary.   Another improvement  also
followed, viz. spreading dung when raw or green,
that is, immediately after the carts; in  which way,
at least duringinmraer,  it will be separated at one
half the expensjE and fo  much better purpose, than
when  it is sufered to lay in the heap for a day or
Iavo.  In short, it is a sure mark of a slovenly far-
mer, to see dung remain unspread in ^i field, un-
less it be  in the winter months, when it may hap-
pen lhat hands cannot be got tor carrying on such
operations with the usual regularity. At that time
the injury sustained by losing a few days is not
  great, though as a general role it will be found that
  the expense is always smallest when the carts are
  regularly followed up.
          Application of dung to turnips.
    When turnip husbandry forms the chief branch
  of fallow process, dung is naturally of a superior
  quality, and  requires little artificial management
  tor bringing it to a proper slate of preparation.  In
  the greatest part of Scotland, and even in England,
  where the drill and horse-hoeing system is prac-
  tised, the common, and undoubtedly the most ap-
  proved, way of applying dung to turnips, is  by lay-
  ing it in  the intervals of the drills or small  ridges,
  which are  previously made up by  a bout, or two
  furrows of the plough.   These drills or ridges are
  formed at a distance of from 24 to 30  inches  from
  the centre of each; and by driving the  horses and
  cart along the middle one of the space intended to be
  manured, the dung is drawn out either by the car-
 ter, or by another man specially appointed for that
  purpose, iu such  proportions as the poverty of the
  soil, or the disposition of the occupier, may  reckon
  necessary.   If the breadth of three  drills are only
 taken at a time,  the dung stands a better  chance
  of being regularly administered; for it often  hap-
  pens, that when a greater number are included in
 one  space, the two  outside drills  receive a less
 quantity than the intervening ones.   Those, there-
 fore, who limit themselves to three drills, gene-
  rally divide the spreaders; as it requires six hands,
  Avomen or boys, to follow up Avhat is usually called
 a head of carts,  the number of-carts to a head being
 regulated by the distance  of the dung-hill, or the
| kind of road over which it is to be carried.
I   The quantity of dung usually given  for  turnips
 is from   12 to 15 double cart loads, of one and a
 half cubic yards  each, to  a Scots acre.  In some
 cases only 10 loads are given: but the land ought to
 be in high condition  where such  a  small quantity
 is bestowed.  In  fact,  no  soil can be made too,
 rich for turnips or other green crops, peas except-
 ed; but  the object to be  attended  to in this, and
 every other case,  is an allotment of the manure
 collected upon the premises, in such a way as that
 the greatest  possible return over the whole farm,
 not from a particular field, may be  gained  by the
 occupier.
         Application of dung to potatoes.
   The culture is in several respects  similar to that
 of turnips, but in others it differs  materially.  Po-
 tatoes are planted earlier  in  the season than tur-
 nips:  the ground rarely receives so much  Avork;
 the soils  upon which they  are cultivated are more
 variable; and the dung considered to be most suit-
 able for promoting their growth, does not require
 such high preparation.   Many farmers, notwith-
 standing  these circumstances, follow out the same
 process  as  described  under the head  of turnips.
 After the ground receives  three, or at ntost  four
 ploughings, the drills are made up,  dung deposit-
 ed in the intervals,  the seed  planted above the
 dung, and the drills reversed; after  which,  say  at
 the distance of 2 or 3 weeks, a slight harrowing is
 given.  They avoid making up drills, but du-.ig the '
 ground in Avhatmay be  called the broad-cast way;
 and, entering the plough, plant the  seed in every
 third furrow, into which only the dung is  raked;
 and so on till the whole is "finished.  Before the
 young plants appear, or even after they are above
 the surface, a complete harrowing is given, which is
 considered as equal to a hand-hoeingt and from the
 dung being completely covered, scarce any of it is
 dragged up,  while the seed, being  undermost,
 none of it is disturbed by the operation.  Several
 farmers do  not dung their  potatoe fields; but, re-
 serving the manure till the crop is  removed,  find
 the remai nder of the rotation greatly benefited.  Po 
HUSBANDRY.
319
tatoes scourge severely, and, in general cases, re-
quire a larger quantity of dung than turnips; but,
as the extent of land under this culture is not great
in common  farming, few people grudge this extra
quantity, because, except in a few favoured situa-
tions, a good crop cannot otherwise be reasonably
expected.
             To manure clayey soils.
   Upon all soils incumbent on a  wet or close bot-
tom, whether characterized as clay, loam, or moor,
it may be laid down as a primary principle, that
dung cannot be  so profitably applied, as while the
ground is under the process of summer fallow.
   When the ground is under the process of sum-
mer fallow, it is then the best and most appropri-
ate time  for applying manure to clay soils.   When
under this process, the  soil, comparatively speak-
ing, is reduced into minute particles, which affords I
an opportunity of conveying the virtues of manure !
through  the  veins or pores of  all its  parts.  The j
soil, at that time, is also freed  from  its aboriginal >
inhabitants, quickens and other  root  weeds, who I
claim a preferable right of support; hence the arti- ;
ficial plants,  aftenvards cultivated, possess, with-
out a rival, such supplies as have been  granted,
Avithout any deduction whatever.   In short, with-
out laying an}" stress upon elementary effects dur-
ing the process, it does not admit ofa doubt, that
 the same quantity of manure,  bestowed  upon tne
 ground  when summer fallowed,  will   produce
a greater return to the occupier, than if ic had been
 applied at any other stage of the rotation.
   Dung  should not be laid upn fallows before they
 are completely cleaned: though,  no  doubt,  in wet
 summers, that operation is not easily accomplished.
   To  make sure work,  the fallows, if possible
 should be early stirred, and no opportunity slipped
 of putting them forward with the utmost expedi-
 tion; for it rarely happens, that much  good  can be
 done towards the destruction  of root-iveeds after
 the month of July.  Before  that time a  judicious
 farmer will  have  his falloAV dressed  up, and in  a
 suitable  state for receiving dung.  It should be well
 harrOAved, if the  Aveather is favourable,  previous
 to the dung  being laid  on; and if rolled, or made
 smooth, the spreaders  will be enabled to perform
 their task with much more precision.
   At the proper season every other operation ought
 to be laid aside, so that dung may be expeditiously
 drove out.  To do it in wet weather is attended with
 pernicious effects; the horses are oppressed, a long-
 er lime  is  required, the land is poached,  and  in
 some measure deprived, of all benefit from the pre-
 vious fallow.  These circumstances  will be reflect-
 ed upon by the attentive farmer; they will stimu-
 late him not to lose a moment when the weather  is
 favourable,  and prevent him from forcing  on  the
 work, when injury, rather  than benefit, may be
 expected.   After all, seasons are"  sometimes  so
 perverse; as to render every rule nugatory.  These
 must, however, be  taken as they come; avoiding  at
 such times to break the land down,'acclivating the
 ridges sufficiently,  and keeping the  water-furrows
 completely clear.
           Quantity of dung for fallows.
    The quantity of dung usually  applied to fallows
  in ordinary condition is from fourteen to  twenty
 double  loads per acre; though often good crops are
  reaped  when twelve  loads  only had been given.
  Much,  however, depends upon the condition of
  the land, upon the quality of the dung, and the way
  in which the carts are loaded.  A decent load may
  contain  one cubic yard  and  three-fourths, and
  weigh a ton, or thereabout.   It  also  deserves no-
  tice, that  less dung will serve some lands than
 others,  especially if they have lately been plough-
 ed from p-rass; but,  at all events, sixteen such loads,
as are mentioned, will ansAver for any sort of soil,
unless it has been previously quite  wrought out.
Even if it were in this  fin-lorn state,  it is  better
management to dung upon the stubble of the first
crop, than to give an over-dose when  under sum-
mer fallow.
          Time of spreading the dung.
  All dung laid upon  summer fallow  ought to be
spread the moment it is pulled out of the cart.  It
can at no other time be done so well, or so cheap;
though on many farms, small ones especially, where
a  full  supply of hands  are  wanting, this  bene-
ficial practice is much neglected. Four spreaders,
boys or girls, with an attentive overs man to  follow
up and supply any omissions, are sufficient for one
head of carts; the number included in a head beini;
regulated by the distance of the field from the dung-
hill.  Some farmers employ a person,  on  Avhom
they can depend,  to draw the dung from the cart,
who has judgment to  proportion  it according lo
circumstances, and is responsible for any failure in
the execution: but the carter is the person usually
employed, though, unless a boy is given  him to
drive, a regular distribution can hardly be expect-
ed.  To insure accuracy in laying down, fields are
sometimes thrown into a dam-broad figure; and, a
heap being drawn out into each square,  you could
have nearly ascertained the quantity required for
the whole.   The  great object,  after a  regular and
economical distribution,  is to  shake and part the
whole completely; as, by minute attention to  this
circumstance,  a  much greater effect is necessarily
produced.
              Intermediate dunging.
   After the fallows are dunged, the remainder  in
hand is reserved for what may be called Che inter-
mediate dunging, generally bestowed  either upon
clover stubbles, upon wheat stubbles, previously to
taking beans, or upon bean stubbles be^re the seed
furrow is given for wheat.  It  is obvious, that the
farmer must  be  regulated, in this intermediate
dunging,  by the Aveather  at  the time, though it
rarely happens but that dung may be got out upon
cloA'er stubbles at one time of the Avinter or otlier.
When applied to beans, a beneficial practice, the
dung, as we said above, is by some people laid upon
the wheat stubble, and ploughed down before \f in-
ter; hence it is in full action  in the spring, when
the seed furrow  is given.  Others make up drills
at seed time, depositing the dung in the intervals,
as for turnips or  potatoes; but il seldom occurs that
 weather can then be got, at least on real bean soils,
for executing this management.
   Many arable farms, under ihe strictest economy,
are unable to furnish supplies for an intermediate
dunging, at least to its full extent:  but  persons so
circumstanced have it  always in their power to
 overcome this defect, and preserve a regular rota-
tion, by keeping certain fields longer in grass,
 which of course  will  yield  weightier crops when
 broken up, and stand less in need of manure during
 the after rotation.  As. for instance, in a rotation
 of six, and it is here that the greatest short-coming
 is felt,  glass seeds  to a certain extent,  say a half,
 may be thrown in with  the crop of  wheat taken
 after fallow, which  is the second year of the rota-
 tion; tliis part may be pastured for three years, and
 broken up in the sixth for oats, Avhich concludes the
 course.  Again in a rotation of eight,  grass-seeds,
 in like manner, may be  sown  with a jjart of  the
 fallow  wheat, which part can be pastured for three
 years, then broken up for oats, succeeded by beans
 and wheat.  By such arrangements, made accord-
 ing to circumstances, it is an easy matter to  pre-
 serve a regular rotation, and to proportion the corri
 crops, to the  auantity of manure collected upon
 the premises. 
  320                           UNIVERSAL 1

     To increase the quantity of dung by soiling.
    The practice of soiling, or feeding horses or cat-
  tle in the house or farm-yard, is  eminently calcu-
  lated to increase the quantity of manure upon every
  farm, and to improve its quality.
    The soiling of horses, in the  summer months,
  on green clover and rye-grass, is a practice which
  prevails in every corn  district, where farm labour
  is regularly executed.   .The utility of the prac-
  tice does not need the  support of argument; for it
  is not only economical  to  the fanner, but saves
  much  fatigue to the  poor animal:  besides, the
  quantity of dung thereby gathered is considerable.
    Oxen and cows, of all sorts, might be supported
  and led in like manner, during the whole of the
  grass season.  It is  well known  that  milch-cows
  have, in several instances, been so kept; but it has
  rarely happened, that other descriptions of cattle
  have been  fed for the  butcher according  to this
  mode, though it is perfectly practicable.
   The chief benefit of soiling may be considered as
  arising from  the  immense quantity of fine dung
  Avliich Avould  thus be accumulated, and Avhich can
  be returned to the ground  in the succeeding sea-
  son, after being properly fermented and prepared.
 In all corn-farms, at least those of clayey soils, it is
 a work of great difficulty to rot the straw produced
 upon it; a"nd much  of  it is  misapplied, in conse-
 quence of  such soils being naturally unlit for rais-
 ing green winter-crops.
   (fa numerous stock of cattle were kept either in
 the house, or in separate divisions of the fold-yard,
 ail the straw threshed in the summer months might
 be immediately converted into dung, the quality of
 which would-be equal,  if not superior, to ivhat is
 made from turnips consumed at the stake.
   Dung is the mother of good crops; and it appears
 lhat no plan can he devised by which a large quan-
 tity can be so easily and  cheaply gathered, or by
 which straw can be so effectually rotted and ren-
 dered beneficial to the occupier of a clay-laud farm,
 as the soiling of grass in the summer  season.  Iu
 a word, the dung of animals fed upon green clover,
 may justly be reckoned  the richest of all dung.   It
 may, from the circumstances of the season,  be ra-
 pidly prepared, and  may be applied to the ground
 at a very early period, much earlier than any other
 sort of dung can be used with advantage.
               'To moke composts.
  The use t r manure, in the shape of compost, or
 ingredients of various qualities, mixed together in !
 certain proportions, has  long been a favourite prac- '
 tice with many farmers: though it is only in par- ;
 ticular situations that the practice can  be exten- !
 sively  or  profitably  executed.   The  ingredients j
 used iu these composts are uhiefly earth and lime; !
 sometimes dung, where the earth is poor; but lime j
 may be regarded as the  main agent of the process,
 acting as a stimulus for bringing the powers of the
 iieap into action.  Lime, in this view, may be con-
 sidered as a kind of yeast, operating upon a heap
 of earth  as yeast does  upon flour or meal.   It is
 obvious, therefore, that unless a sufficient quantity
 is g'ven, the heap may remain unfermented:  in
 which case little benefit  will be derived from it as
 a manure.
  The best kind of earth for compost is that of
 the alluvial sort, Avhich is always of a rich greasy
 substance, often mixed with marl, and in every re-
 spect calculated to enrich aud  invigorate  barren
 soils, especially if they are of a light  and  open
texture. Old yards, deep head-lands, and scourings
 jf ditches,  offer themselves  as the basis of com-
post middens;  but it is  proper to summer fallow
ihem before hand, so that they may be entirely free
of weeds.   When the lime is mixed wilh the soil
of these middens, repeated turnings are necessary,
1ECEIPT BOOK.

 I; that the whole may be suitably fermented; and snmi
 I care is required to apply the fermented mass at t
 j proper time to the field on Avhich it is to be used.
    The benefit of such a compost in nourishing soils
 I is even greater  than  what is gained by dressiug
 : them  with dung.
 i I/jrd M'adowbank's directions for making com-
                 post of peat-moss.
 I   Let the peat moss, of which  compost is to be
  formed, be thrown out of the pit for some  weeks
 I or months, in order to lose its redundant  moisture.
 | By this means, it is rendered the lighter to  carry,
  and less compact and  weighty, when made up Avi'th
 I fresh dung for fermentation;  and, accordingly, less
  dung is required for the purpose, than if the pre-
  paration is made Avith peat taken  recently from the
  pit.   The peat taken from near the surface, or at
  a  considerable depth, answers equally well.
I    Take the peat moss to a dr}' spot convenient for
I: constructing a dunghill  to serve the  field  to  be
  manured.  Lay  the cart-loads of it in two  rows,
 i and of the dung in a toav betwixt them.  The dung
 | thus lies nearly  on  an area of the future compost
 \ dunghill, and the  rows of  peat should be near
  enough each  other, lhat workmen, in making up
 | the compost, msy be able to throw them together by
  the spade. In  making up, let the ivorkmeu begin at
 I one end; and,  at the extremity of the row of  dung,
  (wuich should not  extend quite so far at that end
 I as the  rows of peats on each side of it do,) let them
 j lay a bottom of  peat, six incnes deep  and fifteen
  feet  wide, if the grounds admit of it; then  throw
 | forward, and lay on, about ten inches of peat  above
  the bottom of peat; then add from the side rows
  about six inches of peat; then four or five of  dung,
 i and then six.more of peat; then another thin layer
 I of dung; and  then  cover it over with peat at tlie
 end  where  it was  begun, at the two sides, and
 above.  The compost should  not  be raised  above
 four feet, or four feet  and a half high; otherwise it
 is  apt to press too heavily on  the  under parts, and
 check  the  fermentation.  When a beginning -is
 thus made,  the  workmen  will proceed  working
 backwards, and adding to the columns of  compost,
 as they are furnished  with  the three roivs of ma-
 terials directed to be laid down for them.  They
 must take care not to tread oh  the compost, or
 render it too  compact; and,  in proportion as the
 peat is Avet,  it should be  made up in lumps, and
 not much broken.
   In mild Aveather,  seven  cart-loads of  common
 farm-dung, tolerably fresh made,  is sufficient for
 twenty-one cart-loads of peat moss; but iu  cold
 weather, a larger proportion of dung is desirable.
 To every twenty-eight carts of the compost,  wheu
 made up, it is of use to throw on, above it, a  cart-
 load  of ashes,  either  made from coal,  peat,  or
 wood; half the quantity of slacked lime, the  more
 finely powdered the better.
   The  compost,  after it  is made up, gets into a
 general heat,  sooner  or  later,  according to tl*e
 weather, and the condition of the  dung.   In  sum-
 mer, iu ten days  or sooner; in Avinter, not perhaps
 for many Aveeks,  if the cold is severe.  In the for-
 mer season, a stick should be kept  in it in different
 parts, to pull out and feel now and then;  for, if it
 approaches blood-heat, it should either be watered
 or turned over: and, on such an occasion, advantage
 may  be taken to mix Avith it a little fresh moss.
 The heat subsides after a time, and with great va-
 riety, according to the weather, the dung, and tlie
 perfection of the compost; which should  then be
 alloAved to be untouched,  till  within three weeks
 of  using, when it should be  turned  over upside
 down, and outside in, and all lumps broken:  then
 it comes  into a second heat;  but soon cools, ami
 should  be taken out  for use.  In this  state the 
HUSBANDRY.
321
 whole, except bits  of the old decayed wood, ap-
 pears a black free mass, and spreads like garden
 mould.  Use it weight  for  weight,  as farm-yard
 dung;  and  it will be found, in a course of cropping,
 fully to stand the comparison.
   Peat, nearly as dry as garden-mould in seed-
 time, may be mixed with the dung, so as to double
 the volume and more of it.  Workmen must begin
 with using layers;  but, when  accustomed to the
 just proportions, if they are furnished with peat
 moderately dry, and, dung not  lost in litter, they
 throw  it up together as  a mixed mass, and make a
 less proportion of dung serve for the preparation.
   The rich coarse earth, which is frequently found
 on the  surface of peat, is too heavy '„<> be admitted
 into this compost; but it makes  an excellent top-
 dressing, if previously mixed and turned over with
 lime.
 Dr Rennie's method of converting moss into ma-
                     nure.
   The importance of moss as  a  manure is iioav
 generally admitted by all who have had an oppor-
 tunity of making experiments on that subject,  f he
 Rev. Dr Rennie, of  Kilsyth, having proved  the
 utility  of filtration, has  recommended,  in private
 letters, to  water the  collected heap  of moss for
 about ten days, once each day, very copiously; and
 when that is done, to trim it up to a compact body,
 allow it to  dry, and to  receive a gentle degree of
 heat.  The degree of heat  necessary for accom-
 plishing that  end, is sufficient, though not disco-
 verable by  the hand.  If it only afi'ects the ther-
 mometer a little, it is declared  to be a manure.
 The Doctor  also  declares, that moss can be con-
 verted  by  filtrating  steam  through it;  and  more
 expeditiously still,  by  exposing it to a running
 stream of water.  If the water penetrates the moss,
 it expels its poisonous qualities sooner and more
 effectually  than any  other  mode ever devised.
 When  it is  sufficiently purified by any of these
 means, it m-ist  be laid up to dry, and is in a short
 lime ready for applying  to the land.
             Use of lime as  manure.
  This mineral, alter undergoing the process of
 calcination, has long been applied by British hus-
 bandmen as a stimulus to the soil, and, in conse-
 quence of such an application, luxuriant crops have
 been produced, even upon soils  apparently of in-
 ferior quality, and which Avould have yielded crops
 of trifling value, had this auxiliary been withheld.
 In faet, the majority of  soils cannot be  cultivated
 with advantage  till tl*ey are dressed with lime;
 and whether this beneficial effect shall  be consid-
 ered as an alterative,  or as a  stimulant, or as a
 manure,  it will be found to be the basis of good
 husbandry, and of more use than  all other manures
put together.   Wherever lime has been properly
 applied, it has  constantly been  found to prove as
 much superior to dung,  as  dung is to the  rakiugs
 of roads, or the produce of peat mire.
  In respect of operation, it is immaterial whether
 lime be used  upon grass land or summer-fallow.
 Upon old  grass  land, it is perhaps best to plough
 first, and to  summer-falloAV  in  the second year,
 when lime can be applied.  On  new and clean
grass land, it may be limed  at the outset, tl at is,
 before the plough is admitted.
  To lime  moorish soils is  a hazardous business,
 unless dung is likewise bestowed: but to repeat the
 application upon such soils, especially if they have
 been severely cropped,  is almost a certain loss; a
 compost of lime and  rich earth is, in such cases,
 the only substitute.
  Strong loams and  clays  require a full dose to
 bring them into  action;  such soils being  capable
of absorbing  a greater quantity of calcareous mat-
ter.  Lighter soils, however, reuufre less lime to ,
      20.
  stimulate them, and  may be injured by  adminis-
  tering a  quantity that would  prove moderately
  beneficial to those of a heavv nature.
    Upon fresh land, or land in a proper state for  a
  calcareous application, lime  is much superior to
  dung. Its effects continue for a longer period; while
  the  crops  produced are of a superior kind, and
  less susceptible of injury from  the excesses ot
  drought and moisture.  Finally, the ground, par-
  ticularly what is of a strong nature, is much easier
  wrought;  and, in  many  instances,  the saving of
  labour would almost tempt a judicious farmer to
  lime his land, were no greater benefit derived from
  the application than the opportunity thereby gained
j  of working it in a perfect manner.
|   It may be added, that though strong soils require
j  to be animated with a strong dose of lime, those
1  of a light  texture will do well with little more lhan
  half the quantity requisite on the others, especially
:  if they are fresh, or have not already received an
  application of calcareous matter.
               Application of marl.
   In many parts of this island, the value of land
j  has been much augmented by the application of
1  marl.  Treating of this article in a practical way,
|  it may be divided into shell-marl  and earth-marl.
|  Shell-marl is composed of animal shells dissolved;
  earth-marl is a fossil.   The colour of the latter is
 various; its hardness being sometimes soft  and due-
 tile, like clay; sometimes hard and  solid, like stoneji
 and sometimes it is  extended into thin beds, like-
 slate.  Shell-marl is  easily distinguished by the
 shells, which always appear in it: but the similarity
 betwixt earth-marl and  many  other  fossil sub-
 stances, renders it difficult to distinguish them.
   Shell-marl is very  different in its nature from
 clayey and  stone marls, and from its effects upon
 the soil,  is commonly classed  among the animal
 manures: it does  not dissolve with water as the
 other marls do.  It sucks it up, and swells with it
 like  a sponge. Dr Home says,  that il takes six
 times more of acids to saturate it, than any of the s
 other marls which he had met with. But the great-
 est difference betAvixt  the shell-inarl and the other
 marls consists in this, the shell-marl contains oils.
 It is uncertain  if the other marls contain any oils;
 but this kind contains  them in great plenty.
   This marl,  it  would  Bc-em from  the qualities
 which it possesses, promotes vegetation in all the
 different ways. It increases the food of plants; it
 communicates  to the soil a power of attracting-this
 food from the air; it enlarges the pasture of plants;
 and it prepares the  vegetable food for  entering
 their roots.
                   Shelly sand.
   The shelly sand, often  found deposited in beds
 in the crevices and level parts of the sea-coasts, is
 another substance capable of being employed, both
 as a manure and stimulant, not only on account of
 its containing calcareous matter, in greater or less
 proportions, but also from the mixture of animal
 and vegetable substances that are found in it. The
 portion of  calcareous matter contained in these
 substances must vary according to circumstances;
 but, when the  quantity is  any way large, and in a
 reduced or attenuatedstate, the quality is so much
 the more valuable.  On that account  the quantity
 which ought to be applied to ihe soil, must be re-
 gulated by the extent  of  calcareous  matter,  sup-
 posed, or found, upon  trial, to be contained in the
 article.
             Clayey and stone marls.
   The clayey and stone marls are distinguished by
 their colours,  viz. white, black,  blue, and red.
 The Avhite, being of a soft crumbly nature,  is con-
 sidered to  be  the  best for  pasture land;  and the
 blue, whicu is more  compact and firm, fir corn 
322
UNIVERSAL
RECEIPT BOOK.
land.  In the districts where  marl is much  used,
these distinctions of management are attended to,
though either of the kinds may be employed with
advantage, if the following rules are adhered to:
  If marl is of the blue kind,  or of any kind that
is compact or firm, lay it upon  the land early in the
season, so as the weather may  mellow it down be-
fore the last plough: and, if on pasture land, let it
also be early laid on, and  spread very thin, break-
ing any lumps afterwards  which are not complete-
ly separated by the  first spreading.  If marl is of
the white, or any of the loose or crumbling sorts,
it need not be laid on so  early; because these va-
rieties break and dissolve almost as soon as ex-
posed to the weather.
           Alga marina, or sea-weed.
  Sea-weed, a plant that grows upon  rocks within
the sea, is driven ashore after storms, and is found
to be an excellent article  for manuring light and
dry soils, though of little advantage  to those of" a
clayey description.   This article  may be applied
on the proper soil with advantage to any crop, and
its effects  are immediate, though rarely of long
continuance.   As the coast side lands of the island
are, in every case, of superior fertility to those thafa
are inland, we may  attribute this superior fertility
to the  great quantity of manure found upon their
shores, after every storm or high tide, Avhereby the
resources of the ocean are in a manner brought for-
ward for the enrichment of the lands locally situ-
ated for  participating in  such benefits.  The ut-
most attention has long been paid  to the gathering
and laying on of this valuable  manure; and, from
the extensive  line  of British  shores, both of the
main sea and of the  numerous  estuaries which in-
dent, and as it were divide the main  land, an im-
mense quantity of sea-weed must  annually be col-
lected from them.
            Application of sea-weed.
  Sea-weed is applied at all seasons to the surface,
and sometimes, though not so profitably, it is mix-
ed with untrodden dung, that the process of putre-
faction may be hastened.   Generally speaking, it
is at once applied to the soil, which saves labour,
and prevents that degree of Avaste which otherwise
would  necessarily happen.  Sea-weed is, in one
respect, preferable to the  richest dung; because it
does not produce such a quantity  of weeds.   The
salts contained in sea-weed, and applied with it, is
the real cause of the after-cleanliness.  This may
be inferred from the general state  of coast-side
lands, where  sea-weed is  used.  These lands are
almost constantly kept in tillage, and  yet  are
cleaner and freer from weedslhan those in the inland
situations, where corn crops are not so often taken.
  When a coast-side farm contains  mixed  soils,
the best management is exercised, by applying sea-
weed to dry, and dung to clay-land.  In this way,
*ne full advantage of manure may be obtained, and a
farm so circumstanced is of infinitely greater  va-
lue, with respect to  manuring and labouring, than
one which contains no such variety.
              Burning the surface.
  The practice of burning the  surface, and apply-
ing the ashes as manure to the soil that remains,
has been long prevalent in Britain; and is consi-
dered as the most advantageous way of bringing in
and improving all soils, where  the surface carried
a coarse sward, and  Avas composed of peat-earth,
or other inactive substances. The burniug of this
surface has been viewed as the best way of bring-
ing such soils into action;  the ashes, furnished by
the burning, serving as  a stimulant to raise up
their dormant powers, thereby rendering them fer-
tile and productive in a superior degree than could
otherwise be accomplished.
Mr Curwen'i method of burning surface soil ana
                     clay.
  Mounds of seven'yards in length, and three and
a half in breadth, are kindled with 72 Winchester
bushels of lime.   First,  a  layer of dry sods  or
parings, on  which a quantity of lime is spread,
mixing sods with it, then a covering of 8 inches of
sods, on which the other half of the lime is spread,
and eovered a foot thick; the height of the mound
being about a yard.
  In 24 hours it will take  fire.  The lime should
be immediately from the kiln.  It is better to suf-
fer it to ignite itself, than  to effect it by the opera-
tion of Avater.  When  the fire is fairly kindled,
fresh sods must be applied.   I should recommend
obtaining a sufficient body of ashes before any clay
was put on the mounds.   The fire naturally rises
to  the  top.  It takes less time, and does more
Avork, to draw down the ashes from  the  top, and
not to suffer it to rise above six feet.   The former
practice of burning in  kilns was  more expensive;
did much less work; and,  in  many instances, cal-
cined the ashes.
  I think it may fairly be supposed  that the lime
adds  full  its Avorth to the quality of the ashes.
Where limestone can be had, I should advise the
burning a  small  quantity in  the mounds, which
Avould be a great improvement to the ashes, and, at
the same time, help to keep the fire in.
  The general adopting of the system of surface and
soil clay-burning, is likely to be the most important
discovery for the  interests of agriculture, that  has
occurred since the introduction of the turnip into
Norfolk, by Lord Townsliend.
          'To burn moss with the  asfies.
  The following directions for burning moss along
with  the ashes are of  considerable  importance:
Begin the  fire  wilh dry faggots, furze, or straw,
then  put on dried moss  finely minced  and well
beaten Avith  a clapper; and when that  is nearly
burnt down, put ou moss less dry, but well minced
and clapped, making holes with a prong  to  cany-
on the fire, and  so adding  more moss till a hill of
ashes, something  of the size of a Avagon load, is
accumulated, which, when cold, carry to  the bins,
or store heaps, before the ashes get AveL
  Mr Roscoe's method of improving  moss land
  The best method of improving moss land, is by
the application ofa ealcareous substance in a suffi-
cient quantity to convert the moss into a  soil, and
by the occasional use of animal or other extraneous
manures, such as the course of cultivation, and the
nature of the crops may  be found to require.
  After setting fire to the heap and herbage on the
moss, and ploughing it down as far as practicable,
Mr Roseoe ploughs a  thin sod or furrow with a
very sharp horse-plough, which he burns  in  small
heaps  and  dissipates; considering it of little use
but to destroy the tough woods of the ediophorus,
nardus  strieta,  and  other plants, whose matted
roots are almost imperishable.   The moss  being
thus brought to a tolerable dry and level substance,
then plough it in a regular furrow six  inches  deep:
and as soon  as possible after it is turned up, set
upon it the necessary quantity of marl, not  less than
two hundred  cubic yards to the acre.  As  the marl
begins to crumble and fall with the sun or frost, it
is  spread over  the land with considerable exact-
ness; after which,  put in a crop as early as possible,
sometimes  by the plough, and at  others  with the
horse-scuffle, or scarifier, according to the nature
of the crop; a quantity of manure, setting  on  about
20 tons to the acre.  Moss land, thus treated, may
not only be advantageously cropped the first year
with green  crops,  as ootatoes,  turnips,  &c. but
with any kind of grain. 
HUSBANDRY.
323
      Peat and peat aslies used as manure.
  In the county of Bedford, peat ashes are sold as
manure, and are used as a top dressing for clovers,
and sometimes for barley, at the rate of from  40
to 60 Winchester bushels per acre.  They  are
usually  spread, during the month of March,  on
clover; and on the surface of the barley-lands after
the seed is sown.   Peat ashes are  sdso admirably
useful as manure  for turnips, and are easily drilled
with or over  the seed, by means of a  drill-box,
connected with a  loaded cart.
  After the quantity required has been cast, a por-
tion sufficient  to kindle a large heap, (suppose two
cart-loads,) is  dried as much  as  if intended for
winter's use.   A conical  pile  is then  built and
fired; and as soon as the flame or smoke makes its
appearance at  any of the crevices, it is kept back
by fresh peat, just sufficiently dry to be free from
water:  and thus  the pile is continually increased,
Until it has burnt thirty or forty loads, or as much
more as may be  required.  The  slower the pro-
cess the better; but,  in case of too languid a con-
sumption, the heap  should  be stirred by a stick,
whenever the  danger of extinction seems probable.
  In case of rain, the workmen should be prepared
with some coarse thick turf, with which  to cover
the surface of the cone.
           Coal ashes used as manure.
  Coal  ashes may likewise be made a most useful
article of manure, by mixing with every cart-load
of them one bushel of lime in its  hottest  state,
covering it up in the middle  of the heap for about
12 hours, till the lime be  entirely  slaked, and  in-
corporating them Avell together;  and, by turning
the  whole over two or three times, the cinders, or
half-burnt parts of the coal, will be reduced  to as fine
a powder as the lime  itself. The coal-ashes should,
however, be carefully kept dry: this mixture will
be  found one  of the  best improvers of  moorish
and benty land.
      Method oj'  burning  lime without kilns.
  The  practice of lime-burners in Wales has for-
merly been to burn  lime  in broad shallow kilns,
but lately they have begun to manufacture that ar-
ticle without any Kiln at all.
  They place the lime stone in large bodies, which
are called coaks,  the stones not being broken small,
as in the ordinary method, and calcine these heaps
in the way used for  preparing charcoal.   To pre-
vent the flame from  bursting out at the top and
sides of these heaps, turfs and earth are placed
against them, and the aperture  partially closed;
and the heat is regulated and  transfused  through
the whole mass, that, notwithstanding the increased
size of the stones, the whole becomes thoroughly
calcined.  As a  proof of the  superior advantage
that lime burnt  in  these  clamps or coaks has over
lime burnt in the old method, where farmers have
 an option of taking  either lime at the same price,
 a preference  is invariably given to that burned in
Leaps,  This practicehas long prevailed in Yorkshire
and Shropshire,  and is also familiar in Scotland.
  Mr Craig's improved method of bunting clay.
   Make an  oblong enclosure, of the dimensions
 of a small house—say 15  feet  lij- 10—of green
turf-seeds, raised to the height of 3^ or 4 feet. In
the inside of this enclosure air-pipes  are  drawn
diagonally, which communicate with holes left at
 each corner of the exterior Avail.   These pipes are
 formed of sods put on edge, and the space between
 ao wide only  as another sod can easily cover.  In
each of the four spaces left between the air-pipes
and the outer-Avail, a fire  is kindled with wood and
dry turf, ind then  the whole of the inside of the
 enclosure  or kiln  filled  with diy turf, which is
 very soon on fire;  and,  on the top of that, Avhen
well kindled, is  thrown on the clay, in small quan-
tities at a time, and repeated as often as necessary,
which must  be regulated  by the intensity of the
burning.  The air-pipes are  of use only at first,
because if the fire burns with tolerable keenness,
the sods forming the pipes will soon be reduced to
ashes.  The pipe on the weather side of the kiln
only  is left open, the mouths of the other three
being stopped up, and not opened except the wind
should veer about.   As the inside of the enclosure
or kiln begins to he filled up with clay, the outer
wall  must be raised in height, at least 15 inches
higher than the lop of the clay, for the purpose of
keeping the wind from acting on the fire.   When
the fire  burns through the outer wall, which it
often does, and particularly Avhen the top is over
loaded with clay,  the breach must be  stopped up
immediately,.which  can only be effectually done
by building another sod wall from the  foundation
opposite to it, and the sods  that formed that part
of the first wall are  soon  reduced to aslies.  The
wall can be raised as high  as may  be  convenient
to throw on the clay, and the kiln may be increased
to any size by forming  a  new Avail when the pre-
vious one is burnt through.
  The principal art  in  burning consists in having
the outer Avail made quite close and impervious to
the external air, and taking care to have  the top
alivays lightly, but completely covered with clay;
because if the external air should come in contact
with  the fire, either  on the top  of the kiln, or by
means  of its bursting through  the sides, the fire
will be very soon extinguished.   In short, the kilns
require to be  well  attended, nearly as closely as
charcoal-pits.  Clay is much easier  burnt  than
either  moss or loam;—it does not undergo any
alteration in its shape, and on that  account allows
the fire and smoke to get  up  easily between the
lumps;—whereas  moss and loam,  by  crumbling
doAvn, are very apt to smother the fire, unless care-
fully attended to.  No rule can be laid down for
regulating the size of the lumps of clay thrown on
the kiln, as that must depend on the state of the
fire.  After a kiln is fairly set going,  no  coal or
wood, or any sort of combustible, is necessary, the
wet clay burning of itself,  and  it can  only be ex-
tinguished by intention, or the carelessness of tlie
operator, the vicissitudes- of the weather having
hardly  any effect on  the fires, if prope'rly attended
to.   When the kiln is burning with great keenness,
a stranger to the operation  may be apt to think that
the fire is extinguished.- If, therefore, any person,
either through impatience, Or too great curiosity,
 should insist on looking into  the  interior of the
I kiln, he Avill certainly retard and may possibly ex-
I tinguish the fire;—the chief secret consisting, as
j before-mentioned, in keeping out the external air.
   The  above method of burning clay may be con-
j sidered as an essential service rendered to agricul-
I ture; as it shews farmers how to convert,  at a
I moderate expense, the most worthless barren sub-
I soil into excellent manure.
   To decompose greeen vegetables for manure.
   The following process for the decomposition of
! green vegetables,  for manure, has been practised
i with great success in the counties of Norfolk  and
i Suffolk:—
   Place a layer of  vegetable matter a foot thick,
then a thin  layer of  lime, alternately; in a few
hours the  decomposition will  begin, and, unless
prevented by sods, or a forkfid of vegetables; will
 break out into a blaze;  this must be guarded
against; in 24 hours the process will be  completed.
 Weeds of every description will answer for vege-
 tables;  two pounds' worth  of lime will produce
 manure for four acres.  Use the vegetables as soon
after cutting as possible, and the lime fresh from
the kiln, as distance will allow. 
324
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK
                 Bone manure.
   At Hull there is a mill  constructed for the pur-
 pose of bruising (not pounding) bones; and the
 dust riddled therefrom is  reckoned a sti.l stronger
 manure.  The same person selects the best bones,
 which are saAvn into pieces, for button-moulds and
 knife-handles: and the saw-dust from this operation
 is particularly useful in gardens and hot beds.  It
 suits every  vegetable, hot-house, or green-house
 pknt.
   Bone manure is most used  in the AveSt of York-
 shire, Holderness, and  Lincolnshire, and  is  best
 adapted for  cold and light sandy land.  The usual
 quantity per acre is 70 bushels, Avhen  used  alone;
 but  when  mixed with ashes,  or common manure
 of any sort, 30 bushels  per acre is thought quite
 enough.   It is applied at the same periods as other
 manure, and has been found in this Avay to remain
 7 years in the  ground.  The rough part of this
 manure, after being 5 years  in the  ground, has
 been gathered off"one field and  thrown upon another
 of a different soil, and has proved, even then, good
 manure.
  The bones which  are best filled Avith oil and
 marrow are certainly the best manure;  and the
 parts generally  used for buttons and knife-hafts are
 the thigh and shank bones. The powdered bones
 are dearer, and generally used for hot-beds in gar-
 dens, being  too expensive  for  the field, and  not so
 durable as bruised bones, yet, for a short time,
 more productive.
  A dry, light, or gentle  soil, is best adapted for
 the use of bone-manure; as it is supposed that, in
 land  Avhich  retains Avet, the  nutritive part  of the
 bone washes to  the surface of it and  does  not in-
 corporate  sufficiently with  the soil.
  Bruised bones are better Avhen mixed Avith ashes,
 or any other manure,  as the juice of the bones is
 I lien  more equally spread  over  the field.   Bone
 manure ought to be ploughed into the  land  in til-
 lage.  On the grass the powder should be sown in
 the hand.
  This manure is used on land before described,
 to the extent of several thousand acres in the higher
parts of Nottinghamshire, the Wolds (or  high
light land) in Lincolnshire, and the East and West
Riding of  Yorkshire.
            Moss used.as manure.
  Moss-earth will, without any preparation what-
ever, operate as a manure  to any other soil.   The
extreme cohesiveness of clay  is often a bar to its
improvement:  pure sand is unproductive  from a
contrary cause.   If these are mixed wilh  each
other, or if moss-earth is mixed with either, they
will be cured of these defects.   The tenacious clay
 Avill be rendered more open; the moisture  will
 more easily percolate; a greater scope will be given
 to the roots of plants; they will not be so retentive
 of moisture  in wet weather, nor so adhesive when
 dry.
  A mixture of moss among sand will deepen the
 soil,  render it  more  retentive  of moisture,  and
 prevent the crop from being so readily injured by
 ihe drought.
  But it is  much better to bring the moss into a
 course of putridity by some fermenting admixture
 before it is applied to any soil. If no such mixture
 can be procured, let the moss-earth be thrown up
 in heaps, first exposed to Ihe frost, and then to the
 other changes of weather for a year or two; and if
 it is turned,  some sand or clay mixed with it, aud
 tlie whole  exposed for tivo seasons to the weather,
 it will form  a tolerable manure.
  If moss-earth is  minutely mixed  Avith  neAvly
 Blaked lime, in a powdery state, and laid up for a
 few  months, and once or twice turned over, well
 broken, and a small quantity of new lime thrown
  in when turned over, the antiseptic qualities of the
 i moss, in the course ofa year after being so mixed,
 i will be OA'ercome, and the moss brought into a state
  of rapid decomposition, and  thereby formed into
 [ as good  manure as  so much straw, or other vege-
  tables, that har* been taken from the arable lands.
             To prepare it with lime.
   Dig up the luoss, and throw it into h'vaps after
  harvest, or early in  winter, so that the  frost  may
  operate, and in part reduce its texture, before llrw
  drought  forms it into peat.  When  dug up, ami
  exposed to summer drought,  before  the frost has
  loosened its adhesion, il becomes a real peat, and
  will not be again so easily broken  down  by tlie
  weather.
   After boing exposed to the  weather for a Avhole
  av!titer,  the moss-earth may be removed  in the
  spring to the field to which it is intended to be
 applied,  and when   it  is between Avet  and  dry,
 thrown  up, and  mixed  wilh about a fifth or sixth
 part of  its weight of hot newly-slaked lime, iu a
 poivdery state.  The moss should be as much bro-
 ken as possible, and minutely mixed Avith the lima.
        Various substances used as manure.
   J. B.  Bailey, Esq. lately presented  to the Agri*
 cultural Society of Manchester, tlie following enu-
 meration of substances which  may be  applied use-'
 fully as  manures instead of stable dung,  viz. mud,
 sweepings of the streets, and eoal-iishes; night soil;
 bones; refuse matters, as sweepings and rubbish of
 houses, &c.  sca-Aveed,  sem-shells, and sea-gravel,
 river-weeds, sweepings of roads, and spent tanner'a
 bark to mix with lime.   Peat or moss, decayed ve-
 getables, putrid water, the ashes of weeds, &c. tlie
 refuse of bleacher's ashes, soap suds,  or iey, peat
 ashes, water in-floating, refuse salt.
         Plaster of Paris used as manure.
   Plaster of Paris is used as a manure in Penntyl-
 \*ania.  The best kind is imported from hills in the
 vicinity  of Paris: it is brought down the Seine, anil
 exported from Havre de Grace,  ".'he lumps com-
 posed of flat shining specula are preferred to those
 which are formed of round particles like sand; the
 simple method of finding out the quality is to pul-
 verize some, und put it  dry into  an iron pot over
 the fire, when that which is good will soon boil,
 aud great quantities  of the fixed air escape by ebul-
 lition.   It  is pulverized by first putting it in a
 stamping-mill.  The aner its  pulverization  tlie
 better, as it will thereby be more generally diffused.
   It is best to sow it on  a wet day.  The  most ap-
 proved quantity for grass is six bushels  per acre.
 No art is required in sowing it more  than making
 the distribution  as equal as possible on the swar.l
 of grass.  It operates altogether  as a  top manure,
 and therefore should not be put  on in the  spring
 until the principal frosts are over and vegetation
 hath begun.   The general time for sowing in Ame-
 rica, is  in  April, May, June, July,  August,  and
 even as late as  September.  Its effects  will gei»-
! erally appear in ten  or fifteen days; after which the
 groAvth of the grass  will be so great as to produce
 a large burden at the end of six weeks after sowing.
   It must be sown on dry land,  not subject to bti
 overflown.   It has been sown on sand, loam, and
 clay, and it is difficult to say on  Avhich it has  best
 answered, although the effect is sooner visible on
 sand.   It has been used as a manure  in  this state
 for twelve years; for, like other  manure, its con-
 tinuance very much depends on the nature of the
 soil on which it is placed.
      Mode of applying blubber as a manure.
   This is a  very rich ingredient, as well for arable
 as pasture land, when mixed at the rate of one ton
 of blubber Jo 20 loads of mould, and 1 chaldron of
 lime,  per acre.   It  must be turned over and pul-
 verized; and -.Then  it lias lain in this statu three 
HUSBANDRY.
326
or four months, it will become fit for use, and may
be put upon the land in such quantities as the qual-
ity of the land to be manured requires.  It is a very
Strong manure, and very excellent.
         Application of manures lo land.
  Early in autumn, after the hay crop  is removed,
is the most convenient and least objectionable pe-
riod for the purpose.   The common practice is to
apply manures, during  the  frost,  in  the  ivinter.
But  ihe elastic fluids being the greatest supports
of vegetation, manures should be  applied under
circumstances that favour their generation.   These
Avill  occur in spring, after the  grass has, in some
degree, covered the ground, the dung  being then
shaded  from the sun.  After a frost, much of the
virtues of the dung will be Avashed away  by the
thaw, aud  its soluble parts  destroyed: and in a
frosty  stale, the ground  is incapable of absorbing
liquids.
          Management  of arable land.
  Alternate husbandry, or the system of having le-
guminous and  culmiferous crops to follow each
other, with  some  modification-*, is  practicable  on
orery soil.  According to its rules,  the land Avould
rut-civ get into a foul and exhausted state; at least, if
foul  and exhausted under alternate husbandry, mat-
ters  would be much worse were any other system fol-
lowed.  The rotation may be  long or short, as is
consistent with the richness of the soil, on which it
is executed, ami other focal'circumstances.  The
crops cultivated may be  any of the  varieties which
compose any of the two tribes, according to the na-
ture of  soil and climate  of the district where the
rotation is exercised, and where circumstances ren-
der  ploughing not so advantageous as pasturing, the
tland may  remain in grass, till th;se circumstances
are obviated; care being always  taken, Avhen it is
broken up,  to follow alternate  husbandry  during
the  time it is under tillage.
   In thii  way we think  it perfectly practicable to
follow the alternate system in every situation; nor
do we consider the land being in  grass  for Iavo,
three, or  four years, as a departure from that sys-
tem, if called for by a scarcity of manure, poverty
of soil,  want of markets  for eo; n, or other acciden-
tal circumstances.  The basis of every rotation we
nold to be either a bare summer falloAv, or a fal-
low  on  which drill turnips are cultivated, and its
conclusion to be with the crop taken  in  the year
preceding a return  of fallow  or drilled  turnips,
when, of course, a new rotation commences.
              First rotation of crops.
   According lo this rotation,  wheat and drilled
 beans are tlie crops to be cultivated, though clover
and rye-grass may be takeu  fcv one year,  in place
of beans, should such a variety be  vieAved as more
eligible.   The rotation begins with summer fallow
 because it is only on strong deep lands that it can
 be profitably practised;  and it may go on for any
 length  of time, or so long as the land can be kept
 clean, though it ought to stop the moment that the
 land gets into a contrary condition. A considera-
 ble  quantity of manure is  required to go on suc-
 cessfully; dung'should be given to  each bean crop;
 and if this crop is drilled, and attentively horse-
 lioed, the rotation may turn out to be one of the
 most profitable that can be exercised.
                 Second rotation.
   Upon loams  and clays, where it may not be ad-
 visable to carry the first rotation into execution, a
 different one can  be practised; according to which
 labour will  be more divided,  and  the usual grains
 more Lretterallv cultivated; as,  for instance:—
   1. Fallow, "with dung.  2.  Wheat.  3. Beans,
 drilled and horse-hoed.   4.  Barley.  5. Clover
 and rve-grass.  6. Oats, or wheat.  7.  Beans, drill-
 ed and horsL-hoed.  8.  Wheat.
  This rotation is excellently calculated  to insure
an abundant return through the Avhole of  it, provi-
ded di^ig is administered upon the clover stubble.
Without this supply, the rotation would be crip-
pled, and inferior crops of course produced in tlie
concluding years.
                 Third rotation.
  This rotation is calculated  for clays and loams
of an inferior description to those already treated
of.
  1. FalloAv, Avith dung.   2.  Wheat.  3. Clover
and Rye-grass.   4. Oats.  5. B_-ans, drilled  and
horse-hoed.  6.  Wheat.
  According to this rotation, the rules of good hus-
bandry are studiously practised, Avhile the sequence
is obviously calculated to keep the land in good or-
der, and in such a condition as to insure crops of
the greatest value.  If manure is bestowed, either
upon the clover stubble, or before  Ihe  beans are
sown, the rotation is one of the best that can be de-
vised for the soils mentioned.
                Fourth rotation.
  On thin clays, gentle husbandry is indispensably
necessary, otherwise  the  soil may be exhausted",
and the produce unequal to the expense of cultiva-
tion.  Soils of thjs description  will not  improve
much while under grass; but unless an additional
stock of manure can be procured, there is a neces-
sity of  refreshing them iu that Avay, even though
the produce should, in the meantime, be compara-
tively of small value.   The following rotation is an
excellent  one.
  1. Fallow, with  dung.  2. Wheat.   3. Grass,
pastured, but not too early eaten.   4. Grass.  5.
Grass.  6. Oats.
   This rotation  may be shortened  or lengthened,
according to circumstances, but  should  never ex-
tend further  in  point of ploughing,  than when
dung can be given to the fallow break.  This is the
key-stone of the whole; and if it is neglected, the
rotation is rendered useless.
                 Fifth rotation.
   Peat-earth soils are not friendly to wheat unless
aided by a quantity of calcareous matter. Taking
them iu a general point of view, it is not advisable
to  cultivate wheat; but a crop of oats may almost
be depended upon, provided the previous manage-
ment has been judiciously executed.  If the  sub-
soil of peat-earth lands be  retentive of moisture,
the process ought to  commence with a bare sum-
mer fallow; but if such are incumbent on free and
open bottoms, a crop of turnips may be substituted
for fallow, according to Avhich method, the surface
 will get a body  which  naturally it did not possess.
Grass,  on such soils, must always  occupy a great
 space of eveiy rotation, because physical circum-
 stances render regular cropping utterly impracti-
cable.
   1. Fallow, or turnips, with dung.  2. Oats, of
 an early variety.  3.  Clover,  and a considerable
 quantity of perennial  rye grass.  4. Pasture for
 several years, till circumstances permit the land to
 be broken up, when oats are to be repeated.
                 Sixth rotation.
   Light soils are easily managed, though to pro-
 cure a  full return of  the  profit which they are ca-
 pable  of yielding,  requires  generally   as  much
 attention as is  necessary in the management of
 those of a stronger description.  Upon light soils,
 a  bare summer fallow  is  seldom called for, as
 cleanliness may be preserved  by growing turnips,
 and other  leguminous articles.  Grass  also  is of
 eminent advantage upon such soils, often yielding
 a greater profit than what is afforded by culmifer-
 ous crops.
    1. Turnips.   2. Spring wheat,  or barley.  3,
  Clover and lye-grass.   4. Oats, or  wheat.
                                      2 C 
326
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
    This rotation would be  greatly improved, Avere
  it extended  to eight years, whilst the ground  bv
  such an extension, would be kept fresh, and  con-
  stantly in good condition.  As for instance, were
  seeds  for pasture sown in the second year,  the
  ground kept  three years under grass, then broken
  up for oats in the sixth year, drilled wilh beans and
  peas in the seventh, f,nd sown with  wheat  in  the
  eighth, the rotation Avould  be complete; because it
  included every branch of husbandry,  and admitted
  a variety in management generally agreeable to the
  soil, and  always favourable to the interest of culti-
  vators.  The rotation may also consist of six crops,
  were the land kept only one year in grass, though
  few situations admit of so  much  cropping,  unless
  additional manure is within reach.
                Seventh rotation.
   Sandy  soils, Avhen properly manured, are well
 adapted to turnips, though it  rarely  happens that
 wheat can be cultivated on them  w'ith adA'antage,
 unless  they are dressed with alluvial compost,
 marl, clay, or some such substances, as will give a
 body or strength to them which they  do not natu-
 rally possess.  Barley,  oats, and rye, the  latter
 especially, are, however, sure crops on sands; and,
 in  favourable seasons, will  return greater  profit
 than  can be obtained from wheat.
   1.  Turnips, consumed on the ground.  2. Bar-
 ley.  3. Grass.  4. Rye, or Oats.
   By keeping  the  land  three  years  in grass, the
 rotation would be extended to six years, a measure
 highly advisable.
   From what has been stated,  every  person capa-
 ble of judging will at once perceive the facility of
 arranging husbandly upon correct principles, and
 of cropping the ground in such a Avay as to  make
 it produce abundant returns to the occupier, whilst
 at the same time it is preserved in good condition,
 and never impoverished or exhausted.  All these
 things are perfectly practicable under the alternate
 system, though it is doubtful whether they can be
 gained under any other.
  It may  be  added, that winter sown crops, or
 crops sown on the  winter furrow, are most eligible
 on all clayey soils.
  Ploughing, with a view to clean  soils of the de-
 scription under consideration, has  little effect un-
 less given  in the summer months.  This  renders
 summer fallow indispensably necessary; and,  with-
 out this radical process, none of the heavy and
 wet soils  can  be suitably managed, or preserved
 in a good condition.
  I'o  adopt a judicious rotation of chopping  for
 every  soil, requires a degi.e of judgment in ihe
farmer,  which  can only be gathered from observa-
tion and experience.  The old rotations were cal-
culated  to wear out the soil, and to render it un-
 productive;  but the modern  rotations, such  as
those Avhich we have described,are founded on prin-
ciples which  insure a  full  return from the soil,
without lessening its value,  or impoverishing its
condition.  Much depends, however, upon the man-
ner in Avhich the different processes are executed;
 for the best arranged rotation may  be  of no avail,
if the  processes belonging to it are imperfectly and
unreasonably executed.
              I'o  cultivate wheat.
  On  soils really calculated  for wheat, though in
different degrees,  summer falloAv is  the lir.st and
leading  step to gain a good  crop or crops of that
grain.   The first  furrow should  be given before
 winter,  or as early as  the other operations of the
 form  will admit;  aud every attention should be
used to go as deep as possible; for it rarely hap-
 pens that any of the succeeding  furrows excoed the
first one in that respect.  The number of after-
ploughings must be regulated by the condition of
  the ground and the state of the weather; but, in ge-
  neral, it may be observed, that ploughing in lengfh
  and  across, alternately,  is the way by which the
  ground will be most completely cut, and the inten-
  tion of fallowing accomplished.
                 Varieties of seed.
   Wheat may be classed under two principal di-
  visions, though each of these admits ot several sub-
  divisions. The first is composed of all the varieties
  of red Avheat.  The second division comprehends
  the whole varieties of white wheat, which again
  may  be arranged under two distinct heads, namely,
 thick chaffed and thin chaffed.
   The thick chaffed varieties  were formefly in
 greatest repute, generally yielding the whitest and
 finest flour, and, in dry seasons, not inferior in
 produce to the other; but since 1799, when ihe dis-
 ease called mildew, to Avhich they are constitution-
 ally predisposed, raged  so extensively, they have
 gradually been going out of fashion.
   The thin chaffed wheats are a hardy class, and
 seldom mildeifred, unless the weather  be  particu-
 larly  inimical during the  stages of blossoming,
 filling, and ripening,  though  some  of  them are
 rather  better qualified to resist  that destructive
 disorder than others.  In  1799, thin chatted wheats
 were seriously  injured;  and  instances were  not
 Avanting to show, that an acre of thein, with re-
 spect to  value,  exceeded an acre  of thick chaffed
 Avheat,  quantity and quality considered,  not less
 than  fifty per cent.  Since that time, therefore,
 their culture has rapidly increased; and to this cir-
 cumstance may, in a great measure, be attributed
 the high  character which thin chaffed wheats now
 bear.
               Method of sowing.
   Sowing in the broad-cast Avay may be said to be
 the mode universally practised.   Upon Avell pre-
 pared lands, if the seed  be distributed equally, it
 can scarcely be soAvn too thin; perhaps two bushels
 per acre  are sufficient;  for the heaviest  crops at
 autumn are rarely  those which  show  the  most
 vigorous appearance through the  winter  months.
 Bean stubbles require more seed than summer fal-
 lows, because the roughness of theirsurface prevents
 such an equal distribution; and clover leas ought to
 be sliil thicker sown than bean stubbles. Thin sow-
 ing in  spring ought not to be practised, otherwise
 the crop will be late, and imperfectly ripened. No
 more  harrowing should be given to fields that have
 been fallowed, than what is necessary to cover tlie
 seed,  and level the surface sufficiently.  Ground,
 which is to lie in a broken down state through the
 Avinter, suffers severely when an excessive harrow-
 ing is given, especially  it it  is incumbent on a
 close bottom; though, as to the quantity necessary,
 none  can give  an opinion, except those who are
 personally present.
            To sow grain by ribbing.
  The ribbing of grain crops Avas  introduced into
 Northumberland, in the year 1810.  The  process
 is as follows: Suppose the land in fallow, or tur-
 nips eat off, let il be gathered into ridges of twelve
feet each; then  harrow it well, particularly the
furrows of the  ridges; after which lake a narrow-
bottomed  swing plough,  five  inches and a half
broad at  the heel,  with  a narrow-winged  sock,
draAvn by  one horse; begin iu the furrow, as if you
intended to gather two ridges together, which will
 make  a rib exactly in  the middle of the  furrow;
then turn  back up the  same  furrow you  came
down,  keeping close to the rib made;  pursue the
 same  mode on the olher  side, and take a little of
the soil,  which is  thrown over by  the  mould-
 board from the back of each rib, ami so on till you
come near the furrow, when you must  pursue the
 same  mode as  at first.   In water furrowing you 
HUSBANDRY.
32*
will then have a rib on each side of the furrow, dis-
tance between the rib, ten or twelve inches.  The
seed to  be sown  by the hand; and, from the nar-
rowness or sharpness of the top of the ridges, the
grain will fall regularly down; then put on a light
harrow to cover the seed.  In wet soils, the ridges
ought to be tivicegathered, as ribbingreducesthem.
  It will answer all kinds of crops,  but  not  all
soils.   Strong clayey soils cannot be pulverized
sufficiently for that purpose; nor can it be effected
in cloA'er-lea, unless it be twice ploughed, and
Avell harrowed.  Ribbing  is here esteemed pre-
ferable to drilling, as you have the same opportu-
nity of keeping the land clean, and the grain dees
not fall so close together, as by drilling.
  The farmer may hand  or horse-hoe his crops,
and also hoe in his clover-seed: which is consider-
ed very advantageous.  It is more productive of
grain, especially when it is apt to lodge; and, in ail
cases, as much straw; and ribbing  is  often the
means of preventing the corn lodging.
  In a wet  season, ribbing  is more favourable to
harvesting; because  the space between the ribs
admits the air freely, and the  corn  dries much
sooner.   The reapers, also, when accustomed to
it, cut more, and take it up cleaner.
       Improved method of drilling wheat.
  The drill contains three  coulters,  placed in a
triangular iorm, and worked by brushes, with cast-
iron nuts, sufficient for one horse to draw, and one
man to attend to.   It will drill three acres  per day
of wheat, barley, or oats, at five inches asunder;
and five acres per day of beans, peas, he. at tAvelve
inches asunder.  The general  practice is  to drill
crossways, and to set the rows five or six  inches,
and never exceeding seven inches apart, it'being
found that,  if the distance is greater, they arc too
long filling up in the spring; that they  afford a
greater breadth for the growth of weeds; are more
expensive to hoe,  and more liable to be laid in the
summer.  In drilling  wheat,  never harrow after
the drill, if it can be avoided; tlie drill generally
leaving  the corn  sufficiently covered; and by this
plan, the vegetation  is quickened, and the ridges
of soils, between  each row, preserve the plants in
winter, and render the operation of harroAving in
the spring much  more efficacious.   The spring
harrowing  is performed the contrary way to that
of the drilling, as  the harrow working upon  the
ridges does not pull up the plants, and leaves the
ground mouldy for the hoe.  This point should be
particularly attended to.  The harrowing after the
drill, evidently leaves the ground in a better state
to the eye; but the advantages in  the produce of the
crop are decidedly in favour of the plan of leaving
the land in  the rough state already described; as
the operation of the winter upon the  clods causes
them to pulverize, and furnishes an abundant nu-
trition to the plants in the spring; and followed by
the hoe, about the time the head or ear is forming,
it makes the growth of the  plant more vigorous,
and greatly improves the size of the head or ear.
The drilling for wheat should generally commence
about the latter end of September; at which time
the farmer may drill about two  bushels per acre.
As the season advances, keep increasing the quan-
tity to three  bushels per acre, being guided by the
quality of the  soil'  and  other circumstances.  A
great loss has frequently arisen, through  drilling
too small a quantity of seed, as  there can  be none
spared in that case for the  rooks and grubs; and a
thick  well planted  crop  will always yield more
abundantly than  a tliin-stooling crop,  and ripen
Eooner.
   The drill  system would have been in more gene-
ral practice, if its friends had also recommended
the  use of a larger quantity of seed to the acre,
and the rows to be planted nearer together.  It'is
impossible to obtain so great a produce per acre
by the broad-cast system, as by the drill system at
the same expense,  be  the  land ever so free from
Aveeds.  Fifty bushels per acre may be raised by
the drill, but never more than 40 bushels by sow-
ing broad-cast.   The wheat crops should generally
be top-dressed in Avinter Avith manure compost, or
some other dressing in frost, or when you can cart
upon the land; but if that operation is rendered
impracticable, sooting in  March, or  any other
dressing of that description, hoed  in at the spring,
is preferable to a dressing  laid on  in the autumn,
and ploughed in.
  The advantages of the drill over the  broad-cast
system are numerous  and decisive; as it enables
the farmer to grow corn without Aveeds; is sooner
ready for stacking after the scythe or skkle; pro-
duces a cleaner and more regular sample for the
market; and of consequence obtains a better price;
leaves the land in a belter  state  for a succeeding
crop, and materially increases the quantity of food
for human consumption.
               To pickle the seed.
  This process is indispensably necessaiy on every
soil; otherwise smut, to a greater or less extent,
will in nine cases out of ten  assuredly follow.
Stale urine  may be considered as the  safest  and
surest  pickle; and Avhere it can  be obtained in a
sufficient quantity, is commonly resorted to. The
mode of using  it  does not, hoAvever,  seem to be
agreed upon; for while one party contends that the
grain ought to  be  steeped in the urine, another
party considers it sufficient to sprinkle  the urine
upon it.   But Avhatever difference of opinion there
may be as to the kind of  pickle that ought to be
used, and the mode of using it, all admit the utility
of mixing the wetted seed with  hot  lime fresh.
slaked; and this, in one point of view, is absolutely
necessary, so  that the seed  may be equally dis-
tributee!.  It may be remarked,  that  experience
justifies the utility of all these modes,  provided
they are attentively carried into execution. There
is some danger from the first; for, if the seed steep-
ed in urine is not immediately sown, it will infal-
libly lose its vegetative power.  The second, viz.
sprinkling the urine on the seed„ seems  to be the
safest, if performed by an attentive hand; whilst
the last may do  equally well,  if such a  quantity of
salt be incorporated  with the water, as  to render
it of sufficient strength. It may also be remarked,
that this last mode is often accompanied with smut,
owing no doubt to a deficiency of strength in the
pickle; whereas a single head with smut is rarely
discovered when urine has been used.
            To  cultivate Indian corn.
   The land should be a loamy sand, very rich. In
the beginning of April, the grains should be set
like hops, at two feet distance, six or eight grains
in a hill, each grain  about  an inch deep in  the
ground.  The seed from New England is the best.
In the beginning of May,  the alleys  should he
hoed, and the hills weeded and earthed up higher.
At the latter end of that month all the  superfluous
 stalks should be taken away,  and  only three stems
 of corn left in each hill.  By the  middle of June
 it will cover the alley,  ii grows  much  like bul-
 rushes, the  lower leaves  being  like broad fLgs,
 three or four inches wide, and  as many feet in
 length; the stems shooting upwards, from seven to
 ten feel in height, with many joints casting off flag-
 leaves at every joint.  Under these  leaves, and
 close to the stem, grows the corn,  covered over by
 many coats of sedgy leaA'es, and  so closed in  by
 thein to the stem, that it does not show itself easi-
 ly, till there bursts out at the end of the ear a num-
 ber of strings that look like tufts of horse-hair, at 
328                             UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK
 first of a beautiful green, and afterwards red or
 yellow, the stem  ending in a  flower.   The corn
 will ripen in September; but the sun at that season
 not having strength enough to dry it, it must be
 laid upou racks, or thin open floors, in dry rooms,
 and frequently turned,  to  avoid  moulding;  the
 grains are about as big as peas, and adhere in re-
 gular roAvs round  a Avhite pithy substance, Avhich
 forms Ihe ear.   An ear contains from two to four
 hundred grains, and  is from  six to ten inches in
 length.   They are of various colours, blue, red,
 white, and yellow.  The manner of gathering them
 is by cutting down the stems and breaking off  the
 ears.   The stems are as big as a man's wrist, and
 look like bamboo  cane: the pith is full of a juice
 that tastes as sweet as sugar;  and  the joints  are
 about a foot and a half distant.  The increase is
 upwards of five hundred fold.  Upon a large scale,
 the seed may be drilled  in alleys like peas; and,
 to save digging, the ground may be ploughed and
 harrowed,  which  will answer very well.  It will
 grow upon all kinds of  land.  The  ears  which
 grow upon dry sandy land are less, but harder and
 riper.  The grain is taken from the husk by hand,
 and when ground upon  French stones, makes an
 escellent flour,  of which it yields much  more,
 with much less bran, than wheat does, and exceeds
 it in crust,  pancakes, puddings, and all other uses
 except bread; but a sweetness peculiar to it, which
 iu all other cases makes it agreeable, is here nau-
 seous.  It is excellent for feeding poultry and hogs,
 and fattens both much better aud soo.ier than peas
 or  barley.   The stems make better  hedges  for
 kitchen garden than reeds do. It clears the ground
 from Aveeds, and makes a good season for any other
 kind of corn.   Piso, and other Spanish physic ans,
 are full of the medicinal virtues of this grain.  It
 was the only bread-corn known in  America when
 first discovered by the Spaniards, and is there call-
 ed maize.
              Diseases of wheat.
  Wheat is subject to more diseases than other
 grains, and,  in some seasons,  especially  in  wet
 cues, heavier losses are sustained from those dis-
 eases, than are felt in the culture of any other cul-
 miferous crop  Avith which  we  are acquainted.
 Wheat may suffer from the attack of insects a*, the
 root; from blight, which, primarily,  affects the
leaf oi straw, and ultimately deprives the grain of
 sufficient nourishment; from mildew on the ear,
 which operates thereon with the force of an apo-
 plectic stroke; and from  gum of different  shades,
 which lodges on the  chaff  or  cups in which the
 grain is deposited.
                   Blight.
  Blight originates from  moist or  foggy weather,
 and from hoarfrost, the effects cf which, when ex-
 pelled by a hot sun, are. first discernible on the
 straw, and  afterwards  on the ear,  in a greater or
 less degree, according to local circumstances.  Let
 a field be examined in a day  or two after such wea-
 ther, and a careful  observer will soon be satisfied,
 that the fibres and  leaves' of  plants are contracted
 and enfeebled, in consequence of Avhat may be call-
 ed a stoppage of perspiration.  This disorder may
 take place either earlier or later, but is most fatal
 when it appears at the time tie grain is forming
 iu the ear.  It may appear at an earlier stage; and
 though the productive powers of the plant will there-
 by be lessened, yet, if circumstances are afterwards
 favourable, the quality of the grain produced may not
 be much impaired; or it may appear niter the grain
 is fully formed, and then very little damage will be
 kustained, except by the straw.
                   Mildew.
  Mildew may be  ranked as a disease Avhicli  af-
 fects the ear, and is brought on by causes some-
! what similar to those which occasion blight, though
 at a more advanced period of the season.  If this
 disorder comes on  immediately  after  the first
 appearance of the ear, the straw" will  also be af-
 fected; but if the grain is nearly or fully formed,
 then injury on the straw  is not much discernible.
 We have seen a crop which carried wheat that was
 mildewed,  Avhere the straw Avas perfectly fresh,
 though, indeed, this  rarely happens.  A severe
 mildew,  however,  effectually prevents both corn
 and straw from making  any further progress, the
 whole plant apparently going backward every day
 till existence in a manner ceases altogether. Some-
 thing akin  to mildew is the gum or red oaker,
 which, in all warm moist seasons, attaches itself
 to the ear and often occasions considerable  dam-
 age.   All these different disorders are  generally
 accompanied by insects; Avhichanimalcuhe, by many
 people who take the effect for  ihe cause, are con-
 sidered,  though without the least foundation, as
 the  authois of  the mischief that follows.  Their
 appearance, however, may justly be attributed to
 the diseased state of the plant; for wherever putre-
 faction takos place, either in animal or  vegetable
 substances, the presence of these insects will never
 be wanting.
                      Rust.
   Another  disorder which  effects  wheat,  and by
 several people denominated the real rust, is brought
 on by excessive heats, which occasion the plants
 to suffer from a privation of  nourishment, aud he-
 come sickly and feeble.   In this atrophical state,
 a kind of  dust gathers  on  the stalk and  leaves,
 which increases with the disease, till the plant is
 in a great measure Avorn out and exhausted.  The
 only rfemedy  in this case, and it is one that cannot
 easily be administered by the hand of  man, is a
 plentiful supply of moisture, by which, if it is re-
 ceived  before consumption is too far advanced, the
 crop is benefited in a degree proportional to tlie
 extent of nourishment received,  and the stage at
 which the disease lias arrived.
      Impropriety of sowing mildewed wheat.
   Some people have recommended the sowing of
 blighted and mildewed Avheat, because It will ve-.
 getate; though  certainly  the recommendation, if
 carried into practice, would be attended with immi-
 nent danger to those ivho attempted it.   That light
 or defective  wheat will vegetate and  produce a
 plant, Ave are not disposed to contradict; but lhat
 it will vegetate as briskly, or put out a stem of equal
 strength, and capable of withstanding the severe
 winter blasts, as those produced from  sound  seed,
 we must be excused for not believing.  Let it only
 be considered, that a plant of young wheat, unless
 when very  early sown, lives three or four months,
 in a great measure, upon the nourishment which it
 derives from  the parent seed; and that such nour-
 ishment can,  in no view of the subject, be so great
 when the parent is lean  and emaciated,  as  when
 sound, healthy  and vigorous.  Let it also be re-
 membered, that a  plant produced  from  the best
 and weightiest seed, must,  in every case, under a
 party of other circumstances, have  a stronger con-
 stitution at the outset, which necessarily qualifies
 it to push on  wilh greater energy when the season
 of growth arrives.  Indeed, the economy of nature
 Avould be over-turned, had any other result follow-
 ed.   A breeder of cattle or  slieep would not act
 mo' u foolishly, who trusted that a deformed dimi-
 nutive  bull or ram  would produce him good stock,
 than the corn farmer does who uses unsound or im-
 perfect seed.
          'J'o remorie the mildew on wheat.
   A solution  of common  salt in water, in the pro-
 portion ofa pound to a gallon, is an excellent re-
i inedy for the mildew on corn.  After sprinkling 
HUSBANDRY,
329
three or  four days, the mildeAv will disappear,
weaving only a discoloration  on the straw where it
was destroyed.   The  best and most expeditious
way of  applying the mixttue  is with a flat brush,
such as is used by white washers.  The operator
Having a pail of  the mixture in one hand, with the
other he dips the brush into it, and makes his re-
gular casts as when soAving corn broad-cast; in this
way he  will readily get over ten acres in the  day,
and with an assistant a great  deal mo-';.  About
two  hogsheads of the mixture will suffice for  an
acre. Wherever the mixture touches, the mildew
immediately dies.
           To prevent mildew in wheat.
  Dissolve 3 oz. and 2 drachms of sulphate of cop-
per, copperas, or blue vitriol,  in  3 gallons and 3
quarts, wine measure, of cold water, for every three
.bushels of grain that is to be prepared.  Into ano-
ther vessel capable of containing from  53 to  79
wine gallons, throw from 3 to  4 Winchester bush-
els  of wheat, into Avhich the  prepared  liquid is
iwured, until it rises 5  or 6 inches above the corn.
Stir it thoroughly; and  carefully remove  all that
swims on the surface.  After it has remained half
an hour in thf- preparation, throw the wheat into a
basket that will allow the Avater to escape, but not
the grain.  It ought then to belmmedhttely wash-
ed in rain, or pure water, Avhich will prevent any
risk of its injuring  the germ,  and afterwards the
seed ought to be dried before  it is sown.  It may
be preserved in this shape for  months.
         To prevent the smut  in wheat.
  Liming the seed by immersion is recommended
by a French writer,  as the  only  preventive  war-
ranted by science and  sanctioned by experience,
and the following is g'lA'en as the method in which ,
the process is best performed:
  To destroy the germs of the  blight  in4J bushels
or 256 lbs. of corn, about 6 or 7 gallons of Avater
must be used, as grain may be more or less dry,
and  from 35 to 42 ounces  avoirdupois  of quick
lime, according as it may be more or less caustic,
and according as the seed may have more or less
of the blight.   Boil part of the  water, black the
lime with it, and then add the rest. When joined,  I
tlie heat of the Avater should  be such,  that the hand
can  with difficulty bear  it.   Pour the lime water
upon the corn placed in a tub,  stirring it incessant-
ly, first with a  stick, and afterwards with a  sho-
vel.   The liquid should, at first, cover the wheat,
three or four fingers' breadth;  it will  soon be ab-
sorbed by the grain.  In this state let it remain co-
vered over for  24 hours, but  turn it over 5 or 6
times during the day.  Such parts of the liquor as
will drain off,  may then be separated, when the
corn, after standing a  feAv hours, in  order that it
may run freely out of the  hand, may be soAvn.   If
not  intended to be used immediately,  the limed
wheat should be put in a heap, and moved once or
twice a day till  dry.  Experience has proved that
limed grain germinates sooner than unlimed;  and,
as it carries with it moisture sufficient to develop
the embryo, the seed will not suffer for want  of
rain; insects will not attack it, the  acrid taste  of
the lime being  offensive to them; and, as eA'ery
grain germinates, a less quantity is requisite.   In
fact, the grain being swelled, the sower tilling his
hand as usual, will, when he has sown 65 handsful
of limed corn, have, in reality, only used 52.   As
blighted grains preserve, for a long time, the power
of germinating,  the careful farmer, whose grain
has been touched, should carefully sweep out the
erevices in th«  walls, and  cracks in the floors  of
his  barn, and take great pains  to clean thein  tho-
A  tub  is used that has a hole at  bottom, for a
    2 R
spigot and fauett, fixed in a wisp of straw, to pre-
vent any small pieces of lime passing (as in brew
ing).  To 70 gallons of water, add a corn bushel
of unslaked lime, stir it well till the whole is mix-
ed, let it sland 30 hours, run it oft" into another tub
as clear as possible (as practised in beer); add 4L2
pounds of salt, which, with stirring, will sron dis-
solve; this is a proper pickle for brining and liming-
seed-wheat without any obstacle, and greatly faci-
litates the drilling.
  Steep the  wheat in a broad-bottomed basket, 24
inches diameter, and twenty inches deep, running
in the grain gradually in small quantities, from  It
to 12 gallons; stirring the same.  What floats, skim
oft* and  do not sow; then draw up the basket, to
drain the pickle, for a few minutes; this may be
performed in hall' an hour, and when sufficiently
pickled,  proceed as before.  The wheat will  be-
fit for sowing in  24 hours,  if required; but for
drilling,  two hours pickled will be best; and pre-
pared tour or five days before.
Mr Henderson's  method of  preventing  smut  in
                    wheat.
  Take  of best soft green soap, made from fish-oil,
I  pound, and of scalding water, 4 gallons. Put the
soap into a glazed vessel with a small portion of
the water; continue stirring it, and  add  the water
as it dissolves, till the whole is a perfect ley.  It
should be used about 90 deg.  of Fahrenheit's ther-
mometer, or new-milk warm.  Put the wheat into
a tub, and pour on it a quantity of the liquor suffi
cient to  cover it completely, and throAv  a blanket
over  it  to preserve  the  heat.  Stir it every ten
minutes, and take oft"  the scum.   When  it has
remained in this manner for an  hour,  drain the
liquor from  the  Avheat through a sieve,  or let the
tub be furnished Avith a drain bottom like a breAv-
iug vat.   Let the liquor which was drawn off' stand
a few minutes to subside, and then pour it off the
sediment.  Repeat the operation till the  whole
quantity  is  steeped, only  observe to add, each
time, as  much hot ley as was observed by the for-
mer steeping.  Dry  the  wheat with  quick lime,
and  sow as soon as convenient.   It will keep ten
days after steeping;  but  should be spread thin on
a dry floor.
  Three pounds of soap, and  12 gallons of  water,
will steep  half a ball of wheat.  If a tub Avith a
drain-bottom is  used, such as a hogshead, Avith a
spigot to draw off the ley, 4 ounces of soap, and 1
gallon of Avater scalding hot, will preserve a stock
of warm ley sufficient for any quantity  of wheat;
and, allowing 5 minutes for draining, five balls may
be done in  11  hours.  The  operation should be
performed  in a clean  place, at  a  distance from
barns and  granaries, the roofs of  which may he
observed hanging full  of smut.   The refuse  of
smutted wheat should be buried deep in the earth,
and not  thrown to the dung-hill, from which it
would be conveyed to the field.
Advantages of reaping corn before being perfectly
                     ripe.
  M. Cadet de Vaux has lately recommended, as
an important and useful innovation, the reaping of
corn before it  is perfectly ripe.   This practice
originated with M. Salles, of the Agricultural So-
ciety of Beziers: grain thus reaped (say eight days
before it is ripe) is fuller, larger, and finer,  and is
never attacked by the weevil.  This was proved by
reapinf one half of a piece of corn-field, as recom-
mended, and leaving the other till the usual time.
The early reaped portion gave a hectolitre (about 3
bushels) of corn more for an acre of land, than the
later-reaped. An equal  quantity of  flour from
each was made into bread;  that  made  from the
corn reaped green gave  seven pounds  of  bread
more than the other, iu two bushels.   The Aveevil
                                  2 a 
33C                          UNIVERSAL
■CEIPT BOOK.

 merly sown, in Britain, upon lands that had been
 previously summer fallowed, or were in high  con-
 dition; but  this mode of culture being in a great
 measure renounced, the common sort, Avhich  ad-
 mits of being sown  either early or late, is now
 generally used.
   The most proper  seed  season is any time in
 April, though we have seen good crops produced,
 the seed of Arhich was sown at a much later period.
             To prepare the ground.
   Barley is chiefly taken after turnips, sometimes
 after peas and beans, but rarely, by good  farmers,
 either after wbeat or oats, unless under special cir-
 cumstances.   When sown after turnips, it is gene-
 rally taken with one furrow, which is given as fast.
 as the turnips are consumed,  the ground thus re-
 ceiving much benefit from the spring frosts.  But
 often two or more  furrows are  necessary for  the
 fields  last   consumed;  because, when  a  spring
 drought sets in, the surface from being poached by
 the removal or consumption of the crop, gets so
 hardened as to render a greater quantity of plough-
 ing, harrowing, and rolling necessary,  than would
 otherwise be called for.  When sown after beans
 and peas,  one winter and  one  spring ploughing
 are  usually bestoAved: but, when alter wheat or
 oats, three ploughings are necessary,  so that the
 ground may be put in  proper condition.  These
 operations are very ticklish in a wet and backward
 season, and rarely in that case is the groAver paid
 for the expense of  his labour.  Where land is in
 such a situation as  to require three ploughings,
 before it can be seeded with barley, it is  better to
 summer fallow it  at once, than to run  the risks
 which seldom fail  to accompany a quantity of
 spring labour.  If the Aveather be dry,  moisture is
 lost during,the different processes, and an  imper-
 fect braird necessarily follows: if it be wet, the be-
 nefit of ploughing is lost, and  all the evils of a wet
 seed time are sustained by  the future crop.
                Quantity of seed.
   The quantity soavo is different in different cases,
 according to the quality of the soil and other cir-
 cumstances.  Upon very rich lands,  eight pecks
 per acre are sometimes sown; twelve is very com-
 mon;  and,  upon poor land,  more  is sometimes
 given.
   By good judges a quantity of seed is sown suffi-
 cient to insure a full crop, Avithout depending on
 its sending out offsets; indeed, where that is done,
 few offsets are produced, the crop grows and ripens
 equally, and the grain is uniformly good.
 Mr M' Cartney's invention for hummeliing barley.
   This invention is extremely simple, and the  cost
 only 3s.   It is a bit of notched stick or bar, lined
 on one side with a thin plate of  iron, and just the
 length of the rollers, fixed by a  screw-bolt at each
 end to the inside of the  cover of the drum, about
 the middle of it, so as the edge of the said notched
 stick is about one-eighth of an inch from the arms
 of the drum as it goes round.  Two minutes are
 sufficient to put it on, when its operation is wanted;
 which is when putting through the bear the second
 time; and  it is easily taken off.  It rubs off the
 awns or spikes to  admiration; and by putting the
 grain  another  time through  the mill, it will rub
 the husk off the ends  of the pickle so  entirely,
 that ;t is unnecessary to sow it afterwards.
               To harvest barley.
   More care is required in the harvesting  of bar-
 ley, than any of the other white  crops,  even in the
 best of seasons; and in bad years it is  often found
 very difficult to save it.  Owing  to the brittleness
 of the straw, after it has reached a certain period,
 it must be cut down; as, when it is suffered to stand
 longer, much loss is sustained by the breaking of
 the heads.  On  that account, it is cut al  a time
 attacked the ripe corn but not the green.  The
 proper time for reaping is Avhen the grain, pressed
 betAveen  the  fingers, has  a doughy appearance,
 like bread just hot from the oven, when pressed in
 the same way.
          To manage the wheat harvest.
  It is advantageous to cut wheat  before it is fully
 ripe; but, in ascertaining the proper state, it is ne-
 cessary to discriminate between  the ripeness of the
 straw and the ripeness of the grain; for, in some
 seasons, the straw dies upwards, under which cir-
 cumstance, a  field, to the eye,  may appear to  be
 completely fit  for the  sickle, when, in reality, the
 grain is imperfectly consolidated, and perhaps not
 much removed from a milky state.   Though it is
 obvious that under such circumstances, no further
 benefit can be conveyed from the root,and that nou-
 rishment is withheld the moment that the roots die:
 yet it does not follow that grain so circumstanced
 should be immediately cut; because, after that ope-
 ration is performed, it is in a great measure neces-
 sarily deprived of every benefit from the sun and
 air, both of which have greater influence in bringing
 it to maturity, so long as it remains on foot, than
 when cut do wn, whether laid on the ground or bound
 up  in sheaves.  The state of weather at the time
 also deserves  notice; for, as in  moist, or even va-
 riable weather, every kind  of grain, when cut pre-
 maturely, is more exposed to damage  than when
 completely ripened.   AH these things will be stu-
 died by the skilful husbandman, who  will also
 lake into consideration the dangers which may fol-
 low, were he to permit his wheat crop to remain
 uncut till completely ripened.   The danger from
 wind will not  be lost sight of, especially if the
 season of the equinox approaches; even Rie quan-
tity  dropped in the field, and  in the stack-yard,
 when wheat is over ripe, is an object of considera-
 tion. Taking all these things into  view, it seems
 prudent to have wheat cut before it is fully ripe,
 as less  damage will be sustained from acting in
 this way than by adopting a contrary practice.
  If the iveatherbe dry, and the  straw clean, wheat
 may be carted to the stack-yard in a few days;
 indeed,  if quite ripe, it may be stacked immedi-
 ately from the sickle, especially when  not  meant
 for early  threshing.   So long, however, as  any
 moisture  remains in  the straw, the field will be
 found to be the best  stack-yard; and where grass
 or weeds  of any  kind are mixed with the crop,
 patience must be exerted till they are decayed and
 dried, lest heating be occasioned.
                    Barley.
  Next to wheat, the most valuable grain is bar-
 ley, especially on light and sharp soils.
  It is a tender grain, and easily hurt in any of the
 stages of its growth, particularly at seed time:  a
 heavy shower  of rain will then almost  ruin a crop
 on the best prepared land; and in all the after pro-
 cesses, greater pains and attention are required to
 insure success, than  in the case of other grains.
 The harvest process is difficult, and often attended
 with danger; even the thrashing of it is not easily
 executed with machines, because the awn generally
 adheres to the grain, and renders separation from
 the straw a troublesome task.  Barley, in fact, is
 raised at greater expense than wheat, and generally
 speaking, is a more hazardous crop. Except upon
 rich and  genial  soils, where climate  will allow
 wheat to be  perfectly reared,  it ought not to be
 cultivated.
               Varieties of barley.
   Barley may be divided into two sorts, early and
 late; to which may  be added a bastard variety,
 called bear  or bigg, which  affords  similar nutri-
 ment  or substance,  though of  inferior quality.
 Early   barley, under various   names, was  for- 
                                         HUSB,

when the grain is soft, and the straw retainsa great
proportion of its natural juices, consequently re-
quires a long time in the field, before either the
grain is  hardened, or  the straw sufficiently dry.
When put into the stack sooner, it is apt to heat,
and  much  loss  is frequently  sustained.   It  is a
custom  with many farmers to have an opening in
the middle of their barley stacks, from top to bot-
tom.  This opening is generally made by placing
a large bundle of straw in the centre of the stack,
when the building commences, and, in proportion
as it rises, the straw is drawn  upwards, leaving a
hollow behind; which,  if one or two openings are
left in the side of the sfacK near the bottom, in-
sures so complete  a circulation of air as not  only
to prevent heating, but to preserve the grain from
becoming musty.
                Varieties of oats.
  Of this grain the varieties are more numerous
than of any other of the culmiferous tribe.   These
varieties  consist of what is called the common oat;
the Angus oat, which is considered as an improved
variety of the other; the Poland oat; the Friesland
oat; the red  oat; the dun oat; the Tartar,  or Sibe-
rian oat;  and the potatoe oat.   The Poland and
potatoe varieties are best adapted to rich soils; the
red oat for late climates; and the other varieties
for the generality of soils, of which the  British
isles  are composed.  The  Tartar, or Siberian
kind, though very hardy and prolific, is much out
of use, being of a coarse substance, and unproduc-
tive of meal.  The dun oat has never been much
cultivated, and the use of Poland's and Friesland's
is  now much circumscribed,  since  potatoe  oats
were introduced, the latter  being considered, by
the most discerning agriculturists, as of  superior
value, in  every respect, where the soil is rich and
properly cultivated.
            To prepare the ground.
  Oats are  chiefly sown after  grass; sometimes
upon land not rich enough for wheat, that had been
previously summer  fallowed, or had carried tur-
nips;  often after barley, and  rarely after wheat,
unless cross-cropping, from particular circumstan-
ces, becomes a necessary evil.   One ploughing is
generally given to the grass lands, usually in  the
mouth of January, so that the benefit of frost  may
be gained, and the land sufficiently mellowed for
receiving the harrow.  In  some cases a spring fur-
row is given, when oats succeed wheat or barley,
especially when grass seeds are to  accompany the
crop.  The  best oats, both in quantity and quality,
are always those which succeed grass; indeed, no
kind of grain seems better qualified by nature for
foraging upon grass land than oaft; as a full crop
is usually obtained in the first instance,  and  the
land left  in good order for succeeding ones.
                Quantity of seed.
  From twelve to eighteen pecks of seed is gene-
rally allowed to the Scottish acre of ground, ac-
cording to the richness of the soil,  and the variety
that is cultivated.  Here it may be remarked, that
land, sown  with potatoe oats, requires much less
seed, in point of measure,  than when any of the
other sorts are used; because potatoe oats both til-
ler well,  much better than  Poland ones, and have
not an awn or tail, like the ordinary varieties.  On
that account, a measure contains many more seeds
of them than of any other kind.  If land is equally
well cultivated, there is little  doubt but that the
like quantity of  seed given when barley  is culti-
vated, may be safely trusted to when potatoe oats
are to be raised.
                To harvest oats.
  Oats are  a hardy grain,  and  rarely get much
damage  when under the  harvest process, except
from nigh winds or  from  shedding, when opened
WDRY.                                    331 -

i out after being  thoroughly wetted.  The early
  varieties are much more liable to these losses than
  the late ones, because the grain parts more easily
  from the straw, an evil to which the best of grain
  is at all times subject.  Early oats, however, may
I be cut a little quick, which, to a certain  extent,
  lessens the danger to which they are exposed from
  high winds; and if the sheaves be made small, the
  danger from shedding after rains is considerably
  lessened,  because they are thus sooner ready for
  the stack.   Under every management, however, a
  greater quantity of early oats will be  lost during
  the harvest process than of late (<nes; because the
  latter adhere firmly to the straw, and consequently
  do not drop so easily as the former.
                 'Jo cultivate rye.
    Rye ought never to be sown upon wet soils, nor
  even  upon  sandy soils  where the sub-soil is of a
  retentive nature.   Upon downs, links, and  all soft
  lands, which have received manure, this grain
  thrives in perfection, and, if once covered in, will
  stand a drought  afterwards, that would  consume
  any of the culmiferous tribe.  The several  pro-
  cesses may be regarded as  nearly the  same  with
  those recommended for wheat, with the single ex-
  ception of pickling, which rye does not require.
  Rye  may  be  sown either in  winter or spring,
  though the winter-seeded  fields are  f<»nerally
  bulkiest  and most  productive.   It  may  succeed
  either summer fallow, clover or turnips; even aftei
  oats, good crops have been raised, and where such
  crops are  raised,  the land will always be found in
  good condition.
                To cultivate beans.
    Beans naturally succeed a culmiferous crop; and
  we believe it is not of much importance which of
  the varieties are followed, provided  the ground is
  in decent order, and not worn out by the previous
  crop.  The furrow  ought to be given early  in win-
  ter, and as deep as possible, that the earth may be
  sufficiently loosened, and room  afforded for the
  roots of the plant to search for the requisite nour-
  ishment.  The first furrow is usually given across
  the field, which is the best method when only one
  spring furrow  is  intended;  but as it is now ascer-
  tained, that tAvo spring  furrows are highly advan-
  tageous, the  one  in winter ought to be given in
  length, which lays the ground in a better situation
  for resisting the rains, and renders i\ sooner dry in
  spring, than can be the case when ploughed across.
  On the supposition, that three furrows are to  be
  given, one in winter, and two in  spring, the fol-
  lowing is the most eligible preparation:
           Approved modes of drilling.
    The land being ploughed in  length as early hi
  winter as is practicable, and the gaw and headland
  furrows sufficiently digged out,  take the  second
  furrow across the first as soon as the ground is dry
  enough in spring to undergo the operation; water-
  furrow it immediately, and dig again the gaw and
I head-land furroAVs, otherwise the benefit  of the
I second furrow may be lost.  This being done,
| leave the field for some days, till it is sufficiently
j dry, when a cast of the  harrows becomes necessa-
' ry, so that the surface may be  levelled.  Then
 : enter with the ploughs,  and form the drills, which
| are generally made up with an interval of 27 inches.
  In the hollow of this interval, deposit the seed by
  a drill-barrow, and  reverse or  slit  out the drills
  to cover the seed, which  finishes the process for
  the time.  In  ten or  twelve days afterwards, ac-
  cording to the  state of the weather,  cross-harrow
  the drills, thereby levelling the field for the hoeing
  process.   Water-furrow the whole in a neat mau
  ner, aud  spade and shovel  the gaw and the head-
  land furrows, which concludes the whole  process
    This is the most approved way of drilling beans.  *
VNDRY. 
ECEIPT BOOK.
 332                         UNIVERSAL RI

