HYGIENE OF THE FACE Hl RICHARD W MULLER, M.D. HYGIENE OF THE FACE AND COSMETIC GUIDE ERRATA Page no. Under Lotions Corrosive sublimate 1 gramme should read Corrosive sublimate 0.1 gramme Page 134, Line 16 sweet almond oil should read linseed oil Page 162. Under Lotions for Freckles Corrosive sublimate 1 gramme should read Corrosive sublimate 0.1 gramme Page 195. Under Powders for Snuffing Up Porate of soda should read Borate of soda Page 235. Heading For Sunburn should read For Tanned Skin Page 235, Line 6 Bichloride of Mercury 0.50 should read Bichloride of Mercury 0.05 Hygiene of the Face and Cosmetic Guide. HYGIENE OF THE FACE AND COSMETIC GUIDE FULLY ILLUSTRATED BY RICHARD W. MULLER, M.D. NEW YORK E. P. DUTTON & CO. 681 FIFTH AVENUE Copyright, 1917, By E. P. DUTTON & CO. DEDICATED TO THE QUEEN OF HER SEX THE WORLD OVER, THE AMERICAN LADY CONTENTS PART I. PAGE Prophylaxis and Hygiene 13 Hygiene according to age .. 15 The Period of Youth 15 Sexual Period .. 17 Critical Period 24 Hygiene according to Region 31 General Hygiene •• 35 Cosmetics 39 Chemical Cosmetics •• 41 Liquid Cosmetics 41 Toilet Waters 41 Lotions • • 43 Toilet Vinegars 45 Virginal Milks 46 Solid Cosmetics 47 Cold Creams and Cerates 50 Ointments 51 Salves and Balsams 51 Pastes 52 Jellies 52 Soaps • • 57 Powders and Veloutines 54 Cosmetic Sticks 55 Dyes and Paints 56 Dyes 56 Paints •• 57 Physical and Mechanical Cosmetics...., 59 Massage 61 2 CONTENTS PAGE Technique of Massage 62 Regional Massage of the Face 63 Application of Bandages 65 Beauty Masks 65 Fig. 1.-Forehead (Acne) 66 Fig. 2.-Forehead (Wrinkles) 67 Fig. 3.-Nose 68 Fig. 4.-Eyes and Eyelids 69 Fig. 5.-Upper Eyelids 70 Fig. 6.-Lower Eyelids (Massage) 71 Fig. 7.-Lower Eyelids(Vibratory movement) 72 Fig. 8.-Left Cheek 73 Fig. 9.-Right Cheek 74 Fig. 10.-Both Cheeks 75 Fig. 11.-Entire Face 76 Fig. 12.-Lower part of the Face 77 Fig. 13.-Upper Lip 78 Fig. 14.-Chin 79 Electro-Therapeutic Treatment 80 Medico-Chirurgical Cosmetics 80 PART II. Acne (Figs. 15, 16) 84 Preventive Treatment 87 Curative Treatment 87 Lotions for Acne . 90 Creams, Salves and Pastes for Acne 91 Anhidrosis 93 Anemia . •• .. 93 Bandages (Figs. 17, 18. 19) 93 Barber's Itch (Fig. 20) 94 Beard 94 Bites 97 Blackheads or Blackpoints, Comedons 97 Breath (offensive) 100 Constipation 102 Congenital bad Breath 103 Scorbutic Ulcerations of the Mouth 105 Syphilitic Inflammation and Ulceration of the Mouth... 105 CONTENTS 3 PAGE Brilliantines 106 Burns 107 Chilblains • 109 Chin 109 Chloasma 109 Cicatrices 110 Cold Creams 113 Comedons • 114 Complexion 114 Congelations 118 Congestion of the Face • • 118 Cosmetics 120 Cracked Skin 121 Creams • 122 Fat Creams 123 Dry Creams 124 Indifferent, Mixed, Medical Creams 125 General Remarks on the Use of Creams 130 Composition of Creams 131 Manner of Preparing Creams 136 When Creams should be used 138 How to use Creams 138 Crow's Feet 139 Cysts • 139 Depilatory Powder- 139 Discolorations • • 139 Down • 140 Dressings 140 Driness of the Skin 140 Dry Face, its Care 141 Dyes 142 Ears 146 Electrolysis 146 Emulsions for the Toilette 147 Ephelides 148 Erythema • 148 Excessive Perspiration 149 Excrescences 151 4 CONTENTS PAGE Eyes 151 Eyebrows 152 Eyelashes .. 153 Eyelids 155 Black Circles under the Eyes 155 Conjunctivitis 155 Redness of the Eyes 156 Styes 157 Swelled Eyelids 157 Watering Eyes 158 Facial Blemishes 158 Lentigo or Freckles (Fig. 21) 160 Flaccid or Flabby Skin 163 Freckles .. 163 Frostbites 163 Furuncles J 163 Hair on the Face .. 164 Preparations for the Removal of Hair 165 Herpes • • 167 Humid Skin.... .. 167 Hyperhidrosis 168 Hypertrichosis 168 Intolerance of the Skin 168 Itching, Puritus • • 168 Lentigo • • 170 Lips • • 170 Atrophy of the Lips 170 Herpes, Lip Sores, Fever Sores 171 Hypertrophy of the Lips 171 Dry Lips 172 Pale Lips 172 Lotions 173 Masks (Figs. 22, 23) 174 Cosmetic Masks (Figs. 24-29) . 175 Rubber Masks (Figs. 30-33) .. 178 Massage (Figs. 34-47) 180 Plastic Massage ' 180 Manual Massage ,.. 180 Vibratory Massage (Figs. 48, 49) 188 CONTENTS 5 PAGE Moles, Beauty Spots 189 Neck 190 Nose • • 190 Blackheads, Black Points 192 Chronic Coryza 193 Sore Nose following Coryza 195 Chilblains or Frostbites 195 Enlarged Nose, Hypertrophy 196 Nasal Irritation 196 Bad Odor from Nose 196 Ozena or Stinking Nose 196 Paraffin 198 Rhinitis : 198 Rhinophyma 198 Redness of the Nose 198 Obesity 201 Paints 202 Paleness 207 Papers, Paper Leaves 207 Pastes 207 Perfumes • 208 Perspiration 209 Pigmentations 211 Pityriasis 211 Powders 211 Redness 212 Resins and Balsams 214 Rosacea 215 Rugosity of the Skin 216 Scale • 216 Seborrhoea 218 Soaps 219 Sprays (Figs. 50, 51) 221 Stings and Bites 223 Sunburn 223 Superfluous Hair, Hairiness 224 Thin Face 22^ Toilet of the Face 228 6 CONTENTS PAGE Toilet Water 232 Thickening of the Skin 236 Vinegars 236 Warts 237 Wrinkles (Fig. 52) 238 Preventive Cares 239 Corrective Cares 240 Hair 244 FOREWORD. The hygiene and treatment of diseases of the skin of the face are too often, and quite wrongly, neglected by physicians and given up to quacks, or left without medi- cal control to barbers and beauty doctors. The face is, however, the most useful portion of the body, not only for the physical and moral life, but still more for its relation to the family and society in general. The face is the seat of most of the organs of sense as well as those of expression. In the former the sensa- tions and sentiments have their birth, the latter by means of the nerves, the blood-vessels and the muscles, express these sensations and sentiments, either voluntarily by the expression called up at will, or involuntarily by change of color or by an unconscious mimicry. If the face is the open book of our sentiments, of our sensations, of our thoughts, our passions and our vices, it equally testifies to and reveals the functional or organic troubles which affect the health. One might say, in the form of an aphorism, that the appearance of the face and its expression, in a word the physiognomy, is the barometer of our moral and physical condition. 8 FOREWORD If the face, through its multiple changes of expression, shows what is going on within us, it is, on account of its uncovered position, the most readily exposed either to natural irritations such as the action of the air, cold, heat, and changes of temperature, or to artificial irritants such as defective hygiene, injurious practices, abuse of cosmetics and medicaments. All these irritants are the origin or commencement of functional troubles or local diseases. To-show-what one should do to avoid diseases of the face, to preserve what one has, to prevent what may come, to hide defects or supply what is missing: that is to say, preventive hygiene, the various cares of the toilet and the question of cosmetics, will be the object of the first part of this book. To ameliorate or to cure, that is, the proper treatment of the diseases of the face, form the subject of another division: cosmetics. There is an essential reason for this division: many troubles of the face belong simply to coquetry, annoying because of the moral influences which they exert; troubles, which the sufferer as well as the public recog- nize, and which can be relieved simply by hygiene and cosmetics. But on the contrary there are a great many diseases which are not only injurious to beauty as well as to social relations, but which by destroying certain parts of the face make a repulsive object of the victim, prevent him from attending to his work, and often reflect upon the health in general. Only the physician is capable of recognizing and treating these diseases, and in order to cure them he must diagnosticate them from their begin- ning. FOREWORD 9 It is to fulfil this double purpose: the prophylaxis and the treatment, that each of the divisions contains some medications and prescriptions. The author has borrowed and gleaned from all sides, from French professors as well as from English and German ones. He has sought out the best manuals on beauty, perfumery and cosmetics that he could find. He has even read and taken from journals on beauty. In thus doing, he has been guided by the thought that all this material might be of use in treating a question as delicate as that of the face, on which so often, through the sympathy or the repulsion which it inspires, depends the happiness or the unhappiness of the individual, of the family, of society. PART I. HYGIENE OF THE FACE PROPHYLAXIS AND HYGIENE The diseases which attack the face may be divided into: I. Eruptions induced either artificially or accidentally, resulting from improper care, local or atmospheric actions, physical and chemical irritations, or those of microbic origin. II. Spontaneous skin affections due to the condition of the system (gout, arthritis, scrofula) ; to infections (tuberculosis, syphilis, etc.). III. Senile degeneration: early or belated changes due to the conditions of life or to age. IV. Hereditary or congenital degenerations acquired at birth or by predisposition. The larger part of these eruptions could be prevented if their cause were known; the skin affections which come spontaneously are above all preventable by an appropriate general treatment; senile degenerations could be delayed by a good hygiene; the hereditary degenera- tions can be prevented or cut short, if the taints of the parents are known and combatted. The hygiene of the face consists above all in its proper care and cleanliness, the object of which is to preserve the qualities and natural functions of the skin. The rules for the care of the skin are either of a general character which means prevention of everything which could interfere with its regular function; or of 14 HYGIENE OF THE FACE special character, according to the color, the complexion, the age, sex and environment. Anything beyond this belongs to cosmetics, i.e., the knowledge of the means used to embellish; to repair or hide the imperfections of the face, or the changes result- ing from age, from bad hygienic conditions and from diseases. HYGIENE ACCORDING TO THE AGE Life in relation to the care of the face may be divided into three periods: 1. The period of youth from birth to puberty; 2. The sexual period from puberty to maturity; 3. The critical period from maturity to old age. These divisions are factitious; one may arrive at the age of puberty at twelve years, and be old at forty. At these two extreme periods, the hygiene is the same for both sexes. In the intermediate period, which is that of sexual activity, the hygiene of the face differs with men and women. This is the period of life in which the habits, the mode of life, the sentiments and sensa- tions, the state of the sexual organs, of the digestive and nervous systems exert the greatest influence upon the condition of the face. THE PERIOD OF YOUTH. FROM BIRTH TILL PUBERTY. The first care at the birth of the child is to remove the more or less sebaceous and adherent matter which covers the face. Wash with lukewarm water, which has first been boiled, and soap; rub very gently with eau de Cologne diluted with water, then with white vase- 16 HYGIENE OF THE FACE line; dry carefully and apply some rice powder. All this should be done by means of sterilized cotton tampons, which should be thrown away each time after using. This dressing must be done daily for five days in suc- cession and continued longer, if the skin is greasy, and particularly if there should be any slight eruption. How- ever, if the skin is dry, very red and irritable, the soap and the use of the Cologne water must be omitted from the beginning and only vaseline and powder applied. Boiled water allowed to become lukewarm is most suit- able. When the skin is pale and dry, it is well to follow up the lukewarm with a cold washing. Bathing with cream of milk diluted with warm water or with luke- warm marshmallow water, is recommended where the skin is irritable. In infancy, when the skin of the face peels off easily, and shows those little desquamations called tetter (herpes, eczema), soap must not be used; lukewarm water to which has been added a small quantity of salt or bi-carbonate of soda may be used and if this still proves too irritant, a fine piece of linen dipped in vaseline may be substituted, followed by wiping with sterilized cotton, then powdered lightly with starch. This care of the skin may cease at six years of age for boys, but can be continued in the case of a girl. Generally speaking, fresh cold water, which has been previously boiled, is the best to use from infancy to adolescence. In infancy using objects which are lying around, for wiping the face, must be avoided. Handkerchiefs are often the cause of infections of the skin, such as scurf or scaly skin, and of others still more serious, as syphilis or tuberculosis. Promiscuous kissing should not be allowed, and in the case of a girl the corset must ACCORDING TO AGE 17 be attended to as well as the position assumed when writ- ing : two factors which later may be the cause of erup- tions and acne. In both sexes the functions of the gastro-intestinal canal must be carefully watched, in order to prevent acne and other troubles of the face. SEXUAL PERIOD. At this period the principal thought which occupies the mind is the desire to please; anxiety about the looks follows as a consequence; the excess of care of the com- plexion and the abuse of cosmetics in the effort to pre- serve and to improve what nature has given, to modify or hide what is deficient. At this period the hygiene and the care of the skin differs for the two sexes. FROM PUBERTY TILL MATURITY. CARE OF THE FACE WITH MEN. These cares which should be particularly for the beard and mustache are the same as for the scalp. The clipping of the beard which should be done every two, three or four weeks, helps it to grow and prevents the hair falling out. The use of dyes or of certain cosmetics are apt to cause redness, desquamations or true eczemas, which may be very severe and obstinate. It is best to refrain from the use of dyes, even the so-called inoffensive ones. The mustache and beard should be washed thoroughly every ten to fifteen days with soapsuds, followed by fric- tion with alcohol, 18 HYGIENE OF THE FACE In the interval if the beard is dry, vaseline should be applied every third day, or brilliantine containing oil. If the beard is oily, it may be rubbed with alcohol or brilliantine in which alcohol predominates united with an essence of ether petroleum, and no greasy substance should be used. If the skin under the beard is scaly and it is found that lotions of alcohol used often increases this condi- tion it is better to use alkaline washes containing car- bonate or borate of soda and afterwards to apply vase- line, or a brilliantine containing glycerine. If there are pimples containing pus, they should be opened immediately or the diseased hairs extracted. It often happens that little pimples are neglected, which by spreading affect the whole vicinity and cause a suppurating affection called sycosis, one of the most difficult to cure. Shaving often causes a disorder resembling ringworm, characterized by a scaly condition of the skin which peels off, and by suppurating pimples; to avoid these accidents a mild soap must be used and care taken after shaving to bathe with a lotion of alcohol, then rub with vaseline and, after this, powder with starch. If the skin is sensitive and the trouble persistent, it is better to cease shaving for a while. The care of the mustache is the same as for the beard. The mustache and beard are often attacked by an affec- tion which manifests itself by a knotty appearance of the hair (trichorrhexis nodosa), accompanied sometimes by its fall. This affection requires the use of local treat- ment, such as lotions and alcohol rubbings, and, at the same time, necessitates special treatment and a regime the same as for arthritis, frequent in these cases. ACCORDING TO AGE 19 If very intense, it may be necessary to shave before a cure can be effected. CARE OF THE FACE WITH WOMEN. With women the care of the face is of considerable importance. It is more difficult to advise them because to make our advice useful we must take into considera- tion : 1. The color and complexion; 2. The quality of the skin; 3. The occupation; 4. The mode of life; 5. The general condition ; 6. And most important, the functions of the nervous system, the genital organs and the digestive tract. The color and complexion are connected with the color of the hair. The brunette, the blonde and the red are three great varieties of complexion; the chestnut belongs to one of these varieties. The brunette has a skin which secretes more, and the glandular system is more active. This explains why they have a more greasy skin, have oftener acne and oily seborrhoea and lose their hair more readily. The attention must be particularly directed in their case to the gastro-intestinal functions, the liver and kid- ney, and to the regulation of the secretions and excre- tions. The blondes have a finer skin, dryer and more easily scaling, predisposed to red spots and wrinkles. Their glandular system is less active, their lymphatic and ner- vous system more irritable. They easily get pigmenta- 20 HYGIENE OF THE FACE tions and red spots. It is necessary to pay attention to their nervous system and their circulation. The reds have not such a vulnerable skin as the blondes, but resemble them in certain characteristics; they have above all a considerable disposition to blotches, that is to say, to red spots. The chestnuts, according to the predominence of black or brown in their hair, follow the predispositions of these two. There are in reality, as far as the care of the skin is concerned, two essential varieties of skin: 1. The oily skin; 2. The dry skin. The first belongs preferably to the brunettes, the second to the blondes, although the latter may have an equally oily skin. Oily skins.-For oily skins which have less tendency than the others to wrinkles, it may be necessary to pre- scribe hot water, soaps, alcohol and powders. Hot water either pure or slightly alkaline, gives elasti- city to the skin, quickens the circulation, and makes the muscles contract. The soap dissolves the greasy matter, removes the different products of the secretions and clears the glandular orifices. The alcohol finishes the action of the water and soap, acts as a tonic to the muscles and benefits the skin. The powder absorbs the moisture and grease. Dry skins.-For dry skins cold water, glycerine, greasy substances are needed, but soap should be used as little as possible. These skins do well sometimes on emulsions and aromatic vinegars. The cold water stimulates the blonde skin which is ACCORDING TO AGE 21 dry, as well as the action of the nerves and the glandular secretions. Neutral glycerine dissolves the epidermic detritus, excites the glandular secretions and braces the skin. Greasy substances aid the secretions and assist their action by preventing the drying of the epidermis, as well as scaling and reddening of the skin. Powders, hot water and alcohol do not agree with dry skins, because they dry it even more, shrivel it and pro- duce peeling, accompanied by congestion and redness. It is the same with soaps, which cause localized peeling and general scaling. The reds, and the chestnuts according as they approach to the brunette or the blonde, should use the same care. Sedentary occupations tend to bring on seborrhoea and erythema on account of the bent attitude; above all, cor- sets or clothing worn too tight will obstruct the circula- tion. Life in the open air on the contrary, quickens all the glandular functions, augments the greasy seborrhoea and acne. It results from the standpoint of hygiene, that all excesses, particularly sudden changes of temperature, must be avoided. This explains why the skin of those residing in cities, who attend balls, etc., cracks, fades, dries and wrinkles, while that of persons living in the country is made more brilliant by the life in the air and the sun. Hence to avoid the second trouble, all the following means must be employed: Veils to protect from the air, the dust and the sun; light applications of creams against the air, the sun and the variations of tempera- ture. 22 HYGIENE OF THE FACE On general principles, it is one of the worst practices constantly to use face powder when there is no indica- tion for its use on account of a moist or greasy state of the skin, as its particles obstruct the orifice of the sebaceous and sweat glands and leads to a change of the skin, finally causing erythema and wrinkles. Powder should only be employed to dry the skin, and must be wiped off immediately after its application, unless there are special indications for not doing so. Diet plays an equally important part in the condition of the face, the clearness and freshness of the com- plexion. Brunettes with a greasy skin, with an active circula- tion have in general a greater appetite. They must be careful about their food, avoiding everything that might lead to an exaggeration of the local circulation and con- gestions, causes of eruptions. Too much or too rich food tends to the production of greasy seborrhoea, that is, to a greasy, moist appearance of the face, finally to acne. Alcohol, liquors, meat in excess, fish and crusta- ceous and all highly spiced food is forbidden them. Blondes are less subject than brunettes to the incon- veniences of a stimulating diet. With them, it is more nervous excitements than gastro-intestinal troubles that they must avoid, because the nerves act more on the skin of the blondes. They are equally less sensitive to the variations of temperature. It would be poor practice if, even for apparently quite local trouble, no account were taken of the general condition, as most diseases of the organs or of the organic system have their reaction on the skin, particu- larly on the skin of the face. All disorders of the diges- ACCORDING TO AGE 23 tion, particularly of the large intestine, lead to troubles of the complexion. Muco-membranous enteritis and constipation take first place. Secondly troubles of the genito-urinary functions react upon the systems in several ways: 1st. By insufficient or irregular menstruation pre- venting a normal purification of the circulation; 2nd. By the reaction of the digestive organs; 3rd. By the nervous phenomena which accompany them and produce nervousness and genital neurasthenia, always contemporary or secondary to vaginal affections, or those of the uterus and ovaries. Hence the absolute necessity in the hygiene and treat- ment of diseases of the face, to take account of the state of the digestion, of the genital organs and of the nervous system, and to assure the regular working of these organs by appropriate treatment, at once medical, moral and even social. Hydropathy, hot or cold in the form of general douches, has an excellent effect. Such are the principal data concerning preventive hygiene in the sexual period. To it should be added a chapter relative to the influence of the mental upon the physical. Naturally it is the physician's part to act upon the physical. To the patient herself, to her family and to society in general, to act upon the mind. In the sexual period among women, the hygienic care of the face while pregnant, should be directed to the possible appearance of pigmentations called chloasma or signs of pregnancy. These pigmentations depending on the nature of the complexion, are often difficult to prevent, they are more often found among brunettes than among blondes, and above all with those whose 24 HYGIENE OF THE FACE liver is sensitive. The treatment consists in the use of lotions containing borax, benzoin, rose-water, glycerine, toilet vinegars, peroxide of hydrogen, and milk of almonds, which may lessen or prevent chloasma. To this must be joined the medical treatment of the liver. CRITICAL PERIOD. FROM MATURITY TO OLD AGE. It is difficult to assign any limits to the critical period; it commences earlier or later according to the individual; it shows itself by: Erythema. The flaccidity and dryness of the skin; The presence of wrinkles; The presence of pigmentary spots or warts; The whitening and falling of the hair. This period among women, precedes, accompanies or follows the menopause or arrest of menstruation, with- out being in any way connected with it. Among men, it is associated with the diminu- tion of the genital faculties. In both sexes, the critical age is around forty, the critical period is from the fortieth to the sixtieth year; it is followed by the senile period or old age. This period arrives earlier when little care has been given to the skin, or if the subject has local or general maladies, and above all troubles, excitements or illness of the nervous system. The less good the hygienic conditions, the lower the social conditions, the sooner senility shows itself. To this rule, however, there are numerous excep- tions. Work and overindulgence in pleasure are two factors in causing premature old age. ACCORDING TO AGE 25 What must be done during this critical period to pre- vent the aging of the face? Among men, and often among women too, the appear- ance of flat or raised spots, called senile warts mark the beginning of the critical period. As these are generally the result of glandular troubles of the skin, it follows that they can be prevented up to a certain point, by using regularly the means indicated for greasy and dry skins. But in every case rubbing them, pulling them or irri- tating them is prohibited, as this may cause them to become epitheliomata or cancers of the skin. As to the graying and whitening of the hair, dyeing having more inconveniences than advantages, it is best to abstain from all commercial compositions of this kind. Even the very best pharmaceutical mixtures are not exempt from danger. However, the Ultra Violet rays of the Quartz Lamp, if applied early and frequently enough, will in most cases bring back the original color.* Congestion of the face and wrinkles are woman's greatest enemies. Against the appearance of erythema and congestion of the face, it is often necessary to apply sprays of water or very hot lotions. For some years the use of high frequency currents, electricity, massage and scarifying has helped to cure the congestions in part, or at least to reduce them. Outside of these means, the prevention of congestion consists in not wearing tight clothing, in hygiene, in the regulation of the digestive and genito-urinary functions; in a word, in avoiding everything causing local or general congestion. *See "Loss of Hair and its Treatment by the new Quartz Light Rays," published by William R. Jenkins Co., New York. 26 HYGIENE OF THE FACE Wrinkles are creases or ruts more or less deep, formed in the skin by the effect of time, or by the repeated action of certain muscular contractions, or as the result of faulty nutrition. They are to a certain degree the visible proofs of the sentiments and sensations, which have been the most often experienced. They result from the diminution of the tone of the skin and muscles, the skin stretching and the muscles not working any more. They are found in those parts of the face which are most mobile, around the eyes, upon the chin, between the lips, the nose and the cheeks. The following are the most frequent and the most characteristic wrinkles: Transverse wrinkles of the forehead: normal among men after forty years of age, pathological among infants who are cachectic, rachitic or idiotic. Vertical wrinkles of the forehead: normal after forty years and among brain workers. Arched or crossed wrinkles of the forehead: prema- ture, they are related with physical or moral suffering. Crows-feet: premature before forty years, first sign of old age. Formed by divergent wrinkles at the outer angle of the eyes. Wrinkles of the nose: transverse or downward, due to old age. Naso-labial wrinkles: from the corners of the nose to the angle of the mouth, premature and often hereditary. Wrinkles geno-mental: from the cheeks to the chin. Wrinkles dense and crossed, over all the face, sign of senility and decrepitude. Palpebral wrinkles, upon the eyelids, giving the eyes ACCORDING TO AGE 27 an air of lassitude, frequent among the genitally over- worked, at the time of menstruation and among those with uterine diseases. Wrinkles come sooner with men. They are also seen early and abundantly among nervous people, and the emaciated of both sexes, and generally among those sub- ject to passion or of an intense psychical life. Before speaking of the means for preventing or palli- ating wrinkles, I desire to call attention to one point in particular. Children and young people are allowed to make faces, indeed are taught to make them. Their atti- tudes and their expressions are not sufficiently super- vised. They are permitted to become round shouldered because of a wrong position while sitting or not having sufficient light for working by, and at the same time they make faces. Also they contort their faces just for fun, for mimicry, or when they tell untruths, and thus the folds are made gradually, and are the forerunners of future wrinkles. Can wrinkles be prevented? Wrinkles are connected with the want of tonicity of the skin, that itself being connected with feebleness of the nervous functions, with the atrophy of the glands and muscles and the disappearance of the fat. Therefore, the functions of the glands of the skin must be stimulated and the muscles toned up. It is necessary to increase the fat, if it is decreasing; in certain cases persons must be made to take on fat. Wrinkles being often the expression of what preoccu- pies one, of the sentiments and passions, everything that disturbs the quietude of life should be avoided. These means are beyond the reach of most of us. According HYGIENE OF THE FACE 28 to Mantagazza, the famous expert on Cosmetics, in order to prevent wrinkles: the face must be kept still, oily substances must be applied, and it must be protected from the rays of the sun and the variations of tempera- ture. But when wrinkles have come, what can be done ? Massage has been much vaunted. It is, in fact, of advantage to regulate the circulation, to facilitate the glandular secretions and to re-animate the muscular energy. It must be done systematically, and following the position of the muscles and the course of the blood vessels. It requires, therefore, special knowledge. It should be done regularly every day for a month or six weeks and sometimes even for a longer period; no specified time can be given either for the length of the sittings or for the time required for a cure, which will vary according to circumstances, depending on the sub- ject, fatigue, irritation of the skin, profession, etc. With massage is joined local hydropathy, friction, lotions, electricity and sometimes quietude. This immo- bility is obtained by means of bandages. These bandages are coated with compositions slightly astringent, in order to render the tissue firm. They are often replaced by mixtures spread on the forehead or the face and called beauty masks. They are kept on all night, or for a day, and when removed are followed by rubbing with alcohol, local douches and electricity. The electricity is given in the form of continuous cur- rents, interrupted currents, or vibrating massage. By means of a combination of these different processes one can attenuate or diminish wrinkles, but seldom make them disappear altogether. ACCORDING TO AGE 29 I shall just mention in regard to the treatment for wrinkles that, complete sequestration in a dark room in order to avoid all sensations or emotions, sub-cutaneous injections of parafine, enameling the face with special compositions and glazings, are unprofessional and the two latter very dangerous for the skin. HYGIENE ACCORDING TO REGION In the preceding chapters, I have spoken of the hygiene of the face considered in general and according to age. The hairy parts, the eyes, the nose, the ears, the lips require special cares. I have already mentioned in regard to the hairy por- tions, what must be done for the mustache and beard. Very often the scaly condition and suppuration of the mustache are the results of affections of the interior of the nose; therefore, pains must be taken to prevent colds in the head and runnings from the nose, and to treat them promptly. The particular care of the hairy parts are those mentioned for the scalp, but keeping in mind always that the skin of the lips, of the cheeks and chin are more delicate and more susceptible than the scalp. The eyes, above all of the newly born, must be pro- tected from too strong a light, rubbing and dust. The eyes should be bathed twice a day with lukewarm water, which has been previously boiled and cooled, and if there is the least tendency to redness and glueing of the eyelids: cold lotions of camomile tea or boracic water very weak, from 2 to 10 per 100 must be employed. Among older children, the light, and the position of the body while working are of the utmost importance to avoid fatigue of the eyes, conjunctivitis and myopia. The light above all should be sufficient without being 32 HYGIENE OF THE FACE too intense, should come over the left shoulder, and if the child is reading or writing, it should be done at a sloping desk. When a child is convalescing the most stringent care should be given to these points. Reading in bed or by a poor light is one of the causes of redness and swelling of the eyelids. The same is the case when there is want of sleep or when the eyes are employed for fine work. The nose may be red, congested, tumified, moist and greasy, or covered with little comedons. In the formulae on cosmetics each of these con- ditions will be treated. In order to prevent redness of the nose, avoid bending the head when reading or directly after eating; avoid cold feet and constipation, regulate the menses, and above all bathe it with hot water night and morning. A red nose is often the sign of an intra-nasal trouble; this must be treated, as nasal catarrh sometimes provokes eye, ear, and lip troubles. The ears: it is necessary to avoid cleaning the interior by means of hard bodies; after washing them it is best to dry them by means of a piece of fine cotton. Frequently little lumps form in the ear, resulting from the accumulation of cerumen or wax. These lumps which deafen and cause dizziness and pain disappear if, three or four days in succession, peroxide of hydrogen @ 12% is poured in, which must be left in from five to ten minutes, then followed by oil of vaseline warm and slightly carbolized. At the same time they should be washed out twice a day with warm boracic or alkaline lotions. In removing these lumps and thus cleansing the ears, ACCORDING TO REGION 33 the suppurations, or eczematous growths in the passage, which are generally very painful and obstinate, are avoided. The lips are often cracked or split. In order to avoid these inconveniences, they should be bathed in lukewarm water, thoroughly dried and some oily substance applied, as borated glycerine, honey of roses, or a cerate, as is indicated in the cosmetic guide. Dental liquids and pastes, when they are irritant or acid, cause redness and desquamation, fissures and cracks of the lips. Great care must be exercised in the use of these preparations. Affections of the mouth and teeth also affect the lips; there are also general and febrile affections of the lips which necessitate preventive means to avoid their crack- ing and splitting. Finally all contagious diseases, espe- cially those of the mouth, the tongue, the tonsils, the throat, the larynx or the bronchial tubes can be trans- mitted by kissing or by handkerchiefs which have been used for wiping the lips. All persons suffering from any of these troubles should avoid kissing or being kissed, or lending their pocket handkerchiefs. In concluding this rapid sketch on hygiene, I insist upon the importance which handkerchiefs and toilette articles have as agents in the transmission of contagious diseases, particularly diphtheria, syphilis, tuberculosis, and also as agents for the production of diseases of the eyes, the nose and the lips. GENERAL HYGIENE Besides these prescriptions relating especially to hygiene of the face, there must also be taken into con- sideration the prevention of diseases by hygiene in gen- eral. All the visceral or general diseases, the troubles of nutrition, nervous troubles from physical or mental causes, react upon the face. The surroundings, the clothing, the manner of living, all act in the same way. The surroundings.