 The next best is to give only one spring furrow,
 and to run  the  drill-barrow  after every  third
 plough, in which way, the intervals are nearly of
 the same extent as already mentioned.  Harrowing
 is  afterwards required,  before the young  plants
 reach  the surface, and  water-furrowing, he. as
 above  described.
   Dung is often given to beans,  especially  when
 ibey succeed wheat which had not received ma-
 nure.  The best way is to apply the dung on the
 stubble before the winter furrow  is given, which
 greatly facilitates the after process.  Used in this
 way, a fore stc*'c must be in hand; but where the
 farmwr is not so Avell provided, spring dunging be-
 comes necessary, though evidently of less advan-
 tage.  At that  season, it may either be put into the
 drills before the seed is  sown, or spread upon the
 surface and  ploughed down, according to the na-
 ture of the drilling process which is meant to be
 adopted.   Land dunged to beans, if duly hoed, is
 always in high  order for carrying a crop of wheat
 in succession.  Perhaps better wheat, both in re-
 spect of quantity and quajity, may be cultivated in
 this way,  than in any other mode of sowing.
               Drilling machines.
  Different machines have been invented for  drill-
 ing beans; but the most common and handy is one
 of the  jarrow  form.   This hand drill is pushed
 forward by a man or  woman, and  will, according
 as the  brush or director is lowered or heightened,
 sow thicker or thinner, as may be expedient and
 necessary.  Another  machine, drawn by a horse,
 and sowing 3 drills at a time, has been constructed,
 and, upon flat  lands,  will certainly distribute the
 seed with the most  minute exactness.  Upon un-
 equal fields, and  even on those laid  out in high
 ridges, the use  of this machine is attended with a
 degree of inconvenience sufficient to  balance its
 advantages.  The  hand-drill, therefore, in all
probability, will be retained for general use, though
the other  is capable of performing the work with
 minuter regularity.
               Quantity of seed.
  Less than 4 bushels ought  not to be hazarded, if
 a full  crop is  expected.  We  seldom have seen
 thin beans turn  out well, unless the soil is particu-
 larly rich: nay, unless the rows close, weeds will
get away  after the cleaning process is finished,
thereby disappointing the object  of drilling, and
rendering the system of little avail towards keep-
 ing the ground  in good condition.
               Hoeing process.
  Beans are cleaned in various ways;  1st. By the
 hand hoe.  2d. By the scraper,  or Dutch  hoe.
3d. By a plough  of small dimensions,  but  con-
 structed upon the principles  of the approved swing
plough.   Ploughs with  double mould-boards are
 likewise used to earth them up; and, wilh all good
 managers, the weeds in the drills, which cannot be
 touched by the hoe, are pulled out by the hand,
 otherwise  no  field can  be  considered  as  duly
 cleaned.
  In treating of the  cleaning process,  we  shall
 confine ourselves to the one  most suited to the
 generality of bean soils.   About ten or twelve days
 after the  young plants  have appeared above the
 surface, enter with the scraper,  and  loosen any
 weeds  that may have vegetated. At this time, the
 wings, or cutters, of the implement ought to be
 particularly sharp, so that the scraper may not run
 too deep,  and throw the earth ujion the plants. In
 about ten  days after the ground is scraped, accord-
 ing to the state of the weather, and other circum-
 stances, use the small swing plough to lay the  earth
 away from the sides of the rows; and, in doing so,
 go as near to the plants as possible, taking care, at
 tlie same time,  not to  loosen  their roots.  If any
weeds stand  in  the  rows, pull them out with the
hand; afterwards earth-up the plants with the small
swing plough, or run the scraper in the intervals,
as may seem  expedient.
            To manage tlie hat-vest.
  Before beans are cut, the grain ought to be tol-
erably Avell ripened, otherwise the quality is im-
paired, whilst a long time is required to put the
straw in such a condition as to be preserved in the
stack.  In an early harvest, or where the crop is
not Aveighty,  it is an easy matter to get beans suffi-
ciently ripened;  but, in a late harvest, and in every-
one Avhere the crop takes on a second growth, il is
scarcely practicable to get them thoroughly ri(»en-
ed for the sickle.  Under these circumstances, it
is unnecessary to let beans stand  uncul  sfter the
end of September or the first of October; because
any benefit that can  be gained afterwards, is not to
be compared  with the disadvantages that accom-
pany a late wheat seed time.   Beans are usually
cut with the sickle, and tied in sheaves, either with
straw ropes, or with ropes made from pease sown
along with them.  It is proper to  .et the sheaves
lie untied several days, so that the winding pro-
cess may be hastened, and, when tied, to  set them
up on end, in order that full benefit from air may
be obtained, and  the grain kept oft" the  ground.
In building bean stacks, it is an useful measure,
for preserving both  grain and  straw from injury,
to keep an opening  in  the centre,  and  to convey
air from the extremity by a hole, or funnel. Beans,
on the while, are a troublesome crop to the far-
mer,  though  of great  utility  in  oilier respects.
Without ihem heavy soils can scarcely be managed
with advantage,  unless summer fallow is  resorted
to once in four years; but, by the aid derived from
drilled beans, summer fallow may be avoided  for
eight years, whilst the ground, at that period, will
be found  in equal, if not superior condition.
              To cultivate peas.
  Peas are partially sown with beans to great ad-
vantage ;  and, when cultivated in  this way, th*.1
same  system  of preparation, &c. described under
the head of beans, is to be adopted.  Indeed, upon
many soils not deep  enough for beans,  a  mixture
of peas to the extent of one-third of the seed sown
proves highly advantageous.   The  beans  serve as
stabs or props to the peas, and the latter,  being
thus kept off  the  ground, and furnished  with  air
and other atmospherical nutriment, blossom and
pod with much greater effect than  when sown ac-
cording to the broad-cast system.
  Peas agree  well with  lime and other calcareous
stimulants, and can hardly be reaped in perfection
where these are wanting.  The varieties cultivated
are numerous; but  those  adapted  to field culture
may be divided into two kinds, namely, early and
late, though these branch out again into several
varieties.  We have white peas both early and late,
and likewise grey peas, possessed of similar pro-
perties.   The nomenclature is entirely arbitrary,
and therefore not to be illustrated.   As a general
rule, the best seed  time for late peas is  either in
February or March, though early ones, such as the
Hastings, or Magpiehill pea, may be sown success-
fully after the 1st of May.
  Peas ought to be sown tolerably thick so that
the ground may be covered as early as possible.
              To cultivate tares.
  The tare is a plant of a hardy growth, and  when
sown upon rich land will return a large supply of
green fodder, for the consumption of horses, or
for fattening cattle.   When intended for  this use,
the seed  ought to be sown tolerably thick, perhaps
to the extent of four  bushels per Scots  acre,
though, when intended to stand tor seed,  a less
quantity is required; because otherwise the thick- 
HUSBANDRY.
333
ness of the crop will prevent the plants from blos-
soming and podding in  a  suffic:ent way.  When
meant for seed, early sowing ought to be studied,
otherwise die return will be imperfect; but  Avhen
for green food, any time betwixt the first of April
and the latter end of May will  answer well, pro-
vided crops in successiqn from the first to the last
mentioned period  be  regularly  cultivated.  In-
stances are not wanting of a full crop being ob-
tained even when the seed Avas soAvn so late as the
middle of June, though sowing so late is a practice
not to be recommended.  After the seed is sown,
and the land carefully  harrowed, a light  roller
ought to be drawn across, so that the surface may
be smoothed, and the scythe permitted  to  Avork
without  interruption.   It  is proper also to guard
the field for several  days against  the depredations
Of pigeons, who are remarkably fond of tares, and
will pick up; great part of the seed, unless con-
stantly watched.
  Horses thrive very well upon tares, even  better
than they  do upon clover and rye grass; and the
same remark is applicable to fattening cattle, who
feed faster upon this article of green fodder than
upon any kind of grass, or esculent, with which
we are acquainted.   Danger often arises from their
eating too many, especially when podded; as colic?,
and other stomach disorders,  are apt  to  be pro-
duced by the excessive loads which they devour.
                   Potatoes.
  Potatoes, as an article of human food, are, next
lo wheat, of the greatest importance in the eye of
a political economist.   From no other crop that
an be cultivated will  the  public derive so much
food as from this valuable esculent; and it admits
of demonstration, that  an  acre  of potatoes will
feed double the number of people that can be fed
from an acre of wheat.   Potatoes are also a nour-
ishing and healthy food, relished a'.most by every
palate; and without them it  is  believed there is
hardly a dinner served up  for six months of tlie
year in any part of the kingdom.
            To prepare the ground.
  To work the ground till it is completely reduced
affll free from root weeds,  may be considered as a
desideratum in potatoe husbandry; though in  many
seasons these operations cannot be perfectly exe-
cuted, without losing the proper time for planting,
which never ought to be beyond the first of  May,
if circumstances  do not  absolutely  interdict it.
Three ploughings, with frequent harrowings and
rollings,  are necessary in  most  cases,  before the
land is in suitable condition.  When this is accom-
plished, form the drills as if they were for turnips;
cart the manure, which  ought not to be sparingly
applied, plant the seed above the manure, reverse
the drills for covering it and the seed, then harrow
tlie drills in length,  which completes the prepara-
tion and seed process.
               Quantity of seed.
  It is not advantageous to cut the seed into  small
slips; for the  strength of the stem at the outset de-
pends in  direct proportion upon the  vigour and
power of  the seed-plant.  The seed-plant,  there-
fore, ought to  be  large, rarely smaller than the
fourth part of the  potatoe; and if the seed is of
small size, one half of the potatoe may be profita-
bly used.   At all events, rather  err in  giving over
large seed than in making it too small; because, by
the first error, no great loss can ever be sustained;
whereas, by the other, a feeble and late crop may
be tlie consequence.  Wheh the seed  is properly
cut, it requires from  10 to 12 hundred weight of
potatoes to plant an acre of ground, where the rows
are at £7 inches distance; but this quantity depends
greatly upon the size of the potatoes used; if they
to large, a greater weight may be required, but
the extra quantity will  b& abundantly repaid by
the superiority of crop which large seed usually
produces.
     Advantageous method of raising them.
  The earth should be dug twelve inches deep, if
the soil will alloAv it; after this, a hole should be
opened about six inches deep, and horse-dung, or
long litter, should be put therein, about three inch-
es thick; this hole should not be more  than twelve
inches diameter.  Upon this dung or litter a pota-
toe should be  planted Avhole, upon which a little
more dung should be  shaken, and then the earth
should be put thereon.  In  like manner the whofe
plot of ground must be planted, taking care that the
potatoes be at  least sixteen inches apart.  When
the young shoots  make  their  appearance, they
should have fresh mould drawn round them with
a hoe; and if the tender shoots are covered, it  will
prevent the frost from injuring them;  they should
again be earthed when the shoots  make a second
appearance, but not covered, as in all probability
the season will be less severe.
  A plentiful  supply  of mould should be given
them, awl the  person who performs this  business
should never tread upon the plant, or the hillock
that is raised round it, as the lighter the earth is,
the more room the potatoe will have to expand.
  A gentleman obtained from a  single root, thus
planted, very nearly forty pounds  weight of large
potatoes; and from almost every other root upon the
same plot of ground, from fifteen to twenty pounds
weight; and, except the soil be stony or gravelly,
ten pounds, or half a peck, of potatoes, may gene-
rally be obtained  from each root, by pursuing the
foregoing method.
  But  note—cuttings, or small sets wil' not ito for
this purpose.
    Mode of taking up and storing the crop.
  Potatoes are generally dug  up with  a  three-
prong grape, or fork; but at other times, Avhen tlie
weather  is dry, the plough is used, which  is  the
most expeditious implement.  After gathering the
interval,  the furrow taken by the plough is bro-
ken and separated, in  which way the crop may be
more completely gathered than when taken  up by
the grape.  The potatoes are then stored up for
winter and spring use; and as it is of importance Co
keep them us long through summer a,s possible,
every  endeavour  ought to be made  to  preserve
them from frost, and from sprouting in the spring
months.   The former is accomplished by covering
them well with straw when lodged in a house, anil
by a thick coat of earth, when deposited  in a pit;
and the latter, by pickwig them carefully,  at dif-
ferent times, when they  begin to sprout, drying
them sufficiently by exposure to the  sun; or  by a
gentle toast of a kiln.
   Method of cultivating potatoes in  Ireland.
  The drill system, in the cultivation  of potatbeii
in Ireland, is particularly recommended  by Lonfl
Farnham, in a letter  to Sir John Sinclair.  The
small  farmers, and  labourers, plant them in lazy-
beds, eight feet Avide.   This mode is practised os
account of the want of necessary  implements fot
practising the  drill  system, together with a wan!
of horses for the same purpose.
  They are cut into sets, three from a large pota-
toe; and each set to contain at least one eye.  Tim
sets are planted  at the distance  of seven inches
asunder, 6^ cavl are considered sufficient seed fbt
an English acre.  Lord Farnham recommends rot
ten dung in preference to any fresh  dung.  If not
to be procured, horse-dung, hot from the dunghill.
In any soil he would  recommend the  dung below
the seed.
   When the  potatoes are vegetated  ten inches
above  the surface, the scuffler must be introduced, 
334
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
and cast the mould from the potatoe. If any weeds
are found in the drills, they must be hand-hoed;
in three days afterwards they must be moulded up
by the double-breasted plough, as high as the neck
of the potatoe.  This mode  must  be  practised
twice, or in some cases three times; particularly if
the land is foul.  I  do not (says Lord Farnham)
consider any mode  so good as the drill system.
             General observations.
  To prepare for  the drill system  either oat or
wheat stubble, it should be ploughed in October,
or the beginning of November; to  be  ploughed
deep, and laid up for winter dry.  In March let U
be harrowed, and give it three clean earths.   Be
veiy particular to eradicate the couch grass.  The
drills .0 be three feet asunder; drill deep the first
time that there is room in the bottom of the fur-
row to contain the dung.  The best time to begin
planting the potatoes, is about  the  latter end of
April, by this system.  It is as good a preparation
for wheat as the best fallows.
  Three feet and a half for drills, are preferable to
four feet.   Mr Curwen prefers four feet and a
half.  He says, the produce is  immense.  Pota-
toes  ought to be cut at least from two to three
weeks before being planted; and if planted very !
early, whole potatoes are  preferable to cut ones,
and dung under and over.
   To produce early potatoes in great quantity.    I
  Early potatoes may be produced in great quan-
tity by  resetting  the  plants, after taking  off  the i
ripe  and  large ones.   A  gentleman at Dumfries j
has re-planted them six different times in one sea- .
son, Aiithout any additional manure; and, instead of
falling off in quantity, he gets a larger crop of ripe
ones at eve-y raising, than the former ones.  His
plants have still on them three distinct crops, and
he supposes they  may still continue to vegetate-
and germinate until they are stopped by the frost.
By this mean3 he has a new crop every eight days,
and has had so for a length of time.
'To grow potatoes constantly on tlie same piece  of
                   ground.
  Let the cuttings  be made from the finest pota-
toes,  instead of the smallest and worst, usually em-
ployed  for the purpose; and il will be found, con-
trary to  Avh^t is  supposed by farmers, that they
will not degenerate.  The same will happen with
respect to the seeds of the watery squash, early
peas, and several other kinds of  vegetables.
         To preserve potatoes from frost.
  This is best done by filling completely the place
where they are deposited, whether it be a house or
a pit, and allowing the place to remain shut dur-
ing  the  wintor.  But this cannot be done easily
with  a potatoe-house,  as  it cannot be completely
packed or filled like a pit. Besides, some potatoes
are generally wanted daily; and thus air is admit-
ted, and a greater vacuity constantly making, both
which are very likely to be the  means of proving
 njurious  or destructive to what potatoes may be in
the house, when a severe frost sets in.  There is
no such thing in nature as a vacuum; therefore, if
a place is not filled with some substanee or other,
it will be filled Avith air.   For this reason, pits are
better for preserving potatoes from frost than  a
house, because a pit can be more effectually filled:
and, by opening a pit when potatoes are  wanted,
and removing the whole into some part of a house,
and  still  keeping over them a covering of straw,
turf, or divot, the potatoes  are kept  close.   A
 |>otaloe-liouse, hoivever, is very useful, and what
every farmer ought to have,  as in this house he
 may still  keep  a small quantity  of his crop  for
 daily use, by emptying  a pit  occasionally,  and
 keeping them always well covered with straw, as
 nas been already mentioned.
  The potatoe-house  ought to be well plastered
with clay, and perfectly dry jefore using it.
  Polatoe-pits should be made upon ground that
has a southern exposure, a deep soil, and declining
to a considerable distance from the pit.   In a deep
soil, the pits can be made sufficiently deep, before
reaching any cold bottom: and the declivity carries
aAiay Avater.  When the pits have been fully finish-
ed, and covered, a spd should  be  cut out all tlie
way round the potatoes, and the cut continued a
little way as the descent points  out.   A pit of
about ten feet  deep, six Avide, and ten  long, will
hold from four to six cart loads of potatoes.  The
covering should consist of straw, fern, rushes, he.
next the potatoe, then the Avhole of the  earth dug
out should be throAvn  upon the heap; and, last ot
all, a covering of earth or divot, if done in the best
way.  This covering will be about tAvo foot thick.
                Another method.
  The best and easiest way of preserving potatoes,
is for the  farmer to  drive all his potatoes home,
and to'lay them upon  dry ground, without break-
ing the surface, and as near the stables as possible;
pulling them in heaps of about three or four carts,
.hen covering  them wilh straw, and, above that,
with turf, where it can  be commanded, or Avith a
neat thatching of straw.  Then  let a quantity of
stable dung, of the roughest kind, and the newest,
be laid upon each heap,  to remain during the Avin-
ler,  but  which  must be removed  in the spring.
As the  weather appears severe,  the quantity of
dung may he increased at pleasure.  If this prac-
tice  were adopted, few or no potatoes Avould be
penetrated by the frost, as none would  be in ha-
zard, except one pit, or part of it, when it Avas re-
moving, dr placed in the potatoe-house, during the
winter season.
          To remove frost from potatoes.
  The weathe;'which soonest injures and destroys
potatoes, is when  the  atmosphere  is  depressed
with cold to such a degree that it congeals water;
then potatoes, unless covered, will be frosted; and
the  cover proper  to  preserve them ought to be
proportioned to the intenseness of the weather.
  Potatoes, when slightly frosted, so as to have ac-
quired a slight sweet taste only, often, like an ani-
mal body  suddenly infected  by  some disorder,
which  it throws  off by perspiration, are found
quite wet, throwing out the frost by a kind of per-
spiration.  When they are in this state, in order
to recover them, and bring them to a proper taste,
the whole quantity infected should be turned over,
and  a quantity of mill seeds thrown among them,
as they are turned over; this both extracts and ab-
sorbs the injured  moisture  from the body of the
potatoes infected.  But there is still a more power-
ful remedy than  simply mixing them with  mill-
seeds, and that is a small quantity of slacked lime,
perfectly dry, mixed among the seeds to be  used;
which  has a  veiy wondertul effect in recovering
potatoes that have been considerably injured by
frost.
  When frosted potatoes are to be used, either at
the  table,  or  given  to horses,  black cattle, or
swine, plunging them in cold  water, about half  a
day before using them, is of great advantage; and
if put into running water, so much the better, as it
has been proved v.0 be .more powerful in extracting
the  frost, on account of its alterative quality and
superior purity.
                Another method.
  Another way of removing frost from potatoes,
when they are to be prepared for the table, is to
strip them of their skins, and, if large, to cut them
into two or more pieces; theu  to plunge them into
cold water for a considerable time, with a handful
of salt in the water; and, when put on to be boiled, 
HUSBANDRY.
S36
put as rauch salt into the water as possible, not to
make them too salt when boiled.
  This is a powerful way of making the potatoe
throw off the bad taste and spoiled quality lodged
in its substance.
  When prepared for  horses, black  cattle, and
swine:—Salt, or saltpetre, put among the potatoes,
and  boiled together, will destroy any  injurious
quality  which  frost has  lodged  or brought on.
Chaff or oats, bruised in a mill,  boiled  with the
frosted  potatoes,  when  designed for horses  or
cattle, tends to destroy the bad effects of  the frost.
Uses to which frosted potatoes may be beneficially
                    applied.
  When potatoes have  acquired  a disagreeable
taste by means of frost, they will  make good and
wholesome bread,  by boiling them, as has been
mentioned, Avith  salt, mashing or bruising  them
small, then kneading them together with oatmeal.
Not less than two-thirds should  consist of meal,
which will destroy the sweet taste; and the dry and
generous quality of the  meal will  effectually cor-
rect and destroy any thing noxious in the injured
roots.
  Horses, swine, dogs, he. may all be  fed with
potatoes, though frosted, by boiling  them, and
mixing thehi  with oats coarsely ground, or with
oat-meal; always adding a good quantity of salt or
salt-petre in the mixture.  Poultry also may be fed
with potatoes very much frosted, if mixed with
oat-meal in about equal  proportions, without salt,
as this species of animal cannot admit of it.
        Further uses of frosted potatoes.
  Potatoes frosted, Avnen three  times distilled,
produce a spirit from hydrometer proof to ten per
cent, over proof; therefore a principal purpose and
use to which they may be turned,  is the  making
of alcohol; more particularly as that article is use-
ful for many purposes where strength is its princi-
pal recommendation.  The ordinary strength that
spirits are run, preparatory to converting them into
alcohol, is from 40 to 50  per  cent, over  proof by
Dicas; which, re-distilled from calcined carbonate
of potash, will produce alcohol at 825, Avater being
1000.
  When potatoes  are frosted  to such a degree as
to be  useless for food from their sweet taste, they
are very useful to weavers in dressing their yarn,
and particularly cotton.  They are  prepared  for
this purpose by boiling them well;  then  mash  or
beat them small;  then put them into a vessel,
adding a  little barm,  drippings of ale or porter
barrels: allowing them to staud two or three months
to ferment.
  Shoemakers may use it also; only, as their paste
requires more solidity and greater strength, flour
is generally mixed along with the fermented pota-
toes, in about f;qual proportions.
  Bookbinders also may use this paste, alum being
mixed to assist the strength of the composition.
And it may be beneficially used by paper"stainers
and  upholsterers, when made up  with a mixture
of flour and alum.
  When potatoes are so penetrated with frost that
they have become quite soft, they are useless  for
man or beast; but make excellent manure for light
sharp soils; Mid for this purpose are Avorth about
one-fifth or sixth of their original value.   In Ber-
wickshire, and other  places, where it is a great
object to get their straAv turned into dung, the
value of the  frosted potatoe  is still greater, as it
assists the farmer  in that operation.
      To make starch from frosted potatoes.
   Potatoes much frosted  will make  very  good
6tarch; though it is a shade darker in colour.  All
coarse cloths  requiring  to  be stiffened, where
whiteness is no  object, may be done with starch
 made from potatoes greatly penetrated with frost.
 The best method of making potatoes into starch,
 is to grate them down among water, then to take
 out all the refuse with the hand, and  next to strain
 the Avhole of the water in Avhich the potatoes have
 been grated, through  a thin cloth, rather coarse,
 or fine sieve, and afterivards frequently putting on
 and pouring off water, until it  conies clear from
 the starch, which is always allowed to  settle or
 fall to the bottom of the vessel in  which the opera-
 tion is performed.  An experiment Was tried with
 a few potatoes that were put out to  frost.   They
 M'ere grated doivn, and made into  starch  poAvder:
 The' produce of  the  fresh po'fAtoe  weighed 876
 grains, while that  of the frosted Avas only 412,
 being less than half the quantity.
   Tlie refuse of the potatoe, when taken from the
 sieve, possesses the property of cleansing woollen
 cloths without hurting their colours; and the water
 decanted from the  starch powder is excellent for
 cleansing silks, without the smallest injury to their
 colour.  In making hair-powder it has long been
 used, and is therefore well known.
                    7 'iirnips.
   The benefits derived from turnip husbandry are
 of great magnitude; light soils are cultivated with
 profit and facility; abundance of food is provided
 for m»in and beast; the earth is  turned to the uses
 for which it is physically calculated:  and by being
 suitably cleaned with  this preparatory crop, a bed
 is provided for grass seeds, wherein  they flourish
 and prosper with greater  vigour than after any
 other preparation.
             To prepare the ground.
   The first ploughing is given  immediately after
 •harvest, or as soon as  the wheat seed is finished,
I either in length or across the field, as cirpumstan-
 ces may seem to require.  In this stattyhe ground
 remains till  the oat seed is finished, when a second
 ploughing is given to  it, usually in a contrary di-
 rection to tlie first. It  is then repeated!, harrowed,
 often  rolled  between Ihe harrowings, and every
! particle of root-weeds  carefully picked oft' Avith the
 hand; a third ploughing is then  bestowed, and the
 other operations are repeated.  In this  stage, if
 the ground has not been A-ery foul,  the seed process
 generally commences; but often a fourth plough-
 ing, sometimes a fifth,  is  necessaiy, before the
 ground is sufficiently clean.  Less labour, however,
 is necessaiy now than  in  former times, when a
 more regular mode of cropping  was  commonly
i followed.
                To sow the seed.
   The next part of the process is the sowing of the
 seed;  this, almost in every case  since  turnips were
 introduced into this country, has been performed
 by drilling machines,  of different sizes and con-
 structions, though all  acting on the  same princi-
 ple.  At this time, the  machine is drawn by a
 horse in a pair of shafts, sows two drills at a lime,
 and answers extremely well, where the ground is
j flat, and the drills properly made up.  The weight
i of the machine insures  a regularity of  sowing
; hardly to be gained  by those of a different  size and
i construction.  From two to three  pounds of seed
! are sown upon the acre, though  the smallest of
1 these quantities will  give  many  more plants, in
 ordinary seasons, than are necessary; but as the
 seed is not  an expensive article,  the greater part
 of farmers incline to  sow thick, which both pro
 vides against the danger of part of the seed peri sit-
 ing, and gives the young  plants an  advantage at
 the outset.
   Turnips are sown from the beginning to the end
 of Junet,  but the second and third weeks of the
 month are, by judicious  farmers, accounted the
 most proper time.  Some people have sown  as 
336
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 e"rly as May, and with advantage; but these early
 fields  are apt to run to seed before winter, espe-
 cially  if the autumn be  favourable to vegetation.
 As a general  rule, it may be laid  down, that  the
 earliest sowings should be on the latest soils; plants
 on such  soils are often long before they make any
 great progress; and, in the end, may be fir behind
 those  in other situations, which were much later
 sown.   The turnip plant, indeed, does not thrive
 rapidly till its roots reach the dung; and the pre-
 vious nourishment afforded them is often so scanty
 as to stunt them altogether before they get so far.
               Cleamng process.
   The first thing to be  done in this process is to
 run a  horse-hoe,  provincially termed a scraper,
 along me intervals, keeping at such a distance from I
 Ihe  young plants  that tf.ey shall not be injured; |
 this operation destroys all the annual weeds which |
 have sprung up, and leaves the plants standing in ]
 regular stripes or  rows.  The hand-hoeing then
 commences, by which the turnips are  all  singled
 out, at a distance of from eight to  twelve  inches,
 and the redundant ones drawn into the spaces be-
 tween  the rows.  The singling out of the young
 plants  is an operation of great importance, for an
 error committed in this process can hardly be af-
 terwards rectified.   Boys and girL are always em-
 ployed as hoers; but a steady and trusty man-ser-
 vant is usually set over them, to see that the work
 be properly executed.
  In eight or ten days, or such a length of  time as
 r.ircumstances may require, a horse-hoe of a dif-
 ferent  construction from the scraper is used. This,
 in fact, is generally a small plough, of the  same
 kind with that commonly wrought, but of smaller
 dimensions.   My this implement, the earth  is
 pared away from the sides of the drills, and a sort
 of new ridge formed in the middle of the former
 interval.  The hand-hoers  are again set to work,
 and  every weed and surperfluous turnip is  cut up;
 •fteiAvards the horse-hoe is  employed to separate
 the  earth,  which it  formerly threw  into the fur-
 ,-ows, and lay it back to the sides of the drills.
 On dry lands this is done by the scraper; but where
 Ihe least tendency to  moisture prevails, the small
 plough is used, in  order that the furrows may be
 perfectly cleaned out.  This latter mode, indeed,
 is very generally practised.
         To cultivate the yellow  turnip.
  This variety, as  now cultivated ir. the field, is
 quite different from the yellow garden tnmip, be-
 ing larger in size, containing more juice, or nu-
 tritive  substance, much easier cultivated, and pre-
 serving its powers till the middle of May, when the
grass-season may  he expected.   Upon ordinary
soils it is superior  to ruta  oaga, because  it will
grow to  a considerable  weight,  where the other
 would  be stunted or starved; and it stands the frost
equally well.   No farmer who keeps stock to any
extent  should be without it.  The mode of culture
 required is in every respect similar to what is sta-
 ted concerning common  turnips, with these  ex-
ceptions, that earlier sowing is necessary, and that
the plants need not be set out so wide as they do
 not swell to such a size.
         Ruta baga or Swedish turnip.
  The  process of management is precisely the same
with that of turnips, with this addition, that more
dung is required, and that seed time  ought to be
three or four weeks earlier.  Rich  soil, however,
is required for this article: for it  will not grow to
any size worthwhile, on soils of middling quality,
whatever quantity of dung may be applied.
  Ruta baga is of great advantage in the feeding of
horses, either  when given raw or boiled, or  with
broken corn.   If a sufficient quantity were cultiva-
ted,  3  great deal of grain might be  saved, while
  the health and condition of the working stock would
  be greatly frvigo-ated and augmented.   An even-
  ing feed of ibis nutritious article Avould  be of in-
  calculable benefit; even most  horses are fond of the
  common  turnip in  a  raw state; and it is a subject
  well  worthy of every farmer's attention, whether
  it would not he for  his interest to raise these escu-
  lents  in such a quantity as to serve them during the
I  long period Avhen grass cannot be obtained.  That '•'
i  the health of the animals would thereby be bene-
  fited  is unquestionable;  and  the saving  of grain
  would greatly exceed the trouble  occasioned by
  furnishing a daily supply of these roots.
           To destroy tlie fly on turnips.
    Lime sown by the hand, or distributed by a ma-
  chine, is an infallible  protection to turnips against
  the ravages of the fly.   It should be applied as soon
  as the turnips come up, and in the same  daily ro-
  tation in which they were soAvn.  The lime should
  be slaked immediately before it is used; if the air
  be not sufficiently  moist lo render that operation
  unnecessary.
   Another method.—Let the farmer carefully watch
 his turnips as they come up, and whenever the fly
 makes its appearance, take a certain quantity oi
 brimstone, about 2J or 3 lbs.  to an  acre; put this
 into a kettle, and melt it in the turnip-field, in a
 situation the most eligible for  the wind to carry the
 fume over the ground; then take any combustible
'• matter calculated to make a  considerable smoke^
 which, being dipped in the liquid brimstone, must
 be strewed all over the field in a state of ignition,
 and so close together that the fumes  of the burning
 matter may completely  cover every part  of the
 ground.  The aecoction  of the bitter almond ra
 more  fatal to the lives of insects and worms than
 any other vegetable or mineral poison.  It is made
 by infusing the bitter  almond  powder (the ground
 cakes  that remain after expressing the oil) in warm
 water for  24  hours; 28 lbs. (which may be pur-
 chased for 5s.) will  mako 40  gallons, a  sufficient
 quantity for a large garden.
     Remedy against the bite of the turnip fly.
   It is upon the  principle of creating an  oft'ensiw
 smell  that turnip seed is recommended to be steep-
 ed ii.  train oil before it is sown.   This has been
 found  to be  a perfect  security against the bite of
 the turnip fly.
           'To prevent the fly in turnips.
   Sow good and fresh seed in well-manured and
 Avell-prepared ground.
  To prevent the increase of pismires ingra.<>s lands
                newly laid down.
   Make a strong decoction of walnut-tree leaves,
 and after opening several of  the pismire's si<ntN>
 habitations, pour upon them a quantity of the  lfc-
 quor, just sufficient to  fill the hollow of each heap*
 after ihe middle has been scooped, throw in the
 contents from the sides, and press down the whole
 mass with the foot, till it becomes level with the
 rest of the field.  This if not found effectual at first
 must be repealed a  second or a third time, wl*en
 they infallibly will be  destroyed.
  To prevent growing crops from the devastation of
                    vermin.
   The good  effects of elder in preserving plants
 from insects and  flies, are experienced in the fol-
 lowing cases-—
   1.  For preventing  cabbage  and  caulifloAve?
 plants from being devoured and damaged by cater-
 pillars.
   2. For preventing blights, and their effects on
 fruit-trees.
   3. For  preserving corn from yellow  flies and
 other  insects.
   4. For securing turnips from the ravages of ftiea
   The dwarf elder appears to  exhale a much iuon 
HUSBANDRY.
S37
 fetid smell than the common elder, and therefore j
 should be preferred.
      To check the ravages of the turnip fly.
   Suppose that the farmer has no objection to be-
 stow 5 lbs* of seed per acre in order to  secure his
 crop of turnips.    If he sows  broad-cast, let him
 medicate one half of the seed, in the manner to be
 afterwards explained, leaving the other half unpre-
 pared.   The latter may he sown one day, and the
 medicated a day or two after, so as to give a start
 to the other.  The medicated will, in that case, es-
 cape from the attacks of the fly or beetle.   If the
 slug, however, does appear, rolling in the night is
 necessary.   If the farmer drills his turnips, after
 the land is prepared for the drill, 2J lbs. of the un-
 raedicated  seed  should be  sown broad-cast, and a
 day or two afterwards the medicated seed,sown in
 the drills.   In this way a crop may be obtained at
 least  by the  industrious farmer, v. ho does  not
 grudge  a little trouble to secure a good one.   He
 will find that the plants sown broad-cast will give
 ftill employment to the fly, till the  less savoury
 [ilants in the drill pass the moment of danger.   As
 to preparing or medicating  the seed; sulphur is so
 obnoxious  to the  whole  insect tribe, and at  the
 same time so favourable to vegetation, that it seems
 entitled to  a preference.   The turnip  seed  may
 be a little damped, and then mixed with the flour
 of sulphur,  at the rate of  tAvo ounces of sulphur to
 one pound of seed; or let the sfeed be steeped in a
 liquor, formed by boiling  three parts of lime to
 one of sulphur, and 100 parts of water.  This steep
 is much approved of for all such purposes.   It is
 not improbable that the same liquid in which wheat
 is commonly pickled would prove a preservative
 against  the  fly.   It may  be proper to  add,  that
 when the season  is very dry, it has been found a
 most useful practice to moisten the dung well, before
 it is inserted into the drill;  to spread the dung very
 rapidly  in the rows, and instantly to sow, at the rate
 of four  pounds of turnip-seed per acre, upon the
 dung.  The ground  should then  be gathered up
 intobnuts,27 inches wide, by the going and returning
 of the plough.  The seeds are thus put in con-
 tact with the wet dung.   Many perish, but a suffi-
 cient number escape to produce a good  crop.  In
 this case, the sowing any  nnmedicated  seed broad-
 east, may be dispensed with.
             To cultivate san-foin.
  Chalky loams and gravelly soils on a calcareous
 bottom are most proper for this grass.   It is more
 adapted  to hay  than  pasture; and much heavier
 crops of this grass are obtained from thin lands
 than when  clover is sown.  San-foin  is a  hardy
 kind of grass, well worth ti.e attention of cultiva-
 tors in upland districts, where the soil is obdurate
 and shallow, and where clover  and  rye-grass can
 with difficulty be raised to such a height as to stand
 the scythe.  When sown, fresh seed  ought con-
 stantly to be used, as the vegetation  of old  seed
 cannot be depended upon.  I* our bushels may be
 nsed for an acre; and great  care ought to be taken
 to cover the seed well, and to put it deeper into
 tlie ground than the seeds of other grasses.
         To preserve grain from vermin.
  To preserve lye, and secure it from insects and
 rats, nothing more is necessary than not to winnow
 it after it is threshed, and to stow it in the grana-
 ries mixed with the chaff.  In this state it has been
 kept for more than  three  years, without experi-
 encing the  smallest alterations, and even without
 the necessity of  being turned, to preserve it from
 humidity and fermentation.  Rats and mice may
 be prevented from entering the barn, by putting
 some wild  vine or hedge plants upon the  heaps:
 the smell ot this wood is so offensive to these  ani-
mals that they will not approach it.
      2 S
I    To prevent the destruction of corn by insects.
    In laying the floors ofa granary, let Italian pop-
 lars be made use of for the timber.   Many exper-
 iments show that granaries, after laying down this
 flooring, will no  longer be infested with weevils,
 he.
           To destroy slugs upon wheat.
    Collect a number of lean ducks; keep  them all
 day without food, and turn them into the  fields to-
 wards evening; each duck would devour  the slugs
 much faster than a man  could collect them, and
 they Ai-ould soon get very fat for market.
    To prevent the ravages oj mice in corn  stacks.
    The following simple remedy against the depre-
 dations of mice in corn stacks, has lately  been re-
 commended for its undoubted efficacy.   Sprinkle
' from 4 to 6 bushels of dry white sand upon the root
i of the slack before the thatch is put on.  The sand
 is no detriment to the corn, and stacks thus dress-
led haAe remained without  injury.  So very effec-
 tive is the remedy,  that nests of dead young mice
 have been found where the sand has been used,
! but not a live mouse could be seen.
i 'To clear bams and out-houses from mites  and
                     weevils.
    The folloAving method is practised in Germany,
 for granaries infested with mites and  weevils,  i^et
 the walls and rafters,  above and below,  of such
 granaries be covered completely with quick-lime,
 slaked in water, in which trefoil, wormwood, and
 hyssop, have been boiled.  This composition should
 be applied as hot  as possible.   A farmer,  who had
 ihe granaries empty in June last, collected quanti-
 ties of the largest sized ants in sacks, and scatter-
 ed them about the  places infested with  weevils.
 The ants  immediately fell  upon and  devoured
 them all.
             To destroy slugs on land.
    Procure some fresh lime, and after throwing as
 much water upon it  as will reduce it to a powder,
 sow the lime in a hot state upon the laud that is
 overrun with the vermin, at the rate of  about 12
 bushels to the acre.  The lime should be  sown to-
 wards the wind, and falling upon them in a fer-
 mented state^ it will instantly kill them.
            Jjsefulness of the hedgehog.
    This little animal, the object of persecution, not
 only to little boys, but to the farmer, and game-
 keeper, on account of its  supposed mischievous
 propensities, is in fact one which the agricultur-
 ist should endeavour to preserve; as it is the mo.
 effectual  destroyer of snails, worms, and insect*
 and on which it almost entirely subsists. A garden
 in which a hedge-hog is kept, will, in the course
 of two or three nights, be entirely freed from slugs;
 and that enemy to fruit, the millepede, is a favour-
 ite food to him.  The London gardeners are so
 aware of this as often to purchase hedgehogs to put
 in their grounds.  The opinion that this animal
 sucks  cows is too absurd  to require refutation.
 The mouth of the  hedgehog  is too  small  to lay
 hold of the teat of a cow, even  if it could be be-
 lieved by any reflecting person that she would su(-
 fer its sharp bristles to touch  her; and if it ever
 has been found eating poultry  or  game, as has by
 some  been asserted, they  must previously have
 been killed by rats, weasels, or some more fero-
 cious aniAl than the hedgehog, whose habits are
 those of gentleness and timidity, who is not form-
 ed for attack, and whose  sole mode  of defence i«
 rolling itself up in a ball  and opposing its strong
 prickles to the enemy.  This  statement is the re-
 sult of two years' observation on the nature and
 mode of life of the hedgehog; and is given in the
 hope of rescuing a harmless and useful creature
 from the general  abhorrence  in which it  is held,
 and the unmerciful treatment it meets with.
                                    22) 
338                             UMVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
               To destroy weeds.
   To clear the ground of weeds is an operation no
 less necessary in husbandry, than the  disposing it
 to produce vegetables of any kind in plenty.
  .Annual weeds,  or such as spring from seed, and
 die the same year, are most easily destroyed.  For
 this purpose, it will be sufficient to let  them spring
 up till near the time of ripening their seed, and
 then plough them down before it comes to maturi-
 ty.  It is also of service to destroy such weeds as
 grow in  borders, or  neglected corners,  and  fre-
 quently scatter their seeds to a great distance; such
 as the thistle, dandelion, rag-weed, he.; for these
 are sufficient to propagate their species through a
 deal of ground, as their seeds are  carried about
 with  the wind to A'ery considerable distances.  A
 farmer ought also to take care, thatthe.small seeds
 of weeds, separated from corn in winnowing, be
 not sown again upon the ground;  for this certainly
 happens when they are thrown upon a dung hill;
 because, being the natural offspring of the earth,
 Ihey are not easily destroyed.   The best method of
 preventing any mischief from this cause is to burn
 them.
  Perennial weeds are such as are propagated by
 Ihe roots, and last for a number  of years.  They
 cannot be effectually  destroyed,  but by removing
 the roots from the ground, which is often a matter
 of some difficulty.   The only method  that can be
 depended upon in this case, is frequent ploughing,
 to render the ground as tender as  possible;  and
 harrowing Avith a particular kind of harrow, in or-
 der to collect these pernicious roots.   When col-
 lected,  they ought to  be  dried and  burnt, as the
 only effectual method  of insuring their doing no
 farther mischief.
       To destroy broom, furze, and thorns.
  Besides those kinds of weeds,, which are rf an
herbaceous nature,  there are others  which  are
 woody, and grow to a  very considerable size; such
as broom, furze, and thorns. The first may be de-
stroyed by frequent ploughing and harrowing, in
the same manner  as  other perennial  weeds are.
Another method cf destroying broom,  is by  pas-
turing the field where  it grows with sheep.
  The best method of extirpating furze, is to set
fire to it in frosty weather; for frost has the effect
of Avithering and making them burn readily. The
stumps must then be cut over  ivith a hatchet; and
when  the ground is well softened by rain, it  may
be ploughed up, and the roots taken out by a har-
row adapted to that purpose.  If the field is soon
laid down to grass, they will again spring up;  in
this case, pasturing with slieep  is an effectual
remedy.  The thorn,  or bramble, «an  only be ex-
tirpated by ploughing up the ground and collecting
the roots.
         Usefulness of moving weeds.
  lo the month of June weeds are in  their most
succulent state, and in this condition,  after they
have lain a few hours to wither, hungry cattle will
eat greedily  almost  every species.    There  is
scarcely a hedge, border, or a nook, but  what at
that season is valuable; and it certainly must be
good management to embrace the transient oppor-
tunity; for in a few weeks they will  become nui-
sances.
         To banish crows from a Jield.f
  Machinery of various kinds,  such as wind-mills
in miniature, horse-rattles, &c. to be put in motion
by the wind, are often  employed to frighten crows:
but with all of these,  they soon become familiar;
 when  they cease to be of any use  whatever.
  The most effectual  method of banishing them
from a field, as far as  experience goes, is to com-
bine with one or other of the scare-crows in vogue,
the frequent use of the musket.  Nothing strikes
  such terror into these  sagacious animals, as the
  sight of a fowling piece, and the explosion of gun-
  powder,  which they have  known  so often to be
  fatal to their race.   Such is their dread of a fowl-
  ing-piece, that if one is placed upon  a dyke, or
  other eminence, it  will for a long time prevent
  them from alighting on  the adjacent  grounds.
               To cultivate carrots.
    To command crops of this root, manure the land
  with 25 or 30 loads of dung per acre, pretty rotten;
  plough it in, and then cover  the seed  by harroiv-
  ing.  The dung neither injures the taste of the
  carrot, tpakes them grOAV deformed, nor causes the
  canker.   A farmer's object is to produce as great
  a quantity as possible from eAery acre,  which musl
  undoubtedly be accomplished by manure.  In con-
  firmation of this opinion, ihe following statement
  is given:—
     Unmanured carrots, sown March 31, 1808.
                  Ton.            Stone.
I  Roots............9   ...........137 per acre.
  Tops ............4............  24  do.
   Manured after potatoes, sown April 7, 1808.
                  Ton.            Stone.
  Roots............12............113 per acre.
  Tops ............  5............  "I   do.
   The soil in both were exactly the  same; and the
  dung half rotten.  The  preceding crop had in both
  instances been potatoes, and the quality v,f the car-
  rots was  similar in both cases.  An  extensiA'e col-
  lection of such well authenticated experiments ar#
  better calculated lo extend the boundaries of agri-
  cultural knowledge, than all the theories and mere
  reasonings upon them, yet published.
     Mode of cultivating parsnips in Guernsey.
   Although  this root is cultivated in almost all the
  soils of that  island, that is esteemed the best which
  consists of a good light loam, the deeper the bet-
  ter. If the loamy soil is not  deep, the under soil
  at least should  be  opened,  to allow of the  free
  penetration of the roots.
   If the land is not perfectly clear from couch gras*
  and other weeds, it is pared with the paring-plough
  in October, and harrowed to remove the weeds.
  About the middle of February, the land is prepared
  for  sowing  by means of 2  ploughs.    A small
  plough precedes, and opens the furrow to the depth
  of four inches, and  is followed by a large plough
  drawn by  four or six oxen and as many horses,
  which  deepens  the furrow  to ten  or  fourteen
  inches.   As soon as the  clods are capable of being
  broken, the harroAving commences, and is repeater"
  till the soil is pulverized, and reduced nearly to
 the state of garden mould.  The whole of the pro-
 cesses are intended to loosen the soil to as great a
 depth as possible.
   The seed should not be more than a year old, aa
 it is uncertain when of a greater age.  It is sown
 broad-cast, and on a day just so windy as to insure
 its regujar spreading over the surface.  The  seec
 is  then covered by  the barrow.  The  quantit)
 sown is from 2 to 4 quarts.
   As soon as the plants are sufficiently strong, they
 are hand-weeded and thinned, and this operation
 must be repeated at least three times during the
 summer.   The distance  between the  plants is ul-
 timately about nine  inches;  and to save a portion
 of the labour, a harrowing is sometimes given be-
 tween the first and second weedings.
   The first weeding is performed about the middle
 of May, and repeated when necessary, till the be-
 ginning of July.
   The roots are dug up about the middle of Au-
 gust, when they are thought to be most  nutritious
i and to fatten animals better than after  the leavrs
I are decayed.  The quantity dug up at this season
I is not more than is required for two or three days' 
HUSBANDRY.
339
consumption.   It is only in October that the root |
is fully ripe, when it  may be dug up with forks, I
and preserved dry in sheds during the winter; but
it is usually left in the ground in 'Guernsey, where
frost is rare, and taken up as it is wanted.
  The parsnip is considered by the Guernsey far-
mers to be the most nutritious root known, superior
even to the carrot and the potatoe.  When small, it
is given to the  animals  whole, but when large, it
is sliced longitudinally.  Hogs preler this  root to
all others, and  it makes excellent pork.   Horses
are equally  fond  of  the parsnip, although  from
eat'mg it with too much avidity it sometimes sticks*
in the throat. But this may easily  be prevented by
cutting the roots into pieces before they are given.
               To cultivate hemp.
                    'I he soil.
  The soils mo'st suited to the culture of this plant,
are those of the deep, black, putrid vegetable  kind,
■that are low, aniT rather inclined  to moisture, and
those of the deep mellow, loamy, or sandy descrip-
tions.  The quantity of produce is generally  much
greater on the former than on the latter; but it is
 laid to be greatly inferior in quality. It may,  how-
 ever, be grown with success on lands of a less rich
 and fertile kind,  by  premier care and attention in
 their culture and preparation.
              'To prepare the ground.
   In  order to render the grounds proper for the
 reception of the crop, they should be reduced into
 a fine mellow state  of mould,  and be perfectly
 cleared from weeds, by repeated ploughing. When
 it succeeds grain crops, the work  is mostly accom-
 plished by three ploughings, and as many harrow-
 ings: the  first being  given  immediately after  the
 preceding crop is removed, the second early  in the
  spring, and the last, or seed earth, just before the
  seed  is to be put in.  In the last ploughing, well
 rotted manure, in the proportion of 15 or  20, or
  good  compost, in the quantity of 25 or 33  horse
 cartloads, should be turned into the land; as with-
  out this it is seldom that good crops can  be pro-
  duced.  The surface of the ground  being left per-
  fectly flat, and as free from furrows as possible; as
  by these means the moisture is more effectually re-
  tained, and the  growth of the plants more fully
  promoted.
               Quantity of seed, &c.
    It is of much importance  in the cultivation of
  hemp crops, that the seed be  new, and of a good
  quality, which may in some measure be known by
  itsfoeling heavy in the hand, and being ofa  bright
  shining colour.
    The proportion of seed that is most  commonly
  emploved, is from two to three bushels, according
  to the" quality of the  land;  but, as the crops are
  greatly injured by the plants  standing too closely
  together, two bushels, or two bushels and a half,
  may  be a more advantageous quantity.
    As the  hemp  plant is extremely tender  in its
  early growth, care should be taken not to put the
  seed into the ground at so early a period, as that it
  may  be liable to be  injured by the effects  of frost;
  nor to protract the  sowing to so late a season,  as
  that  the  qualitv of  the  produce may be  affected.
  The best season, on the drier sorts of land, in the
  southern districts, is, as soon as possible after the
  frosts are over in April, and,  on  the same descrip-
  tions of soil, in  the more northern ones, towards
  the close of the same  month, or early in the ensu-
  ing one.
                Method of sowing.
    The most general  me'thod of putting  crops of
  this  sort into the soil is the broadcast, tlie  seed
  being dispersed over the surface of the land in as
  even a manner as possible, and afterwards covered
  in by means'of a very light harrowing.   In many
cases, however, especially where the crops are to
stand  for  seed, the drill method in rows, at small
distances,  might be had  recourse to with advan-
tage;  as,  in  this  way, the early growth of the
plants avouIiI  be  more effectoally promoted, and
Ihe land be kept in a more clean and perfect state
of mould, which are circumstances of importance
iu such crops.  In whatever method the seed  is
put in, care must constantly be taken to keep the
birds from it for some time afterwards.
  This sort of crop is frequently cultivated on the
same pieces of ground for a great number of years,
without any other kind of intervening; but, in such
cases, manure must be applied with  almost  every
crop, in pretty large proportions, to prevent the
exhaustion lhat must otherwise take place. It may
be sown after most sorts of grain crops, especially
where the land possesses sufficient fertility, and is
in a proper state of tillage.
                  After culture.
   As hemp, from its tall growth and thick foliage,
soon covers the surface of the land, and prevents
the  rising of weeds, little attention is'necessary
after the seed has been put into the ground, espe-
cially  where the broadcast method  of sowing is
practised; but, when put in by the drill machine, a
hoeing or two may be had recourse  to with advan-
tage in the early growth of the crop.
   In the  culture of this plant, it  is particularly
 necessary that the. same piece of land contains both
male and female, or what is sometimes denominated
 simple hemp.   The latter kind contains the seed.
   When  the crop is ripe, (which is known by  its
 becoming ofa whitish-yellow colour, and a few of
 the leaves beginning to drop from the stems; this
 happens commonly about 13 or 14 weeks from the
 period of its being sown, according as the  season
 may he dry or wet (the first sort being mostly ripe
 some  weeks before the latter), the next operation
 is that of taking  it from  the ground; which is ef-
 fected by pulling it up by the roots,  in small par-
 cels al a time, by the hand, taking care to shake off
 the mould well from them before the handsful are
 laid down.  In some districts,  the  whole crop is
 pulled  together,  without any distinction  being
 made between the different kinds of hemp;  while,
 in others, it is the practice to separate and pull
 them at different times, according to their ripeness.
 The latter is obviously the better practice; as by
 pulling a large proportion of the crop before it is
 in a proper  state of maturity, the quantity of pro-
 duce must not only be considerably lessened,but its
 quality greatly  injured  by  being  rendered  less
 durable.
    After being thus pulled, it is tied up in small par-
 cels, or what are sometimes provincially termed
 baits.
    Where crops of this kind are intended for seed-
 ing, they should be suffered to stand till the seed
 becomes in a perfect state of maturity, which is
 easily known by the appearance of it on inspection.
 The stems are then pulled and bound up, as in  the
 other case,  the  bandies  being  set up in the same
  manner as grain, until the seed becomes so dry and
 firm as.to shed freely.   It is then either immedi-
 ately threshed out upon large  cloths for the pur-
 pose in the field, or taken home to have the opera-
 tion afterwards performed.
             Process of grassing hemp.
    The hemp, as soon as  pulled, is tied up in small
  bundles, frequently at both ends.
    It is then conveyed to pits, or ponds of stagnant
  water, about six or eight feet in  depth, such as
  nave a clayey soil being in general  preferred, and
  deposited in beds,  according  to their size, and
  depth; the  small bundles being  laid  both in a
  straight  direction and crosswise of each other, so 
340
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
as to bind  perfectly together; the  whole beinj;
loaded with timber, or other materials, so  as to
keep the beds of hemp just below the surface of
the water.
  It is not usual to water more than 4 or 5 times
in the same pit, till it  has been filled with Avater.
Where the ponds are not sufficiently large to con-
tain the whole of the  produce at  once, it is the
practice to pull the hemp only as it  can be admit-
ted  into them, it being thought disadvantageous to
leave the hemp upon the ground, after being pull-
ed.   It is left in these pits four, five, or six  days,
or even more, according to the warmth of the sea-
son, and the judgment of the operator, on his ex-
amining whether the hempy material readily sepa-
rates from the reed or stem; and then taken up and
conveyed to a pasture  field, which  is clean and
even, the bundles being loosened, and spread out
thinly, stem by stem, turning it eveiy second or
third day, especially in damp weather, to prevent
its being injured by worms  or other insects.  It
should remain iu this situation for two, three, four,
or more weeks, according to circumstances, and
be then collected together when in a perfectly dry
state, tied up into  large  bundles, and placed in
some secure building,  until an opportunity  is af-
forded  for  breaking it, in order to separate the
hemp.   By this means the process  of grassing is
not  only shortened; but the more expensive ones
of  breaking, scutching, and bleaching the yarn,
rendered less violent and troublesome.
  After the hemp has been removed from the field,
it is in a state to  be broken and swingled, opera-
tions that are mostly performed  by common la-
bourers, by means of machinery for  the purpose,
the  produce being tied up in stones.   The refuse,
collected in the latter processes, is  denominated
sheaves, and is in some districts employed for the
purposes of fuel.   After  having undergone these
different operations, it is ready for the purposes of
the  manufacturer.
               To cultivate flax.
  The soils most suitable  for flax, besides the al-
luvial  kind, are deep friable  loams, and such as
contain a large proportion of vegetable matter in
their composition.   Strong clays  do not  answer
well, nor soils of a gravelly or dry sandy nature.
But whatever be the kind of soil, it ought neither
to be in too poor nor too rich a condition; because,
in the lattei case, the flax is apt to grow too luxu-
riant, and to produce a coarse sort; and, in the for-
mer case, the plant, from growing weakly, affords
only a  small produce.
            To prepare the ground.
  When grass land is intended for flax, it ought to
be broken up as early in the season as possible, so
that the soil may be duly mellowed by the winter
frosts,  and  in good order for being reduced by the
harrows, when the seed process is attempted.  If
flax is  to succeed a corn  crop, the like care is re-
quired to procure  the aid of frost, without which
the surface cannot be rendered fine enough for re-
ceivino- the seed.   Less frost, h3wever, will  do in
the last than in the first case; therefore the grass
land ought always to be earliest ploughed. At seed
time, harrow the land well before the seed is dis-
tributed, then cover the seed to a sufficient depth,
by  giving  a close  double  time of  the harrows.
Water-furrow the land, and remove any stones and
roots  that  may remain on  the  surface,  which
finisneo the seed process.
               Quantity of seed.
  When a crop of seed is intended to  be taken,
thin sowing is  preferable, in order that the plants
may have room to fork or spread out their leaves,
and to obtain air for the blossoming and filling sea-
sons.  But it is a mistake to sow thin, when flax
is intended to be taken; for the crop then becomes
coarse,  and often  unproductive.  From  eight W
ten pecks per acre is a proper quantity in the last
case; but Avhen seed is the object,  six  pecks will
do very well.
           To save the flax and seed.
  Flax should be pulled when the lower part of the
plant begins to turn yelloiv, and when, on opening
the pods, the most forward of the seeds are found
in a soft state, and the middle of the seeds is green;
while the  seed is quite soft, the flax  should be.
spread on the ground, in bundles about as_niuch as
a woman can grasp with both hands, and it should
remain so, till the upper part is dry: in fine weather
it will be dry in 24 or 48 hours; the bundles should
be  then  made up, Avith the dry part inside, and
then set up  in  stocks, of ten bundles each, and
stand on the ground till the whole is dry, pods and
all; the seed will then be ripe, and  the llax in the
best state;  it may then  be stacked, housed, or
worked; great care should  be taken to keep the
root-ends even.
             Method of watering.
  When flax is  pulled, it ought to be immediately
put into the Avater, so that it  may part with the
rind or  shaAv,  and be fi for the manufacturer.
Standing pools, for many reasons, are most proper
for the purpose, occasioning the flax to have a bet-
ter  colour,  to be  sooner ready for the  grass, .ini"i
even to  be of superior  quality in every  respect.
When  put into the water, it is tied  up in beets, or
small sheaves; the smaller the better, because it is
then most equally watered.  These sheaves ought
to be built in the pool, in a reclining  upright pos-
ture, so that  the weight  placed above  may  keep
the whole firm down.   In warm weather, ten days
of the watering  process is sufficient; but it is pro-
per to examine the pools regularly after the seventh
day, lest the flax should putrify or rot, which some-
times happens  in  very warm weather.  Twelve
days Avill answer in any sort of-weather; though il
may be remarked, that it is better  to give rather
toe  little of the  water, than too much,  as any de-
ficiency may  be easily made  up, by suffering it to
lie longer on  the grass, whereas an excess of water
admits of no remedy.  After lying on the  grass
for  a due time, till any defect of the watering pro-
cess is  rectified,  the  flax is  taken up, tied  when
dry in large sheaves, and carried to the mill  to be
switched and prepared for the hackle.
Mr Lee's invention for dressing flax.—Instruc-
         tions for using the machinery.
  The process is divided into two parts; the Gist
part is  intended for the farmer, or flax-grower, to
bring the flax into a fit state for general or common
purposes.   This is performed by three  machines;
one for thrashing  out the seed,  one  for breaking
and separating  the wood from the fibre,  and one
for  further separating the broken wood and mattee
from the fibre.  In some cases, the farmers  will,
perhaps, thrash out the seed in their own mill, and.
therefore, in such cases, the first  machine will be,
of course, unnecessary.
  The second part of'the process is  intended for
the manufacturer to bring the flax into  a state for
the very finest  purpcies, such as  lace, cambric,
damask, and very fine linen.   This second part is
performed by the refining machine only.
            The thrashing mat Aine.
  Take the flax in small bundles, as it comes from
the field or stack, and holding it in the  left  hand,
put the  seed end between the thrashing machine,
and the bed  or block, against which the machine
is to strike; then take the handle of the machine
in the right hand, and move the machine backward
and forward, to strike on the flax, until the seed
is all thrashed out. 
HUSBANDRY
5*11
             The breaking machine.
   Take the flax in small handsful in the left hand,
 spread it  flat  between the third and little finger,
 with the seed end downwards, and  the root-end
 above, as near the  hand as possible; then put  it
 between the beater of the  breaking machine, and
 beat it gently till the thr- e  or  four inches, which
 have been under the operation of the machine, ap-
 ]>ear to be soft; then remove ihe flax a little higher
 in the  hand, so as to let the soft part of the flax
 rest ujion the little finger, and continue to  beat  it
 till all is soft, and the wood is separated from the
 fire, keeping the left hand close to the block, and
 the flax as flat upon the block  as possible.  The
 other end of the flax is then to be turned; and the
 end which has  been beaten is to be wrapped round
 the  little  finger,  the  root-end flat, and beaten in
 the  machine till the Avood  is separated, exactly in
 tlie same  way as the other  end  was beaten.
             The cleansing machine.
   Is to be used in the same way,  in all respects, as
 ihe breaking machine; first cleansing one end of
 the flax, and then  turning the Other, keeping the
 flax all the while flat in the hand.
                   The hackle.
   A common hackle will be found  useful,  in this
 stage, for opening the ends; and  may be placed,
 for greater convenience, at  the side of the breaking
 and cleansing machine.
   This concludes the first process of the machinery
 i'.tended for the farmer, or flax-grower.  The se-
 cond, or manufacturer's process requires
             The  refliung machine.
   Take a small piece of flax, as it comes from the
 breaking or cleansing  machine; pass the seed end
 through the fluted  rollers of the refining machine,
 and  bring it round, laying  it flat  on the root-end
 of the flax, forming it into  a skein.  A feAV fibres
 of the end brought round, and looped in the flax
 on which it is laid, will keep the  skein together.
 ft must be kept flat and  even on the machine,
 which may continue to go  round, and work the
 flax, till it is brought to any degree of fineness lhat
 may be required, and this  will not require more
 than from tAvo to six minutes.
             Washing or whitening.
   The flax,  when  prepared by  these  machines,
 without having  been ivater-steeped, or dew-rotted,
 may be washed in  small quantities at a time.either
 in ivater only, or with soap and  water, without any
 other mixture, and brought by these simple means
 to the purest white.  It is to  be  wrung several
 times in water till the Avater becomes  no  longer
 coloured frcm the  matter;  and  care is to be taken
 that the flax is laid flat like tape, and then spread
 upon the grass;  but it is recommended that the
 flax  should be spun in the  yellow state, and  then
 washed in warm  water and soap, or boiled,  Avith
 care, in water  and soap, from 10 to 15 minutes,
 which, when dried, will be perfectly white.  If
 the Aveather should be favourable, it would be well
 to have it dried on the grass.
   As to the labour  required,  the machines are
 easily wrought by  women or girls, and without any
 assistance from men.
                  The produce.
   As to the produce, of different  degrees of fine-
 ness, from a given weight of the raw material, we
 subjoin the following statement.
   112 lbs. of flax  from the  stack,  after the  seed
 was  thrashed out, produced 30 lbs.  in the state
 No.  1; refined to No. 3, it produced 20 lbs. of flax
and  3 lbs.  of common tow; 20 lbs. of No. 3  pro-
duced 14$ lbs. of No. 4   The  loss in  weight is
caused by the discharge af  matter; there is no loss
 al" fibre.
  An average crop will produce about two tons to
  the acie, after the seed is thrashed out.  This will
  produce  one-fourth fibre, making 10 cwt to the
  acre No. 1.
         'To cultivate hops.—The soil, &c.
    The hop is planted on various soils, and chiefly
  in valleys.  Hops are generally of the best quality
  from  strong clay land.  The  crop,  however, is
  tu^re  very precarious.  Those on peat are much
  more  productive, but  are  liable to be affected by
  the mould in  some seasons, which reduces their
  value  considerably.  The best plantations  are on a
  deep loamy soil, where the produce of the latter,
  and the quality of the  former, are sometimes ob-
  tained.   Those which are grown  on sandy and
  gravelly lands  are seldom  remarkable for either
  great produce, or superior quality.
    The plant is extremely liable to disasters, from
  its first putting up in the" spring, until the time of
  picking the crop, which is iu  September.  Snails
  or slugs,  ants and flies, are formidable enemies in
  the  first  instance.   Frosts  are  inimical to its
  growth, and the vines are frequently blighted, even
  after they have reached the lop of the poles. Small
  green  flies, and other insects, which  make their
  appearance in the months of May and June, when
  the  wind is about north-east, often1 greatly injure
  them;  and they are subject to take damage by  ;igh
  winds from the  south-west.  The best situation
  for  a  plantation, therefore, is a southern  aspect,
  well shaded on three sides, either by hills or plant-
  ing, Avhich is supposed to  be the  chief protection
  that can be given them.
                  To plant hops.
    In the winter time provide the soil  and  manure
  for the hop-ground against the following  spring.
  If the  dung be rotten, mix it with two or three
  parts of common earth, and let it incorporate to
  gether, till there is occasion to make  use  of it in
  making the hop-hills; bul if it be new dung,  then
  let be  mixed as before  till the spring in the  next
  year, for new dung is very injurious to hops. Hops
  require to be planted in a situation so open that the
  air may freely pass round  and betAVeen them,  to
  dry up and dissipate the moisture, which often de-
  stroys  the middles of large plantations, while the
  outsides remain unhurt.
    The hills should be 8 or 9 feet asunder.  If the
  ground be intended to be ploughed with horses be-
  tween  the hills, it Avill be  best to plant them  in
  squares, chequerwise: but if the ground is so smal.
  that il may be ifone with the breast-plough, or
 I spade, the holes should be ranged in a quincunx
 j form.   Which way soever  is made use of,  a stake
 i should be stuck down at all the places where the
 i hills are to be made.
 i                'J o £hoose hops.
 i   Be very particular in the choice of the plants as
 j to kind; for if  the nop-garden  be  planted with a
 i mixture of several sorts of hops, that ripen  at
  several times, it will cause much trouble, and great
  detriment.
    The two best sorts are the white, and the grey
 j binu; the latter is a large square hop, more hardy,
 ; bears .more abundantly, but ripens later than the
  former.   There is another  sort of the white bind,
  which  ripens a week or ten days before the com-
 I mon; but this is tenderer, and a less plentiful bear-
 | er; though it has this advantage, that it comes first
  to market.  If there be a  sort of hop you value,
  and  would wish to increase, the superfluous ,binds
  may be laid down when the hops are tied, cutting
  off the tops, and burying them in the hill; or when
  the hops are dressed all die cuttings maybe saved;
  for almost every part will grow, and become a
  good set the next spring.
               Seasons of planting.
il  The Kenlish planters approve the months of Oc-
                                   2  D 2 
Z1Z                         UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
tober and March.  The most usual time of pro-
curing the cuttings is in March, when Ihe hops are
cut and  dressed.   As to the manner of planting
the sets, there should be five good sets planted in
every hill, one in the middle, and the rest  round
about, sloping.   Let them be pressed close with
the hcnd, and covered with fine earth; a stick should
be placed on each side of the hill to  secure it.
           To form a new plantation.
  The best  method is, to have cuttings from ap-
proved stock, planted out the year before they are
wanted, in the  hop-ground;  as  the  use of plants
instead of cuttings, not only  gains a year, but are
i.jore certain to nourish.  A small piece of moist
'and  is sufficient to raise  plants for many acres,
and at little  expense.   If the ground  be iii grass,
pare  and  dig in the pods;  work the laud  with a
spade, and set it out into ridges of 3$ yards Vide,
and two yards between each; having a "strip of grass,
(called a pillar,) next  every ridge,  and an open
drain between  every  two pillars, the  depth  of
which must  vary according to the soil, some being
less  than  one fool, and others nearly four feet in
depth.  Three  rows of plants,  or,  as they are
termed, hills, are made upon each ridge,  Avhich
should intersect each other; they are generally 2
yarJs distant in the rows, so that about 1300 are
the usual number of hills in  a statute acre.  Small
sticks are proper to tie the binds up to, the first
year, then small poles for a year or  two; the size
of which should  be gradually increased.  Some
set 2 poles to every hill, which is proper for ground
producing luxuriant binds; but on clay land three
poles are set in a  triangular form  to tlie hills on
the two outside rows of e;.ch ridge, and only two
in the middle row.  Many additional poles, longer
than  ihe rest,  called catch-poles, are also set to
take the binds as they run beyond the lesser poles.
Where the bind is weak, three heads are commonly
trained up each pole;  though two  are better, if
strong.   If the ground intended for a neAv planta-
tion is not clean from couch-grass, a complete fal-
low  is essential, whether it is grass or slubble; and
a crop of turnips may  he taken to  advantage, if
the  land  is  proper for their growth, and can be
made clean, as  hops are planted in March.
             To take up hop-ground.
   The following are termed the annual orders:—
Bigging the ground completely over;  hoeing the
earth from  the hills, and cutting off the slock  a
little above  the root, which are called pickling aud
cutting;  poling, which is carrying tlie poles from
the stacks, and setting  ihem down to the hill's with
a round implement, shod with iron, and called  a
poy, having a crutch at  the top, and  a peg through
the middle to tread upon; tying the binds round
the poles with  rushes,  and  pulling  up the super-
fluous binds; hoeing the ground all over with a hoe
of large dimensions; wheeling and  laying manure
upon every  hill; co\eringihe manure with the soil,
which is done by scraping the ground over with  a
hoe, and is  called hilling; and  stacking, which is
carrying and setting up the poles  into heaps or
stacks, after the crop has been taken.
                 Extra-works.
   As the preceding are termed  the ordinary, so
the  following are called the extra-works, as  not
being included in the yearly bargain with the men  I
 by Xlie  generality of planters, and  somo of thein  i
are  done only by  the  very  best managers.  On
clayey ground, either the earth  ought to be oared
 off the hills, and a covering of good manure  ap-
 plied to them previous to digging, which will re-
 quire from  12 to 15 tons per acre;  or from 20 to
 25 tons of manure, or  a greater quantity of fresh
 earth (when the ground wants  condition) should
be wheeled and spread all over the ridges.  It is
not improper,  in  some  cases, to  pursue these
methods alternately; but on boggy  and veiy rich
ground, the larth only can be applied with advan-
tage.   The drains should be scoured out yearly on
very wet ground; and what is thrown out is always
intermixed with the soil in digging; on  drier soils
this  is done every second or  third year, and  on
very dry land it is scarcely necessary  to do it at
all.  Recruiting the stock by planting, where any
hills have failed, is done at little cost in  well-man-
aged plantations, as there arc seldom many at once
in those.  If there  is any coueh-grass, it should be
digged  out with three-pronged forks  in Marcn,
and carried off the ground.   The renewal of poles
requires from one to two hundred  per acre eA-ery-
year.   If, when i.ie  binds  first appear, they are
eaten by slugs,  a handful of malt  culm,  or saw
dust, is sometimes laid round each hill, which they
cannot travel over; and should flies or ants attack
ihem, soot is  the best preventive.   The carrying
in and setting catch-poles varies much as to num-
ber, as some  set  fewer than one  hundred, and
others five or six hundred per aere. Moving the
drains and pillars is gent-rally done once, but twice
moving is better, (whether the grass be made into
fodder, or  is suffered  to fill  into the  drains  foi
manure,) as then  no seeds scatter on the ground.
Extra-hie once before the hilling, and  once after.
After high winds, many poles are  broken  doAvn,
which should be set up again soon.
         Manure proper for hop-culture.
   As to the manure most proper for the hop-cul-
ture, good stable dung is much used, and is pre-
ferred to the manure made by beasts, as the lattei
encourages ants on strong ground.   Woollen rags
are the  best  for forcing a luxuriant bind, and if
used  Aiith  judgment,  are  excellent  for  clayey
ground; but they are apt to make the hops small,
if too many are used.   Malt culm,  and dove ma-
nure are excellent, and one complete dressing with
lime is very serviceable for strong ground.
                 'To pick hops.
   When the crop is ripe, a proper number of
pickers are procured, for whom are provided light
wooden frames, called binges; they are clothed with
hop-bagging, into  which the hops  are picked off
the  p.ties by women and  children, having them
brought by men, who take them up by cutting the
binds about a foot above  the ground, and drawing
up the poles  by an  instrument called  a  dragon.
Each binge ^as from 4 to 6 pickers, and a man at-
tends to one or two binges, according to the crop;
he strips the binds from the poles as niey are pick-
ed, and lays them in heaps ready  fa- stocking; he
also carries the hops to  ihe kilns, if near; or to a
cart, as they are measured from  the binge.  The
number of binges employed  vary  with the crop
and kiln-room; about one to an acre is  usual.  The
hops are taken out of  the binges Avith a basket
 which holds 6 Winchester pecks.
                Another mi.hod.
   The most convenient way of  picking  them  is
 into  a long  square  frame of wood, with a cloth
 hanging on lenter-hyoks within it, to receive the
 hops us they are picked.
   They must be picked veiy clean, free from leaves
 aud stalks;  and it, there shall be occasion, 2 or 3
 limes in a day, the frame must be  emptied into a
 hop  bag made of coarse linen cloth, and  carried
 immediately to the oast  or  kiln,  in  order to be
 dried: for if they should be too  long  in the bag,
 they will be apt to heat and be discoloured.  If the
 weather be  hot, there  should no  more  poles be
 drawn than cm be picked in an  hour, and they
 should be gathered in fair weather, if it  can be, 
HUSBANDRY.
343
and when the hops are dry; this will save some ex-
pense in  firing,  and preserve their colour better
when they are dried.
                 To dry hops.
  The best method of drying hops is Avith  char-
coal on an oast or kiln, covered with hair-cloth of
the same form and fashion lhat is used for drying
malt.  The kiln ought to be square, and may be of
10, 12, 14, or 16 feet over at the top,  where the
hops are laid, as the plantation  requires, and the
room will alloAv.  There ought to be a due pro-
portion between the heigh: and breadth of the kiln,
and the  beguels  of the steddle where the fire is
kept, viz. if the kiln be 12 feet square on the top,
it  ought  to be 9  feet high from the fire, and the
steddle ought to be 6  feet and a half square, and so
proportionable in  other dimensions.
  The hops must be spread even upon the oast, a
foot thick or more,  if the depth of the curb will
allow it;  but care is to be taken not to overload the
oast if the hops are green or  Avet.  The oast ought
to be first warmed with afire before  the hops are
laid on, and then an even steady fire  must be kept
under them; it must not be too fierce  at first, lest it
scorch  them; nor must it be suffered to sink or
slacken, but rather be increased, till  the  hops are
nearly dried, lest the moisture or sweat which the
fire.has raised, fall back or discolour them.
  Wlien they have lain about nine hours they must
be turned, and in 2 or 3 hours more they may be
taken off.  It may be known when  they are well
dried, by the brittleness of the stalks, and the easy
falling off of the hop-leaves.
                 To bag hops.
  As soon as the hops are taken off the  kiln, lay
them in a room for three weeks or a month to cool,
give, and toughen; for if they are bagged  immedi-
ately they will powder, but if they lie awhile, (and
the longer they lie the better, provided they are co-
vered close with blankets to secure them from the
air),  they may be  bagged with more  safety, as not
being liable  to be broken to powder in treading;
and this Avill make them bear treading the better,
and the harder they are trodden the better they
will keep.
                 To dress hops.
  When the ground is dug in January or February,
the earth about the  hills, and  very near  them,
ought to be taken aAvay with  the spade.  About the
end of February, if the hops were planted the
spring  before,  or if the  ground  be weak,  they
ought to be dressed  in dry  weather;  but if the
ground be strong aud in perfection, the middle of
March will be a good time; and if it  is apt to pro-
duce over-rank binds, the beginning of April may
be soon  enough.   Then  having  with  an   iron
picker cleared away all the earth out  of the hill, so
as to clear the stock to the principal roots, with a
sharp knife, cut off all the shoots which greAv with
tfie binds the last  year;  and also  all tlie young
suckers,  that none may be left to run in the alley,
and weaken the hill.  It will be proper to cut one
part of the stock lower than the other, and also to
cut that part low that was left highest the preceding
year.  In  dressing those hops that have been planted
the year  before, cut off both the dead tops and the
young  suckers which have   sprung  up from the
sets, and  also covar  the stocks with fine earth, a
f.nger's length in  thickness.
                 'J'o pole hops.
  About the middle of April the hops are  to bo
poled; when the  shoots begin to sprout  up, the
poles must be set to the hills deep in the ground,
with a square iron picker or crow, that they may
the better endure the wind;  three poles are suffi-
cient for  one hill.  These should be placed as near
the hill as possible, with their bending tops turned
, outwards from the hill, to prevent the binds from
 entangling; and a space between two poles ought to
 be left open to the south, to admit the sunbeams.
                   To tie hops.
   The buds that do not claso of themselves to the
] nearest pole when they are grown to three or four
 feet high,  must be guided to it by the hand, turn-
I ing them to the sun, whose course  they will always
 follow.  They must be bound Avith withered rushes,
 but not so close as to hinder them from climbing
 up the pole.  This continue to do  till all the poles
 are furnished with binds, of  which two  or three
[ are enough for a pole; and all the  sprouts  and
j binds  that there are  no occasion for, are to be
| plucked up; but if the ground is young, then none
j of these useless binds  should be  plucked up, but
j should  be wrapped up together in the middle of
! the hill.
                 To gather hops.
   About the beginning of July, hops begin to blow,
: and will be ready for  gathering  about Bartholo-
 mew-tide.   A judgment may  be made  of their
 ripeness by their strong scent, their hardness, and
 the brownish colour of their seed.   When by these
 tokens they appear to be ripe  they must be picked
j wilh all the  expedition  possible; for if at this time
 a storm of wind should come,  it  Avould  do them
 great damage, by breaking the branches, and bruis-
 ing and discolouring the hops; and it is very well
 known that  hops, being picked  green and bright,
 will sell for a third more than those  which are
 discoloured.
           To cultivate the madder plant.
   The  ground  is ploughed deep  in  autumn, and
 again in March; and then laid up  in ridges, eight-
 een inches asunder, and about a foot high. About
 the beginning of April the ground  is opened where
 the old roots are planted, and the side shoots taken
 off, which are transplanted  immediately upon the
 new ridges, at about a foot distance, where they re-
 main two  seasons; at Michaelmas, when  the tops
 of the plants are decayed, the roots are taken up.
 This method of planting in ridges, is only neces-
 sary in Avet land.  If all the horizontal  roots are
 destroyed from time to time, it will cause the large
 doAvnright roots to be much bigger, in  which the
 goodness of this plant  chiefly consists.   After the
 madder roots,  the only parts of the plant used by
 dyers, are taken up, they are  kiln-dried, and then
 reduced to  powder by a mill.  Previously to the
 grinding they are carefully assorted.
   The  fine quality of  madder is distinguished by
 its  being  of a  bright, lively, light  colour, well
 ground, without acy coarse parts proceeding from
 the peelings.   Fresh is always more valuable than
 old  madder.  It should be kept close to prevent
 the access of air, as its virtue evaporates when ex-
 posed.
   Madder  is  principally cultivated  in  Holland,
 Germany, and France, especially the former place,
 where  it grows in greater abundance than in any
 oilier part of the world.  The turkey madder root
 is principally cultivated about Smyrna.  This plant
 may be propagated either by offsets or  seeds.   On
 a light thin  soil the culture cannot be carried onto
 any profit: that soil in which the  piant delights is
 a rich sandy loam, three feet  or more in depth.
   The ground being first made smooth, is divided
 into b-ds four feet wide, with alternate alleys, half
 as broad again as the beds.  In each alley  is a shal-
 low channel for irrigating the whole field, he. that
 that part of the alley that is njt otherwise engaged
 may be sown with legumes.   The madder-seed is
 sown broadcast in the proportion  of from 25 to 30
 lbs. per acre about the end  of April.    Iu a fort-
 night  or three weeks  the young plants  begin to
 appear, and from tliis time to the month of Sep- 
344
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 lember, care must be taken to keep the ground
 well watered and free from weeds.  If the plants
 are examined in  autumn they will be found to be
 surrounded wilh small yellow offsets at the depth
 of two inches, and early in September, the  earth
 from the alleys is to be dug out and laid over ihe
 plants of madder to the height of two  or  three
 feet; wilh this the first year's operation finishes.
   The second year's work begins in May, with
 giving the beds a thorough weeding; and care must
 be taken to supply them  with plenty  of'Aiater dur-
 ing summer,   in September, the first crop of seed
 will be ripe, at which time, the stems of fh; plants
 uay be  mown down, and the  roots covered  a few
 inches with earth, taken as before out of tlie alleys.
   The weeding should take place as early as possi-
 ble in the spring of the  third year; and the crop,
 instead of being left  for seeds, may  be cut  three
 times during summer for green fodder, all kinds of
 cattle  being remarkably fond of it.   In October,
 the roots are taken up, the offsets  are carefully
 separated, and immediately used  to form a new
 plantation; and the roots,  after being dried, are sold
 either without further preparation, or ground to a
 eoarse powder, and sprinkled Avith  an alkaline ley.
 The  roots lose four-fifths of their weight in dry-
 ing, and the produce of an acre is about 2000 lbs.
 of dry saleable madder.
                 Use of madder.
   The  principal use of  madder  is in dying.   It
 gives out its colour both to water and rectified spi-
 rit; the  watery tincture is of a dark dull red;  the
 spirituous of a deep bright one.  It  imparts to
 woollen  cloth, prepared with alum  and tartar, a
 very durable, though not a very beautiful red dye.
 As it is the  cheapest of  all  red drugs, that give a
 durable colour,  it is  the principal one commonly
 made  use of for ordinary st'iffs.  Sometimes its
 dye is heightened by the  addition  of  Brazil-wood,
 and sometimes it is employed in conjunction Avith
 the dearer reds, as cochineal, for demi-scarlets,
 and demi-crimsons.  Madder-root is  sometimes
 employed in  medicine as an emmenagogue. When
 the madder is given to animals with  their food, it
 produces a curious phenomenon, namely, tinging
 their bones with red.  The bones of young pigeons
 v-ili be thus tinged ofa rose-colour in twenty-four
 hours, and ofa deep scarlet in three days; but the
 bones of adult animals will be a fortnight in  ac-
 quiring a rose-colour.
          Best method of hay-making.
   Instead of allowing the hay to  lie, as usual in
 in jst places, for some days in the  swathe, after it
 is cut, never  cut hay but when the grass  is quite
 dry; and then  make the gatherers  follow  close
 upon the cutters; put it up immediately into small
 cocks about three feet high each, and  of as small a
 diameter as they can be made to  stand with;  al-
 ways giv;.ng each of them a slight  kind of thatch-
 ing, by drawing a few handsful of the  hay from the
 bottom of the cock all round, and laying it lightly
Upon the top, with one of the ends hanging down-
 wards.  This is done with the utmost ease and ex-
pedition; and when once  in that state, the hay is,
in a great measure, out of danger; for  unless a "vio-
lent wind shoulJ arise immediately after the cocks
are put up,nothing else can hurt the  hay; as no rain,
however violent, can penetrate  into these cocks
but for a very little way; .and if they are dry put
up, they never sit  together so closely as to  heat;
although they acqu're, in  a day or two, such a de-
gree of firmness, as to be in no danger of being
overturned by wind after that time, unless it blows
 a hurricane.
  In these cocks alloAv the hay to remain until, upon
 inspection, the farmer judges it will keep in pretty
 large tramp  cocks (which is  usually iu a week or
| two according as the weather  is more or less fa-
 vourable), when two men, each with a long pronged
 pitchfork, lift up one of these small cocks between
 them with  the greatest ease, and  carry them one
 after another, to the place where the tramp-cock is
 to be built:  and in this manner proceed over the
' field, tilt the whole is finished.
|        Mode of hay-making in Yorkshire.
    Rippling clover  or seeds, has  been ptactised
' about forty years, inthe neighbourhood of Borough-
! bridge.   Il is found to answer  much better than
 the method of making ii.to cocks.
    The clover is cut, and after it has lain four or
 five days in the swathe, till it is sufficiently dry,
 the hay-maker, with a rake, rolls  up a  sufficient
 quantity to form a  ripple, which is  set up in the
: form of a cone. Taking a few of the longest straws,
 he twists them round the top, which forms the
j point of the cone, keeps the  ripple  compact, and
| shoots off' the rain.  In taking up the clover from
. the swathe, and forming the ripple, il is necessary
 to keep  the  upper or dry part inwards: loy that
 means it is much sooner dry, and  in a fit state for
 the stack.   It is generally necessary for clover to re-
 main 5 or 6 days in the ripple before it is put into
 the stack;  but that  depends on the state  of the
I weather.   There is no occasion to untie the rip-
I pies.   The method of rippling is not so expensive
I as  cocking; it is much superior both in wet and
 dry seasons—not so liable to be  injured by the
 wet—much sooner dry, and, of course, ofa better
 quality, and   more nourishing for  cattle.   Each
 ripple will weigh, when dry, about 4 or 5 lbs. they
 should  not be made  too large.  Except  where
 meadow grass is veiy long it would not  be practi-
 cable to ripple it, and is very rarely done in York
 shire.  The practice of rippling is simple; attended
 with litlle trouble or expense; and wheneA'er tried,
 will recommend itself.
           To manage cut grass for hay.
    Grass, when cut  for hay, ought to be quickly
 raked, in order that its powers may neither be ex-
 hausted by the sun, nor dissipated by the air.  In
 the first sta.;'*, small cocks are preferable, and on
 after days,  these may be gathered  into laige ones
 or hand ricks, by which method, the hay is equal-
I ly made, and properly sweetened.  After standing
j 8 or 10 days in these ricks, according to the nature
I of the weather, hay may be carted home, and built
| in stacks of sufficient size for standing through the
: winter months.
|        Importance of straw in husbandry.
j   This is a subject that has not. hitherto been so
 much attended to as its importance deserves.
   Though  many useful observations  on straw are
[ occasionally  introduced in agricultural writings,
; and though its value, as the basis of  future crops,
! is fully admitted  by every intelligent farmer, yet
 the subject has seldom been professedly treated'of
| at any length: we  shall endeavour, therefore, to
 compress the  most important particulars connected
\ with it,  under the following heads:—
|   1. The weight of straw produced on an average
I of the different crops of grain and  pulse, per stat-
| ute acre.
;   2. The value of  the  different kinds of  straw,
 and
i   3. The various uses to which each kind of straw
 is applicable.
   Weight of straw produced by the different crops.
   The quantity of straw per acre, differs according
i to a variety of circumstances; as,  1.  The species ot
| grain, whether wheat, barley, oats, fkc.; 2. The dif-
; lerei*. kinds of the same grain; 3. The season (for
 in dry seasons the quantity is less than  in niout);
 4. The soil, for in fertile soils the straw is  more
i abundant than in poor ones; 5. The  season  when 
HUSBANDRY.
34b
the se.-d is sown, for spring sown  wheat has less
6traw than the  winter sown; and, 6. The manner
in which the straw is  cut, for an inch or two at the
root-end of the straw makes a great addition to the
dunghill.
  From a statement by Mr Young, it would appear,
that the average produce, in straw, of all the dif-
ferent crops, stubble included, may be calculated al
1 ton, 7 cwt. per English acre; but that is rejecting
Ihe weaker soils.
   It is calculated by  Mr  Brown, of Markle, that
on an average  of years, the produce of straw in
good land, and under tolerable management, will
be nearly in the following proportion, per English
acre:
		Stones
Wheat,		160
Beans and	peas,	130
Oats,		130
Barley,		100
                        Total 520
  Or, at an average of these crops, 130 stone per
acre, 22 lbs. avoirdupois, per stone; in all 2860 lbs.
or 1 ton, 5 cwt. 2 quarters and 4 lbs.
  It may be safely estimated, that on an average of
years, well cultivated and fertile  soils, when the
crop is carefully cut down, will annually produce,
on the average of the crops above  mentioned, and
taking the average of the kingdom, 1 ton, 5 cwt.
per English acre.
      Value of the different kinds of straw.
  The intrinsic value of straw  must vary materi-
ally, according to its leading properties, thequan-
rity of manure into which it may be converted  by
littering, or its fitness to be employed as thutch,
these being the chief uses to which  it is applica-
ble; but, in general, its price depends on its vicinity
to large towns.  It i.s  only in  situations  where
foreign  manure  can be procured  easily, and at a
cheaper rate than by converting the straw raised
upon the farm into dung, that the  sale of straw is
ever permitted.  StraAv is generally dearer in Lon-
don, and its neighbourhood, than in any other part
of the  kingdom.  It is sold there  by the  load,
which  consists of 36 trusses, of 36 lbs. each, or
1296 lbs. in all.  Two  loads of wheat-straw per
acre are reckoned a tolerable crop.
  As  straw is  rarely permitted to be sold, being
usually employed in maintaining winter stock, the
real value of the article, to the farmer, is but in-
considerable,  depecding  upon the  quantity and
quality  of the dung it  produces.   So little is it
thought necessary accurately to ascertain the value
of straAV, that in several cases it has been given by
the outgoing to the incoming tenant, as an equiva-
lent for the expense of harvesting, thrashing, and
marketing the  last crop.   It is often thought in-
sufficient to'cover eA-en that expense, and a  farther
abatement is allowed on the price  of the grain.
  Various purposes to which straw is applicable.
  The subject of feeding with straw will be better
understood by considering the specific properties
of the different kinds of straw employed in  feed-
ing stock, and the rules that ought to be observed
when stock are fed with that material.
                 Wheal straw.
  This kind of straw, from  its strength, is con-
sidered  to be peculiarly calculated both for litter
and thrashing; and, indeed, Avherever the practice
of cutting straw into chaff, for mixing with corn
for horses, prevails, wheat straw  is preferred.
When given to cattle or horses, it is sometimes cut
into chaff,  and either given raw in that  state, or,
v hat is greatly preferred,  steamed with other food,
in particular wilh potatoes.
  In order to improve wheat straw as fodder, it is
      2 T
  the practice, in some parts of England, to cut the
  grain rather greener than in  Scotland, which pre-
  serves more of the natural juices, and consequently
  makes the fodder better.  Some of the best farmers
  were accustomed to cut wheat much  earlier than
  common  in their  respective districts.   One of
  these was a miller in Norfolk, avIio occupied a large
  farm, Avhere he always cut his wheat several days
  before am  one  else thought of  beginning,  well
  knowing the good consequences in the value  \f the
  grain.  It must also be less apt to be injured by
  shaking or harvesting.
                   Oat straw.
   Among the culmiferous grains,  the straw of the
  oat is considered to be the best fodder, when  given
  uncut.  It is well known, indeed,  that oat straw,
  during the  winter  season, is almost universally
  given  instead  of hay,  in all the  best cultivated
  counties of Scotland, during the  winter months,
  though  that of peas and beans is certainly pre-
  ferred where both are grown.
   In some districts farmers cut oats in the  straw
  into a species of  fodder, which  is  called  "cut
  meat."  This  is given  not only to horses, but to
  cattle, especially fattening cattle.   It is thought to
  give not only fatness but a fineness of skin  to all
  sorts of stock.
                   Bean straw.
   If well  harvested, this straw forms a very hearty
  and  nutritious kind of food for cattle in the winter
  season.  Both oxen and horses, Avhen duly supplied
  with oats, in proportion to the work they have to
  execute, thrive well on it; and the reduced parts,
  or Avhat is  termed in England the  coving-chaff,
  is found valuable, as a manger food, for the labour-
  ing teams; Avhen blended Avith other substances, it
  is probable  that, in particular cases, the  stems
  might be  cut into chaff with  advantage; but when
  made use  of in these methods, it should be used as
  fresh as possible after being thrashed.   A mixture
  of bean straw, (which by itself is rather dry,) and
  of peas-haum, which  is SAveet and  nourishing,
  wakes excellent fodder.
   But though this straAV, more  especially when
  mixed wilh  peas-haum,  is of  great value as fodder
  to the working stock of the farm, it does not suit
  well with  riding-horses, as it is apt  to hurt their
  wind.  In some horses,  both bean-straw and peas-
  haum are apt  to occasion colic pains, or the dis-
  ease which is provincially called botts, probably oc-
  casioned by flatulency.    For this disease,  about
  half an ounce, or a table-spoonful of laudanum, is
  found to be a good remedy.
                   Peas straw.
   In Scotland, the haum of peas is used as fodder
j  for working-horses instead of hay; and wnen well
  harvested, forms a very  excellent provender, inso-
]  much lhat it is considered to be  of almost  equal
|  value to the  grain itself.
               Tare-straw or hay.
   This is an article strongly recommended by some
  farmers; for when  the land has been dunged, ard
I  the seed good, the produce is considerable.   The
  crop should be cut as soon as the blossoms begin to
  fall off, or  the pods to form; and the whole, convert-
  ed into liay-tares,  require a great deal of sun to
  cure, and  rain  is very injurious to them.   Iv, would
  be a good plan to mix them with dry straw, which
  would improve both.
  Rules regarding the consumption of straw in feed-
                   ing cattli..
   Straw is much used in the feeding of cattle in
  Scotland;  and there can be no doubt that oxen will
  feed well on straw and turnips, if the straw be good.
  It is recommended, in all cases, that  for a month
  or six weeks after a bullock is put to turnips,  straw
i  only should  be givea with thein.  But in the  more 
346
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 advanced siages of fattening, hay is so much supe-
 rior, that it should if possible  be supplied.  It is
 certain, at the same time, that hay is a very expen-
 sive food for stock, and ought to be saved as much
 as possible Avhere it can prudently be done.  It is
 well  known that  a full allowance of turnips and
 straw, during the winter months, will ratten better
 than a small allowance of hay in place of the straAV.
 In the spring hay, which retains its nutritive juices
 longi-r than straw, is much more valuable, both for
 fattening stock and feeding horses; and it is there-
 fore  the practice to  reserve hay for ab >ut three
 months' consumption of these kinds of stock,  and
 for no others.
       Rules for feeding horses with straw.
  In regard to horses, they seldom get any hay for
 three months in winter;  but with straw'and the
 corn, which must always be given them, whether
 they get straAV or hay, they not only plough three-
 fourths of an English acre per  day, or work from
 seyen to eight hours at other labour, but are actu-
 ally full of flesh and vigour when sowing commen-
 ces.  They  must, however,  have hay instead of
 straw,  when the  severe  labour of spring takes
 place.
  When, therefore, farmers' horses are so much
 reduced in condition as to be unable to go through
 the severe  labour of  spring, it is oiving to their
 not having got a sufficient quantity of corn.   Peas
 and bean-straw  certainly make the best  fodder,
 when not injured by rain; but if that kind of straw
 is damaged in  harvest, white  straw is to be pre-
 ferred.
       Rules for feeding sheep  with straw.
  There is no food of which sheep are fonder than
 peas-straw.  The soil of the pastoral districts in
 Scotland, being  rarely of a kind calculated  for
 peas, any extensive cultivation of that grain is im-
 practicable; butVwhere circumstances are favoura-
 ble to that crop, peas ought  to  be cultivated, were
 it merely for the straw, as it would enable the store-
 farmers to carry on their system of sheep-farming
 with  much  more  advantage.   Indeed,  the same
 plan migh*- be advisable in  other districts. It might
 be  proper- to add, that for ewes at yeaning time,
 lentil-hay is better than tare-hay or even  peas-
 haum.
Miscellaneous rules and observations regarding the
             consumption of straw.
  On turnip farms in Scotland, it is the usual prac-
tice to feed horses till March, where the labour is
not severe, and cows through the winter, with oat-
 straw, whilst the fattening and straAv-yard cattle
get the straw of  wheat and barley.  If any peas or
beans be cultivated on the farm, that straw being
given to the  horses, a part  of the oat-straw may be
left for the fattening and straw-yard cattle.   Upon
turnip farms, it is not thought profitable to cut the
greater part of the clovers for hay. These are usual-
ly eaten by sheep, and no more hay saved, than what
 may serve the horses, cows, and  fattening stock, for
eight or ten  weeks, immediately before grass, with
a small quantity occasionally given to the  sheep fed
on turnips.
  The expense  of feeding even the horses  alone,
for eight months, on hay,  would be more  than a
farmer can well afford; at the same time it is a rule
 with the best farmers, to give hay to their horses
in the early part of winter; then  peas or bean straw,
till  seed-time commences in the spring; and after-
wards hay.
  Straw keeps much better unthrashed, in a large
stack, man in a barn.  Straw in general, more es-
pecially white  straw,  is found to lose its value as
fodder, in whatever way it may  be kept, after the
sharp dry breezes of the spring months have set in.
  It is a general rule, that  straw, when intended to
I be  used as food  for  stock, should be given, as
 speedily as possible, after  it is thrashed.  The
 thrashing separates and exposes it so much, that if
 kept long, it is, comparatively speaking,  of little
 value as fodder.   Lisle, an intelligent writer on
| agriculture, and a practical farmer, states, lhat he
I found cows did not eat straw so well on a Monday
 morning, as they did the rest of the Aveek,  because
 the straw was  not fresh from  the flail.    Straw,
 therefore, should  be  constantly made use of,  as
 soon after it is thrashed as possible; for by keep-
 ing, it becomes either musty, or too dry, and cat-
 tle do not eat it, nor thrive on  it so Avell.   It can-
 not be doubted  that air has a very  injurious effect
 upon all kinds  of fodder,  and the  more it can be
 kept from the influence of the  sun  and the atmos-
 phere, so  much the better.   It is seldom given as
 fodder, unless to straw-yard cattle,  after the month
 of March.
   When clover is soAvn with grain crops, the cloA'er
 has often arrived at such a length,  as to mix with
 the straw in cutting the crop.  This certainly im-
 proves the straAV in good harvests; but as little clo-
 ver as possible  should be cut with the straw, as it
 makes it very difficult to secure the crop, unless it
 be left upon the ground for several days.
           Straw as applicable to Utter.
   Straw, when  mixed ivith the dung and the urine
 of cattle,  horses,  he. he. is a nch and excellent
 manure; but even alone, when  ploughed in, or de-
 composed by pure  simple Avater, it is of use.  All
 the various sorts of straw answer the  purposes of
 litter. Some farmers contend that rye straw is the
 best litter; others prefer the straw of wheat, which
 absorbs, it is  said, so much urine and moisture,
 that a cart of wheat straw is supposed equal in value
 to three carts of well made dung. In England, tfr;
 stra.v  of  peas  and beans is extremely  valuable,
 forming, it is said, when well broken by thrashing,
 a  desirable litter for  working horses,  hogs,  and
 other  stock; but in Scotland,  it is never  used as
 litter,  unless it has been spoilt by bad management,
 or a most unseasonable  season  in  harvest, as its
 feeding properties are there so Avell known.  Lit-
 tering is of use, not only for  converting straw into
 manure, but for keeping the animals warm and dry.
 In fact, cattle cannot be soiled on clover, or fed on
 turnips, without abundance of litter.
  There are fo'.r modes of converting straw into
 dung,  by littering  stock:—1. In stalls or stables;
 2. In hammels; 3.  In fold-yards; and 4. In open
 folds,  where sheep  are littered  with straw.
  The quantity of dung produced from a given
quantity of straw,  depends a good  deal upon the
kind of straw that  is used  (as  some kinds absorb
much more moisture than others),  and upon  the
degree of  care  employed in  preparing the dung.
Speaking generally, the  original weight d straw
may be tripled, if  the manufacturing  process  be
properly conducted, and the  dung  applied to the
ground before its powers are lessened or exhausted.
The quantity of dung which may be made from an
acre, especially  if the  dung arising from  clover,
turnips, and hay, consumed on  a farm,  is included
in the general stock, will be something more than
four tons;  consequently, any farm  of decent soil
may be manured at the  rate of 12 tons per acre,
every third year, from its own produce, provided
the corn crops are cut with accuracy, and the straw
manufactured  into  dung, in  a husbandmau-liko
manner.
        Straw as applicable to thatching.
  For many ages 3traw was the common material
for  rooting  farm-buildings and cottages, and was
formerly made use of even in towns.   The expense
ofa thatched roof is not great, in so  far as respects
labour; and the value of the straw is, to the gro'i er 
HUSBANDRY.
347
either the price he could obtain for it,  or that  of
the dung that could be made from it, as the kind
used for thatch is seldom used as fodder.  Where
economy must be attended to in the building of
cottages, straw is taken as the least costly material;
but in these days, when  manure is so  extremely
valuable, as little straw as possible should be spared
for-other purposes.
  The durability of a thatched  roof  is likeivise
maintained.  A good coat of thatch will need very
little  repair during an  ordinary lease.  But care
must be taken that the straw is very clean thrashed.
If it is not, the grain left will soon spring, and in-
troduce putrefaction, and encourage vermin.  The
thrashing mill renders straw less fit for thatch than
when  it is thrashed by the flail.
  In Somersetshire, wheat is seldom thrashed ivith
the straw,  but the ears are cut off, and the straw,
bound  in sheaves, and tied very tight,  is used for
thatching.
          Miscellaneous uses of strew.
  It is well known that various articles are manu-
factured from straw, such as bonnets, and other or-
naments for the ladies. Even in the remote county
of Caithness, the straw manufacture is carried on.
The straw is prepared in London, and  the plait is
returned  to that market.   Straw-plaiting is the
principal manufacture in Bedfordshire. The quan-
tity thus  used is very considerable, and it furnishes
employment for  numbers  of persons who  might
otherwise with difficulty find the means of subsist-
ence.
  In some districts straAV mixed Avith clay  is used
for building the walls of houses or gardens, and
with the  same mixture for the roofs of houses, in-
stead of the common mode of thatching.
  In districts on the sea-shore, it is common for
experienced farmers to keep in reserve a conside-
rable proportion  of their wheat or barley straw, and
to make it into a dunghill, alternately with the sea-
wire, stratum upon stratum, till both are exhausted.
This is an excellent plan, Avhere the sea-weed can-
not be immediately applied; but it is the best sys-
tem to plough it in, when obtained.
  Near Gloucester great quantities of bean-haum,
as well as common straw, are bought up at a potash
manufactory, and burnt for the ashes.
  Straw is also used for slutting beds.  For that
purpose, the chaff" of  oats is found to be a material
not much inferior to ordinary feathers; and being
so much cheaper, chaff beds are1 almost universally
used by the lower orders in Scotland.
  Another purpose to which  straw is applied, is
that of packing;  and it is proper to observe, that
the quantity used in packing china and stoneware,
in the districts where these manufactories prevail,
as in Staffordshire, is found to be a serious injury
to the farmer.
   The most recent discovery, connected with any
straw production, is that of the Rev. James  Hall,
who has ascertained that every bean-stalk, accord-
ing to its  size,   contains  from 20 to 35 filaments,
which are of a   nature among the strongest, and
most durable  hitherto discovered.   He calculates
that on an  average there are about 200 lbs. weight
of such filaments on an acre, capable of being ap-
plied to  various useful purposes, where durability
and strength, rather than fineness and delicaey, are
required.
           To under-drain clay lands.
   This operation is always best performed in spring
or summer, when the ground is dry.  Main drains
ought to be made in every part of the field where
a cross-cut or open  drain  was formerly wanted;
they ought to  be cut four feet deep,  upon  an ave-
rage.  This completely secures them from the pos-
sibility of  ueing damaged  by the treading of hor-
ses or cattle,  and being s6 far below the  small
drains, clear the water finely out of them. In ever}
situation,  pipe-turfs for  the  main drain, if they
can be had, are preferable.  B" good stiff clay, a
single row of  pipe-turf;  if sandy,  a double row.
When pipe-turf cannot be got conveniently, a good
wedge-drain may answer well, when  the sub-soil
is a strong,  stiff clay; but if the sub-soil be only
moderately so, a thorn-drain, with couples below,
will do still better; and if the sub-soil is very sandy,
except pipes can be had, it is in vain to  attempt
under-draining the field by any other  method.  It
may be necessary to mention here, that the size of
the main drains ought to be regulated  according to
the length and declivity of the run, and the quan-
tity of water to be  carried off by them.  .It is al-
ways safe, however to have the main  drains large,
and plenty of them; for economy here  seldom
turns out well.
  Having finished  the main drains, proceed next
to make a small drain in every furrow of the field,
if the ridges formerly have not been  less than 15
feet Avide.  But  if that  should be the case, first
level the ridges, and make the drains in the best
direction, and at such a distance from each other
as may be thought  necessary.   If the Avater rises
well in the bottom of the drains, they ought to be
cut three feet deep; and in this case would dry the
field sufficiently well, although they Avere from 25
to 30 feet asunder; but if the water does not draw
well to the bottom of the drains, two feet will be a
sufficient deepness for the pipe drain, and 2^ feet
for the wedge  drain.  In no case ought they to be
shallower where the field has been previously lev-
elled.  In this instance,  however, as the surface
water is carried  off chiefly by the water sinking
immediately into the top of the drains,  it will bo
necessary to have  the drains much  nearer each
other—say from 15 to 20 feet.  If the ridges are
more  than 15 feet wide, however broad and irregu-
lar they may have been, follow invariably the line
of the old furrows, as  the best direction for the
drains; and, where they are high-gathered ridges,
from 20 to 24  inches will be a sufficient depth for
the pipe-drain, and from 24 to 30 inches for the
wedge-drain.  Particular care should be taken in
connecting the small and main drains  together, so
as the water may have a gentle declivity, widi free
access into the main drains.
   When the  drains are finished,  the ridges are
cleaved down  upon the drains by the  plough;  and
where they had been very high formerly, a second
clearing may be given; but it is better not to level
the ridges too much, for by allowing them to re-
tain a little of their former shape, the ground being
lowest immediately where the drains  are, the sur-
face water collects upon the top of the drains; and,
by shrinking into  them, gets  freely away.   After
the field is thus finished, run the new ridges across
the small drains,  making them about nine or ten
feet broad, and continue afterwards to plough the
field in the same manner as dry land.
   It is evident from the above method of draining,
that the expeuse will vary very much,  according to
the quantity of main drains necessary  for the field,
the distance of the small drains from each oUier,
and the distance the turf is to be carried.  In gene-
ral, Avhen the  drains are about 20 feet  asunder, the
cost will be about IL Is. per acre, for cutting, &c,
and ll. Is. per acre for cartage of turf.
   The advantage resulting from under-draining, is
very great;  for besides a considerable  saving annu-
ally of water furrowing, cross cutting, he. the land
can often be ploughed and sown to advantage, both
in the spring and in the fall of the year, when other-
wise it would  be found quite  impracticable;  every
species of drilled crop, such as  beans,  potatoes, 
348                           UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 turnips, &c. can  be cultivated successfully; and
 every species, both  of green and  white  crops, is
 less apt to fail in wet and untoward seasons.
                To drain  lands.
   Wherever a burst of water appears in any parti-
 cular spot, the sure and certain way of getting quit
 of such an evil is to  dig hollow drains, to such a
 depth below the surface as is required by the fall
 or level that can be gained, and by the quantity of
 water expected to  proceed  from the  burst or
 spring.  Having ascertained the extent of water to
 he carried off, taken the necessary  levels,  and
 cleared a mouth, or leading passage for the water,
 hegin  the  drain  at the extremity next to  that
 leader, and go on with the work till the top of the
 spring js touched, which probably will accomplish
 the intended object.   But if it should  not be com-
 pletely accomplished, run off from the main drain
 with such a number of branches, as may be required
 to intercept  the Avater," and,  in this  way, disap-
 pointment  will hardly be experienced.  Drains, to
 be substantially useful, should seldom  be  less than
 three feet in  depth, twenty or twenty-four inches
 thereof to  be close  packed with  stones or wood,
 according to circumstances.   The  former are the
 best materials, but  in many places are not to be
 got in sufficient  quantities;  recourse, therefore,
 must  often be made to the latter, though not so
 effectual w durable.
  It is of vast importance to fill up drains as  fast
as they are dug out;  because, if left open for any
length of time, the earth is not only apt to fall in,
but the sides get into a broken, irregular state,
 which cannot afterwards be completely rectified.
It also deserves attention, that  a proper  covering
~i straAV or sod should be put upon the top of the
materials, to keep the surface earth from mixing
with them; and where wood is  the material used
for filling up, a double degree of attention is ne-  i
cessary, otherwise ihe proposed improvement may
be effectually frustrated.
                 Pit draining.
  The pit  method of draining  is a very  effectual
one, if executed with judgment.  When it is suffi-
ciently ascertained where the bed of water is de-
posited, which can easily be done  by  boring with
en auger, sink a pit into the place, of a size which
will allow a man freely to work within its bounds.
Dig this pit of such a depth as to reach the bed of
the Avater meant to be carried off;  and when  this
depth  is attained, Avhich is  easily discerned  by  j
the rising of the water, fill up the  pit with great
land-stones, and carry off the water by a stout drain
to some adjoining ditch or mouth, whence it may
proceed to  the nearest river.
    Mr Bayley's directions for draining land.
  First make the main drains  down  the slope or
fall of the  field.  When the  land  is very wet, or
has not rauch fall, there  should in general be  two
of these to a statute acre; for  the  shorten the nar-
row drains are, the less  liable  they are  to acci-
dents.   The  width  of the trench for the main
drains should be thirty inches  at top, but the width
at the bottom must be regulated by the nature and
size of the materials to be used.   If the drain is to*  |
be made of bricks ten inches long, three inches  \
thick, and four inches in breadth, then the bottom  i
 if the drain must be twelve inches:  but if the com-
mon sale bricks are used, then the bottom must be
proportionably  contracted.   In both   cases there
must be an interstice of one inch between the bot-
tom bricks and the sides of the trench, and the va-
cuity must  be filled up with straw, rushes, or loose
mould.  For the purpose of making these drains,
the bricks  should  be moulded ten inches long,
four broad, and three thick; which  dimensions
always make the best drain.
             To construct main drains.
    When the ground is soft and spongy, the bottom
  of the drain is laid with bricks placed across.   On
  these, on each side, two bricks are  laid flal, one
  upon the other, forming a drain six inches higl»»
  and four broad, which is covered with  bricks laid
  flat.  When stones are used instead of  bricks, the
  bottom of the drain should be about eight  inches
  in  width; and  in  all ca6es the bottom  of main
  drains ought to be sunk four inches  below the
  level  of the narrow ones, Avhose  contents they re-
  ceive, even at the point  where the  latter fall  into
  thrm.
    The main drains should  be kept open or unco-
  vered till the narrow ones are begun from  them,
  after  which  they mav be finished;  but  before the
  earth is  returned  upon the stones or bricks, it is
  advisable to  throw in straw, rushes, or brushwood,
  to increase the freedom of the drain.  The small
  narrow drains should be cut  at the distance of six-
  teen or eighteen feet from each other, and should
  fall into the main  drain at veiy acute  angles,  tj
  prevent any  stoppage.  At the point where they
  fall in, and eight or ten inches above it, they should
  be made firm with brick or stone.   These  drains
  should be eighteen inches wide at the top, and six-
  teen at bottom.
                To fill drains.
   The completest method yet knoAvn, is to cut the
  strongest willows,  or  other  aquatic brushwood,
  into lengths of about twenty inches,  and  place
  them  alternately in the drain, with one end against
  one side of the bottom,  and the other leaning
  against  the  opposite  side.  Having placed  the
  strong Avood  in this manner, fill up the space be-
  tween them, on the upper  side, with  the small
  brush wood, upon  which a feAv rushes or straw
  being laid, as before mentioned, the work is done.
i  Willow, alder, asp, or beach boughs, are exceed-
 ingly  durable if put into the drain green, or  before
 the sap is dried; but if they are suffered to become
 dry, and then laid under ground, a rapid decay is
 the consequence.
   As  in some situations it is an object of great' im-
 portance to save the expense of materials commonly
  used  in filling drains, a variety of devices have,
  with that view, been adopted.  One of these, is of
  the following nature:  A drain is  first dug lo the
  necessaiy depth, narrow at bottom.  Into the trench
1  is laid a smooth tree, or cylindrical piece of wood,
i  twelve feet long; six inches diameter at the one end,
  and five at the other, having a ring fastened into
  the thickest  end. After strewing a little sand upon
 the upper side of the tree, the clay, or toughest
 part of the contents of the trench, is first thrown
 in upon it, and after that the remainder of the
 earth  is fully trodden down.  By  means through
 the ring, the tree is then drawn  out lo within a
 foot or two of the  smaller or hinder end; and the
 same operation  is  repeated till the whole drain is
 complete. Such a drain is said to have  conducted
 a small  run  of water a considerable  way under
 ground for more than twenty years, without any
 sign of failure.
|               To water meadows.
!   The water should be set on in the month of Oc-
i tober; and also as early  in that month as possible.
 The effects of this  watering are very important  in
 strengthening the roots, and stalks of the plants,
 and preparing them for  shooting up strong and vi-
 gorous, next  spring; and the blades that now rise,
 form a rough coat  against winter,  protecting the
 vital powers  of the plants from the sevei ity oi" that
 season.' It sometimes happens, also, that by de-
 laying the watering process too long, early frosts
 supervene, and very much impede  or prevent 'Jie
 operation.  The floods of aulumn are veiy enrich 
HUSBANDRY.
S49
ing to meadows; but this benefit is lost sight of, to
a certain degree, when the process of watering is
delayed too long.  Indeed the latter pasturage of
meadows may genera.iy be consumed early in Oc-
tober; and  what may then remain  is of no impor-
tance, compared with the advantages to be derived
from early watering. Besides, if the meadow must
be watered in separate divisions, and  at different
[leriods, it  must happen, that by delaying the ope-
ration till November, some parts of the meadow may
receive  no water sooner than December or Janu-
ary; and if these  months  are very severe, it may
be wholly impracticable to complete the process at
that season.
  If the-land is fine and rich, it will generally be
fbund, that three  Aveeks may be sufficient for the
first turn; if sour and  coarse, four weeks may be
necessary.  The verdure will then  be fine, and the
soil rich and yielding.  If scum appear on the
grass, the water must be instantly removed.
  Should  the ivater not overflow  properly,  stops
must be  placed in the small  feeders.  These are
either of stones or stakes, either of which are firm
and durable.   Sods rise and float away, and boards
are seldom firm enough, though  at times they may
answer well.   If the water, after all, does not flow
properly over, notches must be cut, in  order to
make passages for it.
  Separate divisions of meadow occupy the  water
in  succession throughout winter;  during which,
they ought all to have received one turn of the wa-
ter, as above  recommended, if not given in  later
than autumn.
  In severe frosts, it is  not very safe to remove the
water, as it operates so far to protect the grass; and
If exposed wet to  frost, it might be greatly in-
jured.   If it  be  necessary to alter  the water in
such Aveather, let it  be done in the  morning of a
dry day.
  In spring every division of the meadow requires
to be again watered;  and the fine rich verdure that
appears, with  the  soft unctuous tread of the soil,
are indications of advantage being obtained; but the
appearance of a Avhite scum warns the floater in-
stantly to remove the water.
               To form inclosures.
  Inclosures,  with some trifling exceptions, are
formed in Great Britain by building stone walls, or
planting thorn hedges.   According to the first me-
thod, the walls are either of dry  stone, or of stone
and lime;  and in  the  last instance lime is either
used only in bedding the outward part of the wall,
or applied to the whole of it, as circumstances may
render necessary.  These  walls are either coped
with sod, or have a cope which  tapers to the top,
closely built with stone and lime, or the coping is
executed with large  irregular stones, according to
the taste and dispositions of the persons by whom
they are erected.  A  wall built with stone and
lime is undoubtedly the preferable fence; but the
expense far exceeds the value of the interest Avhich
a tenant generally has in the premises. Such walls
ought,  therefore, in every case, to be erected by
the proprietor, who thus increases  the value of his
property, in a direct proportion with the increased
value given to the land, by the erection of  such
fences.
  To render  a stone  wall nseful  as a fence, its
Height ought never to be less than 5 feet, 3 inches,
Otherwise it will not keep in many of »he breeds
of sheep which prevail  in the country.  In erecting
the fence,  great care ought  to be taken to buiid
qpon a solid foundation, otherwise  the wall is apt
to incline  to a side, and gradually to fall down.
The coping should be made close;  for if the wa;er
gets down the inside of the wall, i: will bulge out,
and finally go to ruin.
I              To plant thorn hedges.
   When a thorn  hedge  is to be planted, it  is of
 advantage to fallow the ground a year before hand;
 and if the soil is poor, to dress it with dung, so that
; the young plants may not be oppressed with weeds,
 or stunted for want of food, when weak and una-
 ble to send forth their fibres in search of nourish-
 ment.  These things being attended  to, and the
 hedge  planted, an  annual cleaning ought to be
 given;  sometimes two cleanings are necessary be-
 fore the hedge will thrive.  It is also necessary to
 fence it at the back with paling, that beasts may be
 restrained from going over it, and to switch it over
 when 2 or 3 years of age, in order that it may be
 kept close at the bottom.
   As the hedge grows up,  repeated  cuttings are
 necessary, so that  a wide bottom may be gained,
 without which  no  hedge  can  be considered as a
 suitable fence;  and  some attention is required to
 give a proper shape  to the top, which is a matter
 of much importance  to the welfare of the hedge.
 When  thorns are allowed  to groAV  to unequal
 heights, the strong plants  are  sure to  smother the
 weak ones; and when the  hedge becomes broad at
.the top, it retains water and snow to the great injury
 of the  plant.   \U these evils may be avoided by
 proper management: though 12 years must elapse
 before the best-managed  hedge can be considered
 as a sufficient fence.
          To protect young thorn hedges.
   The expenses of protecting young hedges from
 cattle, by paling and railing, have always appeared
 to be  too great, and, at the same time, an onne-
 cessary consumption of wood and nails.  It occur-
 red to Mr Moore, steward to the Marquis of Bute,
 that a more economical protection might be effect-
 ed, by  forming  a small earthen dike upon the side
 of the ditch, opposite the line of thorns, sufficiently
 high to prevent cattle getting into the ditch.   Ac-
 cordingly, some years ago, he tried the experiment,
I and found it completely  to answer his expecta-
 tion.
   The materials of this sort of protection  being
 always on the ground,  it  is attended  Avith no ex-
 pense but the workmanship, and the  want of the
 use of the land  occupied  by this small ditch, for
 the time required, will be much more  than com-
 pensated by the saving of paling, railing, work-
 manship, and nails.   Mr Moore has also practised
 with success,  in parts where dead thorns, or brush
 for cocking, are scarce, the placing of stones across
 the top of the dike,  instead of  the usual cocking.
 Those  stones, after  having served their purpose,
 will be useful for drains or dikes where improve-
 ments are carrying on.
              To form a plantation.
   When  a plantation of timber is to  be formed,
 the first step necessary is to fence the ground that
 is to be planted, so that cattle of all  kinds may be
 kept  from making  inroads.  The ground to  bie
 planted  ought to be completely fallowed on the
 preceding year, and,  if in a rough or waste state,
 two years tallowing will be useful.  If wet or bog-
 gy, open drains are to be dug through all the hol-
 low places, so that  superfluous moisture may be
 removed.  These operations being performed, the
 planting may proceed, in executing which great
 care should be taken to make the pits of a proper
 size; and, in  filling them up, that  the best earth
 be returned nearest the roots.   A mixture of tim-
 ber, in the same plantation, is always advantageous,
 and thick planting is eligible for the purpose of
 affording shelter.  As the plantation  gets forward,
 attention  must  be paid to  thinning and pruning
 the  trees, removing always those first that aru
 either sickly or debilitated; and, in this way,  and
 by exercising constant attention in the management, 
*a60                          UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
timber  trees will adA-ance with double rapidity,
than when neglected and overlooked.
  Much expense is often incurred in planting trees,
which is afterwards lost by neglecting to train them
up.   Trees  indeed are, in most cases, put into
the earth, and then left to themselves, to grow or
die; whereas with them, as with all other plants,
the fostering hand of man is  indispensably called
for in every stage of growth, otherwise they will
rarely arrive at perfection, or make that return to
the owner which may b» .-easonably  expected,
when the several processes of planting, pruning,
and thinning, are duly  exercised.
  Planting trees in hedge-rows  is not only preju-
dicial to fences,  biu of great detriment  to  corn
crops cultivated  in fields surrounded  by these
hedge-rows, especially if the fields are  of  a small
size.  If shelter is wanted for a field, the best way
of procuring it is to form belts, or strips of plant-
ing, from 50 to  60 feel Avide;  for timber trees
thrive much better than when planted in rows, or
narrow  strips.  All cold,  or moorish, soils are
greatly  benefited  by being inclosed in  this  way;
though  it  may be remarked, that small  inclosures
ought to be avoided, because they occasion a great
wasle of ground without affording a benefit in other
respects proportioned  to the heavy expense  en-
tailed upon the proprietor or tenant, for supporting
such a number of unnecessary fences.
        The  best method of raising oaks.
  The Dutchess of Rutland has received the gold
medal of the Society  for the encouragement  of
Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce,  for  experi-
ments in raising oaks.  After five several  experi-
ments, her grace is of opinion that the best  method
is,  " to sow the acorns where they are to remain,
and, after hoeing the rows two years, to plant po-
tatoes,  one row only between each row of oaks,
for three years.  The benefit to the oaks from
planting potatoes is incalculable; for,  from  the
said experiments, and from  others made at  the
same  time, and with the same seedling oaks, plant-
ed with a mixture of larch, spruce, beech, birch,
and other forest trees, and also with oaks only—in
all cases she has found that potatoes between the
rows are so superior to all other methods, that the
oaks will actually grow as much the first four years
with them, as in six without them.  "It appears,"
she observes, "that the great  secret  in  raising
plantations of" oaks is, to get them to advance ra-
pidly the first 8 years from seed, or the first 5 years
from  planting, so as the heads of the trees are
completely united, and  become a smothering crop;
after this is effected, the trees will appear to strive
to outgrow each other,  and will  advance in height
rapidly; they will be clean straight trees, to any
given height: experiments  have  proved the fact,
which may be verified by viewing Bel voir."
DIRECTIONS FOR THE REARING O? SILK
                  WORMS.

  Procure  eggs in  February  and March, and
choose those of a pale slate or clay colour; avoid
all which are yellow, as they are imperfect. Keep
them in a cold dry place,  (where water will, how-
ever,, not freeze,) until the leaf buds of the mul-
berry begin to  swell.  If the eggs be soiled, dip
the paper or cloth to which they adhere, in water
once or twice, to wash  off the coat with  which
they are covered, and which will impede the hatch-
ing of the  worms.  It is not necessary to scrape
oft the eggs from the paper or cloth on which they
have been  deposited.  Dry them quickly in  a
draught cf  air,  and put them in one or more shal-
1 low boxes, lined with paper; which place, if pos-
|  sible, in a small room, of the temperature of 64°,
 I and keep it up to that degree for the two first (lays,
|j by means of a fire in the chimney, or slill better,
i  in a brick, tile, or porcelain stove; or for want of
I  these in an Iron stove; and use tanners' waste-bark,
  turf, or charcoal for fuel, to promote and keep up
 : a  regular heat day and night.  The third  day in-
 | crease the heat  to  66°, the fourth to 68°, the fifth
 | to 71°, the sixth  to 73°, the seventh to 75°, the
 j eighth to 77°, the ninth to 80°, the tenth, eleventh
  and twelfth  to 82°.  It is impossible to expect re-
  gularity in hatching,  if reliance  be  placed  upon
!' our variable weather;  and it is the regularity ot the
I' worms coming forth,  which will ensure  their uni-
  form  growth, save much  trouble in feeding and
  attending those of various ages, and  cause the
  Avhole, or the r;rea,ter part, to form their cocoons
 • at the  same time, provided proper care be given
  during their progress.
    When the eggs assume a whitish hue, the worm
  is formed: cover the eggs with white paper, (never
  use a newspaper) pieroed full of holes, the size of
  a large knitting needle; the Avorms, when hatched,
 .will creep through them; turn up the edges of the
  paper to prevent their crawling off.   Lay twigs of
  the mulberry, having two or three dry and young
  leaves on the paper, to collect the Avorms, and
 ; more as they continue to mount.   For want of
  mulberry leaves, feed for a short time upon lettuce
 j leaves perfectly dry; if large, they should be cut
 ] in strips, and the mid-rib  thrown  aAvay: or,  still
 j better, feed with the twigs of the Avhite  mulberry
|  tree cut rp fine.   The worms first hatched are the
!: strongest; nevertheless, if* only a few come out on
 j the first day, give them away, to save trouble, and
  depend upon those which appear on the second and
 I third  days.   Give away also the produce of tlie
 i fourth day,  and  then  the  whole stock will go on
 1 regularly.  If it be wished to  rear all that are
 I hatched, endeavour to keep the produce  of each
 I day separate, by numbering the boxes and shelves.
 ! When the leaves on the twigs are loaded Avith
 I worms, they are to be gently placed on clean stout
 ■ white paper laid on frames with crossed  rattans,
 i giving them plenty of room.   The  shelves, over
 | which these frames should slide,  may be four feet
 j square,  and fixed to upright posts;* they  may be
  multiplied as required.  Whether a distinct build-
 , ing or apartment in a dwelling-house  be devoted
  to a large parcel, it is absolutely necessary to se-
  cure the command  of a gentle  circulation of air,
  by having ventilators  in the windows, floors, and
  doors.
    One or more tin circular ventilators in place of
  panes of glass, wculd always ensure a regular cip-
  culation in  the  apartment: they  may be  stopped
  when their motion is  not required.  Red  ants are
  deadly enemies to silk worms; to  prevent their at-
  tacks, the posts  containing fixed  shelves must not
  touch the ceiling, hor must the shelves reach the
  walls; the lowerparts  of the posts should be smear-
  ed with thick molasses.  If the worms are fed on
  tables or moveable  frames, their  legs may also be
  smeared with molasses, or put in  a dish of water;
  guard  also  against cockroaches,  mice, and other
  vermin.
    The worms being all hatched, Aihether they are
  to remain in the first apartment, or be removed to
  another room, or distinct  building, the heat  must
  be reduced to 75°; for, as the worms gi jav older,
  they require less heat.
    It is impossible to insure the regular hatching of
  the worms  without the use of  a  thermometer,
  winch may be bought  for $2 50 at M'Allister's
  Ctiesnut street. Philadelphia. 
HUSBANDRY.
351
First age—lhat is, until the worms have passed
  their first moulting or changed their first skin.
  The apartment must be light, but the sun must
not shine on the worms in "any stage.
  Feed the worms with the most  tender leaves,
four times a day, alloAving six hours between each
meal; gi ve the smal lest quantity for the first feed i ng,
and gradually increase it at each meal between the
moultings.
  In about an hour and a half,  the silk worms de-
vour their portion of leaves, and then  remain more
or less quiet.  Whenever food is given, widen the
spaces for ihem; scattered food may be swept into
its place.
  Experiments may be made as to the comparative
advantages of using chopped or whole young leaves.
If chopped, a sharp knife must be used, to prevent
the leaves from being bruised, and thereby causing
the exudation of water from  them, Avhich would
prove injurious.  On the fourth day the skin be-
comes of a hazel colour and  looks shining, their
heads enlarge and assume a silvery bright appear-
ance; these are marks of their approaching first
change.   Their food on'this day, therefore, may
be  d.minished, or, when these appearances  take
place, but not before.  Enlarge the  spaces as the
worms increase in size.  The leaves ought to be
gathered a  few hours before  they are used, that
they may  lose their sharpness: they keep  very
well in a eool cellar three days; the leaves ought
to be gathered over night, for the morning's meal,
to prevent the  danger of collecting them in rainy
weather.  The leaves must be pulled carefully, and
not bruised.  On  the fourth day the appetites of
the worms begin to decrease, preparatory to their
first moulting,  and their food must be diminished
in proportion as the previous meal has not been
completely eaten.  If the  precarious heat of the
weather has bf»«"n depended upon, the first change
may not appear until the sixth or seA'enth day.
  In the course of  the fifth  day all  the worms be-
come torpid; during this period, and  in the subse-
quent moultings, they must on no account be dis-
turbed.  A few begin to revive at the close of the
fifth day; some leaves may be then given.  After the
first moulting, the worms are of a dark ash colour.
                  Second age.
  As the Avorms are fond of the young tAvigs, some
of these should be spread over them with the leaves
attached,  upon which the worms will immediately
fasten, and they may then  be removed to a cleau
paper; or  lay a strip of chopped leaves near the
worms, and they will leave the old  food.
  The litter is to be taken away; but as some of
the worms often remain among the old leaves, they
ought to be examined.  To this end, the litter
should be  removed to another room, spread out on
a table, and a feAV twigs placed over  it, on which
the Avorms, if ary, will mount, when  they may be
added to the others; this rule must be attended to
after every moulting.  Ten per cent, is generally
allowed for loss of young worms.   The two first
meals of the first day should be less plentiful  than
the two last, and must consist  of the most tender
leaves; these must be continued for food until after
the third moulting.
  If between the moultings any worms should ap-
pear sick, and cease to eat,  they must be removed
to anotl er room, where the air is pure and a little
warmer than that they have left, put on clean paper,
and some fresh leaves, chopped fine, given to them;
they will soon recover, and then may be added to
the others.
  On the  third day, the appetite of  many worms
will be visibly diminished; and, In the course of it,
many will  become torpid—the next  day all  are
 torpid; on the fifth day thev will all have changed
 their skins and will be roused.
   The colour of the worms in the second age be-
 comes a light grey, the muzzle is white, and the
 hair hardly to be seen.
   It must  never be forgotten, that, during the time
 the worms  are  occupied  in  moulting, the  food
I should be  greatly diminished, and no more given,
 lhan will satisfy those which have not yet become
 torpid on the first day, or those which have chang-
 ed their skins before'the others.
                   Tldrd age.
   During this age the thermometer must range be-
 tween 71°  and 73°.  The revived worms are easily
 known by their new aspect.  The  latest worm's
 should be  placed apart, as their next moulting will
 be a day later a'so, or they may be put in the hot-
 test part of the room to hasten their growth.  This
 rule must  be observed in the next  moulting—in-
 crease the spaces.
   The second day,  the  two first meals are to be
 Ihe least copious, the two last the greatest, because,
 towards the close of the day, the worms grow very
 hungry.   The third  day will  require about the
 same quantity as the preceding last meals; but on
 the fourth  day, as the appetites .of the worms  sen-
 sibly diminish, not more than half the former feed
 Avill be required.  The  first  meal is to be the
 largest:  feed those that will eat at any time of the
 day.  The fifth day, still  less  will suffice, as the
! greatest part are moulting; the sixth,  day  they
 begin  to rouse.   Remove the litter, or even before
 they have  moulted, if tne Avorms are numerous.
                  Fourth  age.
   The thermometer should range between 68° and
 71°.   If the weather be warm, and the glass rise
 several degrees  higher,  open the ventilators, ex-
 clude  the  sun,  and make  a  slight bJaze in the
 chimney, to cause a circulation of the air.  Widen
 the spaces for the Avorms.  The leaves must  now
 be regularly chopped  in  a straw-cutting  box, or
 with a chopping-knife.   The food is to be greatly
 increased  on the second, third, and fourth  days.
 On the fifth, less will be required, as in the course
 of this day many become torpid;  the first meal on
 this day should  therefore be the largest.   On the
 sixth, they will  want still less, as nearly the whole
 Avill be occupied in effecting their last change of
 skin.  Renew the air in the apartment by" burning
 straw  or shavings in  the  chimney, and open the
 ventilators.  If  the  evenings be cool, after a hot
 day, admit the external air  for an  hour.  None but
 full grown leaves should  be hereafter given to the
 worms, and they must be  all chopped; avoid the
 fruit,  as they 'rould prove injurious, and  add
 greatly to  the litter.   On tin seventh day, all the
 worms Avill have  roused, and  thus  finish  their
 fourth age.  The litter must be again removed.
!  Fifth age, or until the worms prepare to mount.
   The thermometer  should be about t>8°.   The
 constitution of the worms being now formed,  they
 begin to  elaborate the silk-vessels, and  fill them
 with the silky material, which they decompose,
 and form from the mulberry leaves.  Give abun-
 dance of room: do not let the worms lie so close ai
 to touch one another, for their respira'ion will be
 thereby impeded: continue to feed regularly and
 fully,  as the appetite  of the worms now  becomes
 voracious: give food rather five times a  day than
 four; even six meals will not be  too many.   The
 last meal should be late at night, and the first the
 next day in the morning, at an early hour.   The
 worms are not again to be moved, and the hurdles,
 or feeding frames, must be cleaned. On the seventh
 day of the  fifth age, they have attained their largest
 size, viz.  three  inches long,  and begin  to  grow 
352                            UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 shining and yellow.   The appetites of some dimi-
 nish, but that of  others continues,  and  must We
 supplied, to  hasten  their maturity. The litter
 must be removed  every two days, during the fifth
 age, but not when the worms are moulting, unless
 it can be done without disturbing them.
   The preservation of the proper temperature of
 the apartment at this  stage, cannot be too  seriously
 impressed upon  the cultivator.  If sudden  and
 great  heat  iu  the weather should take  place, as
 often  happens at  this time,  serious loss may be
 suffered,  without  proper  precautions.   The' in-
 creased heat,  lo  Avhich  the  Avorms  are  exposed,
 causes them to cease  eating, to leave tlieir feeding
 shelves, and to Avan ier about the room, in order to
 find corners and places to form th Jr cocoons in
 before the silk fluid has'been ful'y elaborated, or
 matured;  thus defeating, in a  great measure, all
 the care previously bestowed upon them.  In the
 summer of the year 1825, vast  numbei s of  worms
 were killed by hot weather, in Mansfield, Conrec-
 ticut.   To guard  against sudden heat iu  the wea-
 ther, close the window  shutters while the  sun is
 beating on  them,  and keep the ventilators in the
 ceiling or other parts of the  room open; and, if
 possible, tubs of ice  should  be brought  into the
 apartment, until the thermometer shows a diminu-
 tion of temperature  to the proper degree.  The
 windows must also be kept open every evening, and
 until  sunrise  ne\t morning, and water sprinkled
 on the floor, to promote evaporation, and  conse-
 quently a freshness in  the air.  If the worms  should
 become diseased during the fourth or fifth ages, oak
 leaves may be given to them.    These were stated
 to have been  found  very beneficial  in the year
 1772, in Bucks county; but the species of oak was
 not mentioned. The Avhite oak may be tried.
 Of l/ie rearing of si'.k worms  in the last period of
  the fifth age, that is, until  the  cocoon is per-
  fected.
  The fifth age can  only be  looked on as termi-
 nated, when the cocoon is perfect.
  The cleanliness  of  the feeding frames  in these
 last days of *he fifth age, requires great attention,
 to preserve the health  of the silk worm".
  About the tenth  day of the fifth age, the worms
 attain perfection, which may be ascertained by the
 following indications.
  1st. When on putting some leaves on the  wick-
 ers, the insects get upon the leaves without eating
 liiem, and rear their heads as if in search of  some-
 thing else.
  2d.  When looking at them horizontally, the
 light shines  through them, and  they appear of a
 whitish-yellow transparent coloQ1-.
  3d.  When  numbers of the  worms whicli were
 fastened to the inside of the edges of  the wickers,
and straightened, now get upon the edges and move
 slowly along, instinct urging them to  seek change
of place.
  4th.  When  numbers of Avorms leave the centre
of the  wickers, and try to reach  the edges and
 crawl upon them.
  5th.  When their rings draw in, and their green-
 ish  colour changes  to a deep golden hue.
  6th.  When their skins  become wrinkled  about
the neck,  and their bodies have more softness to
 the touch than heretofore, and feel like soft dough.
  7th.  When in taking a silk worm in the  hand,
and looking through it, the whole oody has assum-
ed the transparehcy of a ripe yellow p'lum. \\ hen
these  signs appear in any of  the insects,  every
tiling  should be prepared  for  their rising, that
those worms whicli are ready to rise may  not lose
their strength  and silk in seeking for the  support
they require. Handle the wormsat this stage  with the
greatest gentleness, as the slightest pressure injures
|j them.  When moved, they should be  left  on the
 j twigs or leaves to which thev are fastened, to pre-
,1 vent their being hurt bv tearing them off.  A blur'
  hook should be used to take up those not adhering
  to leaves or twigs.
             Preparation of the hedge.
    A week or ten Jpys before the worms are ready ti
  mount, bundles  of twigs of chesnut, hickory, oak
  or of  the birch of which stable brooms are made.
 ; must  be  procured, prepared,  and  arranged  in
 1 bunches, so that  the worms  may easily climb  up
 | them, to Avork their cocoons.  As soon as it is ob-
  served that the worms Avant to rise, the  bundles of
  tu igs must be arranged on the feeding trays, leav-
  ing fifteen inches between them. The top branches
  should touch the  low:-r partof the tray abovi- that
I on whicli they are placed, so as to form an arch—
  and  be placed a litlle aslant, that the worms, when
|| climbing, may not fall off.  The branches should
I be spread out like fans, that the air may peneU-ate
  through all parts, and the Avorms work  with ease.
  When the worms are too near one another, they
I do not work  so  well, and  form double cocoons^
j Avhich are only worth half a single round cocoon.
!  Leave openings at the tops of the curves, for the
j  worms to form their cocoons in.
j    As soon as the  Avorms are prepared to rise, the
j  feeding frames should  be cleaned thoroughly, and
  the  apartment avcII ventilated.   Put the worms
i  which are ready to  rise near the hedges, and give
  a few leaves to those that are  still inclined  to eah
  Alter they have begun to rise, those that are vveak
!  and lazy do not eat, do not seem to be  inclined  to
I  rise, and remain motionless on the leaves.   These
|  should be taken away, and put in a clean dry room,
  of at least 75°  of heat, where there are hurdles co-
  vered  with  paper,  aim  the  hedge prepared for
  them.  The increased heat will cause them to rise
  directly.  All the siLtc worms being off the hurdles,
 they should be immediately cleaned.   The tem-
 perature of the room should be between 68° and
 71°.   When the worms are forming their cocoons^
 the utmost silence must be preserved in the room,
 as they are very sensible to noise, and, if disturbed,
 will for a moment cease to spin; thus the continuity
 of the thread will be interrupted, and  the value
 of the cocoon diminished.  When the cocoons hav«
 attained a certain  consistency, the apartment may
 be left quite open.
 Sixth  age,  beginning  in the  chrysalis  state, and
          ending when the moths appear.
   The following are ihe necessary things to be donee
   1.  To gather the cocoons.
   H. To choose the cocoons which are to be pre-
 served for the eggs.
   HI. Preservation of cocoons until the appearance
 of the moth.
           /. Gathering of the cocoons.
   Strong, healthy, and well managed  silk worm*
 will complete their cocoons in three days and a half
 at farthest, reckoning from the moment when they
 first begin casting the floss. This period will be
 shorter, if the silk worms spin the silk  in a high-
 er temperature than that which has been indicated,
 and in very diy air.
   It will be better not to  take off the cocoon be*
 fore the eighth or ninth day, reckoning  from the
 time  when the  silk worm first rose.  They may lie
 taken offon the seventh, if the laboratories h we been
 conducted with such regularity, that the time may
 be known with certainty, when this may  be done.
   Begin on the lower tier  of hurdles, and take the
 cabins down  gently,  giving them to those who are
 to gather the cocoons; place a basket between two
 of the gatherers to receive the  cocoons; another
 person should receive the stripped hushes, which
 may be laid by for another year.  All the cocoon-' 
HUSBANDRY.
353
that  vvant a  certain  consistency,  and feel soft,
should be laid aside,  that they  may not be mixed
with the better.   Empty the baskets upon hurdles
or trpys placed  in rows, and spread  the cocoons
about four fingers deep, or nearly to the top of
the feeding frame.  When the cocoonsare detach-
ed, the  down or  floss in  which the  silk worms
have formed tbe cocoon, should be taken off.  If
the cocoons are  for sale, weigh them, and send
them to the purchaser.  The baskets, the floor and
all things used, should be cleaned.
  When gathering the cocoons,  make  four assort-
ments:—1st. Those designed for breed.   2d. The
dupions, or double ones.  3d. The firmest of those
which are to be  reeled.  4th. Those  of a  looser
texture.
II. Choosing the cocoons for the production of eggs."
  About two ounces of eggs may be saved out of
one pound and a  half  of male and female cocoons.
  The small cocoons ofa straw  colour, with hard
ends,  and fine webs,  and  which are  a little de-
pressed in the middle, as if lightened by a ring or
circle, are to be preferred.  There are no certain
signs to distinguish the male from the  female co-
coons: the best known are the following.
   Ihe small cocoons sharper at  one, or both ends,
and depressed in  the middle,  generally  produce
the male.  The round full cocoons without ring
or depression in the middle, usually  contain the
female.
  These may be  distinguished  from  the  dupions
hv the extra size,  the  clumsy shape, rather round
ifun oval, of the latter.   As however, all marks
mav  fail, an extra number  may  be kept, of the
best of those which are spun double; and when the
moths come out, the males and females being easily
distinguished, an addition can be made from them
ta the defective side.
  By shaking ihe  cocoon close to the ear, we may
generally ascertain whether the  chrysalis be alive.
If it  be dead,  and loosened from  the cocoon, it
yields  a sharp sound.  When  dead,  it yields a
muffled sound, and  is more confined in the co-
coon.
111. Preservation of cocoons intended for seed, or
        until the appearance of the moth.
  Experience shows that where ihe temperature
of ihe room is above 73 deg. the transition of the
chrysalis to the moth state would be too rapid, and
the coupling will  not  be productive; if below 66
deg. the development  of the moth is tardy, which
is also injurious.   Damp air will change it into a
Aveak and sickly moth; the apartment should there-
lore be kept in an even dry temperature,  between
C6 deg. and 73 deg.   When collected, spread the
cocoons on a  dry floor,  or on  tables, and strip
them clean of  down or  floss, to prevent  the fort
of ihe moth from being entangled in it when com-
ing out.  While cleaning them, all those that ap-
pear to have any defect should be laid aside; tins
is ihe time, also,  to separate the male and female
cocoons, as far as we can distinguish them.
  Select an equal number of males and  females,
and keep the cocoons  of the same day's mounting
separate, that the moths may  pierce them at the
8ame time.  If the good cocoons  taken from the
whole  parcel, are all first mixed, and the selection
for those intended for breeding  be made from this
general heap, many will he set  aside, which were
formed by worms that had mounted upon different
days, and which will be pierced by the moths un-
equally, and hence there will not be an equal num-
ber of males and  females  produced  at the same
lime; this irregular appearance  may cause the loss
of a  great many moths, or of several thousand

^VVheh ths selection has been made, tlie  sorted
      a U
cocoons must be put  on tables, in layers of about
tAvo inches, allowing the air to pass freely through
them, lhat  it may not  be necessary to stir them
frequently; but it is beneficial to stir them round
once a dav, if the air be  moist.  When the  seed
cocoons are not very numerous, they may be strung
upon threads, and hung against a wall, or suspend-
ed from a beam.  Just so much of the middle of
the cocoon is to be pierced with a needle as is suf-
ficient to attach it to the thread. The middle is
chosen, because it cannot be ascertained at which
end the moth will pierce the cocoon.  Place a male
and female cocoon alternately upon the thread, that
they may be near each  other when they come out.
  If the heat of the apartment is above 73°,  every
method of diminishing ihe heat  should be tried:
such as  keeping all the apertures to the Sunny side
carefully closed, to cause thorough drafts of air to
dry the  humidity that exhales from the chrysalides.
Should the temperature rise to 78° or 82°, the co-
coons must be put in a cooler place, as a dry cellar.
         Seventh age  of the silk worm.
  The seventh,  and ihe last age of the silk worm,
comprises the entire life of the moth.
  Tlie formation of the moth, and  its disposition
to issue from the cocoon, may be ascertained when
one of its extremities is perceived to be wet, whicli
is the part occupied by the head of the moth.   A
few hours after, and sometimes  in one hour after,
the moth will pierce the cocoon and come out; oc-
casionally the cocoon is so hard, and  so wound in
silk, that the moth in vain strives to come  forth,
and dies in the cocoon.   Sometimes the female de-
posits some eggs in the cocoon before  she can get
out, and often perishes in it; this circumstance has
induced some to extract the chrysalis from the co-
coon by cutting it, that the moth may have only to
p'.orce its thin envelope; but the experienced Dar,-
dolo disapproves of the practice (although he h;.s
performed  the  operation wilh success) because it
is tedious;  and should  the moth  be put on a plain
surface, five in a hundred  will not be able to get
out, but will drag the envelope a'.ong, and at  last
die, not being able  to disencumber themselves.
If the surface be not  smooth, the moths will issue
with greater ease; it is very favourable to the moths
Avhen they put  forth their  head and first legs, to
find some substance to  which they may fasten, and
thus facilitate clearing out of the cocoon by the
support.  For this reason, they sjiould be spread
out very thin on tables covered  with a muslin or
linen cloth.   The life of the moth  lasts, in Italy,
ten, eleven,  or twelve  days, according  to l ihe
strength of its  constitution, and  the  mildnesk of
the atmosphere.  With Mr Dusar,  of Philadel-
phia,  the moths lived from five to eight days; a hot
temperature  accelerates  their operations anifjhe
drying which precedes  their death.
  Hatching of the moths, and their preservation.
  Cocoons kept in a temperature of 66 degrees be-
gin to be hatched after  fifteen days; those kept in
a heat between 71 and 73 degrees, begin to come
forth after eleven or twelve days.   The room in
which the moths are  produce! should be dark, or
at least there should be only sufficient light to dis-
tinguish objects.  This is an important rule, and
must be carefully attended to.  The moths do  not
come forth in great numbers the first or the second
day, but are chiefly hatched on the fourth, filth,
sixth, and seventh days, according to the degree
of heat in which the cocoons have been kept.  The
hours  when the"*moths burst  the cocoons in the
greatest numbers, are the three and four hours &i-
ter sunrise, if the temperature is from 64 to 66 de-
grees.  The male moths, the veiy moment they
come out, go eagerly in quest of the female; when
they  are united, they must be  placed on frames
                                  2 £ 2 
354
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 covered Avith linen, and made in such a manner as
 to  allow  the  linen lo he changed when soiled.
 Much  care must be  taken  in  raising the united
 moths; they must be  held by the wings  in order
 not to separate them.  When one  smpll table is
 filled  with moths in  a state of union, they are to
 be carried into a small room, sufficiently airy and
 fresh, and which can  be made very dark.  Having
 employed the first hours of the day in  selecting
 and carrying the united moths,  the  males and fe-
 males which are found separate on the tables,  are
 to  be brought into contact, put on frames and  car-
 ried into  the dark room.  It is easy to ascertain it
 there are more females than males.  The body ot
 the female is  nearly double  the size of that of the
 male; besides, the male which is  single, beats
 about its  wings at the least approach of light;  the
 hour must be noted al which the tables containing
 the united moths are placed in the dark room.
   If, after this operation is over, there stilt remain
 some moths of each sex, they are to be placed in
 a small box with a perforated cover, until *he mo-
 ment favourable  for  their  union arrives.  From
 time to time,  they must be looked at, to see if they
 separate,  in order that they  may be brought anew
 into contact.          ■
   When any thing is  to be done in the dark cham-
 ber, as little light as  possible must be  admitted;
 only sufficient to distinguish objects.   The more
 light there is, the more the moths are disturbed
 and troubled  in  their operations, as light is too
 stimulating for them.  The boxes are  very con-
 venient to keep quiet  the males which remain, and
 thus  prevent  the fine powder   adhering to their
 wings from flying about, and the destruction of their
 wings,  and consequently their vital  power.   The
 cocoons must be removed as fast as they are pierced
 by the  moth,  for being moist,  they communicate
 their humidity to those which are still entire. The
 paper,  also, on the trays, when  soiled, is to be re-
 moved, and fresh supplied.  Constant attention is
 required during the whole  day, as there is a  suc-
 cession in the process of hatching, and union of
 the moths, which  occasionally vary in relative
 proportion to one another.   Instead  of a frame,
 paper may be used for receiving the eggs. A few
 good cocoons  will not produce  a  moth, owing to
 their hardness, which  prevents the moth  from
 making a hole by which to come forth.
   Separation  of the moth, and laying the eggs.
   If there be an excess of males, they must be
 thrown away;  if of females, males must be allotted
 to  them,  which have already been in a state of
 union.  Great care must be taken, when  the cou-
- oles are separated, not to injure the males.  The
 male ought not  to remain  united  more than six
 nours; after the lapse of that time, take the moths
 by the wings and body, and  separate them gently.
 All the males which are no  longer in union, must
 be placed upon a frame; the most vigorous after-
 wards  selected,  and  united with  those females
 which have not yet had a mate.  Other vigorous
 males must be preserved in a  separate  box, and
 kept in darkness. When there is a want of males,
 let them  remain united to the frmale|be first time
 only five  hours instead of six; the females are not
 injured by waiting for the male even many hours;
 the only loss  sustained is that of some eggs, whieh
 are not impregnated.  Before  separatii--; the two
 sexes, prepare,  in a  cool, dry,  airy chamber, the
 linen on  which the moth is to deposit its eggs.
    Six hours, as just said, is the usual time for the
 moths to remain united, for in that time the eggs
 of the female will be fully imp-^gnated.  It is
 also the  general practice not to use the male for
 another female; but Mr Delonchamps assures us,
 that in the event of having more female than male
 moths, the latter may be again  used to profit.   In
 the year 1824, he raised  many  worms  from eggs
 the produce of a sixth cnupling, which were fully
 equal to those produced from eggs at the first; the
 union  continued never less than  from 20  to  24
 hours; the male after a sixth  union  appeared as f
 lively  and brisk as at first, but he had  no more
 females.  The eggs from even  a thirteenth union
 of the same male Avith different females,  had all
 the  characters of those  of the best quality.   In
 these cases, the disunion of the pair was, moreover,
 never  spontaneous, but always  required to  be ef-
 fected by the hands.
  The following is the manner in  whicli the cloth
 must be arranged:—
   At the bottom of a  tressel or frame,  which must
 be  proportioned to the  number of moths, place
 horizontally,  on eaeh siifo of the length, two
 boards, so arranged,  that  one  of  their sides may
 be nailed to the tressel, about five inches  and  a
 half high above the  ground,  and that the other
 side of the board shall be a little higher, and pro-
 ject outwards.  Upon the tressel lay a cloth, so
 that it may hang equally on each side.  The ends
 of the cloth must cover the boards below; the more
 perpendicular the lateral parts of  the  tressel are,
 the less soiled  will be the cloth by the evacuation
 of the liquid from  the moths.   The moths which
 have been united six hours are then to be  gently
 separated, the  females  placed  on the frame, and
 carried to the tressel  and placed on the cloth, one
 over another, beginning at the top and going down-
 wards.   Note  the  time at which  the mollis  are
 placed  on the cloth, and keep those Avhich are
 placed  afterwards  separate, to avoid contusion.
   The females that have had a virgin  mate must
 be treated in the same manner as those which have
 been united wilh one  that  had been coupled pre-
 viously five hours.  The females should be left on
 the cloth 36 or  40  hours, Avithout being touched;
 at this time,  if it  be  observed that the  linen has
 not  been well  stocked  with  eggs, other females
 must be placed upon it,  in order that the eggs
 may be equally distributed.  When the heat of the
 room is 77 or 79 degrees, or Avhen at 63 or 65 de-
 grees, the eggs will  be yellow, that is unimpreg-
 nated;  or of a reddish colour, that is  imperfectly
 impregnated, and  will not produce  worms:  the
 temperature of the room  must therefore be kept
 between  these  extremes.   Sometimes  a female
 moth will escape from its mate before impregna-
 tion, and produce many useless eggs.
   The female cocoons, as  before noted,  are gene-
 rally larger than the males, and not so much pointed
 as these are, and are without the ring or depression
 in the middle,  which commonly distinguishes the
 coo*»ons containing the latter.
   Eight or ten days after the deposition  of the
 eggs, the jonquil  colour  peculiar to them will
 change  to a reddish  gray, and afterwards into a
 pale clay hue; they are of a lenticular form, and on
 both surfaces there i. a slight depression.
            Preservation of the eggs.
   Collect the eggs  which have fallen on tlie cloth
 covering the shelves of the tressel, when quite dry,
 put them in a box, and, if numerous, in layers not
 more than half the  breadth of the finger.  The
 cloths raised from  the tressel when quite dry, are
 to be folded  and placed in a dry room, the tempe-
 rature of which does  not exceed 65°, nor below the
 freezing point, 32°.
   During the summer the cloths must be examined
 every month, to remove  insects;  and  to  preserve
i the cloths always  in  fresh air,  if the  quantity be
 large, place  them  on a frame of cord  attached to
 the ceiling, or a rafter.  A bam-l-hoop, crossed
 with stout pack-thread, will maEe a good frame- 
HUSBANDRY.
355
A small quantity may be kept in a tin case.  If a
board box be used, the joints and edges of the top
should be pasted with paper to exclude ants.
  There exists a notion  that every two  or three
years the eggs should be changed.  It requires lit-
tle to be said on this egregious error.  To suppose
that  the good  cocoons of a cultivator, after a few
years, are iio longer fit to produce seed, and yet
that these cocoons can give good seed for the use
of another, Avould be to admit a superstitious con-
tradiction,  Avhioh  reason,  practice,  and science,
alike condemn.  A change  of seed  can only  be
necessary, Avhen from great neglect, for a series of
years, of the worms, a diminutive race has  been
produced.   Worms  properly treated, Avill  never
degenerate.  On the subject of the degeneracy of
silk worms, in the United States, the most posi-
tiA'e information can lie given.
  Mr Samuel  Alexander, of Philadelphia, says,
"lam  convinced  that  silkworms,  cultivated  in
Pennsylvania,  instead of degenerating, improve;
proof of which I possess, in comparing the cocoons
of four years since, with those of the last year.   I
can  say with truth,  the worms hatched from the
eggs 1 brought from  the  south  of Europe,  have
produced  annually better  silk."  The testimony
of Mr Sharrod M'Call, of Galaden county, Flo-
rida, is still more decisive.
  A sample of beautiful sewing-silk, sent with his
communication to the Secretary of the Treasury,
was  part of a parcel produced by worms, the slock
of which he has had thirty years; and they were
obtained from a maternal ancestor, who  had pos-
sessed them many years before.
  During all this long period, no degeneracy has
been observed.  Let proper  care be taken of silk
worms, and no deterioration will take place.
  The time has passed when the idle reveries of
Buffon, Robertson, De Pauiv, and others, respect-
ing  the tendency  of nature " to belittle" and de-
generate every thing foreign in the new world, were
received as truths.   Facts,  proud facts, demon-
strate not only the absurdity of their positions, but
the superiority of every American animal and vege-
table, when compared with similar productions in
the old world.
                To bake cocoons.
  Cocoons  reel more readily, and yield silk of a
superior quality, without killing the insect by either
steam of hot water, or by baking them;  but those
who have  not the means of reeling off their co-
coons in two or three days after they are formed,
or of selling them, must kill the insects  they con-
tain, or they will eat through, and spoil the cocoons
by breaking  the  continuity  of the  thread.  The
easiest way to do this, is to bake them in an oven,
 which must be about as hot as when bread has been
taken out of it.  After picking  out all the spotted
eocoons,  put  the rest in flat baskets, filling them
 within an inch of the top: cover them with paper,
and a wrapper over it: put these baskets in the
 oven,  and after an hour, draw them out, and cover
them with a woollen rug, leaving the wrapper as it
 was.  Let them stand five or six hours, to  keep in
 the heat and stifle  the  chrysalis.  Then  spread
 them  in  thin layers on shelves,  and move them
every day (to prevent their becoming mouldy)  un-
 til  perfectly  diy.   It may be  important to  siate,
that the  birth  of the  moth may be prolonged a
 month by keeping the cocoons  in a very cold  dry
cellar. If  the cocoons are kept over summer, they
 must be protected from ants, mice, and cockroches.
   N. B. Mr D. Tees, No. 150, North Front street,
 and B. F. Pomeroy, corner of Walnut -and Dock
 streets, Philadelphia,  are recommended to those
 «who wish to have silk-reels  made.
    On the culture of the white mulberry tree.
  The proper soils for this tree are dry, sandy, or
stony:  the  more  stony the  better,  provided the
roots can penetrate them.   The situation should be
high:  low,  rich,  and moist lands never produce
nourishing  leaves, however vigorously the  trees
may grow.  They are ahvays found to be too watery.
The same remark may be made upon the leaves of
young seedling plants, which will not produce good
or abundance of  silk, and are only proper when
the worms  are young; say in their two first  ages.
It may be useful to have a parcel of these growing
in a Avarm situation,  tlurt they may come forward
before  large trees, and serve for early food.
  Mulberry trees may be propagated by—1st, seed;
2d, graftings  3d,  budding; 4l!i, Ia)'ers; 5th, cut-
tings;  6th,  suckers.
  The ripe fruit may be sown in drills, in ground
previously prepared; or the  seeds may be washed
out of  the pulp, and mixed with an equal quantity
of sand  or fine  mould,  and then sown.   They
should be covered about a quarter of an inch deep.
The seeds will soon vegetate if ihe ground be rich,
and will  live  through the winter, unless the cold
should be unusually  severe.   A quantity of plants
from seeds thus treated, lived through the  cold
winter of 1825—6, in Philadelphia.   In very cold
weather, the  young plants  may be  covered with
straw,  or long manure. The following spring, thin
the plants so that  they may stand one foot apart at
least.  Seeds  intended to be sown in the spring,
or to be kept, should be Avashed out, as they are
apt to  heat, or to  mould,  if permitted to remain  in
the fruit.   Land destined tor spring  sowing should
be dug or ploughed  in the preceding autumn, left
rough  all Avintar,  and be harrowed or raked fine, as
soon as the season will permit, and  the seed sown
in drills.   The young plants  must be watered  in
dry  Aveather, and  weeds  carefully kept  down.
Weeds will not only stint the growth of the plants
but cause disease in them, which  may affect the
future vigour and health of the tree.   In the second
year transplant, them to two feet distance from one
another, to give  room for cleansing and dressing
the land. •  When transplanting, cut off some of the
roots,  especially those that are  ragged or decayed,
and the tap root,  to force out lateral  roots; and also
the tops, at six or seven  inches from the ground.
When the plants in the nursery have sprung, strip
off the side buds, and leave none but such as are
necessary to form the head of the tree.  The buds
which are left should be  opposite to one another.
If the plants in the nursery do  not  shoot well the
first year, in the mouth of March  following cut
them  over,  about seven inches from the ground,
and they will grow briskly.  They should be wa-
tered  with diluted barn-yard water.
   When the plants have  groAvn to the  size of one
inch in diameter, plant them out in fields or places
I where they are to remain, and  make the hole six
j feet square:  trim the roots, aud press die earth on
I the roots as the holes are filled.  During the first
| year of planting out, leave all the buds which the
young trees have pushed out on the top till the fol-
: lowing spring, when none are to be left, but three
 or four branches to form  the head of the tree.  The
 buds on those branches should be on the outside of
 them, that the shoots may describe  a circle round
 the stem, and that the interior  of the tree may  be
 kept open: and as  the buds eome out, rub off all
 those on the bodies of the trees.   For several years
 after,  every spring,  open the  heads of the  trees
 when  too  thick  of wood, and  cut off any branch
 which crosses 91- takes the lead of the rest, leaving
 two buds on the outside of every trimmed branch.
 Count Verri, of Italy, an experienced cultivator of 
ECEIPT BOOK..
356                           UNIVERSAL  I

the mulberry tree, recommends to leave only one
bud at the  end of every branch,  preferring those
which are outside, and opposite to each other; and
when three buds appear together, to leave the mid-
dle one, which is always most vigorous, and to de-
tach the tivo  on each side of it.   If the superior
buds  do not push well,  the. two next lower ones
must be left.   Every farmer knows the very great
importance of dressing ground round young trees
twice in the course of a year, and of securing them
to stakes, to insure an upright straight growth, and
to prevent their being shaken by winds, or levelled
by storms.   The trees may be planted at the usual
distances of apple trees.   The intervals may be
cultivated in cabbages, turnips, or mangel wurlzel.
The attendance necessary to Indian corn would en-
danger the young trees.
  Il is so much the practice an the United  States
to let trees take their chance for growing, after they
have been  planted, or sprung up from seeds or
stones, that these particular directions may be dis-
regarded.  But let a comparative experiment  be
made  with mulbeny trees  permitted  to grow at
will, and others treated as here directed,  and the
difference in  their beauty and growth will be ob-
vious.  The advantage, in these respects, will  be
decidedly in favour of trees which  have been at-
tended lo.
  Without  deciding upon the superiority  of the
various modes of propagating mulberry trees, it is
          TO MANAGE A DAIRY.

Improved mode of feeding and milking cows, near
              Farnham in Surry.
  Directions to the cow feeder.—Go to the cow-
stall at 6 o'clock in the morning, winter and sum-
mer; give each cow half a bushel of the mangel-
wurzel,  carrots, turnips,  or  potatoes, cut;  at  7
o'clock, the  hour the dairy  maid  comes to milk
them, give each some hay, and let  them feed, till
they are all milked.—If  any cow refuses hay, give
her something she will eat, such as grains, carrots,
&c. during the time  she  is milking, as it is abso-
lutely necessary the cow should  feed whilst milk-
ing.  As soon £.8 the woman has finished milking
in the morning, turn the cows into the airing
ground, and  let there be  plenty of fresh water in
the troughs; at 9 o'clock  give each cow 3 gallons
of the  mixture, fas under: to 8 gallons of grains
add 4 gallons of  bran or  pollard;) when they have
eaten that, put  some hay into  the cribs; at  12
o'clock give each 3 gallons of the mixture as  be-
fore; if any cow looks for more,  give  her another
gallon; on the contrary, if she  Avill not eat what
you gave her, take  it out of the manger, for never
at one time let a cow have more than she will eat
up clean.—Mind and keep the mangers clean, that
they do not get sour.  At 2 o'clock give each coav
half a bushel of carrots, mangel-wurzel, or tur-
nips; look tlie turnips, he. he.  over  well, before
giving  them  to the cows, as one  rotten turnip will
give a bad taste to the milk, and most likely spoil
a whole dairy of butter.  At 4 o'clock put the coavs
Into the stall to be  milked; feed them on hay as
you  did  at milking-time in the  raorninp- keeping
thought proper to mention the great advantage ol
the mode of budding.  In the year 1825, Mr Mil-
lington, of Missouri, « budded"the white mulberry
on  stocks of native trees; and such as Avere done
before July, were forced out immediately by cut-
ting off the stocks above the buds.  Some of these
buds  made limbs more than two feet  long by the
27th October.  The  buds put in after the middle
of July, he did not  intend to  force out until the
folloiving spring.  He thinks budding  more expe-
ditious and surer than engrafting, and when it fails,
does not injure  the  stock so much as this mode.
NatiA-e  stocks, to engraft or bud on,  can  be pro-
cured with ease; and the trees  thus raised would
not be liable to disease in their roots,  like foreign
trees: and  these engrafted or budded  trees would
grow much faster, and furnish leaves much sooner,
and of a larger size, and betterquality. This will
not be doubted by those avIio have observed hour
much faster an engrafted tree groAvs, and how much
larger its leaves are than those ofa  seedling tree."
  Experience has fully shoAvn that ihe leaA'es of the
native mulberry tree produce good and strong silk,
although not so fine  as that from  the white mul-
berry.   Those, therefore, who  have only the na-
tive tree, may begin  their operations with  it: and
they wili acquire a knowledge of the  business of
rearing silk worms, while the  foreign species is
growing.
in mind that the cow whilst milking must feed on
something.  At 6 o'clock give each  cow 3 gallons
of the mixture as before.   Rack them up at 8
o'clock.  Twice in a week put into each cow's
feed at noon,  a quart of malt-dust.
  *  * The daily expense of subsisting each cow
on the above feed will be about two shillings.
  Directions  to  the dairy maid.—Go to the cow-
stawl at 7 o'clock;  take with you cold water and a
sponge, and wash  each  cow's udder clean before
milking; dowse  the udder well with cold water,
winter and summer, as it braces and  repels heats.
Keep your hands «nd arms clean.  Milk each cow
as dry as you can, morning and evening, and when
you milk each cow as you suppose dry, begin again
with the cow you first milked, and drip them each;
for the principal reason of cows failing in their
milk is from negligence in not milking the cow
dry, particularly at the time the calf is taken from
the cow.  Suffer no one to milk a cow but yourself,
and have no gossiping in the stall.   Every Satur-
day night give in an exact account of the quantity of
milk each cow has given in the week.
 To make oats prove doubly nutiilious to horses.
  Instead of grinding  the oats, break them in a
mill; and the same quantity will prove doubly nu-
tritious.  Another method is, to boil the corn, and
give the horses the liquor  in  which it has been
boiled; the result will be, that instead of 6 bushels
in a  crude state, 3 bushels  so prepared will  be
found to answer, and to keep the animals in supe-
rior vigour and Condition.
     Cheap method of rearing horned cattle.
  After having expressed the oil from the linseed,
make up the remaining husks or dross into round
EUEAI  &W& DOMESTIC  ECONOMY. 
UURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY.
367
 balls of the size ofa fist, and afterwards dry them;
 infuse and dissolve tAvo or  tore*" of these  halls in
 hot w:iter, and add in the beginning a third  or
 fourth part of fresh milk, hut afterwards, Avhen the
 calves are  grown, mix Only skim milk with  the
 inf.sion.
                 To rear calves.
   The best method  of rearing calves, is to take
 them off the cows in three Aieeks  or a month, and
 to give them nothing  but a little fine hay, until
 they begin through necessity to pick a little: then
 cut some of the hay and mix it with bran or oats
 in a trough, ;\nd slice  some turnips about the size
 of a crOAvn piece,  which they will soon by licking
 leal n to eat: after which give them turnips enough.
           'To rear calves without  milk.
   In two or three days after they are calved take
 the calves  from the'coAvs, put them in a house by
 themselves, then give  ihem a kind of water gruel,
 composed  of about one-third of'barley and two-
 thirds of oats ground  together very fine, then  sift
 the mixture through a very fine  sieve, put it into
 the quantity of water  below mentioned, ani^  boil
 it half an hour, when  take it off the fire, and let it
 remain till it is milk-warm; then give each calf
 about a quart in the morning, and the same quantity
 in the evening, and increase it as the calf grows
 older.  It requires very litlle trouble to make ihem
 drink it; after the calves have had  this diet about a
 week or ten days, tie up a little bundle of hay and
 put it in the middle of the house,  which they will
 by degrees come  to eat: also put a little  of  the
 meal above mentioned in a small  trough for them
 to eat occasionally; keep them in this manner until
 they are of proper age to turn out to grass,  before
 which they must be at least two months old.
   Another method.—Make an infusion of malt, or
 fresh wort as a substitute for milk; in summer it
 may be given to the calves, cold, but in Avinter it
 must have  the same degree  of warmth as the milk
 just coming from the cow; the quantity is the same
 as the milk commonly given at once to a calf,  aud
 to be increased in  proportion as the calf grows,
                'To fatten poultry.
   An experiment has lately been  tried of feeding
 geese  Avith turnips  cut in small pieces like dice,
 but less in  size, and put into a  trough of  water;
 Avith this food alone, the effect was that 6  geese,
 each Avhen lean  Aveighing only  9 lbs.,  actually
 gained 20 lbs. each in  about 3 weeks fattening.
   Malt is an excellent food for geese and turkeys,
 grains are  preferred for the sake of economy, un-
 less for immediate and rapid fattening: the  grains
 should be boiled afresh.
   Otlier cheap articles for fattening  are  oatmeal
 and treacle; barley-meal and milk; boiled oats and
 ground malt.
   Corn before being given to foAvls should always
 be crushed and soaked in water.   The  food will
 thus go further,  and it will help digestion.  Hens
 fed thus have been known to lay during the whole
 of the winter months.
             To choose a milch cow.
   As to a choice of breeds  for a  private family,
 none in .England, (says Mr  Lawrence,) probably
 combine so many advantages as the Suffolk dun-
 ooavs.  They excel both in quantity and quality of
 milk; they feed well  after they   become barren;
 they are small-sized, aud  polled or hornless; tlie
 lasta great  convenience.  The horns of cows which
 butt and gore others, should be immediately broad
lipped.   There is a breed  of polled Yorkshire or
 Holderness cows, some of them of middling size,
great milkers, and well adapted to  the use of fami-
lies, where a great  quantity of milk is required,
and Avhere  price is no object, and  food  in plenty.
if richer milk and a comparison of tlie two famous
breeds be desired, one of each may be selected,
namely, the last mentioned, and the other of the
midland county, or long horned  species.  Colour
is so far no  object, that neither a good cow nor a
good horse can be of a bad colour; nevertheless,
in an ornamental view, the sheeted and pied stock
of the Yorkshire short-horns, make a  picturesque
figure in the grounds.
  The Alderney cows yield rich milk  upon  less
food than larger stock, but are  seldom large milk-
ers, and  are particular.y jcanty of produce in the
winter season.   They are, besides, worth little or
nothing as barreners, not only on  account of their
small size, but their inaptitude to take on fat, and
the ordinary quality of their beef.
       'To determine the economy of a caw.
  The annual consumption of food per cow, if turn-
ed to grass, is from one acre to an acre and a half
in the summer, and from a ton to a ton and half of
day in the winter.  A cow may be alloAved 2 pecks
of carrots per day.  The grass being cut and  car-
ried will economize it full one-third.   The annual
product of a good fair dairy cow, during  se.eral
months  after  calving,  and either in  summer or
winter, if duly  fed and kept in the latter  season,
will be an average of seven  pounds of butter  per
week, from five to three gallons of milk per day.
Afterwards, a weekly average of three or four lbs.
of butter from  barely half  the quantity of milk.
It depends on  the  constitution of the  cow,  how
nearly she may be milked to the time  of her calv-
ing, some giving good milk until within  a week or
two of that period, others requiring to be dried 8
or 9 Aveeks previously.  I have heard  (says Mi-
Lawrence) of 20 lbs. of  butter, and even 22  lbs.
made from the  milk of one long-horned cow in se-
ven days:  but I have never been  fortunate enough
to obtain one that would produce more than 12 lbs.
per week, although I have  had a Yorkshire  cow
whicli  milked  seven gallons per day, yet never
made 5 lbs. of butter in one week.  On  the aver-
age,  three gallons of good milk will make 1 lb. of
butter.
               To breed pheasants.
  Eggs being provided, put them  under a hen that
has kept the nest three or four days: and if you set
twr or three hens on the same day, you  will have
the advantage of shifting the good eggs.   The hens
having set their full time, such of the young phea-
sants as are already hatched, put in a basket, with
a piece of flannel, till the hen has done  hatching.
The brood, now come, put under a frame Avith a
net over it, and a  piaoe for the hen, that she can-
not get to the young pheasants, but that  they may
go to her: and feed Ihem  with boiled egg cat
small, boiled  milk and bread, alum  curd, ants'
eggs, a little of each sort, and often.  After 2 or 3
days they  will be acquainted  with the call  of the
hen that hatched them, may have  their  liberty to
run on the grass-plat, or elsewhere, observing to
shift them wilh the sun and out of the cold Avinds;
they need  not have their liberty in the morning till
the sun is  up; and they must be :hut in with  the
hen in good time in the evening.  You  must  be
very careful  in order to guard against the distem-
per to which they are liable, in the choice of a sit-
uation for  breeding the birds up; where no poultry,
>>heasants, or turkeys,  he.  have  ever  been kept;
such as the warm side of a  field, orchard or plea-
sure ground, or garden, or even on a common, or
a good  green la le, under  circumstances of  this
kind; or by a svood side; but then it is proper for a
man to keep with them under a temporary hovel,
and to have tAvo or three dogs chained at a proper
distance,  with a lamp or tAvo at night.
  The birds going on as before mentioned, should
so continue till  September, or (if very early bredl, 
5,8
UNIVERSAL
RECEIPT BpOK.
 the middle of August.   Before they begin to shift
 the long feathers in the tail, they are to be shut up
 in the basset with the hen regularly every night.
 For such young pheasants as are chosen for breed-
 ing stock at home, and likewise to turn out in the
 following spring, provide a new piece of ground,
 large and roomy for two pens, where no pheasants
 he. have been kept, and there put the young birds
 in as they begin to shift their tails.  Such of them
 as are intended to be turned out at a future time,
 or in another place, put i.ito  one pen netted over,
 and leave their wings as they are; and those want-
 ed for breeding put into the other pen, cutting one
 wing of each bird.   The gold and  silver phea-
 sants pen earlier, or  they will  be  oft".   Cut the
 wing often; and ivhen  first penned  feed ?U  the
 young birds with barley-meal, dough, corn, plenty
 of green turnips, and alum curd, to make which,
 take new milk, as much as the young birds require,
 and boil it with a lump of alum, so as not to make
 the curd hard and tough, but  custardlike.
  A little of this curd twice a day, and ants' eggs
 after every time they haA'e had a sufficient quanti-
 ty of the other food.  If they do not eat heartily,
 give them some ants' eggs to create an appetite, but
 by no means in such abundance as to be consider-
 ed their food.
  Not more than four hens should  be allowed in
 the pens to  one  cock.  Never put  more eggs un-
 der a hen than she can well and closely cover; the
 eggs  being fresh and carefully  preserved.   Short
 broods to be joined and shifted to one hen; common
 hen pheasants in close pens, and with plenty of co-
 ver, will sometimes make their nests and hatch their
 own eggs: but they seldom succeed in rearing their
 brood, being so naturally shy; whence should this
 method be desired, they must be left entirely to
 themselves, as they feel alarm even in being looked
 at.  Eggs for setting are generally ready in April,
 Period of incubation the same in the pheasant as in
 the common Ii0-!. Pneasants, like the pea-fowl, will
 clear grounds of insects and reptiles, but will spoil
 all Avail-trees within  their reach, by pecking off
 everv bud and leaf.
  Strict  cleanliness to be observed, the meat not
 to be tainted with dung, and tne water to be pure
 and often renewed.  Food for grown pheasants,
 barley or wheat; generally the same as  for other
 poultry.  In  a cold spring, hemp seed, or other
 warming seeds, are comfortable, and will forward
 the breeding stock.
          To manage young chickens.
  The chickens first hatched,  are to be taken from
 the hen, lest she be tempted to leave her task un-
 finished.  They may be  secured  in a basket of
 wool or soft hay, and  kept in  a moderate  heat; if
 the weather be cold, near the fire.  They will require
 no food  for 24  hours, should it be necessary to
 keep  them  so long  from the hen.  The  whole
 brood  being hatched, place the hen under a coop
 abroad, upon a dry spot, and, if possible, not with-
 in reach of  another hen, since the chickens will
 mix, and the hens are  apt to maim and destroy
 those which  do not belong to them.  Nor should
 they  be placed near young fowls, which are  likely
 to crush them, being always eager for their small
 meat.
  The first  food should be split grits, afterwards
 tail wheat; all watery food, soaked bread, or pota-
 toes, being improper.  Eggs boiled hard, or curd
 chopped  small, is very  suitable  as first food.
Their water  should be pure,  and often renewed,
 and there are pans made in  such forms, that the
 chickens may drink without getting into the Avater,
 which, by wetting their  feet and feathers, numbs
and injures ihem; a basin  in the middle of a pan
of water will answer  the  end; the water  running
 round it.  There is no necessity for cooping the
 the brood beyond two or three days; but they may
 be  confined  as  occasion requires, or suffered to
 range, as the) are much benefited by the foraging
 of the hen.  They should not be let out too early
 in the  morning, whilst the  dew lies  upon  the
 ground, nor  be  suffered to range over wet grass,
 which is a common  and fatal cause  of disease  in
 fowls. Another  caution requisite is to guard them
 against unfavourable changes of the weather, parti-
 cularly if rainy.   Nearly all the diseases of fowls
 arise from cold moisture.
   For the period of the chickens quitting the hen,
 there is no general rule: when she begins to roost,
 if" sufficiently fonvard, they will follow her;  if
 otherwise,  they  should be  secured  in  a proper
 place, till the time arrives when  they are to asso-
 ciate with the other young poultry, since the larger
 are sure to overrun and drive from their food the
 younger broods.
      'To hatch c/iickens in the Egyptian mode.
   The mamals or ovens of Egypt are scarcely above
 nine feet  in  height, but they have an  extent  in
i length and breadth which renders them  remarka-
I ble,  and yet they are  more  so in  their internal
I structure.   The  centre of  the building is a veiy
 narrow  gallery,  usually about the width of  three
I foet, extending from one end of the building to the
| other,  the  height  of  which is from eight to nine
 feet; the structure for the most part of brick. The
 entrance into the oven is through the gallery, which
 commands the whole extent of it,  and facilitates
 the several operations  that are necessary to keep
 the eggs to the proper degree of heat.  The oven
 has a door, not very wide, and only as high as it
 is broad; this door, and many others in use in the
 mamals, are commonly no more than round holes.
   The gallery is a corridor; with this difference
 from our common corridors, which have only one
 row  of rooms, whereas that of the mamal has  al-
 ways two rows of them  on both sides; namely, one
 on the ground floor, and another above.  Every
 one upon the ground floor has one above, perfectly
 equal, both in length and breadth.  The rooms of
 each  row on the ground, floor, are all  equal,  in
 length, breadth,  and height.  Reaumur  observes,
 we know of no other rooms in the world, so low
 as these, being only three feet in height.   Their
 breadlh, which  is in  the same direction with the
 length of the gallery, is four or five feet; they are
 very narrow in proportion to their length, which
 is 12 or 15 feet.
   Every one  of these rooms has its door or round
 aperture, about a foot and a half in diameter, open-
 ing into the gallery, the hole being wide enough
 for a man to  creep through.   Ail the eggs  to be
 hatched are first  ranged in these rooms.  Four or
 five thousand eggs are put into each of them. These
 are the real ovens, so lhat the Avhole edifices, which
 is denominated a chicken oven, is an  assemblage
 of many ovens set together, side  by side, opposite
 and over each other; and in the course of the pro-
 cess  a part of the eggs  are warmed in the upper
 rooms, after having been previously in the lower.
   Forty or fifty thousand eggs are hatched at once,
 or another extends the number to eighty thousand.
 The eggs are spread on mats,  flocks or flax, in each
 room upon  the ground  floor, where they contract
 their first and general  warmth, during  a  certain
 number of days.
   The heat of the air in the inferior rooms, and
I consequently  that of the eggs, would rise to an ex-
 cessive degree, were the fire in  the gutter inces-
 santly kept u-p.   Tney  keep it up only an hour in
 the morning, and an hour at night, and they style
 these heatings the dinner and supper of the chick-
 ens:  lliey receive, however, two more meals, that
* 
RURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY.
359
 is, luncheon  and afternoon meal, the fire being
 lighted four times a day.
   On the day on  which they cease to light the
 fires, part of the eggs of each  inferior room are
 always conveyed into the room above.  The eggs
 had been too much heaped in the former, and it  is
 now time to extend and give them more room.
   The proper number of eggs from each inferior
 room having  been removed into the room above,
 all the apertures of the rooms  and of the gallery
 are closely and exactly stopped with bungs of tow,
 excepting,  perhaps, half  ihe  apertures  in  the
 arches or ceilings of the upper  rooms; which are
 left open in order to procure there a circulation of
 air.  This precaution  is  sufficient to  preserve in
 the ovens, for many days together, the temperature
 which has been obtained; which indeed would  be
 the case with ovens upon so considerable a scale in
 any country, more  especially one so hot as Egypt.
   Three hundred and eighty-six ovens are kept in
 Egypt annually, during four or six months, allow-
 ing more time than is necessary to hatch eight suc-
 cessive  broods of  chickens, ducks, and turkeys.
 making  on the whole yearly, three thousand and
 eighty-eight broods.  The number in each hatch-
 ing is not always equal, from the occasional diffi-
 culty of obtaining  a sufficient  number of eggs,
 which may be stated at a medium between the tAvo
 extremes of forty and eighty thousand to each oven.
   The overseer contracts to return, in a living brood,
 to his employer, two-thirds  of the number of eggs
 set in the ovens: all above being his own perquisite,
 in addition to his salary for the season, which is from
 30 to 40 crowns,  exclusive of his board.  Accord-
 ing to report, the crop  of poultry thus artificially
 raised in Egypt,  was seldom, if ever,  below that
 ratio, making the enormous annual amount of nine-
 ty-two million six hundred and forty thousand.
   The chickens are not sold from the stove by tale,
 hut by the bushel, or basket full!
         Excellent  substitute for candles.
   Procure meadow-rushes, such as they tie the
 hop shoots to the poles with.  Cut them when they
 have  attained their full  substance, but are still
 green.   The rush, at this age, consists of a body
 of pith, Avuh a green skin on it.  Cut off both ends
 of the rush, and leave the prime part, which, on an
 average,  may be about a foot and a half long. Then
 take oft'all the green skin ^xcept for about afifth part
 of the way round the pith.   Thus it is a piece of
 pith all but a little strip of skin in one  part all the
 way up, which is neeessary to hold the pith  to-
 gether.
   The rushes being thus  prepared,  the grease is
 melted, and put,  in a melted state, into something
 that is as long as the rushes are.   The  rushes are
 put into the grease; soaked in  it  sufficiently; then
 taken out and  laid  in a bit of bark, taken from  a
 young tree, so as not to be too large.  This bark is
 fixed up  against the wall by a couple of straps put
 round it; and there it hangs for the purpose of hold-
 ing the rushes.
   The rushes are carried about in the hand; but
 to sit  by, to work by, or to  go to bed by, they are
 fixed  in  stands  made for the purpose, some of
 whicli are high, to  stand on the ground, and some
 low  to stand  on  a  table.  These stands have an
 iron part something like a pair of pliers to hold the
 rush in, and the rush is shifted toward  from time
 to time, as it burns down to the thing that holds it.
   These rushes give a better light than a common
 smalt dip candle; and  ihey cost next  to nothing,
 though the labourer may, with them,  have as much
 light as he pleases.
              To cultivate mustard.
   A yard square of ground, sown  Avith common
mustard, the crop  oi which, ground for use in a
[ little  mustard-mill, as wanted, would save some
 money,  and  probably saA'e life.  The mustard
 would look brown, instead of yellow; but the for-
 mer colour is as good as the latter; and, as to the
 taste,  the real mustard has certainly a much better
 taste than that of the drugs and flour which go un-
 der the name of mustard.   Let  any one try it, and
 he will never use the drugs again.  The drugs, if
 taken  freely, leave a burning at the pit  of  the
 stomach, which the real mustard does not.
 To cure herrings, pilchards, mackerel, sprats, &c
   Reservoirs of any  size, vats, or casks, perfectlj
 water-tight, should be about half filled with brine,
 made  by dissolving about 28 parts ef solid salt in
 72 of fresh water.   The fish, as fresh  as possible,
 gutted or not, must be plunged into this fully-satu-
 rated  brine  in  such quantity as nearly to  fill  the
 reservoir; and, after remaining quite immersed foi
 five or  six days, they will be fit to be packed as
 usual, Avith  large grained  solid salt, and exported
 to the hottest climates.  As brine is always weak-
 est at  the upper part, in order to keep it of a uni-
 form  saturation, a wooden lattice-work frame, of
 such size as to be easily let into  the inside of  the
 reservoir, is sunk an inch or two  under the  surface
 of the brine, for the purpose of suspending upon il
 lumps of 1 or 2 pounds, or larger, of solid salt,
 which effectually saturates whatever moisture may
 exude from  the fish; and thus  the  brine will  be
 continued of  the utmost  strength, so long as any
 part of the  salt remains undissolved.   The solid-
 ity of the  lumps admits of their being  applied
 several times, or whenever the  reservoirs are re-
 plenished with fish; and the brine, although  repeat-
 edly used, does  not putrify; nor do the fish, if kept
 under the surface, ever become rancid.
   All  provisions are best preserved by this method,
 especially bacon, which, when thus cured, is not
 so liable  to  become  rusty, as when done  by the
 usual method of rubbing with salt.
               Portable ice-house.
   Take' an  iron-bound butt, or puncheon, and
 knock out the head; then  cut a very small  hole in
 the bottom, about the size of a wine-cork.  Place
 inside of it a wooden  tub,  shaped like a  churn,
 resting it upon two pieces of wood, Avhich are to
 raise it from touching the bottom.  Fill the space
 round the inner tub with pounded charcoal; and fit
 to the tub a cover,  with a convenient handle;  hav-
 ing inside one or two small hooks,  on which the
 bottles are to be hung, during the operation. Place
 on the lid a bag of  pounded charcoal, about 2 feet
 square;  and over all, place another cover, which
 must cover  the head of the outer cask.
   When the apparatus  is thus prepared, let it be
 placed in a cold cellar, and buried  in the earth
 above  four-fifths of its  height;  but,  though cold,
 the cellar must be dry; wet ground will not answer
 and a  sandy soil is the best.  Fill the inner tub, or
 nearly so,  with pounded  ice; or, if  prepared  in
 winter, Avith snow well pressed down, and  the ap-
 paratus will be complete.
   Whenever it is wished to make ices, take off the
 upper cove--, then the sack or bag of pounded char-
 coal, and suspend the vessel containing the liquid
 to be frozen to the hooks inside of the inner cover;
 then close up the whole as before, for half an hour,
 Avhen  the operation will be complete, provided
 care be taken to exclude external air.
       To produce ice for culinary pu-poses.
   Fill a gallon stone bottle Avith hot spring water,
 leaving a_iout a pint vacant,  and put in 2 oz. of re-
 fined nitre;  the  bottle must  then be stopped very
 close,  and let down into a deep Avell.  After 3 or
 four hours  it will be  completely frozen;  but  the
 bottle  must be broken to procure the ice.  If the
 bottle  is moved up aud down, so as to be sometimes 
360
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 in and sometimes out ot the water, the consequent
 evaporation will hasten the process.   The heating
 of the water assists  the  subsequent congelation;
 and experience has proved, that h it water in wfo-
 ter will  freeze more rapidly than cold water just
 drawn from a spring.
                  To make ice.
  The following is a simple and speedy method of
 congealing water:—
  Into a metal vase half filled Avith water,  pour
 vary gently an equal quantity of ether,  so that  no
 Mixture  may take place of the two liquids.   The
 vase is placed under the  receiver of an  air-pump,
 vhich is so fixed upon its support as to remain
 quite steady when the air  is pumped  out.
  At the first strokes of  the  piston,  the ether be-
 comes in a state of ebullition; it is evaporated to-
 tally in less than  a minute, and the water remains
 converted into ice.
         To procure ice from a powder:
  This is  made  by pulverizing  and drying the
 shivery fragments of porphyriiic trap, which will
 absorb one-fiflh of its own weight of water.   Two
 quarts of it, spread in a large dish, will, in a few
 minutes, in an exhausted  receiver, freeze half of
 three quarters of a pound of water, in  a cup of
 porous earthen ware. After each process its power
 will be restored by drying it before a fire, or in the
 sun; of course, ice may always be procured  from
 it in hot climates.  Experiments tried wilh oal-
 ineal, have produced equal results,
           To char peats al the moss.
  The best method of charring peats where  they
 are dug,  is—when the peats  are properly dried,
 wheel to the outside of the moss a single horse cart
 load of them. Level a spot of ground, about 7 feet
 in diameter, near to a drain,  and drive a stake of
 wood into the ground, about 5 feet long; roll some
 dry heather or pol (the  refuse of flax),  round the
 stake, and lay some also upon the  ground where
 the peats are to be placed; then set the peats upon
 and  all round the  stake, inclining  to the centre,
 with a little dry heather or pol between each  floor
 cf peal,  until near the top, or last course:  then
 they are laid in  a horizontal  direction; and the
 stack when finished,  is in  the  form of a bee-hive.
 The next operation is  to set the stack on  fire,
 vhich is  done at the bottom all round; the fire a\ ill
 soon run  up the post in the centre; and when the
heather or pol is  all consumed, the space forms a
 chimney, and occasions the stack to burn regularly.
 If the windward  side should  burn too  fast, apply
 some wet turf.  When the peats are  thought to be
 sufficiently burnt, which is easily known  from the
 appearance of the smoke,  apply wet  turf and Ava-
 ter from  the adjoining drain as fast as possible, un-
til the Avhole be extinguished:—the  charcoal  may
be removed upon  the following day.
         'To char peats for family use.
  When  charcoal is required  for cookery, or any
 other purpose in the family, take a duzen  oi  fit'' sen
peats, and  put them upon the top of the kitchen
fire, upon edge;  they will soon  draw up the coal
fire, and  become red in a short time.   After being
 turned about once or twice, and done with smoking,
they are charred, and may be removed to the stoves;
if more char is wanted,  put on another  simply of
J teats.  By following this plan, tlie k'.tcheu lire is
 :ept up,  and thus, Avith very little trouble,  a sup-
ply of ihe bist charred peat is obtained,  perfectly
free from smoke; and the  vapour by  no  means  so
 noxious as charcoal made from wood.   Peats char-
red in this way may be used  in a chafer, in any
room, or even in a  nursery, without any danger
 arising from  the vapour.  It would  also be found
 very fit for .the warming of beds; and much better
 ; than live coals, which are, in general, used foil of
 J sulphur, and smell all over the house.
 I   Peats charred in a grate, and applied to the pur-
 I pose of charcoal iiiinu-diately, without being ex-
 I tinguished, make the purest and best char, and
 j freest  of smoke.  When peats are charred  in a
  large quantity,  and extinguished, any part of the
 I peat that is not thoroughly burnt in tlie heart, will
  imbibe moisture; and, when used, will smoke, and
  have a  disagreeable  smell, \shich  would  at  once
  hinder  charred peat from being used in a gentle-
  man's family.
              To make a cheap fuel.
 !   Mix  coal, charcoal, or saw-dust, one part,  sand
  of any  kind,  two parts,  marl or clay, one part, in
  quantity as thoug'it  proper.   Make the mass  up
  wet, into balls of a convenient size; and when the
  fire is sufficiently strong, place these balls, accord-
  ing to its size, a little above the top bar; and lliey
  will produce  a heat considerably more intense than
  common fuel; and insure a saving of one half the
  quantity of coals.  A fire then made up, will re-
  quire no stirring, and will need no fresh  food for
  ten hours.
              To clean water casks.'
    Scour the  inside well out wilh Aiater and  sand,
  and afterwards,  apply a quantity of charcoal dust;
  another and better method is, to rinse them with
  a pretty strong solution of oil of vitriol and water,
  which  will entirely deprive them of their foulness.
                'J'o preserve  eggs.
    Apply%with a brush a solution of gum-arabic lo
  the shells,  or immerse the eggs therein,  let them
  dry, and afterwards pack them in dry charcoal dust.
  This  prevents their being affected  by any altera-
  tions of temperature.
                 Another method.
    Mix  together in a tub, or vessel, one bushel,
  Winchester measure, of quick  lime, thirty-two
  ounces  of  salt, eight ounces  of cream of tartar,
  Avith as rauch water as will reduce the composition
  to a sufficient consistence to float an egg.  Then
  put, and keep the eggs  therein, which will  pre-
  serve them perfectly sound for two years at least.
         A subjtitute for milk and cream.
    Beat  up  the whole of a fresh  egg, '.n a basin,
  and then pour boiling tea over it gradually, to pre-
  vent its curdling.  It is difficult from the taste to
  distinguish the composition  from rich cream.
                  To cure butter.
    Take two  parts of the  best common salt, one
  partof sugar, and one part of sall-petre; beat thein
  up and blend the whole together.   Take one ounce
  of this  composition, for every sixteen ounces of
  butter,  woik  it well into the mass, and close it up
  for use.
    Butter cured  this way, appears of a rich mar-
  rowy consistence, and fine colour, and never ac-
  quires  a brittle  hardness, nor tastes salt.  It will
  likewise keep good three years, only observing,
  that it must stand three weeks or a  month, before
  it  is used.
  To remove the turnip flavour from milk and butter
    Dissolve a little nitre  in  spring  water, which
  keep in a bottle, and  put  a  small  tea-cupful iutt
  eight gallons  of  milk, when  warm from the cow.
        To make butter, Dumbarton method.
    First scald the churn  with boiling  Mater to en-
  sure cleanliness, then, having put  in the cream,
  Avork it till the butter is separated from the milk,
  and put the  former  into a  clean  acs,i.1.   Next
  draw a corn sickle several times cross ways through
  it, for the purpose of extracting any hairs or su-
:  perfluities  which may adhere 11 il.   1 ,et the but-
|  ter be put into spring water during this operation;
I  which  will prevent ils turning soft; and Avhich will 
RURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY.
30!
clear  it  likewise  from  any remnants  of milk. |
Next  mix with  every stone of butter, ten ounces
of salt.   Incorporate it Avell, otherwise the butter
will not keep.  In May and June,  each  stone of '
butler will take  one ounce more of salt,  but after
the middle of August, one ounce less will .suffice.
When made, put it into a well-seasoned kit, and
shake a handful of salt on the top, which  will pre-
serve  it from mouldiiiess.  In this Avay  continue
to make and salt the butter, placing one make upon
the other, until the  kit  is full.  Observe that the
kit does not  leak, as the liquor oozing through
would occasion the  butter to spoil.
            To make Cheshire cheese.
  It is necessary in making the best cheese to put
in the new  milk  without skimming, and if any
overnight's  milk be  mixed Avith  it, it  must be
brought to the same natural warmth;  into this put
as much rennet as is just  sufficient to come to the
curd, and no more; for on this just proportion the
mildness of  the cheese is said  to depend, a piece
dried of the size of a worn sixpence,  and put into
a tea-cupful  of Avater Avith a little salt, about twelve
hours before it is wanted, is sufficient for 18 gal-
lons  of milk. The curd  is next broken down,
and, when separated  from the  Avhey, is put into a
theese vat, and pressed very dry; it is next broken
eery  small by squeezing it Avith the hands.  NeAV
curd  is mixed with about half its quantity of yes-
terday's, and which has been kept for that purpose.
 When the curds have been thus mixed, well press-
ed and closed with the hands in a cheese-vat, till
  ney  become one solid lump, it is put into a press
for four or five hours, then taken out of the cheese-
vat and turned, by means  of a cloth put  into  the
 same for this purpose, aod again put into the press
for the night.   It  is then taken out, well salted,
and put into the  press again till morning, Avhen it
 is taken out and laid upon a flag or  board till the
 salt  is  e,  ite melted, then it is wiped, put into a
 dry room, and  turned  every day, till it becomes
 dry enough  for the market.
           To correct damaged grain.
   Put the injured article into an oven, from which
 the bread has been jast drawn.   Spread it in a bed,
 of from three to four inches in thickness, and  stir
 it frequently with a shovel or rake, to facilitate the
 disengagement  of the vapour.  In ten  or fifteen
 minutes,  according to its humidity,  withdraw it;
 when perfectly cool and aired, it will be restored
 to its wholesome qualities.
                Another method.
   Musty grain,  totally unfit for use, and which can
 scarcely  be ground, may be  rendered  perfectly
 sweet and sound by simply immersing it in boiling
 water,  and  letting it remain till the water becomes
 cold. The quantity of water must be double that
 of the  corn to  be' purified.   The musty quality
 rarely penetrates through the  husk of the wheat;
 and  in the  very  worst cases, it does not extend
 lhrou«h the amylaceous matter which lies imme-
 diately under the skin.   In the hot water, all the
 decayed  or rotten grains swim on the surface, so
 that the remaining wheat is effectually cleaned from
 all impurities,  Avithout  any material loss.  It is
 afterwards  to be dried, stirring it  occasionally on
 the kiln.
   To improve new seconds flour of bad quality.
   Mix  common  carbonate of magnesia well, in
 proportions of from 20 to 40 grains to a pound ot
 flour; calcined  magnesia will improve the bread,
 but not nearlv to the same extent as the  carbonate.
 It will improve the colour of bread made trom new
 seconds flour, while it impairs the colour ol bread
 from fine old and new flour.
                To preserve flour.
   Attach a number of lofts to every mill,  so that
      2 V
 the flour, in place of being thrust into sacks, the
 moment it escapes from the friction of the stones,
 may be taken up by the machinery, and spread out
 to cool in the "most careful mr-iier.  The violent
 friction if the stores necessarily creates a  great
 heat and steam;  and if flour is thrust into sacks  in
 this state,  a  chemical  action will make it moist,
 soft, and clammy.
               To preserve wheat.
   Kiln dry it and put it in cubical cases of earthen-
 ware, glazed on the outside, and filled full aa pos-
 sible; cover  them by  a  piece of the same  ware
 made to fit close, and secured with a mixture of
 pitch, tar, and hemp clolh, til! the whole be  made
 air tight.  A case of this kind  might be  made
 which would hold four  bushels or a quarter of
 Avheat.
             To correct  moist flour.
   In preparing the dough, let one-third of the flour
 be kept unmixed, till the dough begins to rise,
 then add  a  litlle of the flour,  and  when it rises
 again, add a little  more,  and  so on for four or five
 hours, till the whole of the flour is used.  In this
 manner the mixture, which occasions a glistening
 appearance in the dough, will be taken up, and the
 bread, as is already mentioned, will be highly im-
 proved.
           To remove flies from rooms.
   Take half a  tea-spoonful of black pepper,  in
 powder, one tea-spoonful of brown sugar,  and one
 table-spoonful of cream; mix them well together,
 and place them  in the  room,  on  a plate where the
 flies are troublesome, and they will soon disappear.
             To make excellent breqd.
   Mix seven pounds of best  flour,  with  three
 pounds  of pared  boiled  potatoes.   Steam off the
 water, and leave them a few minutes on the fire,
 mash them fine, and'mix them  whilst quite warm
 in the flour, with a spoonful  or more of salt.  Put
■ a quart of  Avater, milk  warm,  with  three large
 spoonsful of yeast, gradually to  the  potatoes and
1 flour.  Work it well into a smooth dough, and let
I it.remain four hours before it is baked.
j To make bread with a very small quantity of yeast.
j  Put  one bushel of flour into the trough, mix
j three quarters of  a pint of warm water, and  one
I tea-spoonful of thick  yeast well together; pour a
I small quantity in  a hole made in the centre of  the
I flour large enough to contain two gr-'Jons of  water:
 J then stir with a stick, about two feet long, some
 of the flour, until it is as thick  as pudding  batter.
 j Strew  some of  the dry flour over it, and let it rest
 i for an hour, then pour about a quart more  ivater,
 ] and having stirred it as before, leave it for  two
 ] hours, and then add a gallon more of warm  water.
 j Stir in the flour again, and in about four hours
 I more,  mix up the dough, and cover it warm; in
 about four hours more you may put it in the oven,
 and as light bread will be obtained as though a pint
 | of yeast had been used.
 To prepare bread in tlie method  of the London
                     bakers.
 j   Sift a  sack of flour into  the kneading trough;
 add six  pounds of salt, and two pounds of alum,
 dissolve  them  separately in  a paleful  of water
 (cooled  to  90  degrees  Fahr.)  with two quarts of
 yeast.   Stir it  well, and strain  it through a cloth
 ,or sieve; afterwards  mix it with  the flour into a
 dough, next cover it up with cloths and shut down
 i the trough lie' close to retain  the heat.   In two
 hours  more, mix in another pailful of warm water
  Avith the sponge, and  again cover it up for two
 hours.   After this knead it for  more than an hour,
 with three  pailsful of warm water.  Return  the
 dough to the trough, sprinkle it with dry flour,  and
 in four hours'  time,  knead  it well  for about half
 an hour, when it will be fit to  mould into  loaves. 
362                         UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
          To prepare household bread.
  Mix four  ounces of salt, three quarts of Avater,
a pint of yeast, and a peck of seconds flour, in a
trough; Avhen properly fermented, knead and di-
vide it into loaves.  Sometime? a portion of rye-
meal, rice, flour, or boiled potatoes, are mixed
with  the flour previous to the kneading,  the two
former serve to bind the bread, the latter cause it
to be open and spongy.
To produce one-third more bread from a  given
               quantity of corn.
  Boil a bushel of the coarsest bran, in seven gal-
lons of water  for one hour, keep stirring it, that
it may not stick to the bottom, then pour it off
into a trough, or tub full of holes, over which lay
a coarse cloth or sieve.   On the top of the  whole
put  a Avooden cover, with a  Aveight sufficiently
heavy to press out the liquor from the bran, which
will sink to the bottom of the tub in a thick pulp.
This liquor will contain  the  essential oil of the
corn, and when kneaded in with a proper proper-
lion of flour, it will yield one-third more than the
same quantity would, made Avith water in the usual
way.
            To make French bread.
  Put a pint  of milk into three quarts of water.
In winter let it be scalding hot, but, in summer,
little more than milk-warm: put in salt sufficient.
Take a pint  and a half of good ale yeast, free from
bitterness, and lay it in a gallon of Avater the night
before.  Pour off the yeast into the milk and water,
and then break in rather more  than a quarter of a
pound of butter.  Work it well till il is dissolved;
then beat up tivo eggs in a basin, and ftir them in.
Mix about a peck and half of flour with the liquor,
and, in  winter, make the  dough pretty stiff,  but
more slack in summer; mix it Avell, and  the less
it is worked the better.  Stir the liquor into flour,
as for pie-crust, and after the dough is made,  co-
ver it with a cloth, and let it lie to rise, while the
oven is heating.   When the loaves have lain in a
quick oven about a quarter of an hour, turn them
on the other side for about a quarter of an hour
longer.  Then take them out, and chip them with
a knife, which will make them look  spongy, and
of a fine yellow, whereas rasping takes off this
fine colour, and renders their look less inviting.
       To make wholesome mixed bread.
  Take of rice 3 lbs.; boil it in a sufficient  quan-
tity of water till reduced  to a soft pulp, then rub
it with 6 lbs. of mealy potatoes, cooked by steam,
and, when well blended, add 6 lbs. of flour; make
the whole into a dough with water,  and  ferment
with yeast, in the usual manner.
             To make bran bread.
  To four pounds ol best household flour, put two
table-spoonsful of small beer yeast, and a half pint
of Avarm water;  let it stand  two hours in a warm
place.  Add half a pound of bran, and a tea-spoon-
ful of salt;  make the dough with  skim milk  or
warm water; cover it up, and let it stand an hour.
Put the loaves into warm dishes, and let them
stand 20 minutes before thev go into the oven.
                Another method.
  Mix with half a  peck  of flour, containing  the
whole of the bran,  a quarter  of a pint of small
beer yeast, and a quart of  lukewarm water;  stir it
well with a wooden spoon until it becomes a thick
batter, then  put a napkin  over  the dough, and set
it about three feet from the fire, until it rises well.
Add, if requisite, a little more warm water, strew
over it a table-spoonful of salt, and make the whole
into a stiff paste.  Put it to the lire,  and  when it
rises, again knead it intotthe dough.   If baked in
tins, the loaves will be improved.
             To make leaven bread.
   Take ab  ut two  pounds  of  dough of  the  last
l making, which has been raised by barm : keep it
 in a ivooden vessel, covered well with flour.  This
 will become leaven when sufficiently sour.  Work
 this quantity into a peck of flour with warm water.
 Cover the dough close with a cloth, or flannel, and
 keep it in a warm place; further mix it next morn-
 in Avith  tAvo or three  bushels of flour,  mixed  up
 with warm  water and a  little salt.  When  the
 dough is thoroughly made, cover it as before.   As
 soon as it rises, knead it  Avell into loaves.   Ob-
 serve in this process, that the more leaven is put to
 the flour, the  lighter the bread  will be, and  the
 fresher the leaven, the less sour it will taste.
    To make four quartern loaves for family use.
   Procure a peck of flour,  with which mix a hand-
 ful of salt to three quarts of water, and  add half a
I pirt of good fresh yeast.   Work  the whole well
I together, and set it to rise at a moderate distance
 from the fire, from two to  three hours.   Then  di-
| vide it into four equal parts, put it  into tins,  and
! send it to the baker's.
j   The London  bakers, to  give their flour a facti-
i tious whiteness,  boil alum in the water; but such
! means will not be resorted  to in any private  fa-
| mily.
              To make cheap bread.
   Take pumpkins, and boil them in Avater until it
 is quite thick, and, with the decoction mix flour so
 as to make dough.   This  makes  an  excellent
 bread.   The proportion is increased  at  least one
 fourth, and it keeps good a length of time.
                 Another method.
   Birkenmayer, a  brewer of Constance, has suc-
 ceeded in  manufacturing  bread from the farina-
 ceous residue of beer.   Ten pounds of this species
 of paste,  one pound of yeast, five pounds of ordi-
 nary meal, and a handful of salt, produce 12 pounds
 of black bread, both savoury and nourishing.
     To make bread of Iceland moss and flour.
   This vegetable may be used alone, or rith flour
 in the making of bread.  Boil seven pounds of li-
 chen meal in 100 pints of water; and  afterwards
 mix the same with 69 lbs.  of flour, and  when bak-
 ed, the product  will be 160 lbs. of good  house-
 hold bread.  Whereas, without this addition,  the
 flour would not produce more than 79 lbs. of bread.
 To prepare it, use 1 lb. of lichen meal in the form
 of paste, to about 3| lbs. of flour.
       To make bread on Mr Cobbet's plan.
    Suppose the quantity be a bushel of flour.   Put
 this flour into a  trough that people  have for the
 purpose, or, it may be in  a clean smooth  tub of
 any shape, if not too deep, and sufficiently  large.
 Make a pretty deep hole in the middle of this heap
 of flour.  Take (for a bushel) a pint of  good fresh
 yeast, mix it  and stir it well up in  a pint of
 soft water milk-warm. • Pour this into  the hole in
 the heap of flour.  Then take a spoon and work
 it round  the outside of this body  of moisture, so
 as to bring into it by degrees flour enough to make
 it form a thin batter, which must be stirred about
 well for a minute or two.  Then take  a handful
 of flour and  scatter it thinly over the head of  this
 batter, so as to  hide  it.   Then cover  the  whole
 over with a cloth to keep it warm; and  this cover-
 ing, as well  as the situation of the trough, as to
 distance from the fire, must depend on  the nature
 of the  place and state of the  weather, as to heat
 and cold.  When the batter has  risen  enough to
 make cracks in the flour, begin to form the whole
 mass into dough, thus: begin round the hole con-
 taining the batter,  working the flour  into the bat-
 ter, and pouring in as it  is wanted  to make  the
 flour mix  with the batter,  soft water, milk-warm,
 or milk.   Before beginning this, scatter the  salt
 over the heap, at the rate of half a pound to a bush-
 el of flour.  When the whole is sufficiently moist. 
RURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY.   .                    S63
rfnead it well.  This is a grand part of the busi-
ness; for, unless the dough  be well worked, there
will be little round lumps of flour in the loaves;
and besides the original batter, which is to give
fermentation to the whole, will not be duly mixed.
It must be rolled over, pressed  out, folded up, and
pressed out again, until it  be completely mixed,
and formed into a stiff and tough dough.      '
  When the  dough is made, it is to be formed into
« lump in  the  middle of ihe trough, and, with a
little dry  flour  thinly scattered jver it, covered
over again to be kept warm and  to ferment; and
in this state,  if all be done rightly, it will not have
to remain  more than about 15 or 20 minutes.
  The oven  should  be hot by  the time  lhat the
dough has remained in the lump about 20 minutes.
VVhen  both are ready, take out  the fire and wipe
the oven clean, and at  nearly the  same moment,
take the dough out upon  the  lid of the baking
Irough, or some proper place, cut it up into pieces
and make  it up  into loaves, kneading it again in
these separate parcels: shaking  a litlle flour over
ihe board, to prevent  the  dough  adhering to it.
The loaves should be put into.the oven as quickly
as possible after they are  formed; Avhen  in, the
oven lid or door should be fastened up veiy close-
ly; and, if all  be properly managed,  loaves, of
tbout the size of quartern loaves, will be sufficient-
ly baked in about 2 hours.   But they usually take
 lown the lid, and look at the bread, in order to see
 now it is going on.
        To detect adulteration in bread.
   Run into the  crumb of a loaf, one day old,  the
alade of a knife considerably heated; and if adul-
terated  with alum, it will show its unwholesome
adherences on the surface: and  it  may be further
detected by  the smell.   Bone-dust or plaster of
Paris may be discovered, by slicing the soft part
of a loaf thin, and soaking it in a large quantity
of water in an earthen vessel, placed over a slow
fire three or four hours.  Then having poured off
the water  and pap, the obnoxious  matter will be
found at the bottom.          .
        To preserve houses from vermin.
   Bugs, in particular, may readily be destroyed by
dissoiving^ialf a drachm of corrosive sublimate in
a quarter  of an ounce of spirit of salts, mixing it
with  one  quart of  spirit  of turpentine.  Shake
these well together, dip a brush  in it,  and wash
those places where bugs are supposed to  resort:
this will remove them to a  greater certainty than
any other mode now practised.
        MANAGEMENT OF BEES.

          To work bees in glass laves.
  To produce the finest virgin honey, without the
cruel practice of destroying the bees, and having
the opportunity of seeing  them at their labours, a
double-topped straw hive has been invented by Mr
John Molton, and is so constructed as to  support
four glasses; which may be removed with safety,
and the bees kept warmer and more secure than
in any  other hives.
  Hive a swarm in the lower part of the  hive in
the usual way.   The  board at the top must be
kept close by taking care  to secure the openings;
this is done by turning the top board by means of a
thumb screw, so that when  first hived, the  holes
of both, boards shall not  correspond, and  by thus
turning the  upper board, it will prevent the bees
from passing through, while hiving.  At night,
bring the hive into the bee house, or where  it  is
intended to stand; in about twc days afttr place on
tlie glasses, (which should be clean) over their re-
cective openiigs, and slop them round with mor-
 tar: after which, turn the board to admit the bees
 to ascend for the purpose  of working,  cover the
 glasses Avith the small uppu' hive, and do not look
 at them for a few days.   Indeed, nothing will then
 be necessary, but to ascertain when they are filled,
 which is knoAvn by the cell being sealed over, which
 may be expected in about 20 days after a swarm
 has been hived.
   When  the  honey is  to  be taken, and all the
 glasses removed, it will be requisite first to turn
 the board to exclude the  bees; then with a thin
 knife loosen  them  from the adapter; leave them
 thhs for about an hour;  then carry the glasses  in-
 verted a short distance from the hive into the shade;
 or raise the glasses with a  small wedge, and what
 few bees  remain will readily leave, and  return  to
 their original hive.  This, if effected early in the
 season, will afford the opportunity of immediately
 replacing the same, or another set of glasses to be
 again  fi led.
   Observe, if  wanted  at any time  to  take only
 one or tAvo of the glasses with honey, do not turn
 the board; as by so doing the combs are disunited,
 and the bees themselves will then empty the  re-
 maining glasses (although afterwards re-fill them,
 which might occasion a loss of time in the  best
 part of the season for working); to simplify which,
 only loosen such  glasses as are wished to be re-
 moved, with a thin knife,  set them  on a divider,
 and replace others in their stead.  The middle of
 a fine day is the best time to remove glasses.
   It will not be advisable to take  any honey from
 the hive after the end of July,  as the  remaining
 part of the season  might not prove  favourable to
 their  gathering enough  for their  winter support;
 therefore, it will be necessary, about this time, or
 early  in August, to remove all the  glasses and turn
 the board, to finally shut them up.
   Those glasses, only partly filled with combs,
 should be carefully set aside, to be placed on again
 the following April;  if, however, the  stock will
 require  feeding, leave one or more of  the glasses
 with honey for that purpose, whicli isSby far the
 best mode.
   Thus much for the swarm which is left ti.i the<
 following  April—the  time  to  commence  again
 working the glasses, as hives are now full of combs
 and brood,  should the  season  prove  favouraole,
 work the glasses twice or more, and equal success
 will attend every  subsequent corresponding year;
 but the first season a  swarm cannot be expected to
 fill the glasses more than once, wl.ich will produce
 8  pounds of the finest  honey.—This method of
 management will not prevent the bees from swarm-
 ing.
    The honey thus obtained, being fresh from the
 hive,  will be of the  finest quality, pure, perfectly
 free  from the young  brood, of  remarkably  fine
 fragrance, clear in coloui,  and very far  superior to
 any produced from common  hives; it may also be
 taken at pleasure without injury to the bees—espe-
 cially Avithout  being  obliged to  resort at any time
 to the painful and execrable process of smothering
 these industrious and valuable insects.
           To work bees in straw  hives.
    The double cottage straw hive will answer many
1 purposes in the keeping of bees,  as either a glass
 or a small straw hive may be worked on the top of
 it, Avhich gives it  an advantage over the common
 hive, although the method of mi oageinent is sim-
 ple, and the price  easy.
    Prepare this hive for a sAvarm by spreading mor-
 tar round the crown  of it, to carry the adapter to
 support a glass or small straAV  hive, as it may be
 worked with  either.   Hive the swarm as usual,
 taking care to  secure the opening  at  the top; aft"'"
i removing it to its appointed  place, let  the swan-= 
 364                           UNIVERSAL

 work for ten days; then clear the opening at top,
 and affix on either a glass or a small straw hive—
 the bees will then  ascend  for working.  Stop the
 upper hive round with  mortar to the adapter, and
 darken it Avith a common  hive; in the course of
 from fifteen to  twenty days examine it, and if full,
 take the honey as here directed:—pass a knife or
 wire  betAveen the adapter and small hive to sepa-
 rate the combs; after Avhich remove the small hive
 of honey on a divider (a brass plate about twelve
 inches square); it  will then be immediately neces-
 sary to place a  small hive on the adapter, or stop
 the opening till another hive is  to be ivorked.
 Carry the small hive now on the divider a short dis-
 tance away, or rather iinu a darkened room; invert
 it, and place over it a small empty hive of the same
 size;  keep  them  steady, and, by tapping round
 ihe bottom hive, the bees, in a few minutes, will
 ascend  to the  hive above; carry thein to  within
 about two yards of their original stock,  sfoiie them
 out, and they will enter again as usual.
           To work bees m a box hive.
  This elegant box hive consists of three divisions,
 and is so ingeniously constructed,  that the  finest
 honey may be taken without destroying the bees;
 work a glass hive on the top, arid inspect the whole
 of their curious and  interesting labours Avithout
 disturbing them.                ,
  When a swarm is placed in this hive, shut the
 slider of the adapter; tie a small cord round to se-
 cure the parts;  hive the swarm in the usual man-
 ner; at night bring it  into the bee-house, or place
 appointed; open the entrance at bottom and remove
 the cord; if a  glass hive is  worked  on the top,
 place it on the  same evening,  stop it round, then
 draw  back the  slider to clear the grate, leave it a
 few minutes, and the bees will ascend for working.
 Then raise the two upper divisions to  be able to
 remove the  bottom division, and by the compres-
 sion the bees are obliged to work in the glass hive,
 which should be darkened  with its proper cover,
 and left for a few days without being looked at; it
 will be necessary to replace the unemployed divi-
 sion at the bottom four or five days  previous to the
 removal of Ihe glass of honey:  in removing which
 shut the glider and leave it in this state for one
 hour; then follow those  plain directions laid down
 for  the removal of glass hives.
  If more honey is wanted  from this hive than the
glass affords, examine the divisions early in Sep-
 tember; if the  'hree are full,  viz. the two upper
 hives  of honey and the bottom of combs; and not
otherwise, proceed to remove the fillets of the top
division, and pass the brass divider between those
parts, where ft should remain for sn  hour; then
raise the division with a wedge, and draAV back the
 slider of the adapter to let the bees out, and when
clear, which will be in a few minutes, remove this
division and place the aaapter to the next division,
 and by withdrawing the divider it will fit  close
 down; when the combs of honey  are  taken out
 from this division, it should be replaced at tlie bot-
 tom;  consequently, every  year, or  once in two
 vears,'gives them, as  it were, a fresh division, or
 part ofa hive to rebuild in, which  keeps the bees
 constantly at work, and the combs in a  good state
 of preservation.
 To  work bees  in a hexagon box hive  and straw
                     hive.
  This box hive is admirably constructed with sli-
 der and  grating, having large glass Windows, and
 supporting a glass hive on the top, that, when well
 supplied with bees, it  affords the pleasing opportu-
 nity of viewing the progress of their labours, and
 exhibits  a very interesting  and beautiful appear-
 ance.
1ECEIPT  BOOK.