-Either physical or moral. For the greatest number among us, the conditions in which we live, the confined air of rooms, deprivation of sun- shine or the dust and high temperature produced by furnaces or artificial lights, all add their noxious effects to that of want of air. This is followed by a poor action of the glands of the skin, hence the necessity of friction, of baths and douches. The daily use of hydropathy, and the exercise of sports, by preference in the open air, are most useful. Among the sports I would mention horseback riding, football and the bicycle for men; croquet, tennis for women; walking, climbing, canoeing and automobiling for both. During all exercises in the open air, women, if they are anxious about their complexion, should be on their guard against the sun, the air and variations of temperature, always remembering that there is no pret- tier complexion however, than that which is accustomed to brave the seasons and the climate. 36 HYGIENE OF THE FACE The style of life.-The moral surroundings, (the social life, the emotions, the passions, the cares and troubles), affect by their agitations the nutrition of the skin and predispose to wrinkle prematurely, and by overwork lead to emaciation and its consequences. Hence, the influence of the education and manner of life upon the preservation of the youth of the face. I consider the life of the drawing-room the most injurious, when begun too early or indulged in too much; it fades and dries the skin and causes premature wrinkles. All sorts of excitements indulged in too often have the same bad effect on the circulation, the nerves and the nutrition in general. The clothing.-Many erythemata of the young, sebor- rhoea or desquamation of the face and acne, have their origin in the troubles of the circulation arising from clothes or corsets worn too tight, or waist drawn in too much, especially when joined to sedentary work in confined air, overdoing of social life, or excitement of the emotions and passions too early and loo much. Tight garters lead to varicose veins through inter- ference with the veinous circulation, and to a flushed and congested face. Diet.-This must vary according to the sex, the age, the manner of life, the state of the health, etc. On principle it is necessary to subordinate the quality and quantity of the food to the waste, in order to avoid the accumulation and its consequences, the principal of which is arthritis with its eruptions: prurigo, eczema, erythema, dry and oily seborrhoea and acne. Also to overeating, particularly of meat, and to want of exercise, must be attributed constipation and colitis, which often lead to appendicitis. Women (except in GENERAL HYGIENE 37 cases where through professional or other reasons they have much waste, especially through bodily exercise, or during pregnancy) ought to take less nourish- ment than men, or should take less nourishing food, excess of food causing among them erythema and acne. The age should also be a guide for the normal amount of alimentation. While nursing children, in order to avoid prurigo, rashes, eczema or its complications, the diet must be regulated. The rations for the very young should be calculated to correspond to the normal weight 100 grammes of mother-milk or of cow's milk for each kilogramme of the child's weight, or 10 grammes to 100 grammes. Everything being the same, this ration may be increased in cold climates, in winter, and in high lati- tudes ; diminished in the same proportion in opposite conditions. The same directions should be observed at the time of weaning a child; the food becoming more abundant and more varied, according to the development of the child, at the time of dentition, with the increase of weight and size. For the youth and adult, overfeeding must be equally avoided, as it is the cause of appendicitis. Besides, everything difficult of digestion must be abstained from, particularly foods which ferment easily (fish, crustaceans, game which has been kept till it gets a high flavor, canned food), acids, spices and condiments (pepper, mustard, pickles, gherkins). Salted food, pork, greasy food, certain vegetables which act upon the kidneys (sorrel, rhubarb, tomatoes), certain fruits which cause nettlerash (particularly straw- 38 HYGIENE OF THE FACE berries) ought to be avoided by those with sensitive skins. Other things also to be taken into consideration relating to diet, are: the predisposition, professional obli- gations, the necessity of special cures in regard to arthritis, obesity or emaciation. For old people, the food should be reduced to a mini- mum and come near to that of a baby's. The best criterion in the indication of a good diges- tion, are regular bowels and good sleep. If constipation exists it must be overcome; it is indeed the factor in circulatory troubles of the abdomen, and is frequently the predisposing cause of diseases of the face and in particular of erythema, seborrhoea and acne. In concluding this chapter it may be said that a healthy complexion is only found with a healthy body. COSMETICS CARE OF BEAUTY, ART OF BEAUTIFYING Cosmetics constitute one of the means (chemical, physical, or medico-chirurgical) employed to preserve and heighten beauty, to give the appearance of beauty, to improve the looks by correcting the imperfections and hiding the failings. It is particularly for the care and the hygiene of the face that cosmetics are employed, a branch of pharmaceutics, which has fallen into the domain of persons whose methods are outside of the regular medical profession. The remedies ordinarily used under the general name of Cosmetics are not only dangerous for the skin, but have also caused fatal cases of poisoning; and it must not be ignored by the physician that a woman often makes use of detrimental means, which she considers necessary to captivate, or to attract and hold him whom she loves. The study of cosmetics is divided into three parts: I. Chemical cosmetics. II. Physical and Mechanical cosmetics. III. Medico-Surgical cosmetics. CHEMICAL COSMETICS ART OF THE PERFUMER. The following are the varieties of (chemical) cos- metics : Liquids. Toilet Waters. Lotions. Milks Alcohols. Vinegars. Dyes. Paints. Solids. Preparations of Glycerine. Creams and Solid Paints. Jellies. Cerates and Pomades. Ointments and Balsams. Soaps. Powders, Veloutines, Papers Dyes and paints, which are generally dangerous and poisonous for the skin, will be considered separately. LIQUID COSMETICS. Liquid cosmetics cleanse, render firm and strengthen the skin. They overcome its shininess, greasiness, scales and wrinkles. All fluid cosmetics having for their base alcohol, glycerine and vinegar, will dry the skin in time. TOILET WATERS. Indications.-These are used for cleansing and soft- ening the skin; they preserve its suppleness, clear the complexion and prevent wrinkling. HYGIENE OF THE FACE 42 Toilet waters properly so-called are solutions or sub- stances dissolved in pure water with the addition of alco- hol or glycerine, chemical antiseptics or modifying mix- tures. Pure water.-This is the best of all cosmetic waters: if it is chalky, borate of soda or a few drops of ammonia may be added to it. It is preferable to have it boiled. It is generally best to use it lukewarm, hot if the skin is greasy, cold if dry. Rain water is supposed to have excellent properties for the preservation of the complexion. Antiseptic waters.-Sterilized water to which borate of soda has been added (2 per 100 boric acid), formol, essences or perfumes, coal tar or similar preparations with soap as a base. Modifying waters.-Water with the addition of ben- zoin, alcoholic solutions, camphorated alcohol, bi-car- bonate and carbonate of soda. Thermal waters: Alka- line, sulphurous, arsenical, copper holding; particularly Vichy, etc., are types of natural modifying waters. Distilled waters.-Water obtained by steam distilla- tion of plants. They are endowed with antiseptic properties, are alter- ative and astringent: rose water, orange flower water, cherry laurel, lavender waters, etc. They are used especially for toning up, removing oil, and clearing the complexion. They may be used pure or with the addition of boiled water or other preparations of liquid cosmetics. Among the distilled waters, rose water is most used. Mixed with neutral glycerine or some other of the cos- metical preparations, such as sweet and bitter almonds, LIQUID COSMETICS 43 benzoin, borax, peroxide of hydrogen, it gives to these preparations a softening and astringent effect. It helps to preserve the brilliancy of the complexion. All these distilled waters must be used fresh. Peroxide of hydrogen.-Peroxide of hydrogen con- tains from 4 to 12 parts of oxygen. The one most in use has 10 parts. It must be kept from the air and light. This water being very acid is consequently very irritating to the skin. It must be neutralized by the addition of borate or bi-carbonate of soda, at the rate of 10 grammes to a quart of water. It is a disinfectant and endowed with bleaching properties, which explains its indication in all cases of discoloration of the skin. For its use as a cosmetic 1 to 10 parts of boiled water is added to it, according to whether it is wished to obtain an alterative or antiseptic action. LOTIONS. Lotions are made of animal, mineral or vegetable products, either natural or mixed with pure water, dis- tilled aromatic water, alcohol or glycerine. They are generally applied by dipping sterilized cotton into them, which is passed over the face several times, tapping it gently or spreading it on. Animal lotions.-Milk, honey, egg (white or yellow), lanolin. Bouillons are also used, particularly that made from veal. Vegetable lotions.-Sap of plants or herbs, lemon or orange juice, sap of the fig, fresh cucumbers, straw- berries crushed, potatoes (the pulp of potatoes boiled in water and lukewarm), water of marsh mallows, of let- tuce, camomile, bran, of beans, spinach and plantain. These lotions, acid (lemons) or emollient (most of 44 HYGIENE OF THE FACE them), act upon the congestive condition of the skin. They clear the complexion. Mineral lotions.-These take the place of washes and have as their base vaseline, glycerine and mineral essence. They must not be used near a fire, and must be made of pure neutral substances. White vaseline agrees with dry skins, glycerine and the essences with greasy skins; they do not irritate easily or not at all. Usually these lotions are not used in a natural state, but in the form of creams, glycerates or ointments. ALCOHOLIC LOTIONS PROPERLY CALLED TOILETTE VINEGARS. Cosmetic waters are macerations, alcoholic solutions either pure or mixed with water (hydroalcoholics), or are distillations of essences and perfumes. The principal perfumes or essences are: 1. Vegetable essences.-Acacia, bergamot, lemon, cassia, cinnamon, geranium, stock, heliotrope, iris, laven- der, marjoram, mint, orange, carnation, roses, rosemary, thyme, vanilla. 2. Animal perfumes.-Amber, castoreum, civet, musk; 3. Artificial perfumes.-Of natural or chemical origin (synthetic perfumes). 4. The balsams, resins and gums.-Benzoin, Peruvian bark, nutmeg-butter, tolu. To them are added: Products of animals: Honey, etc. Chemical or medicinal substances: Peroxide of hydrogen, ammonia, etc. Fatty substances: Oils and glycerines. The typical toilet water is eau de Cologne. LIQUID COSMETICS 45 Alcohol acts as a tonic to the skin, removes oil, but in the end dries it and makes it peel, predisposing it to hyperaemia and wrinkles; this is the reason that oily substances must be employed as correctives. Here are two useful indications for the use of toilet waters with a base of alcohol in the cleansing of the face: Greasy skins: with a tendency to acne (for brunettes especially and for blondes with oily skins) : 1. Pass over the face with a piece of tine linen some greasy substance (vaseline, lanolin, glycerine, creams) ; 2. Dry with cotton or piece of fine linen dipped in an alcoholic toilet water; 3. Follow with a light powdering; 4. Wipe to remove the superfluous powder. Dry skins: with a tendency to scaling and congestion (blondes and reds especially) : 1. Wipe with the alcoholic lotion ; 2. Dry and powder; 3. Wipe with a piece of fine linen dipped in a neutral and non-irritant oily substance. 4. Wipe off the excess of oil. It is to be preferred that those having a dry skin should avoid the use of powder, which interferes with the respiration of the skin. TOILET VINEGARS. Toilet vinegars are preparations with a base of vinegar, it may be either natural or acetic acid, to which is added alcohol, perfumes, resins and a color. On account of the acetic acid which they contain, toilet vinegars act as a tonic, stimulating the circulation and 46 HYGIENE OF THE FACE removing oil and scales. They are, therefore, efficacious in preventing wrinkles, hyperaemia and herpes. But because of the alcohol, resins and benzoin which they contain, they may make the skin peel. They must, therefore, be much diluted before using (one or two tea-spoonfuls in the toilet water), and as a corrective they should be followed by an application of oil or fat. VIRGINAL MILKS. These owe their name to their milky appearance. They are emulsions, that is to say, mixtures of greasy bodies with alcohol; antiseptic and astringent. Most of them have resin for a base. Almost always benzoin which has some antiseptic properties enters into their composition, and some quillaya, under the form of a tincture, which dissolves the greasy substances and produces the emulsion. Virginal milks soften the skin and are antiseptic, but because of the presence of resin, they have an astringent and drying action. Their correctives are the alkaline fats: neutral vase- line, and lanolin. They are particularly indicated for dry skins, for redness, hyperaemia, blotches on the skin and granular acne of the menopause, and as preventives or pallia- tives of wrinkles. Distilled waters enter into the composition of these virginal milks (rose-water, cherry-laurel water, bitter almond), also fats (glycerine, wax, spermaceti, oils, lanolin), soaps, antiseptics (boric acid, borates, sali- cylic acid). SOLID COSMETICS 47 Cosmetic oils are: animal, vegetable, mineral. They are used pure or mixed with alcohol, glycerine and essences.-These mixtures are called brilliantines. Homogeneous brilliantines have, as a base, castor oil dissolved in alcohol of 90° or 95°, or glycerine mixed with perfumed alcohol. Non-homogeneous brilliantines have for their base oil of vaseline mixed with alcohol. They must be shaken before using. Brilliantines are used in the care of the hair and beard. They supply the absence of the sebaceous and sweat- gland secretions. They lubricate the hair and render it more pliable and brilliant. Because of the alcohol which they contain, they have after prolonged use a drying effect; the hair splits and falls out, therefore, their use must not be overdone. COSMETIC OILS AND BRILLIANTINES. SOLID COSMETICS. Solid cosmetics vary from a fluid consistency resem- bling liquids and especially oils, almost to absolute firm- ness. It depends upon whether solid substances, par- ticularly powders, enter into their composition. Creams owe their names to their consistency and color, which resembles the cream of milk. Creams have as their base greasy bodies and watery solutions. It is to their richness in water that the creams owe their non-irritant action and are often softening. According to the nature of the greasy body which they contain, creams may be divided thus: Fatty creams, dry creams and indifferent creams. HYGIENE OF THE FACE 48 Fatty creams.-They have as their base lanolin, vaseline, stearate of soda and potash. Dry creams (glycerized).-Have as their base glycer- ised starch only, or are mixed with soap, gelatine, cu- cumber cream. Indifferent creams.-Have as base, sapolan, lanolin and similar ingredients. With these different fats are incorporated powders and antiseptic substances (salicylic and boracic acid) and perfumes. When the consistency of the cream is increased with wax, they constitute cold creams. In all creams distilled waters may be incorporated (rose-water, cherry-laurel water), in order to increase their antiseptic and softening action. Creams in general are one of the best cosmetics for the face; they preserve the brilliancy and purity of the skin and complexion, making the skin firmer and thus at the same time prevent wrinkling; they act besides upon scales by preventing peeling of the skin; they also serve to retain the powder. Too prolonged use of creams may lead to drying and makes the skin flaccid; for this reason it is best to use it only after the morning toilet and to wipe the face lightly after using. There will remain enough on it to beautify the skin and give it what is needed. Fatty creams agree with skins subject to hyperemia, and with blondes who have dry skins, Cheeseborough's neutral white vaseline is often used pure or with the addi- tion of oxyde of zinc in small quantities. Dry creams (glycerines) are useful for greasy, red, congested skins, for granular acne and for blondes with greasy skins. SOLID COSMETICS 49 The glycerates should be prepared with neutral glycerine and wheat starch. They do not lend them- selves to the addition of distilled waters, but they can be incorporated by means of the tincture of quillaya saponaria. At the same time this tincture facilitates the addition of oil of sweet almonds, oil of gomenol, cocoa- nut butter, cucumber ointment and an amount of astrin- gent products, strengthening or antiseptic, according to the action desired The glycerates are the foundation of the creams of commerce. The glyceroles are made from glycerine held in solu- tion and especially medicinal substances in suspension, of antiseptic or astringent compounds. These are rather jellies. Indifferent creams agree in general with all skins ; they are indicated particularly for irritable skins, inclined to eczema, or which are subject to eruptions, and when oily or dry creams cannot be borne. It is to be noted that the base of these creams is sapolan, lanolin, oleo-calcareous liniment and similar substances. These different substances have the advan- tage that they can be mixed together or with glycerates, are soluble in water, and can be easily removed with warm water. Diadermine is a soft glycerine soap, is adhesive, neu- tral, non absorbable, soluble in water and mixes with both solids and liquids. Sapolan is a pharmaceutical compound, consisting of: 60 per cent, of a mixture of naphthol, naphthaline, creosote, phenol, (produced by distillation of red naphtha of Galicia). 1 part and a half or 37 per cent, of lanolin; 3 to 4 per cent, of anhydrous soap. 50 HYGIENE OF THE FACE It looks like vaseline; absorbs liquids, mixes with equal parts both of distilled and lead water. It is much used in medicated creams. Lanolin, extract of the suet of sheep, is neutral, has little odor; there are two varieties of it, lanolin anhy- drous and lanolin hydrated, which contains 25 per cent, of water. Lanolin penetrates the skin easily. Mixed with vase- line and pure or distilled water in equal parts, it forms an excellent excipient for incorporating greatly differ- ing substances. Oleo-calcareous liniment is formed of a mixture of equal parts of lime water and sweet almond oil. This mixture, a kind of soap made of liquid chalk, can be mixed with the above substances. With the addi- tion of lanolin and inert powders, it constitutes an excel- lent base for creams. COLD CREAMS AND CERATES. Cold creams and cerates are very closely related. Cerates stand between cold creams and ointments. Both, formerly much used, have been less employed since the introduction of mineral fats into cosmetics, as these do not, like the former, become so quickly rancid and do not irritate and dry the skin by closing the glandular outlets. Cold Creams are composed of wax, with spermaceti, oil of sweet almonds, rosewater, with or without the addition of cocoa butter and glycerine. They resemble creams, but differ from them by the absence of powder. Benzoin is added in order to preserve them. To give them the color of the skin eosine is added. SOLID COSMETICS 51 Cerates have as their base animal or vegetable oil and wax. They differ from cold creams by having different solid substances incorporated with them. They cannot be mixed with fluids, which distinguishes them from creams. They act like creams but are more adhesive. They are used as a foundation for paints. Cold creams do not agree with all skins. After pro- longed use they dry and wrinkle them. Ointments which are rarely used in cosmetics, but prin- cipally for skin diseases, are mixtures of oils, fats, ethers, wax and glycerines. As modifying agents, distilled water, glycerine, essences, balsams, resins, and chemical as well as medi- cinal substances are added. They may be perfumed and colored according to taste and the purpose for which they are to be used. Their action depends upon their preparation and com- position. On principle they suit dry skins best, unless they contain medicaments indicated in particular cases. The best known salve for softening the skin of the face is cucumber ointment, freshly prepared, which may also be used as a base for different preparations. The banana enjoys a similar reputation for softening and strengthening the skin. OINTMENTS. SALVES AND BALSAMS. Salves and balsams are complex preparations closely allied with ointments, 52 HYGIENE OF THE FACE Salves generally have as a base resin, and balsams aro- matic spirits. Medicinal pastes are firm salves, thickened either by the addition of powders, spermaceti or wax. Cosmetic pastes are preparations made of the crushed pits of certain fruits. Almond paste, either dry or liquid, is the one most in use for the face. It has a softening effect. The liquid paste of almonds prevents the evaporation of the perspiration; it cleanses, oils and gives lustre and flexibility to the skin. Combined with rose water and benzoin, it forms one of the best cosmetics for the fresh- ening of the complexion. PASTES. JELLIES. Jellies are little used in cosmetics. They have as their base caseine (albumin of milk), or gelatine and grenetine (bone-extract). They are mixed with glycerine, creams, fats and with inert or medicinal powders. They are very softening to the skin, for which they form a protecting coating. They also prevent conges- tion. SOAPS. Soaps are the foundation of all hygiene of the face, cleanliness being the point of departure for health. Soaps are mixtures of fats and alkaline lyes. In order not to be injurious for the skin they ought to be neutral. SOLID COSMETICS 53 Soap dissolves the greasy matters of the skin by the action of its fatty substances, and the debris of the epi- dermis by the action of the alkalines of which it is com- posed. But in consequence of the alkaline which it contains, soap if used too much, irritates the skin and makes it dry, sometimes congesting it, particularly with infants or blondes with fine dry skins. Soaps are divided thus: 1. Hard soaps. 2. Soft soaps. 3. Soapy preparations. 1. Hard soaps, overfatted soaps, white soaps, neutral or Castile soap have as their base soda of a very feeble alkaline reaction. They come in the shape of firm, white pastes. They are useful for all, particularly for persons with greasy skins. 2. Soft soaps (green soap, kitchen soap) have for their base potash, contain glycerine and alkali in excess. They come in the shape of soft, dark brown pastes. They are not used for the care of the face. 3. Soapy preparations. These are liquid soaps (soap tinctures), soap in leaves, soap powder, which answer for certain purposes. Tincture of soap mixes with alcohol, with glycerine or water and is used in making certain ointments. Soap leaves are useful when traveling, and powdered soap for shaving. Incorporated with hard soaps, are perfumes and essences, and medicinal substances. They are colored in various ways. Soft soaps are only used medicinally. 54 HYGIENE OF THE FACE Certain skins which secrete much oil, which are inclined to acne or peel much, often require soap; there are others on the contrary, particularly those fine, dry skins, which are easily congested; soap irritates such skins and causes their scaling. Among these latter, the use of softening or medicated soaps is indicated, but it must only be used at intervals and be followed by an application of glycerine, or of a cream and sometimes of powder. Salicylicated, ichtyol, tar, sulphur or sublimated soaps, agree with dry skins; borated and naphtha soaps with a foundation of coal tar are good for oily skins. For irritable skins, glycerated, mild soaps or cocoa butter soap suits best. POWDERS AND VELOUTINES. Powders or veloutines which are of much interest to women, are mixtures of vegetable or of mineral powders, finely pulverized. The inoffensive powders in use are: Wheat starch, corn, rice, powder of almonds deprived of their oil, orris- root, carbonate of magnesia or chalk, talcum, and oxide of zinc. Rice powder is rendered more unctuous and softer by the addition of talcum. Its adherent qualities are increased by a proportion of 20 per cent, of oxide of zinc. They are scented with various essences. The pink powders are colored with carmine and eosine; for yellow powders yellow ochre is used, as well as Sienna clay and Bismark brown. SOLID COSMETICS 55 Rice powders are very often adulterated and thus ren- dered injurious, because they then contain phosphate of chalk, alabaster, plaster, sa1t of bismuth, white lead, and carbonate of lead. There have been serious accidents caused by poisoning from the lead or arsenic which they contain. Rice powder has then an irritating and inflammatory action. It obstructs the orifices of the glands and impedes the respiration of the skin and the escape of the oils and perspiration. It has also been blamed for pro- ducing wrinkles. Should powder be used? It depends principally upon the nature and component parts of the powder. When it contains no harmful ingredients, it may be used according to the needs of the skin. Powder should only be put on when finishing the toilet. For those having greasy skins, powder should be used alone. For those with dry skins, a neutral fat (vaseline, lano- lin, glycerine) should first be used, or one of the creams given above. In any case, as little powder as possible should be used and never before retiring for the night. COSMETIC STICKS. Cosmetic sticks are used in order to make the hair keep in place or to make it shine. They are composed of soaps, wax, gum, scented and colored like the soaps. These are solid brilliantines. 56 HYGIENE OF THE FACE I have purposely left the dyes and paints till the last, because these products are not hygienic at all. Paint should be entirely abandoned if it were not that coquetry and social obligations make some people desirous to look as if they were not growing old, and with others there is the necessity of looking young. But it must be remembered that with those predisposed to affections of the skin, dyes produce long continuing and painful eruptions, bring on eczema, without taking into consideration the accidents from poisoning. Paints, if they give to some the illusion of being as they would like to be, are with others a professional necessity, among actors for instance, who are forced to make themselves up. Paints injure the skin very rapidly and age it, hence they must be kept on as short a time as possible, in order to prevent their bad effects; afterwards a soothing and softening application should be made. DYES AND PAINTS. DYES. Before applying dyes, it should be ascertained that there exists no irritation or eruption of the skin of the face or other parts of the body. First a soapy alkaline wash should be used to cleanse and remove the grease; for this, take 20 grammes of Panama wood to one quart of water, to which has been added a teaspoon of green soap and 5 to 10 grammes of carbonate of soda; then dry carefully. Sedative water or ammonia should never be used, as they may produce, in connection with the dye, a toxic mixture. DYES AND PAINTS 57 Then apply the dye avoiding touching the skin. Dyes may be divided into vegetable and chemical. Vegetable dyes.-These are inoffensive, but not prac- tical. They do not adhere well, except those of light shade. They are: Light colored dyes.-Henna, a decoction of fever fuge or Swiss camomile; a decoction of tea. Dark colored dyes.-Gall nuts, walnut water, tannin, China ink. Chemical dyes.-These are usually dangerous. Their application is difficult and must be done in two relays; first one application, then a second. The chemical dyes also can only be applied gradually, as they do not give any results until after they have been acted on by the air. The principal chemical dyes are: Light colored dyes.-Peroxide of hydrogen, the least dangerous, but results in breaking the hair and causing it to fall out. Brown dyes.-Based on metallic salts: lead, silver, bis- muth manganese. PAINTS. Paints of necessity must be adherent; they are used in the form of powders, liquid coatings, or creams. Paints containing vermillion (sulphur of mercury) or carbonate of lead are the most dangerous. The coloring matter of paints is obtained from flowers of carthame, the juice of the beetroot, carmine, cochineal for the red ones; Prussian and ultramarine blue, for the blue; with lamp black, animal black or Indian ink for the black. 58 HYGIENE OF THE FACE The following- are the component parts of paints: Paint powders.-Like rice powders. Liquid paints.-They are composed of distilled waters, glycerine and perfumes, to these are added the powders mentioned before. Paints as creams.--Like the glycerates, creams and ointments. Paints are used not only for the face, but also for the eyes and the hands. For the eyes, like the Orientals, kohol is used; for the lips, preparations in the form of sticks or pencils, hav- ing for their base cocoa butter and wax with the addi- tion of oil of sweet almonds, honey of roses, and gly- cerine, and colored more or less pink, with carmine or eosine. PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL COSMETICS. These are physical cosmetics in use for the preserving and beautifying of the face, a series of means, physical and mechanical, which are: (1) Hydrotherapy, friction and packs; (2) Massage; (3) Electric treatment. HYDROTHERAPY, FRICTION, PACKS. Hydrotherapy has for its object the soothing and allaying of congestions, cleansing or stimulating the skin. This object is attained by giving to the skin the moisture in which it is wanting, by stimulating the secre- tions of the glands and the circulation. In order to bring about these effects lotions, sprays, douches and wet packs are employed. Lotions.-These are made of various toilet waters, alcohol, or vinegars, applied by the aid of cotton dipped in them, and are followed by applications of creams or powders, according to the indications. Sprays.-Sprays are either simple or medicated. The simple sprays are of toilet waters and vinegars, mineral or thermal waters. Cold sprays act as a tonic for the skin; hot sprays have a cleansing effect and reduce congestion. The latter are best done with a steam vaporiser. The spraying should not begin until a good stream of vapor is established. The patient should be placed eight 60 HYGIENE OF THE FACE inches from the instrument. Twenty minutes is the longest time allowable for each spraying. The surround- ing parts of the face must be protected by towels. Douches.-Can be applied in the form of jets, sprays or showers, cold or hot. Cold jets cause muscular contraction and prevent wrinkling. Hot jets act against local congestions which accom- pany acne. In the form of cold showers, dry, pale and scaly skins are benefited. Hot sprays promote the circulation, overcome flushes of the face and help to remove oily secretions and excess of perspiration. Cold and hot sprays in succession are good where a multiple effect is needed. On principle it is advisable to end with the cold spray. The douche is most effective after massage, while vaporising should preferably be used before it. Wet Packs.-They are indicated in every case of acne where congestion and swelling are present, or where there is an oily secretion accompanied with little crusts. In a word in every case where cleansing, cooling and calming are needed. They are made with compresses boiled in water, ster- ilized cotton, or antiseptic lint soaked in medicinal solu- tions. The packs will have no effect unless the compresses, etc., are kept moist by covering them with oiled silk or rubber tissue. Cold packs reduce congestion; hot packs soften and soothe the parts. The use of the pack should be followed by spraying, or GENERAL MASSAGE 61 by a lotion or douche, and afterwards, according to the effect to be obtained, by an application of cream, powder or ointment. MASSAGE. GENERAL MASSAGE OF THE FACE, TONIC MASSAGE. Massage of the face has been employed since time immemorial, either in the form of auto-massage, that is, massage done by the person herself, or by employing some one else. The process of massage for the face is the same as that for other parts of the body, always using a certain gentleness. The different procedures are: Gently stroking, press- ing, kneading, patting, beating, pinching and shaking the skin. 1. Grazing or gently stroking.