 I   To hive a sivarm, it is only necessary to shut the
 j slider over the grating, and then proceed  as before
  directed. (When a glass hive is to be worked, lol-
 i low the  instructions given with  the  superior hi x
 i hiv«>.)  This  hive is the best calculated to work
  bees from other hives, especially when they are in
 i a state of decay, particularly the common hive—it
  is effected merely by withdrawing the slider clear
  of the grate,  and placing Ihe common hive over it
  in the evening, taking care to stop the entrance of
  the former  witn mortar.   The bees ivill of course
  then enter at bottom, and when they have,, worked the
  bottom hive  nearly ful., which is ascertained by
  means of the  windows, carefully lift them up, and
  place under them another  hexagon  hive; conse-
  quently, this colony consists of three  hives,  and it
  will not be  safe to remove the upper hive, unless
  the bees have worked combs into the  bottom hive,
  which,  if effected at the end of the season, the
  common hive  may be safely taken with its contents.
 1        To work bees in the common hive.
    This hive being in siu:h general use in this coun*
  try for many years, requires but little observation,
  except on some essential points; which, to benefit
  the cultivator, ought to be attended to. First, care
  should  be taken  to have the hive made of  clean
  and' good straw,  and manufactured of  a suitable
  thickness.  Some hives  are so thin and loose, as
  to require many days of the most valuable time of
  the swarm to  render the  hive fit for their use.
    Secondly, a hive should be chosen in proportion
  to the size of  the swarm; and when a g^od hive  is
  obtained,  and  a swarm placed in it, Avhich should
  fill it to within a rim or  two of the bottom,  shel-
  ter it from cold winds and  rain; for, if once the
  wet penetrates a hive, it affects the combs, and the
  bees, getting a distaste for their home,  will  work
  very slowly, and often desert it altogether; where-
  as, if they have a hive to their  liking, leave  them
  unmolested,  and  they will  soon  furnish it Avith
  combs and honey.  It is not material in  what as-
  pect the stock stands, provided the sun shines on
  the hive once in the course of the day.  Well peo-
  pled hives, kept dry, will thrive in most situations.
    One of those fatal accidents to which this hive is
  subject, occurs, through covering it with a hackle or
  turf,  by which their great enemy, the  mouse,  is
  enticed, who will make a nest on the top, and ulti-
  mately eat its w-iy through the crown of the  hive,
  and destroy bbth  combs and bees.
    About August  the robbing commences by bees
  and wasps, which is but  little regarded; an im-
  portant benefit will  be derived by destroying the
  queen wasp, seen about  April, which is the mo-
  ther of thousands; much therefore depends on the
  preservation of those hives which are  to stand the
  winter.   To protect them, apply the guard invent-
  ed by Mr Espinasse, which is calculated to prove
  highly beneficial in its effects.
   In September,  attention shculd be directed to
  weigh the stocks;  none of those of less than  from
  15 to 20 lbs. in weight can  safely be  relied on to
  stand the winter, without feeding; and  stop all
  hives down to  the board with mortar.
              To establish an apiary.
   The best time  to establish  an apiary is  about
  February, as the  stocks have passed  through the
  winter in safety—the  combs are then empty  of
  brood, light of honey, and  the removal  safe and
  easy.   Stocks should be selected by  a competent
  judge, as the  weight alone cannot always be re-
  lied on; but such as weigh 12 lbs. and upwards—
  the number of bees  must also be observed, and
  that they  are  well combed to near the bottom—
  these may be  safely chosen.
   When they are brought home set them in the 
RURAL AND DOMESTIC  ECONOMY.
36b
hee-honse, being particularly careful to keep them
dry.  The next day, plaster the hive to the board,
leaving an entrance the size of the little finger.
  If this season has  passed, purchase the first and
early swarms; for late ones or casts are not worth
keeping, unless two or three have been united.
  To remove stocks, ihe evening is the best time;
the hive  should be  raised by wedges some hours
previous, unless the floor be also moveable  with
the hive—otherwise,  many bees  will remain on
the floor at the time, and prove very troublesome.
But when  the door  is moveable,  plaster  the  Live
with mortar to the board; pin a card pierced  with
holes before the entrance,  securing the hive to the
board firmly; in this way  it would travel ai-y dis-
tance.
  Swarms purchased should be brought home the
same  evening;  for  if delayed for a day  or  two,
tombs will be worked, and subject to be broken in
removing.
            To cultivate bee-flowers.
  Bees are most fond of those places where their
favourite flowers  are to be found;  .nerefore  bee-
keepers should  encourage  the  growth  of  such
shrubs and  flowers as are known to supply honey
and wax in the greatest abundance;  in most situa-
tions  bees do not fly far  for food, generally not
more  than half a mile; they may be observed to
return with  great precipitation to the hive when
rain orn. storm approaches. The following are the
most  favourable for pasturage, and those  which
blossom early are the most desirable:
      Shrubs, &c.             Flowers.
Sallow, or the gray wil-  Mignonette.
   low.                  Lemon  thyme.
Rosemary.              Garden and wild thyme.
llarberry-tree.           Borag-.
Gooseberry.              Winter savory.
Raspberry.               Hyssop.
Apricot  and all  other   Mustard.    "| wnen
   fruit-trees.            ITk'1'8'       Wfxfm
Lime-trees.              £abbagc.      fseed.
Furze.                   White clover. J
Broom.                  Scarlet and other beans
Heath.                    when in bloom.
   Mignonette,  borage, and  lemon thyme are the
principal, as thev continue very long in bloom, and
afford the  finest 'honey.  Rosemary is also a great
favourite,  but seldom"supplies much honey  in this
country,  unless the weather proves veiy hot and
dry when  it  is in blossom, yet it is worth  cultivat-
ing, especially in a southern bspect,  being one ^f
the principal aromatic plants from which  the  bees
in the neighbourhood  of Narbonne collect their
honey, which is  esteemed  the finest  in Europe.
Fields of beans, Avhite clover, and buck wheat, are
of great benefit.  Rivers or streams of water are
also very beneficial,' as bees make use of a great
deal of water.
                To swarm bees.
   Swarming depends on the increase of bees, and
a queen being ready to lead them.  Their  breed-
ing begins  sooner  or later, according to the for-
wardness  of the spring,  the fruitfulness  of the
queen, and the  populousness of the hive.   When
bees carry in farina or pellets on their thighs, it
denotes they have commenced  breeding,  Avhich
may be  as early as  February, and  not finish till
October; and when  their  numbers  are much in-
creased they show indications of  swarming, by
their clustering in great quantities below  the  rest-
foo- board.  They never rise but on a fine day, and
sometimes will settle, and  for some cause  return
to the stock,  probably for want ot  a queen being
with them.   Some Lives will cast three times, but
mostly only twice.   The  second  cast  may be ex-
pected within three or four davs, and never later
Ihan ten days after the first.   Should a stock over-
swarm itself it will perish, unless strengthened;
this may be ascertained by observing the quantity
cf bees afterwards seen to emer.   it is  necessary
in'the swarming season, from April to July, parti-
cularly in May and Jure, to observe the hives on
a fine day; in general the  bees issue forth about
noon—from 9 to 2 o'clock, or about 3 in the after-
noon.
                 To  hive bees.
  Bee keepers should  have spare hives by them,
prepared to hive the bees as soon as they are set-
tled: for should the sun shine hot upon the swarm
it may take another flight, and may poss'My be lost
entirely.   The manner of hiving  them  must be
regulated by the nature of the place on which they
settle.  The  custom of preparing  hives varies; a
clean new hive only requires the loose straw to be
rubbed off with a cloth: if any dressing be used,
fennel dipped in ale and sugar will best answer the
purpose.   Have ready a cloth whereon to place the
hive, and a wedge to raise it:  if the swarm should
settle on a branch,  shake the best part  of it into
the hive, place it on the cloth on the ground, and
continue to disturb the swarm where it settled, and
the hive being left underneath, they will all go in;
or cut the branch ofl, and  gently place* it in the
hive.  Should the bees settle on the ground, place
the hive over them; and though bees are  not apt to
sting at this time, the hiving should be performed
quietly.  Avoid  talking and  breathing on  them,
and if any of them  are crushed, they will  resent
it; therefore, to'prevent accident,  invariably use
the bee-dress, which  will give confidence.   All
swarms are to be sheltered and left  near to  where
they  settle till the evening; thence to be removed
very  gently to the appointed  place.
     To unite swarms, and reinforce stocks.
  It is essential when there  are weak swarms of
bees, that  they should be strengthened.  The idem,
so prevalent,  of the greatest number of hives pro-
ducing the most honey and wax, is erroneous; for
great part of the bees are necessarily employed in
rearing the young, and therefore foe number of
those who are occupied in collecting honey is no>
near so great as has been  imagined;  for every
iwarm,  the least as well  as the greatest, is pro
vided with a queen, equal in fecundity to the queen
of the larger stock, and as the brood she brings
continually demands the labour and  attendance of
nearly half the bees, this circumstance renders tlve
other moiety, from the smallness of their number,
unable to accumulate a large quantity of honey in
the short time it mostly abounds,  and  therefore
honey cannot be obtained in glass hives or other-
wise, but from a strongly-peopled hive.
  Hive the swarms or casts in the usual way, and
at about 8  o'clock the same evening spread a cloth
on the ground, near to the hive required to be re-
inforced; bring the new swarm, and strike it down
rather  hard,  flat  on the ground.   The  bees will
then  fall in a  cluster; quickly place over them the
stock to  be reinforced; in ten minutes they will
have united and become as one family, to be remov-
ed the same evening to its former situation.
  Or, each cast or swarm may be hived separately.
In the evening, turn the crown of the hive into a
pail, and set the other hive exactly over it; in the
morning, the bees from the bottom  hive will have
ascended.
  The system of ur.iting, so very important, is but
little practised, and has been overlooked by many
cultivators; but it  is absolutely necessary to have
the hives well peopled and  completely sheltered
from wet, which are the principal and main objects
to be particularly attended  to iu the art ot  bee
      1                           2 F2 
366
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 keeping;  and the advantages of  uniting swarms
 will be found particularly beneficial in working
 the glasses with the newly invented double-topped
 hives.
                  'To feed bees.
   With the  aid of feeding  it is perfectly easy to
 bring any hive of  bees through the winter; but to
 ensure the success of a very light stock, it is es-
 sential to keep it also very warm and dry.  Feed-
 ing is  absolutely necessary when more honey has
 been taken than the hive can afford, by means of
 small hives or glasses.   Such stocks as are intend-
 ed to be kept through the winter should weigh 20
 pounds or upAvards, at the end of September; but
 easts and  'ate swarms  seldom attain this weight,
 unless  two or more should have been united.  The
 composition for feeding consists of moist sugar and
 new beer, the proportion of one pound of sugar to
 a pint  of  beer, simmered to the consistency of
 treacle: to be inserted into the hives, by means of
 small  troughs,  at night,  and removed  the  next
 morning early.  Should a hive be very poor and
 weak, it is better to feed in larger quantities  each
 time.
                Another method.
   Have a thick wooden hoop about six inches deep,
 to set upon the board when  the hive is taken up,
 and set honey-combs, with the natural honey in
 them, or filled with sugar a little  moistened, and
 set the  hive upon it.  A piece of an  old hive will
 make a good hoop.  Old empty combs should be
 carefully kept covered up with a piece of thin linen
 or muslin, in a very clean  place  for feeding the
 bees.   Weak hives should be removed at a dis-
 tance from the rest, when tl.ey  must be fed; if
 near, the strong will rob them.  Remove them in
 the  following manner:—take up the board  with
 the hiA'e, tie a cloth firm over it, and with a hand-
 harroAV, carry it gently between two where it is in-
 tended  to be placed.  Troughs of pithy Avood, fil-
 led with moistened sugar or honey,  and thrust in
 at the aperture of the hive, is a good method of
 feeding.  Be  sure when raising a hive from the
 board, to fix it down again  with plaster lime.
' Be not hasty in concluding a hive is dead though
 the bees seem inactive.   Expose them at mid-day,
 turned  upon a white sheet, where the sun is most
 powerful, for half  an hour; then house them in a
 Avm-m place, where neither noise, bad smells, n6r
 light can annoy them.
  If wanted to purchase a hive, defer it  till May.
 Set careful persons to watch at several stalls vhat
 they may reckon, by watch time, every loaded nee
 that comes in  for 10 or 15 minutes.  That  which
 has most labourers should be the choice.  All the
 refuse honey, after draining the best in jars, should
 be kept in  a clean  place for feeding the bees.
        Improved mcc/une for feeding bees.
  Prepare  a board a litlle larger than the bottom
 of the hive, in the centre of which make an open-
 ing about 10 inches diameter; then form a  frame
 of h;Jf  inch deal,  to consist of four sides,  each
 about twelve inches by three inches; make the an-
 gles firm with small Avooden blocks, to which affix
 the before-mentioned board.  A door should then
 be made in a side  of the frame, sufficiently large
 to admit a deep plate, or small dish, to contain \'_ie
 food.  By the use  of this machine, the  bees are
 fed quietly, and protected from the  cold weather
 and the intrusion of other bees.  It is scarcely ne-
 cessary  to  observe further, that  the door of the
 machine should face such part of the  bee-house as
 bei«t suits convenience.   The dish of food  to be
 placed under  should be covered with a piece of
 thick paper the size of the  plate or dish, pierced
 in holes, through which  the bees will feed;  and a
 quantity of short  pieces of straw also put  into
 the dish will prevent the bees from daubing them.
 selves.  They should be fed at night, and the dish
 only taken away early on the following morning;
 to do this, the face and hands should be covered.
 The autumn and early partof the spring are times
 proper to examine  if any hives require feeding;
 but always commence before the stock is in abso-
 lute Avant of food, otherwise  the bees will  be so
 poor and weak as to be unable to come down.
                To manage hwtey.
   To  judge  of the  best honey, it should be of a
 bright  pale  colour, thick, and a little aromatic.
 To obtain it from  the combs in its pure state, it
 must be left to run  from them,  without pressing.
 The cofour  shows  whether it is fine or»inferior.
 Tf wanted to press some in the comb, choose the
 fairest  and  such "as have not been broken: wrap
 each comb in white paper, such as lines the blue
 cover of loaf sugar.  Set it  edgeways  as it stood
 in the hive, and it may be preserved many months.
 The combs  meant to be drained, must be cut in
 slices.  Lay them on a hair-search, supported  by
 a rack over the jar, in which the honey is to remain;
 for the less it is stirred after draining, it keeps the
 better.   Fill the jar to the brim, as  a little scum
 must be taken off when it ha3 settled.  A bladder,
 well washed  in lukewarm  water, ought to be laid
 over the double fold of  white paper wilh which it
 is covered.
   To take the honey without destroying the bees.,
   The  following easy method of taking th«nioney
 without destroying the bees, is generally practised
 in France.  In the dusk of the evening, when the
 bees are quietly lodged, approach the  hive, and
 turn it gently over.   Having  steadily  placed it  in
 a  small pit, previously dug to receive it, with its
 bottom upwards, cover it with  a clean new  hive,
 Avhich   has been properly  prepared,  with a few
 sticks across the inside of it, and rubbed Avith aro-
 matic herbs.  Having carefully adjusted the mouth
 of each hive to the other,  so  that no aperture re-
 mains  betiveen them, take a small stick, and beat
 gently round the sides of the  lower hive for about
 ten.minutes, or  a quarter of an hour, in which
 time the bees will  leave their cells  in the lower
 hive, ascend, and adhere to the upper one.  Then
 gently lift the neAv hive, with all its little tenants,
 and place it on  the stand from which the other
 hive was taken.  This should  be done some time
 in the week preceding  midsummer day, that the
 bees may have  time, before the summer  flowrs
 are faded, to  lay in  a new stock of honey, which
 tfow will not fail to do for their subsistence" through
 ivinter.
           To manage bees generally.
   The best situation for bees is to the north, with
 a range of hills wooded on the summit, and toward
 the base, enriched  with heather,  skirted to the
 east with  a  stream from the rocks.  To confine
 this rivulet, the bee-master should sow the sandy
 beech with the  seed  of furze, and cover it with a
 light surface of earth.  The  furze  would  soon
 vegetate;  and blooming, in the course of three
 years,  overpay his labour,  by providing the bees
 with pasture on soil otherwise barren, aud the mar-
 gin of the brook would  gradually rise to restrain
 its encroachment on fertile lands.  Suppose a white
 clover  field  to  the  south of the hills, and south
 from the field a large garden, where hardy winter
 greens have been allowed to flower, as early food
 tor the bees.   White mustard should also be so wn
 very early in  patches near the hive; but not nearer
 than one yard.  A few  dwarf floAvers may come
 within two feet, but tall grown  ones would assist
 insects  to get up.  To the west, it would be de-
 sirable to have a shrubbery, a  wood, a brooiuy
common, or heather moor. 
RURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY.
367
  The stations for the hives must be six yards
asunder, and never nearer than three yards. ' The
board on which they ardplaced ought to be of one
piece; or,  if joined, the under side of the joining
should be lined with a thinner board fixed closely
with wooden pins.  The edges of this  rounded
standard should project four inches all round from
the hive.  Place it on three wooden pillars sixteen
inches long, ten Inches above the ground, but  six
inches of its length  should be firmly  thrust into
the earth, in all its length  to be  sixteen inches.
The pillar in front should be an inch shorter than
the other two, and the three pillars should be with-
in twelve or fourteen  inches of the outer edge of
the board, to exclude rats and mice.  For the same
reason no tall-growing plant, no Avail,  nor any
means for ascent should, be  Avithin three  or four
feet of the hive.   In fine weather, the  entrance to
the hive must be four inches long, and an inch and
a half in depth.
  In the beginning of the fine season, when  the
bees can get food, or have  stores remaining,  the
bee-master has  nothing to  do  but to keep  the
ground about the hives clear from weeds, and from
whatever  might enable vermin  to climb  there.
Yet js arriving stock inclines very soon to swarm,
the hives must be frequently looked  after, from
eight in  the morning till  five in the afternoon.
The symptoms are generally thus:"*rhe little city
seemso»wded  with inhabitants___They are con-
tinualHpi motion during the day; and after work-
ing-timp, they make loud noises. The drones may
be seen flying about in the heat of the day, and the
working bees go with a reeling  motion and busy
hum.  When the  bees come regularly out of  the
hives, let no noise, no interruption  incommode
them: but if they fly longx as if  they Avere unset-
tled, some tinkling noise or the loud  report of a
gun, will make the fugitives repair to  the nearest
lodgings.  If there is an  empty hive Avith combs
and some  honey in it, they will readily go there.
If a new hive is used, remember to smooth it wed
within, and  singe off loose  straws.  Perpendicu-
lar sticks should never bi employed.   Four cross
sticks at equal distances will support the combs.
Old hives do veiy  well  for  late  swarms that  are
not to be preserved through  the winter; but box
hives are best  for  them, as the bees work fastest
there.  They are not, however, fit for  being kept
through the cold seasons.
  It is to be observed that great haste in forcing a
swarm into the hive may disperse  them.  Give
them time to settle undisturbed, though keep a i
steady eye on their motions: but  whenever they
gather into a cluster, lose no time in  placing  the
hive over them.   If  the sivarm rest on any thing
that can be brought to tlie gronnd, spread  a clean
linen cloth: lay two sticks on it,  tAvo feet asunder;
lay the body, on which the swarm have  fixed, gent-
ly on the sticks; covering it with the hive by a
motion the least perceptible; and taking care that
the edges of the hive rest upon the sticks.  Cover
hive and all with a cloth;  for the sun might allure
the bees to rise again.  When they have gone into
the hive, cover it with its own board, and carry it
cautiously to its station.   Bees are apt to leave
their hive even after they begin to work, so they
must be watched  till  evening, and throughout the
ensuing day.  Whenever they are sure to remain,
fix the°hive  to  its board  with a little  lime round
the edges; and  crown it with green sods to keep
out too great heat or rain.
  If a hive  divides  into two swarms, it is a sign
that each swarm has a queen.   Put each into old
hives or  boxes; but  they must  be kept separate.
If a cluster of bees about the size  of a small plum
are seen together, the queen will generally be found
I there.   Separate them, and with a drinking glass
 turned down, you may seize the queen.  Put her,
 a.id a score or two of her subjects into a box full
 of holes, large enough to admit air, and yet not to
 allow the bees to escape.  Feed her with honey
 combs,  and  keep  her in  reserve  in case of the
 death of a queen  in one  of the hives.  When a
 hive ceases to work, it is a sure sign the queen is
 no more.  Then the bee-master may wait an hour
 and not see a loaded bee enter the habitation. But
 if the spare queen be taken  late in the evening,
 wetting her Avings  to prevent her escape, and in-
 troduce her to the desponding society, they will
 receive  her gladly, and begin to work.
   If a hive  fights among" themsefres, be assured -
 there are two queens:  and they will destroy eaca
 othei, if one is not taken away to keep.
   When bees are to  swarm a second, or mor«
 times, they do not come out in clusters: but they
 make a  sound called bellings, Avhich may be heard,
 ceasing  for a little, and renewed again and again
 If there are different tones, it is certain there an
 several  young queens in the hive.   It is only bj
 putting  the ear close to it,  that the sound can hi
 heard distinctly.                   .
          To keep large hives for winter.
   They must not be more than three years old
 and well stocked Avith bees.  A hive for preserving
 should Aveigh fr6m thirty to forty pounds.   Place
 them in October where they are to remain, observ-
 ing the usual precautions against vermin, or winds;
 and giving them if possible  a distance  of six  or
 eight yards  asunder, lhat  they may not rob each
 other.  Set  the  hive  after sun-set.   Plaster  the
 edge firmly round with plaster lime, all except
 the  entrance.  Fit a  piece of hard  wood to the
 aperture; cut two holes a quarter of an inch square,
 and  fix the  board as a door with plaster lime.
 Cover the hive with drawn straw  tied together at
 the top; and fix it with straw  ropes around.  Cut
 the straw a  quarter of  an inch below the board,
 for a few lengths may conduct vermin into the tor-
 pid community.   Once in  four or five weeks raise
 the hive from the board after sun-set.  Scrape the
 board clean, and brush away dead bees.   Observe
 when turning them up if they move  their Avings;
 if net, bring them into a Avarmer situation, free from
 noise, and the light excluded.  Keep them there
 till the  extreme rigour of th.;  season is past, and
 then return  them  to their old situation after sun-
 set.
   Sunshine  In snow is  destructive to bees if they
 get out.  Put a platting of twigs across  the holes
 to give  air, and  yet confine  the inmates.  Never
 confine them more than eight or ten days, and ex-
 cept in  snow in  the sunshine, their own sagacity
 will direct when it is safe to go out.  It is abso-
 lutely necessary  for their health, to have leave for
 going in and out in tolerably mild weather.
  To manage bee-hives of Mr Thorley's construction.
   The  bottom part is an octangular bee box, made
 of deal boards,  about  an inch in thickness,  the
 cover of which is externally 17 inches in diameter,
 but internally only 15  inches, and iis height 10.
 In the middle of the cover of this  octangular  box
 is a hole, which  may be opened or shut at pleasure
 by means of a slider.  In  one of the pannels  is a
 pane of glass, covered With a wooden door.  The
 entrance  at th/3  bottom of the box is about thiee
 and a  half iuches broad, and half an inch high.
  Two slips of deal, about half an inch square cross
 each other in the centre of the box, and are fasten-
 ed to the pannel by  means of small  screAvs: to
 these slips  the  bee3 fasten their combs.  In this
 octangular box, the bees are hived, after swarming
 in the usual manner, and then suffered to continue
 till they have buill their combs, and  filled them 
308
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
with honey; which may be known by opening the
door, and viewing their Avorks through the glass
pane, or by the weight of the  hive.  When t'..e
bee-master finds his laborious  insects have filled
their habitation, he is to place a common bee-hive
of straAV, made either  flat on the top, or  in the
common form, on the octangular box, and drawing
out the  slider,  a communication will be opened
between the box and the straw hive; in consequence
of which the bees will  fill this hive also with the
product of their labours.
  When the straiv-hive  is well filled, the slider
may be  pushed in, and  the hivp  taken away, and
another placed in its  room, with the slider  drawn
out.   This new hive  will also be filled in the same
manner.
  Mr Thorley assured  the Society  of Arts, that
he had  taken three  successive hives, filled with
honey and wax, from a single hive during the same
summer; and that the food still  remaining in the
octangular box, was suflicie-t for the support of
the bees during the winter.  He says, that  if this
method  was pursued in every part of the kingdom,
instead  of the cruel  method  of destroying these
useful in-ects, he is persuaded, from  long experi-
ence, that wax would be collected in  such plenty,
that  candles made with it might be sold as cheap
as those of tallow are sold at present.
  Mr Thorley has also added another part to his
bee-hive, con'sisti..g of  a glass reservoir, 18  inches
hi"h, 8  inches in  diameter at the bottom,  ai.d in
the greatest part 13; this receiver has a hole at the
top, about one inch in diameter, through  which a
square piece of deal is extended in arly to the bot-
tom  of the vessel, having two cro3s bars, to which
the bees fasten their combs.  Into the other end
of this square piece is  screwed a piece of brass,
which serves  as a handle to the receiver or glsss
hive. When the bees have filled their straw hive,
which must have a hole in the centre, covered with
a piece  of tin, Mr Thorley places  the glass re-
ceiver upon the lop of the straw  hive, and  draws
out the  piece  of tin.  The bees, noAV finning their
habitation enlarged, pursue their labours wilh such
alacrity, .hat they fill their glass hive likewise with
their stores,  the whole progress of their  works.
£t will,  however,  be necessary to cover the glass
with an empty hive of straw, or at least  with a
cloth, lest  too  much light prevent their working.
In this way Mr Thorley, in a good season, has had
a glass hive filled  in thirty days, containing  38
pounds  of fine  honey.   When  the  glass is com-
pletely filled, slide a  tin plate between the hive or
box, so  as to co^er the passage, and iu half an hour
the glass may be  taken away with  safety.  The
few be^s that'reinain  will readily go to their com-
panions.
  Mr Thorley has added  a glass window  to his
straAV hives, in order to observe the progress of the
l>ees; and this contrivance is  useful, especially if
one hive is to be removed  whilst the season con-
tinues favourable for their collecting of honey; for,
when the combs are filled with honey, the cells are
sealed up,  and the bees forsake  them, and  reside
mostly in the hives in Avhich their works are chiefly
carried  on.  Observing also,  that the bees were
apt to extend their combs through the passarco of
communication into the upper hive, which render-
ed it necessary to divide the comb,  Avhen the up-
per hive Avas taken away, he puts in the passage a
v ire screen for netting, the meshes of which are
large enough for a loaded bee to pass easily through
them; and thus he prevents the junclon  of the
 combs from one box to tlie other, and consequently
 obviates  the necessity  of cutting  them,  and of
 spilling some honey, which.running  down among
 a crowd of bees, incommoded them much.
      To manage bees on Mr Cobbett's plan.
   The best hives are those made of clean, i.nblight-
 ed rye-straw.  A swarm should  always be put into
 a new hive, and the sticks should be new that are --
 put into the hive for the bees to work on; for, if
 the hive be old, it is not so Avholesome; and a thou-
 sand to one  but it contains the  embryos of moths
 and other insects injurious to bees.   Over the  hive
 itself there should be a cap of thatch, made also
 of clean rye-straw; and it should not only be  neAV
I when first put on the hive, but a new one should be
 made to supply the place of the former one every
 ihree or four mouths; for, when the straw begins
 to get rotten, as it  soon does,  insects breed in it,
 its smell is bad, and its effect on the bees is dan-
 gerous.
   The hives should be  placed on a bench, the legs
 of which  mice an.l  rats cannot creep  up.   T;i»
 round the legs is best.  But even this will not keep
 down ants, which are mortal enemies of bees.  To
 keep them away,  if they infest the hive^take a
 green  stick and twist  it round in the sh^iejt" a
 ring, to lay on  the ground,  round  the leg ofthe
 bench, and at a few inches from it; and cover this
 stick with tar.  This will keep away the ants.
   Besides the hive and its  cap, there shovH  be a
 sort of shed, with top, back, and ends, to*^ne ad-
 ditional protection in winter;  though, in sflfomer,
 hives may be kept too hot, and, in that case, the
 bees become sickly,  and  the produce light.   The
 situation of the hive is to face  the south-east; or,
 at any rate,  to be sheltered from the north and the
 Avest.  From the north always,  and from  the wesl
i in winter.  If it be a very dry season  in summer,
 it contributes greatly to the success ofthe bees, to
J place clear water near their home, in a thing  that
 they can conveniently  drink out of; for, if  they
 have to go a great  way for drink,  they have not
 much time for work.
   It is supposed, that bets live only a year; at any
 rate,  it is best never  to keep the same stall, or
j family, over two years, except it be Avanted to in-
, crease the number of  hives.   The swarm of this
 summer  should be ahvays taken iu the autumn of
 the next year.   It is whimsical to save the  bees
I when  the honey is  taken.   They must  be  fed;
j and, if saved, they will die of old  age before the
 next fall; and  though young ones will supply the
i place of the dead, this  is  nothing  like  a  good
, swarm put up during the summer.
j   A good stall of bees, that is to say, the produce
| of one, is always worth about two bushels of ijood
j wheat.   The cost is nothing to  the labourer. " He
 must he  a stupid countryman indeed, who cannot
 make a bee-hive; and a lazy one indeed, if he will
! not if  he can.   In  short,  there is nothing but caitj
! demanded; and there .are very few situations lit
| the country, especially in  the" south of England,
 where a labouring  man may not have half a dozen
' stalls of bees to take every year. The main things
i are to keep away insects, mice, and birds, and es-
 pecially  a  little bird called  the bee-bird; and to
, keep all  clean and  fresh as to the hives and cover-
 ings.   Never put a swarm  into an  old  hiA-e.  If
 Avasps, or hornets, annoy you, watch them home
 in the day time; and, in the night,  kill them by
 fire, or  by  boiling  water.   Fowls  should not gp
 where bees are, for they eat them. 
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
369
POTTERY.
      To manufacture English stone ware.
  Tobacco-pipe  clay  from Dorsetshire, is beaten
much in water: by this process, the finer parts of
the clay remain suspended in the water, while the
coarser sand and  other impurities fall to the bot-
tom.  The thick liquid, consisting of water and
the finer parts of  the clay, is further purified by
passing it through hair and lawn sieves of different
degrees  of fineness.  After this, the liquor is mix-
ed (in various proportions for various ware) with
another  liquor of the same density, and consisting
of flints calcined, ground, and suspended in water.
The mixture is then dried in a kiln; and being af-
terwards beaten to a proper  temper, it becomes fit
for being formed at the wheel  into dishes, plat<-.s,
bowls, &c.   When this ware is to be put into the
furnace  lo  be baked, the several pieces of it are
placed in  the  cases made of clay, called seggars,
Avhich are piled one upon another, in the dome of
the furnace: i fire is then lighted; when the ware
is brought lo a  proper temper,  which happens
in about 48 hours, it is glazed by common salt.
The  salt  is thrown  into  the furnace, through
holes in'the upper part of it, by the heat of which
il is instantly converted into a thick vapour; which,
circulating through the furnace, enters the seggar
through holes made in its side (the top being co-
vered to preA'ent the salt from falling on the ware),
and attaching itself to the  surface of the ware, it
forms that vitreous coat upon the surface, which is
called its glaze.
         To make yellow or queen's ware.
  This  is made of the same materials as the flint
ware; but the  proportion  in which the materials
are mixed is not the same, nor is the ware glazed
in the same way.  The flint ware is generally made
of 4 measures of liquid flint, and 18 of liquid clay;
the yellow ware has a greater proportion of clay in
it;  in some manufactories they  mix 20, and  in
others 24 measures of clay with 4 of flint.   The
proportion for both  sorts  of ware depends very
much upon the nature of the clay, which is very
variable even in the same pit.   Hence a previous
trial must  be  made of the quality of the clay, by
burning a kiln of the  ware.   If there be too much
flint mixed with the clay, the ware, when exposed
to the air after burning, is apt to crack; and if there
be too little, the ware will not receive the proper
glaze from the circulation of the salt vapour.
       To manufacture English porcelain.
  The iron-stone, which contains a portion of argil
and silex, is first roasted in a common biscuit kiln,
to facilitate its trituration, and to expel sulphur and
other volatile ingredients which it may contain.
A large earthen  crucible is constructed after the
exact model of an iron forge, a part of the bottom
of which is filled with charcoal  or cokes: these,
having been previously strewed with ore, and about
one-third part of lime, are raised  to an intense heat
by  a strong blast of air, introduced under the cokes
at the bottom.  By this heat the  ore is fused, and
the fluid iron drops through the fuel to the bottom:
then follows the  scoria, which floats upon the top
of the  fluid iron.  This latter scoria, or, as the
workmen call it, slag, is the material used  in the
manufacture ofthe china, and is  much impregnat-
ed  with iron, and of  a compact and  dense  struc-
ture.  The slag  is next let off, by a  hole through
the forge, into a clean earthen vessel, where  it
       2W
 cools.  This last vessel is then broken, in order to
 detach the slag from it, with hammers.   The sco-
 ria is next pounded into small pieces and ground in
 water, to the consistence  of a  fine paste, at the
 flint mills of the country.  This paste is then eva-
 porated  to  dryness,  on a slip kiln, well  known
 amongst potters.   Thus evaporated to dryness, it
 is used with the other ingredients in the following
 proportions, viz.
   Prepared iron stone, 3 cwt.—ground flint, 4 cwt.
 —ground Cornwall stone, 4 cwt.—Cornwall clay,
 4 cwt.—blue oxide of cobalt, 1. pound.
   These  having been mixed together with water
 by the slip-maker, are again evaporated  en  the
 slip kiln to the proper consistency for use.  The
 clay, thus prepared, is of course used in  the usual
 manner in the fabrication of the several kinds of
 vessels.
                 Black glazing.
   Take 8 parts of red lead, 3 parts of iron filings,
 3 parts of calcined copper,  and  2 parts  of zaffre.
 This, when  fused, will  produce a brown black;
 but if wanted a truer black colour, the proportion
 of zaffre must be increased.
           To make porcelain or china.
   Porcelain, or china, is a semi-vitrified  earthen
 ware, of an intermediate nature between commor.
 ware and glass.  Chinese porcelain is composed
 of tAvo ingredients, one of  which is a hard stone,
 called petunse, which is carefully ground to a very
 fine  powder; and  the other, called kaolin, is a
 white earthy substance, which is intimately mixed
 with the ground stone.  The former is ofthe sili-
 ceous, and the latter  of the  aluminous genus.
   Several compositions of mingled earth may field
 a true porcelain, by being  burnt, and the porce-
 lains of various countries differ in their mixtures.
 But  the principal  basis of any true  porcelain is
 that kind of clay which becomes white by  baking,
 and which, either by intermingled heterogeneous
 earth, or by particular additions, undergoes in the
 fire an incipient vitrification, in  which the true na-
 ture of porcelain consists.   Feldspar and gypsum,
 if added, may g'lA'e that property to infusible clay.
    When porcelain is to be  made, the clay is pro-
 perly selected, carefully washed from impurities,
 and again dried.  It  is then finely sifted, and most
 accurately mingled Avith quartz, ground  very fine;
 to which, then, is added some burnt and finely pul-
 verized gypsum.   This mass is Avorked with wa-
 ter to a paste, and  du'.y kneaded; it is usually suf-
 fered to li e in thi s state for years.  The vessels and
 other goods formed  of  this mass are first mode-
 rately burnt in earthen pots, to receive  a  certain
 degree of compactness, and to  be  ready for glaz-
 ing.  The glazing consists of an easily melted
 mixture  of some species of earths, as the petro-
 silex or chert, fragments of porcelain and gypsum,
 which, when fused together, produce a crystalline,
 or vitreous mass, Avhich, after cooling, is  very fine-
 ly ground, and suspended in a sufficient quantity of
 water.  Into this fluid the  rough ware is  dipped,
 by which the glazing matter is deposited uniform-
 ly on every  part  of it3 surface.  After  drying,
 each article is thoroughly baked or burned in the
 violent heat of the porcelain furnace.  It  is usual
 to decorate porcelain by paintings, for which pur-
 pose enamels or pastes, coloured by metallic ox-
I ides, are used, so easy of fusion as to run in a heat 
370
UNIVERSAL RhCEIPT BOOK.
  less intense than that in which the glazing of the
  ware melts.
               To make delft-ware.
 ,  This is a kind of pottery made of sand and clay,
  and but slightly baked, so that it resists  sudden
  applications of heat.   Articles made of this  are
  glazed with an enamel, composed of common salt,
  sand ground fine, oxide of lead, and oxide of tin.
  The use of the latter is to give opacity to the glaze.
               To make clana ware.
    The composition ofthe eastern or proper china-
  ware, according to accounts that have great marks
  of authenticity, is from two earths; one of  which
  is,  as  was before mentioned, vitrescent,  and is
  called petunse: the  other a refractoiy, or a pyrous
 earth, and called kaolin.
   The preparation of the petunse, or  aluminous
  ;arth, is by pounding the stone till it is  reduced to
 a very fine powder, and then washing  it over to
 bring it to the most  .mpalpable state, which is thus
 performed: After the stone is rendered as fine as it
 can be by pounding or grinding, the powder must
 be put  into a large tub full of water, and, being
 stirred about, the upper part of the Avater must be
 laded out into another  tub, by ivhieh means the
 finest particles of the powder Avill  be carried into
 it.  The water in the second tub must be then suf-
 fered to stand at rest till the powder be  subsided,
 and as much as can be laded off clear must be put
 back into the first tub, and there being again stir-
 red about, and loaded with a  fresh quantity of the
 most subtle part  of the powder,  must  be  laded
 again into the second tub as before, and  this must
 be repeated till none be left in the first tub but the
 grosser part of the  stone; which,  not being of a
 due fineness, must be again pounded, and treated
 as at first.   The  fine powder obtained  in the se-
 cond tub, must be then freed  from the water,  by
 lading off the clear part, and suffering  what re-
 mains to exhale, till the matter become of the con-
 sistence of soft clay, when it will be fit to be com-
 mixed with the kaolin for use.
   The kaolin, or mica,  is prepared in  the same
 manner by washing over, but some specimens are
 so fine, that there is uo occasion for tliis or any
 other purification.
   From these two mixed together, the clay or paste
 is formed; but it is said, that the proportion ofthe
 respective quantities is made to vary according  to
 the intended goodness of the ware, the best being
 made from  equal  quantities, and the worst from
 two of the kaolin to  one  ofthe petunse.
       To make Saxon or Dresden china.
   The Saxon  composition,  of which the  china-
 ware is  formed, is greatly similar  to lhat of the
 eastern.  In the place of Ihe petunse,  a stone  is
 used, which is improperly called  in  the German
 language, bleyspatt, or spar of lead.  It  is a stone
 of a very contrary nature, as spars are calcareous,
 and will, on calcining, become lime ; on  the other
 hand, this stone is of a vitreous nature,  though  it
 is said no fire will  fuse  it without some  mixture.
 This spar is of a very hard texture, and  of a light
 flesh colour, or pale whitish red.  It is  prepared
 by pounding and washing over, which may be done
 as above-directed, and it is then ready for com-
 pounding with the mica.   The mica is employed
 in the Saxon composition  for the other ingredients:
 and is likewise prepared  by grinding and washing
 3»er, when it is not in a perfect and pure  state; but
 when it is entirely clean, it may be tempered with
 the texture,  thoroughly broken, and it will  be of
 ihe consistence of soft clay.
  The two kinds of earth being prepared in the
state of a soft paste, they are to be incorporated
and blen-Jed into one mass, which is done by rol-
ling and  stirring them well  after they are in the
  same vessel, and then kneading them with the feet,
  till they are thoroughly united.   When the com-
  pound  mass is  formed, it is made into cakes, or
  square  pieces, and put by layers into cases of wood
  or stone, Avhich must be  placed in a moist situa-
  tion, and left  for two or three months; during
  which time a kind of putrid  ferment enters into
  the  mixture, by which the parts of the different
  matter  combine and  form a  substance with new
  qualities, unknown while  separate.  This change
  shows  itself  upon the  whole  mass  by a fetid
  smell, and a greenish  or  bluish colour, and a te-
  nacity  like  that  of  clay, or  the  argillaceous
  moistened earths.  If the time of keeping  the
  paste in this  condition be prolonged  to a year
I  or more, it will  further  improve  its qualities,
j  but  great care must  be taken  to prevent its
1  becoming  dry;  to  prevent   which,  there  may
I  be occasion  to  water it.   When,  however,  the
j  described qualities are found in the matter, it is fit
'  for use, and vessels,  &c. may be  wrought of it
  without any other preparation, the case below  ex-
  cepted.
           Composition of English china.
   The following composition will produce wares,
  which will possess the properties ofthe true china,
 if judiciously managed.
   Mix the best white sand, or calcined flints, fine-
 ly powdered, tAventy pounds, of very white pearl
 ashes five pounds, of perfect while calcined bones
 two pounds.  Temper the whole with  the guma
 arabic or Senegal, dissolved in  water.
   This requires a considerable force and continu-
 ance  of heat  to bring it to perfection, but it will be
 very  white and good when it  is properly treated,
 Where mica can be obtained,  it is preferable to
 calcined bones, and as it will form a kind of paste
 for working, a weaker gum-water will answer the
 purpose.
              To bake china ware.
  The furnace for this purpose may be construct-
 ed in the same manneras the potter's kilns usually
 are; and  Windsor bricks, Avith  mortar of Windsor
 loam, or Stourbridge clay, should be  employed in
 its fabrication.  Where they are not to be procured,
 use bricks and clay nearest in their qualities of re-
 sistance.   The size of the  furnace  should  be a©-
 cording  to the quantity of ware required  to  be
 baked; but it must not be too small, lest the body
 of fire may not be sufficient to produce the requi-
 site heat.
  The caffettes, or coffins, to contain the pieces
 when placed  in the furnace, are the most material
utensils.   They should be of Stourbridge, or othes
good  potter's clay, with a  third of sand, and are
generally made of a round form, with a flat bottom,
the rim  forming  the sides, being adapted ts tlie
height of the  pieces to be inclosed.
  The furnace and caffettes being  prepared; the
ware to be baked must be  sorted  in the caffettes
in the most advantageous manner as to room, and
as many caffettes must be set upon them as Ihe fui>-
nace will conveniently  contain, leaving  space foe
the free passage of the  fire  betwixt the piles: take
care to cover over the uppermost caffettes in each
pile, then close the mouth of the furnace, and raise
the fire so as  to heat the caffettes red hot in every
part, and keep them  red hot for twelve or fourteen
hours.  It  is then to be extinguished, and the fur-
nace left  to cool gradually; and when  little  or no
heat remains, the mouth may be opened, and the
pieces taken out ofthe caffettes; when  they will be
in a condition to receive  the  glazing,  or to be
painted wilh  such colours as are used under the
glaze.
             To make tobacco pipes.
  These  require a very fine, tenacious, and refrac 
POTTERY.
371
»*»ry clay, which is either naturally of a perfectly
■while colour, or, if it have somewhat  of a gray
cast, will necessarily burn Avhite.   A clay of this
kind must contain no  calcareous or ferruginous
earth, and must also be carefully deprived of any
sand it may contain by washing.  It ought to pos-
sess, besides,  the property of shrinking but little
in the fire.  If it should not prove sufficiently duc-
tile, it may be meliorated by the admixture of ano-
ther sort. Last of all, it is beaten, kneaded, ground,
washed, and sifted, till it acquires the requisite de-
gree of fineness and  ductility.  When, after this
preparation, the clay has obtained a due degree of
ductility, it is rolled out in small portions to the
usual length  of a pipe, perforated with  the Avire,
and put, together with the wire, into a brass mould,
rubbed over with oii, to give it  its external form;
after which it is fixed into a vice, and  the hollow
part of the head formed with a stopper.  The pipes,
thus brought into form, are cleared of the redun-
dant clay that adheres to  the seams, a rim or bor-
der is made round the head, they are then marked
with an iron stamp upon the heel, and the surfaces
smoothed and polished.   When  they are well
dried, they are put into boxes, and baked iu a fur-
nace.
               To make crucibles.
   Mr Charles Cameron, Glasgow, has published a
 description of a new method of forming crucibles.
 The Dutch have long enjoyed an almost exclusive
 monopoly in the manufacture ofthe small melting-
 pot, or clay crucible, used by the jeweller and sil-
 versmith. I  established  a "small manufactory of
 them, as follows:  for each of the different sizes of
 the crucibles, 1 formed  ten or twelve  dozen  of
 moulds of stucco, burnt and powdered in the usual
 manner.  For the first mould of eaeh size, I form-
 ed a piece of soft pipe clay into the shape of the
 intended crucible, and laid it Avith its mouth-down-
 wards on a flat surface, and enclosed it  with a cy-
 linder  of white iron, distant about half an inch
 from die angular points of the crucible, and about
 an inch  and a half higher  than its bottom: then
 mixing the stucco with water,  poured  it into the
 cylinder.  When the stuceo was sufficiently set, I
 removed the white-iron, picked out the clay, and
 dried the mould.   1 then squeezed soft clay into
 the mould, which, on standing a few minutes, easily
 came out again.   It was  inclosed  in the cylinder,
 and stucco poured round  it, which formed a second
 mould,  continuing to do so  until 1 had procured
 the number wanted.   They were then  all put into
 a stave,  and  completely  dried  ready for use.   In
 die preparation of the fire-clay for the  crucibles, 1
 followed precisely the same process used at the
 potteries, by mixing it with a very large quantity
 of water, and putting the whole through a No. 9
 silk searce.  On  allowing the whole to stand a tew
 hours,  the clay subsided,  and, in pouring off the
 dear water, I procured the clay or slip of the con-
 sistence of thick  eream.   On weighing a gallon ot
 it, I found the proportion of clay it contained, and
 added sand to the whole in the  proportion ot seven
 of sand to  seventeen of clay;T  then  stirred  and
 mixed  the whole completely,  when it was ready
 for use.  I next took my moulds, previously dried
 and arranged them in parallel rows on a table, and
 successively filled them with the prepared slip.  By
 tlie time I had filled four or five dozen, I returned
 to the one first filled, and began alternately to pour
 the slip out of them, leaving a small quantity un-
 noured  out, which subsided, and gave the requisite
 thickness to the  bottom.  In each of ^e moulds so
 filled, a crucible is completely formed  by the  ab-
 etractioi. of  the water of the slip, in contact with
 and adjoiningto, the porous substance of the stucco
 nwld: Tbi crucible will  be either  thicker  or
thinner in proportion to the time the slip has re-
mained in it.   Five or six dozen will not  require
more than fifteen minutes in being formed.  The
moulds with their contents are then removed to a,
stove, placed on their side, and built one above the
other.  In a short time, from the contraction of
the clay,  the crucibles easily part from the moulds,
and are  removed by introducing  the  finger into
them. The moulds are allowed to remain  in theii
situation  until  the water they had absorbed is com-
pletely evaporated, when they are again ready for
re-filling, and will last for years.  The crucibles
remain in the  stove until dry, after which they are
burned in a kiln in the usual manner.
              To make white glaze.
  Take 26 parts of glass, 7 do. litharge, 3 do. ni-
tre, 1$ do.  arsenic, $ do. blue calx;—either fritted
in a glass oven or not.
                To  make glaze.
  Take 93 parts of lead, 45 do. stone, 25 do. flint,
and 9 do. frit.
   To make china glaze Jor printing blue frit.
  Take 10 parts  of  glass, 2 do.  lead, and 3 or 3$
do. blue  calx, as required.
               To make white frit.
  Take 16 parts of glass, 5 do. lead, 1 do. arsenic,
2^ do. nitre.
  Take 11 parts of white frit to  the whole of blue
frit, and  grind them together.   Then  take of the
mica  frit, 8 parts of  the above, 5 do. flint, 13 do.
Cornish  stone, 23 do. lead, and 6 oz. common salt
         To make cream coloured glaze.
   Take 60 parts of Cornish stone,  20 do. flint, and
120 do. white lead.   Stained with 1 oz. of smalts,
as above.
             To form a yellow glaze.
   Take  2 parts of litharge, 2 do. tin-ash, and 1 do.
antimony.
             To prepare white glaze.
   Take 15 parts of Cornish stone, 10 do. flint glass,
 5 do. anica flint, 5 do. nitre, 5 do. borax, 1 do. com-
 mon  salt, and 1 do. sal soda; fritted in a glass oven.
Then add 2 parts frit, as above, to I do. white lead.
 Send to  mill to grind very fine, and stain with 7 oz.
 of blue  calx.
          To make  a mixture for glaze.
   Take  20 lbs. of white frit, 10  do. flint,  26 do.
 stone, 50 do. lead,  and 4 oz. of blue.
   To make a mixture of glaze for printing blue.
   Take 6 parts of white frit,  5 do. flint, L3 do.
 stone, 25 do.  lead, and 55 do. glass.
          To make a shining black glaze.
   Take 100 parts of lead, 18 do. flint, and 40 do,
 manganese.
          To  make a purple under glaze.
   Take ^ oz. of fluxed blue, I oz. manganese, 1 oi.
 red lead, and 1 oz. flint
         To prepare an orange sponge  dip.
   Take 1 quart of yellow slip, to I oz. zaffre.
         To prepare a brown under glaze.
   Take 8 oz. ot glass antimony, 16 oz. litharge, 3
 oz. manganese, and 4 drs. blue  calx.
            To prepare a china glaze.
    Take 42 parts of flint glass, 3 oz. blue calx.
 Stain.   16 oz. flint  glass, 1 do. red lead, 1 arsenic
 and  1 nitre.—White enamel.  Run down in glas
 oven; then send with the above stain  to the mill,
  8 parts  of white enamel, dry it and it will  be frt
  for use.  8 parts of the above mixture (stain^and
  white enamel), 6 do. dry flint, 14 do. Cornish stone
  24 do. white  stone, which, when sifted,  is fit  few
  use.
        To prepare a china glaze for flotts.
    Take 27 parts of flint, 15 do.  nitre, 4£ do. lime,
  3^ do. stain.   This run do».n in a glass oven, and,
  when sent to the mill, add 75 parts of  glass, 15 do
  lead, 10 do. white enamel; add 2 pailsful of lime, 
372
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
and, when it comes from the mill, add 135 parts
of lead.   Stain to the above, 10 parts of glass, and
5 oz. of blue.
            To prepare white enamel.
  Take 7 oz. of arsenic, 12 do. potash, 6 do. nitre,
5 do. glass, 2 do. flint, and 3 do. white lead.
            To prepare china glaze.
  Take 56 parts of stone, 46 do. borax, 18 do. glass,
15 do. flint, and 40 do. lead.
          To prepare green edge glaze.
  Take 20 parts of lead, 60 do.  stoae, 20 do. flint,
and 10 do. ground glass.
     To prepare materials for common  ware.
  Take 25 parts of flint, 60 do. store, 95 do. lead,
and 8 do. frit.
        To prepare glaze for green edge.
  Take 175 parts of lead, 100 do. stone, and 35 do.
Hint.
       To prepare fluxes for blue printing.
  Take 5 parts of blue calx, 5£ do. coak stone, 1$
do. glass, and 1 do. flint.
       To prepare flux for black printing.
  Take 7\ parts of flint glass,  <2\ do. red lead,  and
2 do. borax.
             To prepare red flux.
  Take 5 parts of lead, 1 oz. of borax, and  12 do.
of glass.
          To prepare black for printing.
  Take 1 part ot calcined copper, lj do. red flux.
Passed through the  enamel kiln,  1£ of calx, sent
to the mill for grinding.
            To prepare copper black.
  Take 1 lb. of calcined copper, pound fine,  and
put into the enamel  kiVi, and it will come out
black.   Then 1^ oz. of red flux, put through the
enamel kiln, second time; then 1 of the  above, and
1$ of flux, ground fine for use.
          To prepare red for printing.
  Take green copperas calcined to a fine powder,
wasfi it well 10 or  12 days, and  dry it; 1 of the
above to 6 of red flux.
            To prepare umber black.
  Take 5 oz. of umber, 2  do. borax, 1 do. blue
calx.   One of the above to 2 flux,  as  under; 7$
flint glass,  2J red lead, and 2 borax.
               To prepare black.
  Take 3 oz. of calcined umber, 1 do. borax;  run
down together.   This will  fine with gold.
       To prepare oil for black printing.
  Take half a pint of linseed oil, boiled Avell until
of a proper consistence, to which add a small quan-
tity of Barbadoes tar, prepared the same way.
                   Another.
  Take 1 quart of linseed-oil, 4 oz. flowers of sul-
phur, 4 oz. balsam of sulphur, 8 oz. black rosin.
         To form a cream  colour body.
  Take 2 cwt. blue clay, 1 do. black do. 3 qrs. flint,
and 1 qr. Cornish stone.
         To form another common body.
  Take 3 cwt. black clay, 2 do. brown do. 2 do.
blue do. 1 do. flint, 40 lbs. Cornish stone.
         To form a blue printing body.
  Take 2" parts black clay, 2 brown do.  4 blue do.
2 china do. 2 flint, and £ Cornish stone.
                   Another.
  Take 20 cwt blue  clay, 5 do. black do.  2$  do.
brown do. 2 do. china do. 2 do. flint, and \ da Cor-
nish stone.
             To make a chalk body.
  Take 3£ parts Moor clay, 3 do. raw pulverized
flint, 2 do. blue ball clay,  4 drs. smalt.—frit.—■
Flint 2 part, bone 3f, lime £, and potash £.
                   Another.
  Take 2 parts blue  clay, 2 do. china do. 3 do.
flint,  and l-»8th Cornis.i stone.—Frit.—10 parts
glass, IS do. stone, 5 do. flint, 3 do. borax.
              To form a cane body.
   Take 4 parts black marl, 2 do.  Cornish stone,
and 1 do. cream-coloured clay.
             To form a jasper body.
   Take 3 parts coke  stone, 2 do. Cornish do. 1J
do. blue clay, £ do. flint, and 1  dr. blue calx.
              To form a drab body.
   Take 2 parts blue clay,  1 do. China  do.  3 do.
composition, £ do. Bradwell wood  clay.
             'To form a pearl body.
   Take 6 parts  Cornish stone, 2 do. Derbyshire
clay, 1 do. flux.  Flux, 8 parts  glass, 2J do. red-
lead.
             To form a stone body.
   Take 2 parts blue clay,  2 do. china do. 4 do.
composition.
        To form an Egyptian black body.
   Take blue clay, 30 parts, black marl,  5 da cal-
cined car, 25 do. manganese, 2 do.
             'To form a china body.
   Take blue clay,  12 parts,  china do. 6 do. bone,
12 do. Cornisu stone, 12 do. flint, 6 do. flint glass
2 do.
       Common glazing for earthen ware.
   Take of white sand, 40 lbs.  red lead, 20 lbs.
pearl  ashes,  20 lbs. common salt, 12  lbs. Powder
the sand by grinding before it be mixed with the
other ingredients, and then grind them  together,
after which,  calcine  them  for some time with a
moderate heat, which must be less than will make
them  melt and run to glass; and when  the mix-
ture is cold, grind it to powder again, and, when
wanted, temper it with water, and it  will then be
fit for use.
   The proportions of these  ingredients may be
varied occasionally, for, where the  glazing can be
fluxed conveniently with a  very strong fire, the
quantity of sand may be increased to  60 or 70 lbs.
which not only renders the  glazing stronger, but
makes a saving in  the  expense.  The proportion
of pearl-ashes may likewise be diminished, or they
may be wholly omitted where the ware is designed
for very  coarse  purposes,  and  not for  domestic
uses, where  the lead is very improper, being ex-
tremely apt  to be corroded by acids, and to pro-
duce a very unwholesome substance.   On this ac-
count, where good manufactories are established,
the lead ought to be excluded from the composition
of the glazings, and other fluxes used in  its stead,
as in the following:
      Transparent glazing for earthenware.
  Take of white sand, 40 lbs. of pearl-ashes, 21 lbs.
and of common salt, 15 lbs.  Calcine, and proceed
as above.
   Where the expense is no object, this glazing may
be improved by adding one or two pounds of bo-
rax, and diminishing the pearl-ashes, in the pro-
portion  of six pounds for one pound  of borax ad-
ded, or ten pounds for two; in the latter  case, two
pounds of salt may be also kept out of the compo-
sition.  The reason for this change is, that if the
composition  contain so large a proportion of salt,
and the glazing be not fluxed for a long time  after
it is laid on the ware, it will be apt to be  dissolved
by boiling water, and peel off, if it be exposed to
the action of it for any long time.
                   Another.
  Take of sand, 40 lbs. of wood ashes,  perfectly
burnt, 50 lbs. of pearl-ashes, 10 lbs. of common
salt, 12 lbs.
  This will make an admirable glazing, where the
ashes are pure,  and a strong fire can be given to
flux it when laid on the Avare. It will be perfectly
free from the imperfection of the above, and will
be very hard and glossy, and where the expense
can be afforded,  it may be made  more yielding to 
POTTERY.
S73
tne fire by the addition of borax, in which case no
ftlleration need be made in the proportion of the
other ingredients.
Topr epare masticot used as the ground of glazing.
  Take of clean sand, one hundred Aveight; of so-
da, 44 lbs. and of pearl-ashes, 30 lbs.  Calcine the
mixture.
  This is the Dutch method, but the  soda not be-
ing employed  in this country, those who would use
masticot must increase the  quantity of pearl-ashes
in an equivalent proportion,  and therefore 70 lbs.
should be employed instead of  the 30.
           Masticot for white glazing.
  Take of masticot, prepared as in the preceding,
one  hundred pounds, calx of tin, 80 lbs. and of
common  salt, 10  lbs.  Calcine and  powder this
composition three several times.
  The calx  of tin is prepared  and sold under the
name of putty.  Its goodness consk s in its Avhite-
ness and purity; the first of whi|;h is easily knoAvn
by comparing it with a  specimen of any that is
known to be good.
              Another preparation.
  Take of mastic 10 lbs. red lead, 60 lbs. calcined
tin or putty, 20 lbs. and of  common salt, 10 lbs.
Mix them,  and calcine and  powder  the  mixture
several times.
                    Another.
   Take 2 lbs. of lead, and someAvhat more than 1
 lb. of tin.  Calcine the tAvo  metals till reduced to
a powder, by  the means used  by potters.  Then
 lake two parts  of these ashes, one  part  of white
 sand, calcined flints, or broken white  glass, and
 half a pint of common salt.   Mix well  together
 the  several ingredients, and set the matter to bake
 in a proper furnace, and urge it at length to  melt.
   The trouble  of calcining  the tin and lead may
 be saved here, as well as on the occasions above-
 mentioned,  by procuring them  already reduced to
 a proper state.
                    Another.
   Take 1| lbs.  of lead, and I lb. of tin.  Reduce
 them to the state of a calx,  and then take of the
 calcined matter, 8 parts, and of calcined flints and
 common salt,  each  4 parts.  Bring  the  mixture,
 by heat, to a state of fusion.
                    Anotlier.
   Take of lead, 3 parts, and of tin,  I part.  Cal-
 cine them, and  then take  of this matter, and of
 calcined flints,  and common  salt, each 2 parts.
 Fuse them as aboA'e.
                    Another.
   Take of lead, 4  lbs. tin,  1 lb. Calcine them,
 and  take of the matter, 8 parts, of calcined flints,.
 7 parts,  and of common salt, 4 parts.  Fuse them
 as the others.
         White glazing for copper vessels.
   Take of lead, 4 lbs., of tin, 1 lb., of flints,  4
 lbs., of common salt, 1 lb., and of Venetian  glass,
 I lb.  Melt the mixture, and it will  be lit for use.
                    Another.
   Take of lead, 4 lbs., and  of tin, 1 lb.   Calcine
 them, and  take of the matter, 12 parts, of  flints,
 14 parts, and of common fait, 8 parts.  Fuse them
 as the others.
             Very fine wlate glazing.
   Take of  lead, 2 parts, and of tin,  1 part.   Cal-
 cine them,  and take  of the  matter,  one  part, of
 flints and common salt, each  one part.  Fuse the
 mixture.
             Enamel for earthenware.
   Take of tin, any quantity, and enclose it in clay
 Or loam, and put it in a crucible.  Place the cru-
 cible in the fire, lhat the tin may calcine, and then
 break  it.  There will  be  a  pound ot calx very
 *-hjte, and  when it  is used to pain*, with, on  a
while ground, the colour will come forth and be
much whiter than that of the ground.
                Yellow glazing.
  Take of tin and antimony, each 2 lbs., of lead,
3 lbs., or, according to some, equal quantities of
all the three ingredients.  Calcine the whole, and
put them at last in fusion, that they may be vitri-
fied.  This glazing will run very soon, and be of
a fine yellow colour.
  The calcining the tin, lead, and antimony to-
gether, as here directed, would be a very tedious
operation.   The calcined tin, and red lead, should
therefore be used, and the antimony calcined alone.
But it is not to be understood that the  antimony
is to be calcined for this purpose to whiteness, or
the state of a perfect calx, which is not easily prac-
ticable without nitre, and, if effected, would ren-
der the antimony incapable of producing any other
colour than white.  The operation must therefore
be performed  with a slow fire, by roasting, as it
Avere, the antimony till it lose its metallic appear-
ance, and  become a greenish powder,  as is prac-
tised in making the glass of  antimony.
,                  Another.
  Take 5 parts of red  lead, 2 parts  of poAvdered
bark, 1 part of sand, 1 part of any of the preceding
white  glazings, and 2 parts of antimony.   This
mixture must  be calcined, and then fused, and it
will give a tine yellow glazing.
                   Another.
  Take 7 parts of the mixture of the calxes of tin
and lead, mentioned before in the recipe for pre-
paring tlie  masticot for a white  glazing.   Add 1
part of antimony, and fuse them together.
                   Another.
  Take 4 parts of white glass, 1 partof antimony,
3 parts of red lead, aud 1 part of iron scales. Fuse
the mixture.
                   Another.
  Take 16 parts of flints, 1 part of filings of iron,
and 24 parts of litharge.  Fuse the mixture.
            Lemon-coloured glazing.
  Take of red lead, 3 parts, of powdered bricks,
very red, 3 parts and  a half, and of antimony, 1
 part.  Calcine the mixture day and night for the
 space of 4 days,  in the  ash-hole of  a glass house
 furnace.  Urge it at last to fusion, and it will pro-
 duce a vei/ fine lemon-coloured glazing.
   The success of this operation depends greatly on
 the fineness of the colour of the  bricks that are
 poAvdered.  Those which are  of a fine red, and
 very brittle, are the best; but such as are grey will
 not at all  answer  the  end.  The same attention
 should be paid to this  matter, wherever bricks are
 used in these kinds of  preparations.
              Light yellow glazing..
   Take of red-lead, 4 parts, of antimony, 3 parts,
 of the mixture of the  caL.^s of  lead and tin, be-
 fore-mentioned in the  masticot for white glazing,
 8 parts, and of glass, 3 parts.
   When the red-lead and calx of tin are used, the
 proportion  of the ingredients will be, of red-lead,
  10 parts, of antimony  and glass, each 3 parts, and
  of calcined tin, 2 parts.
              Gold-coloured glazing.
   Take of  red lead, 3 parts, of antimony, 2 parts,
  and of saffron of Mars, 1 part.   Fu3e the mixture,
  and, having poAvdered the mass, melt it again, and
  repeat this operation  till the fourth  time, and a
  fine gold-coloured yellow will be produced.
   Any preparation of the  calcined iron may  be
  used in the place of the saffron  of Mars,  and the
  repeated fusions and levigations seem unnecessary.
                    Another.
   Take of red lead and white flints, each 12 parts
I  and  of tilinss of iron, 1 part.  Fuse them  twice.
            °                          c, n 
IECEIPT BOOK.
 374                          UNIVERSAL P

   This glazing Avill  be transparent   Care must
 therefore be taken what ground it be laid upon, or
 it will not answer the end of a yellow, but com-
 mne with that of the  ground;  and, indeed,  the
 body of colour is too weak  to produce any other
 than a faint yellowish cast even on a pure white
 ground.
    Green glazing to be  laid on a white ground.
   Take of calcined copper, 1 part, and 2 parts of
 any of the preceding yellow glazings.   Fuse them
 twice, but when the composition is used,  it must
 not  bt laid on too thick, for that would render the
 colour too deep.
              Fine green glazing.
   Take of the" Bohemian granite, 1  part, of filings
 of copper, 1 part, of red  lead, 1 part, and of Ve-
 netian glass, 1  part.   Fuse the whole, and it will
 afford a very fine green.  But the mixture may be
 used without being previously melted.
               Fine blue glazing.
   Take of red lead, 1  lb. powdered  flints, 2 lbs.
 common salt, 2 lbs. tartar, 1 lb.  Calcine till it be
 almost white.  White of Venetian glass, $ lb. and
 zaffre, £ lb.  Fuse the whole mixture, and quench
 the melted mass in water.   Repeat the same ope-
 ration several times.  The same proceeding must
 be adhered to  in  all the compositions where the
 lartar enters, otherwise  they would  be  too much
 eharged with salt, and the colour would not prove
 fine.   It is proper,  moreover, to calcine the mix-
 ture gently, day and night, for 48 hours, in a glass-
 house furnace.
                   Another.
   Take 1 lb. of tartar,  | of a  lb. of red lead, £ an
 oz. of zaffre,  and £ of a lb.  of powdered flints.
 Fuse the whole, and proceed in the manner stated
 above.
               Violet-blue glazing.
   Take  12 parts of tartar and an  equal quantity
 of flints and zaffre.  Proceed  as with the above.
                   Another.
   Take 4 oz. of tartar,  2 oz. of red lead, 5 oz. of
 powdered  flints, and £ a drachm  of magnesia.
 Proceed as Avith the above.
               Fine red glazing.
   Take'3 lbs. of antimony, 3 lbs. of red lead, and
 1 lb. of rust of iron.  Grind the whole as fine as
 possible, and then paint with it.
                   Another.
   Take 2 lbs. of antimony, 3 lbs. of red lead, and
 1  lb. of calcined saffron of  Mars.  Proceed as
 with the above.
                   Another.
   Take pieces  of white glass, and reduce them to
*an impalpable  powder.  Take afterwards, vitriol
 calcined to redness, or  rather the caput mortuum
 which is left after the distillation of the oil of vi-
 triol.  Edulcorate tho  calcined  vitriol, or caput
 mortuum,  by washing with  water to  free it from
 the salts, and then mix as much of it as there may
 be occasion for with the powdered glass.  By this
 means a very fine red will be  obtained, that  may
 be used for pain'ing; after which the work must be
 burnt.
 To prepare  varnish for pottery ware, free from
                     lead.
   Melt and keep in fusion, for 15 minutes, a mix-
 ture of an oz. of fire-stone and  pounded glass; 2
 drachm * of salt, half an oz. of pipe clay, and an
 oz. and  a  half of borax.  Varnish  the pots over
 with this matter, after they have been in the fire,
 and  put them again in it for about 18 hours.
            Varnish for earthenware.
   This varnish is made of equal parts of white-
 glass and soda, finely pulverized, carefully sifted,
 and  mixed.
          Chinese mode of glazing china.
   They take the finest pieces of the petunse aw?
 treat them as  before mentioned, by pounding and
I washing over; but extract  by repeated washings
j over the  very finest  part of the powder,  which
, keeps  so  moist wilh the water, thai the mixture
 forms  a liquid mass, which  they call  the  oil of
 petunse.   With this oil the)' rnix an equal weight
 of borax, they then slake a  quantity of quick lime,
 and form  layers of that  and dried furze;  which
 they set on fire.   When they have raised a large
 heap, after the first one is burnt to ashes; they col-
 lecrthem  and the lime, and form layers  of them
 again, with  a  fresh quantity of the furze,  which
I they burn  as before,  and they  repeat this five or
 six times.   They tlien put the ashes and lime into
 a vessel with water, adding some borax in the pro-
 portion of one pound to a hundred  weight of the
 ashes;  they r^xt  wash over the finer part of this
 mixture, and pour off at last all fluid from  the
 dregs, which they keep  together  with the solid
 part, washed over.  They mix this composition of
 lime,  ashes, and salts,  with the mixture  above
 mentioned, of  an equal quantity of the  oil of pe-
 tunse and borax, and this compound forms the mat-
 ter for glazing the ware.
   Instead of the petunse, the  spar of lead used in
 the Saxon  manufacture may be employed for form-
 ing a similar glazing, by treating it  in the same
 manner: and it is said, the glazing of the  Dresden
 china is actually made in  this way.
            English glazing for china.
   Take ofthe  finest white sand, or calcined flints,
 20 pounds; of red lead, 18 pounds; of pearl-ash, IU
 pounds; and of common salt,  decrepitated,  4
 pounds; levigate the sand or calcined flints and red
 lead well together; and afterwards mix them tho-
 roughly with the pearl-ash and  common salt, fuse
 the  componnd  in  the manner  directed for  the
 treatment  of glass,  till  it  be perfectly vitrified.
 Then, separate the fragments of the pot carefully
 from it, and reduce it in a flat agate, or porphyry
 mortar, to an impalpable  powder; finally temper it
 with water to the proper consistence for painting or
 glazing.
            Modification  ofthe above.
   When this glazing is used for embossed, or other
 fine ivoi-k, it should be mixed with a third of its
 weight of the spar of lead,  or other vitrescent
 earth, in lieu ofthe petunse, in the composition of
 the ware paste.  Take care that this earth is form-
 ed of the best  pieces  of spar, or other substance
 used: and that it is rendered to an extreme fine-,
i ness, by washing OA-er.  The design of this addi-
 tion is to weaken the fluxing powder of the glaze;
 which, if used alone,  would run the corners and
 edges of the smaller part, and  impair  the  sharp-
 ness and spirit  ofthe work.   It is necessary to pur-
 sue the  same method with pieces that are to be
j painted with more delicate designs; for the glaz-
 ing, melting otherwise again, in  the burning in
 cf the  colours, would  become too fluid,  and
 spread  them so as to take  away the  effect  of tlie
 fine touches.
              To glaze without lead.
   M. Westrumb,  a German chemist, in  conse-
 quence of  numerous  experiments, has published
 the  successful  result of several compositions, in
 which  not a particle of lead  is employed,  and
 which in his opinion  will prove an useful glazing
 for ordinary vessels.   First, 32 parts of sand; 11,
 15, or 20 pai\s of puri tied potash; and from 3 to 5
 parts of borax.   Second,  32 parts of glass (we sup-
 pose flint-glass), 16 parts of borax, and 3 parts ol
 pure potash.  Third,  150  parts of crystallized
 Glauber's  salt, with 8 parts of pulverized charcoal, 
POTTERY.
375
previously roasted, till  it has acquired a grey co-
lour; 16 parts of sand, and 8 parts of borax.
   Another method  of  glazing  without lead  has
oeen invented by a potter at Leipzig: it consists of
half a pound of saltpetre, half a pound of potash,
and 1 pound of common salt.   This composition is
not ve.y expensive, and is said to produce an ena-
mel not inferior to that prepared Avith lead.
To  apply  on every  kind of  hardware, colours
         wluch produce herborisations.
   Herborisations can  be of all colours; but  the
most agreeable is that called bistre, which is com-
posed in the following manner:—
   A pound of calcined manganese; 6  oz. of burnt
iron straw, or a  pound  of iron  ore; and 3 oz. of
flint-powder.
   The manganese and straw or iron  ore must be
pounded separately  in a mortar, after which  the
whole is calcined together in an earthen-pot. This
mixture, thus prepared, is all  pounded together,
and then mixed  in a small tub of water.
   The  blue,  green, and other colours  must  be
composed of the divers substances known lo  pro-
duce them, and  mixed, calcined, and  pounded in
the same manner as  for the bistres.
   To make the  application  of these various  co-
lours to the pieces, it is necessary, instead of di-
luting them with water, as is practised for ordinary
painting, to  make use of any kind  of  mordant.
The most advantageous, and which are  employed
with the greatest  success, are urine,  and the  es-
sence of tobacco.
   If the essence of tobacco is made use of, infuse
2 oz. of good tobacco in leaves, during 12 hours, in
a bottle of cold water, or very simply infuse the 2
oz. of tobacco in a bottle of hot Avater.
   The pieces of clay, after taking a little consist-
ency, are steeped in white or coloured worm-seed,
unt.l the bath puts  them in a state of moisture.
To  produce  herborisations, it will be sufficient,
whilst the worm-seed is still fresh, and at the mo-
ment when the piece is taken down from the tub,
to lay on slightly, and with a brush, one or several
drops of other colours:  each drop produces a tree
more or less  great, according as the workman  has
charged his brush  with colours.
To ornament all kinds of glass in imitation pf en-
                 graving, &c.
   The method heretofore known for engraving on
glass, has  been  by  means of a machine with
wheels, of  different  substances, which have been
employed with sand, &c.  to grind off some parts
ofthe surface ofthe  glass which is to  be engraved
on, and then  by means of grinding and polishing
different parts on the rough surface, the different
figures are formed according to the designs given.
By this  invention, instead of grinding  or taking off
any part of the surface of the glass, the patentee
lays on  an additional surface or coating of glass,
prepared for  the purpose, which, when subjected
to a proper degree of heat, will incorporate with
the glass to be operated upon, so as to produce an
effect similar to  that which has hitherto been ob-
tained by means of grinding.   When  it is requir-
ed to ornament glass, then, previously to the  heat
being applied, with an  etching or engraving tool,
such parts are to be taken out as will  produce the
required effect,  and  that in a much superior way
to the effect produced by the usual mode of grind-
ing, polishing, he.   The materials used are to be
melted in a crucible, or other  pot, and they are to
be made up in the same manner as if  used for the
making ofthe best flint glass,  broken  glass, or, as
it  is usually denominates, "cullitt," being  the
principal  ingredient  in  it   Several   mixtures
are "iven,  of which the  first is, 160 parts of cul-
 litt, 10 of pearl-ashes, 40 of red lead, and 10 of
 arrence.
  The second is, 120 parts of cullitt, 160 of red
 lead, 60 of sand, and 60 of borax.
  The third is, 70 parts of red lead, 22$ of sand,
 and 410 of calcined borax.
  When these are subjected to such a heat as to be
 thereby completely fused, take equal parts of each
 mixture, and grind them to an impalpable powder,
 for the purpose of being mixed with a menstruum
 proper for coating the glass.
  The menstruum  consists of one part of double
 refined loaf sugar, dissolved in two parts of pure
 water: to which is added, at the time of mixing the
 powder, about one-third part of  common writing
 ink—the effect, we are told, produced by this ad-
 dition  of  oxide  of manganese,  used in  a small
 quantity by the glass-makers, in making their best
flint-glass, because without such an addition the
 specimens would be of a cloudy  or milky appear-
ance.  A  quantity of this menstruum is used suffi-
cient to render the ground-mixture of a  proper
 consistence for laying on with a  thin smooth  sur-
face.  When the coating or mixture is thus pre-
 pared,  the glass is to be coated by means of a ca-
 mel's hair brush, or squirrel's foot, he.  It is then
 to be exposed to a heat sufficient to produce a semi-
 vitrifieation ofthe coaty surface, and to incorporate
 it with the substance or  body of glass so coated.
 But tlie heat  must not be carried higher than this,
 because,   in  that  case,  a complete  vitrification
 would  ensue, and  the  desired effect of having a
 surface in  imitation of the rough surface produced
 by grinding, would  not  be obtained: the article
 must, under such circumstances,  be re-coated, and
 submitted again to the fire.  If, after the coating
 has been  applied, any borders, cyphers, or other
 ornaments, are wanted to be executed thereon,
 then, previously to the heat being applied with an
 etching or engraving tool, such parts of the coated
 surface must be chased out, as will produce the de-
 sired effect, after which the  requisite degree of
 heat is to  be applied.
  This invention  is not only  applicable  to all
 kinds of useful and ornamental  articles of glass-
 ware, on which the common methods of engraving
 have been practised, but  may  be applied to win-
 dow glass and plate-glass of every description, in
 place of grinding, for the purpose of making win-
 dow-blinds.  It is also said to be peculiarly adapt-
 ed to produce beautiful specimens of art, for the
 windoAvs   oi  altar-pieces,  libraries,  museums,
 coach-windows, and for the glass  used in ornamen-
tal buildings of all descriptions.   This invention
has another advantage  over the common method,
by the  work wearing much cleaner than the work
of ground  glass; the  surface of which being frac-
tured by the action of the wheel, he. is  therefore
liable to gather dirt on the rough unpolished parts
of the borders, Sec.
           To make the Bologna  phial.
  The  Bologna, or philosophical phial, is a small
 vessel of glass, which has been  suddenly cooled,
open at the upper end, and rounded at the bottom.
 It is made  so  thick at the bottom, that it will bear
a smart blow  against a hard body, without break-
 ing; but if a little pebble, or piece of flint, is let fall
 into it, it immediately cracks, and the bottom falls
 into  pieces: but, unless the pebble or flint is large
 and  angular enough to  scratch  the surface of the
 glass, it will not break.
        To make Prince Rupert's drops.
  Prince Rupert's drops  are made by letting drops
 of melted  glass fall into  cold water; the drop as-
 sumes by  that means an  oval form with a tail oi
 neck resembling a retort. . They possess this sin- 
376
UNIVERSAL
RECEIPT BOOK.
gular property, that if a small  portion of the  tail
is broken off, the whole bursts  into powder, with
an explosion, and a considerable shock is commu-
nicated to the hand that grasps it.
      To break glass in any required way.
  Dip a piece of worsted thread in  spirits of tur-
pentine, wrap it round the glass in the direction
             To manufacture glass.
   Glass  is a combination of sand,  flint, spar, or
some other silicious substances,  with one or otlier
ofthe fixed alkalies, and in some cases with a me-
tallic oxide.  Of the alkalies,  soda is commonly
preferred;  and of the silicious  substances,  Avhite
sand is most in repute at present, as it requires no
preparation for coarse goods, while  mere washing
in water is sufficient for those of a finer quality.
The metallic oxide, usually employed, is litharge,
or some other preparation of lead, as being  the
cheapest metal.
  The silicious matter should be fused  in contact
with something called a flux. The substances pro-
per for this purpose are lead, borax, arsenic, nitre,
or any alkaline matter.   The lead  is used in  the
state of red lead; and the alkalies are soda, pearl-
ashes, sea-salt, and wood-ashes.  When red lead
is used  alone, it  gives the glass  a'yellow cast,
and  requires  the addition of nitre to correct it.
Arsenic, in the same manner, if used in excess, is
apt to render the  glass milky.  For a perfectly
transparent glass, the pearl-ashes are found  much
superior to lead;  perhaps better than any other
flux, except it be borax, which is too expensive to
be used, except for experiments,  or for the best
looking-glasses.
  The materials for making glass must first be re-
duced to powder, which is done in mortars or by
hjrse mills. After  sifting out the coarse parts, the
proper proportions  of si .ex and flux are mixed to-
ge'uier,  and put into the calcining  furnace, where
they are kept in a moderate heat for 5 or 6 hours,
being frequently stirred about during the process.
When taken out, the matter is called frit   Frit is
easily converted into glass by only pounding it,  and
vitrifying it in the melting pots ot the glass furnace;
but in making fine glass, it will sometimes require
a small  addition ot flux to the frit to correct  any
fault.  For, as the flux is the most expensive arti-
cle, the manufacturer will rather put too little at
first than otherwise, as  he can remedy this defect
in the melting pot.   The heat in the furnace must
be kept up until the glass is brought to a state of
perfect  fusion; and during this process any scum
which arises must  be removed  by ladles.   When
the  glass is perfectly  melted,  the glass-blowers
commence their operations.
   For the best flint-glass, 120 lbs.  of white sand,
60 lbs. of red lead, 40 lbs. of the best pearl aslies,
20 lbs. of nitre, and 5 oz. of magnesia;  if a pound
or two of arsenic be  added,  the composition will
fuse  much  quicker,  and with  a lower tempera-
ture.
   For a cheaper flint-glass,  take 120 lbs. of white
sand, 35 lbs. of pearl-ashes, 40 lbs. of red lead,
13 lbs.  of nitre,  6 lbs.  of arsenic,  and 4 oz.  of
magnesia.
required to be broken,  and then set fire  to the
thread,  or apply a red hot wire  round the glass,
and if it does not  immediately crack, throw cold
water on it while the wire  remains hot.  By this
means glass that is broken may often be fashioned
and rendered useful for a variety of purposes.
  This requires a long heating to make clear glass;
and  the  heat  should be brought on gradually,  or
the arsenic is in danger of subliming before the
fusion commences.  A still cheaper  composition
is made by omitting the arsenic in the foregoing,
and substituting common sea-salt.
  For the best German crystal glass, take 1201ns.
of calcined  flints  or white sand, the  best pearl-
ashes, 70 lbs.  saltpetre, 10 lbs. arsenic, ^ lb. and
5 oz.  of  magnesia. Or, a cheaper composition for
the same purpose is 120 lbs. of sand  or flints,  46
lbs. of pearl-ashes, 7 lbs. of nitre, 6 lbs. of arsenic,
and 5 oz. of magnesia.   This will require a long
continuance in the furnace; as do all others where
much of the arsenic is employed.
  For looking-glass plates, washed white sand, 60
lbs.  purified pearl-ashes, 25 lbs. nitre, 15 lbs. and
7 lbs.  of borax.  If properly managed, this glass
will be colourless.   But if it should  be tinged by
accident, a trifling quantity of arsenic, and an equal
quantity  of magnesia, will correct it;  an ounce of
each may be tried first, and the quantity increased
if necessary.
  The ingredients for the best crown-glass must
be prepared in the same manner as  for looking-
glasses, and  mixed in the  following proportions:
60 lbs. of white sand, 30 lbs. of pearl-ashes, and 15
lbs. of nitre,  1 lb. of borax, and half a pound of
arsenic.
  The composition  for  common green  window-
glass is,  120 lbs. of white sand, 30 lbs. of unpuri-
fied pearl-ashes, wood-ashes, well burnt and sifted,
60 lbs. common salt, 20 lbs. and 5 lbs. of arseuic.
  Common green bottle-glass is made from 200 lbs
of wood-ashes, and 100 lbs. of sand;  or 170 lbs.
of ashes, 100 lbs. of sand,  and 50 lbs.  of the* lava
of an iron furnace: these materials must  be well
mixed.
  The materials employed in the  manufactory of
glass pre bv  chemists reduced  to three classes,
namely,  alkalies, earths, and metallic oxides.
  The fixed alkalies may be employed indifferently;
but soda is preferred in this  cou-..Jry. The soda
of commerce is usually mixed Avith common salt,
and combined with carbonic acid.  It is proper to
purify it from both of these foreign bodies  before
using it.  This, hoAvever, is seldom done.
  The earths  are silica (the basis of flints), lime,
and sometimes a litlle alumina (the basis of clay).
Silica constitutes the basis of glass.  It is employ-
ed in  the slate  of fine sands or flints: and  some-
times, for making very fine glass, rock crystals are
employed.   When sand is used, it ought, if possi-
ble,  to be perfectly Avhite, for Avhen  it is coloured
with  metallic  oxides, t!.e transparency of the-glass
is injured.   Such sanil can only be employed  foi
very  coarse glasses.  It is necessary to free the sand
from all the  loose  earthy particles  with which it
GLASS. 
GLj
 may be  mixed, which is don'; bv washing it well
 with water.
   Lime  renders glass less brittle, and enables it to
 withstand better the action of the atmosphere.   It
 ought  in no  case to exceed the 20th part of the
 silica  employed,  otherwise  it corrodes the glass
 pots.  This indeed may be prevented by throwing
 a little clay into the melted glass; but in that case
 a green glass  only is obtained.
   The metallic oxides employed are the red oxide
 of lead or litharge, and the white oxide of arsenic.
 The red oxide of lead, when added in  sufficient
 quantity, enters into fusion with silica, and forms
 a miiky  hue like the dial plate of a watch. When
 any combustible body is present, it is usual in some
 manufactories to add a little white oxide of arsenic.
 This supplying oxygen, the combustible is burnt,
 and  flies off,  while the  revived  arsenic is at the
 same time volatilized.
   There are several ninds of glass adapted to dif-
 ferent uses.    The best and most beautiful  are the
 flint and the plate-glass.  These, when well made,
 are perfectly transparent and colourless, heavy and
 brilliant. They are composed of fixed alkali, pure
 silicious sand, calcined flints,  and litharge, in dif-
 ferent  proporti ins. The flint glass contains a large
 quantity of oxide  of lead,  which by certain pro-
 cesses is easily separated. 7Tie plate-glass is pour-
 ed in the melted  state upon a table covered with
 copper.  The plate is cast half an inch thick, or
 more,  and is ground down to a proper degree of
 thinness, and  then polished.
   Crown-glass,  that  used  for windows, is made
 without lead,  chiefly of fixed alkali fused with sili-
 cious sand, to which is added some black oxide of
 manganese, which is apt to give the glass a tinge
 of purple.
   Bottle-glass is the coarsest and  cheapest kind:
 into this little or no fixed alkali enters the compo-
 sition.  It consists of alkaline earth combined with
 alumina  and silica.'  In this country it is composed
 of sand and th; refuse  of the  soap-boiler, which
 consists ofthe lime employed in rendering this al-
 kali  caustic, and of the earthy matters, Avith which
 the alkali was contaminated.   The most fusible is
 flint-glass, and the least fusible is bottle-glass.
   Flint-glass  melts at  the  temperature  of 10°
 Wedgewood,  crown-glass at 30°, and  bottle-glass
 at 47°.   The  specific gravity varies between 2.4?
 and  3.38.
      Glass for looking-glass plates, No. 1.
   Take of Avhite sand, cleansed,  sixty pounds, of
 purified  pearl-ashes,  twenty-five pounds, of salt-
 petre, fifteen pounds, and of borax, seven pounds.
   This composition should be continued  long in
 the fire,  which should be for some time strong, and
 afterwards more moderate, that the glass may be
 entirely free from bubbles before it be worked. It
 will  be entirely clear of all colour,  unless in case
 of some  accident:  but  if any yellow tinge  should,
 nevertheless,  unfortunately infect it, there is no
 remedy,  except by adding a small  proportion  of
 magnesia, which should be mixed with an equal
 quantity  of arsenic, and  after their being put into
 Ihe glass, giving it a considerable heat again, and
 then suffering it  to free itself from bubbles in a
 more moderate one,  as before.  If the tinge be
 slight, an ounce of magnesia may be first tried, and
 if that prove insufficient, the quantity must be in-
creased,  but the glass will always be obscure in pro-
portion to the quantity that is admitted.
          Looking-glass plates, No. 2.
  Take of the white sand, 60 lbs. of pearl-ashes,
flO lbs. of common salt, 10 lbs. of nitre, 7 lbs. and
of borax, 1 lb.
  This glass will run with as little heat as the for-
      2X
ASS.                                       377

|  mer, but it Avill be more brittle, and refract the
i  rays of light in a greater degree.
        Crown or best window glass, No. 1.
   Take of white  sand  sixty pounds, of purified
  pearl  ashes  thirty pounds,  of saltpetre fifteen
  pounds, of borax one pound, and of arsenic half a
  pound.
   This will  be very clear and colourless, if the
  ingredients be good, and will not be very dear.  It
  will run with a moderate heat; but if it he desired
  to be yet more fusible and soft, half a pound or a
  pound more of arsenic may be added.
   It the glass should prove yelloiv, the magnesia
  must be used as  above directed for the looking-
  glass.
       Cheaper kind of window glass, No. 2.
   Take of white sand sixty pounds, of uupurified
  pearl ashes twenty-five pounds, of common salt ten-
  pounds, of nitre five pounds, of arsenic two pounds,
  and of magnesia one ounce and a half.
   This will be inferior to the above kind, but may
  be  improved, where desired, by  purifying tlie
  pearl-ashes.
       Common or green window glass, No. 3.
   Take of Avhite sand sixty pounds, of unpurified
  pearl-ashes thirty  pounds, of common salt teu
  pounds, of arsenic two pounds, and of magnesia
  2 oz.
   This is a cheap composition, and will not appear
  too green, nor be very deficient in  transparency.
       Common or green window glais, No. 4.
   Take of the  cheapest kind  of white  sand, one
  hundred and twenty pounds, of unpurified pearl-
  ashes, thirty pounds, of wood-ashes, well  burnt
  and  sifted, 60  pounds, of common  salt twenty
  pounds, and of arsenic five pounds.
   This composition is  very cheap, and will pro-
  duce a good glass with a greenish cast
             Best phial glass, No.  1.
   Take of Avhite  sand  one  hundred  and twenty
j  pounds, of unpurified pearl ashes fifty pounds, of
!  common salt ten  pounds, of arsenic five pounds,
  and of magnesia five ounces.
   This will be a very good glass for the  purpose,
  and will work with a moderate heat, but requires
  time to become clear,  on account of the proportion
  of arsenic; when, however, it is once in good con-
  dition, it will come very near to the crystal glass.
   Cheapest green or common phial glass, No. 2.
   Tako of the  cheapest kind  of white  sand, one
  hundred and  tAventy pounds;  of wood ashes, well
I  burnt  and sifted,  eighty pounds;  of pearl-ashes,
I  twenty pounds; of common  salt,  fifteen pounds;
i  of arsenic one pound.
   This will be green, but tolerably transparent,
  and will work  with a moderate  fire, and vitrify
I  quickly with a strong one.
              Green or bottle glass.
   Take of wood-ashes two  hundred pounds, and
  of sand one hundred pounds.  Mix them thorough-
  ly well by grinding together.
   This is the due  proportion  where the sand  is
!  good,  and the  wood-ashes are Used without any
|  other addition.
       The same, with the addition of scoria.
!   Take of wood-ashes one hundred and seA'enty
i  pounds; of sand one hundred pounds; and of sco-
!  ria, or clinkers, fifty pounds.   Mix the whole Avell
  by grinding them together.
   The clinkers should be well ground before they
  be used, if they admit of it; but frequently ihey
  are too hard,  and in that case they should be bro-
  ken into as small bits as can be done conveniently,
  and  mixed with  the other matter without any
  grinding.   The harder they are, the less material
  will be the poAvdering of them  as thev will the
             V                     2 G2 
ECEIPT BOOK.
      378                          UNIVERSAL Rl

      sooner melt of themselves in the furnace, and con-
      sequently mix with the other ingredients.
         The most perfect kind of flint-glass, No. I.
        Take of the white sand, 120 lbs. red  lead, 50
      lbs. the best pearl-ashes, 40 lbs. nitre, 20 lbs. mag-
      nesia, 5 oz.
        If this composition be fused with a  veiy strong
      fire, and time be given to it, a glass will  be  pro-
      duced that will have the play of the best flint glass,
      and yet be hard and strong.   It is not so cheap as
      the compositions given below, where arsenic or
      common salt is introduced, or where more of the
      pearl-ashes are used;  in either of which cases,
      savings may be  made  by  diminishing  proporlion-
      ably the quantities of nitre.  But the qualities  of
      this  glass  will  be found  to  come  nearer to the
      standard of perfection, which is to unite the lustre
      and hardness together in the greatest degree they
      are compatible with each other.
        If this composition be, however, desired to flux
      with less heat, and quicker, a pound or two of ar-
      senic may be added, which will be found effectually
      to answer the purpose.
                    Flint glass, No. 2.
        Take of sand,  120 lbs. the best pearl-ashes, 54
      lbs. red lead, 36 lbs. nitre, 12 lbs. magnesia, 6 oz.
        This will require much the same heat as the
      other, but will be harder  in its texture.  If it be
      desired to be made more yielding to the fire, ar-
      senic may be added, or the quantity of sand may
      be lessened.  In these cases the glass will be softer
      and weaker.
                    Flint-glass, No. 3.
        Take of white sand, 120 lbs. the best pearl-ashes,
      $5 lbs. arsenic, 6 lbs. magnesia, 4 oz.
        This glass will require a considerable time in
      the fire to become clear, and must not, if it can be
      avoided, be strongly urged at first.   This glass will
      not be so hard as those of the above compositions,
      but it will be very clear, and may be employed for
      large vessels, where a  sufficient thickness can be
      allowed to give them strength.
            Cheaper composition of glass, No. 4.
        Take the proportions of the other  ingredients
     ' given in the last, and omitting the arsenic,  add, in
      its stead, 15 lbs. of common salt.
        This will be  more  brittle  than  the last,  and
      therefore cannot be recommended, unless for the
      fabrication of such kind of vessels, or otlier pieces,
      where the strength is of little moment.
         Cheapest composition of flint-glass, No. 5.
        Take of  the  while  sand, 120 lbs. red  lead, 30
      lbs.  the best pearl-ashes, 20  lbs.  nitre,  10 lbs.
      common salt, 15  lbs. arsenic, 6 lbs.
        This glass wiil fuse with a moderate heat, but
      requires time, like the last, to take off the milky
      appearance  of the arsenic; it U yet softer than the
      last, and may therefore be deemed the worst kind
      of flint that can be made.
             Best German crystal-glass, No. 6.
        Take of the calcined flints, or white sand, 120
      lbs. the best pearl-ashes, 70 lbs. saltpetre, 10 lbs.
      arsenic, £ lb. magnesia, 5 oz.
        If the pearl-ashes be pure and good, this glass
      will equal the best of this kind that ever was made.
      Borax has been frequently used also iu the compo-
      sitions of this  sort of glass, but its great price,
      without any equivalent advantage, will deter from
•     the employing it in large manufactures, as there is
      no sort of transparent glass, (plate excepted,) that
      can bear the expense of it
               German crystal-glass, No. 7.
        Take of calcined  flints, or white sand, 120 lbs.
      pearl-ashes, 46 lbs. magnesia, 5 oz.
        This composition requires a long  continuance
      of heat, on account of the arsenic, for the reason
      before given.  It produces a glass equally or more
transparent and colrnrless than the'preceding, but
somewhat more brittle.   The arsenic is, however,
so disagreeable an ingredient, from the deleterious
qualities of the frme's, which will necessarily rise
copiously till tlie  fusion  of the other ingredients
check  it, that, where the advantage is not more
considerable than- the saving arising from the dif-
ference of these  two  recipes, it is sca.-cely worth
while to  submit to the inconvenience of it.
               To anneal glass.
  Nealing, as it is  called by  the workmen, is a
process in the glass houses, and consists in putting
the glass vessels, as soon as they are formed, and
while they are yet hot, into a furnace or  an  oven,
not so hot as to re-melt them,  and in which  they
are suffered  to cool gradually.  This is  found to
prevent their breaking easily, particularly ou ex-
posure to heat.
  A similar process is used for rendering  cast-iron
vessels less  brittle, and  the effect depends on the
same principles.
           To polish and grind glass.
  To grind plate-glass, lay it horizontally upon a
flat stone table, made of a very fine  grained free-
stone;  and for its greater security, plaster it  down
with mortar  of  stucco.   The store table is sup-
ported by a strong wooden* frame, with a  ledge all
round its edges,  rising about two inches above the
glass.  Upon the plate to be ground is laid another
rough glass, not above half as  big, and so loose as
to slide upon the former; but cemented to a wooden
plank, to guard it from  the injury it must other-
wise receive from the scraping of the wheel where-
to the plank is fastened, and from the weights laid
upon it to  promote the triture or grinding of the
glasses.  The whole is covered with a wheel  made
of hard light wood, about six inches  in diameter:
by pulling of ivhich backwards and  forwards al-
ternately, and sometimes turning  it round, the
workmen who always stand opposite to each other,
produce a constant attrition between the two glass-
es, and bring them to what degree of smoothness
they please, by first pouring in water and coarse
sand; after that, a finer sort of sand, as the work
advances, till at last  they pour in the powder of
smalt.  As the upper or  incumbent glass becomes
smooth,  it  must be removed, and another, from
time to time, substituted for it.
  The engine j* st described is called a mill by the
workmen, and is employed only in  grinding the
largest-sized glasses.   In grinding lesser glasses,
they usually  work  without a  wheel, having four
wooden  handles fastened to  the corners of the
stone that loads  the upper plank, by which they
work it about.  The grinders' part done, the glass
is turned over to the polisher, who, with fine pow-
der of tripoli stone or emery,  brings  it  to a per-
fect evenness and lustre.  The  instrument  made
use of in this branch, is  a board furnished with a
felt and  small roller,  which the workman moves
by means of a double  handle at  both ends.   The
artist,  in working this  roller,  is  assisted  by  a
wooden hoop, or spring, to the end of which it is
fixed; for the spiing, by constantly bringing the
roller back to the same poinls, facilitates the action
of the  workman's arm.
                 To make frit.
  Frit, in the glass manufacture, is the matter or
ingredients of which glass is  to  be  made,  when
they have been calcined or baked  in a  furnace*
There are three kinds of frit: the first, crystal frit,
or that for crystal or clear glass, is made  Avith sail
of pulverine and sand.  The second and ordinary
frit is made of the bare ashes of the pulverine os
barilla, without  extracting  the  salt from them.
This  makes  the  ordinary white  or  crystal  glass,
The third is frit for gre<* glasses, made  of com.. 
GLASS.
S79
mon ashes,  without anv preparation.   This last
frit will require ten or twelve hours baking.   The
materials in each are to be finely powdered, wash-
ed, and searced; then equally mixed, and frequent-
ly stirred together in the melting pot.
To r:ring pearl-ashes, or uny oilier fixed alkaline
       salt to the highest degree of purity.
  Take of the best pearl-ashes, 3 lbs.  and of  salt-
petre, 6 oz.   Pound them together in a glass or
marble mortar, till they are thoroughly well mix-
ed, and then put part of them into a large crucible,
and set it  in a furnace, where it may undergo a
strong heat.  When the part of the  matter that
was first put into  the crucible  is  heated red  hot,
throw in the rest gradually, and if the crucible will
not contain  the  whole, pour  part of  the melted
matter out  on a moistened  stone, or marble; and
having made room in the crucible, put  in the  rest,
and let it continue there likewise till it be red hot.
Pour it out then as the other, and  afterAvards put
the whole into an earthen, or very clean iron pot,
with 10 pints of water, and heat it over the  fire,
till the salts be entirely melted.  Let it then be
taken off the fire, stand till  it be cold, and after-
Avards filter it through paper in a pewter cullender.
When it,*is filtered, return the fluid again into the
pot, and evaporate  the salt to dryness, which will
then be as white  as snow, the nitre having burnt
all the phlogistic matter that  remained  in the
pearl-ashes atter their former calcination.
            To polish optical glasses.
   The operation of polishing optic glasses,  after
being properly ground, is one ofthe most difficult
points ofthe whole process.   Before the polishing
is begun,  it is  proper  to  stretch  an even  well
wrought piece of linen over the tool, dusting upon
it some very fine tripoli.  Then taking the glass
in the hand, run it  round forty or fifty times upon
the tool, to take off the  roughness of the glass
about the border of it.   This cloth is  then to  be
removed, and the glass  to  be polished upon the
naked tool, with a compound powder, made of
four parts tripoli mixed with one of fine blue vi-
triol; six or eight grains of which mixture are suffi-
cient for a glass five inches  broad.  This powder
must be wetted with eight or ten drops of clear vi-
negar in the middle of the tool; being first mixed
and softened thoroughly with  a very fine  small
muller.  Then, with  a nice brush, having spread
this mixture thinly and equably upon the tool, take
some very fine tripoli,  and strew  it  thinly, and
equably, upon the tool  so prepared;  after which,
take the glass to  be polished, wiped  very clean,
and apply it on the tool, and move it gently twice
or thrice  in a  straight line backwards and for-
wards; then take it off, and observe whether the
marks of the tripoli,  sticking to the glass, are
equably spread over the whole surface: it not, it is
a sign that either the tool or glass is too warm; in
in which case wait awhile and try it again, till tli-j
glass takes the tripoli every where alike.   Then
begin lo polish  boldly, there being no danger of
spoiling the figure of the glass, which in the other
case would infallibly happen.
To purify pearl-ashes for  the  manufacture  of
                    mirrors.
   Take any quantity of the  best pearl-ashes, and
dissolve them in four times their weight of water
boiling, which operation may be best performed in
a pot of cast iron.  When  they are dissolved, let
the solution be put into a clean tub, and suffered to
remain there twentv-four  hours or longer.   Let
the clear part of the'fluid be then decanted off from
the dregs or sediment, and put back into the iron
pot, in which the water must be evaporated away
Till the salts be left  perfectly dry again.   They
should then, if not used immediately, be kept in
stone jars, well secured from moisture and air, tiP,
such time as they are wanted.
  Great care should be always taken in this treat-
ment of the salts, to keep the iron pot thoroughly
clean from  rust, which would give a yellow tinge
to the glass, not to be removed without greatly in-
juring it
GLASS AND PASTES TO IMITATE PRB-
            CIOUS STONES, &c.

The best and hardest glass for receiving colour
                    No. 1.
  Take of the best sand, cleansed  by washing,
twelve pounds, of pearl-ashes, or fixed  alkaline
salt, purified with nitre, seven pounds, of salt-pe-
tre, one pound, and of  borax, half a pound.
  The sand being first reduced to powder  in  a
glass or flint mortar, trie other ingredients should
be put to it, and the whole well mixed  by pound-
ing them together.
       Best glass, but not so hard, No. 2.
  Take of the white sand cleansed, twelve pounds,
of pearl-ashes, purified with  salt-petre,  seven
pounds, of nitre, one pound, of borax, half a pound,
and of arsenic, four ounces.
  Proceed as in the last, but if the glass be requir-
ed to melt with yet less heat, a  pound  of borax
may be used instead of the half pound, and a pound
of common salt may be added ; but this last is apt
to make the glass more brittle, which is an injury
done to such as is to be cut into A-ery small pieces,
and ground with so many angles  in the figure, in
imitation of jewels.
  Soft glass or paste for receiving colours, No. 3.
  Take of white sand cleansed, six pounds, of red
lead, three  pounds, of purified pearl-ashes,  two
pounds, and of nitre, one pound.
  Proceed with the mixture as with the foregoing.
   Glass or paste, softer than the above, No. 4.
  Take of white sand,  cleansed, 6 lbs. of red lead,
and purified pearl-ashes, each 3 lbs. of nitre, 1 lb.
of borax, half a pound,  and of arsenic, 3 oz.
  This is very soft and will fuse with a very gentle
heat, but requires some time to become  clear, on
account of the arsenic.  It may even be  prepared
and  tinged in a common fire without a  furnace, if
the pots containing it can be surrounded  by burn-
ing coals, without danger of their falling into it.
The  borax, being  a more  expensive  ingredient
than the others, may be omitted where a somewhat
greater heat can be applied, and the glass is not in-
tended for very nice purposes; or a pound of com-
mon  salt may be instituted in its place; but the
glass will be more clear and perfect, and free it-
self much sooner from bubbles, where the borax is
used.
   This glass will be very soft, and will  not  bean
much  water, if employed  for  rings, buckles, or
such imitations of stones  as  are exposed to much
rubbing.  But for ear-rings, ornaments  worn on
the breast, or such others as are but seldom put on,
it may last a considerable time.
   In all these  soft  compositions,  care should be
taken that part of the  sand be not left unverified
in the bottom of the pot, as will  sometimes hap-
pen, for in that case tiu. glass, abounding too much
with salt and lead, will not bear the air, but being
corroded by it, will soon contract  a mistiness and
specks in the surface, which will entirely efface all
the lustre of the paste.
      Hard glass of a full bhie colour, No. 1.
   Take of the composition of hard glass, No. 1 or
2, ten pounds, zaffre, 6 dr. and of magnesia, 2 dc.
Proceed as with the above.
   If this glass be of too deep a colour, the propop- 
380
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
  tion of the zaffre and magnesia to the glass may be
  diminished; and if it verge too  much on the pur-
  ple, to which  cast  it will incline, the magnesia
  should be omitted.   If a very cool or pure blue be
  wanted, instead of the magnesia, half an ounce of
  calcined copper may be  used, and the  proportion
  of zaffre diminished by one half.
        Paste of a full blue colour, No. 2.
    Take of the  composition for paste, No. 1 or 2,
  ten pounds, and proceed as with  the foregoing.
    Hard glass  resembling the sapphire,  No. 3.
    Take of the  compositions for  hard glass, No. 1
  or 2, ten pounds, of zaffre, three 'rachms and one
  scruple, of  calx caffei, or precipitation  of gold by
  tin, one drachm.  Proceed as with the above.
        Cheaper hard glass for ditto, No. 4.
    As the foregoing, only, instead of the- precipi-
  tate of gold, use two drachms and two scruples of
  magnesia.
    If this be well managed, the colour will be very
  good, and the glass, Avhen set and cut, will not he
  easily distinguishable from the true sapphire; but
  the preceding will be a finer colour,  as there is a
  foulness in the  tinge of the magnesia, which will
 always diminish, in some degree, the effect of
 brighter colours, when with them.
      Paste resembling the sapphire,  No. 5.
   Take of the composition for paste, No. 3 or 4,
 and proceed as with the foregoing.
   It is  not worth while to bestow the expense of
 colouring paste with the gold, and it is therefore
 more expedient, in  the  case of  such, to use the
 other method.
 Hard glass and paste for sapphire, by  means  of
                 smalt, No. 6.
   Take of  the  compositions  for hard  glass and
 paste, any quantity, and mix with  them one-eighth
 of their Aveight of  smalt, the brightest and most
 inclining  to purple that can be procured.
   If it  be desired to give a  more purple tinge,
 magnesia may be added in the proportion required.
   Hard glass resembling eagle marine,  No. 7.
   Take of the composition for hard glass, No. 1
 or 2, ten pounds, of copper, highly calcined with
 sulphur, three ounces, and of zaffre, one scruple.
 Proceed as with the  foregoing.
        Paste for eagle marine,  No. 8.
   Take of the composition for paste, No. 1 or 2,
 ten pounds, and  proceed as with the above.
   Hard glass of a gold or yellow colour,  No. 1.
   Take of the composition for hard glass, No. 1
 or 2, ten pounds, but omit the salt-petre, and for
every pound add an ounce of calcined borax, or,  if
 that do  not render the glass sufficiently fusible, two
 ounces,  of red tartar,  the deepest coloured that can
 be procured, ten ounces, of magnesia,  two ounces,
 of charcoal of sallow, or any other soft kind, two
 drachms.  Proceed as with the rest.
    Paste of a gold  or yellow colour,  No. 2.
   Take of the composition for paste,  No. 3 or 4,
 prepared without the salt-petre,  ten  pounds,  of
 iron, strongly calcined, one ounce  and a half.  Pro-
ceed as  with the others.
   Th- crude tartar and  the charcoal must not be
used where lead  enters into the composition ofthe
glass, and  the nitre may be spared,  because the
yellow tinge, given to the "-'ass by the lead, on ac-
count of which the nitre is used,  is no detriment
in this case, but  only adds to the  proper colour.
 This colour may also be prepared by crude anti-
mony, as well as the  calcined iron, but it is more
difficult to be managed, and not superior in its
effect.
    Hard glass  resembling the topaz,  No. 3.
   Take  of the composition for hard glass,  No. 1
or 2, ten pounds, and an equal quantity of the gold
I coloured hard glass.  Powder and  fuse ther.i to-
 gether.
   As there Is a great variety in the  colour of the
 topaz, some being a deeper yellow, and  others
 slightly tinged, the proportions ofthe yellow glass
 to the white may be accordingly varied at pie?, ure,
 the one here given being for the deepest.
        Paste resembling the topaz, No. 4.
   This may be done  in the same manner as the
 preceding,  but the salt-petre maybe omitted in
 the  original composition of the glass, and for the
 resemblance of the very slightly coloured topazes
 neither the gold coloured paste nor any other ting-
 ing  matter need be added, that of the lead being
 sufficient, when not destroyed by the nitre.
      Glass resembling the chrysolite, No. 5.
   Take of the compositions for hard glass, No. 1
 or 2, ten pounds, of calcined  iron  six drachms.
 Proceed as with the above.
      Paste resembling the  chrysolite, No. 6.
   Take of the composition for paste, No. 3 or 4.
 prepared without  salt-petre, ten pounds, and of
 calcined iron, five drachms.  Proceed as with the
 rest.
   Hard glass resembling the emerald, No. 1.
   Take of the composition for hard glass, No. I
 or 2, nine pounds, of copper precipitated  from
 aquafortis, three ounces, and of precipitated  iron,
 two  drachms.
      Paste resembling the emerald,  No. 2.
   Take of the composition for paste, No.  1  or 2,
 and  proceed as with the above; but if the salt-petre
 be omitted in the preparation  of the paste, a less
 proportion of the iron will serve.
 Hard glass ofa deep and very bright purple colour,
                     No. 1.
   Take of the composition  for hard glass, No.  1
 or 2, ten pounds, of zaffre, six drachms,  of gold
 precipitated by tin, one drachm.  Proceed as wilh
the rest.
   Hard glass of a deep purple colour, No. 2.
  Take of the compositions for hard glass, No.  1
or 2,10 lbs. of magnesia, 1 oz.  and of zaffre, ^ oz.
Proceed as with the other.
     Paste of a deep purple colour, No. 3.
  Take of the composition for pastes, No. 3 or 4,
10 pounds, and treat them as the foregoing.
 Hard glass of the colour of the amethyst, No. 4.
  Take ofthe composition  of hard  glass, No. 1 or
2,  10 pounds, of magnesia,  1^  oz. and of zaffre, 1
dr.  Proceed as Avith the rest.
   Paste of the colour of the amethyst, No. 5.
  Take of the composition  for paste, No. 1 or 2,
10 pounds, and treat it as the preceding.
         Paste resembling  the diamond.
  Take ofthe white sand, 6 lbs. of red lead, 4 lbs.
of pearl ashes, purified  as above  directed, 3 lbs.
of nitre, 2 lbs. of arsenic, 5 oz. and  of magnesia,
I scruple.  Proceed  as with the others,  but con-
tinue the fusion for a considerable time on account
of the large proportion of arsenic.
  If  this composition be  thoroughly vitrified, and
kept free from bubbles, it will be very white, and
have a very great lustre;  but, if on examination it
appears to incline  to yellow, another scruple oi
more of the magnesia may be a-ided.  It may be
rendered harder by diminishing the proportion of
lead, and increasing that of the  salts, or fusing il
with a very strong fire; but the diminution of the
proportion  of lead will  make it have less  of the
lustre of the diamond.
          Hard glass perfectly black.
  Take of the composition  for hard glass, No. 1
or 2, 10 lbs.  of zaffre, 1 oz. of magnesia, and of
iron, strongly calcined, each 7 drachms.  Proceed
as  with the rest. 
GLASS.
381
             Paste perject'y black.
   Take of the composition for paste, No. 1 or 2,
 prepared with the salt-petre, 10 lbs.  of zaffre, 1
 oz.  of  magnesia, 6 drs.  and of iron,  highly cal-
 cined, 5 drs.   Proceed as with the others.
           White opaque glass,  No. 1.
   Take of the composition for hard glass,  No. 1 or
 Q, 10 lbs. of horn,  ivory,  or bone, calcined per-
 fectly white, I lb.  Proceed as with the others.
      Paste of an opaque w/uteness,  No. 8.
   Take ofthe vomposition, No. 3 or 4, 10 lbs. and
 make the same addition  as to the above.
 Glass of an opaque wlutenesi formed by  arseiuc,
                    No. 3.
   Take of fliut glass 10 pounds, and of veiy white
 arsenic, 1 pound. PoAvderand mix them thorough-
 ly, by grinding them together, and then fuse them
 with a moderate heat till they be well incorporated,
 but avoid liquefying them more than to make a per-
 fect union.
   This glass has been made at a considerable manu-
 factory  near London, in great quantities, and has not
 only been formed into a variety of different  kinds
 of vessels, but, being very white and fusible Avith
 a moderate  heat,  has been much used, as a white
 ground, for enamel in dial plates, and other pieces
 which have not  occasion to go several times into
 the fire to be finished.   It will not, however, bear
 repeated burnings, nor a strong heat continued  for
 any length of time, when applied to this purpose,
 without becoming transparent,  to which likewise
 the smoke of a coal fire will also  greatly contri-
 bute; but it  answers the end very well in  many
 cases, though even in those, enamel  of the  same
 degree  of whiteness would  be preferable, as this
 is always brittle, and of less firm  and tenacious
 texture.
 Hard glass, or paste, formed by calx of tin or an-
                 timony, No. 4.
   Take of any of the compositions for hard glass,
 or pastes 10 pounds, of calcined  tin  (commonly
 called putty), or of antimony, or  tin  calcined  by
 means of nitre, l^lbs.; mix them Avell by grinding
 them together, and then fuse them with a mode-
 rate heat.
   The  glass of this kind made with the composi-
 tion for pastes, differs in nothing from white ena-
 mel, but in the  proportion  of the calx of tin and
 antimony.
 Semi-transparent white glass and paste resembling
                the opal, No. 5.
   Take of any of the compositions for hard glass,
 or paste, 10 pounds, of horn, bone, or i\'ory, cal-
 cined to a perfect whiteness, half a pound.   Pro-
 ceed as with the rest.
  This  white hard glass is much the same with the
 German glass formerly brought here in porringers,
(cream pots,  vinegar cruets,  and other such pieces,
-of  which we frequently meet with the remains.
    Fine red glass resembling the ruby, No. 1.
  Take ofthe hard glass, No. 1 or 2,  1 pound, of
 the calx caffei, or gold prepared by precipitation
wilh tin, 3 drachms.  Powder the glass, and grind
the calx of gold afterwards with it in a glass, flint,
or agate mortar, and then fuse them together.
  This  may be made of a stronger or more diluted
colour,  by varying the proportion of the  gold, in
adjusting which, proper  regard  should be had to
the application ofthe glass when made; for where
tliis glass is set in rings, bracelets, or other close
work, where foils can be used,  a great saving may
be  made with regard to  the colour of it, w.thout
much injury to the effect; but for ear-rings,  or
other purposes where the work  is set transparent,
a full strong colour should be given, which may be
effected by the proportions directed in this  com-
position.
         Paste resembling the ruby, No. 2.
   Take of the pa-te, No. 3 or 4, I lb. and of calx
I caffei, or precipitation of gold by tin, 2 drachma.
J Proceed in the mixture as with the above.
i   This  will be equally beautiful with the above,
i and defective only in  softness; but as that greatly
j takes away the value for some  purposes, such as is
i appropriated to them may be  tinged in a cheaper
 manner by the following means.
    A cheaper paste resembling the ruby, No. 3.
   Take of the composition for paste, No.  3 or 4,
 half a pound, of gla-ss of antimony, half a pound,
 and of the precipitation of gold by tin, 1 drachm
 and a half.  Proceed as with the others.
   This will be considerably cheaper, and will have
 much the same effect, except that it  recedes more
 from the crimson  to the orange.
     Hard glass resembUng the garnet, No. 4.
   Take  ofthe  composition for hard glass, No. 1 or
 2, 2  pounds, of glass of antimony, 1  pound,  of
 magnesia,  and of the precipitate of gold by tin,
 each, I  drachm.
   This composition  is very beautiful, but too  ex-
 pensive, on account  of the  gold, for the imitation
 of garnets for common purposes; on which account
 the following may be substituted.
     Hard glass resembling the garnet, No. 5.
   Take  of the composition, No. 1 or 2, 2 lbs. ot
 the glass of antimony, 2 lbs. and of magnesia, 2 dr.
   If the colour be "found too dark and purple in
 either this or the preceding composition, the pro-
 portion of magnesia must be diminished.
      Paste of the colour of garnet, No. 6.
   Take  of the composition for paste,  No.  1 or 2,
 and proceed'as with the above.
 Hard glass resembling the vinegar garnet, No.  7.
   Take  of  the  composition,  No.  1  or 2, tAvo
 pounds, of glass of  antimony,  1 pound, of iron,
 highly calcined, half an ounce.   Mix the iron with
 the  uncoloured glass, and fuse  them together till
 the  mass  be perfectly transparent,  then add  the
 glass of antimony, powdered, stirring the mixture
 with the end of a tobacco pipe, and continue them
 in the heat till the whole be perfectly kicorporatedL
   Paste resembling the vinegar garnet, No. 8.
   Take  of the composition lor paste, No. 3 or 4,
 and proceed as with the foregoing.
       Fictitious or counterfeit lapis  lazuli.
   Take  of any of the preceding compositions  foi-
 hard glass, or paste, 10 pounds, of calcined bones,
 horn, or ivory, three quarters ofa pound, of zaffre,
\ 1  ounce.  Fuse the  uncoloured composition with
 the zaffre aud  magnesia, till a very  deep transpa-
 rent blue  glass  be  produced.  The mass being
 cold, powder it, and mix it  with the calcined mat-
 ter, by grinding them together.  After which fuse
 them with a moderate hest till they be thoroughly
 incorporated, and then form the melted mass into
 cakes, by pouring it on a clean bright plate of cop-
 per or iron.
                    Another.
   If it be  desired to have  it veined with gold, it
 may  be done by mixing the  gold powder, with  an
 equal weight of  calcined borax,  and tempering
 them with oil of spike, by which  mixture,  the
 cakes being painted  with such veins as are desired,
 they must be put into a furnace  of a moderate heat,
 and the gold will be cemented to the glass as firm-
 ly as if the veins had been natural.
                    Another.
   If the counterfeit lapis lazuli be  desired of a
 lighter hue, the  quantity of zaffre and magnesia
 must be diminished;  or, if it  be required to  be
 more transparent, that of the calcined horn, bone,
 or ivory, should be lessened.
                    Another.
   Instead of zaffre, where, that cannot be obtained, 
382                           UNIVERSAL RI

a proper proportion of smalt may be substituted.
And in all cases, indeed, it may be a more certain
way to form the  zaffre and vitrifying ingredients
into glass alone, and then  having powdered  them
with the calcined bones or horns, infuse them a se-
cond time,  and make them into cakes in the man-
ner directed; for the fluxing power of the ingredi-
ents of the glass is so retarded by the calcined
bone or horn, that it  may, in  some cases, fail to
act sufficiently on the zaffre to vitrify it perfectly.
    To make glass resembling  red cornelian.
  Take of the composition for hard glass, No. I or
2, 2 pounds, of glass of antimony, 1 pound, of the
utlcined vitriol,  called scar.et  oker, 2 oz. aud  of
magnesia, 1 dr.
  Fuse  the glass of  antimony and magnesia wilh
the other glass first together, and then poivder them
well,  and  mix them  with the scarlet oker,  by
grinding them together, and afterwards fuse  the
mixture with  a gentle heat,  till they are incorpo-
rated; but the heat must not be continued longer
than is  absolutely required  to form  them into a
vitreous mass.
  If it be desired to have the  composition  more
transparent, part of the red oker must be omitted. ■
      Paste resembling the red cornedan.
  Take of the composition for paste, No. 1 or 2,
2 pounds, and proceed as with the above.
     Hard glass resembling white cornelian.
  Take of ihe composition for hard  glass, No. 1
or 2, 2  pounds,  of yellow oker,  well washed, 2
drachms, and  of calcined bones, each 1 ounce.
Mix them  well  by  grinding them together, and
fuse them with a gentle heat  till the several ingre-
dients oe well incorporated in a vitreous mass.
     To make a road on M'Adams's system.
  Stone is to be procured in some form in almost
every part of the country, and a road made of
small broken stone to the depth of ten inches, will
be smooth, solid, and durable.
  The size of stones for a road should be that of
a hen's egg, or half a pound weight.  It must be
in due proportion lo the space occupied by a wheel
of ordinary dimensions jn a smooth level surface:
this point of contact will be found to be longitu-
dinally, about an inch; and every  piece of stone
put into a  road, which exceeds an inch in any of
iu dimensions, is mischievous.
   In repairing an old road no addition of materials
is to be brought upon it,  unless in any part it be
found that  there is  not a  quantity of clean stone
equal to ten inches in thickness.
   The stone already in the road is to be loosened
tip and broken, so as no piece  shall exceed six
ounces in weight.  The road is then to be laid as
fiat as  possible, a rise of three inches  from the
centre to the side is sufficient for a road thirty feet
wide.
   Tlie stones when loosened in the road are to be
gathered oft" by means of a strong  heavy rake,
wilh teeth two inches and a half in length, to the
side of  the road, and there broken, and on no ac-
count are stones to be broken on the road.
   When the great stones have been removed, and
iCEIPT  BOOK.