-Consists in passing the cushions of the fingers over the skin in a series of cir- cular movements. The thumb rests firmly in one place, while the four fingers make these movements. 2. Pressing.-This movement is the same as the for- mer, only executed with more force. The pressure must follow the course of the vessels and the direction of the muscles. 3. Kneading.-Consists in picking up the skin between the thumb and the other fingers, following the direction of the muscles; or leaving the four fingers at rest and using the thumb for going deeply into the skin. 4. Patting.-Is done by the four fingers which move over the skin as a pianist moves his fingers over the keys of the piano. The thumb remains at rest. This form of massage stimulates the circulation. HYGIENE OF THE FACE 62 5. Beating.-The four fingers beat upon the skin together, the thumb remains at rest. This treatment allays local congestion. 6. Pinching.-The thumb, index and middle fingers pick up a fold of the skin firmly and release it suddenly, as an archer releases the arrow from his bow. 7. Shaking.-This is a succession of quick pinches; done by seizing the skin firmly between the thumb and four fingers. The pinching and shaking act upon the muscles. TECHNIQUE OF MASSAGE. Massage should be preceded by washing, or by using lotions or the vaporiser on the face. The subject should be comfortably seated in an arm- chair. The operator, according to the parts to be treated, or the stage of the treatment, is either to the right or left, before or behind the person to be treated. The head of the patient is placed against the chest of the operator. Massage should never be done without the use of lubricants. For persons with oily skins talcum powder is best suited to facilitate the movement of the fingers. For those with dry skins vaseline is best. Where wrinkles are to be treated by massage the fol- lowing mixture give good results: Beef marrow 20 grammes Oil of sweet almonds 45 Spermaceti 20 White wax 2 Essence of lemon 1 Ac. Salicylic 0.25 " GENERAL MASSAGE 63 Whatever the material used, the face must be wiped free of it after the massage is over. It is followed by a tonic lotion for pale and dry skins, an astringent for wrinkles, a stimulant for flushed faces, a lotion or a douche for acne; then a cream, salve or powder should be applied. According to the object of the massage, it should follow the direction of the blood vessels, where there is absence of secretion in dry skins and in facial conges- tion ; it should follow the folds of the skin and direction of the muscles, where wrinkles are to be obliterated; it must follow the distribution of the glands on forehead, chin and cheeks where acne and oily seborrhoea are in evidence. The treatment should not last more than from ten to twenty minutes. It may be repeated every day or every second day according to the object to be attained. The interval between treatments should not be more than from six to eight days. Massage of the face should not be permitted where the subject is suffering from any general illness, has an inflammatory disease, suppuration of the skin or moist eczema. REGIONAL MASSAGE OF THE FACE. The following are the movements to be made accord- ing to the different parts of the face. Forehead.-Thumbs under and in front of the ears. The free fingers execute alternately transverse and zig- zag movements, directed from the middle of the fore- head to the temples and from the point where the hair ends to a line going over the eyes and nose. 64 HYGIENE OF THE FACE Massage of nose.-This is done with the thumbs in same position as before with the aid of one or two fingers of each hand moving simultaneously, or seizing the nose between thumb and index finger. The move- ments start from the root of the nose going in the direc- tion of the nostrils, spread out towards the lips if it is a case of acne or wrinkles, but going from the nostrils towards the forehead and spreading to the cheeks when erythema, or congestion or redness of the nose is treated. Cheeks.-The thumbs are placed below the chin on each side of the median line. The fingers of each hand execute movements starting from the nose and going towards the lower jaw in cases of acne and congestion of the face; starting from the jaw and going towards the nose when wrinkles or relaxed cheeks are to be improved. Chin.-The thumbs placed on the corner of the lower jaws, the other fingers move from inwards to outwards, from below up for acne and wrinkles • from outwards to inwards, from below up when double chin is to be treated. Eyelids.-This is done exactly as the massage of the forehead, the fingers moving from above down and from inwards to outwards. Special indications.-For interference with the circu- lation (as acne, rosacea, acne vulgaris, scaly skin) mas- sage ought to be practiced along the course of the blood- vessels and preferably from the median line outwards. For folds.-Here the normal furrows or folds of the skin and the direction in which the muscles run, must be followed. The forehead should be stroked, eyes, eye- lids, chin and temples massaged. GENERAL MASSAGE 65 Neck and lip folds or wrinkles.-Grasp and pinch the folds between thumb and index finger from within to outwards. Wrinkles around eyes.-Massage with thumb or with one finger in the direction of the wrinkles. Crows' feet.-Start massage from nose towards temples. Wrinkles of under eyelid.-Go from cheek bone to cor- ner of the eye. Wrinkles on forehead.-Massage in the direction of the wrinkles, going from the nose towards the temple. APPLICATION OF BANDAGES, BEAUTY . MASKS AND MOLDS. Sometimes massage is followed with good results by applying bandages and beauty masks. Bandages made for this purpose are adhesive and are stretched between the borders of the folds in order to efface them. They are to be kept on as long as possible, one night, one day. Beauty masks are cataplasms of astringent and tonic material to be placed upon forehead, cheeks, chin, even over the whole face in some cases. The mold is a form of dry wrapping and compressing, by means of cotton tampons and adhesive strips. The tampons are applied on those parts where pressure is to be exerted to make wrinkles or redness disappear. 66 HYGIENE OF THE FACE Fig. 1. REGIONAL MASSAGE. FOREHEAD. Kneading (indication: acne). The operator stands behind the right shoulder of the subject (Fig. 1). The left hand holds the frontal muscles near the hair line. The four fingers of the right hand rest upon the forehead, while the thumb exerts pressure with zigzag movements from right to left. REGIONAL MASSAGE 67 Fig. 2. FOREHEAD. Smoothing (indication: wrinkles). The operator stands behind the subject (Fig. 2). The thumbs placed above the ears, holding the muscles stretched tight like a piece of leather. At the same time the middle and index fingers of both hands make a glid- ing movement, pressing and smoothing the wrinkles, going from the middle of the forehead towards the temples. 68 HYGIENE OF THE FACE Fig. 3. NOSE. Kneading (indication: acne). The operator stands behind the right shoulder of the subject who turns his head slightly to the right (Fig. 3). The left hand supports the head. The thumb and first finger of the right hand bent at right angles execute light zigzag movements and vibrations going from the point to the root of the nose. REGIONAL MASSAGE 69 Fig. 4. Kneading and pulling back (indication: crows' feet). EYES AND EYELIDS. Standing behind the right shoulder of the subject, the fingers of the left hand hold and stretch the muscles like a piece of leather (Fig. 4). The four fingers of the right hand rest on the chin and the jaw, while the right thumb first makes zigzag movements around the orbit of the eye and upon the eye- lids, then vigorously stretches each wrinkle, going from the temple towards the external angle of the eye. 70 HYGIENE OF THE FACE Fig. 5. Pulling up the upper eyelids (indication: wrinkles and relaxation). UPPER EYELIDS. The operator stands behind the subject; the hands, half closed, support themselves with the knuckles of the three last fingers resting upon the temples and the thumbs placed upon the forehead (Fig. 5). The index fingers make a firm pressure upon the arch of the brow, going from the root of the nose to the external angle of the eye. REGIONAL MASSAGE 71 Fig. 6. LOWER EYELIDS. Massage of the internal angle of the eyes and lower eyelids (indication: wrinkles and swelling under the eyes). The operator again stands behind right shoulder of the subject. The left hand supporting the patient's head (Fig. 6). The right hand is half closed. The back of three fingers and the inner side of the thumb support them- selves upon the jaw. The index fingers move from the back of nose as far as the malar bone. 72 HYGIENE OF THE FACE Fig. 7. LOWER EYELIDS. Vibratory treatment of the inferior eyelids: (wrinkles and swelling). Again the position of the operator is at the back against the right shoulder of the patient (Fig. 7). The palm of the hand rests upon the chin, while the four fingers of the right hand play upon and cause vibra- tions of the lower eyelid and malar region (cheek). REGIONAL MASSAGE 73 Fig. 8. THE LEFT CHEEK. Kneading of left cheek: (acne, laxity and enlarge- ment). Position same as before (Fig. 8). The right hand half closed, the last three fingers rest- ing upon the jaw. Thumb and index finger knead the muscles.in the direction from angle of nose to jaw and reverse. The same is done on the right cheek (Fig. 9). 74 HYGIENE OF THE FACE Fig. 9. RIGHT CHEEK. Kneading of right cheek: (acne, flabbiness). Standing behind the subject's right shoulder (Fig. 9). Both hands, half closed, supported by the palm placed on the temple and jaw, act simultaneously, the thumbs and the first fingers kneading the cheek from the temple down towards the lower jaw. REGIONAL MASSAGE 75 Fig. 10. Simultaneous massage of both cheeks: (acne or wrinkles). BOTH CHEEKS. Operator takes position in front of right shoulder (Fig- 10). The four fingers of both hands supported on the neck near ear and angle of lower jaw. The two thumbs with strong pressure smooth the wrinkles, going from center of face towards the ear. 76 HYGIENE OF THE FACE Fig. 11. ENTIRE FACE. Massage of entire face: (acne, atrophy of cheeks). The operator stands behind subject (Fig. 11). The two thumbs are placed at the back of the head, the fingers of both hands, resting firmly upon the cheeks, between cheek bones and jaw, making hard pressure and vigorous movements. After seven or eight vibrations it is advisable to move them to another point. REGIONAL MASSAGE 77 Fig. 12. LOWER PART OF FACE. Massage of lower part of face: (acne, enlargement). Standing behind subject (Fig. 12) Both hands with the fingers close together move from chin and angle of the mouth towards the ears, pulling hard upon the masseter and temporal muscles. 78 HYGIENE OF THE FACE Fig. 13. UPPER LIP. Massage of the circular muscles of the lips: (acne and folds). The masseur stands in front of patient (Fig. 13). The four fingers of each hand resting upon the jaws, the thumbs lightly stroke the lips from center to cor- ners of the mouth. REGIONAL MASSAGE 79 Fig. 14. CHIN. Massage of chin: (double chin and folds). Placed as illustrated in figure 14. The hands in same position as in figure 13; the two thumbs stroke the chin and the groove between it and lower lip, going up from the middle to the sides. 80 HYGIENE OF THE FACE ELECTRO-THERAPEUTIC TREATMENT. The methods comprise a series of proceedings: Elec- tric massage, electrolysis, cataphoresis, ionisation, action of light, X-rays, radium, Finsen light, etc. Though all of these may be of use in cosmetical treat- ment, they are dangerous and should be left entirely to the physician, who is the only one to choose the right form of electricity and the amount and method in each instance. MEDICO-CHIRURGICAL COSMETICS Only the physician can advise and undertake such treatments. PART II. COSMETIC GUIDE COSMETIC GUIDE The number of prescriptions for cosmetics purposes is very great. Those that are given here are grouped in alphabetical order, according to the purpose for which they are to be used. It has, in most cases, been impossible to give their exact origin, this being difficult to discover, as the authors have copied from one another. Whenever it has been possible to find the author of any of the for- mulas, his name has been mentioned. Also the method of compounding most of the cos- metic mixtures has not been indicated. It requires spe- cial training to make good cosmetics, and often a talent for it, but every pharmacist can prepare good ones if he uses absolutely pure products. Almost all cosmetics in common use are of commercial origin, that is, they are manufactured wholesale for the trade. The physician should not tolerate nor advise their use until their composition is known to him. In order to consult this formulary, it is only neces- sary to look in the alphabetical order, for the name expressing the trouble from which the person is suffer- ing, whether it be a functional one or an affection of the face for which a remedy is sought. Often the word looked for refers to others giving more information on 84 COSMETIC GUIDE the subject. For example, after the word dryness of the skin, one must refer to dry seborrhoea, scales; these may refer again to acne, flushed face, complexion, care or toilet of the face, etc. Thus all directions for the care of the face are found. ACNE.-The treatment of acne belongs more to the realm of medicine than to that of cosmetics. But it may prove of use to mention a few things in reference to it. (Look also for congestion, redness, creams, lotions, seborrhoea, comedons, blackheads, erysipelas, etc.) Acne is an affection resulting either from disease or from functional disorders of the glands of the face due to a deficient elimination or to an abnormal secretion. These conditions again may depend upon a disturbance of the deeper glandular organs of the body (liver, kid- ney lungs) ; troubles of the digestion (dyspepsia, intesti- nal indigestion, constipation) ; alimentary disturbances of a lymphatic or arthritic order; irregularity in the development and function of ovary, uterus and genital organs; finally it may be due also to the nervous system. To these must also be added the toxic acne, iodine acne, and acne due to certain occupations. Acne shows itself in many forms, varying with the subject, the age, the condition of the skin and the excit- ing cause. Those suffering from lymphatic diseases, scrofula, tuberculosis, in latent, active or hereditary form, present many kinds of acne, which are purely conditions to be treated by the physician. These forms of acne are known as acnitis, folliclis, tuberculosis. The age causes acne to assume particular forms. Children rarely present pure forms of acne, but often have seborrhoea or eruptions, itching or prurigos, little ACNE 85 isolated pustules called folliculitis; or diffused, called impetigo, forerunners of acne in the future. Young people suffer from acne with suppuration called pustular or polymorphous acne, from its many forms of pustulations. (Fig. 15.) According to the state of the skin these acnes are accompanied by various symptoms. Fig. 15.-Pustular acne. Upon greasy skins: oily secretions (oily seborrhoea) of great amount; a shiny skin; many blackheads; come- dons; little pointed cicatrices. (Fig. 16.) On dry skins: scales (dry seborrhoea) ; congestions and dilatations of the blood vessels (erythema) ; and pre- mature wrinkles. Elderly people at the time of change of life, especially nervous persons, are affected with a kind of deep acne, called granular. This variety of acne is very rebel- 86 COSMETIC GUIDE lious to treatment, is accompanied by erythema (red face), dry skin and little white spots (epidermic cysts) caused by retention of matter from sweat and sebaceous glands. Fig. 16.-Case of acne. Comedons and black heads seen on forehead, cheeks and chin; the skin is scaling, granular, full of small holes and comedons. All these causes make acne one of the most common affections of the face and one of the most difficult to treat. There is no general treatment for acne, but only a series of methods of treatment which may be grouped thus: ACNE 87 Preventive treatment.-This is entirely medical; it considers the general condition, constitution, heredity, mode of living, illness, local condition, dry or oily skin. The use of well chosen cosmetic remedies may play an important part in its prevention. Therefore, it might be advisable to look up the terms used at the beginning of this article (ACNE). Curative treatment.-This also is medical. The meth- ods of treatment may be divided thus: Pharmacological methods: Comprising internal and external medical treatment. The use of sprays, masks, desquamatory treatment. Medico-chirurgical methods: Cauterizing and scari- fications. Physio-therapeutic methods: Massage; electricity in all its various forms: continuous currents, ionization, electrolysis; light or phototherapy; X-rays; radium. Here follows a specimen treatment of a case of acne. The patient was suffering from the variety called lymphatic acne, was tuberculous by heredity, also ar- thritic, had pustular acne, blackheads, oily secretion, con- gestion and erythematous spots on face, renal and hepatic disorders. 1. Directed to take for six days, every morning, on an empty stomach, one of the pills indicated here below; a second pill half an hour later, and breakfast half an hour after taking the second pill. Jalap Scammony Scilla Calomel aa 0.02 gramme Amygdalin soap Q. S. to make 12 pills. 88 COSMETIC GUIDE While taking these pills no salty food is to be taken, the mouth and particularly the teeth must be kept clean. (Women should wait five days after menstruation before taking these pills.) 2. On the seventh day, 30 to 40 grammes of castor- oil. 3. Two days after taking the castor-oil, begin with this preparation: Cod liver oil 200 grammes Creosote 1 - Take one dessert to one tablespoonful twice a day be- fore meals. If oil or creosote is intolerable to the stomach, medi- cines of similar action must be substituted. 4. Use the following spraying lotion by means of a steam vaporizer, mornings and evenings: Infusion of chamomile flowers, 10 grammes to 1 quart water. Put 60 grammes of this infusion in the vaporizer and add 5 grammes bicarbonate of soda, or sulpho- borate of soda, if the acne is not pustular. If the acne is pustular, use one or two dessert spoon- fuls of this preparation: Sulphate of copper 10 grammes Sulphate of zinc 35 - Camphor 5 - Saffron powder 2 - Steril'ized water 1000 - 5. After the evening spraying, this cream is to be applied: ACNE 89 Glycerate of starch 100 grammes Ichthyol 10 - Resorcin 1 - Sulphur 4 - Camphor 2 - Tincture of quillaya 2 Carbonate of magnesia 20 - Rose water Q. S. to make a thick cream. Spread upon face and cover with sterilized gauze. 6. Next morning remove the cream, rubbing lightly with a piece of fine linen or absorbent cotton, then apply Cheeseborough's white vaseline (if there are black heads). 7. Use the spray again; or still better, if the skin is greasy, rub with an alkaline mixture made of 1 tea- spoonful bicarbonate of soda to a cup of hot boiled water. Or five to ten drops of ammonia in the same quantity of water. If the skin is very oily and covered with pustules, blackheads and comedons, the following solution should be used: /? naphthol 1 gramme Green soap 20 - Spirits of lavender 10 - Alcohol 90% 70 - Perfume-a few drops. If the skin peels, or when there is dryness, scales, use this solution: Tincture of green soap 40 grammes Oil of sweet almonds 20 - Camphorated alcohol 40 - 90 COSMETIC GUIDE Finally, when there is congestion of the face, irrita- bility and flaccidity, after removing the cream apply: Rose water 160 grammes Eau de Cologne .. 100 - Milk of almonds 40 - Salicylic acid 2 -■ Tinct. Benzoin 1 - 8. To finish: If the skin is dry, put on a thin coating of neutral vaseline or some softening cream. If oily, powder with rice powder or any other powder suitable to the complexion. We have given here a specimen of treatment for a complicated case of acne, which treatment proved suc- cessful ; but it must be remembered that the treatment for acne is essentially medical, and must vary with each patient, with the cause, the seat and form of the acne. Here follows a series of prescriptions, which have been thoroughly tested: LOTIONS FOR ACNE. Suppurating acne with oily skin. Salol 5 grammes Sulphur ether 20 - Alcohol 90% 100 - Pustular acne. Sulphur precipitate 15 grammes Talcum 120 - Spirits of camphor 40 - Tincture of quillaya 20 drops Rose water Q. S. to make 250 cubic centimeters. To be used lukewarm after thorough shaking evenings and left on all night. ACNE 91 Lead water 50 grammes Camphorated alcohol 25 - Tincture of Quillaya 2 - Boiled water 300 - Acne with congestion of the face. Acne with papules, erythema, dry skin and desquamation. Salicylic acid •. •. 1 gramme Soda borate ..... 4 - Alcohol 90% 5 - Rose water 200 - Most of these lotions are used pure; but if the skin is irritable, they must be mixed with boiled water in the proper proportion of one-third, one-half, or more. CREAMS, SALVES AND PASTES FOR ACNE: Soothing cream for irritable face. Oil of vaseline.............. 40 grammes Lanolin : 40 - 01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 40 - Perfume ad libitum. Salve for pustular acne. 01. lini. and aqua calcis... aa 15 grammes Oil of vaseline 20 - Lanolin 10 - Ichthyol 1 - Oxide of zinc 20 - Sulphur precipitate 2 - Paste for allaying irritation after desquamatory treatment of acne. Oxide of zinc - Rice powder ■ aa 25 grammes Lanolin Vaseline COSMETIC GUIDE 92 Acne with suppuration and desquamation. Salicylic acid 2 grammes Resorcin 1 - Ichthyol 4 - Green soap 10 - Diachylon ointment 10 - Lanolin 10 - Suppurating acne (pustulai-) with itching and desquamation. Camphor 0.5 gramme Turpeth mineral 0.5 Salicylic acid 1 - Tincture of benzoin 1 Vaseline 5 - Lanolin 10 - 01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 7.5 - Salve for pustular acne. Sulphur precipitate 2 grammes Salicylic acid 1 - Vaseline 10 - Lanolin 10 - Acne on oily skin with blackheads and pustules. Vaseline 25 grammes Lanolin 25 - Soft soap (potas) 10 - Sulphur precipitate 4 - Ichthyol 1 - Acne on dry skin, erythema and scales. Sulphur precipitate 10 grammes Talcum 20 - Glycerine 40 - Tincture benzoin 2 - Tincture quillaya 5 - Rose water 260 - BANDAGES 93 Papular acne with congestion of the face. Green soap 20 grammes Ichthyol 2 - Talcum 25 - Salicylic acid 1 - Acetate of lead 2 - This is an irritant preparation to be applied in the evening for two or three hours only. ANHIDROSIS, Absence of Transpiration.-See Dryness of the skin. ANEMIA.-See Paleness of Face or Pallor. Fig. 17.-Application of bands for the mold. 1.-When the massage is over, apply a linen band under which are placed tampons of cotton to prevent wrinkles from forming again. BANDAGES.-Bands and bandages are used after facial massage, to efface wrinkles and folds, in cases of puffiness, abnormal swellings or hollows of the face. 94 COSMETIC GUIDE These bandages hold in place tampons of cotton, which compress the parts to be reduced, while on the portions to be rounded and filled out no padding is used. These bandages and the cotton constitute what is called a mould, and to apply them properly is an art. (See figs. 17, 18, 19.) The illustrations under masks show the manner of application in each case. Fig. 18.-Application of bands for the mold. 2.-The mold is formed by the band and the wadding tampons, which produce the modeling to be given to the face. These wadding tampons are secured in their proper place with the bands. The tampons cause a pressure upon the parts that should be reduced, but no tampons are placed where the mold should show an empty space. BARBER'S ITCH.-See Beard, Itching. BEARD.-Under the head of brilliantines, dyeing, the prescriptions necessary for keeping the beard in good condition will be found. BEARD 95 The care of the beard is identical with that of the hair* The waters, lotions and applications for the beard, are the same as those for oily and dry skins and scales. It must not be forgotten that after shaving, a weak antiseptic lotion, containing alcohol, should be used to Fig. 19.-Application of bands for the mold. 3.-The mold is finished and should be kept on for one hour. The whole mold now resembles a dressing of the face; only the eyes, the nose and the mouth are visible. avoid infection. The razor may carry syphilis, boils, and that tedious affection sycosis, to the skin. These lotions, which are useful after shaving, contain vinegars, lotions and toilet waters according to the quality of the *See Hair and its Preservation, by Richard W. Muller, M. D.; also Loss of Hair and its Treatment by the new Quartz-Light Rays, by the same author. 96 COSMETIC GUIDE skin. To prevent sycosis so often caused by shaving, a piece of alum should be rubbed over the surface in order to toughen the skin. For very sensitive, oily or moist skins, powdering afterwards with rice or talcum powder Fig. 20.-Barber's itch and folliculitis. Result of a non-sterilized razor or shaving brush, of an irritant soap, causing a suppuration of the hair follicles. is indicated. Alcohol must not be used too often, as it dries the skin and causes the hair to become brittle and break. Nor should brilliantine be used too frequently as it dulls and soils the mustache. BLACKHEADS 97 BITES.-See Stings. BLACKHEADS, black-points, comedons. (See also Acne).-These are generally found on oily faces, and are the result of the accumulation of sebum (fatty mat- ter) in the orifices of the sebaceous glands, where, being exposed to the atmospheric dust, it soon becomes black. Nose, wings of nose, forehead and chin, and the cor- ners of the lips are the favorite seat of these invaders. They are sometimes so numerous as to give the face a dirty brown appearance. At other times we find them penetrating so far into the skin, that on being removed they are found to have an inch in length, and pus fol- lows their exit on pressure. This proves the invasion of the sebaceous ducts by microbes. These blackheads always accompany oily seborrhoea and acne and is a trouble frequently found with young persons of a lymph- atic and arthritic temperament. They are oftener seen on brunettes than on blondes. For their removal numerous instruments have been invented, which in the hands of a clever person serve the purpose very well. Too much pressure, however, is to be avoided. It has been found that violence used upon the blackheads which are swollen and bulby, will spread the microbic invasion below the surface, causing abscesses, which must be opened with the knife and leave scars and disfigurements. Alkaline preparations, soatps, sulphurated water, alco- holic solutions, ethers and astringents, are used against blackheads. Mechanical treatment.-Massage, extirpation by pres- sure or by the help of a watch key, or of a small instru- ment made for this purpose, the centre of which is placed 98 COSMETIC GUIDE over the blackhead and pressed. This pressure is some- times very painful. Medico-surgical treatment. - Scarifications, removing with the scarificator, even with the curette (scraper). Each operation should be preceded by washing and removal of the grease in the region (water and soap, alcohol, ether) and followed by touching with an anti- septic (camphorated naphthol), or by cauterizing (nitrate of silver 1-20, tincture of iodine, chlorate of zinc 1-20). Medical treatment (See Acne and Seborrhoea).-Bath- ing with hot water with the addition of bi-carbonate of soda, biborate, sulphur borate (combination of sulphur and borate of soda) in the proportions of 10, 20 to 30 grammes to one quart water. Sprays of the same solutions and sulphur waters; various sulphurs in powders. Lotions and friction with: Distilled water 1000 grammes Alcohol 90% 100 Boracic acid 20 - Acid of thyme 30 - Powdered alum 10 - Ether 30 grammes Peroxide of hydrogen at 12% 50 - Alcohol 90% 50 Bicarbonate of soda 10 - Water 250 grammes Borate of soda 10 - Alcohol 100 - Hyposulphite or bi-sulphite of soda.. 1 to 5 grammes Rose water 100 (Cavalhies). Lotions. BLACKHEADS 99 Sulphuric ether 20 Igrammes Essence of lemon 30 - Distilled rose water 80 - Distilled lettuce water 20 - To be rubbed in with cotton dipped in it. Subcarbonate of soda 2 grammes Rose water 250 - Borate of soda 4 grammes Rose water 40 - Orange flower water 40 - Alcohol 90% 80 grammes Spirits of lavender 10 - Green soap 40 - Salicylic acid 1 - Use pure or mixed with water. Borate of soda 5 grammes Alcohol 90% 10 - Neutral glycerine 30 - Rose water 100 - (Vaucaire). naphthol 0.40 grammes Precipitate sulphur 1 - Vaseline 15 - Green soap 5 - Rub on twice a week. Ointments. Lanolin 20 grammes Ichthyol 2 - Resorcin 5 grammes Lard 100 - 100 COSMETIC GUIDE BREATH, offensive.-Changes in the breath have re- ceived little consideration from the profession. An offen- sive breath is a constant source of misery to all who, by force of circumstances, are compelled to associate with the unfortunate patient. It is a functional disorder liable to occur at all periods of life, and men are more subject to it than women. Few of the persons afflicted with an unpleasant breath are aware of the fact, nor do they realize the feeling of repugnance which it calls forth among those with whom they come in contact. And yet a false delicacy prevents us from making them aware of their trouble or suggesting to them some source of relief. It is mainly to a disarrangement of the functions of digestion and assimilation that we must look for the origin of "bad breath." In the stomach, the fibrine and albumin of meat, the gluten of bread and the casein of cheese are mixed with the gastric juice and changed into albuminose. In this state they are absorbed by the blood-vessels and carried by the blood, together with other portions of digested food, to the different tissues which they nourish and keep alive. With this process of supply there is also one of waste. Death of tissue proceeds with a rapidity equal to the amount of repair. The products of decay are carried off in different forms by the kidneys, by the lungs and the bowels, and from the bowels in the shape of gases, some of which are manufactured in the intestinal canal by the decomposition of undigested food. The products of decay eliminated by the lungs are carbonic acid and water, in which is a trace of animal matter. In a healthy state, when every organ is working naturally, there is no unpleasant odor from the expired air; but, as soon BREATH 101 as the machinery gets out of order, as extraneous ma- terials are added, the breath is tainted. The various diseased conditions preventing the elimin- ation from the intestinal glands of the products of de- structive metamorphoses are mental emotions, constipa- tion, indigestion, congenital deficiency in the eliminating glandular system, general debility and low forms of fevers. Local causes are: decayed teeth, caries of the nasal or maxillary bones, ulceration of the lining mem- brane of the nose, mouth, pharynx, larynx, trachea or bronchial tubes or "putrid bronchitis." The influence of mental emotion on the animal econ- omy has never received the consideration which its im- portance demands, but it is one of the causes of "bad breath," which often develops suddenly and is less amen- able to treatment than any other variety, because it often depends on the will of the patient whether the cause shall be removed or not. As there is no local cause which can be removed, the treatment must be di- rected to the general system. All sources of mental emotion should be removed. Daily cold sponge baths are useful in giving tone to the nervous system, plenty of exercise also in the open is helpful. The amount of animal food eaten at meals should be decreased and more vegetable food substituted. The following preparation will be found of service when mental excitement occurs at stated intervals: Tinct. lavender comp 60 grammes Tinct. valerian 15 - Camph. mixture 12 - Aquae carvi 30 - Dose: 15 drops on sugar every hour till relieved. 102 COSMETIC GUIDE Constipation is more frequently a cause of bad breath than mental emotion. Persons of indolent habits who lounge indoors and rarely exercise in the open air are very subject to it. A watery condition of the blood (anemia) may produce constipation by lessening the normal amount of the secretions, or deteriorating the elements entering into their composition. Almost all forms of indigestion are accompanied by constipation. The skin often is darker than natural, or has a yellowish hue, or the odor of its secretion is per- ceptibly changed. The tongue is coated, often the lips are parched and dry. The breath is fetid and when the patient notices it, he says "it is feverish." This fetor can always be removed, but the patient must be made to understand that medicine alone will not produce a per- manent improvement. An entire change of habit is necessary. Vigorous exercise out of doors should be constantly insisted upon. If this is not practicable, some other exercise must be substituted, such as dumb bells, sparring, etc. Fruit, peaches, pears, oranges, etc., should be eaten before breakfast. Fruit eaten in this way is a valuable adjuvant in keeping up proper action of the bowels. No special diet can be laid down; what suits one person will not always agree with another. In most cases gentle cathartics will be found necessary. Active purgatives are rarely needed. The following tonic and laxative preparation is ex- ceedingly useful: Pulv. aloes socot 1 gramme Extr. nucis vomicae 0.15 - Pulv. ferri sulph 1.50 - As in previous cases the mouth and teeth should be cleansed thoroughly with a solution of myrrh and water BREATH 103 (1 teaspoonful myrrh to 1 wine glass of water), or with carbolic acid solution (4 grains to 2 ounces water). Tincture of cinnamon slightly diluted may be applied to the inside of the mouth by means of a brush. Pieces of charcoal, the size of a hazel nut, may be eaten several times during the day, but these things only diminish the offensive odor. Where the constipation and bad odor are kept up by a lax condition of the system, a course of tonic medicines alone will often be sufficient to produce a cure. The false modes of life of the present time, the hurry, excitement, etc., are the source of innumerable ills. Sed- entary habits, overwork, bolting the food down, sap the vitality until nature gives way under the strain. The symptoms which characterize indigestion are in some respects similar to those connected with chronic constipation, but indigestion frequently occurs inde- pendently of constipation. In addition to the symptoms before enumerated, there is pain, weight in the stomach after eating and eructations of gas and acid liquids into the mouth. The gas rarely has a bad odor. The breath becomes fetid, however, after the beginning of the dis- order. Fatigue and nervous excitement invariably in- crease it. The same hygienic measures recommended for the cure of constipation and its accompanying bad breath are necessary in every form of indigestion: fresh air, nourishing food, change of habitation, rest from work and worry do more for promoting a cure than medicine. Congenital bad breath.