        Paste resembling white cornehan.
   Take of the composition for pastes, No. 1 or 2
 1  pound, and proceed as with the foregoing.
 Hard glass or paste resembling the turquoise stone*
   Take of the composition for blue glass or paste,
 No. 7 or 8, (being those resembling the eagle ma-
 rine) 10 pounds, of calcined bone, horn, or ivory,
 half a pound.  Powder and mix them well, and
 then  fuse  them in a moderate  heat till they be
 thoroughly incorporated.
   If the colour be not so deep as -nay be desired,
 a  small proportion of smalt may be added.
    Bronvn Venetian glass with gold spangles.
   Take of the composition for hard glass, No. 2i,
 and the composition for  paste, No.  1,  each  5
 pounds, and of highly calcined  iron, one ounce.
 Mix them  well, and fuse them til) the iron  be per-
 fectly vitrified, and have tinged the glass of a deep
 transparent yellow brown colour.  Powder  this
 glass, and add to  it tAvo pounds of glass of anti-
 mony, being powdered, and mix them well, by
 grinding them together.  Take part of this mix-
 ture,  and rub into it fourscore  or one hundred
 leaves of the counterfeit leaf of gold,  commonly
 called Dutch gold; and, when the parts  of the gold
 seem sufficiently  divided,  mix  the powder con-
 taining it with the other part of the glass.  Fuse
 the whole then with a moderate heat, till the pow-
 der runs into a vitreous mass, fit to be wrought into
 any of the figures or vessels into which it is usually
 formed;  but avoid a perfect liquefaction, because
 that destroys, in a short time,  the equal diffusion
 of the spangles, and vitrifies, at least, part of the
 matter of  which  they are composed,  converting
 the whole into a kind of transparent olive-colour-
 ed glass.
 none left in tlie road exceeding six ounces, the
 road is to be put in shape,  and a rake employed
 to smooth the surface, which will at the same time
 bring to the surface the remaining stone, and will
 allow the dirt to go down.
   When the road is so prepared, the stones that
 have been broken by the side of the road are then
 to be carefully spread on  it—not to be laid on  it
 in shovels-full, but scattered over the surface, one
 shovel-full following another, and  spreading over
 a considerable space.
   Only a small piece of road  should be lifted at
 once; five men in a gang should be set to lift it all
 across:  two men should continue to pick up and
' rake off the large stones, and to form the road for
 receiving the broken stone, the other three should
 break  stones—the broken stone to be laid  on as
 soon as the piece of road is prepared to receive it,
 and  then break  up another piece;  two or three
 yards at one lift is enough.
   The  proportioning the  work among  the five
 men must of course be regulated by ths nature of
 the road; when there are many very large stones,
 the three breakers may not be able to keep pace
 with the two men employed in lifting and forming,
 and  when there  are few large stones  the  contrary
 may be the  case; in all this,  the  surveyor mink
 judge and direct
   But, wlule it  is recommended to lift and relay
BXISCE££AMEOUS  RECEIPTS. 
MISCELLANEOUS.
383
roads which  have been made with large stone, or
with large stone mixed  with clay, chalk, or other
mischievous  materials,  there are many cases in
which it would be highly unprofitable  to lift and
relay a road, even if the materials should  have
been originally too large.
  When additional stone is  wanted on a road that
has consolidated by use, the old hardened surface
of the road is to be loosened with a pick, in order
to make the fresh materials  unite with the old.
  The  only  proper  method of breaking stones,
both for effect and economy, is by persons sitting;
the stones are to be placed  in  small heaps,  and
women, bovs, or old men, past hard labour, must
sit down with small  hammers and break them, so
as none shall exceed six ounces in weight.
  Every road is to be made of broken stone, with-
out mixtuie  of earth,  clay, chalk,  or  any other
matter that will imbibe  Avater and be affected wilh
frost; nothing is to be laid on the clean stone on
pretence of binding; broken stone will combine by
its OAvn angles into a smooth solid surface that can-
not be affeeted  by vicissitmles of weather, or  dis-
placed  by the  aetion of wheels, which will pass
over  it without a jolt,  and  consequently without
injury.
  Flint makes  an excellent  road, if due ittention
be paid to the size; but, from want of that  atten-
tion, many of the flint roads are rough,  loose, and
expensive.
  Limestone, when properly prepared and applied,
makes a smojjth solid road,  and becomes consoli-
dated sooner than any other material; but from its
nature is not the  most lasting.
   Whinstone is the most durable of aP  materials;
and,  wherever it is well and judiciously applied,
the roads are comparatively good and cheap.
  The pebbles of Shropshire and Staffordshire are
of a  hard substanee, and  only require  a prudent
application to be made  good road materials.
               To preserve milk.
   Provide bottles which must be perfectly clean,
sweet and dry; draw the milk from  tne cow  into
the bottles, and as they are filled, immediately cork
them well up,  and  fasten  the corks  wilh  pack
thread or wire.   Then  spread a little straw on the
bottom of a  boiler,  on which place bottles with
straw between  them, until  the  boiler contains a
sufficient  quantity.  Fill  it  up with cold water;
heat the water, and  as  soon as it begins to boil,
draw the fire,  and let  the  whole gradually  cool.
When quite  cold take out the bottles,  and  pack
them wilh straw or saw-dust in hampers, and stow
them in the coolest part of the house or  ship.
Milk preserved in this  manner, although eighteen
months in the bottles, will be as sweet as when
first milked from the cow.
         'J'o make a domestic telegraph.
   This instrument  consists of two  dials, divided
In the same  manner, the  hands of which move at
the  same time.  One of these dials is placed in
tlie master's room; the other is placed where the
servant is waiting.  Each of the divisions,  which
can be multiplied at will,represents an order which
is indicated by a letter, or by any other sign agreed
upon.  The master places  the  hand ot his  dial
upon the sign  of the order which  he   wishes to
transmit, and immediately the signal is repeated
in the servant's room.
             'J'o construct barometers.
   The tubes intended  for barometers ought to be
sealed hermetically  on  both ends, immediately af-
ter they are  made at the glass-house,  and  to be
kept in this state until luey are fitted up. Without
this precaution, they are apt to be sullied with dust,
moisture, and other  impurities, which it is atter-
wards almost impossible to remove ou account ot
 the smallness of their diameters.  When they are
 opened, which may be done with a file, care should
 be taken not to breathe into them, nor to wash them
 wilh spirit of wine, or other fluid, experience hav-
 ing proved that in  tubes so treated, the mercury
 always stands  a little below its proper level; this
 is owing to the adhesion of a little ofthe spirit of
 wine to the sides of the tube.   When  cleaning is
 necessary, it must be done  with a fine linen rag,
 that has been previously well dried.
   The tubes ought to be as perfectly  cylindrical
| as possible, though, in some cases, this is noi sA>-
! soh'tely necessary.   They should be abnut  3d
i inches in  length, and  the  diameter of their bore
 should  be  at  least  2 or 2J lines,  otherwise the
 friction, and the capillary  action, will be apt  to
; affect the free  motion of the mercury.  The glass
' should not be very thick,  as it is apt in that case
j to break, when the mercury is boiled in the tube^
 half a line is sufficient.
   Tne mercury ought to be perfectly pure and free
 from  all foreign metals.   The best is what has
 been recently revived from  cinnabar; the common
 mercury of the shops being often adulterated  in-
 tentionally with tin, lead,  and  bismuth, stands at
 various heights in the tube, according to the nature
 and quantity of the foreign substances with which
 it is amalgamated.
              To purify the mercury.
   For this purpose, take a  pound of cinnabar, and
 reduce it to powder: mix it well with five or six
 ounces of iron or steel filings;  and, having put the
 mixture into an iron retort, expose the whole  to
 the heat of a  reverberatory furnace; the mercury
 will soon  pass over in a state of great purity, and
 may  be obtained  by adapting  to  the retort  an
 earthen receiver, which has been previously half
 filled with water.
            Process of filling the tube.
   Before being well introduced into the tube, the
 mercury ought to be Avell  heated, or even boiled
 in a glazed earthen pipkin; in order to drive  off
 any moisture which may  adhere to it, but this will
 be  unnecessary if the mercury has  been recently
 revived.
   The mercury ought likewise to be boiled in  tlie
 tube to expel any air or moisture which  may still
 remain attached to it, or to the inside of the tube.
 This is done in the following manner: Pour as
 much mercury into the lube as will make it stand
 to the length of three or four inches; and introduce
 a long wire of iron to stir it during the boiling.
 Expose the mercury in the tube gradually to  the
 heat  of a  chafing-dish of  burning charcoal; and
 when it begins to boil, stir it gently with  the iron
 wire, to facilitate the disengagement of the bubbles
 of the air.  When the first portion  of the mercury
 has been sufficiently boiled, and all the air extri-
 cated, remove the tube from the chafing-dish, and
 allow the  whole to cool, taking care not to bring
 it into contact with any cold substance.   Introduce
 an  equal  quantity of mercury, and  treat it in  tlie
 same manner, withdraAving the wire a  little,  so
 that it may not reach below the upper  part of the
 mercury already freed from  air.  The  chafing-
 dish must also be  placed  immediately under tha
 mercury which has been last poured in.  Repeat
 the same process with  each successive portion of
 mercury, till the tube is filled, always applying the
 heat very  cautiously; and be equally careful iu al-
 lowing it to cool, before  a  fresh  portion of mer-
 cury  is poured in.
 To construct  Mr  Troughton's improved marine
                    barometer.
    The tube consists  of two parts, joined together
 about five inches below  the top: the bore in  the
 upper part oeing about 4-10ths of an inch, and  in 
384
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 the  lower part only 2-l00ths.  By this construc-
 tion, partly  from the  difference of the bores, and
 partly from the greater friction in the lower end,
 the motion  of the mercury is so much retarded,
 that any impulse given by the ship, having a ten-
 dency to raise it, will scarcely have  produced a
 sensible effect, before an opposite  impulse will be
 given, having a tendency to depress it.  To coun-
 teract more effectually the effect!? of the ship's mo-
 tions,  the instrument is  suspended in gymbals.
 The whoie is attached to the side  of the cabin by
 two  .ubes of brass, which slide  one  within the
 other, and render the instrument capable of being
 suspended at different distances from the place of
 support, that the bottom of  it may not strike the
 sides of the  cabin, during any heavy rolling of the
 vessel.   The inner tube carries th„  gymbals.  The
 external frame of the barometer is a cylindrical
 tube of wood, on which slides a brass socket; and
 iu this is inserted the innermost pair of pivots of
 the gymbals, or universal joints, ivhich furnishes
 the instrument  with a moveable point of suspen-
 sion.  The top is terminated with a knob of brass.
 of a weight nearly equal to that of the  mercury,
 &c. at the lower end.  Wilh respect  to the posi-
 tion  ofthe point of suspension, no general rule can
 be given.  It is < bvious, however, that though this
 point were accurately determined for one particu-
 lar height ofthe mercury, it would not correspond
 to every other.   By the ingenious contrivance of
 Mr Troughton, of placing a knob  at the top, as a
 counterpoise to  the weight of the mercury, the
 centre of gravity of the Avhole will be about the
 middle; and if  the instrument,were of the same
 specific gravity throughout, the point of suspension
 that  Avould produce the smallest oscillations in the
 mercury,  would be about l-3d of the  length of
 the instrument from the top, considering the lower
 part a3 a fixed point.  But as this is not strictly the
 case, the point of suspension is best ascertained by
 experiment.  The graduation  is on two scales of
 ivory,  about four inches long, for the reception of
 which,  two  opposite  quarters of the cylindrical
 frame  are crossed out through that length, their
 planes pointing  toAvards  the centre of the  tube.
 The index is a veiy light one, and  slides upon the
 glass tube without touching any other part. At
 the bottom is the usual screw, which  pressing up
 the leather bag,  prevents the mercury from  mov-
 ing when the instrument is carried  from one place
 to another.
            Fahrenheit's hydrometer.
  This consists  of a hollow ball, with a counter-
 poise below, and a very slender stem above, termi-
 nating in a small dish.  The middle or half length
 ofthe stem is distinguished  by a fine line across.
 In this instrument every division ofthe stem is re-
 jected, and it is immersed in all experiments to
 the middle of the stem, by placing proper weights
 in tlie little dish above.  Then as the part immers-
 ed is constantly  of  the same magnitude, and the
 whole weight of the  hydrometer  is known, this
last weight added to the weights in  the dish will be
 equal to the Aveight of fluids displaced by the in-
 strument, as all  writers  on hydrostatics prove;
 and, accordingly, the specific gravities ofthe com-
 mon forms of the tables will be had by the follow-
 ing proportion:  As the whole weight ofthe hydro-
 meter and its load, when adjusted in distilled wa-
 ter, is to the number of 10"'0, &c.  so is the whole
 weight when adjusted  in any other fluidto the num-
 her expressing its specific gravity.
  As the operation of weighing equal quantities of
 eorrosive volatile fluids, to determine their specific
 gravities, requires considerable attention aud stea-
 diness, and also a good balance, the floating instru-
 ment, called the  hydrometer, has  always been es-
 teemed by philosophers, as well as men of business.
      To construct Fahrenheit's thermometer.
   Fahrenheit's thermometer consists of a slender
 cylindrical  tube, and a small longitudinal  bulb.
 To the side of the tube is annexed a scale divided
 into 600 parts, beginning with that of the severe
 cold experienced in Iceland in 1709, or that  pro-
 duced by surrounding the bulb ofthe thermometer
 with a mixture of siioav or beaten ice,  and sal am-
 moniac or sea ialt.  This is marked at the begin-
 ning of the  scale with O; the point at which the
 mercury begins to  boil is conceived to show the
 greatest degree of heat, and is made the limits of
 the scale.  The distance between these two points
 is divided into 600 equal parts or degrees; and by
 trials it  is found that the mercury stands at 32 of
 these divisions, when water just begins to freeze,
 or snow or ice just begins to thaAv;  it  is therefore
 called the  degree of the freezing  point   When
 the tube is immersed in boiling water, the mercury
 rises to 212, Avhich, therefore, is the boiling point,
 and is just 180 degrees above the former or freez-
 ing point.  However, the present method  of mak-
 ing the scale of these thermometers, which is the
 sort in  most common use, is first to immerge the
 bulb ofthe thermometer in ice  or  snow, just be-
 ginning  to thaw, and  mark the place where the
 mercury stands, with the place where the mercury
 stands i.i the tube, whicli mark with the  number
 212, exceeding the former by 180; dividing, there-
 fore, the intermediate  space  into 180 equal parts,
 will give the scale of the thermometer, and which
 may afterwards  be  continued upwards and down-
 wards with pleasure.
       To construct a common thermometer.
  In this thermometer the whole bulb of quicksil-
 ver, when immerged in boiling water, is conceiv-
 ed to  be divided into 100,000 parts; and from this
 one fixed point the various degrees of heat, either
 above or below it, are marked  in those parts of
 the scale by the various contractions or expan-
 sions of the quicksilver, in all the imaginable v»»
 rieties of heat;  some  make  the integer  100,000
 parts at freezing water, and from thence complete
 the condensations of the quicksilver in those parts;
 as all the common observations of the weather are
 thereby expressed by numbers increasing as  the '
 heat increases, instead of decreasing or counting
 the contrary way.   However, it will not  be  very
 easy to determine exactly all  the divisions from
 the alterations of the bulk  of the contained fluid.
 And,  besides, as glass itself is dilated by heat,
 though in a less proportion than quicksilver, it is
 only the excess of the dilatation of  the combined
 fluid above .that of the glass lhat is  observed; and
 therefore if different kinds of the glass be differ-
 ently  affected by a given degree of  heat, this will
 make the seeming difference iu the dilatations of
 the quicksilver in the thermometers constructed on
 the Newtonian principle.
   To adjust the fixed points of thermometers.
  In adjusting the freezing, as well as the boiling
 point, the quicksilver in the tube ought to be kept
 in the  same heat as that in the ball.   When the
 freezing point is placed at a considerable distance
 from the hall,  the pounded ice should be  piled to
 such a height above the ball, that the error which
 can arise from the  quicksilver in the  remaining
 part ofthe tube not being heated equally with that
 in the ball, shall be very small, or the observed
 point must be corrected on that account according
to the folloiving table:—
    Heat ofthe air.              Correction.
42°
52
62
72
82
}00087
,00174
,00261
,00348
,00415 
MISCELLANEOUS.
38£
  The correction in the table is expressed in 1000
parts of the distance betAveen the ftie-jing point
and the surface of the ice: e. g.  if the freezing
point  stands seven inches above the surface of the;
ice and the heat of the room is 62, the point of 32°
should be placed 7X00261, or 018 of an inch low-
er than the observed point.  A diagonal scale will
facilitate this correction.  In trying the heat ofthe
liquors care should be taken that the quicksilver in
the tube of the thermometer be heated to the same
degree as that in the ball; or if this cannot be done
conveniently, the observed heat should be correct-
ed on that account.
               Portable barometer.
  This instrument consists in general of a tube of
the usual  length, passing through  the upper parts
ofa Avooden cistern, to which it is glued, and the
bottom of which is  made of leather.   The tube
being filled  Avith mercury, w'.iich has been  previ-
ously well purged of air, and placed in  a  proper
position, the  superfluous mercury descends into
the cistern,  and assumes a level  in  tl e  tube cor-
responding  Avith the weight of the external air.
The surface of the mercury in the cistern is ad-
justed to the same level by a screw, which presses
more or less against the flexible leather at the bot-
tom, and raises or depresses it at pleasure.   From
the line of this level, which is called zero, the scale
commences and is reckoned upwards to the  height
of about 32 inches; the actual divisions ofthe scale
begin at about 15 inches.
             7 'o make portable glue.
   Take one pound of  the best glue, boil and strain
it very clear; boil  likewise four ounces of isinglass,
put it  in a double  glue-pot, with  hah a pound of
fine brown sugar, and boil it pretty thick;then pour
it into moulds; when  cold, cut and dry them in
small pieces.   This glue is very useful to draughts-
men,  architects, he. as it immediately dilutes in
warm water,  and fastens  the  paper without the
process of damping.
       To make glue that will resist moisture.
   Dissolve gum sandarac and  mastic, of each two
ounces, in a pint of spirit of wine, adding about an
ounce of clear turpentine.   Then take equal parts
of isinglass and parchment glue,  made according
 to the directions in the preceding article, and hav-
ing beaten the isinglass into small bits, and reduced
the glue to the ?ame state, pour the solution of the
gums  upon them,  and  melt the whole in a vessel
well covered, avoiding so great a heat as that of
 boiling  water.  When  melted,   strain  the glue
through a coarse linen cloth, and then put it again
over the fire,  adding about an ounce of powdered
glass.
■   This preparation may be best managed by hang-
ing the vessel in boiling water, which will prevent
the matter  burning to the vessel, or the spirit of
wine  from taking fire, and indeed it is better to
 use  the same  method for all the evaporations of
nicer  glues and sizes; hut, in that case, less water
than  the proportion directed,  should be added to
the materials.
                Another method.
   A very strong glue,  that will resist water, may
be also made by adding half a pound  of common
glue, or isinglass  glue, to two quarts of skimmed
milk, and then evaporating the mixture to the due
consistence of the glue.
             7 o make parchment glue.
   Take one pound of parchment, and boil it in six
quarts of water, till the quantity be reduced to one
quart; strain  off the fluid from the dregs, and then
boil it again till it be  of the consistence of  glue.
   The same may be done with glovers' cuttings of
leather, which make a colourless glue, if not burnt
in the evaporation of  the water
     2 Y
         A very strong compound glue.
  Take common glue in very small or thin bils,%nd
isinglass  glue:  infuse them in  as much spirit of
wine  as will cover them, for at least  twenty-four
hours.  Then melt the whole together, and, while
they are over the fire, add as much powdered chalk
as will render  them an opaque white.
  The infusion in the spirit of wine has been di-
rected in the recipes given for glue; but the remark
on the use of  it in one of the preceding  articles
will hold good also in this, and the mixture may be
made with water only.
            To make compound glue.
  Take very fine flour, mix  it with white of  eggs,
isinglass, and a little yeast;  mingle the  materials
beat them well together; spread them, the batter be-
ing made thin with gum-water,  on even tin plates,
and dry them in a stove, ther. cut them out  for use.
To colour them, tinge the paste with  Brazil, or
vermilion for red: indigo or verditer, &c. for blue;
saffron, turmeric  or gamboge, he. for yellow.
            To make isinglass glue.
  This is  made by dissolving  beaten isinglass in
water by boiling, and having strained  it through  a
coarse linen cloth, evaporating it again to such  a
consistence, that, being cold, the glue will be per-
fectly hard and dry.
   A great  improvement is  made  in this  glue by
adding spirit of wine or brandy after it is strained,
and then reneAving the  evaporation till it gains the
due consistence.
             To make isinglass size.
   This may also be prepared in the manner  above
directed for the glue, by increasing the proportion
of the water for dissolving it, and the same holds
good of parchment size. A better sort ofthe com-
mon  size may  be likewise made  by treating cut-
tings of glovers' leather in the  same manner.
              To make flour paste.
   Paste  is formed principally of  wheaten  flour
boiled in water till it be of a glutinous or viscid
consistence. It may be prepared with those ingre-
dients simply for  common  purposes;  but  when  it
is used by bookbinders, or for paper hangings to
rooms, it is usual to mix a fourth, fifth, or  sixth of
the  weight of the flour of poAvdered  resin; and
where it is Avanted still more tenacious, gum ara-
bic, or any kind of size may be added.
            To make  Chinese paste.
   Mix together bullock's blood and quick lime, ir
the  proportion of one  pound  ofthe  latter  to ten
pounds ofthe former.   It becomes a stiff jelly, in
which state it is sold to the  consumers, who beat
it down with an addition of water, into a state suf-
ficiently fluid for use.
              To weld tortoise shell.
   Provide a pair of pincers, the tongs of which
wid reach four inches  beyond the rivet Now file
the tortoise shell clean to a lap joint, carefully ob-
serving that there be no greise about it.   Wet the
joint with water;  apply the  pincers hot, following
them with water, and the shell will be found to be
joined, as if it were originally  the same piece.
           To  make cement  for metals.
   Take of gum mastic, 10  grains, rectified  spirit
of wine, 2 drachms. Add 2 ounces of strong isin-
glass glue, made with brandy, and 10 grains  of the
true gum ammoniac.  Dissolve all together, and
keep it stopped in a phial.   When intended to be
used, set it in  warm water.
           Mahogany coloured cement.
   Melt together two ounces of bees' wax and half
an ounce of Indian  red,  am' a small quantity of
yellow cchre,  to bring it to  the proper colour.
           To make red sealing wax.
   Take of shell-lac,  well powdered, two parts, of
resin and vernvlion, powdered, each,  1 part.  Mix
                                     2 //
<3? 
38G
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.   "
them well  together and melt them over a gentle
fire, and when the ingredients  seem thoroughly
incorporated, work the wax into sticks.   Where
shell-lac cannot be procured, seed-lac may be sub-
stituted for it.
  The quantity of vermilion may be diminished
without an)' injury to the sealing wax, where it is
not required to be ofthe highest and brightest red
colour; and the resin should be ofthe whitest kind,
as that improves the effect of the vermilion.
              Black sealing wax.
  Proceed as directed for the red Avax, only instead
of tne vermilion substitute the best ivory black.
              Green sealing wax.
  Proceed  as in  the above; only, instead of ver-
milion, use verdigris  ;-owdered;  or,  where the
colour is required to be bright, distilled or crystals
of verdigris.
               Blue sealing wax.
  As the above; only changing the vermilion for
smalt well powdered; or, for i light blue, verditer
may be used; as may also,  with  more advantage,
a mixture of  both.
              Yellow sealing wax.
  As the above; only substiluting masticot; or,
where a bright colour is desired, turpeth mineral,
instead of the vermilion.
             Purple sealing wax.
  As the red; only changing half the quantity of
vermilion for an equal or  greater proportion of
smalt,  according  as the  purple  is  desired  to be
bluer or redder.
         Uncoloured soft sealing wax.
  Take of bees' Avax,  1 lb.  turpentine, 3 oz. and
olive oil, 1 oz.
  Place them in a proper vessel over the fire, and
let them boil for some tiir.e,and the wax will be then
fit to be formed into rolls or cakes for use.
Red, black, green, blue, yellow and purple, soft
                 sealing wax.
  Add to the preceding composition, while boiling,
an ounce or more of any ingredients directed above
for  colouring the hard  sealing wax; and stir the
matter well about, till the colour be thoroughly
mixed  with the wax
  The proportion ofthe colouring ingredients may
be increased,  if the colour produced  by that here
given be not found strong enough.
           To cure smoky chimneys.
  The common causes of smoky chimneys are
either that the wind is too much let in above at the
mouth ofthe shaft, or else that the smoke is stifled
below; they may also proceed from there being too
little room in the vent,  particularly where several
open into the same funnel.   The situation of the
house may likewise affect them, especially if back-
ed by higher ground or higher buildings.
  The best method of cure is to carry from the air
a pipe under the floor and opening under the fire;
or when higher objects are the cause, to fix a move-
able cowl at the top of the chimney.
  In regard  to smoky chimneys, a few facts and
cautions may  be useful; and  a very simple remedy
may often  render the  calling in of masons and
bricklayers unnecessary.
  Observe that a northern aspect often produces a
smoky chimney.
  A single chimney is apter to smoke, than when
it forms part of a stack.
  Straight funnels seldom draw well.
  Large fire-places are apt to smoke, particularly
when the aperture of the funnel does not corres-
pond in size; for this a temporaiy remedy may be
found in opening a door or window—a permu.ient
cure by diminishing tne lower apertur3.
  When a smoky chimney is so  incorrigible? as to
require a constant admission of f. -sh air into the
 room, the best mode is to introduce a pipe, one ol
 whose apertures shall be in the open air, and thi
 other under the grate;  or openings may be iiiaih
 near the  top of the apartment, if lofty, wilhniii
 any inconvenience even to persons sitting close bj
 the fire.
   Tnis species of artificial ventilation will alwavs
 be found necessary for comfort where  gas is used
 internally, whether a fire is lighted or not.
   Where a chimney only smokes when a fire is
 first lighted, this may be guarded against by allow-
 ing the fire to kindle gradually; or more promptly
 by laying any inflammable substance, such as shav-
 ings, on  the top of the grate;  the rapid combus-
 tion of which will warm the air in  the chimney,
 and give  it'a tendency upwards, before any smoke
 is produced from the fire iiself.  If old stove-grates
 are apt to smoke, they may be improved  by setting
 the stove further bac!;.  If that fails, contract the
 lower orifice.
   In cottages, the shortness of the funnel or chim-
 ney may  pi educe smoke; in which case the  lower
 orifice must be  contracted as small as  possible by
 means of an upright register.
   If a kitchen chimi»3y overpowers that of the par-
 lour, as is often the case in small houses, apply to
 each chimney a free admission of air, until the evil
 ceases.
'   When  a chimney is filled with smoke, not of its
 own formation, but from the  funnel next to it,  an
 easy remedy offers in coA'ering eacii  funnel with a
 conical top, or earthen crock, not cylindrical,  but
 a frustrum of a cone;  by means of which the tAvo
 openings  are separated a few  inches,  and the cold
 air, or the g^sts of wind no longer force the tmoke
 down with them.
   If these remedies fail, it will be generally found
 that the chimney only smokes when the wind is ii.
 a particular quarter, connected  with '..he position
 of some higher  building, or  a  hill,  or grove  of
 trees.  In such  cases the common  lurn-cap,  as
 made by tinmen, and ironmongers, will generally
 be  found  fully adequate to the end proposed.   A
 case has occurred  of curing a smoky chimney ex-
 posed to   the N. W. wind, and command id by a
 lofty building on the S. E. by the following con-
 trivance.
   A painted tin cap  of a conical form  was sus-
 pended by a ring and swivel, so as to swing over
 the  mouth of the chimney-pot by means of  an
 arched strap or har of iron nailed on each side of
 the chimney.  When a gust of wind laid this cap
 (which from its  resemblance in form and use to an
 umbrella, is called a paravent or wind guard,)
 close to the pot  on one  side, it opened a  wider
 passage for the escape of the smoke on the oppo-
 site side,  whichever Avay the  wind came;  while
 rain, hail, he. were effectually prevented from de-
 scending  the flue.
               To clean chimneys.
   The top of each  chimney  s lould be furnished
 wilh a pot somewhat in the shape of a bell, under-
 neath the centre of which should be fixed a pulley,
 w;th a chain of sufficient length for both ends to
 be fastened, when not iu use,  to nails or pins in the
 chimney,  out of sight, but within  reach from
 below.    One or both of these ends  should  be
 adapted to the  reception of  a  brush of an appro-
 priate construction; and thus  chimneys may  be
 swept as often as  desired, by servants, with very
 little additional  trouble.
         Tn extinguish a chimney on fire.
   Shut the doors, and  windows, throw  water  on
 the  fire in the grate, and then stop up the bottom
 of the chimney.
                Another method.
   The mephitio vapour produced by throwing i 
MISCELLANEOUS.
387
handful of flour of sulphur on  the  burning coals,
where a chimney is on fire, will  immediately ex-
tinguish the flames.
            To cure dry rot in timber.
  Saturate the wood in a weak solution of cop-
peras, for joists, beams, rafters, and floorings; or
soak the wood in lime-Avater,  suffering-it to dry,
and then apply water, in which there is a weak so-
lution of vitriolic acid; or wash it wilh  a strong
solution of potash,  then with pyroligneous acid,
in which the oxyde of lead  or  iron has been  dis-
solved;  and finally, with alum water.
  A current of air under  a  floor will ahvays pre-
vent the dry rot, and stop it when it has commenced.
  In  boarding kitchens  and other  rooms on the
basement story, the planks should  be steeped  in a
strong solation of vitriol or  alum, and Avhen they
are dried, the side next to the earth should receive
a coat of tar, or common paint
       To preserve polished irons from rust.
  Polished iron-work may be preserved from  rust
oy  a mixture not  very expensive, consisting ot
copal varnish intimately mixed  with as much olive
oil as will give it a degree  of greasiness, adding
thereto nearly as much spirit of turpentine  as of
varnish.   The cast iron-work is best preserved by
rubbing it with black-lead.
   But where rust has begun to make its appearance
on grates or fire  irons, apply a mixture of tripoli,
with half fts quantity of sulphur, intimately min-
gled on a marble slab, and laid on with a piece of
soft leather:  or emery and oil may be applied with
excellent effect; not laid on  in the usual slovenly
way, but  with a spongy piece of the fig-tree fully
saturated with the  mixture.  This Avill not only
clean but polish, and render the  use of whiting
unnecessary.
          l'&'preserve brass  ornaments.
   Brass ornaments, when not gilt or lackered,  may
be cleaned in the same way,  and a fine colour  may
be given  to them by tAvo simple processes.  The
first is to beat sal ammoniac into  a fine  powder,
then to moisten it with soft  water, rubbing it on
the ornaments, which must  be heated over char-
coal, and rubbed dry with bran and whiting.   The
second is to wash the brass work with roche alum
boiled in strong ley, in the proportion of an ounce
to a pint; when dry it must  be rubbed  with  fine
tripoli.   Either  of these processes will give  to
brass the brilliancy of gold.
          To remove unpleasant odours.
   The ilnpleasant smell of new paint is best re-
moved  by time and atmospheric ventilation: but
tubs of water placed  in  the apartment,  will act
more rapidly; with this inconvenience, however,
that the gloss of the paint will be destroyed.  Un-
 pleasant Muells from water-closets, or all articles
of furniture connected with them, may be modi-
fied  by  the application of  lime water, to which
may be added the soap suds that have been used in
 washing, which neutralize the pungently offensive
 salts: a little quick-lime put into a night chair will
destroy all  disagreeable effluvia.
   Aromatic pastiles of the following  composition
may be burned with great  success: take ot cam-
phor, flowers of benzoin, powdered charcoal, pow-
 dered cascarilla bark, powdered  Turkey myrrh
 and  powdered nitre, each  equal  quantities;  bea
 them with  syrup  sufficient to form  a  mass, and
 divide into pastiles of a conical shape.  They may
 be mixed up with  spirit  of  turpentine (the recti-
 fied oil)  or any thing that is inflammable.  Syrup
 does best, as it is most adhesive.
                To ventilate rooms.
   To ventilate  a  room, carry a tin pipe from  its
 ceiling  a yard above  the  top of the room, and
another from the top through the floor, boring some
holes in the boards.
     To warm a carriage, or small apartment.
  Co'-vcy into it  a stone bottle of boiling water,
or for the feet a single glass hottle of boiled water
wrapped in flannel.
       'To prepare a cheap hortus siccus.
  All tlie smaller plants should be expanded under
water, in a plate, upon a piece of writing paper
sunk to the bottom.  In this state  they will assume
their natural form and position.   The paper, with
the plant upon  it, must  be withdrawn from the
water gently; and the plant and  paper afterwards
placed betwixt  two*or three sheets of blotting pa-
per, and  pressed with a book or  flat board.  It is
then to be laid up in a quire of blotting paper, un-
der pressure, for  a day or two,  when,  if dry,  it
may oe placed permanently upon  writing paper.
             To remove bugs, &c.
  The bedsteads  ought to be taken down three or
four times a  )'ear, the screws rubbed with pure
oil, and  a good  manual cleaning given to all its
parts.  This  plan, which has been slightly noticed
under the general head of cleanliness, will render
all poisonous mixtures unnecessary, besides savhig
all the trouble, filth, and expense  consequent upon
the use of those medicaments so much recommend-
ed by quacks, bug destroyers, he.
To drive away, or prevent the approach of cater-
                    pillars.
  Wrap up yellow or turpentine  soap in paper, or
place an  open bottle containing  spirits of turpen-
tine within the wardrobe.   But as the smell of the
latter  may be unpleasant, sprinkle bay leaves, or
worm-wood,  or lavender, or walnut leaves, or rue,
or black pepper in grains.
                To preserve furs.
   When laying up muff's and tippets for the sum
mer, if a tallow candle be placed on or near them
ail danger of caterpillars will be  obviated.
   Water-proof composition for leather or cloth.
   The new  patent water-proof  composition con-
sists bf the following materials:—Boil six gallons
of linseed oil, one pound and a half of rosin, four
pounds and a half of red lead,  litharge, or any
other  substance  usually called  dryers, together,
till they acquire such a consistence as to adhere to
the fingers in  strings Avhen cooled;  then remove
the mixture  from the fire, and  when sufficiently
cooled, thin it to the consistence of sweet oil, with
spirits of turpentine, of which it commonly takes
six gallons.  Leave it to  settle  for a day or two,
pour off the liquid from the grounds, and intimate-
ly mix with it one pound  and a half of ivory or
lamp black, and  one pound and a half of Prussian
blue, ground in  linseed oil.  The composition is
then ready to be used on  any kind of leather or
cloth.  Stir up the liquid and apply it Avith a brush
till an even gloss is produced; hang up the mate-
rial acted upon  till  the next day, taking care to
 leave the surface as even as possible,  and  proceed
 in the same  manner till it has the desired appear-
 ance.
               To preserve clothes.
   As clothes,  when laid up for a time, acquire an
 unpleasant odour, which requires considerable ex-
 posure to the atmospheric air, it  will be prevented
 by laying recently made charcoal between the folds
 of the garments; and even when  the odour has
 taken place, the  charcoal will absorb it.
      To remove stains from mourning dresses.
   Boid  a good handful of fig leaves in two quarts
 of water till  reduced to a pint.  Bombazine, crape,
 cloth, &c. need only be rubbed with a sponge dip-
 ped in the liquor, and the effect  will be instantly
 produced. 
388
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK
               To clean gold lace.
  tiold lace is easily cleaned and  restored  to its
original brightness by rubbing it with a soft brush
dipped in roche alum  burnt, sifted to a verv fine
powder.
            To clean china and glass.
  The best material for cleaning either porcelain
or glass ware is fuller's earth, but it must be beaten
into a fine powder and carefully cleared  from all
rough or hard particles, which might endanger the
polish of  the brilliant surface.
         To explore unventilatedplaces.
  Light  some  sheets of brown- paper  and throw
into the well or cavern; also fix a long pipe to a
pair of bellows and blow for some time into the
place.
           To avoid injury from bees.
  A wasp or bee swallowed may be killed before it
can do harm, by taking  a tea spoonful of common
salt  dissolved  in  water.  It kills the  insect, and
c\.res the sting.  Salt at all times  is the best cure
for external stings; sweet oil, pounded mallows, or
onions, or powdered chalk made into a paste with
water, are also efficacious.
  If bees swarm upon the head, smoke tobacco and
hold an empty hive over the head, and they will
enter it.
        To raise w^t.er in all situations.
  The finest springs  may be  formed by boring,
which is performed in the simplest manner, by the
mere use of an iron rod, forced into the earth by a
windlass.   The workmen in  a few days get to a
genuine spring of pure water, fit for  every pur-
pose.  After the water  is found, they merely put
tin pipes down the aperture, and it preserves a fine
stream which sometimes rises from four to five feet
high.
           To keep up sash windows.
  This is performed by  means of cork,  in the sim-
plest manner,  and with  scarcely  any  expense.
Bore three or four holes in the sides of the sash,
into  which insert common bottle corks, projecting
about the sixteenth  part of an inch.  These will
press against the window frames, along  the  usual
groove, and by their elasticity support the sash at
any height which may  be required.
        To write for the use ofthe blind.
  Let an iron pen be used, the point of which is
not  split.  Blind persons writing without ink, and
pressing on a strong paper, will produce characters
in relief,  which they can immediately read,  by
passing their fingers over the projecting charac-
ters, on the opposite side of the paper, in the con-
trary direction.
             To freeze quicksilver.
  Crystallized muriate of lime and snow may be
used as frigorifie ingredients for  this  purpose.
Four ounces of mercury in a retort immersed in a
mixture of snow and muriate of lime, the degree
of cold being 50 degrees, were fixed, in an experi-
ment, in fifteen minutes.  In another experiment,
the  external  temperature being 33 degrees, the
quantity of 56  lbs. avofrdupoise, of mercury in-
closed  in  a bladder, was completely fixed  in the
same mixture, in an hour and forty minutes.
            To clean boots and shoes.
  Good brushes and blacking are indiopensably ne-
cessary.   First remove all the loose dirt with a
wooden knife, and never use a sharp steel one, as
the leather is too  often cut, and the boots and shoes
spoiled.   Then take the hard nrush and brush off
the remainder, and all the dust; they must also be
quite dry  before blacking or they will  not shine.
Do not put on too much blacking at a time, for, if
it dries before using the shining brush, the leather
will look brown  instead cf black.  If there are
boot-trees, never clean either boots or shoes with-
  out them; but take care that the trees are always
  kept clean and  free from dust.  Never put one
  shoe within another: and when cleaning ladies'
  boots or shoes be careful to have clean hands, that
 ! the linings may not get soiled.  Always  stir the
  blacking up well before using  it,  put it  on the
 i brush with a piece of sponge tied  to the end  of a
  small cane, and keep it corked when done with it,
  as it gets  spoiled by  being exposed to the air.
  Always scrape off the dirt Avhen wet from boots or
  shoes; but never place them too near the fire when
  dry, as that cracks the leather.
    There are various  ways of cleaning boot tops.
  In all cases, however, the tops are  done the last;
  great care therefore is necessary that the bottoms
  do not get  dirtied whilst the tops are doing.  To
  prevent this, take a piece of parchment ..nil cover
  the  top part  of the  boot whilst the' leg of it is
  cleaning, find afterwards the leg part whilst the top
  is cleaning.  Directions for  mixtures proper for
  this purpi se, as also for rendering leather water-
  proof, and  for making blacking, will be  found by
  referring to the index.
            To clean knives and forks.
    Procure a smooth board, free from knots, or one
  covered with leather.  If the latter, melt  a suffi-
  cient quantity of mutton suet, and put  it hot upon
  the leather with a piece of flannel; then take two
  pieces of  soft  Bath brick,  and rub  them  one
  against the otlier over the leather till it is covered
  with the powder, which rub in until  no  grease
  comes through  when a knife is passed over the
 I leather, which may easily be known by the knife
  keeping its polish.
    If only a plain board, rub the  Bath brick two or
  three times over it; for if too  much  be  put on at
  once it will make the blades of the^ knives look
  rough and scratched.  Let the board Be of a proper
  height, and set so that the person  may be a little
  on the stoop while  cleaning  the knives.  Take a
  knife in  each hand,  holding them back to back;
  sland opposite the  middle of the  board;  lay the
  knives flat upon it, and do not bear too hard upon
  them; by this  method it will  be easier to clean tivo
  knives at a time than  one,  and they will  be less
  liable to be broken, for good knives will snap when
  pressed on too heavily.  Many  will  say that they
  cannot clean two knives at once, or that they can
  get through them faster one by one; but if they
  will only try it a few  times in the way recommend-
  ed, they will find it  not  only much more expedi-
  tious, but easier.
    Be careful in keeping a good edge on the knives.
  Carving knives in particular ought to be kept sharp,
  which may easily be  done by taking one in  each
 ! hand, back to  back when cleaning, scarcely letting
 | them touch  the  board when  expanding the arms,
 j but when drawing the hands together again Oearing
  a little hard on the  edge of the knives; this  will
,  give them both a good edge and  a fine polish, and
  is much better than sharpening them with a steel.
    The best way to clean steel forks is to till a small
  oyster barrel with fine gravel, brick-dust, or sand,
  mixed with a little  hay or moss:  make it meder-
  alely damp, press it well down,  and let it  always
  be kept damp.  By running the prongs  of the
  steel forks a few times into this, all the stains on
  them will be removed.   Then have a small stick,
  shaped like a  knife, with leather round it to polish
  between the  prongs, ike. having  first  carefully
  brushed off the dust from them as soon as they are
  taken out ofthe tub.  A knife board is often spoil-
  ed by cleaning  forks upon  it,  and likewise  the
  backs ofthe knives: to prevent this have a piece of
  old  hat or  leather put  on  the  board where the
  forks and backs ofthe knives are cleaned.
    Always turn the  back of the knives towards th« 
nalm ot the hand  in  wiping them, this will pre-
vent all danger from cutting.  In wiping the forks
put the corner of the cloth between the prongs, to
remove any dirt or dim that may not have been
thoroughly brushed out; and if there should be sil-
ver ferules on the knives and forks, or silver han-
dles, they must be rubbed with a piece of  leather
and  plate p .wder, keeping the blades  covered
while the handles are cleaning.
  Wipe the knives and forks as soon as possible
after being used, as the longer  they are left with
grease and stains on them the harder they will be
to clean;  particularly if they have  been used for
acids, salads, tarts, he.  have then a jug of hot wa-
ter ready to put them into  as soon as done with,
and  wipe thein as  before directed.
  In order to keep knives and forks in good con-
■dition when they are not in  use, rub the steel part
with a flannel dipped in oil; wipe the oil oft" after
a few hours,  as there is often water in it; or dust
the blades and prongs with quick lime, finely pow-
dered, and kept in a muslin bag.
        To clean plate and plated articles.
  The plate ought to be free from grease; wash it,
therefore, in  boiling water, and if it  have rough
edges, brush it well before  beginning  to clean it.
The leathers should be soft  and  thick;  the sponge
well soaked in water before using it.  Use the
plate powder, or whiting, either wet or dry; if wet
do not put it on too much plate at once;  rub it, if
plain, with the tare hand;  small articles,  such as
spoons and forks,  can be done  between the finger
and  thumb.   The longer plate is rubbed the bet-
ter it will look;  when done  enough  brush the whi-
ting or powder from out ofthe crevices and crests
of the plate, and from between  the prongs of the
forks very carefully.   Be careful also not to rub
the salt and tea-spoons and otlier small articles too
hard, lest they should break or bend. Keep a clean
leather to finish  rubbing the plate with,  after it is
brushed, and let it be dusted with a linen cloth be-
fore it is put upon the table.
  Plated articles require even more care than sil-
ver ones; they should be cleaned with soft brushes,
not too often,  and never with any thing  but plate
powder,  not even whiting  by  itself;  do not Avet
thein more than can be helped or they will tarnish;
nor  brush them more than is necessary, or the sil-
ver  will come off;  the best thing for them is spirit
of wine or oil;  and  take care that  no plated arti-
cles remain long dirty or damp,  for if they do they
will rust in case they are plated on  steel, and can-
ker  if plated on copper.
  Wash the brushes after the plate is cleaned with
warm water and soap, do them quickly, and then
set them to dry, with the wooden side uppermost,
as that takes the most drying, and the bristles are
apt to come out if the wood remain long wet
            'J'o trim and clean lamps.
  If they only want cleaning, pour in  boiling wa-
ter,  with a little pearl-ash,  and shake  it well: it
the gummy part will not come away, scrape it care-
fully oft", with a wooden or steel knife; then take
the lamp to pieces and clean every part thorough-
ly.   There are generally two or three small holes
in the common brass lamps, to admit the air;  be
particular in keeping them open with a pin, or a
piece of wire, as otherwise the  lamp will  smoke,
and  not give  a good light.
  Ihe patent lamps are more difficult to clean.
Take them entirely to pieces and use nothing but
boiling water and pearl-ash.  When the pan which
holds the oil is  thoroughly  washed, wipe it quite
dry  with an old cloth, and put it upside down near
the fire to take off the damps; let every other part
be done the same.  Flannel and soap  are  best to
use  for the outside of the  lamp.   Be careful  in
.ANEOUS.                                 389

  cleaning the chimneys of the patent lamps;  and
  also that part which receives the droppings of oil;
  for if they are not kept clean and free for the air to
  go through, the lamp will never burn well.
    Keep the cottons always clean and dry, as well
  as the stick to put them on.  Choose them of a fair
  thicki.ess; not  loose, but tight woven, firm and cut
  even:  do not get too much oil at onu;,  as it loses
  its goodness by keeping.  Cut the cottons even,
  and fill the lamps with oil when trimming them;
  but not so as to run over.  When fresh cottons are
  put in let the oil  down, so that they may get well
  soaked, after which put up the part that keeps the
  oil up.  Have  a tin pot with a long spout  to put
  the oil in with,  to prevent  spil'ing.    Clean the
  glass with a damp sponge dippeo in whiting;  rub
  it well, but not hard, with a cloth or  solt leather,
  and finish it with a clean linen cloth, or silk hand-
  kerchief. If the brass part of the glass lamp wants
  cleaning, use soap and flannel, and  let them all be
  dusted eveiy day, before lighting  them.  If the
  patent lamps be lighted up eveiy evening,  they
  should be emptied Oi.ee a week; do not put the oil
  that comes from them into the jar with the best oil,
  but keep it separate to burn in the common  lamps.
    In  cold weather  warm the oil,  by putting the
  lamps near the hall fire, just before lighting them:
  but be careful  in carrying them about the house,
  for fear of spilling  the oil.   When lighting them
  do not raise the cotton up too high  or too quickly,
  so as to smoke  or crack  the glasses.  In frosty
  weather in particular, the glasses  are very easily
  broken by a sudden transition from cold to heat.
  Raise the cottons therefore,  gradually, and let the
  glass get warm by  degrees.   Use  wax-tapers, or
  matches without  brimstone for lighting them; but
  not paper.  If any doubt arises as to  the lamps
  burning well,  light them a  little  before they are
  wanted.
         To clean  candlesticks and snuffers.
    If  silver or plated, care must be taken that they
  are not scratched in getting oft" the wax or grease:
  therefore never use a knife  for that purpose, noi
  hold them before the fire to melt the wax or grease,
  as in general the hollow part of the candlesticks,
  towards the bottom, is filled with a composition
  that will melt  if made too hot.  Pour boiling wa-
  ter over them; this will  take all  the grease off
  without injury  if wiped directly with an old cloth,
  and save the brushes from being greased: let them
  in all other respects be cleaned like the re tt of the
  plate.
    If japanned  bed-room  candlesticks, never hold
  them near the fire, or scrape them with a knife;
  the  best way is to pour water upon them just hot
  enough to melt the grease; then wipe them with a
  cloth, and if they  look smeary,  sprinkle  a  little
  whiting, or flour upon them, and rub it clean off.
    Be  very particular in  cleaning the patent  snuf-
  fers, as they go Avith a spring,  and are easily  bro-
  ken.   The part which shuts up the snuffing has in
  general a small hole in it, where a  pin can be put,
  to keep it open while cleaning it; be sure to have
  them  well cleaned, that  the snuff' may not  drop
  about when using them.   The extinguishers like-
  wise must be well cleaned in the inside, and be put
  ready with the snuffers, that the candlesticks  may
  not be taken up without them.
    If  the sockets of the  candlesticks be  too large
  for the candles, put a piece of paper round the end,
  but do not let it be seen above the nozzle of the
  candlestick.  Be  particular in putting ihem in
  straight, and having clean hands, that they may not
  be dirtied.  Always  light the candles to burn off
  the  cotton, before setting them up; but leave the
  ends long enough to be lighted with ease, when
  wanted.
                                    2 H2 
590
UNIVERSAL
RECEIPT BOOK.
               To clean furniture.
   Keep the paste or oil in a proper can or jar, that
 ihe re  may be  no danger of upsetting when using
 it.   Have  two pieces of woollen cloth,  one for
 rubbing  it  on, the  other for rubbing it dry and
 polishing;  also an,old linen  cloth to finish Avith,
 and  a piece of smooth  soft 'cork to rub out the
 stains: use a brush if the paste  be hard.  Always
 dust the table well before the oil or paste is put on;
 and  if it should be  stained, rub it with  a damp
 sponge,  and then with a dry  cloth.  If the  stain
 does not disappear, rub it well with a cork or a
 brush the way the Avood grows; for if rubbed cross-
 grained,  it will be sure  to scratch it.  Be careful
 to keep  the cork  and brush  free from  dust  and
 dirt.   When the dust is cleaned off and the stains
 have been got out, put on the  oil or paste, but not
 too much at a time;  rub  it well  into the wood; if
 oil, be as quick as possible in  rubbing it over the
 table, and then  polish it with another woollen cloth.
 If wax, put a little bit on the  woollen  cloth, Avith
 the finger,  or a small stick; rub it Avell with  this
 till the table has a high poi.sh, then  have another
 cloth to  finish it with.   Be veiy careful to  have
 the  edges  of the table well cleaned, and the oil
 and  wax Avell rubbed off.
   The furniture which is not in  constant use  will
 not require to be oiled above once a Aveek:  it ought,
 however, to be  dusted every day and well rubbed.
 Tables Avhich are used daily must be well rubbed
 eveiy moroing, and great care shou4d be taken to
 remove all  spots from them particularly ink:  this
 can very easily be done, if not left to dry long, by
 putting on a little salt of lemons  wilh the finger.
   When cleaning tables or chairs, be careful to re-
 move them into ihe middle of the room, or  at a
 distance from the wall.   If the sideboard, or side-
 table is fixed to the Avail, be still more careful in
 cleaning it, and roll  up the woollen cloth tight in
 the hand, and into a  small compass.
      To clean  looking-glasses, mirrors, &c.
  If they shoidd be hung so high that they cannot
 be conveniently reached, have a pair of steps to
 stand upon; but mind that they stand steady. Then
 take a piece of soft sponge, well washed and clean-
 ed from every  thing gritty, just dip it into water
 and squeeze it out again,  and then dip it into some
 spirit of wine.   Rub it over the glass; dust it over
 with some powder blue, or whiting sifted  through
 muslin; rub it  lightly and quickly off again, with
a clot.: then take a  clean cloih, and rub it well
again, and finish by rubbing it with a silk handker-
 chief.
  If" the glass  be very large,  clean one half  at a
time, &s otherwise  the spirit of wine will dry be-
fore  it can  be  rubbed off'.  If the frames are not
 varnished, the greatest care is necessary  to keep
them quite  dry, so  as not to touch them with  the
 sponge, as this will discolour or take off" the gilding.
  To clean the frames, take a little raw cotton in
the state of wool, and rub the frames with it; this
 will  take oft" all the dust and dirt without injuring
the gilding.   If the frames are well varnished,  rub
thpm with spirit of Avine, which will take out all
 spots,  and  give them a  fine  polish.   Varnished
doors may  be done in the same manner.   Never
use any cloth to frames, or drawings, or unvarnish-
 ed  oil  paintings, when cleaning and  dusting
them.
                To brush clothes.
  Have a wooden horse to put  the clothes on, and
a small cane to  beat  the  dust out of thein; also a
board or table long enough for them to be put Iheir
whole  length  Avhen  brushing  them.   Have  two
brushes, one a hard bristle, the other soft; use the
hardest for  the  great  coats, and for the others when
spotted with dirt  Fine cloth coats should never
 be brushed Avith too hard a brush, as this will take
 oft" the nap, and make  them  look bare in a little
 time.   Be  careful in the choice of the cane; do
 not have it too large, and  be  particular not to hit
 too hard; be careful also not to hit the buttons, for
 it will scratch if not break them;  therefore a small
 hand-whip is the best to beat with.
   If a coat be wet and  spotted with dirt, let it be
 quite dry before brushing it; then rub out the spots
 with the hands, taking  care not to rumple  it in s>o
 doing.  If it want beating, do it as before directed,
 then put the coat at its  full length  on a board; let
 the collar be tOAvards the left  hand, .and  the brush
 in ^he right: brush the  back ofthe collar first, be-
 tween the two shoulders next, and then the sleeves,
 &c. observing to brush  the cloth the same way that
 the nap goes, which is towards the skirt of the coat
 When both sides are properly done, fold Ihem to-
 gether; then brush the  inside, and last of all the
 collar.
         To take out grease from clothes.
   Take off the grease with the nail, or if that can-
 not be done, have a hot iron with some thick brown
 paper; lay the paper on the part where the grease
 is, then put the  iron upon the  spot; if the grease
 comes through the paper, put on another piece, till
 it does not soil the  paper. If not all  out, Avrap a
 little bit of cloth or flannel round the finger, dip it
 into spirit  of Avine,  and rub the grease  spot; this
 will take it entirely out.   Be  careful not to have
 the iron too hot; try it first on a piece of white pa-
 per; if it turn the paper brown, or scorch it in the
 least, it is too hot.  If paint should  get  on the
 coats,  always nave  spirit of wine or turpentine
 ready, this Avith a piece of flannel or cloth will easi-
 ly take it off, if not left to get quite dry.
             To pack glass or china.
   Procure some soft straw or hay to pack them in,
 and if they are to be sent a long way, and are hea-
 Ay, the hay or straw should be a little damp, which
 will prevent them "slipping about.  Let the largest
 and heaviest things be always put undermost in the
 box or hamper.  Let there be plenty of straw, and
 pack the articles tight;  but never attempt to pack
 up glass or china which is of much consequence,
 till it has been seen done  by some one used to the
job.   The  expense will be but trifling to have a
 person  to do it who understands it, and the loss
 may be great if articles of such value are packed
 up in an improper manner.
            To  clean wine decanters.
   Cut some brown  paper into very small bits, so
 as to go with ease into the decanters;  then cut  a
 few pieces of soap very small, and put some water,
 milk warm, into the decan'.ers, upon the soap and
 paper; put in also a little pearl-ash; by well work-
 ing this about in the decanters, it will take off the
 crust of the wine and give the glass a fine  polish.
 Where the decanters have been scratched, and the
 wine left to stand in them a longtime, have a small
 cane with a  bit of sponge tied  tight at one end; by
 putting this  into the decanter, any crust of the
 wine may be removed.   When the decanters have
 been  properly  washed,' let them  be  thoroughly
 dried, and turned doAvn  in a proper rack.
  If the decanters have wine  in them, when put
 by, have some good corks always at hand to put in
 instead of stoppers;  this will keep the wine much
 better.
                To  decant wine.
  Be careful not to shake or disturb the cruet when
 moving it about  or drawing the cork, particularly
 port wine.   Never decant wine  without a  wine
 strainer, with some fine cambric in  it to prevent
 the crust and bits of cork going into the decanter.
 In decanting port wine do not drain it too near;
 there are generally two-thirds of a wine  glass of 
MISCELLANEOUS.
391
thick dregs in each bottle, which ought not to be
put in: but in white winetheie is not much  set-
tling; pour it out  hoAvever slowlv, and  raise the
bottle up gradually; the wine should never be de-
canted in a hurry, therefore always do it before the
family sit down  to  dinner.  Do not jostle Ihe de-
canters against each other when moving them about,
as they easily break when full.
               To clean tea trays.
  Do not pour  boiling water over them, particu-
larly on japanned ones, as it will make the varnish
crack and pael off; but have a sponge wetted with
warm  water  and a little soap if the tray be very
dirty; then rub it with a cloth;  if it looks smeary,
dust on a little flour,  then rub it  with a dry cloth.
If the paper  tray  gets marked,  take a piece of
woollen cloth, with a little SAveet oil, and rub it
over  the  marks, if any thing will take them out
this will.  Let the urn be emptied  and the top
wiped dry, particularly the outside,  for if any wet
be suffered to dry on  it will leave a mark.
      To wash and clean gentlemen's gloves.
   Wash them in soap and  water till the dirt is got
 out, then stretch them  on  wooden hands, or pull
 them  out in their proper shape.  Never wring
 them, as that puts them out of form, and makes
 them shrink; put them one upon another and press
 the water out.  Then rub the following mixture
 over the outside of the gloves.   If wanted  quite
 yellow,  take yellow  ochre; if quite  white,  pipe
 clay;  if between the  two,  mix a little of each to-
 gether.   By  proper  mixture  of these any shade
 may be produced.  Mix  the colour with Leer or
 vinegar.
    Let them  dry gradually, not too near the fire nor
 in too hot a  sun; when they are about half dried
 rub them well, and stretch them out to keep them
 from shrinking, and  to soften them.  When they
 are well rubbed and dried, take a small cane and
 beat them, then brush them;  when this is  done,
 iron them rather warm, with a piece of paper over
 them, but do not let  the iron be too hot
                  7 o warm beds.
    Take  all  the black or blazing coals  out of the
 pan,  and scatter  a  little salt  over the remainder:
 this will prevent the smell of sulphur, so disagree-
  able to delicate persons.
       To bring torses out of a stable on fire.
    Throw the harness or saddles to which they may
  have been accustomed, over the backs of the horses
  in this predicament, and they will come out of the
  stable as tractably as usual.
          To  manage  water pipes in winter,
then put a hot iron upon it till drv.  If all the oil
should not come out the first time, do it  again;
and in putting it on, let it be  well rubbed into the
stone.   By doing it two or three times in this way
it will come out.
            'To get  oil out of  boards.
  Mix together fuller's  earth  and soap lees, and
rub it into the boards.  Let it dry and then scour
it off with some strong soft soap and sand,  or use
lees to scour it with.  It should be put on  hot,
which may easily be done, by heating  the lees.
               Tb preserve huts.
  Hats require great care or  they will soon look
shabby.  Brush them with a soft camel-hair brush,
this will keep ihe fur  smooth.  Have a  stick for
each hat to keep it in its  proper shape, especially
if the hat has got wet:  put the  stick in as soon as
the hat is taken off, and when dry put it into a hat
box, particularly if not in constant use, as the air
and dust soon turn hats brown.  If the ha* is very
wet, handle  it as lightly as  possible;  wipe it dry
with a cloth, or silk handkerchief; then brush it
with the soft brush.  If the fur sticks so close when
almost dry, that  it cannot be  got loose with the
soft brushes, then use the hard ones;  but if the fur
still sticks, damp it a little with a sponge  dipped
in  beer or vinegar; then  brush  it with a hard brush
till dry.
           To make gas  from coal-tar.
   It has been found by experiment, that the coal-
 tar liquor, which is sometimes considered as waste
 by those  who  make gas, if  mixed with dry saiv-
 dust, exhausted logwood,  or fustic, to the consis-
 tence of paste, and allowed to remain till the Avater
 has drained off; two CAvt. of the mass, being  put
 into the retort instead of coal, will produce  more
 gas, and be less offensive.
               To walk on water.
    An exhibition called walking on water, has been
 exhibited by Mr Kent at Glasgow.  The apparatus
 is represented in an engraving; where a. b. c. are
 three hollow  tin cases, of the form  of an oblong
 hemispheroid, connected  together by three iron
 bars, at the meeting of  which is a seat for the ex-
 hibitor.  These cases, filled with air, are of such
 magnitude that they can easily support his weight,
 and as a. b. and a. c. are about ten feet and b. c.
 about eight feet, he floats very  steadily upon the
  water.  Ihe feet of the exnibitor rest on stirrups,
  and he attaches to his shoes, by leather belts, two
  paddles, d. e.  which turn on a joint Avhen he brings
  his foot forward to take  the  stroke, and keep a
  vertical position when he draAvsit back against the
  resisting water; by the alternate action of his feet
  When the frost begins to set in, cover the water                                         ,«■«,.
pipes with hay or straw bands, twisted tight round |l he is thus enabled  to  advance at  the rate ot bve
them.  Let the cisterns and water-butts be washed   miles an hour.
out occasionally; this will keep the water pure and

  In pumping up water into  the  cistern for the
water-closet, be v -y particular, in winter time, as
in general the pipes go up the outside of the house.
Let all the water be let out ofthe pipe when done
pumping; but if this is forgotten, and it should be
frozen, take a small gimblet and bore a hole in the
pi ,e a little distance from  the place where it is
lei off, which will prevent its bursting.  Put a peg
into tlie hole when the  water is let off.   Pump the
water up into the cistern for the closet every morn-
ing and once a week take a pailot water, and  cast
it into  the basin,  having first opened the trap at
the bottom; this will clear the soil out ofthe pipe.
To extract lamp-oil out of stone or marble hails,
                      &c.
   Mix well together a pint of  strong soap  lees,
some fuller's earth  well dried and a little pipe clay,
pounded fine; andlay it on the part which is oiled;
To obtain the fragrant essences from the fresh rinds
            of citrons, oranges, &c.
  Procure as many fresh citrons as will sispply tne
required stock of essence; after cleaning off any
speck in the outer rinds of the fruit,  break off a
large piece of loaf sugar and rub the  citron on it
till the yellow rind is completely absorbed.  Those
parts of the  sugar which are impregnated with the
essence are from time to time to be cut away with
a knife, and put in an earthen dish.  The whole
being thus  taken off, the  sugared essence is to
be closely pressed, and put by in pots; where it is to
be squeezed  down hard; have a bladder over the
paper by which it is  covered, and tied tightly up.
It is at any time fit for use, and will keep for many
years.  . [Exactly  in the same manner  may be ob-
tained and preserved, at the proper seasons, from
the  fresh fruits, the essences  of the  rinds of Se-
ville oranges, lemons,  bergamots,  Sec]   This
mode of extracting and preserving these essences 
RECEIPT BOOK.
302                           UNIVERSAL R

is superior to the common practices of peeling,
rasping,  or grating off Ihe rind,  and afterwards
mixing it up with powdered sugar, he.
To ascertain the proportion of alcohol in  wines,
     beer, cider, and other spirituous liquors.
  To 100 parts in volume ol the liquid to be tried,
add 12 parts of the solution of  sub-acetate  of lead
(prepared as directed below:) a precipitation en-
sues, which by a  slight agitation is rendered gene-
ral.  On filtering, a colourless  liquid containing
the alcohol is procured.  By mixing with this dry
and warm  carbonate of potass, (calcined  pearl-
ash) as long as it is  dissolved,  the water is sepa-
rated from the alcohol.   The latter is seen floating
above in  a well marked  stratum;  the quantity ot
which can be estimated at once,  in a measure tube.
  To prepare the  solution of sub-acetate of  lead.
  Boil 15  parts of pulverized (and calcined)  li-
tharge, with 10 of acetate of lead,  in 200 of Avater,
for 20 minutes, anu concentrate the liquid by slow
evaporation to one half; it  must be  kept in well-
corked phials, quite full.
To determine, whether wheat  flour, or bread be
             adulterated with chalk.
  Mix with the flour to be  tried, a little sulphuric
acid; if chalk or  whiting be present, an efferves-
cence (arising from the discharge of the carbonic
acid ofthe  chalk) will take place; but if the flour
be pure,  no effervescence is produced.
               Another method.
  Pour boiling Avater on some slices of bread,  and
then pour into the water a little  sulphuric acid; if
there be any chalk in the bread, an  effervescence
will ensue as before; but  if none be in it, no effer-
vescence  will take place.
            Chemical tests—for gold.
  To a diluted colourless solution of nitro-mur'p-
ate of*gold  add a few drops ofa solution of any salt
of tin—or stir the solution  of gold with a  slip of
metallic  tin; in either case,  the production  of a
beautiful purple  or port wine colour will  be the
immediate  result.  If the  mixture is allowed to
settle,  it becomes  colourless,  a  purple powder
(which is an oxide of gold  combined with a little
tin) being precipitated.  This powder is employed
in the painting of china, and is called the  purple
precipitate  of Cassius.
                  For silver.
  Let fall a drop of a solution of nitrate of silver
into a glassful of  water, and add to  it a grain of
common  salt.  Mutual decomposition of the salts
will take place, and muriate of silver (in the form
ofa white powder) will be precipitated.
                  For copper.
  Add a  few drops ofa solution  of nitrate of cop-
per to a  test glass of water—the mixture will be
colourless;  pour into it a  little  liquid ammonia—
the mixture will then assume  a  fine deep blue
colour.
         To preserve pictures from decay.
  To strengthen a decayed canvas  and to preserve
sound canvas from decaying, let  the back of every
picture receive two or three good thick coats of
white  lead, or whatever other  cheap pigment is
most recommendable for tenacity and strength. In
pictures  which may henceforth be  produced every
painter should take care to have  his canvas well
backed with a strong coating of piint, previously
to its being nailed to the  frame, to secure it in
every  pari from  damp,  mould,  and mildew.   In
consequence of this precaution,  his piece may be
preserved  one or two centuries longer than  any
other contemporary pictures whose backs  are na-
ked canvas.
             To prepare soda water.
  Soda water is prepared (frompowders) precisely
in the same manner as ginger  beer, except  that,
 instead of the two powders there mentioned, the
 two following are used: for one glass 30 grains of
 carbonate of  soda, for the otlier 25 grains of tarta-
 ric (or citric) acid.
         To prepare ginger beer powders.
   Take 2drachmsoff5ne loaf sugar, 8 grains of gin-
 ger, and 26 grains of carbonate of potass, all in fine
 poAvder; mix them intimately in a Wedgwood's Avare
 mortar.  Take also 27 grains  of citric or tartaric
 acid, (the first  is the pleasantest  but the  last the
 cheapest).  The  acid is to be  kept separate from
 the mixture.  The beer is prepared from the pow-
 ders thus: take two tumbler glasses, each half filled
 with water,  stir up the compound powder in one
 of them, and the  acid  powder in the other, then
 mix the two liquors; an effervescence takes  place.
 the beer is prepared and  may be drank oft".
   The effervescence is occasioned by the discharge
 of the carbonic  acid of the carbonate of potass.   If
 the beer is allowed to  stand for a few minutes  it
 becomes flat; this is owing  to its having lost all its
 carbonic acid.  The cost of these poivders is eight-
 pence a dozen sets.
    To determine whether water be hard or soft.
   To ascertain  whether or  not water be fit for do-
 mestic purposes,  to a glassful  of the water  add a
 few drops of the solution of soap in alcohol.   If the
 water be pure it will  continue limpid, if  impure,
 white flakes will be formed.
      7 'o detect  copper in pickles or green tea.
   Put  a few leaves of the tea,  or some of the
 pickle, cut small, into a phial with 2 or 3 drachms
 of lirjid ammonia, diluted with cne half the quan-
 tity of water.   Shake the phial, when, if  the most
 minute portion of copper  be  present, the  liquid
 will assume a fine blue colour.
              7 'o make patent cement.
   A mixture of lime, clay, and oxide of  iron, se-
 parately calcined  and reduced  to fine powder, are
 to be intimately mixed.  It must be kept in close
 vessels and mixed with the requisite quantity of
 water when used.  This cement is useful for coat-
 ing the joinings ofthe wood of which the pneuma-
 tic trough is composed, in order to render it water
 tight; and for other purposes ofa like nature.
              'J'o preserve phosphorus.
i   Keep it in  places wiiere  neither light  nor heat
 has access.  It  is obtained from druggists in rolls
 about the thickness ofa qui-U; these are put into a
 phial filled with cold water, which has been boiled
 to expel air from it, and the phial is inclosed in an
 opaque case.
              To make gunpowder.
   Pulverize  separately 5  drachms of nitrate  of
 potass, 1 of sulphur, and 1 of newly burnt charcoal.
 Mix  them together with a little water in a mortar,
 so as to make the compound into a dough,  which
 must be rolled  out into round pieces the thickness
 ofa pin, between two boards.  Lay a few of these
 pieces together and cut then  wilh a knife into
 small grains, which are to be placed on a sheet ot
 paper in a warm place to-dry.  During granulation
 the dergh must be prevented slicking lo the board
 by rubbing on it a little of the dry compound pow-
 der.   The explosion  takes place in consequence
 of the  generation of a large  quantity of various
 gases.
          To produce instantaneous light.
   Put a litlle phosphorus, dried on blotting paper,
 into a small phial, heat the phial by placing it in a
 ladle of hot  sand, and turn it round  so  that the
 melted phosphorus may adhere to ils sides.  Cork
 the phial closely and it is prepared.
                    Another.
   Mix  one part of flower of sulphur with eight
 parts of phosphorus.  On putting  a  common sul-
| phur match into ibis fire bottle, stirring it about a 
MISCELLANEOUS.
393
   little and then withdrawing it into the air it will
   take fire.  Sometimes, however,  it is found ne-
   cessary to rub the match, when withdrawn  from
   the phial, on a cork before it will inflame.
              Instantaneous light  boxes.
     The liquid is concentrated sulphuric acid.   The
   bottle containing it is never opened except when it
   is to be  used; for the acid, when exposed  to the
   air, imbibes  moisture very rapidly and is   soon
   spoiled.  The matches are prepared . s follows:
   —the ends of some small slips of light  wood are
   dipped into a strong solution o. gum, and  after-
   wards into  the mixture of chlorate of potass and
   sulphur,  prepared by rubbing 2 grains of the for-
   mer into a  fine powder in a mortar, and  adding 1
   grain of flowers of sulphur, then mixing them very
   accurately by well triturating them in the gentlest
   possible manner.
     The powder is fastened to the Avood by the gum,
   and the matches  when dry are fit for use.   Then
   take one and dip it into the  liquid, upon whit.i it
   takes fire.
            Curiow mode of silvering ivory.
     Immerse a small slip of ivory in a wea.i solution
   of nitrate of silver, and let it remain till the solu-
   tion has given it  a deep yellow co'our; then take it
   out and  immerse it  in a tumbler of clear water,
   and exp.,se it in the water to the  rays of the sun.
   In about three hours the  ivory acquires a black co-
   lour; but the black surface on being rubbed, soon
   becomes changed to a brilliant silver.
      To mal„e ink for printing on  linen with types.
     Dissolve  1 part of asphaltum  in four parts  of oil
   of turpentine, and add lamp-black,  or black-lead,
   in fine powder, in sufficient quantity to render the
   ink of a proper consistence for printing with types.
   To estimate the distance or danger of a thunder-
                  •*     cloud.                  ,
     From  a  knowledge of the velocity with which
   scund travels, the distance  of a thunder-cloud, or
   of a gun fi  ed on board a ship at  sea, even  in the
   night time, may  be A'ery accurately deduced. In
   the first case, the period of time between  seeing
   the lightning and hearing the thunder must  be ta-
   ken, and if a stop-watch, or pendulum, is not at
   hand, the pulse may be used; for the pulsations of
   a healthy adult approach so near to seconds, that
   in the time of four or five of them no veiy sensible
   error can  arise.  Multiply the  number by 1142
'   feet, the distance through which sound moves in a
   second.
        Improved method of binding school books.
      When the books have been  cut,  coloured, and
   backed,  cut off the part of the bands intended to be
   laced to the pasteboards, and glue  on the back  a
   piece ot strong  smooth  linen  cloth, which  must
   reach within half an inch of the head and foot,
   turning on  the sides about an inch: paste the boards
   on each  side of the cloth, fixing  them close in at
   the groove, and  give  th-2 books a firm pressing in
   the  standing press till dry.  Square  the boards,
   glue the backs, and  cover and  finish the books in
   the usual manner.
      This method will  secure and  give strength to
   the joints,  so as effectually  to prevent the  learner
   from breaking, and require no  more time than lac-
   ing in the  bands.  The  edges may  now be colour-
   ed, sprinkled, or marbled, as required.
              To cover books with leather.
      Immerse the leather in water; after which wring
   it and  stretch it on  a board; place the book with
   th ■ boards extended thereon, and cut out the cover
   allowing about half an inch larger than the book,
   to turn over the inside of  the  pasteboards.   Pare
   the ed°e of the cover very thin  all round, on a mar-
   ble slat, and paste  it well; glue the back  of the
   oook and spread the cover or. the board.
  Let  the  pasteboards be  properly  squared  and
even; put the book on the cover, which draw on
very tight.   Rub the cover smooth with a folding
stick, and turn it over on the inside of the paste-
boards on the fore edge.  The corners on the in-
side must  be cut  and neatly pressed down; tie »■
piece of thread round the book, betAveen the boards
and  the  head-bands, flraw  up the leather on the
back, if necessary,  to  cover the top of the head-
bands; rub the back very smooth with a flat fold-
ing stick, and place it at a  distance from  the fire
to dry.
  Rough calf must be damped on  the grain  side
with a sponge and water  before pasting and co-
vering.
  Russia leather must be well soaked in water for
an hour, taken out, well beaten, and rubbed; after
Avhich the paste  must be well worked into the flesh
side before covering.
  Morocco must be grained by rubbing it on a
board, with the grain  side inside, and after being
pasted, left to soak for a quarter of an  hour, and
the cover ^to be draivn on with a piece of  woollen
cloth to preserve the grain.
  Roan may be either soaked in water or- left to
soak when pasted.
               Half bound books.
  These must be forwarded in boards, the  half
cover and corners  well pared on the  edges, tied
round  the  head-bands, and before putting on the
marble paper, the edges must be burnished.
   All  whole bound books should be  pressed  be-
tAveen two  pressing boards  of  the same size, to
make  the  cover more  smooth, and  to give  the
joints neatness at the back.
To preserve cabbages  and other esculent vegeta-
   bles fresh during a sea voyage, or a severe win-
  ter.
   Cut the cabbage so as to leave about two inches
or more of the stem attached to it; after which,
scoop  out the pith to about  the  depth of an inch,
taking care not to wound or bruise the rind by the
operation.   Suspend  the cabbages by means of  a
cord, tied round the stem,  so that  that  portion of
it from Avhich the pilh is taken remain uppermost,
which regularly fill every morning wilh fresh water.
By  this simple method, cabbages, cauliflowers,
brocoli, &c. may be preserved fresh during a long
voyage,  or, in a severe winter, for domestic use.
  To manufacture salt by evaporation on faggots.
   This method, according to Mr Bakewell, is prac-
tised with great success at Montiers, in the Tar-
ranties.   There are four evaporating houses; the
firc* and second receive  the impregnated  water
from the reservoir, and evaporate  one half of the
water.  They are 350 yards long, 25 feet high, and
7 feet wide,  uncovered at  the top.  They consist
 merely of a frame of wood, composed  of upright
posts, 30 inches from each other, strengthened by
cross bars, and supported by stone buttresses, un-
der which are troughs to receive the water. These
frames are filled with double rows of blackthorn
faggots, placed loosely, so as to admit air,  and sup-
 ported by transverse pieces of wood.   The water
 is raised above  the faggots, and made to fall upon
 them, through  holes, in  a gentle shower.  It is
I then raised, and made to fall in like manner, till,
I by evaporation, it  is reduced to half its original
I quantity.  It is afterwards thrown in like manner
I over faggots in a third house, covered, to protect
 it from*rain, till it is reduced to l-7th of its ori-
 ginal quantity.  The fourth house requires to be
 only 70 yards long.   It is afterwards carried into
 pans for boiling, and  the salt is  crystallized in the
 usual  manner—8000 hogsheads  al Montiers are,
 by the first two processes, reduced to 4,000; by the
 third to 1,100; and by the fourth to 550 hogsheads 
394
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 which  latter contain  22 per cent,  of salt.  The
 faggots are changed every four or five years.
             To cool worts in brewing.
   Let the worts pass through a pipe, turned like
 the worm of a still, and let the worm be immersed
 in any running ivater.   Carry the pipe at the loAver
 end of the worm, into another vessel,  lower than
 the first,  and it will re-discharge  itself at a tem-
 perature  adapted to immediate fermentation.
                To preserve eggs.
   Hang them by hooks in strong cabbage-nets, and
 every day hook them on a fresh mesh, so as thereby
 to turn the eggs.
              To boil potatoes mealy.
   Select t^em of an uniform size, and  pour over
 them cold water, in an uncovered pot just sufficient
 to cover them.  When this first water nearly boils,
 pour it off, and replace it with a similar  quantity
 of salted  cold water.  They will thus  be mealy,
 and not cracked.  The prongs of a fork will prove
 when they are done.
              To preserve potatoes.
   Large quantities may be cured at once, by put-
 ting them into a basket as large as the vessel con-
 taining the boiling water will admit, and then just
 dipping them a minute or two at the utmost.  The
 germ, which is so near to the  skin, is thus killed,
 without injuring the potatoe; and  in this way se-
 veral tons might be cured in a few hours.  They
 should then be dried in a  warm oven, and laid up
 in sacks or casks,  secure from the frost, in a dry
 place.
                Another method.
   Another mode of preserving this valuable root,
 is first to  peel them, then to grate them down into
 a pulp, which is put into coarse  cloths,  and the
 water squeezed out by putting them  into a com-
 mon press, by which means they are  formed into
 flat cakes.   These cakes are to be well dried and
 preserved for use as required.  This is an excel-
 lent and ingenious  mode of preserving potatoes,
 although attended with too much trouble on the
 large scale.
       'J'o choose tlie time for cutting wheat.
   The  cutting of grain  should  be commenced
 whenever the straw immediately below  the ear is
 so dry that on twisting it no juice can be  expressed,
 for then the grain cannot improve, as the  circula-
 tion of juice to the ear is stopped.   It matters not
 that the stalk below is green..  Every hour that the
 grain stands uncut, after  passing this stage, is at-
 tended with loss.
              To  tt&ose a carpet.
   Always select one the figures of which are small;
 for in this case the two webs in which the carpet-
 ing consists, are always  much closer interwoven
 than in carpets where la.-ge figures upon ample I
 grounds are represented.
           Renovation of manuscripts.
   Take a  hair pencil anil wash the part  which has
 been effaced with a s ilution of prussiate of potash
 in water, and the writing will  again  appear if the
 paper has not been destroyed.
        Russian mode of making butter.
   The process consists in boiling (or rather that
 species of  boiling  called simmering) the milk for
 the space  of fifteen minutes,  in its sweet state—
 observing, at the  same time, not to  use sufficient '
 heat to burn the milk;  it  is  then churned in the i
 usual manner.  This process produces butter im-
 mediately, and of a quality far superior to  that
 mad,.- from milk which has undergone vinous fer-
 mentation; and in  addition to its Superior  flavour,
 it  will preserve its qualities much longer than that
 made in the  ordinary mode.   Another  advantage
 is, that the milk, being left sweet, is possessed of
almost the same value for ordinary purposes, and ]
| more healthy, is the boiling or scalding destroy!
j Avhatever animalcule it may have  contained.
   In winter it would be advantageous to have the
 milk scalded in vessels calculated to stand in the
 kettle  or  boiler, by which  mode the danger of
 burning the milk will be avoided; for milk  only
 burns on the edges of its surface, or where it comes
 in contact wilh the sides of the vessel in Avhich it
 is heated,  whicli is obviated by placing kettles one
 within th  other.
 Great saving of hops, by substituting gentian  root.
   The proportion of gentian root to each bushel
 of maft varies  from one ounce to an ounce and a
 half, to which  it would be  advantageous to add a
 quarter of a pound of hops.  The gentian root is
 merely sliced and placed in the boiling wort  pre-
 cisely in the same  manner  that hops usually are
 —the flavour is fully equal; and the price conside-
 rably unuer the charge for the hop, the gentian not
 costing more than l^d. per oz.
               Cure of rheumatism.
   Take cucumbers, when full grown, and put them
 into a pot with a little salt; then put the pot over a
 slow fire,  where it should  remain for about an
 hour;  then take the cucumbers and press them, the
 juice from which must be put into bottles, corked
 up tight, and  placed  in the cellar, where they
 should remain  for about a week; then wc. a flannel
 rag  with the liquid, and apply it to the parts af-
 fected.
 For the cure of violent itching of the feet from in-
                cipient chilblains.
   One part of muriatic acid, mingled with seven
 parts of water, with which the feet must be well
 rubbed for a night or two before  going to bed.—
 This application must be made  before the  skin
 breaks. It will prevent the further progress of the
 chilblains.  The feet may be a little tender for a
 short time, but this slight inconvenience will soo:i
 disappear.
 To preserve substances by heating it  well  closea
                    vessels.
   This mode of preserving vegetables as well as
 animal food, directs that the substances to be pre-
 served are  to be put into strong glass  bottles, with
 necks of a proper size, corked with  the greatest
 care, luted with a mixture of lime and soft cheese
 spread  on  rags, and the Avhole bound  down  with
 wires across it; the bottles are then inclosed sepa-
 rately in canvas bags,  and  put into a copper of
 water, which is gradually heated till  it boils,  and
 thus kept until it is presumed that the substances
 are as  it were boiled in  their own Avater.  Meat
 or poultry  ought to  be three quarters boiled or
 roasted before it is put into the bottles; the  whole
 is then left to cool, the bottles taken out,  and care-
 fully examined before they are  laid  by, lest they
 should have  cracked or the  lute given way.   The
 patentees use stone jars, and tin boxes  soldered up,
 instead of glass bottles.
 To frame a polygraph, or instrument for writing
               two letters at once.
  In this instrument, two pens, and even three if
 necessary,  are joined to each other  by  slips of
 Avood acting upon  the pivot; one  of these pens
cannot move without drawing the other  to folloAv
all its  movements;  the  rules are  inflexible,  and
 they preserve in all their positions the parallelism
 whi:h is given by uniting them.   The movements
 of one of these pens are identically the same as
 those of the other; the characters traced by  the
 first  are the exact counterpart of those Avhich the
 second has formed; if the one rise above the paper
 and cease to write, or rather  if it make a scratch,
 or advance towards tne ink  bottle, the other, faith-
 ful to the movements which  are transmitted to it
 by the species of light wood which directs it, eilhei 
MISCELLANEOUS.
S9f
rises or scratches or draws  ink, and that without
having occasion to give anv particular attention to
it.  The copj is made o! itself, and without ever
thinking of it.
  The polygraph is not expensive; it is used with-
out difficulty, and almost with the same facility as
in ordinary,writing.  The construction is as sim-
ple as it is convenient; all the  parts are  collected
so as to be taken to pieces  and put up again very
easily.  Its size admits of its taking every desira-
ble position,  horizontal,  perpendicular, or obi", jue,
according to the application which is made of it,
and the piece of furniture to which it is to be adapt-
ed; for it may be fixed to a drawer, a desk, an ink-
stand, an easel, or simply laid upon the table;  it is
generally accompanied by a drawer,  and a case of
the form and bulk  of an ordinary desk.
           'To extinguish a recent fire.
  A mop  and  a pail  of water are  generally the
most  efficacious remedies; but if it has  gained
head, then keep out the air, and remove all asci nd-
ing or perpendicular  combustibles,  up which the
fire creeps and  incn asesin force as it rises.
    To escape from or go into a house on fire.
  Creep or crawl with your face near the ground,
*nd although the room be full of smoke to suffoca-
tion, yet near the floor the air is pure, and may be
breathed with safety.  The best escape from upper
windows is a knotted  rope, but it a leaf is  una-
voidable, then a bed sh ,uld be thrown out first, or
beds prepared for the purpose.
          Substitute for Sti.ton cheese.
  Families may produce their OAvn  Stilton by the
following  simple process:—To the  new milk of
the cheese-making morning,  add the cream from
that of the preceding evening, together with the
rennet, watching the full separation  of the curd,
which  must  be removed from the  Avhey without
breaking, and placed in a sieve unt:l of such a con-
sistence as to bear being lifted up and placed in a
hoop that  will receive it without  much pressure.
The cheese  as it dries will shrink up, and must
therefore be placed from time to time in a tighter
hoop, and turned daily until it acquires the proper
degree of consistence for use or keeping.
             To imitate Parmesan.
  Let the day's milk be heated to the degree ->f 120
degrees of Fahrenheit, then removed from the fire
until all motion ceases.  Put in the  rennet, allow
an  hour for  the coagulation, after which set the
curd  on a  slow fire until heated  to 150 degrees,
during which the curd separates  in  small  lumps.
A few pinches of saffron are then thrown in to-
gether with cold water sufficient to reduce it in-
stantly to a bearable heat, when the curd is collect-
ed by passing a cloth  beneath it,  and gathering it
up at the -orners.   Place the curd  in a circle  ot
wood  without a bottom;  lay it  on a tab.e covered
by around piece of wood, pressed down by a heavy
stone.   The  cheese will acquire sufficient consis-
tence in the course of a night to bear turning, when
the upper side is to be rubbed  with salt,  and con-
tinued alternately for 40 days.
  In Italy the outer crust is next cut  off, and the
new surface varnished with  linseed  oil:  but that
may well be omitted, as well as colouring one side
of it red.               .     ,
                To white wash.
  Put some lumps of quick lime into a bucket of
cold water, and stir it about till dissolved and mix-
ed  after which a brush  with a large bead, and a
lon^ handle  to  reach the ceiling  ot the room, is
used to spread it thinly on  the walls, he.  When
dry it is beautifully white,  but its known cheap-
ness has induced the plasterers to substitute a mix-
ture of glue size and whiting for the houses ot their
opulent customers; and this, when once used, pre-
[ eludes the employment of I'me-Avashingever after;
 for the latter, when laid on whiting, becomes yel-
 low.
   White washing is an admirable manner of ren
 dering the dAvellings ot  the poor clean and Avhole-
 some.
        To prevent the smoking of a lamp.
   Soak the wick in strong vinegar, and dry it well
 before you use it; it will then burn both sweet and
 pleasant, and give much satisfaction for the trifling
 trouble in preparing it.
 Easy mode of taking impressions from coins, &c.
   A very easy and elegant way of taking the im-
 pressions of medals and coins, not generally known,
 is vnus described by Dr Shaw:—Melt a little isin '
 glass glue with brandy, and pour it thinly over the
 medal so as to cover  its whole surface;  let  it re-
 main on  for  a day or two, till it is thoroughly dried
 and hardened, and then taking it off it will be fine,
 clear, and as hard as a piece of Muscovy glass, and
 will  have a very  elegant impression of the coin. It
 will  also resist the effects of damp air, which oc-
 casions all other kinds of glue to soften  and bend
 if not prepared in this way.
          Paste for  sharpening razors.
   Take  oxide of tin levigated, vulgarly termed
 prepared putty, one  ounce; saturated solution of
 oxalic acid, a sufficient quantity to form a  paste.
 This composition  is to be rubbed over the  strop,
 ind when dry a little water  may be added.   The
 oxalic acid  having a great attachment for iron, a
 little friction with this powder, gives a fine edge to
 the razor.
              A natural dentifrice.
   The common  strawberry is a natural dentifrice,
 and  its juice, without any preparation,  dissolves
 the tartareous incrustations on the teelh, and makes
 the breath sweet and agreeable.
        To make glass jars look like china.
   After painting the figures, cut them out, so that
 none of the  white of the paper remains,  then lake'*
 some thick  gum-arabic water, pass it over all the
 figures,  and place them on the glass to taste: let
I them stand to dry for 24 hours, then clean them
 well wilh a svet  cloth betwixt  the prints, and let
 them stand a fewjiouis longer lest the  water should
 move any of the edges, then take white wax and
 flake white,  ground very fine, and  melt  them to-
 gether: with a japanning brush  go over all  the
 glass above  the  prints; done in this manner they
 will  hold water; or, boil isinglass to a strong jelly,
 and ro<x it up with white lead  ground fine, and lay
 it on in the  same manner: or use  nut oil and flake
 wiiite.  For a blue  ground, do it with white wax
 and Prussian blue, ground fine; for red, wax and
 vermilion or carmine; for  green, wax and verdi-
 gris; for a chocolate  colour,  wax and burnt umber.
 To make artificial red coral branches, for the em-
              bellishment of grottoes.
   Take clear rosin,  dissolve it in a brass pan, to
 every ounce of whicli add 2 drs. of the finest ver-
 milion; when  stirred well  togeth.r, choose  the
 twigs and branches, peeled and dried, then take a
 pencil and paint  the branches  all  over whilst  the
 composition is  warm: afterwards shape them  in
 imitation of natural  coral.   This done,  hold  '.he
 branches over a gentle coal  fire, till all is smooth
 and even as  if polished.  In the same manner  white
 c.ral may be prepared with  wi.ite lead, and  black
 coral,  with  lamp-black.  A grotto may be  built
 with  little  expense,  of glass, cinders,  pebbles,
 pieces of large flint,  shells, moss, stones, counter-
 feit coral, pieces of chalk, he. all bound or cement-
 ed together  with the above described cement.
             To prepare hair for wigs.
   Hair which does not curl or buckle naturally, is
 brought to it by art, by first bailing and then baking 
396
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK
 it. After having picked and sorted the hair, and dis-
 posed it in parcels according to lengths, roll them
 up and tie them tight down upon little cylindrical
 instruments, either  of wood or earthenware, a
 quarter of an  inch thick,  and hollowed a little in
 the middle, called pipes; in which  slate they are
 put in a pot over the fire,  there to  boil for about
 two  hours.  When  taken out let them dry; and
 when dried, spread them on a sheet of broAvn  pa-
 per, cover them  with another,  and thus send them
 to the baker, who making a crust around them of
 common paste, sets them  in an oven till the crust
 is about three-fourths baked.
             To make wax candles.
   Place a dozen wicks on  an  iron circle, at equal
 distances, over a  large copper vessel, tinned  and
 full of melted  Avax;  pour a ladleful of the Avax on
 the tops of the wicks, one  after another; what the
 wick does not take, will drop into the A'essel,  which
 must be kept  warm by a  pan of coals; continue
 this process till the candles are as large as required.
 If they are Avanted of a pyramidal  form,  let the
 first three ladlesful be poured on at the top  of the
 wick, the fourth at the height of three quarters, the
 fifth at half, and the sixth  at a quarter; then take
 them down hot, and lay them beside each other in
 a feather-bed folded in two to preserve their warmth
 and keep the wax soft;  then take them down  and
 roll  them one  by one on a smooth  table, and cut
'off the thick end as required.
            To make rush lights, &c.
   Take a quantity of rushes during the season, and
 strip off the skin from  two sides thereof, leaving
 the pith bare.  These,'being quite dry, dip them
 in melted grease repeatedly, and a good light for all
 the purposes of a family, may thereby be obtained.
   If cotton yarn, without knots, be-procured,  and
 passed round a small  stick, the ends being slightly
 tAvisted together, good candles may be made  by
 separating these,  and  dipping  them in the same
 kind of grease repeatedly;  but suffering each stick
 of candles to cool a little between dip and dip.
 To make transparent  dials for public clocks  by
                     night.
   The figures, and all the other external parts, are
 filed to an angle, so that they shall not casta shade in
 the oblique directions ofthe sight. Two circles, the
 one exterior., the other interior, have two grooves be-
 hind, for receiving two thicknesses of  glass, formed
 of several pieces,  the parts of which are joined to-
 gether with cement behind  the  strips or little rods
 that  form the figures;  thus the joinings are not vi-
 sible outside.   BetAveen the two glasses is a piece
 of Avhite cloth  which completely enclosed by the
 cement cannot be altered by time. To illuminate
the transparent parts,  first let the dial be fixed  by
 its outer circle in a hole, made to fit it in the wall:
then, in the interval between the dial and the move-
ment, make a moveable incjosure carrying one or
 more reflectors, according to the size of the dial,
opposite to one another, in order that the rod may
 not cast a shadow;  a pipe is  placed above the
lights, to convey away the  smoke and vapour of
the oil.  The hands should be  varnished black,
that  they may appear of the  same colour by day
and by night.
   The form of  the box enclosing the  movement is
 a globe,  proportioned to the size of the dial.  The
 movement is carried by the dial, in order to have
 but one focus of the light; and then  the centre  of
the dial remains opaque, and is varnished white for
the day-light.  The light is fixed to  a door  made
in the globe, diametrically  opposite to the centre
of the dial, and a reflector is attached to the  same
door.
             To make grindstones.
  Take  of river  sand, three parts,  of  seed lac,
 washed, one part; mix them over a fire in a pot,
 and form the mass into the shape of a grindstone,
 having a square hole in the centre, ix it on an axis
 wilh liquehed lac, heat the stone moderately, anu*
 by turning the axis ;t may easily be fo: med into an
 exact orbicular shape.  Polishing grind stones are
 made only of such sani as will pass easily through
 fine muslin, in the proportion of two parts of sand
 tooneoflac.   This sand is found atRagimaul.   It
 is composed of small  angular crystalline particles
 tinged red  with iron, two parts  to one of black
 magnetic  sand.   The stone-cutters,  instead  of
 sand,  use the powder ofa very hard granite called
 corune.  These grindstones cut very fast.  When
 they  want to increase their power they throw sand
 upon them, or let them occasionally touch the edge
 of  a  vitrified  brick.  The same composition  is
 formed upon sticks, for cutting stones, shells, he,
 by  the hand.
               Improved coffee pot,
  Amongst the new Parisian inventions is a coffee
 pot constructed of three pieces: the first is a plain
 boiler, over that is a double f.lterer, and at  the top
 is an  inverted coffee  pot, which  fits on exactly.
 Cold water is placed  in the first vessel, and the
 coffee in the filtering-box.   Under the whole is a
 spirit lamp, which in the course of five or  six mi-
 nutes causes the water to  boil, the vapour arising
 from  which completely saturates the coffee. When
 the water boils, which is  ascertained  by the dis-
 charge ofthe  vapour from  the spout of the invert-
 ed  coffee pot,  the whole machine is lifted from the
 lamp, and -completely inverted; so that  the  pot
 which was  uppermost is  at the bottom, and  the
 boiling water, which had saturated the  coffee,
 flows through the fillerer, clear, into what was be
 fore the inverted coffee pot, where in the- space of
 two minutes it is ready for use.  This mode of
 preparing coffee is a saving of at least 25 per cent
 and it secures the fine flavour  of the  berry.—In
 another part of the service is a  coffee roaster, of
 glass,  over  another  lamp  of a  long wide flame.
 The roasting  requires about three minutes, and
 even so small  a quantity as an ounce may be  thus
 prepared.
        To  wash and cleanse linens, &c,
  Le*.  the articles intended to  be Avashed, be as-
 sorted according to their qualities of fineness, and
 having done this, put them into  different  vessels
 containing  warm  water,  at the temperature  of
 about 100 or 130 deg. Fahi.; in this water dissolve
 about  one-third or one-fourth of the soap which
 would be required to wash in the  ordinary way,
 and to this a small quantity of pearl ashes must be
 added.  The  clothes being entirely coverea with
 this liquor, let them remain in soak for thirty-six
 or forty-eight  hours, after which, the;  are to be
 taken out of the  liquo.% and rinsed well in clean
 cold water, giving them a  slight wringing,  so that
 but little  of  the water  may be retained  in  the
 clothes.
  A boiler containing as much water as will cover
the  clothes, intended to be washed  at one  opera-
tion, is now to be  heated  to  about 100 degrees
Fahrenheit,  and the remaining quantity of soap
(about two-thirds the sum used in all),  with a lit-
 tle  pearl ashes, must now be introduced.   When
the  soap  is sufficiently dissolved, the clothes may
be put into the liquor, taking care  that the finer
articles are  all kept  by themselves, and operated
 upon  first.  The temperature of the liquor must
 now be gradually raised to  the boiling point, dur-
 ing a space of  twenty minutes or half an hour, not
 faster; then let the whole boil for fifteen or twenty
 minutes, after which the first lot of clothes may be
 taken  out,  and deposited  in a vessel  containing
 warm  water.  Retaining the ley  from the first 
MISCELLANEOUS.
397
boil, now fill up the vessel with water, and then
introduce the next coarser kind of articles, and
operate upon them as above.
  The clothes thus treated are then to be carefully
examined, and if any spots romain, which  seldom
happens, they are to be washed by the hand, giv-
ing the whole a  slight rub in  the common way.
This process of boiling (contrary to the common
prejudice), will so effectually dislodge every greasy
and dirty part, that more than three-fourths of the
business is effected  without any rubbing whatever;
and the clothes are ultimately rendered perfectly
clean, by merely rinsing in cold water.
            Remedies for tooth-ache.
  Take the  inside of a nut gall, and  put  a small
piece into the hollow tooth, which is to be removed
and replaced by another bit, about every half hour,
as long as white matter comes away with the piece
taken out.  The above has been found not only a
temporary but a permanent cure.
  Another.—The following has been  found veiy
beneficial in allaying the tooth-ache: Take of tinc-
ture of opium, rectified spirit of wine,  each 3 oz.
camphor, 6 drs. opium, powdered, 1£ do. pellitory
of Spain, A oz.   Macerate for eight days.  A small
piece  of lint or cotton  is to be dipped into the
tincture, and placed in the cavity of the affected
tooth.
  Another.—Take a sheet  of commjn Avriting pa-
per, fold it into a conical form, and set the larger
end of it on fire, collect the smoke (which will is-
sue copiously from the  smaller end),  in a clean
silver table spoon, and, when the paper is wholly
consumed, a small quantity of oil will "be foun^-in
ihe spoon.   Then  make a pellet of  c«>vv(*flPJnt
size, and, having caused it to absorb as muW-bf the
oil as will saturate it, put it carefully into  the ca-
rious tooth.
   Especial care must be taken that the pellet is not
too large, for, if that circumstance be not attended
to, in forc'u.g the pellet into the  tooth,  great part
will be squeezed out
   Another.—Th". well-known ladybird, coccinella
septempunctata, possesses a peculiar virtue against
the tooth-ache.   " I was induced (says Dr Frede-
rick Hirsoh, dentist to several German  courts) to
collect some of those insects, and, on repeated tri-
als, I found  it  to exceed  my expectations, and  I
was so happy as to cure several persons speedily
and completely with this small insect;  finding my-
 self obliged  to repeat the remedy only in the cases
of a few female patients.   My method of proceed-
ing was  as follows:—I crushed the insect between
my thumb and fore-finger, and rubbed it between
them till their points grew warm.   With the fore-
finger and  thumb  thus  prepared, I then  rubbed
 both the  affected part of the gum and the aching
 tooth; upon which the pain, in every instance, ex-
 cept  in  the cases mentioned  above,   completely
ceased.   1 found, likewise, that the medicinal vir-
tue of this insect was so powerful and durable, that
 my fore-finger Avas capable of removing the tooth-
ache for some days after, without crushing an in-
 sect on it afresh.   It is not to be expected, how-
ever, that this insect, when preserved deadfshould
produce the like effect; as then its internal parts,
in which its virtue may be presumed chiefly to re-
side, are wholly dried up, leaving  nothing but the
 wings and an empty shell."
   Another.— Take a clean tobacco-pipe, place the
bowl of it in the fire till red hot, put two or three
pinches of henbane-seed into the bowl, over which
 put tne  broad  part of a common funnel, the tube
of the funnel against the tooth affected, so that the
 stroke arising from the seed may enter.  As often
 as the  pipe gets cold, heat it afresh,   and put  in
 more  seed:  continue this for about a quarter of au
hour, and  the pain, if not  allayed immediately,
will soon cease.   This is a certain cure (at least a
relief for  some  years) for the tooth-ache.  The
s<*ed may be bought at any seed-shop, and two pen-
nyworth of it. will serve for twenty people.  Care
should be taken that the person, after the perform-
ance of this operation, does not take cold; in  order
to prevent this, it had better be performed shortly
before the patient retires to rest.
             Oil for watchmakers.
  Put some salad oil into a matrass, or one of  the
Florence flasks in which it is imported, and pour
on it eight times its weight of spirit of wine; heat
the mixture until it is ready to boil, then pour off
the spirit of wine, and let  it  stand to cool.   A
portion of solid, fatty matter, called stearine, sepa-
rates, and is to  be taken away; and then the  spirit
is to be evaporated away in a basin, or distilled in
a glass retort,  until only about one-fifth  part is
left; by this m ans  the  fluid part of the oil or
elaine, as it is called, will be separated and  depo-
sited.  This elaine ought to have the consistence
of oil, be colourless, with  little  or  no taste or
smell; it should not discolour litmus paper, neither
should it be easily congealable by frost.
           Croton pills for costiveness.
  Dr Coley, of Cheltenham, prescribes croton oil
in conjunction with Castille soap and an aromatic
This composition  sits pleasantly on the stomach,
and operates efficaciously on the  intestinal canal.
The following formula has been found very effica-
cious in cases of obstinate costiveness:—Take of
Castille soap, ^  drachm; oil of the seeds of  the
croton tiglium, oil of cloves, each 9 drops.   After
being well blended in a marble mortar, and formed
into a proper mass with liquorice powder, it is to
be divided into 10 pills, two of which may be  ad-
ministered for a dose.  If this quantity should  not
operate sufficiently on the bowels in the course of
6 hours, one or two more may be given.  The root
of the tiglium is considered, by the native doctors
of Amboyna and Batavia, to be a specific for dropsy.
In the Materia  Medioa of Hindostan, as much of
the shavings, or raspings, as can be taken  up by
the thumb and finger, is directed to betaken for a
dose.  The root is both aperient and diuretic.
            Deafness in old persons.
  This  is usually accompanied  with  confused
sounds, and noises of various  kinds in the inside
of the ear itself.  In such cases, insert a piece of
cotton wool, on which a very little oil of cloves or
cinnamon has been  dropped; or which has been
dipped in equal parts of aromatic spirit of ammo-
nia, and tincture of lavender.  The ear-trumpet
ought likewise  to be occasionally used.
         Indian cure for the ear-ache.
  Take a piece  of the lean of mutton,  about  the
size of a large walnuf, put it into the fire, and burn
it for some time, till it becomes reduced almost to
a cinder; then put it into a piece of clean rag,  and
squeeze it until some moisture is expressed, which
must be dropped into the ear as hot as the patient
can bear it.
Dr Babbington's remedy for indigestion attended
                with costiveness.
  Take of infusion of columbo, 6 oz. carbonate of
potass, 1  drachm, compound tincture pf gentian, 3
ditto.  Mix.   Three  table-spoonsful  are to  be
taken every day at noon.
To remove indigestion, jlatulency,  and pains  of
            the stomach after eating.
  Take half a wine-glassful ofthe following mix-
ture a quarter of an hour after dinner:- -Magnesia
and carbonate of soda, of each 2 drachms; spirits
of sal volatile,  4 draohms; and distilled or pure
water, 1 pint.   This also is an excellent cure for
heart-burn,  and may be taken without injury by 
398
UNIVERSAL
RECEIPT BOOK.
 the most delicate  constitutions.  It is also an ex-
 cellent medicine to promote sleep, for whioh pur-
 pose a wine-glassful may be taken at bed lime.
           'The guaco in hydrophobia.
   In  the New  Monthly Magazine  for October,
 1826, is the following statement of the efficacy of
 the guaco for the cure of the hito of  a  mad  dog,
 published by the gentleman who first  made use of
 the plant in South America, as an antidote to that
 scourge of human  nature hydrophobia; his words
 are, " I shall simply state, that during my residence
 in South America, I had frequent opportunities of
 witnessing the direful effects of hydrophobia, with- i
 out having  in  any one  case that came under my !
 care been successful  in its cure by the  usual modes
 prescribed in Europe.   It fortunately occurred to ]
 me, t..at the guaco,  so celebrated for curing the
 bite or  sting of all venomous snakes, might prove i
 equally efficacious in hydrophobic cases.  How far
 my idea was correct  that an ana ogy  existed be-
 tiveen the virus of a  serpent and that of a  rabid
 dog, I leave  to others to determine;  but such was j
 my opinion, and I  acted upon it in all subsequent |
 cases with complete  success.                    i
                 Mutton hams.
   The Journal  des Connoissances Usuelles gives
 the following method of  curing legs of mutton like
 ham:—It is necessary thai  the  mutton  should  be
 very fat.  Two ounces of raw sugar must be mixed
 with an ounce of common salt aad half a spoonful
 of saltpetre.  The meat is to be riubed well with
 this,  and then  placed in  a tureen.   It must  be
 beaten  and  turned twice a day during three con-
 secutive days; and  the scum which comes from the
 meat  having been taken oft", it is to be  wiped, and
 again rubbed with the mixture.  The next day it
 should  be  again beaten, and  the two operations
 ought to be  repeated  alternately during ten  days,
 care being taken to turn  the meat each  time.  It
 must  be then exposed to the smoke for ten days.
■These hams are generally eaten cold.
        7 o make kitchen vegetables tender.
   When peas, French beans, &c. do not boil easily,
 it has usually been imputed to the coolness of the
 season, or  to the  rains.   Thi* popular  notion is
 erroneous.  The difficulty  of  boiling  them soft
 arises from an  excess of gypsum imbibed during
 their  growth.  To correct this, throw a  small
 quantity of subcarbonate of soda into the pot along
 with the vegetables.
       Transplanting shrubs in full growth.
   Dig a narrow trench round the plant, leaving its
 roots  in the middle  in  an isolated ball of earth;
 fill the trench with plaster of Paris, which will be-
 come hard  in  a few minutes,  and form a case to
 the ball  and plant, which  may be lifted and re-
 moved any where at pleasure.
               Freezing mk'ture.
   A cheap and powerful freezing mixture may be
 made by pulverizing glauber's  salts  finely, and
 placing i* level at the bottom of a glass vessel.
 Equal parts of  sal  ammoniac and nitre are then to
 be finely powdered, and mixed  together, and sub-
 sequently added to the glauber's salts,  stirring the
 powders well together; after which adding water
 sufficient to dissolve  t.e salts, a degree of cold will
 be  produced, frequently beloAv Zero of Fahren-
 heit.   But Mr Walker states, that nitrate of am-
 monia,  phosphate  of  soda,  and diluted nitric acid,
 will on  the  instant  produce a  reduction of  tem-
 perature amounting to 80 degrees. It is desirable
 to reduce the temperature  ot the substances  pre-
 viously, if convenient, by  placing the  vessels  in
 water, with nitre powder thrown in occasionally.
 Method of clearing trees from worms, caterpillars,
                      &c.
   The following method of driving Avorms, cater-
| pillars, and all other  sorts of insects, from trees
 has lately been practised wilh singular success:—
 Bore a  hole  into the  trunk of the  tree,  as far as
 the heart; fill this hole with sulphur, and place ir
 it a well fitted plug; a tree of from four to eight
 inches diameter, requires a hole large enjugh to
 admit the little finger, and in the same proport '/n,
 for  larger or smaller trees.  This will usually
 drive the insects away in  the course of 48 hours,
 but uniformly succeeds, perhaps sometimes after a
 longer period.
    On clearing feathers from their  animal oil.
   Take, for every gallon of clean water,  1 pound
 of quick lime; mix them well together; and, when
 the undissolved lime is precipitated.in fine powder,
 pour off the clear lime-water for use, at the time it
 is wanted.  Put the feathers to be cleaned  into ano-
 ther tub; and add ,to them  a  quantity of the cfoar
 lime water, sufficient  to cover the  feathers about
 three inches,  when  well  immersed and  stirred
 about therein.
   The feathers, when  thoroughly moistened, will
 sink down' and should remain  in the lime-water
 three or four days; after which, the foul liquor
 should be separated from the feathers, by laying
 them on a sieve, to drain.
   The feathers should be afterwards well washed
 in clean Avater, and dried Upon nets; the meshes of
 which should oe about the fineness of those of cab-
 bage-nets.
   The feathers must,  from time to time, be shaken
 upon the  nets: and,  as  they dry,  they  will  fall
 through the meshes;  and  <u-e to be collected, in
 w^Tc' to be "beaten, as usual, for  use.
   rI'.V(/'w.iission  of air will  be serviceable in the
 dry'ngV'luid the whole process will  be  completed
 in about three weeks.
   The value of the foregoing process was tested by
 several samples of feathers, all of which were per-
 fectly cleansed from their  animal oil; one parcel
 had been stoved for three days,  hut still  retained
 their unpleasant smell, whicli was completely re-
 moved by the lime-water.
   After the feathers have been cleansed and dried,
 they are put into  a  strong bag, like a bed tick,
 whicli  is laid upon a  stage, and  beaten with  long
 poles, like broom-handles, until the feathers  are
 perfectly light and lively.
                  'J'o salt meat.
   In the  summer season, especially, meat is fre-
 quently spoiled by the cook forgetting to take out
 the kernels: one in the udder  of a round of beef,—
 in the fat in the middle of the round,—those -foout
 the thick end ofthe flank, he.; if these are not taken
 out, all the salt in the world will not keep the meat
   The art of salting meat  is to rub in the salt tho-
 roughly and evenly into every part,  and to  fill all
 the holes full of salt where the kernels were taken
 out, and where the butcher's skewers were.
   A round of beef of £5 pounds  will take a pound
 and a half of salt to be rubbed in  all at first, and
 requires to be turned  and rubbed every day wilh
 the brine: it will be ready for dressing  in tour or
 five days, if you do not wish  it very salt.
   In summer, the sooner meat is salted after it is
 killed the  better, and care must be taken lo defend
 it from the flies.
   In winter, it will eat the shorter and  tenderer
 if kept a few days (according to the temperature
 of the weather) before it is salted.
   In frosty weather, take care the meat is not fro-
 zen, and warm the salt in  a frying-pan.   The  ex-
 tremes of heat and cold are equally unfavourable
 for the process of salting;  in the former the meat
 changes before the salt can effect it; in the lat'er
 it is so hardened,  and ths  juices  are so congealed,
 that the salt cannot penetrate it. 
MISCELLANEOUS.
399
  If you wish it red, rub it first with  saltpetre, in
ihe proportion of half an ounce and the like quan-
tity of moist sugar, to a pound of common salt.
  You may impregnate meat with a very agreeable
vegetable flavour, by pounding some  sweet herbs
and r lions  with the salt: you may make il still
more  relished by adding a little savoury spice.
                'J'o piMe meat.
  Six pounds of salt, one pound of sugar, and four
ounces of saltpetre, boiled with four  gallons of
Avater skimmed, and aftowed to cool, forms a very
strong pickle, which will  preserve any meat  com-
pletely immersed in it.  To  effect this, which is
essential, either a heavy board or a flat stone must
be laid upon the meat.  The  same  pickle  may be
used  repeatedly, provided  it  be boiled up  occa-
sionally Avith additional salt to restore its strength,
diminished by the combination of part of  the salt
with the meat, and  by the  dilution of the pickle
by the juices of the meat  extracted.   By boiling,
the albumen which  would cause the pickle  to spoil
is coagulated and rises in the form of scum, which
must  be carefully removed.
   An H-hone of 10 or 12 pounds weight will re-
quire about three quarters of a pound of salt and
an ounce of moist sugar to be well rubbed into it—
will be ready in four or five  days, if turned and
rubbed every day.
   The time meat  requires salting depends upon
the Aveight of it, and how much salt is used.  If it
be rubbed in with  a heavy hand, it will be ready
much sooner than if only lightly rubbed.
   N.  B.  Dry the salt and rub  it with the sugar in
a mortar.
   Pork requires a longer time to cure (in propor-
tion to its weight) than beef:  a leg of pork should
be iu salt eight or ten days; turn it and rub  it every
day.
   Salt meat should be well washed before it is
boiled, especially if it has been in salt long, that
ihe liquor in which the meat is boiled, may not be
too salt to make soup of.
   If it has been in  salt a long time, and you think
it will be too salt, wash it well in cold water, and
soak  it in lukewarm Avater for a couple of hours:
if it is very salt, lay it in water the  night before
you intend to dress it.
Permanent  and portable apparatus for purifying
                    the air.
   An apparatus for purifying the air, on the prin-
ciples „f Guvton Morveau, has been  lately  intro-
duced into several of the French hospitals, which
possesses the advantage of being portable, and of
retaining its properties for a considerable time.  It
sonsists  of a vessel of thick glass, containing about
six decilitres (l£ wine pint  nearly).  The edge
of the vessel, which is strong, is ground very ac-
 curately, and covered with  a  disk of glass, which
 seals it hermetically.
   This vessel is fixed in a small plank, which sup-
ports a frame of wood, in the form of a press, and
is  provided with a screw  to raise  or lower the
plate of glass, in order to open or shut the  appa-
ratus at  pleasure.
   To produce  the  disinfecting gas,  40 grammes
(U oz.) of  black oxide of manganese, powdered
and passed  through a hair  sieve  is put  into the
vessel; afterwards  one decilitre (l-6th of the ca-
pacity) of pure nitric acid, of 1.40 specific  gravity,
and an equal volume of muriatic acid, ot 1.13 spe-
cific gravity, is poured over it.
   Wnen the mixture is made, the glass  cover is
pressed  strongly down by means ot the screw care
being taken that there is no dirt on the edge of the
vessel to prevent it from fitting close.  Two-thirds
of the vessel must  always be kept empty to contain
the gas.
  To purify any place whatever, it is sufficient to
unscrew one  turn of the pressure screw, and  to
leave the apparatus open one  or two minutes, ac-
cording to the size of the place to be purified: the
expansion of the gas will be soon perceived through
the whole of  the apartment: the apparatus is then
to be closed.
  The effects of this apparatus will continue for
about six months, using it daily:  and when  they
cease, the vessel is emptied and  washed out, and
the ingredients renewed in the proportions indi-
cated.
  This is of great  utility in  purifying the air of
hospitals, prisons,Avorkshops, he. Avherethe num-
ber of pars, .is, or any other cause, renders  such a
measure  necessary.  The only precaution the use
of it requires is, to avoid the  spontaneous respira-
tion of the  gas immediately on its issuing from the
vessel, Avhich, without being  dangerous, would be
disagreeable.
  Similar apparatuses on  a smaller scale are also
made, which are enclosed in a box-wood case, aud
carried in the pocket.
       A method of preserving lime-juice.
  The juice having been Expressed from the fruit,
was strained, and put into quart bottles: these hav-
ing been carefully corked,  were put into a  pan of
e">ld water, which was  then  by degrees raised to
the  boiling point  At that  temperature  it was
kept for half an hour, and Avas then allowed to cool
down to  the  temperature of the air.   After being
bottled for  8  months the juice Avas in the stale of a
whitish,  turbid liquor, with the acidity, and much
of the flavour ofthe lime; nor did it appear to have
undergone  any alteration. Some of the juice, which
had been examined the year before, and which had
since only been again heated, and carefully bot-
tled, was still in good condition, retaining much of
the flavour ofthe recent juice.   Hence, it appears
that by the application  of  the  above process, the
addition of rum, or other spirit, to lime or lemon
juice, may  be avoided, without rendering it  at all
more liable to  spontaneous alteration.
       Balsamic and anti-putrid vinegar.
   Take rue,  sage, mint, rosemary, and lavender,
fresh gathered, of each a handful, cut them small,
and put them into a stone jar, pour upon the herbs
a pint of the best white-wine vinegar; cover the
 jar close, and  let it stand 8 days in the sun, or near
a fire; then strain it oft", and dissolve in it an ounce
of camphor.   This/ liquid,  sprinkled  about the
sick chamber,  or fumigated,  will much revive the
patient, and  prevent the attendants from receiving
infection.
  For bites and stings of small reptiles and insects.
   The local  pain produced by the bites and stings
of reptiles and insects,  in general,  is greatly re-
lieved by the following application. Make a lotion
of five ounces of distilled  water,  and one  ounce
of tinctore of opium.   To be applied immediately.
   Another.—Mix 5J ounces of distilled water, and
^ an ounce of Avater of ammonia.  Wash the part
repeatedly with this lotion until the pain abates.
     On softening cast iron, by Mr Strickland.
   " There has been a method lately discovered, to
ma%e oast metal soft and malleabi ; and there aro
already many large manufactories put up for this
 verv important process.   1  have visited one  of
them in London, and  witnessed the  operation.
The method consists, in placing the cast metal in
a case or  pot, along with, and surrounded  by, a
 soft, red ore, found  in Cumberland,  and  other
 parts of England.   The cases are then put into a
 common oven, built Avith fire-bricks, and without
 a chimney, where they are  heated  with coal or
 coke, placed upon a fire-grate.  The doors of the
 oven are closed, and but a slight draft of air per- 
400
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
mitted under the grate; and thus a regular heat is
kept up,  for  the  space of seven days, or  two
weeks, Jepending on the thickness and Aveight of
the castings.   The cases are  then taken  out, and
suffereu to cool, and the hardest cast metal is, by
the operation, rendered so soft and malleable, that
it may be welded together, or, when in a cold state,
bent into almost any shape by a hammer or vice.
Iu this manner  are all  articles, such as harness
buckles, bridle bits, horse shoes, and even nails,
made  tough  and malleable.   Cast horse  shoes,
suh.nitted to this process, have, after being Avorn
out by the action of the horses' feet,  been eon-
verted into penknives, and other articles of  cut-
lery, ofa superior quality. I have procured a speci-
men ofthe red ore used  in this valuable process,
together  with a few articles  of the  hardest  cast
iron, which have been softened, and rendered per-
fectly malleable.  Those castings, however, Avhich
are made from  pig iron containing  the  smallest
portion of carbon, are the best adapted  for con-
version into  malleable iron:  the  only effect pro-
duced  by the  introduction of  the  red ore, along
with the metal, is to deprive it of its carbon."
  The Cumberland  red ore is, it appears, found
in various parts of the Island of Great Britain, and
there are, undoubtedly, several varieties of iron ore
in the  United  States, which will answer the sam;
purpose.   The Cumberland ore is probably an ar-
gillaceous oxide of iron.   The Hematetic  iron ore,
which consists of oxide of iron, silex,  and  alumine,
has been  successfully used in England, but as it is
a very  hard substance, the difficulty of reducing it
to powder, in  sufficient  quantities, is a bar to its
employment  in  the large way.   The ochery red
oxide of iron (red-ochre) is known to abound
in many of the states, and is, probably, similar to
that of Cumberland   The  Bog-ore,  so  abundant
in New Jersey,  and in  many other places, would
be likely to answer the purpose, when not  conta-
minated by phosphate of iron.
                 Night mare.
  Articles of food, most likely to produce  night-
mare, are cucumbers, nuts, apples, and  all such
things  as generally produce  flatulence.   The pa-
roxysm of night-mare does not always immediate-
ly follow the eating any improper food, but some-
times several  days  elapse before its attack.  In
this case it is easier to  foresee, and consequently
to prevent  it  The signs by which its approach
may be known are unusual drowsiness, disagreea-
ble dreams, and  disturbed sleep, with wind in the
stomach and bowels.  In this case immediate re-
course should be had to the carbonate of soda, or
to either of the following draughts, which may be
taken at bed-time:—Mix together 10  grains of
carbonate of soda, 3 drachms  of  compound tinc-
ture of cardamoms;  1  drachm of simple  syrup;
and 1 oz. of peppermint  water.
  Another.—Mix together 10 grains of prepared
ammonia; 1  drachm of tincture  of  capsicum; 1
drachm of syrup of saffron;  and  10 drachms of
cinnamon water.—Should these medicines not pro-
duce  any relaxation of the  bowels, it will  be ne-
cessary the following morning to take a dose of
some ofthe ne.cral purging salts, or what will an-
swer equally well, the following aperient  draught:
  Another.—Mix together 15 grains of magnesia;
15 grains of rhubarb powder; 8 grains of  carbo-
nate' of soda; 1  drachm  of simple syrup; and 11
drachms of peppermint water.—To those persons
who are habitually subject to night-mare, we would
advise the frequent repetition of one or  other of
the draughts,  for several nights in succession; af-
ter which the aperient draught may be  taken  if
necessary; and  costiveness  is in all cases to be
avoided.
 On the means of preventing or extinguisldngfires
     in steam boats, by professor Robert Hare.
   In the first place, the flues and the furnace may
 be so situated, that the wood work can  in  no case
 be set on fire by them.  In the second  place, by
 means of a capacious pump to be worked  by the
 engine,  and other pumps in  different parts of the
I vessel, to be Avorked by the crew and passengers,
 torrent of water might in a few moments,  by the
 aid of hoses and pipes, be directed upon the fire.
   It  would be highly important to have  also  a
 number of  leather fire buckets hung up in an ap-
 propriate place, and kept  in  order; also, buckets
 with ropes  attached to them, to draAV up water by
 hand.  The crew should be  trained to use the
 pumps, the hoses, and the buckets for drawing wa-
 ter.   If a due degree of discipline Avere established
 among them, the efforts of the passengers would
 soon take the same direction; so that their num-
 bers would tend to diminish the danger, instead
 of rendering it greater.
   There should be at least four good hand pumps,
 two forward and -two  aft,  besides the pump to be
 wrought by the engine.   From this pump, which
 could always be used when the fire should  not be
 so situated  as to incapacitate the machinery, two
 iron pipes should proceed, one lo the forward, the
 other to the after part of the  boat;  to these pipes
 there should be large cocks with hose permanently
 attached, of  length sufficient  to  command  the
 greater  part of the boat   Each hose should always
 be kept  upon a reel; so that on the captain's giving
 an order to work the fire  pump, either  might be
 immediately ready for use, and the water  spout-
 ing, from the terminating pipe, be under the di-
 rection of one of the crew, Avho should be trained
 for that purpose, to know his post, and perform his
 duty with skill and agility.
                Remedy  for flux.
   Take  of  catechu,  in poAvder,  simarouba bark,
 cinnamon, each 2 dr. boiling water, 1 pint.  Ma-
 cerate for 4 hours in a covered vessel; strain. Now,
 take off the strained liquor, 7 oz. compound tinc-
 ture of cardamoms, 1 oz.  opium confection, 1 dr.
 Make into  a mixture,  of which take two  table-
 spoonsful 4 times a day.   Excellent in fluxes of all
 kinds.
         Dysentery and bilious disorders.
   The medical qualities  of  pulverized charcoal
 are daily developing themselves.   In addition  to
 its value in bilious  disorders,  two  ounces  ofthe
 charcoal, boiled in a pint  of fresh  milk, may be
 taken in doses of a wine-glassful, by adults, every
 two hours,  in the most obstinate dysentery, until
 relief is imparted, which has not  failed to  be the
 effect in almost every instance. It is harmless, and
 the experiment may  be safely tried.   Charcoal
 made from maple wood is the fittest for this pur-
 pose.
                Fine black colour.
    " Take some camphor,  and  set it on fire; from
 the flame will  arise a very dense  smoke,  Avhich
 might be collected in the  same way as the lamp-
 black, in the manufactories of that article.  As I
 have not required much  at a time, I have generally
 collected it on  a common saucer, by holding it
 over the flame.  This black, mixed with gum ara-
 bic, is far superior to any India ink I have e\er
 seen imported; 1 have also used it ground in oil."
    Miniature painters, who use colours in small
 quantities,  sometimes obtain a  most beautiful and
 perfect  black,  by using t!. e buttons which form on
 the snuff" of a  candle, when allowed to burn un-
 disturbed.  These are  made to fall into a small
 thimble, or any other convenient vessel which can
 be immediately covered with the  thumb, to ex-
 clude the air.   This is  found  to be perfectly free 
MISCELLANEOUS.
401
from grease, and to possess every desirable qua-
lity.
              For rheumatic gout.
  The following medicine, prescribed by Dr Bail-
lie, has always been found to succeed in  removing
rheumatic gout, and in allaying the general excite-
ment of the brain and nervous system, which uni-
formly  accompanies  it:—Take  of camphorated
mixture, 7  drachms, infusion of rhubarb, 5 do.
tincture of henbane, A a drachm, sub-carbonate of
potass,  10 grains.    Mix for  a draught.  To  be
taken two or three times a day,  particularly the
last thing at night.
   Wash leather under waistcoats.—In several in-
stances, the  best effects have occurred  from wear-
ing washing leather over flannel, as a preservative
against the consequence of those exposures to which
all are more  or less liable.  A waistcoat  of this
material will, in many cases, supersede the neces-
sity of, and prove a more effective barrier  against
cold, than a great coat, and often even after the es-
tablishment ofa rheumatism Avhich refuses to give
way before the most powerful  medicine, clothing
.he parts affected with leather will almost  imme-
diately effect an easy cure.
                    Dropsy.
   The  following  receipt was  given  to  the late
countess of Shaftesbury by the prior of the Bene-
dictine monastery of Corbie, in Picardy.
   Take of broom-seed, well powdered, and sifted,
1  drachm. Let it steep tAvelve hours in a  glass and
a  half of good rich white Avine, and take it in the
morning, fasting, having first shaken it so that the
whole may be  swalloAved.  Let the patient walk
after it, if able, or let her use what exercise she
can  without  fatigue, for an  hour and a half; after
which, let her take 2 oz. of olive oil; and  not eat
or drink any thing in less than half an hour after-
wards.   Let this be repeated every day, or  once in
three days, and not oftener  till a cure is effected;
and do not let blood, or use  any other remedy dur-
ing the course.
   Nothing can be more gentle and safe than the
operation of this remedy.   If the dropsy is in the
body, it discharges it by urine, without any incon-
venience: if  it is  between  the skin  and flesh,  it
causes blisters to rise on the legs,  by which it will
run off; but this does not happen to more than one
in thirty: and in this case no plasters must be used,
but  apply red cabbage leaves.  It cures  dropsy in
pregnant women, without injury to the mother or
child.   It also alleviates asthma, consumption, and
disorders of the liver.
         Prevention of fire in theatres.
   In consequence of the frequent occurrence  of
fires in theatres, particular  precautions have been
taken with the theatre  of the  Port St Martin, at
Paris.   A thick wall of hewn  stone separates the
audience part  from the  scenic part of the house;
all the doors in it are of iron, and may be shut  in-
stantly in case of fire; finally, the  insulation ot the
spectators from the stage is made perfect by means
of a screen of plates of iron, which falls down be-
fore the stage.  This screen, which weighs between
1 200 and  1,300  pounds, is easily worked by two
men and slides up and  down  upon guides, so as
readily to take its  place.  Besides these  precau-
tions reservoirs of water are established in the
roof/which may be connected, when necessary,
with vessels of compressed air, and made to throw
a powerful jet over a very large part ot the build-

ing-                ™
                    Tanning.
   \ tanner, named  Rapedius,  of  Bern Castel, on
the Moselle, has discovered a  new species of tan
nrooer for dressing leather.  It is the plant known
by the name of bilberry or whortleberry, (vaccini-
 1     3 A
urn myrtilus or myrtillis,) which should be gather-
ed in spring, because at tliis season  it dries more
readily, and is more easily ground.  Three pounds
and a half of this tan suffice  for dressing a pound
of leather, while six pounds are required from the
oak to produce  the same effect.   By this new pro-
cess, tanners can gain four months out of the time
required for preparing strong  leather.  A com-
mission having been appointed at  Treves to ex-
amine the leather so prepared, reported, that they
had never seen  any as  good, and that  every pair
of shoes made therefrom  lasts two  months more
than what are manufactured from common leather;
that the skin of the neck,  which  it  is  difficult to
work, becomes  strong and elastic like that  of the
other parts.  The shrub should not  be pulled up,
but cut with a bill, to obtain  the reproduction of
the plant the following year.   When cut, damp
does not deteriorate  it,  which is not the case with
oak bark, which loses ten per cent, of its value by
being Avetted.
Method of obtaining roses of all kinds twice in the
                     year.
  The folloAving directions, by M. Douette Richar-
dot, are to enable the amateur to gather as fine roses
in September as he did  in  the preceding June:—
1. Immediately after the first flowering, the  shrub
is to be deprived of every leaf, and those branches
Avhich have borne  roses cut, so  that only two or
three buds shall remain.  The cutting of the weak-
er branches may be in a less degree.  If the weather
be dry when the leaved are removed, it will be ne-
cessary to thoroughly water the stem,  for several
days, with the  rose of the  watering-pot:  in this
way the  sap  will not be  arrested.   2. Then the
brush is to be used, and the rose tree well cleansed
by it, so that all  mouldiness shall disappear; this
operation is  very easy  after an abundant rain.  3.
The earth about the rose tree is to  be disturbed,
and then twenty-four sockets of calves' feet are to
be placed in the earth round  the "/.em, and about
four inches distant from it.  The hoofs of young
calves are the  best, and  give a vivid colour and
agreeable perfume to the roses.  These are to be
placed with the points downwards, so that the cups
shall be nearly  level with the surface of the earth,
and the plant well surrounded.   This operation is
to be repeated in the November following.  These
hoofs, dissolved by the  rain or the waterings, form
an excellent manure, which hastens the vegetation,
and  determines the reproduction of flowers.  4.
Two  waterings per week will suffice in ordinary
weather, and they should  be  made  with the rose
of the watering-pot, so that the hoofs may be filled;
but, if the atmosphere  is dry, il will be necessary
to water the plants every evening; and in  the lat-
ter case it will be necessary, from time to time, to
direct the  stream of water on  to the head of the
tree.
         Gooseberry and currant wines.
  The following method of making superior goose-
berry and  currant  wines  is recommended  in a
French  work;—For currant wine, eight pounds of
honey are dissolved in  fifteen  gallons of boiling
water, to which, when clarified, is added the juice
of eight  pounds of red  or white currants.   It is
then  fermented for  twenty-four  hours, and two
pounds of sugar to every two gallons of water are
added.   The preparation is afterwards clarified
with the whites ot eggs and cream of tartar.—For
gooseberry wine, the fruit is gathered dry when
about half ripe, and then  pounded in a mortar.
The juice,  when properly  strained through a can-
vas bag, is mixed with  sugar, in the proportion of
three pounds to every two gallons of juice.   It is
then left in a quiet state for fifteen days, at the ex-
piration of which it is  carefully poured  off, and 
402
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 left to ferment for three months when the quantity
 is under fifteen gallons, and for five months when
 double that quantity.  It is then bottled, and soon
 Decomes fit for drinking.
             To solder tortoise-shell.
   To solder two pieces of  shell together, the two
 edges  which are  to be joined, must be bevelled, or
 chamfered; taking care that the same inclination
 be given to both, and that they may perfectly fit
 each other.  They are then to be placed one upon
 the otlier, and  when the joint is  well fitted, a strip
 of paper is to be wrapped firmly round ttiem, so as
 to form three or four thicknesses; the whole should
 be secured by a piece of thread.  A  pair of pin-
 cers resembling small smiths'tongs, or the pinch-
 ing irons used  by hair dressers, must be heated,
 the mouth  of which must be of sufficient length to
 embrace the Avhole joint; these are to be squeezed
 together, until the shell  will  bend by its oavii
 Aveight, or by the application ofa small force Avith
 the finger.   The tongs are then to be removed, and
 when cooled, the piece will be  found to be  per-
 fectly  soldered.  Care  must  be taken  that  the
 tongs be,not too much heated, otherwise, instead
 of soldering, they will burn the shell: to prevent
 this, they must be tried  by pinching white paper
 betiveen them; Avhen they are of such a tempera-
 ture as to scorch  it very slightly, they are then fit
 for use.
 Qualities of the animal and vegetable food com-
               monly used in diet.
   Beef.—When  this is the flesh of a bullock of
 middle age, it affords good and strong nourishment,
 and is  peculiarly well adapted to those who labour,
 or take much exercise. It will often sit  easy upon
 stomachs that can digest no other kind of food;
 and  its fat is  almost as easily digested  as that of
 veal.
   Veal is a proper  food for .persons recovering
 from indisposition, and may even  be given to fe-
 brile patients  in a very weak  state, but it affords
 less nourishment than the flesh ofthe same animal
 in a state of maturity.  The fat of it is lighter than
 that of any other animal, and  shows the  least dis-
 position  to putrescency.   Veal is a very suitable
 food in costive  habits; but of all meat it is the least
 calculated for removing acidity from the  stomach.
   Mutton, from the age of four to  six years,  and
 fed on  dry pasture, is an excellent meat.   It is of
 a middle kind  between the firmness of beef and
 Mie tenderness  of veai.  The lean part of mutton,
 however, is the most nourishing and conducive to
 health; the fat being hard of digestion.  The head
 ofthe sheep, especially when divested ofthe skin,
 is very tender; and the feet,  on account of the
jelly they contain, are highly nutritive.
   Lamb is not so nourishing as mutton; but it is
 light, and extremely suiv.ible to  delicate stomachs.
   House lamb,  though much  esteemed  by many,
 possesses the bad qualities common to the flesh ot
 all animals reared in an unnatural manner.
  Pork affords rich and substantial nourishment;
 and its juices  are wholesome when properly fed,
 and when the animal enjoys pure air and exercise.
 But the flesh of hogs reared in towns is both hard
 of digestion and  unwholesome.   Pork is particu-
 larly  improper for those  who  are liable to  any
 foulness  of the skin.  It is almost proverbial, that
 a dram is good for promoting its  digestion:  but
 this is  an erroneou-s notion; for though a dram may
 give a  momentary stimulus to the coats of the  sto-
 mach,  it tends to harden the flesh, and of course to
 make it more indigestible.
   Smoked hams  are a strong kind  of meat,  and
 rather fit for a relish than for diet.  It is the quali-
 ty of all salted meat that the  fibres hecome rigid,
 and therefore more difficult of digest on;  and when
i to this is added smoking, the heat  of the chimney
I occasions the salt to concentrate, and the fat between
 the muscles sometimes to become rancid.
   Bacon is also of an indigestible quality, and is
 apt to turn rancid on weak stomachs; but for those
 in health  it is an excellent food,  especially when
 used with fowl or veal, or even eaten with peas,
 cabbages,  or cauliflowers.
   Goat's flesh is hard  and indigestible; but that
| of kids is  tender, as well as delicious,  and affords
 good nourishment                    '
   Venison, or the flesh of deer, and that of hares,
 is of a nourishing quality, but is liable to the in-
 convenience, that, though  much  disposed to pu-
 trescency of itself,  it must be kept  for a little time
 before  it becomes tender.
   The blood of animals is used as an aliment by
 the common people, but they could  not long sub-
 sist upon it unless mixed Avith oatmeal, &c: for it
 is not very soluble, alone, by th^.- digestive powers
 of the human stomach, and therefore cannot prove
 nourishing.
   Milk is  of very different consistence in different
 animals; but that of cows being the  kind used in
 diet, is at present the objeet of our attention.  Milk,
 where it agrees with the stomach, affords excellent
 nourishment for those who are weak, and cannot
 digest other aliments.   It does not  readily become
 putrid, but it is apt to become sour on the stomach,
 and thence to  produce flatulence,  heart-burn, or
 gripes, and in some constitutions a looseness. The
 best milk is from a cow at three or four years of
 age, about tAvo months  after producing a calf.  II
 is lighter, but more watery, than the milk of slieep
 and goats; while,  on  the other hand,  it is more
 thick and heavy than the milk of asses and mares,
 which are next in consistence to human milk.
   On account of the acid which is generated  after
 digestion,  milk coagulates in all stomachs; but the
 caseous or cheesy part is again dissolved by the di-
 gestive juices, and rendered fit for the purposes
 of nutrition.  It is improper to eat acid substances
 with milk, as these would tend to prevent the due
 digestion of it.
   Cream is very nourishing, but, on account of its
 fatness, is difficult to be digested in  weak stomachs.
 Violent exercise, after  eating it,  will, in a little
 time, convert it into butter.
   Butter.—Some writers inveigh against the use
 of butter as universally pernicious; but they might
 wilh equal reason condemn all vegetable oils, « Inch
 form a considerable part of diet in the southern
 climates, and  seem to have been  beneficially in-
 tended by nature for  that purpose.  Butter, like
 every other oily substance, h;is doubtless a relaxing
 quality, and if long retained in the stomach, is lia-
 ble  tc become rancid; but, if eaten in moderation,
 it will  not produce those effects.   It is, however,
 improper in bilious constitutions.  The worst con-
 sequence produced by butter,  when ealen  with
 bread,  is, that it obstructs the discharge of the sa-
 liva, in the act of mastication or cheAving; by which
 means the  food is not so easily digested.  To ob-
 viate this effect, it ivould be a commendable prac-
 tice at breakfast, first to eat  some dry bread,  and
 chew it well, till the salivary glands were exhaust-
 ed,  and afterwards to eat it with butter.  By these
 means  such a quantity of saliva might  be carried
 into the stomach as would be sufficient for the pur-
 pose of digestion.
   Cheese is likewise  reprobated  by many as ex-
 tremely uiiAvholesome.   It is doubtless not easy of
 digestion;  and when eaten in a great quantity, may
 overload the stomach; but if taken sparingly,  its
 tenacity may be dissolved by the digestive juices,
 and it may yield a wholesome, though not very
 nourishing chyle.   Toasted cheese is agreeable to 
MISCELLANEOUS.
403
most palates, but it is rendered more indigestible
oy that process.
  Fowls.—The flesh of birds differs in quality ac-
cording to the food on which  they live.   Such as
feed upon grain  and berries, afford, in  general,
good nour.shment;  if we except geese and ducks,
which are hard of digestion, especially the former.
A young  hen or chicken  is tender and  delicate
food, and extremely well adapted where the diges-
tive powers are weak.   But of all tame fowls, the
capon is the most nutritious.
  'J'urkeys, &c.—Turkeys, as well as  Guinea or
India foAvls, afford a substantial nutriment, but are
not so easy of digestion as the common domestic
fowls.   In all birds those parts are the most firm,
which  are  most  exercised:  in  the small birds,
therefore, the wings, and  in the  larger kinds the
legs, are commonly the most difficult of digestion.
  Wild fowls.— The flesh of wild birds,  in gene-
ral, though more  easily digested, is less nourishing
than that of quadrupeds, as being more dry on ac-
count of their  almost constant  exercise.   Those
birds are notwholesome which subsist upon Avorms,
insects, and nshes.
  Eggs.—The eggs of birds are  a simple and
wholesome aliment.  Those of the turkey are su-
perior in all the qualifications of food.  The white
of eggs is  dissolved in a warm temperature, but
by much heat it is rendered tough and hard.  The
yolk contains much oil, and is highly nourishing,
but has a strong tendency to putrefaction; on which
account, eggs are  improper for people  of weak
stomachs, especially when  they are not quite fresh.
Eggs boiled hard or fried are difficult of digestion,
and are rendered still more indigestible by the ad-
dition  of  butter.  All eggs  require a sufficient
quantity of salt,  to promote  their solution in the
stomach.
  Fish, though some of them be light and easy of
digestion, afford  less nourishment than A'egetables,
or the flesh of quadrupeds, and are, of all the ani-
mal tribes, the most disposed to putrefaction. Salt
water fish are, in general, the best; but when salted,
though less disposed to putrescency, they become
more difficult of digestion.  Whitings and flounders
are the most easily digested.  Acid  sauces, and
pickleSjby resisting putrefaction, are a proper ad-
dition to fish, both  as they retard putrescency, and
correct  the relaxing tendency of butter, so gene-
rally used with this kind of aliment.
   Oysters  and  cockles are  eaten both  raw and
dressed: but in the former state  they are prefera-
ble, because  heat dissipates considerably their nu-
tritious parts as well as the salt water, which pro-
motes their digestion in the stomach; if not eaten
very sparingly, they generally prove laxative.
  Muscles and periwinkles are far inferior to oys-
ters, both  in point of digestion and nutriment
Sea muscles  are  by some supposed to be of a poi-
sonous nature; but though  this opfr w is not much
countenanced by  experience, the  saiest way  is to
eat them Avith  vinegar, or some  other vegetable
acid.
  Bread.__At  the  head  of the  vegetable  class
stands bread, that article of diet  which, from ge-
neral use, has received the name  of the staff' of
life.  Wheat is the grain chiefly used for  the pur-
pose in  this country, and is among the most nutri-
tive of all the farinaceous  kinds,  as it  contains a
great deal of starch.  Bread is very properly eaten
with animal food, to correct the disposition to pu-
trescency; but is  most expedient with such articles
of diet as contain much nourishment  in  a small
bulk,  because it then serves to give the  stomach a
proper degree of expansion.   But as it produces a
slimy chyle, and  disposes to costiveness,  it ought
uot to be eaten  in a large quantity.  To render
bread easy of digestion,  it ought to be  well fer-
mented and baked, and it neve, should be used till
it has stood twenty-four hours after being taken out
of the oven, otherwise it  is apt to occasion various
complaints in those who have weak stomachs; such
as flatulence, heart-burn, watchfulness,  and  the
like.   The  custom of eating  butter  with  bread,
hot from the oven,  is compatible only with very
strong digestive powers.
  Pastry, especially when  hot, has all the  disad-
vantages of hot bread and butter, and even buttered
toast, though the  bread be  stale, is scarcely infe-
rior in its effects on a weak stomach.  Dry toast,
with butter, is by far  the wholesomest breakfast
Brown wheaten bread, in which there is a good
deal of rye, though not so nourishing as that made
of fine flour, is both palatable and wholesome,  but
apt to become sour on Aveak stomachs.
  Oats, barley, and rice___Oats, when  deprived
of the husk, and particularly barley, Avhen pro-
perly prepared, are each of them  softening, and
afford wholesome and  cooling nourishment.   Rice
likeAvise contains  a nutritious mucilage, and is less
used in Great Britain than it deserves, both on  ac-
count of its wholesomeness and economical utility.
The notion of its  being  hurtful to the sight is 9
vulgar error.  In some constitutions it tends to in-
duce costiveness;  but this seems to be owing  chiefly
to flatulence,and may be corrected by the addition of
some spice, such as caraways, aniseed, and the like
  Potatoes are an agreeable and wholesome food,
and yield nearly as much nourishment as  any of
the roots used in  diet.  The farinaceous  or mealy
kind is in general the most easy of digestion, and
they are much improved by  being toasted or  baked.
They ought almost always to be eaten with meat,
and never Avithout salt.   The salt should be boiled
with ihem.
   Green fieas and beans,  boiled in their fresh state
are both agreeable to the taste and wholesome
being neither so flatulent, nor so difficult  of diges-
tion, as in their ripe state; in which they resemble
the other  leguminous vegetables.   French beam
possess much the same qualities; but yield a more
watery juice, and have a greater disposition to pro-
duce flatulence.   They ought to be eaten with some
spice.
  Salads, being eaten raw, require  good  digestive
powers, especially those  of the cooling kind; and
the addition of  oil and vinegar, though  qualified
with mustard, hardly  renders the free use of them
consistent with a  Aveak stomach.
   Sjrinach affords a  soft lubricating aliment,  but
contains little nourishment.  In weak stomachs it
is apt  to produce acidity, and frequently a loose-
ness.   To  obviate these effects, it ought always to
be well beaten, and but little butter mixed with il.
  Asparagus is a nourishing article in  diet, and
promotes the secretion of urine; but in  common
with the vegetable class, disposes a little to flatu-
lence.
  Artichokes resemble asparagus in their  quali-
ties, but seem to  be more nutritive, and  less diu-
retic.
   Cabbages  are  some of  the  most  conspicuous
plants in  the garden. They do not afford much
nourishment, but  are an agreeable addition to ani-
mal food, and not quite so flatulent as the  common
greens.  They  are likewise diuretic, and  some-
what laxative.  Cabbage  has a  stronger tendency
to putrefaction than most other vegetable  substan-
ces; and, during its putrefying  state,  sends forth
an offensive smell, much  resembling that of putre-
fying animal bodies.   So far, however, from pro-
moting a putrid disposition  iu the human body, it
is, on  the  contrary, a wholesome  aliment  in  the
true putrid scurvy. 
 404                            UNIVERSAL  C

    Turnips  are  a nutritious article of vegetable
 food, but not very ~-asy of digestion, and are flatu-
 lent  This effect is in a good measure obviated,
 by pressing the water out of them before they are
 eaten.
    Carrots contain a considerable quantity of nu-
 tritious juice, but are among the  most flatulent of
 vegetable productions.
    Parsnips are more nourishing and less flatulent
 than carrots, which they also exceed in the sweet-
 ness of their mucilage.  By boiling them in  two
 different waters, they are rendered less flatulent,
 but their other qualities are thereby diminished in
 proportion.
    Parsley is ofa stimulating and  aromatic nature,
 well calculated to make agreeable sauces.   It is
 also a gentle diuretic, but  preferable  in  all  its
 qualities when boiled.
    Celery affords a root both  wholesome and fra-
 grant, but is difficult of digestion  in its  raw state.
 It gives an  agreeable taste  to  soups, as well  as
 renders them diuretic.
    Onions, garlic, and shalots are  all  of a  stimu-
 lating nature, by which they assist digestion, dis-
 solve slimy humours, and expel flatulency.   They
 are, however, most suitable  to persons of a cold
 and phlegmatic constitution.
    Radishes  of all kinds, particularly the  horse
 radish, agree with the  three  preceding  articles in
 powerfully  dissolving slimy humours.   They  ex-
 cite the  discharge of air lodged in the intestines.
   Apples are a wholesome vegetable aliment, and
 in many cases medicinal, particularly in diseases'
 of the breast and complaints arising from phlegm.
 But, in general, they agree best with  the stomach
 when eaten either roasted or boiled.  The more
 aromatic kinds of apples are the  fittest  for eating
 raw.
   Pears resemble much in their  effects  the sweet
 kind of  apples, but have more of  a laxative quali-
 ty, and a greater tendency to flatulence.
    Cherries are in general a wholesome fruit, when
 they agree with the stomach, and  they are benefi-
 cial in many diseases, especially those of the putrid
 kind.
   Plums are nourishing, and  have besides an at-
 tenuating, as well as  a laxative, quality, but are apt
 to produce flatulence.  If eaten fresh, and  before
 they are ripe, especially in  large quantities, they
 occasion colics, and other complaints of the bowels.
   Peaches  are  not of a very nourishing quality,
 but they abound  in juice, and are serviceable  in
 bilious complaints.
   Apricots are more pulpy than peaches,  but are
 apt to ferment, and produce acidities in weak sto-
 machs.   Where  they  do not disagree they  are
 cooling, and tend likewise to correct a disposition
 to putrescency.
    Gooseberries and currants, when ripe, are si mil-
 iar in their qualities to cherries, and when used in
 * green  state, they are agreeably cooling.
    Strawberries are an agreeable,  cooling aliment,
 uid are accounted good in cases of gravel.
    Cucumbers are  cooling,  and agreeable  to  the
 palate in hot weather;  but to prevent them from
 •roving  hurtful to the stomach, the juice ought to
 be squeezed out after they are sliced, and vinegar,
 pepper,  and salt, afterwards added.
    Tea.—By some, the use of this exotic is con*
 demned in terms the most vehement and unouali-i-
 Bed, while  others  have either asserted ils  inno»
 cence, or gone so far as to ascribe to it salubrious,
»and even extraordinary virtues.  The truth seems
 to lie between these two extremes; there is how-
 ever an essential difference in the effects of green
 tea and of black, or of bohea; the  former of which
 is much more apt to affect the nerves of the sto-
ECEIPT BOOK.

 mach than the latter, more especially when dranl
 without cream, and  likewise without  bread an«
 butter.  That, taken in a  large quantity, or at  a
 later hour than usual, tea often produces watchful-
 ness, is a point that cannot be denied; but if usee
 in moderation, and accompanied with  the  addi*
 lions just noAV mentioned,  it does not sensibly dis-
 cover any hurtful effects, but greatly relieves an
 oppression ofthe  stomach, and abates a pain ofthe
 head.   It ought always  to be made of a moderate
 degree of strength: for if too weak  it certainly re-
 laxes the stomach.  As it has an astringent taste,
 which  seems not very consistent with  a relaxing
 power, there is ground for ascribing this effect not
 so much to the herb itself  as to the  hot Avater,
 which  not  being  impregnated with  a  sufficient
 quantity of tea, to oorrect  its own  emollient ten-
 dency,  produces a relaxation, unjustly  imputed  to
 some noxious quality of the  plant   But tea, like
 every other commodity, is liable  to damage, and
 when this happens, it may produce effects not ne-
 cessarily connected with its original qualities.
   Coffee.—It is alloAved that coffee promotes di-
 gestion, and  exhilarates the animal spirits; be-
 sides which, various other qualities are  ascribed  to
 it, such as dispelling flatulency, removing dizzi-
 ness of the head,  attenuating viscid humours, in-
 creasing the circulation of the hlood, and conse-
 quently perspiration; but  if drank  too strong,  it
 affects the nerves, occasions watchfulness, and tre-
 mor of the hands; though in some phlegmatic con-
 stitutions it is apt to produce sleep.   Indeed, it  is
 to persons of that habit that coffee is well accom-
 modated; for to people of  a thin and dry  habit of
 body it seems to  be  injurious.  Turkey  coffee  is
 greatly preferable in flavour to that of the West
 Indies.   Drank, only in the quantity of one  dish,
 after dinner, to promote digestion,  it answers best
 Avithout either sugar or milk: but if taken at other
 times, it should have both; or in place  of the lat-
 ter, rather cream, which  not only improves the
 beverage, but tends to mitigate the  effect  of coffee
 upon the nerves.
   Chocolate  is a nutritive  and wholesome compo-
 sition, if  taken in a small quantity, and not re-
 peated too often;  but is generally  hurtful to the
 stomach of those with whom  a vegetable diet dis-
 agrees.   By  the addition of vanilla  and other in-
 gredients, it is made too heating, and so much af-
 fects particular constitutions as to excite nervous
 symptoms, especially complaints of tly^head.
                Food for horses.
   A practice  is becoming general in  Silesia of
 feeding horses with  bread, made by taking equal
 quantities of oat and rye meal, mixing it with lea-
 ven or yeast, and adding one third of the quantity
 of boiled potatoes.  To each horse is given 12 lbs,
 per day, in  rations of 4 lbs. each.  The  bread  is
 cut into small  pieces,  and  mixed  with a  little'
 moistened  ev.' =traw.  It  is  staled  that by this
 means there  is a saving in  feeding seven horses of
 49 bushels of oats in  24  days, while  the horses
 perform their common labour, and are  much bet-
 ter in look, health and disposition.
   Another improvement in the feeding of horses,
 consists '!>i the substitution for hay and corn, of cut
 straw and potatoes, or straw,  chaff,  and  pounded
 furze mixed, wetted with salt water.   The process
 of preparing it is as follows:  Let a tub full of fresh
 water, with an egg in  it, be  impregnated with as
 much domestic salt as  will cause the  egg lo rise
 and float on the surface, that being the criterion of
 its saltness being  equal to  that of sea water.   The
 provender  being  put  into a  wicker baskel, and
 placed or. the tub, pour the salted water upon it, in
 quantity sufficient to  wet the  whole  mass, and
 when it shall have done filtering through it, give it 
MISCELLANEOUS.
405
-   the horses.   The salted water  will not only
listen and sweeten the food, but also operate as
a  »08t efficient  alterative  to  purify the  blood,
purge all gross  humours, prevent the increase of
worms, and all painful attacks from  those trouble-
some vermin.   Horses  fed  in  this manner will
work well, and will be fit for all sorts of work.  A
man cuts with one  knife machine,  m four hours,
enough of  wheaten straw to last nine horses for
twenty-four hours.
         Original receipt for sore eyes.
  Take 1 ounce of white copperas,  dissolve it in a
quart of water, and apply it to  the  co. «ers of the
eyes three or four times a day, or even every hour.
The ej es will smirt much  during the administra-
tion of the  lotion.
  A table-spoonful for an adult, a tea-spoonful for
a child, of cream of tartar, dissolved in half a tum-
bler of water,  may be taken inwardly, once a day,
while using the above.
The bark of the  stem of the pomegranate, a spe-
     cific in the aire of tsenia, or tape worm.
  " I have repeatedly put to the test  of  trial in
cases of tsenia, with uniform  success, the  dried
bark ofthe stem  of the pomegranate shrub, both
in decoction and  in powder, without exciting  any
other sensation than those which  arise from the
fresh bark of the root  of the plant.  I have also
ascertained, by  frequent  trials, that the virtues
of  the bark  may be  preserved   several years.
Some bark ofthe stem, which I have had upwards
of four years,  packed in  a deal box, I have re-
cently tried in several cases of tsenia with per-
fect success; so that I have no hesitation  what-
ever in recommending this drug,  not only as a
safe, but as a perfectly certain  remedy for expul-
sion of tsenia.   This drug is equally efficacious in
expelliii" from the lower animals (especially dogs),
taenia.  To full grown dogs may be  given the same
dose as that taken by adults.   The  powder mixed
with butter or minced meat, is  as good a  form as
any; some  dogs will of themselves eat it when pre-
pared in this manner.   The powder may also be
given in balls, or the decoction may be substituted
with equt.1 effect.   We are indebted, it seems, for
our knowledge of this invaluable  remedy for the
tape worm to a mussulman fakeer, named Azim-
shah, who, in 1804, having relieved, in a few hours,
Mr Robert Home, of Calcutta, of  a  taenia which
measured  36 feet in length, was prevailed on,  by a
reward of two gold  molars,  to disclose the  se-
cret
 Varnish for boots and shoes, by which they are ren-
           dered impervious to water.
  Take a pint of linseed oil, with £ lb. of mutton
suet, 6 or 8 oz. of bees'-wax, and a small piece of
rosin.  Boil all  these in a pipkin, and let the liquid
cool till it  is milk warm. Then, with a hair-brush,
lay it on new boots or shoes. If old boots or shoes
are to be varnished, the mixture is to be laid on
when the leather is perfectly dry.           ,
                Sympathetic ink.
   The following application ofa modern chemical
discovery  has  never before been communicated to
the public, and affords a sympathetic ink very far
superior to any, as yet, in use.   Dissolve  a smal
quantity of starch in a saucer, wilh  soft water, and
use the  liquid like common  ink: when  dry, no
traces ofthe writing will appear on the paper, and
the letters can be developed- only by a weak solu-
tion of iodine in alcohol, when  they will appear ot
a deep purple colour, which will not be effaced un-
til after long exposure to the atmosphere,  bo per-
manent are the traces left by the starch, that  they
cannot, when dry, be effaced by Indian rubber; and
in another case, a letter, which had been carried in
Ihe pocket for a  fortnight, had the  secret  charac
ters displayed at once, by being very sPghtly moist-
ened with the above mentioned preparation.
Preservation of wood by charcoal—especially ap-
             plied to waters-spouts.
  Lay on a good coat of drying oil, then immedi-
ately dust it over with a thick layer of charcoal,
finely powdered, and contained  in a muslin bag.
After two or three days, when the oil is thorough-
ly dried, brush off the loose particles of the char-
coal, and cover that which  adheres with a coat of
paint, and a few days after  a second.  The whole
will become a  firm and solid crust,  and preserve
the wood sound many years.
  N. B. The charcoal  should  be fresh  made, or
heated again in close vessels, so as to  expel the
water which it greedily attracts from the air.  The
most suitable paint is the common lead colour, but
any other will  do.
Method of packing seeds  for  transportation, so
  that they may retain their vegetative property.
  The lovers of plants, or those who wish to have
seeds transported to distant  countries, ought to ob-
serve the precautions which follow, in order that
the seeds may germinate,  when they  have  been
sown.  The means of effecting this, which we are
about to make known, are  those which have been
followed by that distinguished botanist, M.  Sou-
lange Bodin, who has had  long experience in this
business.
  All seeds, intended for transportation, should be
collected in a state of perfect maturity.  The finer
seeds may be enclosed  in good paper bags,  but
those which are larger must be placed in layers,
in very dry sand, and the whole packed in  air tight
vessels.  The stratification in dry sand is a pre-
caution which  alone Avould preserve their germina-
ting  property for many years, and during  the
longest voyages.  Saw dust is also a good article,
but it is necessary to take the precaution of placing
it in an oven, as we do bran, when we wish to pu-
rify it  from mites, or from the eggs of other in-
sects.  Oleaginous seeds, Avhich are liable soon to
become rancid, such as those  of the coffee plant,
the oak,  nut trees, the tea tree, &c. require, when
stratified, to be kept wilh great care separate from
each other, in sand  which is very fine, and very
dry.  Those which  are  of a middle size, may be
sent in their pericarps, enclosed air tight  in small
cups  or pots, by covers of glass, fixed  on  Avith
putty; or of wood  or cork, imbedded  in melted
wax, or, which is better, in melted pitch.
   Juicy seeds must be separated from each other,
as contact would, sooner or later, inevitably cause
a fermentation which would destroy them.  Rox-
burg dips them into  a solution of gum arabic; this,
as it hardens, forms a  coat which defends them
against every principle of destruction, and enables
him to transmit them from the Coromandel coast
to  Europe,   without   undergoing  the   slightest
change.
   With respect to bulbous  roots, and other plants
with roots, which always require a length of from
two  to three feet in  their shoots or slips,  it is best
to place them either in earth, taken from  the spot
where the plant vegetates freely, or in some  other
earth well diyided and mixed, and  rather too dry
than too  moist; the mould formed of the rotten
trunks of trees is very good for the purpose; but it
is necessary to ascertain that  it does not contain
 insects.
   Vegetables, treated  in  this  way,  have  been
 brought by M. Perrottet from* the South Sea, and
 have all lived.   The whole may be enclosed in lit-
 tle wooden casks well hooped, and covered, inside
and out, with a bituminous coating.   So situated,
 seeds  are unalterable;.arid when  the  vessels  are
 well closed, neither insects, external air, moisture 
406
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
 or even her*., can gain admittance.  It is above all
 things necessary (notwithstanding some ill founded
 theories) to he careful not  to use fresh moss, or
 immersion in wax, or in pitch; plants  sent in this
 way, from the torrid  zone to France, have arrived
 either decayed, or quite dried up.
              Remedy for gravel.
  Take of the essential oil of spruce, 1  scruple,
 spirit of nitric ether,  1 oz.  Mix.  A tea-spoonful
 to be taken two or three times a day, in a tea-cup-
 ful of the decoction of marsh-mallow root.
  Another.—Great relief has been derived from
 the use of the following mixture, in some obstinate
 cases of stone and gravel.
  Take of the rectified oil  of turpentine, sweet
 spirit of nitre, oil  of juniper, balsam of sulphur,
 each half an oz.   Mix.  Fifteen or sixteen drops
 to be taken, in a wine-glassful of water, 3 times a
 day.
  Anothei-.—Take  of Venice turpentine, 1  oz.
 powdered gi.m arabic, 2 oz. powdered grains of
 paradise, and powdered jalap-root, each 2 drachms,
 balsam  copaiva,  sufficient to form an electuary.
 The size of a walnut to be taken twioe a day.
  Another-.—Take of Venice turpentine,  Castille
 soap, rhubarb  powder,  extract of cascarilla, each
 one drachm, essential  oil of juniper, 30 drops.
 Mix well together, and divide into 50 pills. Three
to be taken twice  a  day, with a wine-glassful of an
infusion of wild carrot seed.
  Another.—-'fake  of  Alicant  soap,  8 oz. fresh
lime, finely powdered, 1 oz. oil of tartar, 1 drachm.
With  sufficient quantity of wat^r for a mass, and
divide  it into 5 grain  pills; from 3 to  4 of which
should be taken daily.   This is the celebrated re-
ceipt of Mrs Stevenson for stone and  gravel, im-
proved by Dr Hartley.
  Another.—Boil  36  raw coffee-berries  for one
hour in a quart of soft spring or river Avater, then
bruise  the berries  and boil them again  another
hour in the same water; add thereto a quarter ofa
tea-spoonful of the  dulcified spirit of nitre,  and
take daily a half-pint cup of it at any hour that is
convenient; its efficacy will  be experienced after
taking  it for two months.
  African remedy.—The following means  of cur-
ing the stone have lately been published by an Af-
rican  negro:—" Take a quarter of a  pint of  the
expressed juice of horse-mint, and a quarter of a
pint of red onion juice, evening and morning, till
the cure is perfected.   White onions will not have
the same effect as red.   To obtain  the  juice they
may  be cut in  thin slices,  and well  salted, and
bruised between two pewter plates.  It is, however,
the  juice of horse-mint Avhich possesses the most
virtue in this disorder; a strong decoction of Avhich
will, generally, in  time, effect a cure."
    Removal of biliary calculi or gall stones.
  The Bibliolheque Medicale for August, 1813,
contains an account of a wonderful cure of obstruc-
tion in the  liver, occasioned by biliary  calculi,
The remedy employed consisted of a combination
of 3  oz. of sulphuric  ether, with  2 oz. of oil of
turpentine.  The dose of this mixture  Avas half a
drachm every morning and evening, with a draught
of milk-whey, or veal broth, immediately after-
wards.  Fifteen  calculi,  each of  the  size of an
olive,  were voided during the six months that this
soivent Avas administered; after Avhich the  patient
was restored to  perfect health.   M.   Guyton de
Morveau recommends a combination of  ether, with
the volk of eggs, as giving less pain than that of
ether  and turpentine, when the patient  sutlers
much  from the expulsion of  the calculi.
                Sudden death.
  When sudden death happens in the street, the
nearest door should be immediately opened for the
  reception of the body.  In  all cases,  interment
  should be deferred till signs of putrefaction appear,
  but especially in those where no gradation of dis-
  ease has preceded, as in cases of hysterics, apo-
  plexy, external injuries, drowning, suffocation, and
  the like.  The effects of sound upon animal life is
  astonishing.  The beat of a drum may have a very
  beneficial effect upon persons in a state of suspend-
  ed animation.  At  one time, a scream, extorted
  by grief, proved the means of resuscitating a per-
  son who was supposed to be dead, and who had
  exhibited the usual recent marks of the extinction
  of life.
        Cautions against premature interment.
    In cases of malignant fevers, putrescencv ad-
  vances speedily,  and,  under  such  circumstances,
  the time of the funeral ought not to be unnecessa-
  rily protracted; but this ought never to be the case
  in northern climates, and  in temperate or even
  cool Aveather.  Young persons, in  the bloom  of
  health and vigour, may  be  struck down by an ill-
  ness of only a few days, or  even hours,  but they
  ought not to be consigned  to the  same  summary
 I sentence, merely because custom has ordained it
  No sooner has breathing  apparently  ceased, and
  the visage assumed a ghastly or death-like look,
  than the  patie-,t, after his  eyes are closed, is too
  often hurried into a coffin, and the body, scarcely
  yet cold, is  precipitated into the grave.  So ex-
  tremely  fallacious are  the  signs of death, that too
  often  has the  semblance been  mistaken for the
  reality; especially after sudden accidents, or short
  illness.   Many  of these,  however,  by prompt
  means and judicious treatment, have been happily
  restored.
    Assistance to a person in danger of drowning.
    If the spectator is unable to swim, and can make
  the sufferer hear, he ought to direct him to  keep
  his hands and arms under water until assistance
  comes; in the mean time throw towards him a rope,
  a pole, or any thing  that may help  to bring him
  ashore, or on  board; he will eagerly seize  what-
  ever is placed within his reach: thus he may, per-
  haps, be rescued  from his perilous situation.
    But this desirable object  appears attainable  by
  the proper use of a man's hat and pocket handker-
  chief, which, being all the apparatus necessary, is
 I to be used thus: Spread the  handkerchief on the
 i ground,  or deck, and  place a hat, with the brim
 I downwards, on the middle of it; then tie the hand-
 I kerchief round the hat, like a bundle, keeping the
 I knots as near the centre  of the crown as possible,
 I Now, by seizing the knots in one hand, and keep-
  ing the  opening  of the hat  upwards, a person,
  Avithout  knowing  how to  swim, may fearlessly
  plunge into the water,  with whatever  may be ne-
  cessary to save the life of a fellow creature.
    The best manner in  which an expert swimmer
  can lay hold of a  person he  Avishes to save from
  sinking,  is to  grasp his arm firmly between the
  shoulder  and the elbow: this  will prevent him
  from clasping the swimmer in his arms, and thus
  forcing him under water, and, perhaps,  causing
  him to sink with him.
        To escape the effects of lightning.
    When  persons  happen  to  be overtaken by  a
  thunder-storm, although they  may not  be terrified
  by the lightning, yet they naturally wish for shelter
  from the rain which usually attends  it;  and, there-
  fore, if no house  be at hand, generally take refuge
  under the nearest tree they can find.  But in doing
  this, they unknowingly  expose themselves  to  a
  double danger; first, because  their  clothes being
• thus kept dry, their bodies are rendered more lia-
  ble to injury,—the lightning often passing harm-
  less over a body whose surface is Avet; and, second-
  ly, because a  tree, or any efovatcd object, instead 
MISCELLANEOUS.
40"
ot warding off, serves to attract and conduct the
lightning, which, in its passage to the ground, fre-
quently rends the trunks or branches, and kills any
person or animal who  happens to be close to it at
the time.  Instead of seeking protection, then,
by retiring under the shelter of a tree, hay-rick,
pillar, wall,  or hedge,  the person should either
pursue  his Avay to  the nearest house, or get to a
part of  the road or  field which has no high object
that can draw the lightning towards it, and remain
there until the storm has subsided.
  It is particularly dangerous to stand near leaden
spouts,  iron  gates,  or palisadoes, at such times;
metals of all  kinds  having  so  strong an attraction
for lightning, as frequently to draw it out of the
course whieh it would otherwise have taken,
  When in a house, avoid sitting or  standing near
tlie  windoAV,   door, or  walls,  during a  thunder
storm.  The nearer a person is to the middle ofa
room, the better.
  The greatest evil to be apprehended from light-
ning,  is  the explosion  of  powder-magazines.
These  mav,  in  a great degree, be  secured  from
danger by insulation, or by lining the bulk-heads,
and floorings, with materials of a  non-conducting
nature,  the expense of Avhich would not be great
Means of restoring persons who have been fam-
                    ished.
   In our attempts to recover those who have suf-
fered under  the  calamities of famine,  great cir-
cumspection is required.  Warmth,  cordials, and
food, are the  means to be employed; but it is evi-
dent that these may prove too powerful in  their
operation,  if not administered with  caution and
judgment  For the body,  by long fasting, is re-
duced lo a state of more than infantile debility; the
minuter vessels of the brain, and of  the  other or-
gans, collapse for want of  food to distend them;
the stomacn and intestines shrink in their capacity;
and the heart languidly vibrates, having  scarcely
sufficient  energy  to propel  the scanty current of
blood.  Under such circumstances, a proper ap-
plication of heat srems an  essential  measure, and
may be effected, by placing on eaeh side, a healthy
man, in contact with the  patient.   Pediluvia, or
fomentation of the  feet,  may  also  be used  with
advantage.
  The temperature of these should be lower  than
that of the human body,  and gradually increased
according to  the effects of their  stimulus.  New
milk,  weak  broth, or water-gruel,  ought to be
employed, both fop-the one  and the other; as nour-
ishment may be conveyed into the system this way,
by passages, properly the most pervious in a  state
of fasting, if  not too long protracted.
  It appears safer to advise the administration of
cordials in very  small  doses,  and,  at first,  con-
siderably diluted with either wine or spirits; but
—slender wine  whey  will  very well answer this
purpose; and afford, at the  same time, an easy and
pleasant nourishment.  When the  stomach  has
been a little strengthened, an egg  may  be mixed
with the whey, or administered under some other
agreeable form.  The  yolk of one  was, to  Cor-
naro, sufficient for a meal; and the narrative ot that
noble Venetian, in  whom a fever was excited by
the addition of onjv two ounces ot food to his daily
allowance, shows,'that  the return to a full diet
should  be conducted with  great caution, and by
very slow gradations.
               Noxious vapours.
  To prevent the effects of noxious  vapours  from
wells, cellars, fermenting liquors, he. procure  a
free circulation of air, either by ventilators, or
opening the doors or windows where  it is confined,
or by keeping fires in the infected place; or throw-
ing in lime, recently burnt or powdered.
   Old wells, vaults, and sewers, which have been
 long shut up from the  air, are generally occupied
 by vapours which soon prove fatal to persons breath-
 ing them.  The property which these vapours have
 of extinguishing  flame, affords  the means of  de
 tecting their presence, and thereby avoiding  the
 danger of an incautious exposure to them.   When
 such  places, therefore, are opened to be cleaned
 out or repaired,  a lighted candle should be let
 down slowly by means of a cord, before  any per-
 son is suffered to descend; and if it burns freely
' until  it  gets to the surface of the  water,,or other
 matter covering  the bottom, the  workmen may
 then venture down with safety.  But, if without
 any accident, the  candle is extinguished,  and con-
 tinues to be so  on repeated trials, then the air of
 the place is highly noxious.
           To restore and improve flour.
   One pound of the carbonate of magnesia is to be
 well combined with 250 lbs. of musty flour;  that is,
 in the minor proportion of 30 grs. of the carbo-
 nate to 1 lb. of four.   It is to  be leavened  and
 baked in the usual way of making bread. The
 loaves will be found to rise well in the oven, to be
, more light and spongy,  and also whiter than the
 usual Avay.  It  will also  have an  excellent taste,
 and will  keep well. The use of magnesia in bread-
 making is well  Avorthy the  attention of the public,
 for if it  improve  musty flour,  how much  must  it
 improve  bread in general?  The use of magnesia
 in bread, independent  of its  improving qualities,
 is as  much superior to that of alum, as one sub-
 stance can be to another.
       A simple method of preserving fruit.
   The fruit, being picked clean, and not too ripe,
 is to be put into bottles, which must be filled quite
 full.  These bottles, having corks stuck lightly in
 them, are to be placed upright  in a pan of water,
 which is to be heated until  it feels hot to the finger,
 but not so hot as  to scald.  This degree of heat is
 to be kept up half an hour, and then the bottles,
 being taken out, one by one,  are to be filled up to
 within an inch of the cork  with boiling water, the
 cork  fitted very tight,  and the  bottle laid on its
 side that the cork may be moist.  To prevent  fer-
 mentation and mould, the bottles are to be turned
 once or twice a week for a month or two, and once
 or twice  a month afterwards.  Fruit treated in  this
 way will keep for two years or more. When used,
 some of  the liquor, first poured off',  serves to put
 into pies, &c. instead of water;  and the remainder
 being boiled up  with a little sugar, will make  a
 rich and agreeable syrup.   The fruit ought not to
 be cracked by the heat.  Apricots, gooseberries,
 currants, raspberries, cherries, plums of all kinds,
 Siberian crabs,  and rhubarb,  may be preserved in
 this way.
           To cure and preserve butter.
   Reduce  separately to a  fine powder,  in a  dry
 mortar,  2 lbs. of the best, or  whitest common salt,
 1 lb. of salt petre, and 1 lb. of lump  sugar.  Sift
 these ingredients, one above another, on a sheet of
 large paper, and then mix them well together
 Preserve the whole in a covered jar,  placed in  a
 dry situation.   When required to be used, 1 ounce
 of this composition is to be proportioned to every
 pound of butter,  and ivell worked into the mass.
 Butter cured by the  above composition has been
 kept three years, and was as  SAveet as at the first.
 It requires to be  kept three Aveeks or a month  be-
 fore it is used, because  earlier the salts are  not
 sufficiently blended with it. It ought to be packed
 in wooden  vessels, or in jars vitrified  throughout,
 which do not require glazing, because during  the
 decomposition  of the  salts,  they  corrode the
 glazing,  and the butter becomes rancid. 
408
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK,
             Preparation of yeast.
  Mix two quarts  of soft water with wheat flour,
to the consistence of thick gruel; boil it gently for
half an hour, and Avhen almost cool,  stir into it
half a  pound of sugar and four spoonsful of good
veast   Put the whole into a large jug or earthen
vessel, with a narrow top, and place it before the
fire, so that it may, by a moderate heat,  ferment,
The fermentation  will throw up a thin liquor,
which  pour off and throw away;  keep thef remain-
der  for use  fin a cool  place) in a bottle  or jug
tied over.  The same quantity of this as of com-
mon yeast will suffice to bake or brew with. Four
spoonsful of this yeast will  make a fresh quantity
as before, and the stock may always be kept up by
fermenting the new with the remainder ofthe for-
mer quantity.
          To prevent cold feet at night.
  DraAv off the stockings, just before undressing,
and  rub the ankles and  feet  with the hand as hard
as can  be borne for five or ten minutes.   This will
diffuse a pleasurable glow,  and  l.iose who do so,
Avill never  have to complain of cold feet in  bed.
Frequent ivashing, and  rubbing  them thoroughly
dry, with a linen cloth or flannel, is useful  for the
same purpose.   In removing from the feet the ac-
cumulating dirt  that obstructs the pores, we pro-
mote health, by facilitating that perspiration Avhich
nature intended.
To prevent the effects of drinking cild, liquors, in
   warm weather, or when heated by exercise.
  Avoid drinking water whilst warm,  or  drink
only a small quantity at once, and  let it remain a
short time in the mouth before sw&lloAving it, or,
wash the hands and face, and rinse the mouth Avith
cold water before drinking.   If  these precautions
have been  neglected, and the disorder incident lo
drinking cold water, or eating ice when  the body
is heated,  hath  been produced, the first, and, in
most instances, the only remedy to be administer-
ed  is sixty drops of laudanum in spirits and water,
or warm drink of any kind.
  If this  should fail of giving relief,  the same
quantity may be given tiventy minutes afterwards.
   When laudanum  cannot  be obtained, rum and
Avater, brandy and water, or even Avarm water alone,
should be given.
     'To remedy tne effects of dram-dnnkmg.
   Whoever makes the attempt to abandon spirit
drinking, will find, from time to time, a rankling
in the f'omach,  with a sensation of sinking, cold-
ness, and inexpressible anxiety.   This may be re-
lieved by  taking often a cupful of an  infusion of
cloves, made by steeping about  an ounce of  them
in  a pint of boiling  water for six hours, and then
 straining oft' the liquor.  In a state  of permanent
languor and debility, an ounce  and a half of the
 cascarilla bark (beingalso first bruised in a mortar),
 should  be  added  to the infusion.  This mixture,
 taken in the quantity above specified, three times
 u day, will be found a useful strengthener of the
 »tomach and bowels, when they have been disor-
 dered by frequent excess and intoxication.
                To procure sleep.
    Pour a  pint of boiling water on an ounce of Ep-
 som salts. Set it to cool and drink it on going to bed.
 If still disturbed, count from 1 to 1000. Sleep will
 generally come on  before the person has reached
 500.                              ,  ,
    Or, on  going to bed, take a warm bath.
    Or, rub the body well with rough towels or with
  the flesh-brush for a quarter of an hour.  If this
  does  not procure sound sleep, take a tea-spoonful
  of magnesia in a wine-glass of water, with or with-
  out a few drops of hartshorn.
            To relieve head-ache in bed.
    If the head is much disturbed, wash it with cold
Avater,  and discontinue the night-cap:  but wear
worsted stockings in bed.
                 The  air-bath.
  All persons, but especially children,  ought to
resort, at least for a short time every day,  to this
method of enjoying the salubrious influence of that
universal agent.   Dr  Franklin  informs us, that
every morning, at day-break, he got out of bed and
passed half an hour in his chamber, according to
the season, in writing  or reading, without any
clothes; and  this,  he add.i, seems rather pleasant
than otherwise.
             To detect oxalic acid.
  A paragraph has appeared  in the newspapers,
recommending blue sugar-loaf paper as a test of
distinction  between oxalic acid and Epsom salt,
which have been too often mistaken for each other.
It is reddened by the  former, but not  affected by
the latter.   This is perfectly  true; but a simpler
test  consists in wetting the tip of the finger, ap-
plying it first to the supposed salt, and then to the
tongue—if oxalic acid, it tastes very sour;  if Ep-
som salt, very bitter and saline.
  Another test is to  place a drop on the tongue,
the acid will be more apparent, and fetor produced
by the action of this  trivial quantity; the  patient
will, accordingly, soon find occasion to quell its
effects by the saliva or by water.
         To extinguish fire in chimneys.
  Throw, immediately, upon the fire in the grate
or range, a large forkful of wet horse litter, from
the stable or dunghill.   If this be properly man-
aged the steam ascending from the litter will ex-
tinguish the flame in the chimney in less than a
minute.  Care must be taken that the litter be not
so  moist as to put out the fi|e in the grate, and
likewise that it be not  too dry* for in that case  it
would break out into flame, and increase  instead
of lessening the evil.  It is likewise necessary to
add more,  if required, so that the steam  may con-
tinue lo ascend and the fire be entirely extinguish-
ed.
  This method has not only bean found successful
when used in  the narrow chimneys- of towns,  but
also in the wide, spacious chimneys in the  kitch-
ens of country farmers.   It is obvious,  that  any
other materials may be used to produce a sufficient
body of steam to  fill the chimney, provided that
they have  such a quantity of moisture, as to pre-
vent them  bursting out into a flame.
          To extinguish fires effectually.
   As soon as the fire engine is in readiness to work,
stir into the water 7 or 8 pounds of pearl-ash,  and
continue to add the same quantity as occasion re-
quires; taking care that it be  directed against the
timber or wainscot, &c. just  beginning  to burn,
and not wasted  against the brick work.   Where
time will admit, dissolve any quantity of pearl-ash
in  a vessel of water,   and, as  fast as it  dissolves,
(which will be  in a  few  minutes) mix  a pailful
with the Avater, in the  engine, pretty often.  What-
ever burning wood is  played  upon, will be extin-
guished as if it. were dipped in water, and will not
burn afresh.
           To render paper fire proof.
   Whether the paper be plain, written, printed on,
or  even marbled, stained, or painted, for hangings,
dip it in a strong solution of alum Avater, and then
thoroughly dry it. In  this  state it will  be fire
proof.  This will  be  readily known by  holding a
 slip, thus prepared, over a candle.   Some paper
requires to imbibe more of the solution than by a
 single immersion; in  which case the dipping and
 drying must be repeated, till it becomes fully satu-
 rated.  Neither the colour nor quality of the papet
 will be in  the least affected by this process, but, on
 the contrary, will be improved. 
MISCELLANEOUS.
40$
   Security against fires m manufactories, 6?c.
  This desirable end  may be, in a great measure,
answered, by the  introduction of iron staircases.
Common ones will be found to be as cheap as any
kind of wood,  and, where ornament is required,
they may be  made quite as elegant and handsome
is those of the most costly materials. Joists, raf-
ters, and beams, cast IioIIoav of the same metal,
may likewise be used, by which means fire cannot
be  easily  communicated from one  room to ano-
ther.
  Plate-iron roofs have already been adopted, with
more advantage, as to economy, than either tiling,
slating, coppering, or leading.
     'J'o prevent hay-stacks from taking fire.
  Where there is  any reason to fear that the hay
which is intended  to  be housed or stacked is not
sufficiently dry, let a few handsful  of common salt
be scattered between each layer. This, by absorb-
ing the humidity of the hay, not only prevents the
fermentation,  and consequent inflammation of it,
but adds a taste to it, which stimulates the  appe-
tites of cattle, and preserves them  from many dis-
eases.
    Caution to females whose clothes catch fire.
  Extraordinary instances sometimes occur of per-
sons, whose clothes  have by accident  taken fire,
escaping, by adopting means suggested at the mo-
ment from extraordinary presence  of mind.   But
rather than trust to what presents itself during im-
pressions of extreme terror, to a mind totally un-
furnished Avith any fixed mode of proceeding,  it
will perhaps  be better  to lay down  certain rules.
which, being strongly imprinted on the mind, will
serve to direct to the most safe and beneficial line
of conduct.
   1. To call for help,  presents itself to the  mind
instinctively; but this should be done, if possible,
by ringing the  bell, he., without opening the door
of the apartment,  as the external air, rushing in,
will immediately increase the rapidity of  the pro-
gress of the flames.
   2. The first attempt  should be to tear off that
part of the clothing which is in flames, and, if in
a parlour, to seize the water decanter,  (which, for
this reason alone,  should be large,  and kept always
foil), or any other vessel of water which may be
in the room where the accident has happened.
   3. If unsuccessful  in these instantaneous exer-
tions for relief, the unfortunate sufferer should seat
herself on the floor, remembering  that in  this pos-
ture  she will  be  better enabled  to smother  the
flames of her lower garments, and that an upright
 posture will  render the communication ot  the
 flames, to the upper part of her dress, more pro-
 bable.                     .  ,    ,   ,    .,
   4  In this situation, should there be a hearth rug,
 or carpet, (which even for this use, in this moment
 of emergency, should form part of the furniture in
 every room) it will,  from the materials ot which
 it is composed, prove highly useful  in extinguish-
 in^ the flames, when laid over the burning clothes,
 or°wrapped tight  around them.
   5  It has been recommended that persons, whose
 clot'hes have caught fire, should immediately roll
 themselves up in the carpet; but  this  excellent
 method of extinguishing the flames is frequently
 quite impracticable, as it is customary to nail down
 carpets to the floor, and heavy tables or other fur-
 niture are often so placed on the carpet, as to hin-
 der it from being easily rolled up.
    6  A by-stander,  or the first person who is pre-
 sent, should instantly pass  the hand under all the
 clothes to the sufferer's shift, and,  raising the whole
 together,  should close them over the  head,  by
 Eh  "'tans the flame will  indubitably be ext.n-
 cuished. This may be effected in a tew seconds, that
 h     3B
is, in the time that a person can stoop to the floor,.
and rise again.  In  many cases, no other method
can be so ready, expeditious,  and effectual.
  7. The sufferer will facilitate the business,  and>
also  prevent  serious injury,  by covering her face
and  bosom with her hands and arms.—Should it
happen that no person is nigh to  assist her,  she
may, in  most  cases, if she  has the presence of
mind,  relieve herself, by throwing her clothes
over her head, and rolling or  laying upon them.
  8. The  females and children in every family
should be told, and shown, that flame always tends
upwards—and that, consequently,  while they re-
main in an  upright posture, with their  clothes on
fire, (it usually breaking out in the lower part of
the dress),  the flames, meeting additional fuel  as
they rise, become more powerful and vehement in
proportion.
A mode  of preparing paper which shall resist
                   moisture.
  This process consists in plunging unsized paper
once or twice into a clear solution  of mastic in oil
of turpentine, and drying it afterwards by a gentle
heat.  The paper thus prepared, without becom-
ing transparent, has all  the properties of writing
paper, and may be  used  for  that  purpose.  It is
particularly recommended for  passports, for the
books  of porters, and other labourers, and indeed
is desirable  for a  great variety of  purposes for
which  paper  that is capable of absorbing damp is
very inconvenient  When laid by, it is perfectly
secure from  being  injured by mouldiness or mil-
dew, and is not likely to be destroyed by mice or
insects.
A new and  cheap mode  of protecting wall fruit
                     trees.
  To counteract the bad effect caused to fruit by
the change of weather we are so subject  to, a num-
ber of means have been recommended for covering
the trees over in the season of blooming and set-
ting ofthe fruit, such as woollen netting and bunt-
ing (which is a kind of thin woollen stuff made for
flags of ships), but  these, at  the  same  time  they
protect the tree from the cold winds,  require in
fine weather  to be removed to admit a  free circu-
htion, and also the sun's rays, Avhich is attended
with labour.   The  best mode of protecting trees,
in  such cases,  is by afford! ->g it  something  that
may remain  on without the labour of changing it,
and a  very useful and cheap covering of this  kind
I have used  with great success in the  long green
moss found in woods (hypnum of several species.)
This should  be laid next  the wall at the time the
tree is nailed, and  left  its  full  length to wrap
round the smaller branches,  either by the motion
ofthe wind,  the wet, or the frost, either of which
will operate more or less on  it; in diy weather
when  the sun shines it becomes relaxed and spread-
ing, gives  room for the sun  and  air to  get to the
bloom and the young fruit, but by moisture it be-
comes in  some degree  compressed,   and   folds
 round the  branches; it is also the  most  convenient
 covering, approaching in its nature to those opera-
 tions  which  the leaves perform as a protection to
 the fruit in a more advanced state: it is mor.-over
 very cheap, and very easy in  its application.  After
 the fruit is set and  the season advances, it should
 be pulled  out from the branches, as it otherwise
 affords shelter for insects and  vermin when the
 fruit is ripe.
 Plan for  preserving tlie walls  of new buildings
                 from dampness.
   Spread over the  whole  thickness of the Avail, at
 about two feet from the earth, a  layer of pit  coal,
  mingled with  pitch or rosin, and powdered char-
  coal.  This  material,  being soft,  would,  Avhen
 loaded with the weight of the building, fill up all
                                     2 K 
410
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
ihe vacuities, and prevent the access of moisture
most effectually.
On packing up trees for sending  to great dis-
  tances, and aftenvaras planting them again. By
  William Salisbury.
  As I Avas so fortunate some years ago,  as to dis-
cover a mode of preserving such  articles in close
boxes for many months, in which mode  they may
be  conveyed to almost  any  part  of the world, I
think it may be useful to give an  account of it in
this place.
  The  sphagnum  palustre  (a  species  of  moss)
Avhich is the material I have used for this purpose,
is found in great quantities on all peat bogs, grow-
ing generally in the moist places.  It should be
perfectly fresh, and not left any time pulled up be-
fore it is used for the intended purpose.
  As I have endeavoured to discover what proper-
ty this  particular moss  possesses when compared
with others  generally used for packing plants, I
shall remark, that, as its name implies,  it is in a
great  measure  an  aquatic, and consequently not
liable to  injury from moisture, which it has the
power of retaining in  a  wonderful degree, whilst
all  the species  of  hypnum cannot be prevented
from rotting, unless they  are kept perfectly dry;
and although the mosses in general, when moist-
ened with water, are  useful to  wrap round the
roots of trees when packed up, yet they gradually
undergo  a   decomposition,  and  consequently, if
plants  were  completely  enveloped  therein, they
would decay in time from  the same cause, which I
have proved in many instances.
  The  manner in which I have been accustomed to
pack up plants  is as follows:—- When the moss is
collected from  the bogs  in which  it  grows,  it
should  be pressed,  in order to drain out as much
moisture as possible, and,  having boxes prepared
of sufficient size for the young trees (which may
in some instances be shortened in their branches),
I lay in the bottom of the box as much moss as
will, Avhen  pressed with the foot, remain of the
thickness of four inches.  A layer of the plant!
should  then  be  put thereon, observing that the
shoots of" each do not touch,  and that the space of
four inches be left round the  sides; after this ano-
ther layer  of moss, about two  inches  thick, is
placed, and then mor'i plants; and I thus proceed,
till  after the whole of the plants are pressed down
as tight as possible, and the box  filled within four
inches of the top, which space must be filled with
the moss; the contents are then trodden down with
the foot, and the box nailed closely up.
  When trees are  intended to be sent to distant
countries, 1  should advise such to be selected as
are small and healthy, and, when  arrived at  their
place of destination, they should be cut down quite
close, even  to  the second or third eye  from the
graft, or in trees not grafted, as near the former
year's wood as possible; and having prepared  beds,
according to the following mode,  let  them be
planted therein, to serve as a nursery; for trees of
eveiy description suffer so much from  removal,
that unless the weather is particularly favourable,
thev do not recover it for some time, even  Avhen
only transplanted in their native climate   I do not v
think it  advisable, therefore, to plant them at
once, where they are liable to suffer from want of
water,  and other attentions necessary to their per-
fect growth.  1 therefore  recommend beds  to be
thus prepared for them; viz.  On some  level spot
of ground,  mark  out  beds five  feet wide, and
leave walks or  alleys  between  them, of two feet
wide, throwing  a portion of the  earth out of the
beds upon the alleys, so as to leave them  four
inches  higher than the beds.
  If the ground is  shallow, and the under stratum
not fit for the growth of trees, the whole should be
removed,  and  the  beds made  good with a better
soil.
  The advantage arising from planting trees in this
way is, lhat the beds being lower than the walks,
the water which is poured on, for support  of the
trees, is prevented from running oft".  The plants
are also less exposed to the influence ofthe wimU,
and if a dry and hot season should immediately
follow after they are planted, hoops, covered  with
mats,  straw, or canvas, may be placed over  them,
to prevent the sun  from burning the plants,  and to
hinder a too speedy evaporation of moisture.
  In Avarm climates, canvas cloth  will answer best
for these shades, to be fixed during the  heat ofthe
day, so as to prevent the surface ofthe mould from
becoming dry, and if a  little water  be sprinkled
upon the canvas, once or tAvice during  the day, it
will keep  it tight, and produce a moist atmosphere
underneath, which  will  greatly  facilitate   the
growth ofthe plants.
  These shades should be removed at the setting
ofthe sun, and the plants then  watered, when  they
will also receive the benefit ofthe dews during the
night  In the morning the shades should be re-
placed, and the plants thus protected till  they can
stand  the open air, to which they should gradually
be enured by removing the shades daily more and
more, till  they can be wholly taken away.
   Potatoes.—Fourteen ways of dressing them.
  General Instructions.—The vegetable kingdom
affords no food more wholesome,  more  easily  pre-
pared, or less expensive than  the  potatoe; yet
although  this  most useful vegetable  is dressed
almost every day, in almost every family—for one
plate of potatoes that comes  to table as it should,
ten are spoiled.
  Be careful in your choice of potatoes;  no vege-
table varies so much in colour, size, shape, consist-
ence, and flavour.
  Choose  those of  a large  size, free from  blem-
ishes, and fresh, and buy them in the mould;  they
must  not  be wette*d till  they are cleaned to be
cooked.  Protect them from "the  air and frost, by
laying them in heaps in a cellar, covering them
with mats, or burying them in sand or in  earth.
The action of  frost is  most destructive; if it be
considerable, the life of the vegetable is  destroyed,
and the potatoe speedily rots.
  1. Potatoes  boiled.—Wash  them, but do  not
pare or cut them unless they are very large; fill a
saucepan half  full of potatoes of equal  size, (or
make them so by dividing the  larger ones) put to
them as much cold water as will cover them about
an inch: they are sooner boiled, and more savoury
than when drowned in water; most  boiled things
are spoiled by having too little water, but potatoes
are often spoiled by too  much; they must merely
be covered, and a little allowed for waste in boil-
ing, so that they may be just covered at the finish.
  Set them on a moderate fire till they boil, then
take them off, and  set them by the side of the fire
to simmer slowly till they are  Soft enough to ad-
mit a fork—(place no dependence  on  the usual test
of their skin cracking, which, if they  are boiled
fast, will happen to some  potatoes when  they are
not half done, and  the inside is quite hard)—then
pour the Avater off, (if you let the potatoes remain
in the water a moment after they are done enough,
they will  become waxy and  watery), uncover the
saucepan,  and set it at such a distance from the fire
as will secure  it from burning; their superfluous
moisture will evaporate, and  the  potatoes will be
perfectly dry and mealy.
  You may afterwards place a napkin, folded up to
the size of the saucepan's diameter, over the pota-
toes, to keep them hot and mealy till wanted. 
MISCELLANEOUS.
411
   fhis method of  managing potatoes is in every
respect  equal to  steaming them;  and  they  are
dressed  in half the time.
  There is  such  an infinite variety of sorts and
sizes of potatoes, lhat it is impossible to say how
long they will take doing; the best way is to try
them wilh a fork.  Moderate sized  potatoes will
generally be enough  in  15 or 20 minutes.
  2. Cold potatoes fried.—Put a bit of clean drip-
ping into a frying-pan; when it is melted, slice in
your potatoes with a little pepper  and salt, put
them on the  fire,  keep stirring thein; when  they
are quite hot, they are ready.
  3. Potatoes boiled and broiled.—Dress your po-
tatoes as before directed, and  put them on a grid-
iron over a very clear and brisk fire; turn them till
they are broAvn  all over, and send them up dry,
with melted butter in a cup.
  4. Potatoes fried  in  slices  or shavings.—Peel
large  potatoes, slice them about  a  quarter  of an
inch thick,  or cut them  in  shavings  round and
round as you would peel a lemon; dry them well in
a clean  cloth, and fry  them in lard or  dripping.
Take care that your fat  and frying-pan are quite
clean; put it on a quick  fire, watch it, and as  soon
as the hrd boils, and is still,  put in the slices of
potatoes, and keep moving them till they are crisp;
take them up  and  lay them to drain  on a sieve;
send them up with a  very little salt sprinkled over
them.
   5. Potatoes fried whole.—When  nearly boiled
enough, as directed in No. 1, put them into a stew-
pan with a bit of butter, or  some nice clean beef
drippings;  shake  them about often  (for fear  of
burning them)  till they are brown and crisp: drain
them from the fat.
   It will  be  an improvement to the  three  last
receipts, previously to  frying or  broiling the  po-
tatoes, to flour them and dip them in the yolk of an
egg; and then roll them in  the fine sifted  bread
crumbs.
   6. Potatoes mashed.—When your potatoes are
thoroughly boiled,  drain dry, pick out every speck,
he. and while hot, rub tnem through a cullender
into a clean stewpan: 10 a pound of potatoes put
about half an ounce of butter, and a tablespoonful
of  milk; do not make them too moist;  mix thein
well together.
   7. Potatoes mashed with onions.—Prepare some
boiled onions, by putting them through a  sieve,
and mix them  with potatoes.  In  proportioning
the onions to the potatoes, you will  be  guided  by
your wish to have  more or less of their flavour.
   8. Potatoes  escalloped.—Mash potatoes as di-
rected in No.  6, then butter some nice clean scol-
lop shells, or patty pans; put in your potatoes,
make them smooth at  the top, cross a knife over
them,  strew  a few  fine bread crumbs  on  them,
sprinkle them with a paste brush  with  a few drops
of  melted butter,  and  then set them  in a Dutch
oven; when they are broAvned on the  top,  take
them  carefully out of  the shells, and  brown the
other side.
   9. Colcannon.—Boil potatoes  and  greens,  or
spiiiage, separately; mash the potatoes, squeeze
the greens dry, chop  them  quite fine, and mix
them  with the potatoes  with a little butter, pepper
and salt; put it into a mould, greasing it well first;
let it stand in a hot oven for ten minutes.
   10.  Potatoes roasted.—Wash and dry your po-
tatoes (all of a size), and put them in  a Hn Dutch
oven  or cheese toaster; take care not to put them
too near the fire, or they will get burnt on the out-
side before thev are  warmed through.
   Large potatoes  will  require two hours to roast
them.                                 tt ir i. -i
   11. Potatoes  roasted under meat.—Halt  boil
i large potatoes, drain the water from them, and put
 them into an earthen dish, or small tin pan, under
 meat that is roasting, and baste them with  some
 of the dripping; when  they are  broAvned  on one
j side, turn them and brown the other; send  them
; up round the meat, or in a small dish.
   12. Potatoe balls.—Mix  mashed potatoes with
 the yolk of an  egg, roll them into balls, flour them,
 or egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them iu
 clean drippings, or brown them in a Dutch oven.
   13. Potatoe snow.—The potatoes must be free
 from spots, and the whitest you can pick out; put
 them on in cold water; when they begin to crack,
 strain the water from them, and put them into a
 clean stewpan  by the side of  the fire till they are
 quite dry and  fall  to pieces; rub them through a
 Avire sieve on  the dish they are to be sent up in,
 and do not disturb them afterwards.
   14. Potatoepie.—Peel and slice your potatoes
 very thin, into a pie  dish; between each layer of
 potatoes put a  little chopped onion (three quarters
 of an ounce of onion is sufficient for a pound ot
l potatoes), between each layer sprinkle a little pep-
| per and salt, put in a little water, and cut  about
 two  ounces of  fresh butter into litlle bits, and lay
 them on the top, cover it close with puff paste.  It
 will take about an  hour and a half to bake it.  The
 yolks  of four  eggs (boiled hard)  may be added;
 and  Avhen baked, a table spoonful  of good mush-
 room catchup  poured in through a funnel.
 For allaying a troublesome cough and  spitting of
                      blood.
   Let  a peck of the  best  malt be ground and put
 into an earthen pan; pour 6 quarts of boiling water
 over it, stir it  well and cover it up close.  Let it
 stand 28 hours; after which strain it through a clean
 coarse cloth; then put it into a preserving pan over
 a gentle fire, stirring it and skimming it all the
 Avhile.  Let it boil  till  it comes  to a syrup that
 ropes, and is as thick as treacle.  Put it into gal-
 ley pots, and when cold cover it up close.  A tea-
 spoonful of  this may be taken in a  morning, fast-
 ing, and at night going to bed; and at other times
 Avhen the cough is troublesome.
            General remedy for worms.
   The  essential oil  of petroleum, (naphtha,) has
 been employed for upwards of fifty years, in Italy,
 as a remedy for every species of worms lodged in
 the intestinal canal.   The oil of turpentine, in its
 chemical  properties, is similar to naphtha.  Pe-
 troleum is become so abundant in  Great  Britain,
 in consequence of  the general adoption ofthe gas-
 lights in the metropolis, (the production of" it from
 the decomposition of coal being very considerable,)
 that the oil  of it,  obtained by distillation, is em-
 ployed to adulterate oil of turpentine.  As a reme-
 dy for worms  it is unquestionably more effectual
 than the latter.
             Remedy for gout, &c.
   The following powder, taken three or four times
 a week, at  bed-time, will effectually destroy the
 predisposition to gout in the constitution.  It will
 also remove heartburn,  and oiher symptoms of
 indigestion.   Take of dried  soda, poAvdered, \ oz.
 rhubarb, 11  drachms, powder of cinnamon  bark,
 1 ditto, powder of ginger, 1 do. nutmeg, grated, 1
 do.  colitmbo root, 2 do.   Mix wtill together, and
 divide into 36  doses, one to be taken every  night
 in a glass of water.
     New discovery in the preparation of flax.
I   A French paper states that an inhabitant of Cha-
 teau Thierry has discovered a mode of giving to
 prepared hemp and flax the fineness, softness, and
 whiteness of cotton,  by impregnating  these sub-
 stances with oil, and then exposing them, during
 fifteen or twenty days, to the action of frost, be-
 tween  two layers of snow.   By this means all the 
412
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
inconvenience of the ordinary and  tedious pro-
cess of steeping them in  stagnant water will be
avoided.
       Preservation of plants from slugs.
  A gardener recommends for preserving cabbages
and cauliflowers from slugs, the spreading well cut
chaff round the outside of the glasses.  The slugs,
in their  attempts to reach the plants, find them-
selves  enveloped in the chaff', which prevents their
moving, so that in  the morning, hundreds of dis-
abled slugs may be found round the outside of the
glasses, and be destroyed.
             To improve dried figs.
  These  fruits, when they are brought to table,
are commonly covered with a scurf, composed of
a mealy,  sugary substance, very disagreeable to the
teeth.  A correspondent says that the Avay to get
rid of the scurf, and render the figs as plump and
clear skinned as when  they are  newly gathered
from the tree, is, first to keep them in a cool and
rather moist cellar for  twenty-four hours  before
using;  and, secondly, just  before presenting them
at table, to put them into a  receiver, and exhaust
the air.  After remaining there two minutes, they
should be taken out, and gently brushed, when they
will be found perfectly plump and clear-skinned.
                 Grease spots.
  The following method of removing grease and
oil spots  from silk and other articles, without in-
jury to  the  colours, is  given in the Journal des
Connaissances Usuelles:—Take the yolk of an egg
and put a little of it on the spot, then place over
it a piece of white  linen, and wet it with boiling
water; rub the linen with the hand and repeat the
process three or four times, at each time applying
fresh boiling water: the linen is to be then remov-
ed, and the part thus treated is to be washed with
clean cold water.
              For botts in horses.
  Take of  beesAvax, mutton tallow, and loaf sugar,
each eight ounces,  put it into one quart of new
milk,  and warm it until all  is melted.   Then
put  it into  a bottle, and  give it just before the
wax, &c. begins to harden.  About two hours af-
ter give physic.  The effect is  that the  botts
are discharged in  large numbers, each piece of
wax havingfrom one to  six or eight of them stick-
ing to  it, some by the head, but most by their legs
or hooks.
          Durable polish for furniture.
  Take your table to the cabinet maker, and make
him plane off the wax or varnish, then take  some
very fine sifted brick-dust, mix a little sweet oil
wilh it, just enough to make it stick together like
flour; rub this mixture on the wood with a pumice
stone,  until it is perfectly smooth; then add some
spirit of  wine or strong  old whiskey, and continue
rubbing until you have the required polish, which
will be more beautiful and far more durable than
varnish.   Water may be thrown upon it without
injury, and when by age the polish becomes dim,
you can in five minutes restore its beauty  by rub-
bin" it wilh  a  cloth dipped  in boiled oil, or by
using the brick-dust as at first.
              Gum arabic cements.
   Gum arabic, dissolved in as small a quantity of
water  as may be, and diluted to  a proper consis-
tence with gin, or any proof spirits, forms  a very-
useful cement for all purposeywhere gum-water is
commonly used, the spirit preserving it from be-
coming putrescent. As  the spirit evaporates, more
sn.uld be added.  It should be stirred and mixed
together at the time of using.  If plaster of Paris
be added to gum-water, it makes a cement useful
to ladies in filligree works.
   Gum-ammoniac added to the solution of gum-
arabic in proof spirits  very much improves the
 cement  It answers very well for joining broken
 glass and ornamental articles of porcelain.
            Glue of the Laplanders.
   The bows of the Laplanders are composed of
 tivo pieces of wood,  glued together; one of them
 of birch, which is flexible, and the other of fir of
 the marshes, which is stiff, in  order that the bow
 when  bent may not  break, and that when unbent
i it may not bend.  When these two pieces of avooiI
 are bent, all  the points of contact endeavour to
 disunite themselves, and to prevent  this, the Lap-
 landers employ the following cement:—They take
 the skins of the largest perches, (it  is probable
 eel-skins Avould answer the same purpose,) and,
 having dried  them, moisten them  in  cold water,
 until they are so  soft that they may be freed from
 the scales,  which they  throw  away.  They then
 put four or five of these skins in a rein-deer's blad-
 der, or they wrap them  up in  the soft bark of the
 birch-tree,  in such  a manner that  Avater cannot
 touch  them, and place them, thus covered,  in  a
 pot of boiling  water,  with a  stone above them tc
 keep them at the bottom.  When they have boiled
 about an hour, they take them from the bladder, or
 bark, and they are then found to be soft and vis.
 cous.   In this state they employ them for glueing
 together the two pieces of their bows, which they
 strongly compress and tie up until the glue is well
 dried.  These pieces never afterwards separate.
 Cement that will stand the action of boiling water
                  and steam.
   Take two ounces of sal-ammoniac, one ounce
 of flowers of sulphur, and 16 ounces of cast-iron
 filings or borings.  Mix all well  together by rub-
 bing them in a mortar, and keep the powder dry.
   When the cement is wanted for use,  take  one
 part of the above powder, and twenty parts of clean
 iron borings or filings, and blend them intimately
 by grinding them in a mortar.   Wet the compound
 with water, and, when brought to a convenient con-
 sistence, apply it to the joints with a wooden, or
 blunt iron, spatula.
        Another cement of the same kind.
   Take two parts of  flowers of sulphur  and  one
 part of sal-ammoniac, and mix them together, with
 a little water, into a stiff paste.
   Take also  borings  or turnings of cast-iron, in
 the state in which they are commonly  found  in
 works  where boring and  turning are carried on,
 viz. mixed  with sand, and sift them finely to get
 rid of the grosser particles.
   When the cement is wanted for use, dissolve a
 portion of  the  above paste in urine, or  in water
 rendered slightly acidulous, and to the solution add
 a quantity  of the  sifted  borings.  This mixture,
 spread upon or between  flanches of  iron pipes, or
 put into the interstices of other parts of iron work,
 will, in a little time,  become as hard as a stone.
 A method for taking an impression from a copper-
   plate on plaster of Paris, with ink, as in Common
   prints.
   Let the plate be filled Avith ink (made of the best
 ivory black, mixed with drying linseed  oil,  and
 ground very fine on a painter's stone) and the sur-
 face cleaned with the hand and whiting, as in com-
 mon copper-plate printing. Provide yourself with
1 a board about half an inch thick, just  the size of
 your plate; round the edge of this, wrap some stiff
 paper, raised half an inch  above the surface or. one
 side, and level on the other, in the form of a trough:
 into this put your plate, with the prepared  side
 upwards; then mix your Paris plaster with water,
 to a proper consistency, and pour it  on the plate;
 then lifting up the trough, let  it fall flat upon the
 table again, to drive  the bubbles of air from the
 plate through the surface of the plaster; after you
 have  repeated this about  12  times, let it stand an 
MISCELLANEOUS.
413
how.   Afterwards take the plate out of the trough,
and the plaster, now hardeied, from the plate, and
you will have a very neat impression on the plas-
ter, fit to put in a frame, and by far preferable to
the best prints.
              To destroy crickets.
  Put  Scotch  snuff upon  the  holes  where they
come out.
       To prevent the creaking of a door.
  Rub a bit of soap on the  hinges.
              A simple barometer.
  Take a confmon  phial, and cut off  the rim and
part of the neck.  This may be done by a piece of
whip-cord, twisted round it, and pulled to and fro
quickly, in a sawing position, by two persons; one
of whom holds the phial firmly in his left hand.
Heated in a few minutes  by the  friction  of the
string, and then dipped suddenly into cold  water,
the bottle will be decapitated more easily than by
any other means.   Let the phial  be now  nearly
filled with common pump-water, and, applying the
finger  to its mouth, turn it quickly upside  down:
on removing the finger it will be found that ( aly a
 few drops will escape.  Without cork, or stopper
 of any kind, the water will  be retained within the
 bottle  by the pressure of the external  air: the
 weight of air without the phial being  greater than
 that ofthe small quantity of water within it. Now
 let a bit of tape be tied round the middle  of the
 phial,  to which the two ends ofa string may be at-
 tached, so as to  form a loop to hang on a nail: let
 it be  thus suspended, in a  perpendicular manner,
 with the mouth downwards; and this  is  the baro-
 meter.—When the  weather is clear, and inclined
 to be so, the water will be level with the section of
 the neck, or rather elevated above it, and forming
 a concave  surface.  When disposed  to be wet, a
 drop  will appear at the mouth, which will enlarge
 till it  falls, and  then another drop, while the hu-
 midity of the atmosphere continues.
       To remove grease spots  from paper.
   Scrape finely some  pipe clay; the quantity will
 De easily determined on making the experiment;
 on this lay the sheet or leaf, and cover the spot in
 like manner with the clay.  Cover the whole with
 a sheet of paper, and apply, for a  few seconds, a
 heated ironing  box, or any substitute adopted by
 laundresses.  On using  Indian  rubber, to  remove
 the dust taken up by the grease, the paper will be
 found restored to its  original whiteness and opa-
 city.                          .
    Tooth-ach and anti-rheumatic embrocation.
   Sal volatile,  three  parts; laudanum,  one part.
 Mix,  and rub the part in pain therewith frequent-
 ly.  If the tooth  which  aches  is  hollow,  drop
 some  of this on a bit of cotton, and put it into the
 tooth; if the pain does not abate within  an hour,
 take   out the cotton,  and put  another  piece  in,
 changing it every  hour four or fiv^ tiroes, till the
 pain  ceases.
   In a general  face-ach, or sore throat,  moisten a
 piece of flannel  with it and put it to the  part ai-
 I'ected; rub any part  afflicted with rheumatism
 night and morning, and in the middle of the day.
FIFTY-EIGHT  ORIGINAL  RECEIPTS  IN
       COOKERY AND PASTRY, he.