-A few unfortunate poeple are afflicted with a bad breath from their childhood. The treatment of congenital bad breath is more palliative than curative. We cannot remove it completely, we can 104 COSMETIC GUIDE only hide or modify it. The patient should take a tepid bath daily, afterwards sponging the surface of the body with cold water. When the skin has been rubbed dry, a diluted solution of Florida water should be applied with a wet towel. A few drops of spirits of camphor act in some cases as a perfect deodorizer. The mouth and teeth ought to be keep scrupulously clean. Charcoal is a useful disinfectant. Sweet-flag, partridge berry leaves, cinnamon bark may be used constantly. Decaying bone, when exposed to the air, exhales a fetor. The same destructive process in the teeth oc- casions less odor than decay in other bony tissues. When a fetid breath is associated with decayed teeth, it is usually assumed that the teeth alone are responsible; this is, however, not the case. The decaying structures of the teeth are but accessories in producing the fetor. When eating, particles of food become lodged in the minute cavities of the teeth. The heat and moisture of the mouth excite decomposition of the mass. In a day or two it is thoroughly rotten and emits the foul smell characteristic of putridity under other circumstances. Every day this decaying mass receives fresh layers, until it is very difficult to distinguish the animal matter from the bone. As a consequence of this putrefactive change, the breath becomes impregnated with the foul smell. The proper person to consult in this case is the dentist. The teeth should be brushed after every meal. Bad breath arising from putrid inflammation of the mouth is a peculiar and comparatively dangerous affec- tion. The odor is from the beginning extremely offen- sive. If the affection is not controlled by proper reme- dies the cheeks become affected by the ulceration, and the disease may involve the life of the patient. BREATH 105 The treatment is simple and usually successful. A solution of chlorate of potash, used repeatedly, in the course of a day or two stops the ulceration and removes the fetor. For adults the following solution is the best: Chlorate of potash 4 grammes Syrup of ginger 15 - Distilled water 90 - Scorbutic ulceration of the mouth is preceded by loss of flesh and strength. The breath is fetid. The disease requires local and constitutional treatment. Local treat- ment consists in the application of astringent washes to the mouth, as alum, tannic or gallic acid. One teaspoon- ful of powdered alum added to four ounces of water, may b< used five or six times a day as a wash. Constitutional treatment consists in the administration of lime or lemon juice and vegetable acids. Syphilitic inflammation and ulceration of the mouth and fauces are always accompanied by bad breath. The first thing to be done is to cauterize the sores. Then apply a strong solution of carbolic acid and glycerine. Carbolic acid 2 grammes Glycerine 30 - Distilled water 60 - Clergyman's sore throat, a chronic inflammatory affection of the mucous membrane lining the pharynx, is also a cause of fetor. Chronic enlargement of the tonsils is another source of offensive breath. Diphtheria and diphtheritic sore throat have an offensive breath as one of their most 106 COSMETIC GUIDE prominent symptoms. Catarrhal affections, characterized by a profuse muco-purulent discharge, have as a rule an offensive odor. BRILLIANTINES.-Brilliantines play a part anal- ogous with that of cosmetic sticks. They are composed of one or two different fluids. Brilliantines of one fluid are known as antique oils of yellow color, and oil of quinine of red color. For their base they have oil of vaseline. The solid brilliantines are really ointments made of beef marrow, bear's fat, or still better, of vaseline. Brilliantines are divided into non-homogeneous and homogeneous, according to whether they are turbid or clear. The turbid brilliantines must be shaken before using. In cases of dryness, brilliantines rich in fatty sub- stances, i. e., the non-homogeneous should be used. For oily beards and mustaches, the homogeneous brillian- tines with a base of alcohol are to be preferred. Homogeneous Brilliantines. Alcohol 90% 50 grammes Glycerine 50 - Essence to perfume Q. S. Castor oil 130 grammes Alcohol 90% 30 - Essence of roses 1 - Extract of heliotrope 50 grammes Vanilline crystal 1 - Alcohol 80% 300 - Non-homogeneous Brilliantines. Oil of vaseline Q. S. to make 1000 grammes. BURNS Castor oil 80 grammes Tincture of quinquina 50 - Extract of jasmine... 50 - Essence of bergamot 5 - Extract of violet, Q. S. to perfume. Alcohol 90%, Q. S. for 1 quart. 107 BURNS.-Burns on the face are due either to: 1. An open fire or stove, a kerosene or alcohol lamp. 2. To boiling liquids, generally water, sometimes oil. 3. To acids, very often vitriol, sometimes carbolic. In cases of severe burns the physician should immedi- ately be called. In the meantime do not pull away the skin or wash; it must be borne in mind that water by diluting the acid, the cause of the burn, increases its action and renders the burn deeper and more serious. Do not put on any liniment otherwise used for burns. The best that can be done in the meantime is to spread some sweet oil over the burned part. Remember that burns on the face leave cicatrices and often cause serious deformities. Liniments for burns. After disinfecting the skin with lotions and sprays of marshmallow water (made up of the marshmallow roots and flowers, aa 20 grammes ; resorcin, 2 grammes ; water, 1000 grammes), use Carron oil or the following liniment: No. 1.-Simple Liniment. 01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 20 grammes Lanolin 20 - Vaseline 10 - Oil of vaseline 10 - Ichthyol 5 drops 108 COSMETIC GUIDE Essence of verbena 30 - Essence of lavender 30 - Orthoform 2 Carbonate of magnesia and talcum Q. S. to make of a creamy consistency. Spread on burn, cover with lint and leave on 24 hours; then renew. No. 2.-Antiseptic Liniment. 01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 30 grammes Vaseline 10 - Lanolin 20 - Ichthyol 5 - Essence of lavender 1 - Carbolic acid 0.5 - Carbonate of magnesia and Carbonate of lime Q. S. to make a semi-fluid cream. Liniment No. 1 may be replaced by No. 2 as soon as suppuration appears, that is, when the scabs detach them- selves (from the 6th to the 10th day). The marshmallow lotion must then be replaced by washes and sprays of a solution of 1 to 5 grammes of resorcin to 1,000 of water. When the scabs have dropped off it is important to stimulate and regulate the cicatrices, for which purpose the following cream may be used : No. 3.-Stimulating Cream. Oil of vaseline 20 grammes Essence of cinnamon 5 drops Essence of Eucalyptus 20 - Ointment of Styrax 1 gramme Carbonate of calcium 10 - Powder of gum arabic Q. S. to make a cream. CHLOASMA 109 This may later be alternated with cream No. 4. No. 4.-Softening Cream. Oil of vaseline 10 grammes Sweet almond oil 10 - Essence of lavender 1 - Essence .of rosemary 1 - Carbonate of magnesia and Talcum, Q. S. to make a cream. CHILBLAINS.-See Frostbites. CHIN.-The chin is often the seat of acne, of black- heads, and, with men the seat of redness, small excoria- tions and scales, sores due to shaving. The treatment is the same as for the rest of the face. Double chin which is really the effect of local fatness should be treated by astringent lotions, masks, massage and electricity. CHLOASMA (See also Discolorations and Facial Blemishes).-Brown spots or blemishes on the faces of pregnant women, of persons suffering from liver dis- ease, or of the suprarenal capsule, from syphilis and lepra. Arsenic and nitrate of silver after continuous use may also produce these brown pigmentations, which are, however, most frequently found among brunettes. The following treatment is nseful: Wash the discolorations with hot tea. In the evening bathe with this lotion: Chlorate of potash 2 grammes Rose water 250 - 110 COSMETIC GUIDE Distilled water 250 grammes Liquid ammonia 2 - Essence of lemon 10 drops Corrosive sublimate T 1 gramme Glycerine 5 drops Eau de cologne 10 grammes Talcum 10 Alcohol 90% 100 - Lotions. Apply at night by means of a piece of muslin dipped in this mixture and cover with oiled silk. Ointments. Cold cream 30 grammes Essence of anis seed 2 - Flores sulfuris 1 - CICATRICES (See also Wrinkles, etc.).-Facial scars are of diverse sizes, forms and origin. It is necessary to distinguish between true cicatrices and the appear- ance of the skin where there is oily seborrhoea and comedons, which give the appearance of scars. In this case we have nothing to do with cicatrices, but with a peculiar appearance of the skin which is greasy and covered with hundreds of little openings which are stopped with little heaps of dust and grease. Facial scars may originate from: 1. Local maladies, acne, folliculitis, furuncles, abscesses, tuberculosis, syphilis, cancer; or general dis- eases and fever eruptions, as varicella and small pox. 2. Wounds due to cuts or operations. 3. Burns. These different cicatrices necessitate different treat- ment according to their cause and depth. The only scars belonging in the realm of cosmetics are those due to acne, varicella and varioloid. CICATRICES 111 The first care in these diseases is to avoid scars, and the second to make them disappear when they exist. As it is much easier to prevent them than to cure them, it must be remembered that scars follow suppuration and therefore, suppuration must be prevented whenever there is a tendency to it, and in order to do this it is necessary: 1. To wash the skin frequently with soap and non- irritant antiseptic lotions. 2. Spray with the steam of water, or with antiseptic solutions. 3. Protect the skin from exposure to dust and germs by the application of creams and dressings. 4. When suppuration has already set in, open as soon as possible every focus of suppuration, taking care not to leave a scar. 5. Destroy and isolate the focus to prevent the spread of the infectious material within it. With some people the scars become very hard and prominent, developing into cheloids or cartilaginous swellings. When cicatrices have appeared despite all our care and foresight, it is sometimes possible to modify them, and to render them less apparent through massage, electric treatment, X-rays, radium, scarification and surgical interference and internal or external medication. Internal treatment has very little influence over scar formation. To prevent scars in cases of acne, it is important to avoid pressing on the acne pustules to empty them of pus. The best method is to wash them with eau de Cologne or an aromatic alcoholic solution of salol or boracic acid, then pierce the head of the pustule with a sterilized bistoury or a needle heated to 112 COSMETIC GUIDE a white heat. After this, dry with absorbent cotton, saturated with the alcoholic solution. Combined with these lotions, boracic acid sprays 20 to 1,000, or resorcin solution 1 to 1,000 may be used. To prevent scars in chicken pox or small pox, treat as follows: 1. As soon as the eruption appears bathe the face three or four times a day with absorbent cotton dipped in the following solution : Rose water 260 grammes Borate of soda 10 - Pure glycerine 40 - Tincture of benzoin 2 - Then apply this salve: 01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 10 grammes Lanolin 5 - Vaseline 5 - Turpeth mineral 1 - 2. Should suppuration set in and the fluid in the small pox vesicle become turbid, use one of these two lotions: Salicylic acid 1 gramme Boiled water 1000 - or Bichloride of mercury 0.20 to 0.50 gramme Alcohol 90% 40 Boiled water 960 - Afterwards, use the following salve: COLD CREAMS 113 White vaseline 10 grammes Lanolin 20 - Unguent styrax 4 - Tincture benzoin 1 - Balsam Peru 20 drops Glycerated starch 30 grammes The same treatment may be employed in suppurating acne. COLD CREAMS.-Cosmetic creams are of English origin. Their foundation is spermaceti, wax, rosewater and sweet almond oil. To certain cold creams, glycerine, cocoa-butter and soapy substances are added. Cold creams are being gradually replaced by toilet creams, which dry and irritate the skin less. As the wax in cold creams forms an impermeable coating against the air, it follows that after their prolonged use there will be an impairment of the glands, atrophy of the skin and wrinkles Here follow some prescriptions for cold creams to which may be added any perfume desired: White wax 20 grammes Cocoa-butter 20 - Oil of sweet almonds 80 - Essence of rose 8 drops Orange flower water 8 grammes Glycerine 8 - Perfume ad libitum. Softening cold cream. Sweet almond oil 125 grammes Olive oil 125 - White wax 15 - Perfume ad libitum. 114 COSMETIC GUIDE Cold cream stock. Spermaceti 180 grammes White wax 90 - Sweet almond oil 645 - Distilled rose water 180 - Tincture benzoin 45 - Borax 10 - Sweet almond oil 215 grammes Spermaceti 60 - White wax 30 - Distilled rosewater 60 - Volatile oil of roses 10 drops Tincture benzoin 5 grammes COMEDONS.-See Blackheads, Acne, Erythema, Seborrhoea. COMPLEXION.-The complexion corresponds gen- erally with the color of the face, (pale, colored, red, yel- low, earthy). We talk of a fresh complexion when the skin is rosy and the face animated and without wrinkles; of a clear complexion when free from wrinkles and blemishes. The complexion depends upon the general health, the constitution, the temperament, the circulation, and the proper working of the nervous system. The complexion corresponds with the color of the hair and eyes. It depends upon the number and quality of the blood vessels as much as upon the amount of pigment or coloring matter in the skin. There are three principal varieties of complexion agreeing with the color of the hair. White or pale complexion Blondes Red or colored complexion Reds Dark or yellow complexion Brunettes COMPLEXION 115 This is not by any means, an absolute division, since we often find red haired persons with white complexion, and blondes who have a dark and oily skin like brunettes. The varieties of complexion are as numerous as the different colors of the hair. They may be divided thus : Blond complexion Ash blond - - Chestnut - - Golden - - Yellow red Red complexion Burning red - - Venetian red Brunette's complexion Light chestnut - - Deep chestnut - - Black chestnut Blondes have generally blue eyes, white skin, dry and scaling easily. As they age the skin wrinkles and red- dens in places. Blondes approaching the yellow have often brown or yellow marks, stains or blotches on the skin. The skin is frequently inclined to flaccidity. Red haired people have eyes of uncertain color. The skin is less fragile, either very pale or very highly col- ored and rather dry. According to whether they are brilliant red or Venetian red they react like blondes or brunettes respectively. Brunettes have dark or brown eyes, skin rather brown- ish or with a slight yellow tinge, oily, moist, readily congested and given to acne. Swelling of the face is frequently noticed among brunettes. The care of the face, varying with the complexion, is more fully described under the head: Toilette of the face. 116 COSMETIC GUIDE The Gauls who excited the envy and admiration of the Romans by their clear complexion, used chalk dis- solved in vinegar and the foam of beer for washing their faces. In the XV Century cream into which various flowers were thrown as lilies, water-lilies, roses, etc., and boiled in a water bath, was used for softening the skin. In the XVI Century, Rhine wine, spinach water and the juice of strawberries were used as lotions. Mme. de Pompadour applied nightly raw beefsteak. Honey mixed with water gives the skin a wonderful velvety softness. Poppea, the wife of Nero, covered her face every night with a poultice made of bread and the milk of an ass. To whiten a complexion when there is too much color, the various troubles of the body must be treated ; when necessary ergotine, hamamelin, quinine, and belladonna given internally; the digestive organs and the functions of the ovaries and uterus watched and regulated. Con- stipation is, however, the greatest and most persistent enemy of the complexion of women. Lotions. Bran water, boracic acid water, 20 per 1,000. Astringent lotions of alum, 5 per 1,000. Salt water lotion, 10 to 20 per 1,000. To give color to a complexion which is too pale. Hot sprays, rubbing with vinegar lotions, massage, electricity, douches and baths of static electricity Alcoholic lotions are preferable; no fats. Powders. Lotions for relaxed and pale skin. COMPLEXION 117 Washing with ammonia and water, 2 to 10 drops of ammonia in a quart of water, afterwards rub with: Eau de Cologne- 100 grammes Pure water 50 - Lotions for stretched skin. Emollient lotions of bran, marshmallow, creams, glycerine. Lotion for clearing the complexion and softening the skin. Essence of roses 5 drops Rain water 1 pint Juice of fresh lemon 1 tumbler full Ointment. Juice of lemon and white of egg; take s iual parts of each. Heat over fire till it becomes like butter. Spread over face after washing with rice water. Orange flower water 30 grammes Tincture of benzoin 10 drops Tincture of myrrh 10 - Powdered alum 2 grammes Alcohol 90% 5 - First cover face over with oil of sweet almonds and spray with this mixture. After spraying cold alcoholic lotions are to be used. Lotion for greasy skin with pustules Salves for dry skin. Oil of sweet almonds 150 grammes Spermaceti 35 - White wax 15 - Rosewater 30 - Cologne water 3 - Tincture of benzoin 1 - 118 COSMETIC GUIDE or Subnitrate of bismuth 3 grammes Cold cream 30 - Essence of violets 10 drops Tincture of benzoin 30 Olive oil 10 grammes Cherry laurel water 10 - Thick almond milk 10 - Powdered alum 2 - Peruvian balsam 2 drops Pour some on sterilized gauze; apply and keep on all night. Beauty Mask of Ninon CONGELATIONS.-These are frostbites, or the effect of cold upon the face. The treatment consists in rubbing with cold and afterwards with hot stimulating liquids. Chilblains on nose and ears, erythema and burns, are to be treated by rubbing with oily substances and astringents. Ichthyol 1 gramme Resorcin 1 - Tannic acid 1 - Distilled water 5 - Muc. gum arabic.... 30 - Olive oil 30 - Salve. CONGESTION OF THE FACE. (See also Erythema or Red Face).-This may be either partial or total red- ness of the face. Most frequently the red flush is seen on nose and cheek. It is connected with the digestion; it is more accentuated among persons wearing tight fit- ting clothing or corsets, with stout people and brunettes. Life in the open air confers permanent redness to the face; the same is the case in some diseases of heart and lungs. CONGESTION OF THE FACE 119 Congestion of the face, or flush, must not be con- founded with erythema, acne or varicosity of the sur- face and other diseases of the skin as lupus of the face. Treatment of facial congestion must be preceded by a medical examination of the general condition and of the organs involved in such cases. All causes of con- gestion must be removed, all tight clothing forbidden, reading or working with head bent after eating, the nutri- tion must be watched and the bowels regulated. Light purgatives, footbaths of water, with the addition some- times of mustard, must be taken now and then. Cold feet are a frequent cause of congestion of the face, there- fore, it is advisable to wear woolen stockings. Hot water for washing, either with or without the addition of a little alcohol or vinegar or some astringent toilet water should be used. Massage, electricity with high frequency currents will regulate the circulation and prove useful. The face should be bathed with: Tar water 120 grammes Tincture of benzoin 5 - Friction should be made with : Spirits of lavender 15 grammes Spirits of rosemary 100 - Alcohol 90% 80 - To apply at night: Borate of soda 0.50 gramme Glycerine 10 - Distilled water 300 - Use these ointments: Vaseline 60 grammes Lanolin 20 - Sulphate of zinc 8 - Essence of lemon 20 drops 120 COSMETIC GUIDE Tincture of benzoin 1 gramme Tincture of witch hazel 1 - Tannic acid 1 - Vaseline 20 - Powder afterwards with: Talcum 100 grammes Boracic acid 50 - Essence of verbena 20 drops Starch powder 100 grammes Powdered orris root 20 - Venetian talcum 15 - COSMETICS (See also Paints).-The word cosmetics is applied especially to the preparations used in the care of the face, either to beautify it, or to hide imperfec- tions. The history of cosmetics is connected with that of advanced civilization. Traces of it, however, have been found among peoples still apparently in a savage con- dition. Tattooing constituted of itself a sort of decora- tion of the skin. In ancient Egypt, in Greece, in Rome, at certain epochs of the history of France, cosmetics have played an important part. Physicians, such as Hippocrates, Celsius, Galen, and writers like Pliny, Martial, Ovid, Juvenal and Suetonius have written upon the subject of cosmetics. Romans distinguished cosmetics according to the effect to be obtained. They divided them into orna- mental or decorative cosmetics as related to hygiene or to the beautifying of the body, into which no poisonous substances entered; and into "ars fricatrix," which is the science of correcting natural imperfections and CRACKED SKIN 121 repairing the ravages of time, as well as the knowledge of the proper use of paints, the majority of which con- tained poisonous and dangerous substances. To-day, cosmetics have fallen into the hands of per- fumers, and there is no longer any difference made in the mixing of the ingredients, which are all supposed to be hygienic. Among them there are emulsions, lotions and toilet waters which enjoy a great reputation for the removal of blemishes of the face, down, wrinkles, while at the same time they are most poisonous and pernicious for the skin. Some of the ancient as well as the modern prepara- tions, contain nitrate of silver, sulphate of copper, acet- ate of lead and bichloride of mercury. It is very much to be desired that the laws, which regulate the sale of pharmaceutical preparations and poisonous substances, should also be applied to cos- metics, and that perfumers should be obliged to mention all the poisonous and irritating substances contained in their products. This is the rule in the drug trade, and should be the same in perfumery and cosmetics. CRACKED SKIN (See also Chapped Skin, Frost- bites, Lipeczema).-Cracked skin is caused by the influ- ence of heat, cold, variations of temperature, dryness and irritants; the lips are most often affected and this com- plaint is painful and difficult to cure. Lotions Lettuce water 200 grammes Pure glycerine 50 - Tincture of Peruvian balsam 15 - Salicylate of soda 5 - 122 COSMETIC GUIDE Peruvian balsam 2 grammes Boracic acid 2 - Neutral glycerine 60 - Glycerine jellies. Talcum 1 gramme Resorcine 4 - Mucilage 10 - Distilled water 10 - Balsam tolu 10 grammes Oil of sweet almonds 20 - Lanolin 10 - Rose milk 20 - Oxide of zinc 3 grammes Tannic acid . 3 - Glycerine 45 - Tincture of benzoin 6 - Camphor 3 - Menthol 3 grammes Salol 4 - Olive oil 4 - Lanolin or Vaseline 100 - Camphor oil 10 - Balsam Peru 1 - Oxide of zinc 3 grammes Glycerine 9 - Lanolin 8 - Essence of roses, Q. S. CREAMS.-Creams are more in use than any other cosmetical preparation. But like paint, once their use has been commenced it must be continued. Cream is put on the face as a protection against cold, wind and sun. CREAMS 123 It is not good to accustom one's self to the use of cream if the skin is healthy, neither dry nor oily. When one arrives at the age when the skin begins to redden, to become wrinkled and shining, creams may become indis- pensable, particularly if it is desired to prevent the face from ageing. Creams help to retain the face powders, by making them adhere, and renders their use less injurious. Creams to be inoffensive should contain much water. Their preparation requires a thorough mixing by pro- longed heating of the aromatic waters with the oily sub- stances. Fat Creams.-These have neutral vaseline as their base, lanolin, stearates, soda, potash, ammonia. These creams which should be neutral, (neither acid nor alka- line) suit dry skins best. Lanolin, which should always be the pure anhydrous variety, gives creams a disagreeable odor, therefore, it must be masked by using some perfume. Gelatine is added to creams to increase their adhesive quali- ties. Oxyde of zinc in small quantities is also added to increase their consistency and whiteness; carbonate of magnesia serves the same purpose. To facilitate the intimate mixture of the different constituent ingredients of creams, gum tragacanth as well as casein are added. Refreshing cream Oil of vaseline 10 grammes Oil of sweet almonds 10 - Essence of lavender 1 - Essence of rosemary 1 - Carbonate of magnesia and talcum Q. S. to make a cream. 124 COSMETIC GUIDE Cream for wrinkles. Lanolin anhydrous 125 grammes Distilled rose water 10 - Distilled witch hazel water 65 - Cream of oxide of zinc. Oxide of zinc 3 grammes Vaseline 10 - Lanolin 10 - Essence of lavender 5 drops Rose water 5 grammes Dry Creams.-Dry creams having as their base soap, gelatine, cucumber, suit oily skins best. It is well to add slightly astringent substances in their preparation. Cream for oily skin Cold cream 10 grammes Cucumber cream 10 - Lanolin 20 - Oxyde of zinc 10 - Boracic cream. Chemically pure glycerine 250 grammes Powdered starch 20 - Biborate of soda 4 - Essence of roses 1 - Essence of bergamot 1 - or Cold cream 10 grammes Cucumber cream 10 - Lanolin 10 - Bergamot oil Q. S. There are in the trade, any number of creams having as their base stearic acid, oxide of tin, glycerine and watery substances. These preparations give the skin a particularly fine lustre, but it must not be forgotten that CREAMS 125 tin is a poisonous caustic, and undergoes many chemical changes dangerous for the skin. Indifferent Creams, Mixed Creams, Medical Creams.- These creams have oleo-calcareous liniment, sapo- lan and lanolin with watery substances, cucumber and banana creams as their base and suit most skins. For some time past oxygenized creams with vasogene or oxygenized vaseline as their foundation have been much in use. They are antiseptic and modify the condi- tions existing in acne, blackheads, pigmentations and desquamation of the face. Stimulating cream for dry flaccid skins with a tendency to wrinkles. Essence of cinnamon 10 drops Balsam of Peru 30 - Essence of eucalyptus 20 - Styrax ointment 1 gramme Oil of vaseline 25 - Carbonate of calcium 12 - Antiseptic cream. Calomel 1 gramme Subnitrate of bismuth 2 - Lanolin 10 - Vaseline 10 - Resolving cream for congestion and rosacea. Oxide of zinc 10 grammes Acetate of lead 1 - 01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 7.50 - Lanolin 5 - Vaseline * 10 - 126 COSMETIC GUIDE Fluid cream for oily skin with acne and eczema. 01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 40 grammes Lanolin 10 - Balsam of Peru 20 drops Ichthyol 5 grammes Essence of lavender 1 - Talcum and carbonate magnesia, Q. S. for cream. Astringent and tonic cream. Vaseline 60 grammes Lanolin 60 - Tannic acid 5 - Balsam Peru 1 - Cream, for scaling eruptions. 01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 5 grammes Oxide of zinc 5 Tannin 1 - Lanolin 5 - Indifferent cream. 01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 10 grammes Oxide of zinc 10 - Lanolin 10 - Vaseline .. 10 - Talcum 20 - Cream for shining greasy skins. Tincture of benzoin 1 Gramme Borax 2 - Lanolin 10 - Oil of sweet almonds 30 - Orange flower water 30 - Gum tragacanth and talcum Q. S. for cream. CREAMS 127 Cream for scaling skin with acne, redness and blackheads. Essence of rosemary 30 grammes Essence of lavender 30 - Oil of vaseline 10 - Oil of sweet almonds 10 - Sulphur precipitate 10 - Green soap 10 - Tincture quillaya 30 drops Glycerine 30 grammes Carbonate magnesia and talcum, Q. S. to make a cream. Adherent cream. Glycerine 30 grammes Rosewater 10 - Essence of verbena 20 drops Oxide of zinc 5 grammes Gum tragacanth, Q. S. to bind. Cream for acneic and eczematous skin. Essence of verbena 30 drops Essence of lavender 30 - Ichthyol 5 grammes Oil of vaseline 10 - Lanolin 20 - Vaseline 20 - Carbonate of magnesia and talcum, Q. S. to make a cream. Oily cream for dry skin. Essence of lavender 1 gramme Phenic acid 0.50 -• Ichtyol 5 - Vaseline 10 - Lanolin 20 - 01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 30 - Carbonate of magnesia and carbonate of chalk, Q. S. to make a semi-fluid cream. 128 COSMETIC GUIDE Dry cream for oily skin. Pure gomenol 20 drops Essence of verbena 20 - Ichthyol 20 - Balsam of Peru 15 grammes Lanolin 20 - 01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 20 - Carbonate of magnesia and talcum, Q. S. to make a cream. Tonic cream for dry, irritable and congestive skin. Tincture of benzoin 10 drops Liquid styrax 10 - Milk of almonds 5 grammes Lanolin 10 - Vaseline 10 - Tincture of quillaya 10 - Fluid creams against wrinkles and scurf and to freshen the complexion. Anhydrous lanolin 125 grammes Distilled rose water 15 - Distilled witch hazel water 25 - Cream for shining face. Cold cream (recently made) 30 grammes Acetate of zinc 0.10 - Essence of rose 1 - Apply for half an hour morning and evening. Cream for dry and pimpled face. Cerate 20 grammes Oil of sweet almonds 15 - Spermaceti 20 - CREAMS 129 Vaseline 5 grammes Lanolin 5 - 01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 12% - Essence of lavender 20 drops Carbonate of magnesia, Q. S. to make a cream. Cream for irritable face. Cream for dry skin. Rosewater 15 grammes Cocoa butter 10 - Spermaceti 25 - Sweet almond oil 25 - Glycerine 5 - Cream for a dry skin with pustules. Dermatol 2 grammes Oxide of zinc 5 - Talcum 10 - Vaseline 20 - Lanolin 10 - Cream for soothing irritable skin and to protect from the sun. Cold cream 40 grammes Cucumber cream 20 - Lanolin 15 - Oxide of zinc 5 - Creams for general use. Oil of vaseline 4 Lanolin I aa 40 grammes 01. lini. and aqua calcis J Glycerate of starch 100 grammes Oxide of zinc 10 - Rosewater 10 -• Tincture of benzoin 1 - Essence of roses, Q. S, to make a cream, 130 COSMETIC GUIDE Anhydrous lanolin 350 grammes Olive oil 130 - Boracic acid 20 - Glycerine 100 - Rosewater 50 - Lanolin 5 grammes Sweet almond oil 5 - Precipitated sulphur ... 5 - Oxide of zinc 2.50 - Extract of violets 0.50 - Cherry laurel water 30 grammes Glycerine 30 - Benzoin 5 - Rosewater 30 - Orange flower water .. 30 - Starch powder 1 gramme Glycerine 32 - Essence of rose 3 drops GENERAL REMARKS ON THE USE OF CREAMS. The above creams are stimulating-, antiseptic and suitable for skin with a tendency to flushing, scaling, pustules, acne and congestion. The number and variety of prescriptions for creams given is explained by the fact of their great popularity. For this reason some further remarks as to their use can be in order. COMPOSITION OF CREAMS. The composition of creams must be as much like the secretions of the skin as possible, either oily, dry or COMPOSITION OF CREAMS 131 moist. Creams are compositions which are nearly the same as the emulsions or lotions; they are really solid emulsions or lotions which look like the cream of milk, hence their name. A cream should not prevent the respiration of the skin or the flow of its secretions: sebum, oil or perspiration. Creams must be absorbed by the skin and to accom- plish this purpose, they must hold as much aqueous substances as possible. Creams ought not to be acid, nor capable of fermenta- tion, nor contain ingredients of strong and disagreeable odor. Creams have as their ingredients: 1-Waters and fluids, varying according to the action to be obtained upon the skin. Pure water, distilled and sterilized; aromatic distilled waters: rose water, orange flower water, cherry laurel water; medicinal waters and solutions: witch hazel, antipyrine. 2-Alcohol of varying strength, glycerine, tincture of quillaya. It is very important that these last three sub- stances be used only in very small quantities, as they irritate and dry the skin. 3.-Fats and solid excipients, which serve as a foun- dation for the creams and give them their creamy character. Such fats are: Lard.-Lard, difficult to sterilize, becoming rancid quickly, insoluble in water, unless mixed with benzoin (which prevents fermentation) in the proportion of 3 to 5 grammes per 100, 132 COSMETIC GUIDE Bananas.-These contain gallic acid and mallic acid, gum, albumen, sugar, oils and alcohol. The juice of bananas is solvent, tonic and stimulating to the skin, without drying it. Cocoabutter.-Oily matter extracted from the cocoa- nut, having the same properties and uses as the oils. Cerates.-Preparations with wax, oil and water as their base, cerates keep poorly and do not mix well with other substances. Because of the oil which they con- tain, they render the face often too greasy and are, there- fore, not very useful as a cosmetic. Spermaceti.-Is insoluble in water, but soluble in alcohol, ether and oil. It is much used in the prepara- tion of cold creams. Wax.-Beeswax enters into the composition of cold creams, and serves to give consistency to ointments. The difficulty in dissolving it, which can only be done at a high temperature, makes it of little use for the com- pounding of creams. Cold creams -Formerly used pure. Their actual use is a base for creams. But they do not keep well and are difficult of mixture with other substances. They become rancid quickly, are of complicated composition and are very incompatible. Diadermin.-A new chemical compound, which can serve as a base for indifferent creams. It is a soft glycerine soap, holding stearic acid, glycerine, water and a small proportion of ammonia. Colloidals.