             1. Shrewsbury cake.
  Sift  1  lb. of sugar, some pounded cinnamon,
and a nutmeg grated, into 3 lbs. of flour. Add a lit-
tle rose water to 3 eggs well beaten, mix them with
 he flour,  then  pour in as much butter melted as
will make it a good thickness to roll  out
  2 Another.-T*keZ\hs. of Hour, 1 b.  of sugar
finely  pounded; mix  them together; (take out a
quarter of a pound to roll them in;) £ lb. of but-
ter, 4 eggs,  4 spoonsful of cream, and 2 of rose
water.  Beat them well together, and mix them
Avith the flour into a paste; roll  them into thin
cakes and bake them in a quick oven.
                3. Macaroons.
  Blanch 4 oz. of almonds, and pound them with
4 spoonsful of orange flower water; beat the whites
of 4 eggs to a froth, mix it with a pound of sugar,
sift the almonds into a paste, aud lay it in different
cakes on paper to bake.
  4. Another.—Take 1 lb. of almonds, blanch them
and throw them into cold Avater, then rub them dry
with a cloth, and pound them in a mortar;  moisten
them  with orange flower or rose water, lest they
turn to oil; then take 1 lb. of fine loaf sugar, whisk
the whites of 4 eggs; beat  all  well  together, and
shape  them  round Avith a spoon,  on paper previ-
ously outtered and sugared, to prevent their burn-
ing; bake them in a gentle oven on tin plates.
               5. Savoy biscuit.
  Take of sugar the weight of 12 eggs, of flour the
weight of 7 eggs; beat the yellows and whites of 12
eggs separate; grate in the  rind of 1  lemon; after
being in the oven a few minutes, grate on some su-
gar.  You may add peach water or lemon  juice.
                  C.  Jumbles.
  Take 1$ lbs. of flour,  1  lb.  of  sugar,  | lb.  of
butter, 4 yolks and 2 whites of eggs,  with a wine-
glass  of rose water, roll them thick Avith fine pow-
dered sugar, and bake on tins.
               7. Almond cake.
  Take 1 lb. of almonds blanched and beaten, ten
eggs  well  beaten, 1 lb.  of sugar,  and  J lb.  of
flour.
                8. French rolls.
  Take a spoonful  of lard or butter, 3 pints of
flour, a cup of yeast, and  as  much  milk as will
work  it up  to the stiffness of bread; just before
you take them  from the  oven,  take  a clean  towel
and wipe them over with milk.
                  9. Waffles.
   To a quart of milk add 5 eggs,  1^ lbs.  of  flour,
$ lb. of butter; beat them Avell  together;  when
baked, sift  sugar and cinnamon on them.   If you
make the waffles before it  is time to bake them,
add a spoonful of yeast.
          10. Poundcake gingerbread.
   Take 6 eggs, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 pint of molasses,
 a full tea-cup of ginger, a tea-spoonful of pearlash
 dissolved, a little mace, nutmeg, 1 lb. of fresh but-
 ter creamed;  after these  ingredients   are  well
 mixed, beat in 2 lbs. of Hour.   Fruit is an im-
 provement.
                11.  Ginger cake.
   Take 3 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of but
 ter rubbed  in very fine, 2 oz.  of ginger, a little
 nutmeg, a pint of molasses, a gill of cream; make
 them warm together, and bake them in a slack
 oven.
                12.  Gingerbread.        ,
   Take 1^ lbs. of flour, £ lb of sugar, J lb. of butter,
 well rubbed together;  1 oz. of ginger, a few cara
 way  seeds,  24 allspice, 12 cloves, a little cinnamon,
 1 pint of molasses.  Knead well.
             13. Short gingerbread.
    lake I lb. sugar, 4 lb.  butter, 5 eggs, a little
 cream and  pearlash, 1£ lb. flour, rolled hard.  To
 be baked on tin sheets, marked ready to  cut.
              14. Calves'-feel jelly.
    Take 4 calves* feet well  boiled, £ lb. of sugar, 1
 pint of wine, 2 lemons, the whites  of 4 eggs, and
 shells; boil all together about five  minutes, then
 pour through a flannel bag to strain.
               15. Apple pudding.
    Take half the whites and all the yolks of 10 eggs,
 beat them  very  light, add a  pint of apples, after
                                   2 K2 
ECEIPT BOOK.
 414                          UNIVERSAL »

 they are stewed and put through a sifter,  stir in a
 $ lb. of butter, the grated peel of 2 large  lemons,
 and juice of one,  sugar to taste.  Mace and nut-
 meg are very good substitutes for lemon juice.
            16. Baked apple pudding.
  Pare and quarter 4 large apples, boil them ten-
 der with the rind of a lemon in so little water that
 when done no water may remain, beat them quite
 fine in a mortar, add the crumb of a small roll, 4
 lb.  of  butter melted, the yolks of 5 and whites of
,3 eggs, juice of ^  a lemon, sugar to your  taste;
 beat ail well together, and bake it in a paste.
             17. Lemon blancmange.
   Pour a pint of hot water upon I oz. of isinglass,
 when it is dissolved add the juice of 3 lemons, the
 peel of one grated, six yolks of eggs  beaten, half a
 pint of Lisbon wine, sweeten it to your taste, let it
 boil, then strain it, and put it in your moulds.
         18.  Mrs Hoffman's blancmange.
  Take  2  oz. of isinglass, 1  quart of new milk,
 strain  it ar.d sweeten to your taste, aOd rose or
 peach  water, let it be only milk warm  when you
 put it in the moulds; if you  Avish it particularly
 nice, blanch $ lb. almonds, beat them very fine in
 a mortar and stir in before you boil or strain.
              19.  Orange pudding.
  Take 1 lb. of butter creamed, 1  lb. of sugar, 10
 eggs, the juice of 2 oranges;  boil  the peel,  then
 pound it fine, and mix it with  the  juice;  add the
 juice of one lemon, a wine glass of brandy, wine,
 and rose water.
             20. Homminy pudding.
  Take .the homminy and pick the beans  from it,
 warm it and mash through  a sifter until you get a
 pint, add £ lb. of butter, melted, stir a tea-cup of
 cream into it, and let it cool; then  add  half the
 Avhitesof six eggs; sugar, nutmeg, mace, and wine,
 to your taste.  Bake it.
             21. Cocoa nut pudding.
  To I large cocoa nut grated add the whites of
 8 eggs, a £ lb. of sugar, } lb. of butter. 2 spoonfuls
 of  rose water.   Bake it in a paste.
               22. Rice pudding.
  Take J lb. of rice, tied in a cloth, boiled well,
 and then put through a sieve;  add a quart  of milk,
 and keep  stirring "until it thickens; then add 6
 ounces of butter stirred into the rice, 12 yolks and
 6 whites of eggs well beaten; mace, nutmeg, wine,
 and sugar, to your taste.  This quantity will make
 2 large  puddings.   If you  choose you may add
 currants or any other fruit.
  23.  Another.—Boil  the rice very soft, dry  from
 water, stir in a  little butter, a pint of milk, and 3
 eggs wk-11 beaten, sweeten to your taste, pour it in
 cVour dish, sprinkle flour on the top,  put little bits
 »:  butter here and  there on the top.  Bake slowly.
   24. Another, highly approved.—Take 2 spoonsful
 of  raw rice, 1 quart ot new milk, a  bit of butter
 the size of an egg,  a  little  cinnamon;  sweeten to
 your taste, put the pan in a  slack oven  after the
 bread is taken out; eat Avhen cold.
   25. Another.—Put in a deep pan ^ lb. of rice wash-
 ed  and  \>icked,  2 ounces of  butter,  4  ounces of
 sugar, a few allsp'-ce pounded,  and 2 quarts of milk.
 Bake in a  slow  oven.
   26. Another.—Sweeten rice in milk, strain it off,
 and having  pared and  cored  apples, put the rice
 around them, tying each in a cloth  with a bit of
 lemon  peel,  a  clove, or cinnamon.    Boil them
 well.                .
        27.  Ground rice or sago pudding.
    Boil a large spoonful of it heaped,  in a  pint of
 new milk, with lemon peel and cinnamon; when
 cold, add sugar, nutmeg, and 2 eggs, well beaten.
            28.  Sweet potato pudding.
    Take 5  eggs,  $ a lb. of butter, a J  of a lb. of
 sugar, add as much sweet potato as will thicken it,
 the juice and grated peel of one lemon, beat it very
 light.
               29.  Potato pudding.
   Take half a pound of boiled potatoes, beat well m
 a mortar  with half a pound each  of sugar and
 butter, the yolks of 10 eggs, the whites of 4, well
 beaten,  2 Naples biscuit grated, and half a pint of
 cream;  mix them well with the other ingredients,
 and pour it on a thin paste.  Bake for half an hour.
   30. Another.—Take 8 ounces of boiled potatoes,
 2 ounces of  butter, 2 eggs, a  quarter of a pint of
 cream, 1 spoonful  of white wine, a little salt, the
 juice and  rind of a  lemon, beat the whole to a
 froth,sugar to taste,—a paste or not as you like. If
 you ivant it richer, put more  butter, sweetmeats,
 and almonds, with another egg.
               31.  Citron pudding.
   Take \ lb. of sugar, \ lb. of butter creamed.
 the yolks of 9 eggs, a wine  glass of brandy, \ lb.
 of citron chopped very fine.
               32.  Cream pudding.
   To 3  eggs beaten very  light, stir in a pint and a
 half of flour, salt to your taste, mix a little milk,
 then put in 6 ounces of sugar; just before you put
 it in the oven add  a pint of thick  cream.   Bake
 for £ of an hour.
              33.  Custard pudding.
   Take a pint of milk, 3  spoonsful of flour, 6 eggs,
 and salt-to your taste.   Sugar.
               34.  Wedding cake.
   Take 3 lbs. flour, 3 lbs.  butter, 3 lbs. sugar, 2
 doz. eggs, 3 lbs. raisins, 6 lbs. currants, 1 lb. citron,
 1 oz. mace,  1 oz.  cinnamon, 1 oz. nutmegs, ^ oz.
 cloves, $ pint brandy.  Beat the  butter with your
 hand to cream, then beat the sugar into the butter,
 add the froth of the yolks of  the eggs after being
 well beaten, then the froth  of the  whites;  mix
 fruit, spice, and flour together; then add them in
 with beating.  Five or six hours baking will an-
 swer for a large loaf.
                35. Election cake.
   Take 5 lbs. flour, 2 lbs. sugar, £ lbs. butter, 5
 eggs, yeast, 1 pint of milk, and spice  as you please.
               36.  Indian pudding.
   Boil one spoonful of fine Indian flour well, then
 add 1 pint of milk, and let it all boil; when cool,
 beat in 2 eggs.  Sweeten and season.
          3-7. Baked Indian pudding.
   Take 8 ounces  of mush, 6  ounces  of butter, 6
 ounces of sugar, the yolks of 6 egg6, and the white
 of 1; mix the butter  in  the mush when hot,  beat
 the eggs and sugar together; add to the mush, when
 cool, nutmeg, mace, and  wine to your taste; bake.
                38. Apple custard.
   Take apples, pared, cored,  and slightly stewed,
 sufficient to cover the dish, 6 eggs, 1 quart of milk;
 spice to your taste.  Bake it one-third of an hour.
                39. Black cake.
   Take If lbs. of flour, 1J lbs. of brown sugat, 1
 lb. of butter, 1$ lbs. of raisins, 1^ lbs. of currants,
 £ lb. of lard, 4 eggs,  1 pint  of milk, 1  nutmeg,
 and mace, 1 tea-spoonful of pearl-ash.  Wine and
 brandy.
              40.   Tomatas catsup.
   Cut up the tomatas, and between every layer
I sprinkle a layer of salt, let thein stand a few hours
 before you  boil them, which do very well, then
 strain them  through  a cullender on some horse
 radish, onions  or  garlick,  mustard seed, beaten
 ginger,  pepper and mace; cover it  close,  let  it
 stand a day or two,  then bottle and seal it for
 use.
                41.  Puff paste.
   Take 1$ lb. of flour, and 1 lb. of butter;  divide
 the butler  into 4  equal parts;  mix ^th part of the
 butter with |ths ofthe flour; and work the remaiu-
| der of the flour and butter in. 
MISCELLANEOUS.                                 416
              42. Sponge cake.
  Take 14 eggs, with their weight in  sugar, and
half their weight in flour, the juice and peel of a le-
mon, and  one nutmeg; beat the yolks  and whites
separately until stiff, add  the sugar  to the yolks,
then 9A& the whites.   One minute before the oven
is ready, dredge in the flour.  Bake in a quick
oven half an hour.
              43. Lemon cake.
  Take 12 eggs, 1$ lb. sugar,  £  lb. flour;  grate
the outside of two lemons, with the inside of one;
or add  1 glass of wine, with 3 teaspoonsful of the
essence of lemon.
               44. Sugar cake.
  Take 1 lb. flour, £ lb. sugar, £  lb.  butter, 5
eggs.   Mix and drop them on tin, and put sugar
sanded on them, just as you put them wito the oven,
or frost them.
               45.  Cup  cake.
  Take 3 cups of sngar,  I  cup  of butter, 2 tea-
spoonsful of pearlash, 3 eggs, 5 cups of flour;  all
beaten together with as much spice as you please.
               46. Cider cake.
  Take 2 lbs. flour, 1 lb. sugar, £ lb. butter, 1 pint
cider, cloves  and cinnamon, with or without fruit,
2 teaspoonsful of pearlash.
                  47.  Whips.
  Take 2 cups of cream,  1 of white wine,  grate
in the skin of a lemon, sweeten to your taste, the
whites of 3 eggs; then  whip it with a whisk, take
off the froth, as it rises pour the froth into your
jelly glasses.
         48. To make venison pasty.
  You must bone your venison and season it with
2 oz. of pepper, 1  nutmeg, mixed with salt; then
mince 3 lbs. of beef suet;  put it in the pan: it will
take 6 hours baking.
             49.  To dress a turtle.
  Take a turtle of 8 lbs.  cut off its head, cut it
open, scald the fins and calipee or under shell, skin
them; then take out the  guts, cut them open and
cleanse them  well; take great care not to break the
gall.  Then take  for the soup  the  guts and the
fins, with  a knuckle of veal; some  sweet herbs,
onions, and cayenne pepper.   Season the rest of
the meat with the same  seasoning, which put in
the calipash  or upper shell,  and calipee,  with
some force meat balls, and bake it.  When it is
naked, take the yolks of three eggs, to  a  turtle of
eight  pounds, beat  them well,  pour  in a  little
wine, take some of the soup, and brew  it  together
very well, throw  in a lump of butter rolled in
flour,  and put it into the calipash and calipee.
      50. To make waffies the Dutch way.
  Take a quart of new milk, a penny  loaf grated
very fine, 10  eggs beaten with £ lb. of  sweet  but-
ter melted, a few  clove's beaten, a little  salt, fine
flour enough to make a baiter like a pancake, and
4 spoonsful of yeast.  Mix them together, and put
them in an earthen pot covered, before the fire, to
rise  for  an hour; having  your wafer  iron ready
heated and buttered on both sides, put in the batter
to bake; when  done serve them hot,  with  sugar
grated over them and cinnamon.
   51.  A good gravy, to  be kept for any use.  ■
  Burn 1 oz. of butter in  the flying  pan, but take
care to do it at such a distance from the  fire, that
as you  strew in  the flour to the butter, it may
brown  but not blacken; put to it 2 lbs.  coarse lean
beet,  1 quart water, £ pint wine red or white, 3
anchovies, 2  eschalots, some whole pepper, cloves
and mace, 3 or 4  mushrooms or as many pickled
walnuts; let it  stew gently 1 hour, then strain it;
it will keep some time, and is proper  for any sa-
voury dish.
      52. Federal cake, or bachelor's loaf.
  In a plateful of flour put a piece of butter not
 larger than a walnut, 2 eggs, I spoonful yeast; mix
 it either with milk or water, as you please, make
 it into  a  very stiff batter, so  stiff you can scarce
 stir it  with a spoon.  Put it to rise in the  same
 dish you wish to bake it in.   It will take several
 hours to rise.
                53.  Albany cake.
   Take 1J lbs. of flour. 1  lb. of sugar, $ lb. of
 butter, a table-spoonful of lard, 2 table-spoonsful
 of rose water, a little cinnamon,  1 egg, a tea-spoon-
 ful  of pot-ash dissolved  in  a  tea-cup of cream.
 Cut them out and bake them on tins.
     54. Black cake that will keep for a year.
   Take 1 lb. of sugar, the same of butter and flour,
 10 eggs; beat them well together, and when light
 add tAvo  wine glasses of brandy, nutmeg, mace,
 and cloves, 2 lbs. of raisins, and the same quantity
 of currants.   It wUl take some hours to bake.  A
 good deal of spice is necessary.
   55.  To dress calf's head in imitation  of turtle.
   Take* the calf's  head when well soaked  and
 washed, open it and boil it with the entrails  until
' it is quite done; take part of  the liver out when
 about half done for forced meat balls.  When it is
 all done strain the liquor, then cut off small pieces
 of the head  in imitation of  turtle; the small indif-
 ferent remainder chop up with the entrails; put in
 spice to your taste, a little  savoury herbs rubbed
 very fine, and a few little onions; some very small
 dumplings;  season the force meat balls with  spice
 and herbs to your taste, put a little parsley in them,
 and fry them  in lard, and  put them in your soup
 when you  send it to table.
                56. Mock  turtle.
   Take a fine calf's head, cut the meat clean  from
 the bones, then boil the bones in a quart of water
 until the liquor is reduced to a pint, then season
 it Avith cayenne, nutmeg, and mace; pour into the
 gravy a pint of Madeira  wine, a little parsley,
 thyme.
                57. Beef alamode.
j   Choose a thick piece of  flank of beef; cut  some
| fat bacon in  long slices,  let each  slice  be near an
] inch thick,  dip them in vinegar; then take  sea-
I soning of salt and pepper and cloves mixed  with
j parsley, thyme, and mai jot-am:  make holes in  the
■ meat to put  in the larding;  when you  have put it
 in rub it over  with  the  seasoning and  bind it up
 with tape and set it in a pot over the fire; three or
 four onions must  be  fried brown and put to the
j beef, vvith two or three carrots and a head of celery.
, Add a small quantity of water, and let it simmer
I 10  or  12  hours, or until it is  extremely tender,
i turning the meat twice; put the graiy  into a pan,
 remove from  it the fat; keep the beef covered;
 then put them together, add a  glass of Avine,  re-
j move the tape and send it to table.
|                 58. Oyster pie.
   Take 100 oysters and clean them well from the
 shell, then  put them  in a  kettle with their own
 li-quor  to  plump  them, then  put them in a  dish,
j and season them with 12 cloves and 3  blades of
 mace  pounded  fine,  pepper  to your  taste;  then
. lay  crust round the edge of your dish,  take  the
1 yolks of 4 eggs  boiled hard, with a  handful of
j grated bread, sprinkle this over the top  with a few
! pieces of butter; fill the dish nearly full; cover the
j pie over with a puff paste.
    On the honing and stropping of a razor.
  Let the hone be seldom, and but sparingly re-
sorted  to; and  never, unless  by frequent and re-
peated  stropping, the edge of  the razor is entirely
destroyed use the best pale oil, and be careful to
preserve the hone clean, and free from dust.  Pre-. 
416
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
 viously to the operation of shaving, it will be found
 of service, particularly to those who have a strong
 ioeard, and a  tender  skin, to wash the face  well
 ■with soap and water; and  the more  time is spent
 In lathering, and moistening the beard, the easier
 will the process of s'uaving become.  Dip the razor
 in hot water, before applying-il to the face; use the
 blade nearly flat,  always taking care  to give it a
 cutting, instead of a  scraping  direction.   Strop
 the razor immediately after using it, for the  pur-
 pose of effectually removing any moisture that  may
 remain upon  the  edge; and be careful  not to  em-
 ploy a common strop, as  the composition with
 which they are .covered is invariably of a very in
 ferior quality, and injurious to a razor.  The strop
 should always be  of the best  manufacture,  and
 when  the composition is worn off, it will be found
 .particularly  useful to rub it over, lightly, ivith a
 little  clean tallow, and then  put upon it the top
 part of the snuff of a candle, which, being a  fine
 powder, will admirably supply the place of the  best
 composition eo^er used for the purpose.   Another
 excellent  mode of renovating a razor-strop, is by
 rubbing it well with pewter, and  impregnating the
 leather wilh the finest metallic particles.
               Pumpkin pudding.
   Take half a  pound  of stewed pumpkin,  three
 eggs,  a quarter of a pound of fresh  butter, or  a
 pint of cream,  a quarter of a pound of  powdered
 white  sugar, half a glass of wine and brandy mixed,
 half a glass of rose-water, a tea-spoonful of mixed
 spice,  nutmeg,  mace  and cinnamon.  Stew some
 pumpkin with as little water as possible.  Drain
 it in a cullender, and press it till dry.  When cold,
 weigh  half a pound, and pass it through  a sieve.
 Prepare the spice.  Stir together the sugar,  and
 butter  or cream, till they are perfectly light.  Add
 to them,  gradually, the spice and liquor.  Beat
 three eggs very light, and stir- them into  the butter
 and sugar alternately witli the pumpkiu.   Cover  a
 soup-plate wilh puft'-paste, and put in the mixture.
 Bake it in a moderate  oven about half an hour.
 Grate sugar over it, when cool.
   Instead of the butter, you may boil a pint of milk
or cream, and when cold,  stir  into it  in turn  the
 sugar,  eggs, and pumpkin.
        A cure for sore backs of horses.
   The best method of curing sore backs, is to dis-
solve half an ounce of blue vitriol in a pint of wa-
ter, and dab tlie injured parts with it  four or five
times a day.
An infallible lotion for blows, bndses and sprains
                   in hoses..
   Take of  spirit of wine, eight ounces; dissolve
one ounce of camphor first, in  the spirits of wine,
then add one ounce of oil of turpentine, one ounce
of spirit of sal ammoniac, oil of origanum half an
ounce,  and one large table spoonful of liquid lau-
danum.  It mast be ivell rubbed in with  the hand,
for full a quarter of an hour, every time it is used;
Avhich  must be four times each  day.  You will be
astonished at its efficacy when you try it.
                Chicken salad.
   Take two large  cold fowls,  either  boiled  or
roasted, the yolks of nine hard-boiled  eggs, half a
pint of sweet oil, half a pint of vinegar, a gill of
mixed  mustard, a small tea-spoonful of cayenne
pepper, a small tea-spoonful  of  salt, two large
heads,  or four small ones, of fine celery.   Cut  the
meat of the fowls from the  bones, in pieces  not
exceeding an inch in size.   Cut the white part of
the celery into pieces  about an inch long.   Mix
the chicken and celery well together.   Cover them
and set them away.   With  the back of  a wooden
spoon, mash the yolks of eggs  till they are a per-
fectly smooth paste.  Mix them with the oil,  vine-
 gar, mustard, cayenne, and salt.  Stir them for a
 long  time,  till  they are  thoroughly mixed  and
 quite smooth.   The  longer they are stirred  the
 better.   When this dressing is sufficiently mixed,
 cover it, and set  it away.   Five minutes  before the
 salad is  to  be eaten pour the  dressing  over  the
 chicken and celery, and mix all well together.   If
 the dressing is put on long before it is wanted, the
 salad Avill be tough and  hard.   This salad is very
 excellent made of cold turkey instead of chicken.
 How to know whether a horse has a strong ana
  good eye, or a weak eye and likely to go blind.
   People in  general turn a horse's head to a bright
 light  to  examine his eyes.  You  can know veiy
 little, by this method,  what sort of  an eye the
 horse has, unless it be a very defective one. You
 must examine the eye first, when the horse stands
 with his head to the  manger.   Look  carefully at
 the pupil of  the  eye in a horse; it is of  an oblong
 form: carry the size  of  the  pupil  in your mind,
 then turn the horse about, bring him to  a  bright
 light, and if, in the bright light, the pupil  of the
 eye contracts, and appears much  smaller than  it
 was in the darker light, then you may  be sure the
 horse has a  strong,  good eye; but, provided the
 pupil remains nearly ofthe same size as it appeared
 in the  darker light, the horse has a weak eye;
 therefore have nothing to do with him.   There are
 contracting and dilating muscles in the eye, which
 will plainly  show you in what  state the eye is,
 whether it be a strong or a weak one.
           How to catch wood-pigeons.
  Wood-pigeons are very easily caught  in hard
 weather, particularl)' when snow is on the ground.
 You have but to  sweep the snow on  one  side, for
 about  a  dozen yards long, and about  three feet
 broad.  Lay  about twenty small eel-hooks, fasten-
 ed by a peg into the ground, with a small  bean on
 each: be sure  you put tne point of the hook only,
 through the top ofthe bean, and the barb standing
quite out, on  the side; otherivise, if the  hook be
totally buried in the bean, when the bird struggles,
he will pull the hook out of his throat.
  I think, as  good a way as any, is to  punch two
or three  holes  in horse-beans, with an iron bod-
kin, and  then  boil them in  some common  gin:
 many Avill be so  drunk  that they cannot fly up;
others will perch on  the  adjacent  trees; watch
them, and you will see them tumble down.
            How to catch wild-fowl.
  If yow have a large pond, or lake, frequented by
wild-fowl; in the shalloiv  water, about one  foot
deep, where you observe them feed, lay a  few rab-
bit-traps,  with a  fe,w beans on the bridge of the
trap, under the water.  This is a sure method of
catching them.  Where the water is about two feet
deep, put a stick in, about one foot above the wa-
ter; cut a slit  at the top of  the slick; tie  a strong
piece of packthread  round a brick-bat,  or to  a
large  stone;  let the string,  after having tied  it
round  the stone,  be  about  a foot  longer; to the
other end fasten  a small eel-hook, baited with a
piece of bullock's  lights,  sheep's paunch, or a
horse-bean; then, about three or four inches from
the brick-bat, fasten a  stick, nearly as big as your
little finger, and about four inches long, tying the
string, with a single knot, exactly to the centre of
the stick;  then place that part ofthe string, which
is between the brick-bat  and the short  stick, into
the notch  at  the  top  of the  long slick, which  is
stuck into the  bottom of the pond.  The  short
stick will  prevent the weight of the brick-bat from
drawing  the  string through  the  notch,  and the
hook  will hang a few inches  from the  water, and
the brick-bat  hang fast by the notch iu the top of
the stick.   When the water-fowl  takes the baited 
MISCELLANEOUS.
417
hook, he pulls the stick and  brick-bat down, and
the brick-bat pulls him under water  and drowns
him.
   Of the best breed of dogs for shooting game.
  "The breed of dogs which 1 prefer, beyond all
others, are those which are bred between a setter
and  a pointer; but not bred from those  setters
which have no natural point in them; for I have no
idea of shooting to a dog Avhich does  not  stop at
birds the very first day he is  taken into the field.
I have not had a setter, whieh was broke by force,
for above twenty years; nor ever will have one.
Leave them at  home only one week; for the next
two days you  must turn to dog-breaking, and not
to shooting.   I prefer those between a pointer and
a setter, which take after the setter; for, generally
speaking, they haA'e better feet, whieh is a great
point in a dog: for certain, they have more hair on
their feet, which is a great preservative  to the
foot, if it be kept clean.  I never kept a cocking
spaniel in my life: I always shoot to pointers, even
in the strongest  covers, with bells  round their
necks.  I know, for certain, you will  not  find so
mueh game; but then what you find, you are sure
to shoot at.  Here is the great benefit  of shooting
to pointers: you may shoot every day, in a wood,
and  not drive the game away.  But if you turn
cocking spaniels into a  wood, which  quest, when
they come on the foot  ofa pheasant, in a very few
days you  will  drive every pheasant  out  of the
wood.  A Newfoundland dog, tutored  to keep be-
hind you in the fields,  and not to go above a dozen
or twenty yards from you in a wood, is of wonder-
ful utility,  in  retrieving  and bringing wounded
game.   I have had several that were uncommonly-
useful."
               Sportsman's beef.
  Take a fine round of beef, t"jur ounces of salt-
petre, three-quarters of an ounce of allspice; rub
it well on the beef, and let it stand twenty-four
hours; then  rub in as much  common  salt as will
salt it  Lay  it by twelve days, turning it every
day; then put it into a pan, such as large pies are
baked in, with three or  four pounds of beef-suet,
some under, some over.  Cover it with a thick
erust, and bake it for six hours.   It will keep for
two months; and most excellent it is.
         Infallible cure for the scurvy.
  Take two parts of flower of brimstone, and one
part of cream  of tartar; mix them well together:
take four large tea-spoonsful, in milk, every morn-
ing, the first thing you do, when you get up, be-
fore your breakfast: milk is  only the vehicle to
take it in; you may take it in any thing else.
To be taken by any one suspected of going into a
                   decline.
  Half a pint of milk,  warm  from the coav, made
lusciously sweet with  old conserve of roses, and
two table-spoonsful of the very best rum. Take it
the first thing in the morning.
  Remember that old persons, who wish  to try
this, must first boil the milk, and let it get  tolera-
bly cool; for all milk, when  it has once got cold,
if not boiled will purge.
     An efficacious gargle for a sore throat.
  Take a large handful of red sage, (not the com-
mon garden sage,) boil it in one quart of the best
white-wine vinegar, to near  a pint, then sweeten
it well with honey.  You may, if you  please, add
two small wine-glasses of port wine.
       To make a sick horse drink freely.
  A horse has a very sweet tooth,—when he be
unwell and  wont drink, mix molasses or coarse
brown sugar in the water: he will then drink freely.
            J'o prevent boots leaking.
  Take boiled linseed oil, one pint; beeswax, one
junce; burgundy pitch,  half an ounce; spirit of
      3 C
 turpentine, two ounces: melt the three first in an
 earthen-pot, and then add the turpentine.  Lay it
 on when the leather is dry, and warmed before th«
 fire.   This ointment must be  well rubbed in be-
 fore the fire, and when the leather is tolerably dry.
 How to know the age ofa dog until fie be six years
                      old.
   A dog has a very visible mark  in  his teeth, as
 well as a  horse, whicli  mark does not disappear
 totally until he be  very near, or full, six years old.
 Look to the four front teeth, both in the upper and
 lower jaw, but particularly to the teeth in the up-
 per jaw;  for,  in those  four front teeth, the mark
 remains longest: at twelve mouths old, you  will
 observe every one  of the four front teeth, both in
 the upper and  under jaAV,  jagged and uneven,
 nearly in  the  form of a flower de luce, but not
 quite so pointed, at the edges of the jags, as a
 flower de  luce  is.  As the dog advances in age,
 these marks will  wear  away, gradually decrease,
 and grow smoother and less jagged  eveiy year.
 Between three and four years old, these marks will
 be full half worn down; and when you observe all
 the four front teeth, both in the upper and loAver
jaw, quite worn  smooth  and even,  and not in the
 least jagged, then  you may conclude that the dog
 is nearly,  if not full six years old. When those
 marks are worn quite flat and even, and those teeth
 quite level and even, you can no longer judge the
 age of a dog.  Many  huntsmen and game keep-
 ers ignorantly look at the side and eye teeth of a
 dog;  there are  many dogs, not  two  years old,
 which  have had the  canker in the  mouth, with
 hardly one sound tc-th in their heads.
 Easy method of preserving  meat  in the country,
   for a few days,  without salt and without ice.
  Put  the meat into the water running from a
 spring.  It will sink—examine it daily—when it
 begins to rise from the bottom it must be used; it
 will be found perfectly sound and tender, and may
 be boiled  or roasted.   Meat may be preserved  in
 this manner three or four  days  in  sixnmer time,
 free from taint   The outside will appear somewhat
 whitened,  but the flavour is not injured.  It would
 be advisable to have a box or tub, with a  cover,
 into and out of which  the  water shall have free
 passage, which  may be put either inside or outside
 of the spring-house.
 A method of extracting the juice of the sugar ma-
  ple,  for  the making of sugar, without  injuring
  the tree.
  It has been customary to cut a gash in the tree,
 from which the saccharine liquor flows, or to bore
 a hole, and put  in  a  reed, and, when  the  liquor
 ceases to flow,  plugging  up the  hole.   Both these
 methods are injurious, and tend to destroy the tree.
 In the latter case, the  tree rots round the plug to
 some distance within.   The following  method  is
 proposed in lieu of these,  and has been  success-
 fully practised in Kentucky.  At the proper sea-
 son for the running of the liquor, open the ground,
 and select a tender root, about tlie  size of one or
 two fingers; cut off the end, and  raise the root
 sufficiently out of the  ground to turn the cut end
 into the receiver.  It will emit the liquor from the
 wound as freely as  by either of the  other methods.
 When  it ceases to  flow, bury the root again, and
 the tree will not be hurt.
            To  restore tainted beef.
  "In the last fall, I procured an acquaintance of
 mine in the country to put up a  barrel of fat beef
 for my family's use during the  winter.  The bar-
 rel of beef was sent to me agreeable to contract;
 but before 1 had used one quarter part of it, I  ob-
 served it tainted, and so much so as to smell quite
 offensive.   The beef being very fat  and fine, 1 was
loath to throw it aAvay.   1 made the following ex- 
418
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
periment: I  procured a half bushel of charcoal,
and after taking out the beef and throwing away
the offensive pickle, I re-packed it in the barrel,
laying the pieces of charcoal between the pieces;
and making a new pickle, and adding a little salt-
petre, 1 covered the beef,  and in about six days
found it as sweet and good as it was when first put
up."
  To  clear houses, barns, &c. of rats and mice.
  Gather the plant dog's tongue, the cynoglossum
officinale of Linn»us, which grows abundantly in
every field; at the  period when  the sap is in its full
vigour, bruise it with  a hammer, or otherwise, and
lay it in the house, barn, or granary, infested by
rats or mice, and  those troublesome animals will
immediately shift  their quarters.
             To preserve peach trees.
  The following  mode  of securing peach  trees
from  injury, and  promoting their bearing  fruit
plentifully, has been practised with uninterrupted j
success for many years.
  As soon  as the  blossoms appear in the spring,
fine ashes are scattered over them and the young
leaves, by means  of  a  tin  box,  perforated  with
holes, and  fixed on the end of  a pole.   The pro-
cess is ea&.iy performed, and is in the power of
any one.   It should  be done, if  possible,  in  a
moist day, and when the wind ic still.
An effectual preventive against flies settling upon,
               or biting animals.
  Boil 1  oz. of coloquintida half an hour in 3 pints
of water, dip a  sponge in  the liquid, and nib the
animal over the parts  liable to be attacked.
Ready mode  oj mending crac'rs in stoves, pipes,
    and iron ovens, as practised in  Germany.
  When a crack is discovered  in a stove, through
which the  fire or  smoke penetrates, the aperture
may  be completely closed in  a moment  with a
composition consisting of wood  ashes and common
salt,  made up into paste with  a little water, and
plastered' over  the crack.  The  good effect  is
equally certain, whether ihe stove, &c.  be cold or
hot
            Bmised oats for horses.
  An individual  who has tried feeding  horses on
whole and on bruised oats,  states, that a horse fed
on bruised oats will  look  and work as well as
one fed on double  the same quantity of oats not
Bruised.
               Preparing quills.
  M.  Scholz, of Vienna,  has  discovered a  new
process for rendering quills more firm and durable
than  those of Hamburg.   The following are the
means employed:—He suspends, in a copper, a
certain number of  quills, and fills it with water,
so as just to touch their nibs. He then closes the
copper, so  as to render it  steam tight; here the
quills experience considerable heat and moisture
from  the steam, by which  the  fat they contain is
melted out.   After about four hours' treatment in
this  manner, they attain the proper degree of
softness and  transparency.   The next day cut the
nibs,  and draw out the pith, then rub them with a
piece  of cloth, and also expose them to a moderate
heat.   The following day they will  have acquired
the hardness of bone without being brittle, and
will be as transparent  as glass.
New  mode of preparing paper, for the  use of
              draughtsmen, &c.
  Reduce to a powder, and dissolve quickly in a
glazed earthen vessel,  containing cold water,  some
gum tragacanth,  having  been well worked with a
wooden spatula, to free it  from lumps.  There
must  be  a  sufficient quantity of water, to give to I
■..his diluted gum the consistence of a jelly.   Pa-
per, and some sorts of stuffs, upon  which, if this [
 composition be smoothly applied, with a pencil
 or a brush, and dried before a gentle fire, will re-
 ceive  either water  or oil colours; in using water
 colours, they must be mixed with a solution of the
 above gum.  This cloth or paper,  so prepared,
 will take any colour except ink.   When it is in-
 tended to retouch any particular part of the draw-
 ing, it should be washed with  a sponge, or  clean
 linen, or a pencil, (containing  some  of the above-
 mentioned liquid;)  if the  part  is only  small, it
 will then rise  quickly, and appear  as if repaint-
 ed.
     A composition to render wood fire-proof.
   Dr Fuchs, member of the Academy of Science
 at Munich, is said to  have discovered a composi-
 tion, by which  he renders wood incombustible; the
 composition is made of  granulated earth, and an
 alkali.  To obtain this  composition, the inventor
 says, you must dissolve some moist, gravelly earth,
 which  has  been previously  well   washed,  and
 cleared from any heterogeneous matter, in a solu-
 tion of caustic alkali.  This mixture has the pro-
 perty of not becoming decomposed by fire or water.
 When spread upon wood, it forms a vitreous coat,
 and is proof against the two elements.   The build-
. ing committee  of the  royal theatre, have twice
 publicly tried  the efficacy of the composition on
 two small buildings, of six or eight feet in length,
 and of a proportionate height; the one was covered
 with the composition,  and  the  other built in the
 usual  manner.  The fire was  put equally in the
 two buildings;  the one which was no', covered with
 the composition, was consumed, whilst the other
 remained  perfect, and  entire.   The cost of this
 process is very insignificant, compared to its great
 utility, being about two francs three centimes per
 100 square feet.
   The  royal thea're at Munich  has undergone this
 process, having about 400,000 square feet; the ex-
 pense of which  Avas about 4000 or 5000 francs.
 Luting used in propagating fruit  trees, by graft-
                    ing them.
   The best luting whereAvithal  lo cover the newly
 grafted scions,  is composed  of equal quantities of
 train oil and rosin, prepared in the following man-
 ner:—First, melt the rosin in  an earthen vessel,
 then pour in the oil, and mix them well; to be ap-
 plied  when cold, with  a painter's  brush.   The
 composition  is  used in the north-west  part  of
 France with general success.  It has this advan-
 tage, that it never cracks, nor admits rain or wind
 to'the  grafts, which is the usual cause of their fail-
 ing.  It is more  expeditiously put  on, than  the
 common clay covering,   and  looks much neater;
 but what renders it more useful, is, that the grafts
 covered with the composition, seldom fail. Scions
 laid under earth, or steeped  in  water, for a ftiv
 days, grow better than those taken fresh from the
 parent tree.  Grafting cherry or pear trees should
 not be delayed later than St Patrick's day.
           A cure for poisoned sheep.
   It is a fact well known to farmers, that sheep are
 frequently poisoned by  eating  common  laurel,
 (calmia latifolia.) When you  suspect this to be
 the case, give the sick animal a strong tea made
 of mountain dittany, (cunila mariana,) moderately
 warm.  This simple remedy has been known to
recover sheep in the last stages of the disorder.
   It would be well for farmers whose cattle are in
danger of being poisoned, to procure  and dry a
quantity of dittany in the summer, and keep it by
them through the winter, as it is in the  latter sea-
son they  are most likely to be affected.  It may
also be useful in other disorders incident to cattle
—so much for the cure—as  a prevention, destroy
all the laurel on your farms. 
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK,
419
                        APPENDIX.

INSTRUCTIONS  IN THE ART OF CARVING.

                              —Q(Q©—
  Persons, unaccustomed to serving at table, will,
with the help of these cuts,  and the instructions
accompanying them, soon be able to carve well: if,
at the  same  time, they will, as occasion offers,
take notice, how a  good carver proceeds,  when  a
joint or fowl  is before him.
  We will  begin with those joints, &c, that are
simple and  easy to be carved, and afterwards pro-
teed to such as are more complicate and difficult.
Leg of mutton.
  This cut represents a leg or jigot of boiled mut-
ton; it should be  served up in  the  dish as it lies,
lying upon its back; but Avhen  roasted, the under
side* as here represented by the letter d, should lie
uppermost in the dish, as in a ham (which see);
and in this case, as it will be necessary occasionally
to turn it, so as to  get readily at the under side,
and cut  it in the direction of  a, b, the  shank,
which is here broken and bent  for the convenience
of putting it into a  less pot or vessel to  boil it, is
not broken or bent in a roasted joint, of course,
should be wound round (after it is taken off the
spit),  with half a sheet  of writing paper, and so
sent up to table, that a person carrying it may take
hold of it, without  greasing his  hands.   Accord-
ingly, when he wishes to cut it on  the under side,
it being too heavy a joint to be easily turned with
a fork, the carver is to take hold  ofthe shank with
his left hand, and he will thus be  able to turn it
readily, so as to cut it where he pleases Avith  his
right
  A leg of wether mutton, which is by far the best
flavoured, may be readily knoAvn when bought, by
the kernel, or little round lump of fat, just above
the letters a, e.                     ,    _-
  When  a leg of mutton is first  cut, the person
carving should turn the joint  towards him, as it
here lies, the shank to the left  hand;  then holding
it steady  with his fork, he should cut in  deep  on
the fleshy part,  in the hollow of the. thigh, quite to
the bone, in the direction a, b.  Thus will he cut
right through the kernel of  fat, called the  pope's
eye,  which many are fond of.  The most juicy
parts of the leg, are in the thick part of it, from
the line a, b, upwards, towards e, but many prefer
the drier part, which  is about the  shank  or
knuckles; this part is  by far the coarser, but, as I
said, some prefer it, and call  it the venison part,
though it is less like  venison than  any other part
of the joint.   The fat of this joint lies chiefly on
the ridge e, e, and is to be cut  in the direction e,f.
  In a leg of mutton, there is but one bone readily
to be got at, and that a small one; this is the cramp
bone, by some called the gentleman's bone, and is
to be cut out, by taking hold of the shank-bone with
the left  hand, and, with a knife, cutting down to the
thigh-bone at the point  d, then passing the  knife
under the cramp-bone, in the direction  d, c, it
may easily be cut out.
A shoulder of mutton.—No. 1.
   Figure  1  represents  a  shoulder of mutton,
 which is sometimes salted and boiled by fanciful
 people;  but  customarily served  up  roasted, and
 laid in a dish, with the back or upper side upper
 most, as here represented.
   When not Over-roasted it is a joint very full of
 gravy, much more so than a  leg, and, as such,  by
 many preferred, and particularly as having many
 very good, delicate, and  savoury parts in it.
   The shank-bone  should be wound round  with
 writing  paper, as pointed out in  the leg, that the
 person carving may take hold of it, lo turn it as he
 wishes.  Now,  when it is first cut, it should be in
 the hollow part  of it, in the direction a, b, and the
 knife should be passed  deep to the bone.  The
 gravy then runs  fast into the dish, and the part cut
 opens wide enougn  to take  many slices from it
 readily.
   The best fat, that which is full of kernels and
 best flavoured, lies on the outer edge, and is to be
 cut out in thin slices in the direction e, f.   If many
 are at table, and Ihe hollow part, cut iii  the line
 a, b, is all  eaten, some very  good  and  delicate
 slices may be cut out on each side of the ridge  of
 the blade-bone,  in the direction  c, d.  The line
 between these  two dotted lines is that in the di-
 rection of which the edge or ridge of the blade-
] bone lies,  and cannot be cut across, 
420
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
A shoulder of mutton.—No. 2.
   On the under side of the shoulder, as represent-
ed in  figure 2, there  are two parts, very full of
gravy, and such as many persons prefer to those of
the upper side.  One is a  deep cut, in the direc-
tion g, h, accompanied with  fat, and the other all
lean, in a line from  i to k.  The parts about the
shank are coarse and dry, as about the  knuckle in
the leg; but yet some prefer this dry part, as being
less rich or luscious, and of course less  apt to cloy.
   A shoulder of mutton over-roasted is spoiled.

                A leg of pork,
   Whether boiled or roasted, is sent up to table as
a leg of mutton roasted, and  cut  up in the same
manner; of course I shall refer you  to what I have
said on  that joint,  only that  the close firm flesh
about the knuckle is by many reckoned the best,
which is not the case in a leg of mutton.

              A shoulder of pork
  Is never cut or sent to table as such,but the shank-
bone, with some little meat annexed, is  often serv-
ed up boiled, and called a spring, and is very good
eating.
Edge bone of beef.
  In carving it, as the outside suffers in its flavour
from  the  water in Avhich  it is boiled, the  dish
should be turned towards the carver, as it is here
represented;  and a thick slice should be first cut
off, the whole length of the joint, beginning at a,
and cutting it all the  Avay even and through  the
whole surface, from a to b.
  The soft fat, that resembles marroAV, lies on the
back,  beloAV  the  letter d, and the firm fat is to be
cut in thin horizontal slices at  the point c; but as
some persons prefer the soft fat and others the firm,
each should be asked what he likes.
  The upper part, as here shown, is certainly the
handsomest, fullest of gravy, most tender, and is
encircled with fat; but there we still some,  who
prefer a slice on  the  under side, which  is quite
lean.   But as it is a heavy joint and very trouble-
some to turn, that person cannot haA'e much  good
manners who requests  it.
  The skewer that keeps the meat together when
boiling, is here shown at a.   It should  be drawn
nut, before the dish is served up to tible; or, if it
be necessary to  leave a  skewer in, that skewwr
should be a silver one.

              A knuckle of veal.
  A knuckle of veal is  always boiled, ani  is ad-
mired for the fat, sinewy tendons about the knuc-
kle, Avhich, if boiled tender, are much esteemed.
A lean knuckle is not worth the dressing.
  You cannot cut a handsome slice, but in the di-
rection a, b.  The most delicate fat lies about the
part d, and if cut in the line d,  c, you will divide
two bones, between which lies plenty of fine mar-
rowy fat.
  The several bones  about the knuckle  may be
readily separated at the joints, and, as they are co-
vered with tendons, a bone may be given to those
who like it.
A breast of veal, roasted.
   This is the best end of abreast of veal, with the
 sweet-bread lying on it, and, when  carved, should
 be first cut down quite through, in the first line on
 the left, d, c; it should next be cut across, in the
 line a,  c; from c to the  last a, on the  left, quite
 through divides the gristles from  the  rib-bones;
 this done, to those who like fat and gristle, the
 thick or gristly part should be cut into pieces as
 wanted, in the lines a, b.  When a breast of veal
 is cut into  pieces  and stewed, these gristles are
 very tender and eatable.  To such persons as pre-
 fer a bone, a rib should be cut  or separated  from
 the rest, in the line  d, c, and with a part of the
 breast,  a slice of the SAveet-bread, e, cut across the
J middle. 
APPENDIX.
■121
A saddle of mutton.
  This is by some called a chine of mutton, the
saddle being the Iavo necks, but  as the two ntck3
are now seldom sent to table together, they call the
two loins a saddle.
  A saddle  of mutton is a genteel and handsome
dish; it  consists  of  the two  loins together,  the
back-bone  running down the middle to the tail.
Of course,  when it is to be carved, you must cut a
long slice in either of the fleshy parts, on the side
of the back-bone, in  the direction a, b.
  The.e is seldom any great length ofthe tail left
on, but if it is sent up with the tail, many are fond
of it, and it may readily be divided into several
pieces, by cutting between the joints of the tail,
which are about the distance of one inch apart.

             A spare-rib of pork.
  A spare-rib of pork  is carved, by cutting ont a
slice from the fleshy part,  in the line a, o.  This
joint will afford many good cuts in this direction,
with as much fat  as people like to eat  of such
strong  meat.  When the fleshy part is cut away, a
bone may be easily separated from the next to it,
in the line d, h, c,  disjointing it at c.

           Half a calf's head boiled.
  There are many delicate bits about a calf's head,
and when young,  perfectly white, fat, and  well
dressed, half a head is a genteel dish, if a small

  When first cut, it  should be quite along the
cheek  bone,  in the fleshy part, in the direction c,
b where many handsome slices may be cut.  In
the fleshy part, at the end of the jaw bone,  lies
part of the throat  sweet-bread, which  may be cut
into, in the  line c, d, ard vhich is esteemed the
best part in the head.  Many like  the eye, which
is to be cut from its socket a, by forcing the point
of a carving knife down to the bottom on one edge
of the socket, and cutting quite round, keeping the
point of the knife slanting towards the middle, so
as to separate the meat from the bone. This piece
is seldom divided, but if you wish to oblige two
persons with it, it may be cut into two parts. The
palate is also reckoned by some a delicate morsel:
this is found on the under side of the roof of the
mouth; it is a crinkled, white thick skin, and may
be easily separated from the bone by the knife, by
lifting the head up with your left hand.
  There  is also some good meat to be met with on
the under side, covering  the under jaw, and some
nice, gristly fat to be pared off about the ear, g.
  There  are scarce any bones here to be separated:
but one may be cut off, at the neck, in the lineal
e, but this is a coarse part.
  There  is a tooth in the upper jaw, the last tooth
behind, which, having several cells, and being full
of jelly, is called the sweet tooth.  Its delicacy is
more in the name than in any thing else.   It is a
double tooth, lies firm in its socket, at the further
end, but if tlie calf was a young one, may  readily
be taken  out with the point of a knife.

                    A. ham
  A ham Is cut two ways, across in the line b, c,
or, with the point of the carving-knife, in the cir-
cular line in the middle, tnking out a small  piece
as at a, and cutting thin slices in a circular direc-
tion,  thus  enlarging it by degrees.    This last
method of cutting it, is to preserve the  gravy and
keep it moist, which is thus prevented  from run-
ning out

              A haunch of venison.
  In carving a haunch of venison, first cut it across
down to the bone, in the line d, c, a, then turn the
                                    2 L 
422                            UNIVERSAL

dish with the end a towards you, put in the point
of the knife at c, and cut it down  as deep  as you
can in the direction c, b;  thus cut, you may take
out as many slices  as you please,  on  the right or
left  As the fat lies deeper on the left, between b,
and a, to those who are fond of fat, as most veni-
son eaters are, the best flavoured and fattest slices
will be found on the left ofthe line c, b, supposing
the end a turned towards you.  Slices of venison
should not be cut thick, nor too thin, and plenty of
gravy should be given with them.
An ox tongue.
  A tongue is to be cut across, in the line a, b, and
a slice taken  from thence.  The most tender and
juicy slices will be about the middle,  or between
the line a, b, and the root.   Towards ;'ie tip, the
meat is closer and dryer.  For the fat, and a ker-
nel with that fat,  cut off a slice of the  root on the
right of the letter b, at the  bottom next the dish.
A tongue  is generally eaten with white meat, veal,
chicken, or turkey; and to  those Avhom you serve
with the latter, you should give of the former.

               A brisket of beef.
  This is a part alivays boiled, and is to be cut in
the direction a, b, quite down to the bone,- but
never help any  one to the  outside slice,  which
should be taken off pretty thick. The fat cut with
this slice is a firm gristly fat, but a softer fat will
be found underneath, for those who  prefer it

              A buttock of beef
  Is always boiled,  and requires no print to point
out hoAV it should be carved.   A thick slice should
be cut off all round the buttock, that your friends
may be helped to the juicy  and  prime part of it.
This cut into, thin slices may be cut from the top;
but as it is a dish that is frequently brought to the
table cold a  second day, il  should always be  cut
handsome and even.  To those to who.n a slice all
round would be too much,  a third  of the round
may be given,- with a thin  slice of fat.  On one
side there is a part whiter than ordinary, by some
called, the Avhite muscle.  A buttock is generally
divided, and this white part  sold separate as a deli-
cacy, but it is by  no means so, the meat being
close and dry, Avhereas the darker coloured parts,
though apparently of a coarser grain, are of a looser
texture, more tenifor, fuller of gravy, and better
ECEIPT BOOK.

flavoured; and men ol distinguisl ed palates evei
prefer them.
A piece of a sirloin of beef.
  Whether the whole sirloin,  or part  of it only,
be  sent  to  table, is  immaterial,  with  respect to
carving it.  The figure here represents part of the
joint only, the whole  being  too  large for families
in general.  It is drawn as standing up in the dish,
in order  to  show the inside or under  part; but
when sent to table, it is always laid down, so as
that the part described  by the letter c, lies close
on the dish.  The part c, d, then lies uppermost,
and the line a, b, underneath.
  The meat on the upper side of the ribs is firmer,
and of a closer texture, than the  fleshy part  under-
neath,  which is by far the most tender;  of course,
some prefer one part,  and some another.
  To  those avIio like the upper side, and rather
would  not have the first cut or outside slice, that
outside slice should be first cut  off, quite down to
the bone, in the direction  c, d.  Plenty of soft,
marrowy  fat will be found underneath the ribs.  If
a person  wishes  to have a slice underneath,  the
joint must be turned up, by taking hold  of the end
of the ribs with the left hand, and raising it, until
it is in the position as here represented.  One slice
or more  may now be cut in the direction  of the
line a, b, passing the knife down  to the bone. The
slices,  whether on the upper or under side, should
be cut  thin, but not too much so.
A fore-quarter of lamb, roasted.
  Before any one is helped to a part of this joint,
the shoulder  shoufo be separated from the breast,
or what is by some called the coast, by passing the
knife under, in the direction c, g, d, e.  The shoul-
der being thus removed,  a lemon or orange should
be  squeezed  upon the part, and then sprinkled
with salt where the shoulder joined it,  and the
06661120 
APPENDIX.
423
shoulder should be laid  on it again.  The gristly
part should next be separated from the ribs, in the
line /, d.   It  is noAV in readiness to be divided
among the company.  The ribs are generally most
esteemed, and one or two may be separated from
the rest, in the line a, b; or,  to those who prefer
the gristly part, a piece or two, or more, may be
cut oft' in  the lines h, i, he.  Though all parts of
young lamb are nice, the shoulder of a fore-quar-
ter is the least thought of; it is not so rich.
  If the fore-quarter is that of a grass lamb  and
large, the shoulder should be put  into another dish
when taken off; and it is carved  as a shoulder of
mutton, which see.

                A fillet of veal,
  Which  is the thigh part, similar to a buttock of
beef, is brought to table always in the same form,
but roasted.  The outside slice of the fillet is by
many thought a delicacy,  as being most savoury;
but it does not follow, that every one likes it; each
person should  therefore  be  asked, what part they
prefer.  If net the outside, cut off a thin slice, and
the second cut will be white meat, but cut  it even
and close,  to the bone. A fillet of veal is generally
stuffed under the skirt or flap  with a savoury pud-
ding, caned forced-meat  This  is to be cut deep
into, in a line with the surface of the fillet, and a
thin slice taken out; this, with a little fat cut from
the skirt,  should be given to each person present.

                 A roasted pig.
  A roasted pig is seldom sent to table whole, the
head is cut off by the cook, and the body slit down
the back and served up  as  here represented;  and
the dish garnished with the chaps and ears.
  Before any one is helped,  the shoulder should
be separated from the carcass, by passing the knife
under it, in the circular direction: and the leg sepa-
rated in the same manner,  in the dotted lines c, d,
e.   The most delcate part in the whole pig, is the
triangular piece of the neck, which may be cut off
in the line /, g.   The next best parts are the ribs,
which may be divided in the line a, b, he.  Indeed,
the bones  of a pig  of  three weeks old are little
less than gristle,  and may be easily cut through;
next to  these, are pieces  cut from the  leg  and
shoulder.  Some are fond of an ear,  and others of
a chap, and those persons may readily be gratified.

                   A Rabbit.
  This is a rabbit, as trussed and sent up to table.
After separating the legs, the shoulders or wings
(which many prefer), are to be cut  off in  the cir-
cular dotted line, etf,g.  The back is divided into
two or three parts, in the lines t, k, without di»
viding it from the  belly, but cutting it in the line
g, h.   The head  may be given to any person who
likes it, the ears being removed before the rabbit
is served up.

                   A Goose,
  Like a turkey, is seldom quite dissected, unless
the company is large; but when it is, the following
is the method   Turn the neck towards you, and
cut tAvo  or three  long slices, on  each  side the
breast, in the lines a, b,  quite  to the bone.  Cut
these  slices irom the bone, which done, proceed to
lake off the leg, by turning the goose up on one
side, putting the fork through the small end ofthe
leg-bone, pressing  it close  to  the body,  which,
when  the knife is entered at d, raises the joint from
the body.  The knife is then to be passed under
the leg  in the direction d, e.  If the  leg hangs to
the carcass  at  the joint e,  turn  il back with the
fork, and it will readily separate if the goose is
young; in old geese, it will require  some strength
to separate  it.  When the leg is off, proceed  to
take off the wing, by passing the fork through the
small end of the pinion, pressing it  close to the
body, and entering  the  knife at the notch e, and
passing it under the Aving, in  the  direction c, d.
It is a nice thing to hit this notch r, as it is not so
visible in the bird as in the figure.  If the knife is
put into the notch above it, you cut  upon the neck
bone, and not on the wing joint.  A little practice
will soon leach the  difference; and  if  the goose is
young the  trouble  is not great, but very much
otherivise if the bird is an old one.
   When the leg and wing on  one  side are taken
off, take them off  on the  other side; cut off the
apron in the line f, e, g,  a.id then take  oft" the
merry-thought in the line  *', h.  The neck-bones
are next to be separated as in a fowl, and all other
parts divided as there directed, to which 1 reier you.
   The best parts of a goose are in  the following
order: the  breast  slices; the  fleshy  part  of the
wing, which may be divided from the pinion; the
thigh-bone, which  may be  easily divided  in  the.
joint from the leg-bone, or drumstick, as it is cal-
led; the  pinion, and next the side-bones.

                A green goose
   Is cut up in the same way, but the most delicate
part is the  breast and the gristle, at the lower part
of it
                  A pheasant.
 
ECEIPT  BOOK.
424                           UNIVERSAL B

  The pheasant, as here represented, is. skewered
and trussed for the spit, with the head tucked un-
der one of the wings; but when sent  to table, the
skewers are withdrawn.
  In oarving this bird, the fork should be fixed in
the breast, in two dots there  marked.  You have
then the command of the fowl, and can turn it as
you please; slice down the breast in the lines a, b,
and theii proceed to take off the le^, on the outside,
in the direction d,  e, or in the circular dotted line,
b, d, as see in the figu?e " a boiled fowl," next
column.  Then cut oft'the wing on the same side in
the line c, d, in the figure above, and o, h,  b, in the
figure at the bottom ot this column, which is lying on
one side, wilh its back towards us. Having separated
the leg and wing on one side, do the same on the
other, and then cut off, or separate from the breast-
bone on each side of the breast, the parts you be-
fore sliced or cut doivn.   In taking off the wing,
be attentive to cut it  in the  notch a, as seen in
the print of the fowl; for if you cut too near the
neck as at g,you will find the  neck-bone interfere.
The wing is to be separated from the  neck-bone.
Next cut off the merry-thought in the line/, g, by
passing the kiwfe under it towards the neck.  The
remaining parts are to be cut up, as is described in
tlie foAvl, which see.
A partridge.
  The partridge, like the pheasant, is here trussed
for the spit; when served up, the skewers are with-
drawn.  It is cut up like a fowl (which see), the
wings taken off in the lines  a, b, and the merry-
thought in the line c, d.  Ofa partridge the prime
parts  are the white  ones, viz.  the wings, breast,
merry-thought The wing is thought the best, the
tip being reckoned the most delicate morsel of the
wnole.

                   A fowl.
  The foivl is here represented as lying on its side,
with one of the legs, a wing, and a neck-bone taken
off.  It is  cut up the same way, whether it  be
roasted or boiled.  A roasted fowl is sent to table,
trussed  like a pheasant, (Avhich see,) except that
instead of the head being tucked under one of the .
wings, it is, in a fowl, cut off before it is dressed.
A boiled fowl is represented below, the leg-bones
of which are bent inwards and tucked in within the
bellv; but the  skewers are withdrawn,  prior to its
being sent to the table.  In order to cut up a fowl,
it is best to take it on your plate.
  Having shown  how to take off the legs, wings,
and merry-thought,  when speaking of the phea-
sant; il remains only to sIioav how the other parts
are divided; k, is  the wing  cut  off,  i, the  leg.
When  the leg, wing, and  merry-thought  are re-
moved, the nexl thing is to cut oft' the neck-bones
described at  /.  This is done by putting in the
knife at g, and passing it under the long broad part
of the  bone in the line.g', h,  then  lifting it up and
breaking off the end of the shorter  part of the
bone which cleaves to the breast-bone.  All parts
being thus separated  from the carcass, divide the
breast from the back, by cutting  through the ten-
der-ribs on each side, from the neok  quite down
to the vent or tail.  Then lay the back upwards on
your plate, fix your fork under the rump, and lay-
ing the edge of your knife in the line b, e, c, and
pressing it down, lift up the tail or lower part of
the back, and  it will  readily divide  with the help
of your knife, in the line b,  e, c.  This done, lay
the croup or  lower  part of the  back upwards in
your plate, Avith the rump from you, and with your
knife cut off the side-bones, by forcing the  knife
through the rump-bone, in the lines e,f,  and the
whole fowl is completely carved.
A boiled fowl.
  Of a fowl, the prime parts are the wings, breast,
and merry-thought, and next to these the  neck-
bones and side-bones; the legs are raiher coarse
of a boiled fowl the legs are rattier more tender,
but of a chicken every part is juicy and good, and
next to the breast, the legs are certainly the fullest
of gravy and the sweetest; and, as the thigh-bones
are very tender and easily broken with the teeth,
the gristles and marrow render them a delicacy.
Of the leg of a fowl the thigh is abundantly the
best, and when given to any one of your company
it should be separated from the drum-stick at the
joint  i, (see the cut, viz. " a fowl," preceding co-
lumn) which is easily done, if the knife is  intro-
duced underneath, in the  hollow, and the thigh-
bone turned back from the leg-bone.

                  A turkey,
  Roasted or boiled, is trussed and  sent up to ta-
ble like a fowl, and cut up in every respect like a
pheasant.  The best parts are the Avhite ones, the
breast, wings and neck-bones.  Merry-thought it
has none; the neck is taken away, and the  hollow
part  under the  breast  stuffed  with forced-meat,
which is  to be cut in  thin slices in  the direction
from the rump to the  neck, and a slice given  with
each piece  of turkey.   It is customary not to cut
up more  than  the breast of this bird, and, if any
more  is wanted, to take oft' one of the wings. 
APPENDIX.
425
       A pigeon.
No. 1.            No. 2.
  This is a  representation of the bacic and breast
of a pigeon.   No. 1, the back; No. 2, the breast.
It is sometimes cut up as a chicken, but as the
croup or lower part  with the thigh is most pre-
ferred, and as a pigeon is a small bird, and  half a
one not too much  to serve at  once, it is seldom
carved now, otherAvise than by fixing the fork at
the  point a, entering the knife just before it, and
dividing the pigeon into two, cutting away in the
lines a, 6, an^ a, c, No. 1;  at the same time bring-
ing the knife out at the back in the direction a, b,
and a, c, No. 2.

                A cod's head.
  Fish, in general, requires very little carving; the
middle or thickest partof the fish is generally es-
teemed the  best, except in a carp,  the most deli-
cate part of  which is the palate.  This is seldom,
however, taken out, but  the whole head is given
to those who like it  The thin part about the tail
of a fish is generally least esteemed.
  A cod's head and"shoulders, if large, and in sea-
son, is a very genteel and handsome dish, if nicely
ooiled.  When cut, it should be done Avith a spoon
or fish trowel; the  parts about the  back-bone, on
the  shoulders, are the most firm and best; take off
a piece quite down  to the bone, in the direction a,
b, d, c, putting in the spoon at a, c, and  with each
slice of fish  give a piece  of the sound, which lies
underneath the back-bone and lines it, the meat of
which is thin and a little darker coloured than the
body  of the  fish itself; this may be got by passing
a knife or spoon underneath, in the direction d, s.
  1 nere are a great many delicate parts about the
head, some  firm  kernels, and a great deal of the
 felly kind.   The jelly  parts  lie about the jaw-
bone, the firm parts within the head, which must
       3  D
be broken into with a spoon.  Some like the pal-
ate and some the tongue, which likewise may be
got by putting the  spoon into the mouth, in the
direction of the line e, s.  The green jelly of the
eye is never given to any one.
A piece of boiled salmon.
  Of boiled salmon there is one part more fat and
rich than the other.  The belly part  is the fattest
of the  two, and  it is  customary to  give to those
that like both, a  thin slice of each; foi  the one,
cut it out of the belly part, in the direction d, c;
the other, out of the back, in the line a, b. Those
who are fond of salmon generally like the skin; of
course, the slices are to be cut thfo, skin and all.
  There are but few directions necessary for cut-
ting up and serving fish.  In turbot, the fish-knife
or trowel is to be entered in the centre or middle
over the back-bone, and a piece  of the flesh, as
much as wi|l lie on the trowel, to be taken off on
one side close to the bones.  The thickest part of
the fish is always most  esteemed, but not too near
the head or tail; and when the  meat on one side
ofthe fish is removed close to the bones, the whole
back-bone is to be raised with the knife and  fork,
and the  under side is thentobe divided among the
company.   Turbot eaters esteem  the fins a deli-
cate part.
  The rock fish and sheepshead are carved like
the turbot.  The latter is considered the most deli-
cate fish of the Atlantic coast;  and the former,
though common, are highly esteemed, particularly
those caught in fresh water.
  The hall i but is  also frequently brought to mar-
ket.  The fins and parts lying near them are of a
delicate texture and flavour; the remaining part of
the fish  is coarse.
  Soals are generally sent to table two ways, some
fried, others boiled;  these are  to be  cut  right
through the middle, bone  and all, and a piece of
the fish, perhaps a third or fourth part, according
to its size, given to each.   The same may be done
with other fishes, cutting them across, as may be
seen in the cut of the mackerel, beloAv, d, e, c, b.

                  A mackerel.
  A mackerel is to be thus cut.   Slit the fish  all
along the back with a knife, in the line a, e, b, and
take off one whole side as far as the line b, c, not
too near the head, as the  meat  about the gills is
                                  2X2 
426
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
generally black and ill-flavoured.  The roe of a
male fish is soft like the brain of a calf; the roe of
the female fish  is  full of small eggs and hard.
Some prefer one  and some another, and part of
such roe as your  friend likes should  be given to
him.
  The meat about the tail of all fish is generally
thin and less esteemed, and few like the head  ofa
fish, except it be that of a carp, the palate of which
is esteemed the greatest delicacy ofthe whole.
  Eels are cut into  pieces  through the bone,  and
the thickest part is reckoned the prime piece.
  There is some art in dressing a lobster, but as
this is seldom  sent  up to table whole, I will only
say that the tail is reckoned the prime part, and
next to this the claws.
THE CHOICE OF ANIMAL FOOD.
   We conclude the foregoing treatise on the Art
 of Carving, by the following instructions, intended
 to aid housekeepers in the purchase of the most
 common oescriptions of meat for the table.
   Beef.—If the flesh of ox-beef is young, it will
 have a fine smooth  open grain, be of a  good red,
 and feel tender.  The fat should look Avhite rather
 than yellow; for when that is of a deep colour, the
 meat is seldom good:  beef fed by oil cakes is in
 general so, and the  flesh is flabby.  The grain of
 cow-beef is closer, and the fat whiter, than that of
 ox-beef; but the lean is not of so bright a red. The
 grain of bull-beef is closer sti'l, the fat hard and
 skinny, the lean of a deep red, and a stronger
 scent. Ox-beef is  the reverse.   Ox-beef  is the
 richest and largest;  but in small  families, and to
 some tastes, heifer-beef is better if finely fed.  In
 old meat  there is a streak of horn in the ribs of
 beef:  tlie harder this is, the older; and the flesh is
 not finely flavoured.
   Veal___The flesh  of a bull calf is  firmest, but
 not so white.  The fillet of the cow calf is gene-
 rally preferred  for the udder.  The whitest is not
 the most juicy,  having been made so by frequent
 bleeding, and having had whiting to lick. Choose
 the meat of which the kidney is well covered with
 white thick fat.  If the bloody vein in the shoulder
 looks blue, or of a  bright red, it is newly killed;
 but any other  colour shows it stale.   The other
 parts  should be dry  and white: if clammy or spot-
 ted, the meat is stale and bad.   The kidney turns
 first in the loin, and the suet will not then be firm.
  Mutton.—Choose this by  the  fineness of its
grain, good colour, and firm white fat.   It is not
the better for being young;  if of a good breed and
 well fed,  it is better for age; but this only  holds
 with wether mutton: the flesh of the ewe is  paler,
and the texture  finer.   Ram mutton is very strong
 flavoured, the flesh is of a deep red, and the  fat is
 spongy.
  Lamb___Observe the neck of a fore quarter:  if
 the vein is bluish, it is fresh; if it has a green or
 yellow cast,  it is stale.  In the hind quarter, if
 there is  a faint smell under the kidney, and the
 knuckle is limp, the meat is stale.   If the eyes are
 sunk, the head  is not  fresh.  Grass-lamb comes
 into  season in  April  or May, and continues till
 August.   House-lamb may be had  in great towns
 almost all the year,  but is in highest perfection in
 December and January.
  Popk___Pinch the lean,  and if  young it will
 break.  If the  rind is tough, thick, and cannot
 easily be  impressed by the finger, it is old.  A
 thin rind is a merit in all pork.  When fresh, the
 llesh  will be smooth  and  cool; if clammy, it is
tainted.  What is called measly pork is very un-
wholesome; and  may  be known by the fat being
full of kernels, which in good pork is never the
case.   PorK fed at still-houses does not answer for
curing any way, the  fat being spongy.   Dairy fed
pork is the best.

  A turkey cock, if young, has a smooth black
leg, with a short spur.   The eyes full and bright,
if fresh, and the feet supple and moist.  If stale,
the eyes will be  sunk, and the feet dry.—A hen-
turkey is known by the same rules; but if old, her
legs will be red and  rough.
  Fowls.—If a cock is young, his spurs will be
short;  but take care to  see they have not been cut
or pared, which  is  a  trick often practised.  If
fresh,  the vent will be  close and dark.  Pullets
are best just before they begin  to lay, and yet are
full of  eggs: if old hens, their combs and legs will
be rough;  if young, they will be smooth. A good
capon has a thick belly and a large rump: there is
a particular fat at his breast, and the comb is very
pale.   Black-legged  fowls are most moist,  if for
roasting.
  Geese.—The bill  and feet of a young one will
be yellow, and there will be  but few hairs upon
them;  if old, they will be red: if fresh, the feet
will be pliable; it stale, dry and  stiff.   Geese are
called green till three or four months old.   Green
geese should  be scalded: a stubble-goose should
be picked drv.
  Ducks.—Choose them  by the same rules, of
having supple  feet, and by their  being hard and
thick on the breast and belly.  The feet ofa tame
duck are thick, and  inclining to dusky yellow; a
wild one has the feet reddish, and smaller than the
tame.   They should be  picked dry.   Ducklings
must be scalded.
  Shad.—If good, they are white and thick.  If
too fresh  they eat tough, but must not be kept
above two days without salting.
  Herrings.—If good, their gills are of a fine red,
and the eyes bright;  as is likewise the whole fish,
which must be stiff and firm.
  Lobsters.—If they  have not been long taken, the
claws will have a strong motion when you put your
finger on the eyes and  press them.   The heaviest
are the best   The  cock-lobster is  known  by the
narrow back part of  his tail, and  the two upper-
most fins within it are stiff and hard; but those of
the hen are soft, and  the tail broader.  The male,
though generally smaller, has the  highest flavour,
the flesh is firmer, and the colour when boiled is
a deeper red.
  Crabs,—The heaviest are best, and those of a
middling  size  are sweetest.   If light they are
watery; when  in perfection the joints of the legs
are stiff, and the body has a very agreeable  smeli.
The eyes look dead and loose when  stale.
  Oysters.—-There are several kinds.  The native
are finest, being white and fat; but others may be
made  to  possess  both these qualities in some de-
gree by proper feeding.  When alive and  strong
the shell is close.   They should be  eaten as soon
as opened, the  flavour becoming  poor otherwise.
The rock-oyster is largest, but usually has a coarse
flavour if eaten raw.
  The abundance  and  variety  of fishes  daily
brought to market in every  seaport town  in the
United States, cannot be equalled in any other part
of the world.   And  the general  practice of ex-
hibiting them for sale jumping alive, while  it pre-
cludes the possibility of deception, renders farther
directions for avoiding imposition unnecessary. 
tJNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
427
INDEX.
Abscess    ....    219
Accidents in general          .        .    220
    compound       ...    227
Acid liquors         .         .        .    153
    pyroligneous, to prepare  .        .    155
    acetous, to make strong    .        .156
    acetic, to prepare         .        .    241
    formic          .         .        .156
    marine, or spirits of salt  .        .     ib
Acorn coffee         .         .        .158
Adulteration in wine to detect          .    137
Ague, treatment  of the        .        .    199
Air, to purify, in hospitals, theatres, &c.      240
    pipes for ventilating ships          .    241
    trunk  .         .         .              ib
    to cool it in  summer, German way  .     ib
    vitiated, in bed rooms, to correct    .     ib
    to fumigate foul rooms    .        .     ib
    portable apparatus for purifying the       399
    foul, cautions respecting the        .    260
    ventilation of churches and houses        ib
    burying in churches       .        .    261
    noxious vapours in  wells, to prevent
      the effects of, &c.        .         261, 407
    bath, use of
Alcohol, to make, from potatoes
    to discover in Avine, beer, &c.
    to ascertain proportions of, in wine, &c.
Me, London, to brew
    to. brew, in small  families
    on Mr Cobbett's plan
    from sugar and malt
    to brew Welsh, Burton, Ringwood, Not-
      tingham, Dorchester, Essex, Barnsta-
      ble, Edinburgh, Windsor,
    table    .
    Yorkshire oat
    from pea-shells  .
    to fine and preserve
    to give new the flavour of old
    to bottle
    to ripen, if flat, when bottled
    to manage in the cellar
Alexeterial Avaters,  simple, to distil
Alloys,  or compound metals
    fusible          •       _ •
    metallographical application of
Alloy for flute-key valves
    printers' types
    small do. and stereotype  plates
    of gold with platinum
Almond milk, to make
    oil  of
Amalgam of gold in the large way
Ammonia, pure, ivater of
    acetated
Amputation
Aneurism   .
Angina  pectoris      .        •
Anti-scorbutic water,  to distil .
Animation,  suspended
408
143
392
392
108
109
110
111
112,113
    110
    114
     ib
    115
    117
    120
     ib
     ib
    150
      9
     10
     11
     10
     ib
     ib
     13
    660
     ib
     17
    253
     ib
    227
    218
    214
    153
    228
Anatto for dyeing, to use, &c.  .
Anchovies, artificial, to pickle  .
Animals, noxious, bites and stings of
    to paint, water colours
Animal food, choice of        .
Anisette de Bourdeaux        .
Aniseed cordial, to make
    oil of,  to obtain  .
    compound spirit of
Anti-attrition, to prepare
Anli menial ores, to assay
Antimony, arseniated, humid assay of
Ants, acid of, (see formic acid)
Apiary, to establish an
Apoplexy
Apples, to preserve  .
    to keep for market
    qualities of
Apricots, to preserve
    qualities of
Aqua-mellis, honey water, to make
Aqua-fortis, double
    common        .
    simple
Aqua-regia, to prepare
    common
Arrack, to make
Arsenical ores, to assay
Artichokes
Ascarides, to destroy
Asparagus, to cultivate, &c.
    ragout of
    qualities of
Assay of metallic o^es
Assay of ores, dry way
    Aveights
    of metallic ores, humid
    iron  ores
    humid, of ditto  .
    zinc ores
    tin do.
    lead do.
    copper do.      .
    bismuth do.
    antimonial do.
    humid, of arseniated antimony
    manganese ores
    arsenical do.    .
    nickel do.       .
    cobalt do.
    mercurial do
    humid, of cinnabar
    silver ores
              by cupellation
    the value of silver
    double, of silver
    ores and earths containing gold
    humid,  of gold, mixed with martial py-
       rites
    plated metals
Asthma
Attrition, anti, to prepare
 ib
 13
203
 23 
428
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
B.
Bacon, qualities of . .	402
Badigeon, to distemper in .	40
Balloons, to A-arnish .	34
rarefied air	ib
Balsam of turpentine, Dutch drops from	149
Tolu, tincture of	252
Riga, to obtain the true	148
Godbold's vegetable	253
ot honey	252
Barberry marmalade, to make .	183
to preserve	186
Barley, varieties of	330
to prepare the ground for	ib
quantity of seed, &c. he. .	ib
qualities of	403
Barns and out-houses, to clear from wevi	s,
&c.	337
rats and mice	418
Barometers, to ronstruct	383
to purify the mercury	ib
process of filling the tube .	ib
Troughton's improved marine	ib
portable . .	385
simple	413
Bath metal, to prepare	11
Bath, cold, use of	259
shower	ib
tepid . . •	260
Bathing, cramp in . .	259
precautions in . .	ib
general observations on .	ib
sea . . .	ib
Beans, plough for cleaning	315
qualities of . .	303
to cultivate . .	331
drilling, approved modes ot*	ib
machines . .	332
quantity of seeds for .	ib
hoeing, he. . .	ib
Beds, to ivarm . .	391
Beech wood, to dye mahogany	93
Beef, qualities of . .	402
leg of, to pot . • .	166
to salt . .	186
en daube . .	167
a la mode, to make . ,	166
another	415
tongue	167
sportsman's . .	417
tainted, to restore	ib
choice of	426
to carve . .	420
Bee-flowers, to cultivate . .	365
Beer, table, to brew from pale malt .	110
from sugar	114
from treacle . . .	110
on Mr Cobbett's plan . .	ib
bran, to brew .	114
cheap . . .	ib
from pea-shells, to brew . .	114
ginger	156
required time for keeping .	114
to give brightness to . .	115
amber, or two-penny, to brew .	ib
molasses, to make . .	ib
to fine . . .	ib
musty, to restore . .	ib
dead, to enliven . .	ib
to fine and preserve a cask of .	ib
flat, to recover . .	116
td prevent becoming stale and flat .	ib
ropy, to restore	117
stale or sour, to restore	iii
frosted, to restore	ib
foxing, to cure, &c.	114
to gi ve a rich flavour to	117
 Beer, caution in the use of foreign ingredients  119
     t: "de, to bottle            .
     bottled, to ripen          •
     ginger powders, to make
 Bees, to avoid 'njury from     .
     management ot
     to work in glass hives     .
               straw hives
               box hives
               hectagon, box and straw
               the common hive
     to establish an apiary
     to swarm
     to hive
     to unite swarms, he.
     to feed
           by an improved machine
     to manage generally
     to keep large hives for winter
     to manage on  Mr Thorley's plan
     to manage on  Mr Cobbett's plan
 Beets, brandy from  .         .
     sugar from       .         .
 Bell-metal, to prepare         .
 Bergamotte water, to distil     .
 Beverages,  miscellaneous
 Biles
 Birch oil
 Binding, improved mode of    .
 Birds, to draw in water colours
 Biscuits, fancy, to make        .
     sponge
     Savoy           .         .
 Bismuth ores, to assay
 Bites and stings of noxious animals, he.
     of reptiles and insects     .
 Blacking, to make     .        .
     liquid           .        .
     cake, Bailey's, to make,
     balls for shoes
    Japan, liquid
Bladder, inflammation of the
Blanc-mange, to make, he.    .
     lemon          .        ,
     Mrs Hoffman's
Bleaching and scouring
    liquors, improved to  prepare
    sulphuret of lime for
    bleaching, sulphurous acids for
    to full cloths, woollens, &c.
    to wash chintz
    to wash fine lace or linen
    to clean black and white sarcenets
    to wash and stain tiffanies
    to wash and starch lawns
    to clean buff-coloured cloth
    to make saponaceous  ley for Avashing
    to clean and starch point lace
    to clean white veils
            black  do
            white,  satin and flowered silks
            coloured silks of all kinds
            black do
    to dip rusty do
    to clean silk stockings
    to extract grease from coloured silks and
        muslins
    to take stains out of silks
    to take spots  of paint  from cloth, &c.
    to scour yarn
    thick cotton counterpanes
    undyed woollens
    clothes, coats, pelisses, &c.
    carpets,  hearth-rugs,  he.  .
    to clean cotton gOAvns     .
            scarlet cloth
    to dip scarlet  cloth 
INDEX.
Bleaching and scouring,
    to raise the nap on cloth
    to revive faded black cloth
    to dry clean cloth
    to take iron  mould out of linen
    tr make breeches ball
            clothes do
    to take grease out of leather breeches
    to prepare a chemical liquor for boot tops
    to remove oil from feathers
    to clean leather
    to make scouring balls
    to clean marble
    to remove stains from silver plate
    to make plate look like new
    to take out fruit spots from  cloth
    to clean gold lace and embroidery
    to remove grease from  cloth
                    from  paper
    to take mildew out of  linen
    to take out spots of ink
    to take out stains from  cloth or* silk
    to clean gloves without wetting
    Fuller's purifier for woollens
    to clean all sorts of metal   .
    to remove stains from  mahogany
    to take out writing        .
    to restore whites in old pictures
    to restore hangings, carpets, &c.
    to clean paper hangings
 Bleach, to, cloths    .
    linen, he. by oxymuriatic acids
    by oxymuriate of lime     .
    by sulphuret of lime       .
    by alkalized steam        .
    cotton           •        •
     wool
     silk
    prints and printed books
     wool, silk, straw hats,  he.
     shell-lac, way to
 Bleeding at the nose, to stop
     from wounds     do
     from the lungs    do
     from the stomach do _     .
     to perform  the operation of
 Blindness, night
 Blotched face
 Blubber, mode of applying as manure
 Boerhaave's rules for preserving health
 Bonbons, to make
 Bone, use of  as manure
     to dye different colours
 Bonnets, straAV, to bleach
 Books, printed, to bleach
     method of binding
     to cover with leather
     half bound
 Boots, to render water proof   .         SO,
 Boot-tops, chemical liquor for
 Boots and shoes, to clean
     to prevent leaking
 Bougies, directions for passing
 Bouilli en matelotte
 Box-wood, to dye brown
     for engraving
 Brain, inflammation of the
     concussion of  the         .
     compression of the
 Brass, to prepare
     fine casting of   .
     solder, for  iron, to make
     ornaments, to preserve
                 to polish       •
 Brawn, mock, to make         .
 Brandy, British, to make
          to improve   .        •
 99
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
100
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
101
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 94
 95
 ib
 ib
 ib
 96
 ib
 ib
 97
 99
 97
202
221
204
205
230
201
217
324
260
181
324
 92
 99
 97
393
  ib
  ib
405
  99
388
417
 231
 167
  93
  78
 201
 221
  ib
  11
  12
  13
 387
  31
 109
 141
 142
Brandy, Cogniac, to imitate
    from treacle    .
         potatoes
         beets
    cherry, to make
           black, to make
    caraway         .
    lemon           .
plan
    orange          .
    raspberry       .
Breath, to sweeten   .
Brew-house, to fit up a small
Brewing            .
    to choose water for
    improvement in
    to cool worts in
Brew, to, porter on the London
    on Mr Morris's plan
    brown stout
    London ale
    ale in small families
    table beer from pale malt
              from sugar and treacle
    ale and small beer on  Mr Cobbett's pi
    porter from sugar and malt
    Barnstable, Burton, Dorchester, Ed
      burgh,  Essex, Nottingham,  Ring,
      wood, Welsh, Windsor,  ale
    Yorkshire oat
    with Needham's portable machine
    porter, with table beer after
    bran beer
    cheap do       .
    beer and ale from pea shell
    amber beer      •
    molasses beer    .
    spruce beer      .
    sugar beer
Brewing utensils, to preserve
    use of sugar in
Bread, qualities of    .
    potatoe
    excellent        .
    with little yeast
    London baker's  .
    household
    to produce one-third more
         quantity
    French          .
     mixed
     bran
     leaven, to make
     four quartern loaves
     cheap, to make
     of Iceland moss and flour
     on Cobbett's plan
     adulterated, to detect
 Breeches ball, to make
     leather, to remove grease from
 Brimstone, like marble, to make
 Bristles, to dye green
     blue and red
 Britannia metal, to make
 Bronchocele or goitre
 Bronze, to prepare
     to plaster figures
 Brushes, choice of, for miniature painting
 Budding trees, method of
     shield
     by double ligatures
 Bugs, to prevent, &c.
 Buns, common, to  make
     cross
 Burns and scalds
     liniments  for
 Burnishing, to gild by
 Butter, qualities ot
   429

    141
    142
     ib
    144
    147
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
    190
    106
     ib
     ib
    110
108, 394
    108
from a given
109
 ib
 ib
 ib
110
 ib
 ib
111
112, 113
    114
    113
    114
      ib
      ib
      ib
     115
      ib
     114
      ib
     117
     119
     403
     172
     361
      ib
      ib
     362
    ib
    ib
    ib
    ib
    ib
    ib
    ib
    ib
    ib
  363
    99
    ib
    70
    92
    ib
    12
  213
    12
    30
    65
  287
    ib
  288
 ,%387
#179
    ib
   230
    ib
    15
   402 
430
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT  BOOK.
Butter, to cure	360, 407
to remove the turnip flavour from	360
to make, Dumbarton way .	ib
Russian way	394
of roses . .	148
Bubo	210
C.	
Cabbages, qualities of	403
to keep caterpillars from	305
to keep the red spider from	ib
to preserve for sea voyages	393
Cajeput oil, to obtain	14s
Cakes, sec pastry . .	177,4l3
Calf, or other skins, to tan	280
Calico printing, process of	89
to dye nankin colour .	ib
various colour" ,	ib
to mix the tin with indigo	ib
to dye dove colour and drab	ib
different colours	ib
to prepare substitute for gum	ib
Calves, to rear	357
without milk	ib
Camomile, oil of . .	148
Camphor, from essential oils, to obtain	149
japan	ib
mixture, to repare	200
Cancer . " .	213
of the yard	211
Candlesticks and snuffers, to clean	389
Candles, substitute for	359
wax, to make	396
Canvass, to make water proof .	41
Caoutchouc varnish, to make .	34
Capillaire, to make . .	182
Capsicum, to raise . .	305
Carbuncle . . •	219
Card work, to varnish .	25
Cayenne pepper, to make .	305
Carmine .	43
for dyeing, to prepare .	91
Carpets, to scour . •	99
to restore . .	101
to print . •	91
to choose . •	394
Caraway cordial, to make . .	146
oil, to obtain . •	148
Carrots, qualities of . • .	404
to cultivate . . .	338
spirits from.	143
Carving, art of	419
a leg of mutton	ib
a shoulder of mutton .	ib
a leg of pork	420
a shoulder of pork	ib
an edge bone of beef	ib
a knuckle of veal	ib
a roasted breast of veal	ib
a saddle of mutton	421
a spare rib of pork .	ib
half a calf's head boiled .	ib
a ham • •	ib
a haunch of venison	ib
an ox tongue • •	422
.,, a brisket of beef .	ib
a buttock of beef	ib
a sirloin of beef .	ib
a fore quarter of lamb . ,	ib
aifillet of veal a Toast pig	423
	ib
a rabbit . • •	ib
a goose . « •	ib
a pheasant . . •	ib
a partridge • a fowl . •	424 ib
 Carving, art of
     a turkey         .        .        •     *24
     a pigeon         .        .        •     419
     a cod's head     .        .             425
     boiled salmon    .        .        .      ib
     a mackerel       .        .              ib
 Catheter, directions for passing the       .     230
 Casks, musty, to sweeten      .        .117
     foul, to sweeten           .        .      ib
     to sweeten,  London cooper's way    .     118
     new, to season    .        .        .      ib
     match for sweetening      .        .     137
     empty, to keep sweet      .        .118
     to close without bungs     .        .     119
 Cassia oil,  to obtain            .        .     148
 Casting stereotype plates, mode of       .      10
     fine, of brass, he.         .        .      12
 Casts,  metallic,  from copper engravings       10
     from fusible metal         .        .      11
 Catsup, tomatas,  to make      .        176,414
     for sea store     .        •        .     176
 Caterpillars on gooseberries, to prevent the
     ravages of                              299
     on shrubs, plants,  &c.      .        .     306
     to drive away    .        .        .     387
 Catarrh, or cold       .        .        .203
 Cattle, diseases of (see Farriery)        .     264
     horned, cheap way of rearing       .     356
 Cautions,  salutary    .        .        .     254
     to painters and  glaziers    .        .     242
     preservation of health on ship board       255
     in removing from a hot to a cold situation  262
     purification  Of water by charcoal     .    254
     to seamen on shore         .         .    255
              in the tropics    .         .      ib
     preservation from drowning, &c.     .    256
     in bathing       .         .         .    259
     cleanliness      .         .         .    255
     prevention of dampness and cold    .      ib
     exercise and amusements   .         .      ib
    effects  of climate          .              ib
    intoxication       .        .               ib
    noxious vanours  .         .         .    258
    captain Cook's  rules for seamen     .      ib
    to females Avhose clothes are on fire      408
    prevention of this accident           .      ib
     to escape lightning        .         .    406
    to prevent the effects of cold         .     228
    food, qualities of, vegetable and animal   402
    general rules for preserving health   .     260
                 for treating diseases    .     197
     Sir R. Philips' rules »or preserving health 260
    Dr Boerhaave's  do       do      do      ib
    exercise          .         .         .    261
     getting wet       .         .         .     262
    to keep the feet dry        .         .      ib
    cold liquors  in hot weather          .    408
     clothing         .         .         .    S60
    air      .        .         .               ib
    dram-drinking   .         .         .    408
    to procure sleep           .         .      ib
    to relieve headach          .         .     201
    the air bath      .         .         .    408
    to preserve the eye-sight    .         .     262
    cosmetics       .         .         .     263
    the teeth        .         ,         .      ib
    warts           .         .         .    234
    accidents in  general        .         .    220
    to  detect oxalic acid        .         •    408
    prevention of and escape from fire   .    395
    to extinguish fires in chimneys       .     386
    to rei.der paper fire proof            .    408
     security against fire i'n manufactories     409
      do    - do     in hay-stacks    .      ib
     scalds  and burns        "   .         ,     230
    to escape from a house on fire       .     395
Cedrat cordial, to make        .              145 
INDEX.
31
Cedrat, essence, to obtain ,	143
Celery, qualities of	404
Cements, , m	101
Cement, building . .	ib
Hamelin's . ,	102
fa floors	ib
for canals . .	103
Parker's	ib
for rock work and reservoirs	ib
mortar, to make	ib
Tunisian	ii)
Dutch Terras .	ib
Tournay . .	ib
Roman . .	ib
genuine Roman	ib
Maltha or Greek mastich ,	ib
Indian . .	ib
impenetrable mortar .	ib
Wych's stucco	ib
Williams's stucco . ,	104
iron, to make	ib
water	ib
fire and water-proof	io
Turkish, for joining metal, glass	ib
Yates's water-proof	ib
common, for alabaster, he.	ib
to make lutes	ib
for iron, culinary utensils	105
Turner's, to make	ib
for joining broken glasses .	ib
strong, for electrical uses	ib
for glass-grinders	ib
for broken glass	ib
for Derbyshire spar, he.	ib
to resist boiling Avater and steam	ib
blood, for coppersmiths	106
Japanese or rice glue	ib
royal, to make	19
for metals, to make	385
mahogany-coloured	ib
microscopic	106
for entomologists	ib
for steam engines, two	105
patent	392
Laplander's	412
Cerate, of Spanish flies	251
Turner's ...	ib
Chairs, old leather, lo restore blackness tc	32
to restore	101
Chalk mixture	207
Chalks for drawing	53
Chamois, imitation of	283
Chancres .	210
Charcoal, to make	140
for drawing	53
to protect from the effects of .	261
Cheese, qualities of	402
green gooseberry, to matte Damson . .	172 184
Cheshire	361
Stilton, substitute for .	395
Parmesan, to imitate	ib
cakes, various .	180
Cherries, qualities of . .	404
to dry . .	186
Chesnut, horse, uses of	282
Chesnuts, to preserve	309
Chest, dropsy of	204
Avounds in the	2£>
Chicken pox . . .	216
Chickens, to manage	358
pie of . • t	168
lo hatch	358
au soleil	167
Chilblains, to remove	234, 394
Children, management and diseases of	246
infant nursing	ib
Children, management and diseases of
    friction         .
    position
    exercise
    to prevent distortion
    to render hardy
    cleanliness and bathing
    dressing
    heat and  cold
    food and  drink
    early rising
    walking
    sleep
    restlessness
    the nursery
    nurses
    external impressions
    amusements
    retention of the meconium
    the yellow gum
    vomiting
    hiccups         .
    griping and  flatulency
    diarrhoea
    excoriations
    cutaneous eruptions
    the thrush
    falling of the fundament
    dentition
    scarifying the gums
    convulsions
    inWard fits
    the rickets
    distorted spine
    ring-worm and scald head
    hooping-cough
    croup
Chimneys, smoky, to cure
    to clean
    on fire, to extinguish
China ware, to manufacture
           to bake
    Saxon or Dresden
    English,  composition of
    glaze for printing blue frit
          to prepare
          for flotts
    and glass, to clean  and pack
Chinese sheet lead, to make
Chintz, to wash
Chlorosis
Chocolate, qualities of
    to make
    drops
Cholera morbus (see Medicine)
Chowder
Cider, to make
    Devonshire
    Scotch
    to manage
    cheap, from raisins
    general rules for making
Cinnabar, humid assay of
Cinnamon, cordial, to make
                  strong
    oil of, to obtain
    water, to make
Citron cordial, to make
Citrons, to obtain the essence of
Clay,  burning, Mr Craig's method
Cloth, cotton, to  dye  black
    black, to  dye green
    to bleach
    to full
    to render Avater-proof
    common waxed
    fine printed,  varnished 
432
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 Cloth, buff-coloured,  to clean          .     97
     to take out fruit stains from        .    100
     to take spots of paint from         .     98
                    grease from        .    100
     scarlet, to clean and dip    .        ,     99
     the nap on, to raise        .        .     ib
     faded blick, to revive     .        .     ib
     to dry clean     .         .        .     ib
 Clothes ball, to make          .        .    100
 Clothes, to brush     .         .        .    390
     to preserve      .         .        .    387
     to scour         .         .        .94
     to take out  rease from     .        .    390
     to perfumed     .         .        .190
 Clove cordial, to make         .        .    146
     drops, to obtain           .        .    182
 Cloves, oil of        .        .        .148
 Coal-tar, to make gas from    .        .    391
 Coats, to scour       .        ,        .94
 Cobalt ores, to assay  .        ,        .7
     oxide of, to prepare       .        .     69
 Cocoa, sassafras      .        .        .    157
     substitutes for    .        .        .     158
 Coffee, qualities of            .        .    404
     to make          .         .        .     159
     substitutes for   .         .        .    157
     acorn           .        .              ib
     Arabian method of making         .     159
     improvement in          .        .     ib
     Parisian method of making         .    160
     milk, to make   .        .        .      ib
     drops           .        .        .182
     pot,  improved   .        .        .     396
 Coins, easy mode of taking impressions from   395
 Cold, intense,  remedies for    .        .     228
     and dampness, to prevent the effects of   255
     liquors, effects of, to prevent       .     408
Colds, remedies for           .         .     236
     emulsion for     .        .              ib
     gargles for      .        .              ib
Colic  *    .         .        .         .207
     painter's        .        .        .     208
Colour, to, steel blue          .         .21
Colours, oil and water         .        .     35
    for house painting, to mix          .      ib
    black paint, to make       .         .      ib
    lamp-black      .         .         .36
    black, froi#groiind pit-coal         .      ib
               wine lees      .         .      ib
               ivory and bone          .      ib
    blue and blue distemper   .         .     38
        paint, (Prussian)     .         .      ib
        Saxon       .         .               ib
        verditer     .        .              ib
    chamois and buff          .         .      ib
    chesnut          .         .         .39
    crimson or rose  .         .               ib
    green           .         .         .38
         cheap      .         .         .40
         (sea) for distemper   .         .     38
                 varnish and oils      .     ib
         comprund, for rooms         .     39
         for carriage wheels   .         .     ib
         paint, cheap         .         .     37
    grey, (light) and distemper         .     36
         flaxen   •   .         .        .37
         pearl       .         .              ib
    jonquil         .         .        .     ib
    olive, for oil and varnish   .        .     38
         for distemper        .        .     ib
    fine black       .         .        .400
    chesnut         .         .        .39
    oak wood        .         .        .37
    red, for carriages          .        .     39
           cuffets   .         .              ib
        bright       .         .              ib
    violet          .        .        .     ib
 Colours, oil and water
     walnut wood     .         •
     white paint
     white distemper
           house paint, economical
     yellow, Naples and Montpellier
            golden
   artist's oil
     azure,  to make an excellent
     blue
         verditer
         Saxon, artificial
         Prussian
         liquid, superb
         cobalt, bleu de Thenard
     carmine, to prepare
     cochineal, substitute for
     green
          Scheele's  .        .
          Brunswick
          new
          paint, to improve
     lake, from Brazil-wood
          from other matters
          carminated, from madder
          from scarlet cloth    .
          improvement in do
          fine red
          beautiful do          .
          Florentine          •
          from madder
          to give various tones to
          orange and yellow
     pink
          fine brown           .
          Dutch, from woad
                from yellow berries
          brownish yellow
          for oil painting
     purpfo
     red
         dark
     rouge
     ultra-marine
         to extract  the remainder of
         to test
     violet, to prepare
     white, pearl
          durable, for painters
    yellow, lemon
            Chinese .         .
            Montpellier
            Naples
            patent
    flesh, to imitate .
     used in  encaustic painting  .
     compound for  receiving
     mixed, to prepare
           directions for using
    to mix mineral substances m linseed oil
Colouring materials
Colours, wash, for  maps, to prepare
         blue, red, green, yelloAV,
     water, used in  draAving
          implements
          to draw in
          general  or simple
    blacks, blues, browns, crimsons, greens,
      lakes, purples, reds,  whites, yellows,
      to prepare     .         .       49,50, 51
    yellows, from French berries       .     50
    nnxed, directions for      .        .     52
    to prevent from cracking  .        .     53
    solution of gum for       .        .     ib
    to keep  off flies          .        .     j[,
    alum water,  to prepare for          .     ib
    lime wate1'      .         .              ;b 
INDEX.
433
Colours, lixivium of pearl-ashes
    decayed, to restore
    to keep from sinking
    for animals, to mix
    to draw fruits in
            birds in
    rules for painting landscapes _._
         for sketching portraits from life
    primitive and their combinations
    for painting on velvet
Composts, to prepare
    for manure      .
    for moulds
    for plants
    Lord Meadowbank's
Compression of the brain
Confectionary
    drops
    sugar, to prepare for candying
          to candy
          candied, to colour
          barley, to make
          candy, white, do
          loaf, to clarify
          coarse, brown, do
          to improve and increase
          starch, to make
          birch, to make
          pear
          grape
          devices in
    bon-bons, to make
    ginger, to candy
    horehound, do
    orange-peel,   do
    lemon-peel,  do
    whipt syllabub, to make
    solid   do         do
    snow balls        do
    capillaire         do
    chocolate drops   do
    orange flower do   do
    coffee do         do
    peppermint do   do
    clove do         do
    ginger  do        do
    liquorice lozenges do
             extract of do
             juice of  do
             refined   do
    marmalade, orange,  to candy
                transparent, to make
                barberry
                quince        •
                Scotch        ■
    jelly, hartshorn   .
          currant, and black currant
          calf's foot  .
          ivory       •        •
          strawberry          •
          gooseberry          •
    cream, whipt    .        •
            pistachio
            ice      •        •
            raspberry         •
    jam, raspberry, and strawberry
    paste, raspberry  .
           orgeat
    pate de gui mauve
        jujubes       •        •
    Damson cheese   .        •
    omelette souffle, (see Culinary Arts)
 Conservatory, to make a
 Consumption,  (see Medicine)  .
 Contagious disorders,  (see Small Pox, Putrid
       Fever, he.)
     air, to  purify, (see Air)
       2 B
 53
 ib
 ib
 55
 ib
 56
 ib
 ib
 64
 66
286
285
 ib
286
320
221
180
182
180
 ib
182
181
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
182
181
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
182
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 i'j
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 183
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 413
 249
 184
 ib
 183
  ib
  ib
 184
 ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
 286
 204
241
Contagious disorders,
    air, permanent and portable apparatus,
      to purify
    preparation of acetic acid
    aromatic vinegar, two kinds
    balsamic and anti-putrid vinegar
Concussion of  the brain
Contusions
Convulsions, in pregnancy
Cookery
    to boil meats    .
      bake do
      roast do      .
      fry  do
      salt  do
      pickle do
      regulate time in
    veal, savoury,  to make
         cake, to  make
         choice of
         breast  of, glacee
         shoulder, en galantine
         ragout of, cold
         to carve    '.
    fowls, to dress, game fashion
         wild
         choice of
         qualities of
    chicken, au soleil
            en salmis
            aux choux
    eggs and bacon, artificial, to make
    pork, loin of,  Portuguese way
    dry devils
    olio, to make    .         .
    beefsteak  pudding
        leg of, to  pot
              a la mode       .
        en bouilli    .         .
        en matelotte           .
        en daube
    tongue, beef's, aux champignons
    fish, en matelotte
    flounders
    terapins         .
    oysters           .         .
    eels, to pot
    lobster or crab, do
    duck, olive  sauce
    sausages,  Bologna, to make
              Oxford,     do  .
              Epping,    do  .
    savaloys,  to make          .
    French stew of green peas  and bacon
    brawn, mock, to make
    fast-day's dish
    omelette, military
             onion
            French
    trumenty
    raspberry dumplings
              cream tarts
    pie, pigeon, giblet, rump steak, chick-
      en, rabbit, raised French, raised ham,
      raised pork, eel, raised  lamb, peri-
  gord
pigeons, en compote
pigeons, aux choux
puff paste
short crust
paste for large pies
     for tarts
potatoes, to keep
         to steam
herrings, economical  use of
sack posset, to make
ale     do    do
168,
169—1
M 
434
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 Cookery
     green goosebe.ry cheese
     bread, potatoe,  to make
     potatoes, frosted, to use   .
     broth jelly, to make
     sauces, (see Sauces)
     soups, (see Soups)
     maccaroni, to make
     gravy cakes
     catsup, tomata
           for sea
     ragouts          .        .
 Cook's,  captain,  rules for preserving the
     health of seamen
 Copper,  ores, to assay
     test for
     blanched, to prepare      ,
     to detect in pickles or tea  .
     for foils
     plated, to separate silver from
     plates, to free from grease
           to secure from corrosion
           to choose for engraving
          -to apply varnish to
     plate, to  take  an impression from, on
       plaster
 Cordials  or compound spirits
     general  rules  for making
     anise-seed, caraway, cedrat, cinnamon,
       strong cinnamon, citron,  clove, cori-
       audet, eau de bigarade, gold, lemon,
       lovage, nectar, noyau, orange, pepper-
       mint, ratafia, dry ratafia, whiskey, 146-
     gout  do
 Corn, Indian, to cultivate
     advantages of reaping, before ripe
     to secure against insects
                    mice      ,
     to tread,  Virginia manner  .
     to clean from chaff, by fanners
 Corns, treatment of          '  .
     to prevent
Cosmetics
Costiveness, remedy for
Cotton, to bleach    .         .
Coughs and colds, remedies for (see Catarrh)
    candied horehound
    paregoric elixir            .
    expectorant pills
Cough mixture
    medicine, Dr Monro's
    simple remedy for
    to allay at night
    chronic,  remedy for
    in aged persons
    recent
    emulsions
    troublesome, and spitting of blood, to
      allay
Counterpanes, thick cotton, to scour
Court plaster
Cows,  improved mode of feeding
Cow feeder, directions to the
    milch, to choose
    economy of a
Crabs, to pot
       to, choose    .         .
Cramp, in the stomach          .
       in bathing    .         .
Craycis, to paint in  .
    implements     .         .
     drawing  ihe outlines
    painting from life
    posture and light
     features of the face        .
    the neck, he.
     draperies, he.
173
  ib
  ib
174
175
172
175
176
  ib
  ib
  ib