-A new preparation recently prepared by M. Carrion, containing oxide of zinc, is of vegetable origin, neutral, without fats, mixes with water, does not spoil, does not iiritate the tegument and can be employed with advantage for creams intended for oily skins, COMPOSITION OF CREAMS 133 It is white, odorless, neutral, can be sterilized, mixes with water, solids and liquids. On account of its being easily absorbed by the skin, its penetration of it and its inalterability it is useful in the preparation of creams. Gelatine.-The variety called grenetine increases the consistency and adhesiveness of creams to the skin. It must, however, always be sterilized before incorporating it in a cream. Agar-agar.-This is a vegetable jelly, with properties similar to those of gelatine, but has the drawback of being propitious to the development of microbes. Glycerine.-Much employed in cosmetics, glycerine should be neutral in action and mixed with water to pre- vent its irritating the skin too much. It mixes poorly with fats, but does so readily with soaps and gelatine. There are few substances of which the tolerance or intolerance by the skin is more difficult to determine. Generally it irritates dry skins, and suits better oily skins. But it is particularly with glycerine that the most irritant chemical combinations are noticed when mixed with the fatty acids of the skin. When glycerine is mixed with equal parts of rose water it is usually well borne by all qualities of skin. Glycerate of starch.-Starch has the advantage of increasing the consistency of glycerine, making it less irritant and easier to be mixed with other substances. It is hard to mix glycerine with fats; white emulsions can be made with fat ingredients, but glycerine separates itself from them. Therefore, creams with a base of glycerine should always be of recent preparation. Glycerine or glycerate of starch are used in the com- position of most of the commercial creams. Oils.-Creams which have oil for a base, particularly 134 COSMETIC GUIDE sweet almond oil, are useful for dry skins. This oil becomes rancid quickly. It is incorporated with vase- line, and lanolin especially, by the addition of inert pow- ders. An antiseptic must also be added. Sweet almonds often replace the natural oils and are much employed for emulsions and lotions. Lanolin (hydrated) :-This is an extract of the grease of sheeps' wool, has the advantage of mixing well with water and oily bodies, of being neutral in reaction and easily absorbed by the skin, particularly when associated with vaseline. The drawback is, that it is slightly irri- tant, very viscous and has a disagreeable odor. It is, nevertheless, a useful ingredient in the so-called indifferent creams. Oleo-calcareous liniment.-Made of lime water and sweet almond oil in equal parts, this mixture combined with vaseline and lanolin, distilled water and powders, makes a foundation for a cream which is very useful for many cosmetical purposes. Cucumber pommade.-With the juice of cucumbers as a. base, a refreshing effect is obtained, soothing the itch- ing and scaling skin. This is the reason that it is so frequently used in the preparation of creams, emulsions and lotions. Paraffin.-Derived from petroleum, it is oily and col- orless when liquid, whitish in solid form. Small quantities of paraffin increase the consistency of creams. It may take the place of vaseline or be mixed with it. Sapolan.-A combination of naphtha, lanolin and soap, which can be mixed with large quantities of water. Its brown color prevents its being used for cosmetical pur- poses. COMPOSITION OF CREAMS 135 Soap.-Sometimes Castile soap mixed with glycerine and glycerate of starch, is used. Generally almond soap is employed or some of the stearate soaps. Almond soap.-Is obtained by the action of caustic soda upon sweet almond oil. It contains neither glycer- ine nor alkalines in excess. It forms emulsions like Cas- tile soap with wax, spermaceti, oily salves, essential oils and resins. Stearates of potash, soda and ammonia.-These are a kind of soap resulting from the combination of stearic acid with the lye of soda, potash or ammonia. They soften the skin and hold the powder on the face. Stearate creams are mixtures of glycerine and water. They are neutral and indifferent. Vaselines.-Products of petroleum. They are both liquid (oil of vaseline) and solid. They do not ferment, nor are they affected by the air, and are insoluble in water and glycerine. Vaselines are not absorbed by the skin unless with the addition of lanolin. For cosmetic purposes, vaseline must be absolutely neutral. For creams, vaseline is mixed with lanolin and water. As there is little or no absorption it forms a protective covering for the skin. On account of the derivatives of the petroleum from which vaseline is made creams with a base of vaseline cleanse the skin; but they dry it, irritate it and cause congestion when their use is continued too long. 4.-Complex Combinations used in a natural state or as a base for creams.-Most of these mixtures are medicated preparations. Sapolan and oleocalcareous liniment have already been mentioned. Recently a mixture of glycerine, neutral soap and peroxide of hydrogen has been tried as a cream or as the base for creams. Also a mixture of 136 COSMETIC GUIDE glycerine, rose water and peroxide of hydrogen has been used. 5.-Powders.-Powders which enter into the composi- tion of creams are analogous with those which consti- tute face powders. These are powders made from starch, wheat, rice, arrowroot, magnesia, talcum, carbon- ate of chalk, oxyde of zinc. These powders are mixed with the creams in small quantities and help to increase their consistency and bind their different constituents together. 6.-Perfumes.-The number of perfumes incorporated with creams is considerable. They are essential oils or essences (heliotrope, violet, etc.), animal products (amber, musk), resins (benzoin, styrax), compound products (vanilla, ionone). In reference to these latter, it must be understood that eruptions may follow their use, such as those which come from using bromides. 7.-Coloring matters.-Creams are sometimes colored with carmine, eosine, alkanet and cochineal. 8.-Chemical substances.-These are used for facilitat- ing the mixing, preserving the materials used, and for modifying the action of the cream. THE MANNER OF PREPARING CREAMS. The methods used in making creams are complex and vary according to their composition. Creams being at the same time fatty emulsions and aqueous mixtures, it is important to achieve an intimate blending of their various constituent parts. Glycerine, aqueous solutions, lanolin, distilled waters and alcohol are mixed cold with powders by prolonged trituration with pestel and mortar, COMPOSITION OF CREAMS 137 Oils and fats are dissolved hot or cold in their sol- vents. Gelatine is preferably dissolved in hot water. When a cream contains water, alcohol, glycerine, and vaseline, it is necessary to incorporate once or twice their weight in lanolin with them. In order to obtain an intimate mixture of powder in a solution of alcohol or with aqueous or oily bodies, it is necessary to use agents which will make an emulsion, such as: gum arabic or tragacanth, jellies or gelatine, the white of eggs, milk, caseine, saponin, tincture of quillaya or soaps. Incompatibilities in the making of creams.-There are a certain number of substances which it is difficult or impossible to combine with each other in the manufac- ture of creams. Thus, glycerine cannot be mixed with fats, vaseline or lanolin. It causes borate of soda to turn acid. The following hints should be observed : 1. Iodine with creams containing glycerine gives a violet color. 2. Tincture of guaiacum and gum tragacanth give a violet color. 3. The alkalies, carbonate of soda and potassa, and musk, will evolve ammonia out of the stearate of ammo- nia. 4. Carmine in creams containing stearates will give a violet color. 5. Sulphur combined with mercury turns the cream black. Hence, the face should never be washed with a sulphur lotion after a cream containing mercury has been used. 138 COSMETIC GUIDE A healthy face, a young woman do not need cream. Cream should not be kept on during the night unless there are special reasons for it. Cream closes the orifices of the glands and prevents the normal functions of the skin. It should be applied in the morning and retained till before going out. For the toilet, cream is only put on as a very thin coating to hold the face powder. Cream is indicated for the face under the following conditions: WHEN CREAMS SHOULD BE USED. 1. For dry, scaly skins. 2. Always when the face is to be exposed to the sun's rays, the air, changes of temperature (at the sea coast, or when mountaineering, bicycling, automobiling). 3. For diseases and imperfections of the face. When- ever the face is too shining, or covered with acne pus- tules (pimples), blackheads (comedons), wrinkles or any blemishes. As a rule it is better not to use cream before the age of thirty, and to remember that once their use has been commenced it will have to be continued. To apply creams properly, use a piece of absorbent sterilized cotton, or very fine linen. Spread lightly fol- lowing the course of the folds and going always in the same direction, namely, from the middle of the face towards its circumference, from the middle of the fore- head towards the ears, from the nose towards the cheeks and chin. HOW TO USE CREAMS. DISCOLORATIONS 139 Creams are removed in different ways according whether they are soluble or insoluble. Soluble creams with a base of glycerine, jellies or gum tragacanth are readily removed with a cloth moistened in cold boiled water when the skin is dry, slightly warm if the skin is oily. Insoluble creams containing vaseline, oils and fats are taken off with linen moistened in hot water, or with a small wad of absorbent cotton soaked in white neutral vaseline well heated. CROW'S FEET.-Little wrinkles at the distal corners of the eye. See under article on Wrinkles. CYSTS.-Cysts are often seen upon the face under the eyes. They are small whitish bodies, which originate from obstructions of the orifices of the sebaceous or sudoriferous glands. They are often called milium. They are observed on newborn babies, with adults, on dry skins and on old people. The article on dry skin and dry seborrhoea deals with their treatment. Sometimes it is necessary to open them. This is best accomplished by means of a needle heated to a white heat. DEPILATORY POWDERS.-See Hypertrichosis, Electrolysis, Hair on the face. DISCOLORATIONS (See Chloasma, Facial Blem- ishes).-Change of the color of the face through an excess or a want of pigment. Excess of pigment occurs in chloasma (with pregnant women) and in freckles. Loss of color is noted in lepra, syphilis and some skin diseases like vitiligo. Often a combination of excess of color and loss of color are present together. 140 COSMETIC GUIDE To prevent stains of the skin, the sun's rays must be avoided, as well as exposure to wind; gastro-intestinal disorders, ovarian and uterine diseases, infections and specific diseases must be treated. Also it must be kept in mind that arsenic, taken internally may cause excess of color. Local treatment consists in rubbing with mercurial solutions principally. Bichloride of mercury 0.15 to 0.30 grammes Chlorhydrate of ammonia... .0.15 to 0.30 - Emulsion of almonds 120 - Sublimate of mercury 1 gramme Sulphate of zinc 2 - Acetate of lead 2 - Distilled rose water 250 - Spirits of lavender 50 - For external use only. Very irritant; strong poison. DOWN.-See Hair on the Face. DRESSINGS.-Moist compresses (boiled in water) are often used for cleansing the skin, covered with oiled silk; these compresses, as thick as cataplasms or cotton wads, ought to be used in cases of inflammation of the skin and where crusts have formed. In suppurating acne, in certain forms of granular acne with erythema, moist dressings are excellent soothing remedies. Their use must not be prolonged, for fear of causing macera- tion, softening and flaccidity of the skin. DRYNESS OF THE SKIN.-This must not be con- founded with dry seborrhoea, pityriasis, scales, etc., (see those articles). Dryness of the face comes either from the absence of perspiration, or from some fault in the working of the DRYNESS OF THE SKIN 141 sudoriferous glands. It may also be the result of irrita- tion of the skin caused by soap, the wind or the sun, among persons with fine skins (children and blondes). Sometimes it arises from anemia and debility. It is often accompanied by erythema or granular acne. Care or Toilet of Dry Face. After washing with tepid water and drying with a fine, soft towel, apply these lotions alternately: First day: Sublimate of mercury 0.50 grammes Tincture of benzoin 15 - Water 500 - Second day: Subacetate of lead 5 grammes Tincture of benzoin 15 - Water 500 - If the skin peels, cease these applications; for they are irri- tating. Ointments. Pure lanolin or lanolin 50 grammes Foam of neutral soap 50 - Ichthyolate of zinc 20 grammes Lanolin 40 - Menthol 6 - For dry itching skins. Peruvian balsam 10 drops Powdered sugar 4 grammes Yolk of an egg Distilled rosewater 180 grammes 142 COSMETIC GUIDE After using a cream, powder with: Venetian talcum 40 grammes Starch 65 - Subnitrate of bismuth 5 - On a peeling skin apply for ten minutes the following: White wax 10 grammes Oil of sweet almonds 40 - Distilled rose water 20 - Orange flower water 10 - Lanolin 2 - Salicylate of soda 0.10 - DYES.-The question of dyeing the hair or beard is so important that this subject cannot be passed over without something being said about its dangers. To dye the hair for the sake of appearing young or to follow the fashion, is offensive and sometimes danger- ous. It is offensive, because it gives one a shock to see a face full of folds and wrinkles, faded and old, with hair not corresponding. It is dangerous, because the hair so often suffers under such treatment; if this is not always the case, it is sufficiently often so to characterize the practice of dyeing the hair as a dangerous one. The hair breaks and falls out under the process, just as it does when bleached by means of peroxide of hydrogen. If this practice of dyeing the hair is offensive when done by old persons, it is equally so when seen among the young, because the hair in a natural state corre- sponds with the color of the eyes and the complexion, and when dyed to a different shade from that given by nature, it corresponds with neither, producing an inhar- monious effect. Often eruptions occur from dyeing, in the form of (weeping) eczemas, break out on the scalp, and are DYES 143 hard to cure. Some dyes cause albuminuria by their absorption into the system, as well as other serious kid- ney and liver troubles. When nitrate of silver and lead are employed, even more serious maladies may result. It is, therefore, wiser to abstain from the use of dyes when it is known that eczemas, liver and kidney troubles are so apt to follow, as it is pretty certain to be the case with persons not very strong and having a tend- ency to such diseases. Hence, in order to guard against such occurrences, none but safe dyes, which contain no poison, should be employed for dyeing the hair, and the work should be left to specialists, who have had practical experience with dyes and their effects. Before using dyes, the oil must be removed from the hair; this is done by means of soapy and alkaline ablu- tions, as boracic acid, bicarbonate of soda, green soap, which it is well to follow with spraying with cologne water, or alcohol and ether in equal parts. No ammonia or bi-chromate or similar chemicals must be used before dyeing the hair. It is often necessary to renew the dyeing process every two weeks or every two or three months, because the hair keeps on growing and the roots show a different color from the rest; also the color changes in time, mak- ing the hair appear multi-colored. The dye is applied by means of a brush. It takes from one to three hours or longer to apply it, according to whether one or more dyes have to be employed. The first application must be allowed to become dry before a second can be made, or until the action of the light has taken effect; as in photography there are successive chemical changes due to the action of light. 144 COSMETIC GUIDE After the completion of the dyeing process, the hair must be washed, in order to remove the excess of color, which might soil the clothing or be absorbed and cause accidents. The stains on the skin must also be removed. This washing should take place an hour after the dye- ing. Soap must be used for the hair when silver salts have been employed; the skin should be washed with iodide of potassium (10 or 20 to 100). When the stains persist, a solution of hyposulphate of soda (5 to 100), or a solution of chlorine (1 to 100) will be necessary. The irritation of the skin may be allayed by soothing creams. The Choice of Dyes.-Dyes are used either to change the color or the shade of the hair, to make brown hair blond, or when white to darken it. Hence, dyes are divided into (1) discoloring (peroxide of hydrogen) dyes; (2) vegetable dyes (henna and indigo) ; these are harmless; (3) metallic dyes (lead, nitrate) ; (4) aniline dyes (paraphenylene-diamine) ; (5) combination dyes. Discoloring Dyes.-Peroxide of hydrogen at 12 vol. This requires successive and repeated applica- tions. The hair is simply moistened with the brush until the required shade is attained. The hair becomes blond, more or less light in color and brittle. Vegetable Dyes.-Henna.-This gives a mahogany color or Venetian blond color, more or less pro- nounced, even as strong as carrot-red. The powder is made into a paste, the hair covered with it and then enveloped with a hot cloth. This remains on for two or three hours according to the shade desired. Henna and Indigo.-The use of these two in the form of powder, either simultaneously or succes- sively, will, according to the length of time given for DYES 145 the application, color the hair jet black. Indigo powder requires the application of moist hot cloths. Gallnut.-Gallnut containing pyrogallic acid, ox- alic acid, is generally used in combination with metallic salts. Aniline Dyes.-These are known in the trade as vegetable dyes, their base being paraphenylene-diamine. When a salt of this kind is mixed, just before using, with peroxide of hydrogen, a beautiful black is attained. By complex mixtures of the aniline derivatives with other substances, blond or Venetian red colors are produced. These dyes have occasioned itching, eruptions and swell- ings with certain persons, also puffy face and eyelids as well as headaches. It is absolutely necessary, after their application, to remove the surplus dye from the hair by repeated wash- ings. Metallic Dyes.-These are mostly lead dyes, which are dangerous; or silver, copper and iron dyes, which are less dangerous to use. The dyes having lead for a base must be repeatedly applied. In the course of a few weeks, after several applications have been made, the hair assumes a yellow, brownish red, and finally a black color. These dyes will not withstand the effects of washing the hair, and besides may cause headaches, tremor, colic and albuminuria. Salves.-These are combinations of dyes, after the fashion of the Orient. They consist (1) of soluble metallic salts as iron, copper; (2) of nutgall or pyro- gallic acid, which is employed in the second application. These dyes give a fine black color and are harmless. 146 COSMETIC GUIDE EARS.-The presence of lumps of cerumen or hard- ened wax (secretion of the glands of the meatus), and of discharges, produces erythema or eczema upon the surrounding skin; it is indispensable in cases of this kind to get the advice of the ear specialist. To clear the ears of wax, pour in oxygenated boracic water of 12 vol., lukewarm; let it remain from ten minutes to a quar- ter of an hour in the canal; then remove and dry with cotton; and afterwards pour in some lukewarm vase- line oil. Oil of vaseline 20 grammes Tincture of benzoin 0.50 - Resorcin 0.25 - Neutral glycerine 18 grammes Borate of soda 5 - Tincture of quillaya 2 - Against chapping. Salol 4 grammes Olive oil 4 - Camphorated oil 10 - Vaseline 100 - Balsam of Peru 3 - Laudanum 10 drops Oxide of zinc 10 - To harden the ears use lotions of lemon juice. To redden use carmine and vaseline, or rouge. ELECTROLYSIS.-Electrolysis is a method of applying the constant current either for the destruction of certain anomalies of the epidermis, particularly of warts, hairs, birthmarks, or for introducing medical sub- stances into the integument (ionization). EMULSIONS FOR THE TOILET 147 Electrolysis consists of an entirely medical method which has its advantages and disadvantages, even its dangers, and is not a proper subject to be discussed in these pages. EMULSIONS FOR THE TOILET.-These are more used than almost any other toilet preparation. They suit admirably when diluted with water, for all congested, irritable, dry and scaly skins; they also have astringent and stimulating properties. Milk is sometimes added to these mixtures on account of its soothing and softening effect. Their effectiveness and usefulness is mainly due to the benzoin, resin and balsams which they contain. Tincture of benzoin 15 grammes Rose water 1000 - Use pure or diluted with water. Rose water 300 grammes Tincture of myrrh 10 - Tincture of benzoin 10 - Essence of lemon 4 - Tincture quillaya, Q. S. to make an emulsion. Strawberry emulsion. Strawberry juice % tumbler Borax powder one pinch Eau de cologne 20 drops Milk of almonds % glass Or fresh milk % glass To put on face after washing it. Sweet almonds 40 grammes Bitter almonds 10 - Rose water 100 - Extract of benzoin 1 - Two teaspoonfuls in 1 quart of water. Antiseptic emulsion. 148 COSMETIC GUIDE Emulsion for moist relaxed skin. Alcohol 90% 20 grammes Tincture of benzoin 20 - Rectified vinegar 20 - A few drops put into the bowl of wash water. Emulsion for irritable skin. Rose water 500 grammes Tincture benzoin 5 - Tincture myrrh 5 - Lemon water 10 - Wash face with it using a wad of cotton. Mix tincture of benzoin with rose water to the proportions of 15 grammes benzoin and 1 quart rosewater. This is very simple and useful. Lanolin 25 grammes Fresh pork fat 50 - Soap of fine oil 15 - Pure glycerine 10 - Borate of soda 5 - Rose water 75 - Orange flower water 7.50 - Essence of geranium roseate *4 - Cut soap in small pieces and dissolve with the lanolin and lard. Mix in another vessel the glycerine, borate of soda and the liquids. Hygienic emulsion. EPHELIDES (Freckles).-See Facial blemishes. ERYTHEMA.-Is a congestive condition of the skin, more or less permanent, due to troubles or disturbance in the circulation, arterial or veinous, caused frequently by general (heart) or local diseases (wounds, irritants, diseases of the nasal mucous membrane). EXCESSIVE PERSPIRATION 149 General treatment must be directed to the cause: qui- nine, ergot, digitalis, injections, footbaths, hand baths, douches; electric treatment, blood letting may be neces- sary. Local treatment consists in massage by electricity, high frequency currents, scarifications. Lotions and astringent sprays : aromatic vinegars, alco- holic lotions. Liniment. Ichthyol 5 grammes Oxide of zinc . 10 - Prepared chalk 20 - Starch 20 - Lime water and linseed oil, Q. S. for 100 grammes. (Da Costa). EXCESSIVE PERSPIRATION or Hyperhidrosis, Moist Skin.-Excessive perspiration is due to a condition peculiar to the nervous system, caused by weakness, ex- haustion or a gouty state. Sweat is rarely visible in a normal condition. It increases as the result of physical exertions, heat, illness, stomach or lung diseases, or mental troubles (emotions, reflex action). To control it cold lotions must be used, and astringent lotions followed by powdering. Lotions and astringent applications. Benzoin 50 grammes Alum 50 - Water 500 - Alcohol 90% 30 grammes. Vinegar 30 - Benzoin 30 - 150 COSMETIC GUIDE Saponin 10 - Water 500 - Eau de Cologne 200 - Lotion for ill smelling sweat. Peruvian halsam 1 gramme Formic acid 3 - Hydrate of chloral 5 Absolute alcohol 100 - To be used diluted in from three to four times its amount of water, for fear of irritation. Then powder with: Starch 10 'grammes Oxide of zinc 10 - Pure tannin 10 - For excessive perspiration in the axilla (under the arms), Prof. Riehl, of the Dermatological Clinic of the Vienna General Hospital, recommends the use of thin layers or sheets of absorbent cotton placed in the axilla, which may be renewed as often as necessary. Powder also with the following mixture, if the case requires it: Salicylic acid 0.5 grammes Oxide of zinc 5 - Wheat starch ; 50 The Salicylic Acid may be increased to two and three per cent. Also washing the axilla with acetic water, Burow solution, one-half per cent, carbolic acid solution frequently. Sweating feet also are benefited by the above treat- ment ; only the daily change of stockings, powdering same with the above mentioned powder is a perquisite to the latter treatment. EYES 151 EXCRESCENCES.-The signification of this word is very variable. Every growth on the face is usually called an excrescence. Warts are excrescences. Around the age of forty to fifty grayish, blackish marks, spots and growths appear which belong under this head. These are commonly called senile warts. If these growths are irritated by rubbing or acci- dentally injured in any way, epitheliomata or cancer of the skin may develop. For cosmetical treatment, see article on warts, moles. EYES.-The eyes are often affected by maladies of the face or by some disease of one or other portion of this organ. Diseases of the conjunctiva, the iris, or the innermost part of the eye belong to the realm of the oculist. Often headaches and fatigue of the eye are symptoms of short or long sightedness which necessitates the wear- ing of glasses, but this must be decided by an eye spe- cialist. It is dangerous to use belladonna or atropine in order to increase the brilliancy of the eyes and to enlarge the pupils. Eyelids, if red, swollen, covered with crusts, or secre- tions glueing the eyelids together in the morning, with itching, must be bathed in hot boiled water, chamomile or rose water, lettuce water, etc. Lotions. Rose water 100 grammes Boracic acid 10 - A few drops in hot water, and eyes bathed with it. 152 COSMETIC GUIDE Distilled ammonia water 30 grammes Sol. acetate of lead 8 - camphorated alcohol 8 - Sulphate of zinc 2 - A few drops to a teaspoonful in a pint of hot water. Eye lotion. Ichthyol 30 grammes Distilled water 70 - Tincture of quillaya, Q. S. for an emulsion. A few drops in hot water. Brush with the following solution: Ointment for inflamed eyes. Lard 4 grammes White precipitate 0.10 - Peruvian balsam 0.15 - Tannic acid 1 gramme Vaseline 10 - Eyebrows.-The same indications as for Eye- lashes, the Beard and Hair. The sensitiveness of the eyelids and surrounding parts of the eye must be con- sidered when making applications. Falling eyebrows may be restored by the Quartz Lamp treatment. (See Dr. Muller's book on Loss of Hair, etc.) Falling of eyebrows and thin eyebrows. Alcohol at 80% 10 grammes Boracic acid water 100 - Essence of violet 10 drops Alcohol 90% 100 grammes Tincture in quinquina 5 - EYEBROWS, EYELASHES 153 Rose water 100 grammes Acetic acid ... 12 - Tincture cantharidis 12 - Essence of violet 25 - This is an irritant lotion. For greasy eyebrows. Glycerine 25 grammes Alcohol 10 - Rose water 10 - Eyebrows with small pellicules. Pellicules. Beef suet 25 grammes Sweet almond oil 15 Flowers of sulphur 2 - Salicylic acid 0.50 grammes Oxide of zinc 1 - Starch 1 - Vaseline 20 - Eczema of eyebrows and lashes. Lead plaster 5 grammes Castor oil 5 - Balsam of Peru . 0.50 - To blacken the eyebrows. Nitrate of silver 1 gramme Extract walnut leaves 2 , - Lard 10 - Vaseline 10 .- Essence of bergamot 10 drops Pass over eyebrows on piece of cotton. Eyelashes.-The eyelashes frequently come out as the result of eye fatigue (fine needle work or pro- longed reading), inflammation of the eyelids, glands, and conjunctivitis. 154 COSMETIC GUIDE Bathing the eyelids in very hot water is preventive as well as a cure for this trouble. In extreme cases epilation may be resorted to, then cauterization with lunar caustic. Lotions of salicylic acid 1 to 2,000; bathe the eyelids, and afterwards apply the following salve on the edge of the eyelids: For falling eyelashes with inflammation.* Lotion of salicylic acid 1 to 2,000; bathe the eyelids, and afterwards apply the following salve on the edge of the eyelids. Gallic acid 1 gramme Castor oil 4 - Vaseline 10 - Spirits of lavender 6 drops Infusion of tea 100 grammes Quinine sulphate 1 - Use as a lotion. For falling eyelashes. Ointments. Cold cream 10 grammes /3 napthol .... 0.01 - Salol t 0.01 Iodol 0.01 Apply at night. Vaseline 2.50 grammes Lanolin . 2.50 - Oxyde of zinc 0.02 - or Vaseline 5 grammes Boracic acid 0.20 - *Falling eyelashes, like falling eyebrows, may be restored by the Quartz Lamp treatment. See Loss of Hair, etc., by Dr. Richard W. Miiller. EYES-CONJUNCTIVITIS 155 Falling eyelashes. Distilled water 490 grammes Alcoholic extract rosemary 5 - Alcoholic extract arnica 5 - Bichloride of mercury 0.20 - To thicken, strengthen and improve eyelashes, pull out those which do not grow straight. Eyelids.-See Conjunctivitis, Eyelashes, Styes, un- der article on Eyes. Black circles under the Eyes.-The black rings around the eyes result from fatigue, night watches, or from utero-ovarian diseases. Certain persons of brown skin have brown eyelids which are permanently dis- colored. In order to diminish this brown discoloration, or make it disappear altogether, they should be bathed in hot water, mornings and evenings, hot compresses of water with the addition of a small quantity of lead water should be applied. Conjunctivitis (See also Watering eyes, further on in this chapter). Conjunctivitis is recognized by red- ness of the eyelids and their inner mucous lining. It is caused by external, nasal or internal affections. When of external origin it appears most often as the sequel of an infection, or comes as the effect of dust, high winds, or eye strain. When of nasal origin it accompanies an ordinary cold in the head. When, how- ever, it is of internal origin, it is the precursor of measles, and appears in numerous cases of illness, when the conditions are bad, as with the debilitated, the lymphatic or scrofulous subjects. 156 COSMETIC GUIDE Conjunctivitis is also often accompanied by blepharitis, keratitis and iritis; all of which require the expert treat- ment of the oculist. Lotion. Sulphate of zinc 0.60 grammes Rose water 125 - or Borate of soda 8 grammes Distilled water 200 - In the treatment of conjunctivitis, collyria are fre- quently employed, which are applied by means of a drop- tube, one or more drops put into the eye; the head is bent backwards, the eyelids held open with two fingers of the left hand. The eyelids are shut and opened sev- eral times. Collyria. Distilled water 10 grammes Adrenaline, 1-1000 0.02 - One or two drops in the eye. Sulphate of zinc 0.05 gramme Distilled water 10 Three drops in the eye mornings and evenings, or Chloride of zinc 0.01 gramme Distilled water 5 - Two drops three times a day. Ointment. Vaseline 10 grammes Aristol 0.25 - Redness of the Eyes.-See Conjunctivitis, Eyelashes, Styes. SWELLED EYELIDS 157 Styes.-Little white lumps on the edge of the eye- lid often accompanied with conjunctivitis. These are little furuncles on the eyelids, very painful, and usually several come in succession. Try to abort with an application of tincture of iodine, done very carefully. Ointments. Oil of vaseline 50 grammes Oil of sweet almonds 50 - White vaseline 10 grammes Birch oil 10 - White precipitate 10 - Swelled Eyelids.-This is a frequent companion of all troubles of the eyelids, conjunctivitis, blepharitis and others. When the lower eyelids are swollen it may be a symp- tom of albuminuria. The swelling of eyelids with which we have to do here, however, is caused by night watches, hard work, sorrows and tears. Hot compresses, astringents and antiseptics, must be used; and, in chronic cases, massage. Astringent solution. Distilled rose water 125 grammes Pure alum 5 - Oil of vaseline 5 grammes Castor oil 5 - Gallic acid 0.50 - Tannin 0.50 - Extract of violets 1 drop Ointment. 158 COSMETIC GUIDE Watering Eyes.-Watering or weeping eyes may be the consequence of an obstruction in the lachrymose ducts. It is frequent in winter; and it comes as the result of a strange body or an irritation of the eyes, particu- larly of the conjunctiva and eyelids. For the prevention and cure of this condition, bathe with very hot water, either pure, or with the addition of astringents (lead water, from 5 to 20 grammes in a bowl of water). Collyria. Distilled rose water 10 grammes Alum 0.5 - One or two drops. Lanolin 10 grammes Lard 10 - Aqueous extract of belladonna 0.50 - Aqueous extract of aconite 0.50 - Apply at inner corner of eye in small quantities. Ointment. FACIAL BLEMISHES.-Blotches on the face are of many aspects and forms, and of various origin. (See Chloasma and Discolorations, Redness, Rosacea.) Their color varies from bright yellow to blackish brown; some are white; other colors are rare or artifi- cial. Spots of brown color are: (1) Lenticular birth marks or freckles, brown spots, liver spots; (2) In plaques: chloasma or marks of pregnancy, sunburn caused by the sun and air. The white or black spots are: (1) In circular or irregu- lar plaques: vitiligo, of nervous origin; leucoderma, FACIAL BLEMISHES 159 of syphilitic or leprous origin; (2) reticular or network; syphilitic pigmentations, generally on the neck. There are also white and black marks found together: syphilitic leuko-melanoderma. There are other marks the origin of which is con- genital, or are birthmarks: lentigo; others are frequent among blondes, the red-haired, upon fine skins under the influence of sun and air: ephelides or freckles. The sun causes also brown pigmentations of the skin called sunburn. Pregnancy causes special spots: chloasma or marks of pregnancy frequent among brunettes. Diseases of the liver, of the suprarenal capsules, certain general dis- eases (syphilis, leprosy), certain medications (arsenic, the salts of silver), also cause numerous pigmentations. Finally tattooing, seldom on the face, gives peculiar colors. Certain of these pigmentations or spots, particularly sunburn and freckles, may be prevented by wearing a veil of green or blue color, of thick gauze; by avoiding the sun and variations of temperature (parasols), or may be diminished by precautions and applications of pre- ventive cosmetics (greasing the face). The spots which have their origin at birth (lentigo), or.those which develop upon fine skins (ephelides), are the most difficult to get rid of. The white spots (vitiligo) being a discoloration of the skin, usually of nervous origin, must be treated by general treatment and by electricity (electric methods). Blemishes caused by syphilis and leprosy necessitate the treatment of these diseases. The spots caused by medicine call for a cessation of that medicine. 160 COSMETIC GUIDE Lentigo or Freckles. - These are little brownish yellow spots, frequent among blondes or red-haired people, coming spontaneously. They resemble birth marks. Same treatment as for chloasma, freckles and sunburn. White discolored blotches and pigmentation or spots with an excess of color. Fig. 21.-Case of freckles. Remedies for freckles, red blotches, etc.-In this article I shall only give the mildest remedies. Distilled water 250 grammes Sulphate of zinc 2 - Acetate of lead 2 - - Freckles. FACIAL BLEMISHES 161 Sulphate of zinc 4 grammes Potass. Sulphuret 4 - Rose water 120 - Yellow marks on face. Wash once a month with the yolk of an egg. Or still better: take the juice of a lemon and with the white of an egg make a sort of cream; apply as an ointment on the face. For a clear complexion. /3 napthol 10 grammes Oxide of zinc 12 - Powdered starch 12 - White vaseline 35 - Apply at night and keep on one hour; in the morning apply cream, then powder. Yellow complexion and acne pimples. Water 1000 grammes Sulphuret of potassium 25 - Use as a lotion. The removal of red blotches is incomplete, lengthy, difficult and often dangerous to effect. It is necessary to employ for this purpose medicaments which contain lead, mercury and sulphur. The salts of lead and mercury are poisons and irritants. The use of sulphur must be avoided when these salts are em- ployed, and if peroxide of hydrogen has been used first, it must be thoroughly wiped off; without these precau- tions, the skin of the face will become quite black. Irritant methods causing loss of the skin. Touching with weak solutions of hydrochloric acid at 5 to 10 to 100 water; acetic acid diluted in half its quan- tity of water or glycerine. 162 COSMETIC GUIDE Irritating application. Corrosive sublimate 0.50 grammes Distilled water or alcohol 50 - Applied only to the spots for 4 hours. It produces a vesi- cation (blister) which must be cared for. Lotions for freckles. The face should be washed with hot tea and, at night, lotions such as the following should be used: Chlorate of potash 2 grammes Rose water 250 - Distilled water 250 grammes Liquid ammonia 2 - Essence of lemon 10 drops Corrosive sublimate ^gramme Glycerine 5 drops Eau de Cologne 10 grammes Talcum 10 - Alcohol 90% 100 - Apply this lotion at bedtime on gauze and cover with oiled silk. Ointments. Cold cream 30 grammes Essence of anis 2 -• Sulphur flowers 1 - Cocoabutter 10 grammes Castor oil 10 - Oxide of zinc 0.20 - White precipitate 0.10 - Rose essence 10 drops White of one egg Barley flour 20 grammes Rose water 30 - Apply at bedtime and let dry on, FURUNCLES 163 FLACCID OR FLABBY SKIN, baggy cheeks, flaccid cheeks (See also Wrinkles).-The use of fresh cold water for washing is to be recommended more than any- thing else for this condition. Toilet waters containing vinegars, alcohols and astringent preparations, elec- tricity, local douches and massage must be resorted to according to the necessities of the case. Liq. alum acet 10 grammes Alcohol sol. of lavender 20 - Alcohol sol. of verbena 50 - Cologne water 30 - Lotion. FRECKLES.-See Facial blemishes. FROSTBITES.-Frostbites are most often found upon nose and ear, the most prominent parts of the face. Their treatment must be medical and not cosmeti- cal. In the beginning treat same as itching. Hygiene, habits, the health in general have a great deal to do with the production of frostbites. As a preventive Brocq recommends the following pills. Sulphate of quinine 1 gramme Aqueous extract of ergot 0.50 - Powdered digitalis 0.10 - Powdered belladonna root 0.05 - For 40 pills. Take 3 daily for four weeks or longer. FURUNCLES.-Furuncles may appear occasionally upon the face. These are hard circumscribed red swell- ings of the size of the head of a pin to that of a hazel- nut. In the centre is a vesicle, which upon opening dis- charges a reddish watery substance. After a few days pus follows, 164 COSMETrC GUIDE It is important to prevent suppuration and for this purpose cold compresses are used with good results. Also the following mixture : Ointment. Ammonia sulpho-ichthyolate 3.0 grammes Corrosive Sublimate 0.1 - Vaseline 30.0 - Rub this in twice a day. (Unna). HAIR ON THE FACE.-Hair on the face is of two varieties: fine and light colored down; hard and black hairs; these last give more resistance to depilatory preparations. The destruction of the hair may be accom- plished: by pincers (epilation), by electricity (electro- lysis), by X-rays (radio-therapy). I shall concern myself here only with depilatories, the use of which has but a temporary effect, and which besides, are very irritating to the skin. There are in use also preparations which hide the hairs by bleaching them, especially hydrogen peroxide at 12 volumes, either as a lotion or as ointments. Ointments. Hydrogen peroxide 10 grammes Lanolin 10 - Vaseline 20 - (Lefebre). Lanolin 10 grammes Simple ointment 10 - Liquor sodi chlori natr 10 - Peroxide of hydrogen a 12 vol 10 - Precipitate of sulphur 4 - (Monin). HAIR ON THE FACE 165 Preparations for Removal of Hair.*-These prepara- tions have as their base alkaline sulphurs (potassium, sodium), earthy alkalines sulphurs (calcium, bary- um, strontium), arsenical sulphurs (orpiment or arsenic trysulphide) incorporated to inert powders. For use they are diluted with water to the consistency of a paste, or are mixed with glycerates of starch, or oxide of zinc. The depilatories having arsenic as their base must be rejected and instead those having sulphohydrate of cal- cium, mono-sulphur of sodium and sulphate of baryum be used. „ » These depilatories must be used very carefully. Pro- ceed thus: Try first the sensibility of the skin by using it on some hairy part of the limbs; if no great irritation results, it may then be applied on the face. Follow with lotions and soothing ointments. Depilatories are always applied in the form of a paste. Left on two or three minutes. Then wiped off, the place washed, and powdered with an inert powder, or dressed with glycerated cream or ointment. The hairs should come off in washing. One application should be suffi- cient. Depilatories. Quicklime 10 grammes Glycerated starch 10 - Sulphuret of soda 3 - Oxide of zinc 3 - Rose water, Q. S. for consistency of paste. *See Hair, Its Nature, Growth and Most Common Affections, With Hygienic Rules for Its Preservation, by Richard W. Muller, page 73, etc. 166 COSMETIC GUIDE or Quicklime 8 grammes Sulphuret of soda 3 - Oxide of zinc .. 2 - Glycerated starch 10 - Before applying add enough rose water to make a paste. Tincture iodine 3 grammes Spirits of turpentine 6 - Castor oil 4 - Alcohol 48 Collodion 100 - 'Cover the hairy parts with this, three or four days in succes- sion; all the hairs will adhere on removing the crust formed by the collodion. It must be understood that the plastered places must not be washed till the operation is finished. Various depilatories. Lanolin 5 grammes Rose water 5 - Sulphur of barium 2 - Vaseline 20 - This is one of the best. Carbonate of soda 10 grammes Chalk 5 - Fresh lard 40 - These two depilatories are to be applied from three to four minutes. Quicklime 1 gramme Vaseline 12 - Quicklime 115 grammes Powdered iris 15 - Add enough rose water before using to make a paste at the moment of using it. HUMID SKIN 167 HERPES (See also Lips).-Herpes is found in three stages on the face: (1) before eruption, in the form of redness and burning pains; (2) in the vesicular stage; (3) in the crusty, peeling stage when scabs are formed and the healing process takes place. (For salves and ointments, see Lips). HUMID SKIN (See Perspiration).-Excess of gland- ular action (sudorific and sebaceous glands) will make the skin oily and shining, often seen in acne. Cold douches and friction, spraying and astringents must be employed to remedy this condition. Lotions. Tannic acid 0.50 gramme Spirits of verbena 300 - Eau de Cologne 300 - Afterwards powder with: Rice powder 40 grammes Boracic acid 20 - Starch 20 grammes Bicarbonate of soda 5 - Boiled water 1 quart Eau de Cologne 100 grammes Hydrate of chloral 1 - Phenic acid 0.25 - Spirits of lavender 30 drops Milk of roses. Rose water 300 grammes Infusion of roses 300 - . Neutral glycerine 300 - Spirits of geranium 10 - Salicylic acid 2 - 168 COSMETIC GUIDE HYPERHIDROSIS.-See Excessive Perspiration. HYPERTRICHOSIS.-See Hair on the Face. INTOLERANCE OF THE SKIN.-A condition of sensitiveness of the skin for certain soaps, cosmetic rem- edies, irritants, air and sun. This is frequently found among young children. Cer- tain persons have special idiosyncrasies, not being able to use some drugs without getting eruptions and intoler- able itching. This happens most often when dyes are used. ITCHING, PRURITUS.-Itching is often caused by local troubles, in ear, nose, eye: frostbites, otitis, rhin- itis, conjunctivitis, eczema; or generalized all over the face: urticaria, symptomatic pruritus. The cause must be removed. Locally: spray the face with antiseptic vinegar lotions diluted with water, apply compresses of the same mix- ture. The lotions given below should be diluted with water, if irritant. Powder the face, if oily; apply cream, if dry. Lotions for itching. Salicylate of soda 8 grammes Bicarbonate of soda 8 - Boiled water 1000 - Sterilized water 100 grammes Lead water 100 - Camphorated alcohol 100 - Phenic acid 2 grammes Tincture quillaya 5 - (Gastou and Guillou.) ITCHING, PRURITUS 169 Carbonate of potash 5 grammes Cherry laurel water 100 - Distilled water 100 grammes Formalin 3 - One teaspoonful to a cup of boiled water (lukewarm). Menthol 0.40 grammes Vaseline 40 - Lanolin 40 - Salves for itching. Balsam of Peru 10 grammes Naphthol 4 - Vaseline 40 - Paste. Phenic acid 0.15 grammes Oxide of zinc 15 - Vaseline 15 - Powders. Starch 100 grammes Subnitrate of bismuth 5 - Salicylic acid 1 - Calcined magnesia 15 grammes Salicylic acid 2 •- Talcum Venetian 30 - Barber's Itch (See Beard and Chin).-The use of the razor often gives rise to scales and sometimes inflamma- tion of the follicles of the hair : sycosis ; very rebellious. JELLIES.-Jellies are made mostly of casein, (albu- men of milk), gelatine. They are also made of the glycerates of starch. COSMETIC GUIDE 170 Water 100 grammes Gelose 1.25 - Glycerine । 10 - Oxide of zinc 10 - Glycerole of starch 100 grammes Salicylic acid 1 - Oxide of zinc, Q. S. to thicken. LENTIGO.-See Facial Blemishes. LIPS.-To keep the lips in good condition it is neces- sary to avoid too much heat, dryness, toothwashes which are too astringent and which contain irritable antiseptic ingredients. Atrophy of the Lips requires careful search for adenoid growths. If there are none, electricity, massage and tonic lotions must be used. For cracked lips. Cocoa butter 20 grammes Oil of sweet almonds 20 - Oxide of zinc 5 - Tincture of vanilla 1 - Boracic acid 1 gramme Neutral glycerine 24 - Anhydrous lanolin 5 - White vaseline 70 - Add color and perfume. Vaseline sterilized 50 grammes Lanolin 25 - Borate of soda 3 - - Essence of bergamot 20 drops Cocoa butter 100 grammes White wax 25 - Castor oil 25 - Infusion of tannin 15 - Infusion of gaultheria 4 - LIPS 171 To protect the lips. Tincture of benzoin 15 grammes Tincture balsam of peru 15 - Put on like a varnish. Herpes, lip sores, fever sores.-Herpes very often appears upon the lips and is very painful and annoying. This is commonly known by the name of fever-sores, they are due to microbic infection. The vesicles must not be disturbed, the crusts which soon follow the formation of the vesicles must be kept on if possible. The following salves will be found effective for allay- ing pain and aiding the healing process: Cocoa butter 2 grammes Oil of sweet almonds 8 - Tincture of benzoin - .10 drops Salicylic acid 1 gramme Oxide of zinc 2 - Lanolin 100 - Tincture of benzoin 30 drops Hypertrophy of Lips (swelling and tumefaction).- It is frequently found in connection with scrofula, maladies of the jaws and teeth, in erysipelas and infec- tions, also at birth as a deformity. The treatment con- sists mainly in electrolysis, scarification and sometimes surgical interference. Pale Lips.-Treat general condition; hot stimulating lotions must be used. Ointment. Rose ointment 20 grammes White wax 20 - Oil of sweet almonds 20 - Rose water 5 - 172 COSMETIC GUIDE Dry Lips.-Use sweet almond oil, cucumber salve, vaseline, lanolin, or this preparation: Glycerate of starch 30 grammes Tincture of benzoin 3 - LOTIONS.-Here follow a number of useful prescrip- tions for face lotions to be used in the morning and eve- ning after washing the face according to the condition of the skin. For this purpose, absorbent sterilized cot- ton is to be used, with which the fluid is taken up and rubbed upon the face. Cotton should also be used for drying the face afterwards, and finally dry or oily cream or powder is to be applied, according to the state of the skin. Lotion for a sensitive irritable skin. Rosewater 100 grammes Boracic acid 1 - Essence of heliotrope 5 drops Lotion for a face with red spots, pimples, blackheads. Biborate of soda 10 grammes Neutral glycerine 80 - Peroxide of Hydrogen 460 - Orange flower water 460 - Lotion for an oily skin. Eau de Cologne 100 grammes Essence of verbena 1 - Menthol 0.25 - Thymol 0.30 - To add to the water. Refreshing lotion. Orange flower water 1000 grammes Pure glycerine 5 - Borax 1 - To be used pure. LOTIONS 173 Princess of Wales lotion for dry skin. Milk half a pint Juice of lemon half a lemon Wash face with this at night. Boracic acid 25 grammes Pulverized borate of soda 75 - To be put into toilet water. Antiseptic lotion for acne. Rose water 100 grammes Whites of 4 eggs Alum 15 Oil of sweet almonds 15 - Boil till it thickens. To be used at night. Lotion for flaccid skin and wrinkles. Lotion for excessive perspiration. Distilled water 1 quart Alum 50 grammes Tincture of benzoin 25 - For use at night. Rose water 60 grammes Cherry lau'rel water 10 - Distilled water 50 - Neutral glycerine 30 - Biborate of soda 5 - Vanillin 0.05 - Softening lotion. Lotion for dry skin. Rose water 900 grammes Tincture of myrrh 10 - Tincture of benzoin 10 - Essence of lemon 4 - Tincture of quillaya, Q. S. to make an emulsion. 174 COSMETIC GUIDE MASKS.-These are applications of mixtures, compo- sitions or tissues which prevent the contact of the air with the skin. They act in two ways: Fig. 22.-Mask for chin and neck. 1. By facilitating the penetration and absorption by the glands and superficial strata of the skin of certain compounds: these are cosmetical or medicated masks. Fig. 23.-Ideal partial mask. 2. By quickening the functions and circulation of the glands, thus aiding to throw off substances which MASKS 175 obstruct the skin and the epidermis: these are rubber masks. Cosmetical Masks.-These are what might commonly be called cataplasms. They act by their heat and humidity. They take the place of compresses which are Fig. 24.-Butterfly mask for nose. Fig. 25.-Mask for the whole chin. covered with water proof tissues. They are analogous with plasters. 176 COSMETIC GUIDE They were frequently used in olden times under the name of husband's masks, because they were put on Fig. 26.-Mask for neck, chin and ears. when retiring and only the husband had the pleasure of seeing them. The "husband mask" of Poppea, one of the most cele- Fig. 27.-Medical mask. brated, was made of rye boiled with oil, so as to make a thick paste, and removed in the morning by bathing the face in milk. MASKS 177 The composition of other masks will be found In the article on the complexion. Masklike applications have been made also of dif- Fig. 28.-Partial butterfly mask. ferent parts of the flesh of animals, particularly of veal. Now-a-days, rubber masks are principally used. In the Fig. 29.-Complete butterfly mask. following pages are reproductions of the cuts of the dif- ferent kinds of vulcanized rubber masks. 178 COSMETIC GUIDE Rubber Masks.-These masks have many different effects, and as it can be seen by the pictures, their forms are numerous. Fig. 30.-Mask placed around eye-sockets. It has already been mentioned that their essential qual- ity is to quicken the functions of different constituents Fig. 31.--Mask for part of chin. of the skin, and on this account they are, along with spraying, one of the best means of cleansing and giving MASKS 179 tone to the skin, and thus preventing wrinkles, conges- tion, dryness, blackheads, greasy seborrhoea and all general eruptions. Fig. 32.-Mask for forehead. But it must not be forgotten that, associated with their use, there must be other treatment, because otherwise they soften the skin and make it flabby. Fig. 33.-Partial Mask. The intermittent application of rubber masks, the mas- sage and sprays, combined and alternated, appear 180 COSMETIC GUIDE to me to be the three most effective means for improving and preserving the condition of the face. Every time the mask is taken off, it should be washed with hot, then with cold boric acid water, and placed to dry, well protected from any dust. MASSAGE.-I have written on massage in the first part of this book "Hygiene of the face," but this subject has assumed such importance in the last few years that I am obliged to revert to it again. There are three kinds of massages: 1. The plastic massage of Dr. Jacquet. 2. The manual massage. 3. The vibratory massage. The plastic massage of Dr. Jacquet is a violent mas- sage that must be done only by the physician. The manual massage can safely be used, when the skin is healthy, as a preventive against wrinkles. Then it should be accompanied by some good lotion and dry frictions. Massage is useful when there is any trouble with the face, because it quickens and therefore regulates the cir- culation ; but it should then be considered only as an accessory to help other cosmetical or medicated remedies. Any one can massage himself every evening before retiring, following the direction of the normal folds of the skin ; it is near these folds wrinkles are likely to occur. The thumb and one or two fingers are used, lightly pressing while gliding and rubbing. The massage lasts five to ten minutes; it is followed by a spray, by an astringent lotion, or with the application of a local mask or bandage if needed. This massage, done from the thirtieth year, when certain troubles begin to show, may prove of great benefit in the future. MASSAGE 181 Fig. 34.-Massage of forehead (frictions). The masseuse stands to right of the patient. The right hand while kneading moves in a transverse direc- tion. The movements are made in zigzags, commencing at the nasal bone and going towards the forehead up to the hair. The left hand simultaneously moves from the lower part of the forehead to the hair with a light stroking of the skin. Fig. 35.-Smoothing out wrinkles on forehead. Lightly stroking the forehead with the first and second fingers of both hands in a transverse direction. The movements start from the middle of the forehead and continue up to the temples. The masseuse stands behind the patient. 182 COSMETIC GUIDE Fig. 36.-Kneading the nose with thumb and forefinger of right hand. The movements from side to side are gentle vibra- tions extending from the point to the root of the nose. The masseuse stands at the patient's right side, her left hand supporting the patient's head at the back. Fig. 37.-Massage for crow's feet. By means of the thumb of the right hand, the left hand holds the forehead, while the thumb of the other hand gently strokes the temple, going from the corner of the eyelids up to the hair line. MASSAGE 183 Fig. 38.-Massage of upper eyelids. Massage of the upper eyelid. The skin of the eyelid being very delicate it must be stroked very gently with the first finger from the inner corner of the eye near the nose. Fig. 39.-Massage of lower eyelids. Proceed the same as for the upper lid, for swelling and puffing, and for wrinkles. 184 COSMETIC GUIDE Fig. 40.-Patting lower eyelids to remove folds, wrinkles or swelling. Gently tapping the lower lid in order to efface folds and puffiness. The four fingers are used alternately gently touching the eyelids with them as in playing on the piano. Fig. 41.-Stroking the lower eyelid. The first finger moves gently from the root of the nose towards the temples. This movement is for the wrinkles which run from the nose to the temples. MASSAGE 185 Fig. 42.-Kneading right cheek. With both hands half shut, in a transverse direction over face. It is principally the thumb and first fingers which are used: the latter are bent at right angles. Double movement. The right hand half shut, moves in a transverse direction over the face, from the centre towards the outside, then in an inverse direction mov- ing up simultaneously from the lower jaw to the upper maxillary bone and extending the movement to beneath the lower lid. The movement is continued towards the lower jaw and the right ear, passing over the lower maxillary bone as far as the right lower eyelid. The masseuse stands at the right side behind the patient. 186 COSMETIC GUIDE Fig. 43.-Stroking creases under eyes with both thumbs. This movement begins at the bridge of the nose and is directed over the upper maxillary bone under the lower lid to the region of the temples. Fig. 44.-Massage of the face. The fingers of both hands, excepting the thumbs, lean on the cheeks between the upper jaws and the upper branch of the lower jaw. The masseuse begins to move the skin by bringing together and withdrawing in turn as quickly as possible, the ends of the fingers. After a certain number of shakings on one part of the face, the tremulous fingers are applied to another part. The thumbs do not touch the face. The masseuse stands behind the patient. MASSAGE 187 Fig. 45.-Massage of lower part of face. Both thumbs are placed upon the cheeks, while the fingers gently stroke the lower part of the face, going from the chin towards the ears. Fig. 46.-Stroking furrow between nose and lip. This is done with the two thumbs; it goes from the middle of the upper lip to the branches of the upper jaw. COSMETIC GUIDE 188 Fig. 47.-Stroking furrow between chin and lip. This massage done with both thumbs, commences immediately under the lower lips, then continues to the upper branches of the lower jaw. The masseuse being to the right of the patient. Vibratory massage is done with the aid of a special apparatus called the vibrator, by hand or by a machine moved by electricity. It is applied by the subject him- self or by an assistant. The essential condition of the application is that it must not be painful nor continued too long. It acts by grazing (touching lightly), rubbing, or pressing lightly. It is applied by a vibrating stem at the end of which is a bulb, a disc, or a flat or hollow cup. When vibratory massage is joined with electrical ac- tion, it is called sismotheraphy which belongs to the do- main of medicine. The general rule for all facial massage is, first the cleaning of the face and all the instruments as well as the hands; the use of talcum powder or special mixtures, MASSAGE 189 powders and creams varying according to whether the skin is dry or oily. After massage always give the cos- metical care required by the condition of the face. Vibratory massage has acquired a great vogue in the last few years; there are now in the market for this purpose numerous apparatus which can be held in the hand and worked either by the hand left free or by a small electric motor. Fig. 48.-Massage for crow's feet with the Vedee vibrator. Fig. 49.-Massage of nose with the Vedee vibrator. To this mechanical massage is often joined the action of continuous or interrupted currents. The working of these instruments is very simple and most of them are accompanied by directions explaining the manner of using them. MOLES, BEAUTY SPOTS.-Moles when small and advantageously placed, are sometimes called beauty spots. They are black, brown or yellow of color, from 190 COSMETIC GUIDE the size of a lentil to that of a ten cent piece, generally round, but sometimes oval in shape, smooth on the sur- face, often raised over the level of the skin; sometimes one or several hairs grow on them. They are of the same nature as birth-marks. They sometimes come after birth ; and in old age, when irri- tated, may turn into cancer of the skin. It is difficult to cause them to disappear without leav- ing a slight scar. They must be protected from the sun which makes them grow in dimension. Electrolysis, cauterization by a galvanic burner and the thermo-cauter are the best means to use for their destruction. Electrolysis has the advantage of destroying the hair at the same time as the mole. X-rays, radium, removal with bistoury are the only remedies for the larger moles. NECK.-The care to be given to the neck is the same as that required for the face. It is easier to protect the neck from cold, the sun and dust, than the face. But the high collars, ribbons and furs now so much in evidence, must be carefully selected, as the color and material may contain substances which injure the skin. It is preferable to leave the neck uncovered; every- thing which tightens or constricts it, will inevitably lead to erythema and redness of the face. NOSE.-The nose requires special hygienic care, being with the ears, the parts most exposed to the changes of temperature and of the circulation. The shape of the nose varies much; it is straight (Grecian nose) ; it is long and pointed, thin and tapering, NOSE 191 aquiline, big and short, thick, round, retrousse (turned up), also called nose of Cleopara, flat, twisted, etc. Among heavy eaters the nose increases in size, also with persons who pick it or keep touching it all the time, or when there is any disease of the nostrils. Repeated colds in the head with adults, adenoids with children, thicken and redden the nose. With many persons, even when quite young, the end of the nose is red, especially when under the influence of the cold, particularly of cold feet. Excess in eating, reading or writing with the head bent, and certain organic affections cause the nose to become red. Frequently chilblains, black points and blackheads are seen on the end of the nose. The sides of the nose are often greasy. The interior of the nostrils is furnished with long hairs which may be inflamed and cause suppuration, giving then rise to folliculitis or furuncles. Whenever there is an affection of any kind of the nose, it must be examined, and any coryzas, rhinitis, growths or deflections be treated. If the nose has a tendency to get red, it should be bathed, night and morning, when making the toilet, with very hot water, into which has been put some drops of the following so as to obtain a white liquid: Alum 30 grammes Strong vinegar 30 - Tincture of benzoin 10 - Handkerchiefs of fine linen should be used, and used gently. Never pull out the hairs in the nose, but rather cut them. Never press out the blackheads on the nose too violently or too often, but bathe as above. Deformities of the nose are often difficult to correct. 192 COSMETIC GUIDE It has been tried to reduce the size of the nose by wear- ing pincers which constrict the arteries at the root of the nose. Narrow nostrils are dilated with prepared sponges. Little confidence should be placed in injections of paraf- fine for deformities of the nose. Acne of the nose is treated in the same manner as that of the face, which has been explained under that heading at the beginning of this formulary. See also the article on redness, erythema, etc. Blackheads, Blackpoints.-See Blackheads. Coryza, or rhinitis, as it is properly called, should receive general treatment: quinine, remain in bed or in room, hot foot baths with mustard. Menthol 10 grammes Alcohol 90% 78 - Ammonia 12 - Inhale six to seven drops upon a handkerchief several times a day. Inhaling solution for rhinitis. Menthol 1 gramme Eucalyptol 1 Essence of thyme 5 - Essense of lavender 5 - Tincture of tolu 10 - Alcohol at 90% 100 - Put one teaspoonful into a cup, pour boiling water over it and inhale the fumes. Inhalation or fumigation. Ointments. Antipyrin 1 gramme Boracic acid 1 - Vaseline 20 - Apply in nose three or four times daily. NOSE 193 Or Lanolin 15 grammes Glycerine 15 - Salicylate of naphthol 2 - Menthol 0.50 - Eucalyptol 0.50 - Apply three to four times in nose daily. Application. Menthol 0.10 grammes Eucalyptol 0.12 - Oil of sweet almonds 60 - Camphor 0.15 - For children. Instil four times a day into each nostril two or three drops of: Menthol 0.20 grammes Sterilized olive oil 20 - Ointments. Thymol 0.20 grammes Resorcin 0.30 - Vaseline 15 - Vaseline 20 grammes Menthol 0.10 - Extract of nux vomica 0.15 - Distilled rose water 20 drops Chronic Coryza.-This coryza, called as well chronic rhinitis, often causes redness of the nose. It is the origin of sycosis of the upper lip, showing itself by suppurating pimples, or by an eczematous eruption. In rebellious cases, the vapor of iodine should be inhaled; treat by cauterizing and in bad cases by the epilation of the hairs or bristles growing at the entrance 194 COSMETIC GUIDE of the nostrils. With children, and even with adults, examine to see if there are any adenoid growths. Lotions and cauterizations. Nitrate of silver 1 to 3 grammes Distilled water 100 - Apply at night and morning. Peroxide of Hydrogen at 12 volumes. Local applications two or three times a day. Permanganate of Potash at 1-200, 1-100. Use once a day. Thymol 0.50 grammes Resorcin 0.30 - Glycerine 20 For cauterizing; very strong. Solution of permanganate of potash, 0.25 to 0.50 grammes to 1000 grammes of boiled water. Nasal irrigations. Salicylic acid 10 grammes Chloride of sodium 400 - Bicarbonate of soda 200 - Dissolve two teaspoonfuls of this mixture in a quart of lukewarm boiled water. Nasal irrigations are made either with a syringe, or with a glass instrument or with a special nasal douche. These irrigations bring with them the danger of caus- ing the mucus to penetrate into the ear drum, bringing on suppuration of the middle ear (otitis). It must be done with the nostrils closed, the mouth open, while breathing deeply. The nose must not be blown after the irrigation for fear of bringing on otitis. NOSE 195 Iodol 10 grammes Boracic acid powder 10 - Tannin 5 to 10 - Blow into nostrils two or three times a day. Insufflations. Powders for snuffing up. Acetate tartrate of aluminum 4 grammes Lactose 6 - Salol 2 grammes Porate of soda 15 - Boracic acid 15 - (Martin). Sore nose following Coryza.-See Acne, Erythema. Ointment. Cherry laurel water 10 grammes Extract of belladonna 0.50 - Oxide of zinc 10 - Starch 12 - Anhydrous lanolin 22 - Chilblains or Frostbites (see Frostbites for the treat- ment of chilblains in general).-Simple chilblains, a vaso-motor trouble, a sort of local asphyxia, must not be confounded with lupus-pernio, which is a tuberculosis of the skin. Apply hot lotions of water mixed with milk, some toilet water or alcohol with a decoction of nut leaves. Powders. Salicylate of bismuth 10 grammes Talcum powder 10 - 196 COSMETIC GUIDE Ointments. Cocoanut butter 25 grammes Nut oil 5 - Citric acid 0.25 - White precipitate 0.15 - Tincture of musk 10 drops Salicylic acid 1 gramme Oil of sweet almonds 40 - Starch powder 1 - Neutral glycerine 20 - Enlarged nose, hypertrophy (see also Rhinophyma). -Irritations of the nose whether from the interior or from the outside, cause it to become enlarged. Growths from acute coryza, chronic coryza, inflammation and tumors in the interior of the nose all contribute to produce hypertrophy. But this is especially found as a result of erythema and acne; this hypertrophy runs into rhinophyma. The treatment for these affections of the nose is: mas- sage, electrolysis, cauterizing. Nasal Irritation.-See Coryza. Bad odor from nose.-See Ozena. Ozena or stinking nose.-Most painful for the patient and for all who come near. It may result from chronic inflammation causing atrophy of the mucous membrane or it may be the manifestation of syphilis, either heredi- tary or acquired. If syphilis is the cause, the special treatment of this malady is called for. Stinking nose requires local treat- ment from the rhinologist for the affections of throat and nose. The nose must be freed from the mucus, which forms and remains there. Irrigations with per- NOSE 197 oxide of hydrogen containing boracic acid at 12 volumes, mixed with water or even pure, irrigations of a solu- tion of permanganate at 1 per 4,000, to 2,000 or to 1,000; irrigations of salt water, two teaspoonfuls of white salt to 1,000 water. Inhalations. Camphor 8 grammes Tincture of iodine 10 -• Iodide of potassium 2 - Tar 12 - Alcohol 90% 100 - Water 250 - Place in hot water and inhale the vapor. Ointments. Menthol 0.20 grammes Aristol 2 - Sterilized vaseline 25 - Menthol 1 gramme Eucalyptus 0.20 - Oil of vaseline 60 - Menthol 1 gramme Alcohol 60 - Put on handkerchief and inhale. For inhaling. Salol 2 grammes Borate of soda 15 - Boracic acid 15 - Snuff. Menthol 0.10 grammes Chlorate of potash 30 - Put into 1 quart of warm boiled water. Wash. 198 COSMETIC GUIDE Paraffine.-The injection of paraffine is only permis- sible in cases of nasal or other deformities caused by ac- cidents, or with which a person has been born, deformi- ties which render life miserable. The use of injections of paraffine for effacing wrinkles, or to hide any defects depressions or irregularities of the face, may bring about many troubles. I have been re- peatedly consulted by pretty women who, having tried to improve a small defect of the face, have later on been obliged to remove the paraffine. This necessitates inci- sions, producing cicatrices, which often become protrud- ing, white, hard, a real deformity of the skin. Rhinitis.-See Coryza and Ozena. Rhinophyma.-This affection, a true deformity char- acterized by a prominent red nose covered with growths, is he result of chronic inflammation of the sebaceous glands with hypertrophy of these glands. Rhinophyma is treated the same as acne. Besides, scarifications, cauterizations, electrolysis are used. If these means are insufficient, skinning must be resorted to. Redness of the nose (see Congestion, erythema and acne).