256
  6
392
 12
392
  5
 .7
 78
 ib
 79
 77

412
146
-148
 240
 327
 329
 337
  ib
 316
 317
 234
  ib
 187
 238
  96
 236
 181
 236
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib

 411
  98
 252
 356
  ib
 357
  ib
 166
 426
 205
 259
  56
  ib
  ib
  ib
  57
  ib
  ib
  58
Crayons, coloured,  to prepare
    arrangement of
    carminated lake, for
    for drawing, to make
Cream, qualities of
    whipt, to make
    pistachio
    ice
    raspberry
    substitute for
    painter's
Creme de Barbades, real
          noyeau de Martinique
       d'orange
Crickets, to destroy
Croup, in children, remedies for
Crows, to banish from a field
Crucibles, to make
Crumpets,    do
Cucumbers
    to cultivate      .
    to pickle
    to preserve      ,
    qualities of      .
Culinary arts         ,
Currants,  qualities of
Curry, to make a
    powder
Curwen's mode of burning surface
Custards, (see Pastry)
Cuts
Cuttings, for plants, to choose
    to propagate  by  .
    to insert
    to manage
soil and
      58
      59
      54
      ib
     402
     183
      ib
      il.
     184
     360
      25
     144
     145
      ib
     413
     249
     338
     371
     178
     301
     300
     185
     187
     404
     163
     404
     173
      ib
clay  322
     178
     221
     289
      ib
     290
      ib
                      D.
Daffy's elixir, to  prepare      .         .     252
Dairy, to manage a            .         .     356
       maid, directions to                     ib
Damsons, to preserve          .         .186
Damson cheese, to make       .  .      .     184
Dance of St Vitus             .         .     214
Daniel's life preserver         .         .     2f>7
Deafness in old persons, to cure         .     397
Death, sudden, cautions respecting       .     406
Deift-ware, to make                    .     370
Debility, treatment ot          .         .     205
Decanters, to clean             .         .     390
Decline,  remedy  for           .         .     417
Devils, dry, to make           .         .     166
Diabetes             ...     209
Dials, transparent, for clocks   .         .     39c
Diarrhcea, to check            .         .     207
           various remedies for          .     239
Diet, substances used in        .         .     402
    qualities of animal and vegetable    .      ib
    beef, veal, mutton,  lamb, house lamb,
      pork, hams, bacon, goat's flesh, veni-
      son,  blood of animals, milk, cream,
      butter, cheese,  fowls,  turkeys, wild
      fowls, eggs,  fish,  oysters,  muscles,
      periwinkles, bread, pastiy,  oats, bar-
      ley,  rice,   potatoes,  peas,   beans,
      salad, spinach, asparagus, artichokes,
      cabbages, turnips, carrots,  parsnips,
      parsley, oelery, onions, garlic, &c. ra-
      dishes, apples, pears, cherries, plums,
      peaches and currants, apricots, goose-
      berries, strawberries, cucumbers, tea,
      coffee, chocolate,                402—40»
Dietetic composition,  nutritious          .     15,"
Digestion, to improve          .         ,     239
Digestive pills       .         .               ib
Dippel's  oil, to obtain          .         ,     149,
Diseases  peculiar to females             .     242
    hysteric fits      .                  .      ib 
INDEX.
435
Diseases peculiar to females
    hysteric fits, pills for
    debility
    fluor albus, or whiter,
        regimen, he,
        tonic and astringent pills
        prevention of
    immoderate flow of the menses
        astringent fomentations
        laxative mixture
        regimen, he.
 •   green sickness
        regimen, &c.
    chalybeate pills and draught for
        tonic draught
        tincture  ot  iodine
    cessation of the menses
        regimen, he.
    dropsy, remedies for      .         244,
    vomiting during pregnancy
    sickness in do
    heart-burn
    head-ach         .         .
    hysteria
    costiveness and  piles
    itchings
    swelling of the feet,  he.
    cramp
        in the stomach
    distention and cracking of the skin
              of the veins
    incontinency of  urine
    restlessness and want of sleep
    convulsions
    the milk fever   .         .
        remedies    .         .
        regimen     .         .
    inflamed breasts
    sore nipples      .
    puerperal fever   .         .
        remedies
        regimen     .         .
Diseases of children, (see Children)
Dislocations, treatment of
    ofthe lower jaw, collarbone, shoulder,
      elbow,  wrist, fingers, &c,  thigh,
      knee, leg, foot
Distemper, red, for tiles, to make
    in badigeon,  to
    sea-green, for    .         .
    blue, for
    olive, for        .
    to paint in       •         •
    white            .         *
Distillation           .         «
    utensils used in          .
    to preserve flowers for
    of compound  spirits
    of essential and other oils
    of compound  waters
Distilleries, fires  in, to extinguish
Dogs, purging ball for
    ointment for the mange
    best breed of, for shooting game
    to know the age of, to six years
    liniment for
    mercurial  do for red mange
    mild ointment for
    lotion for
    distemper in     .
Doses, medicinal
Domestic economy
Dover's powders
Drain, under,  to,  clay lands
             to,  lands
Dram-drinking, to remedy effects of
Draining, pit
243
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
244
243
244
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
401
 ib
 .b
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
245
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ■b
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
246
 ib
 ib
225
226
 40
 ib
 38
 ib
 ib
 36
 ib
138
 ib
150
146
148
151
140
274
 ib
417
 ib
274
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
264
356
250
347
343
408
348
Draining land, Bailey's plan fin              348
Drains, main, to construct     .               ib
    to fill           .         .               ib
Draperies, &c. to paint        .        .     64
DraAV, to, in Avater colours              •     49
    on glass and on stone      .           67, 68
Drawings, to preserve
    to varnish
    water colours used in
      floss on, to prevent
      lack lead pencil, to preserve
    to copy
    in crayons, to fix         .
Drawing pencils, artificial black-lead
    English, to  make
    crayons
Dresses,  mourning, to free from stains
Drop, the black, composition of
Dropsy
    of the chest
    of the belly
DroAvning, preservation from   .
    assistance in
    to extricate from broken ice
    suffocation by   .
    removal of the body
    free ci.-culation of fresh air
    number of assistants      .
    inflation of the lungs
    warm fomentations        ,
    fumigations and clysters
    warm bath      .         .
    agitation
    administration of cordials
    bleeding, he.
Duck, olive  sauce
Dumplings,  raspberry
Dung beds, to form   .        .
    to increase, by soiling
Dutch drops, to obtain
Dyeing, in all its varieties
    mordants for    .        .
    to choose and apply
    use of alum as a mordant  .
          acetite of alumine  .
          white oxide of tin  .
          red oxide of iron
          tan,  he.
    to determine the effects of various mor
       dants on colours
    to determine the effects of various waters
       on  colours
    to render colours holding  .
    chemical blue and green, for, to mak
    colours for, to discharge  .
    to discharge cinnamons, greys,  he. when
       dyed  too full
    materials, to purchase for  .
    to make solution of tin in aqua regia
    to make muriate of tin
    to prove the colours of dyed stuffs
    to prepare realgar for
Dye, to, woollen cloths and wool, blue
    to re-dye the colours of garments
    to alum silks
    to, silk  blue
    cotton and linen blue
    yellow
    to, woollens yellow       ,
    silks
    linens and cottons
    to fix a  mineral yellow on wool, silk,
      ton, hemp, &c.
    red
    woollens red, crimson and scarlet
    to carry the colour into the body of the
       cloth                    .        .      85 
436
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
Dye, silks red, crimson, he. to
     linens and cottons red, scarlet, See
     black
     to, woollens black
     silks
     cottons and linens
     wool, &c. brown
     compound colours
     different shades of green
     violet, purple and lilac
     olive, orange and cinnamon
     grey, drab and dark brown
     black upon cotton, linen and mixed goods
     olives, bottle-greens, purples, browns, cin-
      namons, or snuffs       .          .
     crimson, red, orange, or yellow
     cotton, wool, and silk, with Prussian Slue
     Raymond blue
     shades of colour, to graduate from Prus-
      sian blue
     to precipitate acetates of lead and copper
      on wool, silk, and cotton
     cotton cloth, black
     wool, a permanent blue colour
     to produce the Swiss red topical mordants
     silks and satins, brown, in the small way
     fawn colour drabs
     silk shawls, crimson
     silk, lilac
     thick silks, satins, silk stockings, &cc. a
      flesh colour
     silk stockings, black
     straw and  chip bonnets, blao-.k
     ditto bonnets, brown
     to remove the stain of light colours from
      the hands
     black cloth, green
     calico printing
     to apply the mordants
     stuffs for calico printing
     to, calico, yellow
     to, nankeen, yellow
     red, blue
    lilac, brown, green
     to mix the solution of tin with.indigo
     calico, dove colour and drab
          different colours
     to prepare a substitute for gum used in
      calico printing
Dyeing, calico, process of
     madder, colouring principle, to separate,
      new process for
     anatto for, to prepare
          use of    .        .
          to choose
     litmus for, to prepare     .
    bastard  saffron for        .
    utility of sheep's dung for
     woad for,  to prepare    .  .
     indigo for, to prepare
     carmine for,  do          .
     matter from potato-tops   .
     carpets
     hats, process of          .
     wood for, to prepare      .
     blue turnsole for
     miscellaneous receipts for
     to, red hair black
     hair, to change the colour  of
     bristles or feathers, green
         blue and red         •
     horse-hair       .        .
     gloves
     white gloves, purple
     gloves resembling Limerick
     bone and ivory,  red
         black, green
Dyeing, bone, purple, yellow, and blue	98
oak, a mahogany colour	93
ebony, black	ib
beech wood, a mahogany colour	ib
musical instruments, crimson	ib
purple	ib
box-Avood, brown	ib
wood, silver grey . , bright yellow . ,	ib
	ib
green . . <	ib
red .	ib
purple fine blue .	ib
	ib
paper, or parchment, yellow	ib
crimson, green . .	ib
orange, purple . ,	ib
horn, tortoise-shell colour	94
of different colours	ib
Dyspepsia	205
Dysentery . . .	206
Ducks, choice of	426
E. Ear, inflammation of the, remedies for .	202
accumulation of wax in the	ib
extraneous bodies in the, to extract .	234
Ear-ache, Indian cure for ,	397
Earths and ores containing gold, to assay	9
Eau de Barbade	144
sans pareil . .	151
divine . .	144
de bigarade .	146
de luce . .	250
de cologne . .	187
de melissv; des carmes	ib
de bouquet . . .	188
Economy, rural and domestic .	356
Edge-tools, from cast iron and steel	21
Eels, to pot	166
pie	169
Eggs, glare of . . .	53
and bacon, artificial . .	165
to j. reserve	360, 394
qualities of	403
Electrical machinery, cushions of, alloy for 11	
Elixir, Daffy's	252
Elephant's milk, to prepare	144
Embroidery, to clean .	100
Embrocation, for tooth-ache and rheumatism 413	
Emissions, involuntary	210
Enamelling, act of	71
the flux	73
Enamel, to, dial plates .	72
purple, used in mosaic .	ib
white, for porcelain . .	ib
for metals and fine work	ib
new, for porceiain	ib
red (rich), black, brown, blue, green,	
olive, purple, rose-coloured, yellow, 73 modes of application . . ib	
Enamels, opaque, to prepare	72
materials for	ib
coloured, cautions in making	74
general method of making	ib
black, with platina, to obtain	ib
called Niello, to make . .	ib
to paint in	ib
encaustic painting, compound for eolours 49	
Engrave, to, on stone	66
on wood . ; .	79
on copper . .	76
on chiar' oscuro . .	80
in aito relievo . . .	76
in mezzo tinto . .	79
in aqua tinta . .	ib
on precious stones . .	80
on steel	ib
 
INDEX.
437
Engraving
    different modes of
    to choose copper for
    etching
        materials
        to lay on the ground
        to trace the  outlines
        directions for
        to eat  in the work
        on glass
    tools, to whet and temper the graver
    to hold the graver
    to lay the design upon the plate
    Rembrandt's Avhite varnish for
    Callot's soft
    Salmon's        .
    Parisian         .
    Lawrence's      .
    Le Bosse's hard
    to blacken the varnish
    soft, to take off   .
    hard, do
    to prepare box-wood for
Engravings on glass, to transfer
Epilepsy
Erysipelas  .
    mercurial
Essence of cedrat     .
           lavender   .
           neroli     .
    to obtain
Essential oils, (see Oils)
Etch, to, upon glass
Ether, to make
Evil,  the king's
Exercise, advantages of
    riding and  walking
    after meals
    different kinds of
    standing and sitting
Eye waters
    lids, inflamed, remedy for
    sight, to preserve the
    inflammation of the
    sore, original receipt for

                       F.
Fainting fits
Fallow, to conduct a
    quantity of dung for
    time of spreading do
    intermediate dunging for
Famished persons, to restore
Fans, for cleaning corn
Fasting day's dish, to make
Farriery
    cattle, wounds in to cure
        adhesive plaster
        bandages
         sores and bruises
             ointment for
                 green
        treatment of
        food and regimen
        abscess
        bleeding in general
        distemper among
    cows, tar water  for
        garget in, to cure
        red  water in, to cure
        scouring in, to cure
        swelled with green food
        treatment of
        colds of every description in, to cure
        purging drink  for
         neat, to cure the jaundice  in
         inflammation of the brain
 75
 ib
 79
 75
 ib
 ib
' ib
 ib
 ib
 80
 76
 ib
 ib
 77
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 78
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 69
 213
 215
 ib
 148
 ib
  ib
 391
 ib
 80
 141
 212
 261
 ib
  ib
  ib
 ib
 235
 ib
 262
 201
 405
213
313
S19
 ib
 ib
407
317
169
264
 ib
265
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
275
265
 ib
264
274
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
275
278
 ib
279
 ib
Farriery
   cows, inflammation of brain, method of
        hoven, or blown in, to cure
        do cordial drink
        swimming in the head, to cure
        sudorific drink for
    horses, purgative ball for
        do drinks
        cough drink for
        anbury or wart
        staggers
        loss of appetite
        inflamed bladder
        blood spavin
        blistering ointment
        bone spavin
        bots
        worms, symptoms of
            remedies for
        inflammation of the bowels
        broken wind
            knees
        burns or scalds
        canker
            liniment for
        capped hocks
        cold
        convulsions
        cough      .
            ball for
        corns       .
        curb
        cracked heels
        the gripes
            draught for
        diabetes
            ball for
        eyes
            eye water
            film or cataract
        farcy
        grease
        Foundered, feet
        hoof bound
        lampas
        laxity
        inflammation of the lungs
        mallenders
        mange      .
        molten grease
        poll evil    .
        poultice     .
        quittor
        ring bone  .
        sand crack  .
            composition for
        sit-fasts
        sallenders  .
        strains
         strangury
        strangles    .
        thrush
        vives
        wind galls  .
        wounds     .
        bleeding
        fulness of blood
        laxative, he. powder
        purging     •
        to prepare for physio
        to check  «/ver purging
        cough drink
        purgative drink for
        fever ball for
        fevers, powerful mixture for
        inflammatory fever, drink for
266,
jaundice, purging ball for
2 .1/2 
438
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
Farriery
    horses, jaundice, restorative balls after   270
        broken wind, pectoral balls for        ib
        surfeit, mange, he. alterative  balls for  ib
        profuse slaleing, restorative balls for  ib
         astringent
         worms, mercurial balls for
         drink for
         purging ball for
         stomach drink after expulsion
         the staggers, balls for
         convulsions, clyster for
         gripes in, to cure
              further treatment
         surfeit, or bad coat in, to cure
         urine, balls for
         feet,  to cure diseases in
              preventim
         lameness in, remedy for
         thrush in the feet, to cure
         shoeing, in  wintei
         to prevent the  feet from balling wilh
           snow
         the mange, ointment for
              liniment for
         eye Avater for
         inflammation of the lungs
         sprains, embrocation for
            bracing mixture for
         bleeding, paste to stop
         scratched heels, ointment for
         greasy      do      do
         strains  in different parts
            embrocation for   .
         canker in the mouth, mixture fo
Feathers, to cleanse from animal  oil
    to dye, green, blue, red
Feet, to keep them dry
    cold, to prevent, at night   .
Females, cautions to, whose clothes catch
    diseases peculiar to
termentation by various means
    of yeast, to manage
    to accelerate
    to check a too rapid
    vinous          .          .
    spirituous
    of wine, to stop the       .
Fever, simple, inflammatory   .
    intermittent    .         ,
    remittent        .          .
    bilious
    typhus          .
    putrid          .         .
    hectic           .         .
    scarlet
    milk
    puerperal        .         .
Figs, dried, to improve         .
Filberts, to preserve           .
Filtering bag,  to make a
Fining of wines     .          .
    spirits
Finings, to make and apply
    of white wines and spirits, to force down
      the
Fires, recent, to extinguish
    to escape  from  .
    in distilleries, to extinguish
    to prevent and escape from
    to escape  from             .
    in steam-boats   .         .
    in theatres
    to extinguish in chimneys
                 effectually    ,
    in manufactories, security against
    •n hay stacks    .         .
 269
 270
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
 271
 272
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
 273
  ib

  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ih
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
398
 92
262
407
408
242
118
108
  ib
  ib
123
  ib
133
198
199
  ib
  ib
200
  ib
  ib
215
245
  ib
412
30C
137
423
143
136

  ib
395
  ib
140
  ib
395
400
401
408
  ib
409
  ib
 Fish, qualities of
 Fish bones, remedy on swallowing
     en matelotte, (see Cookery)
 Fistula
 Flatulency, remedy for
 Flax, to cultivate
     to prepare the ground for  .
     quantity of seed  for
     seed, to save the
     mode of watering
     dressing, Lee's invention for, &c. &c.
     new discovery for preparing
 Flies, to remove from rooms
     to prevent from settling on animals
 Flounders,  with cream
 Flour, paste, to make
     new seconds, bad, to improve
     to preserve
     moist, to correct
     chalk in,  to detect
     to restore and  improve
 Flowers, for distillation, to preserve
     to preserve
     to grow in winter
     to remove in summer
     bulbous, to hasten the blowing of
     faded, to restore
     to dry           .
     to paint in water colours  .
 Flower, sun, to cultivate
     to economize the
     seeds, to preserve
 Flute key valves, alloy for
 Flux
     remedy for      .         .
     metallic composition of
     crude or white, black
     Cornish, reducing
             refining
 Foils, to prepare
     copper, for
     to whiten
     for,  crystals, pebbles,  &c. to  give the
      lustre of diamonds
     to ci ■lour
     liquid for silvering glass globes
 Food, animal and vegetable, to preserve
     animal  and vegetable
        qualities of  .
 Fowls, treatment of  .
     qualities of
     choice of        ,         .
     game fashion
     wild
     do lo catch     .         .
Fractures, of the nose, jaw, collar bone, arm,
      fore-arm, wrist, ribs, thigh, leg, knee-
      pan, foot       .         .       223—2
Freezing mixture     .
 Fresco, to paint in    .
Friction
Frost-bitten parts, treatment of
F'ruits, time for  gathering
     orchard, to gather
     green, to  preserve
     ripe    .
     various  sorts of  .
     to store
     to preserve in brandy
     for carriage, to pack
     to paint, in water colours  .
Frumenty, to make
Fuel, cheap, to make
Fulling cloths, woollens, &c.
 Fuller's purifier, he. (see  Bleaching)
 Furnace, portable, to use a
     fixed, to build  a 
INDEX.
439
Furnace, sand-heat,  to make a
Furniture, varnished, to polish
    paste, to make
    oil
    to clean          .
Furs, to preserve     .
Gall stones, to remove
Gallipot varnish, to make
    mastic, for grinding colours
Ganglion
Gardeners, practical directions to
Gardens, to water
    to choose the best soil for  .
    to prepare hot beds,  composts and
      nures for      .         .
    to form dung beds for
    to make composts for manure
    mould
    plants           .
    to prepare composts for
Gas, to make, from coal tar
General rules  for preserving health
    Sir R. Phillips's rules
    Dr Boerhaave's do
ma-
    air     .
    clothing
    ventilation of churches
        of houses   .
    burying in churches       .
    fumigation
    noxious vapours
    to dissipate do in wells
  ■ to protect artisans from effects  of ch
      coal
    to prevent ill effects from lamps
    to disinfect articles from the plague
    to protect gilders from mercury
Geneva, English, to make
Gentian water, compound
Gild glass and porcelain, to
    leather, to       .
    writings, drawings, &c. on parchment
    edges of paper, to
    silk, satin, ivory, &c. by hydrogen gas
    on wood, with oil, to      .
    by burnishing, to
    copper, &c. by amalgam, to
    steel, to         •
    copper, so as to be rolled out into sheets
    in colours, to
    iron, or steel, with a solution of gold
    by dissolving gold in aqua regia, to
    bv amalgamation, to
urilding    .         •
    gold powders for          •
    Grecian          •         •
    mordant varnish for
    metal            •         •
        for common jewellery
Gin, to prepare, as in Holland  .
    rectification, in  Holland
Ginger beer, to make
    powders         •
    drops            •
    bread, plain      •         •     *'«»
    to candy         •
Glass and porcelain, to paint and stain
    to cement       •         •
    to draw on       •
    globes, liquid foils for silvering
    to ornamenl, in imitation of engraving
    to break, in any required way
    to varnish
    to etch upon     •         •
    simple method, as applied to thermometers ib
139
 31
 ib
 ib
389
387
406
 27
 ib
219
310
291
284
     285
      ib
      ib
      ib
     286
      ib
     391
     260
      ib
      ib
      ib
      ib
      ib
      ib
     261
     241
261, 407
     261

      ib
      ib
      ib
      ib
     143
     153
      14
      15
      ib
      ib
      ib
      ib
      ib
      16
      ib
      ib
      17
      ib
      ib
      ib
      14
      16
      17
     12
     ib
     142
     ib
     156
     392
     182
413, he.
     181
     68
     105
     69
     11
     375
     376
     33
     80
Glass jars, to make them resemble China     395
    to manufacture   .        .             376
    for looking-glass plates    .        .     377
    crown or best window     .        .      ib
    cheaper kind of ditto      .        .      ib
    common or green window  .        .      ib
    best phial        .        .        .      ib
    common do       .        .        .      ib
    green, or bottle  .                 .      ib
        with scoria   .        .        .      ib
    the most perfect|flint      .        .      ib
    cheaper composition of    .        .      ib
    best German crystal       .        .      ib
    to anneal                 .              ib
    to polish and grind        .        .      ib
    to make frit for          .        .      ib
    to bring pearl ashes to the highest degree
       of purity       .         .        .    379
    to purify pearl ashes for the muiufacture
       of mirrors     .        .        .      ib
    and pastes to imitate precious stones      ib
    best and hardest for receiving colour      ib
        softer       .        .              ib
    soft, for receiving colours  .              ib
    hard, of a full blue colour          .     ib
    paste, of do     .         .        .    380
    hard, resembling the sapphire      .     ib
    cheaper do       .                       ib
    paste, resembling the sapphire     .     ib
    hard do, by means of smalt         .     ib
    hard, resembling eagle marine      .     ib
    paste for do               .              ib
    hard, of a gold yellow colour       .     ib
    paste for  do                            ib
    hard, resembling the topaz         .     ib
    paste do                                ib
    resembling  the chrysolite  .        .     ib
    paste do        .         .              ib
    hard, resembling the emerald      .     ib
    paste do         .         .              ib
    hard, of a deep purple colour      .     ib
    paste do         .         •              ib
    hard, resembling the amethyst     .     ib
    paste, do        .         .              ib
        resembling the diamond       .     ib
    hard, perfectly black       .        .     ib
    paste do                               381
    white opake     .         .              ib
     paste of an opake whiteness         .     ib
    of do, formed by arsenic   .        .     ib
    hard, or  paste, formed  by calx of tin  or
       antimony     .         .              ib
     semi-transparent white, and paste resem-
       bling the opal          .         .      ib
    fina red, resembling the ruby        .     ib
     paste do         .         .              ib
    cheaper do                .              ib
    hard, resembling the  garnet         -      ib
    paste do                                ib
    hard, resembling the vinegar garnet .      ib
     paste do         .         .              ib
    fictitious  or counterfeit lapis lazuli  .      ib
     resembling red cornelian  .         .    382
     paste do                                ib
     hard, resembling white cornelian    .     ib
     paste do         .         .         .     ib
     hard, or paste, resembling the turquoise
       stone         .         *      -   .      ib
     brown  Venetian, with gold spangles      ib
 Glands, inflamed     .        .         .    212
 Glasses, optical, to polish      .             379
 Glaziers, cautions to          .         .    242
 Glazings for earthen  ware, &c. (see Pottery) 372
 Gleet       .        .        .             210
 Gloves, to tan skins iu white for             £82
     to cleanse,  Avithout wetting         .    10C
     to dye, different colours             .     92 
440
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
211,
 Gloves, to wash gentlemen's
 Glue, portable, to make
     to resist moisture
     parchment      .
     strong compound         .
     isinglass        .        ,
     Laplander's
 Goat's flesh, qualities of
     skins in oil, to prepare
 Godfrey's cordial  for children  .
 Goitre
 •Sold, ores and earths to assay  .
     mixed with pyrites, humid assay of
     solder, to prepare
     with platinum, useful alloy of
     ring, to prepare
     from 35s. to 40*. per oz.
     Manheim or similor
     chemical test  for
     powders, for gilding, to prepare
     to dissolve in  aqua regia   .
     amalgam of, in the large way
     yellow, to heighten the colour of
     green, do
     red,  do
     to separate from gilt copper and silver
     cordial, to  make
     liquid, for vellum painting
     or silver, ground for
     lace, to clean     .         .
 Goose, choice of      .         .
 Gout,  remedies for
     rheumatic
     Chelsea pensioner's remedy for
     cordial, to make
     Portland powder for
     lotion
     Pradier's cataplasm for
 Gonorrhoea           .         .
 Gooseberries, qualities of
     to preserve
 Gooseberry cheese, green, to mak-
 Grain, to preserve from vermin
     to sow, by ribbing
     damaged, to correct
 Grass, cut for hay, to manage  .
 Graft, trees, to
Grafting materials, clay to prepare,  whip,
       cleft,  crown,  saddle,  side,  shoulder,
      root          .        .        288,
    coffee tree        .        .
    luting for         .        •
Grape  house, mode of storing a
Grapes, to mature
    to prevent their dropping off
     to retard their sap
    to protect from wasps      .
    to preserve       .         .
Gravel walks, to make
    treatment of the
    remedies for the
Gravy  cakes          .        •        176,
Grease spots, (see Scouring, &c.) to remove
Green  house, to make a
Grind-stones, to make
Grottoes, to embellish        .
    coral for, artificial        .
Gruel, water, to make
Gum elastic, to dissolve
    benzoin, oil of, to obtain
 Gun barrels, to brown
     powder, to make
     metal

                     H.
 Hair, honey water for the
     red, to dye black
 391
 385
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
 412
 402
 282
 252
 213
   9
  ib
  13
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
 392
  16
  17
  ib
  18
  ib
  fb
  ib
 146
  53
  ib
 388
 426
 240
 401
 240
  ib
  ib
 212
  ib
 210
404
 187
 172
337
326
361
340
288
289
298
418
296
297
  ib
  ib
298
310
284
208
406
415
412
286
396
395
  ib
254
 33
149
 31
392
  12
188
 92
 Hair, colour of, to change the
     horse, to dye
     powders
     for wigs, to prepare
 Hams,  mutton       .
     to  salt
     pie, raised
     qualities of
 Hangings, to restore .
 Harrowing, best method of
 Harrows, to construct
 Hartshorn jelly, to make
 Hats, to dye
     to  preserve
 Hay making, best mode of
     Yorkshire way of
     cut grass for
     stacks, to save from fire
 Head-ache, to relieve
     in  bed
 Health, preservation of
     exercise, riding and  walking,  exercise
      after  meals,  kinds thereof,  reading,
      wind instruments, friction, getting wet,
      precautions in removing from a hot to a
      cold situation, to keep the feet dry,  to
      prevent cold feet at night          261,
     to prevent the effects  of drinking cold li-
      quors when heated, to remedy the effects
      of dram drinking, to procure sleep, the
      air bath
     to preserve the  eye sight, use of specta-
      cles           .        .         262,
    cosmetics
    the teeth, picking the teeth,  tooth pow-
      ders, loose teeth, foul teeth, cleansing
      the  teeth,  to clean  and  preserve the
      teeth, diseases of the teeth,        263,
     warts
    to prevent corns  .
Heartburn, remedies for      .         205,
Heat, excessive, or strokes of the sun, to guard
      against
Heating, to preserve animal and vegetable sub-
      stances by, in well closed vessels
Hedges, thorn, to plant
    young, to protect
Hedge-hog, usefulness of the
Hemp,  to cultivate
    to prepare the ground for
    quantity of seed, &c. for
    method of sowing
    after culture
    process of grassing
    to fix  a mineral yellow on
Herrings,  to use economically
    to cure
Herpes
Hiccup, to remove the
Hides, or skins, to tan
Hip-joint disease     .
Hops, to cultivate
    the  soil, &c. for  .
    to plant
    to choose        .
    seasons for planting
    to form a new plantation of
    ground, to take up
    extra works for .
    manure for the culture of
    to pick, dry, bag, dress, pole, tie, gather
    gentian root, substitute for
Honey water for the hair
    to manage
    to take, without destroying the bees
    to clarify
Horehound, candied to make
  ib
  94
 192
 395
 397
 186
 168
 402
 101
 315
  ib
 183
 91
 391
 344
 ib
 ib
409
201
408
260
262
408
263
263
264
234
  ib
239

213

394
349
  ib
337
339
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  84
172
359
216
205
280
212
341
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
342
  ib
  ib
  ib
343
394
152
366
  ib
186
IV 
INDEX.
riorn, to dye, various colours
Horses, diseases of, (see Farriery)
    rules for feeding with straw
    sore backs of, to cure      .
    infallible lotion for bruises in
    sick, to make drink
    to bring out of a stable on fire
  ot beds    .        .        .
    house, plants in  .
  orticulture         .
  ortus siccus
  ooping cough,  remedies for   .
    regimen, he.   .        .
Hunger and thirst—-to restore famished persons
    cautions respecting        .
Hungary waters     .         .
husbandry
    implements of  .         .
Hydrophobia        .        .
    guaco, in       .        ,
Hydrometer, Fahrenheit's
Hysteric fits
 94
264
346
415
 ib
417
391
 28
291
284
387
249
 ib
407
 ib
152
311
314
222
398
384
242
Ice, to make         .         .
    from a powder, to procure
    cream, to make
    house, portable, to make a
    for culinary purposes, to produce
Impotency           .         .
Inclosures, to form
Indian shields, to prepare varnish for
Indigo, for dyeing, to prepare  .
Inflammation, inordinate, to diminish
    various remedies tor
    in the bowels, remedy for  .
Inflammatory diseases, treatment of
Injuries, external, treatment of
Indigestion and debility, treatment of
    Gentian wine
    chalybeate
    stomachic
    powerful tonic
         for debility of  the stomach
    stomachic aperient  pills
    tonic draught, in cases of great debility
    Dr Bailey's prescription for
    Dr Abernethy's  .         .
    Dr Babington's   .
    to remove, he. after eating
    to remedy flatulency
    nightmare, remedies for
    hiccup           .         .
    digestive pills    .         .
    to improve digestion
    to restore the appetite
    aloetic and assafcetida pills
    heartburn
Insects, stings and bites        .
Instruments, musical, to stain  .
Interment, premature
Inks, &c.
    common Black   .         .
    shining          .         •
    the best
    indelible, without galls
    indestructible, for resisting the action
       corrosives     .         .
    powder, the best
         for immediate use
    a  fine  black, for common use and the
       copying press
    lithographic     •         •
    exchequer, to make       .
    red
       from vermilion
       3  F
360
 ib
183
359
 ib
211
349
 35
 91
231
 ib
206
197
221
205
238
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
397
 ib
238
 ib
205
239
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
222
 93
406
/93
 ib
194
 ib
 ib

 ib
 ib
 ib

193
 67
194
 ib
 ib
                            '-••*-„„      441

Ink, red, permanent  .        •        •    195
    green, writing, to make   .        •     ib
    yellow          .         .        .     ib
    blue            .        .              ib
    copperplate printer's      .        .     ib
    printer's        .         .              ib
    fine black printing        .        .     ib
    best  do         .        .        .     ib
    good common do         .        .     ib
    printer's red     .         .              ib
             blue    .        .              ib
    perpetual, for writing on tombs, he.      ib
    Indian, to make          .        .196
        substitute for         .        .     ib
    for printing linen with types        .    393
    permanent, for marking linen       .    196
    sympathetic     .         .        196, 405
    nitro-inuriates of gold and tin      .    196
    gallate of iron   .        .        .     ib
    nitro-muriate of cobalt    .        .     ib
    sympathetic,  various      .        .     ib
    to prevent from freezing  .        .     ib
    to prevent mould in               .     ib
    to take out spots of       .        .    197
    to make new  writing seem old      .     ib
    to write on greasy paper or parchment     ib
    to restore decayed writings         .     in
    to take impressions from recent manuscripts ib
    to produce  a fac-simile of writing   .     ib
    substitute for copying machines     .     ib
    to copy writings          .        .     ib
    to take out writing        .        .    101
Intestines, inflammation  of    .        .    206
Iron ores, to assay   .        .        .6
    humid assay of  .         .              ib
    to plate         .        .        .18
    vessels, to tin    .         .              ib
    ore,  to reduce into malleable        .     20
    to shingle and manufacture, new way      ib
    to weld, approved method          .     ib
    common hardening of                    ib
    polished, to preserve from rust     .    387
    case hardening of         .        .20
    to convert into steel by cementation .     ib
    cast, way of softening     .        .    399
Isinglass jelly, to make        .        .    254
Itch, ointment for             .        216, 234
Ivory, to gild        .        .        .15
    to polish and  soften       .        .     32
    and bone black, to make  .        .     36
    to paint on               .        .60
    for miniatures, lo prepare .        .     ib
        to cut and paste      .        .     61
    to sketch portraits on              .60
    to dye various colours     .        .     92
    mode of silvering         .        .     93
                      J.
Jam, raspberry, to make
     strawberry     .
Japan black         .
Jasmin, essence de, to make
Jaundice, remedies for
Jaw, locked
Jessamine water, to prepare
Jellies, (see Confectionary)
Jelly, isinglass
    hartshorn, currant, he. he.
    calves-foot
    ivory
    strawberry
Jumbles
Juniper, compound spirit of
Jujubes, pate de      .
Joints, cartilage in   .
    wounds of       .
     184
      ib
      39
     188
     205
     214
     151
     183
     2£4
183, 184
     413
     249
     184
     413
     153
     184
     212
     223 
442
K.
Kail, sea, to cultivate
Kid  skin, to prepare
Kidneys, an vin
     inflammation of the
Knee-joint, dropsy of
Knives and forks, to clean
Krumholtz oil, to procure
Kustitien's metal for tinning
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK
305
282
165
208
212
388
149
 13
Lace, to wash       .        .
    veils, Avhite, to clean
        black, do
    point, to clean and sta"ch .
    gold and embroidery, to clean
Lamb, qualities of
    choice of
Lamps, to prevent being pernicious to asth
       tic persons
    to trim and clean
    to prevent smoking
Land, arable, management of
    seven rotations of crops
    to apply manures to
    pismires on grass, to prevent increase of
    lo destroy slugs on
Lands, clay, to underdrain
    to drain         .
    pit draining
    Bailey's directions for draining
    to construct main drains  for
    to fill drains for
Landscapes, rules for painting in water colours
    to prepare
    to sr'ect the colours for
Lamp black,  to make paints from
Lead ores, to assay
    in the humid way
    Chinese sheet, to prepare  .
    red,  to make
    sub-acetate of   .        .
Leaden-tree, to prepare the
Lacker for brass, to prepare
    philosophical instruments
    gold coloured, for brass watch cases, he.
    of a less drying quality
Lackers of various tints, to make
Lavender, oil of, (foreign) to obtain
    spirit
    water, to prepare
        second order
        for immediate use
        perfumed
LaAvns, to wash and starch
Leather,  to gild
    to render water proof
    chairs, to restore the  blackness of
    sheep, to prepare, by dyeing
    morocco to manufacture real
    t-j convert old parchment into
    to preserve from mould
    to curry-
    morocco and sherp, to dye
    in imitation of morocco, to manufacture
       from South American  horse hides
    Russia, to manufacture
Leeches, application of
Lemonade, portable .        •
Lemon cordial, to make
    juice, preservation of
    peel, to candy
    water, to prepare
Leprosy, lotion for
Leprous affections of the skin, to cure
Letters, to disinfect, of the plague
Ley, saponaceous, for Avashmg
   97
    ib
    ib
    ib
  388
  402
  426

  261
  389
  395
  325
    ib
  319
  336
  337
  347
  348
    ib
    ib
    ib
    ib
   56
    ib
    ib
   36
     6
    ib
   18
   40
  392
   18
   27
    ib
    ib
    ib
   28
  148
  153
    ib
    ib
    ib
    ib
   97
   15
30, 31
   32
  281
    ib
  283
  £84
    ib
    ib

  282
    ib
  231
  157
  148
  399
  181
  153
  233
    ib
  261
    97
1 Life boat, description of the	257
safe, and readily constructed	251
general rules for preserving	26C
! Light, to produce instantaneous	392
Lightning, to guard against	406
Lime, to burn, without kilns	323
juice, to preserve	399
Linen, to render water proof .	29,41
cloth for screens, he. to thicken	29
to remove iron moulds from	99
mildew On, to take out	100
to bleach	95
and cotton, to dye, blue, yellow, red, s	car-
let, and black	84,85
washing and cleaning	396
Liniment, compound soap	250
of ammonia	ib
Lip salve, rose and white, to make	190
Liqueurs, to make	144
anisette de Bourdeaux	ib
creme de Baifeadoes, real	ib
noyeau de Martinique	145
d'orange of superior flavour .	ib
eau de Barbades	144
divine	ib
elephant's milk	ib
, huile de Venus .	145
liquedilla	ib
marasquin de groseilles	ib
(French) a new liqueur	ib
ratafia de angelique	144
de cafe	ib
cassia	ib
cerises . . .	ib
chocolat	ib
grenoble . •	145
noix(brou) . .	ib
noyeau . . .	ib
d'oranges (ecorces) . . (fleurs)	ib
	ib
a la violette	146
usquebaugh . . ,	145
Liquid paste, with drying oil, to make	29
Liquors, cold, to prevent bad effects of	408
Liquorice lozenges, to make	182
extract of, to make	ib
juice of, to prepare	ib
refined, to prepare	183
Lithography	66
to print designs with porcelain plates	67
to apply it to wood engraving	ib
to take impressions on paper from	de- .
signs made on stone	ib
Lithographic pencils, to make	ib
stone, cheap substilute for	ib
ink, Thenard and Blainville's	ib
Litter, straw, as applicable to	346
Litmus, for dyeing, to prepare	90
Liver, inflammation of the	205
Looking glasses, to plate .	377
he. to clean	390
Lobstf-rs and crabs, to pot	165
to choose . .	4'2G
Looseness, to check . .	207
Lovage cordial, to make	146
Lozenges, liquorice . .	182
black pectoral .	253
Lumbago	239
Lutes, to make	104
Luting, for grafting . .	418
M.	
Maccaroni, to make a dish of	175
Macaroons, different kinds .	179, 419
Magnesia, liquid	157
Madder, to cultivate	343
use of . ■	344
 
INDEX.
443
soiling
Mahogany, to take stains out of
Malt, to make
    to grind
    to determine qualities bf
    to brew four bushels of
    liquor, thick, sour, to recover
    to vamp
    foxing in, to prevent and cure
    to protect from electricity
    to bottle
Manganese ore, to assay
    humid assay of
Manheim gold, to prepare
Manures
    to prepare
    to manage dung upon light lands
                          heavy lands
    to spread dung   .
    application of, to turnips
         to potatoes   .
    to clayey soils
    quantity of dung for fallow
    time of spreading dung
    intermediate dunging
    to increase the quantity by
    composts for, to make
         Lord Meadowbank's
    to convert moss into
    use of lime as
    application of marl
         shelly land
         clayey and stone marls
         alga marina or sea weed
     burning the surface for
         Mr Curwen's mode
     to burn moss with  the asnes
     use of peat and peat ashes
         coal ashes
     to decompose green vegetables for
     use of bone              •
         moss
     various substances used as
     use of plaster of Paris
     to apply  blubber as
     application of, to  land
 Manuscripts, renovation of
 Maps, wash, colours for
 Maple, sugar, juice of, to extract,without
       juring the tree
 Marble, to, the edges of paper
     covers of books
     to clean
     to colour
     to stain, red, or yellow
     to give, a blue colour      .
     to prepare brimstone in imitation of
 Matting, gold
 Marine spencer, description of
 Marmalade,  (see Confectionary)
 Mastich, Greek, or maltha
 Meadows, to water
 Measles
 Measure of fluids
 Measuring glasses, for do
 Meats, he. lo boil
     to bake
     to roajt
     to boil
     to fry
     to  salt
     to pickle        •
     to preserve without salt
     to choose        •
 Medicines, useful,  domestic
     almond  milk, to prepare
     ammonia, pure Avater of
          acetated
101 I  Medicines, useful, domestic
106       balsam of Riga  .
107       Godbold's vegetable
 ib       of honey        .        .
Ill |      beef f°a, to make
115 j      camphor mixture, to prepare
 ib |      chalk do
116       cerate, Turner's
117           of Spanish flies
120       co.dial,  Godfrey's
  7       drop, the black  .
 ib       draught, saline
 13           extemporaneous effervescing
317       eau-de-luce
 ib       elixir, Daffy's
 ib       gruel, water, to prepare
 ib       isinglass jelly, he.
318       liniment of ammonia
 ib           compound soap
 ib       lozenges, black pectoral
319           white pectoral
 ib       ointment, simple
 ib           of hog's lard
 ib           basilicon and yellow resinous
320           mercurial
 ib       opodeldoc, cajeput
 ib       panada, to make
321       pills, aloetic and myrrh   .
 ib                 compound
 ib            assafatida          .
 ib            Plum'mer's
 ib       plaster, adhesive
322           court
 ib           labdanum, compound .
 ib           pitch, Burgundy
 ib       powders, aloetic,  with iron
323           Dover's sudorific
 ib            Seidlitz
 ib       salve, lip, to make
324       sarsaparilla, dedoction of
 ib            compound   .        .
 ib       soup, for convalescents, transparent
 ib       squills,  oxymel of
  ib       syrup of ginger
325                poppies
394               squills
 53               violets
          tar water
417      tincture of benzoin, compound
 94           catechu
  ib           ginger
100           guaiacum
 70               ammoniated
  ib           Peruvian  bark
  ib              Huxham's
  ib           compound
  16           senna
 257           balsam of Tolu
 183  Medicines,  purgative, (see Purgative)
 103  i    for worms,  (see Worms) .
 343  I Medlars, to preserve
 ?15  i Melons, irregular growth, to prevent
 264  i    to  preserve
  ib  ' Menses, the
 163  Mercurial ores,  to assay
  ib      sulphuretted
 164  Mercurial disease
  ib  Mercury, to protect gilders from the  injurious
  ib         effects of
 398  Metallurgy
 399      ores, assaying of
 417           roasting
 424           fluxes for
 250           Cornish, reducing flux for
 160                   refining
 253           humid  asd-ay of
  ib      casts from copper engravings 
444
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
gun
Kui
Metallurgy
    injection         .         .        .11
        for cushions of electrical machinery   ib
        for varnishing figures          .      ib
    watering or for blanc moire        .      18
    metallographical  application of  fusible
      alloys         .         .        .11
Metals, compound or alloys            .      9
    metal, Hath, to prepare    .        .11
        brass        .         .        .      ib
             solder for iron    .        .      13
        bell, to prepare       .        .      12
        bronze      .         .        .      ib
        copper, blanched      .        .      ib
        yelloAv dipping        .        .      ib
        fusible alloys         .        .      10
        gilding      .         .        .12
             for common jewellery     .      ib
          in, to prepare       .        .      ib
         kustitien's, for tinning        .      13
        liquid  foils for glass globes     .      11
        pewter, common       .        .10
             best     .         .        .      ib
             hard     .         .        .      ib
        plated, to assay        .        .      18
        platina, mock         .        .      12
        queen's      .         .        .9
        silver, imitation of             .12
             solder for jewellers       .      13
             plating           .         .      ib
        solder, common       .        .      10
             hard     .         .        .      ib
             soft     .         .               ib
             for steel joints    .        .      13
        specula of telescopes  .         .12
        tombac      .         .         .10
             red      .         .               ib
             white   .         .               ib
        tutania, or Britannia   .         .      12
             German          .         .      ib
             Spanish           .        .      ib
             Engestroom       .         .      13
        tutenag               .         .      ib
        type        .         .        .      ib
        white        .         .         .10
        gold, (ring)  .         .         .13
             from 35s. to 40*. per oz.   .      ib
        to clean all sorts of    .         .    100
Mezzotint, to engrave in       .         .79
Mildew in wheat     .         .        .    328
    to remove        .         .        .      ib
    to prevent        .         .        .      ib
Milk, qualities of              .        .    402
    and cream, substitutes for          .    360
    and butter, to free from the turnip flavour   ib
    to preserve     .         .        .    SS3
Miniature painting  .         .        .60
    different articles used in                   ib
    choice of brushes         .        .      ib
Miniatures,  ivory for, to prepare        .      ib
    manner of  sketching               .      ib
    colours to be employed in          .      ib
        in sketching a female head     .      ib
    use and advantage of body  colours  .      1
    to cut and paste the ivory for        .      ib
    to sketch portraits         .        .      ib
    use of magnifying glass    .        .      62
    to execute  light hair for    .        .      ib
    to represent velvets and satins      .      ib
        white feathers         .        .      ib
    to gild in body colours     .        .      6S
    linen, lace  and gauze       .        .      ib
    pearls on the flesh         .        •      ib
    colours  used in sketching from nature      ib
    to adjust the drapery       .        .      64
    to execute the back ground         .      ib
    primitive colours and combinations         ib
Miniatures
    discovery of new substances
    to lay body colours on the palette
Mint, oil of,  to procure
Miscellaneous receipts, medicinal
Morocco, real, to manufacture
    red, to prepare
    imitation of
    to dye
Mosaic gold
    to manufacture
Moths, to drive away
Mortars, to prepare
    impenetrable
Mortification
Mosquetoes,  bites of
Moss,  as manure
Mucilaginous oils
Muffins, to make
Mum,  to make
Mushrooms,  to produce
    to pickle
Musical instruments, to stain
Mussels, qualities of
Mustard, to cultivate
Mutton, qualities of
    shoulder of      .
    choice of        .
    to carve
Myrtle water, to distil


                     . *■*•
Napoleon's pectoral  pills
Nectar to make
    Editor's
Needham's portable  machine, to brew by
Neroli, essence of, to procure   .
Nettle-rash           .         .
Nickel ore, to assay            .
    in the humid way
Nightmare,  remedies for
    cautions respecting
Nitre,  strong spirit of
    colourless        .
Noyeau, to make
Nutmegs, oil of, to procure
 64
 G5
148
231
281
280
282
284
  9
 14
337
103
 ib
230
222
324
160
178
160
302
185
 93
403
359
402
165
426
419
151
     236
     146
     122
     113
     148
     217
       7
      ib
     238
238, 400
     156
      ib
     147
     148
                       O.
Oaks, to raise, the best method          .    350
    lo dye, a mahogany colour          .     93
           ebony black                .      ib
Oats, qualities of              .         .    403
    varieties of               .             331
    to prepare the ground for  .         .      ib
    quantity of seed for       .         .      ib
    to harvest        .         .               ib
    for horses, to make them prove doubly
      nutritious
    bruised
Odours, unpleasant, to remove
Oil and water colours, (see Colours)
Oils, essential, Sec.
    oil of anise-seed, to obtain
caraway
birch
cajeput
camomile
cassia
cinnamon
cloves
gum benzoin
hartshorn rectified
Krumholz
lavender, foreign
mint
nutmegs
356
418
387
 35
148
 ib
 ib
149
148
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
149
 ib
 ib
148
 ib
 ib 
INDEX.
445
sub-
Oils, essential, he.
     oil of peppermint
           penny-royal
           pimento
           rhodium
           rosemary
           rue        .
           sassafras   .
           tar        •
           thyme     .
           turpentine
               rectified
           wine      •
           wormwood
     and mucilages
     oil gilding on wood
       of  linseed, to mix the  mineral
           stances in
       poppy, to give it a drying quality
       siccitive
       fat
        furniture, to make
        resinous, drying
       for watch-work,  &c. to prepare
 Oils, mucilaginous, he.
      oil of sweet almonds, to make
           beech-nut
           hazel-nut
           mace     .         .
               by expression  .
        from grape stones, to extract
        of olives, salad, or sweet
        castor       »
        do mixture
        croton       •
        rape         •
        do to purify  .
        vegetable, to purify
        pumpkin, to make
 Oils, animal, and fats, he.
     hog's lard       .
     oil, trotter or neat's foot
             to purify
         from yolks of eggs
         spermaceti, to refine
         Greenland whale and seal, to refine
         to extract from stone or marble
         out of boards
         fish, to purify, and apply the refuse
           to useful purposes   .
         for making hard soap, to prepare
 Ointment, simple, to prepare
     of hog's lard
     yellc  v, resinous
     mercurial       •
 Olu, to make an    .
 Omelette, military,  to make a
     onion          •
     French         •
     souffle          •
 Onions, to cultivate  •
     Portuguese way of
     to obtain a good crop of
     qualities of      •
     to pickle         •
 Or molu             •
 Orange cordial, to make
     marmalade       •
     flower water
            drops     •
            paste for hands
     to candy         •
     to preserve      •
 Orchards, to manage
 Orgeat paste, to make
 Oxalic acid, to detect
 Oxymel of squills
148
 ib
 ib
 ib
149
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
142
149
160
 15
    48
    22
    40
    22
    31
    23
32, 397
   160
     ib
   161
   160
     ib
     ib
   161
   160
     ib
   206
   161
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
    162
     ib
    391
     ib

    162
    163
    251
     ib
     ib
     ib
    166
    169
     ib
     ib
    1S4
    303
    304
     ib
    404
    184
      9
    147
    183
    151
    182
    189
    181
    187
    293
    184
    408
    253
Oyster powder, to make
Oysters, qualities of
    to stew          •
    roasted, fine     •
137
403
167
 ib
Painter's cream, to make
Paint, to, sail-cloth water-proof
    on silks, satins, he.
    in enamel       .
    in varnish, on wood
    white distemper          .
    light grey and do         .
    fresco          •        •
    fire places and hearths
    to stain glass and porcelain
    improved method
    colours, proper to be used for do
    manner of using them
    colour for grounds on glass
    lake, to prepare for do
    blue, purple, green
    yellow and white
    engraving on glass, to transfer
    metallic calces and precipitates of gold
       to prepare
    oxide of cobalt  .
    zaffre           •
    purple precipitate of Cassius
    coloured drawings on glass
    glass black
          blue, carnation
          green, gold colour
    black, to make   .
    from lamp black, to make .
          pit coal     .         .
          wine lees   .         •
    white        _  •         •
     economical white, house   .
      Searl grey
      axen grey      .
     Prussian blue    •
     beautiful green   .
 Painting, house      .
    drier for        .
    encaustic, compound  for receiving the co-
           lours
         on wax, Grecian  method
     vellum, liquid gold for     .
                   silver  for    .
     in crayons
         implements .
         drawing the outlines
         from life
         posture and light
         features of the face
         the neck
          draperies, he.         .
         to prepare coloured crayons, Sic.
         arrangement of do
     ivory and miniature,  (see  Miniature)
     velvet
         materials required     .
          subjects for .         .
          appropriate colours
          compound   .         .
          directions for         .
 Palsy, treatment of
 Panada
 Paper, to gild the edges cf     .
     black  do    do
     to dye various colours      .
     to render fire proof
     to remove spots of grease from
     hangings, to clean
               to colour
     to resist moisture
                                     2 N 
446
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
Paper, for draughtsmen	418
Papier mache, to make	32
Parchment, old, to convert into leather .	283
to make . . ,	ib
to dye, various colours	93
Parsley, qualities of	404
Parsnips, do	ib
mode of cultivating in Guernsey	338
Parting, process of . , ,	19
by aqua-fortis	ib
by cementation . .	ib
dry . . . ,	20
Partridge, aux ch^ux	167
Paste, liq-.id, to make . •,	29
Chinese, to make .	385
flour	ib
Waid's, for the piles	234
furniture	31
puff	172
short	ib
for tarts, he. . .	ib
Pastry, he. . . ,	177
qualities of .	403
cakes, good, rich, plum . .	177
good plain . .	ib
iceing for	ib
rich seed . . ,	ib
plain, pound .	ft
ratafia . . .	^
wiggs . ,	ib
Bath	ib
wedding . .	414
election . .	ib
bhu-k	ib
. to keep for a year	415
sponge . .	ib
jsugar	ib
' «up .	ib
cider . .	ib
federal .	ib
Albany .	ib
Shrewsbury	177, 413
Portugal	177
ginger, without butter	177, 413
Savoy	177
pound-cake gingerbread	413
gingerbread	ib
short .	ib
saffron . .	178
queen . .	ib
rice	ib
lemon .	178, 415
bmbury , .	177
almond .	177, 413
cream . .	178
cheese, fine .	180
almond	ib
bread . .	ib
rice . .	ib
apple . .	ib
gingerbread, plain	178
crumpets	ib
muffins	ib
buns, common	179
cross . .	ib
rusks . . •	ib
custards, orange	ib
baked .	ib
rice . •	ib
almond	ib
lemon •	ib
tarts, almond . •	ib
orange . •	. ib
orange puffs .	. b
English macaroons •	ib
biscuit, fancy .	ib
sponge .	180
Pastry, he.
    blanc mange      .
        clear        .        .
Pastes to imitate precious stones
Paste for receiving colours
    of a blue colour
    resembling the sapphire
              eagle marine
    for a gold or yellow colour
    resembling the topaz
                  chrysolite
                  emerald
    for a deep purple colour
    resembling the amethyst
                  diamond
    for a perfect black
    of an opake whiteness
    hard, formed by calx of tin or antimony
    resembling the opal
                  ruby
                  ruby, a  cheaper
                  garnet
                  vinegar gurnet
                  fictitious iapis lazuli
                  red cornelian
                  white cornelian
                  turquoise
Peach, qualities of
    trees, to preserve
Pears, to preserve
    to keep, for market
    qualities of
Pearl ashes, to make a lixivium of
    powder for the face
    bismuth do
    water for the face
Peas, to raise in autumn
    to sow,  in circles
    early sown, to prevent mice from destroy
      ing
    qualities of
    to cultivate
Peat and peat ashes, use of, as manure
Peats, to char at the moss
    for family use
Peccalili, to make, Indian method
Pelisses, to scour
Pencil drawings, to preserve
Pencils, artificial black lead, to make
    English drawing
    lithographic
Pennyroyal, oil of, to obtain
    water, simple, to make
Peppermint, cordial, to make
    drops, do
    spirit, do
    oil of, to procure
    water, to prepare
Pepper, Jamaica, water
Perry, to manage
    to make
Perspective, scale  for dividing the vanishing
       lines
Perfumery and cosmetics
    eau de cologne, to make
           melisse de carmes
           bouquet
    essence de jasmine
    honey water, to make
    ottar of roses
    milk of do, English
                French
     cream of roses, to make
     pomatum, cold,  for the complexion
     pommade divine, to make
     pearl water, for the face
     almond bloom, to prepare 
INDEX.
447
Perfumery and cosmetics
    almond paste
    pomatum, orange
        soft
        common     ,
        hard
        rosemary
    pearl powder for the face
    bismuth do      .
        caution in using
    orange flower paste  for the hands
    coral tooth powders
    vegetable tooth brushes
    an astringent for the teeth
    excellent opiate for do
    rose lip salve   ,
    white do
    to sweeten the breath
    perfumed  bags for drawers
    perfume for clothes
                gloves
        tincture of musk
        to prevent pestilential airs, &c
        for sick rooms
        explosive pastils
        aromatic do
        hair powder
        ambergris
        musk and civet
        orris
        violet
        rose        .
        bergamotte  .
        ambergris
        musk and civet do
        violet       .
        rose
        rouge, Spanish ladies'
        Spanish vermilion
        economical rouge
        Turkish bloom
        wash for sun-burnt faces, he
        Macouba snuff
        cephalic do
        Spanish do, imitation of
        London imitation of Spanish, &c,
        soap,  transparent
              Windsor
              almond
        balls, marbled
             Naples, imitation of
Pewter, common, to  prepare
    best
    hard            •        <
Pheasants, to breed   .        .
Phial,  Bologna, to make
Philips's rules for health
Philosophical instruments, lacker for
Phosphorus, to preserve
Pictures, to clean     .        •
    to preserve
    ancient, to restore the white of
/   to enlarge, or diminish
Pickling             •        •
    saur kraut, to make
    peccalili          •        •
Pickle, to, onions    ,
    samphire         .        •
    mushrooms       .        •
    cucumbers       .        •
    walnuts, white
    anchovies, artificial
    salmon          .        •
Pickles, to detect copper in
Pie, perigord, to make
    oyster           .
    pigeon          .
189
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
190
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
191
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
192
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ih
  ib
  ib
  ib
193
  ib
  b
  ib
  ib
  10
  ib
  ib
357
375
260
  27
392
 48
392
101
  54
1S4
  ib
185
184
185
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
  ib
392
171
415
168
i Pie, giblet            .         .        .168
     rump steak      .         .               ib
     chicken and rabbit         .               ib
     raised, French, ham and pork, &c.  167—169
 Pigeons, en compote           .        .168
 Pilchards, to cure    .         .        .    359
 Piles, treatment of   .         .        .219
     ointments for    .         .        .      ib
     Ward's paste for           .        .    234
 Pills, chalybeate      .         .        .    244
     compound aloetic         .        .    235
     aloetic and myrrh        .        .    250
     assafcetida       .        .        .      ib
     Plummer's      .        ,        .      ib
     compound, colocynth      .        .    235
     aloetic          .        .        ,      ib
     compound rhubarb        .        ,    236
     croton           .        ,        ■*.    397
     expectorant     .        .        .    236
     Napoleon's pectoral       .        .      ib
     anti-hysteric     .        ,        .    243
 Pimento, oil of, to procure    .    €    .    148
 Pinery, to manage a           .        ,    294
 Pines,  mode  of cultivating    .        ,     295
     the soil          .                  .       ib
     heat            .         .               ib
     to propagate     .        .               ib
     to separate crowns and suckers      .       ib
     treatment of the plants    .        .       ib
     ripe, to cut      .         .               ib
     to destroy insects on       .        .    296
 Pipes, tobacco, to make       .        .    370
 Piping, a mode of cultivating plants by cuttings 290
 Pippins, new, to render productive      .     298
 Pinchbeck, to prepare         .        .       11
 Pismires, in grass, to prevent           .     336
 Plague, to disinfect substances of the    .     261
                   letters     .        .      ib
 Plant, to, thorn hedges        .        .    349
 Plants, insects on, to destroy  .        .    306
     to preserve from slugs    .        .    412
 Plantation, to form a          .        .    349
 Plaster figures, to bronze      .        .      30
     of Spanish flies           .        .    251
     compound Burgundy pitch          .       ib
               labdanum      .        .      ib
     adhesive         .         .        .     252
     court           .         .               ib
     of" Paris, as manure       .        ,     324
 Plate, to, looking glasses      .        .      11
          iron       .        .        .18
     and plated articles        .        .     389
 Plated copper, from, to obtain silver    .      17
     metals, to assay           .  ■      .       18
 Platina, mock, to prepare      .        .     \1
 Plating, silver solder for       .        ,13
 Pleurisy             .         .        .     204
 Plumbers, painters, and glaziers, cautions to  242
 Plums, qualities of            .        .     404
 Plant, to, shrubs     .         .        .     290
 Plants, to accelerate, in hot houses      .     291
     to choose        .        .        •    293
     to preserve from frost     .        .     294
     to destroy insects  on      .        .     306
 Plough, Small's improved, description of     314
     Veitch's do               .        .       ib
     for cleaning beans and turnips      .     315
 Poisons, remedies for          .        .    228
     acids           .         ,        .       ib
     alkalies         ,         ,        ,     229
     mercury        .         .         ,       ib
     arsenic          .         ,        ,       ib
     copper         .         .               ib
     antimony       .         .              ib
     salts of tin      .         .        .       ib
     salts of bismuth, gold, and zinc     .       ib
     lunar caustic    .        ,        .       ib 
448
UNIVERSAL REOEIPT BOOK.
Poisons, remedies for
    salt-petre       .         .
    sal ammoniac    .         .
    liver of sulphur
    phosphorus      .         .
    Spanish flies    .         .
    powdered glass  .         .
    lead
    laudanum or opium       .
    mushrooms      .         .
    fish, poisonous   .         .
    bites of serpents, he.      ,
    in sheep, to cure          .
Polish, to, varnish    .         .
    durable         .         .
    French         .         .
    varnished furniture
    wood
    brass ornaments inlaid in wood
Polygraph, to make  .
Pomatum, cold cream, for the complexion
    common
    hard
    rosemary       .         •
    orange          .         .
    soft
Pom made divine
Porcelain china, to manufacture
    to gild
    glass, Sec. to paint and.stain
Pork, qualities of *
    loin of, Portuguese mode of dressing
    pies
    to salt          .
    choice of       .         .
    to carve        .
Porter, to brew, London system
    three barrels of  .         .
    on Mr Morrice's plan     .
    from sugar and malt      .
    wilh table beer after
    to make a butt of stout
    to bottle
    to ripen, if flat, when bottled
Portland powders,  the, for the gout
Portugal water, to prepare
Posset, sack, and ale, to make .
Potatoes, new, to produce throughout winter
    fourteen ways to dress
    to apply dung to
    qualities of      .
    for sea provisions, to keep
    to preserve from frost     .
    to remove frost from      .
    to steam        .         .
    bread from, to make
    frosted, to use   .         .
        to make starch of     .
    to colli vale
    to prepare the ground for
    quantity cf  seed for
    to raise, advantageous method
    mode of taking up and storing the crop
    Irish method of cultivating
    early, to produce,  in great quantity
    to grow constantly on the same piece of
      ground       .        •               'h
    to boil, mealy   .        •          •    394
    to preserve     .        •        334, 394
Potash, to extract from potatoe tops     .    143
Potass Avater, to prepare      .        .157
Polygraph, an instrument for writing two let-
      ters at once   .        .        •    394
Polypus             .       •         •    202
Pottery              .       •             3V?
    English stone ware, to manufacture .     J"
    yellow, or queen's ware  .         •     ib
    229
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
    230
     ib
     22
    418
     35
    412
     26
     31
     ib
     ib
    394
    188
    189
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
    1S8
    369
     14
     68
    402
    166
    168
    186
    426
    420
    108
    109
     ib
    111
    114
    109
    120
     ib
    240
    151
    172
    302
    410
    333
    403
    172
    334
     ib
    172
     ib
172, 335
     ib
    333
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
    334
Pottery
    common ware   .         •
    English porcelain         •
    black glazing, to prepare  .
    porcelain, or china, to make
    delft ware
    Saxon or Dresden china
    English china, composition of
    china ware, to bake
    tobacco pipes, to make
    crucibles, to make        •
    glaze for        .         •
        white
        china, for printing blue frit
        cream coloured,  to make
        yellow, to form
        white, to prepare
        mixture for
            for printing  blue
        shining black
        purple under
        brown under
        china, to prepare
            for flotts
        green edge
        common, for earthen ware
        to, without lead
        transparent, for do
        masticot, ground for white
        white, for copper vessels
        very fine
        yellow
        lemon coloured
        light yellow
        gold coloured
        green, for white  ground
             fine
        blue
        violet blue  .
        red, fine    .
        china, Chinese mode
        English, for china
        modification of do
        white, for, to  make
        olive, sponge, dip
         white enamel
        fluxes, for  blue printing
                   black do
               red, to prepare
               black, for printing
               copper black
               red for printing
               umber  black
               black
     oil for black printing
     cream colour body, to form
     common body
     blue priming do
     chalk do
     cane colour
     china colour
     jasper  do
     drab    do
     pearl   do
     stone   do
     Egyptian black do
     enamel for earthen ware
     ware,  varnish for, free from lead
     varnish, for earthen  ware
     hard ware, to apply colours on,which |
       duce herborizations
     glass,  in imitation of engraving, to orna-
       ment        .         .
     prince Rupert's drops
     glass,  to break in any required way
 Poultry, to fatten
 Poultices,  various 
INDEX.
449
Powders
    Seidlitz, to make         .
    Portland         .        .
    Dover's          .        .
    aloetic, with iron
    for gilding       .        ,
Pradier's cataplasm for gout   .
Pregnancy, diseases attendant on
Preserving
    preserve, tc, fish, by sugar
        fruits
        damsons, by bottling  .
        barberries
        grapes
        cherries, by drying
        candied orange flowers
        seeds in honey, for vegetation
        fruits in brandy
        Seville oranges, whole
        cucumbers and melons
        strawberries, whole
        apricots
        gooseberries
        candied angelica
                eringo
        substances, by heating, Sec.
 Prince's metal, to prepare
 Printing from stone
 Print, to copy a
 Prints, to bleach
 Printer's types, alloy for
 Puerperal fever
 Punch
 Purgative medicines
     powder
 Putrid fever
 Pudding, Dr Kitchener'i
     Nottingham
     Yorkshire
     Dutch
     Windsor
     Cheshire
     plain
     Patna rice
     potatoe, baked
     marrow
     Oldbury
     quince
     tansy
     lemon
     Mrs Goodfellow's
     transparent
     orange
     cocoa-nut
     Boston apple
         baked
     spring fruit
     plum
     batter
     Newmarket
     cabinet
     vermicelli
     bread
     suet
     custard
     hominy
     rice
     ground rice, or sago
     sweet potatoe
     citron
     cream
     Indian
          baked
     pumpkin
  Puffs
     orange
     paste    .
        3  G
         Pulse, of the                 .        •     198
    254  Pyroligneous acid, to prepare  .        .     155
    240
    250                        Q.
     ib  Quass, to make
     16  Quicksilver, to freeze
    240  Queen's metal
    244           ware, to make
    186  Quills, to prepare
     ib  Quince,  marmalade, to make
     ib  Quinces, to preserve  .
     ib
     ib                        R.
     ib  Rabbit, pie
     ib          Welsh
     ib  Radishes, to cultivate, to have them at all
    187         sons
     ib       qualities of
     ib  Ragout of  asparagus, to make  .
     ib       mushrooms, to make
     ib       artichokes, do    .        .
     ib       calves' sweet-bread, do   .
     ib       with roots, do
     ib  Raspberry paste, to make
     ib       jam, do
    394       cream, do       •
     12  , Razors, paste for sharpening
     67  (     to hone and strop
     55  Realgar, for dyeing, to prepare
     97  Rheumatic affections, remedy for
     10       pains in the face, do
    245       gout, do         .        .
    122  Rheumatism, remedies for
    235       chronic
    236       inflammatory     .
    200       pills for
    169       liniment for
      ib       Chelsea pensioners, remedy for
    170  Rhodium, oil of, to procure
      ib  Rhubarb, common garden, to cultivate
      ib       to force
      ib       to dry
      ib       to cure
      ib  Rice, qualities of
170, 414  Rickets in children, remedy for, regimen, &c.
    170       jelly from the raspings of ivory, for
      ib   Riga balsam,  tlie true
      ib   Ringworm          .        .       217,
      ib   Roads, M'Adams's  system of making
      ib   Rollers, for smoothing the surface of land
    179   Rolls, Freneh
      ib   Rooms, to ventilate
171, 414   Roots, to preserve and pack
171, 414        to dry
171, 413        to preserve
    414   Roscoe's method of improving moss land
     171   Rose-water, to prepare
      ib   Roses, butter of, to prepare
      ib        ottar  of
      ib       English milk of .
      ib       French milk of .
      ib       cream of
      ib       to obtain twice in the year
      ib  Rosemary, oil of    .
      ib       water
     414  Rot, dry, in timber, to cure
      ib  Rue, oil of, to procure
      ib  Rubber, to make
      ib  Rugs, hearth, to scour
      ib  Rum, Jamaica, to make
      ib       to  imitate
      ib       from molasses, to obtain
      ib  Ruptures
     415       reducible
     179       irreducible
      ib       strangulated      .
     414  Rural economy
                                            2  JV«
155
388
  9
369
418
183
309
168
173

305
402
176
 ib
 ib
 ib
177
184
 ib
 ib
395
415
 84
239
240
401
212
 ib
 ib
239
211
240
148
303
 ib
 ib
 ib
403
248
249
148
249
382
315
413
387
294
307
308
322
151
148
188
  ib
  ib
  ib
401
149
150
387
 149
 26
 99
142
  ib
  ib
217
  ib
 218
  ib
 356 
450
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
Rupert's, prince, drops, to make
Rush-lights, to make
Rusks, to make      .
Russia leather, to manufacture  .
Rye, to cultivate     .         .

                      S.
Saffron, bastard, for dyeing, to prepare
Sail-cloth, to paint, water proof
Salep, and portable soup, properties of
Saline draught, to prepare
Salmon, to pickle     .
Salads, qualities of    •
    chicken
Salt, spirit of, or marine acid
    dephlogisticated
    to, hams
    made by evaporation on faggots
    beef and pork,  dry
Salutary cautions (see Cautions)
Samphire, to pickle
Sand  pot, portable, to make a
Sanfoin, to cultivate
Sarsenets, to clean
Sarsaparilla,  decoction of
    compound       .
Sassafras, oil of, to procure
    cocoa, to prepare
Satins, to paint on    .
    to gild
    white            .
Sauce, common, to make
    sweet            •
    miser's           .
    pontiff's         .
    housewife's      •
    parson's         •
    nun's            •
    admiral's        .
    piquante         .
    Italienne        .
    nonpareil        .
    Nivernoise      .
    general's        •
    sailor's           .
    queen's          •
    carach           •
    fish
    cream, for a hare
    for veal          .
    bechamel
    Kitchener's
Saur kraut, to make  .
Sausages, Bologna    •
    Oxford           .
    Epping
Savaloys, to make
Scald head, ointment  for
    treatment of
Scalds, to heal       .
    liniments for     ■
    extensive        .
    and burns, treatment of
Scalp, wounds of    .
Scarlet fever, treatment of
    malignant, do    •
Sciatica              •
Scions, to choose     .
Scirrhus             .
Scorbutic eruptions   .
Scouring, (see Bleaching)
    balls, to make
Scrofula             .  .
Scurvy              .
    cure for          .
    grass, spirit of, to make
Sea kail, to cultivate
375 |
396
179
282
331
   91
29,41
  402
  199
  185
  403
  416
  156
   ib
  186
  393
  186
  254
  185
  138
  337
   97
  254
   ib
  149
  157
   66
   15
   ib
  175
   ib
   ib
   ib
   ib
   ib
   ib
   ib
   ib
   ib
   ib
   ib
  176
   ib
   ib
   ib
   ib
   ib
  175
   ib
   ib
  184
  166
   ib
   ib
   ib
  233
  217
  230
   ib
  232
  230
  223
  215
   ib
  239
  289
  213
  217
   94
  100
  212
  217
  417
  153
  305
Sea weed, as manure
    application of, as
    water, to render fit to wash
    to obtain, fresh, from
Seamen, cautions .to
    health of, to preserve
Seidlitz powders, to prepare
Seltzer water        . *
Seeds, to sow, with advantage
    flower,  to preserve
    to improve all sorts of
    to preserve for a long time
    exotic           .
    to pack for transportation
Serpents, bites of     .
Shad, choice of
Shawls, silk, to dye crimson
Sheep, foot-rot in, to cure
                  to prevent
    to prevent catching cold after shearing
    scab in, to  cure
            to prevent
    maggots in, to destroy
    water in the heads of, to cure
                         to prevent
    rules for feeding with straw
Sheep's leather, elegant, to prepare
                        to dye
    dung, utility of, for dyeing
Sheep, poisoned, to cure
Slieep skins, to convert into leathsr
    to prepare  in oil, mock chamois
Shepherds, practice of Spanish
Ships, health on board of, to preserve
    provisions
    spirits,  beer, &cc.
    fresh animal food
    biscuit, flour, &c.
    water
    to purify with charcoal
    cleanliness in     .
    to prevent damp and cold
    exercise and amusements
    diseases
    effects of climate, Sec.
    cautions, when on shore
         in tropical climates
    intoxication
    noxious vapours
    to obtain fresh water from sea
    to wash with sea water
    hints, in case of a leak
    temporary  nautical pumps
    to render sinking, impossible
    air-pipes for ventilating
Shipwreck, preservation from
    when a man falls overboard
    upsetting of a boat
    cork waistcoats
    further  means'-.jf preventing
    assiitance to a person in danger of drown
       ing
    cork matrasses
    the marine spencer       .
    bamboo habit
    Daniel's life preserver
    to extricate persons from broken ice
    the life boat
    safe and readily constructed life boats
    further methods of preservation in cases of  ib
Shoes, to render water proof  .          30, 405
Shoots, to preserve, from slugs and ear-wigs 306
Shrubs, brandy, to make      .         .    145
    rum and currant          .         .      ib
    to plant them to advantage           .    292
    to remove superfluous suckers from  .    298
    to protect from hares      .         ,    299 
INDEX.
451
Shrubs, to transplant in full growth     .    398
Sick, on visiting the, cautions to be observed  241
                                           235
                                           201
                                             15
                                         30,  34
                                             ib
                                             66
                                             97
                                             98
                                             ib
                                             ib
                                             ib
                                           350
                                             98
                                             ib
                                             83
                                             ib
                                             84
                                             85
                                             ib
                                             87
Sight,  weak, remedy for
    dimness of      .
Silk, to gild
    varnished, to prepare
    varnish for, to make
    to paint on      .
    flowered, to clean
    coloured
    black
    rusty black, to dip
    to extract grease spots from
Silk worms, to rear
Silks, to remove stains from
                spots of paint from
    to alum
    to dye, blue
            yellow
            red, crimson, Stc.
            black
            with Prussian blue
    to precipitate acetates of lead and copper
       on                                    ib
    to dye, brown, in the small way     .      88
    of fawn-coloured drabs, to dye      .      ib
    to dye lilac     .         .         .      ib
    flesh colour     .         .         .      ib
    to bleach       .         .         .96
Silver ores, to assay  .         .         .8
    by cupellation   .         .         .      ib
    in the humid way         .         .      ib
    to assay the value of       .         .8
    double assay of   .         .         .9
    imitation of               .         .12
    solder for jewellers       .         .      13
              plating          .         .      ib
    to separate from plated copper      .      17
    chemical test for          .         .     392
Silvering           .         .         .11
    glass globes, liquid foil for          .      ib
    copper ingots    .         .         .16
    by heat         .         .         .17
    on gilt work, by amalgamation      .      ib
    in the cold way           .         .      ib
Silver tree, to prepare the     .               18
    liquid, to restore rusted   .         .      53
         for vellum painting   .         .      ib
    plate, to take stains out of  .         .     100
         to clean     .         .               ib
Size, isinglass., to make        .         .     385
Sleep, to procure    .         .         .     408
Small-pox, treatment of       .         .     216
    vaccination     .         .               ib
Smoky chimneys, to cure       .         .     386
Snail water, small, to make    .         .     151
Snuff. Macouba      .         .         .192
    cephalic        .         ,               ib
    imitation of Spanish       .         .      ib
    London do                .               ib
Soap, transparent, to make     .         .     193
    Windsor       .         .               ib
    almond         .         .         .      ib
    balls, marbled   .         .         .      ib
    Naples, to imitate         .         ,      ib
Soda  water, to prepare        .         .     157
Soil for a garden, to choose the best     .     284
    component parts of       .        .311
    clayey, to distinguish     .         .      ib
            to manage         .        .     285
    sandy, to manure         .         .311
    gravelly         .         .         .     312
    use  of different           .         .      il)
    burning surface          .         .     322
     Mr Curwen's method     .         .      ib
Solder, common, to prepare   .         .      10
    hard            .         •         .      ib
Solder, soft         .        •
    for steel joints   .        •
    brass, for iron   .         .
    silver,  for jewellers       .
           plating   .         .
    gold
Soleil, coup de       .        •
Soups      .        .        .
    Flemish        .        .
    portable        .        •
    maigre         .        •
    mock turtle     .        .
    asparagus       .        .
    giblet           .
    white           .        .
    charitable       .        .
    veal gravy       .        .
    beef             .        .
    a poor man's     .        .
    cheap rice  and meat
    another cheap    .        .
    herring          .        .
    nutritious
    transparent, for convalescents
    chowder
    mullaga-tawny
    hodge-podge
Sow, to, seeds to advantage
Sowing machine, description of
    wheat, method of        .
    grain,  by ribbing         .
Spearmint  water, simple      .
Spectacles, use  of
Specula, or telescopes         .
Spleen, enlarged
Spinach
Spirituous  water, rules for distilling
Spirits, to distil, from carrots  .
    to dulcify
    foreign, to imitate
    spirit of malt, to make
    of wine, do      .
    proof            .        .
    of salt, or marine acid    .
    to fine           .        .
    compound       .
Sprains
Sprats, to cure        ,        .
Spruce  beer, brown and white
Squills, vinegar of
Statues, ancient, composition of
Starch, from frosted potatoes
Steel, to gild
    to convert  into iron by cementation
    improved mode of  hardening
    English cast, to prepare
    to colour blue
    to distinguish from iron
    goods, to preserve
    improved mode  of hardening by hammer-
      ing
    to engrave on
Stereotype plates, alloy for
    mode of casting
Stews, (see Culinary Arts)
    French, of greens and bacon
Stencilling
Still, hot, to make a  .        .
    large do
    operations of the         .
    new worm for
Stings and  hites
Stomach, inflamed    .         .
    cramp in        .        .
Stockings,  silk, to clean       .
    to dye flesh colour        .
           black 
459
UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
 Stone ware, English, to make          .    369
 Stone in the bladder  .         .        .    209
 Stoves, cracks in, to mend      .        .418
 Strangury           .         .        .    209
 Strawberry water     .         .        ,    151
     jelly, to make    .         .        .    184
     jam             .         .              ib
     Alpine, to cultivate the    .        .    305
     qualities ofthe   .         .        .    404
     to preserve the, whole     .        .187
 Straw, importance of           .        .    344
     weight of, in different crops        .      ib
     value of Jifferent  kinds of          .     345
     wheat           •         .              ib
     oat              .         .              ib
     bean            .         .        .      ib
     peas            .         .              ib
     tare, or hay      .         .              ib
     in feeding cattle with,  rules for     .      ib
              horses           .        .     346
              sheep           .        .      ib
     miscellaneous consumption of       .     347
     as applicable to litter       .        .     346
                to thatching  „        .      ib
Strictures            .         .        .     210
Stucco,  Wych's, to make       .        .     103
     Williams's, do            .        .     104
     iron, do          .         .              ib
Styes, treatment of   .         .        .     235
Sugar, use of,  in brewing     .        .119
     to obtain from beets       .        .     144
     maple, juice of. to extract, without injuring
      the tree        .         .        .     417
Suffocation, by noxious vapours         .     228
     by hanging       .        .              ib
       drowning     .         .        .      ib
Sunflower, the        .        .        .     306
Swelling, white       .        .        .212
Swimming, art of            .        .     259
Swine, measles in, to cure     .        .     275
     rupture in                .              ib
Syllabub, whipt, to make      .        .182
     solid, do         .        .              ib
Syrup of ginger, to make      .        .     253
    poppies          .        .        .      jb
     squills          .        •        .      jb
    violets          •        •        .      ib
Syphilis    .         .        .        .210
                      T.
Tanning, and the treatment of leather    .    280
    improvement in           .        .     ib
    new process of           .        .    281
    use of the Avood  and bark of the horse
      chesnut tree for        .        .    282
Tan, to, hides or skins        .        .    280
    without bark or mineral astringents       ib
    calf or other skins        .        .     ib
    hides            .        .              ib
    new species of           .        .    401
Tape Avorm, specific for the    .        .    405
Tar, oil of, to procure        .        .    149
    water, to prepare         .        .    254
Tares, to cultivate    .        .        .    332
Tarts, raspberry and cream    .        .    170
    paste for         .        •        •    172
    almond          ...    179
    orange, to make  .        .        .     ib
Tartar, tincture of salt of     .        .    144
Tea, beef, to make   .        •        •    254
    qualities of              .        .    404
    native            .        .        .    157
    substitutes for    .        .        •    158
    trays, to clean    .        .        .391
Teeth, extraction of, to check hemorrhage in  234
    diseases of the, remedies for       .    235
 Teeth, preservation of the
     picking the
     loose, remedy for
     foul
     cleaning the
     to clean and preserve
     astringent for the
     to make the, white
     excellent opiate for the
 Telegraph, domestic, to make
 Telescopes, specula for
 Terapins
 Testicle, diseases of
 Tetanus
 Thatching, straw as applicable to
 Thermometer, Fahrenheit's, to construct
     common
     to adjust the fixed points of  the
 Thrashing machine, description of
 Throat, sore
     gargle for       .        .
     putrid
     inflammatory
     strictures in
     wounds in       .        .
 Thrush in children, remedies for
     gargles for
Thunder,  he.        .        .
Thyme, oil of, to procure
Tic doloureux       .        .
Tiffanies,  to wash and stain
Tiles, red distemper for, to make
     to preserve      .        .
Tillage, operation of          .
     best mode of
     to conduct a fallow       .
     to prepare the ground
     two sets of ploughs required for
Tincture of Japonica, to prepare
     salt of tartar
    antimony
     benzoin
     catechu
     ginger
     guaiacum
     guaiacum, ammoniated
     Peruvian bark
        Huxham's
     rhubarb
        compound
     senna
    balsam of Tolu
Tin  ores, to assay
     in the humid way
     to, copper and brass
        iron  and copper vessels
     solution of, in aqua-regia  .
     muriate of, to make
    tree, to prepare the
Tinning, Kustitien's metal for
Tobacco pipes, to make       .
Tomatas catsup      .        .
Tombac, to prepare
     red
     white
Tools, edge, from cast steel and iron
Tonsils, swollen
Tooth ache, to prevent the
      radical cure for the     .
     brushes, vegetable, to make
     powders
     coral, he.
     remedies for the
Tortoise shell, to weld
 Travelling, in, to escape the effects of light
 Trees, to graft
     to plant,  to advantage 
INDEX.
453
Trees, to pack for exportation  .         310, 410
    foliage of, to water        .         .    291
    planting, general mode of           .    292
        more expeditious method       .      ib
    forcing, German way      „         ,      ib
    small fruit, to plant       .         ,    293
    standard, to clothe the stems of      .      ib
    orchard, to prune         .         .      ib
    deformed, to reoover      .         .      ib
    to transplant              .         .    291
    orchard, diseases of       .         .    293
    fruit, to raise and manage  .         .    292
        to preserve from frost          .    294
            Russian way      .         .      ib
        in blossom            .         .    298
        to proteet from insects          .    294
        to propagate, Chinese way      .    298
        to clear from worms, &c.       .    398
    peach, to preserve         .         .    417
    wall, skreen for protecting          .    294
        new way of           .         .    409
    apple, old, to renovate      .         .    298
        treatment of          .         .      ib
    wounds in, he.            .         .    299
    exhibiting the, to obtain early fruit by    298
    coffee, to engraft          .         .      ib
    wall fruit, to hasten the ripening of  .      ib
        composition for do    .         .      lb
    to prevent the growth of weeds round    299
    fruit, nails in, to avoid the effects of        ib
    moss on, to destroy        .         .      ib
    to protect from hares      .         .      ib
    apple, insects on, to prevent the propaga-
           tion of                            ib
        canker in             .         .    300
        the disease in,  to cure .         .      ib
    canker in        .         .               ib
    elm, ulcers in, to cure     .         .      ib
    orchard, to cleanse, by lime         .      ib
    fruit, blight in, to cure    .         .      ib
        mildew on, to prevent          .      ib
    peach,  do        do      .         .      ib
    gumming in, to prevent    .         .      ib
    young, to pack, for exportation      .    310
Tympany            .         .         .    210
Tumours            .         .         .    217
    fleshy, &c.       .        .         .    218
Turkeys, qualities of          .         .    403
    dropsy in the crops of     .         .    278
    choice of        .         .         .    426
Turner's varnish for box wood          .      26
    cerate            .         .         .251
Turnips, to cultivate           .         .    335
    to prepare the ground for  .         .      ib
    to sow seeds for           .         .      ib
    cleaning process          .         .    336
    yellow, to cultivate         .         .      ib
    Swedish, or ruta-baga     .         .      jb
    fly on, to destroy          .         .      ib
          to prevent          .         .      jb
          to check the        .         .      ib
    cleaning, plough for       .         .    315
    to apply dung to           .             318
    qualities of  .     .       *  .         •    404
Turnsole, blue, for dyeing      .         .93
Turpentine, oil of, to procure  .         •    149
    to rectify         .         .         .      ib
Turtle, to dres3       .         .         .415
    calf's head,  in imitation of          •      jb
    mock            ,         .         •      ib
Tutania, or Britannia metal    .         .      12
    German          .         •         .      ib
    Spanish          .         .         .      ib
    Engestroom      .         •         .13
Tutenag, to prepare  .         .         .10
Types, printer's, alloy for      .         .      ib
Typhus fever         .         .         .    200
                      U.
Ulcers     .        .        .        .220
    mercurial, in the mouth   .        •    202
    and pimples on the tongue          •     ib
    inflamed        .        .        .220
    fungous         .        .        .     |b
    sloughing       .        .        •     jh
    indolent         .        .        .     jb
    carious          .        .        .     ib
    poultices for, various      :        .    232
    lotions for scorbutic       .        .     jb
        for scrofulous        .        .     ib
Umbrellas, to make pliable varnish for  .     34
Urine, incontinence of        .        .    209
    suppression of            .        .     ib
    difficulty of     .        .        .     ib
Usquebaugh, to make         .        .    145
Uvula, enlarged      .        .        .    202
Vaccination         .        .        .    216
    signs of a true   .        •        •     ib
Varnishes           .        .        .22
    poppy oil, for drying      .        .     ib
    fat oils          .        .        .     ib
    resinous drying oil        .        .     23
    copal, various colours     .        .33
Varnish, fat copal             .        .     23
    for plaster figures         .        .     30
    for watch cases, to imitate tortoise shell    23
    colourless copal           .        .     ib
    white do        .        .        .33
    gold coloured do          .        .23
    camphorated do                          ib
    ethereal do               .        .24
    turpentine do   .        .        .32
    fat amber       .        .              ib
    amber with turpentine     .        .     ib
    Shaw's  mastic    .        .        .25
    for electrical purposes     .        .     27
    fat amber, or copal        .        .     24
    to apply it to opake enamels        .     33
    compound mastic         .        .     24
    camphorated do for paintings       .     25
    painter's cream           .        .     ib
    caoutchouc      .        .        .34
    sandarac        .        .        .25
         compound  .        .        .     ib
         camphorated         .        .     ib
    for cut paper Avorks,  dressing boxes, &c.   ib
    spirituous sandarac, for wainscotting, &c.   ib
    for violins, &c.           .        .     32
    coloured, for violins, he., plum tree, ma-
      hogany, and rose wood           .     26
    fat, of a gold colour       .        .     ib
         or golden, being a  mordant to gold
          and dark colours    .        .     ib
    Turner's, for box Avood    .        .     ib
    to,  dressing  boxes        .        .     27
    to,  glass        .        .        .33
    gallipot         .        .        .27
         mastic,  for grinding colours    .     ib
    to, harps and dulcimers    .        .     32
    for boots and shoes        .        .    405
    lacquer, for brass          .        .     27
         for philosophical instruments    .      ib
         gold coloured, for brass watch cases,
          watch keys, &c.     .        .     ib
         of a less drying quality         .      ifi
         of various tints       .         .      28
    mordant, for gilding       .         .      ib
    others          .         .         .     ib
    composition  for  making  coloured draw-
      ings and prints  resemble oil paintings    ib
    to colour baskets          .         .      ib
    to, balloons      .         .         .34
    rarified  air do            .         .      ib 
454
UNIVERSAL  RECEIPT BOOK.
Varnish
    for coloured drawings     .        .      si
    for pales, and coarse wood work    .      28
    for wood, which resists the action of boil-
      ing water     .         .         .32
    black, for old straw or chip hats     .      28
    to, drawings and card work         .      32
    to make sail cloth water proof      .   29, 41
            on wood         .        .      39
    coloured composition for rendering linen
      and cloth water proof   .         .      29
    to thicken linen cloth for skreens and bed
      testers        .         .        .      ib
    to make liquid paste with drying oil       ib
    common wax, for cloth     .         .      ib
    fine printed cloths, to prepare      .      ib
    silk, to prepare           .        .      30
    for silks, &c.    .         .        .   30,34
    for umbrellas    .         .         .30
    for Indian shields         .        .      35
    to, like gold, silver leaf   .        .      ib
    to recover       .         .              ib
    to polish        .         .               ib
Varnishes for engraving, (see Engraving)      77
Vaults, foreign wine, to manage        .     133
Veal, qualities of             .        .    402
    choice of                               426
    savoury dish of, to make   .        .     165
    cake, to make   .         .               ib
    breast, glacee    .         .              ib
    shoulder, en galantine     .        .      ib
    ragout of, cold   .         .              ib
    to carve         .         .        .     420
 Vegetable liquids, to deprive, of their colour 155
 Vegetables, to propagate      .        .     286
    by seed         .         .              ib
    by germs or bulbs         .        .      ib
    by slips         .         .              ib
    by division of the plant    .        .      ib
    by runners      .         .       . .     287
    by suckers      .         .              ib
    by layering     .         .              ib
    by innarching   .         .              ib
    by budding     .         .              ib
    by shield-budding         .        .      ib
    green, for manure, to decompose   .    323
    to protect from injuries, by straw ropes  291
        by nets     .         .        .     ib
        by canvass skreens             .      in
    to gather        .         .        .308
    to preserve      .         .        .      ib
Veins, enlarged, spermatic    .        .211
Vellum, to make     .         .        .    283
    to convert into leather     .        .     ib
    painting, liquid gold foi   .        .      53
                   silver              .      ib
    to stain, green                     .      94
    tc restore rusted liquid sils er       .      53
    to make glaira of eggs for          .      ib
    ground, to  lay silver or gold upon   .      ib
Velvet, to paint on            .        .     65
    materials required         .        .     ib
    subjects for painting      .        .     ib
    appropriate colours       .        .     ib
    compound do                            66
    directions for painting     .        .     ib
Venison, qualities of           .        .    402
    pasty           .         •        •    415
Ventilation of churches       .        .    260
              houses         •              ib
Vermin, to preserve houses from        .    363
    crops from      .         «        •    336
Vines, to plant      .         .        .    296
    composts for    .         •               jb
    to choose the plants        .        •      jb
    to prune and train          .        ■      ib
         to advantage          .        •    297
Vines, to destroy insects on
Vinegar, to make     .
    common
    Avine             .
    sugar
    gooseberry       .
    currant
    primrose
    raisin
    cider
    from the refuse of fruits
                     bee hives
    from orange and elder flowers, Sec.
    to strengthen
    ice, to prepare
     Suass,  to make
     istilled
        improved    .         .
    to deprive of colour
    of squills
    aromatic         .         .
    cheap  do for purifying manufactories
    balsamic and anti-putrid
Vinous fermentation
Vol-au-vent, to make

                      W.
Waffles
    Dutch way
Walks, gravel, to make
Walls, new, to preserve from dampness
Walnuts, to preserve
    to pickle, while
Warts, to remove
    to treat
    venereal
Wasps, he., stings of
Watch cases, mock tortoise shell
    works, oil for
Wash, for  preserving  crayon  drawings
Water colours (see Colours)
              for animals, to mix
Water, fresh, from sea,  to obtain
    sea, to render fit  for washing
    common,  distilled
    casks,  to clean            ,
    for brewing, to choose
    to purify, by charcoal
    to, meadows              .
    to raise, in all situations
    warm, for a carriage, or  small room
    to walk on the
    to determine if hard or soft
    pipes,  to manage in winter
    soda
Water-proof, composition for making linen,he.
                            sail cloth
                            linen and cloth
    boots,  to prepare .
    composition for leather or cloth
                for leather,  patent
Waters, simple, rules for distilling
    stills for
    expeditious mode of distilling
    compound distilled
Wax, painting on, Grecian method
    red sealing, to make
    black
    green            .        .
    blue             .        .
    yellow          .        .
    purple
    uncoloured, soft
    coloured
    bordering for engravers    .
    candles, to  make  .       .
Weeds, to destroy 
INDEX.
455
Weeds, usefulness of moving
Wheat, to cultivate
    to preserve       .
    method of sowing
    drilling, improved way of
    to lickle the seed of
    diseases of
    blight, mildew, rust
    mildewed, impropriety of using
        to remove
        to prevent
    smut in
        Henderson's method of preventing
    harvest, to manage the
    to destroy slugs upon
    to cut, time  for
Whiskey cordial, to make
WhitloAV, treatment of
Whites, in women    .
White-wash, to       .
White SAvelling
Wigs, to prepare hair for
Windows, to keep up
Wines, British,  to make
    gathering the fruit
    pickling         .
    bruising         .
    vatting
    vinous fermentation
    flavouring
    drawing the mast
    pressing the husk
    casking the  must
    spirituous fermentation
    racking          .
    fining
    bottling and corking
    apparatus for
    gooseberry, red   .
                  and white
                white,  or champagne
    champagne, British
    gooseberry and currant     .         124,
    currant, red
            white
            Dutch
            black
    mixed berries from small gardens
    compound
    other mixed berries
    strawberry
    raspberry
    mulberry
    elderberry
    Cyprus, imitation of
    elder-flower, or Frontiniao
    port, imitation of
    wortle, or bilberry
    birch
    blackberry
    spruce
    juniper berry
    damson
    cherry
    morella
    peach
          and apricot
    apricot
    lemon
    apple, white
           red
    quince
    orange
           and lemon
    mead, white
            red, or metheglin
           walnut
338
326
361
326
327
 ib
828
 ib
 ib
 ib
329
 ib
 ib
330
337
394
148
219
243
395
212
395
388
122
 ib
 ib
 ib
123
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ih
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
124
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
401
124
125
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
  ib
  ib
 ib
 ib
126
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
127
  ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
  ib
  ib
 ib
123
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
 ib
129
 ib
 ib
Wines, American honey
    cowslip, red
            white
            mead
    cider, white
          rod
    grape, red
          white
    raisin, equal to sherry
    another raisin and grape
    claret, vine leaf
    from frosted potatoes
    ginger
    koumiss, tartar
    rhubarb
    sage
    gi Hi flower
    turnip
    rose
    barley
    fig, English
    sycamore
    balm
    scurvy grass
    claret, cheap and wholesome
    dry
Wines, British, management of
    to guard against  unripe fruit
    to keep and manage        .
    to sweeten a  sour cask
    poor, to improve
          to improve when lowering
    flat, to restore
    disagreeable taste, to remove
    ill scent of
    to pass white for champaigne
    to make it sparkle like do
    foul or ropy,  to clear       .
    green or harsh, to correct  .
    sharp, tart, acid
    sour            .
    to fine or clarify
    to sweeten
    to stop the fermentation
    pricked, to restore
    decanting
Wine vaults, foreign, to manage
    wines and spirits, cellar of, to fit up
        foreign,  process of making
        port, to make
             to manage and  improve
        to make, French method
        foreign,  to rack
        claret, to manage
              to colour
              foul,  to restore  .
              and port, to make them rough
        foreign pricked, to recover
        Hermitage and Burgundy, to manage
        Lisbon      .
        Bucella     .
         Sherry,  to improve
        white
        to improve by chalk
        sick, to renovate
        to mellow
         sour, to restore, German method
        to concentrate, by cold
        white, to fine
        red
        claret, to fine a hogshead of
        Sherry, to fine
                pale, to fine
        Madeira
                 West India, to improve
        Vidonia, to  fine
        Malmsey and  other 
456                          UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK.
Wines, port, to fine  .         .
    finings, to make and apply
           to force down
    white, to convert into red
    red into white
    new, to preserve against thunder
    tom.ke it settle well
    casks, match for sweetening
    oyster powder for
    filtering bag     .         .
    to bottle        .
    adulterated, to detect
    alum in         .
    lead and copper in
    corrosive sublimate and antimony in
      detect         .
    oil of, to procure          ,
Woad for dy -ing, to prepare
Wood, to preserve from insects
    for dyeing, to prepare     .
    oil gilding on             .
    to polish        .         .
    varnish, to make          ,
    to render incombustible
    to dye various colours
    to preserve by charcoal
Woods, medicinal decoction ofthe
Wool, to fix a mineral yellow on
    to dye, Prussian blue
           permanent blue    .
    to bleach
Woollens, undyed, to scour
    Fuller's purifier for       .
    to dye, blue
           yellow  .
           red, crimson, and scarlet
    to full
    to dye, black
           brown
Wormwood, oil of, to procure
Worms         .         .    208, 237,
    white thead worm, or ascarides
    round worm
    tape worm      .         .
    136
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
    137
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
     ib
 to
     ib
    142
     91
    306
     92
     15
     31
     39
    418
     93
    405
    254
     84
     87
     ib
     96
     98
    101
     84
     ib
     ib
     96
     85
     ib
    149
238,411
208, 237
    208
     ib
Worms, tape worm in children
    long round worm
    male fern       t         •
    worm-seed     .         .
    powder of tin   .         .
    oil of turpentine          .
    essence of bergamot      .
    Ching's lozenges          ■
    yellow lozenges           .
    brown lozenges           .
    petroleum, a general remedy
Worts, to boil       •         •
    to cool         .
    to mix the yeast with the  .
    to determine the strength of
    to apportion the yeast and apply it to
Wounds
    incised
    punctured
    contused
    poisoned
    of the ear, &c.
    of the scalp
    of the throat
    of the chest
    of the belly
    of the joints
Writing, to take out
    for the blind
 Yarn, to scour       .        .
k Yeast, to mix with worts
     to apportion and apply it to worts
     the fermentation of, to manage
     to preserve      .        .
     nine substitutes for
     to restore bad
 Yellow, or West India fever
Zaffre, to prepare    .
Zinc ores            .
    in the humid way
Z.
69
 6
ib
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