-Redness of the nose is often accompanied by a shining, greasy condition, or with dryness and desqua- mation. Local causes: Due to diseases of the mucous membrane of the nose or its vicinity: coryza, rhinitis, polypus, ade- noid growths; or to maladies of the skin of the nose: acne, erythema, seborrhoea. General causes: Above all, troubles of the circulation and bad digestion. Troubles of the circulation: Heart disease, lung troubles (asthma), chlorosis, anaemia, diseases of the NOSE 199 uterus, cold feet; corsets, garters or clothing worn too tight; excesses of cold or heat, sudden changes of tem- perature. Digestive causes: Abuse of food, excess in wine or alcohol, gastric or intestinal dyspepsia, reading too soon after eating. The treatment for redness of the nose is, therefore, either general or local; it must be in accordance with the troubles mentioned above; it is necessary to improve the condition of the nasal mucous membrane which should neither be dry nor congested; the obstructing mucus in the nose must be removed. For clearing nose. Menthol 0.10 grammes Resorcin 0.15 - Vaseline 20 - For reducing congestion of mucous membrane. Touching with a solution of antipyrin at 1-10, 1-20, 1-50. Touching with a solution of adrenalin at 1-2000, 1-1000. For the dryness or the mucous secretions of the nose, use fatty substances: vaseline, oil of vaseline, oil of gomenol, either pure or with the addition of medica- ments. For redness of nose. Use boiled water in which has been put a dessert to a tablespoonful of the following mixtures, according to the tolerance of the skin: tincture of benzoin, toilet vinegars, white emulsions, alcoholic lotions. Generally after the lotions or vapor sprays with these mixtures, astringent powders are used for drying, if the 200 COSMETIC GUIDE skin is greasy and shining; fats, particularly vaseline, when the skin is dry; then wipe with a fine linen. Lotions and sprays. Powdered Borax 10 grammes Eau de Cologne 10 - Water (pure) 150 - For lukewarm lotions, the borax is first dissolved in the water. If there is a tendency to acne: Distilled rose water 250 grammes Camphorated spirits 30 -■ Precipitate of sulphur 20 - Gum arabic pulverized 8 - Apply in the morning: Benzine 60 grammes Flowers of sulphur 10 - Essence of rose 1 - Powdered borax 2 grammes Rose water 20 - Orange flower water 20 - Use as a lotion; do not wipe. (Vaucaire). De Lusi recommends the following procedure: Wet compresses of gauze in benzine, (they must be well sterilized and without any dressing and folded to several thicknesses) ; apply for about five minutes (according to tolerance), pressing but not rubbing upon the red places. Subnitrate of bismuth 6 grammes Prepared chalk .■ 15 - Rice flour or starch 45 - Powders. OBESITY 201 Prepared chalk 10 grammes Calcined magnesia 10 - Powdered lycopodium 15 - Starch 100 - Powdered gentian 12 - Ointments. For 15 days apply every evening: Naphthol 0.35 grammes Camphor dissolved in alcohol 0.35 - Precipitate of sulphur 2 - Lanolin 25 - White precipitate 0.50 grammes Boracic acid 1.50 - Vaseline 15 - Ichthyol 0.50 grammes Ergotin 3 - Lanolin 8 Vaseline 8 (De Regia). OBESITY.-Greasy clamminess of the face, which is rarely partial; it accompanies embonpoint and general obesity. The cure of obesity, which belongs to the prac- tice of medicine, calls for the intervention of hygiene, regulation in the way of living and medicaments which only the physician can order and direct. The use of thyroid or of iodine without their being prescribed by a physician has many inconveniences as well as dangers. As the fat cure is often followed by the appearance of wrinkles, it is well to be forewarned. The use of astringent preparations dries the skin and causes congestion; they should neither be used in quan- tity nor for too long a time. 202 COSMETIC GUIDE Mechanical treatment.-Astringent lotions and sprays, local douches, compresses, electrization, massage. Mas- sage with vaseline mixed with iodine may bring on ery- thema and pigmentation. Local medical treatment.-Gives only very relative results, and is besides irritant. Solution. Acetate of lead 2 grammes Sulphate of zinc 2 - Bichloride of mercury 0.50 - Tincture of benzoin 15 - Rose water 300 - As a lotion to be applied twice a day, or applications made for an hour or two at night (Irritant). Ointment. Sub-nitrate of bismuth 3 grammes Oak bark powder 3 - Powdered gall nuts 3 - Powderd alum 5 - Oxide of zinc 3 - Lard 60 - PAINTS.-Paints for the face are used either for hid- ing blemishes and heightening beauty, or for improving the complexion and rejuvenating it. All paints contain poisonous substances. Paints are much used by actors for making up for the stage. When they are to be used the condition of the skin, whether dry or oily, must first be taken into con- sideration. They are best removed by means of vase- line. It is well to remember that when once begun, it is difficult to cease the use of paints on the face; and that they are not alone injurious for the skin which they ruin PAINTS 203 and age, but also for the general health, because of the poisonous chemicals which enter into their composi- tion. Salts of mercury and lead, which are poisons and turn black when exposed to the air, are the foundation of almost all paints. These are colored yellow, red, blue or black according to the purpose for which they are destined. The principal coloring matters are: Carmine, eosin, cochineal, alkanet, sienna, various blues (Prussian, azure, ultramarine), lamp black, China ink. Paints are divided into liquid paints, soft paints, paints in powder form, in sticks, or on papers. To assure the proper mixing of the substances com- posing these paints and their adherence to the skin, gum tragacanth in powder is used. It is well to recollect that paints containing sulphur will turn black those containing bismuth, lead or mer- cury. Even perspiration alone may turn paints brown. White paints in liquid form. They are little in use as they do not adhere as well as soft paints. Rosewater 500 grammes Glycerine 5 - Nitrate of bismuth 250 - Spread over face and let dry. Then brush gently. For dry skin. Oil of sweet almonds 20 grammes Spermaceti 10 - Talcum 9 - Oxide of zinc 1 - Perfume (any) ad libitum. 204 COSMETIC GUIDE Solution of eosin, 1 to 50 30 drops Solution of carmine 10 - Rose water 125 grammes Glycerine 10 - For blondes. Solution of eosin, 1 to 50 10 drops Solution of carmine 20 - Triple extract of rose 20 grammes Rose water 100 cubic centimeters Glycerine 10 - For brunettes. These preparations to be spread over the face before apply- ing rice powder. White, soft paints. These are really creams : White wax 25 grammes White vaseline 250 - Lanolin 125 - Subnitrate of bismuth 200 - Venetian talcum 50 - Spermaceti 15 - (De Tramar). Subchloride of bismuth 100 grammes Powdered Venetian talcum 60 - Fresh lard 60 - Spermaceti 20 - Glycerine pure 40 - (Izard). Wheat or potato starch 50 grammes Rice powder 50 - Essence of geranium 5 drops White powder paint. PAINTS 205 Red liquid paint. Carmine 8 grammes Talcum 55 - Oil 7 drops Gum Arabic sol 15 grammes Glycerine 100 grammes Gum Arabic in fine powder 3 - Rose water 50 -• Eosin 0.50 - Essence of bergamot 10 drops Essence of roses 3 - Red solid paints. White vaseline 70 grammes White wax 15 - Cold cream 15 - Sol. eosin, 1 to 50 20 drops Carmine 20 - Cold cream .. 10 grammes Lanolin 7.50 - Oxide of zinc 7.50 - Carmine . . ..... 0.10 - Eosin 0.01 grammes Tincture benzoin ... 2 - Ol. lini. and aqua calcis aa. 7.50 - Vaseline 10 Lanolin 10 - Lanolin 5 grammes Cocoa butter 5 - Carmine 0.10 - Tincture benzoin 10 drops Talcum 10 grammes Cold cream 10 - Distilled rose water, Q. S. (Pepin). 206 COSMETIC GUIDE Red dry paints. Talcum 50 grammes Carmine 1 - Spermaceti 50 grammes Carmine, red 2 - Talcum 5 - Water, Q. S. Crush and let it get dry. Blue liquid paints. Azure blue 6 grammes Talcum 25 - Gum water, Q. S. to make a paste. Let it get dry. Blue soft paint. Prussian blue 2- 5 grammes White vaseline 100 - Essence of geranium 10 drops Poisonous. Black soft paints. White wax 100 grammes Lard 125 - Lamp black 125 - Lamp black 5 grammes Lanolin 5 - Vaseline 5 - Black dry paints. Lamp black 100 grammes Powdered gum arabic 3 - Essence of roses 5 drops PALENESS 207 PALENESS.-Paleness of the face accompanies ane- mia, convalescence, overwork, sitting up late, night watches, fatigue and nervous troubles. It often coin- cides with dilatation of the vessels and dryness of the skin. Treat the general condition, use stimulants in the form of white emulsions and toilet vinegars. Lotions of water and cold local douches. Lotion. 1 glass of lemon juice 1 glass of distilled water. Essence of rose 5 drops PAPERS, PAPER LEAVES.-These are prepared in many ways; they constitute: (1) perfumed papers, which are placed among note paper, or used instead of sachets; (2) rice powders in books; (3) soap in leaves; (4) anti- septic papers; (5) deodorizing papers. All these prepa- rations are made by coating or saturating the papers with the perfumes either by vaporization or immersion. PASTES.-Pastes, particularly almond paste, are used more for the hands than for the face. Cosmetic paste. Starch 30 grammes Vaseline 60 - Cocoa butter 15 - Oxide of zinc 5 - White wax 1 - Color and perfume. (Cavalhies). 208 COSMETIC GUIDE Medicinal paste. Boletum Rubrum 0.34 grammes Glycerine , 20 drops Sol. eosin 7 - Zinc paste 40 grammes For persons with irritable skins, can be used as a rouge. PERFUMES.-Perfumes are made from animal, vege- table or mineral extracts. Animal perfumes.-These are taken from the secre- tions of the glands of certain animals, as: amber, castor, civet, musk. Vegetable perfumes, called also essences or natural perfumes. They are divided into essential oils or es- sences, resins and balsams. They are extracted by ex- pression, distillation, etc., from most of the aromatic plants. Synthetic perfumes.-They are of chemical origin. The industry in this variety of perfumes has assumed considerable importance. The mixing of the perfumes from these three sources and the varieties thus obtained are so large that they cannot be enumerated here. They are of infinite variety according to the inventiveness of the perfumer and the imagination of those who use them. They come in the form of extracts, spirits, powders, sachets, etc. Perfumes have a great influence upon the organism. They may cause headache and dizziness. Strong per- fumes should never be abused; but if used moderately they are without danger. Never put upon throat or breast a perfume having for its base lavender, lemon, benzoin, violet or rose. Dis- trust all exceedingly penetrating perfumes as tuberose, lily, jasmine, etc. PERSPIRATION 209 Sensitive and nervous persons should never use musk, nor should apathetic persons use benzoin. Verbena, on the contrary, is good for everyone. For persons of a lymphatic nature, the use of sachets of lavender, mint, thyme, etc., is much to be commended. Here follow two receipts of harmless and delightful per- fumes : Take equal quantities of alcoholized extracts of rose and tuberose; mix in the proportion of half a pint of each. Add a wineglass each of extract of vanilla and of extract of tolu. Then add 8 drops of Neroli (extract of orange blossoms) and 4 drops of the extract of almonds. The perfume will be as penetrating and agreeable as the flower itself. Woodbine perfume. Verbena perfume. Into half a pint of pure alcohol, put a quarter of a pint of the essence of rose, then about 100 grammes of the extract of orange blossoms and the same quantity of tuberose, rather less than mere of each extract. To this mixture add 28 grammes of the essence of lemon, 14 grammes of the essence of orange bark and 2 grammes of the essence of verbena. PERSPIRATION. See also Excessive Perspiration and Hyperhidrosis).-The normal secretion of the sweat glands is salutary and necessary for the well being of the human species. It cools the body and regulates the temperature of the same. Certain nerves and centres control the production of perspiration. When these are out of order, great annoyance is caused and a pathological condition obtained. The hands are always moist; objects are soiled by their touch and unpleasant feelings are caused even when shaking the hands of friends. 210 COSMETIC GUIDE When the skin on the feet is macerated by the over- production of perspiratory fluid, fungoid and bacterial growth develop in consequence. This is the cause of ill-smelling feet. The Axilla may be similarly affected and even the loins are often affected by this condition. However, we have at our command excellent remedies. I will mention a few of the best. For the mildest forms washing the part three times daily with cold water, eventually also with Castile soap, and moistening with any of the following mixtures will generally be found satisfactory: Powdered boracic acid from 2 to 5 grammes Diluted alcohol, add 100 - Thymol 1 gramme Tannic acid 5 - Spirit of camphor, add 100 - These applications should be allowed to dry in the air and at night powder parts with Aluminum 3 grammes Talcum 17 - or Salicylic acid 5 grammes Boracic acid 10 - Tartaric acid 10 - Oxide of zinc 40 - Talcum 40 - Powders like the above are strewn into stockings and gloves. They are applied to the arm pits by means of thin layers of absorbent cotton and can be used on any other part of the body similarly affected. When sores, excoriations and breaks in the skin have occurred the physician should be consulted. POWDERS 211 PERSPIRATION OF AXILLA AND FEET.-See Excessive perspiration. PIGMENTATIONS.-See Facial Blemishes. PITYRIASIS.-See Scales. POWDERS.-In Part I, Hygiene of the Face, I have shown the evils of powders; they never should be used on dry skins, without first applying a coating of cream. The best powder is made of rice flour, pulver- ized and perfumed. Powders ought to fullfil many requirements in their composition. The following is a sample of what the component parts of rice powder should be: Powder of rice flour. Powder of rice flour... 500 grammes as base Subnitrate of bismuth.. 50 - as absorbent Hydrate magnesia .... 50 -• to give lightness Red gum lac 50 - to color Essence of rose 2 - to perfume Talcum 50 - to make it adhere Venetian talcum 2 parts Rice flour 2 - White zinc 1 - Perfume, Q. S. (Monin). Sarah Bernhardt powder. Body of perfumed adherent powders. Kaolin, very white and extra pure.... 250 grammes Oxide of zinc (light) 400 - Starch of rice or corn 200 - Carbonate of magnesia 150 - Coumarine, pulverized 0.50 - Artificial musk, pulverized 0.50 - 212 COSMETIC GUIDE (1) Caseine powdered to an extreme degree, mixed with min- eral powders (talcum, fuller's earth); (2) carbonated chalk, mixed with vegetable powder (powdered rice, starch). Bases of powders. Formulas for powders. Talcum 20 grammes Oxide of zinc 10 - Pulverized starch 10 - Perfumed and colored ad libitum. Powdered iris 10 grammes Powdered rice 30 - Essence of violet 5 drops Subnitrate of bismuth 20 grammes Oxide of zinc 20 - Starch 20 grammes Venitian talcum 10 - Subnitrate of bismuth 5 - Essence of violets 5 drops REDNESS. (See Congestion, Erythema, Frostbites, Acne).-Redness of the face is caused by many things: besides the passing redness caused by the emotions of those having a sensitive nervous system, circulatory troubles, the digestion, cold and heat frequently give rise to reflex redness. The habitual color of the skin depends upon its structure and the complexion. Preventive means.-Against excess of color: no over- eating; hot foot baths, woolen stockings, corsets worn loose, hot lotions either of pure water, or with the addi- tion of some drops of benzoin. REDNESS 213 Bathe the face in warm water and touch spots with a brush dipped in: Precipitate of sulphur 3 grammes Glycerine 10 - Spirits of camphor 10 - Water 15 - Powder with : At the first appearance of erythema. Salicylate of bismuth 5 grammes Resorcin .. 0.50 - Prepared chalk 20 - Starch 100 - Bathe with: Ether (sulphuric) 15 grammes Tincture of quillaya 25 - Essence of lemon 40 - Rose water 45 - Nut oil 10 drops Apply every evening some astringent cream and cover with this powder: Hydrate of magnesia 10 grammes Camphorated chalk .. 12 - Resorcin 1 - Starch 100 - Twice a week use the following: Chlorhydrate of adrenaline 1 to 1000.... 2 grammes Oxide of zinc 2 - Talcum 2 - Lanolin 8 - Vaseline 8 - 214 COSMETIC GUIDE Apply at night and keep on one hour: Naphthol 10 grammes Oxide of zinc 12 - Powdered starch 12 - Yellow vaseline 35 - Continue for several days in succession. In the morning apply a pure lotion of roses. To avoid the redness caused by cold, cover the face with cold cream, vaseline or lanolin, then powder with starch. A veil should be worn. When returning indoors, bathe face with tannin lotion, spirits of camphor, etc. Cover the face with yolk of a fresh egg; let it get dry; keep on for three hours; wipe off. Fresh cream; also bathing with sulphurous waters. Ointment. White precipitate 0.50 grammes Boracic acid 1.50 - Vaseline 15 Boracic acid 1.50 -• RESINS AND BALSAMS.-Resins and balsams, for- merly very much used, have again come into use. Resins are the products of the oxygenation of natural balsams, the natural sap of certain vegetations which contain besides benzoin and cinnamon acids, essential oils from which perfumes are extracted. Resins and balsams have tonic properties, contracting the tissues, and are antiseptic as well. They enter into the composition of plasters, white emulsions, lotions and toilet vinegars. White emulsions. Tincture of benzoin 10 grammes Rose water 100 - ROSACEA 215 Sweet almonds 30 grammes Bitter almonds 10 - White honey 5 - Balm of Peru 5 - Tincture of balm of tolu 3 grammes Rose water 300 - (Hirzel). ROSACEA (See Acne, Congestion, Redness)-Rosacea is a permanent congestive condition of the face which generally comes with age. Certain skins, either too dry or too oily are predisposed to it. Rich living, ner- vous excitement, sexual disorders, irregular menstrua- tion, will likely bring it on. The treatment should be same as for congestion of the face. Acne, seborrhoea, scurvy, if present, should be actively treated. Scarification and electrolysis are often necessary to cause the disappearance of the little blood vessels, which look like varices upon the epidermis. Hot sprays are very useful, but very hot water must be used for them. Bran water, boracic acid solutions are also good. Also applications every evening of: Decoction of juniper wood 25 grammes Acidi boracici 30 - Sulfuris sublimati 10 - Aluminis 3 - Camphor 1 - Glycerine 10 - Alcohol 90% 10 - Leave on three hours. Lotions. 216 COSMETIC GUIDE RUGOSITY OF THE SKIN.-See Dryness of the skin. After washing face, rub with one of the following lotions: Oil of sweet almonds 200 grammes Neutral glycerine 10 - Tincture of benzoin 5 - Orange flower water 1000 grammes Neutral glycerine 50 - Borate of soda 10 - Apply three times a day, then powder. (Monin). LOTIONS. SCALES.-The skin peels in places. Scales, which is about the same thing as dry seborrhoea or pityriasis is frequent among blondes and children. This condition is due to irritating soaps or to too frequent use of soap; microbes may also be the cause. It always indicates that the glands do not perform their functions prop- erly. Wash the skin with water to which salt is added in the proportion of 8 parts to 1,000 of water; or water with alkalines, boracic acid, alum ; use soaps containing sali- cylic acid, resorcin, oil of cade, tar; use astringent lotions, lotions with lemon; also ointments containing sulphur, salicylic acid, iodine, tar, etc. Often all use of water on the face should be stopped, and vaseline or cream employed instead for cleansing it. Antiseptic lotion. Rose water 1000 grammes Neutral glycerine 50 - Borate of soda 10 - SCALES 217 Astringent lotion. Hot water 200 centimeter cubes Tincture of benzoin .. 10 drops Glycerine 60 grammes Borax 10 - Oil of birch 6 drops Essence of santal 6 - Ointment. Ointments for removal of scales. Vaseline 20 grammes Resorcin 0.30 - Tincture of benzoin 12 drops Oil of sweet almonds 20 grammes Tincture of iodine 5 to 10 drops White precipitate 2 grammes Fresh lard 40 - Tannic acid 2 grammes Calomel 1 - Vaseline 1 - Lanolin 10 - Vaseline . 20 grammes Sulphur 4 - Salicylic acid 2 - Here follow a few prescriptions for rebellious cases. After the above lotions have been used, apply in the evening: Paste for removing scales. Carbonate of soda 5 grammes Green soap 10 - This is very irritant. 218 COSMETIC GUIDE Sulphur salves. Vaseline 10 grammes Lanolin 10 - Oxide of zinc 5 - Precipitate of sulphur 2 - Salicylic acid 2 grammes Camphor 0.50 - Sulphur precipitate 3 - Vaseline 30 - Sulphur precipitate 4 grammes Oil of cade 5 - Vaseline 10 - Lanolin 10 - SEBORRHOEA, OILY OR GREASY.-Greasy ap- pearance, shining face. This seborrhoea is found alone or accompanied by acne and blackheads, while dry sebor- hoea is often found with acne, rosacea and granular acne. The seat'of greasy seborrhoea is always on the back, the sides of the nostrils, the cheek bones and the fore- head, sometimes too on the chin. If it is very pro- nounced, it causes little crusts to form and sometimes even scales: this is called crusty seborrhoea. The treatment for this affection is the same as for greasy skin. The general condition must be treated: alcoholic lotions, astringents and above all alkalines must be used, and be followed by powdering. Dry seborrhoea must not be confounded with dryness of the skin. Dry seborrhoea which is also known as pityriasis is a scaly disease oftenest found among blond people and children. It is due to irritation by soaps or SOAPS 219 is of microbic origin. It indicates a bad condition of the glands. See Scales. SOAPS.-The most neutral of all soaps is marbleized Castile soap; white soap is the best for toilet use. With the soaps are also used oil of sweet almonds (for scal- ing), lime juice (for erythema), astringent extracts per- fumed. White suet soap 1 kilo White sand 2 - Thyme 20 grammes Rosemary 20 - Lavender 20 - Soap for the body. Pure glycerine Soap of white suet, Q. S. to saturate. Perfume according to taste. Glycerine soap. It would be of great interest to know exactly what enters into the composition of the soaps we use. Their action upon the skin is more or less irritant according to the alkaline base of which they are composed (pot- ash, soda, chalk), or according to their other contents: oily excipients, (vegetable, animal or mineral oils) ; aux- iliaries (resins, animal, vegetable or mineral products) ; or perfumes. If a soap causes redness or peeling of the skin, there is a good reason for suspecting and reject- ing it. Light yellow honey 300 grammes White castile soap 300 - Benzoin 70 - Storax 30 - (Martay). Household toilet soap. 220 COSMETIC GUIDE White castile soap 500 grammes Spermaceti 80 - Light yellow honey , 80 - Lemon juice . 3 lemons Essence of rosemary 30 drops Essence of lemon 30 - Preparation.-Grate the soap, mix in a marble mortar, dis- solve in a water bath and pour it into molds. Paste of bitter almonds 60 grammes Saturated tincture benzoin 40 - Pulverised camphor 8 - White castile soap 500 (Monin). Camphorated soap. Liquid soap. Glycerine 400 grammes Green soap 600 - Dissolve by heat; after cooling add : Alcohol 50 grammes Essence of mint 1 - Essence of cinnamon 1 - Castile soap may take the place of the green soap. Pure soap 1000 grammes Glycerine 1000 - Then add the perfume and color you may prefer. For instance: Essence of lemon 10 grammes Essence of bergamote 10 - Carmine (or eosin) 10 The coloring is added when the soap is taken from the fire. The perfume is added when pouring the soap in the molds or receptacles to cool off. SPRAYS 221 SPRAYS.-(See Cosmetics and Masks). Sprays of vapor are an excellent means for cleansing the face and allaying congestions. The sprays made with a little hand spray only serve to spread an agreeable and re- freshing fluid on the face, while vapor sprays are cos- metical and curative. These sprayings are done with a special apparatus. The water in the little round boiler A, is brought to the boiling point, while the spraying A, boiler; B, lamp; C, shade to direct the spray; D, open- ing where the face is placed. Fig. 50.-Pulverization.-System Bressy. liquid is in the glass B, into which is plunged the rubber tube D. Pure boiled water is used for spraying, with the ad- dition of emollient waters and various mixtures. When there is a good cloud of vapor the face is placed in front of the sprayer at a distance of from 8 to 12 inches. It is necessary to wait till there is no 222 COSMETIC GUIDE longer a jet of water issuing before approaching. The throat and chest must be protected with an oilcloth apron, and sometimes the eyes covered with a bandage or spectacles. Fig. 51.-Steam pulverization. A, boiler containing water which is heated to boiling point by alcohol lamp B; C, small handle used to direct the vapor which escapes in jets at T; D, two rubber tubes plunging in glass B which contains the liquid to be used in sprays or as vapor sprays; E shows how the jet of vapor should be before the face is placed in front of the apparatus in order to avoid burns that would be the result of a sudden vapor stream. The sprayings are given once or twice a day and last from fifteen to twenty minutes. They have a very good effect after the masks have been used or after massage (particularly for acne). STINGS AND BITES 223 STINGS AND BITES.-Their treatment varies with their nature, extent and seat. It is in the realm of the physician's work. Immediate bathing with spirits of camphor, or per- oxide of hydrogen; touching with tincture of iodine (except when in the vicinity of the eye). One of the best remedies as yet little used in this country is the Burow Solution so much employed in Germany, Austria and Russia. It is readily made by mixing one part of the "Liquor Aluminis Acetici" with nine parts of water, and may be applied on strips of gauze or lint. It reduces the swelling of bites almost immediately and subdues all itching and burning. The effects of mosquito bites are quickly overcome by its use and no traces are left. SUNBURN.-Sunburn is a browning- of the face due to the action of the sun's rays or of the air. It may be modified or made to disappear altogether by the use of solutions of ammonia chlorhydrate, peroxide of hydro- gen or bichloride of mercury. Solutions. White precipitate 2.5 grammes Bismuth sublimate 2.5 - Lanolin 40 - Tincture benzoin 1.15 grammes Bichloride of mercury 0.30 - Emulsion amygdalin 300 - Sulphur precipitate 15 grammes Camphor 1 - Gum arabic 5 - Aqua calcis 100 - Rose water 100 - 224 COSMETIC GUIDE SUPERFLUOUS HAIR, HAIRINESS.-Hypertri- chosis is seldom found anywhere on women except on legs, between breasts and on the face. It is acquired or hereditary. The superfluous hair is most objectionable upon the face of women, but one may get rid of this baneful condition by obeying the following instructions: Those who can not have the assistance of an expert should rely entirely upon the use of Peroxide of Hydro- gen, which should be applied several times daily upon the hairy portions of the face or body. The hair turns blond and after a few days breaks off. To avoid irritat- ing the skin too much, cold cream should be rubbed in. If the hair is growing between the breasts and inter- feres with the wearing of decollete dress, it is best to apply for 3 or 4 days the following mixture : Tincture of iodin 3 grammes Oil of therebinth 6 Castor oil 8 - Alcohol 48 - Coilodium 100 - This applied for 3 or 4 successive days, will form a crust which on being removed will be found to have everyone of the objectionable hairs attached to it, leav- ing the skin entirely free of hair. Hair on the face, upper lip, under the chin and on the cheeks, as mentioned above, are best treated by Hydro- gen Peroxide, if there are not too many. Hair in large numbers can be removed most readily by one of the well- known depilatories (hair removing powders). I give a few which are especially recommended by Prof. Max Joseph, of Berlin, in his latest work on Kosmetik, 1912, Leipzig, Veit and Compagnie. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR 225 Oxide of zinc Barii sulphurat. rec. parat equal parts or Sulphate of strontium 8 grammes Oxide of zinc 12 - Starch 12 - These powders, mixed with hot water, are made into a paste which is applied upon the part affected in a layer the thickness of blotting paper, left on from 1 to 5 min- utes, or, if the skin bears it well, from 10 to 15 minutes, and removed with oil. Cleanse the skin afterwards with hot water and rub cold cream into it. No irritation should be noticed after applying these powders and the frequency of using them depends upon the irritability of the skin. In the same manner we use the following depilatories which should be freshly prepared for each occasion: Natrii sulf-hydrati 3 grammes Quick lime 10 - Starch 10 - Make a paste; apply and remove after 3 or 4 minutes. Calc. hydr. sulfur, in aqua 20 grammes Essence of lemon 10 - Glycerine ointment 10 - Starch 10 - Put this on the skin in a layer of 1 to 2 millimeters thickness, and rub off after 10 to 30 minutes. Auripigmenti 1 gramme Amyli 10 - Calc, viv 16 - Water, Q. S. to make a paste. Remove after a few minutes. 226 COSMETIC GUIDE Rusma Turcorum (Turkish Powder). Auripigmenti 1 to 2 grammes Calc. viv. pulv 8 - Remove from face after a few moments. Ladies who are living where there are experts, derma- tologists and physicians who use electricity in their prac- tice, should without hesitation apply to them for relief, and if possible have their superfluous hair removed by the Electrolytic process (Removal of superfluous hair by the Galvanic needle). This is done by applying a fine needle connected with a battery of 32 Elements Rheostat Galvanometer. The negative electrode carries the needle holder which is provided with a button to break the current. The needle slides into the hair follicle, when guided by an experienced hand, without causing any discomfort, and then the current is turned on (2-3 milliampere is suf- ficient according to the sensibility of the patient). After a few seconds a tiny vesicle appears at the mouth of the follicle, which is the signal for withdrawing the needle. The removal of the hair is painless when the bulb has been well hit; otherwise the hair resists and some pain is felt at its removal. This method is slow and tiresome for the patient who has some thousands of hairs to be removed. Hence Prof. Kromayer's multiple electric needle is a great step forward. This method, the Multiple Elec- trolysis, allows the electricity to be felt only at the end of the needle. These five insulated needles are attached to copper wires and are each inserted into a follicle by the operator, enabling him to remove five hairs at one time, instead of one. They are of the finest make and THIN FACE 227 smallest diameter and cause no pain when properly in- serted into the follicles. To show the superiority of the epilation after Kro- mayer's method over the old style method with the single needle, I wish to state that 150 to 200 hairs can be com- fortably removed in a two hour session with the multiple Kromayer needles, which is at least 3 times as many as can be removed by the single needle. The returning hair will be found to be different from the hair which it replaces. The new growth is much thinner, frailer, and after each removal a still thinner one takes its place, and the latter one can be removed by the pincers without the least pain. While by the single needle process 50 per cent, of the removed hairs return and have to be removed over again, only 20 to 30 per cent, reappear after the Kromayer process of epilation. However, the treatment is expen- sive and has to be continued for some years to make absolutely sure of no further return of the objectionable hair. THIN FACE.-Overfeeding (eating little and often), rest in bed, stimulating frictions, well chosen toilet waters (vinegars), white emulsions. A thin face will quickly show wrinkles and folds; sprays should therefore be used from five to ten min- utes every day with stimulating liquids. Infusion of the large comfrey 2 parts Neutral glycerine 1 part Afterwards apply: Castor oil 30 grammes White wax 5 - Parafine 5 -- Perfume, ad libitum, 228 COSMETIC GUIDE TOILET OF THE FACE.-Two questions arise when dealing with the toilet of the face: what water to use and which soap. Water. Should water be used for the face? Ought it to be used pure or with additions? Hot, lukewarm or cold? If it is true that water suits every skin, there are certainly examples (like Adeline Patti) of persons that never used water and had irreproachable complexions. Gently touching or tapping the face with water is preferable to great ablutions with rubbing. A piece of absorbent cotton is to be preferred to a towel or a sponge, for delicate skins. As a general rule, lukewarm water is best suited to infants, cold water in youth and hot when older Cold or lukewarm water is most suitable for blondes and red-haired people with dry skins; hot water for brunettes and those with oily skins. If the water is impure, it should be boiled, and if it contains too much chalk, some drops of benzoin, am- monia or Eau de Cologne should be added. When the skin is red, dry, scaly, covered with spots 01 any other manifestations of skin trouble, add to the water those ingredients which are mentioned under their respective headings for such cases. The question of soap.-Soap is to be used in every case where the skin is oily, exposed to dust (in summer in the life out of doors, in winter in the house). Soap is injurious, however, for dry, scaly, blotched, congested skins. Soap is not indispensable for babies; it is only neces- sary for children and persons with greasy skins. For persons with dry, irritable skin, it should be replaced TOILET OF THE FACE 229 by vaseline, lanolin, almond paste and from time to time by lemon juice, milk, cucumber juice, or the yolk of an egg. How often a day should the face be washed.-The hygiene of the face requires it should be washed morn- ing and night. The morning washing should be done with lukewarm or cold water, using as little soap as possible, drying it and, if the skin is dry, passing lightly over it some cream or vaseline; if oily, an alkaline mixture, containing glycerine or a little alcohol. After this, people with greasy skins should use powder which must not remain on, but be wiped off at once. Evening washing should be done with hot water and soap according to conditions. This cleansing should be done thoroughly in order to remove the dust and grime of the day. If the skin is dry, rub with a piece of absorbent cotton dipped in some greasy substance, and afterwards wipe with lukewarm or fresh water to which has been added some drops of toilet vinegar. Nothing more should be used, unless the skin is very dry; in this case a little vaseline or lanolin may be applied. If the skin is greasy wash with hot water and soap; rub afterwards with a cotton tampon dipped into some alcoholic solution, or an alkaline, or some distilled aro- matic water (rose water, orange flower water), or a mixture like the following: Orange flower water 950 grammes Borate of soda 10 - Pure glycerine 50 - Then dry, and use no powder unless skin is oily. 230 COSMETIC GUIDE A few more remarks and advices.-As alcohol, ether, glycerine and acetic acid are very much used in toilet waters, lotions and vinegars, it is well to know their action and uses. Alcohol is generally diluted when used in cosmetics. It is antiseptic, disinfecting and stimulating. It enters into most toilet waters, particularly Cologne water. When undiluted it is irritating to the skin. Ether is employed in the form of sulphuric ether, sel- dom alone. It mixes with water and alcohol, it dis- solves camphor, sulphur, iodine, iodoform, bichloride of mercury, fats and oils. It renders the skin insensible and reddens it at the same time, helping to dissolve the epidermal debris, scales and fat. The mixture of equal parts of ether and alcohol constitute the Liqueur d'Hoff- man employed as a vehicle for lotions and cosmetics. It is also an excitant for the skin, making it peel, dis- sclving the grease, but after continued use it causes ir- ritation. Glycerine dissolves in water and alcohol, but is in- soluble in ether, spirits of turpentine, chloroform and fats. Glycerine is chemically an alcohol, resembling it in its irritant action upon the skin; which is the reason why many persons cannot use pure glycerine, while mixed with rosewater, distilled waters, starch (glyceroles of starch) it can be well borne and serves for incorporating many substances useful for the toilet of the face. Acetic acid which is the base of most toilet vinegars, is very irritating. It mixes with both alcohol and water. It helps to dissolve the debris of the skin but causes burning and congestion. Therefore, it is often replaced by lemon juice. TOILET OF THE FACE 231 Vaselines.-Cheeseborough's white neutral vaseline is often employed for cleansing the skin. It has been ac- cused of promoting the growth of hair upon the face and causing brown pigmentations, particularly with blond people, but this is a statement which so far has not been verified. Cleaning the skin.-For dry skins (particularly blondes) : a piece of soft linen dipped into neutral white vaseline into which has been poured a few drops of Cologne water, is a most agreeable way of cleansing the skin, which should be gently rubbed in one direction only. When the skin is rough and scaly a few drops of Liqueur d'Hoffman should be better than the Cologne water; if there is any congestion, distilled water, or some aromatic vinegar will best serve the purpose. After the cleansing, use fatty creams. For oily skins.-The same mode of cleansing, but with very little vaseline, but more Cologne water; or alcoholic lotions, benzoin lotions or lotions of borate of soda. Dry- ing the face to be followed by dry creams and powder. When the skin is red, pustulous and oily: (1) wash at night with lukewarm water; (2) cover face with a mix- ture of the white of an egg and juice of a fresh lemon. (3) Next morning wash with hot water (500 grammes), and bicarbonate of soda (one tablespoonful). Variation in the cares of the face. The care of the face should vary according to 1. The nature of the complexion, whether blond, chestnut or brunette. 2. The quality of the skin: normal, dry, oily. 3. The presence of eruptions, manifestations on the skin of redness, erythema, spots, sunburn, pustules. 232 COSMETIC GUIDE 4. Scaly skin, peeling easily. 5. The influence of oily substances on the skin, what effect they produce; are they well borne? 6. In what form are they used: salves, creams, glyceroles. 7. Action of water: cold, hot, lukewarm. 8. Action of soap. 9. Action of toilet waters: vinegars, toilet milks, glycerines. 10. Action of powders. 11. Condition of functions: gastro-intestinal, he- patic, genito-urinary; insist upon regularity of menses and bowels. 12. Diet: animal, vegetable or mixed. 13. Influence of emotions and feelings upon the face. 14. Influence of the nervous system: impressionable, nervous. 15. Influence of perfumes: which ones are preferred. 16. Take into consideration age, sex, mode of life. TOILET WATERS.-In the first part of this book, Hygiene of the face, the composition of the principal toilet waters has been explained. Almost all of them contain alcohol, distilled waters and perfumes. They are used pure as lotions and for frictions, or in small quantity added to the water for washing. Cologne waters are the best type of toilet waters. The following are some prescriptions for a few of them: For softening the skin. Rose water 60 grammes Cherry laurel water 10 - Distilled water .... 50 - Glycerine (neutral) 30 - Biborate of soda 5 - Vanilhne 0.05 - TOILET WATER 233 For blondes with dry skin. Cherry laurel water 20 grammes Milk of almonds 300 - For face with acne pustules. Salicylic acid 1 gramme Alcohol, 90% 5 - Borate of soda 4 - Distilled water 200 - For a sensitive scaly skin. Milk of almonds 150 grammes Rose water 150 - Tincture of soap 20 grammes Spirits of lavender 10 - Alcohol, 90% 40 - Rose water, Q. S. for 300 - Perfume as desired. To cleanse the face. Antiseptic toilet water. Rose water 100 grammes Boracic acid 1 - Essence of roses 5 drops For pimples and blackheads Biborate of soda 10 grammes Neutral glycerine 80 - Orange flower water 920 - For dry, peeling skin, with congestion and pustules. Bisulphate of potassium 2 grammes Carbonate of potassium 1 - Tincture of benzoin 1 - Spirits of lavender 20 drops Cherry laurel water 20 grammes Distilled water Q. S. for 300 - 234 COSMETIC GUIDE Antiseptic friction. Borate of soda 5 grammes Phenic acid, pure 0.20 - Cherry laurel water 5 - Glycerine 15 - For congested face, acne rosacea, red blotches. Tincture of benzoin 5 grammes Tincture of ratanhia 5 - Tincture of witch hazel 5 - Ergotin 15 Spirits of lavender 15 - Spirits of rosemary 15 - Spirits of camphor, Q. S. for 125 - For oily skin with congestion, acne and papular eruption (miliary). Tincture of benzoin 2 grammes Borate of soda 8 - Tincture of quillaya 20 drops Rose water 300 grammes Mix: A.-Spirits of lavender 10 grammes Spirits of rosemary 10 - Tincture nux vomica 2 - Alcoholic extract of lemon zest 20 - Astringent lotion for wrinkles. Dissolve separately: B.-Extract of ratanhia 1 gramme Borate of soda 10 - Rose water 150 - Filter through paper, then add B. to A, so as to obtain 200 grammes of liquid. TOILET WATER 235 When the skin is covered with red blotches, brown spots, or by marks of pregnancy, it is advisable to use the following: To clear the complexion. Milk of almonds 50 grammes Bichloride of mercury 0.50 - To get rid of freckles. Sulphur of zinc 2 grammes Acetate of lead 2 - Bichloride of mercury 1 - Distilled water 250 - Alcohol at 90% 500 - Use this either full strength, or diluted one half with warm distilled water, in applications of from one to three hours according to the tolerance of the skin. For sunburn. Bichloride of mercury 0.70 grammes White of one egg Juice of one lemon White sugar 10 - Distilled water 100 - Use in same manner as preceding recipe. It must be borne in mind that these three mixtures are poisonous and irritating, and that it is necessary to correct their action by the application of soothing creams at the same time. Neutral glycerine 80 grammes Rose water 20 - Cherry laurel water 210 - Toilet water for dry skins. 236 COSMETIC GUIDE THICKENING OF SKIN.-For this trouble use massage; friction with fatty substances; creams con- taining glycerine and lanolin. Lotion for thickened skin. Rose water 250 cubic centimeters Glycerine 30 - - Chlorate of potash 1 - - VINEGARS.-Vinegars in cosmetics are preparations with a foundation of wine vinegar or acetic acid vinegar. They are irritants, caustics and antiseptic. They quicken the circulation and make the desquamation dis- appear. Hence, they are indicated when the skin peels (dry seborrhoea). Mixed with spirits and essences, their antiseptic and exciting action is increased (in congestion, pustular acne and acne rosacea) ; when combined with alcohol they dis- solve fats (action upon greasy skin and seborrhoea oleosa). Vinegars must be diluted with water before using on account of their caustic properties. They do not suit fine, sensitive skins. In general but a few drops are used, a teaspoonful in about one and half to two pints of water for the toilet. Aromatic vinegar. Tincture of benzoin 10 grammes Acetic acid crystallized 50 - Cologne water 940 - (Cavalhies) Rose water 50 grammes Alcoholic extract of lavender 100 - Vinegar 150 - Lavender vinegar. WARTS 237 Salicylic acid 10 grammes Crystallized acetic acid 100 - Spirits of eucalyptus . 5 - Cologne water 885 - (Pennes) Antiseptic vinegar. According to experience, aromatic vinegars should not be used with soap. This would cause a formation of acid fat, very irritating for the skin, giving rise to burning and peeling. After washing with soap it is better to rinse well with lukewarm or hot water, and then to put a few drops of vinegar into scarcely warm water, or into cool or cold water for bathing the face. WARTS.-Warts on the face are generally either flat, very numerous, little noticeable, generally found among children, or brown spots, more or less prominent, usually found among old people. Their treatment is medical. After the fortieth year some warts may become epitheli- omata or skin cancers, and they should never be irritated by careless treatment. (Fig. 52.) If irritated they ulcerate and spread. It is advisable to consult a surgeon as to their treatment. Apply at night the following paste: Flowers of sulphur 20 grammes Glycerine 50 - Acetic acid 10 - Besides warts, certain skins are subject to pro- tuberances called "beauty spots" or moles, which can- not be treated cosmetically. They require surgical and medical measures combined, and much time and care. See Moles, COSMETIC GUIDE 238 Fig. 52.-Warts and senile spots. WRINKLES.-Wrinkles that are due to age and com- ing after the fortieth year, are usually incurable; if they are concealed by make up, the means to do this must be used indefinitely; this will injure the skin and increase the wrinkles. Accidental wrinkles are due: 1. To the quality of the skin, its thinness and dry- ness. 2. To leanness, to variations of temperature; WRINKLES 239 3. To emotions, sorrows and passions. Wrinkles are most frequently found among the nervous. Wrinkles may be delayed by preventive means; they may be attenuated, but seldom can be cured by corrective treatment. Preventive cares.-The leanness and dryness of the skin must be overcome. Lukewarm water should be used at night, cold water in the morning. After the evening toilet, spraying with a stimulating water should follow, also compresses of the same kind, or creams for massaging with friction, but only if the other means are not effective. Mornings, use alcohol or vinegar lotions containing alum, borax or tannin; afterwards, if the skin is dry, a little cream may be used. Lola Montez used to advise cold ablutions, followed by prolonged friction with a dry towel. As a compress. Rose water 200 grammes Thick milk of almonds 50 - Sulphate of aluminium 4 - or Sulphate of aluminium 4 grammes Cherry laurel water 10 - Distilled rose water 140 - Neutral glycerine 50 - Extract of violet 5 drops or Water 1000 grammes Borax 25 - Spirits of wine 130 - 240 COSMETIC GUIDE For spraying. Orange flower water 20 grammse Tincture of quillaya 20 - Salicylic vinegar 20 - A dessertspoonful in a glass of boiled water. For thin people, sprays, and afterwards ointments as follows: Infusion of the large comfrey 100 grammes Glycerine 100 - For spraying. Ointment. Castor oil 30 grammes White wax 5 - Paraffin 5 - Spermaceti 5 - Salicylic acid 2 -• Essence of bitter almonds 15 drops Corrective treatment.-There does not exist any treatment for the cure of wrinkles; they may be hidden but not effaced. Sprays, lotions, massage and electricity are among the best corrective means for wrinkles. Making up increases them; enameling is without sense and is also dangerous. Treatment. Prolonged ablutions with cold water in the morning; afterwards the following cream to be used: Clear transparent honey 100 grammes Juice of one lemon WRINKLES 241 Keep this on for fifteen minutes, afterwards wash off with cold water. (To be kept up for fifteen days). Use lemon juice as an ointment. No glycerine, which is very drying. Massage night and morning, followed by applications for half an hour of compresses of very hot water, either pure or with the addition of: 2 to 10 p. 100 of borax, alum, tannin, or formol of commerce (to be used with prudence). The compresses must be wrung out care- fully. Bandages made of new material, dipped in: Alcohol 90% 15 grammes White of egg 15 - Apply at night before retiring. (Debay). Fresh butter mixed with rose water has been much lauded. Anti-wrinkle lotion. Rose water 200 grammes Thick milk of almonds 50 - Sulphate of aluminium 4 - (Monin). Lotion for greasy skin. Aromatic vinegar 90 grammes Tincture of benzoin 60 - Neutral glycerine 15 - Resorcin 3 - Salicylic acid 2 - Essence of verbena.... 1 - One teaspoonful in half a glass of water, as a hot spray ten minutes every morning. 242 COSMETIC GUIDE To be applied without previous massage. Ointments and creams. For flaccidity of skin. Tonic ointment. Precipitate of sulphur 3 grammes Pulverized quinquina . 2 - Tannin 1 - Glycerine 5 - Lanolin 10 - Oil of vaseline, Q. S. or White wax 4 grammes Spermaceti 4 - White vaseline 15 - Tincture balsam of Peru 4 - Use at night, or Sulphate of aluminum 1 gramme Sulphate of zinc 1 - Cerate 15 - For greasy skin. Borate of soda 1 gramme Glycerine 5 - Sulphate of aluminum 2 - Lanolin 20 - For crows-feet. Oleic acid 15 grammes Vaseline 15 - Borate of soda •. 0.50 - Oxide of zinc 1 - Tincture of benzoin 15 drops WRINKLES 243 or Iodide of potassium or sodium 1 gramme Sulphate of zinc 1 - Sulphate of aluminium 1 - Balsam of Peru 15 - Vaseline 15 - Lanolin 15 - Add some rose water. HAIR* Beautiful and luxurious hair being one of the most important possessions of either man or woman, it should receive the care necessary to preserve its beauty. In order to give it the proper treatment for its pres- ervation some knowledge of its nature and growth will be useful. The color of the hair depends upon the coloring matter contained in its middle layer, the degree of color being regulated by the amount of the coloring matter present. Gray hair, once regarded only as a sign of age, is now known to be due simply to the loss of this coloring matter, or pigment, or to the number of air bubbles within the hair. Worry, shock or sickness are the causes of this condition, as well as accidents or severe and long continued mental strain, or brain work. The shape of the hair differs as well as the color; it may be round, oval or flat. The flat or oval hair is the curly hair, the rounder it is the less curl will be present. As the rate of the growth of the hair depends upon general conditions it cannot be stated with certainty, but as a rule, if in a normal state, it will grow about one- third of an inch in two weeks. The longer the hair the quicker it will grow, so that on the crown and back of the head it grows quicker than on the other parts. It is a mistake to suppose that cutting the hair en- courages its growth, on the contrary it is more apt to retard it, as well as making it coarse. * For fuller instruction on this subject see the author's work "Baldness: Its Causes, Its Treatment, and Its Cure" (E. P. Dutton & Co.) 244 HAIR 245 After the hair has attained the length of about twelve inches, its rate of growth decreases by one half, scarcely any change can be noticed unless subjected to special treatment. In middle life the hair grows fastest. After a person has attained the age of thirty-five it seldom grows its full length. The care of the hair is the same for 'both sexes, but on account of the length of women's hair the technique is different, for in order to apply hygienic measures or therapeutic agents effectually the hair of a woman must be parted so that the application may be made at these partings by means of absorbent cotton wound firmly around a wooden applicator, or by the fingers. Thus the scalp which needs the treatment is reached. Many people ignore the fact that an application made only to the hair will have no effect whatever; only when the scalp is reached can there be any result. Whatever means are employed for applying liquids, pomades, mixtures, tonics, tinctures, they must be ab- solutely clean. This is why absorbent cotton on a stick is the best. Neither scalp nor hair should be moistened with cold water as it changes the color by chilling the head. In a normal condition the hair is smooth and glossy and when taken between the fingers is found to be neither greasy nor dry. When one hair is rubbed against another it produces a slight crackling sound. The ends of the hair are normally blunt. The scalp is smooth and white, neither greasy nor humid and does not soil or moisten the fingers or cotton. To the touch the scalp gives to the fingers of the examining physician the sensation of tension and resistance. It is difficult to 246 HAIR take hold of it, and is not easily separated from the underlying cranial bones. Hygiene of the scalp means the maintaining this con- dition by correct means, those which are appropriate for a too dry or too oily condition of the scalp. The scalp and the hair need to be washed whenever they are found to be dirty. This may be necessary after an extended railroad journey, or a trip in an open auto- mobile. Otherwise, about once a month will be often enough, unless there are special reasons for washing them oftener. The following is the proper method of washing a lady's head: The best soap for this purpose is the tincture of alkaline soap, or if this is not procurable, tincture of green soap may be used, hot water in great abundance and from four to six or even ten old fluffy bath towels (small size) should be at hand. A little cologne spirits or absolute alcohol and a small bottle of pure olive oil may also be provided. The towels must be heated and kept in a heated vessel until used. One tablespoonful of the liquid soap is poured into the palm of the hand and rubbed into the hair, this is followed by two tablespoonfuls of hot water to form a lather. If the amount of the lather is not sufficient to cover the entire head, another spoonful of soap must be used followed by two more of hot water. This must now be rubbed in with both hands, soap and water to- gether, until the head is completely covered with the lather. The thickness of the hair regulates the amount of liquid soap and hot water necessary. HAIR 247 When the scalp is covered with the lather it is best to cover it with a towel and leave it alone for from five to ten minutes, during which time the lather dis- solves the deposit upon the scalp and mixes with the scales and the secretions from the glands and the ac- cumulated dirt. When a slight burning or itching of the scalp makes itself felt, the time has come for the hot water to be used. This is to be done as follows: One quart of water is poured slowly over the lather covered hair and thoroughly mixed with it by rubbing it in with both hands. Another quart of water should follow to rinse the last remnants of soap lather out of the hair. A third quart insures almost perfect cleansing; more must be used if necessary. Immediately after the last rinsing the hot towels should be brought into play. One towel after the other must be used quickly and thrown away as soon as it has absorbed sufficient moisture to feel damp. The quicker the hot towels are used the sooner the hair gets perfectly dry. If a trace of moisture remains, a tablespoonful of cologne spirits (not cologne water) should be rubbed into the moist portion of hair. Its instantaneous evaporation dries the hair perfectly. Hot air blasts from an electric dryer are not good for hair or scalp, but an open grate fire or the sun will greatly facilitate the operation of drying the hair. The hair should never be dressed till it is thoroughly dry. If the soap is properly and completely washed out of the hair, ladies will experience no difficulty in arranging the hair after washing it. Should the hair fee! too dry after such a thorough cleansing, making it difficult to dress it, a teaspoonful 248 HAIR of pure olive oil poured into a saucer and applied by dipping the brush into it and then brushing the hair with it will obviate this difficulty. Ladies having white hair may put some blue into the rinsing water, as laundresses rinse white clothes to pre- vent their turning yellow. A good quality of blue must be used. If this does not succeed in preventing the hair turning yellow, a one per cent, alcoholic solution of bichloride of mercury must be used. No preparation containing resorcin should ever be used by blondes, brunettes or white haired persons as it turns such hair reddish. A perfect brushing will do as well as a washing for dry hair, while the oily hair needs less brushing and more soap and water. Crimping and curling the hair should not be too much indulged in. The simplest modes of wearing the hair are best for it. Growing girls should wear a pendant braid and women whose hair is grown and who gather it into a coil, should use large hairpins, preferably of rubber or bone, with absolutely smooth surfaces. Hair that does not curl naturally, should not be singed or squeezed between hot irons, or twisted up tightly in curl papers. There are some diseases of the scalp which produce baldness (a condition which obtains more often among men than among women) the most important of which is Seborrhoea. Seborrhoea or dandruff, of which there are two kinds, the dry and the oily, is apt to come on gradually at the age of puberty. If one notices closely the skin of the faces of young people suffering from this trouble, it will be seen that HAIR 249 they have an oily appearance. This is because of the abnormal amount of secretion oozing from the glands. Should this condition continue for some years without proper treatment it will reach the condition of dry seborrhoea. Instead of being oily, the hair will now be dry and without lustre, and some scales will be found, though not as profuse as before, the hair will be found to be thinner and continues to grow thinner. Very often this trouble is not discovered until it is too late to be much benefited by any treatment. However, we have a remedy now in the Ultra Violet rays of the Quartz lamp. This treatment in connection with some local remedies produces the best results. Alcoholic solutions also are employed successfully. The following solution applied properly, at the right time, improves the condition of both scalp and hair. Acidi Salicylici 1.0 gramme Spiritus Vini 200.0 - (Not to be used near an open flame.) When the hair is too oily it should be washed once or twice every week with luke warm water and castile soap, or still better with Hebra's Tincture of Alkaline soap, and once a month if should be given a thorough shampooing. When the hair is too dry, it needs washing only every two weeks, shampooing every month, and according to the amount of dryness, it is advised to grease it regularly with the following pomade: Sulf, precipitate 2.0 grammes Vaseline alb 30.0 - Lanolin ad 50. - Add some perfume. 250 HAIR The two following remedies should be used alternately, the first one which has been mentioned before: 1. Acidi Salicylici 1.0 gramme Spiritus 200.0 - and 2. Florum sulphuris 1.5 grammes Vasilini flavi 20.0 - M. fiat unguentum or still better, the salve should be rubbed in two days successively; the third day the solution should be ap- plied. This must be continued for six weeks. Afterwards the following tonic may be used: Acidi salicylici 1.0 gramme Resorcini 1.5 -■ Spiritus Vini 100.0 - Do not use near an open flame. Universal baldness is another disease resembling seborrhoea, but more severe. In this condition the hair loss is much greater, and all parts of the body are affected. This is explained as the result of illness, as typhoid fever, cerebro-spinal meningitis, tuberculosis, diabetes, etc., or after severe operations as for appendicitis. The result of treatment in these cases is better than might be expected. The hair usually grows again, particularly when Phototherapy is used. A plain but nourishing diet will be prescribed by the physician, as well as iron taken internally; locally a hair-tonic, as: HAIR 251 Resorcini 5.0 grammes 01. Macidis 1.0 -• 01. Ricini 2.0 - Spir 200.0 - Ag. Col 20.0 - To be rubbed in daily with a sponge. In another disease of the scalp called Premature Bald- ness, there are no premonitary signs, the hair becomes thinner and thinner till the head is entirely denuded. Females as well as males may suffer from this disease, though in the case of a woman it is seldom that she becomes completely bald, but the growth of the hair will be weakened, it will grow thin or turn gray early and fall out freely. The best advice that can be given to persons suffering from this or any other scalp disease is to seek help before the condition becomes chronic, as later, when chronic, it can be arrested only with difficulty, and often a return to normal conditions is not possible. However, now by the use of the Ultra Violet rays of the Quartz lamp, if the treatment is continued long enough, the condition is by no means as hopeless as formerly and regeneration, in most cases, is to be ex- pected. Abnormal dryness of the hair causes it to split at the ends. Washing it too often, using combs with broken teeth, too frequent use of hot curling irons, etc., also cause this condition. Also drying the hair quickly after washing, by means of a hot air apparatus. In such cases no soap must be employed when washing the hair, and pure olive oil applied by means of the brush. Good brushes and combs only should be used. For 252 HAIR babies it is better to use a soft brush, but for older per- sons a hard brush is the best, although sometimes even for an adult a soft brush is to be preferred. The shape of the brush is also important, it is ad- visable to choose one which is higher in the center than at the edge, and the bristles placed in bunches not too near together. This is because the bristles ought to penetrate to the scalp, as the scalp is kept clean by this means. The comb should have large teeth far apart. A fine comb should never be used, except for the removal of vermin. The hair should 'be brushed until there is a feeling of warmth on the head, but naturally no soreness. For finishing the dressing of the hair a softer brush may be used. Many persons think that cutting the hair stimulates its growth, but this theory has not been proved, as men whose hair is cut regularly suffer more from hair loss, as a rule, than do women. But this is accounted for, some authorities think, because of the difference in their mode of life. For children, however, it is better to allow the hair to grow long till the time when they begin to attend school, when it should preferably be cut short, because it is easier to keep it clean, as being exposed to more dust and perhaps vermin at that time it is necessary to wash it oftener. Women should avoid wearing great quantities of false hair, as the more false hair is worn just so many more hairpins are needed to hold it in place, and both increase the weight on the head and the hairpins are apt to tear the hair. Indiscriminate massaging of the hair should not be indulged in as it so often is. There are some varieties HAIR 253 of massage which persons can carry out themselves, but all massage is a delicate operation, and when not properly applied may do more harm than good. The variety most suitable for application to the scalp is the "movement massage," which is of use in atrophy of the scalp, recognized by immobility of the scalp upon the under- lying cranial bones; this is a simple moving backward and forward of the scalp over the cranium by the fingers placed firmly upon it. Cleanliness in massage is all important; the hands as well as the scalp itself should first be thoroughly cleansed by means of hot water, soap, etc. The blood supply is a very important factor in the growth of the hair. For this reason persons who have undergone operations, or from any cause whatever are below par, cannot expect their hair to grow, nor even to keep that which they may have had when they were in a normal condition of health. It is a mistaken idea to suppose that the head should be shaved after a severe illness in order to prevent the loss of the hair. Besides being esthetically very un- pleasant, especially for a woman, it renders the head more sensible to the influence of heat and moisture. It must not be overlooked that the most important factor in the preservation of the hair, is the circulation; and as this is supplied by two very small arteries only, it is necessary to encourage every means to increase the blood supply. For this reason it is to be recom- mended that hats should be light in weight and soft in texture to avoid compression of these two little arteries. This is also the reason that massage, done properly and at the right time, by stimulating the circulation, may be of use in promoting the growth of the hair. 254 HAIR In a large number of cases baldness and loss of hair arise from local causes, which by proper treatment can be retarded or modified. Hygiene of the head based upon the application of acids, alcohol, alkalines or antiseptics, is fatal to the life of the hair, and should be abandoned entirely unless used in exceptional circumstances and when under certain conditions, by advice of experts. The rational treatment really useful for the life of the hair has for its object 1. The stimulation of the circulation of the head by avoiding all constriction. 2. The maintaining the suppleness and elasticity of the scalp. Both of these can be assisted by the use of the Light rays, this treatment being effectual, which massage is not always by any means, more especially when given by persons who do not really understand it, as it so often is, or done by the subjects themselves in an Amateurish way. One means of preserving a good supply of hair by stimulating the circulation of the head is hair pulling. To carry this out effectively the patient should take a handful, or it may be, all her hair firmly in her right hand and holding it over the left arm near the elbow, which must be bent at right angles with the body, give it a vigorous jerk, strong enough for her to feel the scalp being lifted from the bony cranial surface. For men a practical method is to move the scalp mechanically by frowning in rapid succession. Also by placing the palm of the hand on top of the scalp and moving the same backward and forward and from side to side without changing the position of the hand. HAIR 255 Men's hair should never be "shingled," which means cutting the hair by a to-and-fro motion of the shears, as this tears and roughens the hair. The hair of chil- dren, whether they be boys or girls, should be kept short until the seventh or eighth year of age, as the growing hair is a drain upon the nutrition of the body, and at this time of life all the nutritive forces should be expended in the growth of muscle and bone. The hair of a girl after her eighth year should be allowed to grow, as the less the hair is cut the finer it is. The long hair of women is often found to be split at the point. This should be looked for and if found, the hair should be cut above the cleft. All ragged ends should be lopped off, and all weak hairs should be cut off near the head. Singeing the hair is a foolish proceeding. The theory that the hairs are tubes and that by singeing their ends the escape of the nutritious fluids is prevented, is all wrong, as the hair contains no fluid and gets its nutrition entirely from the papilla and hair follicle. As the hair and the general condition of the body sympathize, the latter should be maintained in good condition by a wise conformity to the laws of health. By a proper combination of the hygiene of the body with that of the hair, it is possible for even one who is predisposed to premature baldness to ward off the evil day for years. Is it not to be concluded from the foregoing that the baldness among men, so much more than among women, is caused more by their mode of life than by any other agency. Another disease of the scalp is known to the profes- sion by the name of Alopecia Areata. 256 HAIR In this condition there are bald spots, either isolated, or confluent, extensive or circumscribed, but quite dis- tinct in form and appearance. These bald spots come insidiously, without any ac- companying symptoms. The hair falls out rapidly, often in tufts and in a few days' time. The baldness may spread irregularly or in defined circles. The hair which falls will be found to have the root dried up and shriveled; these hairs have a peculiar appearance, the ends being frayed like a brush. The bald spots are pink in color. Later the skin shrinks, turns yellowish white, smooth, pliable to the touch. With a man the beard may become affected, with both men and women the eyebrows and eyelashes will fall out. With some persons, especially with children there is a variety of this disease called Area Celsi which is recog- nized by an extensive bald area between the temples, leaving a standing fringe of hair. This is very obstinate to treatment. Light cases of Alopecia Areata, may under treatment, recover in from two to six months; relapses are fre- quent. Some of the causes given for this condition are disorders of the trophic nerves, the nerves which regu- late the blood supply; also defective teeth, headache, cutting the wisdom teeth, ear trouble, etc. For all abnormal loss of hair, there is some cause. As soon as this loss is noticed it should immediately receive attention and the proper treatment, for it should be resorted to without delay. The treatment by the Violet Rays of the Quartz lamp has so far proved the most beneficial known, and when applied in time the results are most satisfactory, but one HAIR 257 must not expect to see a sudden restoration of hair; it requires, like many other things, patience and persist- ence ; but usually the sooner applied the quicker the re- generation will be. Dr. Nagelschmidt of Berlin reports the cure of 88% of cases of Alopecia Areata by the use of the Quartz lamp.